Beijing 9 - Contents

Transcription

Beijing 9 - Contents
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Beijing
“ All you’ve got to do is decide to go
and the hardest part is over.
So go!”
TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Daniel McCrohan, David Eimer
Contents
Plan
PlanYour
YourTrip
Trip
Welcome to
Běijīng...............................4
Běijīng’s Top 13................6
What’s New .................... 15
Need to Know ................ 16
page
1
4
Top Itineraries ............... 18
For Free ..........................29
If You Like ...................... 20
Eating .......................... 30
Month by Month ............23
Drinking & Nightlife .. 40
With Kids ........................26
Entertainment............ 42
Like a Local ....................27
Shopping..................... 44
46
Explore Běijīng
Neighbourhoods
at a Glance .................. 48
Temple of Heaven Park
& Dōngchéng South..... 104
The Summer Palace
& Hǎidiàn ...................... 154
Forbidden City &
Dōngchéng Central .......50
Běihǎi Park &
Xīchéng North ..............114
The Great Wall ............. 166
Drum Tower &
Dōngchéng North .........80
Dashilar &
Xīchéng South ............. 128
Sānlǐtún & Cháoyáng...136
Understand Běijīng
Historic Hútòng .......... 220
History ......................... 204
Arts ...............................226
Transport .....................242
Běijīng Maps
Sleeping .....................188
201
Běijīng Today ...............202
Survival Guide
Day Trips
from Běijīng ...............180
Architecture .................237
241
Directory A–Z ............. 250
283
Language .....................263
YADID LEVY / GETTY IMAGES ©
TAO IMAGES LIMITED / GETTY IMAGES ©
JEN VOO PHOTOGRAPHY / GETTY ©
(left) Architectural
detail, Forbidden City
(p52)
(above) Hòuhǎi Lakes
area (p118)
(right) Sìchuān chicken
dish and steamed buns
(p36)
The Summer Palace
& Hǎidiàn
(p154)
Drum Tower &
Dōngchéng
North
(p80)
Běihǎi Park
& Xīchéng
Forbidden City
North
& Dōngchéng
(p114)
Central
(p50)
Dashilar &
Xīchéng South
(p128)
Sānlǐtún &
Cháoyáng
(p136)
Temple of
Heaven Park &
Dōngchéng South
(p104)
KRZYSZTOF DYDYNSKI / GETTY IMAGES ©
46
Explore
Běijīng
Neighbourhoods at a
Glance . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48
Forbidden City &
Dōngchéng Central . . 50
Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52
Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62
Běihǎi Park &
Xīchéng North. . . . . . 114
Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .116
Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .118
Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .121
Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 123
Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165
Sports & Activities . . . . . . . 165
The Great Wall. . . . . . 166
History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167
Ruin & Restoration . . . . . . . 167
Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126
Visiting the Wall . . . . . . . . . 168
Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 75
Dashilar &
Xīchéng South . . . . . 128
Jiànkòu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170
Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76
Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130
Sports & Activities . . . . . . . . 77
Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130
Zhuàngdàokǒu . . . . . . . . . . 172
Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69
Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . . 74
Drum Tower &
Dōngchéng North . . . .80
Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82
Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 132
Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133
Mùtiányù . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168
Huánghuā Chéng . . . . . . . .171
Sīmǎtái . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173
Jīnshānlǐng . . . . . . . . . . . . . .174
Bādálǐng . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175
Hiking the Great Wall . . . . . 178
Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86
Sānlǐtún &
Cháoyáng . . . . . . . . . . 136
Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88
Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138
Drinking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94
Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139
Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 97
Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140
Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99
Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 144
Sports & Activities . . . . . . . 102
Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 147
Tánzhè Temple &
Jiètái Temple . . . . . . . . . . . . 183
Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148
Hóngluó Temple . . . . . . . . . 187
Sports, Activities
& Courses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149
Sleeping . . . . . . . . . . . 188
Temple of Heaven Park
& Dōngchéng
South . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104
Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109
The Summer Palace
& Hǎidiàn . . . . . . . . . . 154
Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110
Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156
Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . .112
Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158
Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .113
Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .161
Sports & Activities . . . . . . . .113
Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 164
Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106
Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 164
Day Trips from
Běijīng . . . . . . . . . . . . 180
Ming Tombs . . . . . . . . . . . . . .181
Chuāndǐxià . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182
47
BĚIJĪNG’S
TOP SIGHTS
Forbidden City ...................52
Tiān’ānmén Square ......... 60
Lama Temple .....................82
Drum Tower ...................... 84
Bell Tower...........................85
Temple of
Heaven Park ....................106
Běihǎi Park........................116
798 Art District ................138
Summer Palace ..............156
28 3
Běijīng
Maps
Map Legend
Sights
Sleeping
Beach
Buddhist
Castle
Christian
Hindu
Islamic
Jewish
Monument
Museum/Gallery
Ruin
Winery/Vineyard
Zoo
Other Sight
Eating
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Drinking & Nightlife
Cafe
Entertainment
Entertainment
Shopping
Shopping
Sports & Activities
Diving/Snorkelling
Canoeing/Kayaking
Skiing
Surfing
Swimming/Pool
Walking
Windsurfing
Other Sports &
Activities
Sleeping
Camping
Information
Bank
Embassy/
Consulate
Hospital/Medical
Internet
Police
Post Office
Telephone
Toilet
Tourist Information
Other Information
Transport
Airport
Border Crossing
Bus
Cable Car/Funicular
Cycling
Ferry
Monorail
Parking
S-Bahn
Taxi
Train/Railway
Tram
Tube Station
U-Bahn
Underground
Train Station
Other Transport
Routes
Geographic
Tollway
Hut/Shelter
Lighthouse
Lookout
Mountain/Volcano
Oasis
Park
Pass
Picnic Area
Waterfall
Freeway
Primary
Secondary
Tertiary
Lane
Unsealed Road
Plaza/Mall
Steps
Hydrography
River/Creek
Intermittent River
Swamp/Mangrove
Reef
Canal
Water
Dry/Salt/
Intermittent Lake
Glacier
Tunnel
Pedestrian
Overpass
Walking Tour
Walking Tour
Detour
Path
Boundaries
International
State/Province
Disputed
Regional/Suburb
Marine Park
Cliff
Wall
Areas
Beach/Desert
Cemetery
(Christian)
Cemetery (Other)
Park/Forest
Sportsground
Sight (Building)
Top Sight
(Building)
10 Wǔdàokǒu (p303)
9 Summer Palace (p302)
8 Sānlǐtún & Cháoyáng (p298)
7 Hǎidiàn (p297)
6 Dashilar & Xīchéng South
(p296)
5 Běihǎi Park & Xīchéng North
(p294)
4 Temple of Heaven Park &
Dōngchéng South (p292)
3 Drum Tower & Dōngchéng
North (p290)
2 Forbidden City (p288)
1 Dōngchéng Central (p286)
MAP INDEX
Kūnmíng
Lake
"
Ð
9
"
Ð
7
WǓDÀOKǑU
Yùyuāntán
Park
Yǒngding
River
HǍIDIÀN
Zīzhúyuán
Park
"
Ð
10
Grand View
Garden
"
Ð
6
XĪDĀN
0
0
0
0
0
00
0
Táorántíng
Park
DŌNGCHÉNG
SOUTH
5 km
2.5 miles
Rìtán
Park
Tonghui River
CHÁOYÁNG
ma
"
Ð
8
Lianger
Riv
Cháoyáng
Park
SĀNLǏTÚN
Xiba
