Innovation and the Organic Textile Processing

‘Innovation and the Organic Textile Processing’
Amsterdam Fashion Institute 2007-2008
Final Thesis by: Banu Kent, IFM 208893
Thesis Coaches: Ligia Hera &Jan de Vries
Table of Contents
1. Introduction
3
2. Organic and Sustainability: Defined
4
3. Problem definition, research questions and research plan
5
4. An Introduction to the Organic Textile Processing
6
4.1.
4.2.
4.3.
4.4.
4.5.
Alternative Fibers (cotton, hemp, linen, bamboo, etc.)
The Supply Chain
4.2.1. Environmental Impact
4.2.2. Treating People Fairly
4.2.3. Socially Responsible Institutions and Organizations
Finishing Processes
Flexibility to React to Demand Growth
Limitations of The Organic Textile Industry
5. Market Research of The Organic Textile Industry
5.1.
5.2.
The International Organic Textile Market
5.1.1. Europe
Current and Future Trends
5.2.1. Fast Fashion
5.2.2. Slow Fashion
5.2.3. Bespoke and Customized Clothes
5.2.4. Craft and Mass Production
5.2.5. Techno- Eco: Future Visions
6. Today’s Market Situation
7
9
9
10
13
16
16
16
17
17
17
19
19
20
20
21
22
22
Supply-side of the organic market:
6.1. Socially Responsible Business Behavior
6.1.1. The Role of the Fashion Designer
6.1.2. The Role of the Fashion Buyer
6.2. Problem Definition For The Business
6.3. Demanding Transparency
6.4. Eco- Labeling
6.5. Interviews with Market Insiders
24
24
24
25
28
28
28
30
Demand-side of the organic market:
6.6. Consumer Role
6.7. Types of Buying Behavior
6.8. Factors Influencing Buying Behavior
6.9. Customer Survey: Voices from the market
32
32
32
33
35
7. How Can Companies Drive Innovation: Advisory Report
7.1.
7.2.
7.3.
By using current market trends
By creating new solutions
How to leave the Eco-niche?
8. References
36
37
38
39
41
Appendices
Appendix 1- ILO Structure
Appendix 2- Focus Group Discussion
Appendix 3- Interviews
Appendix 4- Customer Survey
2
1.
Introduction
Only in the last few years a new form of fashion started to merge in the market,
‘Organic and Sustainable Fashion’. The reason for this push is a need to change
towards the environment and culture. Since a couple of years the media is
boomed with unethical scandals of big and well known clothing brands, telling
their true stories behind their label. On the other hand, films like ‘An Inconvenient
Truth’ by Al Gore and ‘The Day After Tomorrow’ by Roland Emmerich attracted
the attention of a larger group of people towards environmental problems. The
Textile Industry plays a big role in environmental and cultural problems.
Everyday, more and more people starts to realize the big impact they cause by
their shopping habits and lifestyles. The high pressure towards cheaper prices in
the fashion industry leads to unfair working conditions in the developing
countries. On the other hand, the shopping philosophy ‘cradle-to-grave’1 is one of
the main reasons of the decline of the natural resources.
Recently, there has been a growing awareness towards organic and sustainable
garments. As a result of this, large companies are starting to introduce Ecocollections and many other small designers and brands are starting to produce
only organic and sustainable garments. Nowadays, being an ecoist is a trend, but
this is only the beginning of a changing retailing, producing and consuming
environment. The organic textile industry is very new when compared to other
fields of fashion; therefore innovation is the most important tool for the
continuation of this industry. Without innovation the eco fashion industry won’t be
able to develop and therefore fail before reaching its targets. There are already
some steps taken in this industry but in order to grow and develop, innovation is
necessary.
The question of how companies can drive innovation in order to take next steps
in organic processing and how can a larger consumer group be reached will be
discussed throughout this report.
1
‘Cradle to Cradle: Remaking the Way We Make Things’ by William McDonough & Michael Braungart
North Point Press, 2002.
3
2.
Organic and Sustainability: Defined
What does organic and sustainability mean in the textile and apparel industry?
Organic, is one of the most overused words in English. In the scientific meaning,
organic can be a biological or chemical term. In Biology, it means anything that is
living or has once lived. In Chemistry, an organic compound forms out of carbon
atoms.
The textile industry has adopted this word and gave a new meaning; which is
totally different than its scientific meanings. The definition of what makes a
product ‘organic’ evolved over time and involved several organizations.
In 2002, after many years of confusion regarding the meaning of ‘organic’
garments, fiber producers, industry professionals, representatives from various
organizations and certifiers came together to discuss the need for an
international organic textile standard. The result of the meeting is the Global
Organic Textile Standard (GOTS). The GOTS Standards defines the
requirements for organic harvesting of raw materials, processing of the fiber,
manufacturing, packaging, labeling, exporting, importing and distributing of
products made from natural fibers. The GOTS clearly outlines the chemicals and
materials that can not be used in the various processing stages of the organic
end product.
Sustainability and organic textile products are similar to each other in the way
they both emphasize environmental awareness; the only difference lays in the
approach. One of the most distinctive differences is that sustainable products,
such as yarns, are manufactured from reusable or recycled materials, which are
not always derived from organic materials.
Nowadays, sustainability is not only used to describe a product but also many
companies are implementing ‘sustainable business practices’.
Sustainable business practices include using environmental friendly packaging,
reducing manufacturing and operational waste and pollution, improving the
working conditions for workers, is involved in fair trade, moving towards the use
of renewable energy, improving shipping and transportation efficiencies and
designing sustainability into the products and services that are sold to the
consumers.
4
3.
Problem definition, Research Questions and Research Plan
Problem Definition:
There is a growing demand towards organic and sustainable garments. This
awareness started with consumers wanting to know where their clothing comes
from and what kind of ingredients there has been used in order to produce the
final product. The demand from consumers caused companies to re-structure
their organization and offer eco-collections. Although, there is a considerable
demand towards organic and sustainable products; the decision making process
is highly overshadowed by the actual price of the product. When it comes to
consumers, the price of the product is far more important than where and under
which circumstances it’s been produced.
Is there a possibility to change this decision making process and make eco
products more desirable and worth investing money? On the other hand, what
can companies do in order to perform a more sustainable and ethical business
practice?
Research Questions:
The above explained problem leads to this main research question:
‘How can companies drive innovation in order to take next steps in organic textile
processing?’
In order to define this main question and limit the research, five sub-questions
were asked:
- What is the organic textile industry and what kind of organizations are
involved in this process?
- What is today’s situation in the organic textile industry and what are the
related market trends?
- How can companies contribute in the socially responsible business
behavior? Why is this important?
- How does the consumer play a role when it comes down to socially
responsible buying behavior?
- What kind of strategies can be followed in order to reach a larger organic
buyer group and increase sales of organic garments?
Plan of Research:
This study has been prepared by in-depth literature research, addressing
institutions working in this field, joining several related conferences and
exhibitions, making a survey and interviewing experienced and trusted business
people who are in the organic and sustainable textile industry.
The study begins with an overview of the organic textile industry which includes
information on alternative organic fibers, co-operative socially responsible
5
organizations and main limitations on this topic. The second chapter follows with
an outline of the European market research on organic and sustainable textiles
and current trends. This part leads to the third chapter where socially responsible
business behavior is discussed closely. Two interviews and a survey were added
in order to support and give new ideas to the study. The conclusion is written in
the form of an advisory report to companies who are willing to drive innovation in
the organic textile industry.
4.
An Introduction to Organic Textile Processing
‘Each year, 25% of all insecticides are used for conventional grown cotton. Fiber
producers, mainly cotton growers, use approximately $2.6 billion worth of
pesticides annually, most of them toxic. Five of the top nine pesticides used on
cotton (cyanide. Dicofol, naled, propargite, and trifluralin) are known cancer
causing chemicals.’ 2
The above mentioned facts show only a small part of a very big industry.
However, we have the force to change these results. If we choose products that
are organic, fair trade and lower impact, farmers get higher incomes and are no
longer exposed to dangerous chemicals. These products are also fairly traded
and the processing system follows environmental standards, which means
workers will get better working conditions, higher wages and will be less exposed
to dangerous processes and chemicals. On the other hand, organic production
systems replenish and maintain soil fertility and reduce the use of toxic and
persistent pesticides and fertilizers.
Strong market conditions are able to create opportunities to expand the global
organic cotton fiber supply in a sustainable way and create opportunities for
developing countries producing organic cotton. A growing market will also create
opportunities to increase the range of organic products, natural and renewably
based fibers available in the market and drive innovation in the development of
more sustainable dyes, finishes, sundries, embellishments and packaging
methods. Growth also presents challenges ranging from securing fiber supplies
to accurately tracking and tracing the use of organic cotton through the supply
chain.
Below, some informative explanations on organic fibers which could be used as
alternative raw materials for organic production is mentioned.
2
http://www.ecochoices.com/1/cotton_statistics.html
6
4.1.
Alternative Fibers
Not only do textiles affect the environment
during production of the garments but also
during cultivation and manufacturing process
of the fibers. Cotton is the most common
natural fiber that is used globally; other natural
fibers include hemp and linen. At present,
production of these fibers is decreasing
whereas the demand for organic cotton is
steadily increasing. Other examples of biofibers include bamboo, soy, algae, maize,
agricultural waste and nettle.
Cotton is the most common used organic fiber.
The below listed fibers are the most used fibers in the organic textile industry.
Cotton
Cotton has the largest demand share in the organic fibers category. It is shown
as the most competitive fiber against conventional grown cotton. Since 2001, the
global organic cotton market has performed a tremendous growth. According to
the Organic Cotton Market Report, the production of organic cotton increased
from 25,394 metric tons in 2004/05 crop year to 57,931 metric tons in the
2006/07 crop year. Currently, Turkey and India are the leader of the raw material
supply. 3
Figure 1: Differences
between organic and
4
conventional cotton
3
Organic Cotton Market Report: Preliminary Highlights 2007, Organic Exchange
4
Source: www.aboutorganiccotton.org
7
As seen on the figure, organic cotton has many advantages when compared to
conventionally grown cotton. The biggest advantage is that it eliminates the use
of toxic substitutes and has no harm for the nature and human body. It’s known
that there are no differences in quality between conventionally and organically
grown cotton.
