21 - Wines of Portugal

Transcription

Geographical
Indications
& DOC’s
© Duarte Belo
EUROPA
DÃO E
LAFÕES
5 DOC Lafões
6 DOC Dão
VINHO REGIONAL
TERRAS DO DÃO
250
TÁVORA E VAROSA
4 DOC Távora - Varosa
VINHO
VERDE
VINHO REGIONAL TERRAS DE CISTER
1 DOC Vinho Verde
GRAPE
VARIETIES
PORTO
E DOURO
VINHO REGIONAL DO MINHO
3 DOC Douro/Porto
VINHO REGIONAL DURIENSE
BAIRRADA
7 DOC Bairrada
VINHO REGIONAL
BEIRA ATLÂNTICO
LISBOA
9 DOC Encostas de Aire
10 DOC Óbidos
11 DOC Alenquer
12 DOC Arruda
13 DOC Torres Vedras
14 DOC Lourinhã
15 DOC Bucelas
16 DOC Carcavelos
17 DOC Colares
VINHO REGIONAL
LISBOA
17
16
PENÍNSULA
DE SETÚBAL
1
2
2
3
4
TEJO
2
3
5
18 DOC Tejo
8
7
VINHO REGIONAL
TEJO
6
TRÁS-OS-MONTES
2 DOC Trás-os-Montes
8
VINHO REGIONAL
TRANSMONTANO
9
14 10
13 11
12
15
19
19 DOC Setúbal
20 DOC Palmela
BEIRA INTERIOR
8 DOC Beira Interior
18
VINHO REGIONAL
TERRAS DA BEIRA
21
20
21
21
VINHO REGIONAL
PENÍNSULA DE SETÚBAL
21
ALENTEJO
21 DOC Alentejo
VINHO REGIONAL
ALENTEJANO
AÇORES
27 DOC Graciosa
28 DOC Biscoitos
29 DOC Pico
VINHO REGIONAL
AÇORES
22
23
27
28
24
25
MADEIRA
26 DOC Madeira
ALGARVE
22 DOC Lagos
23 DOC Portimão
24 DOC Lagoa
25 DOC Tavira
VINHO REGIONAL
ALGARVE
VINHO REGIONAL
TERRAS MADEIRENSES
26
29
29
This selection is above all else a very personal
one. These are my top 50 Portuguese wines from
around 1,200 different wines I tasted between
October 2011 and April 2012, mostly in Portugal
but also in London. Some wines I tasted twice,
occasionally three times. My one main condition
was that they had to be made exclusively from
Portuguese grape varieties, with the honourable
exceptions of Tinta Roriz (Spain’s Tempranillo)
and the French variety Alicante Bouschet, which
seems to make better wine in Portugal than in
France. They had to be well made and fulfil wine’s
first duty to the wine drinker: to give pleasure.
I was particularly keen to include as many white
wines as possible – many people think of Portugal
as a red-wine stronghold but I love the distinctive
characteristics and freshness and texture of her
white wines. Among both reds and whites, I was
looking for wines that could come from nowhere
else but Portugal. Wines that expressed through
these indigenous varieties the land, the climate
and the people.
Of course there are many wines I did not taste
but I never refused to consider a wine as long
as it did not include Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah,
Chardonnay, Viognier or other varieties that have
colonised the wine world. I have nothing against
them but they are everywhere. My 50 wines tell
another story – in some cases, the rediscovery of
varieties that had almost disappeared or were
not highly valued; in others, the good sense and
wonderful synergy of traditional field blends.
There are also many other wines I would have
liked to include and I’d like to thank all those
producers who offered up their wines for me to
taste but whose wines are not in this selection.
Putting the wines into a sensible tasting order
was particularly difficult, especially as I have
never tasted all 50 wines in the same sitting. So I
apologise if any one wine is put at a disadvantage
by the one that precedes it. Along with my tasting
notes, I’ve given suggested drinking dates but in
many cases these are on the conservative side,
presuming that most people like to drink their
wine when the fruit is still to the fore. However,
one thing I have learned over the last few years is that
many Portuguese wines have an amazing ability
to age spectacularly well, so many of these wines
will still be giving pleasure long after this booklet
has been recycled. Some of these wines are really
too young to be drunk now but that, too, is a matter
of personal preference.
You can taste the wines in any order. I like to
taste reds first, when my palate is raring to go,
then to be refreshed by the whites when the
tannins have taken their toll. Last but not least,
I’m delighted to include several sweet and fortified
wines – underappreciated and usually underpriced.
I hope you enjoy this tasting and that it
encourages you to seek out the most
Portuguese of Portuguese wines.
1
Valle Pradinhos, Porta Velha, 2009
Valle Pradinhos
Region: Trás-os-Montes
Production: 30,000
Winemaker: Rui Cunha
RRP: £7.75
Address: Casal de Valle Pradinhos, Valle Pradinhos,
5340-422 Macedo de Cavaleiros
Contact: João Tamagnini Belo
Email: [email protected]
Phone +912 286 797
Website: www.vallepradinhos.pt
UK Importer: The Wine Society
Address: Gunnels Wood Road, Stevenage , Herts, SG1 2BT
"A blend of Tinta Roriz, Tinta Amarela, Touriga Nacional grown on clay over schist
with some quartz. Dark damson colour. Slightly reductive at the time of tasting.
