Where to begin - Discover Northern Ireland
Transcription
Where to begin - Discover Northern Ireland
ULSTER2c 25/10/06 5:22 pm Page 1 www.discovernorthernireland.com ULSTER2c 25/10/06 5:22 pm Page 2 ULSTER2c 25/10/06 5:22 pm Page 3 ULSTER2c 25/10/06 5:22 pm Page 4 Introduction In the 1960s the renowned American novelist John Steinbeck visited the home of his ancestors near Limavady, County Londonderry. His grandfather, Samuel Hamilton, had journeyed on an emigrant ship to America, eventually settling in California. Steinbeck’s visit had a profound impact upon him – “I feel related” he said , finding the people were like his mother’s brothers “in complexion and character – talented and contentious”. He spoke for many Scots Irish, then and still today, when he said of his ancestors’ home, “that’s the seat of my culture and the origin of my being and the soil of my background.” Today it is estimated that forty million Americans are of Irish origin and of these well over half are like John Steinbeck, Scots Irish to their core. 1641 Rebellion starts resulting in death of many planters 1606 Settlement of Scots in Ards Peninsula 1603 Treaty of Mellifont - ends Nine Years War 1600 1689 Siege and relief of Derry 1665 1690 The Presbyterian William of Orange Church emerges as lands at a distinct Carrickfergus and denomination defeats James II at Battle of the Boyne 1610 Plantation of Ulster commences 1605 Early 1700s French Hugenots escaping persecution settle in Lisburn County Antrim 1610 1490 1600 1492 Columbus discovers America 1607 First permanent English settlement in America 1650 1660 1610 1685 1690 1620 17 25 pe S m 1700 1665 1620 Puritans on ‘The Mayflower’ land in New England 1608 French colonists found Quebec 1664 New Amsterdam taken from Dutch by English renamed New York ULSTER2c 25/10/06 5:22 pm Page 5 The Plantation The Scots Irish were planted in the northernmost counties of Ireland in the early part of the 17th century. The original concept of planting Ulster was undoubtedly an English idea. The early negotiations and preparations were drafted by the London Livery Companies and in 1610 lands confiscated from the native Irish were planted by settlers from lowland Scotland. Prior to this the Scots had for centuries been drifting back and forward to the eastern counties of Antrim and Down across the narrow straits (just twenty one miles at one point) which separate Northern Ireland and Scotland. The lowland Scots found their own homeland overcrowded and needed the space and the opportunity to live and worship as they pleased. The chance to settle on lands in Ulster was one to be seized with both hands - even if that meant having to work “with the sworde in one hand and the Axe in thother”. As the Scots settled on Irish shores they were in constant danger of attack from the native Irish. It was during this time that the strong, determined character of the Scots Irish was formed. ots 1717-1775 250,000 Ulster people, mainly of Scottish descent, migrate to America 0 1845 Beginning of Great Famine. By 1848, 1 million people emigrate 1798 Rebellion led by Presbyterians in Ulster who were defeated ttle nty 1750 1800 1837 Queen Victoria comes to throne 1840 1916 Easter Rising in Dublin 1920 Government of Ireland Act Northern Ireland formed Battle of Somme is fought 1845 1915 1916 1920 NorthernIreland USA 65 1770 1775 1860 1768 Cook begins exploration of Pacific m ch ork 1865 1863 Slavery abolished in USA 1776 American Declaration of Independence 1861 -1865 American Civil War ULSTER2c 25/10/06 5:23 pm Page 6 Scots Irish Americans who hope to retrace the steps of their ancestors can do so with ease in Northern Ireland. There are fantastic visitor attractions throughout the province which bring to light the history of The Plantation and evoke a sense of the Scots Irish spirit. In the City of Derry you can walk the only complete walled city in Ireland. It was here that many of the Scots Irish suffered in the renowned Siege of Derry in 1689. The Siege had much in common with that of the Alamo in Texas whose defenders were led by the Scots Irish General Davy Crockett and Sam Houston. There are colourful re-enactments of the history of The Siege during The Maiden City Festival, an annual event which takes place in Londonderry in August. St Columb’s Cathedral, the first Protestant Cathedral to be built in Ireland after the Reformation, is located on the edge of the city walls. It is home to many historical relics of The Siege, including the locks and keys of the original four city gates. The Guildhall, built by the London Companies in 1887 and now