The Perfect Score

The Perfect Score
Custom-fit wedges and putters have a positive
impact on a golfer’s game.
By Jeff Sheets
Drive for show and putt for dough. Most everyone who has heard this mantra
recognizes its merits, yet few golfers take the time to get their most important
scoring club custom-fit to him- or herself. The performance of one’s scoring clubs,
or putters and wedges, can make all the difference between a spectacular round of
golf and one that is mediocre. As with a set of irons, there is a process for fitting
scoring clubs. In fact, if you know how to fit a set of irons, you’ll find that fitting
scoring clubs is no more difficult.
The greatest difference between swinging a wood and iron versus a shortgame club is the length of the swing. With a wood or iron, the golfer takes the
club to a parallel position at the top of the swing. This is not the case with a
wedge or a putter. Partial swings dictate the use of the scoring clubs and this
is where the differences influence the fit. This month, we take a look at the
primary focal points on custom-fitting wedges and putters to a golfer.
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Wedges
T
ypically, a wedge fitting occurs in conjunction with
an iron or full-set fitting, but this is not always the
case. Many of the same protocols you would take in an iron
or wood fitting also apply to the wedges. Determine the
golfer’s clubhead speed using a driver or 5-iron to arrive at
the correct shaft recommended swing speed range (RSSR).
Measuring for club length and grip size is no different
with the wedges, either. And of course there is the lie angle
measurement. This is extremely important because there
is so much loft on the wedges. These are intended to be
the scoring clubs, so a precision lie specification must be
perfectly set!
Conducting a dynamic lie angle fitting is necessary
with wedges, even if it has already been done with irons.
With a more abbreviated swing and narrower — and often
open — stance with the wedges, a lie angle that is unique
from the irons is possible. Using impact tape on the sole
of the club and having the golfer hit balls from an impact
board will indicate the need to adjust the wedge’s lie angle.
Determining the set configuration of the wedges is in
order. With 14 clubs as the limit, does the golfer have room
in the set to accommodate four wedges? Perhaps only
three? I am a big advocate of replacing bad utensils with
good ones. If the golfer has a long iron that fails to perform
consistently, replacing it with another wedge loft could pay
a higher dividend: Better scores.
The important approach in selecting wedge lofts is to
maintain consistent loft intervals between clubs, for tight,
predictable distances in yardage. Most mid- and short-irons
Keeping this consistency between wedges is preferable. As
the set flows from the pitching wedge to approach (or gap)
wedge, sand wedge and onto the lob wedge, a consistent
loft interval provides the golfer the means to control
scoring club distances.
In some cases, a golfer may only be able to accommodate
three wedges in the set. In this situation, the wedge types
must be carefully considered based on the golfer’s short
game. For example, a set configuration of a pitching wedge,
sand wedge and lob wedge would dictate five to six degrees
of loft between each club based on the weakest loft (lob
wedge) of the set. But a golfer selecting a pitching wedge,
approach wedge and sand wedge as the three-club set can
usually keep an increment of four degrees of loft between
each club since a lob wedge is forfeited.
Many golfers who want a lob wedge choose a 60-degree
model by default, simply because it has been the standard
loft for lob wedges since they were first introduced in the
late 1980s. Unfortunately, many recreational golfers display
an inconsistency in distance control with 60-degree lob
wedges. While one shot may travel 45 yards, the following
can unexpectedly fly 60 due to the great amount of loft on
the lob wedge and results from variable impact locations
vertically along its face.
Snake Eyes 655TM Wedge Head (No. SE2666)
In fitting recreational golfers to lob wedges, the best
remedy for this inconsistency is to bump the loft stronger,
to 58 degrees. This helps tighten the gap between each club
in a three-wedge set but more importantly provides greater
distance control, especially to those who do not routinely
practice with their lob wedges.
Another popular trend in wedge fitting is to use the lob
wedge as the greenside bunker club. Historically the sand
wedge, typically with 54 to 56 degrees of loft, has played
this role, but most tour players now use their lob wedges
for this function. The higher loft helps get the ball up over a
bunker’s lip easier and allows for it to land softer than with
a stronger loft.
