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Game-Changing Tips, Better Mascaras
(And the Trend That Must End)
Skin Special
Winter
Wond
As temperatures nose-dive, so does your skin's moisture. Here's how
to fight back against the parched, flaky, itchy season. Byjoiene Edgar
E
very December, as sure as kids write
wish lists, beauty editors write
about dry skin. The stories all go
like this: Bone-chilling weather, arid
indoor heat, and hot showers strip
your skin, leaving it tight and scaly.
(Lizards, snakes, and alligators are
typically evoked here.) Slap on some cream and drag
your humidifier out of storage. Boom, done.
Dry skin may not be all alarming headlines, but
there are a few surprises. Did you know that sipping
bottled water to stay hydrated can backfire, leaving
your lips painfully chapped? And that no amount of
argan-oil conditioner can cure flakes on your scalp?
But there are some happy discoveries, too, like new
ingredients that quench skin, smart ways to maximize
your moisturizers, and a clever trick for hydrating
out-of-reach areas. Now go dust off that humidifier.
Where It All Begins
Remember the Sesame Street cartoon with a man crawling through
cacti, begging for "agua"1 That is precisely how we picture our skin
cells this time of year: thirsty and desperate. What's actually happening in the epidermis isn't as sweet, but it is pretty instructive.
1
2
3
Frigid weather, sweltering offices, harsh soaps, and long
showers are "the most common triggers for dry skin,"
says Joshua Zeichner, the director of cosmetic and clinical
research at Mount Sinai Medical Center in New York City.
They weaken the proteins that make up your skin cells and erode
the lipids, or fats, that glue them all together. Water sneaks out of
the cracks in your skin's barrier, and the drying process begins.
As a side effect of dehydration, "your natural exfoliating enzymes stop functioning optimally," says David Bank,
an assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Columbia
University/Presbyterian Hospital. Dead cells cling to you
rather than shedding off, imperceptibly, as they do when skin is
healthy. The pileup absorbs light instead of reflecting it.
The tiny gaps in the barrier that let moisture out also
grant entry to stinging irritants—like the fragrance in
your hand cream—which fire up nerve fibers in the skin and
signal immune cells to release histamine, making you itch
like mad. A compromised barrier also lets in pollutants and free
radicals, which can accelerate signs of aging.
118
You're Drying Out
Your Skin. Stop It!
The peskiest little things that sap moisture:
Sipping water from a bottle.
"As the water molecules left on lips' surface
evaporate, they draw out moisture from
within the skin," Bank explains. Seal lips with
petroleum jelly or drink from a straw.
Wearing scratchy fabrics.
Wool and synthetic fibers rubbing against you
can dry out and irritate sensitive skin, says
Jeannette Graf, an assistant clinical professor of
dermatology at Mount Sinai Medical Center.
Wear a layer of soft cotton underneath.
Skipping sunscreen.
"Even in winter, UV rays can interfere with
skin-barrier function, reduce ceramide
levels, and prevent skin from holding onto
moisture," says Zeichner. Use a lotion
with SPF 30 or higher every morning and carry
a sunscreen powder, such as Colorescience
Pro Very Water Resistant Powder Sun Protection
SPF 50, for touch-ups.
Removing a gel manicure.
Dissolving one is incredibly drying, according to
Heidi Waldorf, an associate clinical professor
of dermatology at Mount Sinai Medical Center.
Slather on hand cream pre- and post-manicure.
Before hitting the
slopes, apply
sunscreen to the
face, ears, and
other exposed skin.
High-SPF broadspectrum ones
labeled "sport" are
generally sweat
resistant and rub
in easily.
Stock Up
The best creams to stash here, there, and everywhere.
In the Shower:
At the Office:
"Now's the time to
use the richest stuff
possible," says
Graf. For the face, we
like Origins A Perfect
World Age-Defense
Moisturizer With White
Tea SPF 25; for the
body, Jergens Crema
Deep-Conditioning
Shea Butter With
Oatmeal is a decadent,
easy-to-spread nutbutter blend.
