ABC in Knitting

ABG
of
F[atKnilttilng
Machilne
C O N T EN T S
1.
FlatKnitting
Machine
Summary
2.
Cam
3.
YarnPath
4.
FabricDistinction
5.
Mechanism
Knitting
Principle
and Knit. Tuck. Welt(Miss)
6.
Transferand Racking
7.
ThreePrimaryStructures
of Fabric
8.
(LoopDiagram)
Diagram
Structure
displayMethod
L
Knitting,
Separation
DrawThread,Pressofi,Rib
10.
Computer
FlatKnitting
Pattern
Development
11.
BasicStructure
Examples
(1) Jacquard
structure
(2) Tubular
(3) VariedStructure
applying
Tuckand Miss
(4) TransferStitch(Structure
Knitting)
1 . F l a t K n i t t i n gM a c h i n eS u m m a r Y
Mostflat knittingmachineshavetwo bedsof needles,forwardand back. The
withonlyonebedof needlesis a specialcase.
machine
flatknitting
household
the onewithboththe forward
withtwo bedsof needles,
Of the knittingmachines
horizontally
is calleda two headknitting
and backbedsof needlespositioned
machine.Theonewiththe hooksat 90 to 100degreeanglesis calleda V bed
knittingmachine.Furthermore,the presenttrendis movingfrom the former
to the automatic,
laborsaving
narrowhandoperatedflat knittingmachines
machines.
flatknitting
controlled
computer
is determined
by howmanyneedlesare
machine
The gaugeof the flatknitting
knitting
machines
of 3
alignedfor oneinchalongthe bedof needles.Presently
to 16 gaugearein use. Of those,5 to 14gaugeis mostprevalent.
machine
in howmany
are usuallyexpressed
of the flatknitting
The revolutions
in a minute(a round),or as
can complete
cyclesthe mainknitcam (carriage)
m e t e rn u m b e r sb, u t e v e na t f a s t e s ot p e r a t i otnh e r e v o l u t i o nasr e 1 2 t o 1 3
machine
is veryimportant
for
of theknitting
rounds.Thisnumberof revolutions
production
(carriage)
configuration
or
rate
the
of
thread
but,the mainknitcam
by the
supplyhas a greatereffecton production.This can be understood
d i f f e r e n c eb e t w e e nt h e J a c q u a r dm a i n u n i t a n d t h e t r a n s f e rm a i n u n i t .
M o r e o v e rt,h e r e i s a l a r g ev a r i a t i o nd u e t o k n i t t i n gm a c h i n eg a u g es i z e .
1 0 g a u g e( m i d d l eg a u g e )a, n d1 2
C o m p a r i n3gt o 5 g a u g e( c o a r sgea u g e ) , 7 t o
moreproduct
to 16 gauge(finegauge),withthe samenumberof revolutions
withthe coarsegauge.
can be produced
whichis the mainpartof theflatknittingmachineknitcamandthe
The carriage,
yarnto fabric,movesthe needleup anddown,and determines
coreof changing
is very complex.For
the finishedstitchsize. For this reason,the structure
machine
forthefirsttime,it is a veryhardpart
peoplewhoareseeinga knitting
it is essential
to
but , for thosewho are goingto studyknitting,
to understand
variousfabricstructure.The
this devicein orderto understand
understand
structureand featuresof the carriagevary betweendifferentmodelsbut,
fouritems.
is comprises
the following
basically
to movethe needlesup anddown,andto determine
O A camassembly
thestitchcondition.
@ A brushto openan closethe latchof the latchneedle,the maintrend
needles.
in knitting
@ A deviceto pulldownthefabric.
yarncarrier,etc.
devicethatincludes
@ An attaching
of fabricis the stitch.To composethe stitch
The smallest
unitin thecomposition
in to
classified
knittingneedlesare needed.Knittingneedlescan be generally
one of fourgroups,the beardedneedle,latchedneedle,compoundneedle,and
to understand
the structureand
needle. Here,it is desirable
double-head
largest
range
which
has
of use. ln the
the
operation
of the latchedneedle,
is dividedinto several
manufacturing
of the latchneedles,the construction
processesfor detailedaccuracy;becausethe shapeis very complex. Also,
rigoroususe and shockcan causethe rivetto becomeloosewhichresultsin
lose of the latchfunction;yarnfrictioncan causethe hookto weardownand
the life of the
debriscan collectin the latchand needlegrooves,shortening
knittingneedle.
