SÃO PAULO Vik Muniz

Transcription

SÃO PAULO Vik Muniz

#16
SÃO PAULO
Spring-Summer 2011 €4.50 SFR6.80 £ 3.00 $ 5.40
Vik Muniz
VISUAL ARTIST
SPECIAL EDITION ON SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT
INFORMATION Addresses
EDITORIAL Richard Girardot
3
THE
NESPRESSO
ECOSYSTEM
CITY GUIDE
All the addresses mentioned by Club Members are on pages 18 - 35.
SOFITEL Rua Sena Madureira, 1355.
Ibirapuera. Tel. : +55 (11) 3201-0800
PINACOTECA DO ESTADO Praça da Luz, 2.
Bom Retiro. Tel. : +55 (11) 3324-1000
TEATRO BRADESCO Rua Turiassu, 2100.
Barra Funda. Tel. : +55 (11) 3670-4100
GERO Rua Haddock Lobo, 1629.
Jardim Paulista. Tel. : +55 (11) 3064-0005
ZAHIL VINHOS Rua Manuel Guedes, 294.
Itaim Bibi. Tel. : +55 (11) 3071-2900
RODEIO Rua Haddock Lobo, 1498.
SÃO CRISTÓVÃO Rua Aspicuelta, 533.
Pinheiros. Tel. : +55 (11) 3097-9904
SHOPPING IGUATEMI Avenida Brigadeiro Faria
Lima, 2232. Pinheiros. Tel. : +55 (11) 3048-7300
BARBACOA Rua Dr Renato Paes Barros, 65.
Itaim Bibi. Tel. : +55 (11) 3168-5522
MASP Avenida Paulista, 1578.
Bela Vista. Tel. : +55 (11) 3289-7704
GALERIE DOS PÃES Rua Estados Unidos, 1645.
OSKLEN Rua Oscar Freire, 645.
DEAR CLUB MEMBERS,
OCA Parque do Ibirapuera. Moema.
INSALATA Alameda Campinas, 1474.
Tel. : +55 (11) 5572-0985
STYLE &
FASHION
PAGES
Find stockists of the brands featured
in the following sections:
Style, p. 44 - 47
BENEDIXT +55 (11) 3081-5606
www.benedixt.com.br
COLLETIVO DA MADRE +55 (11) 3061-9044
http://amorart.com.br/
CONCEITO FIRMA CASA +55 (11) 3068-0380
www.conceitofirmacasa.com.br
ESTUDIO MANUS +55 (11) 3032-0679
http://www.estudiomanus.com
IBRÜGGER
OBJECTS +55 (11) 2925-4895
The time has come to take you deeper into the world of Nespresso,
beyond
MANÍ Rua Joaquim Antunes, 210.
Pinheiros.
PATIO HIGIENÓPOLIS
those
everydaylegends
that are our capsules. It is a world thatwww.ibruggerobjects.com
is more about
Tel. : +55 (11) 3085-4148
Higienópolis,
618.
action than justAvenida
talk, marked
out by
a Consolação.
genuine commitment toMImeeting
real
CASA +55
(11) 3088-1238
Tel. : +55 (11) 3444-0112
people,
sharing
knowledge
and
working
together. This special
Sustainable
www.micasa.com.br
SPOT Alameda Ministro Rocha Azevedo, 72.
Development issue
illustratesBOTELHO
it perfectly.
FRANCISCA
Bela Vista. Tel. : +55 (11) 3283-0946
SUPERLIMÃO +55 (11) 3518-8919
Tel. : +55 (11) 3082-2424.
www.superlimao.com.br
MOCOTÓ Avenida Nossa Senhora
www.franciscabotelho.com
Loreto, of our
Thisdoedition
magazine takes you to Brazil. Our work there, particularly
1100. Vila Medeiros. Tel. : +55 (11) 2951-3056
in the Minas Gerais
region, aims to put rare coffees back on the map and
A FIGUEIRA RUBAIYAT Rua Haddock Lobo, 1738.
implement
AAA Tel.
Sustainable
Quality™ Program standards.
SKYE BAR, HÔTEL UNIQUE Avenida
Jardim Paulista.
: +55 (11) 3087-1399
Brigadeiro Nespresso
Here, like wherever we operate, we depend on local initiatives that work with
Luís Antônio, 4700. Jardim Paulista.
Tel. : +55 (11) 3055-4702. www.hotelunique.com.br
KINOSHITA
Rua Jacques
Félix, 405.to work with Nespresso to
coffee-growers. We
help those
that choose
A MULHER DO PADRE
Moema. Tel. : +55 (11) 3849-6940
improve the quality
of their coffee through training and technical
assistance
www.amulherdopadre.com
FASANO Rua Vitório Fasano, 88.
that
protects
the
land
and
water
required
for
coffee
farming
and
provides
LIVRARIA CULTURA Avenida Paulista, 2073.
CARRANO
www.carrano.com.br
them with a better
income.
however,
is more than just
a land
of
Consolação.
Tel. :Brazil,
+55 (11)
3170-4033
BOLINHA Avenida Cidade Jardim,
53.
outstanding
coffee. This huge country is developing with a keenCNS
awareness
of
www.cnscalcados.com.br
DUE
Pinheiros. Tel. : +55 (11) 3061-0988
CUOCHI
365.
its responsibilities
towards
itsAvenida
peopleJacuntinga,
and its environment.
Two individuals
Moema. Tel. : +55 (11) 5051-7551
COLCCI www.colcci.com.br
from our host city of São Paulo embody this attitude to perfection:
Vik Muniz,
LELLIS Rua Bela Cintra, 1849. Consolação.
the
visual
artist
who
uses
waste
as
his
raw
material,
and
Alex
Atala,
a great
EDEN
www.edenorganic.com.br
Tel. : +55 (11) 3064-2727
GALERIA OURO FINO Rua Augusta, 2690.
Jardim
Tel. : +55
3082-7860
chef who places
localPaulista.
producers
and(11)
their
produce at centre stage. They
ESTUDIO FRAME www.estudioframe.com.br
A BELA SINTRA Rua Bela Cintra,accepted
2325.
our invitation, and you can explore their world in this issue.
LIVRARIA DA VILA Rua Dr Mário Ferraz, 414.
ESTUDIO M www.blogdaemme.com/lojas
Itaim Bibi. Tel. : +55 (11) 3073-0513
GALERIA CHOQUE CULTURAL Beyond that, though, Nespresso’s commitment is based on Ecolaboration™,
HAVAIANAS www.havaianas.com.br
Rua João Moura, 997. Jardim Paulista.
MERCADO that
MUNICIPAL
Rua daoperating
Cantareira, 306.
a fundamental approach
has been
for seven years with
Tel. : +55 (11) 3061-4051
Sé.
Tel.
:
+55
(11)
3228-0673
the support of the Rainforest Alliance organisation. It focusesIMAGINARIUM
on three keywww.imaginarium.com.br
©2011 Ebel - Ref 1215607-1215769
Fashion, p. 48 - 55
areas: securingthe future of the precious resource that is coffeeIODICE
in theDENIM
face ofwww.iodicedenim.com.br
VENITE Rua Cons Rodrigues Alves, 1141.
financialMoema.
speculation,
strengthening
and expanding the used capsule
Tel. : +55
(11) 5579-5316
www.levi.com.br
collection system, and designing more environmentally-friendly LEVIS
machines,
like
CAMPUS USP Avenida Prof Luciano
LE MARAIS
Jerônimo
30. in this issue.
the new Pixie machine
that Rua
we are
prouddatoVeiga,
present
MARIO QUEIROZ www.marioqueiroz.com.br
AIZOMÊ Alameda Fernão Cardim, 39.
current
Gualberto. Butantã.
Itaim Bibi. Tel. : +55 (11) 3071-2873
MONICA LINZ www.monicalinz.com.br
We will
only
have succeeded when all our coffee is produced in line with
(Thanks to Daniel Santos, our driver
in São
Paulo.
Tel.: +55 (11) 7954-1614. E-mail:
[email protected])
Ecolaboration™
principles, when we have achieved our goal ofNEW
collecting
two
ERA http://www.neweracap.br
thirds of our capsules in two years time, and when research and development
PINGUIM www.pinguim.com.br
integrates the added-value of sustainability into all our operations. That is the
ambition of each Nespresso capsule that you hold betweenPITANGA
your fiwww.pitangaacessorios.com.br
ngers
intoon
your
machine.
Our commitment is starting to become a
All the addresses mentionedbefore
by Vikslotting
Munizitare
pages
36 - 41.
QUIKSILVER www.quiksilver.com/home
reality. And you are playing your part.
THE CITIZEN OF HONOUR
EBEL BRASILIA
LOVE STORY
EMILIANO Rua Oscar Freire, 384.
RICHARD GIRARDOT
Rua Araújo, 232. República.
Tel. : +55 (11) 3231-2505
CEO,
FREVO Rua Oscar Freire, 603. Nestlé Nespresso S.A.
GALERIA FORTES VILAÇA
Rua Fradique Coutinho, 1500. Pinheiros.
FASANO Rua Vitório Fasano, 88.
Tel. : +55 (11) 3032-7632
RAFAELLA CASSOLARI
www.rafaellacassolari.com.br
ROSA CHA www.rosacha.com.br
TAG AND JUICE
www.tagandjuice.com.br/blog
VOLV www.volv.com.br
CONTRIBUTORS
4
Our
team,
SANDRINE
GIACOBETTI
JOURNALIST Sandrine is
Editor-in-Chief of the French
magazine “Elle à Table” and has
worked on numerous cooking
and lifestyle publications.
Her coffee moment:
“I always take my time.” She
waits until she’s completely
relaxed and then makes herself
a foaming latte macchiato,
with a stick of cinnamon
instead of sugar.
NESPRESSO MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED
BY NESTLÉ NESPRESSSO S.A.
PUBLICATION DIRECTOR
Stéphane Detaille.
EXECUTIVE EDITOR Lise Peneveyre.
CIA DE FOTO
PHOTOGRAPHERS This São Paulo collective works in press
publications and advertising. Every one of their photos
gives a personal take on each image captured.
Their coffee moment: whenever they need it to stay
awake or celebrate!
ALEX SOLNIK
JOURNALIST He was born in
Drohobych (former USSR),
and now lives in São Paulo
where he writes for the
“Brasileiros” magazine. Find
him at www.semcortes.com or
on the web TV station “AllTV”.
His coffee moment: a morning
conversation over an Arpeggio
with his wife in their bedroom.
JEAN-CLAUDE AMIEL
PHOTOGRAPHER His culinary
photographs and reports are
featured in the magazine
“Elle à Table”, and other
French publications (“Elle”,
“Figaro Madame”, “Marie
Claire”, “Côté Ouest”, “Le
Nouvel Observateur”, etc.)
His coffee moment:
a white decaffeinated coffee
in the afternoon.
Concept/Production:
LAGARDÈRE CUSTOM PUBLISHING,
124, RUE DANTON,
92300 LEVALLOIS-PERRET, FRANCE.
TEL. +33 (0)1 41 34 93 63
PUBLISHER Évelyne Laquit.
EXECUTIVE MANAGER
Jérôme Pébereau.
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Sandrine Giacobetti.
ART DIRECTOR Xavier Bouré.
STUDIO MANAGER Matthieu Carré.
COORDINATOR
Nadine Male Hershkovitch.
EDITORIAL SECRETARY
Marie-Françoise Dufief.
COLLABORATORS FOR THIS EDITION
Francis Dolric. Stéphanie Durteste.
Céline Fakhouri. Christophe
Manon. Stéphane Méjanès.
Anna Penotti. Vinnie Pizzingrilli.
Rachel Pham. Élodie Rambaud.
Gabriela Rocopolo.
THANKS TO
Jeanne. Michel Philippot.
Mayra Rodrigues (Tayba Agency).
Daniel Santos. Marcelo Teles.
Pieca Wallerand.
TRANSLATION Datawords
www.datawords.com
Sacha Vatkovic.
ADVERTISING MANAGEMENT
Lagardère Publicité.
Tel. +33 (0)1 41 34 85 53
Sales Manager:
Noëlle Chaouloff
Advertising Manager:
Franck Stoeckel
Client Manager:
Marie-Christine Lanza.
PHOTOLITHO ASTO-PCS.
PRINTER Mohn media
Mohndruck GmbH.
MARIE LETEURÉ
AND JÉRÔME BILIC
STYLIST AND PHOTOGRAPHER
This food stylist and photographer
have worked together for years
for “Elle à Table” magazine.
Marie has also written a number
of lifestyle and cookery books.
Jérôme works with the Éditions
Solar publishing house.
Their coffee moment:
He takes a Fortissio Lungo in
the morning. “With a sprinkle
of sugar because it’s strong.”
She sips a Dulsão do Brasil
with its sweet notes of honey
at around 11 a.m.
This magazine is printed
on paper certified by:
OLIVIER GACHEN
PHOTOGRAPHER He has travelled
the world, and produced
portraits and reports for French
publications including “Elle”,
“Libération”, and “Le Monde”.
He also works with the same
passion in cinema.
His coffee moment:
a lungo for breakfast, a strong
espresso after lunch.
JULIEN BOURÉ
JOURNALIST Regular reporter
for the Travel and Portrait
pages of “Elle à Table”
magazine, and writer for the
“Fooding” restaurant guide.
His coffee moment:
throughout the day, in small
but regular doses!
© Copyright 2011 Nestlé
Nespresso S.A. All rights
reserved. Nespresso, the names
of the various Nespresso coffee
varieties and the Nespresso logos
mentioned in the Nespresso
Magazine are trademarks of
Société des Produits Nestlé S.A.
that may be registered in certain
countries.
CONTENTS Spring-Summer 2011
P. 18
P. 36
Pullman and Nespresso:
the two best ways to start your day.
P. 44
P. 48
P. 42
P. 60
3
EDITORIAL
www.pullmanhotels.com
AACHENtABIDJANtBANGKOKtBARCELONAtBEIJINGtBERLINtBORDEAUXtBUCHARESTtCAIRNStCANNES MANDELIEUtCHANGWONtCOLOGNEtDAKARtDONGGUANtDORTMUND
DRESDENtDUBAItGUANGZHOUtKHONKAENtMADRIDtMARSEILLEtMONTPELLIERtPARIStPUTRAJAYAtROSARIOtSANYAtSHANGHAItSTUTTGARTtSYDNEYtTIMIAMAtTOULOUSEtVERSAILLES
Jean-Claude Amiel - CIA de Foto - Olivier Gachen - Jérôme Bilic.
New attitude hotels for international travelers.
11
12
14
16
ADDICT
56
DESIGN
COLUMN
60
68
CITIZEN OF HONOUR
VIK MUNIZ
CYBER CAFÉ
NEXT GENERATION
CHEF ALEX ATALA
GRANDS CRUS
BRAZILIAN SELECTION
74
GOURMET COFFEE
COFFEE COLOURS
CITY GUIDE
SÃO PAULO
CONFIDENTIAL,
WITH SIX NESPRESSO
CLUB MEMBERS
36
CULT OBJECT
OUT AND ABOUT
PEOPLE,
STYLE, TASTE
18
42
I AM NOT LED, I LEAD
44 DESIGN RECYCLED CHIC
48 FASHION FLOWER POWER
NOW
P. 74
P. 68
80
THE EXPERTS
TOP OF THE CROP
84
INTERVIEW
TOM ZÉ
86 HISTORY THE CAFE COM
LEITE REPUBLIC
NESPRESSO & YOU
88
92
GASTRONOMY
COOK IT RAW
THREE DAYS
GEORGE CLOONEY
96 COMMITMENT ALL THERE IS TO
KNOW ABOUT ECOLABORATION TM
98 PARTNER EDUARDO TREVISAN,
A CONSCIENTIOUS SUPPORTER
DISCOVERY
WITH
100
INNOVATION
NEW ENERGY SOURCES
102 NEWS IN BRIEF
104 THE SELECTION THE MACHINES
& LES COLLECTIONS
106 ADDRESSES OF OUR BOUTIQUES
INFORMATION ADRESSES AND
SÃO PAULO STREET MAP
7
www.annefontaine.com
NOW Out and about
Naturellement beau...
Naturellement Sun Abris
IN A JUNGLE CLEARING IN THE MINAS
GERAIS REGION, FORTY MILES FROM ITS
CAPITAL BELO HORIZONTE,Bernardo Paz,
“Magic Square no. 5”, by Hélio Oiticica, 1978.
INHOTIM
André Mantelli.
ART AT THE HEART
OF THE JUNGLE
ONE HOUR FROM SÃO PAULO AND
RIO DE JANEIRO, TAKE AN OUTDOOR TOUR
OF THE LARGEST CONTEMPORARY
ART COLLECTION IN SOUTH AMERICA.
Production Gabriela Rocopolo
a mining magnate and art collector, had
the crazy idea of building a socially
responsible contemporary art centre on
his estate. Nearly 500 works by about a
hundred artists from around the world
stand proud or are tucked away in
his 740-acre park, which includes a
Garden of Eden designed by Brazilian
landscape architect Roberto Burle Marx,
who created the UNESCO park in Paris.
Delightful palm trees recognised as the
most beautiful specimens
in the world and 4,700
species of cultivated flora
explain why it also hosts
a botanical school and a
research centre. A stroll
along the shore of one of
the five lakes might bring
you face to face with a
provocative sculpture by
Paul McCarthy, a more denuded creation by
Matthew Barney or a colourful installation by Hélio
Oiticica. The most fragile works are sheltered from
the weather in one of seven pavilions scattered
among the mountain and forest. Here, there is a
permanent link between art and nature, as well as an
unbreakable bond with the poorest members of the
local community who are participating in the
“Inclusion and Citizenship” project. Welcome to an
outdoor museum with an open heart. ■
> www.inhotim.org.br
11
NOW Addict
A BAG CALLED WANDA
It all started with a love
story. Isabelle Puech and
Benoît Jamin met during
their studies.
In 1990, they founded
their accessories label,
Jamin Puech. They make
unique, traditionally
crafted bags from natural
materials, all finished by
hand. This shoulder day
bag is made from strips
of twisted cotton, beads
and sequins and is part of
this year’s spring/summer
collection.
> www.jamin-puech.com
FOLLOWING ON FROM THE SUCCESS OF HER WHITE ORGANIC COTTON SHIRTS AND THE
LAUNCH OF A RANGE OF
NATURAL BEAUTY PRODUCTS, ANNE FONTAINE, WHO IS ORIGINA
LLY FROM RIO DE JANEIRO, IS CREATING A CHARITY
FOR THE AMAZON REGION. BUY A REUSABLE BAG IN ONE OF HER
SHOPS AND HELP FINANCE TREE-PLANTING AND THE
CONSTRUCTION OF A NURSERY IN THE MATA ATLANTICA FOREST
.
> www.annefontaine.com
SELF-PORTRAIT
The Israeli pavilion at the 54th Venice Biennale
contemporary art exhibition is set to cause
quite a stir. Sigalit Landau, the video artist born
in Jerusalem and selected to represent her
country at the event, plays with stigmata and
rituals in the films in which she performs. A
good example is “DeadSee”, where she is shown
surrounded by 500 watermelons floating in an
intricate spiral: she lets herself be carried by the
swirling mass before the image sinks away into
the salt-saturated waters of the Dead Sea. It is a
troubling metaphor of the world’s cruelty.
> Venice Biennale, from 4th June to
27th November. www.labiennale.org.it
All rights reserved – Sigalit Landau, DeadSee (2008).
12
14
NOW Design
CARNIVORES
An arts and nature centre reserved for artists
is nestled on the banks of the river Loire in
France. This year, it is staging photography
exhibitions under its huge cedars. Helene
Schmitz reveals the hidden side of carnivorous
plants with photos taken in her studio,
offering a fresh perspective that is a far cry
from the usual allegorical images we see.
> Domaine de Chaumont-sur-Loire, France,
8th April to 3rd November.
www.domaine-chaumont.fr
MONOGRAPH
> “Hella Jongerius: Misfit”, 308 pages, 350 photos, Phaidon.
www.phaidon.com
“Venus Flytrap”, Helene Schmitz
OVER IPANEMA BEACH, THE CHIC AREA IN SOUTHERN
THE H.STERN JEWELLER’S BUILDING, WHICH STANDS
TIONS TO VISITORS. A RARE SHOW OF PRECIOUS
COLLEC
AND
HOPS
RIO DE JANEIRO, IS OPENING ITS WORKS
SEEN ON THE LIKES OF JENNIFER LOPEZ, EVA
AND SEMI-PRECIOUS GEMS THAT ARE USUALLY MOST OFTEN
AS GLAMOROUS WITH THIS RING HOLLOWED
JUST
E
B
.
ETT
LANCH
B
ATE
C
OR
OLIE
J
LONGORIA, ANGELINA
> www.hstern.net
OUT OF GOLD.
CAPSULE COLLECTION
The Czech artist and contemporary goldsmith Nolia Shatki
recycled the colourful casings that are our Nespresso Grand Cru
capsules to make this necklace. She entitled this limited edition
“Throw Away Gold”, sculpting the aluminium from the capsules
just like precious gold. This avant-garde piece with a tribal look is
part of a collection of unique pieces on display exclusively at the
Louise Smit gallery in Amsterdam. > www.louisesmit.nl
All rights reserved – Venus Flytrap, Carnivores, Helene Schmitz, Courtesy of Galerie Maria Lund
Fabrics, crockery and furniture… Hella Jongerius, a member
of the Droog Design collective, combines technology and
craftsmanship. This composition of 300 vases exhibited
at the Boijmans Van Beuningent Museum in Rotterdam
features in an incredible book published by Phaidon.
Sanctuary Pure form stirs the senses –
USM harmonizes with your individual lifestyle.