Choose a hand cream
with siliconesand
humectants that
coats skin without
leaving it slick, drippy,
or sticky. Waldorf
swears by Derma
Topix Intensive Hand
Cream: "I use it three
times a day in the
winter, and my hands
don't get dry, even
though I'm washing
them repeatedly."
Skin Special
Problem
Solvers
Dermatologists will always love their
ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
But some are now equally smitten
with a new pack of hydrators.
I
Glyceryl glucoside: Scientists at the company behind
Eucerin and Nivea used a
supersized version of the humectant glycerin, explains Zeichner.
Like the original, glyceryl glucoside
pulls moisture from the atmosphere
into the deeper layers of the skin,
but it also enhances the skin's water channels "to increase water flow
between cells and boost hydration."
Find it in Eucerin Professional Repair
Extremely Dry Skin Lotion and Nivea
Express Hydration Daily Lotion.
Selaginella lepidophylla: An
extract that's both a humectant and an antioxidant, it
"constantly renews the skin,
making cells more cohesive to prevent
water from escaping," says cosmetic
chemist Ni'Kita Wilson. Try Nuxe Day
Anti-Aging Re-Densifying Cream.
2
3
Coconut extract: Because
this has fats that are similar to
those in the skin's barrier, it
can replace the stuff that's so
easily stripped away in winter. "Other
natural butters and oils do this, too,
but coconut delivers lasting moisture without being heavy or greasy,"
says Wilson. Try VMV Hypoallergenics Essence Hand + Body Smoother.
4
Niacinamide: "It strengthens the skin's outer layer
to prevent water loss and
speeds up cell turnover,"
says cosmetic chemist Jim Hammer.
According to Zeichner, it also revs
up production of the skin's own free
fatty acids and cholesterol—"fats that
keep the barrier intact." Cetaphil
Restoraderm Skin Restoring Moisturizer blends niacinamide with ceramides and shea butter; Olay Regenerist
Micro-Sculpting Cream combines the
ingredient with peptides and glycerin.
120
Woolly fabrics can
irritate sensitive
skin; wearing a layer
of soft cotton
underneath helps.
Always smooth lotion on damp
skin. You've heard it before, but
did you know you have a threeminute window for best results?
Applying Yourself
A few key moves can truly help maximize your moisturizer.
• CLEAR AWAY DEAD SKIN CELLS,
which keep moisturizer from sinking
in. Buff your face gently twice a week
with a jojoba-bead scrub, like Gamier
The Expert Exfoliator, or a mild exfoliant with fruit enzymes (we like Olay
Fresh Effects Bead Me Up Exfoliating
Cleanser).
• ALWAYS SMOOTH LOTION ON
DAMP SKIN. You've heard it before,
but did you know you have a threeminute window for best results? Wait
any longer and "moisture starts to disappear from skin before you can lock
it in," says Graf.
• MOISTURIZING WITH THE BATHROOM DOOR CLOSED maintains the
humidity. "Any humectants in your
cream can help pull that moisture into
your skin," says Zeichner.
• SPRAYS REACH WHERE HANDS
CAN'T. Ulla Rasche, the spa director
at the Four Seasons resort in Jackson
Hole, Wyoming, recommends pouring a light oil, like rice bran, into a
spray bottle made for cooking oil. "It
creates a fine mist and works far better than any of those back-scratcherlike applicators at the drugstore," she
says. Use it while still in the shower—
with the water off, just before stepping out—so you can reduce the slip
factor. Or try a continuous-spray
lotion, like Vaseline Spray & Go Moisturizer Total Moisture, which spritzes
even while upside down.
o
o
Skin Special
Chapped Off
Color Guard
Dryness can strike anyone, but while some skin tones turn dull and ashy when moisturestarved, others get exquisitely sensitive. Here, remedies for skin of every color.
Black, Hispanic, South Asian, and
Middle Eastern skin:
Ashiness and/or
Dark Marks
Black skin has lower levels of ceramides than white skin, and the dead
cells in its uppermost layer don't slough
off as quickly, according to Susan
Taylor, a Philadelphia dermatologist.