The biggest drive of fashion companies who buy conventional grown cotton is the
prices. Organic cotton is 50 to 100% more expensive when compared to
conventional cotton. However, over time, this difference may be reduced in some
ways. In the coming chapters these solutions will be explained.
Hemp
This fiber is another strong
competitive
fiber
against
conventionally grown cotton.
Hemp has been used for many
years in the textile industry,
mainly for rope, parachutes and
denim. Although fibers from
hemp are naturally rough, new
processes have been developed
to create soft but strong fabric.
Hemp is four times stronger than
cotton, twice as resistant to
abrasion, and more resistant to mold, soiling, shrinkage and fading in the sun. In
addition, hemp plants need little irrigation and significantly less pesticides or
other chemicals. The leading country for hemp production is China; other
significant producers are Russia, South Korea, Ukraine and Romania.
Linen
Linen is a material made from the fibers of the plant, flax. It is strong, durable,
and resists rotting in damp climates. It is one of the strongest textiles that have
no elasticity. It tends to brake when wet than dry pressed. The fibers are 2 to 3
times stronger than cotton and other natural fibers. The natural color varieties of
the fabric are; color ranges between the shades of ivory, ecru, tan and gray.
Flax is grown in many parts of the world, but the best quality of flax comes from
Western Europe and Ireland. Recently, bulk production has moved to Eastern
Europe and China.
8
4.2.
The Supply Chain
Social Responsibility and good environmental performance is not just about
supporting the production of environmental friendly goods but also extending its
duties towards people, the environment and society.
There is a strong link between good social environmental performance and
efficient, successful business. If the workers in a production plant are not
satisfied, this will affect the performance of the whole production and naturally
the outcome. Otherwise, improved working conditions will lead to an efficient and
successful business. The impacts of the supply chain can be classified in two
groups: The Environmental Impact and The Impact on People
4.2.1. Environmental Impact
The Environmental impact of
the supply chain is about
changes to the environment
that wholly or partially results
from the company’s activities,
products or services. Any
activity can cause an impact.
Environmental impacts may
relate to waste, emission from
printing process, packaging
material, plastic waste, waste
water, paper, lighting in offices,
energy use etc. These kinds of
activities could be monitored by
the production management
itself or by an external audit which reports in periodic checks, measurements
and/or observance.
Nowadays, companies are developing a variety of tools, policies and strategies
to meet the current environmental challenges. Many companies have an
Environmental Management System (EMS) which may be externally certified
under ISO 14001 or EMAS.
Environmental Management System (EMS): examines the exposure rate of
wastes in production companies. These systems can measure the toxicity the
waste. By knowing the results, companies can take precautions in order to
prevent negative impacts on the environment.
9
4.2.2. Treating People Fairly
Nowadays, a big part of the consumer group starts questioning where these
cheap clothes are coming from and under which conditions they were made.
Short films like ‘China Blue’5, ‘We Shop Who Pays’6 and many other videos are
being forwarded on the internet from one person to another. The consumer
demand towards an ethical industry is growing. In response, many companies
forms a code of conduct and publishes on their web site to prove their customers
that they are treating people fairly and are performing a sustainable business
approach. The key points of ‘Treating People Fairly’ are listed below:
1- Wages and Benefits: In many countries workers are being paid very low
wages. These wages should meet local legal requirements and should be
sufficient for the employee and his/her dependents to meet their basic
needs. Providing workers additional benefits like maternity pay, sick pay
and compensation for all employees injured at work is a an indicator that
the company takes its social responsibility seriously.
2- Working Hours: The Universal Declaration of Human Rights states
everyone has the right to rest and leisure, which also includes reasonable
limitations of working hours and periodic holidays with pay. Many workers
around the world works excessive long hours regularly. Long hours of
work and insufficient time off are damaging to health and relationships.
These excessive hours also affects negatively the quality and productivity
of a production plant since tired workers are much more tend to work
slowly and make mistakes.
‘ Workers shall not on a regular basis be required to work more than 48
hours per week and shall be provided with at least one day off for every
seven day period on average. Over time shall be voluntary and only used
when justified. It is recommended that it does not exceed 12 hours per
week and shall always be compensated at a higher rate, at least 125%.’
(International Labor Convention)
3- Health and Safety: There are health and safety risks in every work
environment. The risk can not be eliminated; however they can be
minimized through better health and safety management. For example, in
finishing and dying companies toxic ingredients are being used widely,
especially in developing countries because of the lack of health and safety
regulations many people die. Good health and safety management
strengthens a company by reducing the risk of accidents and illness,
which can increase absenteeism and decrease productivity.
5
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=9169455490161627258&q=china+blue&ei=LdYeSI7NI5XsigL
b4IjRAQ
6
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=3076138835044484743&q=We+Shop+Who+Pays&ei=6tYeSM
TmGpDuiwKvjIHHAQ
10
Every year millions of children are working under unfair conditions and many of them experience physical and
physiological harassment
.
Who has to pay for the western fashion demands? Workers, in developing countries, are badly affected of chemicals and
toxic ingredients while working in the production plant. Every year, many of them die because of this reason.
11
4- Child Labor: International Labor Organization (ILO) has estimated that
218 million children between the ages five and seventeen work in
developing countries.7 In some cases, a child’s work can be helpful to him
or her and the family; working and earning can be a positive experience in
a child’s development. This depends on the age of the child, the working
conditions, and whether the work keeps the child from going to school.
Children, who work long hours, often in dangerous and unhealthy
conditions, are exposed to lasting physical and physiological harm.
Companies should have system that ensures that they only hire
employees who are over the minimum age of employment set by ILO
Conventions and local law.
5- Forced Labor: Everyone should be working by their own will. In some
companies workers are not free to leave their job as they are threatened
by withholding their identity papers or deposits. On the other hand, many
people are forced to work overtime and are scared to refuse for fear of
losing their jobs. Employees should be free to leave employment following
a reasonable period of notice.
6- Freedom of Association and Collective Bargaining: The freedom of
rising concerns and negotiates solutions with the management should be
given to every worker. The employer should support the development of
independent, free association and bargaining, where the right has been
protected by law.
7- Non-discrimination and Equal Opportunities: Gender, race and union
membership are the most common forms of discrimination. They may be
paid differently, unfairly dismissed, or suffer verbal or physical bullying at
work. Policies should be made in order to protect workers against
discrimination. It is in the good sake of the company’s future success.
Figure 2: Most common problems in Treating People Fairly
8
80
70
60
Child Labour
50
Work Environment
40
Work Schedules
30
Salaries
20
Right to organize
10
0
7
8
http://www.ilo.org/public/english/dialogue/actrav/genact/child/index.htm
Well Dressed? The present and future sustainability of clothing and textiles in the UK. Julian M. Allwood
12
4.2.3. Socially Responsible Organizations and Institutions
Being social responsible has become an integral part of an organization’s
reputation and strategy. The fact that the organization is socially responsible
makes a great deal of difference to its credibility. Companies publish code of
conducts to show they are ethical. In reality, not many people know whether the
social and the working conditions are as good as it has been promised. In many
scenarios, companies polish their good image with a statement that is called
‘Code of Conduct’ but in reality the rules are not applied or applied in a very small
part of the supply chain. The ‘Code of Conduct’ is many times applied in the
production part of the supply chain because it is easy to control and track. Most
of the time, the rest of the supply chain is forgotten or just ignored.
In order to prevent these kinds of situations, companies should co-operate with
external agencies or organizations who can track their quality standards and
working conditions.
An introduction to these organizations is listed below;
FOR HUMAN AND LABOR RIGHTS:
•
Social Accountability International (SAI)
SAI is an international non-profit organization whose
mission is to promote human rights for workers around the
world since 1996. SAI co-operates with, consumer groups,
companies, non-governmental organizations, workers and
trade unions, local governments and as well with agencies
who are willing to operate in this voluntary organization.
SAI`s first social accountability system is SA8000 (Social
Accountability 8000 Standard), which manages ethical
working conditions through out the supply chain. This
standard is based on international work place norms of
International Labor Organization (ILO), the Universal Declaration of Human
Rights and the UN Convention on the Rights of the Child.
The SA8000 System includes 9
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
9
Child Labor
Forced Labor
Health and Safety
Freedom of Association and Right to Collective Bargaining
Discrimination
Discipline
http://www.sa-intl.org/index.cfm?fuseaction=Page.viewPage&pageID=473
13
7. Working Hours
8. Compensation
9. Management Systems
Next to the benefits towards a more humane working environment; there are
several benefits for workers, business, consumers and investors as well. These
side benefits are10
1. Benefits for Workers, Trade Unions and Non- Governmental
Organizations:
- Enhanced opportunities to organize trade unions and bargain collectively.
- A tool to educate workers about core labor rights.
- An opportunity to work directly with business on labor rights issues.
- A way to generate public awareness of companies committed to assuring
humane working conditions.
2. Benefits for Business:
- Drives company values into action.
- Enhances company and brand reputation.
- Improves employee recruitment, retention and productivity.
- Supports better supply chain management and performance.
3. Benefits for Consumers and Investors:
- Clear and credible assurance for ethical purchasing decisions.
- Identification of ethically made products and companies committed to ethical
sourcing.
- Broad coverage of product categories and production geography.
•
International Labor Organization (ILO)
"The rules of the global economy should be aimed at
improving the rights, livelihoods, security, and opportunities
of people, families and communities around the world." World Commission on the Social Dimension of
Globalization, 200411
ILO is an international organization, whose main aims are
promoting human and labor rights. The organization was
founded in 1919 and was built upon the idea ‘lasting peace
can be established only if it is based upon decent treatment of working people’.
Moving with this idea, ILO became the first specialized agency of the United
Nations (UN) in 1946.
10
http://www.sa-intl.org/index.cfm?fuseaction=Page.viewPage&pageID=473
A Fair Globalization: Creating opportunities for all, Report of the World Commission on the
Social Dimension of Globalization (Geneva, 2004), p. 143.