River
Lóngtán
Park
Běijīng
Amusement
Park
"
Ð
4
Temple of
Heaven Park
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
QIÁNMÉN
00
0
0
0
Jǐngshān
Park
"
Ð
2
DŌNGCHÉNG
CENTRAL
00
"
Ð
1
DŌNGCHÉNG
NORTH
Qīngnián Dìtán
Hú Park Park
Hucheng River
(City Moat)
DASHILAR
Nánhǎi
Lake
Zhōnghǎi
Lake
Běihǎi
Park
XĪCHÉNG
Xīhǎi
Lake
Hòuhǎi
Lake
HÒUHǍI
Xuānwū
Art Garden
"
Ð
5
"
Ð
3
Liuyin
Park
e
# 00
28 4
28 5
DŌNGCHÉNG CENTRAL
ý Entertainment
(p75) ï Transport
35 Capital Theatre ..........................................D3
72 Bĕijīng Hub of Tourist Dispatch............... B7
36 Cháng'ān Grand Theatre ......................... G6
73 CITS - international train tickets..............G6
DŌNGCHÉNG CENTRAL
æ Top Sights
(p52)
Star City ............................................(see 42)
Forbidden City ...........................................B3
37 What? Bar .................................................. A4
Front Gate (Zhèngyáng Gate Arrow
Tower) .....................................................B7 þ Shopping
(p76)
Front Gate (Zhèngyáng Gate) ..................B7
38 Arts & Crafts Emporium...........................D5
Tiān'ānmén Square...................................B6
39 Foreign Languages Bookstore.................D4
40 Háoyuán Market........................................ D5
æ Sights
(p62)
41 New China Children's Store .....................D4
1 Ancient Observatory ................................ H6
42 Oriental Plaza ............................................ D5
2 Běijīng Police Museum..............................C7
43 Ten Fu's Tea ..............................................D5
3 Běijīng Wángfǔjǐng Paleolithic Museum ..D5
4 Chairman Mao Memorial Hall...................B7 Ø Sports & Activities
(p77)
5 China Art Museum ....................................D2
44 Bike Běijīng ................................................D3
Courtyard Gallery ............................ (see 20)
45 Dragonfly Therapeutic Retreat................C4
6 Dōng'ān Mén Remains ..............................C4
46 Jǐngshān Table Tennis Park ..................... B2
7 Foreign Legation Quarter .........................C7
47 Mílún Kungfu School.................................D4
Former French Post Office ............. (see 28)
8 Hóng Lóu....................................................C2 ÿ Sleeping
(p191)
9 Imperial Granaries..................................... G1
48 Běijīng City Central International
10 Lao She Museum...................................... D4
Youth Hostel........................................... F6
11 Legation Quarter .......................................C7
49 Běijīng Saga International Youth
12 Monument to the People's Heroes ..........B6
Hostel ...................................................... F4
13 National Museum of China .......................C6
50 City Walls Courtyard..................................B1
14 Poly Art Museum....................................... G1
51 Côté Cour................................................... F3
15 St Joseph's Church .................................. D4
52 Emperor ..................................................... C3
16 Zhìhuà Temple.......................................... G4
53 Grand Hyatt ............................................... E5
54 Hilton Běijīng Wángfǔjǐng .........................D4
ú Eating
(p69)
55 Hotel Kapok ...............................................C4
17 Běijīng Dàdǒng Roast Duck Restaurant .. F4
56 Jìngyuán Hotel...........................................D4
18 Běijīng Dàdǒng Roast Duck Restaurant .. G1
57 Nánjīng Great Hotel ..................................D4
19 Chuān Bàn..................................................G5
58 Park Plaza.................................................. E4
20 Courtyard...................................................C4
59 Peninsula ................................................... E4
21 Crescent Moon Muslim Restaurant..........F1
60 Raffles Běijīng............................................D6
22 Dōnghuámén Night Market ..................... D4
61 Red Capital Residence............................... F1
23 Dōngzi Lǘròu Huǒshāo ............................. F4
62 Red Wall Garden........................................ F4
24 Grandma's Kitchen....................................C5
63 Regent Běijīng ........................................... E4
25 Hángzhōu Xiǎochī .....................................A4
26 Home Sweet Home ................................... F4 ï Information
27 Jiānbing Savoury Pancake Vendor .......... G1
64 Bag Storage for Chairman Mao
28 Jìngyuán Chuāncài ....................................D7
Memorial Hall ......................................... B7
29 Lǎo Zhái Yuàn ............................................D2
65 Bank of China ............................................D4
30 Temple .......................................................C2
66 Bank of China ............................................ E4
31 Tiāndì Yījiā..................................................C5
67 Běijīng Union Hospital .............................. E4
32 Wángfǔjǐng Snack Street ..........................D5
68 Běijīng Wángfǔjǐng Pharmaceutical
33 Zuǒ Lín Yòu Shè.........................................D2
Store........................................................D5
69 Citibank......................................................G6
û Drinking & Nightlife
(p74)
70 CITS............................................................ E4
34 Alley Coffee................................................B2
71 HSBC..........................................................G6
Yǐn ..................................................... (see 52)
Watson's ...........................................(see 42)
286
B
#
ú
#
ú
65
ì
#
ú
32 #
#
þ
#
â3
Changpu River Park
ÿ
# 60
¦
#
Dongchang'an Jie
#
¦
㸫
ϰ䭓ᅝ
Wangfujing
Tian'anmen East
⥟ᑰѩ
໽ᅝ䮼ϰ
w
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
00
00
00
00
0
0
0
Tiān'ānmén
00
0
00
00
00
00
00
0
0
0
0
0
0
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0
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Square
0
0
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0
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0
0
0
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0æ
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â 13
0
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0
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0
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00
00
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00
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0
St Michael's
0
0
FORMER FOREIGN
#
á
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
12
Church
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
LEGATION
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
#
Ü
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
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QUARTER
0
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64
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28
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in Xiang ϰѸ⇥
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0
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#
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Xijiaomin Xiang 0
æ
#
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0
0
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0
0
0
0
0
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0
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11
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
(Zhèngyáng
Gate)
0
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#
æ
dajie Chongwenmen Xidajie
Qianmen
0
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ianmen Dong
0
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See map
ࠡ䮼
00
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0
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0Gate Q ࠡ䮼ϰ໻㸫
Front
#
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0
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Tian'anmen West
໽ᅝ䮼㽓
Taijichang Dajie
ৄ෎ॖ໻㸫
ℷН䏃
i
j
p296
A
Hutong Neighbourhood
› æ
72 #
# (Zhèngyáng Gate
Arrow Tower)
B
C
0
!
