top orchid spring 2012 - Bournemouth Orchid Society

Top Orchid
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Spring
2012
HID SOCIET
BOURNEMOUTH ORCHID SOCIETY
Top Orchid
Programme
2011
Sat 24 Sept
Autumn Show
Barrington Theatre, Ferndown BH22 9TH
Fri 28 Oct
* Helen Millner
Growing Cases
Fri 25 Nov
* Geoff Hands
Vandaceous Orchids
Sat 10 Dec * Christmas Lunch Days Hotel (formerly Marsham Court Hotel) 1 pm
2012
Fri 27 Jan
* Allan Burdis
Sat 25 Feb
Spring Show
Fri 30 Mar
Sun 15 Apr
Slipper Orchids In Close-Up
Allendale Centre, Wimborne Minster BH21 1AS
Sara Rittershausen (Burnham Nurseries)
Coach Outing
McBean’s & Laurence Hobbs
20th World Orchid Conference
Fri 27 Apr
* Colin Carter
Fri 25 May
* Annual General Meeting
Fri 29 June
Kelvin Bush
Sun 22 July
* Garden Party
Fri 31 Aug
* Ted Croot
Sat 15 Sept
Autumn Show
Orchids for the Windowsill
followed by Plant Auction
Stanhopeas
Hosted by Graham & Pat Smith; 2.30 p.m.
Lynmoor Farm, Newmans Lane, West Moors,
Dorset, BH22 OLW
The Story of Orchids at Chatsworth
Barrington Theatre, Ferndown, BH22 9TH
* Members may sell plants only at these meetings
Front Cover: Potinara Haw Yuan Gold exhibited by Brian Gould
(Photo John Denis)
All Photographs and artwork by Allan Burdis unless otherwise stated.
All photographs and articles are the copyright of the Bournemouth Orchid Society and their authors, and
should not be reproduced without permission.
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At last Spring has sprung and with it our first Show of the
new year. As it turned out this was one of the most successful shows for several years. We had 375 paying visitors through the door who enjoyed the multitude of
stunning orchids. I have tried to put as many photos of
the Show as possible in this issue but, as always, space
does not allow for more. The results are again printed as a
pull-out and more images of the Show will be posted on the Bournemouth Orchid Society website, so don’t forget to visit as often as you
can.
This is a busy time of year with repotting in full swing and is a job that
cannot be delayed for too long or plants will not get off to a good start.
They need enough time to recover and get into growth and allow new
roots to establish before the end of the growing season in the Autumn.
Plants that have been newly repotted will require a few weeks to settle in
and get going, so a shadier spot will be better for them. Do not water too
frequently, try to lightly spray the foliage and surface of the compost
with clean rainwater at frequent intervals, being careful to avoid water
running into the centre of any growths.
New roots should start to grow and when this is evident more frequent
watering and feeding can start.
After a long winter plants will not be used to bright sunlight and so your
greenhouse shading must now be in place. I have shading which can be
rolled up and down as required and has been deployed on all sunny days
for at least a month. If you leave it for too long, before you shade the
greenhouse, plants can be permanently damaged and you will have to
live with burnt foliage as a constant reminder for several years.
Don’t forget to book your seat on the coach trip to Mc Bean’s and Lawrence Hobbs, April 15th there is still time if seats are available. This is a
trip not to be missed. See pages 25 and 26.
Allan Burdis
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GROWING CASES
A talk by Helen Millner on October 28TH 2011
The importance of global conservation
Helen’s particular favourites are the Restrepias. Unfortunately, globally, in
the wild where they live, the forests have been destroyed. Some examples
are Costa Rica and Singapore. In the former, subsistence farming and
road development have disrupted the eco system. Any change in the use
of land, even if useful, causes damage. Singapore was once virgin forest,
and is the largest eco disaster in the whole of S. E Asia, with little original
habitat left. Raffles now stand in the place of one such natural habitat.
Conservation is needed both ‘in situ’ (using a holistic approach to the natural eco system as a whole, and ‘ex situ’, where a threatened group of
plants is protected ‘in captivity’.
In the wild (in situ), orchids are threatened by climate change, pollution,
and loss of biodiversity. In ‘captivity’ there are now fewer greenhouses
(often through increasing costs, or given up by growers through ill health
or death, when their collections are fragmented). Many species are harder
to obtain except at shows through ‘foreign’ traders. Those which are sold
for the ‘mass market’ usually are un-named, so cannot be used for meaningful hybridisation. We growers also create our own ‘pollution’ through the
use of chemicals. And we contend with slugs, snails, mealy bug, woolly
aphis and the like.
