Hiking in the Dolomiti Near Cortina d`Ampezzo by Steve Ford These

Transcription

Hiking in the Dolomiti Near Cortina d'Ampezzo
by Steve Ford
These hiking directions were originally provided by Jorg Wiltz of OnTop Mountaineering. OnTop
specializes in custom guided trips for climbers and other adventurers. Originally we were
attracted to the Dolomite mountains of northeastern Italy by the spectacular scenes of the Via
Ferrata treks that are one of OnTop's specialties. We are avid hikers, but we don't have quite
the right constitution for the level of exposure presented by Via Ferrata routes. So we asked
OnTop to provide us hiking directions that would guide us into some of the same spectacular
areas on more "tame" terrain. OnTop provided a comprehensive plan, including the hiking
directions, rifugio and hotel bookings, and taxi arraignments. We are very happy with the plan
they provided, and this document includes their hiking directions as well as our photos and
commentary on our experiences.
We spent 8 days and 7 nights in the Cortina
d'Ampezzo area in late September and had the
good fortune to have absolutely beautiful
weather. We were also happy to discover that
the crowds who frequent this area in the
summer and winter seasons had substantially
diminished at this time.
To put our comments in context, I will provide a
little info on our physical condition. We, Ellen
and I, are both 59. Neither of us is in tip top
physical condition, but as I said, we are avid
hikers and we do make an effort to stay active.
In anticipation of this hike we did a number of
"training" hikes in the Pacific Northwest where
we live. Note: At her request, no recognizable
photos of Ellen are shown.
Steve (Ellen cropped out at her request)
Our Itinerary
Day 1 Arrive Cortina, stay at Hotel Villa Alpina
Day 2 Taxi to Malga Ra Stua, then hike to Rifugio Lavarella
Day3 Rifugio Lavarella to Rifugio Lagazuoi
Day 4 Rifugio Lagazuoi to Rifugio Croda da Lago
Day 5 Hike back into Cortina, stay at Hotel Villa Alpina
Day 6 Taxi to Rifugio Aronzo, then hike to the Buellelejoch Hut
Day 7 Return to Rifugio Aronzo via a different route, return to Cortina by Taxi and stay at Hotel
Villa Alpina
OnTop recommended a different exit route which we did not use because it was longer
and we were a bit foot-sore.
Day 8 Breakfast at the Hotel Villa Alpina, then depart Cortina.
Our package included Breakfast at the Hotel Villa Alpina, and half pension at the rifugios. For
those who don't know, half pension means breakfast and dinner (with some limitations on
choice for dinner). All of the food was great.
Day 1 - Arrive in Cortina d'Ampezzo
No hiking, just check in to the Hotel Villa Alpina, host Elio Zardini
Via Roma 72, I – 32043 Cortina, Italy
phone (+39) 0436 - 24183310
The room was quite comfortable and spacious.
No shower, but after a long hike a nice soak in a
tub of hot water was more to my liking anyway
(there was this spray gizmo that you see
everywhere in Europe that would provide a
shower of sorts). Also, they were very
accommodating in letting us keep our extra
luggage at the hotel while we were hiking.
There are several places Jorg recommends for
dinner (all are listed in the appendix at the end).
• We had dinner twice at Brunsin, just
across the street and 50 meters uphill
from the Villa Alpina Hotel. The food was
excellent, the service was very good and
friendly, and the prices were quite
reasonable.
Hotel Villa Alpina
• We had a lunch and a dinner at 5 Torre,
about half way up the pedestrian walkway on the right. It's a little off the main drag, so
you have to look for it. Great Pizza! The other food was quite good too.
• We had really great pizza at Croda, just at the beginning of the pedestrian mall in the
main street when entering from the north (opposite end from the hotel).
We bought lunch supplies and various other odds and ends at the Cortina Cooperativa (also
found on the pedestrian mall), a kind of all-in-one department store / grocery store.
We loved our taxi driver, Sandro Pompanin.
A very friendly guy, and always very prompt.
(+39) 336 - 494682
[email protected]
Note: The best maps for these hikes are by
TABACCO (www.tabaccoeditrice.com)
Days 2, 3, 4, & 5 - Cortina d'Ampezzo e
Dolomiti Ampezzane, Map #03, 1:25,000 scale
Days 6 & 7 - Sextener Dolomiten - Dolomiti di
Sesto, Map #010, 1:25,000 scale
They are available online from several outlets,
and I am pretty sure they are available in
Cortina (perhaps at the Cooperativa).