Order our new «living essentials» brochure at www.usm.com/living/en
USM U. Schärer Söhne AG, CH-3110 Münsingen, Phone +41 31720 72 72
Showrooms: Berlin, Bern, Düsseldorf, Hamburg, New York, Paris, Tokyo
[email protected], www.usm.com
16
COLUMN The word mill
More and more of our Brazilian coffees have
every good reason to smile.
THE YACHT WITH A THOUSAND LIVES
YACHTSMAN MIKE HORN’S SAILBOAT “PANGAEA” AND THE CAPSULES
THAT ENCLOSE YOUR GRANDS CRUS HAVE SOMETHING IN COMMON:
THEIR ALUMINIUM HAS AN INFINITE LIFESPAN.
Text Francis Dolric Illustration Mac Nooland
IF ONLY CATS WERE MADE OF ALUMINIUM, THEIR LEGENDARY SEVEN LIVES
WOULD PALE IN COMPARISON TO
THE ETERNAL EXISTENCE THEY COULD
ENJOY. They could be recycled any
Is it mere chance
that Mike Horn’s
Pangaea was
made in Brazil,
a coffee-lover’s
paradise?
number of times, exactly like your
Nespresso capsules or the hull of the
Pangaea yacht owned by explorer
Mike Horn. These objects can be
reborn in one form or another ad
infinitum, because aluminium can be
endlessly recycled without any loss of
quality. And it doesn’t cost the earth,
either: recycling uses just 5% of the
energy required to extract the metal from its various ores.
Given this shared perspective, Mike Horn and Nespresso seem to
have been made for one another. Nespresso has been helping the
adventurer complete his incredible programme of educational and
environmental voyages. The Pangaea’s hull is not made from used
capsules, but it could well have been...
In other news, Nespresso has extended
its capsule collection and recycling
programme: by late 2011, twenty-three
countries will be involved, including
Brazil, where much of world’s best coffee
is grown and where this issue of the
“Nespresso Magazine” transports its
readers. São Paulo, its largest city, was
also the birthplace of the Pangaea.
One day, many more countries will
recycle their capsules. Imagine whole
flotillas of gleaming yachts cutting through
the waves, defending the environment like
the Pangaea, or simply sailing where the wind takes them.
And when, weary of its travels, an aluminium hull completes its final
journey, it might go on to house your Grand Cru, before returning to
the open seas yet again, boosted by a new lease of life… In any
case, one thing is for sure: the future always starts with a dream. ■
Gourmet Brazilian coffees are a precious asset to be cherished.
To help guarantee this exceptional quality long-term, in 2003
we launched the Nespresso AAA Sustainable Quality Program
in collaboration with the Rainforest Alliance. This unique
program offers triple benets: it increases the production of
high quality coffee, improves farm productivity and preserves
the environment. The Brazilian coffee farmers who join the AAA
program can grow and process their coffee ensuring the best
quality of the beans and a better quality of life for the people who
farm them. They receive special training together with technical
and nancial support. In Brazil, these services are provided by
Imaora, a Brazilian NGO associated with the Rainforest Alliance.
For more information on the Nespresso Ecolaboration program,
visit www.nespresso.com/ecolaboration
SÃO
PAULO
CONFIDENTIAL
18
CITY Guide
THE LARGEST AGGLOMERATION IN BRAZIL, AND POSSIBLY THE WORLD, IS
A CITY WHERE THE SKY’S THE LIMIT. PEOPLE TRAVEL BY HELICOPTER HERE:
ITS STREETS ARE AIR CORRIDORS AND ITS TERRACES HELIPADS, SO IT CAN
BE DIFFICULT FOR VISITORS TO FIND THEIR WAY AROUND WITHOUT A GOOD
FLIGHT PLAN. SIX NESPRESSO CLUB MEMBERS LIVING IN SÃO PAULO GIVE
YOU A FEW IDEAS TO LAUNCH YOU IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION.
Production Sandrine Giacobetti Text Alex Solnik and Julien Bouré Photography Jean-Claude Amiel
HIGH-FLYING HOTEL The cream of society arrive at the Sofitel
Ibirapuera via the rooftop terrace.
Find all the addresses referred to in this City Guide on our street map at the back of the Magazine.
19
20
21
WORLD
VILLAGE
Seen from the sky, São Paulo appears
to be a large village. On the ground,
however, it is like an entire world –
a welcoming land and a cultural
melting pot. The kind of place where
every crossroads offers a tantalising
range of choices. Here, six Nespresso
Club Members provide a different angle
on the city, so you should find one that
appeals. These São Paulo residents
inhabit six different worlds and six
social universes. There are really only
two things that unite them: they live in
the same city and they love great coffee.
You don’t need to go
far to find somewhere
to unwind in São Paulo.
22
23
RAJA HANNA
Chemical Engineer
and Businessman,
A Member since 2007
His father, Nicola Hanna,
started importing cosmetics by
Anna Pegova, the famous 1940s
Russian cosmetologist, from France
over thirty years ago. Today,
Raja Hanna, a chemical engineer
by training, is responsible for
product management and
supervision in this family
business, where his two sisters
also work. “We provide creams
and lotions with specific effects,
such as skin regeneration,”
explains Raja. Since he bought
a Nespresso machine for his
family, they have all become fans.
Raja himself has adopted a
particular ritual: “Twice a day,
at 10 a.m. and 3 p.m. sharp,
I make myself a RISTRETTO
or ARPEGGIO and enjoy it out
on the veranda.”
ZAHIL VINHOS �
This expert company is a big
importer of wines and
guarantees quality.
SÃO CRISTÓVÃO �
This bar is named after
a Rio football team, but you
don’t have to be a fan to get in.
BARBACOA �
São Paulo
is the
Brazilian
capital of
musicals.
This chain is so popular with
Japanese residents in São Paulo that
it has opened two restaurants in Japan.
RAJA AND HIS WIFE ARE NOT REALLY THE
GOING-OUT KIND. He’s a “Brazilian born in
BRADESCO THEATRE �
São Paulo has the big theatres to put on big Broadway musicals. The Bradesco
Theatre has been a firm favourite of show-going audiences since 2010, despite
being the most recent. It offers great acoustics, comfortable seats and much more…
Lebanon”, who prefers to have the family
round for a good bottle of red wine that he
orders from ZAHIL VIN HOS, like his father
mits that he’s not the biggest party animal.
always did before him. If he does go out with
He did once go to the SÃO CRISTOVÃO bar
his wife, it’s usually to enjoy one of the many
shows in São Paulo, which Raja says is
in the heart of the bustling Vila Madalena,
“the Brazilian capital of musicals.” It is
but only by accident, or almost. Someone
dominated by two powerhouses, the Abril and
invited him one Saturday afternoon and
even then he only ordered bean soup with
BRADESCO theatres, which enthral theatregrilled sausage.
•••
goers with shows that never fail to please.
After the show, they head to the BARBACOA
churrasqueira (steak house) to unwind and indulge in the
DON’T MISS...
culinary pleasure of top-quality all-you-can-eat grilled meat,
Galeria dos Pães � , where there’s an
which the waiters continue to serve until you make it absoopen-all-hours food shop and bakery.
Perfect for a post-show snack.
lutely clear you cannot manage another bite! Raja gladly ad-
24
25
OCA This Oscar Niemeyer building
in Ibirapuera Park only opens
for temporary exhibitions.
ANA PAULA NAFFAH PEREZ
Partner in an architectural practice,
A Member since 2009
Ana Paula has no regrets about deciding
to go into hospital architecture eighteen
years ago. “I should have been a doctor,”
she jokes. The only downside is that she
doesn’t have enough time to pursue her
own personal projects. She’s not giving
up her drawing board any time soon,
though. “Sometimes clients ask me for
blue walls, which I don’t think is a good
idea. It’s a depressing colour. We tend to
use light green in our hospital projects.”
She bought her first Nespresso machine
in 2009, a pretty little yellow model.
Then she bought another. “I fell
in love with Nespresso’s coffees and
their simplicity.” The hardest thing
to organise at work is coffee breaks.
“Now, everyone has their favourite
capsule. And even better, the practice
is based just a few yards from
the Nespresso Boutique in Rua Padre
João Manoel. What more could
I possibly want?”
MANÍ Enjoy the fantastic and
spontaneous creations of
head chef Helena Rizzo.
SPOT This restaurant with bay
windows on Avenida Paulista
draws a trendy clientele.
MOCOTÓ Food-lovers come from afar to
savour the irresistible North-East
Brazilian specialities served here.
Ibirapuera Park
is São Paulo’s
answer to
Central Park.
WHY IS ANA PAULA SO ATTACHED TO IBIRAPUERA PARK, São Paulo’s answer to Cen-
SKYE BAR tral Park? Even she can’t explain it. She has
been going there since she was a small child.
She is so enchanted by this garden designed
by architect Oscar Niemeyer that she now
lives right next to it. “I love Ibirapuera and the
Brazilian food, MANI, is just as enchanting
and ideal for those seeking a more
OCA is one of the most beautiful exhibition
refined gastronomical treat. Ana Paula
halls in the world,” she says, brimming with
goes to SPOT, for a lighter, brighter
pride for the huge concrete yurt constructed
in a clearing in the park. She also recomatmosphere and to the SKYE BAR for its
mends a visit to the Japanese Liberdade
breathtaking view from the roof of the
quarter, where the picturesque atmosphere is
UNIQUE HOTEL. Just watch out for that
much more interesting than the architecture.
queasy feeling as you look down from the
On her days off, she heads out of the city centop of this huge gondola!
•••
tre to the other side of the Tietê River
to the brilliant MOCOTÓ restaurant, where foodies from
São Paulo’s chic areas are happy to wait several hours for a
table at this restaurant that showcases the simple cooking
of North-East Brazil. Another establishment specialising in
DON’T MISS...
The food shops in the Japanese
Liberdade quarter, which sell fresh
imported produce.
This bar and swimming pool
is located on the roof of the
wildly curved Unique Hotel.
26
27
FASANO Have a drink at the bar, before heading
to the hotel restaurant where 80 lucky
diners get treated like royalty.
SERVO DE OLIVEIRA,
BOLINHA Feijoada is traditionally served on
Wednesdays and Saturdays, but
here you can eat it every day.
Entrepreneur,
A Member since 2010
The more professional stability
Servo gained, the more hair
he lost. “So I decided to shave
it all off once and for all,”
he says. His bald head has
even had him mistaken for
André Agassi in a Los Angeles
chemist’s! Ten years ago,
he founded a metallurgy
company in São Paulo with
three friends, which is doing
well. His other passions
include motorbikes and
good coffee – a penchant he
shares with his eldest son.
His daughters bought him
his first Nespresso machine
for Father’s Day.
“They know I love coffee.
It’s great just to be able to
plug in the machine, listen
to its gentle whir and sip an
ARPEGGIO or another one
of the strong Grands Crus!
I never say no to one of
those coffees!”
LELLIS Essential Italian cooking with
a selection of the best wines. A
great atmosphere is guaranteed!
If you’re looking
for a hushed
atmosphere for
a business lunch,
the Fasano Hotel
is the place to go.
IN A CITY WITH OVER TEN THOUSAND RESTAURANTS, YOU DON’T NEED AN EXCUSE TO EAT OUT.
DON’T MISS...
Another Brazilian
dish, Pao de
Queijo, a small
cheese bun
that you can
buy on Rua
Haddock Lobo.
If you long to eat decent-sized portions without
expanding your waistline, head for BOLINHA,
where feijoada, a traditional bean stew that has
been a staple of this nation for as long as anyone can remember, has been transformed into a
lighter version. If you’re looking for a hushed atto stimulate your intellect rather than
mosphere for a business lunch, Servo heartily
your taste buds, head over to the
recommends the FASANO HOTEL restaurant,
CHOQUE CULTURAL gallery, which exhibits work by street artists that is bursting
which has received awards for its Italian menu
with life. Food for the soul.
and Isay Weinfeld decor. Or, if you’d rather sam•••
ple food from the huge Japanese community in
São Paulo, don’t miss AIZOMÊ, whose tiny restaurant has become an international sanctuary for new Japanese
cuisine thanks to its head chef Shin Koike. Perhaps you’re looking
for somewhere to enjoy the sacrosanct Sunday lunch? Don’t think
twice, head to LELLIS, where the veal fillet topped with grilled
parmesan is enough to feed three hungry bellies! If you’re looking
A BELA SINTRA For its chef Ilda Vinagre
and the cod prepared in
fifteen different ways.
GALERIA CHOQUE CULTURAL Works by street artists are turned
into paintings, which are then
sold all over the world.
AIZOMÊ Shin Koike reinvents
traditional dishes in a setting
straight out of a Japanese film.
28
29
ANA MARIA SIQUEIRA,
A Member since 2007
Most people in her shoes
would sit back, relax and
enjoy their children’s success.
Her eldest son produces
advertising films. One of her
daughters runs a fashion
shop, and the other is studying
architecture. Two years ago,
however, Ana Maria went
back to University. She earned
a degree in philosophy,
considers the works of Hannah
Arendt or Edmund Husserl as
essential reading and is also
taking an art-history course.
She relishes life and also loves
shopping. Between lessons,
she sometimes drops into the
Nespresso Boutique in
Iguatemi, near the University.
“I’ve always wanted to find
a decaf coffee that tastes good,
and their DECAFFEINATO
INTENSO is fantastic.
Now I also buy VOLLUTO
capsules. It’s not too strong,
or too weak, it’s just right…”
Ana Maria has found just
the right balance.
GERO A trendy place designed
by the Fasano family, who
excel in the art of service.
SHOPPING IGUATEMI The city’s first shopping
centre and still
the most pleasant.
ANA MARIA IS A CITY-LOVER. SO MUCH SO THAT
IF SHE SAYS SHE’S JUST BEEN OUT IN THE COUNTRYSIDE, SHE MEANS SHE’S BEEN FOR A STROLL ON THE
UNIVERSITY CAMPUS located a few miles from the
USP CAMPUS Open to all who want to come
and study, exercise or simply
get away from it all.
PINACOTECA DO ESTADO Both the architecture of
the building and the exhibitions
it hosts are remarkable.
geographical centre of São Paulo. Listening to her,
you’d think that there’s no need to go anywhere
else for a bit of fresh air. São Paulo has trees
enough, “especially if you compare its parks to the
measly green spaces in European cities.” She also
feels it has a lot to offer in terms of culture. There
are two must-visit institutions: the PINACOTECA
with its excellent temporary exhibitions and the
MASP – Museum of Modern Art – which, despite
its name, contains over five hundred years’ worth
of visual arts in the largest collection in South
America. Featuring a style that reflects local tradi-
RODEIO Its meat is appreciated by
celebrities, including former
president Juscelino Kubitschek.
MASP This museum was designed by
Lina Bo Bardi and is a major
cultural centre in Brazil.
Two essential
institutions:
the Pinacoteca
and the MASP.
tions, the RODEIO restaurant was one of
the first major restaurants in the city. Its
quaint atmosphere is delightful, but
younger visitors might find it a bit outdated. They will not fail to be impressed,
though, by the highly sophisticated atmosphere of GERO. When she’s not “out
in the countryside”, Ana Maria loves going
for a wander “around town” in IGUATEMI’s covered arcades where her favourite Nespresso Boutique is located. If São Paulo vies with Tokyo and Singapore for the
title of the world’s best shopping centre, it’s partly because of Iguatemi shopping centre, which was the first of
its kind in Brazil.
•••
DON’T MISS...
Granado,
a historical
Brazilian
cosmetics brand
founded in 1870.
Their leading
product is
glycerine soap.
30
31
OSKLEN This chain with a
Scandinavian touch is a
showcase for chic sportswear.
ILANA ET IVO MESEL,
INSALATA Systems Analyst and Economist,
Members since 2009
A caipirinha will brighten
up your afternoon if you’re
out and about in the city.
When Ilana was a little girl, she
would open the window, stick
out her head and talk to the
moon before going to bed.
She dreamed of becoming an
astronaut and walking on
it one day. Then she wanted
to become a physicist, like her
father, but that didn’t work out.
While in Recife, she found her
vocation, and then met her
husband when she returned
to São Paulo. “We got chatting
when we found out his
grandmother had the same
name as me in Hebrew.”
Ilana develops e-commerce
solutions for the Web.
“I was lucky to find a job that
I enjoy and makes me happy.”
She discovered Nespresso
at work and has been unable
to do without her machine ever
since. “It was love at first sight
when my brother bought
it for me.” She adds,
“After dinner at a restaurant,
if they ask me if I want a coffee,
I say ‘No thanks, I’ll have
a Nespresso when I get home!’”
PATIO HIGIENÓPOLIS Under
the cloudless
sky of the
Higienópolis
shopping
arcade.
The Nespresso Boutique is
tucked away in this exclusive
shopping arcade.
DON’T MISS...
Francisca Botelho
jewellery ,
by appointment only.
Her superb creations
are also available from
Barneys in the USA.
I drop Ivo at the Cultura bookshop and go and do
some window shopping with my daughter,” says
Ilana, who would be happy to spend the day under
the cloudless sky of a shopping arcade. Her favourite is HIGIENÓPOLIS, where she goes regularly
to stock up on Nespresso Grands Crus. Ivo describes himself as a Nespressomaniac. He spends
so much time in the Boutique that a customer once
took him for a sales assistant! Rather than revealing
the truth, he had a bit of fun talking up a coffee
machine that he knew like the back of his hand –
“and guess what! I sold it!” Ilana could easily model
for OSKLEN, as the elegant sportswear brand suits
her so well. Ivo wants to show his wife that he is
sticking to his diet, so when she’s listening he rec-
ommends the INSALATA vegetable
menu, whose salads will make you almost forget that you are in the capital of
meat. He talks passionately about the
minimalist artwork in the Japanese restaurant KINOSHITA, whose famous chef
Murakami is a good enough singer to entertain a restaurant
full of customers with his tenor voice. When Ilana turns
away, though, he whispers the name of a restaurant straight
out of the bygone days of our carnivorous past, where even
the most rapacious meat-eaters should find satisfaction:
A FIGUEIRA RUBAIYAT.
•••
The misuse of alcohol is dangerous for
your health. Please drink responsibly.
“IN SÃO PAULO, SHOPPING CENTRES HAVE REPLACED THE FORMER BUSTLE OF TOWN CENTRES.
A FIGUEIRA RUBAIYAT Delicious meat dishes for
gourmet palates in the shade
of a fig tree.
KINOSHITA Head chef Murakami and his
delicious cooking pay tribute to the
restaurant’s founder Kinoshita.
LIVRARIA CULTURA One of the city’s leading attractions,
featuring a café-bar, theatre, reading
rooms and over three million books.
32
33
JOSÉ MANOEL
FRAZÃO MENDES
DUE CUOCHI ��
The simple and inspired
cooking helps you forget the
queue outside at lunchime.
Lawyer,
A Member since 2010
It took José Manoel Frazão
Mendes years to find a good
coffee after leaving his native
city São Luís do Maranhão.
He studied in Rio de Janeiro,
where there was nothing
but filter coffee and once he
started working as a lawyer,
he had to content himself with
bitter espressos. It is only when
he moved to São Paulo after
being promoted to a new role
in his firm that he found the
coffee he had so longed for.
Friends had brought him back
a Nespresso machine and
a few capsules from abroad.
“When the brand arrived
in Brazil, I became
a devoted Nespresso drinker.
I have machines all over the
place (at home, at the office,
etc.), so that I can serve my
friends and enjoy my
INDRYA from India.
Once you’ve tasted
an excellent coffee,
there’s no going back!”
GALERIA OURO FINO ��
This paradise for electro
music fans also attracts
fashion lovers.
LIVRARIA DA VILA ��
“THIS CITY IS A MELTING POT,” SAYS JOSÉ
MANOEL. AND HE’S NOT WRONG. For the resident of
a city that has over 17 million inhabitants, to say that
it is cosmopolitan seems as unsurprising as a Londoner saying that his city is the capital of the United
Kingdom. And yet, it is the perfect way to describe
this megalopolis, beautifully demonstrated by the
Neapolitan pizzas prepared against the Portuguese
backdrop of VENITE. Another example is the food
served at DUE CUOCHI, which offers a mixture of
Italian and French recipes, such as its unrivalled
camembert ravioli served with figs and butter
sauce. Or there’s the popular bohemian Parisian
atmosphere of the LE MARAIS bistro far from the
banks of the Seine, whose sandwiches and onion
soup bring the moneyed clientele of Jardins down
to earth. Everything melts and blends together
here. Maybe it’s because of São Paulo’s glaring
DON’T MISS...
Mercado Municipal �� ,
on Rua da Cantareira for
the mortadella sandwiches
with American-style
proportions prepared
by the Italian Mezanino.
A bookshop with a moving
façade and bookshelves.
Concept by Isay Weinfeld.
VENITE This is no luxury venue, but the
pizzaiolo is a master of the art,
recommended by chef Alex Atala.
LE MARAIS Serves veal blanquette,
coq au vin and cassoulet
like any good Parisian bistro.
Galeria Ouro
Fino is an
avant-garde and
contemporary
shopping
arcade.
heat? GALERIA OURO FINO, the avantgarde contemporary shopping arcade,
provides a good synopsis of this city,
which is as hard to pin down as liquid
gold. The LIVRARIA DA VILA is another typical example:
this bookshop and jewel of shelving technology features
a façade made of removable shelves and three floors that
use as many space-saving techniques as possible to offer customers a mini Alexandrian library. ■
Find all the addresses referred to above on our map at the back of the Magazine.
34
35
MAKE A COFFEE DATE AT THE NESPRESSO
BOUTIQUE ON RUA ÓSCAR FREIRE
A NESPRESSO
IN SÃO PAULO
Here’s our list of favourite venues that serve
Nespresso Grands Crus in São Paulo.