One answer-use cases!
The solution lies in a cheaper means of looking after species plants, and a
Wardian Case is ideal. Invented in the 19th Century by Dr. Nathaniel Ward,
the case was designed to transport plants across the world on board
ships. It revolutionised the survival rate by increasing it from 5% to 95%.
You can spend a great deal of money on such a case, but you don’t have
to. You can use anything which traps humidity and lets in light and air. For
example you can use the top half of a clear Coke bottle, a propagator, a
seedling flask and aquarium or a terrarium (a fine one was exhibited the
European Orchid Congress in Dresden) [See page 4]. Even a goblet will
do.
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(the last prize in the raffle was a glass ashtray which Derek suggested
could become a ‘case’ for small species. The audience did not take him
seriously, and there was the usual reluctance to take that final item)
The ‘do it yourself’ part of the talk
High humidity is the key advantage of this
method, as dryness is what causes damage to plants. Humidity is trapped by a
case of some kind. You can use special
bulbs too, to provide the right kind of light.
‘Cold’ colours cause plant growth and
‘warm’ colour, flowers. They can be controlled using timers.
For the wall at the back, Epiweb is ideal,
and is like pan-scrub material, and has
the advantage of being non-capillary, and
Photo Colin Carter
the wall can be got going using dry sphagnum or moss
spores. During the discussion members suggested alternatives, as Epiweb is not easy to get-like large scouring pad material,
acrylic sheeting and even cork tiles, providing none of these contain
chemicals.
It is easy to set up a small case.
All you need is a clear container
with clay pebbles at the bottom,
which hold water. It is best not to
let water sit in the bottom of the
case, and if you keep the light out
where the sides of the case are
damp, it prevents the build up of
algae.
Or you can use a sump from
which to suck up the water for it to
trickle down the wall, and then be
recycled. Use only rainwater for
spraying, as hard water damages
the roots. The plants sit on a wire
mesh supported above the sump
by upturned clear pots with notches cut in the rims. Her experience
is that under these conditions the
plants grow very quickly.
Photo Colin Carter
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The plants are not ‘watered’ as such, but simply sprayed. The roots simply
stay wet. For those keeping seedlings in a propagator, their ‘feet’ can be
left in water, but take care you do not rot the roots.
Ventilation is not easy to achieve. Helen’s particular problem is that their
cat’s favourite place to sleep is on the top of the case, thus restricting the
air flow. The only answer then is to shoo the cat away (humanely, I hope).
Or if a cat is not your problem, just take the lid off for a while.
We do need to know what the temperature is by hanging a thermometer on
the wall, and a cheap £1.99 one is adequate. A hygrometer is also useful.
Weeds may be removed using long
tweezers
Feeding is always a controversial topic!
One school of thought says that because a plant manufactures its own
food, it needs no feed whatever. Others
prefer to use a very weak feed. It was
pointed out by one member, John, that
masdevallias need no feed at all.
Chris Broomfield, ever one to experiment, has tried using a small heater in
the water as well as a tiny mister (also
in the water), and puts a little feed into
it too.
Colin Carter proposed a vote of thanks
for an interesting, practical and informative evening.
A circular Wardian Case seen at the
European Orchid Conference (EOC)
Dresden in 2009.
This was a spectacular exhibit which
gives a 360 deg view of the plants.
Photo Allan Burdis
Derek Copley
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SPATHOGLOTTIS
I
first encountered this attractive genus a few years ago, and, since
they are easy to grow and have pretty flowers, I decided to try to build
a collection. If you like terrestrials, you might like to have a go at growing them too.
THE GENUS
Spathoglottis is a genus of terrestrial orchids, numbering about 40 species,
ranging from southern India and China through Malaysia and the Philippines down to New Caledonia. Pseudobulbs arise from a creeping rhizome
and give rise to up to half-a-dozen plicate leaves. In some species the rhizome remains intact; in others it disintegrates, leaving the pseudobulbs
separate and allowing them to be handled individually. They can be flattened or shaped a bit like an iris bulb. A flower-spike arises from the base
of the bulb and depending on species can grow to up to a metre tall,
though most grow considerably less. The flowers are medium sized and
usually an attractive bright yellow often with red or reddish colouring near
or on the lip, but some species bear purple or different coloured flowers.
They bear a surprising resemblance to small yellow Phalaenopsis, to
which, however, they are not even remotely related. The number on a
spike varies according to the species, but may number up to a dozen,
though they will not all be open at once. Indeed, in some species, they
can be sequential with the old flower falling as soon as a new one opens.