11
14
Since the day ILO was establishes, it has formulated international standards of
basic labor rights, in the form of recommendations and conventions, called ‘The
International Labor Standards’.12
The core labor standards consist of four values:
1- Freedom of Association, Collective Bargaining and Industrial Relations
2- Forced Labor
3- Elimination of Child Labor and Protection of Child and Young Persons
4- Equality of Opportunity and Treatment
FOR SUSTAINABLE PRODUCT TRACKING:
•
GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard)
There are many numerous standards for production in the niche market of
organic textiles. The existing standards cause confusion among producers and
consumers and are an obstacle to free international organic textiles exchange.
The aim of this standard is to define the requirements to ensure the organic
status of textiles, from harvesting of the raw material, through environmentally
and socially responsible manufacturing up to labeling in order to provide a
credible assurance to the end customer.
This standard encompasses every process step of the textile production;
production, processing, manufacturing, packaging, labeling, exportation,
importation and distribution of all natural fibers.
The ‘Global Organic Textile Standard’ is a result of a workshop, where regional
organizations came together to work in harmony and to strengthen their
international network. These organizations are; International Association Natural
Textile Industry (IVN) Germany, Soil Association (SA) England, Organic Trade
Association (OTA) USA, Japan Organic Cotton Association (JOCA) Japan. The
‘Global Organic Textile Standard’ is the new tool for an international common
understanding of environmental friendly production systems and social
accountability in the organic textile industry. It is a tool to unite regional
approaches and labels to a basic standard system with a real market impact in
main selling markets while permitting the participating organizations and their
licensee’s sufficient space to maintain their own identity and profile.
12
For more information on ILO; http://www.ilo.org/ilolex/english/subjectE.htm
15
4.3.
Finishing Process
In the textile industry, the finishing process is one of the main sources of waste.
Millions tons of water goes out from factories as waste every year. One of the
best examples for this topic can be shown as the environmental disaster caused
by cotton growing and dying in The Aral Sea. The Aral Sea shrunk by three
quarters and is filled with pesticides and fertilizers over the past few decades
whereas many local people relied on fishing and agriculture for their livelihoods.
It is one of the largest man-made ecological disasters.
For many years the toxic ingredients of the finishing processes have been
released into the nature without recycling and/or purifying. As a result of this,
demand for limited resources has extremely increased and environmental
pollution became unavoidable. Companies should adapt systems that are
cleaning the waste before it is released to the environment. Systems like EMS
(Environmental Management System) are an example. Such systems are not
expensive and in the long term can be seen as a good investment in terms of
using the resources. Secondly, natural dye ingredients which are not toxic can be
released to the environment without any harm.
4.4.
Flexibility to react to demand growth
As the demand from customers towards organic garments grow, the demand
from brands towards raw material will increase equally. Nowadays there are a lot
of discussions whether the growing demand for organic fibers could be fulfilled by
farmers. The answer is simple and it only requires good planning and
commitment; the volume of certified organic cotton that could become available
on the market in the short to medium term (within 1-2 years) is much larger than
the currently traded volumes. If there were enough demand towards certified
organic fiber, guaranteed in advance, the production volumes could double or
triple relatively easily within one or two years. There is an enormous potential in
countries like Turkey and India13 for increased production of organic cotton.
Other natural fibers can be handled in the same way as well.
4.5.
Limitations of The Organic Textile Industry
One of the biggest and most important limitation on this subject is awareness.
Both, the demand side (customers) and the supply side (brands/ production
companies), are not well informed or don’t know about eco- textiles and it’s
environmental, social and the benefits for human health. The reason for this is
that eco-textiles is a new starting to develop topic. Consumer awareness should
be attracted more towards ethical and environmental issues caused by
conventional production.
Secondly, the higher price of eco-textiles fabrics presents a major barrier for their
inclusion in the collections of regular shops and general expansion of sales. The
13
Organic Cotton Market Report 2007, Organic Exchange
16
price difference between conventional textiles and eco-textiles may gradually
diminish through cost reduction and increased efficiency within the eco-textile
sector itself, but in the short to medium term eco-textiles are likely to remain
more expensive than conventional. A crucial question therefore remains: how
can the higher prices of eco-textiles be marketed to the consumers?
Figure 3: Limitations in the Eco Textiles Market
14
High Costs for Control
50
Little Access
40
Unreal Demands or Bad
Certification
30
Weak Market
20
Limited Articles
10
Expensive Raw Material
0
5. Market Research of the Organic Textile Industry
5.1.
The International Organic Textile Market
Global organic cotton product sales increased an estimated 35 percent annually,
from $245 million in 2001 to $583 million in 2005 and are projected to reach to
$2.6 billion by the end of 2008. Brands and retailers like Nike, Timberland, Edun,
H&M, Marks & Spencer and Coop Switzerland are active in the market and
expanding their programs. They are joined by over 1200 small and medium sized
brands and retailers offering organic cotton products to the European, North
American and Asian consumer markets, with a burgeoning market in South and
Central America.15
In the US and Europe, most of the sales are driven by electronic commerce, mail
order catalogues, natural and health food stores and specialized boutique stores.
Big Brands like C&A, Wallmart and Nike started already some years ago to
invest in organic products. Today, Wallmart is one of the biggest organic cotton
buyer in the organic market.
5.1.1. Europe
In Europe, German companies are the market innovators for ecological textiles.
Demand from consumers towards eco products has always been high as
German consumers are known for their attention to their health. Also, German
14
Well Dressed? The present and future sustainability of clothing and textiles in the UK. Julian M.
Allwood
15
http://www.bizcommunity.com/Article/196/183/18436.html
17
textile and clothing industries were seeking for the production of higher valued
textile and clothing items in order to stand against the increasing competition
from lower waged countries in the market place. Similar to the US, mail-order
companies dominate eco textile sales in Germany. Since the beginning of 2000’s
OTTO-Versand became the market leader with a usage if 400 tons of organic
cotton in 2000.
The Swiss market is dominated by the large supermarket chain COOPSchweiz.There are few specialized eco textile shops in Switzerland. The
company’s commitment to the conversion to the organic textiles, and its
innovative image management through its own private label ‘Naturaline’, provide
useful learning material to other store chains.
Other important and up coming markets are the UK and Dutch market. The UK is
reported to be one of the fastest growing markets for ecological products. In the
2000’s Marks& Spencers tried to launch the second time an eco collection which
was discounted following low sales, and after a while taken out of the stores.
M&S attempt was judged to have lacked conviction, communication and
marketing. M&S was just trying out the market instead of creating and initiating
one itself with longer-term strategy in mind. However, the company is still
interested in giving another chance to eco garments with a better and longer term
strategy.
Kuyichi is the biggest and best known eco brand which is based in the
Netherlands. Its products are fashionable and are appreciated very much among
customers. Prices are high in order to target the image-oriented consumer,
similar to companies like Levi’s, GAP, Nike and Esprit.
Organic and Sustainable
.
People Tree
.
.
Kuyichi
Edun
.
.OTTO
Coop& Schweiz
.M&S
.C&A
.NIKE
.ESPRIT
.LEVI’S
.GAP
.H&M
.ZARA
.
Fashion Conscious
18
5.2.
Current and Future Trends
Current and Future trends in every aspect of fashion shapes the consumer
behavior. What is happening in the fashion industry today, can significantly affect
the buying behavior and the future. Some of the trends in the fashion industry
related to eco-textiles are listed below:
5.2.1. Fast Fashion
In the last 15 years, fashion has become much
cheaper and faster. Global communication and
marketing, together with increased competition
and the growth of long distance manufacturing,
have increased demand and higher consumer
expectations. This has resulted in faster fashion
cycles.
The recent sharp increase in overseas
manufacturing, especially in China and India, is a
direct result of the change in international trade
agreements which started in January 2005.
Before this date, individual markets were
protected from competing cheap imports but now cheaper goods can flow in the
market easily.
Cheap fashion means disposable fashion, and encourages more consumption,
creating a cradle-to-grave cycle. More importantly, fast fashion also puts
pressure on manufacturers to produce the goods in shorter lead-times, impacting
those who are actually making those clothes.
‘How we consume shapes the future of the planet’ Katherine Hamnett
19
5.2.2. Slow Fashion
Slow Fashion became a trend against the results of fast fashion. Slow Fashion
doesn’t have a rapid turnaround unlike Fast Fashion. This ‘slower’ fashion is
presented by longer life products, and new definitions of luxury and appreciation
of craftsmanship.
The current ‘fast fashion’ equals to cheaper and faster clothes which are
inherently unsustainable and can not continue forever; in fact signs show that this
paradigm is reaching its limits. Consumers became more aware of the issues it
brings. Front page news in the media are effective in raising awareness and
calling into question the industry and consumer practices that enable the
situation to perpetuate. As a direct contrast to faster, cheaper and ‘disposable’
fashion, the concept of ‘slow fashion’ comprises less obsolescence in a number
of ways. Slow fashion encompasses design for long term use and wear,
intelligent and innovative choice of materials for minimal impact and waste,
aesthetic, functional and emotional value, and concern for the entire life cycle of
the product. In order to achieve longer lasting and ‘low maintenance’ clothing, the
fabrics could have technical coatings to keep them cleaner for longer and, as a
result, would change the relationship consumer have with their clothes.
A POC (A Piece of Clothing) by Issey Miyake S/S 1999: An animated sequence showing the release of an entire
wardrobe embedded in the knitted cloth.
5.2.3. Bespoke and Customized Clothes
Before mass production, people had fewer clothes, which they valued and
protected. Those clothes were kept for many years by repairing and remodeling.
More and more companies are branding and marketing their products as ‘luxury’
goods. A major element of their high-end specification is the hand-crafting of
garments, accessories or footwear and the use of very best materials, offering a
personal service- all with the signature of tradition and authenticity. There has
been a wide appreciation for luxury goods, at the same time the desire for these
20
kinds of products spread to the wider market. Well known design houses like
Chanel, Louise Vuitton, Gucci and Versace created a new meaning of luxury
fashion in the 1990’s- luxury brands are no longer just for the elite class but also
for the middle class. Price is still the dividing factor, but perfumes and other
accessories can easily be purchased by a wider range of customers.
On the other hand, due to the power of exposure on the internet, small designer
companies are able to have a word on the international fashion market on the
virtual world. This allows the designer to reach a global market, sell directlyavoid mark-ups which can be added to the retail price, and gain useful direct
feedback on products. The consumer receives a crafted product and feels a
greater connection from this personal shopping experience.