42
Zhengyi Lu
7
#
ÿ
#Ø
56 47
Dong'anmen
Dajie
#
þ 41 54 ÿ
#
#
57 ÿ
55
þ
39 #
Drinks #
û
Stalls #
þ 43
Běijīng Tourist
#
ï
Information Center Shuaifuyuan
#
68 î
Hutong
þ
40#
#
þ 38
ÿ
#
Nanheyan Dajie
g
h
DŌNGCHÉNG CENTRAL
ie
31
22
⥟ᑰѩ໻㸫
Workers
Cultural
Palace
15
Ü
#
Chenguang Jie
45
ú
24 #
0
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â
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Dengshikou Xijie
♃Ꮦষ㽓㸫
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# 44
Ø
uamen
20 Dongh
Dajie
#
ú ϰढ䮼໻㸫 6 #
ä
Palace Moat
Zhōngshān
Park
Qihelou Jie
#
¦
â
5#
Dongsi Xidajie
Wangfujing Dajie
0
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Meishuguan Houjie
ÿ
#
National Art
Museum
(Meishuguan)
Liangguochang
Ё೑㕢ᴃ佚
҂ᵰॖ
Donghuangchenggen Nanjie
52
Nanchizi Dajie फ∴ᄤ໻㸫
㸫
Nanchang Jie फ䭓
ZHŌNGNÁNHǍI
Beiheyan Dajie ࣫⊇⊓໻㸫
Forbidden
City
#
æ
ú
25 #
Nánhǎi
Lake
#
â8
j
#
Da ð
i
s
Wu
#
ô
ý
37 #
5
34
#
ü
ú 33
#
#
ú 29
Beichizi Dajie
4
Jǐngshān
Park
ú
30 #
Jingshan Qianjie Ѩಯ໻㸫
Palace Moat
Beichang Jie ࣫䭓㸫
Zhōnghǎi
Lake
Nianzi
Hutong
See Forbidden City Map (p288)
Wenjin Jie
᭛⋹ 㸫
See map
p294
Ø
#
Jingshan Houjie
᱃ቅৢ㸫
Jingshan Dongjie
Běihǎi
Park
3
Jingshan Xijie
Jade
Islet
Huanghuamen Jie
咘㢅䮼㸫
#
50 ÿ
46
Zhangzizhong Lu
Donghuangchenggen Beijie
ϰⱛජḍ࣫㸫
Běihǎi
Lake
2
Di'anmennei Dajie
ഄᅝ䮼໪໻㸫
Gongjian Huton g
ᙁ ׁ㚵 ৠ
1
D
C
Di'anmen Dongdajie
#
¦ ഄᅝ䮼ϰ໻㸫
Nanluoguxiang
फ䫷哧Ꮛ
Shatanbei Jie
≭Ⓗ࣫㸫
A
Beihai North
#
¦ ࣫⍋࣫
Di'anmen Xidajie
㸫
໻
㽓
䮼
ഄᅝ
D
287
E
¦
#
F
G
Dongsishitiao Lu
#
27 ú
#
æ
ú
# 9
â
#
14
18
#
ð
ϰಯ࣫໻㸫
Dongsi Nandajie ϰಯफ໻㸫
Dengshikou
Dajie
ÿ
# 62
Oriental
Plaza
#
E
ÿ
48 #
#
¦
See map
p298
4
Guanghua Lu
5
# 36
#ý
69 ì
¦
#
ᓎ೑䮼‫ݙ‬໻㸫
Jianguomen
#
æ
#1
71 ì
ᓎ೑䮼
Běijīng Tourist
Information Center
#
ï
Beijingz han Dongjie
ᓎ೑䮼 ࣫໻㸫
i
j
¦
#
Jianguomennei Dajie
Beijingzhan Jie
C hongwenmennei Dajie
Chongwenmen
ዛ᭛䮼
See map
p292
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D
289
FORBIDDEN CITY
ú Eating
(p69)
34 Restaurant................................................. C3
35 Restaurant................................................. B3
36 Restaurant................................................. B3
û Drinking & Nightlife
(p74)
37 Cafe ............................................................C3
ý Entertainment
(p75)
38 Forbidden City Concert Hall.....................B6
Ø Sports & Activities
(p77)
39 Tennis Courts ............................................D5
ï Information
40 Dōnghuá Gate – exit only .........................D4
41 Entrance to Palace of Complete
Peace & Longevity ................................. C3
42 Exit of Complete Palace of Peace &
Longevity ................................................ C2
43 Forbidden City ticket office...................... C5
44 Forbidden City ticket office...................... B5
45 Gate of Heavenly Peace ticket office....... B6
46 Jǐngshān Park south entrance ..................B1
47 Workers Cultural Palace east
entrance..................................................D5
48 Workers Cultural Palace northwest
entrance.................................................. C5
49 Workers Cultural Palace south
entrance..................................................C6
50 Xīhuá Gate – closed .................................. A4
51 Zhōngshān Park northeast entrance ...... B5
52 Zhōngshān Park south entrance ............. B7
53 Zhōngshān Park west entrance............... A6
ï Transport
54 Bicycle Stands........................................... A7
FORBIDDEN CIT Y
æ Sights
(p52)
1 Bronze Elephants ......................................B2
2 Clock Exhibition Hall .................................C3
3 Diorama of the Forbidden City.................C3
4 Front Hall....................................................C5
5 Fúyòu Temple ............................................A2
6 Gate of Divine Prowess – exit
only .......................................................... B1
7 Gate of Heavenly Peace............................B6
8 Gate of Supreme Harmony.......................B4
9 Hall of Literary Glory .................................C4
10 Hall of Martial Valor...................................B4
11 Hall of Mental Cultivation..........................B2
12 Hall of Middle Harmony ............................B3
13 Hall of Preserving Harmony .....................B3
14 Hall of Supreme Harmony ........................B3
15 Hall of Union...............................................B2
16 Heavenly Purity Gate ................................B3
17 Imperial City Art Trading
Centre..................................................... D6
18 Imperial Garden.........................................B2
19 Jǐngshān Park ............................................ B1
20 Meridian Gate – Forbidden City
entrance ..................................................B5
21 Middle Hall .................................................C5
22 Nine Dragon Screen ..................................C3
23 Palace of Earthly Tranquillity....................B2
24 Palace of Gathered Elegance ...................B2
25 Palace of Heavenly Purity.........................B2
26 Pavilion of Cheerful Melodies –
opera house ............................................C2
27 Rear Hall.....................................................C5
28 Shùnzhēn Gate ..........................................B2
29 Square Altar...............................................B5
30 Supreme Temple.......................................C6
31 Wànshòu Xīnglóng ....................................A2
32 Workers Cultural Palace ...........................C6
33 Zhōngshān Park ........................................A5
g
h
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Gulouwai Dajie
See map
p294
#
ú
#
Qīngnián
Hú Park Southeast
Entrance
¦
#
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Hucheng River (City Moat)
Gulouwai Lu
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jie
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#
74 ã
To China Puppet
Theatre (1.5km)
C
# 72
ã
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PSB Main Office
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#
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ú
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Park
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#
ú Beixintiao
࣫ᮄḹϝᴵ㚵ৠ
See map
#
ú
7
Beixinqiao
p298
ÿ 13
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࣫ᮄḹ 80 #
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33 Ѩ䘧 㧹㚵ৠ
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North 2nd Ring Rd
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South Entrance
Zuojiazhuang Xilu
E
Lama Temple
䲡੠ᅿ
#
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#
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West Entrance
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Hepingli Beijie
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L
DŌNGCHÉNG NORTH
290
rH
'e
Ya
Beidajie
Dongzhimen
Nanxiaojie
Dongsi
Beidajie
Jiaodaokou
Nandajie
Q ian
X
hai
n
iya
23
22
21
20
19
18
17
16
F
(p99)
C Rock.............................. C4
Change ............................ D2
Esy Dragon Gift Shop ..... C4
Giant ................................ D4
Grifted.............................. C4
JH 2nd-hand Bike Shop.. D4
Plastered 8 ...................... C4
Ruìfúxiáng........................ B4
Tiān Yì Goods Market ......B5
61
62
63
64
43 Passby Bar.......................C5