Lively mineral dark fruit. Relatively light bodied, fresh and pure. Fine, silky fruit
tannins and such a nice change not to have oak! Has a real continental feel to it - dry
but fluid and fresh, not too sweet. Good value." 13.7% Drink 2011-16
Notes:
Quinta Lagoalva de Cima, Grande
Escolha Alfrocheiro, 2008
2
SOC. Agrícola Quinta Da Lagoalva De Cima SA
Region: Vinho Regional Tejo
Winemaker: Diogo Campilho and Pedro Pinhao
Address: Quinta Da Lagoalva De Cima, 2090-222 Alpiarca
Contact: Diogo Campilho
Phone +243 559 070
Website: www.lagoalva.pt
UK Importer: Clark Foyster Wines
Address: 15 South Ealing Road, London, W5 4QT
"Mid crimson. Lively, herbal - almost medicinal - nose, a little floral, more red fruit
than black, perfumed. Mouthwatering throughout, silky fresh tannins. Really tangy
cherry fruit on the finish with a light spiciness. A good example of this variety, which
is very often blended." 13.5% Drink 2010-14
Notes:
3
Campolargo, Alvarelhão, 2011
Campolargo
Region: Bairrada
Winemaker: Carlos Campolargo and Raquel Carvalho
Address: Malaposta, 3780-294 Anadia
Contact: Carlos Campolargo
Phone +231 519 000
Website: www.campolargovinhos.com
UK Importer: Seeking UK representation
"Vines are around 10 years old but this is the first time they have produced a varietal
wine. Lightish cherry colour. Highly perfumed - sour cherry and a touch leafy,
peppery. High acid and scented on the palate. Tanins a little rustic yet has lovely
freshness even with a touch of residual sugar. Tangy and distinctive." 13.3% Drink
2012-14
Notes:
4
Quinta dos Barreiros, Gravato Vinhas
Velhas, 2008
Luís Duarte Albuquerque Roboredo e Castro
Region: Beira Interior
Winemaker: Luís Schepers Roboredo
Address: Quinta dos Barreiros, Mêda, 6430 - 051 Coriscada,
Portugal, Rua do Molhe, nr.488, 4150 - 500 Porto, Portugal
Contact: Luís Schepers Roboredo
Phone +919 110 502
Website: www.gravatoqb.pt
"95% Rufete, 5% Siria. 60-year-old vines. Two years in stainless steel. No oak. Mid,
bright crimson, looks youthful. Distinctive, non-international aroma. Delicate wild
berry fruit and garrigue. High acidity, lightish body but lingers long. Great ageing
potential even with this lightness - the classic concentration yet lightness of old
vines. Easy to overlook. Paper-fine tannins. Very elegant." 13% Drink 2011-18
Notes:
5
Filipa Pato, Nossa Calcário Tinto, 2010
F Pato Vinhos
Region: Bairrada
Production: 2,500
Winemaker: Filipa Pato
Address: Rua da Quinta Nova, Ribeiro da Gandara, 3780-017,
Amoreira da Gandara
Phone +961 736 945
Website: www.filipapato.net
UK Importer: Clark Foyster Wines
Address: 15 South Ealing Road , London, W5 4QT
"Chalky subsoil with some stony clay. Strong Atlantic influence. Fermented in open
oak casks with 20% stems, aged in 500-litre French oak (Portuguese cooperage),
30% new. Bottled early May 2011. Deep cherry red. Lovely pure Baga aromas of red
fruit, wild scrubland and a light perfume, overlaid with a rocky, mineral character very elegant. Rich in fruit with just a light influence of oak. Well structured as much
by freshness as by tannin. Very young, deep, lively and bright but much more to
come if you can wait. Real purity and excellent length. Sweet-fruited, juicy, long
finish." Drink 2012-18
Notes:
6
Luis Pato, Quinta da Ribeirinho
Pé Franco, 2011
Luis Pato
Region: Vinho Regional Beiras
Production: 1,050 (0,75L), 100 (1,5L), 50 (3L)
Winemaker: Luis Pato
RRP: £80
Address: Rua de Santo André, 39, 3780-502 Óis do Bairro
Contact: Luis Pato
Phone +231 596 432
Website: www.luispato.com
UK Importer: Raymond Reynolds
Address: Calico Lane, Furness Vale, High Peak, SK23 7SW
"Ungrafted vines planted on sandy soil. Lovely (white) peppery and dusty nose with
intense but introverted red-fruit aromas - the raspberry and graphite character of
Loire Cab Franc but without the leafiness. Going back to it, there's also a slight but
definite minty character. Bright and lively and so fresh with a firm tannic structure though the tannins are super-fine – that is a perfect fit with the depth of fresh,
vibrant fruit giving excellent balance even now. Becomes more fragrant in the glass.
Minerally chew on the finish. Tight and energetic." 12% Drink 2013-23
Notes:
7
Dulcineia dos Santos Ferreira, Sidónio
de Sousa Garrafeira, 2005
Dulcineia dos Santos Ferreira (Vinhos Sidonio de Sousa)
Region: Bairrada
Production: 7,000
Winemaker: Paulo Sousa
Address: R. Passadiço nº 302 3780-128 Sangalhos - Portugal
Contact: Paulo Sousa
Phone +347 46 121
"Old-vine Baga. Fermented in lagares and cement and inox. Aged in 4,000-litre
Portuguese oak. Deep, clear garnet. Sweet fragrant undergrowth. Silky tension.
Utterly fresh and so bright even though it has the beginnings of complexity of age.
Small dark berry fruit, a little darker than the Reserva in fruit character. A firmer grip
but still smooth and silky. Very very long. Not a wine for neophytes. This is the last
vintage because all the old Baga vines have been replaced by Merlot. What a tragedy."
14.5% Drink 2011-30
Notes:
8
Quinta do Escudial, Vinhas Velhas,
2007
Quinta do Escudial - Vinhos, LDA
Region: Dão
Winemaker: Vines & Wines - Miguel Oliveira
RRP: £10
Address: Vodra, 6270-554 Seia, Portugal
Contact: Miguel Marques Da Silva
Phone +916 993 120
Website: www.quintadoescudial.com
"50% Touriga Nacional, 15% Alfrocheiro, 20% Tinta Roriz, 15% Jaen. Neck label
proudly states they use no oak. Very dark like elderberry juice. Rich and intense but
not in the least showy. Pure fruit and minerality in a restrained yet compact style."
14% Drink 2011-16
Notes:
9
Quinta das Maias Jaen, 2008
S. A. Faldas da Serra - Quinta das Maias
Region: Dão
Production: 5,000
Winemaker: Rui Reguinga and João Santiago
RRP: £22
Address: Rua Direita 12, Abrunhosa Do Mato, 3530-050
Cunha Baixa
Contact: Luis Lourenço
Phone +219 249 373
Website: www.quintamaias.pt (coming soon)
UK Importer: Raymond Reynolds Ltd
"They bought this Quinta in 1997 so it is not part of the original family vineyard. Dark
crimson. Nice combination of peppery red fruit and lightly herbal. Wild, red-fruit
freshness. Lively, energetic. Fine tannins, still present. Finishes fresh and lively and
lingers. Pretty but not simple. The flower on the label is Scottish broom, typical of the
estate." 13.5% Drink 2012-16
Notes:
10
Casa da Passarela, Vinhas Velhas, 2008
O Abrigo da Passarela LDA
Region: Dão
Production: 10,000
Winemaker: Paulo José Pereira Nunes
Address: Rua De Santos Amaro No 3, Passarela,
6290-093 Lagarinhos
Contact: Paulo José Pereira Nunes
Phone +238 486 312
Website: www.oabrigodapassarela.pt
"Field blend of many varieties – mainly Touriga Nacional, Alfrocheiro and Jaen – on
granitic soils. Deep cherry crimson. Fresh, small-berried red fruits - redcurrant and
cranberry - and then a light peppery overlay. Gently fragrant. Lots of sweet spice on
the palate, dense but silky tannins and a fine freshness to finish. Harmonious whole.
Concentrated but elegant too. Has a delicacy that the Reserva lacks." 13.5% Drink
2011-16
Notes:
11
Julia Kemper, Tinto, 2009
Julia Kemper Wines
Region: Dão
Production: 20,000
Winemaker: Julia Kemper and Vines & Wines
RRP: £19.99
Address: Quinta do Cruzeiro, Oliveira, 3530-239 Mangualde
Contact: Júlia de Melo Kemper
Phone +934 457 707
Website: www.http://juliakemper.blogspot.pt/
UK Importer: Alliance Wine Limited
Address: 7 Beechfield Road, Willowyard Estate, Beith,
Ayrshire, KA15 1LN
"50% Touriga Nacional, 25% Tinta Roriz, 15% Alfrocheiro, 10% Jaen. Vinified in
granite lagares. 12 months in French oak. Deep blackish crimson. Dark, more savoury
and mineral than the very perfumed varietal Touriga Nacional but still has fragrant
fruit. Oak more evident than on the Touriga Nacional, savoury oak char currently
dominates the finish and needs some time to mellow and allow the wine to shine.