The genus is closely related to Bletilla and like them are grown as garden
plants in the tropics. Indeed, some widespread species have the status of
roadside weeds! In my experience they tend to flower in early or mid autumn or in spring though it is perhaps truer to say that they will flower
when the pseudo-bulb is mature and ready to produce its inflorescence,
which tends to be later in the year.
CULTURE
Spathoglottis are generally intermediate to warm growing and rather seasonal. They need good light to flower, and plenty of water when in growth.
They have the good appetites and it pays to feed them regularly when they
are growing, using a high nitrogen formula for growth. As the bulbs mature, flower spikes will begin to appear and at this point change to a high
potash fertiliser. After flowering the leaves will start to fall. At this point
give them a rest for a couple of months. Examine the bulbs in the New
Year and when you see new shoots starting to appear, re-pot them.
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I use an open compost comprising 5 parts by volume of seedling bark, 3
parts of Perlite and 2 parts of sphagnum moss rubbed through a sieve. I
use a deepish pot and crock with pumice or coarse grit to ensure perfect
drainage. I hang my pots up near the glass to ensure they get a much light
as possible. I also make sure that they are well ventilated. Many species
produce separate pseudobulbs that can be treated like bulbs when repotting and can soon build to a respectable potful. Species with flattened
bulbs should be covered with compost to depth of 4-5 cm, others planted
with their noses just showing. Water to settle them in and then leave them
alone. It is a good idea to wait until shoots break through the surface before watering again. Then water and feed regularly.
SOME SPECIES
SPATHOGLOTTIS KIMBALLIANA
Endemic to Borneo, this is more robust than the other species I grow, and
if well grown is capable of producing spikes up to 80 cm tall though often
less. The flowers are variable in colour, but are usually a lovely clear lemon yellow, and up to 6 cm across. The taller the spike the bigger the flower
is likely to be. The flowers open in succession with the old flower falling as
the new flower opens so there are never very many open at a time. The
pseudobulbs are small and round and covered by the leaf bases. New
growths are connected to the older growths by a persistent rhizome, with
the older bulbs retaining their leaves so that the plant has a more
‘herbaceous’ feel than some other species and presents differently. It
flowers mid autumn, and is well worth looking out for.
SPATHOGLOTTIS LOBBII
This is warm growing slender species, producing spikes to about 60 cm
but usually less. The flowers are about 3 cm across and vary in colour
from pale to a bright yellow often with reddish side lobes to the lip. Several flowers can be open on a spike so that a good potful will produce a nice
display. This species flowers early to mid autumn. The flattened pseudobulbs separate from the back bulbs as these rot off, so that bulbs can be
potted up in the manner of a Pleione.
SPATHOGLOTTIS PUBESCENS
This species is very similar to S. lobbii, but slightly more robust. It is widespread in Nature, ranging from India through South China to SE Asia. Details and culture as for S. lobbii but the flowers are uniform pale to golden
yellow. This and the above are sometimes available from specialist bulb
nurseries such as ‘Rareplants’. It flowers in late summer to autumn.
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SPATHOGLOTTIS VANOVERBERGHII
This species comes from the Philippines. It is shorter growing than the
other species and the inflorescences are shorter than the leaves, to
about 35 cm. The pseudobulbs are also different, being more obviously bulb-like in shape
and covered by the leaf bases. They also stay
attached to their back bulbs and this fact
needs to be taken into account when repotting.
To complete this catalogue of differences, the
plant flowers in late winter to early spring and
flower before the leaves, giving a different look
to a pot of this species. The flowers are a very
bright yellow and about 25 to 30 mm across.
You may have 2 or 3 flowers open on a spike
at once, making an attractive display.
These are species I have grown and flowered
successfully. There are great many others that
may become available in this country. It is
worth looking at
major orchid
shows, especially among traders from the Far East, or
those you know have a range of unusual
orchids. If you find some it is worth having
a go, as they are very easy and rewarding
to grow, but don’t delay too long – I might
be right behind you!
Mike Powell
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Photographs by Colin Carter
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President’s Jottings
t is said that old age does not come alone, as
some of you know I have a tendency to spend
my holidays, now and then, with the hospitality
of the NHS.
Orchids can also experience a few health problems
with increasing mileage, however, often not of their
own making. Virus can be devastating in that it
weakens the plant and can change the colour of the
blooms, particularly in Cymbidiums. It hardly needs
to be said that it also devalues the plant. It is so easy to go from plant to
plant without' sterilizing your tools e.g., knives and scissors.
