Review 20141210 - Right On! Replicas

Transcription

Right On Replicas, LLC Step-by-Step Review 20141210*
LST (Landing Ship Tank) 1:245 Scale Lindberg Model Kit #HL213 Review
The LST, or Landing Ship Tank, was originally developed in World War II as a way of transporting tanks
and trucks. LSTs first saw action in the Pacific theatre, and were extensively used in the 1944 D-Day
landings by both British and American forces. By the end of the war the LST would find its way into every
theater of the war serving as troop and vehicle transports, repair and supply ships, and even launching
aircraft! Known to its crews as the “Large Slow Target”, the LSTs were 328 feet long and sailed at only 9
knots! LST's were built by shipyards across the US, including many that were sailed down the Ohio and
Mississippi Rivers to the sea! The defensive armament of LSTs varied but was usually a mix of 40mm and
20mm AA guns sometimes with a 3" gun at the stern. The LST was designed to run up onto the beach and
then pull itself off by winching in an anchor dropped off the stern. It could hold tanks and trucks both inside
and up on deck. Originally the ships used an electric elevator to access the deck but later ships used a
ramp. There was also a cargo hatch in the deck forward of the aft superstructure for additional access
below. LST's were equipped with two or more LCVP's hung from davits on deck to aid in landing troops.
They were designed to carry a 114' LCT on deck, which was slipped off by tipping the LST to one side!
Today the USS LST Memorial, located in Mobile, Alabama, has a fully restored LST and museum.
For the Modeler: This review covers the Round 2 “The Lindberg Line” kit #HL213. It is a 1:245 Scale
Landing Ship Tank (LST) from the World War II D-Day invasion. The kit has over 185 parts molded in Gray
with a roll of black thread and waterslide decals. This is a Skill Level 2 for the moderate builder as it
requires glue. It is a Re-release (Re-Pop) of the original Lindberg kit and contains all the original parts.
Lindberg previously offer this in a motorized version. This kit has seen multiple box arts and even been
issued under different brands in the past. The hull is a single piece with the deck in two parts. Many of the
details are small so take care as you assemble it. There is an updated set of decals that include FIVE
different versions that can be assembled. I chose to build LST 325 which actually landed at Omaha Beach
on D-Day and is now berthed at Evansville, IN as a memorial museum. Overall dimensions of the kit are
Length: 16”, Width: 2”, Height: 6” on the stand to the top of the mast.
Right On Replicas, LLC ©2014 All rights reserved. *All registered trademarks are the property of their respective brands.
Follow the manufacturer’s safety recommendations for any product mentioned here.
BUILDING CAVIATS: Having organization and a proper work area is important if you want to build a model
properly. But even without dedicated space a place to leave your build while you work is necessary. Being
able to lay out your parts organized helps the build as you are not digging for parts in the box possibly
losing or damaging them. Also you really should have a place to let painted parts cure.
Throughout the review you will find OPTIONAL IDEAS that I suggest. These are completely your choice.
Not doing these steps will in no way affect the build, they are just ways to offer some personal and custom
touches to your builds. OPTIONS will be noted. One of the best parts of model building is using your
imagination to create the build YOU want! Unless you are building a “Replica” of a certain ship your choices
of color and build options is completely up to you. The instruction give recommendations but you are free to
substitute whatever options you want. There is no “Wrong way” to build your kit! Have fun and enjoy your
hobby. Review the instruction sheet thoroughly to get familiar with the assembly sequence. Decide your
color scheme in advance and your custom options so you can build accordingly.
PIC 1 This is the box art for this kit
as released in the Round 2 LLC’s
2014 version. Unless otherwise
stated I use Testors Tube Glue
(Orange Tube) for assembly of the
parts. Other adhesives used in the
construction are Superglue and
Elmer’s White Glue. Paints consist
of Testors Enamel or Acrylic bottle
paints and “Rattle can” spray paints.
Assembly paint colors may vary
from instructions as I use simplified colors that most model builders should have on hand. Before beginning
your build soak and wash your parts with a mild detergent like DAWN to remove any mold release agents
and help with paint adhesion. Note to remember: Always follow the Manufacturer’s Safety and Use
Guidelines when using any of the products mentioned in the review for your own protection.
PIC 2 PIC 3 Here is the Decal sheet and Flag sheet. Note five versions of the ship can be built as well as
American Flags with both 48 and 50 stars for an accurate build. These are typical of Round 2 decals, good
quality with sharp detail. The decal has a small carrier and floats easily with a smooth transfer and setting. I
do recommend a Setting solution if you are going to use the decals over a rough surface or contours. I use