Dense but fine tannins. Firm grip, dry finish." 13.5% Drink 2014-20
Notes:
12
Quinta do Mouro, Touriga Nacional,
2006
Miguel António de Orduña Viegas Louro
Region: Vinho Regional Alentejano
Production: 4,700
Winemaker: Eng.º Luis Louro
Address: Quinta do Mouro, 7100-056 Estremoz, Portugal
Contact: Eng.º Luis Louro
Phone +268 334 097
Website: www.quintadomouro.com
Address: Calico Lane, Furness Vale, Essex, RM18 7EH
"Produced in some vintages only. A dark, relatively hidden, enticing beauty. Sweetly
fragrant on the nose. Slightly balsamic and a touch of citrus, even eucalyptus. Spicy,
too. Generous, dense, quite oaky even now but velvet-smooth and with the
freshness of their blend. Seductive and carressing though the tannins are firm as
well as fine. Great concentration without excessive perfume. Much more to come and
finishes fresh even with all the perfectly ripe fruit." 14.5% Drink 2012-18
Notes:
13
Esporão, TN Touriga Nacional, 2008
Esporão
Winemaker: David Baverstock
RRP: £26.75
Address: Avenida do Restelo, 44, C.P 1400-315, Lisbon
Contact: Nicolas Giannone
Phone +213 031 540
Website: www.esporao.com
UK Importer: Charles Hawkins & Partners
Address: The Offices, Glaston Road, Uppingham, Rutland,
LE15 9EU
"Vines were planted – on schist – in the 1980s, before the variety was officially
authorised in the region. Aged in French oak barrels, 50% new. Black core, light
aroma. Rich, warm and spicy and then fluid and fresh on the palate. Very fine tannins
and long finish. Aromatic but not OTT, even some red fruit and sweet blueberry but
also a tad smoky. Fluid, fresh and silky. Juicy freshness and quite different in style
from Douro Tourigas. Elegant and finishes lightheartedly." 14.5 Drink 2012-18
Notes:
14
Sonho Lusitano, Pedra e Alma, 2009
Sonho Lusitano Vinhos Lda.
Production: Varies: only produced in the best years
Winemaker: Rui Reguinga
RRP: £20 - 25
Address: UK office: The Barn at the Rookery, Ashford-in-theWater, Nr Bakewell, Derbyshire DE45 1QQ
Contact: Richard Mayson
Phone +44 (0)1629 810444
Website: www.sonholusitano.pt
UK Importer: Richards Walford
Address: Hales Lodge, Pickworth, Stamford, Lincs , PE9 4DJ
"Field blend of 30-year-old vines, mostly Trincadeira, Aragonez and Alicante
Bouschet. 18 months in new French oak, which shows more now than when I tasted
this as a barrel sample in October 2011. Dry, savoury, dark fruit. Sweet chocolatey oak
flavours, really dense fruit underneath. Very smooth and very long, needing time for
the oak dominance to fade and allow the fruit out more. But it has that lovely
effortless concentration and harmony of an old vine blend - density, freshness and
polished tannins. Very moreish." 14.5% Drink 2014-20
Notes:
15
Niepoort, Robustus, 2007
Niepoort Vinhos S.A
Region: Douro
Winemaker: Dirk Niepoort and Luis Seabra
RRP: £80
Address: Rua Cândido do Reis, 670, 4400-071
Vila Nova de Gaia, Portugal
Contact: Verena Niepoort
Phone + 223 777 777
Website: www.niepoort-vinhos.com
"Horribly heavy bottle but a beautiful cork. Field blend of Touriga Franca, Tinta
Amarela, Tinta Roriz, Touriga Nacional, Tinto Cão, etc. Vines aged 60–100+ years.
50% stems retained. Aged four years in 2000-litre wooden vats. Mid ruby, lighter
colour than most Douro reds. Refined aromas of red fruits and a touch of spice with a
strong mineral element. Not giving much away but very inviting. Firm, silky tannins
and a lovely dry finish with freshness and length. Deliciously free from oak overlay.
A wine that dares to be different, and succeeds. I love its slighly austere pepperiness
and complete lack of excess sweetness. I may have been too conservative with the
drink dates." 13.5% Drink 2012-22
Notes:
16
Altano Quinta do Ataíde Reserva
Touriga Nacional, 2008
Symington Family Estates
Region: Douro
Production: 3,177 Cases
Winemaker: Charles Symington & Pedro Correia
Address: Travessa Barão de Forrester, 86, Apartado 26,
4431-901 Vila Nova de Gaia, Portugal
Phone +223 776 300
Website: www.symington.com
UK Importer: John E Fells
Address: Prince Edward Street, Berkhamsted, Hertfordshire,
HP4 3EZ
"From organically farmed vineyards in the Douro Superior, planted late 70s and early
80s. Coolish ferment. 10 months in 400-litre French oak, which is probably why the
oak influence is subtle. Gorgeous ripe fruit on the nose, fully ripe but no raisining or
overripeness so that it also has that great savoury Douro edge. Then surprisingly dry
and almost dusty on the palate, but fresh and lingering. Powder-fine, dry tannins.
Sophisticated, not obvious, easy to underestimate. Leaves the mouth feeling fresh. A
model of moderation, just as their technical sheet is a model of great information
without hype." 14% Drink 2012-18
Notes:
17
Quinta de Chocapalha,
CH Touriga Nacional, 2008
Quinta de Chocapalha - Casa Agricola das Mimosas, LDA
Region: Vinho Regional Lisboa
Production: 2,000 - 3,000
Winemaker: Sandra Tavares da Silva
Address: Quinta de Chocapalha, Casa Agricola das Mimosas,
Lda., PT-2580-081 Aldeia Galega da Merceana, PORTUGAL
Contact: Alice Tavares da Silva
Phone +263 679 317
Website: www.chocapalha.com
UK Importer: Corney and Barrow Ltd
Address: 1, Thomas More Street, London, E1W 1YZ
"20 months in new French barriques. Deep black cherry colour. A touch of smoky
reduction. Wonderfully aromatic Touriga Nacional. Sweet dark cherries, more red
fruit than black, a touch floral on the mid palate. Really quite a different style from
typical Douro and Dão Touriga Nacionals. A very slight minty note but also a touch
herbal. And a mushroom aroma too. Gentler than the Douro wines. Chocolate
smoothness but a nice wild herbs aftertaste. Very supple and good length.
Satisfyingly gentle." 14% Drink 2012-17
Notes:
18
Quinta do Noval, 2008
Quinta do Noval
Region: Douro
Winemaker: Antonio Agrellos
RRP: £39
Address: Avenida Diogo Leite 254, 4400 - 111,
Vila Nova De Gai, Portugal
Contact: Rute Monteiro
Phone +223 770 270
Website: www.quintadonoval.com
UK Importer: Gonzalez Byass UK
Address: The Hyde Woodcock Hill , Coopers Green Lane,
St Albans , Herts , AL4 9HJ
"Field blend but mostly Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca and Tinto Cão. 15 months in
French oak. Dark black cherry with black core. Bags of sweet oak spice initially on the
nose. Touch of liquorice and pepper. Dark on the palate, fine and savoury with very
fine tannins, tightly structured. Dark fruited but still fresh and an elegant dry finish –
currently less expressive on the palate than on the nose. Very refined. Alcohol shows
a little on the nose but is more balanced on the palate. Dense but fluid and so much
more to come. Hidden at the moment." 14.5% Drink 2013-20
Notes:
19
Ramos Pinto, Duas Quintas Reserva,
2009
Adriano Ramos Pinto - Vinhos, S.A.