The bounce angle of the sole also plays a vital part in the
fitting process. The soles of wedges incorporate a trailing
edge that is angled lower than the leading edge. In the sand
or deep rough, the sole acts like a water ski does on the
surface of a lake. It keeps the clubhead from burying itself,
as long as the golfer follows through with the swing.
Selecting the correct bounce angle for the wedges
becomes part of the custom fit. In regard to bounce, there
are two areas to focus on; the sand is the first. A golfer who
needs help keeping the clubhead from digging in the sand
requires a wedge with a greater degree of bounce on its
sole. Minimally, 12 degrees should be considered, but 14
to 16 degrees could prove to be more helpful, because the
greater the amount of bounce, the better the clubhead will
slide through the sand without digging deeper. A highly
skilled bunker player can get by with as little as eight to
10 degrees of bounce. The skilled ball striker can equally
benefit from greater bounce in the bunker, but will find
that a high-bounce sole can be restrictive off the fairway, on
hardpan or for hitting finesse shots around the green. There
is give and take with regard to selecting optimal bounce.
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Wedges
Light, powdery sand is a condition where even a good
bunker player may require a higher bounce angle on the
sand wedge. The opposite is true for a very hard-packed
bunker. Approach this shot as if it were a hardpan situation,
where little bounce is necessary. If the golfer often plays at a
course with either of these conditions, having wedges with
the appropriate amount of bounce can be a big asset.
The condition outside the bunker becomes another
consideration in choosing a wedge’s bounce. A high-bounce
wedge that works well in soft sand may be a detriment
outside of the bunker. For many golfers, a sand wedge with
10 to 12 degrees of bounce appears to be the most versatile
in and out of sand.
When fitting the golfer for wedges, take note of the
player’s angle of attack. A steeper angle of attack will require
more bounce on all of the wedge’s soles. The higher bounce
angle helps restrict the depth of a divot, which may become
too deep and long without enough bounce in the sole.
For a golfer with a shallow angle of attack, very little to
no bounce is necessary. These golfers are easy to spot: After
hitting a full bucket of balls, there are no divots and no turf
is missing from the practice spot. Sweepers, or pickers, of
the ball would actually find that too much bounce impedes
their swings, so selecting wedges with less bounce throughout the set would be preferred.
Further attention should be paid to the wedge soles.
Sole design is very important. For example, the width of
the sole plays an important role in conjunction with the
bounce angle: The wider the sole, the more dynamic the
reaction of the bounce angle, whether in the bunker or
off the grass. Many soles have design features, such as relief
in the heel area, that enable the wedge to lay open for
execution of flop shots. A pre-worn sole has material relief
running from heel-to-toe to shift the bounce angle to the
trailing edge, making shots off tight lies easier to execute.
Basically, the design of the sole dictates the versatility of
the wedge. Whether targeted for the bunker, rough or
fairways, a variety of sole angles are conducive to many
different conditions and shots. In fact, this is one area where
custom grinding can prove to be a valuable skill set for the
Snake Eyes GBU Forged Wedge Head (No. SE2680)
fitter. Creating a sole shape that meets the specific needs of
the golfer, while hitting the bounce angle and width, can
sometimes only be done through custom grinding — just
ask the touring pros.
The focus has been on the head so far, but we must also
fit the proper wedge shafts into the golfer’s set. A full shot
made with a sand or lob wedge equates to no more than a
three-quarter swing with an iron or wood, and much less
amplitude is placed into the shaft. (It does not flex as much
at the start of the down-swing.) This leads to less feedback
from the shaft, so there are considerations that should be
made in regard to promoting feel. This is even more important when it comes to chips and pitch shots. I recommend
a shaft that is at least equivalent in weight to, if not heavier
than, the set’s iron shafts. Heavier weight promotes greater
feel throughout the swing, and this is most important on
partial swings.
