The discreet chanu of the rue de Bourgogne

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The discreet chanu
of the rue de Bourgogne
Hidden away amid the aristocratie splendors of the Faubourg Saint-Germain, between
sumptuous, rather austère mansion houses and élégant but deserted avenues, the rue de
Bourgogne cuts quite the pose. This chic and lively Parisien "village" is packed with boutiques,
applied art showrooms, galeries, eateries and restaurants. So what are you waiting for?
BY VIVIANE BUSSH, JEAN-MURIE DUBOIS, PHOTOS: STEPHANIE SLAMA.
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I
Laid out by royal
decree in 1707,
rue de Bourgogne is
dominated by the
Palais Bourbon
(below), the former
residence of the
Prince de Condé,
and a square
(top right), where the
street begins.
n one of these curious twists of fate, the élégant
rue de Bourgogne, an aristocratie hotspot in the
18th and 19* centuries, begins at the place du
Palais Bourbon, the seat of France's lower house
of parliament, the National Assembly... the very
heart of the French Republic. And it was named
after Louis, duc de Bourgogne (1682-1712), the
grandson of Louis XIV and father of Louis XV - a fervent supporter of the absolute monarchy! There are plenty
more fascinating finds to discover along this lively street,
which attracts everyone from tourists and art lovers heading for the Rodin muséum on rue de Varenne, to parliamentary secretaries, senior civil servants and, of course,
its discreetly chic inhabitants.
This is not, strictly speaking, "old Paris". The street
was laid out relatively hte - in 1707 - on the orders of
Louis XIV in honor of his grandson. It originally ran
from the banks of the Seine, skirted the Palais Bourbon
- renamed rue Aristide Briand in 1963 - and out across
fields belonging to the Saint-Joseph and Pré aux Clercs
nunneries. It retained a rustic aspect for many years, especially around its upper end leading to rue de Grenelle,
once lined with the outbuildings of two private mansions,
the Hôtels Broglie and Périgord. In 1776, the all-powerful Prince de Condé launched an early real estate venture
and cleared the area in front of his residence (the future
National Assembly) to create a semi-circular square
bordered with residential rental properties. After rebuilding in the 19th century, it was turned into the square you
can still see today, with its dazzling white buildings at the
upper end of rue de Bourgogne, which play host, among
others, to the editonal offices of Vogue magazine, the
florist Moulle and chic shoemaker Pierre Hardy.
The façades of the buildings along rue de Bourgogne
are fairly harmonious. Most are former outbuildings dating
from the 18th and 19* centuries, not especially luxurious,
but built with care. A few sumptuous Haussmannian residences between rue Saint-Dominique and rue de Grenelle
have imposing entrances - a clue to their once prestigious
residents. At no. 46 and 48, two large double doors under
Roman-style arches lead to twin hôtels - Hôtel d'Anlezy
at no. 46, built in 1771 and recently bought by a press
baron, and Hôtel Choiseul-Praslin at no. 48, constructed
the same year, and acquired thirteen years agc by an industrialist and contemporary art collector. These listed
historié monuments, each giving onto a garden, discreetly
recall the neighborhood's past as a haven for aristocratie
pleasures, which bas ksted to the present day.
Provincial charm of the street
Although the street was being resurfaced on the day of
oui visit, causing a terrifie roar and a (not very rustic!)
smell of tarmac, rue de Bourgogne has a provincial charm
that's quite unique in Paris, where applied artists -bookbinders, milliners, tailors and parquet specialists - rub
shoulders with contemporary designers (including Flos),
a new boutique opened by steve specialists La Cornue at
no. 54 and contemporary art galeries such as Brun-Léglise
at no. 51. Its wonderful decoration stores, like those opened by architect Philippe Parent, shell designer
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Thomas Boog, the KRD vintage outlet at no. 58, Entrez
sans frapper, an unusual second-hand/antiques store and,
of course, the celebrated florist Moulle, remind us that wc're
in one of the capital^ most élégant neighborhoods, where
the word "decoration" still actually means something.
A melting pot of activities
The just-opened Spa Adriana Karembeu has brought a
breath of fresh air to a neighborhood that was beginning
to rest on lis laurels. Girl's clothing brand, Sœur, brainchild of sisters Angélique and Domitille Brion, also
recently opened a store in a former dairy shop, complète
with glass-fronted décor, as a showcase for collections
inspired by none other than Violette de la Fressange,
daughter of Inès, before their release in the brand's stores
at 88 rue Bonaparte (6th) and 5 rue Pierre Guérin (16th).
Bakers, grocers, wine-sellers, cafés and restaurants complète the melting pot. If you're feeling hungry, it's werth
checking out two typically-Pansian addresses: the Club
des poètes at no. 30, which welcomes poets and poetry
enthusiasts in simple but warm surroundings every night
except Sunday. After eating, storytellers share their love
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of words with you, fram 10 o'clock onwards. Another
curiosity, but of a totally différent kind, is the smoking
room at the Tante Marguerite restaurant, a meeting point
for French politicians, run by the very capable Dominique
Loiseau. On the second floor, there's a delightful salon
seating four or five guests, where you can, yes, actually
smoke! Despite lawsuits and threats from various organizations, Loiseau has refused to alter the room, which
he considers private, since walters never enter it (they use
a dumbwaiter), allowing lovers of cigarettes and cigars
free reign to indulge their passion guilt-free.
