With the Winter frost reflecting an even colder
Transcription
With the Winter frost reflecting an even colder
ANN SUMMERS / INTERVIEW GIRL A 1 Ann Summers chief executive Jacqueline Gold 1 18 ll that glitters may not be gold, yet it would make sense for Jacqueline Gold to have a twinkle in her eye considering Ann Summers’ recent performance. However, despite results having improved on the previous year, the ambitious chief executive, daughter of West Ham chairman David Gold, remains unsatisfied. “Our performance is up on last year,” Gold says, “but it is not where we would want it to be, because obviously this is a challenging time. But there are also opportunities and I think you With the Winter frost reflecting an even colder economic climate, what does it take to make a lingerie company successful in today’s market? Ann Summers chief executive Jacqueline Gold talks about how the company has survived over the past few years and why she disagreed with the ban of its recent radio ad campaign. have to make the most of what you have.” And Ann Summers has never been shy of doing just that. The company, which has an annual turnover of £150 million, seeks to provide escapism for the average woman through its parties and products, a characteristic that has the effect of driving women to its stores in difficult times. This form of distraction is something that Gold seeks to highlight in her marketing and the ‘fun’ image is one that continues to be important to the brand. “I think when times are a little difficult, people like to cheer themselves up,” she says. “Women will come to our parties and have a little escapism. They will come to our stores and treat themselves with a sexy little piece of lingerie or they will treat their partner to something. I think that’s partly what makes us unique.” But, the ‘sexy’ image that attracts many people to the brand can also act as a deterrent. The controversy which makes Ann Summers so popular has attracted censure, most recently in relation to a risqué radio advert that was banned by authorities for being overly lewd. The ad featured the sound of a woman’s screams, which rapidly turned to groans of pleasure. Though it could not be played on air, the press coverage Ann Summers received in response to the ban was widespread and the ad became a popular video on LINGERIE INSIGHT / DECEMBER 2010 / www.lingerieinsight.com You Tube, once again reflecting how well controversy can sell. While admitting the authorities’ decision did ironically work in the brand’s favour, Gold claims she never intended the advert to be banned and says the advert was only intended as a bit of ‘fun’. “I think we are quite good at realising – and have done for many years - controversy has played a big part in our success, in getting our name out there and making people understand what we are about, and getting people to talk about us,” she says. “We didn’t go into that campaign hoping it was going to be banned, of course. There is a lot of money that you spend on something like that and we wanted to get it right. But we don’t want to compromise who we are. And unfortunately the advertising authority that banned us, they tried to compromise who we are. We felt that the advert was acceptable and fun, but clearly there are some stuffy nosed... people out there that had a different view.” She adds: “If it means upsetting a couple of people, so that we can be fun and push those boundaries, then that is what Ann Summers is all about.” The advert ban is not the only challenge that Ann Summers has been forced to face over the past few years. Like many other businesses, it has been forced to make cuts in order INTERVIEW / ANN SUMMERS to remain competitive. While Gold claims the swimwear, introduced to Ann Summers stores earlier this year, has been performing well, she admits that in other areas the company has been forced to tighten its belt. “Obviously, we have made cuts,” she says, “but cuts that don’t affect us driving our sales. It is an ongoing thing and it could involve putting up posters, decorating our reception, just cutting back on the fat. When times are good, we all have a tendency to overindulge and, then, when times are not so good, you have got to be quite strict.” Gold refuses to let the savings affect the company’s ability to drive sales and has prioritised spending on research and product development. She has also taken advantage of the economic climate to open new stores. “We have not held back in that area,” Gold explains, “because, obviously, equally in these times there is opportunity.” And new stores need promotion. Gold believes that this is important to be competitive and to demonstrate to the consumer that the product provides value for money. However, she is also aware that this can be taken too far and that a brand can appear desperate if it continually slashes prices. One way of avoiding this, according to Gold, is by not always responding to what others are