Region: Douro
Winemaker: João Nicolau de Almeida
RRP: £30
Address: Av. Ramos Pinto, 380 4400-266
Contact: Ana Rato
Phone +223 707 000
Website: www.amospinto.pt
UK Importer: Maisons Marques et Domaines
Address: 9A Compass House, Smugglers Way, London,
SW18 1DB
"Mostly Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca. Deep dark crimson. Restrained,
minerally dark fruit – elderberry and blackberry rather than plum or damson. Stony,
rocky aroma overlays some very ripe but almost savoury fruit. Richness and just
enough freshness, even with all that alcohol. Fine, firm savoury tannins. Really
sturdy without being brutish. Surprisingly juicy finish. Very accomplished Douro red.
Touch of oak char from the new oak (20%). Tight and densely structured but you can
see it has that fine fruit and freshness yet to open out." 15% Drink 2013-21
Notes:
20
Quinta do Crasto, Reserva
Vinhas Velhas, 2009
Quinta do Crasto, S.A.
Region: Douro
Winemaker: Manuel Lobo
RRP: £19.00
Address: Quinta do Crasto, Gouvinhas, 5060-063, Sabrosa
Contact: Miguel Roquette
Phone +226 105 493
Website: www.quintadocrasto.pt
UK Importer: Enotria Winecellars Ltd.
Address: 4-8 Chandos Park Estate, Chandos Road, London,
NE10 6NF
"Old-vine field blend of 25-30 varieties. Dark black cherry colour. Basket pressed. 16
months in French barriques. Damsons and blueberries on the nose and oak spice.
Richly flavoured but surprisingly elegant on the palate. Old vine syndrome. Juicy and
almost a red-fruited sweetness on the palate but also finishes fresh." 14.5% Drink
2013-20
Notes:
21
Quinta da Gaivosa, Abandonado, 2009
Alves de Sousa
Region: Douro
Production: 4,000
Winemaker: Tiago Alves de Sousa and Anselmo Mendes
RRP: £65
Address: Quinta da Gaivosa, 5030-055
Santa Marta de Penaguiao, Portugal
Contact: Tiago Alves de Sousa
Phone +254 822 111
Website: www.alvesdesousa.com
UK Importer: Top Selection
Address: 16 Conduit Street, Mayfair, London, W1S 2XL
"Field blend of 80-year-old vines, mostly Tinta Amarela, Touriga Franca, Touriga
Nacional, grown at the highest point on the estate. 18 months in new French oak.
Unnecessarily heavy bottle. Blackish dark crimson. Wonderfully fragrant and lifted
wild fruits and a marked thyme aroma. Dense and savoury on the palate but not
heavy, counterbalanced by some oak sweetness. Effortless concentration and even
with all that tannin, still glides across the palate. Pretty oaky now but at least the oak
adds dark savour rather than sweetness." 14.5% Drink 2014-24
Notes:
22
Poeira, 2009
Jorge Nobre Moreira
Region: Douro
Production: 14,000
Winemaker: Jorge Moreira
Address: Quinta do Poeira, Provesende 5060-283 Sabrosa
Contact: Jorge Moreira
Phone +939 506 699
Website: www.poeira.pt
UK Importer: Fields, Morris & Verdin
Address: 24-34 Ingate Place, Battersea, London, SW8 3NS
"From the Cima Corgo region. 12 months in French oak. Colour of elderberry juice.
Fragrant with a light note of orange and bergamot, perhaps a touch reduced at the
moment. Intense but not fully revealed, not ready to come out of its shell yet. There's
fruit density rather than fruit flavour at the moment. Gentle red and dark fruit but
also really savoury and coal-like on the palate. Super-fine super-silky tannins even
now yet the concentration builds in the mouth to a long pure finish. Beautifully
balanced and elegant. Just fresh on the finish though the minerality is very marked
on the aftertaste, which adds to the freshness." 14% Drink 2013-20
Notes:
23
Wine & Soul, Quinta da Manoella VV,
2009
Wine & Soul, Lda
Region: Douro
Winemaker: Jorge Serôdio Borges and Sandra Tavares
Address: Av.Júlio de Freitas, nº6, Vale de Mendiz,
5085-101 Pinhão, Portugal
Contact: Sandra Tavares
Phone +254 738 076
Website: www.wineandsoul.com
UK Importer: Corney & Barrow
Address: 1 Thomas More Street, London, E1W 1YZ
"A property from Jorge Serôdio Borges' family. Field blend of more than 20 varieties,
centenarian vines, from the Pinhão Valley. Foot trodden. 20 months in mostly new
French barriques. Rich ruby crimson. Gentle pure fruit, quite restrained but still
fragrant and a little dusty/mineral and opens up to more floral overtones and a touch
of herbs. Sweet vanilla note on the finish. Tannins are fine grained but very dry and
need a lot more time in bottle (or a big steak) before they become silky. Even though
there's this dry concentration, it still has a smoothness across the mid palate, lithe
and waiting to come round." 14.5% Drink 2013-20
Notes:
24
Quinta do Vale Meão, 2009
Quinta do Vale Meão (F. Olazabal & Filhos)
Region: Douro
Production: 27,000
Winemaker: Francisco Olazabal
RRP: £65
Address: Quinta do Vale Meão, 5150-501 Vila Nova de Foz Côa,
Portugal
Contact: Luisa Olazabal
Phone +279 762 156
Website: www.quintadovalemeao.pt
"57% Touriga Nacional, 35% Touriga Franca, 5% Tinta Barroca, 3% Tinta Roriz from
the best and oldest vineyard. Aged in 100% new French oak, which adds some vanilla
sweetness. Dark purplish crimson. Fragrant aromas marked by Touriga Nacional's
hallmark bergamot note, though there's also plenty of minerally dark fruit and a hint
of black olives. Smells of the rocky terrain. Fabulously dry and mineral, with the fruit
held in check, giving that coal-dark character that I love about the Douro. Dry and
savoury on the finish, still pretty oaky, superb structure that gives elegant shape and
takes a supporting role though it does need time to show its best. Deftly fine almost
silky texture even with all those tannins." 14.5% Drink 2013-20
Notes:
25
Quinta do Vallado, Sousão, 2009
Quinta do Vallado
Region: Douro
Production: 5,000
Winemaker: Francisco Olzabal
RRP: £15
Address: Quinta do Vallado, Vilarinho dos Freires, 5050-364
Peso da Regua, Portugal
Contact: João Ferreira
Phone +254 323 147
Website: www.quintadovallado.com
UK Importer: Bibendum Wine Limited
Address: 113 Regents Park Road, London, NW1 8UR
"This is the same variety as Vinhão in Vinho Verde. 18 months in French oak. Dark as
elderberry juice, black core. Unbelievable colour! Dark-berried hedgerow fruit and
plenty of oak on the nose. Becoming more fragrant as it opens and showing a rocky
Douro origin. Rich, generous and smooth but the hallmark is intenese freshness and
lively fruit, even a slightly sour note on the aftertaste. Plush, dense texture
contrasts with the vibrant acidity and bright concentrated fruit and the alcohol not
too intrusive though you can feel it. Needs time. Perhaps it shows that in the Douro
this variety is better in a blend but it is still a successful rendition of this variety. A
little less oak influence might be better." 14.5% Drink 2012-17
Notes:
26
Quinta da Palmirinha Vinhão, 2010
Quinta da Palmirinha
Region: Vinho Verde
Production: 1,800
Winemaker: Pedro Lamas
Address: Rua da Rainha, 499 4600-632, Amarante, Portugal
Contact: Fernando Paiva
Phone +962 785 717
Website: www.portuguesestory.com/fernando-paiva
UK Importer: Portuguese Story, Ltd
Address: 3rd Floor, 28 Ely Place, London, EC1N 6TD
"Biodynamic. Vinhão grown along the banks of the Tâmega river. Ambient yeast. pH
3.27, TA 8.2 g/l! Total SO2 a mere 26 mg/l. Incredible colour - bright but dark purplish
crimson. Inviting, extreme, sour, red, wild-fruit aromas but the fruit is very very ripe,
as if it had been partially dried. Cherry and elderberry and more. The same on the
palate, like alcoholic elderberry juice with tannins. Very high acid, quite a grip. Really
sour cherry finish. Would be great with rich meat. Deliciously idiosyncratic, though
the nose reminds me a little of Recioto della Valpolicella but with a more sour note.