A softer shaft flex also promotes greater feel on a partial
swing. Softening the wedge shafts can be achieved by
soft-stepping the same shafts used in the irons. For example,
if the trimming instructions call for a four-inch tip cut,
tipping the wedge shaft two to three inches instead will
lead to a softer feel. Using a softer flex shaft (i.e., the golfer
plays a stiff in the irons, so a regular flex is used in the
wedges) is yet another way to promote more club feel.
Finally, ensuring that the swingweight of the wedges
is heavier than the irons will also promote more feel on
partial swings. It is not uncommon to find pitching and
approach wedges one or two swingweights heavier than the
irons, and sand wedges at least three swingweights heavier
than the rest of the set. In combination, a heavier shaft,
softer flex and higher swingweight in each wedge provide
greater feedback to the golfer’s hands around the green.
The last remaining spec to complete the wedge fitting is
the club length. Many original equipment manufacturers
(OEMs) lop off all of their wedges at the same length. This
makes mass production easier but does nothing to promote
lower scores. Too many golfers focus on how far they are
capable of hitting their wedges, but scoring has nothing to
do with distance and everything to do with control. As the
loft weakens in the woods and irons, so do the shaft lengths.
There should be no deviation from this system when it
comes to the wedges. Shorter clubs are easier to control,
and scoring is all about control.
The most common approach to addressing wedge
lengths is to reduce club length increments to one quarter
inch, beginning with the pitching wedge. Whereas halfinch length increments are common with irons, most
wedge head weights are manufactured to be assembled at
quarter-inch increments. Fitting the wedges with half-inch
increments between each loft could be considered as long
as the heavier swingweights can be maintained through
hosel weight ports, lead tape or custom grinding. With a
properly fit set of wedges, the golfer has the right tools for
the job.
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Putters
N
ow that the golfer has been fit to the wedges, we
need to ensure the flatstick has been optimized to
the putting stroke. The putter is a completely different
implement from the rest of the clubs in the set: It is
(typically) the shortest club with the least amount of loft,
requiring a stroke that is not at all similar to the golf swing.
There’s one other thing about the putter: Many putter
owners have a love/hate relationship with it. While a golfer
can get into a good putting groove and intuitively make
everything in sight, a cold spell never seems to be too far
down the road. Having a putter that has been dynamically
fit is a good way to minimize those dreaded cool-down
periods. As with fitting any other club, there are a handful
of specifications to address to guarantee a good marriage
between golfer and putter.
When starting a putter fitting session, be sure that you
have access to a putting green, whether it is natural grass or
inside. Otherwise, the fitting should occur on a carpet that
is smooth enough to roll putts at least 20 feet.
The length of the putter is one of the most important
variables in which to fit the golfer. For decades, the standard
putter length sold by OEMs was 35 inches. The industry is
beginning to see a decrease in the lengths offered, and with
good reason. At Golfsmith, we have been fitting golfers to
their putters for years, and few end up with a club that is
35 inches in length – in fact, most of the golfers we have fit
end up with lengths in the 32.5- to 34-inch range.
My preferred way to determine the proper putter
length is to begin with a fitting putter that has an uncut
shaft and no grip. The putter itself will be approximately
37 to 40 inches long, depending on the head style and
Snake Eyes Z-9 Model 2 Putter Head (No. SE4791)
the shaft used. I recommend making two fitting putters
– one with a conventional style head (i.e., a heel-toe model
similar to the ever-popular PING Anser), and the other
with an alignment (mallet) design. Most golfers will usually
be fit to one of these two categories, depending on the
latest design trends.
Have the golfer set up to the fitting putter using their
normal setup. For most golfers, this is a shoulder-width
stance, eyes over the ball and arms hanging freely from the
shoulders. Because there is no putter grip, the golfer can
set up to the putter without any influence on their hand
placement. (Golfers typically place their hands lower on the
shaft when there is no grip on the putter.) Now have the
golfer roll a series of practice putts, adjusting the hands for
comfort and control. These two factors are very important:
If the golfer is not comfortable with the location of his or
her hands, there is less ability to gain control of the stroke.