- 1 -
of the mainpad or stem,the loophooking
consists
The latchneedlestructure
partcalleda hook,the partimportant
to the stitchcalledthe latch,the rivetwhich
supportsthe openingand closingof the latch,and the latchgroovecalleda
whichallowa cam in the carriage
slot,etc.Someneedleshavea buttattached
performloweringand risingoperations.In this way, becauseof the needles
the latchneedlecan makea stitchby just movingup and
detailedconstruction,
down. The knittingmachineitselfis lightweightand hasa simplestructure.
(Fig.)LatchNeedle
feather
word. In theknitting
machine
CAMis a mechanical
technical
the knitcamhasa
functionin that it is the devicethatconverts
very important
the left/ rightstroke
operation
of the carriageintothe up /downoperation
of the needle,makingthe
shapeof the stitch.lt is necessary
stitchshaperesponding
to understand
to the
cam operation.
(Fig) *n,,.:"r ShapeandNeedleAxis
* T
tl
\lfrl
(1)The needlerises
(2) Clearing
(3)The needledescends
(4) Knockover
Buttpal
-......{)l
5illl
The knittingcam is calleda singlecam,doublecam,3cam,4cam,depending
on the numberof cam alignedin a row. The efficiency
of knittingimprovesas
the numberof camsincrease.
-2-
3 . Y a r nP a t h
The yarn,wrappedaroundthe centerof a roundgimletset in a spool,passes
devicescalleda ya'ntension,
througha tensionmaintaining
and sidetension.
It thenpassesthrougha yarnfeed. Thisset up is calledthe yarnpath. The
controlcan be switchedduringoperationso that coloredyarn an several
threadsof yarncan be usedat the sametimein response
to varioususes. The
n u m b e rm a y c h a n g ed e p e n d i n o
g n t h e m a c h i n et y p e s . W h e n k n i t t i n ga
jacquardpatternor intarsiapatternmanyyarnpathsare needed.
4 . F a b r i cD i s t i n c t i o n
Sometimesit is difficult
to lookat a fabricand tell whetherit is knit or cloth
fabric. To easilymakethe distinction
it is important
to observethe surface
carefully
and distinguish
betweenyarncrossing
at rightanglesand yarnol a
loopstructure.
A s o p p o s e dt o c l o t hf a b r i c ,k n i t f a b r i ci s u s u a l l ym a d ew i t h l o o p sr u n n i n g
horizontally
or vertically.Fabricwithvertically
connected
loopsis warpknitting
fabric.Fabricwithonlyhorizontal
loopsis flatknitting
fabricor circularknitting
fabric.
q.t(!!ling Mechanism
P r i n c i p l ea n d K n i t . T u c k . W e l t ( M i s s )
O The needlehookis maintaining
the oldloop.
/..
":n--.\-
r@
4 The
rne n
needle
e e o rets
is ra
raised
tse oo
by
y In
the
e cam
cam,,ano
andIne
tneoto
on---'fi( .h
loopbegins
to openthe needle
latch.
@ Theneedle
is raised
to it'smaximum
height,
theratch'
and
ll::l1l':L.::'Pl?l:rYcPens
it movesdown. (Clearing)
@ In the hook,newyarnto makea newloopis
alreadysupplied.As the needlelowersthe
old loopclosesthe latch.
Yl
ltl
'U
{1il
r
l
l
l
Di o i
-,\i
O The needlescontinues
to lower,andthe old
loopseparates
fromthe needleto become
partof the fabric.(Knockover)
A newloopis formedin the needlehook.
*lf the newyarnsupplied
is cutor the hookdoesn't
catchit in process@,the
stitchshapewill be
interrupted
makinga
defectin the fabric.
-3-
principle
is basically
The loopformation
of the mechanism,
the sameregardless
kindof needle,warpknitting,
The operation
of the knitcam in
or flat knitting.
position
needle.
relation
the
needle
rising
to
changes
the
of the
This needlepositionis dividedintothreepositions
called,knit,tuck,
and welt
(miss).Combinations
of thesethreebasicknittingmethodschangethe quality
and appearance
of the fabric.
