March 2014 - Wildlife Travel

Transcription

Morocco species lists and trip report, 1st to 8th March 2014
WILDLIFE TRAVEL
Morocco 2014
with ACE Cultural Tours
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DATE
1st March
2nd March
3rd March
4th March
5th March
6th March
7th March
8th March
LOCATIONS & NOTES
Evening arrival at Agadir, transfer to Atlas Kasbah
Atlas Kasbah and local area.
Atlantic Coast: Oued Tamri & Cap Rhir
Taroudant & Tioute Palmery
Sous Massa National Park
Anti Atlas: Ait Baha and beyond
Western High Atlas: Paradise Valley to the Cascades du Immouzer
Atlas Kasbah and local area. Evening flight back to UK
Based at the Atlas Kasbah Ecolodge, close to the village of Tighanimine El Baz on the outskirts of Agadir,
we spent a week exploring some of the unique habitats of southern Morocco, from the Atlantic coast to the
High Atlas. This area is centre for one of the iconic plants of Morocco, the Argan Tree Argania spinosa, a
plant that accompanied us throughout our travels. Belonging to the primarily tropical family the
Sapotaceae, Argans are today primarily confined to south-west Morocco, a relic from the time when this
area had a tropical climate. Morocco as usual was full of many delights and summarised in this report are
some of the key plants, birds and other animals seen on each day of the trip. A plant, bird and animal list
is also appended. As needed the plants names have been checked against the recent Flore Practique du
Maroc and may differ from names used in the field or the other field guides.
Morocco has a flora of some 4200 plants making it a floristic hotspot in North Africa and the wider
Mediterranean. This diversity is in part driven by the diversity of landscapes: the Atlas mountain ranges
which reach 4200m at their highest points; the long Mediterranean and Atlantic coastlines; the influences
of the southern Saharan elements; and the northern Mediterranean flora with affinities to southern Spain.
Within the flora 22% are endemic to Morocco, found nowhere else on earth, examples seen on this trip
including Lavandula maroccana and L. mairei var. antiatlantica, and of course Argania spinosa. Other
species have their main centre of distribution in Morocco including Tetraclinis articulata, whilst other
vegetation types such as the Euphorbia scrub are peculiar to the Atlantic coast of Morocco and the north
Atlantic Islands, most notably the Canary Islands.
The Atlas Kasbah set within the Argan Biosphere Reserve.
Argania spinosa in fruit
Day 1, 1st March – Flight from Gatwick.
The afternoon flight from Gatwick meant we arrived in Agadir in the early evening and despite long and
bureaucratic delays at passport control we could eventually relax on arriving at the Atlas Kasbah and enjoy
our evening meal – fish tagine.
www.wildlife-travel.co.uk
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Day 2, 2nd March – Garden of the Atlas Kasbah and walk to Tighanimine El Baz
The morning offered the chance to explore the garden and surrounds of the Atlas Kasbah and walk to a
view point at the village. The garden includes both ornamentals such as cotton, roses and many herbs
from rosemary to lemon grass illustrating the favourable climate for growing a wide range of plants. The
garden provides for the kitchen and prominent crops where broad beans and coriander. Amongst the
cultivated plants are many Moroccan natives including several members of the Daisy or
Compositae/Asterceae family, a prominent group in the Moroccan flora. From southern Morocco we found:
the violet flowered Volutaria maroccana; with feathery foliage and branching directly beneath the flower
head the yellow-orange Cladanthus arabicus; and a more widespread Mediterranean ‘arable weed’
Chrysanthemum coronarium, the crown daisy with creamy white florets and yellow centre. We also found
the native red flowered Echium horridum, a relative of borage, the specific name referring to the large
obvious bristles-like hairs on the stem. The unusual and prominent purple/pink flowers of Fagonia cretica
in the family Zygophyllaceae were also common, and the wide spread Mediterranean species with bright
pink flowers, Convolvulus althaeoides.
The Kasbah and its garden was clearly a haven for birds and commonly seen were the noisy Common
Bulbul, House Bunting and Great Tit. The pools installed to treat grey water from the Kasbah and
surrounded by Sweet Potatoes, Ipomaea batatus, were home to both Berber Toad and North African Water
Frog.
Cladanthus arabicus
Volutaria maroccana
Echium horridum
Walking towards the village the effects of grazing were very evident with spiny plants such as the wirenet
bush Launaea arborescens and Zizyphus lotus often used as dead hedges around the fields and poisonous
plants including Withania somniferum with small green bell flowers and distasteful Ononis natrix with
yellow flowers and sticky foliage and subsequently seen almost every day throughout the trip. Crossing the
dry riverbed most walked up into the old village past large clumps of the non-native prickly pear. Widely
naturalised and even invasive it is now recognised as forming a distinct species from the wild relatives in
the America’s and classified as Opuntia ficus-barbarica.
Fagonia cretica
Convolvulus althaeoides
Ziziphus lotus
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Interesting birds along the way included a Moroccan highlight, the colourful Moussier’s Redstart, Black
Wheatear on the ruined walls of houses and many House Sparrows through the village and frequent
sightings of Kestrels. The village gave an insight into life for many Moroccans: the old houses contrasting
with the concrete new; cars and motorbikes with donkey transport; and children herding a small family
flock or goats or sheep.
The enjoyable lunch on the terrace was only interrupted by the unexpected appearance of a Spur-thighed
Tortoise of the endemic soussensis sub-species, sometimes encountered in its more usual habitat of rocky
slopes but this time able to enjoy fresh lettuce.
An afternoon stroll took us through the garden again and we stumbled across a fine specimen of the
broomrape, Orobanche crenata, parasitic on Broad Bean and another parasitic plant, the Field Dodder,
Cuscuta campestris, the fine yellow stems again twining around a Broad Bean. Across the road yielded
some nice finds including Lavandula multifida, the attractive toadflax relative, Linaria bipartita and the
unusual native Caralluma munbyana, a succulent and well camouflaged member of the Asclepiadaceae. A
nice find was a plant of the afternoon blooming Gynandriris sisyrinchium.
Amongst the now-familiar Moussier’s Redstarts, some of us also saw a male Common Redstart flicking
through the Argan bushes, a migrant on his way north to Europe. Nearby a pair of Woodchat Shrikes put
on a show and a surprise for those at the back of the group was a lovely Barbary Striped Grass Mouse,
feeding quietly in a ditch.