Secondly, many big brands are starting to invest in internet shopping and
personal customization. Nike-i D is a good example to those companies.
Increasingly, through internet shopping, consumers are being given an
opportunity to express greater individual preference; the consumer becomes, in
some way, the co-designer of the product. Nike allows a customized design to its
base style of trainers. The trainers are ordered online and being delivered in four
weeks.
5.2.4. Craft and Mass-Production
Hand-made goods appear widely in
mass produced fashion in high street
stores. These kinds of products are
often manufactured in countries with
ancient hand craft traditions like India,
Asia and Malaysia. Beautiful and unique
weaving, embroidery, dyeing, knitting
and crochet are still done by hand
where labor is cheap.
Design fuels the fashion industry and
thus a constant search for new ideas in
order to be successful. These
successful sales, in turn, provide
employment for many workers at all
Mina Perhonen
levels in the industry. Growing awareness of ethical and environmental issues in
fashion and textiles has also led to a greater appreciation of craft traditions. Lika
Mina Perhonen, many Asian based companies offers a more responsible and
slower fashion which connects with the traditions of Asian textile practices and
still remains commercial. This form of fashion exists in direct contrast to fast
fashion with its creation of comfortable, apparently simple but also very
sophisticated clothes.
21
5.2.5. Techno-Eco: Future Visions
Textile developments are looking forward to highly technological solutions
against the current issues of production and the product’s longevity. Fabrics will
be expected to perform more in a range of ways such as by ‘self cleaning’
through protective nano-scale coatings and requiring less laundering. Change is
also going to be through ‘smart’ and ‘feel-good’ fabrics, which can monitor
environmental conditions and respond to needs. Current research will no doubt
make this a future utopia as attention has turned to the nano-technologies.
Eco Polo vs. Techno Polo by Tom Dixon for Lacoste; Eco Polo is made from natural indigo-dyed organic cotton with a
slightly ‘distressed’ worn or handmade appeal and packaged in an embossed box made from recycled materials. On the
other hand, Techno Polo is composed of Lurex fibers and cotton amalgamated with high-tech weaving techniques
vacuum-packaged in aluminum foil.
6.
Today’s Market Situation
Supply-side of the organic market:
The market levels covered by the fashion industry is very broad, the hierarchical
structure correlates price both exclusivity and production methods. The
International fashion industry comprises a number of major areas and retail
models, with many other niche markets in between.
On top of the triangle belongs to the haute couture market. The representatives
of this market are, Dior, Chanel, Christian Lacroix; this level of fashion comprises
hand-crafted complexity and unique pieces completely constructed by hand.
However, the genuine couture customer has now declined to around 2,000
clients worldwide who actually buy the couture pieces.
One stage down from this very high segment is the elite designer-brand level of
fashion where a strong design, innovation in cut and detail is emphasized.
Brands like Prada, Miu Miu and Donna Karan are the major fashion leaders in
this scene.
On a much smaller scale are the innovative independent labels or up coming
designers like Christopher Kane, Proenza Schouler or Emma Cook. This
22
segment of brands are very closely watched by the press and the head hunters
as they might be the next season’s big hit.
Another design-conscious level, but priced towards the high-segment fashion,
are the ‘bridge’ retailers who manufacture their own labels for their own store
chains- Jigsaw, Karen Millen, Monsoon, etc. These kinds of brands are more the
trend followers than trend setters.
Brands who sell at lower prices are the branded chain stores that make their own
mass production for the main stream market. They aim to be right on trend with
fashion by strong commercial ideas, and getting them in store at exactly the right
time for the trend to be the strongest. The cheaper prices lead to a poorer quality.
This includes multiple stores from M&S, GAP and ZARA.
Finally, there is the newest addition to the fashion segmentation which is the
‘value’ mass-market in which high volumes at the lowest price is the driving
factor. These stores offer the cheapest quality but it is perceived as very good
value at the price, in fashion basics, such as jeans or white t-shirts. This market
segment has developed only in the last decade when major changes in the
international trade agreements occurred; such as allowing imports from cheaper
labor countries.
Sense and Sensibility: Fashion vs. Eco
As the mass production has taken over the fashion industry, the third world garment workers
and the nature pays the high prices of the demand, still, the consumers can’t live without. One
starts wondering, when is enough?
That one person can make a big difference in many people’s mind; awareness leads to
intention, thus, a big move towards a greener lifestyle. Unfortunately, alone green thinking
won’t be enough as consumers can’t be oblivious to the fast changing fashion. Fashion plays
a big role in a person’s life. It is the reflection of his/her lifestyle, personality, mood and etc. As
long as new trends occur fashion will be always there to stay. Therefore consumers will keep
on buying the latest outfits to be up to date.
How can eco be a part of our life like fashion? Or can, actually, fashion be eco?
Banana Republic is another great example for big brands who starts to go green. There is a
big difference which separates Banana Republic’s eco strategy from the other ecoist brands;
Banana Rupublic is not pushing the idea of buying green in front of their main products. When
a consumer tends to buy a garment it is because he/she likes the design, material, feel, etc.
The fact that the garment is organic is just an added value. By applying this strategy, Banana
Republic proves that eco clothes can easily take the place of other common garments. The
slogan of the new eco line is; ‘One step at a time’
On the other hand, runway shows in the international fashion weeks are welcoming famous
designer’s green collections. Fashion designers like Stella McCartney, Marc Jacobs and
Narciso Rodriguez are presenting their latest eco-couture pieces which inspires millions of
fashion conscious minds towards organic and sustainability.
Eco can be fashionable as well; it all comes down to awareness and One’s creative mind.
23
6.1.
Socially Responsible Business Behavior
When discussing Socially Responsible Business Behavior, we must take into
consideration three different aspects:
-
-
Social Responsibility must be a sufficient part in the business
organization framework
Triple P; a balance must be found in People, Planet and Profit. The
People and Planet factor is determining more and more the
circumstances under which Profit is attained.
People includes everyone from within and outside the company
Planet includes all impacts the business has on the environment
Profit includes all revenues made
It must be transparent towards its stakeholders and consumers.
6.1.1. The Role of the Fashion Designer
The design of a product is what draws the consumer to buy it. The combination
of color, texture, fit, design and feel of the fabric are the most important elements
which attracts the consumer to the garment. Eco-fashion must have the same
qualities to meet the customer’s expectations, and satisfy them with its aesthetics
and its eco-credentials.
For eco-fashion to become chic and desirable, design must lead the way. At the
same time, the clothes must full-fill the customer’s expectations and meet one or
several criteria for ecologically sustainable and ethical fashion. The ecological
fabrics have always been severely limited when compared to the fabrics used in
the mass market. Only few pioneering companies like Katherine Hamnett and
People Tree have gone to the source of the fiber and made a totally ecological
and ethical production.
The designer’s fabric choice, until recently, rarely been based in sustainability
issues.
Nowadays, there is an urgent need and growing desire for more insight into
production methods to make more informed choices which can improve the
environmental impact of clothing and meet the ethical standards. Many people
associate environmentally friendly garments with unbleached, undyed and
shapeless items which are therefore not saleable. Designers and buyers should
therefore launch products on the market which are not necessarily perceived to
be environmentally thus cater for a larger target group. As a result, the
sustainable element will become a natural part of the production itself. Many big
companies like Nike, Wal-mart, Levi’s, M&S and C&A launched eco-collections
instead of conventional cotton products. This has not changed their style or
target group in any way. As a result of this, the two extremes of large and small
scale production are beginning to move closer to each other, and designer’s can
be the key influencer for greater sustainability, and creating consumer demand.
24
6.1.2. The Role of the Fashion Buyer
Fashion is truly a global business, in which each step is realized and carried out
in another part of the world. This is one of the key factors in the complexity of
traceability of the product.
The start of the fashion cycle is the catwalks. Right after the shows, the fashion
buyers places their orders four to five months in advance of the season which the
clothes will be sold, allowing time for preparing the fabrics, producing and
deliveries. This sounds in order, but this long establishes fashion system was in
the 90’s disturbed by an emerging market; Fast Fashion. Companies like ZARA
owns its own factories and supplies its own fabrics, therefore the total fashion
cycle is reduced to six weeks or less. Fast fashion introduces new styles to the
high street every month. This new cycle keeps customers coming back regularly
to buy the latest fashion which keeps the expectations and the competition high
on the market. Fast fashion squeezes the production loops every time tighter;
shorter lead times are expected from the producer thus the pressure on workers
are increasing. Short lead times and poor management by brands can cause
overtime for workers, or fine for failing to meet the targets. Dan Rees, director of
the Ethical Trading Initiative, a labor organization which sets out basic rights for
employees, believes it’s because ‘ethical codes of conduct are still not sufficiently
integrated into a company’s core practices and often remain marginalized within
a business.’
Very often, a company’s ethical trade team and the buying team operates
separately whereas a closer dialog between the two is a key to ensuring that
workers in developing countries don’t pay the price for western fashion demands.
Nowadays a lot of big and small sized companies are starting to give more
pressure on ethical buying behaviors. GAP, the largest US retailer, has already
recognized that ‘upstream decisions impact on what’s happening at factory level’,
and now is trying to manage its clothing supply chain so that factories are not
over stressed with last-minute orders or changes in the production plan.
Campaign groups and organizations such as Environmental Justice Foundation
and Labor Behind The Label have recently lobbied on behalf of farmers in
developing countries and garment workers in remote factories to ensure the
ethical supply chain.
National governments play a big part as well by inspecting and reporting the
factories. ‘Governments should also ensure there is effective labor inspection to
guarantee laws are complied with’ says Neal Kearney, general secretary of the
International Textile, Garment and Leather Workers Federation.
Adopting a ‘positive buying’ behavior is one solution, where a retailer or brand
reviews the critical path process and makes adjustments in the delivery times to
give the supplier more time to produce the orders, or balance out production
schedules by placing orders more evenly over time.
On the other hand, if a company is not 100% ethical and organic in its decisions
there still needs to be given more training to the buyers towards ethical
standards, and their role in implementing them. Since buyers have a big
influence on decisions, they should include the ethical criteria along side cost and
25
quality when selecting suppliers, and come up with a price that covers the
worker’s living wage.
