Collection

number
18
01/2009
BEAUTY &
No Beast
INTERVIEW
Icaro Ibañez-Arricivita
CURTIDOS
CODINA
A QUESTION OF PREMIUM
QUALITY & SERVICE
Collection
AUTUMN-WINTER ‘09/10
A FUSSION OF OPTIMISM
We have recently celebrated, with certain amount of pessimism, the entry
of 2009. But we must also say that we have brought in the Chinese New
Year: the year of the Ox. For many, the ox is an animal with strength,
with character, and a born leader who is wishing to listen. And although
not supersticious by nature, the tanning industry would wish to see certain
signs of recovery, specially if you take into consideration that the ox is
a beast that bears great hides which we can later transform into a true
asset.
Familiar to crisis situations, our industry is tightly linked to the fashion
sector and thus we have to fight three times as hard to keep our heads
above water. Fortunately we can appreciate an important increase of
leather fashion on the international catwalks. Nappas, suedes, napalans
& double face are, in some instances, blended with furs to create luxury
statements presented by top models. Later on we will find similar line
garments in the high street stores at accessible prices. That is good news
for the leather industry as a whole, but, at the end of the day there is still
a challenge – the buyers no longer rely on mid-term forecasts. They will
order shortly before the new season and the tanneries have to respond
with speed and quality.
It is rather difficult to be positive when surrounded by global pessimism.
There is no doubt that there is still a long way to go until we can really
enjoy strong signs of recovery. But this does not mean that we are not
faced with challenges that are just as important and need tending to.
One of them is that of consumer awareness. It is about time they are
aware of what they purchase. A Spanish leather, or even an European
leather is not the same as that tanned in emerging countries. The consumer
understands about prices, but is not familiar with the reasoning behind
the price of a tanned skin from this part of the world to that which comes
from Asia Pacific. The Spanish Tanners, like other European tanners
comply with strict environmental regulations, without forgetting the
individual investments in R&D. This is easily translated into quality, and
price, but lets not forget that we are defending, protecting our planet,
creating, or at least guaranteeing, a better future for the next generations.
Cover photo:
Creation José Castro, furs by Serpelsa Furs
Fortunately for all of us working in and for the leather industry, there is
a growing tendency towards environmental friendly products, and we are
there, working to offer quality leathers that maintain their natural attributes,
defending the rights of the animals for a suffering-free sacrifice as well
as protecting and investing in environmental issues. The start of something
good? We have been working for years to offer a product in optimum
conditions. The consumer has to request quality, request respect, request
ethical policies.... And then we will definitely be onto something good.
Let's hope the Year of the Ox complies with what the Chinese say about
the ox. We still have a long wait, but, could be this the beginning of
something good?
ICARO is a young and promising Spanish
Flanders Fashion Institute sophomore student.
Majored in Textile & Fashion Design, today we
find him in Antwerp, a city that pulses with
vibrant energy while producing some of today’s
most innovative & creative designers. Quietspoken & confident, this man will soon be
presenting his edge cutting collection that
illustrates the breadth & depth of design talent
at Wagnatie. Stages in Berlín, Paris & Palma
de Mallorca are proof that Icaro is working
towards a promising future by seizing the
moment and making it his.
The universe of fashion is a world that catches the imagination of many people.
How did it captivate you?
I believe that it is the high creative component that has always attracted me to the complex world
of design.
Right now you are working on your latest collection which will be present next June
at Wagnatie 2009.
That’s right. I am worling on a collection which illustrates my perception of the Contemporary
man and his iconography.
You are the only Spanish student in one of the most prestigious institutes of the
world - the Flanders Fashion Institute. It is not easy to be one of the chosen ones
for this select institution. What had you to do to be selected?
I overcame the entrance test, which lasts two days and consisted of artistic exercises, a personal
interview with the teachers and a close & thorough examination of my portfolio.
With what materials do you want to blend or merge leather? What effects are you
seeking?
For this collection I am combining leathers with knittwear, felted wool, Japanese fabrics and
various technical materials. I am mixing traditional elements that will result in something totally
new, creating raw edge.
Who is the designer who most influences your creative process?
I feel a direct influence from the Belgian designers, hallmarked by their individuality, their flair
to create trends, and not following them. And I feel closely identified to their concepts and their
sensitivity.
