CJCI Lecture 2012 The Napier Co.

CJCI Lecture 2012
The Napier Co.
Defining 20th Century American Costume Jewelry
Quick Reference Guide Product Time Line
Decade
Primary
Manufacturing
Methods
Basic Materials Used
Primary Jewelry Products
1920s
Die-stamped, Hand
manipulated
Sterling, Gold, Brass, Galalith,
Chain, Mesh, Faux and Genuine Stones, Glass
Buckles, Purses, Necklaces, Earrings, Bracelets, Compacts, Vanities, Dance Purses,
Shoe Clips.
1930s
Die-stamped, Hand
manipulated, Limited
Cast
Brass, Sterling, White Metal,
Galalith, Chain, Mesh, Faux and
Genuine Stones, Glass, Prystal
Necklaces, Bracelets, Earrings, Fur and Dress Clips. Most jewelry seems to
have been made in the early and late 1930s with the company’s main focus on
Barware, Tobacciana, Giftware from 1932 to 1936.
1940s
Die-stamped, Limited
Cast
Sterling, Limited Brass and
Rhinestones (Mid to Late ‘40s)
Sterling or Vermeil Necklaces, Bracelets, Earrings, Fur or Dress Clips.
Tailored and Rhinestone Necklaces, Bracelets, Earrings from mid to late 1940s.
The company did not resume normal base metal production for two years
postwar.
1950s
Die-stamped, Hand
Manipulated or
Strung, Cast
Brass, Sterling, White Metal,
Faux Pearls, Faux and Genuine
Stones, Glass, Hard Resins
Necklaces, Bracelets, Brooches, Earrings, Fur Clips, (Metals-Tailored, Pearl,
Stone-Set and Beads).
1960s
Die-stamped, Hand
Manipulated or
Strung, Cast
Brass, Sterling, White Metal,
Faux Pearls, Faux and Genuine
Stones, Glass, Hard Resins,
Transparent Enamels
Necklaces, Belts, Bracelets, Brooches, Earrings, Rings, Figurals (Metals-Tailored,
Pearl, Stone-Set and Beads).
A fair amount of jewelry still involved hand-manipulation techniques.
Most cast hand-carved figurals were from the 1960s and 1970s.
1970s
Die-stamped, Cast,
Strung
Brass, Sterling, Gold, White
Metal, Faux Pearls, Limited
Rhinestones, Hard Resins,
Transparent Enamels
Necklaces, Belts, Bracelets, Brooches, Earrings, Rings, Figurals (Metals-Tailored,
Pearl, and Beads). Note: Stone-set jewelry limited to earrings and bracelets
made from 1970 to 1972/1973.
Large cast pieces in the early 1970s and by the end of the decade small delicate chains, pendent and trapeze necklaces.
1980s
Die-stamped, Cast,
Strung
Brass, Sterling, White Metal,
Faux Pearls, Rhinestones,
Glass, Hard Resins, Transparent
Enamels
Necklaces, Bracelets, Earrings, Pins (Metals-Tailored, Pearl, Stone-Set and Beads).
Mainly small, delicate chains and die-stamped jewelry in early 1980s, graduating
to larger-sized pieces and heavy collar necklaces made in metal, with hard resin
and or rhinestone features.
1990s
Die-stamped, Cast
Brass, White Metal, Faux Pearls, Necklaces, Bracelets, Earrings, Pins (Metals-Tailored, Pearl, Stone-Set and Beads).
Rhinestones, Hard Resins,
Large rhinestone collection of crystal or jewel-tone stones, heavy metal designs
Enamels
with hard resin and or rhinestone features, large links, highly polished surfaces.
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Spring Rings and Fakes
TOP: Early hand-formed jump
ring.
Bottom: Later machine-made
jump ring. Both marked NAPIER.
FAKE: The earring on the left (which
matches the necklace to the right with the
hook and chain clasp) would have had the
clipback style of the earring to the right.
Notice different pattern on pad.
FAKE: Notice the marring of
the hook which is typically found
on pieces where a Napier hook
is attached to a non-Napier
piece.
© 2012 Melinda Lewis All Rights Reserved.
FAKE: Examples of spring
rings clasps typically used
for the making of fake
Napier bracelets. Soldered
mark visible.
May not be reproduced, reprinted in print or digital format or posted on the Internet without written permission.
The Napier Co.
First Used Date as Associated With the Trademark NAPIER
1.
May 1922: Belt buckles, key chains, bill holders, cuff links, tie holders, key cases, ornamental key tops, pocket lighters, match boxes, photo cases,
pocket combs, nail-file cases, when made wholly or in part of precious metal or plated therewith. NOTE THIS DOES NOT INCLUDE THE NAPIER TRADEMARK WHICH APPEARED INSIDE THE SEMI-RECTANGULAR PLAQUE WITH BILATERAL CUSPED ENDS.
2.
June 1931: Bowls, dishes, salad sets, serving forks and spoons, sandwich servers, cocktail shakers, drinking-mixing devices, measuring devices, bottlecap removers, corkscrews, when made wholly or in part of precious metal or plated therewith.
3.
Oct. 1933: Toys, baby cups, baby spoons, baby forks, baby knives, rattles, whistles and jewelry, when made wholly or in part of precious metal or
plated therewith.
4.
June 1933: Trays and receptacles for cigarettes, matches and ashes, small decorative lamps, picture frames, and toilet sets, when made wholly or in
part of precious metal or plated therewith.
5.
July 1934: Candlesticks, flower holders, table ornaments, book ends, desk accessories, when made wholly or in part of precious metal or plated
therewith.
6.
January 1939: Ecclesiastical wares when made wholly or in part of precious metal or plated therewith.
NAY-pee-ur
To Order Your Book Go To: www.TheNapierBook.com
© 2012 Melinda Lewis All Rights Reserved. Graphics and Photo Editing by Darrel Chua