Londonderry’s civic and cultural centre, is open to the public. It houses one of the largest collections of stained glass windows of any building in Ireland which illustrate much of the city’s history. For further information about The Maiden City Festival, contact the event organisers on +44 (0) 28 7134 9250 or visit the festival website: www.maidencityfestival.com The Guildhall, Londonderry ULSTER2c 25/10/06 5:23 pm Page 7 Springhill House At Springhill House in Moneymore, County Londonderry, the architecture of this Plantation dwelling seems to hold its ‘arms’ outstretched to welcome visitors. This National Trust property was once the home of the Conynghams, a Planter family, who lived there for ten generations. ‘Good’ Will Conyngham played an important part during The Siege of Derry and his blunderbuss, flintlocks and other firearms still hang in the gun room of the house. An earlier example of Plantation architecture can be found at Bellaghy Bawn. The ‘bawn’, a fortified enclosure typical of the Plantation era, was erected in 1618 by Sir Baptist Jones who also built the town of Vintnerstown (now Bellaghy). The original Bawn was burnt to the ground in the 1641 rebellion, when settlers and residents of Bellaghy village were brought inside its walls to protect them from native Irish rebels. It was rebuilt in 1643. awn ghy B Bella t a ion ollect ney C a e H s eamu The S Bellaghy Bawn has the added attraction of displaying the original working papers of the much loved, Nobel Prize winning poet, Seamus Heaney who has written so evocatively about growing up around Bellaghy. St Columb’s Cathedral The Guildhall from the city walls ULSTER2c 25/10/06 5:23 pm Enniskillen Castle Castle Archdale Country Park Belleek Pottery Page 8 More evidence of the Plantation unfolds among the rolling landscape of County Fermanagh. Enniskillen Castle was once the stronghold of the Maguires in the 16th century. It houses a number of displays including those dedicated to two regiments – the 6th Inniskilling Dragoons and the Royal Inniskilling Fusiliers. These were founded in the late 17th century to support the cause of William III, when the Castle became an English garrison fort. The Museum at Enniskillen Castle displays the uniforms and regalia of these regiments and it is also widely believed that their signature marching tune inspired ‘The Star Spangled Banner’, America’s National Anthem. At Castle Archdale the picturesque ruins of the original Plantation Castle still stand as a fine example of the architectural design of the period. The 17th century Monea Castle, built by Gustavus Hamilton, is an interesting ruin as are the remains of old Castle Crom, built in 1611 by the Scottish Planter Michael Balfour. Nearby there’s much to amuse and delight at the historic Belleek Pottery Visitors Centre. Unlike the Conynghams and the Hamiltons, most folk lived in very simple thatched cottages. Good examples may be seen at the Ulster American Folk Park in Omagh and the Ulster Folk and Transport Museum at Cultra, near Belfast. Ironically, some of the best examples of these traditional dwellings are in the Presidential homesteads. It was life in these simple cottages that ordinary people left behind in search of the promise of a new land. Ulster American Folk Park, Omagh ULSTER2c 25/10/06 5:23 pm Page 9 The great migration of the Scots Irish, which began in 1717 from the northernmost counties of Ireland, is a significant chapter of the Irish story. Like the mass emigration which followed during the Great Famine of the 19th century, America became the destination for thousands of Irish emigrants. ULSTER2c 25/10/06 5:23 pm Page 10 In the early 18th century almost 250,000 people from the north of Ireland, mostly of Scots Irish descent, left their Irish homeland in search of a new life in North America. Religious persecution and economic and social deprivation instigated this westward movement, and so began the emigration trail across the Atlantic. In May 1717 ‘The Friends Goodwill’ left Larne harbour in County Antrim for Boston with 52 passengers on board. The ship arrived four months later. In Larne a statue stands in Curran Park which conveys the nature of these original emigrants – the mother in the group carries a Bible and the young boy is carrying his shoes in the hope of ‘Red Letter Days’ ahead when he may wear them. A year later Reverend James McGregor, who fought at the Siege of Derry, led five ship loads of passengers from Londonderry, Macosquin, Aghadowey and Coleraine. They settled in New Hampshire and named their settlement New Londonderry with other