Micro-Set and Micro-Sol. The flags are paper and will need to be cut out and folded over the thread. They
will be glued together with Elmer’s White Glue.
Note: The instructions are a tri-fold 8.5x11 that has the complete build assembly on the inner three sheets
with a total build plan of 12 steps. The front page is a Black and White of the finished kit and all the
prerequisite warnings in multiple languages. The back two pages are detailed paint callouts for all five
versions. As you build, remember that the paint callouts are in the back of the instructions. The instructions
do denote parts to omit for different versions, mostly the MV Highway 16 is different so watch for those and
refer to the leftover parts photo at the end of the review here. Paint and decals choices are the only
variations for the four versions.
PIC 4 PIC 5 Prior to painting the hull the rudders need to be installed. The anchor and anchor port are
painted and added after the overall hull is painted. Note on the bottom of the hull there is a hole between
the rudders. This was a leftover from the motorized version and can be filled. The rails on the side have no
positive attachment points and the instructions do not clearly specify location of attachment. I researched
and chose to install them on the third panel line from the top and the rear attachment even with the rudder
mounting post. To paint the hull the US Navy used Norfolk 65-A Antifouling Red during the WWII era. A
good alternative and close match is Red Oxide Primer.
PIC 6
Paint the hull Red Oxide Primer.
PIC 7
hull.
Once cured tape off the color line for the Black stripe and Mask the bottom. Paint Black on the
PIC 8 When cured, tape off the upper line and paint the hull Neutral Gray. Note on the hull there is no
marking as to where the lines are on the ship for different colors, and based on reference photos it varied
ship to ship and it even varied based on re-painting the ships hulls. Colors also varied on references based
on age, paint variations, and use.
PIC 9 PIC 10 The anchor port and
anchor are installed in place, there is a
small location marked on the hull for the
port. The port is Brass with a Black
anchor. The blades are Brass and added
in place now also.
PIC 11 The deck is painted a Dark Gray and
PIC 12 Install the deck in place on the hull.
PIC 13 Start with the bow components now. All the parts are painted the same neutral gray as the hull.
Paint the guns Flat Black. Note the parts do have a good deal of FLASH that needs to be cleaned off. The
easiest way is with a sharp #11 blade and carefully trim it off.
PIC 14 When placing the parts there are
no positive attachment points for them just
a slight location detail on the deck.
Assemble the gun turrets by adding the
mount into the turret. Add the single guns
to the small mount and the twin gun to the
larger turret. The turrets go in place on the
bow. Assemble the ramp winch and plate
and add it to the deck. Add the ramp in
place. The bow rails are installed on the
front of the bow. Attach the small plates in
place. Add the anchor winch in place. Add
the control boxes in place.
PIC 15 PIC 16 The mid deck is assembled next. All parts are painted Neutral Gray. Add the 27 deck pads
in place, there are small marks on the deck for their locations. Add the 10 pylons in place. Add the 12 vent
tubes in place.
PIC 17 PIC 18 The aft deck section is started now. All parts are Neutral Gray and the roof sections are
Dark Gray. The propeller is Brass and the anchor Black. DECALS 24 and 25 go on the lower section sides
and DECAL 26 on the top section front to create ports and hatches. Attach the winch to the winch plate and
add that to the deck. Add the small winches in place. Add the vents in place. Add the small plates in place.
Install the 8 pylons to the deck. Add the rear battery room. Install the upper section to the lower section and
install that unit to the deck. Add the anchor and propeller to the back wall of the lower section. The large
vent goes on the lower section back and the small vent to the top section corner.
PIC 19 PIC 20 The aft deck is finished now. Paint all the parts Neutral Gray. The guns and anchor are Flat
Black. Assemble the four small turrets by adding the mount to the turret and then the single gun on the
mount. Do the same with the large turret using the twin gun. On the large turret plank add the antenna
array with the antenna. The small turrets are mounted on the lower structure roof on each corner. The large
turret is added to the battery room and the plank to the roof. On the lower structure roof add the small pylon
the main mast and small mast. On the upper structure roof add the lookout with a ladder to it. Add a ladder
to the lower roof up to the upper structure and the deck to the lower roof. On the back of the ship add the
anchor guide and the anchor.
PIC 21 The landing craft needs to be
assembled next. Paint all parts Neutral Gray.
Install the davits to the ship on both sided.
PIC 22 DECAL the landing craft with the proper choice
for your build: LST-325 uses DECALS 16, 17, 18, 22 and
23. LST-393 uses DECAL 19, 20, 21, 22 and 23. Add
the ramp to the craft and add the craft to the davit.
PIC 23