Other problems of ill health can come about with the rooting material
breaking down through old age and buildup of salts. Orchid roots in the
wild need water, air and nutrients passing over them and they are often
completely exposed to the elements, therefore, little risk of toxins. Often in
pots the roots can be seen on the surface and not down in the pot, that
must tell you something, if only, this is where the conditions are the freshest.
Not all genera can be treated the same, those of the Oncidium alliance
tend to have a fine root structure and quickly become intolerant of a stale
rooting medium. Phalaenopsis, Vandas and Cymbidiums etc have thicker,
more robust roots, therefore, a coarser more aerated material can be
used. There is some interest in clear plastic pots where the roots can be
seen and observed if things are going wrong. A lot of pot plant Phalaenopsis are grown this way.
My experience has shown that newly potted plants reestablish a new root
system much quicker when the plants are stood on wet sand or peat as
the plants seem to sense the moisture and send down their roots to reach
it.
It hardly needs saying but fresh air whenever possible is a must. February
seems to be a magical month when plants seem to recognize that winter is
virtually past, and spring is just around the corner. With the new growing
season about to start, this is the best time for repotting and dividing those
plants that have outgrown their pots, just make sure you get the tools and
new pots washed and sterilized possibly with Jeyes Fluid, I have always
found this to work well.
I
Keith Andrew
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Graham Smith receives
Prestigious Award
THE 20TH WORLD ORCHID CONGRESS
he mystery started at Dawlish when Johan Hermans asked Colin to make sure he attended the
closing ceremony at the WOC. He was then
asked if he would accept an award on behalf of our
Vice President, Graham Smith. We were intrigued,
what could it be for?
T
We new Graham had many friends in the BOC, and had been a judge for
many years, and he had worked on the committee as a minute secretary,
but what had he been doing for the WOC?
The time arrived and we took our seats in the second
row. We had arranged between us that I should
write the announcement down quickly and then
take a photograph of Colin accepting the award
on Graham’s behalf.
Then Mr. Peter Furniss announced he had the second
WOC Trust medal to present to
Graham Smith, an individual
who has given exceptional service to the Trust in setting up the
web site for the WOC Trust.
The medal was only the second given by the Trust. The first was given to
Dr. Kiat Tan, he was the driving force behind the funding and overseeing
the arrangement for the show.
Congratulation Graham.
Christine Carter.
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The Weird & Wonderful
Coryanthes
The strange tale of the bucket & the bee
n this series I have picked orchids from my
own collection which I consider weird and wonderful and have resisted this example for as
long as I could. Compared to most flowering plants
orchids have very strange and complex flowers,
which have evolved to accommodate specific pollinators to the extreme, but some examples have
taken this to unbelievable limits.
I
The orchid Subtribe Stanhopeinae has orchids with
very complex flowers, they include Acineta, Gongora, Houletia and Stanhopea, all of which would be
eligible to be included in this series of articles but
one amongst them stands out as the ultimate example of the weird and wonderful - Coryanthes,
the Bucket Orchid.
The flowers of this Central and South American orchid attracted many botanists
including none other than Charles Darwin, who studied the complex pollination
of this genus. Other botanists studied them further and so discovered the
strange and complex association between this flower and male Euglossa bees,
collectively called “orchid bees”, of which there are 110 know species.
Only male bees visit the orchid flowers, which do not offer any nectar or pollen
as a reward. So what attracts these bees to the flowers?
Initially attracted by the odour given off by the flower, the bees, in large numbers, crawl over the flower (especially the lip) and, using their front legs, scrape
a waxy substance containing a specific fragrance which is passed to their hind
legs to be stored in special organs. (Honey bees have similar parts known as
baskets in which they store collected pollen). The male Euglossa bee uses
these fragrances to attract female bees who can detect the odour up to 5 miles
away.
Although other orchids, such as Stanhopeas and Gongoras, offer fragrances to
attract Euglossa bees to pollinate their flowers the process is relatively straightforward as the bee frequently encounters the pollinia while busy collecting, and
pollination is achieved without too much complication.
This is not possible with Coryanthes as the pollinia is situated away from the collecting area
and would not, therefore, be picked up by foraging bees.
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So how does this orchid manage to manoeuvre the bee to this vital spot?
The bucket shaped lip is the key.
Before the flower opens, the lip is being filled with water dripped from two
Faucet glands situated above the lip. When the flower opens, these glands
continue to fill the bucket shaped lip until a precise level is reached and at this
point the Faucet glands are turned off and the mechanism is set.
While the mass of bees are frantically collecting the aphrodisiac, inevitably,
some fall or are pushed into the “bucket” where they splash into the water.