settlements named Londonderry, Derry, Antrim and Hillsborough, also founded nearby. In the same summer Reverend James Woodside led over 100 Scots Irish emigrants to America. They also arrived in Boston having sailed on the good ship ‘McCallom’. On board the ship at the Ulster American Folk Park Of the 442 vessels which advertised sailings from the Northern Irish ports to America in the third quarter of the 18th century, 33% left Belfast, 25% left Londonderry, 20% left Newry, 14% left Larne and 8% left Portrush. Agents for the various ships scoured towns seeking likely recruits for the voyage. As you drive through the small market towns of Northern Ireland today it is still possible to picture the scene of these ‘super salesmen’ holding out the prospect of a land of milk and honey to people in the local market place. ULSTER2c 25/10/06 5:23 pm Page 11 4th July Celebrations, Ulster American Folk Park Charles McKenzie, Master of the ship ‘Peace and Plenty’ which sailed to Philadelphia and New York, visited Ballynahinch, Lisburn and Ballymena in search of emigrants. The masters of the ‘Newry Assistance’ and the ‘Minerva’ both bound for Philadelphia from Newry visited between them Coalisland and Cookstown in County Tyrone, Banbridge, Rathfriland and Dromore in County Down and Castledawson in County Londonderry. By the time of the first United States National census in 1790, the Scots Irish were America’s second largest ethnic population. When Washington became the first President it is estimated that those of Scots Irish ancestry living in the United States was one quarter of a million Americans. The Ulster American Folk Park near Omagh, County Tyrone is the largest museum of emigration in Europe. It has recreated a full size ship and dockside gallery similar to those that carried thousands of emigrants across the Atlantic. The Folk Park also houses an indoor exhibition entitled ‘Emigrants.’ It is sited close to the Centre for Migration Studies, a must-see location for anyone, which tells the story of over 200 years of emigration from Ulster to North America. The Ulster Folk and Transport Museum at Cultra, County Down was voted Northern Ireland Museum of the Year 2005. It holds unique material about emigration including passenger lists and houses a collection of material relating to Ulster’s maritime history. Many valuable and unique artefacts from the infamous ship, The Titanic built by Harland & Wolff in Belfast, are also on display here. When the emigrants reached America’s east coast, this odyssey continued westward, just like the Scottish Planters 100 years earlier. President Theodore Roosevelt once said that the Scots Irish were, “the kernel of the distinctively and intensely American stock who were the pioneers of our people on their march westward.” ULSTER2c 25/10/06 5:23 pm Page 12 Where to begin Both periods of emigration from Ireland in the 18th and 19th centuries have resulted in millions of people worldwide claiming at least partial Irish descent. It’s no surprise that many people are keen to trace their ancestors back to their Irish homeland and gain a deeper insight into their histories. Genealogical research can be a challenging enterprise, so it’s best to be as prepared as possible for all eventualities. Getting in touch with the right organisations can make your searches a little easier. The following listing should aid your journey through your personal history by providing you with contact details for all relevant genealogical centres and organisations in Northern Ireland. Armagh Ancestry 38A English Street Armagh BT61 7BA Tel: +44 (0)28 3752 1802 Fax: +44 (0)28 3751 0180 Email: [email protected] www.visitarmagh.com Association of Ulster Genealogists & Record Agents (AUGRA) c/o The Secretary Glen Cottage Glenmachan Road Belfast BT4 2NP Email: [email protected] www.augra.com Banbridge Genealogy Services c/o Banbridge Gateway Tourist Information Centre 200 Newry Road Banbridge BT32 3NB Tel: +44 (0)28 4062 6369 Fax: +44 (0)28 4062 3114 Email: [email protected] www.banbridgegenealogy.com Belfast Family History Centre 403 Holywood Road Belfast BT4 2GU Tel: +44 (0)28 90769839 Opening hours: Wed & Thurs, 10am-4pm, Sat: 9am-1pm ULSTER2c 25/10/06 5:23 pm Page 13 Please telephone in advance for opening times or to arrange an appointment if required. Centre for Migration Studies Ulster American Folk Park Mellon Road Castletown Omagh BT78 5QY Tel: +44 (0)28 8225 6315 Fax: +44 (0)28 8224 2241 Email: [email protected] www.qub.ac.uk/cms Derry Genealogy Centre 10 Craft Village Shipquay Street Derry BT48 6AR Tel: +44 (0) 28 7126 9792 