KnitPosition
1
(a)knit
=4
TuckPosition
4
(b)Tuck
c
WeltPosition
"tr s
-?
(c) welt
o
(Fig) FlatKnitloopcondition
(Fig.)Knit,Tuck,Weltneedleposition
A
comPoses
the
TheO condition
re.
structu
transformation
the
completes
The @condition
looP.
knit
of the
formation
to repeattuckor miss
It is impossible
limitlessly.
-4-
6 . T r a n s f e ra n d R a c k i n
The flat knittingmachinerackingdeviceracksthe backneedlesbed leftor right
1 , 2 , 3 . . . n e e d l e si n r e l a t i o tno t h e f r o n tn e e d l eb e d .T h e m a c h i n ei s a l s o
Someknittingmethodsmay
designedtor 112pitch(112needlespace)racking.
or rackingseveralpitchesat a
requirerackingonepitchat a timewhileknitting,
or mesh.
timeas withcableknitting
so that boththe front
Rackingot 1/2 pitchis neededfor needlebed matching
(front
needle
max)withoutthe
and back
and backneedlescan riseas a rib
ends of the needlespokingeach other,and so that frontand back needle
andmeshcan be performed.
transferworkas withcableknitting
\]\tIJ
|l|dtl
( B a c kB e d ) , U , U , U ,
fli]?]
a
ua
tulLt{, ( B a c kB e d )
,U,U,U,
i
fillr\
n n R
Bed)
l) ll A (Front
(b)Transier
(Confront)
Matching
( a ) R i b K n i tMa tch i n g
A latchneedleusedin knittingcan produce3 kindsof structure,
knit,tuck,and
weltby openingandclosingthe latchandthe riseand lowering
but,
operation
by usinga needlewitha transfer
can be
featherattached
transferoperations
doneandan abundant
varietvof fabricbecomeoossible.
when
Position
transferring
,,,
The endof
the feather
entersthe
middleof the
shaved
groove.
K
Feather
(Transfer
side)
(Receiving
side)
(Fig.)Transferneedle
structure
Whenthe transferoperation
is beingperformed
the raisedpositionis higher
thanthe knitposition.
The stitchclearsthe latchand the needlecontinues
to
rise.lt risesto a position
wherethe endof the needletransferfeatherpassesthe
stitch.The end of the receiving
needlethrustsintothe middleof the featherand
mainpart and passesthe middleof the stitch.Withthe transferoperationthe
positionand needlebed matching
transfercam attachment
is very important.
A
slightmistiming
front
needle
and back
riseand fallcan causea dropped
of the
stitch.
-5-
7. T h r e e P r i m a r vS t r u c t ur e s o f F a b r i c
they are collectively
Thereare threebasicstructures
in flat knitting,
calledthe
primary
plain
rib
These
kinds
are
stitch,
stitch,
and purl
three
structures.
three
stitch.
(1) Plainstitch( also calledsingleknit)
This is a very basicstructure
systemknittingwithonlyone sideof needles.
The
maincharacteristic
of this structureis that the frontand backsurfacesof the
fabricare readilydistinguishable.
The sudacewiththe stitchon the needlehook
side is lhe frontstitch,andthe surfacewiththe stitchon the backsideof the
hookis the backknit.
(Fig) FrontStitch
(V shapestitchiorm)
(Fig.)BackKnit
(Semicircle
stitchform)
( Fig.)PlainLoop
t'utrurtlt
W
,q
ild?d
wellvedicallyas wellas
The characteristics
of plainknitfabricis it stretches
h o r i z o n t a l liyt ;i s a l s ot h i n a n d l i g h tw e i g h tD
. i s a d v a n t a gaerse i f o n e o f t h e
stitchesbreaksthe {abriceasilyruns,alsothe fabrictendsto curl.
(2) Ribstitch(alsocalleddoubleknit)
In this structureboththe frontand backsurfaces
are knittedon the needlebed.
plain
have
The frontstitchand backknitof the
knit
a mutualarrangement
every
one waleallowing
the fabricto havegoodsidestretch.