44 Reef Bar ...........................C4
45 Salud ................................C4
60
42 Modernista.......................B3
41 Mao Mao Chong Bar ....... C5
40 Mài ....................................C3 þ Shopping
39 Irresistible Cafe ...............C5
38 If ........................................C3
37 Great Leap Brewing ........B4
36 El Nido ..............................D3
Tango KTV.............. (see 56)
57 Temple Bar...................... B4
58 VA Bar.............................. D2
59 Yúgōng Yíshān ................ D5
35 Drum & Bell......................B4
55 Pénghāo Theatre ............ C5
56 Star Live........................... D2
#
¦
G
Dongsi Shitiao
ϰಯकᴵ
ÿ Sleeping
(p194)
76 Běijīng Downtown
Backpackers................. C4
77 Běijīng P-Loft Youth
Hostel ............................ E3
78 Courtyard 7...................... C4
79 DùGé ................................C4
80 Lama Temple Youth
Hostel ............................ E4
81 Orchid............................... B3
82 Peking Youth Hostel........ C5
75 The Hutong ...................... E4
74 Qīngnián Hú Park .............B1
73 Natooke............................ D2
Hǎicháo Pool Hall .. (see 50)
72 Dìtán Sports Centre .........D1
71 Culture Yard .................... E4
DŌNGCHÉNG NORTH
ú Eating
(p88) 24
46 Sculpting in Time.............B4
65
6 Ān Dōng Hotel..................D2
25
47 The Other Place...............C3
66
7 Bǎihé Vegetarian
26
48 Wen Yu's Custard Shop ..C4
67
Restaurant .................... E4
27
49 Xiǎoxīn's Cafe ..................C5
68
8 Bāozi Pù ...........................C4
28
50 Zá Jiā ................................B3
9 Café De La Poste ............. E3
51 Zha Zha Cafe ...................D3 Ø Sports & Activities (p102) ï Information
10 Café Sambal.....................B3 û Drinking & Nightlife (p94)
69 Black Sesame Kitchen.... C4
83 Dōngchéng Disease
11 Chóngqìng Kǒngliàng
29 12SQM.............................. C5 ý Entertainment
(p97)
70 China Academy of
Prevention & Control
Huǒguō.......................... E4 30 46 Fangjia Hutong........... D3
52 Jiāng Hú ...........................C5
Chinese Medical
Centre ........................... C4
12 Dàlǐ Courtyard..................C4
31 Ball House........................ B4
53 Jiāng Jìn Jiǔ......................B4
Sciences ........................F4 84 Russian Embassy.............F3
æ Sights
(p86)
1 Confucius Temple &
Imperial College............D3
2 Dìtán Park ........................ D1
3 Fire God Temple ..............D3
4 Mao Dun's Former
Residence......................C4
5 Nanluogu Xiang ...............C5
15
E
54 Mao Livehouse................ C4
Dongsishitiao Lu
34 Courtyard No 28.............. E3
33 Cafe Confucius ................D3
Pancake Vendor........... D3
Jīn Dǐng Xuān .................. D2
Lǎohéjiān Donkey-Meat
Restaurant.................... C4
Little Sheep ......................E4
Noodle In .................(see 12)
Qí Shān Miàn ....................E3
Róng Tiān Sheep Spine .. B3
Source.............................. C5
Tàn Huā Lamb BBQ .........E3
Veggie Table.................... D2
Vine Leaf.......................... D3
Vineyard Café.................. D2
Xiǎo Yú Shān ....................E4
Yáng Fāng Lamb Hotpot B4
Yáojì Chǎogān ................. B4
Zhāng Māma ................... C3
14 Jiānbing Savoury
D
32 Bed Bar ............................B3
i
j
Zhangzizhonglu
ᓴ㞾ᖴ䏃
13 Ghost Street.....................E4
C
#
¦
ϰⳈ䮼࣫໻㸫
æ Top Sights
(p82)
Bell Tower ........................B4
Drum Tower .....................B4
Lama Temple ................... E3
B
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p286
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#
Běijīng
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Park
E
F
G
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Park
5
6
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æ Sights
(p109)
13 Red Stairway Bridge ...............................................C5
1 Animal Killing Pavilion............................................ C4
14 Round Altar..............................................................C5
2 Běijīng Natural History Museum............................A4
15 Southeast Corner Watchtower & Red Gate
ý Entertainment
(p112)
3 Běijīng Planning Exhibition Hall.............................. A1
Gallery ....................................................................F1
24 Red Theatre............................................................. E4
4 Běijīng Railway Museum......................................... A1
16 Zhāohēng Gate........................................................C6
5 Divine Music Administration ..................................B5
þ Shopping
(p113)
6 Echo Wall..................................................................C5 ú Eating
(p110)
25 Hóngqiáo (Pearl) Market........................................ D4
7 Fasting Palace .........................................................B5
17 Biànyífāng ................................................................D2
Toys City.........................................................(see 25)
8 Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests .......................... C4
18 Capital M.................................................................. A1
9 Imperial Vault of Heaven.........................................C5
19 Dūyīchù ....................................................................A2 Ø Sports & Activities
(p113)
10 Long Corridor ......................................................... C4
20 Lìqún Roast Duck Restaurant ................................ B1
26 NTSC Tennis Club...................................................D6
12 Qianmen Dajie ......................................................... A1
啭╁䏃
Lost Heaven ................................................... (see 21)
21 Maison Boulud .........................................................A1
22 Qiánmén Quánjùdé Roast Duck Restaurant......... A2
23 Wedomé .................................................................. D4
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11 Ming City Wall Ruins Park........................................E1
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North
Cathedral Ü
#
㸫
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Deshengmennei Da
ý Entertainment
(p123)
19 Běijīng Concert Hall.................................. D7
4
20 East Shore Jazz Café ............................... E3
Grand Opera House ..........................(see 9)
21 Mei Lanfang Grand Theatre..................... A3
Xinjiekou Nandajie
18 Yuèlù Shānwū ........................................... E3
‚
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› 38
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C
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â
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13 4Corners ................................................... E2
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3
18
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࣫⍋࣫
14 Běipíngjū ................................................... E2
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ï
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north
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17 Le Petit Saigon.......................................... E2
Běijīng Tourist
æ Top Sights
(p116)
Běihǎi Park ................................................ D4