Fax: + 44 (0) 28 7136 0921 General Register Office Oxford House 49/55 Chichester Street Belfast BT1 4HL Tel: +44 (0) 28 9025 2000 Fax: +44 (0) 28 9025 2120/2121 www.groni.gov.uk Irish Genealogy Limited www.irishgenealogy.ie Email: [email protected] Irish World Family History Services Family History Suite 51 Dungannon Road Coalisland BT71 4HP Tel: +44 (0)28 8774 6065 Email: [email protected] Web: www.irish-world.com North of Ireland Family History Society c/o Graduate School of Education Queen’s University 69 University Street Belfast BT7 1HL (NB. This is a collecting address for mail only ) www.nifhs.org Email: [email protected] Presbyterian Historical Society Church House Fisherwick Place Belfast BT1 6DW Tel:+44 (0)28 9032 2284 www.presbyterianireland.org Public Record Office of Northern Ireland (PRONI) 66 Balmoral Avenue Belfast BT9 6NY Tel: +44 (0)28 9025 5905 Fax: +44 (0)28 9025 5999 Email: [email protected] www.proni.gov.uk Society of Genealogists Northern Ireland Email: [email protected] www.sgni.net Ulster Historical Foundation Balmoral Building 12 College Square East Belfast BT1 6DD Tel: +44 (0)28 9033 2288 Fax: +44 (0)28 9023 9885 Email: [email protected] www.ancestryireland.com ULSTER2c 25/10/06 5:23 pm Page 14 6 Day Tour Guide Ulster Folk & Transport Museum The Giant’s Causeway Now that you have unearthed your ancestral roots in Northern Ireland, why not take a few days to discover the sights and sounds of the region. From ancient castles and defensive city walls, to the rural farmsteads which were the ancestral homesteads of many US Presidents, Northern Ireland is truly a place apart. ULSTER2c 25/10/06 5:23 pm Page 15 Belfast City Hall Enniskillen Castle Our 6 Day Tour begins in the Capital City of Belfast, the industrial centre which produced the Titanic and the Nomadic, two infamous ocean liners built by Harland and Wolff. Visit the many museums and galleries in the city, or why not start researching your family tree? Leaving Belfast behind, take Days 2 and 3 to follow the Causeway Coastal Route and visit dramatic castle ruins such as Dunluce and Carrickfergus. You’ll also pass the legendary Giants Causeway, a UNESCO World Heritage site, which you will certainly know about! Day 1 BELFAST Ulster Museum Botanic Gardens, Belfast Co. Antrim Tel: + 44 (0)28 9038 3000 www.ulstermuseum.org.uk Ulster Folk & Transport Museum Cultra, Holywood, Co. Down Tel: +44 (0)28 9042 8428 www.uftm.org.uk Public Record Office of Northern Ireland (PRONI) 66 Balmoral Avenue Belfast BT9 6NY Tel: +44 (0)28 9025 5905 Fax: +44 (0)28 9025 5999 Email: [email protected] www.proni.gov.uk Ulster Historical Foundation Balmoral Building 12 College Square East Belfast BT1 6DD Tel: +44 (0)28 9033 2288 Fax: +44 (0)28 9023 9885 Email: [email protected] www.ancestryireland.com Belfast City Hall Belfast, Co. Antrim www.belfastcity.gov.uk Tel: +44 (0)28 9032 0202 Day 2 CAUSEWAY COASTAL ROUTE Carrickfergus Castle Marine Highway, Carrickfergus, Co. Antrim Tel: +44 (0)28 9335 1273 www.ehsni.gov.uk Andrew Jackson Centre 2 Boneybefore, Carrickfergus, Co. Antrim Tel: +44 (0)28 9335 8049 www.carrickfergus.org Emigration Memorial Curran Park, Larne, Co. Antrim Tel: +44 (0)28 2826 0088 www.larne.gov.uk Arthur Cottage Dreen, Cullbackey, Co. Antrim Tel: +44 (0)28 2563 8494 www.ballymena.gov.uk Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge c/o 119a Whitepark Road Ballintoy Co. Antrim Tel: +44 (0)28 2073 1582 www.nationaltrust.org.uk Day 3 CAUSEWAY COASTAL ROUTE The Giant’s Causeway Causeway Road, Bushmills, Co. Antrim Tel: +44 (0)28 2073 1855 www.giantscausewaycentre.com Old Bushmills Distillery 2 Distillery Road, Bushmills, Co. Antrim Tel: +44 (0)28 2073 3224 Web: www.bushmills.com Dunluce Castle Portrush, Co. Antrim Tel: +44 (0)28 2073 1938 www.ehsni.gov.uk Bonamargy Friary Ballycastle Co. Antrim www.moyle-council.org +44 (0)28 2076 2225 Carrickfergus Castle Arthur Cottage, Cullybackey Day 4 of our Tour begins in the Walled City of Derry, besieged for 105 days in 1689. Why not walk the walls, the best preserved in Ireland, or visit the numerous cultural sites which tell the story of this historic city. Explore the west of the province on Days 5 and 6. Starting from Omagh on Day 5, visit the largest centre of emigration in Europe, the Ulster American Folk Park. Overnight in Enniskillen and spend your last day discovering the wealth of historic houses and castles in County Fermanagh. Day 4 WALLED CITY OF DERRY Walled City Walking Tour Derry Visitor & Convention Bureau 44 Foyle Street, Londonderry Tel: +44 (0)28 7126 7284 www.derryvisitor.com The Guildhall Guildhall