Although the 7th arrondissement - apart from familiar landmarks like the Eiffel Tower, the Champ-de-Mars,
the Invalides and the Musées d'Orsay and Rodin - is
more associated with the end, radier than the beginning,
of walks, the rue de Bourgogne has plenty of surprises in
store. Hidden under the shadow of the Sainte-Clotilde
basilica, on rue Las Cases, is a neighborhood that's home
to the august institutions of the French Republic, where
restaurants, decoration stores and fashion boutiques live
in total harmony. An elitist neighborhood, well preserved, but welcoming. • J.-W. D.
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Underthe shadow of
the Sainte-Clotilde
basilica, rue
de Bourgogne has
a provincial charm
unique in
this neighborhood.
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RUE DE BOURGOGNE HOTSPOTS
By Viviane Blassel
Philippe Parent, there's no mistaking
gréât faste
Y
ou need to revise your knowledge of classical f urniture before
you set foot inside this haven of luxury, peace and sensual
delights At least that's the message that cornes over loud and
clear when you enter this boutique created by Philippe Parent, who
descnbes himself as the designer and producer of "his" products
Mis products, to be précise, are items of furniture, lights, accessories,
carpets and fabncs that he designs and bas produced by leadmg
French craftsmen, in line with his passion for French culture and
loyaltytoitsillustnoushistory of expertise Ambitious? Sure But this
is a man who overflows with enthusiasm for his woodworkers, bronzesmiths, chair-makers and weavers, and can lalk for hours about the
people who so admuably continue Rance s illustnoLs traditions whatever the style or penod Entering the store is like walkmg into his
apartment the lighting, colors, the placmg of the furniture and the
objects on display scream good faste, élégance and a job well done
Mis products are sold around the world, and interior architects fall
over each other to secure bls designs Despite this fact. Philippe
Parent, an interior architect himself and trained at the prestigious
Ecole Boulle in Paris, prefers to remain discreet Just like true luxury
Philippe Parent. 45, rue de Bourgogne, 7th. Tel. 0145511585.
www.philippe-parent.fr
Thomas Boog, he sells sea shells
T
he items sold in this store are so unusual that's impossible to walk by without gazmg into
the store wmdow where, placed center stage, dominatmg the scene, is a majestic vase, or
rather sculpture, measunng over a meter high and totally covered in whelksi Shell décorations' Only a land-lovercould thinkof that1 ln fact, Thomas Boogspent long hours weighing up
the possibilités, and found them to be poorly exploited or put to poor use "Shells are unique
material, " he explams "/Ve worked with them for twenty-five years, and the more time I spend
with them, the more I work with the most simple cnes, like razor clams and musse/s, the more
surprised I am, because no two shells are ever alike, hence the problem with symmetry" Take
Ibis mirror, for example, which is f ramed in hundreds of razor clams Thomas Boog doesn't know
how many exactly, but that's not what mterests hlm What dees interest hlm, on the other hand,
is never repeatmg a design, and bis store is the perfect example of that He never makes the same
object twice, and produces "tailor-made" products for interior decorators and designers And of
course individual customers "/ work with people who enjoy quality, tasteful products, who know
that shells are one of the world's oldest mater/aïs I prefet working for English-speaking clients I
love Amencans They appreciate hand-made custom work and don'f like anythmg too flashy"
Everythmg hère is hand-crafted, not only usmg shells, but matériels like deer antlers and pme
cônes Boog concludes with a smile "And don'tforget, shells were used as the first coins" As if
we needed convincmg Which we don't the indescent world of shells is enough for us'
Thomas Boog. 52, rue de Bourgogne, 7th. Tel. 0143173003. www.thomasboog.com
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Hat's off to Maison Saint Lager!
ledidn'texpectittobesuchabigsuccessl"say
Clémentine, Juliette and Agathe, three young
designers in their early thirties, who get a real
sparkle in their eyes as soon as they start talkmg about their adventure Because that's exactly what openmg a hai shop today is "Of
course, we mamly caler for weddings," explam the three young
women "And that's one of the reasons we opened up in May, a
favorite time forweddings "All of their hats are made-to-measure
and on-demand They certamly have the qualifications to deal with
demanding customers two of them have vocational training
certifiâtes in fashion and hat-making, while a third has a degree
in architecture Despite the fact that supplier numbers are
dwindlmg and hat-making is a dymg art, they f irmly believe in the
future "We didn'tgo into ths business forthe money, but because
we love doing it, to keep this expertise al/ve, and because it's gréât
to work with your hands And who knows, maybe well pass our
expertise onto someone elsa one day " ln the meantime, they
have lots of projects on the go, under the supervision of the sons
of Helene de Saint Lager, who have taken on the business They
talk about ready-to-wear hats and special orders and have high
hopes that one day hat wearers won't necessanly be headmg
down the aisle And if all the hats on display in the store front are
anythmg to go by, they certamly have faith in the future!