Dinner was a traditional celebratory Moroccan dish chicken-almond pastilla.
Linaria bipartita
Orobanche crenata
Cuscuta campestris
Moringa oleifolia on terrace
Day 3, 3rd March Oued Tamri and Cap Rhir
Our main excursion took us to investigate the unique succulent Euphorbia scrub along the coast north of
Agadir and to search for one of the rarest birds in the World, the Northern Bald Ibis.
Travelling north from Agadir we took the main coast road towards the town of Tamri passing some of the
large villas belonging to members of the Moroccan Royal family and those of several Gulf States. The first
stop was at the mouth of the Oued Tamri a well-known birding spot, with good saltmarsh and dune
vegetation. The parasitic plant, Cistanche phelyphaea, with its large yellow flower spikes was particularly
spectacular growing on the roots of members of the Chenopodiaceae or sea beet family. Right on the
foreshore was Cakile maritima (Sea Rocket) and just behind good patches of Polygonum maritimum (Sea
Knotgrass) and Euphorbia paralias (Sea Spurge). Amongst the more develop dunes were the grey leaved
Polycarpaea nivea. The saltmarsh was dominated by the sea beet family, Chenopodiaceae particularly
Suaeda vera (Sea Blite).
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Cistanche phelyphaea
Foreshore and dune building at Qued Tamri
The river (Oued Tamri) forms a freshwater lagoon here, one of the few places along this stretch of coast.
Gulls were common, mostly Lesser Black-Backed and Yellow-legged Gulls, with several Audouin’s Gulls
scattered amongst them and a handful of Black-headed Gulls that flew in for a wash.
Cormorants were also present of both European and Moroccan forms, the latter distinguished by its white
breast. A pair of Ruddy Shelduck were present on the lagoon, before being chased off by a feral dog, and
a lovely male Moroccan Wagtail put on quite a show as he sat and preened in the sunshine, giving
everyone the chance to see this distinctive bird through the telescope. However, our main quarry the
critically endangered Northern Bald Ibis was elusive until a single bird was seen flying across the lagoon.
Once widespread across southern Europe and North Africa their decline was due to factors including
pesticide poisoning, hunting and disturbance. Thankfully the Moroccan population has been a conservation
success story with the population now over 400 individuals although still confined to a small area and in
stark contrast to the highly threatened populations in Syria and Turkey. Despite searching beyond Tamri
on this occasion we could not find any more birds even on some of their favoured rocky hillsides and fields.
Stopping at Cap Rhir lighthouse we again searched behind for Bald Ibis but nothing apart from a few
chickens and a pair of Ravens, although a chance to introduce a Saharan plant, Warionia saharae in the
Compositae, with sweetly scented foliage. Moving to look at the Euphorbia scrub the first area explored
was dominated by Euphorbia regis-jubae bearing its lime-green flowers and found together with the
Compositae, Senecio anteuphorbia, also with succulent stems but not in flower. Key shrubs common in the
area were the grey-leaved shrub Lavandula dentata var. candicans, an unusual form of this species and
the large yellowed flowered Nauplius imbricatus. Amongst the ground flora was the white flowered
Androcymbium gramineum seen for the first time in full flower here. Another seen in full flower for the first
time (leaves had only been present before) was the yellow flowered umbel resembling a fennel but
distinguished by its wider less feathery leaflets, Thapsia garganica.
The second area explored with wind driven waves crashing against the rocks and Gannets fishing offshore,
was dominated by the spiny Euphorbia officinarum along with other spiny shrubs including Rhus
pentaphylla a common component of the Macaronesian flora and with small purple flowers Lycium
imbricatum also seen earlier at Oued Tamri. These Euphorbia scrub communities are unique to the southwest Moroccan coastline down into the Sahara and the Canary Islands off shore. They are a botanical link
between this part of Morocco and the flora of the North Atlantic Islands and are collectively termed the
Macaronesian flora. In the geological past this flora would have been more widespread on the mainland
becoming confined to these climatically favourable areas during recent cycles of glaciation.
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Androcybium gramineum
Euphorbia regis-jubae
Naupilius imbricatus Thapsia garganica
Warionia saharae
Lycium imbricatum
Agadir fishing port
After making good time on the journey home we made a short detour to the old Kasbah and view point
above Agadir looking out onto the ever expanding city rebuilt after the devastating earthquake of Feb 29th
1960. Our evening meal was fish skewers and rice.
Day 4, 4th March – Taroudannt, Tioute Palmery and Argan Co-operative
Heading east our journey to Taroudannt took us through the Souss valley, an important area of agricultural
production particularly citrus and salad crops cultivated under polythene for export to northern Europe.
The town of Taroudannt is often described as a mini—Marrakech, its mud plastered ramparts an
impressive sight on arrival. Our tour around the outside took us past the town dump with good views of
scavenging White Storks and Cattle Egrets. Refreshments where taken at the Hotel Palais Salem and the
Moorish courtyard gardens admired with their many exotic plants including the large trumpets of Solandra
maxima and a singing Western Olivaceous Warbler. A trip onto the ramparts gave good views over the
town and to the High Atlas beyond with circling Kestrels, one or two Little Swifts overhead and a line of
egrets perched along the roof of a nearby building. During the tour of the Medina and Berber market
various plant products were encountered from walnut bark used to brush teeth, colourful piles of herbs
and spices to the fresh fruit and vegetables illustrating the productiveness of the surrounding countryside.
Palais Salem Courtyard
Solandra maxima
Banana inflorescence
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We headed south from Taroudannt towards the edge of the Anti-Atlas, a much lower and older range of
mountains than the High Atlas to the north. Argan trees continued to dominate the landscape until we
reached Tioute and its Palmery. After lunch we set off on a walk along the irrigation channels that are the
life blood of the Palmery. The Date Palms, Phoenix dactylifera require a constant source of water and
hence are associated with springs in these arid environments. The Dates produced by this palm are
harvested from September and stored for later sale (in season at Christmas in the UK) or used as a source
of food for the local people. Lining the irrigation channels is the familiar Maidenhair Fern, Adiantum
capillus-veneris, and above other water demanding plants including White Poplar, Populus alba and the
Carob tree, Ceratonia siliqua. Along the field edges we found well grown plants of Dutchman’s Pipe,
Aristolochia baetica in both flower and fruit. Above the crowns of the palms there were views to the Glaoui
Kasbah the setting for the film Ali Baba and the forty thieves. Moroccan Orange Tip butterfly’s fluttered
colourfully across the fields, an Atlas Long-legged Buzzard soared over the hillside and many spotted a
Moorish Gecko sunning itself on a wall.
