Review 20150630 - Right On! Replicas

Transcription

Right On Replicas, LLC Step-by-Step Review 20150630*
Royal Rail Show Rod 1:24 Scale AMT Model Kit #630 Review
First released in 1972, AMT's zany Royal Rail show rod is back! It's a wild ride for all the Kingdom's Koolest
Kats! Featuring an injected motor with "hear ye! Trumpet" intakes, hyper-wide "gumball" slicks, super long
chrome forks, this deluxe dragger can beat all the village wagons! Royal Rail's "crowning achievement" is
it's cozy "fit for a king" interior, sporting a psychedelic "pop-bottle glass" rear window, "aristo-Kat pillow
seat" and slick shifter, all "topped off" by a crazy deluxe cruisin' crown! This kit was one of three released in
1972 when the Show Rod/Chopper Trike craze was in full swing for modelers. The other two kits are Gypsy
Wagon and Hemi Hauler. In 2009 Round2 brought the Royal Rail back as a Retro Deluxe version to
include new parts, decals and a Mini Box display box.
For the Modeler: This is a review of the Royal Rail in 1/25 scale Re-released (Re-Popped) by Round2
under the AMT brand. It is still widely available through online model kit retailers. This is a Retro Deluxe
version with all the original parts plus new parts and an expanded decal sheet. The kit has over 90 parts
molded in White, Chrome, Clear, Clear Blue and Clear Orange, Plastic and Vinyl tires and a Metal axle.
Round2 lists this as a Skill Level 2 build for the intermediate modeler. The kit includes a nicely designed
Right On Replicas, LLC ©2015 All rights reserved. *All registered trademarks are the property of their respective brands
Follow the manufacturer’s safety recommendations for any product mentioned here.
Hemi motor but does lack many detail parts on the motor. The interior is simply a pillow seat and wheel.
The body is comprised of multiple parts and as a Show Rod; it is not a practical vehicle. There is a lot of
chrome in this build and unfortunately you do get some mold lines on parts that would look better without
them, to fix this would require stripping and re-chroming or painting. The overall build size is: Length: 9”,
Width: 5-1/4”, Height: 6-1/2”.
BUILDING CAVIATS: Having organization and a proper work area is important if you want to build a model
properly. But even without dedicated space a place to leave your build while you work is necessary. Being
able to lay out your parts organized helps the build as you are not digging for parts in the box possibly
losing or damaging them. Also you really should have a place to let painted parts cure.
Throughout the review you will find OPTIONAL IDEAS that I suggest. These are completely your choice.
Not doing these steps will in no way affect the build, they are just ways to offer some personal and custom
touches to your builds. OPTIONS will be noted. One of the best parts of model building is using your
imagination to create the car YOU want! Unless you are building a “Factory Stock” or a “Replica” car your
choices of color and build options is completely up to you. The instruction give recommendations but you
are free to substitute whatever options you want. There is no “Wrong way” to build your kit! Have fun and
enjoy your hobby. Review the instruction sheet thoroughly to get familiar with the assembly sequence.
Decide your color scheme in advance and your custom options so you can build accordingly.
PIC 1 This is the box art for this kit as released in the Retro Deluxe 2009 version. Unless otherwise stated
I use Testors Tube Glue (Orange Tube) for assembly of the parts.
Other adhesives used in the construction are Superglue and Elmer’s
White Glue. Paints consist of Testors Enamel or Tamiya Acrylic bottle
paints and different brands of “Rattle can” spray paints. The body is
finished using 1:1 automotive use paint products shot with an airbrush.
One of the major benefits of using automotive paint is a very fast
drying time. You can get just as good results using Spray can products
but they require a longer drying time. Automotive paint is FULLY cured
in less than an hour and clear about 6 hours. Use a good quality
airbrush to paint automotive products because Lacquer Thinner will
destroy the cheaper ones quickly. Assembly paint colors may vary from instructions as I use simplified
colors that most model builders should have on hand. Before beginning your build soak and wash your
parts with a mild detergent like DAWN to remove any mold release agents and help with paint adhesion.
Note to remember: Always follow the Manufacturer’s Safety and Use Guidelines when using any of the