Thoroughly wet they cannot fly out or crawl up the slippery sides of the “bucket”
and probably think they are doomed to a watery death. But this orchid has no
intention of drowning the bees but has arranged a cunning escape route which
they eventually discover during their struggles.
Situated at the front and just above the water level is a small opening which is
just big enough, after a ten minute struggle, for the correct species of bee to
squeeze through. The time delay during the bees’ exit is crucial because situated above is the stigma containing the pollen masses and this has to be glued
firmly to its head or back and this takes about ten minutes. Eventually the bee
is able to squeeze through and fly off without any trauma. It soon forgets it
soggy encounter and on visiting another flower and while escaping for the second time will deposit its pollen cargo on the stigma tic surface and complete the
pollination process - job done!
Why orchids such as Coryanthes have evolved such complex flowers one can
only wonder. They have taken advantage of the Euglossa bees’ need for a perfume to attract a mate and in so doing have permanently bound themselves
together. Many flowers target a specific pollinator and it is believed they have
evolved to ensure they have a pollinator dedicated to only their flowers and
therefore guaranteeing they are not enticed away to other flowers.
This strategy is precarious for both parties as they each depend on the other
for their continued existence. It is only recently scientists have been able to understand this complex symbiotic relationship and even now it is not fully appreciated how it works.
Grow these orchids like Stanhopeas, that is, in intermediate temperatures
(12 deg C), and like other members of Gongoreae the flower spikes emerge at
the base of the plant and therefore should be potted in baskets and hung from
the greenhouse roof. During the summer they will require ample watering and
weak feeds, with less of both in the winter.
Search Coryanthes on the Web and view amazing video shots of Euglossa
bees in action!
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The flower in detail
Coryanthes macrantha
Faucet glands
Note they are
“switched on” and
dripping water into
the lip.
Coryanthes speciosa
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An iridescent Euglossa bee has
to squeeze through this narrow
gap formed between the “chin”
of the lip and the anther .
View looking into the “bucket” shaped lip
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From the tropical jungles of South
America, Coryanthes is a prime
example of how orchids have
evolved to have flower structures
designed specifically for a single
species of pollinator.
The male Euglossa bee of a particular
species is attracted to the flowers because they offer a waxy substance
which the bees require to attract a
mate. Without this the male bees
would not be able breed to attract a
mate.
Water has collected in the bucket
shaped lip from dripping faucet
glands and when the correct level
has been reached the flow is turned
off.
While avidly collecting
i t s aphrodisiac the bee loses its
foothold around the slippery edges.
Falling into the water filled bucket,
the bee is unable to fly out due to its
dampened wings and body.
The only escape route is through
a narrow exit just where the reproductive parts are situated.
After struggling to escape, designed
to ensure the pollen is glued securely to its body, the bee is able to fly
off, non the worse for its adventure.
On visiting another flower to collect
more aphrodisiac, the process has
to be repeated, but this time the bee
leaves behind his bundle of pollen
firmly attached to the stigm a t i c surface and thereby pollinating the flower.
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Coryanthes vasquezii
Note how the large sepals and
smaller petals of Coryanthes are
swept back, out of the way, so
they do not interfere with the
activities of the bees.
In this species the flower is
transparent, enabling you to see
clearly the level of the water in
the “bucket”. The exit is underneath the yellow coloured anther
on the left
Coryhopea Wistman’s Wood
A fascinating hybrid between Coryanthes speciosa and Stanhopea oculata a
cross made by Burnham Nurseries 1984. Note how the heavily spotted sepals
are much more prominent and form an attractive feature.
Allan Burdis
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Vandaceous Orchids
A talk by Geoff Hands 25th November 2011
M
any members had been waiting for Geoff, one of our most knowledgeable and experienced growers, to present his talk on Vandaceous orchids. We were not disappointed.
Geoff stated that he had been growing for some 50 years, selling his first
collection (1000 orchids) in 1977. Geoff started his second collection during
1979, initially growing a predominance of Paphiopedilums and Oncidiums
(original grouping), however; over the last 6 years the emphasis has shifted
towards Catasetums and Vandaceous orchids generally. His present collection amounts to some 1500 plants.
Geoff explained that all Vandaceous
orchids, even though at times they may
not look like it (e.g. large multi branched
Neofinetia falcata), are in fact monopodial orchids. Monopodial orchids are
those displaying a growth habit in which
the stem may continue to grow indefinitely at its apex1. Geoff then went on to
explain that the nodes between the leaf
bases and the stem can form into a
flower spike, a root or (especially when
the top growing tip has been damaged)
Neofinetia falcata
a new shoot.
