Goldwell tiGi - Behind The Chair
Transcription
Goldwell tiGi - Behind The Chair
feature | btc color show recap Goldwell show stopping color doesn’t come out of a box 1500 Colorists from 4 Continents, 8 Countries and 43 States Gather Together in Miami for the Color Event of a Lifetime. That was the message from Goldwell artists John Simpson, Dimitrios Tsioumas, Rebecca Hiele and Daniel Rubin, and they walked the talk! Their brunettes, blondes and reds opened COLOR Show with a bang and Simpson’s wit started the morning with laughter. The team covered great formulas for all of the color families, including how-tos from “Go Color,” Goldwell’s quick, easy and functional quarterly collection. Hot tip from John Simpson: “When a red client wants something brighter, your typical solution might be to add a gold shade, but then you get a ketchup-and-mustard effect. Instead, weave in some soft, cool red shades. These tones will push forward the warm red and the color will appear lighter and brighter.” John Simpson Daniel Rubin TIGI what’s your fashion tribe? TIGI’s Christel Lundqvist and Richy Kandasamy presented three color collections—Street, Couture and Editorial—based on TIGI’s new Fashion Tribes approach to consultation. Launching in early 2013, this tool helps stylists and their clients identify each person’s image and create a bespoke color design based on style, face shape, complexion, etc. Fashion influences TIGI’s haircolor trends significantly, Christel revealed. “We look at fashion designers one to two seasons ahead,” she noted, “then classify them into color shade families and create catwalkinspired palettes for each season. COLOR Show also marked the first American appearance by Christel—the renowned colorist and three-time British Haircolorist of the Year recently joined the TIGI team. By Jackie Summers Photos by Ben Jenkins, Jake Thompson and Ashley Drehobl It was a dream come true…and it surpassed our wildest dreams. More than 1,500 of the world’s most colorintent stylists came together in Miami to learn and grow—led by a team of the world’s best color educators. For two memorable days, these artists shared knowledge and insights and presented one awe-inspiring color design after another in a program that celebrated the art, science and passion of professional haircolor. “At the closing of the show I cried,” said Julie Nesseralla of InStyle Salon and Spa in Orlando. “I didn’t want it to end. I was amazed at the talent, creativity and imagination I witnessed. COLOR will be the event we will look forward to and save for,” she adds, “above any other event.” Join us as we relive some of our favorite show highlights! Christel Lundqvist Richy Kandasamy Hot tip from Richy Kandasamy: “To evolve your ombré looks, move the lighter color up from the ends and use it to frame the face, leaving the back section darker. Just be sure to assess the skin tone carefully and choose a lighter color that complements the complexion.” BTC’s Founder and Creative Director Mary Rector Gable opened the show, introducing the line-up of world renowned haircolor educators. She added some inspirational comments, telling the packed house at The Doral Resort in Miami, “I want to give you a weekend that’s so special because you’ve all given me so much. I love to come to work every day. We’ve hand-picked these color artists for you and we hope they inspire you to find your passion, so when you go back to your salon you’ll be confident and courageous!.” 108 behindthechair.com behindthechair.com 109 feature | btc color show recap Aveda the art, science and business of haircolor Attendees got two for the price of one during the Aveda segment. Ian Michael Black provided insights and formulas for the new Neo Goth collection—with a strong focus on the red spectrum— along with tips and techniques delivered in his witty style. Then David Adams took the stage to share his ideas on how to boost the business of color in the salon. “There are three parts to a successful color service,” Adams said, “The technical quality, staff coaching and customer service.” He challenged the audience: “Are you happy with every color that walks out of your salon? If not, slow down and spend more time with each guest, because your name is on every single head.” Beth Minardi Hot tip from Ian Michael Black: Joico & Minardi Luxury Color Care When applying bright color within a dark base, this technique will produce a