On top of that, "white scales create a
gray, ashy appearance on a dark complexion," says Vivian Bucay, a clinical
assistant professor at the University
of Texas Health Science Center in
San Antonio. Dryness-related irritation and scratching can also stir up
pigment, leaving dark marks on dark
skin. This goes for Hispanic, South
Asian, and Middle Eastern women, too.
THE FIX: Lotions with urea or lactic
acid hydrate and exfoliate at once to
eliminate ashiness. (Both are found
in Eucerin Intensive Repair Very Dry
Skin Lotion. Vaseline Intensive Rescue
Repairing Lotion contains urea, while
AmLactin Moisturizing Body Lotion
has lactic acid.) The ingredients "break
down some of the protein in skin,
allowing water to bind with the cells,"
says Zoe Draelos, a consulting professor of dermatology at Duke University.
Lactic acid has also been found to
increase ceramides in the skin.
Asian skin:
Sensitivity
Asian skin has the weakest barrier,
meaning ingredients can penetrate
more deeply, causing stinging and
irritation, says Jessica Wu, an assistant
clinical professor of dermatology at the
University of Southern California Keck
School of Medicine. (Fragrance, alcohol, and acids are especially irksome.)
Asian skin also has lower levels of
humectants than white and black skin.
THE FIX: Mild products that are
rich in ceramides, like Elizabeth
Arden Ceramide Purifying Cream
Cleanser and DHC Ceramide Milk,
can strengthen skin's flimsy barrier. Avoid overusing anything with
glycolic or salicylic acids, which can
burn, and toners with alcohol, which
strip away protective oils and lipids.
White skin:
KGQflGSS
When fair skin gets raw and chapped,
it turns red from inflammation.
THE FIX: Go for heavy-duty healing
creams with redness-quelling ingredients, like licorice and feverfew.
We like Aveeno Ultra-Calming Daily
Moisturizer SPF 15 (with feverfew)
and First Aid Beauty Daily Face Cream
(with both ingredients).
Years ago. Vaseline ran a
commercial with a woman
scratching the word "dry" on her
hand with a long, oval-shaped
nail. (YouTube it.) A drop of
golden moisturizer transforms her
parchment-like skin in seconds.
In reality, cream isn't always
enough. "Red, inflamed, itchy skin
may need a short course of
1 percent hydrocortisone cream
to help speed healing," says
Bucay. Top it with a thick ointment
to lock in moisture. "Aquaphor
is the ultimate fix," says Bank. "It
even works for acne patients on
Accutane—and they have the
most extreme cases of dry lips." If
skin doesn't improve within a
week, see a dermatologist to rule
out allergies, eczema, and
more serious conditions. "A lot of
women mistake precancerous
lesions for persistent chapping,"
notes Waldorf.
Cracking Up
The corners of the mouth crack
when saliva gets trapped
there. "The digestive enzymes in
saliva break down the skin,"
says Bank. Prescription ointments,
like Alcortin and Mycolog, can
tackle both the infection and
the irritation. If you can't get to a
doctor, layer a 1 percent
hydrocortisone cream with a
drugstore antifungal (like Lotrimin)
and petroleum jelly on the
area twice a day for three days.
Soothe Your Scalp
The Best Humidifier
Choosing a humidifier calls for datadriven, left-brain thinking: Consumer
Reports territory. John McAloon, a
team project leader at the magazine,
tested 29 to find the best one.
For single rooms or small apartments,
a tabletop machine is ideal.
The Crane Penguin EE-865 scored
highest among tabletop humidifiers:
At only $40, the ultrasonic model
was quiet, energy efficient, sturdy,
and low maintenance. -LEXI NOVAK
122 Allure-December 2013
Are we the only ones who've been shrugging off flakes, figuring they're just a result of
dry scalp and wondering how our arsenal of hydrating hair products could
possibly fail us? Here's our answer: "If your scalp is scaly and itchy, that's generally
dandruff, not dry scalp," says Bank, adding that it usually happens when an
overgrowth of yeast aggravates and inflames the scalp, causing cells to shed at warp
speed. True dry scalp—marked by a tight feeling and powdery appearance, but
no discernible flakes—is surprisingly rare, since our hair traps moisture on or near the
scalp, says James Schwartz, a scientist for Procter & Gamble. "Most people who
say they have dry scalp really have dandruff—sometimes, though, just a mild case," he
adds. Switching to a flake-fighting formula should clear up run-of-the-mill dandruff
in a couple of weeks. (Clear Scalp Hair & Beauty Therapy Complete Care Nourishing
Anti-Dandruff Shampoo and Head & Shoulders contain yeast-targeting zinc pyrithione;
Nizoral relies on the antifungal ingredient ketoconazole.) Those with thicker,
more stubborn scales may need to start by washing with an exfoliating shampoo
containing salicylic acid (like Neutrogena T/Sal Therapeutic Shampoo), or see
a dermatologist for a prescription steroid scalp treatment "to break up the scales and
decrease redness and inflammation," says Dina Elrashidy, a dermatologist in Chicago.
