Untitled - PHILIPPE REYTER coiffure
Transcription
Untitled - PHILIPPE REYTER coiffure
a SUBLIME SPRING/SUMMER 2010 Intense flashes of light in hair, cuts that are shattered and “unstyled”— inspired by the rule-breaking of Punk, Goth & New Romantics — refined for sublime texture, volume & finish. Invoking the 80s. “A raw free spirit, but still feminine,” says Antoinette Beenders, Aveda’s global creative director. Out-of-the-box techniques & thinking, rooted in our mission to set an example in the world of beauty — in creative vision and environmental stewardship. SHATTERED EDGE T H E V I S A G E — C U T Inspired by the hair styles of the New Romantic band of the same name —“cuts with lots of movement, lots of disconnection — they were just so elegant,” says Erminio Fiocca, artistic director, Aveda Academy London. “At the same time, a sublime, raw beauty.” Erminio updates with a round graduation through longer, disconnected top panels and classic undercutting techniques. Length is “like a new hair cut that’s 3 weeks old, not freshly cut.” The idea, overall: “getting a sublime, soft, natural finish” that is more individual, that is authentic to her style. Just like Aveda, which sees beauty in harmony with life and its processes; beauty as craft, not just product result. Styling Details: Light Elements™ Shaping Wax BLONDE REMIX THE VISAGE—COLOR “Very early 90s, a ‘material girl’ bleached-out look with a softer vibe,” says Ian Michael Black, technical director, Aveda Academy London. Bleaching to lift color with a full-head lightener — what Ian calls a “refined virgin application,” toning and neutralizing, “quite extreme but beautiful — not too ash or too warm — buttery blonde.” Instead of starting with mid-lengths and ends, Ian works through isolated root foils to ensure even coverage, get extra lift and prevent the product from drying out. “What’s exciting is that we’re creating a blank canvas…the possibilities are whatever you want them to be.” Change like this happens when you take risks, which is why we, at Aveda, keep pushing boundaries to make our products more environmentally responsible — as well as customizable, for infinite artistic freedom. Styling Details: Smooth Infusion™ Glossing Straightener DECONSTRUCTED CLASSIC THE VISAGE—STYLE A matte finish that moves — subverting a classic shape by moulding hair in different directions, an editorial look that’s easy to style at home. “We really played with the long, disconnected longer lengths through the top panels,” says Antoinette Beenders. “Creating structure but with free-hand, freespirited techniques.” While the style ebbs, there’s unity to it, similar to our goal at Aveda — with one mission in mind, to make the world a better place for future generations. Styling Details: Light Elements™ Shaping Wax FLASHES OF COLOR T H E T O YA H — C O L O R “We used two intense tones that most colorists don’t put together and mixed ROs with RVs to get rich, ruby red colors,” says Ian Michael Black. Bringing hair alive by “building blocks of color through the head, lighter flashes juxtaposed with slightly more intense, stiffer tones over the top — thinking about where to accentuate the cut and create movement.” Together, the cut and color create a versatile, multi-dimensional surface, on which color “collages” in constantly shifting ways. Says Allen Ruiz, owner of Jackson Ruiz Salon in Austin, Texas, “We used a razor to cut the entire bob, creating some bulk, but still textured, leaving some fat ends. It’s really about looking at classic shapes and experimenting — whether it’s using a texturing tool or a razor.” It’s creativity like this that we encourage in Aveda artists. Moving beyond a rigid set of rules allows for inspiration and ingenuity. Styling Details: Volumizing Tonic,™ Air Control™ Hair Spray, Pure Abundance™ Hair Potion RAZORED GRACE THE RAMA—CUT “Like an early Grunge,” says Antoinette Beenders — with an influence reminiscent of an 80s girl rock band. “A bob — cut entirely with a razor, backcombing on dry hair.” Rather than diffusing or shredding the ends, Antoinette chops more at the hair, a blunter approach to using a razor — what she calls “slazoring.” Inventing and reinventing — combining the unexpected, “a cut that’s somehow industrial and elegant at the same time.” Blending opposites to create something entirely new — like we do at Aveda, discovering new raw materials and ways of bringing together beauty with science, nature with technology. Styling Details: Phomollient™ Styling Foam, Be Curly™ Curl Enhancer, Air Control™ Hair Spray DISTRESSED TEXTURE THE RAMA—COLOR “We wanted it to be quite choppy, broken up with color, almost grown-out looking with roots showing,” says Ian Michael Black, “building texture through juxtapositions of fine and chunky bits with light and dark shades — working fine weaves next to really thick weaves, leaving out little sections here and there, brown tones peeking through the hair.” At Aveda, we believe in doing more than is expected — whether it’s advancing hair color techniques, like this, or treating guests to complimentary Sensory Rituals when they come for a cut or color — it all comes full circle. Styling Details: Phomollient™ Styling Foam, Be Curly™ Curl Enhancer, Air Control™ Hair Spray ROUGH PLAY THE RAMA—STYLE “We roughed it up to maximize her texture,” says Allen Ruiz — hair that’s unstyled and still sophisticated, playing up blunt layers. “It reminds me of the frayed edges of spring/summer collections — slightly unfinished but quite elegant.” Keeping with the concept of the dry razored cut — Allen goes with a matte finish, leaving the contrasting colors and chunky layers to create dimension. As artists, we’re trained to see the potential in everyone and everything — whether it’s a Brazilian urukum seed or hair that’s never seen a stylist’s chair. It’s this level of experimentation and creativity that defines us. Styling Details: Pure Abundance™ Hair Potion, Air Control™ Hair Spray BLUE ELECTRIC THE UMA—BLUE Reinventing the smoky eye, deconstructed in bold blue. Creating an unexpected horizontal shape, drawing attention to the eyes. “Cheeks reflect a strong contour popular in the 80s, elevated to a monochromatic and warm bronze with a peachy lip,” says Janell Geason, Aveda makeup artist. No trend is set in stone — rules broken, new aesthetics realized. We believe that beauty is defined by inner and outer wellness — a balance between how we look, how we feel and how we live, which is why even our makeup and skin care products reflect consideration of not only the environment, but our physical response to aroma — elevating the senses, and sense of well-being. Makeup Details: Color Options™ Eye Shadow Transformer, Petal Essence™ Eye Definer in Black Orchid, Petal Essence™ Eye Color Trio in Blue Dawn, Eye Color Trio in Gobi Sands, Lip Glaze in Mango Juice POWERFUL FORCE THE UMA—SMOKEY Elevating Goth with a strong eye and intense lip…executed in an elegant way. “Rich, saturated colors invoke a fierce spirit,” Janell Geason says. “Paying attention to how culture influences style, taking risks with different shapes.” Makeup, like fashion, is an expression of the self — like here, a force to be reckoned with. At Aveda, we encourage everyone to give back to themselves and others, even in small ways — walking for water, recycling or using products that care for the Earth and benefit underserved communities around the world. Makeup Details: Color Options™ Eye Shadow Transformer, Petal Essence™ Eye Color Trio in Plum Mist, Eye Color Trio in Gobi Sands, Mosscara™ in Black Forest, Nourish-Mint™ Lip Liner in Hawthorn Berry, Nourish-Mint™ Smoothing Lip Color in Passion Flower CREDITS Global creative director: Antoinette Beenders Technical director: Ian Michael Black Artistic directors: Erminio Fiocca, Allen Ruiz Global director, makeup: Rudy Miles Makeup artist: Janell Geason Photographer: Miguel Reveriego Designer: Anna Kulzick Copywriter: Amy Covington