(Fig.)Rib Loop
(Fig.)Rib Stitch
/f#
rib(arlknit)
1 x 1
Thecharacteristics
of ribknitting
arethatcuttingandsewingareeasybecause
lt hasmanyusedis sweater
sideways.
thefabricdoesnotcurl,andit stretches
rib,
sleeves, collars,
etc.
-6-
andgarterstitch)
(3) Purlstitch(Alsocalledlinks,links'links,
usethe needlebed,and is knittedbecauseof
Boththe frontand backsurfaces
the frontstitchand backknitof the flat
the transferneedlesmeet.Transferring
appear.
knitonceeverycoursemakestitchesmutually
(Fig,)PurlLoop
J,J+JJ
ilfirrit
\
J
(Fig.)PurlStitch
lfrtt
JJJJJ
rfitTlru
withplainknit,it doesn'tcurl
purlstitchhasdepthcompared
Thecharacteristics
good
with
elasticity.
fabric
much,andit is a stable
) i s p l a yM e t h o d
D i a g r a m( L o o p D i a g r a m D
8. Construction
The easiestwayto handlea fabricandtell howit was knittedis to analyzethe
to actuallyanalyze
the fabricthereis one other
fabric.But,whenit is impossible
way.Thiswayis to thinkhowthe crosssectionpatternof the fabricwouldhook
on the front and backneedlebedsandsearchfor the flowof the fabricusinga
projection
diagram.
betweenknit,tuck and misson the
to distinguish
To do so, it is necessary
display.
(Fig.)Knitmethoddiagramshowing
knit,tuck,andmiss.
'n'Tt'T
ddd
x-lx
x
fr{flFFFF
e
ied=
structure
takesa
Usingthiskindof loopdiagramto searchfortheexactknitting
very longtimebut,we stronglysuggestusingthismethodas a stepto better
understanding
the fabricmorequickly.
-7-
9 . S e p a r a t i o nK n i t t i n g ,D r a wT h r e a d ,P r e s so f f , R i b
to the bodyand sleevesof sweaters,
elc.
Ribsand sleeveelasticis attached
has
beenknittedto
knittingand drawyarnare add to the fabricthat
Separation
are the
the dimensionof the bodyand sleeveso that theycan be separated
To performthisin seriesthe number
seamregardless
of the groundknitpattern.
is used.
of sheetsis set anda knitting
One unit of thesenumberof sheetsis calleda garment.Usuallythe fabricis
knittedwitha rib attachedusingthegarmentknitting.
Here,we will explainthe 1 x 1, 2 x 1 rib knit usinga stepby stepstructure
repeat,knitting
With 1 x 1, a knitneedleandfreeneedlemutually
so
diagram.
With
x
1,2
on eachother.
2
knit
thatfrontstitchandthe backstitchdon'toverlap
needlesand 1 freeneedlerepeatone unitbuttheyknitso thatfrontstitchand
the backstitchdon'toverlapon eachother.
( F i g . l) x l r i b k n i t
(Fig)2xl ribknit
####
(Procedure)
o Rib
rVt't'YV#
@ Rib
Same as Lefi
//ft'f/f#
\J,/
@ Allfrontstitchneedles
<-Left1/2pitch
$t$btt$$
Thebackneedles
returnto theiroriginal
matching.
Thefrontstitchis all
needles.
BackStitch1x1(2x1)
JJJ+JJJJ,
u]'trfiftftnt
l'trdiftrfutt
+ Right1/2pitch
t-d)'dlrif
ETTT-o-trO-d
All backstitchesare
movedto thefrontbe
thetransfermatch.
#/bi/V!-,fu
Samea left
uuo.lnrfiru
itltltlntifirtr
-8-
,-.\
a/
All frontstitchneedles
knitcourse3 withthe
backneedleshooked.
-0-:-a-:-0-:-a-'
-a-L--a-4.-4,-L-
@ BackStitch 1 x 1
( 2x 1 )
<DrawYa ;
v1 v4 v4 4v 4\./4v/4\y4\y
same as lgft
<-Left1 pitch
e. Left 1/2pitch
-f;&2;3
'.Ap-q,A,,Q.,
T--U--T-:-T-
tff:tfffiU
@ Thefront:.:itches
are
all drawn.
<cast off>
o Theribvarnis sgt;ug
Frontand BackStitch
1 x 1( 2 x l)
. tr
.o.o-0.0.
