Jarlshof Stack – Sumburgh

Jarlshof Stack – Sumburgh
Height: 6‐10m
Walk in: 500m from car park
Grid Reference: HU 401 090
Tides: Accessible 1 hour either side of low tide. Base non‐tidal in calm seas.
Geology: Sandstone
Grades: Mod‐HVS
A small sandstone sea stack with a collection of low to mid grade route and scope for more lines to be climbed and bouldered. The rock is generally sound although some sections are a little soft or brittle. Bring a full rack of nuts
and cams, and some slings for belays or perhaps a bouldering mat. Check for nesting birds from the path before committing to a route.
Jarlshof
Stack
Approach:
Park at the Sumburgh hotel and pick up the coastal path signed from the entrance to Jarlshof. Once the stack comes into view drop down and boulder hop across the tidal rocks as shown, a step left or a trickier sea level traverse right leads to the large base.
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1
2
3
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5
6
4. Tammie tap shoes
Diff
Between the 2 sandy crack lines
HVS 5a
1. Jarlshof Yugo
MVS 4a 5. Scootie Alan
Climb the arete and pass the roof on the right Make a thin move to an undercut under the roof. Move right onto the face and finish continuing up the arete.
over the prow.
2. Cormorant Crack
HS 3c
6. Bee’s Knees
Diff
The obvious crack right of the arete.
Using honeycomb holds pull up and follow the 3. Guillimot Groove
HVD
cracks and ledges to the top
The slabby open book corner
6
Descent
7
6. Bee’s Knees
Diff
Using honeycomb holds pull up and follow the cracks and ledges to the top.
Descent
Mod
Up and down the easy angled slab with ample foot and hand holds.
7. ‘Y’ so sad
VDiff
Start at the right hand side of the slab, climb into the niche and traverse right to the wide crack or alternatively even further right to the even wider crack (VDiff).
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8
? Probably HVS?
Start in the jamming crack place gear under the roof and reach out left to pull up into the crack above.
8. Bonxie Biceps
VS 5a
Start under the right hand end of the large roof, make an interesting move to get established on the right hand side of the arete and jam up the large ‘L’ shaped crack
There is plenty of scope for routes on this and the north side of the stack, the central crack line being most obvious but there were Fulmars chicks at the top creating an additional hazard at the time of visiting.
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Approach
Further along the coast there are several areas of what appears to be good quality sandstone that would probably give lots of scope for new routes all easily accessible from the coastal path.