CANTALOUP
A restaurant that brings fusion food to the fore,
as illustrated by its sweet-potato mash with truffles.
www.cantaloup.com.br
Rua Manoel Guedes, 474 – Itaim Bibi. Tel.: +55 (11) 3078-3445
WE MET MUM-TO-BE CLAUDIA LEITE,
NATIONAL NESPRESSO BOUTIQUE
MANAGER IN BRAZIL AT THE
BRAND’S HISTORIC BOUTIQUE,
THE FIRST IN LATIN AMERICA.
DALVA E DITO
Head chef Alex Atala, who was behind the restaurant
“D.O.M.”, offers an amusing take on North-East Brazilian
cuisine, with dishes like shrimp clown pie and television chicken.
www.domrestaurante.com.br
Rua Barão de Capanema, 549 – Jardins. Tel.: +55 (11) 3088-0761
www.dalvaedito.com.br
Rua Padre João Manoel, 1115 – Jardim Paulista. Tel.: +55 (11) 3068-4444
FOGO DE CHÃO
CLAUDIA LEITE, WHY NESPRESSO?
CLAUDIA LEITE : It’s no accident. I come from Minas Gerais and
simply love coffee. It’s part of my life. I have been working for
Nespresso for the last few years, but it feels as if I had been
preparing to manage its Boutiques in Brazil since I was a child.
I used to be a coffee-taster and I am really passionate
about coffee.
TELL US A BIT ABOUT YOUR BACKGROUND…
C. L.: I come from a big coffee-growing town. My family has
always been involved with coffee, but we were not particularly
well off. I am familiar with the whole production process,
from seedlings to ground coffee.
HOW MANY BOUTIQUES DO YOU MANAGE?
C. L.: There are ten in all. This one was the first Boutique in
Latin America. It’s a beautifully designed and attractive
Boutique-Bar, one of a kind. It has a bar and a breakfast area
for hosting special events.
WHAT KIND OF CUSTOMERS BUY NESPRESSO IN BRAZIL?
C. L.: Here, Nespresso is seen as a fairly young brand with
specific values that customers identify with. Members form
a personal attachment and emotional connection with the
brand, and become ambassadors for our products.
DO MANY BRAZILIAN PLANTATIONS SUPPLY NESPRESSO
WITH COFFEE?
C. L.: Brazil, and especially the Minas Gerais region, is one of
Nespresso’s main suppliers.
WHAT’S ON THE HORIZON?
C. L.: Our customers come from all over Brazil, so we’re going
to launch new Boutiques. Our most recent one has just opened
in São Paulo. ■
Gauchos, or Brazilian cowboys, used to grill their meat on an
open fire. That’s the feel of this place, which has six restaurants
in Brazil and sixteen in the USA.
www.fogodechao.com.br
Avenida Santo Amaro, 6824 – Santo Amaro. Tel.: +55 (11) 5524-0500
LEONA PIZZA BAR
A restaurant that showcases pizza in traditional and more
adventurous formats. You can also order champagne shrimps
or stuffed meatloaf.
Rua Constantino de Souza, 582 – Campo Belo. Tel.: +55 (11) 5096-3000
MERCEARIA DO FRANCÊS
A French-style bistro. Unmissable specialities include the goat’s
cheese ratatouille, the home-made cassoulet and its mussels
served with chips.
www.merceariadofrances.com.br
Rua Itacolomi, 636 – Higienópolis. Tel.: +55 (11) 3214-1295
TERRAÇO ITÁLIA
A breathtaking view of the city with surprises concocted
by head chef Samuel Oliva, such as pheasant tortellini
or rabbit in balsamic vinegar.
www.terracoitalia.com.br
Avenida Ipiranga, 344 – Tel.: +55 (11) 2189-2929
TEMPLO DA CARNE
Owner, head chef and head waiter Marcos Bassi loves
to serve his guests in person. And they love his meaty
creations, such as bombom.
www.templodacarne.com.br
Rua Treze de Maio 650 – Bexiga. Tel.: +55 (11) 3288-7045
LA TAMBOUILLE
French-Italian cooking overseen by head chef Giancarlo Bolla.
Don’t miss the scallops gratin with seafood.
www.tambouille.com.br
Avenida Nove de Julho, 5925 – Itaim Bibi. Tel.: +55 (11) 3079-6277
MERCEARIA DO CONDE
A restaurant with an eclectic menu that includes pizzas, soups,
spicy chicken dishes served with couscous and salmon with shiitake.
www.merciadoconde.com.br
Rua Joaquim Antunes, 217 – Jardim Paulistano. Tel.: +55 (11) 3081-7204
CITIZEN of honour
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37
FRESH PERSPECTIVE
“An artist recreates the world
in his own way. How can he do
anything else given the primitive
nature of the human eye? Its only
merit is its ability to present you
with a different point of view.”
VIK
MUNIZ
VIEWS OF THE AGGLOMERATION
VIK MUNIZ IS A “CRITICAL MASS ARTIST” WHO OFFERS US NEW
INTERPRETATIONS OF ASSEMBLED ENTITIES. ACCORDING TO HIM,
COMPOSITE ELEMENTS ARE NOT DEPENDENT ON THE WHOLE: THEY MOVE,
MUTATE AND ARE RECYCLED. THE SAME CAN BE SAID OF SÃO PAULO,
WHICH CAN ONLY EVER BE TRULY UNDERSTOOD WHEN SET AGAINST
RIO DE JANEIRO, ITS CONTRASTING COUNTERPART.
Text Julien Bouré Photography Jean-Claude Amiel
38
39
VIK MUNIZ IN 5 DATES
1961 Born in São Paulo.
1990 Published his first mature
work, “The Best of Life”,
a series of famous photos redrawn from memory.
1997 Started drawing portraits using chocolate.
2006 Worked on creating art from recycled waste.
2010 His film “Waste Land” is released and nominated
for Best Documentary Feature at the 83rd Academy
Awards.
ASPECTS OF VIK MUNIZ’S WORK BEAR SOME RESEMBLANCE TO THE TECHNIQUES OF THE IMPRESSIONISTS. CLAUDE
MONET, PAUL CEZANNE AND CAMILLE PISSARRO USED DELICATE TOUCHES OF COLOUR TO COMPOSE WORKS WITH
INDISTINCT EDGES, GIVING HAZY IMPRESSIONS OF A REALITY
THAT IS ACTUALLY MORE REAL THAN THE REALITY WE KNOW.
VIK IS A REVERSE IMPRESSIONIST. For him, the composi-
tion simply supports the composite parts, rather than
the other way round. Instead of continually
adding shapeless forms to create a
whole, he subtracts them one by one
and gives them a new shape of their
own. “Take something you think you
know well. After I deconstruct it, you will
realise that you have been looking at it
without ever really seeing it properly all
this time. It is about mental reconstruction, a way of upending optical illusions
and repairing reality.” Vik’s most recent
project was filmed by the director Lucy
Walker to create “Waste Land”, which
has won more than twenty awards
worldwide. The project, located at Jardim
Gramacho, the world’s biggest landfill
site, offers a good illustration of Vik’s
artistic process.
Rio is Brazil
as the world
likes to think
of it, while
São Paulo is
the world as
seen by Brazil.
CHOOSING TO RENEW. In this derelict suburb of Rio de
Janeiro, 25,000 people make a living recycling rubbish.
Vik Muniz persuaded several of these untouchables to
express themselves through art. These people have a
very acute awareness of the environment: although they
are themselves considered “irretrievable” as it were, they
have chosen to live on the fringes of society rather than
as outlaws. This project finally gave them an opportunity
to “reclaim themselves”, so to speak. “They have no relationship with art and have never opened a monograph
FIVE UNMISSABLE DESTINATIONS IN SÃO PAULO
The highly prestigious Emiliano and Fasano hotels are home to the two best Italian restaurants in
Brazil’s most Italian city. The Beirut sandwich shop
run by Frevo , a Paulista who is more Lebanese than
a Lebanon Cedar. Love Story Club demonstrates the
extent to which São Paulo enjoys its nightlife. Fortes
Vilaça Art Gallery , where Vik exhibits his work.
or attended a lecture on Caravaggio,
yet they have some sense of the
aesthetic. Beauty is crucial for reproduction and it can be seen everywhere,”
says Vik, pointing to a photo of a
magnificent wading bird with perfect
plumage, which has made its home in
a dump. Recycling is an attack on the
natural order because it introduces
mobility and allows for renewal. There
is no doubt that living in a city means
you see nothing but duality, or even
paradoxes, in the world. Urban
thought challenges the agglomeration.
AN AIRBORNE CITY. Vik has two cities
in his life: his city of birth, São Paulo, and his adoptive
home, Rio de Janeiro. The first is Brazil’s economic
centre, the other its emotional heart. The former is more
urban than Brazilian, the latter more Brazilian than
urban. São Paulo is an airborne city that never touches
down, Rio is an ocean-washed beach. Rio is Brazil as
the world likes to think of it, while São Paulo is the world
as seen by Brazil. Rio is a playground to its own inhabitants, who are known as “Cariocas”, and a foreign land
to those from São Paulo (“Paulistas”). Rio is a caricature
of itself; it lives off its stereotypes and is serious about
having fun with them. In São Paulo, they ask how you
earn your living; in Rio they want to know how you enjoy
spending it. A Paulista will feel guilty about hours spent
idly, while a Carioca will shrug innocently. São Paulo has
an industrial simplicity and a love of a job well done,
while Rio heads directly for the beach. São Paulo, the
great international port of South America, is built at a
distance from the tempting shores of the Atlantic,
whereas central Rio embraces the coastline. In Rio de
Janeiro, every beach towel is a neighbourhood and
the rallying point for a clan. Social groups are dictated
more by your preferred sunbathing spot than by your •••
40
REJECTS OF THE SYSTEM
A reinterpretation of “The Death of Marat”, the famous –
and academic – painting by Louis David.
accent, behaviour or dress sense. Meetings, whether for
business or pleasure, are so defined by this intolerant
geography and clique mentality, that a British Officer’s
Club would seem positively democratic in comparison.
Local celebrities don’t mix with the wannabe silicon
stars, who avoid the mothers with children, who in turn
avoid the cross-dressers. The latter refuse to be seen
with the bronzed youths, who turn up
their noses at the surfers, and so forth…
SÃO PAULO NIGHTLIFE. Love Story is a club
PHOTOGRAPHIC MEMORY
Vik Muniz appropriates photos
by redrawing them from memory.
“They have no
relationship with
art. Yet, they
have some sense
of the aesthetic.”
where secrets are unveiled under open
skies, breaking with São Paulo’s closedyet-open atmosphere. Club nights are
wild, with a fascinating, feline and Felliniesque atmosphere. Until 4 a.m., it is
simply a club with green laser lights
streaking across the darkness. But as
dawn begins to break, it becomes a
refuge for the dregs of society, ladies of the night and jilted
beauty queens, all searching for the loves of their lives in
vain. Artists put on exhibitions in São Paulo because this
is where it all happens. “I go there regularly. Sometimes,
I only stay an hour and then need five days to recover.”
Rio may be a Mecca for all those obsessed with appearances, but São Paulo Fashion Week is the only international Brazilian fashion event. Here, the international
influence, mainly European, is as
apparent as in Buenos Aires. The
two most stylish restaurants in the
most well-to-do part of town are the
Fasano and Emiliano hotels, both of
which offer excellent Italian menus,
while “Beirut”, a sandwich chain
opened by Lebanese immigrants,
has become part of São Paulo
culture in much the same way as
Belgian Waffles are deemed to
come from New York. The Japanese community has also
settled in very well, and some restaurants imitate the
all-you-can-eat churrasqueira replacing the meat with
makis. Attentive waiters watch like auctioneers on the
lookout for the merest signal that you want to bid for
some extortionate item, or in this case, that you want a
free refill. The São Paulo dialect is a hot-headed outburst:
the city has such an appetite that its own words come out
half-gobbled. Rio speak is more free-flowing: it undulates
and slips through the fingers. Rio knows how to drink,
São Paulo how to eat. ■
BEFORE THE DAWN OF TIME
Vik Muniz is a Paulista by birth and a Carioca
by adoption. His apartment in Rio overlooks the elegant
Ipanema beach with the Dois Irmãos hills as a backdrop.
CULT Object
42
I AM NOT
LED
ICONIC
Flip-flops are more than just sandals.
They are blank canvasses that are
colourfully reinvented every season.
Acknowledgements: Artefacto (São Paulo).
BRAZIL HAS NEVER BEEN SO SELF-FOCUSED… NOR SO
INTERNATIONAL. FOR UNIVERSAL APPEAL THAT TOUCHES
SOULS AROUND THE WORLD, YOU NEED TO STRIKE A CHORD…
BUT IN YOUR OWN BACK YARD. Cervantes wrote beneath
the windmills of La Mancha, Cézanne set up his easel overlooking the hills of Provence, Woody Allen captures the
streets of Manhattan and Sebastião Salgado photographs
Brazil’s gold mines. Even beyond such works of genius, the
universal appeal of a culture is hidden in the smallest of
details. It is easy to forget that perfume is French, jeans are
American, watches are Swiss and sunglasses, Italian. And
does anyone remember that flip-flops are a Brazilian, or – to
be more specific – a São Paulo invention?
São Paulo’s Latin motto is “non ducor,
duco”, meaning, “I am not led, I lead”.
No one should be surprised that a nation
that excels at football should end up
with the world at its feet. Take it as the
foreshadowing of its international destiny if
you will, but this paradisiacal country felt
the need to name its most iconic invention
after another earthly paradise. The beauty
of the Havaiana (which means, “Hawaiian”)
is its simplicity, embraced by men and
woman, young and old, around the world.
It is a flat rubber sole with a thong fixed
between the first two toes created in 1962
by the São Paulo Alpargatas company.
The idea came from a best-selling shoe
developed for the coffee industry: espadrilles with soft soles
that did not damage the coffee beans laid out to dry. To
begin with, the Havaiana was a symbol of poverty and the
garb of homeless roamers, but it then became the quasiofficial footwear for men and woman in São Paulo. Today,
SÃO PAULO’S MOTTO COULD SO
EASILY BE APPLIED TO ITS MOST
FAMOUS INVENTION: THE HAVAIANA
FLIP-FLOP. IT OWES ITS GLOBAL
RECOGNITION TO ITS REFUSAL
TO FOLLOW THE CROWD. HERE,
WE TAKE A CLOSER LOOK AT THIS
UNASSUMING SUCCESS STORY.
Text Julien Bouré Photography Jean-Claude Amiel
they are synonymous with chilling out and sunbathing on
a recliner. They are worn on hot beaches rather than
grimy streets, or around the house. In São Paulo, a glance
at your footwear tells a passer-by all they need to know.
Social rank and taste are laid bare to the world. Flip-flops
can come with a transparent thong, a wedge heel or
customised with tattoos to match the
city’s inhabitants or graffiti to match
its walls.
In the 1970s, Havaianas were all
identical: white, with varying shades of
pale blue to match the uppers. For the
thrill of causing a shock, children began
swapping their side strips to experiment
with the colours of their sandals. Now
respectable forty-somethings, they still
wear their flip-flops everywhere: to the
office, to a restaurant or on a date.
There is even something slightly
Biblical about these vine leaves for the
feet in this devout country, which has a
look-but-don’t-touch relationship with
naturism. Some call them “thongs for
the feet”, and it has to be said that their minimalist
Y-shape justifies the name. Even Brazilians who are not
keen collectors have at least three or four pairs. At the
prestigious Copacabana Palace in Rio de Janeiro, every
guest receives a pair of original Havaiana flip-flops as
a welcome gift. The only mention of the hotel is their
characteristic blue colour. As they are unique, some
collectors will pay for a night there simply to leave with
the sought-after footwear. ■
The beauty of
the Havaiana
is its simplicity,
embraced
by men and
woman, young
and old, around
the world.
43
RECYCLED
CHIC
DESIGN Coffee Corners
A BIN MIGHT NOT CULTIVATE BEAUTY, BUT IT CAN BE
TURNED INTO A THING OF BEAUTY. CLEVER CREATIVITY
AND FAULTLESS TASTE ARE ALL IT TAKES.
Stylist Céline Fakhouri Photography CIA de Foto
FOREGROUND: “CIRCULAR” CHAIR (SUPERLIMÃO).“FRUITERA” FRUIT BASKET (CAMPANA BROTHERS FOR CONCEITO FIRMA CASA).“LARANJA” CHAIR MADE OF COMPRESSED CARDBOARD (SUPERLIMÃO). MIDDLE GROUND: “BANKUKO” BENCH MADE OF COMPRESSED CARDBOARD (SUPERLIMÃO). CERAMIC “KRATER” VASE (HOLARIA FOR BENEDIXT).“MALEVICH” VASE (LUIZ PEDRAZZI FOR
IBRUGGER OBJECTS). GLASS AND CERFLEX “ATTACHE-MOI” VASE (LUIZ PEDRAZZI FOR IBRUGGER OBJECTS). BACKGROUND: “CARUARU” LAMP (MARCELO ROSENBAUM
METAL AND COTTON CHAIR (CAMPANA BROTHERS FOR CONCEITO FIRMA CASA). WOOD AND RUBBER “PAULISTINHA” STOOL (LUIZ PEDRAZZI FOR IBRUGGER OBJECTS).
FOR
MI CASA).
45
46
FROM TOP TO BOTTOM, LEFT TO RIGHT.“PORCELANA” LAMP (ESTUDIO MANUS). R540 POUFFE (FETICHE DESIGN FOR MI CASA). PLASTIC (PET) DISH (SUPERLIMÃO).“BANCO CESTO” POUFFE
(MARCELO ROSENBAUM FOR MI CASA). “PALLET” CHAIR (MAURICIO ARRUDA FOR COLETIVO AMOR DE MADRE). PLASTIC-COATED CANVAS BAG (MARCELO ROSENBAUM FOR
B
“R
” (MARIA
LOVISA
DOHLBERG
POUR
THE L-OLLIPOP
SHOPPE
OUPIE EN
BOIS
(BO CONCEPT
).).SOUS
-TASSE
; CUILLÈRE
RITUAL
SPRESSO
I CASA).
POLF
ORCELAIN
“KRATER
” VASE
(HOLARIA
FORFREEMOVER
BENEDIXT).CHEZ
“ATTACHE
MOI” VASE
(LUIZ).PTEDRAZZI
FOR
IBRUGGER
OBJECTS
LINHA
JOSÉRITUAL
CHESTLUNGO
(MAURICIO
ARRUDA
FOREC
OLETIVO;
MOUGEOIR
PLATEAU
ITUAL
NDRÉE
PUTMAN
POUR NOBJECT
ESPRESSO(L
).UIZ PEDRAZZI FOR IBRUGGER OBJECTS).
AMOR
DE R
M
ADRE(A
). O
PPOSITE
.“LOVEDESIGN
” DECORATIVE
FLOWER
POWER
“NICE TO MEET YOU... YOU TOO!”
A CHANCE MEETING, A FLEETING
GLANCE. AN ALL-NATURAL
ATTRACTION. COTTON, PLANT
FIBRES, LOCALLY PRODUCED
ACCESSORIES. THEIR EYES MEET,
THEY BOTH UNDERSTAND:
SUSTAINABLE FASHION.
Stylist Vinnie Pizzingrilli
Photography Cia de Foto
HE WEARS: T-SHIRT (COLCCI). TROUSERS (EDEN).
CAP (NEW ERA). SHOES (CNS). SHE WEARS: T-SHIRT
(ESTUDIO M). DENIM DRESS (LEVI’S). EARRINGS
AND BRACELET (PITANGA). FLIP-FLOPS (HAVAIANAS).
FASHION São Paulo
49
51
LOOK ONE. SHE WEARS: DRESS (A MULHER DO PADRE). NECKLACE AND BRACELET (PITANGA). FLIP-FLOPS (HAVAIANAS). HE WEARS: POLO SHIRT (PINGUIM). T-SHIRT (VISTO IMAGINARIUM).
TROUSERS (ESTUDIO FRAME). FLIP-FLOPS (CNS). LOOK TWO: SEE PREVIOUS PAGES. BOTTOM RIGHT: SUNGLASSES (VOLV).
52
LOOK ONE. SHE WEARS: T-SHIRT (IODICE DENIM). SHORTS (ESTUDIO M). SHOES (CARRANO). NECKLACE (PITANGA). HAT (TAG & JUICE). HE WEARS: SHIRT AND T-SHIRT (A MULHER DO
PADRE). TROUSERS (COLCCI). WATCH (QUIKSILVER). FLIP-FLOPS (HAVAIANAS). HAT (TAG & JUICE). LOOK TWO. SHE WEARS: VEST TOP (ROSA CHA). SHORTS (MONICA LINZ). NECKLACE
(ESTUDIO M). BRACELET (PITANGA). HE WEARS: T-SHIRT (EDEN). TROUSERS (MARIO QUEIROZ).
54
SHE WEARS: DRESS (RAFAELLA CASSOLARI). NECKLACE AND BRACELETS (PITANGA). FLIP-FLOPS (HAVAIANAS). HE WEARS: T-SHIRT (VISTO IMAGINARIUM). BERMUDA SHORTS (MARIO QUEIROZ).
SUNGLASSES (VOLV).
SHE WEARS: T-SHIRT (ESTUDIO M). DENIM DRESS (LEVI’S). EARRINGS AND BRACELET (PITANGA). FLIP-FLOPS (HAVAIANAS). HE WEARS: T-SHIRT (COLCCI). TROUSERS (EDEN). CAP (NEW ERA).
SHOES (CNS).
NEXT
CYBER Café
57
OPPOSITE.
PIXIE ARPEGGIO
ESPRESSO CUP
(NESPRESSO - DESIGN
BY 5.5. DESIGNERS).
BELOW.
ELECTRIC LIME PIXIE
MACHINE (NESPRESSO).