Your collection will be visually aided by giant rabbits, made in Spanish rabbit fur.
What do they symbolize?
You make me laugh!!! More than a silhouette, these giant rabbits are more of a concept based
around the collection and I believe that it is a good way to emphasise the fact that my collection
speaks about breaking the basic contexts of textures.
If you had to describe yourself in just a few words, with sincerity, what are you
like?
I have never been very good answering these questions. I think it is better to ask my colleagues
about me, as they will be more objective!
What do you understand by the concept “creative freedom”
Personally I would translate it as the trust deposited upon your habilities and intelligence to create
the right product.
From Antwerp to the big wide world!! In two years time, when you finish your
studies, where would you like to settle down in order to launch your career?
I am still not too sure. Paris, Milan, and why not, Antwerp.
Fur & leathers are increasing their presence at the international catwalks. Do you
believe that this presence helps to integrate leather as yet another material in your
collection?
Yes, without a doubt it does help. Leather is an original element of apparel that, together with
its properties, transform it into a highly inspiring element.
What do you like most, and what stresses you of this profession, which in your
case, is totally vocational.
I like to enjoy, and feed my aesthetic perception, and I suppose that, like all of us, the most stressful
is the lack of time for so much work!!!
The Spanish Tanners have created a new collection for
Autumn - Winter 2009. The deep grey clouds that float
above the financial capitals does influence the colour scheme
for the following season, but only to blend into a vibrant
palette of sophisticated colours and optimistic tones. We
discover three categories.
And what must we say of the leather finishings?
The dark & sober charcoal greys and midnight blues, the
blackest of blacks & the vibrant metallic blacks make room
for a collection of electric & citric tones, such as orange,
yellow, blues and shinny off-whites.
The softest nappas, nubucks & suedes and anilines in different
thicknesses are ideal for manufacturing garments and fashion
accessories that we can wear or use throughout the year.
Neutral colours still stand their ground. browns & ocres
appear together with pistachio green, plum red & burgundy,
and a wide array of earthy tones offer us a sensation of
caring for the beauty of nature.
The traditional & social colours move aside and we discover
the spectacular game of the “Northern Lights colour scheme”,
a kaleidescope of sheer breathtaking and spectacular fussion
of colours. Paintbrush strokes of fucsias violets & blues, or
yellow, orange, purple and red, or an incredible selection of
“Picasso” pastel blues & faux pinks.
Glaze finishings that captivate the imagination of garment and
footwear designers alike. Fantasy finishings that make us believe
that our dreams can very well come true and are superb reminders
of the endless possibilities that leather offers us.
Patent leather & Glacé kid are just fabulous leathers, and when it
comes to printed leathers, their variety is so extense that you have
to see to believe. Embossed, perforated,... are two more attractive
options to bear in mind when buying the raw material for the
collection.
Rabbit skin, shaved or long hair is another star this season. The
“new look” given to rabbit fur is making it a star in its own right.
An interview with CINTO CODINA
When was Curtidos Codina established? How did it begin?
It was established in 1941 by my grandfather, Mr Juan Codina
Deordal. It initially dealt with semi-finished leathers as well
as wool, which was then a highly appreciated product.
Gradually it moved towards the manufacturing of finished
articles for footwear lining and afterwards footwear uppers,
made always with small skins (lamb & goat). Today we
continue manufacturing premium leathers for the footwear
and small leather goods industries.
The company has gone a long way since 1941. What do
you believe are the most important landmarks of this last
decade?
The most important strategic decisión taken these last ten
years is that of establishing a manufacturing plant in Nigeria
to seek and control the supply of raw material.
If I asked you for the three main attributes that differentiate
Curtidos Codina from other competing companies, which
would these be?
At present, Codina’s strongest points are:
1.A special know how which helps us create a top quality design
product.
2.A good positioning in the mid-high /high segment in the European
market.
3.The control and our knowledge of the raw material.
Your company has a true international vocation. Which are your
main markets and which markets would you like to be present in?
From our factory in Vic, the market is, and must carry on being so,
the European one, which seeks a product with high added value.
Also, the strength of the Euro does not favour the entry into other
non-european markets.
Are there many differences between the Asian & European markets?
The main differences are basically price, design and volume. With
regard to quality, service and updating collections, both markets are
very similar.