And the acidity is significantly higher, especially on the finish!" 11% Drink 2012-13
Notes:
27
Casca Wines, Monte Cascas Ramisco,
2009
Casca Wines
Region: Colares
Production: 800
Winemaker: Frederico Gomes and Helder Cunha
Address: Rua Romano Esteves 276 2750-576 Cascais,
Portugal, Ninho de empresas DNA Cascais - Gabinete 7, Cruz da
Popa, 2645-449 Alcabideche, Portugal
Contact: Helder Cunha
Phone +933 256 124
Website: www.cascawines.pt
UK Importer: Lusowest Trading & Consulting Ltd
Address: The Old Mill, Park Road, Shepton Mallet, Somerset,
BA4 5BS
"The 80-year-old Ramisco vines are 1 km from the Atlantic coast at 111 m above sea
level. Strong Atlantic influence, fresh and humid summers, morning fogs and salty
winds. Sandy soils over brownish limestone. Partially destemmed. Ambient yeast. 22
days' post-ferment maceration. 18 months in French oak - 1 of the 3 barrels was new.
Bottled Nov 2011. The most beautiful colour - orangy ruby - ie the colour of a much
older wine. And a wonderfully complex nose - dried roses, spice, oranges, red fruit
(red cherry and cranberry), liquorice. Lithe and energetic with a fine freshness, light
tannic grip and some oak still to the fore. Althought the tannins are dry, they are also
sweet. Wild and untamed and yet still fragrant." 11% Drink 2012-25
Notes:
28
Quinta das Bageiras, Grande Reserve
Bruto Natural, 2003
Quinta das Bágeiras - Mário Sérgio
Region: Bairrada
Production: 3,812
Winemaker: Rui Moura Alves
Address: Fogueira 3780-523, Sangalhos
Contact: Mário Sérgio
Phone +234 742 102
UK Importer: UKPOR IMPORT
Address: 48B Westow Hill, Crystal Palace, London, SE19 1RX
"Old-vine Maria Gomez and Bical. Aged 7 years on lees. Pale gold. Lovely complexity.
Rich, honey on toast and a touch of apple and ripe citrus. Full in the mouth but with
freshness, finesse and persistence. Some savoury/bready notes of age adding to the
complexity. Fine bead though the fizz has become quite gentle. Lots of pleasure and a
good food wine." 13.5% Drink 2009-15
Notes:
29
Biomanz, Dona Fátima Jampal, 2011
ManzWine
Production: 3,000
Winemaker: ManzWine
Address: Rua Rui Teles Palhinha nº 3 - 2º Esq; 2744-015 Porto
Salvo, Portugal
Contact: Raul Silva
Phone +214 269 710
Website: www.manzwine.com
"Six months in French oak. Just bottled (10 April 2012). Perfumed - both floral and
peachy but with the tang of something sharper like quince and green fruit. Like a
delicate Gewürz on the nose. But with better acidity and more citrus on the palate.
Doesn't have enormous length but it's great to see this variety on its own. The 2010,
which I tasted with a little more bottle age, tasted quite like a Loire Chenin." 13%
Drink 2012-13
Notes:
30
Casal Figueira, António, 2011
Casal Figueira
Production: 5,000
Winemaker: Antonio Carvalho
RRP: £22
Address: Rua Germano Fontes, 6. 2560-099 Maceira- Portugal
Contact: Marta Soares
Phone +914 673 242
Website: www.facebook.com/casal figueira
"100% Vital. Aged in oak though not much new. Just bottled, April 2012. Lovely
freshness and tension. Lots of limey citrus combined with a stony restraint. Long and
tight and will surely improve and become more complex in bottle. The 2009 tasted a
year ago was riper with rich lemony fruit with a hint of apricot and a strong mineral
streak. Lightly mealy oak flavour and creamy texture but most of all it’s the lemon
freshness, touch of grapefruit and the intensity of flavour that stands out, even with
the very moderate alcohol and delicate body. Pure, taut, vibrant and mouthwatering
but so elegant and delicate. A lovely, intensely refreshing wine. It may well age
much longer than this." 12% Drink 2013-16
Notes:
31
Filipa Pato, FP, 2011
F Pato Vinhos
Region: Vinho Regional Beiras
Production: 13,000
Winemaker: Filipa Pato
Address: Rua da Quinta Nova, Ribeiro da Gandara, 3780-017,
Amoreira da Gandara
Contact: Filipa Pato
Phone +961 736 945
Website: www.filipapato.net
UK Importer: Clark Foyster Wines Ltd
"Strong Atlantic influence. 50% Bical, 50% Arinto. Fermented 80% in tank, 20% in
used French oak. Fermentation stopped naturally at 5 g/l residual sugar. Touch of
smoke or flint on the nose - possibly a very slight note of reduction at this stage. But
also a fine mealy/creamy aroma even though the oak influence is so slight. Rich and
rounded and mouthfilling. Not bone dry. Deliciously creamy. With flavours of green
apple and grapefruit and peach. Generous and rich but still fresh. Persistent, too."
12.5% Drink 2012-15
Notes:
32
Dominó, Monte das Pratas Branco, 2010
Vitor Claro
Production: 640
Winemaker: Vitor Claro
Address: Rua Cândido dos Reis, 670 4400-071,
Contact: Niepoort Projectos
Phone +936 019 583
Website: www.niepoort-projectos.com
"Made by Vitor Claro, a Portuguese chef bitten by the wine bug and inspired by the
potential of old vines. His first vintage. A field blend of Alicante Branco (Palomino
Fino), Fernão Pires, three types of Muscatel, three types of Arinto, Rabo de Ovelha,
etc. grown on limestone soils in Portalegre. Salty and a little reductive. Complex
aromas: creamy, mineral, reductive, all those things that are not fruit, then grapefruit
and quince tart freshness on the palate. Mouthwatering finish. Makes me want to
eat. Slight oak note on the palate and a creaminess in the texture. Still very good
after a week open in the fridge (reduction disappeared). I am not sure about the drink
dates as the wine has no track record." 12% Drink 2012-14
Notes:
33
Rui Reguinga, Terrenus, 2010
Rui Reguinga Enologia Unipessoal, Lda
Production: 6,000
RRP: £15.00
Address: Travessa do Calvário, nº26, 2080-174 Almeirim
Contact: Rui Reguinga
Phone +243 592 049
Website: www.ruireguinga.com
UK Importer: The Wine Society
Address: Gunnels Wood Road, Stevenage, Herts, SG1 2BT
"Arinto, Fernão Pires and Roupeiro bushvines from old vineyards, interplanted –
white varieties picked out from among the red. Highest vineyard area in southern
Portugal (700 metres) and very close to the Spanish border. Partially barrel
fermented in new French oak. Very pale. Gentle, sophisticated, creamy nose. Lovely
restrained concentration of old vines. Fresh citrus, a little peachy, a touch herbal.