PIXIE IS THE LATEST
AND SMARTEST ADDITION
TO THE NESPRESSO
FAMILY: AN INTELLIGENT
AND ENVIRONMENTALLY
FRIENDLY MACHINE.
A COLLECTION OF
PIXIE ACCESSORIES
HAS BEEN CREATED BY
5.5. DESIGNERS, INSPIRED
BY THE MACHINE AND
EMBLEMATIC NESPRESSO
SHAPES. MAKE WAY
FOR THE SPONTANEOUS
GENERATION!
Production Sandrine Giacobetti
Photography Jean-Claude Amiel
58
ELECTRIC RED
PIXIE MACHINE
(NESPRESSO).
ELECTRIC
PIXIE MACHINE
(NESPRESSO).
INDIGO
PIXIE VIVALTO LUNGO CUP
(NESPRESSO - DESIGN BY 5.5. DESIGNERS).
WHY DO WE LOVE PIXIE?
For its technology with zero wastage:
it uses up no more energy, space or
time than necessary.
• Energy-efficient: it automatically
switches itself off after 9 minutes of
inactivity and has low power
consumption.
• Compact: at only 11 cm wide,
it is barely thicker than a handbag.
• Fast: with a rapid heating time,
it reaches brewing temperature
in less than 30 seconds.
For its ease of use: no instruction
manual is needed!
• Intuitive, it indicates exactly when
it is ready to brew or when the water
level is low.
• Considerate, with an adjustable
cup holder for your Espresso cup or
Latte Macchiato glass.
PIXIE ARPEGGIO, DULSÃO DO BRASIL, ROSABAYA DE COLOMBIA ,
CAPRICCIO AND VOLLUTO ESPRESSO CUPS
ELECTRIC TITANIUM PIXIE MACHINE (NESPRESSO)
AND PIXIE ARPEGGIO ESPRESSO cUP
For its refreshing design.
• Bold, electric colours inspired
by industrial aesthetics: indigo,
steel blue, lime, red, aluminium
and titanium.
CHEF Alex Atala
ALEX
ATALA
A CELEBRITY IN SOUTH AMERICA,
ALEX ATALA IS A CHEF AT “D.O.M.” AND
“DAVLA E DITO” AND AN AMBASSADOR FOR
NEW BRAZILIAN CUISINE THAT RESPECTS
BOTH PEOPLE AND THE ENVIRONMENT.
HE IS CONTINUALLY ON THE LOOKOUT
FOR LITTLE-KNOWN INGREDIENTS TO
CREATE DISHES THAT EMBODY HIS
HOMELAND AND CULTURE, MAKING
THEM ACCESSIBLE TO ALL.
ON A QUEST FOR
NEW SENSATIONS
Text Anna Penotti Photography Jean-Claude Amiel
PRIPRIOCA-FLAVOURED CRÈME CARAMEL
WITH LEMON AND BANANA-FIG RAVIOLI
61
CARPACCIO OF FRESH AMAZONIAN
PALM HEARTS, SCALLOPS, SQUID AND
FOIE GRAS
INSPIRATION AMAZONIENNE
UNCONVENTIONAL. THAT’S ONE WAY TO DESCRIBE THE
CAREER OF ALEX ATALA, WHO LEFT HOME FOR THE BRIGHT
LIGHTS OF SÃO PAULO AT THE AGE OF JUST 14. He will happily
admit that he has tried his hand at everything. After working
as a DJ in the underground club scene, he bought a one-way
ticket to Europe when he was 18. A painter and decorator
one day, a dishwasher in a restaurant the
next, he finally enrolled at a catering school in
Namur, Belgium on the advice of a friend, so
that he could qualify for a work permit. It was
to change his life. Having discovered a
passion, he went on to gain more experience
in France, Belgium and Italy, before returning to
Brazil in 1994 with a few new tattoos, fluency
in two new languages and an unshakeable
determination to reveal the gastronomic
potential of Brazilian cuisine to the world. With
his Wildman look, he is a hunter at heart who
can handle a bow and arrow just as well as a
shotgun. He sought out native ingredients and
In the new dining room of the “D.O.M.” restaurant,
statues, plants and other artistic objects brought
back from the Amazon rainforest provide daily
sources of inspiration.
combed the Amazon rainforest in his quest to discover his
own culinary identity. The opening of his first restaurant,
“D.O.M”, created a shockwave in the culinary world. It
heralded the dawning of authentic
Brazilian cuisine, which was both
sensually appealing and environmentally friendly. Alex Atala is the darling
of Brazil, an ambassador of South
American food and a founding member of the “Cook It Raw” movement
(see page 88). But rather than sit
back on his laurels, he continues to
fuel his questing spirit and is
constantly driven to search for new
flavours. Here, he reveals his “raw”
vision of a cuisine midway between
nature and culture.
“In my kitchen,
we spend a lot of
time thinking
and researching
flavours. But the
most important
thing is
emotion.”
CONVICTIONS
A chef can do more than just produce
recipes; he can turn cooking into a cultural
and environmental adventure.
SÃO PAULO’S LATIN MOTTO IS
“NON DUCOR, DUCO”, WHICH
MEANS “I AM NOT LED, I LEAD”. IS THAT YOUR MOTTO TOO,
WHEN IT COMES TO COOKING?
ALEX ATALA. It’s a difficult expression to convey. You
can also translate “ducor” by “giving your best”. In my
kitchen, we spend a lot of time thinking and researching
flavours. But the most important thing is emotion. In Brazil’s
national anthem, there is line which sums up my country
well: “For the sons of this land, you are a beloved homeland
and generous mother.” That’s the message I try to convey
in my cooking: the pride and bounty of this land.
YOU HAVE BECOME THE AMBASSADOR OF BRAZILIAN
CUISINE. IN WHAT WAYS IS IT EVOLVING?
This is a really exciting time to be a chef. Young people
are getting more and more involved in food culture. Often,
they train abroad and then come back to Brazil to reinvent
traditional dishes and highlight indigenous ingredients.
Today, everyone is working towards establishing a
uniquely Brazilian culinary culture, throwing off former
Portuguese, Spanish and African influences. The movement
began when several French chefs came here at the end of
the 1980s. At that time, the country was closed to imports
and they had to start using local produce to create their
dishes. It all demonstrated that “made in Brazil” can mean
top-quality cooking.
YOU ARE SAID TO BE VERY COMMITTED TO DEFENDING
SMALL-SCALE PRODUCERS.
As chefs, we have a role to play in encouraging quality,
because it is so often beneficial for the environment and
also tends to improve people’s living standards. For
example, the black rice I use at “D.O.M.” is produced
200 km from São Paulo in a relatively poor area with •••
SERVES 4 – PREPARATION TIME: 20 min. COOKING TIME: 2 min.
INGREDIENTS: 4 fresh (or tinned) palm hearts – 120 g (4.2 oz.)
fresh squid – 20 g (0.7 oz.) dried edible seaweed – olive oil –
1 teaspoon of soy sauce – 10 leaves of flat-leaf parsley –
10 chives – 8 good-sized scallops – 3 pinches of wasabi
powder (or horseradish) – 30 g (1.1 oz.) foie gras. For the
coral sauce: 100 ml (3.5 fl. oz.) lemon juice – 90 g (3.2 oz.)
scallop corals – 50 ml (1.8 fl. oz.) soy sauce.
Thinly slice the fresh palm hearts with a mandolin, or if you
are using tinned palm hearts, slice as finely as possible. Put
to one side. ■ Plunge the squid in boiling water for 2 minutes,
then immediately place in cold water so that they do not
continue cooking. Drain and put to one side. ■ Blend the
ingredients for the coral sauce in a food processor for
5 minutes. Pass through a sieve and put to one side. ■ Soak
the seaweed in cold water for 2 minutes, drain and mix with
the squid rings. Season with the finely chopped herbs (keep
4 chives and 4 parsley leaves to one side), salt and pepper
and drizzle with olive oil. ■ Halve each scallop width-wise.
■ Combine the wasabi with enough water to make a paste
and spread a very thin layer over the scallops. ■ Place one
palm heart, then one slice of scallop on each plate. Continue
to create alternating layers and finish with a palm heart (use
a circular mould if necessary). Add a little squid and a shaving
of foie gras. ■ Garnish with a parsley leaf and one chive.
■ Pour a line of coral sauce, season, and drizzle with olive oil
mixed with soy sauce to serve.
low yields. In terms of the quantity they produce, they are
simply not competitive. But their rice has an incredible
flavour and is so much better than normal rice. I have
spoken a lot about it and their sales have
gone through the roof. Now the whole
valley has stopped intensive agriculture –
the dominant model in Brazil – and has
turned to producing high-quality wild rice.
Both the environment and the growers are
reaping the benefits.
YOU ALSO SPEND A LOT OF TIME IN THE AMAZON REGION. WHY THIS AREA IN PARTICULAR?
“I try and taste
everything. In life
as well as in the
kitchen. I don’t
believe in bad
taste.”
The Amazon rainforest covers half of
Brazil, so it is natural that half of my work
should be based in this vibrant region. I use a
sweet-smelling root called priprioca, which is used in cosmetics, in some of my dishes; thanks to an increase in its
production, three hundred people are enjoying improved
living conditions and are protecting the rainforest, rather
than standing by as it disappears. Cooking alone cannot
provide all the answers, but it is a force for good that can
help to protect people and the environment.
WHEN YOU WERE YOUNGER,
YOU WENT THROUGH A RATHER
NIHILISTIC PUNK PHASE. ARE YOU
MORE UPBEAT ABOUT THE FUTURE
OF COOKING NOW?
More and more, cooking will
become a way of expressing
oneself, both as an individual
and as a citizen of a particular
country. Nowadays, a chef can
do more than just produce
recipes; he can turn cooking
into a cultural and environmental adventure. In the
future, food will be the point at which culture and nature meet. And the main ingredient will be a healthy
dose of thinking about where we source our products.
HOW HAVE YOUR EXTENSIVE TRAVELS INFLUENCED YOUR
COOKING?
In some respects, after spending those years in
Europe, I ended up feeling even more Brazilian. This
convinced me that all tastes are first and foremost
cultural. The first time I tasted foie gras or caviar, it was
an intense and not necessarily enjoyable experience.
But I grew to enjoy those flavours. It’s not easy to •••
The misuse of alcohol is dangerous for your health. Please drink responsibly.
AL DENTE BLACK RICE,
BRAZIL NUT MILK AND GREEN VEGETABLES
SERVES 4 – SOAKING TIME: 5 hrs (for the Brazil nuts)
PREPARATION TIME: 20 min. COOKING TIME: 30 min.
INGREDIENTS: 200 g (7.1 oz.) black rice – 1 litre (35.2 fl. oz.)
chicken stock – 1 g (0.1 oz.) saffron threads – 100 ml (3.5 fl. oz.)
white wine – 1 onion – 1 garlic clove – 2 tablespoons of olive oil
– 8 asparagus spears – 1 green pepper – 100 g (3.5 oz.) mangetout – 100 g (3.5 oz.) leek whites – 100 g (3.5 oz.) broccoli –
1 stick of celery – 10 chives – 100 g (3.5 oz.) Brazil nuts.
Blend the Brazil nuts in a food processor with 300 ml (10.6 fl. oz.)
cold water and leave to soak in a cool place for 5 hours. ■ Peel
and finely chop the onion and sweat in 1 tablespoon of oil until
translucent. ■ Add the pre-rinsed rice and the wine, and cook
over a low heat until all the liquid has evaporated. ■ Add the
saffron, season, and add several ladles of stock. Continue cooking
over a low heat, stirring from time to time and adding the stock,
allowing each ladleful to be absorbed before adding the next.
Do not allow the rice to stick to the bottom of the pan. Cook for
around 30 minutes until the rice is cooked but still a little al
dente. ■ While the rice is cooking, chop the pepper into 3 cm
squares and the mangetout into 1 cm strips. Remove the tough
part of the asparagus spears and peel if necessary. Chop the leek
into 5 cm sections and blanch the broccoli florets in boiling
water for one minute. ■ Sauté all the ingredients in a hot pan for
a few minutes with 1 tablespoon of oil and season. ■ Set aside on
a low heat. ■ Strain the nut and water mixture using a strainer to
obtain “Brazil nut milk”. ■ Divide the rice and sautéed vegetables
between 4 plates and sprinkle with finely chopped celery.
■ Drizzle the Brazil nut milk around the rice and vegetables and
sprinkle with finely chopped chives to serve.
66
ALEX ATALA IN 7 DATES
1968 Born 3rd June in the state of São Paulo.
1983 Left home for São Paulo city, where he worked
as a DJ.
1986 Left for Europe at the age of 18.
1994 Returned to Brazil.
1999 Opened his gastronomic restaurant D.O.M.
2003 Published his first book, “Por uma gastronomia
brasileira”
2009 Opened his second restaurant Dalva e Dito,
specialising in reinvented Brazilian home-cooking.
Helps launch the “Cook It Raw” movement,
promoting responsible, sustainable cooking.
introduce a new flavour, but if we carefully introduce littleknown Brazilian ingredients, such as fruits that have a
sweet yet fermented taste, they can soon be considered
as “de rigueur”.
WHAT LEAVES A BAD TASTE IN YOUR MOUTH?
All Brazilians resent deforestation, but I don’t believe
in “bad taste”. I try and taste everything, in life as well as
in the kitchen. Even fast food. I try to understand why so
many people enjoy and consume things that are so
mediocre.
IT IS SAID THAT YOUR TATTOOS ALL DEPICT EMOTIONS. IF YOU
WERE TO GET A FOOD-THEMED TATTOO, WHAT WOULD IT BE?
A big plate of rice and beans! We eat that here seven
days a week. It is highly representative of Brazil – maybe
even stronger for us than pasta is for the Italians.
APART FROM A STRONG COFFEE IN THE MORNING, WHAT
DRIVES YOU? WHAT KEEPS YOU AWAKE AT NIGHT?
My children, of course. And my firm belief that South
America can contribute new flavours to the world. There
are so many potential ingredients here, so many possibilities that it’s almost alarming! On a positive note, we are
addressing the topic with botanists and anthropologists
and that’s very exciting. For years I have been searching
for an edible wild mushroom I was told about by Indians.
I have to find it. That’s what’s driving me at the moment!
SO YOU’RE STILL A HUNTER AT HEART, THEN?
(Laughs.) More of an explorer. I feel like the adventurers
who left Portugal to find a new world and riches. Except
that the world I’m exploring is my own and I want its riches
to be for everyone. ■
PIRAIBA CATFISH WITH A BACON AND
TAPIOCA CRUST
SERVES 4 – PREPARATION TIME: 25 min. COOKING TIME: 50 min.
INGREDIENTS: 400 g (14.1 oz.) piraiba catfish or sea bass fillets –
300 g (10.6 oz.) bacon – 200 g (7.1 oz.) tapioca balls – 500 ml
(17.6 fl. oz.) fish stock – 250 ml (8.8 fl. oz.) tucupi (or vegetable
stock) – 1 garlic clove, finely chopped – 1 onion, chopped – 6
sprigs of fresh coriander – 6 basil leaves – a bunch of bitter salad
leaves (such as chicory, rocket, etc.) – 100 g (3.5 oz.) cassava
flour (or potato starch flour) – 1 pimenta de cheiro (or 1 red chilli)
– rapeseed oil. To decorate: borage flowers, pansies, etc.
Cook the bacon in a hot pan with a drizzle of oil until crispy.
■ Dry the bacon on kitchen paper, allow it to cool so that it
hardens and blend in a food processor until it has the consistency
of breadcrumbs. ■ Heat the tucupi (or vegetable stock) with the
chopped onion, garlic, fish stock, coriander, basil, pimenta and
bitter salad leaves. Add salt. ■ Simmer uncovered on a gentle
heat for one hour, until one third of the stock remains. ■ Drain
and put to one side. ■ Meanwhile, cook the tapioca in a large pan
of boiling water for around 45 minutes or until the balls are
translucent. ■ Drain and add to the stock. ■ Heat 2 tablespoons
of oil in a pan. ■ Cut the fish fillets into bite-size pieces and dip
one side in the cassava or potato flour, then in the bacon crumbs
to create a crust. ■ Cook for 2 minutes on the bacon side in the
hot pan, then carefully turn and cook the fleshy side for 1 minute.
■ Divide the stock and tapioca mixture on to four plates, place
the fish on top and sprinkle with the flowers. ■ Serve immediately.
These recipes from “D.O.M.” have been adapted.
68
GRANDS CRUS Dulsão do Brasil
BRAZILIAN
SELECTION
DID YOU KNOW THAT THE DULSÃO DO BRASIL GRAND
CRU IS ESSENTIALLY COMPOSED OF JUST ONE VARIETY
OF COFFEE? IT IS BOURBON COFFEE, AND ITS YELLOW AND
RED CHERRIES COME FROM BRAZIL. COME WITH US TO THE
VALE DA GRAMA, A VALLEY THAT IS THE LEADING PRODUCER
OF THIS PRECIOUS COMMODITY.
Text Julien Bouré Photography Olivier Gachen
70
71
Caldas in the South. You cross flat lands that seem to have
been stripped bare by conquistadors, gold-diggers and
herders who have been coming here to make their
fortune for over two hundred years. The “Brazilian
miracle” keeps its promise, wherever you go: rust-coloured
fields darkened by fertilisers, irrigation channels that
rise from the ground like artesian aquifers, a crop-spraying
biplane swooping like the Red Baron. Even the toucans,
who seem to have missed the fact that their impractical
beaks should disqualify them from flying, engage in
acrobatic displays over your car.
GENTLEMEN FARMERS
The Vale da
Grama is the
uncontested
capital of
Bourbon coffee.
from Vale da Grama, a tiny region close
to the town of Poços de Caldas, the
uncontested Bourbon capital. Bourbon is
a cultivar that belongs to one of the noblest coffee families
in Brazil, the country that rules the coffee world like
a dominant superpower. Historically, this variety was
developed by the French Monarch’s botanists on
Bourbon Island. When the island changed its name to
Réunion under the new revolutionary regime, Bourbon
coffee was carrying out its own revolution
far from the Indian Ocean, in Brazil,
where it had been introduced a few
decades earlier via French Guiana. This
coffee, with its red cherries, naturally
crossed with a local yellow variety and
their unexpected union produced a golden
cherry that is sweeter and ripens earlier
than the red cherry.
SUN-BLEACHED COFFEE TREES
The sun-bleached tops of the coffee trees in Vale
da Grama have filled the land like fields of mirabelle plums
every summer for more than a century. It might be a dazzling
sight, but this rare coffee could soon disappear. Its naturally
fleshy cherry offers beautifully rounded aromas to balance
out any acidic tones without blunting them: a cup of
Bourbon is thus a perfect prodigy, sweet but not too sweet,
strong but not too fierce. Sadly, though, coffee like this
BRAZILIAN MIRACLE
When driving through the Cerrado, the huge savannah
that lies between the coast and the virgin forest of the
Amazon basin, you are treated to a natural spectacle that is
as diverse as a Rio Carnival parade. The Minas Gerais state
offers a unique sense of profusion as it stretches from
Uberlândia (see Experts section) in the North, to Poços de
G. Pardo
IT IS RARE FOR A NESPRESSO GRAND
CRU TO CONTAIN COFFEE FROM A SINGLE
REGION. IT IS EVEN RARER FOR THE COFFEE
TO BE PREDOMINANTLY COMPOSED OF
A SINGLE VARIETY. DULSÃO DO BRASIL IS THE
EXCEPTION THAT PROVES THE RULE, OUR
FIRST “PURE ORIGIN” COFFEE TO COME
EXCLUSIVELY FROM BRAZIL. It comes mainly
On the way out of Poços de Caldas, a little road splits off
to the right and turns into a red earth track thrusting its way
through the pine trees. Then, without warning, the tree line
breaks, and you’re in Vale da Grama, which looks like
a picture-postcard Bavarian landscape. The farms have
preserved their colonial austerity, their white houses with
navy blue shutters sitting under overhanging roofs. In the
early days, when Brazil was still no more than a distant
Portuguese province, the only person who lived in this
unknown valley was an ancestor of Francisco Lotufo, who
now owns “La Fazenda do Barreiro” which produces one
of the best coffees in the area. The descendants of this first
Lord of Poços de Caldas later sold the land where the town
populated by 100,000 inhabitants now stands. Immigrants
soon arrived from Italy, built farms and opened shops. Today,
you will find the best pizza in Brazil on Correa Neto street,
hot from the oven of “Pizza na Roça”.
This far-flung corner of Minas Gerais is characterised by
thermal springs, where people come to pamper themselves
and relax. In this former coffee-growing area, some
landowners have grown so prosperous that coffee is now no
longer their main source of income. It is almost a gardening
hobby for them, like wealthy Europeans who buy themselves
a prestigious vineyard to tender. They offer weekend or
holiday lodgings where people come to get away from it all.
The real espresso coffees they serve are a testament to the
relaxed way of life in this region, and are a far cry from the
sweetened filter coffee that the farmers love to sip. These
fazenda coffee plantations are big enough to manage their
own exports and employ their own agronomists. They all
have their own nurseries, where coffee grains are left to open
like a butterfly’s chrysalis. Not all the coffee-growers in the
region are gentlemen farmers, however. For them, coffee is
not an extra luxury, but a way of life.
72
73
and 20% of international output. In this industry, Brazilian
quantities are always huge in comparison to the capacities
of other agricultural countries, even including rare commodities.
Basically, there was enough Bourbon coffee for everyone.
The weakness, but also the strength of these plantations, is
that they are too hilly for harvesting machines to be used
instead of traditional methods. With labour becoming
increasingly expensive, coffee-growers do not really have
a choice. Either they manage to sell their coffee above
market rates, or they have to sell their land. This is why
Nespresso launched the Nespresso AAA Sustainable QualityTM
Program, which puts the world’s best coffees back in the
spotlight. It encourages producers to grow more, because
the higher labour costs are offset by better quality coffee,
which Nespresso buys at full price.
