Italian Garden Tour with garden designer and author, Marjorie Harris
Transcription
Italian Garden Tour with garden designer and author, Marjorie Harris
Italian Garden Tour with garden designer and author, Marjorie Harris September 26 to October 9, 2012 © M.K. Hoffman "To write and to garden are the two passions of my life. The garden is beyond being a hobby or a pastime. It is a library, it is a teacher, and to be in the garden is to be part of something so wonderful and beyond all our control that we cannot help but learn something about nature every time we hit the dirt. We are the stewards of this planet and by making good gardens and practicing good garden techniques we can leave it just a little better than we found it." Marjorie Harris's Website HIGHLIGHTS 7 Marjorie Harris mini presentations Personal critique by Marjorie Harris regarding your own garden (bring your photos) Visit 14 outstanding gardens, both public and exclusively private, often with the owner or head gardener as guide Castello Ruspoli garden music festival La Patraia lunch Castello Argiano wine tasting & reception Welcome dinner in Lucca featuring local cuisine Farewell dinner in Frascati English speaking escort/guide throughout 13 nights superior accommodation ITINERARY Day 1 – Lucca – Villa Pfanner Our well-informed guide is available to accompany us on a stroll around this beautiful, wealthy little Tuscan city. The Renaissance-era city walls are intact and enclose some of Italy’s finest medieval and Renaissance architecture. We will visit the gardens at Villa Pfanner and later enjoy a superb dinner of local flavours. Overnight at Hotel San Lucca Palace © Villa Massei Day 2 – Lucca – Villa Massei A visit to Villa Massei--often called a “personal paradise on earth”—will include visiting with the garden designer and owner to learn about how this elegant compact garden has evolved. It’s a dramatic change from the original overgrown Renaissance hunting lodge. Now it is a sensuous example of ancient meeting modern, featuring a 16th century grotto, fountains, terracing and intimate rooms full of architectural and horticultural delights. Lucca is every foodie’s dream. On our return to Lucca, you can enjoy a relaxing lunch at leisure and we’ll provide a list of really delicious trattorias. Then enjoy some free time exploring the delightful shops; walking the perimeter wall of the old city or visit the Botanical garden. Overnight at Hotel San Lucca Palace Day 3 – Villa Reale Cosimo and Villa Medici Fiesole and Cortona No garden tour of Tuscany is complete without visiting gardens of the infamous Medici family. Our guide will lead us through the history and splendour of two landmark villa gardens displaying the opulence of the family and the era. These two outstanding gardens represent the achievements of several generations of the Cosimo Medici family. At Castello, secretive Cosimo I de Medici, both a hunter and a patron of the arts, produced a garden with terraces, sculpture and medieval walls. Then we move along to stand on the salon terraces at Villa Medici Fiesole soaking in the magnificent panoramic views and imagining the concerts hosted by Cosimo’s grandson, Lorenzo, in these spectacular gardens. A quiet lunch in the historic Etruscan village of Fiesole, overlooking Florence, will be the perfect place to contemplate our afternoon travel through the rolling hills of Chianti. Who could not look forward to staying in Cortona. Yes, the very same Cortona that was the setting for the filming of “Under the Tuscan Sun”! You too will have a chance to see shutters being thrown open to welcome the morning sun, watch merchants setting up in the piazza or enjoy a morning stroll. While sipping a cappuccino in the piazza all the charm and a little of the history of this 3000-year-old gem will lead your way to exploring the town in the afternoon and evening. Overnight at Hotel San Michele, Cortona Day 4 – Arezzo Giardino Reinhardt ©Reinhardt Park & Garden Like Lucca, Arezzo is both charming and dazzling. What a splendid place to enjoy the enticing aromas, regional flavours, vignettes and sounds of a weekly Saturday market. As always we will give you our recommendations for exploring the safe, glamorous and utterly captivating hilltop town center. Even the non-shoppers won’t want to leave empty handed. Our guide will help us enjoy the colourful layers of stone, brick and stucco Romanesque and Renaissance architecture. Don’t be fooled by the unassuming exterior of San Francisco Basilica…inside you will find Piero della Francesca’s magnificent fresco “Legend of the True Cross”. We’ll be talking a great deal about ancient meeting modern on this tour. Thomas and Martina Reinhardt have created one of the finest modern gardens in Italy--just south of ancient Cortona. Their passion for collecting plants, unusual garden design and vistas reveal themselves as you meander along the narrow paths of fragrant herbaceous borders, ancient olive groves, and experiments with a bold subtropical paradise while overlooking the views of Lake Trasimeno, the largest lake in Central Italy. Here is a garden where you will truly find unforgettable plantings. Overnight at Hotel San Michele, Cortona Day 5 – The Hills of Chianti Across rolling hills and densely wooded forests, we will have vista after vista of the hills of Chianti leading up to the enchanting La Petraia estate, located in the very heart of Tuscany's oldest wine regions. The villa affords breathtaking views of the famous Gallo Nero vineyards and of Siena more than 35 kilometers to the south as well as the sweeping