soft, pixillated effect, which will appear shiny and vibrant. When prelightening the hair, create a thick weave and begin with a solid application of the lightening formula on the midshafts and ends of the section. Then gently stroke the lightener upward toward the root, allowing it to diffuse. Fold the foil gently without pressing. Process, remove and apply the bright color to the pre-lightened sections. the incomparable Beth Minardi Beth brought the house to its feet with her signature techniques and signature straight talk. She was joined by team members Mark Garrison, Mark Milleti and Stephen Wang. She also took questions from the audience, including one about using colored scarves to assess skin tone. “Get a vivid orange scarf and a vivid, Pepto-Bismol pink one,” she advised the questioner. “Take off her make-up, stick her hair behind her ears and wrap each scarf around her head. You’ll see immediately which color brings her face to life and which makes her look like death and you’ll know if she is cool or warm.” hot tip from beth minardi: David Adams Ian Michael Black “Don’t create a color that you can’t maintain,” she warned the audience. “If you want to lift a Level 0 to blonde, you have to be meticulous and the client must understand that it will have to be retouched every three weeks or she’ll get banding. The shorter the root, the better the blonde retouch. If she sees an orange band, she’ll think that you’re a bad colorist. If you or your client cannot maintain this shade properly, turn her into a highlight client and retouch her every six-to-seven weeks.” Kenra Professional five steps or less Kenra color is all about ease and simplicity, according to Robb Dubré, Davin Testerman and Timothy Durant. The trio demonstrated quick techniques and shared the Kenra formulas to achieve each look. Hot how-to from Robb Dubré: Robb’s Dowling Technique is the perfect way to create accents and movement on naturally curly hair. Wrap foil around a wooden dowel rod, then spiral a curly section of hair around the dowel. Paint Kenra Permanent Lightener + 20-volume developer onto the crest of the curl. Slip the dowel out, leaving the hair and foil intact. Continue working in this manner on random curls—avoid a structured color pattern. Process and remove. A special color “moment:” “Haircolor can have such a deep effect on people,” Robb observed. “I recently had a client who was ‘celebrating’ her divorce. She wanted to start her life over. She was an overprocessed, Level 10 blonde. Over the course of two days, we deepened her color to her natural, chocolate brown. We carefully took her to Level 6 the first day and then to Level 4 the second day. We spent three to four hours each day. When we were finished, she was so happy. She felt like she had left her old life behind her!” Davin Testerman Robb Dubré Teri Dougherty, Robert Siebert and Candace Bossendorfer Aloxxi flights of fashion Aloxxi is adding the human element to haircolor, Teri Dougherty and Candace Bossendorfer told the audience, by personalizing the color experience for clients. Aloxxi color designs sport tantalizing names like “Sparkling Prosecco” and “Espresso Yourself,” Teri and Candace explained, which helps colorists make a psychological and emotional connection with clients. For stylists, the team has created a portfolio of quick techniques which they equate to flights of wine and that can be customized for each customer. Teri demonstrated Bella Diamond, a technique based on diamond-shaped panels. The diamonds can be sub-sectioned, outlined or colored as solid panels, depending on the desired result. Hot tip from Teri Dougherty: Timothy Durant 110 behindthechair.com When doing a corrective color, work slowly and methodically. Take small sections, complete one quadrant at a time, rinse and then proceed to the next quadrant. This ensures even, consistent results. “Patience is the most important thing when tackling a tough head of hair,” Teri said. “Always underpromise during the consultation and let the client know she will probably need a few services to attain the color that she wants. And always, always strand test!” behindthechair.com 111 Schwarzkopf proper to pin-up Kim Vo Blonde-meister and renowned celebrity stylist (Katherine Heigl, Britney Spears and Barbie) Kim Vo raised the roof with his unique combination of sass, smart techniques and straight talk about color. “I do 20 to 30 people a day in the