The Tioute Palmery and Glaoui Kasbah
Irrigation channel lined with
Maidenhair Fern
Aristolochia baetica
Returning we stopped at the Argan oil co-operative in the village of Tioute, a mixture of both modern
technology and the traditional – no one can forget the room of local women hand cracking the hard Argan
nuts. This is the second oldest co-operative in Morocco founded in 2001, our purchases a direct way to
return money to the local population. Dinner tonight was a traditional meat tagine.
Day 5, 5th March - Oued Massa and Souss National Parks
The Atlantic coastline is well known for its wetland reserves, the estuaries of major rivers draining into the
ocean creating a mosaic of water channels, reeds and mud flats. Our first visit was to the Souss River
adjacent to the Royal palace and golf course and a rarity - litter pickers along the roadsides!
A flock of Greater Flamingos greeted us across the river, later treating us to a wonderful flyby revealing the
pink and black wings of the adults. A flock of Black-winged Stilts on the mud banks and Avocets where also
highlights. Grey Herons seemed stationed as sentinels along the mud flats, a pair of Spoonbills completed
the list of birds commonly seen here. Other waders spotted where Redshank, Greenshank and Common
Sandpiper, whilst both European and Moroccan Cormorants where present. A real treat was an Osprey,
perched on a log in the main river, giving fine views before a display of fishing, eventually successfully
flying off with a catch. In the saltmarsh scrub behind we got good views of one of Europe’s smallest birds,
the Zitting Cisticola, a Moroccan Wagtail fed along the shoreline and a pair of African Blue Tits in the tall
Eucalyptus trees were to be our only sighting of the trip. In all this proved to be one of our best
birdwatching visits to this site.
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Greater Flamingo
Grey Heron and Moroccan Cormorant
Osprey
The Souss River marks the start of the Souss-Massa National Park and we headed south to explore the
Oued Massa, about an hour’s drive south. The approach to Massa is through a coastal steppe of lowgrowing, drought-resistant scrub, finally dropping down to the river. Driving in we stopped for good views
and a photographic opportunity of two Little Owls perched on an old building. At the first stop we were
able to find three key plants amongst the cultivated fields whilst the occasional fodder laden donkey
passed by. Stepping off the bus we immediately spotted the parasitic plant, Cynomorium coccineum with
its deep-purple phallic-like inflorescence, at its perfect best attracting numerous pollinating flies. This plant
is a speciality of these wetland habitats in Morocco and southern Europe. Close to the bus a large bright
green leaved plant was cultivated Pistacia atlantica and a common grey-leaved rather scruffy shrub was a
rarity in the family Nitrariaceae - Nitraria retusa. Formerly placed in the Zygophyllaceae, Nitraria is a genus
of about nine salt-tolerant species found mainly in the Sahara region across to Central Asia. Here on the
Atlantic coast it reached its most westerly outpost.
Nitraria retusa
Cynomorium coccineum
Ferula communis
This area proved an excellent spot for birds with plenty of Chiffchaff and Sardinian Warblers, at least one
Western Subalpine Warbler, good views of Stonechat, Cirl Bunting and Moussier’s Redstart, a mating pair
of Kestrels on a tall palm tree, but the standout bird here was the Black-crowned Tchagra, a pair of which
were singing their fluty duet and bouncing around on the hillside. A member of the bush-shrike family, this
is a common bird in sub-Saharan Africa which just reaches into this northern edge of the continent.
After lunch taken under the shade of Eucalyptus we enjoyed some of the unique dune flora including
plants endemic to the Atlantic coastal region: a Sea Lavender, Limonium mucronatum with papery petals
and winged stems; Erodium hesperium found only in this coastal area. Perhaps the most prominent plant
was Giant Fennel, Ferula communis, putting on a spectacular display and along with large populations of
bulb Dipcadi serotinum with brown flowers. A surprise was to find several flower spikes of Scilla peruviana
which we had never seen here before – according to the older flora’s possibly subsp. elongata perhaps
explaining its slightly different appearance from those cultivated at home. On the way out we stopped to
explore the succulent Euphorbia officinarum scrub with views up the Oued Massa, an archetypal view with
the Tamarix lined river, cultivation punctuated by Date Palms, villages with minaret and the dry rocky
slopes above. A favourite birding spot is a bridge over the Massa from where we saw Coot and Moorhen
along with various warblers and our best views of the Moorish Terrapin, quite commonly seen basking
along the river banks. In a last attempt to see Bald Ibis we ventured onwards to Camping Wassily and a
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nearby rubbish dump but our only reward was the Bald Ibis Restaurant and the coach being temporarily
stuck in the sand… We enjoyed a dinner of chicken and angel hair pasta.
Limonium mucronatum
Erodium hesperium
Scilla peruviana
Dipcadi serotinum
Day 6, March 6th – Into the Anti-Atlas
Heading south-east we took the road to Ait Baha one of the larger towns in the western Anti Atlas to
explore the plants and landscapes of this region. The Anti-Atlas contain some of the oldest rocks in the
World, an ancient mountain range which started to form 300 million years ago and once rivalled the
Himalaya in height. Today they are much eroded, the highest peaks between 2500—2700m. In comparison
the more recent High Atlas only reached their maximum height within the last 10 million years, the tallest
peak is Jbel Toubka at 4167m. A major feature of the Anti-Atlas is the highly folded rock strata, numerous
valleys and rounded peaks.
As we approached across the river valley of the Souss we spotted large plants of a grey-leaved fleshy plant
upto 3—4 metres tall, the primarily Saharan species, Calotropis procera in the Asclepiadaceae. Feeding on
these highly poisonous plants we found larvae of the Plain Tiger, a butterfly related to the well-known
Monarch. Both larvae feed on toxic plants and are able to tolerate and sequester the poisons to make them
inedible to predators – a sole adult Plain Tiger was also seen flying.