Square, City of Derry Co. Londonderry Tel: +44 (0)28 7137 7335 www.derrycity.gov.uk St Columb’s Cathedral City of Derry Co. Londonderry Tel: +44 (0)28 7126 7284 www.derryvisitor.com Springhill House 20 Springhill Road, Moneymore, Magherafelt, Co. Londonderry Tel: +44 (0)28 8674 8210 www.nationaltrust.org.uk Bellaghy Bawn Castle Street, Bellaghy, Co. Londonderry Tel: +44 (0)28 7938 6812 www.ehsni.gov.uk President Grant Ancestral Homestead Dergenagh, Ballygawley Road Dungannon, Co. Tyrone Tel: +44 (0)28 8555 7133 www.dungannon.gov.uk Day 6 FERMANAGH LAKELANDS President Wilson Ancestral Homestead 28 Spout Road, Dergalt, Strabane, Co. Tyrone Tel: +44 (0)28 7138 2204 www.strabanedc.com Enniskillen Castle Castle Barracks, Enniskillen, Co. Fermanagh Tel: +44 (0)28 6632 5000 www.enniskillencastle.co.uk Gray’s Printing Press Main Street, Strabane, Co. Tyrone Tel: +44 (0)28 7138 2204 www.strabanedc.com Castle Archdale Castle Archdale Country Park, Irvinestown, Co. Fermanagh Tel: +44 (0)28 6862 1588 www.ehsni.gov.uk Day 5 THE SPERRINS TRAIL The Ulster American Folk Park Castletown, Omagh, Co. Tyrone Tel: +44 (0)28 8224 3292 www.folkpark.com Monea Castle Enniskillen Co. Fermanagh +44 (0)28 6632 3110 Castle Coole Enniskillen Co. Fermanagh +44 (0)28 6632 2690 www.nationaltrust.org.uk ULSTER2c 25/10/06 5:23 pm Page 16 The Scots Irish made an enormous contribution to American life with no clearer example than their involvement in American politics. 15 Presidents of the United States have Scots Irish origin - 4 of those have direct links to Northern Ireland today as their ancestral homesteads can be found throughout the province. The Declaration of Independence is of equal significance to the Scots Irish story many of the signatories on the document could claim Scots Irish descent. The impact of these people on their new country was undoubtedly momentous. ULSTER2c 25/10/06 5:23 pm Page 17 The Declaration of Independence The original draft of the first Declaration of Independence was drawn up by Charles Thomson, Secretary of the First Continental Congress. Thomson, from Upperlands, County Londonderry, emigrated to America in 1739. As a boy he entered the Academy of Doctor Francis Allison, a renowned teacher of New London Pennsylvania. Within a few years he was running his own school before moving to Philadelphia where he befriended Benjamin Franklin. He became an organiser and an agitator for the cause of American independence. On July 4th 1776 the original Declaration of Independence was signed by only two people – Charles Thomson as Secretary and John Hancock as President of the Continental Congress. Hancock and Thomson took the signed Declaration to John Dunlap, a Philadelphia printer who produced 500 typed signed copies which were distributed to the members of Congress and the King of England. The actual original signed document itself was lost in what has been described as the ‘Fever of Freedom’. John Dunlap a native of Strabane, County Tyrone is remembered as the first printer of the Declaration of Independence. Dunlap also founded the first daily newspaper in America – The Pennsylvania Packet. Dunlap learned his trade at Gray’s Printing Press in Strabane where James Wilson, the grandfather of President Woodrow Wilson also learned the printing trade. Now owned by the National Trust, Gray’s Printing Press is an icon of Strabane’s 18th century reputation as Ireland’s capital of publishing and is open to the public. On 2nd August 1776 the delegates returned to Philadelphia to sign a newly prepared Declaration of Independence and for some reason Thomson was not asked to sign. This document contained nine Scots Irish signatories amongst the 56 people who signed it. ULSTER2c 25/10/06 5:23 pm Page 18 ‘Old Hickory’ The President’s earliest ancestor, Richard Jackson, settled in Coleraine, County Londonderry in 1639. Two of Richard’s uncles – Thomas and Robert had settled at Loughgall and the Birches, County Armagh 30 years earlier with Robert being the ancestor of the great Civil War Confederate, General Thomas Jonathan “Stonewall” Jackson. A plaque to his forbearers is located at the Birches and there are many Jackson graves to be found at the nearby Tartaraghan graveyard. Andrew Jackson’s grandfather was a weaver and a merchant from Carrickfergus and the President’s father was a farmer from County Antrim. He married Elizabeth Hutchinson and had two small children in Northern Ireland. In 1765 he emigrated to America and made his way to the Waxhaw region between the North and South Carolina border. Shortly after arriving, Jackson senior died leaving his wife with two small boys to rear and pregnant with the future President. Elizabeth Hutchinson Jackson was a remarkable woman of strong character from whom Andrew also inherited his red hair and his blue eyes. Andrew was described as “having piercing blue eyes, face as long as a Lurgan Spade, high shock of red hair, and lonely resolution.