Once you have identified the preferred hand position, mark
the shaft one inch above the crook of the golfer’s upper
wrist. This will be where the shaft is cut.
Golfsmith also markets a Putter Fitting System (No.
240789) that has a telescoping shaft. This accomplishes the
same objective by placing the hands in a comfortable and
controlled position.
Once the golfer’s putter length is determined, the lie
angle is ready to be set. As opposed to using impact tape
on the sole like an iron, observe the sole orientation to the
ground as the golfer strokes at the ball. Lie angles can be
easily adjusted using a bench vise to secure the head as the
hosel or shaft is bent to the correct spec.
A precise lie angle fit for a putter is less critical than the
wedge lie due to the lack of loft. In fact, many golfers fit
into an upright lie purely as a setup visual. I suggest setting
the lie angle so the sole is flush to the putting surface, but
definitely give in to the preferences of the golfer in this
situation. Once again, the Putter Fitting System is available
to set the appropriate lie angle as well as club length.
Golfsmith Adjustable Putter Fitting Tool (No. 240789)
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Putters
Setting the putter to the most efficient loft is an enigma
to most fitters. The objective with the putt is to get the ball
rolling with over-spin as quickly as possible, but loft on the
putter face imparts backspin as the ball comes off of the
face. As the backspin transitions to over-spin, the ball ends
up skidding. When setting the putter to the best loft for the
golfer, the goal is to minimize skidding.
Instead of using a 50,000 frames-per-second camera to
observe the ball skid, a much simpler tool can monitor the
skid — your ears. Listening to the skid provides insight to
the efficiency of the roll. For starters, the golfer should be
rolling putts 20 or more feet in length. This will ensure
enough audible feedback in listening to the ball skid.
A putter with an adjustable loft feature such as the Putter
Fitting System can alter the loft as putts are rolled.
What I have used in the past are three identically built
putters with lofts of one, four and seven degrees. As the
golfer is rolling putts, listen to the putter that provides
the shortest sounding skid. In a scenario where a golfer
forward-presses, the putter is de-lofted and you will hear
excessive skid with the one- and four-degree lofted putters.
However, with the seven-degree loft, there will be less
skidding. This feedback directs the fitter into setting a
higher loft spec for the golfer.
In a test where the one- and four-degree putters sound
similar, but the seven-degree model provides a longer skid,
the golfer’s most efficient loft may be two or three degrees.
Using the assortment of lofted putters to audibly identify
the least amount of skid helps identify the most efficient
loft, without the need for high-speed cameras or software.
The next fitting specification to focus on is weight – but
not swingweight. Swingweight plays a more pertinent role
in woods and irons, where the club is being swung around
the golfer’s body. With a putting stroke, the shaft remains
primarily in a vertical orientation to the ground; it is not
swung around the golfer’s spine. A need for static weight
is important in a putter. Do not be distracted with swingweight specs.
True Temper T2C
Putter Shaft (No. T2C)
Python Pure Balance 5 Putter Head (No. SE4850)
During the putting stroke, it is important to use the large
muscle groups of the arms and shoulders to control the
club. A heavier putter will promote the use of the larger
muscles, whereas if the putter is too light, the wrists and
elbows have the ability to take control of the club. This is
not desired. Promoting the larger muscle groups keeps the
wrists and elbows quiet while maintaining better control
of speed and accuracy.
Ways to increase the static weight of a putter include
using heavier heads, heavier shafts and heavier grips. Heads
can be made heavier if adjustable weights are available for
their design, and heavier heads can also be selected for the
putter’s assembly. For example, heads intended for mid- and
over-length putters are typically much heavier than those
targeted for standard-length models.
Using a newer putter model is another way to increase
head weight. The standard putter head weight has increased
over the past decade. Ten years ago, putter heads commonly
weighed 325 grams, but today, many weigh in excess of
355 grams. Older head models may have deficiencies in
both forgiveness and weight.