Climbing into the Anti-Atlas our first stop was to see an ancient agadir, a fortified grain store dating from
the time when local Berber tribes still fought each other. These buildings are typical of the Anti-Atlas and
we saw a few others during the day perched on high ground with commanding views. It was a treat to be
taken inside by the local custodian to see the wonderful old architecture, the prison, store rooms accessed
by ‘stepping stones’, wells for freshwater to survive any siege and views to the surrounding villages.
Common in the area and throughout our journey was the yellow flowered shrubby pea, Hesperolaburnum
platycarpum, sometimes covering hillsides and the stems used to weave baskets. Our next stop was just
beyond Ait Baha at a reservoir but this proved disappointing for birds perhaps due to the hot day with Grey
Heron, Coots, Moorhens, Little Egrets and Cormorants seen. However, a little further down the road we
found a superb pair of Bonnelli’s Eagles soaring and gliding rapidly across the landscape, giving us some
very good views.
Plain Tiger larvae on Calotropis
Hesperolaburnum platycarpum
with bowls woven from the stem
Anti-Atlas scenery
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Travelling further into the Anti-Atlas our lunch stop was amongst fresh water wells and the shade of rocks
or Almond trees – a well know stopping place for travellers through the Anti-Atlas. Exploring the
surrounding cliffs and terraces revealed a ‘rock garden’ of Euphorbia officinarum some packed tightly into
crevices, in shaded areas were Caralluma europaea, the fern Cheilanthus vellea and the diminutive Salvia
aegyptiaca, a plant of semi-deserts. On the terraces we finally caught sight of a couple of Barbary Ground
Squirrels, their presence also revealed by empty Argan nuts expertly nibbled opened by these toughtoothed rodents. We also saw quite a few Bibron’s Agamas, some about a foot long, basking on the rocks.
Whilst our Moroccan ’15 minute drive’ further into the Anti-Atlas proved a little longer than anticipated the
journey proved worthwhile and a chance to admire the spectacular Kasbah Tizourgane. A local café
provided welcome shade and refreshment amongst large trees of Pistacia atlantica and on a short roadside
stop just outside the village two great finds – the endemic Convolvolus trabutianus – a woody and spiny
white flowered convolvulus so different to the climbing herbaceous plant that are more familiar, and
endemic to the western Anti-Atlas – Lavandula mairei var. antiatlantica with bright violet-blue flowers.
As we travelled back and descended onto valley of the Souss we came across perhaps the highlight of the
week. The chance sighting of ‘a couple of Black Kites’ from the bus window soon turned into a large
circling kettle of birds… and then another, and another, and another, several very large flocks of migrating
birds rising on thermals above the hills and gliding onwards across the valley. It’s likely they had come up
from the Sahara that day and would overnight in the foothills of the High Atlas, on their way north to cross
the Mediterranean at Gibraltar. The flocks were dominated by Black Kites, a conservatively estimated 1500
at least but scattered amongst them were other north-bound migrants including four Black Storks, a couple
of Marsh Harriers and singles each of Booted Eagle, Short-toed Eagle and a lovely adult Egyptian Vulture.
Our enjoyment of the raptors provided great entertainment for a large gathering of local kids, wondering
what all the excitement was about: an exciting way to end the day, along with our evening meal of grilled
fish and aubergine dip.
Kasbah Tizourgane
Short-toed Eagle and Black Kites
Day 7, March 7th - The Western High Atlas
Driving north on the coast road, our route cut inland at ‘Banana Valley’ to explore of the foothills of the
western High Atlas, a chance to stop briefly to buy fruit for which the area is justly famous due to its
almost subtropical microclimate. Our first stop was within a narrow river gorge at around 200m the
vegetation still very much dominated by Argan trees. Other plants of note included the unusual Periploca
angustifolia in the Asclepidaceae and growing naturally the Oleander, Nerium oleander in the dry riverbed.
Our next stop at about 800m was an opportunity to explore the open woodland of Tetraclinis articulata,
the Thuya de Bérbérie, the attractive wood used in many products. This conifer is only found in Morocco,
Algeria and southern Spain, the name referring to the cones which are split into fours and its finely divided
foliage. Also conspicuous was Globularia alypum and after some searching under rocks, a scorpion and
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lovely little endemic gecko with the rather uninspiring name of Moroccan Lizard-toed Gecko. A Little Owl
watched us from a tree.
Reaching the palmery at the start of Paradise Valley a walk up the road revealed some interesting plants.
This included several Moroccan endemics notably, Lavandula maroccana found only in the High Atlas and
Andryala maroccana a yellow flowered daisy distinguished by its very hairy inflorescence heads. Also
spotted were our two species of Caralluma again, C. munbyana and C. europaea and another new plant for
this trip a Scilla with a bottle brush like flowerhead: it resembled Scilla maderensis but on checking the
floras it proved to be the closely related species Scilla latifolia.
As we gained altitude the vegetation changed and our next stops were amongst the scrub of the Dwarf
Fan Palm, Chamaerops humilis var. cerasifera, the variant with glaucous foliage mixed with Lavandula
dentata var. dentata. The cultivated Almonds trees were an indication of our altitude at about 850—900m
and fossils in the rocks reminded us of the geology of these fold mountains. Heading towards our lunch
stop below the Cascades du Immouzer we were able to stop and admire one of the special plants of the
High Atlas, the endemic Polygala balansae, a small spiny shrub with spectacular deep ruby purple and
yellow flowers. We may be familiar with the herbaceous Milkwort from chalk grasslands in the UK but most
members of this group are small shrubs.
Stopping at a local restaurant we could look up at the ‘cascades’, which were alas dry this year, whilst
some enjoyed watching a couple of Kestrels nesting in a small cave. After stopping briefly at the Argan Cooperative in the village of Immouzer above the falls, our last main stop after lunch was in a valley at about
1200m (our highest point was c. 1500m). Here the southern side was dominated by impressive stands of
the Chamaerops palm, the dominating plant at this altitude. On the northern side of the valley a different
vegetation was clearly present and this time dominated by clumps of the Holm Oak, Quercus ilex, again
another indicator of altitude. This is really a tree of the Mediterranean but growing this far south is only
found in the cooler and more amenable climate found at altitude in the High Atlas but even here forming
only a shrub or forming a small tree in the most sheltered and favourable spots. As we dropped down
towards the new motorway between Agadir and Marrakesh a pair of the shy Barbary Partridge proved to
be the best bird spot of the day. Friday’s in Morocco means vegetable or meat couscous, a fitting meal to
mark our last evening.