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XĪCHÉNG NORTH
i
j
294
Jingshan Xijie
Xishiku Dajie
㽓ಯ࣫໻㸫 Xisi Beidajie
6
5
ï Transport
37 Bike Hire.....................................................D1
38 Buses to Bādálǐng Great Wall and
8
the Ming Tombs......................................C1
ÿ Sleeping
(p195)
27 Bamboo Garden Hotel .............................. E1
28 Běijīng Hòuhǎi Courtyard Guest
House ..................................................... C3
29 Běijīng Hùguósì Hotel............................... C3
30 Drum Tower Youth Hostel ........................ E1
31 Grand Mercure Běijīng Central................ C8
32 Jǐnjiāng Inn .................................................C1
7
33 Red Lantern House .................................. C2
34 Red Lantern House East Yard ................. C2
35 Red Lantern House West Yard................ B4
36 Ritz-Carlton Beijing, Financial
Street...................................................... B6
Ø Sports & Activities
Exercise Area................................... (see 37)
26 Golden Sail Water Sports Club................ C2
þ Shopping
(p126)
23 77th Street ................................................ C7
24 Běijīng Books Building ............................. C7
25 Three Stone Kite Shop............................. E3
Yuetan
Park
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p286
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Aviation Building
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#
24
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#
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To Capital
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¦
#
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ï
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#
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‚
#
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36
XĪDĀN
Taip ingqiao Dajie
Guangningbo Jie ᑓᅕԃ㸫
See map
p297
Sanfo
Camping
#
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¦
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g
h
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g
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g
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22 XP .............................................................. E3
h
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295
296
B
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¦
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â
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3
B
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(p130)
1 Dashilar ...................................................... D1
2 Fǎyuán Temple ..........................................A3
3 Xiānnóng Altar & Běijīng Ancient
Architecture Museum ........................... D4
C
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20
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e
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4
D
14 Ruìfúxiáng.................................................. D1
15 Sogo ........................................................... A2
16 Tóngréntáng.............................................. D1
17 Yuèhǎixuān Musical Instrument
Store.........................................................C1
ú Eating
(p130) ÿ Sleeping
(p196)
4 Gǒubùlǐ ....................................................... D1
18 Far East Hotel............................................ C2
5 Helen's Restaurant & Bar .........................D2
19 Far East International Youth Hostel ........ C2
20 Leo Courtyard ........................................... C2
ý Entertainment
(p132)
21 Leo Hostel..................................................D2
6 Húguǎng Guild Hall....................................C3
22 Qiánmén Hostel......................................... D1
7 Lao She Teahouse..................................... D1
Qiánmén Jiànguó Hotel .....................(see 8)
8 Líyuán Theatre...........................................C3
23 Three-Legged Frog Hostel ....................... C2
9 Tiānqiáo Acrobatics Theatre....................D3
ï Transport
þ Shopping
(p133) 24 Bicycle Rental............................................ C2
10 Cathay Bookshop ...................................... B1
25 Tiānqiáo Bus Stand...................................D4
11 Cathay Bookshop ...................................... B1
26 Tiānqiáo Long-Distance Bus Station.......D4
12 Nèiliánshēng Shoe Shop........................... D1
27 Train Ticket Office..................................... C2
13 Róngbǎozhāi .............................................. B1
297
B
i
j
See map
p303
1
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e
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䏃
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p294
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4
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Tiānyòu
# # 11
Hotel ÿ
5
D
æ Sights
(p158) ý Entertainment
(p164)
1 Běijīng World Art Museum &
7 National Library Concert Hall....................C1
China Millennium
Monument...............................................C5 ï Information
2 Dragon King Temple remains................... B1
8 Běijīng Zoo (North Entrance)................... D1
3 Military Museum........................................C5
9 Zīzhúyuán Park North Gate.......................C1
4 Wànshòu Temple....................................... B1
5 Wǔtǎ Temple.............................................. D1 ï Transport
6 Yánqìng Temple remains ......................... B1
10 Boats to the Summer Palace ....................C1
11 CRTS ..........................................................D5
# 103
›
#
104 ›
See map
p290
#
¦
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ϰⳈ䮼
#
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4
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qia
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#
¦
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e
# 00
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To French Embassy (200m);
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F
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#
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D
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‚
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‚
ϰϝ⦃࣫䏃
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SĀNLǏTÚN & CHÁOYÁNG
G
4
3
2
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298
8
7
6
Gongrentiyuchang Nanlu
ò 86
#
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û ú
#
#
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75 #
#
74 ì
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#
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# 92 í
#
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# 20
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To China Study
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∌ᅝ䞠
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ì
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See map
p286
JIÀNGUÓMÉNWÀI
27 12 EMBASSY AREA
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2 3 41
Chaoyangmen 76 # oyangm
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#
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¦ ೑䌌
#
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#
0
!