One of the main drivers of adopting and integrating ethical business behavior into
design and buying decisions is the value it adds to the business above and
beyond worker welfare.
THE FAIR TRADE FASHION PIONEER:
PEOPLE TREE16
People Tree was founded in 1997
by Safia Minney while she was
living in Japan; she opened the first
People Tree flagship store. The
People Tree began with the
premise
of
sustainable
development for excluded and
disadvantaged
people
in
developing countries, and not from
the idea of starting a fashion
company. In 2001, People Tree
opened its first flagship store in
London, UK.
‘Fashion is political, that’s got to be
part of the reason why people buy
the clothes. If you buy a dress from
People Tree, you do so in the
knowledge that you are helping to
distribute wealth more widely
around the world.’ Safia Minney
People Tree creates close and sustainable partnerships with organic farmers and
artisans working in small-scale village units in many developing countries
producing handmade textiles, clothing and jewelry. By doing so, People Tree
supports local projects and encourages traditional local skills.
When TOPSHOP decided to embrace ethical fashion, People Tree was one of
three ethical fashion companies given floor space for Fairtrade Fortnight in March
2006. The event was a big success, as the flagship store in London maintained
its People Tree concession.
Jane Shepherdson, former buying director of TOPSHOP, says ‘The clothes need
to be more exciting, more directional, so they stand for something other than
saving the planet.’ 17
16
www.peopletree.co.uk
http://www.drapersonline.com/multiples/news/2008/02/ethical_lines_to_mark_fairtrade_fortnight
.html
17
26
M&S18: PLAN A, BECAUSE THERE IS NO PLAN B
M&S is the biggest retailer in the UK with 520
stores. It is well known for its mainstream
clothing for the middle market, M&S was slow
to create lines to attract younger and more
fashion conscious older consumers. In 2001
C&A developed new lines such as Per Una
which was designed by famous designer,
George Davis and Autograph series by Betty
Jackson and Julien McDonald. These new lines
led to a higher market share and to an extension
of the target group.
Under the leadership of chief executive Stuart
Rose, C&A has developed a public reputation as
a progressive actor on environmental and ethical
issues throughout its operations. The company
has developed its own environmental, chemical
and factory minimum standards and code of
practice, which has become an example for
other brands and manufacturers to follow. M&S joined the Ethical Trading
Initiative in 1999. In 2006, concerns about the issues of sustainable garment
production rose. The marketing concept ‘Look Behind The Label’, which M&S
published in 2007, addressed the increasing demand from it’s customers for
information about its products, via adverts and website.
In January 2007 Stuart Rose announced Plan A, a bold statement on the
company’s intentions on five key areas of environmental and ethical policy over a
five year period. This was a major step for a high street retailer which others
have followed, and has gained the company a number of business awards. M&S
is going to open world’s first zero-emission factory in Sri Lanka. By taking this
step, the company will be a leading brand in the eco industry.
Plan A comprises a hundred commitments on five areas: become carbon neutral,
send no waste to landfill, extend sustainable sourcing, help improve the lives of
the people working at the M&S supply chain and help customers and employees
live a healthier life style.19
In 2007, M&S bought 1/3 of the world’s cotton crop and is planning to expand in
2008. Plan A has committed to launch organic cotton, linen, wool lines and is
trialing recycled polyester fleece for 2008.
18
19
http://plana.marksandspencer.com/
http://plana.marksandspencer.com/?mnSBrand=core
27
6.2.
Problem Definition For The Business
There are many different price categories in the fashion market. A basic garment
like a T-shirt can be sold very cheap in a discount store, or sold at a designer’s
boutique at a very high price, with higher and more costly production values
(such as better quality fabrics) and often higher aesthetic design values. The
reason of these different price segments is, each of these garments has been
through a different supply-chain route, such as country of manufacture and labor
costs. When sustainability issues are factored in on top of this pricing structure, it
results in an inevitable rise in fabric and manufacturing costs, which creates
barriers for companies who do not want to see their prices rise. However, often,
these costs will balance over time through gained efficiency. Dan Rees of the
Ethical Trading Initiative suggests companies are asking now ‘How can I turn this
into a business opportunity?’ instead of ‘how much is this going to cost?’
6.3.
Demanding Transparency
‘In the past the label itself was enough. Today you need to match the brand
values with claims, tomorrow you have to demonstrate you have done so’
Millhouse, April 1999
Information is an important tool in the development of eco-textiles from a niche
market into a mass market. Consumers need clear, easy and reliable information
about products. Consumers not only have a right to choose but also they have
the right to know what they are choosing. To create transparency, an
independent and common label is needed that has been developed and
approved by all stakeholders on the eco-textile market and used by all suppliers
throughout the supply chain. Advantages of Transparency:
Enhances economic premiums
Protects competitive advantage
Develops deep emotional bonds and repeat purchase
Shows sourcing, pricing and employment practices
6.4.
Eco-Labeling
In order to become more ethical in purchases, consumers need to be educated
about the provenance of their clothing. However many products in the market,
which are non-certified goods, are labeled with words like, ‘organic’ and ‘natural’.
The term ‘eco’ is the most used term for clothing, alongside comes ‘green’,
‘environmentally friendly’, ‘sustainable’, ‘bio’, and also ‘organic’. No internationally
agreed standards exist for these terms yet.
The European Union developed the criteria for its Eco Label to be applied to
textiles in 2002, which is mainly concerned with freedom from harmful toxins, and
setting maximum limits on potentially harmful chemical residues, as is the Oeko
Tex 100 certification. Michael Flanagan of Clothesource believes that in a few
years time, labels on clothes which give their carbon emissions will be as
28
common as nutritional labeling on food. However, companies alone will not be
the ones to implement this; it will require government legislation on an
international basis.
Oeko Tex 100
The Oeko Tex is a registered
international label. Once products
have been to meet the criteria of the
Oeko Tex 100 standard and the
manufacturer has issued a ‘declaration
of conformity’, a twelve month license
is granted, allowing the producer to
use the on his products.
Textiles with this mark are:20
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Textiles that do not contain allergenic dye-stuffs and dye stuffs that form
carcinogenic aryl amines of the MAK-groups III A1 and III A2.
Textiles, which had been tested for pesticides and chlorinated phenols.
Textiles that have been tested for the release of heavy metals under
artificial perspiration conditions.
Textiles free from formaldehyde or containing trace amounts significantly
lower than the required legal limits.
Textiles with a skin friendly pH
Textiles free from chloral-organic carriers
Textiles for garments free from biologically active finishes
On the basis of Oeko-Tex Standard 100, a label Oeko-Tex 1000 is being
developed. It labels companies along the textile chain producing in an
environmental friendly way and takes into account the criteria of ecology
production.
20
http://www.oeko-tex.com/en/main.html
29
6.5.
Interviews with Market Insiders
In order to be objective and have different opinions on the organic and
sustainable textile industry, two experienced and professional business people
were interviewed.
Engin Akgun works in the German company, OTTO International21 since eight
years as a product manager. Together with the buyers, who are coming from the
head office in Germany, he is forming a part of the collection. Today, OTTO Int.
uses organic cotton in %85 of its whole cotton garment collection. This
percentage is very high when compared to other big brands. OTTO Int. buys the
organic cotton fiber from its source which is in Izmir. The fibers are brought to
Istanbul where they are processed to become the fabric. Most of their organic
cotton products are tops. Mr. Akgun’s biggest disappointment towards the
organic textile industry is that there isn’t an effective marketing strategy being
pushed and the prices are still too high for the mass market to afford. Because of
this, he admits, their target group in women and men older than 65 years old. On
the other hand, he believes this trend can be developed and turned into an
innovative and new life style.
On the other hand, Hilmi Tosun works in the supply
side of the textile industry. He works in Orta Anadolu
A.S.22 which is the largest fabric supplier in Turkey and
exporting to many big brands all around the world. Their
organic fabrics are all certified by Eco-Tex and are made
of fibers grown in Turkey, following a sustainable
approach. He thinks organic and sustainable garments
are just a trend nowadays and will get the attention of a
much smaller consumer group in the future. There sill be
still a considerable demand but this smaller consumer
group will understand the sustainable process and is will
be willing to make eco clothes a part of their lives. Mr.
Tosun regrets there isn’t a long-term marketing strategy
being planned and applied whereas there is great The Eco-Tex Certification of Orta
potential for this market to grow. He believes the external Anadolu A.S.
and non-profit organizations should perform a stronger
pressure on companies to be more sustainable and organic towards their
products.
21
www.otto.de
22
www.ortaanadolu.com
30
Demand-side of the organic market:
6.6.
Consumer Role
At present, eco-textiles seem to be sold dominantly to environmentally aware,
health conscious and interested consumers. In recent years, the eco-textile
sector has attracted more attention two groups of consumers: incidental and
conventional consumers. Some companies like H&M and Nike tried to go beyond
the eco niche market and tried to adapt much more the needs and wants of the
conventional clothing consumer. This effort to gain acceptance in the
conventional market has brought some advantages to the eco-textile sector. It
encouraged strategies focusing on cost reduction and efficiency. It also led to far
more attention to general product characteristics such as design, color, quality,
variety, style and image. Therefore, eco-textile products have started to look ever
more like conventional products.
There are several roles a consumer can have, which are influenced by the
decision making unit (DMU). A Decision Making Unit is an individual- a group of
individuals who are participants in a decision making process, who share a
common goal or goals which the decision will hopefully help them to achieve and
who share the risk arising from the decision.
An Initiator is the person who is first suggesting or thinking of
buying a particular product or service
An Influencer is who influences buying decisions by his/her view
or advice
Decider is who makes the final decision what to buy, whether to
buy, where to buy and how to buy
The user is the person who consumes the product or service.
Another way to look at the roles of consumers in the individual differences in
adopting the new product:
-Innovators
-Early Adaptors
-Early Majority
-Late Majority
-Laggards
31
Market
Share
Target groups
beyond the eco
niche
T
According to the above chart, between the Innovators, who are already behaving
in an ecological way, and the uninterested, ignorant and not accessible
consumers, the laggards, there is no similar indifferent consumer group but three
types of customers who are willing to follow ecological consumption criteria. They
range from ‘early adaptors’ who are interested in buying ecologically as soon as
the price is more affordable, to ‘late majority’ who will buy ecological goods
because everyone is buying them. Between those two groups lies the most
interesting group, the ‘early majorities’. Their acceptance of eco-products can
trigger the take-off for the ecological mass market. (Villiger, 2000)
6.7.