Tetraclinis articulata
Scilla latifolia
Lavandula marroccana
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Lavandula dentata var. dentata
Chamaerops humilis var. cerasifera
Polygala balansae
Day 8, March 8th – Atlas Kasbah and return home
Our early evening flight home gave most of the day to relax, enjoy the Atlas Kasbah with time to explore
the Garden and surrounds for one last time. Mint tea on the terrace provided refreshment before travelling
to the airport and a chance to thank M’bak, Rasheeda and the Atlas Kasbah team for our stay and their
great hospitality.
Tim Upson and Philip Precey, Wildlife Travel, March 2014
Barbary Ground Squirrel
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MOROCCO 2014
A gallery of Philip’s photos from the trip can be found at
http://www.flickr.com/photos/wildlifetravel/sets/72157642041966505/
Top: the ever-present House Bunting, in the Anti Atlas.
First row, l to r: Plants of the Atlantic coast: Androcymbium gramineum, Euphorbia officinarum and Scilla peruviana
Second row, l to r: a small part of the raptor migration over the Anti Atlas; the impressive surf off Cap Rhir
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MOROCCO 2014
Top: the endemic gecko Saurodactylus brosseti
First row, l to r: Plants of the Anti-Atlas: Hesperolaburnum platycarpum, Lavandula mairei var antiatlantica, Calotropis procera
Second row, l to r: Plants of the High Atlas: Polygala balansae, Lavandula maroccana and Chamaerops humilis var cerasifera
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8th
7th
6th
5th
4th
3rd
LATIN NAME
1st
ENGLISH NAME
2nd
Family Anatidae (Ducks, Geese & Swans)
Ruddy Shelduck
Tadorna ferruginea
Mallard
Anas platyrhnchos
Tufted Duck
Aythya fuligula
A pair on the estuary at Oued Tamri, 3rd
X
X
Family Phasianidae (Pheasants and Partridges)
Barbary Partridge
Alectoris barbara
A pair at the roadside, coming down from
the High Atlas, 7th
Family Podicipedidae (Grebes)
Little Grebe
Tachybaptus ruficollis
X
Family Sulidae (Gannets)
Gannet
Morus bassanus
X
Family Phalacrocoracidae (Cormorants)
Great Cormorant
Phalacrocorax carbo sinensis
X
X
X
X
X
X
The dark-breasted cormorants are wintering birds from Europe
White-breasted Cormorant
Phalacrocorax carbo/lucidus maroccanus
The white-breasted forms of cormorant found throughout Africa are sometimes split as a separate
species, Phalacrocorax lucidus
Family Ardeidae (Herons)
Black-crowned Night Heron
Nycticorax nycticorax
Cattle Egret
Bubulcus ibis
Little Egret
Egretta garzetta
X
X
X
Grey Heron
Ardea cinerea
X
X
X
X
X
X
Family Ciconiidae (Storks)
Black Stork
Ciconia nigra
White Stork
Ciconia ciconia
4 adults came over with the Black Kite
migration, heading north over the Anti
Atlas, 6th
X
X
X
Family Threskiornithidae (Spoonbills and Ibises)
Northern Bald Ibis
Geronticus eremita
A single bird seen distantly, flying away, at
Oued Tamri on 3rd
Currently categorised as Critically Endangered, at the end of the 2013 breeding season the
total wild population in Morocco was 443 individuals, at just two colonies. Outside Morocco,
around 100 birds live in semi-captivity at Birecik in Turkey, and a single bird remains at the
recently discovered but seemingly doomed colony in Syria.
Spoonbill
A recently reintroduced population in southern Spain now numbers around 30 released birds, and
the first breeding took place in 2008.
Platalea leucorodia
2 adults on the Oued Souss, 5th
Family Phoenicopteridae (Flamingoes)
Greater Flamingo
Phoenicopterus roseus
Around 50 birds on the river at Oued
Souss on 5th
, including about 20 who gave us two very
close fly-pasts.
Family Pandionidae (Ospreys)
Osprey
Pandion haliaetus
One bird on the Oued Souss on 5th
Family Accipitridae (Hawks and Eagles)
Egyptian Vulture
Neophron percnopterus
An adult came over with the kite migration
on 6th
Booted Eagle
Currently categorised by BirdLife Internationl as Endangered. Found throughout southern
Europe, Africa and Asia, it has declined in recent years right across the range, most dramatically in
Asia but also in Europe.
Aquila fasciata
A pair showed very well in the Anti Atlas
above Ait Baha on 6th
Aquila pennata
One dark-phase adult with the kites, 6th
Short-toed Eagle
Circaetus gallicus
Bonelli’s Eagle
One near Cap Rhir on 3rd; 4 with the kite
migration on 6th
15
Buteo rufinus cirtensis
Sparrowhawk
Accipiter nisus
X
Peregrine
Falco peregrinus
X
Kestrel
Falco tinnunculus
8th
Atlas Long-legged Buzzard
7th
Circus aeruginosus
5th
Marsh Harrier
4th
Milvus migrans
3rd
Black Kite
2nd
LATIN NAME
1st
ENGLISH NAME
6th
A spectacular migration over the Anti Atlas
on the afternoon of 6th, involving at least
1500 birds passing overhead.