Great tension and freshness and zest. Salty mineral finish and long. Crafted but not
overcrafted. Very slight Muscat influence but more peachy than grapey. Salty
freshness with the complex spice of very moderate oak. Very long. Subtle and
refined." 13% Drink 2011-13+
Notes:
34
Fitapreta, Palpite Reserva, 2009
Fita Preta Vinhos
Production: 3,650
Winemaker: António Maçanita
Address: Tapada da Ajuda ISA INOVISA 1349-017 Lisboa
Contact: Laura Ramalho
Phone +213 147 297
UK Importer: The Exceptional Wine Company Ltd
Address: Gatehouse Farm, Rogate, Hants, GU31 5DB
"Fitapreta is a partnership between viticulturist David Booth and winemaker António
Maçanita. David died suddenly and tragically in April this year. 42% Arinto, 31%
Antão Vaz, 17% Verdelho. Mostly barrel fermented (50% new) and aged, with lees
stirring, though some in tank. Malo for only 10% of the wine. Very pale gold. Intense
mix of aromas: smoky lapsang, creamy, cedary oak and salty - not to mention some
Verdelho perfume and lemon clarity. Oak is evident but not overwhelming on the
palate. There's freshnss though it is full bodied and bold and that freshness is
amplified by a very slight bitterness on the finish. Harmonious and long and lots of
potential for further complexity." 13.5% Drink 2011-15
Notes:
35
Quinta do Quetzal, Reserva Antão Vaz,
2009
Quinta do Quetzal
Region: Alentejo
Production: 7,000
Address: Apartado 19-7960-909
Contact: Reto Jorg
Phone +284 441 618
Website: www.quintadoquetzal.com
"Pale gold. Buttery and nutty. Creamy/mealy but still mineral. Savoury oatmeal,
complex. The oak makes the wine but it's not overly oaky in taste – more the
structure than the flavour. Rather burgundian despite the completely different
grape variety. And a certain woodiness coming through." 14% Drink 2011-15
Notes:
36
Quinta das Maias, Malvasia Fina, 2011
S.A. Faldas da Serra - Quinta das Maias
Region: Dão
Production: 5,000
Winemaker: Rui Reguinga and João Santiago
RRP: £15
Address: Rua Direita 12, Abrunhosa do Mato, 3530-050
Cunha Baixa
Contact: Luis Lourenço
Phone +219 249 373
Website: www.quintamaias.pt (coming soon)
"Malvasia Fina always better in Maias, Encruzado at Roques. 10% fermented in oak to
give mid palate weight. Delicately fragrant, lightly peachy but also something a little
more tangy/cedary. Doesn't yet have that touch of honey that develops after six
months in bottle but it has lovely weight as well a sour pear-like freshness on the
creamy palate and a delicate cedar note at the end. An elegant whole with a more
stony aftertaste so that the wine takes you on a journey from fruit to terroir.
Becomes not only more creamy but also more mineral as it warms up in the glass. Dry
and refined but lots of flavour." Drink 2012-15
Notes:
37
Quinta de Saes, Reserva Encruzado,
2010
Quinta da Pellada Unipessoal, Lda.
Region: Dão
Production: 7,500
Winemaker: Alvaro Castro
Address: Quinta da Pellada 6270-141 Pinhanços (Seia)
Contact: Alvaro Castro
Phone +238 486 133
Website: www.quintadapellada.com
"One month ferment and two months' bâtonnage. They made two Encruzado wines
in 2010 because they had more than usual and it was very good. Dusty mineral citrus.
But also very lightly floral. Very high acidity, tight and long. Mineral aftertaste and so
much more to come. Pure and very young. Mouthwatering and so long." 13% Drink
2012-18
Notes:
38
Quinta da Pellada, Primus, 2009
Quinta da Pellada Unipessoal, Lda.
Region: Dão
Production: 2,500
Winemaker: Alvaro Castro
Address: Quinta da Pellada 6270-141 Pinhanços (Seia)
Contact: Alvaro Castro
Phone +238 486 133
Website: www.quintadapellada.com
"Field blend including Encruzado, Cerceal, Bical, Verdelho, Terrantez, etc. – a total of
39 varieties, 50-year-old vines grown on sand and clay over granite. Fermented in
both tank and barrique. Very pale. Initially mineral, perhaps a little salty, on the nose,
quite closed (when tasted end 2011 when the components seemed only just married
and needing more time). Delicate white peppery note. Just a touch of peach but
mainly rapier-like citrus tension and length. Great acidity just offset with a lightly
creamy texture. Oak so well in the background. Taut, expressive and long. Restrained
by that minerality and old-vine concentration without any excess weight. Leaves a
spicy tang on your tongue at the very end." 13% Drink 2013-20
Notes:
39
Vales de Ambrães, Avesso, 2011
Prosa - Produtos e Serviços Agrícolas, SA
Region: Vinho Verde
Production: 10,000
Winemaker: António Sousa
Address: Avenida da Boavista, 1277/81, 4º, 4100-130 Porto,
Rua Trigadeiro Nunes da Ponte N.º 1510, Tuias, 4630 - 239
Marco de Canaveses
Contact: António Sousa
Phone +967 571 644
"Mineral, and a little sulphurous at this young age (tasted very soon after bottling,
April 2012). Intense and tastes slightly off dry (RS 5 g/l apparently) though there's
terrific freshness. Concentrated and surprisingly powerful on the palate. I didn't
expect Avesso to have this depth. Creamy citrus with a taut stony intensity. A hint
of vegetal character but also a little peppery. As it opens up, there's an impressive
amount of fruit flavour for what is otherwise a very restrained wine." 13% Drink
2012-13
Notes:
40
Adega de Monção, 2011
Adega Cooperativa Regional de Moncão, CRL
Region: Vinho Verde
Production: 480,500
Winemaker: Fernando Moura
Address: Cruzes, 4950-279 Mazedo
Contact: Armando Fontainhas
Phone +251 656 120
Website: www.adegademoncao.pt
UK Importer: Clark Foyster Wines Ltd
"Fermented at 18–20 ºC. Plenty of CO2 visible – and spritz on the palate. Intense but
delicate fruit – ripe citrus foundation but lightly floral too and a peachy richness from
the Trajadura to balance the taut freshness of the Alvarinho. Attractive note of
dusty stones. Just off dry, gently textured with pear flavours on the palate, less
citrusy than on the nose , and with a light sour aftertaste reinforcing the freshness.