Types of Buying Behavior
There are four different types of buying behavior that can be distinguished;
Significant
Differences
Between
Brands
Few
Differences
Between
Brands
High Involvement
Low Involvement
Complex Buying
Behavior
Variety Seeking Buying
Behavior
Dissonance- Reducing
Buying Behavior
Habitual Buying Behavior
32
- Complex Buying Behavior: The consumer is highly involved in the purchase.
He/she can distinguish the differences between brands well, buys expensive and
risky products while purchasing infrequently and self-expressive
-Dissonance- Reducing Buying Behavior: The consumer is involved in
infrequently and self-expressive purchasing behavior. He/she is not able to see
the differences between brands. The purchasing act occurs mainly when there is
a good price and purchase convenience is attached to the product.
-Variety Seeking Buying Behavior: This behavior occurs when the consumers
are not involved with the purchase, but there are significant brand differences. In
this case, the cost of switching product is low, so the consumers may move from
one brand to another.
- Habitual Buying Behavior: This behavior occurs when involvement is low and
differences between brands are small. Consumers in this case usually don’t
create a strong attitude toward a brand but select it because it is familiar.
6.8.
Factors Influencing Buying Behavior
‘Sociological consumption research focuses on the aspect that the verifiable
consumption behavior of people is embedded in the context of values, attitudes
and cultural impact.’ Douglas, 1978
One of the objectives for this report is to try to understand how and why social
changes influence the market trends. The following points are identified as the
fundamental factors influencing this change in Europe:
- Demographic Factors: Stagnating birth rates, partial compensation of naturally
weak population growth rates through immigration from third world countries,
changes in ethnic population structure, increase in life expectancy, and an
increasing share of senior citizens in relation to the total population.
- Socio- Economic Factors: Changes in family structures, increase in singleperson households, structurally continuous unemployment, structural change
from industry to services, internationalization of employment, increasing
polarization between low-income and high-income households.
- Socio- Cultural Factors: Loss in significance of traditional values, change in
values, pluralistic lifestyles, individualization, loyalty with established
organizations such as the church, trade unions and parties diminish, less
importance of employment as a focus in life, increased recreation through
reduction in working hours, increasing consumption as a result of increasing
recreation, increasing social and symbolic importance of consumption.
33
- Technical Factors: Technology push through new technologies and high
innovation dynamics, change in everyday life and employment through
information and communication technologies.
Consumer behavior is affected by many uncontrollable factors. The marketing
P’s (product, price, place and promotion) are the key stimuli for consumers.
Other drivers influencing consumer behavior are; economic, technological,
political and cultural. These factors altogether affects the consumer, who mixes
them with his/her own characteristics and turns them into a set of buying
decisions. As a result, the consumer has a choice of product, brand, purchase
timing and amount. These decisions are all personal and can change from one
personality to another. Factors that influence consumer’s behavior are listed
below:23
Cultural
-Culture
-Subculture
-Social Class
Social
Personal
-Reference
groups
-Family
-Age and life
cycle stage
-Economic
circumstances
-Lifestyle
-Personality
and selfconcept
-Roles and
Status
Psychological
-Motivation
-Perception
Buyer
-Learning
-Beliefs and
attitudes
In today’s business environment there is too much information, choice and
change. Because of this, it is hard to attract the customer’s attention. Hamal and
Prahadal argues that companies should ‘lead their customers to where they want
to go but just don’t know it yet’. ‘Leading’ is the key of building beneficial and
adapting relationships with customers. Getting a customer to make a decision
involves persuasion.24
As companies try to sell new and innovative products, they must first sell new
ideas or concepts. The persuasion process must attract and gain conviction for
an effective solution. This involves a transformation in the customer’s thinking. To
accomplish this, the persuasion process must overcome resistance to change
the customer’s mind. Persuasion not only requires gaining awareness, but also
involves gaining conviction to new ideas.
Attracting the attention is only the beginning of gaining conviction for new ideas.
Customers must be motivated to shift from passively processing information to
actively applying mental effort to the issues. If motivating the customer has
succeeded the ‘leading’ process starts. If this process results positive, one will
have a competitive advantage by building good relationships with the customer.
23
Principles of Marketig. Philip Kotler, Gary Armstrong, John Saunders, Veronica Wong. 3
Europeen Edition
24
http://www.crm2day.com/library/EpFkkyAZupVqDLBOHk.php
rd
34
6.9.
Customer Survey: Voices from the market to sustain the eco story
A survey was made to consumers in order to get their views on eco fashion. In
total 100 consumers replied from different social background, age and gender.
The survey has some interesting points which are shown below:
•
Most of the participants were women aged between 18 and 25.
•
When asked where they shop for clothing regularly, most of the answers
were from mass production brands like ZARA, H&M, Urban Outfitter, etc.
•
This consumer group knows what eco is and is aware that today’s
consuming habits (mass production, endless consuming, and
environmental pollution) is harming the nature and culture in developing
countries.
•
Despite the big awareness, most of the consumers are not paying enough
attention to buy eco clothes. The reasons for this behavior are the limited
availability and unfashionable look of eco clothes. Besides these, the
consumer finds the prices of eco clothes too high as well.
•
A considerable amount of consumers can’t point out any brands that
produce an eco collection. Others, most of the time point out brands like
C&A, American Apparel, M&S, Kuyichi and Levi’s.
•
In conclusion, there are many similar ideas on how eco fashion could be
available and recognized more widely. These are;
•
Effective marketing for consumer awareness; benefits of eco
clothes should be brought to the attention of the consumer
•
New laws from the government in order to reduce taxes on organic
products
•
Price reduction
•
Telling the story behind the eco label
•
Attention to design
•
Education in schools, especially fashion schools as students are
the next generations influencers
•
Product placement on celebrities and/or collaborations with famous
designers for eco collections
•
Differentiation through quality, price and story behind the label
35
7. How Can Companies Drive Innovation: Advisory Report
Innovation is not simply an economic mechanism or a technical process; it is a
social tool through which individuals express their needs and creativity. It has
become the key to improved global competitiveness for many business sectors.
Nowadays, a rapidly expanding marketplace (globalization), increasing
competition, diversity among consumers and availability to new forms of
technology are the challenges that companies face. Creativity and, more
importantly, innovation is often the key to the success of a business, especially
when deciding on new strategies.
Nowadays, large companies have only focused on applying a sustainable
business approach in order to give themselves a good image on the market.
Companies, therefore, pushed small eco collections into their main collections to
prove they care about the environment and ethics. Many attempts, unfortunately,
have only resulted in a loss of profit and because of this, eco collections couldn’t
survive more than a couple of seasons in the stores. There are many reasons for
this short term attempt; like weak marketing strategies, not enough consumer
awareness, high prices, etc.
On the other hand, many smaller sized companies and designers started to
invest more money and time in the organic and sustainable textile industry.
Those companies created their business profile around the real meaning of
sustainability and organic textiles. How much they profit from this business is still
open to discussion but they are surely willing to make a change in the world of
fashion by telling the real story behind their labels and the materials they use.
These innovative brands changed the idea of organic and sustainable clothes in
the consumers mind. Before eco garments became fashionable and trendy, the
image of these clothes were nothing but shapeless, ruff and unfashionable.
Brands like Edun, Katherine Hamnett and People Tree made sustainable and
organic clothing fashionable and desirable through their design. When a product
is trendy, people are willing to hear the story behind it. By doing so, awareness
starts to spread between people and product recognition reaches its goal. The
only problem remains is the higher prices of eco garments and that it’s only
available for a certain target group, which is defined as ‘niche’.
The strongest position of eco-textiles has been in mail-order trade. Some of the
large companies like OTTO pushed the development. By doing so, no active
marketing campaigns were needed. Consumers are informed about the
ecological futures after their purchase. If environmental matters are going to play
an important role in the future development of eco-textiles, it is necessary to push
an integrated sustainable label which takes environmental issues, labor
conditions and fair trade aspects into account.
36
7.1.
By using current market trends
Consumers are aware of the issues that are the reality of many businesses
today. This can be named as the ‘hypocrisy’ of any consumer. The consumer is
willing to perform good ethics, but when they consume they are worried more
about the price attached on the garment than the origin and under which
circumstances this product has been produced. However, as trend forecasts say,
this buying behavior is to change in the long term.
Besides demand and supply factors, it is obvious that the textile market is
strongly influenced by general societal trends such as individualization and freetime society. There is a remarkable consumer trend to create different outfits for
every occasion. A modern consumer will primarily have other parameters in mind
than the environment when choosing his/her outfit.
Clothes show whether a person is up to date and fashionable. These cultural and
symbolic attitudes dominate the marketing strategies of many retailers. In order
to attract more public awareness to organic and sustainable textile, it is
necessary to make a connection between the sustainability criteria and
fashionably right garment link for the product. From this point of view, organic
and sustainability will probably be more an additional criteria than a leading asset
for the decision making process.
There has already been taken many steps in order to support the sustainable
and organic textile industry. Transparency, for brands, is an important tool to gain
the consumers trust. Consumers would be accepting to pay a higher price if only
they really believe the story of the product is telling them. The fact that the
product has been produced according to fair trade practices and the use of
organic cotton adds a lot of value on top of the higher price that the product is
been sold for. Therefore, companies should co-operate with external certification
programs to assure their products were produced in an ethical way and organic
cotton that is being used is certified at its source.
There are many well established non- profit organizations like the ILO and
GOTS. These organizations are tracking the product throughout the supply chain
and reporting back to its partner companies. By joining these kinds of
organizations, companies can assure that they are trustable. When buying
organic clothing, consumers will see a label which is attached along side the
price tag which represents the non-profit organizations contribution.
Advertising is another very important tool to encourage and inform consumers to
buy eco products. The fashionability of the product has to be the core message
as it is nowadays the main reason for consuming. The advertising campaign
should be very effective in order to change the consumer’s perspective on how
socially responsible organic fashion looks like.
When talking about socially responsible business behavior, selling eco-textiles
and working together with external non-profit organizations is not enough.