Valley of the Arno River and the Casentino Mountains to the north. Marco, the farm’s engaging resident agronomist will share the story of how La Petraia evolved from a 900 year-old-ruin to a luxury organic and biodynamic agriturismo that is “a self-sustaining kingdom and a cook’s dream.” We will be treated to a spectacular lunch with estate owner, chef and cookbook author, Susan McKenna Grant. She will delight us with a sumptuous feast featuring her exceptional “Field to Table” fine cuisine, in this magnificent rural setting. © La Petraia Overnight at Relais Il Chiostro di Pienza Day 6 – Pienza and Il Bosco Ragnaia It’s impossible to ever tire of a quiet morning stroll in the spectacular hilltop town of Pienza. Looking out over the walls of this UNESCO world heritage site to the glorious hills, fields, and cypresses of the historic Val D’Orcia is a dazzling experience. See firsthand why Pienza is often described as “the utopian city” for its balanced relationship between man and nature. Slightly northwest of Pienza, garden designer and artist, Sheppard Craige has used the same principles to create unique magic and mystery at Il Bosco Ragnaia. Among the trees his sculptural pieces seem as natural as the plants and landscape itself. In the distance we will likely see Sheppard with his spade and wheelbarrow ready to address our curiosity. © M.K..Hoffman With lots to talk about after our visit at Il Bosco della Ragnaia, town map and restaurant recommendations in hand, we will be ready for a refreshing lunch at leisure in Montalcino, home of world-famous Brunello wine. Most quarters of the town can be explored on foot since the beautiful streets here are not very crowded. The Centro Storico is the historical center of Montalcino and one of the most interesting places to visit in the town. Like most places in Italy, the historical center is a maze of narrow streets and alleys that lead to rows of old houses stacked against one another, old villas and mansions and small shops and ancient churches. The imposing fortress of Montalcino with one of many excellent wine tasting centres, is one of the most visited sites in the town. Built in 1361 as part of the ancient walls, it is the highest point in Montalcino. Will you venture to climb to the top of the tower for the outstanding panoramic photos? Overnight at Relais Il Chiostro di Pienza Day 7 – Pienza and Castello Argiano Pienza is also famous for its numerous Pecorino cheese shops and cafes serving wild boar sandwiches. Choose between a guided tour of Pienza or some free time to rest and explore the safe, charming and vehicle-free squares and side streets. This is one time to have a very light lunch—the afternoon wine tasting reception at Sesti is going to be substantial. But before we get there, we’ll visit one of the finest Romanesque churches in all of Italy. The beautiful Abbeye Sant’Antimo is still used daily for worship by the monks in the nearby buildings. With any luck, we will hear one of their serene prayer chants before leaving for a fabulous visit at a very secluded vineyard and olive oil estate. At Castello Di Argiano, Marjorie’s friends Giuseppe, Sarah and their daughter Elisa have invited us for a wine tasting reception set in Sarah’s magnificent garden. With the slopes of Mount Amiata on the horizon as a backdrop Elisa’s captivating stories will gently teach us about some of the magic behind the production of their award winning vintages. © M.K. Hoffman Overnight at Relais Il Chiostro di Pienza Day 8 – Montapluciano and La Foce The biggest, highest and some say, most stupendous southern Tuscan town is Montepulciano. Complete with a map, our list of recommendations and the knowledgeable enthusiasm of our guide, we’ll explore the labyrinthine medieval alleyways and immerse ourselves in its exquisite art, outstanding food, Renaissance churches, and the famous Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Get rested up with a glass of Vino Nobile with lunch at one of the many superb restaurants before our afternoon visit at one of Italy’s most famous gardens, La Foce. This exquisite private garden is not an easy one to visit. The timing has to be right and we have managed to do just that! This enchanting, twentieth-century garden was designed by Cecil Pinsent. Designed and built for author and historian Iris Origo, the garden is a remarkable example of Pinsent’s ability to combine Italian baroque features with the English Arts and Crafts style. When we return to Pienza there’s plenty of time to enjoy a dinner in one of the many little restaurants serving excellent local cuisine. Overnight at Relais Il Chiostro di Pienza Day 9 – Orvieto Imagine an elegant hilltop town sitting on top of Etruscan and Medieval tunnels and caves. Place this town about halfway between Florence and Rome and you will be in Orvieto. Our personal guide will lead us through the stately heart of a majestic hill town. We will discover why such a little town is known for its wine, ceramics, and impressive Duomo. There will be time to tour, lunch and explore before continuing our southern journey. Our next stop is Civita Castellana in Lazio, a perfect base for the exciting upcoming garden visits. © M.K. Hoffman Overnight at Relais Falisco in Civita Castellana Day 10 – Viterbo and Villa Lante After such a full day of travel, a relaxed departure will be welcomed. We slow down the pace just a bit by visiting the quiet Papal town of Viterbo where a short guided tour will introduce us to most of the significant buildings and architecture in the walled city centre. This sets the