BOURBON VALLEY
NATIONAL
EMBLEM
The yellow cherry
of Bourbon
coffee is a symbol
of Brazilian
excellence.
There was once
a time when this
historical emblem
was threatened
with ruin.
Now, thanks to
the generosity
of coffee
connoisseurs,
it is the pride
of the region.
comes at a price, and a high one at that. Sometimes too high
for the producers, who cannot allow themselves to sell a
variety that produces so little and is so vulnerable to
disease at normal coffee prices. They need to be encouraged
to maintain this crop, which is older than the Neo-Gothic
windows that adorn the old coffee exchange in the port of Santos.
THE STRENGTH OF THESE PLANTATIONS
It all started with a limited edition in 2006. Usually, a single
harvest is not enough to produce the quantity of good coffee
beans required for a large-scale marketing effort. This,
however, is Minas Gerais, an agricultural region as vast as it
is fruitful, the São Paulo of the agricultural countryside, a
kind of vast parallel world or fourth dimension. São Paulo
has a population as large as Australia, and sometimes even
dreams of becoming a country of its own. As for Minas
Gerais, it alone accounts for 50% of Brazilian coffee
Vale da Grama is the primary producer of Bourbon coffee because it combines a number of the qualities
required for good coffee: its soil is watered by thermal
springs and is rich in minerals, while distinct seasons limit
over-exposure to the sun and prevent the cherries from
over-ripening. The resulting coffee is very balanced, but a
lot of hard work and precision are also required to guarantee
exceptional results. Higher up in Minas Gerais, on the
hot plains where there is so little rain, the coffee trees are
stimulated by water stress: you merely have to start
irrigation to produce intense flowering in a short period of
time. This leads to near-perfect harvests, because the fruit
all ripens at the same time. Here, though, in Vale da Grama,
where the climate and slopes make such sophisticated methods impossible, harvesters have to separate ripe cherries
from green ones manually; this selection process cannot be
conducted by mechanical harvesters.
SWEET NOTES OF HONEY
The pulp is removed from the cherries by machine.
Traditionally, the coffee is fermented for a few hours first to
remove its mucilage. Now, special processes enable this
sugary film to leave sweet notes of honey on the grain itself,
providing a more refined flavour than the coffee usually
produced in the Minas Gerais region. This region is so
important because of its high output, but also because the
coffee it produces is often excellent for making espressos.
Their special aroma provides a base to which stronger, more
flavoursome coffee blends can be added. Bourbon coffee,
on the other hand, has too much character and is too
expensive to produce for it to be used merely as a base. It
would be like using premium cognac to flambé your crêpes! ■
COFFEE
COLOURS
COFFEE IS NOT JUST ONE COLOUR. IT OFFERS A WHOLE RANGE
OF SHADES, A DAZZLING RAINBOW THAT IS BEAUTIFULLY
COMPLEMENTED WHEN SERVED WITH BRAZILIAN DELICACIES.
TRY THESE RECIPES AND SEE FOR YOURSELF. Production Marie Leteuré
Stylist Élodie Rambaud Photography Jérôme Bilic
VOLLUTO WITH LEMON CUSTARD
recipe page 76
Pixie Espresso cup (Nespresso – design by 5.5. Designers). Ritual Espresso cup (Nespresso – design by Andrée Putman).
GOURMET Coffee
DULSÃO DO BRASIL WITH BRIGADEIROS
recipe page 76
75
76
77
DULSÃO DO BRASIL WITH BRIGADEIROS
photo page 75
photo page 74
SERVES 6
PREPARATION TIME: 15 min.
COOKING TIME: 5 min.
COOLING TIME: 2 hrs.
INGREDIENTS: 6 Volluto capsules
(6 x 40 ml).
For the custard: 3 eggs - 60 g
(2.1 oz.) butter - 100 ml (3.5 fl. oz.)
lemon juice - finely grated lemon
zest - 100 g (3.5 oz.) sugar - 10 g
(0.4 oz.) cornflour - 1 sheet of
gelatine - 300 ml (10.6 fl. oz.)
whipping cream.
(caramel spread, see recipe on next page) - 200 g
(7 oz.) dark chocolate - 100 ml (3.5 fl. oz.) whipping
cream - 20 g (0.7 oz.) butter
- 50 g (1.8 oz.) chocolate sprinkles.
Cocoa also
comes from
Brazil, a
treasure of
the Amazon
protected
by these
brigadeiros.
Beat the eggs in a bowl. ■ Place the sugar, butter, lemon juice and cornflour
in a saucepan and bring to the boil,
whisking all the time. ■ Then add the
beaten eggs and whisk until the cream
is smooth. ■ Take off the heat and add
the drained gelatine, which will melt
immediately. ■ Leave to cool. ■ Whip
the cream until stiff, add the lemon zest and stir it into the
mixture. ■ Spoon it into glasses and place in the fridge for at
least 2 hours. ■ Decorate with confetti and serve with a
Volluto Grand Cru.
Break the chocolate into pieces and melt
with the cream and butter. ■ Stir until
smooth, then add the dulce de leche.
■ Leave to cool and put in the fridge for at
least 4 hours. ■ Put the chocolate sprinkles
in a bowl. ■ Turn the mixture into balls
using two tea spoons, then roll them in the
sprinkles and put them back in the fridge.
■ Serve with a Dulsão do Brasil Grand Cru.
HANDY HINT If it’s hot outside, keep the
brigadeiros in the fridge
until it’s time to serve them.
Ritual Espresso cup (Nespresso – design by Andrée Putman). Mud Australia bowl.
VOLLUTO WITH LEMON CUSTARD
SERVES 6
INGREDIENTS: 6 Dulsão do Brasil capsules (6 x 40 ml).
For the brigadeiros: 100 g (3.5 oz.) dulce de leche
ROMA WITH COCONUT AND
DULCE DE LECHE BISCUITS
recipe page 78
78
79
ROMA WITH COCONUT AND
DULCE DE LECHE BISCUITS
photo page 77
SERVES 6
COOKING TIME FOR THE DULCE DE LECHE (CARAMEL SPREAD):
2 hrs. Prepare the day before if possible.
PREPARATION TIME FOR THE BISCUIT DOUGH: 10 min.
COOKING TIME FOR THE BISCUITS: 10 min, the next day.
INGREDIENTS: 6 Roma capsules (6 x 40 ml).
For the caramel spread: one 397 g tin of Nestlé condensed
milk. For the biscuits: 100 g (3.5 oz.) desiccated coconut
VOLLUTO WITH FROMAGE BLANC,
LIME AND BRAZIL NUT MOUSSE
- 80 g (2.8 oz.) sugar - 2 egg whites - 20 g (0.7 oz.)
plain flour - 40 g (1.4 oz.) melted butter.
Coconut from
the North of
Brazil, dulce
de leche from
the South,
brought
together
by coffee.
Stand the unopened tin of condensed milk in a large saucepan.
■ Cover it with cold water. ■ Bring
to the boil, put the lid on and leave
to simmer for 2 hours. ■ Keep an eye
on the water level and add if
required. ■ Then plunge the tin of
condensed milk into cold water
to stop the cooking process and open
it. ■ Keep at room temperature for
24 hours. For the biscuits, beat the
egg whites until they foam. ■ Stir in
the coconut, sugar, flour and melted
butter and put the dough in the
fridge for 24 hours.
The next day, put a tablespoon of
dough on a silicon baking sheet and
spread into a circle using the tips of
your fingers. ■ Cook the biscuits in the oven for 8 to
10 minutes at 180°C (gas mark 6) and leave to cool.
■ Spread some dulce de leche between two biscuits and
serve with a Roma Grand Cru.
SERVES 6
INGREDIENTS: 6 Volluto capsules (6 x 40 ml).
For the mousse: 500 g (17.6 oz.) fromage
blanc - 100 g (3.5 oz.) sugar - the juice
of one lime - 2 egg whites - 3 sheets of
gelatine or a teaspoon of agar - 80 g
(2.8 oz.) Brazil nuts.
Toast the Brazil nuts in a pan without
any grease and chop finely. Put to one
side. ■ Soak the sheets of gelatine
in cold water to soften them. ■ Zest and
juice the lime. ■ Boil 100 ml (3.5 fl. oz.)
of water with the sugar and lime juice
for 5 minutes. Take off heat and add
the drained gelatine and grated zest.
(If you use agar, follow the instructions
on the packet). ■ Beat the egg whites until stiff. ■ Pour
three quarters of the boiling syrup over the egg whites
while whisking, then fold the fromage blanc into the mixture. ■ Divide the chopped nuts between 6 ramekins and
cover them with the fromage blanc mousse. ■ Pour the rest
of the lime syrup over them and place in the fridge for
4 hours. ■ Serve with a Volluto Grand Cru.
HANDY HINT You can cook the dulce de
leche in one hour if you
use a pressure cooker.
DISCOVER
MORE DELICIOUS RECIPES TO GO WITH YOUR
GRANDS CRUS
AT THE BACK OF THE
MAGAZINE.
VOLLUTO WITH FROMAGE BLANC,
LIME AND BRAZIL NUT MOUSSE
80
THE EXPERTS Portrait
LEOCARLOS MARQUES MUNDIM Farmer
WHEN NESPRESSO FIRST VISITED THE SECLUDED HILLTOPS OF
THE BRAZILIAN STATE OF MINAS GERAIS ON A QUEST TO FIND
THE REGION’S BEST COFFEE GROWERS, OUR TEAMS MET A TRULY
GIFTED FARMER. WITHIN A YEAR, HE HAD ALREADY DOUBLED THE
QUANTITY OF HIGH-QUALITY COFFEE HE COULD DELIVER AND WAS
ENCOURAGING HIS COLLEAGUES TO DO THE SAME. READ ON TO
DISCOVER THE PORTRAIT OF THIS TOP BEAN.
TOP OF
THE CROP
82
HAND-PICKED
On the Marques Mundim
family estate, everything about
the coffee-growing process is
selectively chosen, from the quality of
the irrigation pools to the waste system.
YOU HAVE TO FLY TO SÃO PAULO AND THEN CHANGE
AIRPORTS TO GO TO UBERLÂNDIA, A LARGE AGRICULTURAL
CITY WITH A NAME THAT SOUNDS LIKE A SUPERHERO, BUT
WHICH DOESN’T SEE MUCH MORE ACTION THAN A GAME OF
DRAUGHTS. IT SITS QUIETLY IN ITS PATCH OF MINAS GERAIS AT
THE POINT WHERE THIS STATE (SIX TIMES BIGGER THAN
PORTUGAL) MEETS THE MEANDERING PARANÁ RIVER.
Next, you need to find a taxi willing to take you to Monte
Carmelo, a sixty-mile journey rising through abstract
landscapes worthy of the French countryside. Then there’s
another hour of tracks, dishevelled sugar-cane bushes,
finely combed coffee fields in their straight lines and a few
zebus that are sometimes as large as a rhinoceros, before
you finally arrive in La Fazenda Boa Vista.
This is where Nespresso inaugurated a stewardship and
production model called the Nespresso AAA Sustainable
Quality™ Program seven years ago. It is more than just
a series of disparate standards: it is a model or rather
a set of principles that make sure everyone is a winner.
Nespresso purchases any coffee grown and processed in
this way – respecting the crop, the land and the workers – at
a fixed price above the going market rate. This improves
coffee quality without reducing the volume,
and the producers earn a living without
damaging the environment, as each farmer
can opt to receive consultancy services
from the Rainforest Alliance, which certifies
plantations that preserve biodiversity.
It all seems very simple at first view,
but simplistic it is not. Firstly, the agricultural
world works on a long cycle; it is a cyclical
universe characterised by eternal repetition.
So any attempt to impose top-down
change too abruptly or too directly can be
all too much in this culture of rotation. The
first time Paulo Barone met the region’s
producers, one character in the audience
particularly caught his attention: a farmer
who seemed interested in his presentation,
but who quickly expressed his doubts. A year later, the
programme’s Operations Manager found evidence to show
that this man, a certain Leocarlos Marques Mundim, had not
only been won over by his philosophy, but was also trying to
turn it into reality. Paulo says that this farmer quickly became
a spokesperson for the programme. “He has not been
afraid to share what he knows or to speak in public.
He has charisma, which gives him a natural authority among
his colleagues, whom he inspires as much as he inspires us.”
His story shows that he only really feels at home when
under pressure. When he and his four brothers each
inherited a share in their father’s property, Leocarlos
decided to consolidate the unity of the family by keeping
the estate together. He resigned from a job in the civil
service to manage the family land, pooling its resources
so that everyone could benefit. Leocarlos quickly
understood that increasing his volume of “AAA coffee”
would fill up their order book and protect them from the
instability of the market.
His experience in applying Nespresso standards soon
became an example for others to follow. In a country
where coffee-growing differs so much from one region
to another, you have to adapt your expectations to the
local situation. Leocarlos is a very
important contact to have in the huge
Cerrado savannah; he acts as a kind of
sounding board, helping to get the
programme off the ground. Nespresso
consulted him when producing the
good practice guide that was given
to each grower. His contribution was
priceless: he had developed extremely
rigorous drying procedures, specifying
the maximum thickness of the layer
of coffee beans and the need to turn
them over repeatedly, all with the aim
of producing a greater quantity of
Nespresso-quality coffee.
His methods mean that he can
produce one hundred 60 kg sacks per
hectare, as opposed to around 50 sacks for others in the
area, and the national average of 20. Regularly pruning the
coffee trees and using compost contribute to this
excellent yield. Since it rains very little on this high-altitude
plateau, Leocarlos has to find a way to make sure that the
humus is of an excellent quality. He uses natural products
to enrich it, so that it does not decompose in the sun.
Alongside his efforts in production, Leocarlos decided to
contribute to reforestation in accordance with the AAA
Program recommendations: 20% of his family estate is
covered with the original Cerrado savannah.
A competition was organised in the Cerrado in
2008, with a trip to the Swiss Alps for the producer
who could apply the most Nespresso-recommended
practices. Leocarlos won the event hands down. And
his determination to continue improving has only
increased since he returned. ■
Nespresso
consulted
Leocarlos when
producing the
good practice
guide that
was given to
each grower.
INTERVIEW 8 Questions for …
84
TOM
ZE
ALONG WITH CAETANO
VELOSO AND GILBERTO
GIL, THIS MULTI-
INSTRUMENTAL
MUSICIAN FOUNDED THE
TROPICÁLIA MOVEMENT.
BUT IT WASN’T UNTIL
THE LEAD SINGER OF
TALKING HEADS, DAVID
BYRNE, DECIDED HE
WAS “GREAT” THAT
HIS CAREER REALLY
TOOK OFF. ALTHOUGH
HE HAS BECOME TOM
“ZEE” FOR THE REST OF
THE WORLD, TOM ZÉ
HAS STAYED TRUE TO
HIMSELF.
Text Alex Solnik
1
HIS MUSIC
“My music isn’t part of
any genre – I’m not a
musician or a songwriter.
I am a misfit who somehow
got into the world of music.”
2
HIS GUITAR
“Most of the time I write
with my guitar, but not
always. Once, as I was about
to pick it up, my partner
Elton Medeiros said,
‘Leave the guitar, it might
get in your way.’”
3
HIS HORNS
“My homemade
instruments, like the
Enceroscópio made from
an old floor-polisher, an old
food processor and an old
vacuum cleaner, have
influenced the way I
compose. But I only use
horns these days. I create
new ones from recycled
PVC tubes based on the
principles of Medieval
hunting horns.”
4
HIS SOUNDS
“When Philip Glass
managed to captivate
his audience for an hour with
a musical genre that was
neither sonata nor the
contemporary music
promoted by Arnold
Schoenberg, my world
was turned upside down!
And I never listen to
popular music.”
5
HIS EASTERN LEANINGS
“I suffered from asthma
as a child and from
psychotic symptoms as a
youth. I only felt better when
I came to São Paulo and
discovered Chinese
medicine. São Paulo is
an Eastern city.”
6
7
HIS LITERARY HERO
“If a traditional singer
from the North-East
doesn’t know Knight
Roland’s love life back to
front – from “The Song of
Roland”, the oldest
surviving piece of French
literature – he should
reconsider his career path
immediately!”
8
HIS COFFEE
“It’s like a hard drug
for me. A wild drink.
I love drinking coffee.
But I have a sore head
the next day.” ■
HIS ROSES
“When I plant roses
in the garden of our
block of flats, I feel
detached from the city.
It brings me back to my
childhood, spent in the
dry Sertão region.”
TOM ZÉ IN 7 DATES
1936 Born in Sertão, Bahia state, Brazil.
1967 Created the Tropicália movement along
with Caetano Veloso and Gilberto Gil.
1978 Invented the Enceroscópio, an instrument made from
a floor-polisher (“enceradeira”), and the Horn-Blower.
1990 David Byrne produced and launched
“The Best of Tom Zé” in the USA.
1998 “Com Defeito de Fabricação”
(“Fabrication Defect”) is named one of the year’s
ten best albums by “The New York Times”.
2006 Awarded the Shell prize, a Brazilian
composers’ award, for his body of work.
2010 Awarded a São Paulo State Governor’s Award
in the Music category.
85
HISTORY An Extraordinary Story
86
BRAZIL WAS ORIGINALLY A PORTUGUESE ESTABLISHMENT
THAT IMPORTED SLAVES. THEN, THE DAWNING OF THE
BRAZILIAN EMPIRE SUCCESSFULLY BROKE THE BONDS
OF SLAVERY, FOLLOWED BY A COFFEE REPUBLIC THAT
ACHIEVED JUST AS MUCH BY PAYING ITS CITIZENS A WAGE.
THE CAFE COM LEITE
REPUBLIC
Text Julien Bouré
IT WAS THE DAWN OF THE 17TH CENTURY AND THE BEGINNINGS
OF PORTUGUESE BRAZIL SEEMED TO OFFER AN UNSPOILT
CONTINENT. AT THE TIME, ENTERING THE JUNGLE WITHOUT A
PENNANT WAS TANTAMOUNT TO WALKING NAKED THROUGH
THE STREETS and the São Paulo pioneers would often wear
billowing breeches, leather knee-high boots and jaunty felt
hats. But dashing though they may have been, these trailblazers were no more than bloodthirsty slave-traders who
carried out raids deep in the forest to flush out natives.
As they penetrated the heart of the country, they came
across gold. Lots of gold. Rivers and mountains of gold.
Slave-labour suppliers took the road to a brand new El
Dorado and free coffee-growers gradually began to replace
the sugar mills of São Paulo, leaving the mills of Pernambouc
and Bahia working flat-out on the north coast manned by a
later surge of slaves. Brazilian history seems to suggest that
agriculture was nearly always enslaved, but that coffee was
the first liberating industry to appear as
soon as it became clear that a free worker
was more productive than a slave, especially when it came to helping an industry
grow to fill an area the size of Europe.
In the 19th century, as European nations
worked towards abolishing the slave trade,
Brazil continued to import slaves from Africa
at a heightened pace as worldwide trade in
men and goods increased. When Napoleon
invaded the Iberian peninsula, King John VI
of Portugal took refuge in his South American colony. When he returned to Portugal,
he left his son in Brazil as prince regent, who
quickly proclaimed Brazil’s independence
and named himself as Emperor Pedro I.
To understand the fall of the monarchy, Brazil must be
understood as an inversion of the United States during the
Civil War. Here, beneath the Equator, the north was south
and the south was north. The north-east played the role of
the American Deep South: Salvador was New Orleans, the
Bahian samba could be heard instead of jazz, Jesse James
and the James Younger Gang were matched by the Brazlian
outlaw Lampião and his Cangaço band, and the Amazon
resembled the Mississippi, complete with paddle steamers.
North-eastern Brazil – colonial and dependent on slave
labour to prop up its sugar trade – now found itself at odds with
an enlightened monarchy that denounced the slave trade
and called for its abolition. When abolition finally came in
1888, the revolution followed just one year later, exactly one
century, four months and a day after the storming of the
Bastille in France. A conservative Republic was established,
but it operated much like a monarchy in disguise.
Very quickly, the prosperous businessmen of São
Paulo took power within the new regime, at the expense
of the Northerners who had risen to prominence by
force in the first place. The rich Southerners had been
divided along political lines for a long time, unsure
whether to take advantage of their influence over the
young, impressionable Republic, or
to separate themselves from the
petulant child who was just beginning to realise its unwieldy size. The
south-east was certainly the engine
room of the country and São Paulo
and Minas Gerais were the boilers
fuelling it. The former produced
coffee, which represented two
thirds of Brazilian exports at the
time, while the latter raised dairy
herds. This explains why the First
Brazilian Republic is remembered
as the “Café com Leite” (coffee with
milk) Republic, rather than for its
white sugar. Of the twelve presidents between 1894 and
the coup of 1930, five were from São Paulo and four
from Minas Gerais.
Freed slaves travelled down from the north-east
towards the economic powerhouse of Brazil and stimulated wealth as well as a tide of mainly Italian immigrants,
who were reassured by the end of forced labour. “Café
com Leite” policies did not have a black-and-white view
of the world: rather, they saw in a rich array of colours.
There was, however, one northern president, Epitácio
Lindolfo da Silva Pessoa, who legislated for segregation
of those descended from slaves, when in 1921 he banned
black players from being selected for the national football
team – one of the most foolish decrees to make it into
the Brazilian statute books. ■
Artwork: Mac Nooland
“Café com Leite”
policies did not
have a black-andwhite view of the
world: rather,
they saw in a rich
array of colours.