Classic, top-notch Vinho Verde. Lots of pleasure without too much alcohol. Lovely
balance and harmony and a stony, delicately grainy aftertaste." 11.5% Drink 2012-13
Notes:
41
Quinta de Soalheiro, Primeiras Vinhas
Alvarinho, 2010
Quinta de Soalheiro
Region: Vinho Verde
Winemaker: Joáo Antonio Cerdeira
RRP: £25
Address: Alvaredo, Melgaço, 4960-010 Alvaredo
Phone +251 416 769
Website: www.soalheiro.com
"Moncão and Melgaço subregion. Intense fruit aromas of citrus, pineapple and green
fig with a a bit of celery thrown in. Utterly seductive on the palate - all that
wonderful ripe fruit allied with lovely freshness and that sour mineral edge typcial of
Vinho Verde. Not sure if this is off dry or if the fruit is just very ripe. Very long indeed.
Sometimes I have found Soalheiro wines almost too ripe, too broad but this shows
excellent concentration and harmony without contradicting its Vinho Verde origins."
13% Drink 2012-15+
Notes:
42
Afros, Loureiro, 2009
Casal do Paço Padreiro - Sociedade Vitivinícola, Lda.
Region: Vinho Verde
Production: 25,333
Winemaker: Pedro Bravo and Rui Cunha
Address: Casal do Paço, Padreiro -(S. Salvador), 4970-500
Arcos de Valdevez - Portugal
Contact: Vasco Croft
Phone +914 206 772
Website: www.afros-wine.com
UK Importer: Les Caves de Pyrène
Address: Pew Corner, Old Portsmouth Road, Artington,
Guildford, GU3 1LP
"Name changed to Aphros from the 2011 vintage. From the Lima subregion.
Fermented at 15–18 ºC. A touch of CO2 still visible. Gently honeyed nose, so inviting,
still with citrus purity and a touch floral. RS 6.1 g/l. A nutty aroma too, not unlike
Hunter Valley Semillon. More woody (not oaky) on the palate. Rich though fresh.
Creamy texture on the long finish. Having tasted the Loureiro 2008, I know this will
get more interesting still, even though it does seem to mature quite quickly." 12%
Drink 2010-14
Notes:
43
Quinta de La Rosa, Branco, 2010
Quinta de la Rosa
Region: Douro
Production: 15,000
Winemaker: Jorge Moreira
RRP: £15
Address: Quinta de la Rosa, Pinhao 5085-215, Portugal
Contact: Sophia Bergqvist
Phone +254 732 254
Website: www.quintadelarosa.com
UK Importer: Fields Morris & Verdin
Address: Unit 28-30 Southbank Business Centre ,
Ponton Road, London , SW8 5BL
"35% Viosinho, 35% Rabigato plus others, including Gouveio and Côdega de Larinho.
Long, drawn-out harvest in 2010. 50% fermented and matured in barrel. Lovely
spiced and stony aroma with a touch of reductive smokiness at this young stage (Oct
2011). Tight, zesty, less rich in the mouth than I expected, more tension, but has lots
of energy and verve." 13.3% Drink 2012-16
Notes:
44
Niepoort, Coche, 2010
Niepoort Vinhos S.A
Region: Douro
Production: 1,900
Winemaker: Dirk Niepoort and Luis Seabra
RRP: £65
Address: Rua Cândido dos Reis, 670, 4400-071 Vila Nova de
Gaia, Portugal
Contact: Verena Niepoort
Phone +223 777 777
Website: www.niepoort-vinhos.com
"Field blend of Rabigato, Côdega de Larinho, Arinto, etc. A little smoky and reductive,
as you would expect for a Coche-Dury tribute wine. Opening up on the nose to
intense and minerally citrus, then pure and concentrated on the palate, with clear
citrus combined with something more savoury. Really edgy and fresh even with so
much density on the palate. Long and satisfying. More ripe-fruited than the French
original but a pretty good tribute from such a different location. As it warms in the
glass the concentration just builds in the mouth. Very long." 13.5% Drink 2013-19+
Notes:
45
Wine & Soul, Guru, 2008
Wine & Soul, Lda
Region: Douro
Winemaker: Jorge Serôdio Borges and Sandra Tavares
Address: Av.Júlio de Freitas, nº6, Vale de Mendiz, 5085-101
Pinhão, Portugal
Contact: Sandra Tavares
Phone +254 738 076
Website: www.wineandsoul.com
UK Importer: Corney & Barrow
Address: 1 Thomas More Street, London, E1W 1YZ
"Viosinho, Rabigato, Côdega de Larinho and Gouveio. Rich, almost exotic aroma: so
complex - there's minerality, creamy citrus, pear, and so much more that cannot be
teased apart. Oak is evident but so intertwined with all the other aromas that it
doesn't stand out or dominate. On the palate, creamy texture, cedary citrus flavour
and wonderful freshness even though it is mouthfilling and full-bodied. This is a
great example of oaked Douro white. As it opens out, there's that inviting quince
aroma that reminds me a bit of the best Loire Chenin Blanc. Finishes cool and long
with a blend of fruity and savoury." Drink 2011-15
Notes:
46
Van Zellers, VZ, 2010
Lemos & van Zeller, Lda.
Region: Douro
Production: 4,000
Winemaker: Cristiano van Zeller, Sandra Tavares da Silva and
Joana Pinhão
Address: Rua de Gondarém, 1427, 2º Dto., Ala Norte,
4150 - 380 Porto, Portugal
Contact: Cristiano van Zeller
Phone +223 744 320
Website: www.vanzellersandco.com
UK Importer: Atlântico UK
Address: Unit 10 - Commerce Park , Commerce Way, Croydon,
Surrey, CR0 4YL
"Shame about the heavy bottle. Field blend of Viosinho, Rabigato, Côdega de Larinho
and Gouveio. Two parcels of 20–50-year-old vines from the Murça district of northeastern Douro. Fermented and aged 9 months in new French oak. Savoury, mealy
aroma from the oak. Pretty oaky on the palate though there's some pine and citrus
freshness underneath. Very fresh actually. Rich and mealy on the palate with a hint
of orange. Clean and very fresh on the finish. Needs time." 13.4% Drink 2012-18
Notes:
47
Herdade do Mouchão, Mouchão Licoroso
Alicante Bouschet, 2006
Herdade de Mouchão
Region: Alentejo
Production: 6,000
RRP: £20
Address: 7470-153 Casa Branca, Portugal
Contact: John Fordyce
Phone +268 539 228
Website: www.mouchaowine.pt
UK Importer: Forth Wines Ltd
Address: Crawford Place, Milnathort, Kinross-shire, KY13 9XF
"Foot trodden. Aged in Portuguese oak vats for 4 years. Unfiltered. Sweet ripe and
very pure. Intense blackberry and blueberry purity. Super smooth and velvety.
Tastes so pure it is a little like crushed alcoholic blackberries on the palate. Dark,
roasted savoury edge, like roasted potato skins. Delicious dark fruit, unbelievable
length." 21.5% Drink 2011-29
Notes:
48
Casa Agrícola Horácio Simões, Excellent
Moscatel Roxo , NV
Casa Agricola Horacio Simões
Region: Moscatel de Setúbal
Production: 2,818
Winemaker: Luis Simões
Address: R João de Deus nº 10 2950-731 Quinta do Anjo
Contact: Pedro Camacho Simões
Phone +938 442 319
Website: www.horaciosimoes.com
"7 months on skins after addition of grape spirit. Aged in French oak. No date on the
label but it seems to have been bottled in 1997. RS 207.6 g/l. Deep burnt ochre colour.