Companies should integrate this philosophy, as well, in their organizational
37
framework and should train its employees towards that direction. As discussed in
the previous chapters, the role of a fashion designer and buyer is very big in
implementing ethical business practices. Most of the time, the collection of a
brand is prepared by these influential people. If the fashion designer and buyer is
trained towards performing an ethical attitude, the outcome of their work will add
a lot of value in the development of sustainable and organic textiles.
7.2.
By creating new solutions
The fashion industry allows creative minds lots of possibilities without any
borders. Fashion is one of the very few businesses where everything is open for
a trial. Today’s greatest and most popular brands have a creative mind behind
their strategies. These creative minds are not afraid of trying and carrying the
leader position.
‘In January 2007, Marks& Spencer announced
they will go green in 100% of their business. M&S
started implementing a hundred points, five year
plan to re-engineer itself to become a carbon
neutral, zero waste to landfill, ethical trading,
sustainable sourcing, and health promoting
business. Stuart Rose, the chief director of M&S,
says that the initiative will cost 200m pound over
five years. 25’
This initiative of M&S can be shown as a good example and a giant step for the
development of sustainable and organic textiles. This idea of change came,
naturally, from a point of profit expectation. Stuart Rose believes a greener image
of M&S will help the sales to increase. The positive or negative sides of this
project will be open to discussion when the results are visible in four years from
today.
Another creative idea is the collaborations between
mass market brands and exclusive eco-friendly
designers. A common goal brings these two different
business approaches together: On one side, big
companies have the chance to be trendy and have a
greener image by collaborating with eco-friendly
designers or brands. On the other side, smaller brands
and designers have the opportunity to introduce their
collection to bigger consumer groups. The eco- friendly
clothes of the designers create a totally different image in the consumer’s mind.
The consumer understands that the sustainable and organic clothes are no
longer looking like the shapeless and ruff image they had in mind before. The
25
http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/business/6262453.stm
38
introduction of these small eco brands and positive feedback from consumers
leads to a demand for innovative sustainable design.
The collaboration between Katherine Hamnett for Tesco and People Tree for
TOPSHOP can be shown as successful strategies to combine both business
approaches.
7.3.
How to leave the Eco-niche?
There are several ways of spreading the range of ecologically produced goods,
more generally to reduce the environmental pollution caused by a market, which
are conceivable. The first is the market growth of the eco-product share. A
second approach is an ecological upgrading of conventional products, often
caused by regulatory reasons (banning of hazardous ingredients). Further strong
possibilities are a greater market share of products of medium environmental
quality (spread of eco-tex 100 products) or upgrading the medium quality.
Villinger, Wustenhagen and Meyer26identified two main groups of players having
an important impact in the supply side of the eco market. Davids, who are small
innovative enterprises with a strictly ecological philosophy and product range
(People Tree as a brand is an example to this group). On the other hand, there
are the large and well-situated players on the market; they are called the Goliaths
(C&A and M&S are good examples). This group discovers that eco- assortments
within their product range may benefit them and/or boost their image on the
actual or future markets. While the small niche enterprises are mostly guided by
high goals and a mission, their ability to fulfill the needs of the mass market are
quiet low.
As a result an increase in the number of eco-pioneers, of Davids, and an
increase in more ecologically produced goods in the supply of Goliaths, can help
transform the market towards an ecological mass market.
Successful positioning of a brand means defining a target group in the market,
identifying its current needs and creating a unique selling proposition that fits the
company’s competencies and as well the target group’s needs.
21&26
Jenseits der Oko-Nische, 2000
39
To leave the eco-niche there are two possible ways: 1- Positioning a firm in the
niche and widen the niche afterwards or 2- positioning the firm towards the mass
market target groups in the beginning. The first path is most of the time followed
by the Davids. The second one could be more interesting for the Goliaths who
want to show their environmental responsibility but don’t want to position
themselves green only.
Environmental Product Quality
Eco Plus
High
Quality
Eco Growth
Figure 4:
Roadmap of the
Ecological Mass
Market 27
Upgrading
the Middle
Enlarging
the Middle
‘organic’
Upgrading
Conventionals
Medium Quality
Low Quality
‘conventional’
Market Share
‘
40
8. References
In order of appearance
Chapter1: Introduction
•
‘Cradle to Cradle: Remaking the Way We Make Things’
by William McDonough & Michael Braungart North Point Press, 2002.
Chapter2: Organic and Sustainability: Defined
•
Wikipedia
Chapter3: Problem definition, research questions and research plan
Chapter4: An Overview of the Organic Textile Processing
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
www.ecochoices.com
www.aboutorganiccotton.org
www.emssales.net
www.ilo.org
www.sai-intl.org
www.ethicaltrade.org
www.cleanclothes.org
Organic Exchange: Organic Cotton Market Report, 2007
‘Fashion Victims: The True Cost of Cheap Clothes at Primark, Asda and
Tesco’ by War on Want, 2006
‘Guidelines: A Handbook on the Environment for the Textile and Fashion
Industry’ by Sustainable Solution Design Association, 2005
‘My Sustainable T-shirt: A Guide to Organic, Fairtrade and Other Eco
Standards and Labels for Cotton Textiles’ by Pesticide Action Network, UK
2005
‘The Deadly Chemicals in Cotton’ by Environmental Justice Foundation,
2007
‘Ecological Footprint of Cotton, Hemp and Polyester’ by Bio-Regional
Development Group and WWF, 2005
‘Well Dressed? The Present and Future Sustainability of Clothing and
Textiles in the UK’ by Julian Allwood, 2006
‘A Fair Globalization: Creating Opportunities for all’ by The World
Commission on the Social Dimension of Globalization, 2004
‘Sustainable Fashion and Textiles: Design Journeys’ by Kate Fletcher,
2008
41
Chapter5: Market Research of the Organic Textile Industry
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Fast Fashion: http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/business/3086669.stm
http://www.bbc.co.uk/blast/art/articles/cheap_fashion_fast_fashion.shtml
Slow Fashion: http://www.treehugger.com/files/2007/04/slow_food_slow_1.php
http://www.ultrapdx.com/zero/2007/02/26/field-notes-slow-fashion/
www.cherryflava.com
www.otto.de
www.coop.ch
www.marksandspencers.com
www.kuyichi.nl
www.nikeid.nike.com
‘Well Dressed? The Present and Future Sustainability of Clothing and
Textiles in the UK’ by Julian Allwood, 2006
‘Deeper Luxury: Quality and Style When the World Matters’ by Jem
Bendell & Anthony Kleanthous, 2007
‘The Face of Fashion’ by Jennifer Craik, 1993
Chapter6: Today’s Market Situation
•
•
•
www.datamonitor.com
‘Consumer Behavior in Fashion’ by Michael R. Solomon and Nancy J.
Rabolt, 2004
‘Principle of Marketing’ by Philip Kotler, Gary Armstrong, John Saunders,
Veronica Wong. 3rd European Edition
Chapter7: How Can Companies Drive Innovation: Advisory Report
•
•
•
www.topshop.co.uk
‘Green is the New Black: How to Change the World with Style’ by Tamsin
Blanchard, 2008
‘Jenseits der Oko-Nische’ by Alex Villiger, Rolf Wustenhagen, Arnt Meyer
and Mischa Kolibius, 2000
42
APPENDICES
APPENDIX 1-
ILO STRUCTURE
The ILO accomplishes its work through three main bodies, all of which comprise
government, employer and worker representatives. These are28;
1- International Labor Conference: The member States of the ILO meet at the
International Labor Conference in June of each year, in Geneva. Two
government delegates, an employer delegate and a worker delegate represent
each Member State. Technical advisors assist the delegations, which are usually
headed by Cabinet Ministers who take the floor on behalf of their governments.
Employer and worker delegates can freely express themselves and vote
according to instructions received from their organizations. They sometimes vote
against each other or even against their government representatives.The
Conference establishes and adopts international labor standards and is a forum
for discussion of key social and labor questions. It also adopts the Organization's
budget and elects the Governing Body.
2- The Governing Body: The ILO Governing Body is composed of 28 government
members, 14 employer members and 14 worker members. States of chief
industrial importance permanently hold ten of the government seats. Government
representatives are elected at the Conference every three years, taking into
account geographical distribution. The employers and workers elect their own
representatives respectively.
3- The International Labor Office: The Office employs some 1,900 officials of
over 110 nationalities at the Geneva headquarters and in 40 field offices around
the world. In addition, some 600 experts undertake missions in all regions of the
world under the programme of technical cooperation. The Office also contains a
research and documentation centre and a printing facility, which issue many
specialized studies, reports and periodicals.
28
http://www.ilo.org/global/About_the_ILO/Structure/lang--en/index.htm
43
Appendix 2- Focus Group Discussion: What do consumers think about Eco
Fashion?
To make a strong and effective marketing strategy, it is important to know the
consumers ideas about the concept and/or product. As a part of the research, I
made a focus group discussion in which I invited twenty people from different
cultural backgrounds, age and fashion views. Below, are the key impressions of
this discussion:
Q: What do you think about eco textiles?
S.K. (Age: 21, Turkey): ‘I see a great chance and potential in eco textiles. It is
very new, especially in our country (Turkey); I can follow the updates on internet
and some magazines. I think the important thing is to get across the message
(ethical clothing purchase) and really implement it. When I make an unethical
clothing purchase, I am well aware of it. I usually feel quiet frustrated but in many
times I don’t feel guilty. We can’t avoid all the time these unethical situations but
the fact is that we’re at least thinking about the consequences of the purchase. I
think in the future we will be more informed and will make better thought
purchases. We’re only in the beginning of the change.’
L.H. (Age: 25, Germany): ‘The thing is, I work in an office and I need to look
smart. I mean there are few ethical clothing retailers but they only sell really
casual, kind of hippy clothes which I can’t wear to the office.’
P.B ( Age: 22, Sweden): ‘I would really like to buy more organic stuff, like tops
and so on, but you don’t even know whether it’s really organic and ethical. I think
there must be a common label like in the organic food sector that insures the
product is really made in an ethical way and is organic. Companies can lie about
their products just to boost their image on the market.’
P.S. (Age: 22, The Netherlands): ‘... Ethical clothes are so expensive as well.
This can really put you off. … I’ve got used to spend a bit more on organic food
but I can’t bear spending more on ethical clothes at the moment.’