Paint the rail posts Neutral Gray
PIC 24 Install them to the deck. Once
they are cured well add the thread to
make the side rail chain.
PIC 25 With the thread carefully attach to one end of the line of rails string along the rails into the slots. Do
two lines per side. Go behind the Landing Craft davits with the thread.
PIC 26 Decaling and Finishing: After you have
your base coat on you are ready to decal it.
Remember decals lay better on a GLOSS
surface and will not adhere properly on a FLAT
surface. If you decal a flat surface you get what is
called SILVERING of the decals, or the look that
they are not adhered, as air is trapped under the
decal. Clean your work area good so no dust or
grunge from building and sanding gets under
your decals. Pick the decals you want to work
with and plan out how the best way to lay them
out without handling previously laid decals will
be. I try either a Front to Back or Top to Bottom
approach doing one side at a time then the front
and rear of the ship in steps giving the decals
time to set and dry in place before handling it
again. Once you have a plan of action cut your
first decal as close to the edge of the outermost
color as possible. Once trimmed place the decal into warm water and let it get soft until it “Floats” loosely
on the carrier paper. Microscale Industries has a product set called Micro-Set and Micro-Sol. The purpose
is to soften the decals to help them conform to the contours of the parts and lay smooth. To apply Micro
Set, use a soft brush and apply Micro Set to the part where you are going to apply the decal. Next apply the
decal as normal. Use a small pointed tip synthetic bristle brush and carefully position the decal. Blot the
decal carefully with a Q-tip or paper towel so as not to move it and allow it to dry. For a tougher decals
apply Micro-Sol with a small flat brush on to the decal. Apply with as few strokes as possible so as not to
disturb the decal. As the decal dries slowly work any creases or blemishes in the decal out with a Q-tip or
damp paper towel. Work slowly as not to damage the decal. A second coat of Micro-Sol can be added if
needed. Now continue this process until all the decals for that area are done, wait for them to set and
continue the rest of the decals.
PIC 27 Tie the thread to the mast and down to the
antenna array. There is a 48 star flag and 50 star
flag for either time period. Plus there are some
signal flags you can add.
PIC 28
The life boats are painted Flat Black.
PIC 29 Add them to the deck leaning
against the edge rails around the ship.
PIC 30 The final item is the stand. Assemble the
stand and paint it whatever color you choose.
PIC 31 You can highlight the print in a contrasting color. I did this one in Flat Black and Silver lettering. The
finished ship sits on the stand without glue.
PIC 32 There are some parts left over, the inner frame work for the motorized version and some extra
smaller parts that were excess in case you lost or damaged a part. Also there will be excess decals and
flags you do not use.
999 OVERALL IMPRESSIONS
Cons: Lindberg didn’t intend for this to be super detailed and the hull and superstructure has very little in
the way of features and the gun turret thickness, and many smaller parts are chunky and over scale. It was
originally designed as a motorized toy meant for play by children. As such, it couldn’t be really loaded with
fine features to withstand the rigors of the bathtub let alone be finished at all intended for a 10 year old to
accomplish. The LSTs usually used a mix of 40mm and 20mm guns sometimes with a 3" gun at the stern
but Lindberg's kit is armed entirely with twin and single mount 40mm guns, representing a post-war design,
so building a D-Day version would take some additional changes.
Pros: You can find this kit at hobby shops and online retailers at a very attractive price. The subject matter
is great and with some work you could make this into a credible D-Day version of this venerable workhorse.
With a few of these kits, an easily affordable invasion diorama could be built as well. The instructions make
the construction straight-forward and it has a nice shelf appearance to take its place in your WWII lineup.
The basic shape seems to be right, and like many Lindberg kits it is a larger scale allowing plenty of
detailing work to be added easily. The fact this is a single part hull allows it to be motorized still. Overall
build quite easy. The parts are small and can be time consuming but not overly difficult. I would replace the
Black thread with a Gray thread for the railings as it is more accurate
and an easy substitution. The multiple versions allow you to
replicate two different ships throughout their service which is nice.
Once finished the ship really does look good. Even the builder that
seldom does ship models can assemble this and get a nice looking
build. Fairly simple and straight forward this can be a weekend
project. On a scale of 1 to 10, I rated this one an 8. I base this on
the fact it assembled nicely and looks good finished even if it is a bit
simplified and has some minor inaccuracies.

Review 20141210 - Right On! Replicas

Transcription

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