Sandro Pompanin
Day 2 - Taxi to Malga Ra Stua, then hike to Rifugio Lavarella
Note: OnTop's hiking directions are shown in blue text, while our commentary is in black.
A) Sandro picked us up at 8:30 delivering us to Malga Ra Stua at 9:00.
B) From Ra Stua (1668 m) follow the road (marked trail # 9) north for about 1 km (20 min) until
the hiking trail # 9 departs on the left.
This hike begins on a very easy grade through the bucolic pastures of the Ra Stua farm.
After about 1.4 km it turns west ascending more steeply on switchbacks (~0.8km). Most of
the trails we saw throughout this hike were exceptionally well constructed and maintained;
this trail was an especially good example.
C) Follow the trail west past the Fodara Lake to the Rifugio Fodara (1966 m).
After ascending the switchbacks (30 or 40 minutes) the grade is essentially flat until just past
Rifugio Fodara (2.0km).
B & C - 4.2km, 298m u
D) From Rifugio Fodara descend on the dirt road (again # 9) which will be joined by the
Dolomites High Route 1 (marked “1” in a triangle) all the way to the Pederu Hut (1548 m).
Just east of Rifugio Fodara is a trail that parallels the road. This trail covers perhaps 25% of
the decent to Pederu and then reconnects with the road. The road is extremely steep and
has many areas paved with concrete in order to facilitate car traffic (which is rare). Gravel
on the concrete makes the footing on this road rather tricky. We found our hiking poles very
helpful on this stretch. We used the road rather than the trail so we have no information
about the quality of the trail, but I doubt it was worse than the road.
The Pederu Hut can also be reached by car should the weather be very adverse, however it
would mean a 1 hr drive from Cortina at additional cost.
D - 2km, 418m v
E) From Pederu, you can either follow the dirt road (closed to public traffic) or the hiking trail
marked “7” or “1” southwest all the way to the Lavarella Hut (2042 m).
We used the trail where it was available as we found it more scenic. Shortly after passing a
picnic bench with a Crucifix above it and rounding the bend in the road you will see some
buildings, the furthest of Which is Rifugio Fanes. Near Fanes the road forks, stay with the
right branch for a short distance to Rifugio Lavarella
E - 5.8km, 494m u
Distance:
Ascent:
Descent:
Time:
~12 km (7.5 miles)
792m (2,598 ft)
418m (1,371 ft)
5.5 hours including ~1/2 hour for lunch and resting.
Photos from the hike from Malga Ra Stua to Rifugio Lavarella
The hike begins at Malga Ra Stua.
All the trails are well marked with these signs.
Almost all of the trails were very well
maintained. This particular trail is
exceptionally good.
Rifugio Fodara
Looking back at Rifugio Pederu at the bottom of the valley.
The road in the foreground parallels the trail we took. A small piece of the road descending
from Fodara to Pederu can be seen just to the right of Pederu.
Rifugio Lavarella, a sight for sore feet.
Lavarella had very nice private rooms.
Day 3 - Rifugio Lavarella to Rifugio Lagazuoi
Note: If you are having trouble trying
to figure out how to pronounce
Lagazuoi, the phonetic spelling would
be something like this: lagatswoy
A) From the Lavarella Hut (2042 m)
follow the hiking trail marked 7 and
12 east using a couple of little
bridges to cross creeks and little
lakes until you hit the dirt road
marked 11 climbing to the Passo
de Limo (2174 m).
B) From there it’s a casual and
almost level trail hike south along
trail 11 through high pasture
meadows with grazing cows and
horses to the junction with trail
#20b (2117 m).
A & B - 5.7km, 132m u, 57m v
C) Turn off of trail # 11 onto trail 20b
and “1” to your left headed to the
Forcella di Lago (2486 m).
Bailout Option see Opt-1
D) From Forcella di Lago a short but
steep descent leads to the
Lagazuoi Lake (2182 m). Recently
rebuilt trail but still rock fall hazard
– don’t linger, especially when
walking underneath the rock face
just before reaching the Lagazuoi
Lake (2182).
This is another example of a very
well made trail, and it's a good
thing because this is one of the
steepest trail decents I have ever
seen. There were a jillion
switchbacks. The trail on the map
in the area of Lagazuoi Lake
doesn't quite match what we found
when we got there, but everything
was very well marked.
The Lake makes for a beautiful
pick-nick spot.
We opted to have lunch on a bluff
above the lake near some old
stone structures, saving a little bit
of decent / re-ascent.