The Vandaea (mostly ‘Old World’ orchids with only 2 having been discovered in the New World (the Americas) are split into three tribes (see diagram below ) using Dressler’s classification system ,and it was the
Aeridiniae on which Geoff focused his presentation.
The Vandaea
Angraecina
Aerangisiniae
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The first genus he presented was Aerides which were established by Lour
during 1790. The type species is described as A. odorata which Geoff explained is spread throughout the old world over an area of some 4,000,000
square miles! The flowers of this species
attract Euglosine bees which they cheat by
not providing them with a meal while treating the bees to the pleasure of passing on
their pollen!
The Plants
Vandaceous orchid species (a small selection from Geoff’s extensive slide show)
Aerides falcata
This species has been named from the
roman word falcate, meaning shin guard.
Vanda teres
Geoff explained that these terete
leaved plants need much light. In the
Far East; pieces are simply stuck into
the ground where they quickly grow
into hedges. The locals then cut the
orchid hedges with shears and repeat
the process by planting on the tops in
the same way!
Renanthera storei
Geoff explained that his plant grows
150mm in height per year to a height of
1.75 meters +. It has 100mm diameter
flowers and flowering is initiated following cold nights (12 – 150C) exposure.
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Ascocentrum miniatum (yellow form)
This species formed the basis of the first
Ascocendas
Rhyncostylis gigantea Red (left)
The leaves grow up to 50mm in width
and this red form is a very nice example
Vandaceous orchid hybrids (a small selection from Geoff’s extensive slide show)
Vanda Miss Joachim (left) This was a very
early hybrid which caused a sensation as well
as much controversy. Some experts even today cannot t accept that such a good hybrid
could be produced more than a hundred
years ago by a woman!
Vascocenda Thai Sky (below)
Blue is not a common colour displayed by orchid flowers and at 65mm diameter, this
hybrid is a good example.
This was a very well presented talk, competently displayed with detailed explanations and
many objective growing tips, covering the
sheer range of colours and forms of this fascinating group of orchids.
Geoff stated that he particularly likes to find
and study orchids in the wild from which he
was able to convey many small, but nevertheless, very useful pieces of advice for those interested in growing Aeridiniae species and
hybrids.
The talk was concluded by Roger Russell who kindly provided Geoff with
the society’s vote of thanks which was well received.
My thanks to Geoff for treating us to a fascinating talk and for providing the
stunning photographs including the ones reproduced in this article.
BOS members should feel proud to have Geoff as one of their members
because he, as indeed many others, holds so much in house knowledge
which he is more than willing to share.
Nick Fry
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Slipper Orchids in Close-Up
A Talk by Allan Burdis 27th January 2012
llan started growing orchids with a starter pack from Burnham Nurseries at a very young age. He progressed well and purchased his
first Paphiopedilum which was Paphiopedilum insigne
As the collection grew in 1980 Allan decided to specialise in Paphiopedilum, this was a time when new species and hybrids were introduced,
this started great interest in the Genera for slipper growers
A comparison of slipper orchids to other Genera was described in detail
showing the stigmatic surface and pollen and pollinia, the male and female
sexual organs are fused together to form the column.
A
Cypripedium
Cypripediums are endemic to the northern temperate zone of Europe,
Asia, Japan, and North America
Cypripedium calceolus a native of Europe was first described in 1541 and
after near extinction in Britain an introductory programme has now been
implemented.
Cypripedium reginae comes from wet areas of North America and Canada,
a particular plant had grown into a large clump with over two hundred
stems
Cypripedium formosanum from Taiwan was
recommended as a beginners plant, it also
readily bulks up into a specimen plant
Compost suggested for formosanum
1 part John Innes 1 or 2 potting compost. 2 or
3 parts Sponge rock, bottom of pot crocked
for drainage and top dressed with pine needles.
Following on, a guide to repotting was shown.
Remove plant from pot, clean, wash and divide into no less than three growths then repot
into a large pot making sure any new growths
just protrude out of the compost.
Now for something new to most of us - an introduction to Benny the Bee -
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Cypripedium formosanum
‘Highcliffe Castle’
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Benny flew around and settled on Cypripedium reginae and we watched him pollinate the
flower.
As the bee searches for nectar or even is just
attracted by the colour of the flower, he falls
into the pouch.
Guide hairs allow him to climb up the back of
the flower and in so doing the back of the bee
comes into contact with the female parts of
the flower and contact is made with the pollen
which attaches to his back and eventually
makes his escape.
The bee then goes through the same procedure on another flower, but the pollen on his
back is then deposited on the stigmatic surface, ensuring pollination is completed.