One male at Oued Tamri on 3rd; 2 males
with the kite migration on 6th
One soaring over hillsides near Tioute, 4th
Family Falconidae (Falcons)
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
Family Rallidae (Rails and Crakes)
Moorhen
Gallinula chloropus
Coot
Fulica atra
X
Family Recurvirostridae (Avocets and Stilts)
Avocet
Recurvirostra avosetta
X
Black-winged Stilt
Himantopus himantopus
X
Family Scolopacidae (Sandpipers)
Curlew
Numenius arquata
Redshank
Tringa totanus
Greenshank
Tringa nebularia
Green Sandpiper
Tringa ochropus
Common Sandpiper
Actitis hypoleucos
X
H
X
X
X
X
X
Family Charadriidae (Plovers)
Little Ringed Plover
Charadrius dubius
Grey Plover
Pluvialis squatarola
Kentish Plover
Charadrius alexandrinus
X
Chroicocephalus ridibundus
Ichthyaetus audouinii
X
Audouin’s Gull
Yellow-legged Gull
Larus michahellis
X
X
X
Lesser Black-backed Gull
Larus fuscus
X
X
X
X
X
Family Laridae (Gulls)
Black-headed Gull
X
X
X
X
Family Sternidae (Terns)
Caspian Tern
Hydroprogne caspia
X
Family Columbidae (Pigeons and Doves)
Rock Dove/Feral Pigeon
Columba livia
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
Woodpigeon
Columba palumbus
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
Collared Dove
Streptopelia decaocto
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
Laughing Dove
Streptopelia senegalensis
X
X
X
X
X
Family Strigidae (Owls)
Little Owl
Athene noctua glaux
X
The paler races of Little Owl are split by some authorities as Lilith’s Owl Athena glaux, found
across North Africa and from southern Romania east across the Middle East and Central Asia.
Family Apodidae (Swifts)
Swift
Apus apus
Pallid Swift
Little Swift
Apus pallidus
Apus affinis
Alpine Swift
Apus melba
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
Family Upupidae (Hoopoes)
Hoopoe
Upupa epops
X
X
X
X
Family Alcedinidae (Kingfishers)
Kingfisher
Alcedo atthis
X
X
Family Alaudidae (Larks)
Crested Lark
Galerida cristata
X
Thekla Lark
Galerida theklae
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
16
X
X
8th
5th
X
7th
4th
X
6th
3rd
LATIN NAME
1st
ENGLISH NAME
2nd
Family Hirundinidae (Swallows and Martins)
Crag Martin
Ptyonoprogne rupestris
House Martin
Delichon urbica
Red-rumped Swallow
Hirundo daurica
Swallow
Hirundo rustica
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
Family Motacillidae (Pipits and Wagtails)
Iberian Wagtail
Motacilla cinerea
Motacilla (flava) iberiae
White Wagtail
Motacilla (a.) alba
Moroccan Wagtail
Motacilla (a.) subpersonata
Meadow Pipit
Anthus pratensis
Grey Wagtail
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
Family Turdidae (Thrushes and Chats)
Moussier’s Redstart
Phoenicurus phoenicurus
Phoenicurus moussieri
Stonechat
Saxicola torquata
Black Wheatear
Oenanthe leucura
Blue Rock Thrush
Monticola solitarius
Blackbird
Turdus merula
X
Common Redstart
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
Family Sylviidae (Warblers)
Blackcap
Sylvia atricapilla
X
Sardinian Warbler
Sylvia melanocephala
X
Western Subalpine Warbler
Sylvia cantillans
Common Chiffchaff
Phylloscopus collybita
Western Olivaceous Warbler
Iduna opaca
Cetti’s Warbler
Cettia cetti
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
Family Cisticolidae (Cisticolas)
Zitting Cisticola
Cisticola juncidis
X
Family Paridae (Tits)
Great Tit
Parus major
African Blue Tit
Cyanistes tenerifae
X
X
X
X
Family Laniidae (Shrikes)
Southern Grey Shrike
Lanius elegans
X
X
Woodchat Shrike
Lanius senator
X
X
X
X
X
Family Malaconotidae (Tchagras)
Black-crowned Tchagra
Tchagra senegalus
X
Family Pycnonotidae (Bulbuls)
Pycnonotus barbatus
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
Maghreb Magpie
Pica (pica) mauritanica
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
Raven
Corvus corax
Common Bulbul
Family Corvidae (Crows)
X
X
Family Sturnidae (Starlings)
Spotless Starling
Sturnus unicolor
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
Passer domesticus
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
Chaffinch
Fringilla coelebs
X
X
X
X
Greenfinch
Carduelis chloris
Goldfinch
Carduelis carduelis
Linnet
Carduelis cannabina
Serinus serinus
Family Passeridae (Sparrows)
House Sparrow
Family Fringillidae (Finches)
Serin
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
Family Emberizidae (Buntings)
Corn Bunting
Miliaria calandra
X
House Bunting
Emberiza sahari
X
Cirl Bunting
Emberiza cirlus
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
17
3rd
4th
5th
6th
7th
8th
2nd
LATIN NAME
1st
ENGLISH NAME
X
X
X
X
X
X
AMPHIBIANS & REPTILES
Berber Toad
Bufo mauretanicus
X
North African Water Frog
Pelophylax saharica
X
Spur-thighed Tortoise
Testudo graeca soussensis
X
Moorish Terrapin
Mauremys leprosa
Moorish Gecko
Tarentola mauretanica
Moroccan Lizard-toed Gecko
Bibron’s Agama
Saurodactylus brosseti
Agama bibroni
Leopard Fringe-toed Lizard
Acanthodactylus busacki
X
Dromedary
Camelus dromedarius
X
Barbary Ground Squirrel
Atlantoxerus getulus
Barbary Striped Grass Mouse
Lemniscomys barbarous
Atelerix algirus
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
LARGER MAMMALS
Algerian Hedgehog
X
X
X
One feeding in a ditch near the hotel, 2nd
Footprints in the sand at Tamri, 3rd
BUTTERFLIES
Family Papilionidae (Swallowtails)
Southern Swallowtail
Iphiclides (podarius) feisthamelii
Swallowtail
Papilio machaon
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
Family Pieridae (Whites)
Moroccan Orange Tip
Anthocharis belia
Large White
Pieris brassicae
Small White
Pieris rapae mauretanica
Clouded Yellow
Colias croceus
Cleopatra
Gonopteryx cleopatra
X
Brimstone
Gonopteryx rhamni
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
Family Nymphalidae (Admirals and Fritillaries)
Painted Lady
Vanessa cardui
Queen of Spain Fritillary
Issoria lathonia
Desert Fritillary
Melitaea deserticola
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
Family Satyridae (Browns)
Pararge aegeria
Speckled Wood
X
Family Danaide (Monarchs)
Plain Tiger
Danaus chrysippus
X i
Family Lycaenidae (Blues & Coppers)
Moroccan Hairstreak
Tomares mauretanicus
Lang’s Short-tailed Blue
Leptotes pirithous
Common Tiger Blue
Tarucus theophrastus
X
X
X
X
X
Common Tiger Blue (left) and Barbary Ground Squirrel (right)
18
Plant list - Morocco - 1st-8th March 2014
Tim Upson
cf. Indicates identifications which are tentative
Atlas Kasbah
Garden and crop areas
Family
Species
Acanthaceae
Justicia adhatoda
Common name, notes
Shrub close to hotel entrance. White flower spikes with
red veining
Aizoaceae
Carpobrotus acinaciformis
Hottentot fig from South Africa. Widely planted for
groundcover
Casuarinaceae
Asteraceae
Asteraceae
Convolvulaceae
Convolvulaceae
Cupressaceae
Euphorbiaceae
Lamiaceae
Lamiaceae
Fabaceae
Fabaceae
Malvaceae
Moringaceae
Nyctaginaceae
Palmae
Myoporaceae
Resedaceae
Casuarina equisetifolia
Argyranthemum frutescens
Calendula stellata
Convolvulus althaeoides
Ipomaea batatus
Cupressus sempervirens
Acalypha wilkesiana
Ocimum spp.