C & D - 3.2km, 369m u, 304m v
E) From the lake follow # 20
(remnants of Austrian WW1 supply
lines and cable ways visible) all
the way to the summit of the
Piccolo Lagazuoi (2752 m), where
you will find the Lagazuoi Hut.
The last bit of the trail leads along
the Lagazuoi Ridge, which is set
up as an open air museum and
shows the restored positions of the
Austrian / Tyrolean defenders
during WW1.
OnTop offers some optional hikes
after arriving at Lagazuoi,
see Opt-2.
Distance:
Ascent:
Descent:
Time:
~12.7 km (7.9 miles)
1,071 m (3,514 ft)
418m (1,371 ft)
7 hours including lunch and
resting.
E - 2.8km, 570m u
Photos from the hike from Rifugio Lavarella to Rifugio Lagazuoi
Looking back at Lavarella from the crest of
the ridge near Passo de Limo. A quick ascent.
We didn't see any cows but these horses
had very thick fur.
The lovely scenery on the trail between Passo de Limo and the junction with trail #20b.
Enjoy the flatness while you can, because once you get to trail #20b
it's steep grades from there to Lagazuoi.
You see these trail markers everywhere.
From the bottom of 20b it was clear we were
going through this notch. It was the only
logical way to get through.
Looking back from Forcella di Lago
at the trail we had just ascended.
Looking ahead...
We are going down THAT ?!?!?!?
Steep!!! That's an understatement!
Just a few of the well made switchbacks
descending to Lagazuoi Lake.
Our lunch spot is on the far side of the lake.
Looking back at some of those switchbacks.
A few people can be seen in the enlargement.
The scene from our lunch spot.
After lunch we look up to see our destination,
the gondola house at Lagazuoi.
Now THIS is the way to relax after a long day's hike!
With scenery like this in every direction,
Lagazuoi was the most visually spectacular place we stayed.
Day 4 - Rifugio Lagazuoi to Rifugio Croda da Lago (Palmieri)
OnTop offers numerous route options for this day. Alternatives will be listed in the options
section at the end of this document, the following is the hike we did:
A) We descended from Lagazuoi via the gondola saving our knees from 3 km and 643 m
(2,110 ft) of descent.
B) From Falzarego Pass take 441 southeast to the Forcella Averau (2435 m), short but gravelly
descent and contour around the south face of the Averau to the Averau Hut (2413 m).
Careful for rock fall, there might be rock climbers in the face above you.
The first part of this trail is quite simple, basically just hiking up what are ski slopes in the
winter. A little ways before Forcella Averau the trail enters a couple of narrow rocky slots
where the trail turns into a rock scramble.
C) You could have lunch at Rifugio Averau but we strongly recommend climbing the extra 30
minutes up to the Nuvolau summit (2575 meters) to visit the oldest hut in the Dolomites.
Enjoy one of the best views of the range, eye to eye with the huge peaks of the Civetta and
the Monte Pelmo immediately to the south. Say hello from us to hut keepers Mansueto and
Giovanna Siorpaes (originally named Jo-Anne and she is from Vancouver, their daughter
Wendy skis for the Italian National team in alpine downhill).
We opted to keep going, and have lunch at Passo Giau (phonectic pronunciation: Jow)
rather than going up to Rifugio Nuvolau because there were about 70 students that took that
option and we thought it would be a bit crowded, and because we knew this would be an
especially long day for us, so it was a way to reduce the mileage a bit.
B - 3.5km, 330m u, 22m v
D) Descend to the south on the road (464), and then left
onto 452 south to Passo Giau (2236 m). Again, there
is a Rifugio at the Pass that offers food and shelter,
should the weather be bad.
This trail was well marked like the others, but just
before Passo Giau the trail passes into a bolder field
between the edge of the grassy slopes and the cliffs
above the pass. The trail seem to split into lots of
tributaries in the bolder field and somehow we lost
the real trail. Seeing a microwave station just above
the pass we knew the trail would pass by that, so we
scrambled our way over to that and picked up the
trail there. You may want to stay especially alert for
those red and white stone markers in this area.
D - 3.0, 177m v
E) Cross the road and follow a beautiful high level variation of the Dolomites high route “1”
southeast on trail 436 all the way to the Forcella Ambrizola via the Forcella Giau.