E.S. (Age: 26, Belgium): ‘Organic and Fair Trade products are becoming more
fashionable everyday. I don’t know whether it’s a trend or it’s something
permanent. I just bought the other day from Urban Outfitters (UK based retailer)
a Katherine Hammnet t-shirt because I loved the design and the feel of the fabric.
Later, I realized it’s made of 100% Organic Cotton. I think eco- textiles can be
very fashionable for a little more price.
44
Appendix 3- Interviews:
Name and Surname: Engin Akgun
Company Name: OTTO International
Function: Product Manager
1Do you produce ecologic garments?
Yes, we are producing organic garments for OTTO International which is a
large company known in Germany for their high use rate of organic cotton.
Every step of production is being done in a sustainable way in Turkey. We
buy the organic cotton as fibers from the west coast of Turkey, Izmir. The
fibers come to Istanbul where the spinning, knitting or waving process is hold.
We are one of the biggest company who buys organic cotton in Turkey. 85%
of OTTO Int.’s collection is made of organic cotton.
2-
Many people think ‘eco’ is just a trend nowadays therefore; it will
disappear after a while. What is your opinion on this subject?
I believe nowadays this is limited only as a trend, many people are not aware
of the true value of sustainable and organic products. Our target group is men
and women who are over 65 years old. Unfortunately, younger consumers
don’t want to pay a higher price which doesn’t look like the fashionable
product sold next door for a very cheap price. This is our biggest problem.
3-
Do you think there is a considerable demand from consumers
and/or brands?
The demand of consumers is totally up to the products which companies offer
and advertise. When we look globally, I don’t see the enough demand. Even
in Turkey there are business people in the industry who even don’t know we
are producing such a quality. This fact is sad when we know that Turkey is
the biggest supplier of organic cotton with an 85% share.
4-
‘Good marketing and consumer awareness are the keys of
successful brands.’ Do you believe there is a strong marketing
strategy done for eco products and the consumer is informed
enough on this subject?
Unfortunately, the consumer is not well informed on organic and sustainable
products. Our biggest weak point is that our marketing strategies are not well
thought and implemented.
5-
What kind of limitations do you see/ experience in the eco textile
industry? What could be done?
As I mentioned above, the high prices of organic cotton makes it impossible
to compete with conventional grown cotton. Consumers will naturally choose
for the lower priced product. The second limitation is consumer awareness. I
believe a strong marketing strategy and a push from brands towards eco
products can attract more people.
45
Name and Surname: Hilmi Tosun
Company Name: Orta Anadolu A.S.
Function: Customer Representative
1- Do you produce ecologic garments?
Yes, we do. Orta Anadolu A.S. produces a lot of different fabric qualities but
mainly denim. In the past few years we’ve started investing in organic fabrics.
I can say Turkey has the best quality of organic cotton when compared to
other countries. All our organic fabrics are labeled with Eco-Tex and we have
all the documentations if the customer wants to see it.
We have a large scale of buyers; Levi Strauss& Co., Tommy Hilfiger, MAVI
Jeans, Calvin Klein, Pepe Jeans, etc.
2- Many people think ‘eco’ is just a trend nowadays therefore; it will
disappear after a while. What is your opinion on this subject?
In my personal opinion, ‘eco’ is nowadays only a trend which people feel the
need to follow in order to be fashionable. In reality many of them doesn’t
know the real purpose of these clothes. I don’t say it will disappear after a
while; it will be smaller and will serve to real purposes. The important point in
this subject is to be a part of fair trade and the organic clothing industry.
Because in fact, it is getting everyday harder to track products to its source
and know under which circumstances they were made.
3- Do you think there is a considerable demand from consumers and/or
brands?
I believe, if your brand is competing in the real fair trade and organic industry,
there surely is. It will take a long time till more people start to be aware of the
purpose of this industry. The demand will follow awareness.
4- ‘Good marketing and consumer awareness are the keys of
successful brands.’ Do you believe there is a strong marketing
strategy done for eco products and the consumer is informed
enough on this subject? What could be done?
No, definitely not. (Laughs) If there has been a strong strategy done for
organic and sustainable products, we would have a much bigger market
share. I think, external and non-profit organizations play a big role. First of all,
they should follow more aggressive approaches in the market to get the
attention of the consumer. Secondly, they should control more often and
detailed the companies for their working conditions, child labor, etc.
The media can be the best example to attract the attention of the public.
People do what they say. One day, a celebrity speaks about a particular
company who is not ethical and the next day, the very same company’s sales
drops significantly. This was only an example to describe the impact of media.
Why not use the same tool to get the attention of people?
46
5- What kind of limitations do you see/ experience in the eco textile
industry? What could be done?
I can imagine for a brand the prices being a big limitation. But for us,
suppliers, is the labeling an important problem. Trustable and well known
measurement methods and certifications can direct the consumers to genuine
ecologic garments and this will protect fair manufacturers.
Appendix 4- Customer Survey: Voices from the market to sustain the eco
story
1- What is your gender?
• Man
• Female
2- How old are you?
• 18 or less
• 18-25
• 25-30
• 30-35
• 35-40
• 40 or more
3- At which shops/ brands are you shopping the most?
• Any brand from the Inditex group (ZARA, Bershka, Pull& Bear, Masimmo
Dutti)
• H&M
• Mango
• Esprit
• American Apparel
• C&A
• M&S
• Adidas
• Any other: …
4- Do you believe some issues in the textile industry, like mass production,
endless consuming, environmental pollution and the pressure on the third world
countries, are becoming more important and visible?
• Yes
• No
• I’m not sure
47
5- Do you believe we, as consumers, can change this negative effect on the
environment and the third world countries by revising our shopping habits and
lifestyle?
• Yes
• No
• I don’t know
6- Do you know what organic and/or sustainable clothing (eco) is?
• Yes
• No
7- Do you buy eco clothes?
• Very rare
• Sometimes
• Often
• Never
8- Which brands do you know that sells organic and/or sustainable clothing?
• ….
9- Do you think there are enough brands offering an eco (organic and/or
sustainable clothing) collection?
• Yes
• No
10- What is your general impression of eco clothes?
• Very trendy
• Healthy and good for the environment
• Nice but not fashionable enough
• Too expensive
• Shapeless and too basic
• Any other ….
11- If you have to choose between similar looking, plain white t-shirts;
• Would you prefer a normal t-shirt for 6 Euros, 100% cotton
• Or a t-shirt for 14 Euros, 100% organic cotton and produced under ethical
conditions.
12- Do you also consider the ethical values when you buy clothes?
• Sometimes
• Always
• Never
48
13- What do you think of some companies (like C&A, M&S, etc) launching eco
collections?
• Yes, I think it’s a good initiative
• No, I don’t think it’s a good initiative
• I don’t know
• Any other …
14- What could be done to encourage the consumer to buy eco clothes? Any
great idea is welcome☺ :
…..
Statistics
Question 1: What is your gender?
• Man
• Female
%30
%70
Question 2: How old are you?
• 18 or less
• 18-25
• 25-30
• 30-35
• 35-40
• 40 or more
%5
%25
%17
%16
%19
%12
3- At which shops/ brands are you shopping the most?
• Any brand from the Inditex group (ZARA, Bershka,
Pull& Bear, Masimmo Dutti)
• H&M
• Mango
• Esprit
• American Apparel
• C&A
• M&S
• Adidas
• Any other: …
%24
%19
%12
%9
%4
%14
%9
%3
%6
4- Do you believe some issues in the textile industry, like mass production,
endless consuming, environmental pollution and the pressure on the third world
countries, are becoming more important and visible?
• Yes
%85
• No
%11
• I’m not sure
%3
49
5- Do you believe we, as consumers, can change this negative effect on the
environment and the third world countries by revising our shopping habits and
lifestyle?
• Yes
%90
• No
%5
• I don’t know
%2
6- Do you know what organic and/or sustainable clothing (eco) is?
• Yes
%80
• No
%15
7- Do you buy eco clothes?
• Very rare
• Sometimes
• Often
• Never
%45
%15
%2
%35
8- Which brands do you know that sells organic and/or sustainable clothing?
• M&S, Kuyichi, Edun, Levi’s, John Patrick Organic, C&A, H&M,
Topshop, Veja Shoes, Imps& Elfs, ZARA, Cotton People Organic, Hema,
People Tree, Kathrine Hammnet t-shirts, American Apparel
• No answers
%42
9- Do you think there are enough brands offering an eco (organic and/or
sustainable clothing) collection?
• Yes
%0
• No
%79
10- What is your general impression of eco clothes?
• Very trendy
• Healthy and good for the environment
• Nice but not fashionable enough
• Too expensive
• Shapeless and too basic
• Any other ….
%17
%34
%44
%36
%34
%16
11- If you have to choose between similar looking, plain white t-shirts;
• Would you prefer a normal t-shirt for 6 Euros,
%67
100% cotton
• Or a t-shirt for 14 Euros, 100% organic cotton
%30
and produced under ethical conditions.
50
12- Do you also consider the ethical values when you buy clothes?
• Sometimes
%34
• Always
%2
• Never
%63
13- What do you think of some companies (like C&A, M&S, etc) launching eco
collections?
• Yes, I think it’s a good initiative
%88
• No, I don’t think it’s a good initiative
%0
• I don’t know
%8
• Any other …
%0
14- What could be done to encourage the consumer to buy eco clothes? Any
great idea is welcome☺ :
•
Effective marketing for consumer awareness; benefits of eco
clothes should be brought to the attention of the consumer
•
New laws from the government in order to reduce taxes on organic
products
•
Price reduction
•
Telling the story behind the eco label
•
Attention to design
•
Education in schools, especially fashion schools as students are
the next generations influencers
•
Product placement on celebrities and/or collaborations with famous
designers for eco collections
•
Differentiation through quality, price and story behind the label
•
Collaborative advertisement campaigns; like the milk advertisement
in the late 60’s, promoting one idea: ‘Drink milk!’
•
Explaining the consumer ‘eco’nomic clothes doesn’t mean
‘eco’logic clothes.
•
Start using eco clothes throughout the regular collections and than
apply this to the whole collection
•
Showing behind the scenes videos like ‘China Blue’ to a wider
public.
•
No answers
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