Rosmarinus officinalis
Lotus creticus
Vicia sativa
Hibiscus rosa-sinensis
Moringa oleifera
Bougainvillea hybrid
Washingtonia filifera
Myoporum laetum
Reseda lutea
Planted along drive
White & flowered
Native weed
Native weed
Sweet potato - climber by pottery area
Pencil cedar
Ornamental with coloured leaves
Several cultivated including common Basil, O. basilicum,
Rosemary
Yellow flowered legume
Yellow vetch
Cultivated with large red flowers
Horseradish tree on terrace - while flowers
Dwarf shrub with coloured bracts
Palm along driveway
Used as a hedge - white flowers
yellow or wild mignonette
Atlas Kasbah grounds, walk to village and surrounds
Aristolochiaceae
Asclepediaceae
Asclepediaceae
Asphodelaceae
Found above river scrambling through hedge
Caralluma munbyana
Moroccan endemic - Stem succulent
Periploca angustifolia
In hedges along road (not in flower)
Asphodelus ramosus subsp. nervosus Large flowered species (named as A. aestivus)
Asphodelaceae
Asphodelus fistulosus
Small-flowered and much branched inflorescence common
Boraginaceae
Echium horridum
Red flowers
Cactaceae
Opuntia ficus-barbarica
Fig of the Berbers - Invasive around village and
environs. Like Opuntia ficus-indica & recently
reclassified
Asteraceae
Chrysanthemum coronarium
Very common in field opposite driveway
19
Asteraceae
Asteraceae
Asteraceae
Convolvulaceae
Curcubitaceae
Poaceae
Poaceae
Poaceae
Lamiaceae
Fabaceae
Asparagaceae
Orobanchaceae
Palmae
Primulaceae
Rhamnaceae
Sapotaceae
Scrophulariaceae
Solanaceae
Cladanthus arabicus
Launaea arborescens
Volutaria cf. maroccana
Cuscuta campestris
Bryonia dioica
Arundo donax
Avena sterilis
Hyparrhenia hirta
Lavandula multifida
Ononis natrix
Urginea maritima
Orobanche crenata
Phoenix dactylifera
Anagallis arvensis
Zizyphus lotus
Argania spinosa
Linaria bipartita
Heliotropium crispum
Moroccan endemic - widespread & very common
Wire-net bush with yellow flowers
Moroccan endemic - Mauve flowers
Field dodder - parasitic plant
Climber
Along river
Grass with large spikelets
Common in area across from drive
Violet-blue flowers, divided foliage
Sticking viscid shrub
Leaves only
Broomrape
By mosque along river bank
Scarlet pimpernal
Spiny shrub - used for hedging
Moroccan endemic - Argan tree
Violet blue toadflax with large flowers
Heliotrope - white flowered
Solanaceae
Nicotiana glaucum
Large glaucous leaved shrub with yellow tubular
flowers. Introduced invasive from South America
Solanaceae
Withania somnifera
Pale yellow green flowers - poisonous and dominating
in grazed areas
Zygophyllaceae
Fagonia cretica
Common purple flowered herb
Tamri & Cap Rhir
Salt marsh and sand dune vegetation at mouth of Oued Tamri.
Caryophyllaceae
Chenopodiaceae
Brassicaceae
Euphorbiaceae
Orobanchaceae
Polygonaceae
Solanaceae
Polycarpaea nivea
Suaeda vera
Cakile maritima
Euphorbia paralias
Cistanche phelypaea
Polygonum maritimum
Lycium imbricatum
White tomentose leaves in dunes
Dominate succulent plant in salt marsh
Annual at edge of dunes
Seen with spurge hawkmoth caterpillar
Large yellow flower spike - parasitic on chenopodiaceae
Sea Knotgrass
Spiny shrub with small purple flowers
Cap Rhir - Euphorbia scrub and example of Macaronesian flora.