This part of the route covers a lot of ground with a lot of terrain variety. The first half km is
quite level on very benign terrain, then over the next half km it continues contouring across a
very steep slope until arriving at Forcella de Col Piombin. From there is slowly descends
until it turns up again for the ascent of Forcella Giau. This was a fairly short ascent, but the
trail was muddy and slippery. With the dark clouds moving in and the poor trail conditions it
felt a bit like we were climbing Mt. Doom and we wondered what sort of descent we might
find on the other side of the pass. Much to our delight, we discovered a sort of high plateau
with gently rolling pastures and a very gentle descent. Adding to the pleasant surprise the
sun broke through just as we arrived at the top. Picture "The Sound of Music" with Julie
Andrews whirling about on a high Tyrolean pasture.
E - 4.9 km, 244m u, 203m v
F) A mellow descent leads us from Forcella
Ambrizzola north on 434 (and back on the regular
“1”) underneath the rock towers of the Croda da
Lago (2046m) to the lake and the hut with the same
name.
Distance: ~13.4 km (8.3 miles)
Ascent: 574 m (1,883 ft)
Descent: 633 m (2,077 ft)
Time: ~8 hours (Best guess, forgot to record duration)
F - 2 km, 231 v
Photos from the hike from Rifugio Lagazuoi to Rifugio Croda da Lago
This shows the area encompassed by the hike on this day. The red line indicates the trail route
from Passo Falzarego to Forcella Averau. The route then goes around the Averau, down to
Passo Giau, over Forcella Giau, and finally over to the far side of Croda da Lago.
Looking back at Lagazuoi from the area near Forcella Averau.
This army of school kids passed us just before
we got to Rifugio Averau, and then headed for
Rifugio Nuvolau, which is one reason we
decided not to have lunch at Rifugio Nuvolau.
A signpost at Forcella Nuvolau with the
Averau in the background.
We saw this red leaf plant pretty much
everywhere, and this hill was completely
covered with it.
Looking back at the Averau and Rifugio
Averau
We saw some climbers on Ra Gusela just before arriving at Passo Giau.
Looking at Passo Giau and many of the features we had just hiked past.
Looking back from Forcella Giau. Passo Giau is just out of view on the far left.
Lagazuoi is hidden behind Ra Gusela, the large peak on the left.
After the steep and gloomy ascent of
Forcella Giau we were delighted to find this
lovely gently descending high pasture.
Forcella Ambrizzola can be seen just to the
left of the peak in the distance.
Croda da Lago,
after crossing Forcella Ambizzola
Looking down from Forcella Ambrizzola toward Rigugio Croda da Lago.
Cortina can bee seen in the distance.
The lake.
Rifugio Croda da Lago
Day 5 - Rifugio Croda da Lago (Palmieri) to Cortina
A) Follow trail 431 north all the way to Rifugio Lago D’Ayal.
The trails on this hike were generally the best constructed
and maintained trials we have ever seen, however this
particular trail was the worst one we saw anywhere in this
area. Most of the trail was in fairly good condition, although
very steep (guessing 20% to 30% grade). There was one
section of this trail that was very badly washed out. It was
especially steep, perhaps a 50% grade, and the washed out
section was quite long, maybe as much as a half km. It was
passable, but it was very slow going.
B) From there a short distance on the 430 road and then north
on the 428 road to Mortisa, then through fields on the way
into Cortina.
A - 4km, 634m v
B - 4.4km, 262m v
Photos from the hike from Rifugio Croda da Lago to Cortina
This trail starts out much like the others we
saw in other areas.
Somewhere in the middle about a half km
of very steep trail is badly washed out.
After we passed Rifugio Lago de Aial the trail
turned into a typical well maintained road.
We emerge from the forest to see this
beautiful pasture land with Cortina in sight.
The road leads us through Mortisa.
Mortisa is a delightful little town.
Leaving Mortisa we see Cortina.
This road leads into Cortina very near
the Hotel Villa Apina.
Crossing the river we enter Cortina.
The view from our room in Hotel Villa Alpina.
We were in those fields just 30 minutes earlier.
Day 6 - Rifugio Auronzo –Buellelejoch Huette (Rifugio Pian di Cengia)
A) Sandro picked us up at 8:30 delivering us to Refugio Auronzo.
B) From the parking lot west of Auronzo Hut, follow trail 105 (also marked as Dolomites High
Route number 4). This trail curves around the west flank of the peaks known as Tre Cime di
Lavaredo (Drei Zinnen). On the north side of Tre Cime the trail descends gently providing
tremendous views of the peaks. Then a short ascent leads to Rifugio Locatelli (Drei Zinnen
Hut), a good place for lunch. A fun little side trip might be to explore the Austrian positions
(largely tunnels – bring a headlamp) following the “Innerkofler” via ferrata towards the
Paternkofel (Monte Paterno) but only until the last tunnel, from where you should retrace
your steps and certainly turn around any time, should you get uncomfortable with the terrain.