“ He was known as Old Hickory because he was a strong minded man who was as “tough as old boots”. At Boneybefore, the Andrew Jackson Centre sits within view of the well preserved Carrickfergus Castle. The house is a traditional thatched farmhouse built in the 1750s and stands near the site of the original Jackson homestead. Andrew Jackson’s life as a lawyer, congressman, senator, judge, Indian fighter, Major General and President is portrayed in an exhibition inside the cottage. For more information: Boneybefore, Carrickfergus, Antrim BT38 7AB Website: www.carrickfergus.org Email: [email protected] Tel: +44 (0)28 9335 8049 ULSTER2c 25/10/06 5:23 pm Page 19 John Simpson, the President’s great grandfather, set out from the townland of Dergenagh near Dungannon in 1768 to join the mass exodus of Scots Irish to the American colonies. Years later in 1821 his granddaughter Hannah, a native of Montgomery County, Pennsylvania married Jesse Root Grant who was a tanner by trade. Their son was named Hiram Ulysses Grant. ‘Ulysses Simpson’ was an office error which occurred when Grant was a student at West-Point. The name caught on and Grant, who didn’t care for the name ‘Hiram’, didn’t object. It remained with him for his lifetime and both Grant’s son and grandson were named Ulysses Simpson Grant. Before the Civil War, Grant had enjoyed a mixed reputation as a soldier although he was commended for his distinguished gallantry during the Mexican War by no less a personage than Major (later to become Confederate General) Robert Edward Lee. Lee could little guess that this junior officer would become the Commanding General of the Union Army, and that it would be to him that Lee would surrender at the end of the Civil War on April 9th 1865 at Appomattox Courthouse, Virginia. Shortly after his second Presidential term in January 1879, Grant visited Londonderry, Coleraine, Ballymena and Belfast. He felt strongly about his Northern Irish roots and expressed his sense of being ‘at home’. Today President Grant’s Ancestral Homestead at Dergenagh is open to the public and preserved in its original style. It houses an exhibition about the victorious Civil War General who was also a two term President. The Interpretative Centre also displays an exhibition on the life of the agricultural inventor Cyrus McCormick whose ancestors were neighbours of the Simpson family. For more information: Dergenagh, Ballygawley, County Tyrone Website: www.flavouroftyrone.com Email: [email protected] Tel: +44 (0)28 8776 7259 ULSTER2c 25/10/06 5:23 pm Page 20 Chester Alan Arthur’s father, William, was born in 1796 in the village of Cullybackey just outside Ballymena. He graduated from Belfast College and emigrated to Durham, Quebec in 1815. The future President was born on October 5th 1829 at the parsonage in North Fairfield, Vermont. He studied law at Ballston Spa, New York and taught for a time, becoming Principal of an Academy before being admitted to the Bar in 1854. Since President Arthur’s wife did not live to see her husband enter the White House, his sister Mary McElroy acted as First Lady. In 1882 she visited the old Arthur homestead and met family members still living in the district. She was accompanied by the President’s son Chester Alan Arthur Junior. Arthur Cottage the homestead still preserves the lifestyle of the Arthur family in the 1700s. It is constructed of local materials and is in perfect harmony with its surroundings. The walls, constructed of local stone, are almost two feet thick in places and the bog oak beams and earthen floored cottage in front of the turf fire were built with simple locally available materials. Alongside this ancestral home is an Interpretive Centre relating to the President’s life and times and there are various craft sessions during the open season – baking, lace making and patchwork. There are also Irish evenings with musicians and story tellers regaling visitors with the history and culture of the area. For more information: Dreen, Cullybackey, Ballymena, County Antrim Website: www.ballymena.gov.uk Email: [email protected] Tel: +44 (0)28 2563 8494 ULSTER2c 25/10/06 5:23 pm Page 21 Thomas Woodrow Wilson’s grandfather, James Wilson, emigrated from Strabane to Philadelphia in 1807, eventually