// \
The Wood Alchemist: the right chemistry
A
lthough there's nothing f lashy about this store, it somehow seems
to shine fram within Stand in front of the wmdow for a moment
and feel the gentle glow of the wooden f urniture displayed there
The Wood Alchemist only works with wood, particularly oak Nothing
very original about that, we hear you say Except that this business, as
a sign above the door makes clear, uses " 16th century Italien and French
master woodworkmg techniques" Nothing less Established by a wood
enthusiast, The Wood Alchemist is dedicated to revivmg the ancient
art of woodworkmg, which mcludes the use of mortice and tenon joints,
hand-crafting from start to finish, and respect for a more traditional
approach to wood, which needs to retain rts imperfect form, as if to
reveal the hand that worked it The Wood Alchemist also employs
traditional tannins and varnishes to produce a unique shine that has a
history all of its own
/\
Maison Saint Lager. 29, rue de Bourgogne, 7th.
Tel. 0983286028. www.helenedesaintlager.com
The Wood Alchemist. 42 bis, rue de Bourgogne, 7th. Tel. 0663238863.
www.thewoodalchemist.com
Maryse's scented adventures in Paris
f Colette and Mimi Pinson were still around, you can guarantee they would love this store1 And
that's no coïncidence, because that's exactly what ils owner set out to do Standing over her
delicately scented cases, Maryse leaves you in no doubt about her inspiration Parisien adventures,
^ the capitale monuments, feminine élégance, and all of these special occasions - birth, marriage that make life so wonderful What makes Maryse so original, on the other hand, are her small scented
sachets, which she makes using only the finest material satin and Liberty fabncs, decorated with
small fabric flowers and minuscule perfumed pearls She produces these gems in Bagneux, France,
sells them around the world, and showcases her work in luxury hotels (a headscarf and accompanying scented card are currently in the pipeline) When you discover one of Maryse's objects, you
feel the same émotion as you would on discovenng an object forgotten in an old drawer, hidden away
by your grandmother when, as a young girl, she was secretly head over heels in love
***** ' Maryse à Paris. 43, rue de Bourgogne, 7th. Tel. 0145516402. www.maryseaparis.fr
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Relaxation and glamor at the Spa Adriana Karembeu
W
bat a surprise i Although the rue de Bourgogne nas always had
a twinkle in its eye, it Nas shined even bnghter since Adriana
Karembeu arnved on the scene in September 2011 This top
model has taken it upon herself to reveal her beauty secrets fram the
comfort of her very own spa Thistall beautiful blond wanted her first
Paris spa to be not only glamorous but effective tao Which is precisely
what she's achieved with her perfectly equipped cabms, soft lighting,
three charmmg young women at reception (for a dose of glamor) and
the spa s own products and expert treatments (for optimal effect) Some
mightthmkthatthespa is simply a ruse, and that Adriana Karembeu lent
it her name, rather than her experience Nothing Gould be further fram
the truth not only dees this young woman know exactly what she's
talkmg about - she studied médiane for three years and has an in-depth
knowledge of dermatology - her ambitions go much further than that,
and over the coming years she plans to open three hundred spas in
Sunêlia luxury campsites These plans took a step closer to becoming
reality when she set up her own laboratory in association with Alain
Legout, providmg her with the opportunity to develop a complète range
of beauty, make-up, hair, sun and perfume products under her own name
Her entire range contams silicium plus, an antioxidant, anti ageing ingrédient and varies according to the seasons cardamom and cocoa for
winter, citrus fruits and green tea for spring, Seville oranges and poppy
for summer, and sweet grapes for fall And the results are guaranteed,
if the dazzlmg beauty of lis creator is anything to go by1
Spa Adriana Karembeu Paris-Invalides. 57, rue de Bourgogne, 7th.
Tel. OI 40620000. www.akd.fr
IF Concept, from accessories to essentials
One object can often hide another Or in the case of eur research, one store led to another,
and we found ourselves entermg this strange
establishment, based around a concept that's a
little difficult to grasp yet impossible to resist The
; products - dresses, bags, hats and jewelry - are
very appealing, as are the pnces The owner, Cars
Puengthong, as she tells you almost on entermg,
I cornes from Thailand, just like some of her prodLCts Or to be more spécifie, all of the clothes, bags
and hats are made in France, while the jewelry
cornes from Thailand, where they are made by her
sister Tong These unique items made from
precious stones and original matériels, each one
nore creative and tempting than the last, are werth
lingermg over on the first floor before you wander down to the basement where - surprise,
surprise-there's a Thaï massage parler "Jo start with, it wasjust fbrme/'explams Cara
Puengthong, "than I decided to share it with the other store ouvriers, and word of mouth did
the rest Now customers can enjoy a massage with warin essential oils or hot herb sachets "
Which is fitting, because there's nothing more essentiel than a visit to this store1
IF Concept 32, rue de Bourgogne, 7th. Tel. OI 53599234. www.ifconceptparis.com
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