How would you describe the relationship between Curtidos Codina
and the fashion world?
From our point of view, fashion is generated in Italy and it is here
where we work hand in hand with stylists and our most important
clients to develop articles that will respond to their needs.
As in many sectors, the footwear industry is a very demanding one.
What is the most peculiar thing they have asked you to develop?
The designers are very creative, and some of them are really good.
Leather, as you know, is a very noble and quality material but, like
everything, it has its limitations and we can not always respond to
the expectations of our clients.
Do you still work with lamb & goat skins?
Yes. Historically our company worked with small skins, and we
have continued the tradition.
Is the fashion world giving leather the protagonism it deserves?
I believe that the professionals value leather as a quality and noble
product with many possibilities.
Each season, Curtidos Codina presents a new trends catalogue.
What do you base it on, or where do you get the inspiration to
create new trends?
Each season the new collection is developed with the aid of
professionals that belong to the sector, together with the daily
feedback generated by our most important clients. We have just
one same catalogue for the footwear and the complements/accessories
sector.
What trends (finishes & colours) do you propose for the
following 09/10 autumn – winter season?
The colour tendency, due to the actual market situation, is
very classical. Black & brown, or black & white blends,
although the “fashion” colour for this season is violet.
With regard to the trend of the articles, it is varied and
indefinite. There is no clear trend, and the global situation
is creating a lot of confusion.
What are the main challenges for your company this year?
I would say that one of them is to adapt the factory to the
special needs which this year has placed upon us. The
urgency and speed of our work is another issue because
with the crisis there isn’t any clients that will adventure to
forecast his or her needs, so when they place the order you
must supply them with great speed. But above all, due to
the banks no-financing policy, we must face the problems
of morosity as well as delays in payments.
FROM SERPELSA FURS
Celebrating its 25th
anniversary, Serpelsa Furs
is probably the best rabbit
fur company in the world.
Today, specialized in the tanning
process of rabbit, lamb and bovine
skins & hides with high innovation
& exclusivity factors, these premium
leathers & furs that have all the
aptitutes to generate trends are
destined for the manufacturing of
top range products in the fashion,
footwear, small leather goods, and
home decoration sectors.
Creation José Castro, furs by Serpelsa Furs
With the sole purpose of reinforcing
their capacity to develop innovative
proposals, in the year 2008 Serpelsa
opted for a direct partnership with
Spanish designers & international
fashion companies, signing different
collaboration agreements with
them.
agreements reached with top
national designers, in
Serpelsa’s FW 09 Collection,
and within the tradicional
range of rabbit furs designed
for the fashion industry, they
unveil 60 new products in the
categories of stamping,
embossed and reversibles furs,
from a total collection of 180
articles.
The novelty for this season is
also present in a new
collection of specific rabbit
fur articles for the small leather
good sector, which surprises
for its originality and technical
sophistication and that surely
enough will open the doors
for new formulae to conceive
and treat fur in this sector.
We are all aware that family
enterprises such as Serpelsa have
to continue looking ahead without
weakening, placing their sight on
indicators of reference, bearing in
mind what happens on the main
international catwalks, in order to
update their creative offers and to
continue setting trends that the
clients will incorporate into their
collections. The hectic speed in
which collections are established
and created is quite scary, but this
feeling also motivates Serpelsa to
become more aggressive and
creative with their own creations.
Serpelsa's proposals offers
captivate clients and
consumers alike thanks to the
quality, variety and creativity
that allows to differentiate itself
from its international
competitors. And this is the
model that Serpelsa hopes will
allow them to achieve and
consolidate their positioning
in the developed markets and
an ever-growing role in those
emerging markets that will,
progressively, introduce higher
quality products into their
markets with the aid of
prestigious brands.
The true engine of their effort is,
and will be fueled with the illusion
of the creative teamwork; the
alliances that this Catalonian
company establishes with its
suppliers and clients and the
worthiness of the technology used
to continuously obtain high added
value products.
Fruit of the different collaboration
Serpelsa’s strategy to
approach brands and
companies that value the
origin and the treatment of
the raw materials which they
incorporate into their products
is the guarantee for a
continuity of the company in
the fashion world for the
following 25 years.