products mentioned in the review for your own protection.
PIC 2 PIC 3 Here are the new version decals for this build. You get quite a selection of details and other
than a few purpose specific decals; placement is your option. In fact there are no directions or photos in the
directions for decal placement. Round2 decals have very thin carriers and placement is easy as they float
quickly and adhere smooth. I do recommend using a setting solution to ease placement. I use Microscale
Industries products as they seem to work with all the decal brands I have used.
PIC 4 PIC 5 Here are the motor parts to start assembly. I will partially assemble the motor for painting.
Assemble the block halves and heads. Paint the block the color of your choice, I did a Plum. The
transmission is Aluminum. Paint the header manifolds Aluminum and install with Superglue. The belt is Flat
Black and the fan is Black. Attach those in place. Add the valve covers and Velocity stack intakes with
Superglue.
PIC 6 PIC 7 OPTIONAL: I wanted to do a little extra detail so I will wire this motor. I used a prewired
distributor for this add on. While there are many different brands on the market and quality and accuracy
varies, I recommend you research and find ones you are happy with in your price range. Using a Hemi
wiring diagram I will wire the motor. First drill out the hole for the shaft. Paint the shaft Steel and install it
with superglue. Drill out the locations on the valve covers. Cut a small part of the Black wire for boots and
slide it on each wire. Match the wires up to the diagram and cut to fit. Slide each wire into place with the
boot at the hole to make it look correct. Superglue all the wires in place.
PIC 8 PIC 9 Finish the motor assembly with Superglue. There are decals for the tops of the headers.
Add the headers in place on the motor. Paint the air filters Black and attach the ends to the filter tubes and
install on top of the velocity stacks.
PIC 10 PIC 11 The rear tires are assembled now. There are two tire halves. The outside has writing on
it, the inside does not. Superglue the tires together. The chrome rim goes to the outside. The Center rim is
painted Silver and installed from the back. The rear rim is Flat Black. NOTE: The rims did not fit into the
tires properly and need a bit of sanding on the outer sides to thin them a little. Do this slowly as not to
damage the rims or remove too much.
PIC 12 PIC 13 Complete the front tires now. Remove the center webbing from the tires. Superglue the
rim front and rears off-center to each other so there is a crossing of the spokes when viewed from the side.
NOTE: The chassis is assembled as one unit in the instructions. I have broken it down into three subassemblies that will be completed into the full chassis. This will allow you to assemble it easier and have a
stronger build as the chassis is not very solid.
PIC 14
Start with the forks. Paint the drag link Black. Choose your lens color.
PIC 15 Install the lens into the housing and add the housing in place on the light stalk. I used Superglue.
Add the side panels with Superglue. Assemble the expansion tank and add that. Add the wheels. Install the
drag link and add the light stalk. Set this aside.
PIC 16 PIC 17 Build the rear axle. Assemble the axle halves and paint Flat Black. Install the rear cover
and shocks. Slide the metal axle into the rear axle and add the rear tires to each side. Set this aside.
PIC 18 PIC 19 The frame is built using Superglue. Attach the front and rear cross members then add
the lower cross member to one side of the frame. Add the other frame side and make sure the frame is
straight. Add frame supports to each side. Paint this unit your frame color of choice. I did Gold. Install the
motor. Set this aside.
PIC 20 The suspension is assembled with Superglue at this point. Install the rear axle connecting the
driveshaft in place. Attach the forks in place on the front of the frame.
PIC 21 Start the interior. Paint the steering wheel rim
Black with Aluminum spokes. The shifter is Aluminum
with a White knob. The Pillow is your color choice. The
frame supports are Frame color. The interior and steering
arm is Flat Black.
PIC 22 The fuel
tank is assembled
and painted
Aluminum. Add the
tank cap and install
the fuel tank to the
bottom. Install the
steering arm. Add
the steering wheel,
shifter and pillow.
The frame
supports go along
the opening in the
interior to the back
of the interior.
Install this unit into