There are hairs at the exit point from the
pouch to stop entry into the flower via the “Benny the Bee” demonstrated how
slipper orchids are pollinated
“back door”.
Phragmipedium
There are twenty to thirty species of Phragmipedium from tropical
Central America.
Cultural requirements
Grow in medium light with constant moisture at the roots, water with rain water below a pH of 7.5 and feed up to 800 ppm
Several species were then shown including
caudatum, schlimii, wallisii, pearcii, besseae , lindenii,
Lindenii has no pouch but three fertile anthers and is self fertile.
If left unimpeded the petals on some spePhragmipedium besseae
cies can grow up to 1 meter in length.
This was followed by another surgical procedure on a Phragmipedium
caudatum
The side of the lip was removed to show a shiny surface inside and the
stigmatic surface in detail.
In 1981 Libby Besse came across a new, bright red flowering Phragmipedium, which was named besseae after her.
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This was on a field trip to Peru and
later also found in Ecuador, there
is also a yellow form of this species.
As this species grows on steep
wet slopes in its natural habitat,
when grown in cultivation it can be
difficult as it tends to grow upwards out of the pot.
When this flower was dissected it
showed clearly a window -like formation inside the pouch, this is
thought to be an aid to pollination.
One of the later Phragmipediums was
discovered in June 2002 growing in Peru, this was named kovachii, and
has the largest flower in the genus, reaching 12-14 cms across.
Peruflora nursery was entrusted to propagate this species from several
legally collected plants.
The first legal flasks of these seedlings were offered for sale at the World
Orchid Conference in Dijon in 2005.
Culture
Kovachii requires 80% shade 75% humidity temp approx 68°F.
Water with rain water with a PH value of 6.5 to 7.5 and feed at 500 ppm.
Peruflora advises to feed with dilute cow manure (not advised).
The final species to be described was the very small white flowered Mexipedium first reported from Mexico in 1985
After dissecting the lip, maroon and yellow hairs were visible to act as
guides for the pollinator.
Paphiopedilum
Paphiopedilum rothschildianum was first discovered in Borneo in 1887.
There were three known sites
where this species grows, but is
almost extinct in these areas
now.
It is very slow to grow and can
take about eighteen months for
each new growth to mature.
A very interesting aspect of this
flower is the staminode which
mimics a colony of aphids and
this was shown in great detail.
Syrphid flies lay their eggs on this area and in their jostling for position
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some fall into lip and eventually pollination occurs.
The Parvisepalum Group, delenatii,
armeniacum, micranthum, emersonii
have flowers which are very similar in
construction to Cypripediums.
P. delenatii was first recorded in 1913
and rediscovered in 1991 making this
plant now readily available.
Three varieties were described being
standard, album and the vinicolor which
has a very attractive maroon edge and
colour on the underside of leaf.
P. armeniacum from South West China
Paphiopedilum delenatii
described in 1982.
var. vinicolor
P. micranthum means small flower but
this turned out to have one of the largest flowers in the whole group of Paphiopedilums.
Suggested potting compost for Phragmipediums and / or Paphiopedilums:Six parts coconut chips (1-3 cm) two parts Sponge rock one part charcoal
Alternative for Phragmipedium is Rockwool chips, with Perlite or Sponge
Rock
Useful Books
The Genus Cypripedium by Phillip Cribb, published by Timber Press
The Genus Paphiopedilums by Phillip Cribb published by RBG Kew
Tropical Slipper Orchids by Harold Koopowitz published by Timber Press
Slipper Orchids of Vietnam by Leonid Averyanov, published by RBG Kew
For those interested, details of the British Paphiopedilum Society were given and members were encouraged to seek membership.
The presentation ended on a humorous note showing Allan's carpet slippers!
This was followed by a very enthusiastic question and answer session
A well earned vote of thanks was given by Nick Fry, followed by loud applause.
