Alma Trends

14 tannersnews
number
01/2007
Serpelsa
Furs
Spanish
Sophistication
Alma
CURTIDORES
ESPAÑOLES
SPANISH
TANNERS
C. Valencia 359, 3 o - 08009 Barcelona
Tel. +34 93 459 33 96 - Fax +34 93 458 50 61
[email protected]
Aguilar
&
Discreet
Passionate Elegance
Leather
Trends
The spirit of
next season
www.fashionfromspain.com
With Compliments from
CURTIDORES
ESPAÑOLES
SPANISH
TANNERS
CURTIDORES ESPAÑOLES / SPANISH TANNERS
Divine
Leather
The autumn winter 07|08 range develops to nurture from natures’ serenity.
Shiny or ultra-matt, metallic, not completely plain or fully concentrated colours
grow leisurely with a peaceful and enveloping graciousness.
To set and/or follow the latest tendencies is something that you become mastering
with time. Fortunately for us, mother earth has provided us with great raw
material, and together with the experience and knowledge of some of Spain’s
most prestigious designers we believe we have began a long-lasting relationship
between two growing industries.
It is not easy to anticipate trends, but for once we can thank the influence
that globalization has upon society as a whole. The Spanish Tanning industry
is always searching to identify emerging trends, normally driven by a range
of influences, such as media, news, arts, innovation. Without this, the business
CURTIDORES
ESPAÑOLES
SPANISH
TANNERS
would be unable to develop new products and find inspiration to create new
articles that, with the aid of prestigious, and why not, the non-mainstream
names and brands promote through their design and innovation.
As the designers increasingly incorporate leather garments, accessories and
complements into their collection, they admit that leather speaks their language
through attributes that are unique and that no other textile can match. Molding
Contact us and enjoy personalised and
last-minute information:
ACEXPIEL - SPANISH TANNERS
C. Valencia 359, 3 o - 08009 Barcelona
Tel. +34 93 459 33 96 - Fax +34 93 458 50 61
[email protected]
to your body, it retains its beauty and character whilst ageing gracefully.
It can be as strong and protective as you wish or delicate and light as silk or
lace. And these are not just words. Proof is the first Spanish Tanners collection,
garments and complements designed by six prestigious Spanish designers.
Then we discover that leather is also divine.
Serpelsa is a tanning company with a long tradition in the sector. How would you describe
the firm?
Founded over 25 years ago, Serpelsa Furs today produces exclusively rabbit skins and plates for garments, shoes
trimmings, fine leather goods, gloves and these last years we have also adapted our product for home decoration.
Although at the beginning Serpelsa Furs made only tanning, it quickly began the process of skin dyeings,
continuously including new production processes. Today Serpelsa produces very sophisticated articles which
are exported to more than 40 countries all over the world.
What do you believe are the main differences between Serpelsa and other companies?
On the one hand, in Serpelsa furs’ team we find professional technicians who allow the company to be in continuous
development and innovation. On the other hand, Serpelsa Furs has spared no efforts to have the best and most
modern installations. Some of these have even been created by our company’s team.
The company accomplishes strictly current environmental and chemical products use rules. It achieved the
ISO 9001 certificate in 2004. With regard to Serpelsa’s product, and in general Spanish rabbit skins, they
are very light, and this feature allows the designers & manufacturers to create wearable garments as well
as a wide range of articles so that designers can reveal their ideas.
Serpelsa
Spanish
sophistication
Interview with
Mrs Esther Treschel
Do you believe that the final consumer is aware of the quality and the strict environmental
controls with regard to tanning industry, and in your case, rabbit skins and plates?
Although rabbit skin is considered a fur skin, rabbits are not endangered species and their skins are not
protected skins. Their appearance is more casual and less classical than other kinds of fur skins. Of course,
new articles and finishes are created every year offering new lines.
Do you believe that further actions are required to create more awareness of rabbit skins,
especially with regard to the fashion designers?
It has been a hard work, but nowadays rabbit skin articles are being accepted by most garment makers
and designers (especially foreign professionals), both within the textile and leather fields. Lately, there has
been an invasion of Chinese garments which main attraction is their low price. But due to many reasons,
demand for Spanish rabbit skin plates is returning to stability.