87
NESPRESSO Gastronomy
88
89
COOK IT
RAW
FOR TWO YEARS, NESPRESSO
HAS BEEN A PARTNER OF THIS
CUTTING-EDGE CULINARY
MOVEMENT THAT BLENDS
A TEAM-BASED PHILOSOPHY
WITH A RESPECT FOR
PRODUCTS AND THE PLANET.
FIND OUT MORE HERE.
TWO HEADS ARE BETTER THAN ONE
Alessandro Porcelli and Andrea Petrini
are the founders of “Cook It Raw”.
TEAMWORK
A BOUILLON FROM LAPLAND
Daniel Patterson deep in concentration
at the “Noma” restaurant in Copenhagen.
Created by Petter Nilsson and
Inaki Aizpitarte in Finland.
Text Stéphane Méjanès
Photography Per Anders Jorgensen,
Erik Refner and Bob Noto
“I CAN’T THINK OF ANY COMPARABLY-SIZED COMPANY THAT
WOULD HAVE TRUSTED US TO SUCH AN EXTENT.” Andrea Petrini,
a consultant, critic and one of the most influential people in
the culinary world, cannot praise his partnership with Nespresso enough. From the very beginning, Nespresso has supported the “Cook It Raw” movement that he founded along
with Alessandro Porcelli, an ambassador for
Nordic cuisine. This partnership is based on a
strong, shared conviction that something great
is happening. “The initial idea was very ambitious,” explains Alessandro Porcelli. “We wanted
to create an innovative, mould-breaking movement. There is nothing cosy about Cook It Raw!”
From the outset, the notion of “Raw” has
been given a wide definition. It implies “uncooked” but also a return to the essence of nature in its primal, untamed form. One of the
project’s main aims was to reduce the carbon
footprint of gastronomy by limiting the amount
of energy used in cooking and using local ingredients as far as possible. Inaki Aizpitarte, a
“Raw” implies
“uncooked” but
also a return
to the essence
of nature in
its primal,
untamed form.
MOTHER NATURE
“Cook It Raw” uses ingredients
as they are found in nature,
such as these herbs, lichens
and berries from Lapland.
French chef at “Le Chateaubriand”
in Paris and an early convert to the
idea, sums it up nicely as “zerokilometre cooking”.
CLOSE ENCOUNTERS WITH LAPLAND
After editions in Copenhagen
(Denmark, April 2009) and Collio
(Italy, January 2010), sixteen
chefs took part in the third stage
in Finnish Lapland in September
2010. A small hard-core group
made the trip, determined to pursue their common goal (see inset,
next page). The time they spent in
the Levi region, north of the Arctic
Circle, marked a turning point in the adventure for all
those involved. This time the tagline was “Into the Wild”.
The adventure culminated in a feast beneath the Northern
Lights, during which the chefs conjured up original dishes
from the raw ingredients they had gathered, fished for or
even hunted.
•••
90
91
40-SECOND BISCUIT
Biscuit made from pine oil and flower
sorbet, created by the artist Albert Adrià.
CUP OF TEA, LAPLAND STYLE
ITALIAN INSPIRATION
A winter warmer after fishing
in a glacial lake in Finland.
Claude Bosi and David Chang
enjoy a laugh in Collio (Frioul).
CHEFS FROM AROUND
THE WORLD
“Normally, these
chefs compete
with one
another. But
in this context,
they can
work together
as a group.”
The other challenge was to cook in teams of
twos or threes, or more if ideas were along the
same lines. And it was this collective effort that
really inspired people. “The further we go, the
more we realise that the most important thing is
friendship and ideas sparked between chefs,”
emphasises Alessandro Porcelli. “This is more
than just a cooking event. All these chefs have
fiery personalities. Normally, they compete with
one another. But in this context, they can work
together as a group. Their aim is simply to get
together and see what it results in.” “If they
change the format, I’d stop coming,” warns Inaki Aizpitarte, with a broad smile. “The teamwork is the most exciting part. You have to get
down off your pedestal and start from scratch.
You can’t make all the decisions yourself; you
have to respect others’ opinions, get out of the kitchen and
take risks.”
THE ADVENTURE CONTINUES IN 2011
The Basque genius is looking forward to the fourth stage,
which might take place in Japan at the end of 2011. “Everyone knows a little about Japanese cooking,” he explains. “It
has influenced us a lot. But you have to go there to truly understand its essence. I can’t wait to immerse myself in the
culture.” The future of cooking is taking shape. ■
Sixteen chefs came together for “Cook It Raw”
in Lapland: Albert Adrià (former pastry chef
at the 3 Michelin-starred “El Bulli” in Roses,
Spain, ranked 2nd by “S. Pellegrino World’s
50 Best Restaurants 2010”), Inaki Aizpitarte
(“Le Chateaubriand” in Paris, ranked 11th
by “50 Best”), Fredrik Andersson
(1 Michelin-starred “Mistral” in Stockholm),
Alex Atala (“D.O.M”. in São Paolo, ranked
18th by “50 Best”), Pascal Barbot
(3 Michelin-starred “L’Astrance” in Paris,
ranked 16th by “50 Best”), Claude Bosi
(2 Michelin-starred “Hibiscus” in London,
ranked 49th by “50 Best”), Massimo Bottura
(2 Michelin-starred “La Francescan” in
Modena ranked 16th by “50 Best”), David
Chang (2 Michelin-starred “Momofuku”
in New York, ranked 26th by “50 Best”),
Quique Dacosta (2 Michelin-starred “Denia”
in Spain), Yoshihiro Narisawa (1 Michelinstarred “Les Créations de Narisawa” in Tokyo,
ranked 24th by “50 Best”), Magnus Nilsson
(“Fäviken” in Sweden), Petter Nilsson
(“La Gazzetta” in Paris), Daniel Patterson
(2 Michelin-starred “Coï” in San Francisco),
René Redzepi (2 Michelin-starred “Noma”
in Copenhagen, ranked 1st by “50 Best”),
Davide Scabin (2 Michelin-starred
“Combal.zero” in, Turin, ranked 35th by
“50 Best”), Hans Välimäki (2 Michelinstarred “Chez Dominique” in Helsinki,
Finland, ranked 23rd by “50 Best”).
IMPROVISING
Wood-smoked beetroot with herbs
and berries from Lapland.
NESPRESSO Discovery
92
THREE DAYS
WITH GEORGE
MILAN, AUGUST 2010. HIGH FIVE! ON THE SET OF THE FIFTH
NESPRESSO ADVERTISING CAMPAIGN, GEORGE CLOONEY AND
GUILLAUME LE CUNFF, INTERNATIONAL MARKETING DIRECTOR
AT NESPRESSO IN CHARGE OF SUSTAINABILITY, FINALLY TIED UP
THE DETAILS FOR A TRIP TO MEET FARMERS GROWING NESPRESSO COFFEE, as part of the AAA Sustainable Quality™ Program,
which has now been running for seven years. “George is
known for supporting important causes around the world,”
explains Guillaume Le Cunff. “He has always been very
interested in sustainable development, so we thought it
was important to take him out to see what we are
doing on the ground and let him make up his
own mind.”
COSTA RICA, NOVEMBER 2010
Coffee-picking and a tasting
session with Alexis Rodriguez,
Nespresso Coffee Expert:
two highlights of this
eye-opening trip.
Photography Jimmy Mettier
An immersive
trip to visit
farmers and form
a personal
opinion about the
AAA Program.
With his hands in the pockets of his creased
trousers, George Clooney ambles across a playing
field, a scarf tied around his neck above his
explorer’s gilet. His eyes dart about expectantly
from under his trademark salt-and-pepper hair
as dozens of people, young and old, stream out
from a church. They are heading firmly in his
direction. As the crowd approaches, he readies
himself calmly, with the relaxed bearing of a man
who is used to being spotted, eagerly greeted and pestered for
autographs. But the people flock unconcernedly past him to
join the hordes gathering behind him. A broad smile breaks out
and he winks knowingly at his travel companions. It’s the first
time for a long while that he has been able to enjoy the luxury
of anonymity.
COMMITMENT YOU CAN TASTE
IN NOVEMBER 2010, GEORGE
CLOONEY TOOK A TRIP TO COSTA
RICA WITH NESPRESSO TO SEE THE
NESPRESSO
AAA SUSTAINABLE
QUALITYTM PROGRAM IN ACTION
FOR HIMSELF. THIS PROGRAM AIMS
TO PRODUCE EXCEPTIONAL COFFEE,
SUPPORT COFFEE- GROWERS AND
PROTECT THE ENVIRONMENT.
FAR FROM HOLLYWOOD
Away from the spotlight,
George Clooney and his team
are about to experience three
days of authentic immersion
in the life of a coffee-grower.
They will be staying with local
people, travelling sometimes for
hours on makeshift roads, as
the Nespresso Experts regularly
do, and living at the pace of the
farmers. It’s a challenge that the
American actor and director is
taking to eagerly. “I’m sure I am not alone in being impressed
by how George uses his fame to promote the causes
he believes in,” comments Jérôme Perez, Manager of the
Nespresso Ecolaboration™ Program. “I really appreciate
the way he wanted to find out more about our commitment
and contributed his own free time to make the trip, without
asking any more than to see the true story, the way things
really are.”
The first day was spent looking at the actual process of
coffee-growing. The heavens opened as the group took
part in cherry-picking – only to be expected in the rainy
season! “George seemed really at home,” remembers Paulo
Barone, Manager of Operations for the AAA Program. •••
93
94
95
IN-DEPTH DISCUSSIONS
With Chris Willie, Head of Sustainable Farming
for the Rainforest Alliance.
COFFEE PLANTATIONS IN COSTA RICA
A familiar landscape of farmers
committed to growing high-quality coffee.
WORKING TOWARDS QUALITY
This is the ultimate aim of the
projects run by the AAA Program.
GOOD LISTENER
“He picked tobacco as a youngster growing up in
Kentucky. He knows first-hand about working the land.” The
group later headed for the sorting area, where
quality-control operations take place. These
checks are vital for producing the highest
quality coffee. Next stop was another
hacienda, where the visitors met a family of
seven brothers and sisters who have been
AAA Program partners for many years and
have worked on the same farm for generations. Under the watchful gaze of ancestors,
whose pictures adorned the walls, the meeting was a particularly poignant moment and
the group paid close attention to what the
family told them. “The AAA Program is a very
complex project,” explains Paulo Barone.
“We didn’t want to bewilder George with
details; the aim was to show him real-life
examples and to strike the right balance so that he could
understand what it’s all about.” For instance, one challenge
for coffee-growers is the fact that it takes three years for
a coffee tree to become fully productive. This represents a
major loss of earnings for growers, who also have to replace
their trees every twenty years. A seedling nursery has
George Clooney and the Nespresso
team listen to a farmer and his
daughter talking about environmentally
responsible, high-quality agriculture.
Thanks to the
seeding nursery,
growers can
replant coffee
trees as soon as
they have uprooted
their old ones.
therefore been set up and is
managed by ECOM, one of
Nespresso’s major partners in
Central America, to help farmers
remain constantly profitable. The
coffee trees can therefore be
replaced as soon as they are
pulled up. Ensuring farmers have
good net earnings is a key part
of the Program.
EXPERT ENCOUNTERS
The second day of the trip saw
the group take an excursion to a
riverside farm nestling in the heart of
the countryside, where no pesticides are used. Wading
in the water in this pristine natural environment, George
enjoyed a lengthy chat about nature and biodiversity
with Chris Willie, Head of Sustainable Agriculture for the
Rainforest Alliance, Nespresso’s long-time partner. The
group then headed to the processing centre, where the
coffee beans are extracted from the cherries
and dried. The highlight of the day was the
first encounter between George Clooney and
Alexis Rodriguez, Coffee Expert at Nespresso.
BACK TO SCHOOL
Fun and
relaxation, but
with a serious
purpose: this
adventure
is likely to
have a sequel.
The third and final day of the trip involved a
visit to INCAE, the best Business School in
Latin America, with whom Nespresso has
been working to understand the economic
and social impacts of the AAA Program.
George Clooney joined the students in a
lecture room, listening to the presentation
and asking questions. “I wasreally impressed
by his attitude and modesty,” recalls Dean
Sanders, Founder of GoodBrand & Co, which has been
providing Nespresso with support and advice on
sustainability for more than ten years now. “And he has a
great sense of humour. When I asked him to come to the
front to speak to the students, hoping he wouldn’t be
embarrassed, he got up and had everyone in fits of laughter
by pretending to be petrified
by the spotlights.” George’s wellknown ability to switch between
fun and seriousness on film sets
was once again brought to the
fore in this much more intimate
setting. “Every evening, we sat
down to dinner together and
chatted about the experiences
we’d enjoyed during the day,”
says Guillaume Le Cunff. “Everyone was in a happy, relaxed mood.
And George was able to slip
seamlessly from humour to
serious discussions in his own
smooth way.” After this extremely constructive 3-day
trip, George Clooney undoubtedly came away strongly
convinced of the seriousness and authenticity of
Nespresso’s approach. Such a wonderful adventure is
undoubtedly poised for a sequel in the future. ■
NESPRESSO Commitment
96
ALL THERE IS TO KNOW ABOUT
ECOLABORATION
TM
ECOLABORATIONTM IS NESPRESSO’S COMMITMENT TO ESTABLISHING A WAY OF WORKING
TOWARDS SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT WITH ITS SKILLED AND ENTHUSIASTIC PARTNERS.
THIS IS AN AMBITIOUS, WORLDWIDE PROJECT BASED ON THREE MAIN AREAS. READ ON
FOR MORE DETAILS.
COFFEE
PRESERVING A PRECIOUS RESOURCE:
OUR EXCEPTIONAL COFFEES
For more than 7 years, this commitment
has taken the form of the Nespresso
AAA Sustainable Quality™ Program,
led in collaboration with the Rainforest
Alliance. The aim is to source 80%
of our coffee from the AAA Program,
including Rainforest Alliance
certification, by 2013. The AAA Program
works to safeguard the future of
exceptional coffees, ensure farmers
have enough income to live on and
protect the environment through
responsible coffee-growing practices.
“Growers benefit from professional
technical advice, training and financial
support,” explains Juan Diego Román,
Head of the Green Coffee Project in
Central America. “First and foremost,
Nespresso is making a long-term
commitment to farmers. When growers
sign up to the Program, they already
benefit from a better price for their
coffee,” adds Jérôme Perez,
Ecolaboration™ Manager. “But that in
itself is not enough. We work together
to improve productivity methods and to
continue producing top-quality coffee,
all the while protecting the natural
environment.” “It’s not enough to focus
on the price of coffee alone,” agrees
Lawrence Pratt, a lecturer at INCAE, the
most prestigious business school in
Latin America. “Quality, productivity,
and the management of farms and costs
are just as important.” All these efforts
are beneficial for the environment too.
“In our experience, a well-managed,
tree-shaded plantation that meets the
criteria set out for the AAA Program or
sustainable farming is very similar to a
natural forest,” explains Chris Willie,
Head of Sustainable Agriculture for the
Rainforest Alliance. The results of these
initiatives can now be seen every day.
By late 2010, around 40,000 growers
had signed up and 60% of our coffee
was sourced through the Program.
chain to ensure that responsible
practices are implemented
throughout the production and
refining stages. The second is to set
up efficient capsule-collection
schemes. In working towards this
second goal, Nespresso is creating
collection schemes tailored to each
specific country. By 2010, thirteen
CAPSULES
ALUMINIUM: QUALITY, RECYCLING
AND RESPONSIBILITY
There’s a good reason why our
capsules are made from aluminium.
Not only is it the ideal material for
sealing in the aromas of our Grands
Crus, but it can also be recycled
indefinitely without any loss of quality.
Nespresso has been running
collection systems for used capsules
since 1991 in Switzerland and 1993 in
Germany. The AluCycle™ initiative
has been taking our commitment
further since 2009. This initiative has
two major objectives. The first is to
work in partnership with all those
involved in the aluminium value
countries already had recycling
schemes in place(1). In some cases,
the scheme operates nationwide;
in others, it only operates in
those cities that have Nespresso
Boutiques(2). The aim for 2011 is
to extend the scheme to cover
twenty-three countries(3) in total.
Today, in certain countries, Nespresso
is even able to recuperate coffee
grounds from collected capsules
and reuse them as a natural fertiliser.
Nespresso is committed to tripling its
capacity for collecting used capsules
by 2013, bringing the rate up to 75%.
In addition, the recycling of
aluminum uses very little energy
and releases 95% less carbon
dioxide than when producing new
aluminum from ore. That’s a lot
of reasons to start – and continue
– recycling our capsules!
CARBON
FOOTPRINT
OPTIMISING THE ENVIRONMENTAL
IMPACT OF EVERY CUP OF COFFEE
Since 2005, Nespresso has been
implementing a scientific method
known as “life cycle assessment” to
optimise its environmental impact
from the coffee cherry to the cup.
Its priority is to reduce carbon
emissions by 20% by 2013. To achieve
this, Nespresso has invested in each
stage of production, from coffeegrowing through to the design and
use of our coffee machines. Once
again, this is where the brand’s close
collaboration with committed and
experienced partners really pays off.
On the coffee farms, Nespresso works
in partnership with the Rainforest
Alliance to further the environmental
aims of the AAA Program. For
example, new practices are being
introduced in 2011 to reduce the
carbon footprint and support growers
as they adapt to climate change.
Elsewhere, the Nespresso R&D team
are also playing a part, alongside
machine designers, manufacturers
and sustainable-development
experts. The aim is to improve the
performance of the current range
of Nespresso machines in terms
of energy (lower carbon emissions)
and use of recycled materials. The
results are clear: PIXIE, the latest
coffee machine, packs a punch
in terms of technology and
performance, and proudly uses
40% less energy than other models
on the market. ■
(1) Switzerland, France, Spain, Portugal,
Austria, United Kingdom, USA, Brazil, Belgium,
Netherlands, Luxemburg, Canada, Australia.
(2) USA, Canada, Australia, Brazil, United
Kingdom. (3) including Hungary, Czech
Republic, Poland, Hong Kong, South Korea,
Italy, Norway, Denmark, Singapore, Ireland.
97
NESPRESSO Partner
98
PROJECT MANAGER
EDUARDO TREVISAN TELLS US
ABOUT THE MISSION OF
IMAFLORA, A BRAZILIAN NGO
SPECIALISING IN BIODIVERSITY
THAT WORKS WITH THE
RAINFOREST ALLIANCE AS
PART OF THE NESPRESSO AAA
SUSTAINABLE QUALITYTM
PROGRAM.
EDUARDO
TREVISAN
THOSE WHO VISIT IMAFLORA LEAVE WITH THE IMPRESSION OF A
VERDANT OASIS IN THE MIDST OF THE ANONYMOUS CONCRETE
DESERT OF SÃO PAULO’S OUTER SUBURBS. This little house and
garden, which recycles all its rain water, is a log chalet made
from certified timber, a sustainable material that is rot-proof
and very solid but unusual in a country used to bricks. “We
combat deforestation by targeting trees that can be cut down
without damaging forests. In general, we encourage industry
to make itself accountable for the way in which it affects
people and the environment,” states Eduardo Trevisan,
Manager of the Brazilian NGO.
A CONSCIENTIOUS
SUPPORTER
HOW DO YOU WORK WITH NESPRESSO?
EDUARDO TREVISAN. We are helping them to anchor the
environmental, socio-economic and quality standards of the
AAA Program in Brazil over the long term. But since quality
is rarely an issue in this country of experienced coffee-growers,
our attention is particularly focused on issues surrounding the
safety of farm workers or the protection of water and forests.
The programme relies on the motivation of the producers.
In general, it takes between two and three years for them to
incorporate it into their way of working. The investment is
not so much financial as personal, because it involves a lot
of small changes. But these efforts
are rewarded by undeniable financial
benefits.
IMAFLORA IS ALSO A PARTNER
OF THE RAINFOREST ALLIANCE…
E. T. For over five years, Brazilian
EXOTIC TIMBER.
The Imaflora head office is a chalet
in the heart of Brazil.
“We are helping
Nespresso to
understand
the different
conditions in
each local area.”
producers working with the AAA
Program have been able to have
their farm certified by the Rainforest
Alliance if their operations meet the
organisation’s criteria. One of our
roles is to familiarise coffee-growers
with ecologically viable practices. It’s not an overnight job, but
we’re moving forwards at a realistic pace. Our work is more
about monitoring rather than completing a mission. We are
a sort of watchdog.
WHAT IS THE CONNECTION
BETWEEN COFFEE QUALITY AND
THE AAA PROGRAM?
E. T. Top-quality coffee is a commodity
that is still too rare to fully satisfy
global demand, which is becoming
more and more exacting. We applaud
the clear-sightedness of a programme
that supports farmers in the long
term as they aim for quality. It’s
a programme that acknowledges
their coffee-growing heritage and
encourages them to develop it further. What’s more, no one
can hope to produce good coffee for long without thinking
about its environmental impact, especially since many
coffee-lovers are prepared to pay a fair price to ensure that
they are not contributing to the destruction of ecosystems
or human lives.
HOW CAN PRODUCTION STANDARDS
BE APPLIED TO COFFEE-GROWING SITUATIONS
AS DIVERSE AS THOSE IN BRAZIL?
E. T. Nespresso is working with a small local NGO like ours
rather than a large international agency because of our
on-the-ground experience. Our expertise enables Nespresso
to adapt its approach to each regional situation. For example,
some standards recommend that coffee trees should grow in
the shade rather than in open fields. In Colombia, which is
close to the equator, the sunlight is very intense and it is
better to provide coffee trees with shade, especially since the
volcanic earth there is very fertile and helps the trees grow
well. However, in the Cerrado (see “The Experts” section),
the soil is much older and poorer. Indigenous shrubs
are naturally short and thus cannot provide shade for
coffee trees. The sunlight is weaker there anyway and we
believe that it is better to maintain areas of local biodiversity typical of the savannah land in the region, which
can be used by fauna of all kinds, rather than planting
imported species. However, in the Vale da Grama (see
“Grands Crus” section), where plots are very hilly, it is a
good idea to plant trees among the coffee trees, not for
their shade, but because their roots hold the soil together,
preventing erosion.
WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS OF WORKING WITH NESPRESSO?
E. T. Well, we have a much deeper impact through this
kind of teamwork than we would if we were working on
our own. ■
99
NESPRESSO Innovation
100
NEW ENERGY
SOURCES
THE AVENCHES PRODUCTION CENTRE
IS A TECHNOLOGICAL GEM DEDICATED
TO EXCEPTIONAL COFFEE. BUT IT
IS ALSO WHERE NESPRESSO’S REAL
COMMITMENT TO SUSTAINABLE
DEVELOPMENT CAN BE SEEN.
WELCOME TO AVENCHES, IN THE VAUD CANTON OF SWITZERLAND. THIS IS WHERE THE SECOND NESPRESSO PRODUCTION
PLANT, WHICH OPENED IN 2009, IS LOCATED. The existing site in
Orbe, several dozen kilometres to the West, could no longer
meet all of Nespresso’s needs. By moving to Avenches, the
company plumped for local continuity to ensure the transfer of
skills between the two plants. Social responsibility was also a
major part of the project. For example, Nespresso contributed
to the cost of building a crèche and regular reports assess the
well-being of employees. The building itself underwent an
in-depth architectural study concerning the choice of materials
in an attempt to optimise insulation and minimise the use of
air-conditioning. This was achieved through careful design and
the implementation of the “free-cooling” process, which
reduces energy needs and limits the need for air-conditioning.
In operational terms, nearly 7,300 m3 of rainwater (the equivalent of 2½ Olympic swimming pools) has
already been collected on the 19,000 m2 roof.
This water is used in the toilets, hybrid cooling
towers, outside taps (particularly to water
garden areas) and to rinse pipes. In terms of
transport, travel between Avenches and Orbe
is mainly by train.
WHAT GOES
ON IN AVENCHES?
Every day, Nespresso
Experts check the
quality of the green
coffee brought by train.
The beans are then sent
to silos before roasting.
The coffee is later
portioned into capsules,
sorted into boxes,
stocked in warehouses
and finally shipped.
Laurent Gilliéron/Keystone.
ENVIRONMENTAL COMMITMENT
helps heat the buildings. Across the site, the surplus energy
generated is shared with a local business, which itself
specialises in energy production. The beans are then watercooled to halt the roasting process and transferred back to
the silos – by forced draught – to be milled in one of the
twelve production lines. The coffee is then packaged in
capsules in a fraction of a second. Next, the capsules are
slotted into their packs and placed in
specially designed boxes ready to be
sent directly to customers or to be
displayed in Boutiques. That’s what
you call attention to detail!
Here,
innovative
energyrecovery
technology has
been installed.
140 tonnes of green coffee arrive at
Avenches every day thanks to a special line
branched off the SBB (Swiss Federal Railways)
network. Storage and transport conditions are
very strict. When the goods arrive, a quality
test is carried out by taking test samples. The
bags are automatically opened, their contents emptied and
transferred to the storage silos. The beans’ journey is still
not finished at this stage: their fate lies in the hands of the
Nespresso Coffee Experts. The beans that pass the test are
then roasted according to their variety and the Grand Cru they
are destined to become. Heat for the roasting process is provided by natural gas. To reduce the environmental impact, innovative energy-recovery technology has been installed. Each
roaster makes energy savings of 15%, which equals the annual
energy consumption of ninety households! This process also
A VIRTUOUS CYCLE
Finally, conveyor belts transfer the
boxes to the warehouse, where they
are stored until delivery. The warehouse temperature is kept between
16°C and 20°C by means of a natural
ventilation system, which is optimised
according to the seasons. If it gets too
hot, vents open automatically. The
coffee can be stored for up to one year in these conditions,
but only stays in the warehouse for one or two weeks.
Nespresso stands by its firm shipping commitment, which
stays the same wherever you are in the world: deliveries
are carried out by train, boat or even road as far as
possible, and only by plane when absolutely necessary.
The virtuous cycle finishes in the cup to the delight of all
Nespresso Club members. ■
101
NESPRESSO News
102
NEWS
IN
BRIEF
N
,
TOP OF THE FROTH
ESPRESSO KEEPS MAKING HEADLINES WHETHER IT’S ON THE RED CARPET,
LAUNCHING A PROFESSIONAL MACHINE OR AN ALL-NEW AEROCCINO,
OR WORKING WITH A THREE-MICHELIN-STARRED CHEF.
Lovers of cappuccino or
macchiato are now spoilt for
choice! The classic stainless
steel Aeroccino3 range has now
been joined by an exciting new
model in three glossy colours.
A clever niche in the base
stores the two whisks so they are
always on hand when needed.
One can be used to froth hot or
cold milk, and the other heats
milk. With this new design, you
can enjoy a perfect froth in all
your milk-based beverages. The
only difficult part is choosing
the colour!
automatic rinsing system
and a daily semi-automatic
cleaning cycle. The most
high-tech feature of Aguila
is a SIM card* that allows
Nespresso to check the
machine’s status in real-time
and proactively offer to
service it if required. All this
technology seeks to provide
a rich and varied taste
experience. Twelve different
beverages are available at
the touch of a button. This
is definitely headline news
for businesses and their
discerning customers, who
are looking to enjoy an
exceptional Nespresso
Grand Cru.
> For more information, visit
www.nespresso.com
CHRISTIAN LE SQUER IN ACTION DURING
THE NESPRESSO CREATIVE WORKSHOP
AT THE 2011 BOCUSE D’OR.
CHRISTIAN LE SQUER
“FINE CUISINE IS LIKE HAUTE COUTURE”
find a balance between black pudding’s
MEET THE HEAD CHEF OF
distinctive taste, the acidity of passion fruit
THE 3 MICHELIN-STARRED
and the flavour of an Espresso Leggero
“LEDOYEN” RESTAURANT
Grand Cru, which is also very fruity.
IN PARIS, WHO HAS BEEN A
The result offered quite a kick and a
NESPRESSO PARTNER FOR
slight bitterness that was very pleasing
to the palate. Black pudding is a
THE LAST FIVE YEARS.
* Subject to conditions.
AGUILA, EXCELLENCE ON A GRAND SCALE
restaurants and bars. In
the blink of an eye, it can
deliver a large number of
coffees and exceptional
recipes, and the results are
consistent cup after cup –
true to its Nespresso label.
This machine’s speciality
is coffee recipes using cold
and hot milk, and its launch
is a cause for celebration
for fans of the luxurious
froth of a latte macchiato
or the refreshingly silky
texture of a lattino. Aguila is
equipped to deal with large
volumes and times of peak
demand, with four dispenser
heads, a large refrigerated
compartment for cold milk,
an efficient cup heater, and
a large recipient for used
capsules. It also has the
latest, innovative technology,
such as an energy-saving
mode (saving up to 50%
after 30 minutes of inactivity
and 95% after that), an
NESPRESSO AT THE FESTIVAL DE CANNES
In May 2011, for the fourth year
running, Nespresso was an Official
Partner of the Festival de Cannes.
This year, the President of the Jury
was actor and director Robert de Niro.
Once again, Nespresso was present
in all the prestigious locations − the
Palais des Festivals, Palm Beach and
the Hôtel Majestic beach. The magical
atmosphere was enjoyed by the five
winning couples of the competition
organised at the time of the last
Nespresso advertising campaign. Read all
about their experience in the next issue.
traditional product, but we dared
to give it a modern twist.
WHY DO YOU SERVE NESPRESSO GRANDS
CRUS IN YOUR RESTAURANT?
All rights reserved – Gettyimages – Nespresso/Vittorio Bergamaschi.
In the world of professional
coffee machines, the launch
of a new model is always a
major event. All the more so
for the new Aguila machine,
which combines Nespresso’s
expertise with that of Swiss
company Thermoplan AG,
which is known for its
professional machines that
offer advanced solutions for
milk-based beverages. The
Aguila is designed for
prestigious hotels,
In the past, the machines we used tended to
burn the coffee. The results were
inconsistent. The professional range of
Grands Crus from Nespresso guarantees the
same quality, cup after cup. I have the same
attitude towards food. I like it to be “just so”
every time.
FOLLOWING THIS DINNER, YOU LED THE
NESPRESSO CREATIVE WORKSHOP IN THE
FINAL OF THE 2011 BOCUSE D’OR IN LYONS...
IN JANUARY, YOU INVITED FIVE RENOWNED
CHEFS FOR A MEAL AT “LEDOYEN”, DURING
WHICH YOU INCORPORATED COFFEE INTO
YOUR RECIPES...
It was a great experience. I was very proud
to be chosen by Nespresso and I came up
with four dishes for the event: three savoury
and one sweet. These dishes reflect
something of who I am. We offered them to
the audience. It allowed for a meeting of
minds and exchanges with people who may
have different methods. Fine cuisine is a bit
like haute couture − it doesn’t necessarily
appeal to everyone.
I was very pleased that Nespresso suggested
it. We undertook some interesting research
and created delicious yet surprising recipes
incorporating coffee.
CHEFS FROM NORTHERN EUROPE WON
THE BOCUSE D’OR. WHAT DO YOU THINK OF
NEW NORDIC CUISINE?
WHY DID YOU CHOOSE TO COOK BLACK
PUDDING THAT EVENING?
It was like a sort of challenge. I wanted to
It can teach us things about nature
and simplicity that echo our current
environmental concerns. It’s exactly
what people are looking for today. ■
IF YOU PREFER TO READ
THE NESPRESSO MAGAZINE
ONLINE, YOU CAN CANCEL
YOUR SUBSCRIPTION TO THE
PRINTED EDITION.
LET US KNOW BY VISITING
WWW.NESPRESSO.COM/
MAGAZINE/FORMAT/
103
The Machines&
NESPRESSO The Selection
Les Collections PIXIE. A complete range of accessories, including a collection of cups in two
sizes inspired by our Espresso (12 shades) and Lungo (4 shades) Grands Crus.
Les Collections
COLOURFUL, INTUITIVE AND SUSTAINABLY DEVELOPED, THE NEW PIXIE HAS ALL
THE MAKINGS OF AN ICONIC MACHINE. AS DOES ITS “LES COLLECTIONS”
ACCESSORY RANGE, DEVELOPED IN LINE WITH YOUR GRANDS CRUS.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
PIXIE Wall, Espresso Blends
Aluminum sleeve dispenser for Espresso
Blend* Grands Crus, with a stand for wall
fixture. Capacity: 9 sleeves / 90 capsules
(sold without capsules). Dimensions:
12.2 x 15.2 x 1.8 in/31 x 38.5 x 4.5 cm.
Ref. 3613. *Blends of several origins.
PIXIE Espresso Set of 2 double-walled Espresso cups (2.7 oz/80 ml) in stainless steel matching
the colours of each of our Espresso Grands Crus, with 2 stirrers (4.9 in/12.5 cm) in stainless steel.
ELECTRIC RED
ELECTRIC INDIGO
ELECTRIC TITAN
ELECTRIC STEEL BLUE
ELECTRIC LIME
ELECTRIC ALUMINUM
FIND MORE DETAILS ON THE MACHINES AND LES COLLECTIONS AND PLACE YOUR ORDER ONLINE AT www.nespresso.com
Actual products may differ from the photographs. Nespresso reserves the right to alter its products and prices without notice.
104
1. Pixie Espresso, Volluto
- Ref. 3610-VO/2
2. Pixie Espresso, Cosi
- Ref. 3610-CO/2
3. Pixie Espresso, Arpeggio
- Ref. 3610-AR/2
4. Pixie Espresso, Ristretto
- Ref. 3610-RI/2
5. Pixie Espresso, Decaffeinato
Intenso - Ref. 3610-DI/2
6. Pixie Espresso, Capriccio
- Ref. 3610-CA/2
7. Pixie Espresso, Rosabaya
de Colombia - Ref. 3610-RB/2
8. Pixie Espresso, Indriya
from India - Ref. 3610-IN/2
2
1
PIXIE Lungo Set of 2 double-walled Lungo cups
(5.4 oz/160 ml) in stainless steel, matching the
colours of each of our Lungo Grands Crus, with 2
stirrers (4.9 in/12.5 cm) in stainless steel.
9. Pixie Espresso, Decaffeinato
- Ref. 3610-DE/2
10. Pixie Espresso, Livanto
- Ref. 3610-LI/2
11. Pixie Espresso, Dulsão
do Brasil - Ref. 3610-DU/2
12. Pixie Espresso, Roma
- Ref. 3610-RM/2
3
PIXIE Wall, Special Varieties
Aluminum sleeve dispenser for Lungo and
Espresso Pure Origin Grands Crus, with 2
neutral sleeves for additional storage and a
stand for wall fixture. Capacity: 9 sleeves /
90 capsules (sold without capsules).
Dimensions: 12.2 x 15.2 x 1.8 in/
31 x 38.5 x 4.5 cm. Ref. 3614
4
1. Pixie Lungo, Fortissio - Ref. 3611-FT/2
2. Pixie Lungo, Decaffeinato - Ref. 3611-DE/2
3. Pixie Lungo, Vivalto - Ref. 3611-VI/2
4. Pixie Lungo, Finezzo - Ref. 3611-FZ/2
PIXIE Tray, Large
Tray in white oak (12.6 x 12.6 x
1.1 in/32 x 32 x 2.8 cm) with
black melamine interior.
Ref. 3612
PIXIE Carrier, Black
Black machine carrier with metallic
base. Holds one Pixie machine.
Dimensions : 9.8 x 13.2 x 5.4 in/
24.9 x 33.5 x 13.6cm. Ref. 3617
PIXIE Target
Aluminum wall
capsule dispenser
(15.7 in/40 cm).
Capacity: 70 capsules
(sold without
capsules). Ref. 3616
PIXIE Sleeve, Basic
Aluminum sleeve
dispenser for tabletop use.
Capacity: 4 sleeves /
40 capsules (sold without
capsules). Dimensions :
12.2 x 3.3 x 3.3 in/
31 x 8.5 x 8.5 cm.
Ref. 3615
IT IS POSSIBLE THAT SOME OF THE MODELS SHOWN HERE MAY NOT BE AVAILABLE IN YOUR COUNTRY.
105
106
COFFEE MARK Vik Muniz
NESPRESSO Addresses
SERVICE 24/7
CLUBS & BOUTIQUES
NESPRESSO IS PRESENT ON EVERY CONTINENT AND
IN MORE THAN 40 COUNTRIES AROUND THE WORLD.
DIRECTORY OF THE CLUBS AND BOUTIQUES.*
SINGAPORE
Toll-Free : 800 852 3525
Singapore.
SOUTH AFRICA
Toll-Free : 0800 63777 3776
Cape Town.
SPAIN
ANDORRA
CYPRUS
HUNGARY
LUXEMBOURG
Toll-Free : 1 800 0259
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Toll-Free : 80002223
Nicosia.
Toll-Free : 8002 26 33
Luxembourg.
ARGENTINA
CZECH REPUBLIC
Toll-Free : 06 80 CLUB 80
(06 80 2582 80)
Budapest.
Toll-Free : 0800 999 0392
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Toll-Free :
0800 COFFEE (26 33 33)
Praha 1.
IRELAND
MEXICO
Toll-Free : 900 259 259
Alicante, Barcelona,
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La Coruña, Madrid,
Murcia, Oviedo, Palma,
San Sebastian,
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Toll-Free : 01 800 999 75 75
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SWEDEN
Toll-Free : 1800 623 033
Brisbane, Melbourne,
Perth, Sydney.
DENMARK
ISRAEL
Toll-Free : 80 909 600
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Toll-Free : 1 800 255 355
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AUSTRIA EGYPT
ITALY
Toll-Free : 0800 216 251
Graz, Linz, Salzburg,
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Tel. : 22 668 032
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BELGIUM
Toll-Free : 0800 55 52 53
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Toll-Free : 800 39 20 29
Bari, Bergamo,
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AUSTRALIA
Toll-Free : 0800 162 64
Antwerp, Brussels,
Liège.
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Toll-Free : 0800 7777 737
Brasilia, Campinas, Rio
de Janeiro, São Paulo.
CANADA
Toll-Free : 1 800 562 1465
Montreal, Toronto,
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CHINA
Toll-Free :
108 0065 00 515
(China NetCom) 108 0026 50 532
(China TeleCom)
Beijing, Chengdu,
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FRANCE
GERMANY
Toll-Free : 0800 18 18 444
Berlin, Düsseldorf,
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Toll-Free : 1 800 81 26 60
Cork, Dublin.
JAPAN
Toll-Free : 0120 57 3101
Aichi, Chiba, Fukuoka,
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KOREA
Toll-Free : 0807 34 11 11
Seoul, Sungnam.
GREECE
KOWEÏT
Tel. : 210 677 1300
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Tel. : 965 249 22 600
South Surra.
HONG KONG
LEBANON
Toll-Free : 800 968 821
Hong Kong.
Tel. : 961 5 953 700
Beirut.
MOROCCO
Toll-Free : 0801 00 77 02
Casablanca.
NETHERLANDS
Toll-Free : 0800 022 2320
Amstelveen,
Amsterdam,
Arnehm, Den Haag,
Eindhoven, Maastricht,
Rotterdam, Utrecht.
Toll-Free : 0200 456 600
Stockholm.
TURKEY
Tel. : 212 270 79 00
Istanbul.
UNITED ARAB
EMIRATES
Tel. : 971 4 885 3131
Abu Dhabi, Dubai.
UNITED
KINGDOM
Toll-Free : 0800 442 442
Birmingham, London,
Manchester.
USA
Toll-Free : 1800 562 1465
Boston, Chevy Chase,
Chicago, Costa Mesa,
Miami, New York,
San Francisco,
Scottsdale.
SWITZERLAND
Toll-Free : 0800 55 52 53
Baden, Basel, Bern,
Bienne, Fribourg,
Geneva, Lausanne,
Lucerne, Lugano,
Paudex, St-Gallen,
St-Moritz, Thun,
Winterthur,
Zug, Zürich.
NORWAY
Toll-Free : 800 87 600
Oslo.
POLAND
Toll-Free : 0800 51 52 53
Warsaw.
PORTUGAL
Toll-Free : 800 260 260
Almada, Aveiro, Braga,
Lisboa, Porto.
REUNION ISLAND
Toll-Free : 0800 222 000
St-Denis, St-Pierre.
RUSSIA
Toll-Free : 8 800 200 0004
Moscow,
St. Petersburg.
NEWLY OPENED
NESPRESSO BOUTIQUES:
AUSTRIA
LEBANON
Beirut, ABC
Graz, Sackstrasse 6
Innsbruck, Maria- Achrafieh relocation
Theresien-Strasse
SPAIN
12-14
Barcelona,
La Maquinista
FRANCE
Shopping Centre
Paris, 29, rue
Malaga, Plaza
Tronchet
Contitucion 6
Toulon, 27, bd
de Strasbourg
SWEDEN
Stockholm,
ITALY
Kungsgatan 6
Milan,
Piazza San Babila SWITZERLAND
Via Durini 27
Geneva, Balexert
* TO FIND OUT THE ADDRESS OF A NESPRESSO BOUTIQUE, TELEPHONE THE CLUB IN THE COUNTRY CONCERNED OR VISIT WWW.NESPRESSO.COM
BUSINESS SOLUTIONS
FOR A CUSTOMIZED SOLUTION FOR
YOUR COMPANY, PLEASE CONTACT
YOUR LOCAL SALES ADVISOR.
www.nespresso-pro.com
ARGENTINA
Tel. : 0800 999 0394
BRAZIL
Tel. : 0800 7777 747
AUSTRALIA
Tel. : 1800 182 206
CHINA
Tel. : 108 0065 00 618 (N)
Tel. : 108 0026 52590 (S)
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Tel. : 0810 981 981
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LUXEMBOURG
Tel. : 02 383 07 70 (BE)
Tel. : 800 48 291 (LUX)
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REPUBLIC
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SWITZERLAND
bj-coffee S.A.
Tel. : 022 708 08 60
Lyreco A.G.
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Tel. : 032 344 88 44
Dallmayr SA Chur
Tel. : 081 284 22 48
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Tel. : 091 995 15 41
Presto Café Services S.A.
Tel. : 021 721 52 20
UNITED KINGDOM
Tel. : 0808 100 88 44
USA / CANADA
Tel. : 1 800 566 0571
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MEMORIAL
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Parque
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Mercado Municipal
São Bento
.
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PINACOTECA
DO ESTADO
da Luz
Parque
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la Luz
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MAP from www.netmaps.es ILLUSTRATIONS Matthieu Carré
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VI
THE NESPRESSO
BPAULO
OUTIQUES
Find the 6 SãoSÃO
Paulo Boutiques
on the map.
Nespresso
Club,
Brazil: freephone
7777 737
T
HE N
ESPRESSO
B0800
OUTIQUES
Pa
u
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Av.
Pa
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Av. S
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Ju
Alfredo
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Av. Sao
Av
Av. S
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Av
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Sc
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Av. República
Av. República
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TAG AND
TAGJUICE
AND JUICE
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ROSA CHA
ROSAwww.rosacha.com.br
CHA www.rosacha.com.br
.
Av
ira
FASANO
FASANO
Rua Vitório
Rua Vitório
Fasano,
Fasano,
88.
88.
JardimJardim
Paulista.
Paulista.