.Qj.qp.q!.q
-u- T-;lriT-.
uT-:-inrn
does
Needlematchinq
notchange.
?r;T
+Rightlpitch.
'
/-&/#
@ FrontStitch1 x 1
(2x1)
O BackStitchlxl
( 2x 1 )
,O FrontStitch1 x 1
(2 x 1)
O lxlribknit
(2xl ribknit)
is repeated
untiltheproper
Fromthereon the sameknitting
method
"irf,;fir6f
d i m e n s i o nasr ea c h i e v e d .
The processof startingthe groundknit
The rib cuffs(sleeves)
are finished.
of the groundknitis ribknitting,
variesdepending
the basicstructure
on whether
Next,we
plain
purl
wide
rib
knitting
and it'scondition.
front
or
knitting, knitting,
l xa mp l e .
w i l l g i v e a g e n e ra e
(1) RibKnit
(2) PlainKnit
(3) PurlKnitor Widerib
(Knitted
theendcourseof the
ribwiththecoarsestitch)
Sameas left
/fYVWW
Y\AA/Y
1/'^ar
./
o*oo*oo*o
(CoarseStitch)
Sameas left
."rt\'
T\-ilvT\.trv-o,^-A-^.-a-r^.94.-a-^.
J J,!-A.q J J
f irfir
l'tntt
J J J J
ilftntlftffu-
/ft'/Y\V/
-9-
J qa-q J
ltt'-d
f
t'-ild
Withthe formermechanical
flat knittingmachines,
the patternis developedby
changingthe struclurewithknits,tuck!, and missed,6y intercnanlingneeote
standsand cams,or by the jacquard,whichis set at the lowerpj.tion of the
needle.
bed,pushinga jackup to selectthe needles.
Also,a rotatirigmechanical
controlof the variouscoursesperformsmicro-stitches
by piecesin a progra,
chain.Moreover,when the samecontrolcontentis repeaieoover several
coursesthe numbercan be setin a counterdevicecalledan economizer.
To set
the stitchsizethe heightof a 3 to 5 stagestitchcamis determined
andthe screw
is tightened.
Withthe computerized
knitting
machine,
the conlrolcontentfor eachcourseis
containin a "controltape",the stitchsizeis contained
in a "stitchiip.", the set
numberof timesthe controlcontentis repeatedis containedin the "course
e c o n o m i z etra p e " o r " j u m pe c o n o m i z _t a
ep
r e " ,w h e n p e r f o r m i n ita c q u a r o
patternsor complexstructure
knitting
a "patlern
tape"is used,and ihereis the
"patterndevelopment
tape"for indic-atinj
tne posiiionof the needledbed side
movement
to devellPthe pattern.
Eachtapefeedsinformation
intothe record
portionof a controldevice.
Forthe inexperienced
beginner,
making
thesetapestakesa lot of timebut,it is
necessary
to correctly
learnthe basicrules.lf the operation
of the controldevice
is mastered
the computerknittingmachine
can be usedto e"rity-fnitvarious
knittingstructures.
Undera separate
itemwe.willgJplainin a loop,variousbasicknittings
for the
beginner
withlittleknowledge
of knitting
structure.
Forthe composition
andproduction
method
forthevarioustapespleasereferto
the editedinstruclion
manual
withthevariousmodels.
1 1 . B a s i c S t r u c t u r eE x a r n p l e s
Fabriccharacteristics
can be divided.in
jacquardpatternwhichexpressthe
p a t t e r ni n c o l o r s t, u c k o r m i s sv a r i a t i o n - s t r u c t u a
r ensd, r a c k i n go i t r a n s f e r
(transfer
patternor.cableknitting)
structure
knitting.
Next,we willjrfiain a few
basicstructures
withdiagrams.
10 -
(1)Jacquard
Structure
Withthe jacquardstructure
in differences
in dyedyarn
the patternis expressed
number
but,
it
is
of
color
by the
colorsandthe kindof knitting
alsoseparated
method.Here,we will introduce
a ribbedflatjacquardand a
this comparing
plainjacquardusingtwo colors.Next,we willcontinueto explainthis with a
ribbedflatjacquardusing3 colorswiththe backstructure
changedand a blister
jacquard
whichmakesblisters
on thefrontKnitsurface.