Unlike other Spanish tanneries, Serpelsa is often present at fairs such as Mifur, as well as
the traditional leather events. Is this presence due to the philosophy of your company?
Without a doubt, these events allow us to be in close and direct contact with most of our customers. Serpelsa
Furs takes part in several international leather fairs in France, Italy and China.
Could you describe the latest Autumn-Winter 07/08 trends?
Of course! Trends are created every year. As for reversible articles, what is seeked now is a completely soft
and natural nappa effect with aniline. Regarding hair items, the animal look is still popular, but some other
soberer effects are also in demand; for example, the brisa finish is still highly appreciated and ordered.
Serpelsa Furs’ latest creation is an astrakhan design on hair, similar to Swakara. This design is created
exclusively by this company. It is an interesting item and it is currently been accepted very well.
T
RENDS
Opposing proposals,
trends and styles
gain living motion
this season.
Entrefino kid lamb leather,
but for more affortable
versions we can either
go for Spanish suede,
nappa, nobuck and even goat
ef
Collar in rabbit skin, pr
han
erable imitating astrak
In the Skin of Fashion
The distinguishing features for the autumn-winter 07 08 season will be: serenity; elegant;
daring. Original, sober & simple. Glamour, theatrical, ethnical. Colours again are cold and
dazzling, with profound and deep tones, such as anthracite grey, charcoal black that emphasise
volumes and shapes while beautifully contrasting with satin, velvet, gauze, organza, etc. All
shades of brown are still running strong, this time playing the role of livening up classics in an
urban mood.
Classical sophistication or dazzlingly daring, the Spanish prêt-a-porter Spanish designers presented
during the last edition of Cibeles Fashion Week collections where tanned leathers received a
well-deserved homage by these masters of design: Soft gloss leathers – suede, nappa, nubuck,
box calf appear in all of their modalities, from scratched effects, makeshift-looking paints, to
the most complex of finishes.
Double-stitc
Prefer silk or h lining.
the possibilit for colder regions,
should be loo y of shearling
If this the ca ked at.
to enlargen g se, then have
and strength arment by 1 inch
and armpits en collar,
e
can either b
Sleeve cuff or Spanish Merino.
double-face rent colours.
Choose diffe oat for all seasons
to make a c
Alma
AGUILAR
&
Discreet
Passionate
Elegance
The Spanish Prêt-a-Porter designer ALMA AGUILAR
What epoch do you believe has influenced you
is totally aware that her collections seduce. Closer
most?
to haute couture than ready to wear, Alma has a very
There is not a concrete epoch, from the XVIIIth Century
personal view of fashion – we could perfectly say
up until the ‘50s, any epoch is good to learn from.
that her collections have a sweet, nostalgic and
Which is your fetish garment?
romantic touch - leaving nobody indifferent. With the
Dresses and coats, I cannot select just one…
help of a team of 10 professionals, Alma is growing
at a tremendous rhythm in the national and international
scene. But that is not surprising when you see the
creativity and passion put into each one of the creations
she designs.
Why the world of fashion?
In your last collection leather & fur has gained
quite a lot of protagonism. Is it very different
to work with compared to textiles?
I try to ensure that there are no differences so that I
can design freely and experiment with the leather. This
way I achieve very interesting results.
I know that it began with my passion for drawing, and
What do you search for in leather and how
afterwards related to fashion, and little by little fashion
would you describe its role within your
began to interest me more than drawing…. And then I
collections?
found my real vocation.
Undoubtedly they enrich the collections, and I – I am
How would you describe your style?
Probably romantic, feminine, very detailed and with
such a lover of textures – believe that leather as a
texture is incomparable.
reminiscences of the handcrafted garments, with certain
You have recently added a series of accessories
air of ancient couture designs.
to your collection. How did this come by?
Which International designers do you like?
I am not too sure whether they have influenced me, but
The idea always existed, only that we never found the
perfect moment, and finally it arrived, and what is
there is no doubt that I admire them; Karl Lagerfeald,
better than to design complements that “complement”
Cristina Ortiz, Nicolas Ghesquière
your own collection?!