Tel. : +55
Tel.(11)
: +55
3896-4000
(11) 3896-4000
GALERIA
GALERIA
FORTES
FORTES
VILAÇA
VILAÇA
Rua Fradique
Rua Fradique
Coutinho,
Coutinho,
1500. Pinheiros.
1500. Pinheiros.
Tel. : +55
Tel.(11)
: +55
3032-7632
(11) 3032-7632
RAFAELLA
RAFAELLA
CASSOLARI
CASSOLARI
il
as
Br
Ib
FREVO
FREVO
Rua Oscar
Rua Freire,
Oscar Freire,
603. 603.
JardimJardim
Paulista.
Paulista.
Tel. : +55
Tel.(11)
: +55
3082-3434
(11) 3082-3434
LOVE
STORY
LOVE STORY
Rua Araújo,
Rua Araújo,
232. República.
232. República.
Tel. : +55
Tel.(11)
: +55
3231-2505
(11) 3231-2505
QUIKSILVER
QUIKSILVER
www.quiksilver.com/home
www.quiksilver.com/home
ré
.
Av
Av
.
EMILIANO
EMILIANO
Rua Oscar
Rua Freire,
Oscar Freire,
384. 384.
JardimJardim
Paulista.
Paulista.
Tel. : +55
Tel.(11)
: +55
3068-4390
(11) 3068-4390
PITANGA
PITANGA
www.pitangaacessorios.com.br
www.pitangaacessorios.com.br
va
ilvaBarbosa R. Barbosa
. Sil
. SR.
ta E
ta E
Cos
Cos
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rt
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. A
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All the
Alladdresses
the addresses
mentioned
mentioned
by VikbyMuniz
Vik Muniz
are onare
pages
on pages
36 - 41.
36 - 41.
PINGUIM
PINGUIM
www.pinguim.com.br
www.pinguim.com.br
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ma
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Ve
R.
er
co
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o
pu
Br
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Av
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Ve
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THE
THE
CITIZEN
CITIZEN
OF OF
HONOUR
HONOUR
NEW ERA
NEW
http://www.neweracap.br
ERA http://www.neweracap.br
eir
R.
Ib
(Thanks
(Thanks
to Daniel
to Daniel
Santos,Santos,
our driver
our driver
in Sãoin
Paulo.
São Paulo.
Tel.: +55
Tel.:(11)
+557954-1614.
(11) 7954-1614.
E-mail:E-mail:
[email protected])
[email protected])
o
Av
.
co
an
u
. S
Av
LEVIS www.levi.com.br
LEVIS www.levi.com.br
MONICA
MONICA
LINZ www.monicalinz.com.br
LINZ www.monicalinz.com.br
tad
Es
Av. Ruben Av.
BertaRuben Berta
MARIOMARIO
QUEIROZ
QUEIROZ
www.marioqueiroz.com.br
www.marioqueiroz.com.br
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do
Av.
Av.
V
inte
e T
e T
res
res
de
de
Maio
Maio
LE MARAIS
LE MARAIS
Rua Jerônimo
Rua Jerônimo
da Veiga,
da Veiga,
30.
30.
Itaim Bibi.
ItaimTel.
Bibi.
: +55
Tel.(11)
: +55
3071-2873
(11) 3071-2873
tad
Es
do
Av.
az ré A
az ré
Naza
Naza
v. N
v. N
Av.
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Av.
Av.
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CAMPUS
CAMPUS
USP Avenida
USP Avenida
Prof Luciano
Prof Luciano
Gualberto.
Gualberto.
Butantã.
Butantã.
do
IODICEIODICE
DENIMDENIM
www.iodicedenim.com.br
www.iodicedenim.com.br
Esta
VENITE
VENITE
Rua Cons
RuaRodrigues
Cons Rodrigues
Alves, 1141.
Alves, 1141.
Moema.
Moema.
Tel. : +55
Tel.(11)
: +55
5579-5316
(11) 5579-5316
Av.
do
Br
o
i
. R
Av
Fashion,
Fashion,
p. 48p.- 48
55 - 55
AIZOMÊ
AIZOMÊ
Alameda
Alameda
FernãoFernão
Cardim,
Cardim,
39.
39.
JardimJardim
Paulista.
Paulista.
Tel. : +55
Tel.(11)
: +55
3251-5157
(11) 3251-5157
do
BENEDIXT
BENEDIXT
+55 (11)
+55
3081-5606
(11) 3081-5606
SHOPPING
SHOPPING
IGUATEMI
IGUATEMI
AvenidaAvenida
Brigadeiro
Brigadeiro
Faria Faria
www.benedixt.com.br
www.benedixt.com.br
Lima, 2232.
Lima, Pinheiros.
2232. Pinheiros.
Tel. : +55
Tel.(11)
: +55
3048-7300
(11) 3048-7300
COLLETIVO
COLLETIVO
DA MADRE
DA MADRE
+55 (11)
+55
3061-9044
(11) 3061-9044
BARBACOA
BARBACOA
MASP
Avenida
Rua DrRua
Renato
Dr Renato
Paes Barros,
Paes Barros,
65.
65.
MASP Avenida
Paulista,
Paulista,
1578. 1578.
Itaim Bibi.
ItaimTel.
Bibi.
: +55
Tel.(11)
: +55
3168-5522
(11) 3168-5522
Bela Vista.
Bela Tel.
Vista.
: +55
Tel.(11)
: +55
3289-7704
(11) 3289-7704
CONCEITO
CONCEITO
FIRMA FIRMA
CASA +55
CASA
(11)
+55
3068-0380
(11) 3068-0380
GALERIE
GALERIE
OSKLEN
OSKLEN
DOS PÃES
DOSRua
PÃES
Estados
Rua Estados
Unidos,Unidos,
1645. 1645.
Rua Oscar
Rua Freire,
Oscar Freire,
645. 645.
JardimJardim
Paulista.
Paulista.
Tel. : +55
Tel.(11)
: +55
3064-5900
(11) 3064-5900 JardimJardim
Paulista.
Paulista.
Tel. : +55
Tel.(11)
: +55
3083-7977
(11) 3083-7977
ESTUDIO
ESTUDIO
MANUSMANUS
+55 (11)
+55
3032-0679
(11) 3032-0679
OCA
Parque
INSALATA
INSALATA
OCA Parque
do Ibirapuera.
do Ibirapuera.
Moema.
Moema.
Alameda
Alameda
Campinas,
Campinas,
1474. 1474.
Tel. : +55
Tel.(11)
: +55
5572-0985
(11) 5572-0985
JardimJardim
Paulista.
Paulista.
Tel. : +55
Tel.(11)
: +55
3884-0310
(11) 3884-0310
IBRÜGGER
IBRÜGGER
OBJECTS
OBJECTS
+55 (11)
+55
2925-4895
(11) 2925-4895
www.ibruggerobjects.com
www.ibruggerobjects.com
MANÍ
Rua
PATIO
HIGIENÓPOLIS
MANÍ
Joaquim
Rua Joaquim
Antunes,
Antunes,
210. Pinheiros.
210. Pinheiros.
PATIO HIGIENÓPOLIS
Tel. : +55
Tel.(11)
: +55
3085-4148
(11) 3085-4148
Avenida
Avenida
Higienópolis,
Higienópolis,
618. Consolação.
618. Consolação.
MI CASA
MI +55
CASA
(11)
+55
3088-1238
(11) 3088-1238
Tel. : +55
Tel.(11)
: +55
3444-0112
(11) 3444-0112
www.micasa.com.br
www.micasa.com.br
SPOT
Alameda
SPOT Alameda
Ministro
Ministro
Rocha Rocha
Azevedo,
Azevedo,
72.
72.
FRANCISCA
FRANCISCA
Bela Vista.
Bela Tel.
Vista.
: +55
Tel.(11)
: +55
3283-0946
(11) 3283-0946
BOTELHO
BOTELHO
SUPERLIMÃO
SUPERLIMÃO
+55 (11)
+55
3518-8919
(11) 3518-8919
Tel. : +55
Tel.(11)
: +55
3082-2424.
(11) 3082-2424.
MOCOTÓ
MOCOTÓ
Avenida
Avenida
Nossa Nossa
Senhora
Senhora
do Loreto,
do Loreto,
1100. Vila
1100.
Medeiros.
Vila Medeiros.
Tel. : +55
Tel.(11)
: +55
2951-3056
(11) 2951-3056
A FIGUEIRA
A FIGUEIRA
RUBAIYAT
RUBAIYAT
Rua Haddock
Rua Haddock
Lobo, 1738.
Lobo, 1738.
SKYEBAR,
JardimJardim
Paulista.
Paulista.
Tel. : +55
Tel.(11)
: +55
3087-1399
(11) 3087-1399
SKYEHÔTEL
BAR, HÔTEL
UNIQUE
UNIQUE
Avenida
Avenida
Brigadeiro
Brigadeiro
Luís Antônio,
Luís Antônio,
4700. Jardim
4700. Jardim
Paulista.
Paulista.
KINOSHITA
KINOSHITA
Tel. : +55
Tel.(11)
: +55
3055-4702.
(11) 3055-4702.
www.hotelunique.com.br
www.hotelunique.com.br
Rua Jacques
Rua Jacques
Félix, 405.
Félix, 405.
A MULHER
A MULHER
DO PADRE
DO PADRE
Moema.
Moema.
Tel. : +55
Tel.(11)
: +55
3849-6940
(11) 3849-6940
FASANO
FASANO
Rua Vitório
Rua Vitório
Fasano,
Fasano,
88.
88.
LIVRARIA
JardimJardim
Paulista.
Paulista.
Tel. : +55
Tel.(11)
: +55
3896-4000
(11) 3896-4000 LIVRARIA
CULTURA
CULTURA
Avenida
Avenida
Paulista,
Paulista,
2073. 2073.
CARRANO
CARRANO
www.carrano.com.br
www.carrano.com.br
Consolação.
Consolação.
Tel. : +55
Tel.(11)
: +55
3170-4033
(11) 3170-4033
BOLINHA
BOLINHA
Avenida
Avenida
CidadeCidade
Jardim,Jardim,
53.
53.
CNS www.cnscalcados.com.br
CNS www.cnscalcados.com.br
DUE
Pinheiros.
Pinheiros.
Tel. : +55
Tel.(11)
: +55
3061-0988
(11) 3061-0988
CUOCHI
DUE CUOCHI
Avenida
Avenida
Jacuntinga,
Jacuntinga,
365. 365.
Moema.
Moema.
Tel. : +55
Tel.(11)
: +55
5051-7551
(11) 5051-7551
COLCCI
COLCCI
www.colcci.com.br
www.colcci.com.br
LELLIS
Rua
LELLIS
Bela
RuaCintra,
Bela Cintra,
1849. Consolação.
1849. Consolação.
EDEN www.edenorganic.com.br
GALERIA
GALERIA
Tel. : +55
Tel.(11)
: +55
3064-2727
(11) 3064-2727
OURO OURO
FINO Rua
FINO
Augusta,
Rua Augusta,
2690. 2690. EDEN www.edenorganic.com.br
JardimJardim
Paulista.
Paulista.
Tel. : +55
Tel.(11)
: +55
3082-7860
(11) 3082-7860
ESTUDIO
ESTUDIO
FRAMEFRAME
www.estudioframe.com.br
www.estudioframe.com.br
A BELA
ASINTRA
BELA SINTRA
Rua Bela
RuaCintra,
Bela Cintra,
2325. 2325.
LIVRARIA
JardimJardim
Paulista.
Paulista.
Tel. : +55
Tel.(11)
: +55
3891-1090
(11) 3891-1090 LIVRARIA
DA VILA
DARua
VILA
DrRua
Mário
Dr Ferraz,
Mário Ferraz,
414. 414.
ESTUDIO
ESTUDIO
M www.blogdaemme.com/lojas
M www.blogdaemme.com/lojas
Itaim Bibi.
ItaimTel.
Bibi.
: +55
Tel.(11)
: +55
3073-0513
(11) 3073-0513
GALERIA
GALERIA
CHOQUE
CHOQUE
CULTURAL
CULTURAL
HAVAIANAS
HAVAIANAS
www.havaianas.com.br
www.havaianas.com.br
MERCADO
MERCADO
Rua João
RuaMoura,
João Moura,
997. Jardim
997. Jardim
Paulista.
Paulista.
MUNICIPAL
MUNICIPAL
Rua da Rua
Cantareira,
da Cantareira,
306. 306.
Tel. : +55
Tel.(11)
: +55
3061-4051
(11) 3061-4051
Sé. Tel.Sé.
: +55
Tel.(11)
: +55
3228-0673
(11) 3228-0673
IMAGINARIUM
IMAGINARIUM
www.imaginarium.com.br
www.imaginarium.com.br
SÃOCRISTÓVÃO
SÃO CRISTÓVÃO
Rua Aspicuelta,
Rua Aspicuelta,
533. 533.
Pinheiros.
Pinheiros.
Tel. : +55
Tel.(11)
: +55
3097-9904
(11) 3097-9904
ior
ior
Jun
Jun
des
des
Men
R.
Esta
Style,Style,
p. 44p.- 44
47 - 47
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DIom Pedro
v. Dom
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Av.
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ZAHIL
VINHOS
RODEIO
ZAHIL VINHOS
Rua Manuel
Rua Manuel
Guedes,
Guedes,
294. 294. RODEIO
Rua Haddock
Rua Haddock
Lobo, 1498.
Lobo, 1498.
Itaim Bibi.
ItaimTel.
Bibi.
: +55
Tel.(11)
: +55
3071-2900
(11) 3071-2900
JardimJardim
Paulista.
Paulista.
Tel. : +55
Tel.(11)
: +55
3474-1333
(11) 3474-1333
Find stockists
Find stockists
of theofbrands
the brands
featured
featured
in theinfollowing
the following
sections:
sections:
Av
.
TEATRO
TEATRO
Rua
BRADESCO
BRADESCO
Rua Turiassu,
Rua Turiassu,
2100. 2100. GERO
GERO
Haddock
Rua Haddock
Lobo, 1629.
Lobo, 1629.
Barra Funda.
Barra Funda.
Tel. : +55
Tel.(11)
: +55
3670-4100
(11) 3670-4100
JardimJardim
Paulista.
Paulista.
Tel. : +55
Tel.(11)
: +55
3064-0005
(11) 3064-0005
PAGES
PAGES
Av
.
PINACOTECA
PINACOTECA
DO ESTADO
DO ESTADO
Praça da
Praça
Luz,da2.Luz, 2.
Bom Retiro.
Bom Retiro.
Tel. : +55
Tel.(11)
: +55
3324-1000
(11) 3324-1000
r
se
es
r
. B
Vd
R
R.
.
Be Be
l
l
a
a
Ci
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SOFITEL
SOFITEL
Rua Sena
RuaMadureira,
Sena Madureira,
1355. 1355.
Ibirapuera.
Ibirapuera.
Tel. : +55
Tel.(11)
: +55
3201-0800
(11) 3201-0800
STYLE
STYLE
&&
FASHION
FASHION
Ci
n
All the
Alladdresses
the addresses
mentioned
mentioned
by Club
by Members
Club Members
are onare
pages
on pages
18 - 35.
18 - 35.
R.
R
P. . P.
J
oã Joã
o
o
M
M
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CITY
CITY
GUIDE
GUIDE
Av Av
.
.
No No
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INFORMATION
INFORMATION
StreetStreet
MapMap
INFORMATION
INFORMATION
Addresses
Addresses
Maxi Marine Chronometer 43 mm - 266-67-3/43
Self-winding chronometer certified movement.
Water-resistant to 200 m. 18 ct rose gold case.
Available on gold bracelet or rubber strap.
For a catalog, call 561 988 8600
email: [email protected] or
Ulysse Nardin Switzerland - +41 32 930 7400
email: [email protected]
CAPRICCIO WITH CHOCOLATE AND
COFFEE MOUSSE AND BRAZIL NUT THINS
DECAFFEINATO LUNGO WITH
VANILLA-LACED FRUIT SALAD
VIVALTO LUNGO WITH COCONUT
BLANCMANGE, BANANA CREAM AND
PASSION FRUIT COULIS
DULSÃO DO BRASIL WITH QUICK
EXOTIC FRUIT SORBET
VIVALTO LUNGO WITH COCONUT
BLANCMANGE, BANANA CREAM
AND PASSION FRUIT COULIS
CAPRICCIO WITH CHOCOLATE AND
COFFEE MOUSSE AND
BRAZIL NUT THINS
SERVES 6
PREPARATION TIME: 15 min. COOKING TIME:10 min.
INGREDIENTS: 6 Vivalto Lungo capsules (6 x 110 ml).
For the blancmange: 400 g (14.1 oz.) coconut milk - 125 g
SERVES 6
PREPARATION TIME: 10 min. COOLING TIME: 4 to 12 hrs.
INGREDIENTS: 6 Capriccio capsules (6 x 40 ml).
For the mousse: 200 g (7.1 oz.) 70% dark chocolate - 200 ml
(4.4 oz.) desiccated coconut - 1 vanilla pod - 80 g (2.8 oz.)
sugar - 3 sheets of gelatine or 1 teaspoon of agar - 200 ml
(7 fl. oz.) whipping cream. For the cream: 200 ml (7 fl. oz.)
whipping cream - 1 tablespoon icing sugar - 1 banana
(80 g / 2.8 oz.) - 1 lime. For the coulis: 4 passion fruit 2 tablespoons of sugar - 6 tablespoons of water.
(7 fl. oz.) whipping cream - 20 g (0.7 oz.) butter - 1 Capriccio
capsule (40 ml or 4 tablespoons) - 50 g (1.8 oz.) icing sugar
- 3 eggs. For the Brazil nut thins: 2 egg whites - 50 g (1.8 oz.)
plain flour - 50 g (1.8 oz.) sugar - 50 g (1.8 oz.) melted
butter - 40 g (1.4 oz.) roughly chopped Brazil nuts
- 1 Capriccio capsule (40 ml).
Soak the gelatine in cold
water to soften it. Heat the
coconut milk, desiccated
coconut, split vanilla pod and
the sugar in a saucepan.
■ Take off the heat, add the
drained gelatine and leave
to cool. ■ Whip the cream.
Fold it into the mixture and
then spoon it into the glasses.
For the banana cream, blend
the banana and lime juice.
■ Whip up the cream with
For the mousse, break up the
the icing sugar, adding
the banana at the end as
it starts to stiffen. ■ Top the
blancmanges with banana
cream and place in the fridge
for 4 hours. Cut the passion
fruit in half and place the
seeds, juice, sugar and water
into a saucepan. Boil for 5
minutes. ■ Pour warm over the
cream and serve with a Vivalto
Lungo Grand Cru.
chocolate into pieces and place
in a bowl. ■ Bring the cream to
the boil and pour it on top.
Add the butter and whisk until
the mixture is smooth.
■ Separate the egg yolks from
the egg whites, beat the yolks
with the sugar and add them to
the melted chocolate along with
a capsule of Capriccio coffee.
■ Whip the egg whites until they
are stiff and carefully fold them
into the mixture. ■ Cool in the
fridge for at least 4 hours.
For the Brazil nut thins, lightly
whisk the egg whites until they
start to foam and then add the
flour, sugar, butter and Brazil
nuts. ■ Open the Capriccio
capsule to access the coffee
powder. Mix into the dough
and place in the fridge.
■ Spread the dough on a piece
of greased baking paper with
your fingers and cook in the
oven at 180°C (gas mark 6) for
8 minutes. ■ Serve the mousse
with the thins and a Capriccio
Grand Cru.
Pixie Lungo cup (Nespresso – design by 5.5. Designers).
Pixie Espresso cups (Nespresso – design by 5.5. Designers).
Production Marie Leteuré Stylist Élodie Rambaud Photography Jérôme Bilic
DULSÃO DO BRASIL
AND QUICK EXOTIC FRUIT SORBET
SERVES 6
PREPARATION TIME: 5 min. FREEZING TIME: 2 hrs.
INGREDIENTS: 6 Dulsão do Brasil capsules (6 x 40 ml).
For the sorbets: 750 g (1 lb 10.5 oz.) frozen fruit (mango,
pineapple, passion fruit, pitaya or dragon fruit, lime)
- 50 g (1.8 oz.) icing sugar - 1 egg white - 1 Dulsão
do Brasil capsule (40 ml).
Place the fruit in the bowl of
a food processor with the
sugar, egg white and hot
coffee, and blend at top speed
until the mixture is smooth
and consistent. ■ Eat the
sorbet immediately or place
it in the freezer for 2 hours.
■ Serve with a Dulsão do Brasil
Grand Cru.
NB: you will find bags of frozen
fruit in the freezer section of
your supermarket, or you can
cut your own fruit into pieces
and freeze it.
DECAFFEINATO LUNGO
WITH VANILLA-LACED FRUIT SALAD
SERVES 6
COOLING TIME: 1 hr.
INGREDIENTS: 6 Decaffeinato Lungo capsules (6 x 110 ml).
For the fruit salad: 1 mango - 1 pineapple - 1 pitaya
(dragon fruit) - 4 kiwi fruit - 1 papaya - 250 g (8.8 oz.)
redcurrants - 250 g (8.8 oz.) raspberries - 4 vanilla pods
- 2 limes - 80 g (2.8 oz.) Demerara sugar.
Peel the fruit and use a
melon-baller or teaspoon
to create small balls. ■ Place
all the fruit balls in a mixing
bowl. ■ To make the syrup,
boil 200 ml (7 fl. oz.) water
for 8 minutes with half the
redcurrants and raspberries,
split vanilla pods and sugar.
Add the lime juice, then
pour the hot syrup over the
fruit. ■ Cool in the fridge for
at least 1 hour. ■ Serve with
a Decaffeinato Lungo Grand
Cru.
■
Ritual Espresso cup (Nespresso – design by Andrée Putman).
Papyrus Colours bowls (Rosenthal).
Pixie Lungo cup (Nespresso – design by 5.5. Designers).
Papyrus Colours bowls (Rosenthal).

SÃO PAULO Vik Muniz

Transcription

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