Baijiazhuang Lu
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‚
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To Bāwángfén
Long-distance
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ú
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#
SĀNLǏTÚN & CHÁOYÁNG
Chaowaishichang Jie
w
ú
#7
‚
#
ÿû
64 #
29
8
7
6
5
299
æ Sights
(p139) 24 Sān Yàng Cài............................................................B4
MegaBox......................................................... (see 51)
1 CCTV Building..........................................................D7
25 Xiǎo Wáng's Home Restaurant..............................D7
41 Melody KTV ............................................................. B5
2 Dōngyuè Temple .....................................................B5
42 Partyworld KTV....................................................... B6
3 Jiǔtiān Pǔhuā Gōng .................................................B5 û Drinking & Nightlife
(p144) 43 Poly Plaza International Theatre ........................... A4
26 Alfa ...........................................................................B4
44 Universal Theatre (Heaven & Earth
ú Eating
(p140)
Apothecary .................................................... (see 32)
Theatre)................................................................ A3
4 April Gourmet ..........................................................B3
Atmosphere....................................................(see 14)
5 Bàodǔ Huáng ...........................................................A2
Cargo.................................................................(see 7) þ Shopping
(p148)
6 Bǎoyuán Dumpling Restaurant ..............................E2
27 Chocolate.................................................................B6
45 3.3 Shopping Centre............................................... C3
Běi................................................................... (see 66)
28 d Lounge ..................................................................D4
46 Alien's Street Market.............................................. B6
7 Bellagio.....................................................................B5
29 Destination ..............................................................B5
47 Bǎinǎohuì Computer Mall ...................................... B6
Biteapitta........................................................(see 30) 30 First Floor.................................................................C3
Big Shoes........................................................(see 52)
8 Bocata ..................................................................... D3
31 Haze ......................................................................... C7
48 China World Shopping Mall.................................... D8
9 Bookworm............................................................... D4
Mesh............................................................... (see 66) 49 Place ........................................................................ C7
Carmen........................................................... (see 32)
32 Migas Bar .................................................................D3
50 Sānlǐtún Village (North).......................................... C3
10 Din Tai Fung ............................................................ G8
33 Mix ............................................................................B4
51 Sānlǐtún Village (South) ......................................... C4
11 Duck de Chine......................................................... D4
Nali Patio........................................................ (see 32)
52 Sānlǐtún Yashow Clothing Market ......................... C4
12 Elephant .................................................................. B6
34 Nearby The Tree .....................................................C3
53 Shard Box Store...................................................... C7
13 Fèitáng Yúxiāng .......................................................B3
35 Paddy O'Shea's .......................................................C2
54 Silk Market...............................................................C8
14 Grill 79 ..................................................................... D8
Q Bar .............................................................. (see 62)
15 Indian Kitchen..........................................................C2
Saddle Cantina .............................................. (see 30) Ø Sports & Activities
(p149)
16 Jīngzūn Peking Duck...............................................B3
Second Floor ................................................. (see 30)
55 Berlitz....................................................................... B8
17 Jíxiángniǎo Xiāngcài................................................B5
36 Stone Boat...............................................................B7
56 Bodhi Therapeutic Retreat..................................... B4
18 Méizhōu Dōngpō Jiǔlóu ..........................................B3
37 Tree ..........................................................................C3
57 Bridge School.......................................................... D7
19 Middle 8th ............................................................... D3
38 Vics...........................................................................B4
China World Fitness Centre ......................... (see 60)
20 Nàjiā Xiǎoguǎn........................................................ C8
Xiù................................................................... (see 67)
58 Dragonfly Therapeutic Retreat.............................. D5
21 Nánjīng Impressions .............................................. C4
59 Jīnghuá Wǔshù Association.................................... E1
Olé...................................................................(see 60) ý Entertainment
(p147)
Le Cool Ice Rink..............................................(see 48)
22 Purple Haze............................................................. C4
39 Cháoyáng Theatre ..................................................D6
Yoga Yard .......................................................(see 56)
23 Rumi ........................................................................ D4
40 East Gate Cinema ...................................................A3
SĀNLǏTÚN & CHÁOYÁNG
SĀNLǏTÚN & CHÁOYÁNG
300
ï Information
71 American Chamber of Commerce.........................C7
72 Asian Express ..........................................................F8
73 Australian Embassy ...............................................C2
74 Bank of China.......................................................... A8
75 Bayley & Jackson Medical Center..........................B7
76 British Chamber of Commerce..............................A5
91
90
89
88
87
86
85
84
83
82
81
80
79
78
92 Mongolian Embassy (Visa Section) ...................... B8
Canada-China Business Council.................. (see 80)
93 Nepalese Embassy ................................................ C2
Canadian Embassy ................................................C2 94 Netherlands Embassy ............................................D1
China Britain Business Council.................... (see 76)
95 New Zealand Embassy .......................................... C7
China-Australia Chamber of Commerce...............A6 96 Singapore Embassy............................................... B8
CITIC Bank...............................................................B8
97 South African Embassy......................................... D2
European Union Chamber of Commerce
98 Thai Embassy ......................................................... A7
in China ..................................................................E1 99 UK Embassy ........................................................... C7
French Chamber of Commerce &
100 UK Embassy (Visa & Consular Section) ............... D7
Industry........................................................(see 81)