Like most artists, your style has evolved over
In your latest Autumn.Winter 2007.8 Collection
the years. Could you describe this transition?
you presented a tremendously attractive
Right from the beginning, I have always worked between
handbag, and the production will be limited.
the prêt-a-porter and couture, and hence been growing
Yes, we have created a concept of "couture handbag"
constantly, creating a luxury prêt-a-porter. I soon found
that is manufactured individually when the client orders
my road in the fashion world and have since then been
it, it also has a series number and hand-signed. They
evolving through my work.
are handcrafted in Spain.
*
Modical
Footwear Trends
Autumn-Winter
2008
Innocence and Humour
Textures and materials
A relaxed look with references to a children’s world. A line of amusing
and imaginative ballet-type shoes.
Classic feminine footwear is recycled and transformed, creating a series
of cheerful and dynamic designs.
Dramatic textures inspired by animal strength: bull, colt, crocodile,
snakeskin. Engravings of coconut and fantastical beasts. Prints
featuring tattoos and rebellious messages. Scratched effects. Cropped
hair. Box-calf, suede. These types of leather are combined with
satin, velvet, gauze, organza, gabardine and intricately-worked
lace. Braiding. Pleating. Rubber treated as a textile.
The Mad Twenties
Adornments
The 1920´s is a reference-point for this line of baby-style shoes that
recall all the innocence and mischief of Betty Boo.
Chains, pearls and black diamonds. Crosses and insignias. Owls, crows,
beetles, dragons and mutating spiders. Cabochons, diamonds and
flowers in dark and blackish shades. Topaz. Ribbons with feathers,
frayed edges and tassels. Metal tacks.
Twisted buckles and clasps. All kinds of rivets
and studs. Gold, black and greenish
shades predominate for the finishes.
Fun and Elegance
Jazz-Clowns
The vision of a jazz band made up of clowns leads us to this collection
of classic models that have been reworked through colour and volume.
Tragedy
A tragic sense of life. Aggressive, romantic and modernist nostalgia.
Movements that are full of passion and even tragic, emanating from
the depths of the soul.
Colours
An impressive range of blacks and greys predominate
in this trend, complemented by dark pink make-up
shades, rusted green-yellow, violet, bone white
and bottle green.
& Passion
Accessorising
Space
Quality hides and great doses of creativity, gloss varnish, patent or scratched surfaces. Vanity, sporty, confidence…Refined
colour combinations - ochre to electric orange, red, green, natural black and charcoal grey accompany the evolution of
accessories debute on the international scene, leaving aside the formal “look” to encounter the chameleonic instinct of
accessories..
Belts, handbags and gloves disclose their growing importance to become much more than accessories. They are a “must”
in every woman’s wardrobe. Bags not only hold stories of the woman who carries it, but also reveals information about
the woman who proudly displays it.
The Spanish are the people who most spend in footwear. We
like to wear shoes and treat loudly, with confidence. With this
observation in mind it is not of surprising that Inescop organised
the itinerant exhibition "Reinventing Footwear"
Reinventing
Footwear
a very
Spanish
temptation
Outstanding Spanish designers and the best footwear brands of our
country unite their respective professional disciplines to create real master
pieces. The initiative puts in contact two different worlds: the know-how
and the extensive experience of our footwear industry with the imagination
and designers' creativity. The result is a unique experience where you
can discover how a dream, an idea, converts into a reality, a tangible
product with a high degree of art & technology.
FICE
The glamour obtained by means of the synergies created between the
designers and the top Spanish footwear companies astonished the most
passionate followers of this indispensable complement during the
inauguration of the event which took place during the celebration of Sipiel
Trade Show (Madrid), in March.
Tanners News did not want to lose this singular spectacle and visited the
itinerant exhibition once it arrived at Barcelona. We are before a unique
and outstanding performance. Fifteen collections each one made up of
six models of shoes transported us to imaginary, ingenious and original
worlds, from here the name of the event: “Reinventing Footwear”..