settling in 1815 in Steubenville Ohio. Shortly after this he became editor of the Western Herald and Steubenville Gazette having learned his trade at Gray’s Printing Press, Strabane. He joined the Democratic Party and was elected to the State Legislature. Later he became an Associate Judge of the Court of Common Pleas. The President’s father, Joseph Ruggles Wilson, was a Presbyterian Minister and Thomas Woodrow was born in December1856 in the Presbyterian Manse in Staunton Virginia. Later the family were to move further south to the State of Georgia. Even though his Presidency stretched well into the 20th century Woodrow Wilson’s earliest impressions were of the American Civil War. His personal papers reveal “my first recollection is of standing at my father’s gateway in Augusta, Georgia, when I was four years old hearing someone pass and say Mr Lincoln was elected and there was going to be a war.” Wilson was an original thinker and once said, “It is not men that interest or disturb me primarily; it is ideas. Ideas live; men die.” In 1886 Wilson spoke with pride of his Northern Irish roots when he addressed his Scots-Irish ‘cousins’ in America – “we believe as you do that we really made this country.” The Wilson Homestead in County Tyrone from which James emigrated is situated a short distance from Strabane at Dergalt, on the Plumbridge Road. The house where the President’s father lived when he worked in Gray’s Printing Press is furnished as it was in the early 19th century. The main room is the kitchen and the focal point of this space is the open turf fire. The stories that young Woodrow heard at his father’s knee were passed down the years, many were family folk tales told from this hearth . For more information: 28 Spout Road, Dergalt, Strabane, County Tyrone BT82 8NB Website: www.strabanedc.com Tel: +44 (0)28 7138 2204 ULSTER2c 25/10/06 5:23 pm Page 22 Culinary Crossover The westward movement of the Scots Irish across the Atlantic has resulted in many tangible cultural connections between Northern Ireland and North America, not least of which, food and drink! The Water of Life During the Plantation of Ulster, the Scottish settlers brought with them their practice of distilling illegal whiskey, or “moonshine”, from ingredients such as barley, raisins, rye and corn. Whiskey making is firmly entrenched in the tradition of the North of Ireland - the Old Bushmills Distillery, County Antrim, is the World's oldest licensed Whiskey Distillery. It has been producing Malt Whiskey for almost 400 years, since King James I granted their original licence to distil 'Aqua Vitae' (Water of Life) in 1608. The Scots Irish took their moonshine making skills to North America. When whiskey was taxed after the Revolutionary War, the Scots Irish settlers rebelled against the law. This Whiskey Revolution was eventually settled. Food Fusion As with moonshine, the Scots Irish brought their culinary practices to the New World, and in particular the art of baking. Jenny Bristow, one of Northern Ireland’s favourite Chefs, knows only too well the extent to which this baking tradition links both sides of the Atlantic. Jenny has been exploring Irish American recipes for her most recent television programme in the US and has identified incredible similarities between both baking traditions. Below is a recipe from Jenny, popular on both sides of the Atlantic, which highlights this common baking interest. The culinary practice which unites both Northern Ireland and America demonstrates the far reaching impact of the Scots Irish journey. Very Irish Potato Apple Cake 225g (1/2 lb) cooked potatoes, finely mashed 2 cooking apples, peeled and finely diced 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon 30g (1 oz.) Demerara sugar 1 dessertspoon lemon juice 1/2 teaspoon salt and pepper 30g (1 oz.) melted butter 55g (2 oz.) flour Butter and caster sugar to serve Into a bowl, place the diced apple, cinnamon, Demerara sugar and lemon juice. Cover and leave to sit while preparing the potato cake. This dish is easier to make if the potatoes are still warm. Cook and finely mash the potatoes, add the salt, pepper and gradually work in the flour until the dough becomes very pliable. On a floured board roll out the dough 5 mm (4 in.) thick and cut into circles approximately 7.5 cm (3 in.) in diameter. Cover one round with the apple mixture, dampen the edge and cover with the second piece. Seal the edges with a fork or by pinching with your fingers. Cook on the griddle until golden brown and cooked. Spread with melted butter and caster sugar. Alternatively, this dish can