Anacardiaceae
Asteraceae
Rhus tripartita
Launaea arborescens
3-lobed leaves, spiny shrub
Yellow flowered shrub - wirenet bush
Asteraceae
Nauplius imbricatus
Moroccan endemic - Shrubby daisy with large yellow
flowers
Asteraceae
Senecio anteuphorbia
Stem succulent - important component of scrub
Asteraceae
Warionia saharae
Moroccan endemic - yellow flowers and strongly
scented leaves
20
Brassicaceae
Mattiola littorea
Euphorbiaceae
Euphorbia officinarum
Euphorbiaceae
Fabaceae
Frankeniaceae
Lamiaceae
Lamiaceae
Colchicaceae
Sapotaceae
Scrophulariaceae
Solanceae
Apiaceae
Euphorbia regis-jubae
Ononis natrix
Frankenia thymifolia
Lavandula dentata var. candicans
Lavandula multifida
Androcymbium gramineum
Argania spinosa
Nanorrhinum heterophylla
Lycium imbricatum
Thapsia garganica
Sea-stock relative
Main species of succulent Euphorbia with spiny
succulent stems
Important component of scrub with lime-green flowers
Pink flowered prostrate herb
With grey leaves
Early flowering - leaves only seen
Argan seen in places
Split from Kickxia - scrambling with yellow flowers
Spiny shrub with small purple flowers
Common yellow flowered umbel
Visit to Taroudannt, Argan oil co-operative & Palmery at Tioute
Palmery - planted Date Palms and cultivated fields
Aristolochiaceae
Euphorbiaceae
Mercurialis annua
Fabaceae
Ceratonia siliqua
Palmae
Phoenix dactylifera
Polypodiaceae
Adiantum capillus-veneris
Rubiaceae
Rubia peregrina
Salicaceae
Populus alba
Solanaceae
Withania adpressa
Solanaceae
Withania frutescens
Carob - few trees by side of path
Common date palm
Fern on side or irrigation channel
White Poplar
Plant at end of walk
Oued Massa and Souss National Park
Cultivated areas
Anacardiaceae
Pistacia atlantica
Medium tree at first stop
Fabaceae
Acacia ehrenbergiana
Planted as hedges. Re-identified from herbarium
material
Nitrariaceae
Nitraria retusa
Small white flowers with grey foliage. Closely related to
the Zygophyllaceae
Solanaceae
Lycium imbricatum
Spiny shrub with purple flowers
Rivers margins and wetland areas
Balanophoraceae
Cynomorium coccineum
Chenopodiaceae
Suaeda vera
Frankeniaceae
Frankenia laevis
Poaceae
Arundo donax
Poaceae
Phragmites altissima
Palmae
Phoenix dactylifera
Tamaricaceae
Tamarix gallica
Parasitic plant
Listed as Suaeda fruticosa at park
Pink flowered herb
Very tall grass along river margins
Occassional along river edge
Pink flowered shrub
21
Sandy dune areas
Boraginaceae
Asteraceae
Geraniaceae
Fabaceae
Fabaceae
Asparagaceae
Asparagaceae
Plumbaginaceae
Plumbaginaceae
Apiaceae
Heliotropium crispum
Calendula stellata
Erodium hesperium
Ononis natrix
Retama monosperma
Dipcadi serotinum
Scilla peruvianum
Limonium mucronatum
Limonium sinuatum
Ferula communis
White flowers
Yellow daisy
Moroccan endemic to Atlantic coast of Morocco
Very viscid sub-shrub
White scented flowers on leafless shrub
Numerous brown flowered bulbs
Blue flowered - possibly subsp. elongata
Moroccan endemic - Papery petals & winged stems
everlasting flower
Giant Fennel in great quantity
Euphorbia scrub
Asteraceae
Euphorbiaceae
Lamiaceae
Solanaceae
Tamaricaceae
Senecio anteuphorbia
Lavandula multifida
Withania frutescens
Tamarix gallica
Succulent stems
Dominant succulent in community
Large green flowered shrub in stream bed
Pink flowered shrub
Wednesday 6th March - Anti-Atlas and Ait-Baha
Asclepiadaceae
Asclepiadaceae
Asclepiadaceae
Calotropis procera
Caralluma europaea
Caralluma munbyana
Asphodelaceae
Convolvulaceae
Euphorbiaceae
Fabaceae
Asphodelus fistulosus
Convolvulus trabutianus
Acacia gummifera
Fabaceae
Hesperolaburnum platycarpum
Fabaceae
Lamiaceae
Lamiaceae
Lamiaceae
Asparagaceae
Pteridaceae
Rhamnaceae
Sapotaceae
Scrophulariceae
Genista tricuspidata
Lavandula mairei var. antiatlantica
Lavandula multifida
Salvia aegyptica
Urginea maritima
Cheilanthes vellea
Zizyphus lotus
Argania spinosa
Nanorrhinum heterophylla
First stop for this Saharan plant
Square stemmed species seen after lunch
spotted stemmed species at lunch stop
Small-flowered and much branched inflorescence common
Moroccan endemic - spiny shrub
Forming rock garden
Moroccan endemic - common yellow flowered pea
shrub, stems used for weaving
Yellow gorse-like shrub
Moroccan endemic - Anti-Atlas
Small flowered herb
Leaves only
In rock crevices
Large trees viewed on plain
Yellow flowered climbing toadflax
Thursday 7th March - High Atlas to Cascades du Immouzer
Apocyanceae
Asclepediaceae
Asclepediaceae
Asclepediaceae
Nerium oleander
Caralluma europaea
Caralluma munbyana
Periploca angustifolia
Oleander with pink flowers - in river bed at Cascades
Scrambling plant
22
Compositae
Asteraceae
Andryala maroccana
Artemisia herba-alba
Moroccan endemic - Yellow flowered
Grey leaved sub shrub
Crassulaceae
Crassulaceae
Cupressaceae
Fagaceae
Globulariaceae
Lamiaceae
Lamiaceae
Lamiaceae
Fabaceae
Fabaceae
Asparagaceae
Oleaceae
Palmae
Pinaceae
Sedum modestum
Umbilicus horizontalis
Tetraclinis articulata
Quercus ilex
Globularia alypum
Lavandula dentata var. dentata
Lavandula maroccana
Lavandula multifida
Chamaecytisus mollis
Cytisus arboreus
Scilla latifolia
Olea europaea
Chamaerops humilis var. cerasifera
Pinus halepensis
Moroccan endemic - Wall by Argan co-operative in
Immouzer
Wall by Argan co-operative in Immouzer
Thuya de Bérbérie
Trees restricted to top of pass following red shales
Blue flowered sub-shrub
Shrub with bracts at top of flower
Moroccan endemic to High Atlas
A few plants at one stop
White flowered and scented shrub - common
Yellow flowered broom
bottle brush like flower spike
Olive
Glaucous leaved variant of dwarf fan palm
Planted
Polygala balansae
Zizyphus lotus
Prunus dulcis
Argania spinosa
Moroccan endemic to High & Anti Atlas. Purple and
yellowed flowered spiny bush Spiny shrub - used for hedging
Almond
Argan
Polygalaceae
Rhamnaceae
Rosaceae
Sapotaceae
23

March 2014 - Wildlife Travel

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