(Fig) CrossStitch
Pattern
4
x
4
(Wale) (Course)
C o l o rA
C o l oA
r C o l o rB
I
V
_4
--3
Two Colors
PlainJacquard
TwoColors
FlatJacquard
n r n r
V
l
V
F
l
u
.
U
.
.
CoiorA #
(Course)
Z
C o l oB
r
C o l oA
r
z 3 4
C o l oB
r
(Wale)
/^^l^r
n
\-,\Jlvl /1
'
ltET?t
C o l o rB
the frontsurfacepatternis the samebut. When
Withthe abovetwo structures
jacquard
it is easierto seethe backknityarn betweenthe
is stretched
the flat
frontstitches
andthe patternis unclear.
withonlythe frontstitch.
On the otherhand,the piainjacquardis knitting
float,
it
is
necessary
the lengthof the back
to --q;t
whenmaking:
Therefore,
back
Tnis can be achievedby
yarn at the size wherethereis no dropstitches.
speecor yarnpathbut,the limiton floatingstitchesis
adjusting
the revolution
aboutone inch.
11-
(Fig.)3 color FlatJacquardPattern
6
6
x
(Course)
(Wale)
ColorA
ColorC
C o l o rA
-a-i
6
5
-3
C o l o rC
*,
ColorB
ColorB
C o l o rA
J
2
C o l o rB
I
ColorC
C o l o rA
As shownin the loopdiagram
to the right,
for everyfrontstitchhookedaccording
to
the color,the backstitchknitsshifting
the
hookdirection
everyonecoursefor every
otherlineof the carrierarranoement.
C o l o rB
C o l o rC
C o l o rA
In the priortwo colorf latjacquard
wasknitted
examplethe backstructure
withall needles.
Thiskindof '1x 1 back
structureknittingis calledbirdseyes
structure.
Thethreecolorflatjacquard
alsousesall
needles
to knitthe backbut,withthethree
is formed.
colorsa sidestripedpattern
But.because
the number
in the
of stitches
frontstitchandbackstitchdiffersto a great
degreeas thecolorsincrease,
the birdseye
is usedfor backstructure.
structure
C o l o rB
C o l o rC
C o l o rA
C o l o rB
CoioC
r
C o l o rA
-a-*.-a-.
ColorB
C o l o rC
12-
(Fig) BlisterJacquard
The looppatternis shownbelow
GroundPattern
( b )D o u b l eB l i s t e r
( a ) S i n g l eb l i s t e r
0
---.-x-.-_-.-x-.
. 0 0 .
. . u " u " u u "
-.
. u . . u . . v v . .
m
ffi
ffi
withmissapplied
a variation
structure
Theblisterstructure
is basically
to rib
'ground'
knitting.
The flat part of the fabricis called
patternpart)is called'blister'.
and the liftedpart (the
The numberof blisteryarns(coloryarns)supplied
to one courseof the fabric
it is singleblisteror doubleblister.
whether
determines
-13-
(2)Tubular
Withthe tubularplainfabricthe frontstitchand backstitchare mutuallyknitted.
The finishedplainknit structure
is the sameas fabricknittedtubularon a
circularknittingmachine.
(Fig) Tubular
7
T
\
'
ltltltltltltT
FrontStitch
-a-43-a-a3-a-
tr.n Stitch
)
/
firrtrfiftnt
-a-oi.-a-p--43
FrontStitch
l
I Knittedmutually
,
Backstirch
lf two yarns(yarnpaths)aresupplied,
oneyarnknitsthewiderib,andthe other
just
yarnis knittedwiththe needles
that
notknittedthefirstyarnto separated
the
frontstitchandbackstitchto makea tubular
structure.
(Fig.)The fabricsurfacewith
tw o co l o rtu b u l a rknittinq.
t\r*>"-
"\-qt
\-qr""r
Withtubularknitting,
the frontandbackneedles
neverriseto the sameposition
at the sametime,so transferknitting(matching
up the frontand backneedle
beds)is required
to getequalcrossing
of thefrontandbackneedles.
(Fig.)Transfermatchingand
rib knit matchingcomparison.
Thelengthis notequal.
- -i:-r,-u}-q_oiru(-'lr ':-I
I
Thestitchseparates
and
the backslilchcan be
seen.