Romain Kremer’s exhibition “Beauty & No Beast” opens up Eastern
Europe to the Spanish Tanners
Last December a selected group of designers & artists had the
pleasure of unveiling Romain Kremer’s view of the Spanish Tanners.
Held in Modenatie’s auditoriom (Antwerp), the presentation of The
Beauty & No Beast showed a new and original perspective of
presenting our articles in the fashion industry. At the expense of
this young, but veteran designer, before us we discovered a surrealist
exhibition, where torsoes, masks and gloved hands played the role
of beauty in its different facets.
This type of event is the first of its kind for the Spanish Tanners,
whom relied on Romain Kremer’s acclaimed fashion expertise, as
well as the location of the exhibition – Modenatie – Belgium’s design
& fashion heart & soul.
With total freedom, Kremer decided to design & create the Beauty
& No Beast composition in soft black nappa, highlighting his
surrealistic approach to the skins tanned in Spain. The author of
the exhibition indicated, during the inauguration act that his initial
idea was to express his personal vision of the traditional European
story " The beautiful one and the beast ", but he never
managed to find the beast, hence the play of words for the
title of the exhibition.
With the unconditional support of Colomer y Munmany,
Curtidos Codina, Genís Antel, Inpelsa, La Doma,
Manufacturas Artísticas del Cuero and Serpelsa Furs, this
exhibion has allowed the Spanish Tanners “present, through
a high level of creativity & innovation, our products”. The
managing director of Spanish Tanners / Acexpiel also added
that “thanks to the Flanders Fashion Institute & Romain
Kremer, we have been able to communicate through a
surrealist exhibition, the closely knit link between the fashion
world and the leather industry”
SPANISH TANNERS INTERNATIONAL PROMOTION
CAMPAIGN
ACEXPIEL has recently presented their 2009 Sectorial plan,
basically based upon the group participation at international trade
fairs & events, together with a continuity to the Spanish Tanners
campaign.
Colección José Castro; pieles de Serpelsa Furs
The main aim of the promotional activities for the year 2009 is the
presentation of Spanish Tanners products abroad, offering an image
of quality and prestige that allows the member companies to increase
their market share in target markets. As clearly stated in the
document, it is vital to diversify markets, to promote specific and
customised strategies in each one of the markets, as well as to carry
on with markets studies to identify potential clients for the tanning
sector and that offer, or can offer in a short or medium period of
time a high potential consumption of Spanish Tanners’ products.
SPANISH TANNERS “IN VOGUE”
The Spanish fur & leather fashion arrived in Tokyo by the
hand of seven prestigious designers and manufacturers who
presented the latest trends for next seasons through each of
the own individual collections. Fur & Leather Fashion from
Spain, and its member companies offered a wide range of
creations that forecast new trends in the fashion industry.
Once again the creative and design teams of Vogue Pelle have
produced an excellent image catalogue for the Spring / Summer
season. Their flexibility, colouring, texture & wide array of leathers
enables the professionals to create true works of art. Although
difficult to transmit via a catalogue, through Vogue Pelle the
positioning of the Spanish Tanners in the fashion industy cannot
be better.
Accensi y Compañía – ACSA; Blue Ribbon; Dyapell;
Dod&Co; Gerome; Saga Ibáñez and Pell Xavier were the
seven companies that exhibited in the Spain Leather Fashion
Exhibition together with Mode in France. Most of the
companies are placed under the umbrella of the fur & leather
manufacturing group - FUR & LEATHER FASHION
FROM SPAIN, which was created in 2005 with the aim of
promoting internationally the products of the Spanish
associates, which have in common the exclusivity of the furs
and skins used for the creation of garments, guaranteeing
not only the quality, but the incomparable attributes of the
Spanish fashion.
INCREASE IN EXPORTS OF GOAT SKINS AND
BOVINE LEATHER
During the first three quarters of 2008, exports of tanned
goats skins saw a 10% increase in exports. From 6.459,000¤
in 2007 to just over 7.100,000 in 2008, the main market
being Europe, with purchases valued at 5,527,000¤, and
followed by Asia. Nevertheless, it is Romania who has enjoyed
the largest growth with regard to Spanish exports, increasing
over 420% in relation to the previous year. Bovine has also
enjoyed a strong increase of over 17% with respect to the
same period last year, making it an important asset to our
exports.
NEWS
in brief
SPANISH FASHION “MADE IN LEATHER”