stage for a short drive to the spectacular Villa Lante. Designed in the Mannerist phase of the Italian renaissance it is a superb example of perfect proportions, outdoor living, rich detail, grottos and water features, including a stone water table for al fresco dining! © M.K. Hoffman Overnight at Relais Falisco in Civita Castellana Day 11 – Palazzo Farnese and Castello Ruspoli After a relatively late departure, we’ll visit the dramatically located Palazzo Farnese in the town of Caprarola. It is a small Renaisance garden of formal and informal surprises. This little adventure will be followed by a wonderful afternoon at Castello Ruspoli, where the Countess of Ruspoli has honoured us with an invitation to the annual Prince Fransceso Maria Ruspoli Baroque music festival being held in the magnificent setting of the castle’s 17th century parterre garden. She has added a personal touch by arranging our lunch of local cuisine at a family trattoria in the village and then her own personal and enchanting tour of her home—the castle. © M.K. Hoffman Overnight at Relais Falisco in Civita Castellana Day 12 – Villa D’Este and Frascati From a musical feast to a visual feast—the masterpiece of the Italian Garden and recently restored Villa D’Este in Tivoli. Many of the gardens we have seen on our tour have been influenced by this incredible UNESCO world heritage site with its many Mannerist and Baroque fountains, nymphs, grottoes, terraces and waterfalls and eccentric plays of water engineered to entertain. Our guide will help make the feast complete so that we can imagine the colours, scents and sounds of period. © Wikipedia After a quick lunch enroute, we proceed south of Rome to the serene and compact city of Frascati, famous for its good food and signature white wine. For centuries Frascati has been a destination of choice for well-heeled Romans wanting to escape the heat and bustle of Rome. Enjoy some free time to rest and explore or, with the assistance of our guide, take an hour to visit the majestic, Baroque style Villa Aldobrandini garden. Or simply view it from the town square while enjoying an icy glass of Frascati. As a perfect conclusion to our day we gather in a fabulous local restaurant to say good bye to superb eating and new friends. Overnight at Holel Flora, Frascati Day 13 – Velletri and Ninfa After a leisurely departure we head further south to the ancient Roman town of Velletri. Amphitheatre then enjoy a lunch at leisure before a short drive to Ninfa. Here we’ll have time to explore the Roman Some may say that we’ve saved the best for last. The New York Times has called today’s garden the “most beautiful garden in the world.” The garden of Ninfa is unlike anything else on the tour and certainly not like anything you’ll ever see again. Built upon the ruins of the ancient village of Ninfa, the garden was neglected for centuries. In the early 1900’s, descendants of the original family began making a picturesque botanical collection using the ruins to frame the plantings. The head gardener will be our guide as we stroll the ancient avenues making it clear why the meandering streams were dedicated to nymphs during Roman times. What better place than the beautiful Frascati for our final evening with dinner at leisure in one of the many excellent restaurants. © M.K. Hoffman Overnight at Hotel Flora, Frascati Day 14 – End of Tour Transfer from our hotel to Fiumicino airport, Rome for flight departures. Price per person: Double occupancy CAD $ 4989 Single supplement CAD $ 689 Included: 7 mini presentations by Marjorie Harris Personal critique by Marjorie Harris regarding your own garden (bring your photos) Visit 14 outstanding gardens, both public and exclusively private, often with the owner or head gardener as guide Air conditioned luxury coach with private driver Castello Ruspoli garden music festival La Patraia lunch Castello Argiano wine tasting & reception Welcome dinner in Lucca Farewell dinner in Frascati Garden admission fees English speaking escort/guide throughout Garden and town tours as indicated 13 nights superior accommodation 13 breakfasts, 2 dinners, 2 lunches Porterage Recommendations for restaurants and sites of interest End of tour transfer from hotel to Fiumicino airport Not Included: Flights Travel/medical insurance Entrance fees to museums, galleries and other venues not expressly indicated in the itinerary Lunches and dinners except as indicated in inclusions Personal expenses Fees for pre/post tour options Flights: Travel Specifics will be pleased to assist you with booking flights at the best possible rates or with your reward points. Pre or Post Tour Options Travel Specifics would be pleased to assist you in extending your vacation for a few days before or after our tour. You might like to begin the tour with several days in Florence or perhaps have us plan a full day train and boat tour of Cinque Terre from your base in Lucca. Or, ending the tour with some time in Rome may be the perfect conclusion to our garden tour. We can plan your itinerary and organize your hotel and any necessary transportation. Marjorie is one of Canada’s leading garden writers. She has been the gardening columnist for ‘The Globe and Mail” since 1990, makes speeches across the country, was Editor-at-Large of ‘Gardening Life’ magazine for 12 years and hosts tours to gardens in wonderful places, such as Italy, France and England. She has written 15 gardening books and has a plant consulting business in Toronto. TravelSpecifics.com 519 823 5849 or toll free 1 800 823 5849 www.travelspecifics.com [email protected]