14-
Tuckand Miss.
(3)VariedStructure
applying
Heresomeof
rib and flatknitare the basicstructures.
Of the variedstructures
the generally
usedthem areshown.
(FlatKnitStructure)
O BackDappledCloth(2 coursetuck)
-0-,^-A-..-0-,^.-0-A-^.-a-,^.-L.-a,^.-a-^.-a-r^=a-r^.
r^.-0-^=a-r^-P-,\
S tri p e(Mi sso n e ve ryo therline)
W i thth i s me th o d p
, l a i n(flatknit)set
u p w i th n o l o o pn e e d l e si s possible.
Plating
Two kindsoi yarn are attachedto the
p l a i nkn i tstru ctu re
to ch angethe
f rontand back colorsof the fabricor
t o ch a n g eth e r:a te ri a l .
t . tr-u .T
.-
-ffit;
'-du-6-6-ffi6u
(RibStructure)
HalfCardigan
Tuckandknit a
thebackknit.
for
rutul'llyrepeated
FullCardigan
Tuckand knitare rever 'd fc re
frontstitchandbackstitch.
M i l a n oR i b
Ribknit,frontandbacktubularis
repeated.
I /YYYVY\l)
\ /t't't't'\&
ryww\
,&MAA&
,&vw
]J-
r
Interlock(Bothfaceknit,smoothknit)
and
Knitand missare reversed
reoeated
at 1 x 1 needleextraction.
-'t5-
rltlt
a_a_
(4)Transfer
Stitch(Structure
Knitting)No.1- No.4
BasicTransferStitch]
[FlatKnitStructure
N o .1
a plainfrontstitch,the stitch
Afterknitting
is broughtto the back
beingtransferred
stitch,Then,the stilchthatis to be brought
left is returned
by a one pitchrackto the
left,andthe stitchthatis to be broughtleft
is returnedby a one pitchrackto the left,
and the stitchthat is to be broughtrightis
returned
by a one pitchrackto the right.At
this time,in orderto overlapthe transfer
stitchso it can be seenlrom the frontthe
stitchoutsidethe transferstitchis brouoht
back.
temporarily
(Fig.)Doublestitches
<Procedure>
u-irercrfda-0-6-0- o
ffi
6)
v
o-u6+e'T++d<t
J$St
Thefrontstitchis knittedfortwo
courses.
Thetransfer
stitchandoutsidestitchare
transferred
back.
@ Rackingone piich left.
@ Thepartto be movedleftis transferred
forward.
Racking
c"e pitchright.
0
+ o
6T5-6.-6 Tbf
Thepart1 ie mcvedrightis
transferre orward.
8) Theracki. ;eturned
to it'sorioinal
:osition.
t
5t
Repeat
o
()\
\g
roRr
5:OO-,
Thestitches
remaining
in the backare
forward.
transferred
rboveB si
5TT
o.o-O-
_oT*#
pf
rrozffite
@
@
@
1 6-
lilt-6 .cr.-o'dnr
BasicMeshPattern]
[FlatKnitStructure
No.2
, l l f : i r ] , , : : ; ; ; ; : , , ' f , iThe
! plainfrontstitchis knittedto make a
l r
t l t. : :
i ' . . l l . : . . 'i : i : : . : ; 1 1
t , I
t l t t. .r.::.l f.:,:'.f:.:::.11I,
. , l ' ' r i : . ,. :. : l | f l
r f I f
t l t lrtl,',',
tirttt tt
.i',',.,,',,13,,
I
t f
: J : ; f -".;',"
' :' il :| .t| itri rt r i'
t r t r' l' 'i rr ',i , l : : 1
..'.rf..:
l l I . t . t . ' r !: , :
r f , ' . t t ' . . . l l l : ; :r :.f"' lf ft l t f r '
f ttl
t l I .t.t.t.t, .....: ::.:.ll ||| It
t l I r . r . r . r . r :: . . .1 , . . . . :| : :| : l t I I I I
l f I:.r.r:J.:i .l.lt|||||r
I t t f ^ r - t _ r - f t. -. , t l t f l l t f l
l l I I | | | t | : . : . 1| r t t r | | t
f l I t t l t l l | : : t l t t r f t t r l
. t t t t t r t r t r
t l I l l t l l t t
l l
'l a f t r l f l l ' f f t t f f t t r f
a I a a r a l r .