be cooked in the oven at 190 C (375 F) for 20 minutes. ULSTER2c 25/10/06 5:23 pm Page 23 Direct Air Access to Northern Ireland CANADA Inverness Vancouver Aberdeen Toronto UNITED STATES OF AMERICA Glasgow Newark Edinburgh Newcastle Londonderry BELFAST Teesside Blackpool DUBLIN Liverpool Leeds/Bradford Manchester Norwich East Midlands Shannon Amsterdam Birmingham Cardiff Bristol London Southampton Exeter Bournemouth Getting to Northern Ireland Northern Ireland is easy to get to and easy to get around. Excellent fast ferry links from England and Scotland to Belfast and Larne, three airports with frequent low cost flights from the UK and beyond, plus good roads, buses and trains to take you where you want to go. Guernsey Jersey Paris By Road/Rail Translink +44 (0)28 9066 6630 www.translink.co.uk Driving and Car Rentals Driving in Northern Ireland is on the left side of the road. Car rental companies, in general, do not rent to those under 21 or over 70 years. All For North American visitors, drivers must hold valid licences. there’s a direct flight from For terms and conditions, Newark to Belfast with always check with the car Continental Airlines. Log on to rental company before you www.continental.com. travel and for insurance reasons, advise the company if And visitors from Canada also you are planning to travel have direct access from Toronto between Northern Ireland and and Vancouver to Belfast with the Republic of Ireland. Zoom Airlines. For more information visit Passport/Visa Requirements www.flyzoom.com. A valid U.S. passport is required to visit the island of Ireland. By Air Visitors of all other Belfast International Airport nationalities should contact +44 (0)28 9448 4848 their local British Embassy, www.belfastairport.com High Commission or Consular Office prior to traveling to Belfast City Airport Northern Ireland. +44 (0) 28 9093 9093 www.belfastcityairport.com Medical For all visitors, including those City of Derry Airport from the United States, private +44 (0) 28 7181 0784 medical insurance is highly www.cityofderryairport.com recommended. Please check with your carrier before By Sea departure regarding your Port of Larne coverage. EU Members can +44 (0)28 2887 2100 access information about the www.portoflarne.co.uk European Health Insurance Card (EHIC) by logging on to Port of Belfast www.dh.gov.uk/travellers. +44 (0) 28 9055 4422 www.belfast-harbour.co.uk Geneva Pisa Nice Barcelona Palma Alicante Faro Malaga There are direct flights to Shannon and Dublin from many cities Currency In Northern Ireland, the currency is sterling. Any credit cards that bear the Visa, MasterCard or American Express symbol will be widely accepted in Northern Ireland. Visitors with other cards should ask in advance or check if that card is on display where they wish to use it. Telephone/Mobile/Cellular Only digital phones with GSM subscriptions and a roaming agreement will work on the island of Ireland. Visitors should consult with their supplier before departure. Landline If calling Northern Ireland from abroad, all telephone numbers must be prefixed with 00 44 + area code (without 0) + local number. To call Northern Ireland from elsewhere in the UK or to make an internal call, dial area code (with 0) + local number. To call the Republic of Ireland from Northern Ireland dial 00 353 + area code (without 0) + local number. All Ireland Information For details on the rest of Ireland visit: www.discoverireland.com 25/10/06 5:23 pm Page 24 R15m/05/06 ULSTER2c ISBN: 1 86193 189 1 Nor thern Ireland Tourist Board, 59 Nor th Street, Belfast, BT1 1NB Tel: +44 (0) 28 9023 1221 Textphone: +44 (0) 28 9044 1522 Fax: +44 (0) 28 9024 0960 www.discovernor thernireland.com This document can be made available on request in braille, audio, large print, computer disk and pdf. Every care has been taken to ensure accuracy in the compilation of this brochure. NITB cannot accept responsibility for omissions or errors but if these are brought to our attention, future publications will be amended. Acknowledgements Text: Alister McReynolds MA, BEd, FSA(Scot) Fellow of the Huguenot Society of Great Britain and Ireland Design: Mitchell Kane Associates, Belfast Printed in the UK by W & G Baird Special thanks for co-operation to: Andrew Jackson Centre, President Grant Ancestral Homestead, Chester Alan Arthur Ancestral Home & Interpretive Centre, Wilson Farmstead, Ulster Folk and Transport Museum, Ulster American Folk Park, William Roulston, Ulster Historical Foundation and to all other organisations featured. Picture of Jenny Bristow courtesy of McKeag Studios, Coleraine