Colin Carter
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Spring Show
Picture Gallery
Masdevallia caesia
Exhibited by Alan Sapsard
Winner of :
The President’s Shield
Species Cup
The Frances Simmons Mem. Cup
The Johnnie Dyball Award
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Spring Show
Picture Gallery
Paphiopedilum Nitens
(insigne x villosum)
This hybrid is very variable and
this example most closely resembles the cultivar ‘Sallieri’
Exhibited by Colin Aitkin
A riot of colour on the
non-competitive display
Oncidium
Annalisa Rathenbourg
Exhibited by Derek Copley
Dendrobium infundibulum
Exhibited by Allan Burdis
Non-competitive display
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Prosthecea vitellina
Exhibited by Sue Mill
Cymbidium Sleeping Nymph X
Christmas Joy = (C. Mont Sejour)
Exhibited by Brian Gould
Dendrobium Warragul
“Magenta”
Exhibited by Glen Jamieson
Masdevallia attenuata
x Dracula gorgona
Exhibited by John Denis
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Coach Outing
McBean’s & Laurence Hobbs
Coach will leave BNSS at 08.00 hrs Sunday 15th April
With a comfort stop in Arundel
Arrive McBean’s 10.45 to 12.15 hrs
Followed by 1 hour for lunch in Haywoods Heath
Arrive at Laurence Hobbs 14.00 hrs
(tea and cakes provided)
Arrive BNSS 18.30 hrs
Cost £20 per person
(£10 deposit and £10 to pay on coach)
Bookings made through Roger Russell 01305 786573
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Future Meetings
Sunday 15th April the coach will be leaving the BNSS at 0800 for our trip to
McBean’s and Lawrence Hobbs Nurseries in East Sussex. If you want to ensure you have a seat on the coach you must book before 1st April but you can
still join us after that date if there are seats available, just phone Roger Russell
on 01305 786573 the cost in total is £20. Come and join the ‘Happy Orchid
Tour’.
Friday 27th April The 20th World Orchid Conference. This talk replaces Sarah
Rittershasen “Orchids for the Windowsill “ which was rescheduled for March
instead of the Plant Clinic & Brains Trust, so you need to change your programme card. The World Orchid Conference was held in Singapore
13-20 November 2011 and Colin Carter was lucky enough to attend, so his
report is an event not to be missed.
Friday 25th May is our AGM and Plant Auction evening where once all the official business is over (usually about 40 min.) members plants are auctioned.
Members may bring up to four plants each to offer for sale (if you consider any
of your plants particularly valuable you may set a reserve price to them). Bargains can be had and collections expanded so do not miss this evening.
Friday 29th June We have a talk this evening on a subject I don’t believe we
have had before. We have Kelvin Bush from Bristol who will be telling us all
about his passion for ‘Stanhopeas’. Large blooms and highly fragrant too, so
could be just your cup of tea. If you think you like the idea, then bring your wallet or purse as Kelvin will be bringing plants for sale. Just one plant will fill your
house with their perfume. Cultivation, conditions and many great pictures, see
you there.
Sunday 22nd July It is GARDEN PARTY time and this year we are invited to
Graham and Pat Smith to ‘Party in the Paddock’. A new venue in West Moors,
how to find the ‘Paddock’ will be advised nearer the time I know Graham and
Pat have organised a lovely day so it will be really something to see you all
there.
Friday 31st August
Having recovered from all your holidays now is the
evening where you can relax and be entertained by Ted Croot whose talk was
supposed to have been on the Royal Wedding Day last year but was cancelled. Ted’s talk is ‘The Story of Orchids of Chatsworth’ and is about how the
collection (which I believe no longer exists) was established. Ted is coming all
the way from Sheffield to give this talk so we hope to have a good audience to
welcome him and I am sure you will enjoy.
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Seven Generations
One Passion
Gardening has been the backbone of
Stewarts for over 270 years. We still
grow our own plants, design and build
gardens, sell plants, seeds, bulbs,
tools, compost, fertilisers, feeds and
houseplants.
The difference at Stewarts is that we
have true specialists, people who eat,
sleep and breathe what they do.
People just like you who simply love
gardening!
www.stewarts.co.uk
GardenLands, Lyndhurst Rd, Christchurch
BH23 4SA Tel: 01425 272244
The Country Garden Centre, Broomhill,
Wimborne BH21 7DF Tel: 01202 882462
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President
Vice - Presidents
Chairman
Keith Andrew Esq.
Graham Smith & Allan Burdis
Officers
Dr. Derek Copley [email protected]
Vice - Chairman
Ken Griffiths
Hon. Secretary
Ken Griffiths
Tally House
Hawthorn Road
South Bockhampton
Christchurch
Dorset
Tel. 01425 672492 [email protected]
Hon. Treasurer
John James
18 School Lane
St Ives
Ringwood
BH24 2PF
Tel. 01425 479223 [email protected]
Show Manager
Chris Broomfield Tel. 01202 381019 [email protected]
Hon-Librarian
Dave Longman
Committee
Colin Carter, [email protected]
Glen Jamieson, [email protected]
Mike Powell, [email protected]
Roger Russell (Programme Secretary) [email protected]
Nick Fry (Publicity), [email protected]
Top Orchid Editor
Allan Burdis
31 Heath Road
Walkford
Christchurch
Dorset
BH23 5RH
Tel. 01425 275251
E-mail : [email protected]