the chassis.
NOTE: The body
will be built in two
steps here instead
of the one in the
instructions.
PIC 23 PIC 24 The body is started. Choose the rear window you want to use. Paint the window frame
the color of your chassis frame. Install the window. Paint the tail lights Stop Light Red and install on the
window frame rear. As there are no positive attachment points put them on each corner. Superglue the
window frame to the interior.
PIC 25 I used Superglue for construction of the entire crown. Assemble the crown halves and the ball
halves. These will be painted the color of your choice. Normally I would need to sand and primer these
parts. As I used a water base paint as a base, so all I needed to do was scuff the parts and paint the base
Plum color. I then used a Clear Coat with Purple Pearl Powder added in. Assemble the crown to the base.
Add the rib connector and ribs to the crown and base. The crown ball sits in the rib connector with the cross
on top. This is installed as a unit onto the window frame.
PIC 26 Choose the decals you wish to add and do so now. Body Decaling and Finishing: After you have
your base coat on the car you are ready to decal it. Remember decals lay better on a GLOSS surface and
will not adhere properly on a FLAT surface. If you decal a flat surface you get what is called SILVERING of
the decals, or the look that they are not adhered, as air is trapped under the decal. Clean your work area
good so no dust or grunge from building and sanding gets under your decals. Pick the decals you want to
work with and plan out how the best way to lay them out without handling previously laid decals will be. I try
either a Front to Back or Top to Bottom approach doing one side at a time then the front and rear of the car
in steps giving the decals time to set and dry in place before handling it again. Once you have a plan of
action cut your first decal as close to the edge of the outermost color as possible. Once trimmed place the
decal into warm water and let it get soft until it “Floats” loosely on the carrier paper. Microscale Industries
has a product set called Micro-Set and Micro-Sol. The purpose is to soften the decals to help them conform
to the contours of the body and lay smooth. To apply Micro Set, use a soft brush and apply Micro Set to the
part where you are going to apply the decal. Next apply the decal as normal. Use a small pointed tip
synthetic bristle brush and carefully position the decal. Blot the decal carefully with a Q-tip or paper towel
so as not to move it and allow it to dry. For a tougher decals apply Micro-Sol with a small flat brush on to
the decal. Apply with as few strokes as possible so as not to disturb the decal. As the decal dries slowly
work any creases or blemishes in the decal out with a Q-tip or damp paper towel. Work slowly as not to
damage the decal. A second coat of Micro-Sol can be added if needed. Now continue this process until all
the decals for that area are done, wait for them to set and continue the rest of the car.
PIC 27
PIC 28 Overall a neat looking build from the front and back.
PIC 29 Depending on your use of decals and color of windows you will have leftovers. There is also a
leftover air cleaner for the motor that is specifically called out in the instructions as not used.
OVERALL IMPRESSIONS: This is a great little build, although the chassis assembly is a tad touchy and
feels unstable it is solid enough. I would see this as more of a Skill Level 3 kit because attaching the parts
requires Superglue and a little more advanced building techniques. Overall the premise is very neat, this is
a show rod and Trike and was made in the time period that exacting mechanical details were not required
to make a “Cool” model. The motor could be so much better. There are limited details: for instance, no
front cover, no oil filter, no starter, no radiator and no water pump.
This is more of a motorcycle by design, but there is no defined
steering linkage. The chassis is fragile in the center and all the weight
is in the back, care in handling is essential. But still, this is just a fun
build! Take your time and assemble it slowly and you will end up with
a very nice model. While it is cool and the build unique I do rate this
as an 8 on the 1 to 10 scale. I feel the chassis assembly is a little
more advanced than a Skill Level 2 and could frustrate a lesser
experienced builder.

Review 20150630 - Right On! Replicas

Transcription

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