United Parcel Service ................................... (see 60)
German Embassy...................................................C2 101 Vietnamese Embassy ............................................ B7
Hong Kong International Medical Clinic................A4
HSBC........................................................................D8 ï Transport
Indian Embassy ......................................................B7 102 Air France ................................................................ B5
International Post Office......................................... A7
Airport Express ............................................(see 103)
International SOS.................................................... C1 103 Dongzhimen Transport Hub .................................. A2
Irish Embassy .........................................................B8 104 Dongzhimen Wai Bus Stand .................................. A2
Italian Embassy ......................................................D3 105 Japan Airlines.......................................................... A8
Laotian Embassy....................................................D3
Lufthansa Airlines..........................................(see 59)
Mongolian Embassy................................................B8
77 Cambodian Embassy.............................................D2
SĀNLǏTÚN & CHÁOYÁNG
ÿ Sleeping
(p197)
60 China World Hotel .................................................. D8
61 Comfort Inn............................................................. D4
62 Eastern Inn.............................................................. D5
63 Holiday Inn Express.................................................B3
64 Hotel G......................................................................B5
65 Kerry Center Hotel ..................................................D7
66 Opposite House Hotel............................................ D3
67 Park Hyatt ............................................................... D8
68 Sānlǐtún Youth Hostel .............................................B3
69 St Regis ................................................................... A8
70 Yoyo Hotel............................................................... D3
301
302
B
A
C
Lu
ha
n
a
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ns
#
¦
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Tiàoyuǎn
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æ
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#
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# Harmonious
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6 Tenants Hallæ
Interest
æ
#
#
##
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#
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á
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ÿ
#
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12
æ
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9
#
#
11 æ
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#
â Stage æ
á
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æ
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æ
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the Zhijing
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æ
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æ
#
æ
# Mirror
South Lake
Island
Bridge
West
Lake
3
ô
#
#
á
æ
#
5 æ
# Bronze Ox
# 13
1 f
Silk Bridge
Changguan
Hall
Zaojian
Hall
æ
#
æ
#
Phoenix
Mound
æ
#
#
Willow æ
Bridge
2
Yihey
u
Kūnmíng
Lake
River
South
Lake
Lu ᯚᯢ␪䏃
2
an L
u
Ferry
Dock
3
Kunminghu
SUMMER PALACE
⥝
⊝
1
䏃
600 m
0.3 miles
D
Beigongmen
࣫ᅿ䮼
North Palace
Gate
ቅ
e
# 00
4
4
æ
# Xiuyi
Bridge
A
B
C
D
æ Sights
(p156)
10 Wénchāng Gallery..................................... C2
1 17-Arch Bridge ...........................................C3
11 West Causeway..........................................B1
2 Buddhist Fragrance Pavilion .................... C1
3 Buddhist Temple of the Sea of
ÿ Sleeping
(p198)
Wisdom ................................................... B1
12 Aman at Summer Palace...........................C1
4 Cloud Dispelling Hall .................................C2
5 Dragon King Temple .................................C3 ï Transport
6 Gate Tower of the
13 Boat Hire.................................................... C3
Cloud-Retaining Eves............................. B1
Boat Hire........................................... (see 15)
7 Jade Belt Bridge ........................................B2
14 Boathouses ................................................B1
8 Long Corridor ............................................ C1
15 Rowing Boat Dock..................................... C2
9 Marble Boat ............................................... B1
16 Rowing Boat Dock..................................... B2
303
#
¦
B
C
e
#
D
1 km
0.5 miles
# Qīnghuá
æ
University
1
#
¦
ú
#
ý
#
Chengfu Lu
#
ÿ
15
10
Peking
University
#
8û
Haidian Lu
2
Zhongguancun
Ё݇ᴥ
Zhichun Lu
ï
Běijīng Tourist #
Information Center
A
2
#
¦
Zhichunlu
ⶹ᯹䏃
Xitucheng
㽓ೳජ
Zhichun Lu
#
¦
#
¦ Weigongcun
÷3
#
3
Dazhongsi
2
໻䩳ᇎ
Ú
#
#
¦
Beisanhuan Xilu
࣫ϝ⦃㽓䏃
4
Xitucheng Lu
13
Weigongcun Lu
1
Daliushu Lu
n Nandajie
ancu
nggu
Z ho
11 ý
#
#
ã
5
#
¦
Zhichunli
ⶹ᯹䞠
᮹ᴀ᭭⧚ϔᖗ
Renmin
University
Ҏ⇥໻ᄺ #
¦
4
rth Ring Rd)
#
æ
Zhongguancun
Donglu
#
¦
Kexueyuan Nanlu
Haidian
Huangzhuang
⍋⎔咘ᑘ
Huaqing
Jiayuan
Beisihuan Xilu (North Fou
#
¦
þ 12
#
3
# Wudaokou
14 ÿ
Ѩ䘧ষ
##
6ú
¦
Chengfu Lu
ú
#
#û
7û
#
5
9
䰶फ䏃
Xueyuan Nanlu ᄺ
5
儣݀ᴥ
B
C
D
æ Sights
(p158)
9 Wǔdàokǒu Beer Garden ............................C1
1 Arthur M Sackler Museum of Art &
Archaeology............................................ A1 ý Entertainment
(p164)
2 Great Bell Temple......................................C4
10 13 Club ........................................................B1
3 Yuan-Dynasty Walls Relics Park ..............D3
11 UME International Cineplex ..................... B4
ú Eating
(p161) þ Shopping
(p165)
Bridge Café ........................................ (see 8)
12 Centergate Como...................................... A2
4 Isshin Japanese Restaurant ..................... C1
5 Lǎo Chē Jì................................................... C1 Ø Sports & Activities
(p165)
6 Salang-Bang .............................................. C1
13 Friendship Hotel........................................ B4
û Drinking & Nightlife
(p164) ÿ Sleeping
(p198)
7 Lush ............................................................ C1
14 LTH Hotel....................................................C1
8 Propaganda ...............................................C2
15 Peking Uni International Hostel ................B1
WǓDÀOKǑU
â
#
# 1
æ
Běijīng
Language &
Culture
University
4 Caijingdong Lu
Xueyuan Lu ᄺ䰶䏃
East Gate of
Peking University
࣫Ҁ໻ᄺϰ䮼
Sh
ua
n
Lu gqin
g
A
0
0
Our Story
A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of
adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed
for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to
Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but
inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling
together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap.
Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and
Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook
should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
Our Writers
Daniel McCrohan
Coordinating Author, Forbidden City & Dōngchéng Central, Drum Tower
& Dōngchéng North, Sānlǐtún & Cháoyáng, The Great Wall, Day Trips
from Běijīng Daniel moved to Běijīng in 2005 and, more significantly, moved
into the hútòng in 2007. He has made this fascinating network of ancient alleys his home ever since, and now lives with his wife and two children in a small
courtyard tucked away behind the Drum and Bell Towers. He can’t imagine ever
leaving. Daniel has written more than a dozen Lonely Planet guidebooks. He is also the creator of
the smartphone app Beijing on a Budget, and the co-host of the television series Best in China.