doing on the high street. “If you try to do what your competition is doing to the tee, you can find it affects your margins,” she says. “We often don’t necessarily take the lead on the high street when it comes to sales or going into early sales. I think you have to be true to yourself and what is right for your business, and not necessarily respond to what everybody else is doing.” It has been a struggle for Gold throughout her life to be unique. With West Ham chairman and multimillionaire David Gold as a father, it has not always been easy for the Ann Summers chief executive to be taken on her own merit. Whilst growing up with money and a famous dad 2 might not be considered by many to be a hardship, Gold claims that it presented its own range of obstacles to overcome. “At the time I probably though it was a negative,” she says, “because he was very tough with me. He didn’t want to show nepotism. And all those barriers, they actually force you to get on with it and prove yourself even more. And, of course, he has been an amazing great role model and a great inspiration. I have been very lucky to have him as my mentor.” Gold has more than proven herself as an individual. To date, she has been voted the second Most Powerful Woman in Retail by Retail Week, one of the Most Inspirational Businesswomen in the UK by Barclays Bank, one of Britain’s Business Icons by Nat West Bank and one of Britain’s Top Businesswomen by publications including Cosmopolitan, Esquire, Woman, and Good Housekeeping. The Daily Mail also listed Jacqueline as one of Britain’s 100 Most Influential Women and she was made Business www.lingerieinsight.com / DECEMBER 2010 / LINGERIE INSIGHT 2 Sheer Delight bra by Ann Summers 19 ANN SUMMERS / INTERVIEW 3 “I would love to expand into the US, but the timing has to be right. That would be fantastic, absolutely fantastic. I can’t wait.” 3 Encore cami by Ann Summers 20 Communicator of the Year 2004 by the British Association of Communicators in Business. But, it has been a bittersweet year for the business woman, whose childhood ambition was to become a window dresser. Years of IVF treatment resulted in the birth of twins Alfie and Scarlett in 2009, but Alfie was born with a brain disorder and died after just eight months. A few months later, in May, 2010, Gold entered into marriage with long term partner and City trader Dan Cunningam. With the chaos taking place in her private life, it would not be surprising if she had let the business side of things slip. Gold admits that keeping both sides of her life in balance is not always easy. “One minute, you think you have got it just right and the next minute you are thinking ‘I am really stressed, I need to re-evaluate,’ she says. “But, unfortunately, that is what we do as women. Ask any woman with children and they will say they all their life juggling the balls and trying to be there for everybody, and it is sort of what we LINGERIE INSIGHT / DECEMBER 2010 / www.lingerieinsight.com do, but it is not a challenge that is ever going to go away.” It is a challenge that Gold intends to take up wholeheartedly. Gold wouldn’t describe herself as a feminist, claiming that ‘we perceive feminists as not being feminine,’ but she believes in equality and would never describe herself as ‘anti-men.’ Apparently, it is all about balance. “I think feminism for me is a bit old fashioned now,” she explains. “Times are changing. There are still not enough successful women in business and I think there are some areas of injustice, but I don’t think women want to be unfeminine anymore.” Gold is one of a growing number of successful and powerful women in the lingerie business. Other big names include Rigby & Peller owner June Kenton, Ultimo’s Michelle Mone and Coco de Mer founder Samantha Roddick. However, the Ann Summers boss does make clear that ‘if you are talking department stores, then they are all run by men.’ And, while a proponent for the female cause, Gold has no intention of letting her feelings about empowering women affect her business decisions. In 2011, she plans to continue innovating to stay ahead of the competition. She also hopes to expand in the upcoming years and is waiting for the optimum moment to take such a step. Eventually, Gold claims that she would love to take Ann Summers to the US, where she believes there is a big opportunity for the brand. “I would love to expand into the US, but the timing has to be right,” she says. “That would be fantastic, absolutely fantastic. I can’t wait. I think the opportunity is there now, but we are not willing to take big risks in new ventures until the economy starts to improve and I think it is more responsible to focus on ensuring that our core business is stable and doing well.” Gold finishes: “I want world domination. I am impatient, so I want this blooming recession to hurry up. Do you think Cameron is going to do that for us? He might need the help of some strong women, mightn’t he?”