B - 4.9 km, 126m v, 211m u
C) From Rifugio Locatelli stay on the North side of the Paternkofel (Mt. Paterno) on trail 101 to
get to the Bullelejoch Hut (Rifugio Pian di Cengia). Bullelejoch is the smallest and for some,
the nicest hut of the Sexten Dolomites! Hut keepers Hubert and Greti will spoil you with
excellent tirolian cuisine! If you are given a choice to sleep in the downstairs common room,
referred to as “notlager” = emergency dorm, you might prefer it over the regular dorm
upstairs, which is pretty small but clean and cozy!
For us this seemed like more of a "true" rifugio experience. All of the other rifugios we
stayed in were significantly larger with a few more amenities, but we thought Bullelejoch was
absolutely charming. Yes it is small, but it was a supreme example of efficient use of space.
The ambiance was delightful, the hosts were very friendly and extraordinarily welcoming,
and the food was some of the best we had anywhere in Italy. We had a chance to visit with
Stephi, Hubert & Greti's daughter, a delightful young woman raised in this mountain
paradise from the earliest months of her life. Stephi made us feel right a home in her home.
C - 3.1 km, 123m u
Distance: ~8 km (5 miles)
Ascent: 334 m (1,096 ft)
Descent: 126 m (413 ft)
Time: 4.75 hours (including lunch)
Photos from the hike from Rifugio Auronzo to Bullelejoch Hut
The view from the overlook where
trail 105 has just come around the
northwest side of Tre Cime (on the right),
Mt. Paterno in the distance.
Another view from the same overlook.
Tre Cime di Lavaredo
The trail switchbacking down into the gorge on
the left is the exit route for the following day
that OnTop suggests (we did not go this way).
Rifugio Locatelli from a distance.
The trail ascends just before arriving
at Rifugio Locatelli
Rifugio Locatelli
Leaving Rifugio Locatelli we see this stretch of trail 101 that contours across
a steep slope for at least 1.5 km before ascending Forcella Pian di Cengia.
The view from trail 101.
The view from trail 101.
Ascending Forcella Pian di Cengia
(Bullele Joch).
Bullelejoch Hut or Rifugio Pian di Cengia.
Prayer flags near Bullelejoch Hut.
Bullelejoch Hut looks right out at this peak.
Not sure which one it is, perhaps Mt. Cengia.
The bar at Bullelejoch.
There were 5 of these cozy nooks
inside Bullelejoch.
In spite of being the smallest and most remote
rifugio we stayed in, Bullelejoch had the best
food. They had an apple strudel that was
better than any I have tasted anywhere.
Greti & Stephi were very welcoming hosts.
Unfortunately, we didn't meet Hubert, who was
picking up supplies for a big celebration that
was to take place the day we departed.
Day 7 - Buellelejoch Huette (Rifugio Pian di Cengia) - Rifugio Auronzo
A) At this point we were ready for a break and the route suggested by OnTop was fairly long for
this day. So we opted to return to Rifugio Auronzo via trail 104. OnTop's suggested route is
included in the optional routes listed at the end of this document.
B) A call to Sandro and he picked us up within 30 minutes, returning us to Hotel Villa Alpina.
A - 6 km, 378m v, 170m u
Distance: ~6 km (3.7 miles)
Ascent: 170 m (558 ft)
Descent: 378 m (1,240 ft)
Time: 2.5 hours
Photos from the hike from Bullelejoch Hut to Rifugio Auronzo
Leaving Bullelejock in the fog.
A convention of crows.
Returning to Forcella Pian di Cengia
(Bullele Joch).
The hand carved crucifix at the
Forcella Pian di Cengia. We saw many of
these troughout our 6 days of hiking.
The fog adds mystery to
the mountain scenery.
The fog adds mystery to
the mountain scenery.
I didn't realize it until after he had passed, but I
am quite sure this was Hubert driving a small
tractor pulling a trailer with supplies for the
celebration at Bullelejoch.
The southeast side of Cime Piccola,
the smallest of the Tre Cime peaks, adjacent
to Forcella Lavaredo.
This pasture filled with various graffiti made by piling stones can be seen from
the overlook at Rifugio Auronzo. If you are going to do graffiti in a mountain paradise,
I guess this is the way to do it.
To OnTop Mountaineering we offer a toast...
Thanks for helping us with this FANTASTIC adventure!

Hiking in the Dolomiti Near Cortina d`Ampezzo by Steve Ford These

Transcription

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