salon and I’m not on crack,” he declared. “It’s all about quick techniques that help you make money!” Kim demonstrated three of those techniques on three lucky audience members, whose names were drawn onstage. He demonstrated Sparkle, which eliminates all traces of warmth for the “blonde-orexic” client; Smudge Light, a “bump” and caramelizing for levels 6 and above, and Smudge, a modern ombré (or sombré) for levels 2 and above. Then, the burlesque-inspired beauties in his “proper to pin-up” finale, showcased six stunning shades created with the new Schwarzkopf BlondeMe Toners—from Vanilla Vamp and Sand to Strawberry, Lilac and beyond. Wella Professionals illumina-ting! First up, Wella Professionals Creative Director Fabio Sementilli unveiled the “biggest Wella color innovation for the last 20 years.” The new Illumina Color, launching in January 2013, features advanced MicroLight technology that produces outstanding light reflection and hair protection. “The hair looks like it was lit at 9 a.m. on a Southern California beach!” Fabio exclaimed. Then it was magical and emotional when Christopher and Sonya Dove took the stage for Wella Professionals. The crowd leapt to its feet—showing appreciation for the team’s dazzling color artistry, as well as in unspoken tribute to the pair’s longstanding commitment to professional beauty education. Chris was visibly moved as he spoke of his mother, who passed away recently, and “who believed in us when we didn’t believe in ourselves.” Hot tip from Christopher Dove: “Give yourself the gift of one client you can really rock with your color. This is the client who will be your walking art piece. It’s good for your business and good for your creativity as an artist!” Farouk L’Oreal Professionnel real hair for real people Team Farouk—Lisa Marie, Lorena Garcia and Maggie Karcher, with support from Effram Leiva—kept it real for the audience. They declared that it’s all about healthy hair and healthy products because, said Lisa Marie, “We want to be working in the salon for a long time!” As the official stylists to the Miss USA and Miss Universe pageants, the Farouk team also has to be proficient at getting the job done quickly and effectively, and they shared some of their favorite techniques, like block coloring and glazing hair with CHI Chromashine Conditioning DemiPermanent Bold Color, an ammonia- and PPD-free formula that adds mega shine and intensity, and lasts 30 to 40 shampoos. celebrity to reality Celebrity color serves as the main source of inspiration for clients these days, which is just fine with celebrity colorists Jason Backe and Jennifer MacDougall. After all, they’re responsible for creating many of those actual celebrity shades, so they’re wellequipped to recreate the hues on clients. In their presentation, they demonstrated consultation and design techniques for adapting celebrity hues to any client in your chair. “After all,” said Jennifer, “everyone can have a red carpet moment!” Lisa Marie Effram Leiva Hot tip from Jason and Jennifer: Hot tip from Maggie Karcher: “To really zero in on what a client wants, here is a great question to ask during the consultation: ‘When you walk out of a room, do you want the people who saw you to describe you as a blonde, a brunette or a redhead?’” To ensure that color on a block section or panel lifts evenly, apply the color in back-to-back slices and apply the formula to both the front and back of the section. Work with the lowest possible developer, which will allow you to take your time and work carefully. Lorena Garcia 112 behindthechair.com Christopher and Sonya Dove Jason Backe Jennifer MacDougall behindthechair.com 113 feature | btc color show recap Logics Chrystofer Benson Matrix “Haircolor is My Passion” “It has been for 25 years,” added Gina Khan. In her popular segment, she pledged to inspire the audience to think differently—to think about unique, results-driven techniques that will keep their clients’ color great…and keep their clients out of the drugstore! One of Gina’s favorite results-driven technique is her base adjust—a quick, on-and-off application that lifts the hair one-half to one level. “I ran into a stylist who trained two of her assistants to do base adjusts,” Gina said, “and she told me that in one year, she added $89,000 to her income from the service!” The R3D Collection As a North American Haircolorist of the Year winner and finalist, Chrystofer