Find out more on his website (danielmccrohan.com) or follow him on Twitter (@danielmccrohan).
Daniel also wrote the Need to Know, Top Itineraries, With Kids, Like a Local, Běijīng Today, History, Transport and Directory A–Z chapters.
Read more about Daniel at:
lonelyplanet.com/members/danielmccrohan
David Eimer
Temple of Heaven Park & Dōngchéng South, Běihǎi Park & Xīchéng North,
Dashilar & Xīchéng South, The Summer Palace & Hǎidiàn David first came
to China in 1988, when both Westerners and cars were in short supply. After
abandoning the idea of the law as a career, he became a freelance journalist in
London and LA, before subsequent return trips to China convinced him to move
to Běijīng permanently in early 2005. Now, he contributes to a variety of newspapers and magazines in the UK. David co-wrote the previous two editions of the Běijīng guide,
and worked on the last three editions of the China guide. David also wrote the Welcome to Běijīng,
What’s New, If You Like, Month by Month, For Free, Eating, Drinking & Nightlife, Entertainment,
Shopping, Neighbourhoods at a Glance, Historic Hútòng, Arts and Architecture chapters.
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
ABN 36 005 607 983
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about
9th edition – Apr 2013
the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxiISBN 978 1 74179 846 3
mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
© Lonely Planet 2013 Photographs © as indicated 2013
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Printed in Singapore
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic,
mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the
written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent
and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such
as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
18
Top Itineraries
Day One
Day Two
Temple of Heaven Park &
Dōngchéng South (p104)
Drum Tower & Dōngchéng North
(p80)
jet-lagged anyway, so what the
yourself into Day Two with a
M You’re
M Ease
heck? Get up at the crack of dawn
calming stroll around the incenseand head straight for Temple of Heaven
Park. Běijīng is blessed with some fabulous
city parks, but this is arguably the most captivating of all, and early morning, when it’s
filled with locals rather than tourists, is the
best time to visit. Wander around its ancient
cypress trees watching Beijingers perform
taichi, fly kites or practise their favourite opera songs, then pay a visit to the magnificent
Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests – Mingdynasty architectural perfection.
Lunch Sample folk cuisine from Yúnnán province at Lost Heaven (p110).
Forbidden City & Dōngchéng
Central (p50)
Join the crowds of domestic tourists
R on their pilgrimage-like tour of Chi-
na’s most famous public space, Tiān’ānmén
Square, before spending the afternoon exploring the immense palace grounds of the
Forbidden City.
Dinner Běipíngjū (p123) offers
excellent-value Peking duck.
Drum Tower & Dōngchéng North
(p80)
Start your evening with cocktails in
Mao Mao Chong, just a few doors
down from the restaurant, before working
your way along the numerous bars of Nanluogu Xiang and finishing off with some
live music in Mao Livehouse.
N
filled courtyards of the Lama Temple before visiting the equally peaceful Confucius
Temple. Grab a coffee at nearby Confucius
Cafe before heading for lunch.
Lunch At Qì Shān Miàn (p90) try delicious Xī’ān-style noodles.
Summer Palace & Hǎidiàn (p154)
Time to escape the city centre and
R head to the western outskirts for
an afternoon trip to the Summer Palace,
where the imperial court used to decamp
to flee Běijīng’s midsummer heatwaves.
Built around the cooling waters of the huge
Kūnmíng Lake, the palace grounds and its
buildings demand at least a couple of hours
of your time. Stay too long, though, and
you’ll miss your date with the Peking opera. Head to Húguǎng Guild Hall, the most
atmospheric of Běijīng’s opera venues.
Dinner Dūyīchù (p112) is more refined
than your average dumplings joint.
Dashilar & Xīchéng South (p128)
Join the backpackers – and the
N hútòng vibe – with a drink at Helen’s
Restaurant & Bar (p132) in Dashilar.
19
Day Four
Forbidden City & Dōngchéng
Central (p50)
Sānlǐtún & Cháoyáng (p136)
your day early in another city
M Start
park. Jǐngshān Park is also one of
our favourites. It’s smaller than Temple of
Heaven, but it’s usually bursting with colour, thanks to its flower-filled gardens and
the ribbon-waving locals who come here to
dance the morning away. After joining in
with a game of jiànzi (keepie-uppies with
an oversized shuttlecock), climb Coal Hill
for splendid views of the Forbidden City. If
you have time, hop over to neighbouring
Běihǎi Park for a dash of history and a spot
of boating.
Lunch Zuǒ Lín Yòu Shè (p70) does
Běijīng grub in a no-nonsense setting.
Drum Tower & Dōngchéng North
(p80)
Catch one of the shudderingly loud
R drumming performances inside
the Drum Tower before walking across
the square to climb the equally sublime
Bell Tower. Save some time to walk over
to Pénghāo to enjoy an am-dram show in
this small hútòng venue.
Dinner Try charming Dàlǐ Courtyard
(p90) for stylish Yúnnán cuisine.
Drum Tower & Dōngchéng North
Depending on your musical tastes,
N catch some live music at Jiāng Hú,
Jiāng Jìn Jǐu or Yúgōng Yíshān.
out to 798 Art District in
M Head
the morning (not too early, though;
nothing opens before 10am) to immerse
yourself in Běijīng’s art scene. Wander the
galleries, stop for coffee and chat to young
artists whilst eyeing up your possible options for lunch.
Lunch 798’s first cafe, At Cafe (p144)
is still popular with local artists.
Sānlǐtún & Cháoyáng
You’re in the district for shopping.
R Either head to the ultra-modern,
and ultra-cool, at Sānlǐtún Village or
dive into the curio chaos at Pānjiāyuán
Market. Save time to catch an acrobatics
show before dinner. Cháoyáng Theatre is
nearest, but Tiānqiáo Acrobatics Theatre
is better.
Dinner Nàjiā Xiǎoguǎn (p140) – imperial cuisine with an old-Běijīng vibe.
Sānlǐtún & Cháoyáng
For a rough-and-ready finale, catch
N a metal band at Dos Kolegas.
For something more refined, head to the
roof terrace at Migas or sip cocktails in
Apothecary.
PL AN YOUR TRIP TO P I T I N E R A R I E S
Day Three
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