Golfsmith codeveloped a 200-gram putter shaft, the
TC2, with True Temper. It doubles the weight of the typical
putter shaft, so it can quickly add weight into a completed
putter without altering its balance point. Butt weights can
be incorporated into the shaft to bring its static weight,
up or lead tape can be wrapped under the grip prior to its
installation.
Putter grips themselves can range from as little as
55 grams to more than 150 grams. Do not be afraid of
swapping out a light putter grip for a heavier one. While
the swingweight may drop, the static weight of the club
rises. The reduction in swingweight should not prevent you
from using the heavier grip.
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72˚
Lie
Face Balancing:
The face axis protrudes to the center of the face.
Adjustable weight putter grips such as the Tour Lock
system (No. 57417) are a great way to fine-tune the static
weight of a putter. With the grip installed, the interchangeable weights can be inserted and removed from the butt
of the club until the golfer experiences the desired feel.
Whether using a weight-adjustable grip like the Tour
Lock system or a traditionally styled grip, a wide variety of
putter grips is available to suit the preferences of the golfer.
Whatever shape the golfer prefers — whether it is pistol,
paddle, wrapped, split, etc. — recommend the largestdiameter grip the golfer will accept. The larger the grip, the
quieter the golfer’s hands during the stroke. While keeping
the hands quiet, the larger grip also promotes the use of the
larger muscles throughout the stroke for more consistency
and better control.
By now, I have addressed all of the important specifications of putter fitting, except for one: Face balancing.
A face-balanced putter is a model where the face points
skyward when the shaft is suspended in a horizontal
position. The tendency of this design is to remain square
to the target line during the takeaway and follow through.
This is a great feature for the golfer who keeps the putter
on the target line throughout the putt. It is more stable on
an off-center impact and helps to remain square throughout
the entire stroke. However, it is not a good feature for a
golfer who fans the putter face open and closed or takes the
putter away on an inside track in relation to the target line.
Face balancing in these situations works against the natural
motion of the stroke.
Observe the golfer you are fitting during the length and
loft evaluation stages of the process. Note the take-away
and follow through of their stroke. If they keep the head on
line with the path, they are a candidate for a face-balanced
model. However, observing any other stoke tendencies may
eliminate the recommendation of a face-balanced design.
You are now armed with the knowledge to perform a
short game equipment fitting. Knowledge is power, and you
have the power to improve other golfers’ games. That feels as
good as knocking the pin from off the green on successive
holes. Happy fitting. Cm
Techniques for
Better Fitting
Four Steps to a Successful Wedge Fitting
1
Identify the appropriate specifications used in an
iron fitting, including shaft flex, club length, grip
size, lie angle, etc. Carry these measurements over
to the wedges.
2
Select the necessary lofts to complement the
wedge set. (Either three- or four-degree increments,
depending on the golfer’s 14-club set configuration.)
3
Choose wedges with the bounce angles, sole design
and width that meet the golfer’s versatility and
performance needs.
4
Fit the wedges with shafts that will provide sufficient
feedback on partial swings. Maintain a consistent
length interval between each wedge and the next.
Six Steps to a Successful Putter Fitting
1
Fit the putter for length using a gripless, uncut shaft.
Determine where the golfer experiences the most
control and comfort in his or her grip.
2
Set lie so that the sole is flush to the ground.
3
Identify loft by minimizing the skid of the ball.
4
Establish the static weight of the putter to provide
enough mass to keep the wrists and elbows from
being active in the stroke, so the golfer uses larger
muscles, instead.
5
Fit the golfer into the largest diameter grip the golfer
finds comfortable.
6
Ensure that face-balanced putters are fit only into the
appropriate putting strokes.
Jeff Sheets is Golfsmith’s Vice President of Research and Development. He has more than 18 years of golf club R&D experience.
Clubhead specifications can be found at clubmaking.golfsmith.com.
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