FICE
FICE
Classic, urban, festive, risky & daring proposals … the incitement that
encloses the fantasy of contacting the prestige of a brand with the
imagination and vision of graphical designers remained clear in remarkable
designs. Elegant & classical pieces designed by Víctor Caparrós for Martinelli,
up to the singular freshness and originality of Javier Mariscal was translated
to avant-gardes rubber-soled espadrilles of Ras
En la iniciativa han participado diseñadores españoles de diversas disciplinas
como Javier Mariscal, Chus Burés, Victor Caparrós, Candela Cort, Helena
Rohner, Arturo Elena y Paula Sanz, Alberto Corazón, Jacobo Pérez-Enciso,
.. y marcas de prestigio tales como Magrit, Paco Herrero, Fluxá, Hispanitas,
Pikolinos, Wonders, Rebeca Sanver, Joe Sánchez, Martinelli, Paco Gil,
Pedro Miralles, Ras, Corazón Azul, Romus y Unisa, todos ellos dando fe
la creatividad española.
This creative initiative has been posible thanks to the collaboration of
Spanish designers – of different disciplines, such as Javier Mariscal, Chus
Burés, Victor Caparrós, Candela Cort, Helena Rohner, Arturo Elena and
Paula Sanz, Alberto Corazón, Jacobo Perez-Enciso.. and prestigious brands
such as Magrit, Paco Herrero, Fluxá, Hispanitas, Pikolinos, Wonders,
Rescholarship Sanver, Joe Sanchez, Martinelli, Paco Gil, Pedro Miralles,
Ras, Corazón Azul, Romus and Unisa, all of them giving faith to Spanish
creativity.
Recognisable distinction
News
in
brief
Fur & Leather Fashion from Spain promote their brand and their fashion
wear at the latest edition of Naffem, celebrated this April in Canada.
Organized by Acexpiel (Spanish Tanners), four fashion manufacturing
companies will create a “Latin Corner”, presenting trends that define fashion
as an expression of freedom & personality. Likewise, Fur & Leather Fashion
from Spain will also reveal the best of their collections at the Exhibitor’s
Fashion Show.
Accensi y Compañía, SA; Artpil-Ginesta Furs; Makari & Pell Xavier presented
a range of collections that have achieved an international, feminine & sensual
concept of fashion, without forgetting ingredients such as current; urban;
chic; luxurious and pure.
Manufactured with mastery; executed with style, and solely using the finest
leathers and furs, the Association of companies exemplifies leading design
talent and producer skills.
Online sales
As indicated by the Diagnostic Report for the Footwear Sector carried out by
the Observatory of the Telecommunications and Network, only 12.2 per cent
of Spanish footwear companies sell their goods online.
Fur & Leather Fashion from Spain present their latest prêta-porter collection at Mifur trade show
In the wake of last season’s deepening love affair with all things leather &
fur, Five top-notch companies – ACSA ASSENCI; ARTPIL; GOES; MAKARI, and
PELL XAVIER, together with the Spanish tanning company SERPELSA –uncovered
this year’s collection to reveal new and exciting expressions of leather and
fur.
High-quality footwear exports
The footwear export figures for last year reveal a new increase in terms of
both volume and value, accompanied by an ongoing increase in the demand
for high-quality items. With regard to Spanish sales abroad, leather footwear
accounted for 54.7% of exports in terms of pairs, a figure that increases to
75.2% in terms of value, a rise of almost three percentage points compared
to the previous year. The average price of these items came to 25 euros/pair,
based on a year-on-year increase of nearly 4%. Asian countries such as
Taiwan, South Korea, Hong Kong, Singapore, China and Japan, as well as
South Africa, Russia and the United States, were the markets where Spain
sold footwear with the highest average price.
Russia: a new store window for “Made in Spain” fashion
The Russian Fashion Week has once again been the point of encounter for
the international fashion industry, as well as becoming a new, and important
market for fashion with Spanish surnames. These last few years, and through
this important trade show, Russia is becoming an important destination for
“Made in Spain” fashion.
CURTIDORES
ESPAÑOLES
SPANISH
TANNERS