. . . . . | . a a
patternwithan openingin everyotherline.
As withthetransfer
pattern,
a suitablestitch
fromthe patternknittedeveryotherline is
b r o u g h t o t h e b a c k n e e d l e .l t i s t h e n
returned
to thefrontbe a 1 pitchshiftto the
left.In thiscondition,
if the frontplainstitch
is knitteda hookstitchis formedat the
needleclearedby the transferstitchbut,on
the nextcoursethe plainstitchwillrun in a
line.
I
Af t e rth a t, th e sti tchh o o ke don the needlenot used in the tr ansferof the pri or
c o u r sei s re tu rn e dto th e fro n tby a 1 pitchshiftto the r ightever yother line,an d
f r o n tpl a i nkn i tti n gi s p e rfo rm ed.
Effective
knittingcan be done by r ever singan d
r e p e ati n g
th e a b o veste p s.
<Procedure>
uoTmr6-0-6u-u-d'
unucru0-0-t'crcrcr
O Thefrontstitchis knittedfortwo
c0urses.
(^
v
Thetransfer
stitchis transferred
back.
\t
Racking
onepitchleft.
\1/
STDv.cvo\r0-0-cr
@
.,o&r+dftr&nt
Thestitchhookedon theback needleis
returned
forward.
(v Thefrontstitchis knitted
fortwo
A
c0urses.
\9
Thetransferstitchis transferred
back.
o
Racking
onepitchright.
A
@ Thestitchhookedon the backneedleis
returned
fonvard.
M
o
ffi
@
@
/i\
\,
ffi
ffi
@
)
+
l
@
A
v
-17-
Repeatthe above8 steps.
No.3
[WideRibBasicFrontStitchTransferKnit]
fromthe plainknit.
Thisstructure
is different
The front stitch and back knit must be
knittedseparately.
The transferstitchprocedure
is the same
as the plainfabricbut,here,to shiftonlythe
frontstitch,the stitchthat is knittedon the
backneedleis lefton the backsideneedle
of lhe stitchthatwas returned
to the frontby
the right/leftshift. The stitch must be
to the frontbeforeknittingthe
transferred
next courseor the knitting not continue
the backneedlewillget hungup.
because
<Procedure>
W
w
W
W
O Thewideribis knittedfortwo courses.
/a
v
\9/
Thetransferstitchandoutsidestitchare
transferred
back.
Racking
onepitchlefi.
Thepadto be movedleftis transferred
forward.
v
A
a/
Racking
onepichright.
Thepafito be movedrightis transferred
forward.
to it'soriginal
@ The rackis returned
position
(Knitting
position).
W
A
a/
The stitcheshiddenbehindthe front
forwardand
stitcharetransferred
overlapped.
Repeatthe above8 steps.
W
W
o
(r\
\3'
ai
v
@
-18-
N o .4
[WideRibBasicFrontStitchCablePattern]
front
Withthe cablepattern,afterrepeating
stitchand back stitchknitting,the front
stitchand backstitcharecrossed.The rack
p i t c h w h e n c r o s s i n gc h a n g e sw i t h t h e
the cableaccording
methodof twistknitting
of the cable.
to the numberof frontstitches
givenhere,the threefront
In the example
s t i t c h e sc r o s s b u t , 3 p i t c h r a c k i n gi s
performed.
Therefore,
to preventapplying
the
a loadto the stitch,beforeperforming
crossknitting,new stitchesare not made
thatjust returnedto the
on the 3 needles
In
words
front. other
theyaremadeto miss.
The knitmethodthatcutsthe loophooked
needleis called"reliefknitting".
on another
<Procedure>
O Thewideribis knittedfor fourcourses.
ffi
is donefor2 courses.
@ Reliefknitting
%
aaj_qq%
Thefrontstitchof thecableis
transferred
back.
3 pitchesleft.
@ Racking
A
\r/
Threestitches
on the rightsideof the
cableare returnedforward.
Racking
6
3 pitchright.(Relatively
pitchesright.)
Threestitches
on the leftsideof the
cableare returnedforward.
Returnto the originalrackingcondition.
Repeatthe above8 steps.
-19-