Nutty burnt marmalade and caramel. Really nutty but also intensely fresh on the
palate - so crisp that the sweetness is held in check. Very very long. Less finesse than
the Alambre but more compexity." 18% Drink 2005-2025
Notes:
49
Jose Maria da Fonseca, Alambre
20 Year Old Moscatel, NV
José Maria da Fonseca Vinhos, S.A.
Production: 10,000 bottles of 500ml
Winemaker: Domingos Soares Franco
RRP: £25
Address: Quinta da Bassaqueira, Vila Nogueira de Azeitão,
2925-511 Azeitão, Portugal
Contact: Miguel Azevedo Remédio
Phone +212 197 500
Website: www.jmf.pt
UK Importer: Moreno Wines Ltd.
Address: 26 Macroom Road, London, W9 3HY
"Bottled 2011. A blend of 19 vintages, the youngest 20 years old and the oldest nearly
80 years old. Deep orange-tawny the colour of bitter marmalade. Intense nose of
smoky burnt caramel, walnuts, bitter oranges and dried figs and apricots. Wonderful
walnut flavour and still has the taste of apricots. Intense, rich, tangy and with lovely
mouthwatering freshness even with all that sweetness. And so long. RS 182 g/l."
18% Drink now or keep for many years to come.
Notes:
50
Adriano Tiago, Tiagos Moscatel
Superior, 1993
Tiagos - Adriano Manuel Pereira Tiago
Production: 5,400
Winemaker: Joaquim Costa
RRP: £200 Euros
Address: Quinta S. Tiago, 2950-209 Palmela
Contact: Carla Tiago
Phone +919 588 068
"Slightly cloudy walnut colour. Golden rather than greenish. Bitter caramel,
caramelised oranges and dried apricots reduced down to their essence. But also has
that nutty savoury character of madeira. Soft, thick, spiced but still has intense driedapricot flavour and lovely orange freshness to the long long end. Great purity." 18.5%
Drink 2010-35
Notes:
PORTUGUESE GRAPES · A TREASURE TROVE
Portugal’s native grape varieties are a real national treasure. Exciting, distinctive.
Prized and savoured by generations of Portuguese wine-lovers. Ripe for discovery as fresh
new flavours by wine drinkers elsewhere in the world. Here are just a few of the finest…
WHITE GRAPES
ALVARINHO
ARINTO
Alvarinho makes characterful, rich, mineral white
wines with fruity notes of peaches and citrus, and
sometimes tropical fruits and flowers. This
high-quality white grape has long been prized in the
north west of Portugal, and is much planted in the
northern part of the Vinho Verde region, between the
River Lima and the River Minho, which forms the
border with Spain. (You may have met the Spanish
version, Albariño.) Its famous heartland is the Vinho
Verde sub-region of Monção and Melgaço. Alvarinho
wines are fuller in body and higher in alcohol than
most Vinho Verde, and are often bottled as a single
variety, and named on the label. These wines are
delicious young but can age well. Growers elsewhere in
Portugal have recognised Alvarinho’s quality, and the
variety is slowly spreading south.
Arinto | Pedernã makes elegant, lemony, appley,
mineral whites that are delicious young and fresh
but can gain complexity with age. Arinto is the main
grape of the famous wines of Bucelas, fine, elegant
whites from just north of Lisbon. It’s a late-ripening
grape with the great advantage that it keeps its
marked acidity even in hot conditions. No wonder
that it grows across much of the country. It often
adds freshness and elegance to blends of other
white varieties. It also succeeds in the cool Vinho
Verde region, where it is known as Pedernã. Its crisp
acidity is also an advantage for sparkling wines.
RED GRAPES
BAGA
CASTELÃO
Baga This late-ripening grape often makes lean,
tannic reds that can be astringent in youth, but
mature to complexity with age. In hotter years, or by
skilful ripening and winemaking, Baga can give rich,
dense reds, with cherry and damson fruit, ageing to
softer, complex flavours of herbs, malt, cedar and
dried fruit.Its heartland is Bairrada but it also grows
elsewhere in the Beiras, including Dão. It is also used
as a base for sparkling wine.
Castelão The most planted black grape of the
southern part of Portugal can make firm, fine,
raspberry-fruity wines that evolve to a cedary,
cigar-box character. It is at its best in the Palmela
region on the Setúbal Peninsula south of Lisbon.
TRINCADEIRA
TINTA RORIZ
Trincadeira \Tinta Amarela can make reds with
wonderfully bright raspberry fruit, spicy, peppery,
herbal flavours, and very good acidity. This red grape
grows all over Portugal, especially in dry, warm
areas, but is probably at its best in the Alentejo. In the
Douro it’s known as Tinta Amarela.
Tinta Roriz | Aragonez makes fine, elegant red wines
with aromas of red fruits, plums and blackberries,
firm tannins and good ageing potential – you may
have met it across the border as Tempranillo. Called
Tinta Roriz in the north of Portugal, this is one of the
top grapes for Port and Douro table wines, also
important in the Dão region. In the Alentejo it is
called Aragonez. It is generally used in blends with
other varieties.
ENCRUZADO
FERNÃO PIRES
Encruzado makes elegant, well-balanced, full-bodied
whites with delicate floral and citrus aromas and
sometimes an intensely mineral character. Delicious
in a pure, unoaked style, Encruzado also responds
well to oak-fermentation or oak-ageing, turning out
some serious, fine, well-structured wines that can
mature and gain complexity over many years. You are
most likely to find it in the Dão region, up in the north,
either as a single variety or in blends – these are some
of Portugal’s most exciting white wines. In the
vineyard, even in hot conditions, Encruzado grapes
keep their fresh acidity and ripen to perfection
without becoming over-sweet.
Fernão Pires |Maria Gomes makes light, fruity,
fragrant whites reminiscent of Muscat in flavour –
floral and citrus. It tastes freshest when picked early
for drinking young and fresh. It is also used in
sparkling wines, and can occasionally be harvested
later to make sweet wines. Portugal’s most
cultivated white grape, it is grown more or less
everywhere but especially down the western coast
including the Setúbal Península, Tejo, Lisboa and
Bairrada, sometimes under the alias Maria Gomes.
TOURIGA FRANCA
TOURIGA NACIONAL
Touriga Franca makes densely-coloured, firm but
rich, aromatic wines with floral overtones and
blackberry fruit. It is one of the five officially
recommended grapes for Port, and is also used in red
Douro blends – indeed it is the most widely planted
grape in the Douro Valley. It is generally used in
blends.
Touriga Nacional makes firm, richly-coloured wines
(and Port) with complex aromas and flavours
reminiscent of violets, liquorice, ripe blackcurrants
and raspberries, along with a subtle, herby hint of
bergamot. It’s a northern grape by origin, Dão and
Douro both claiming it as their own, but now it is
grown all over Portugal. It can age well.
250
GRAPE
VARIETIES
a world of difference
London
Friday 15th June
Weston Roof Pavilion,
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Edinburgh
Wednesday 20th June
The Point Hotel,
Bread Street
Manchester
Thursday 21st June
Deansgate

21 - Wines of Portugal

Transcription

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