s
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Allure Beauty Blogger of the Year
Model
Glow
Aside from bombshell hair,
allure
Beauty
Blogger
Awards
rhinestone lingerie, and enormous wings,
there's one thing you can count on at
the Victoria's Secret fashion show: shimmer.
Here's how to make yours Adriana-esque.
• Eyes: After the
usual shimmery
shadow on your
brow bone
and at the inner corner, rim
your waterline with a
sparkly liner that matches
your eye color. (I like NYX
Cosmetics Slide On Pencil.)
• Cheeks: Blend creamy
highlighter on the tops of
your cheekbones; the formula
should be slightly shimmery,
never glittery. (Try Giorgio
Armani Fluid Sheer.) If you
have wrinkles or large pores,
use a dewy skin balm
instead (like It Cosmetics Hello
Light Illuminator), which
also softens imperfections.
• Lips: After you apply your
lip color, dab a light-reflecting
gloss (like Givenchy Gelee
d'Interclit in Sparkling Petal)
in the middle of your bottom
lip and below the bow of
your top lip to make them
look pouty.
• Body: Apply a shimmery
body oil down the center of
your thighs and shins. I
love Victoria's Secret Beach A
Sexy Instant Bronzing
Shimmer Dry Oil because you
can spray it on and it smells
unbelievable. Make sure
to blend it completely in a
straight line or your legs will
look splotchy. Blot the rest on
vour collarbones. —CARA BROOK
allure.com:
Cara Brook beat out hundreds to be crowned Allure's Beauty Blogger
of the Year. Learn more of her tricks at allure.com/go/blogger-awards.
Clear as Day
Most of us go to battle with our acne at night,
slapping on spot creams and bleaching our pillowcases in the process. But research shows that the
best time to use most acne treatments may be during the day. That's because your skin goes through
cycles, and "now that we know more about them,
we know that sebum production spikes during the
day and decreases significantly at night, making
acne treatments that target oil potentially less
effective at night,"says Joshua Zeichner, the director of cosmetic and clinical research at Mount Sinai
Medical Center in New York City. He recommends
applying a product with both benzoyl peroxide
and beta hydroxy acids, like La Roche-Posay
EffaclarDuo, over your entireface each morning—
under your sunscreen, of course—to shrink
existing pimples and whisk away oil. (You can
also use it as a spot treatment.) At night, simply
wash your face with a basic cleanser (exfoliate
with a salicylic acid cleanser once a week), apply
a thin layer of oil-free moisturizer, and walk
away from the mirror. Your skin (and your pillowcases) will thank you.
—ELIZABETH SIEGEL
68 Allure-December2013
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Be Dazzled
You'd think some of the major beauty companies had been
hijacked by six-year-olds, given the shiny packaging of two new
limited-edition lip colors. Not shiny as in glossy. Shiny as in sparkly
enough to make My Little Pony squint. And all that glitz doesn't
come cheap. Mini jars of Vaseline Lip Therapy Rosy Lips (1),
bejeweled from cap to bottom in pink and blue crystals, cost $45.
And Lancome's Rouge Etincelle (2), in a gorgeous Swarovskicrystal-encrusted tube, $75, is a fiery red lipstick and a glittery new
toy in one. Tuck them in someone else's stocking—or your
own. Our (remarkably shiny) lips are sealed. —DANIELLE PERGAMENT