Benson knows a thing or two about how to create a strong, comprehensive collection of color looks. He proved it with his presentation of the new Matrix R3D Collection—a powerful statement of red and black hues and block color application techniques. “Color blocking is about taking colors that contrast with and complement each other to produce a variety of end results,” he explained. “You can keep the levels and tones close together for what I call the ‘commercial’ interpretation, or you can separate them further apart for a ‘progressive’ feeling.” For the process that led to R3D, Chrystofer revealed that his initial inspiration came from color blocking in fashion—clothing, shoes, bags, etc.—along with an homage to the late Vidal Sassoon whose style heyday was in the 1960s. From there Benson created storyboards, created his techniques and soon…a collection was born! Hot tip from Gina Khan: Gina Khan “It’s important to not only think about how a client looks when she leaves the salon,” Gina told the crowd, “but also how she will look in the second, third, fifth weeks. If she sees a nasty root, orange tones, damaged hair, she’ll wonder, ‘Why did I spend $200 in the salon when I could do this at home?’ You must create color that fades on tone, with roots that are soft and diffused and it’s feasible to go six-to-eight weeks between touch-ups. Then she’ll feel she’s getting her money’s worth…and she’ll send her friends!” The Finale The End of the Rainbow How else would you wrap up a COLOR Show but by displaying all the colors of the rainbow? In the dazzling finale, each company interpreted their assigned hue in the color spectrum, and the result was a rainbow of artistry and expression! The BTC team on stage at the finale enjoying a standing ovation for making it all happen. 114 behindthechair.com ADD MORE COLOR TO YOUR LIFE! Get color formulas for every model, watch the finale video and see more pictures from the event! Go to: /color behindthechair.com 115 feature | btc color show recap THE COLOR CONNECTION CENTER This is where the color got up-close and serious! Artists, models and attendees mingled in special color “studios,” for demos and discussions. They also picked up color formula cards from every manufacturer! At the Alfaparf studio, COLOR attendees learned ombra, the Italian version of ombré. READY, SET, GLO! After a long day of color immersion, it was time to let loose. So we threw a Glo Party and everybody came! We danced, we sipped, we celebrated—and we basked in the glow of COLOR! Keratin Complex’s Martino Cartier and Deb Gavin demonstrate the unique benefits of their new Color Therapy line. The TIGI team gets their GLO on. The pros at Davines showcase Flamboyage, their exclusive balayage technique. Models added some ‘tude to the party. CRAZY FOR COLOR With a packed house all weekend, the 1,500 attendees couldn’t get enough of COLOR! Kim Vo dances the night away. 116 behindthechair.com behindthechair.com The BTC girls gone wild with Jake Thompson. 117 11 hours of education The BTC COLOR Show—featuring the most renowned color educators in the world at the biggest color event of the decade—is now available on DVD. order now for only $295 attn: haircolor fanatics! The BTC COLOR Show—featuring the most renowned color educators in the world at the biggest color event of the decade—is now available on DVD. Whether you missed the show, or you were there and want to relive your experience, it’s all here. Eleven hours of color education from the best of the best, including Beth Minardi, Kim Vo, Gina Khan, The Doves, John Simpson, Ian Michael Black, Christel Lundqvist and more. plus receive these 2 books free! a $435 value! 11 hours of education including: Beth Minardi The Beth Minardi Signature Haircolor Method Christel Lundqvist & Richy Kandasamy The Art of Creative Color Consultation Kim Vo The Signature Blonde Smudge Technique Chrystofer Benson The CRAFT of Haircolor Ian Michael Black & David Adams The Reds of Autumn Teri Dougherty Flights of Color Fashion John Simpson & Dimitrios Tsioumas Beautiful Haircolor for Every Woman Robb Dubré, Davin Testerman & Timothy Durant Artistic Approaches to Practical Color The Doves Trend Vision Forecasting Farouk Shami & Lisa Marie The Art and Science of Haircolor Gina Khan Gorgeous Color…On the Go elevate your craft. expand your skills. reignite your passion for color. (reg $69.95 individually) or call 1-800-760-3010 x10