2010 Drapery Certification Manual v2

Transcription

Drapery Certification Manual
Nov 2010
Everything you need to know about drapery.
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Introduction
Custom-made window coverings are made to the exact size and specifications. Since few clients actually
know how to make custom draperies, a designer is asked to design the product the client wants with fabrics
and options from the Custom Decorator Drapery Program.
The challenge is to create a beautiful combination of texture, shape, and space in relation to walls, floor, furniture, and furnishings that meets the client’s expectations, while keeping the design simple and uncomplicated.
This training guide defines Custom Decorators standards for draperies and what clients can expect to receive
when they order. How the finished product is going to look in your clients’ home is the most important part of
the entire job. This is intended with the goal in mind the designer will be able to use this information to create
realistic, clear design expectations with each client.
Purpose of Manual:
• The content of this training guide is designed to assist in the selection and specification of most common
drapery treatments.
• To ensure client expectations are met, a designer needs to communicate this information effectively to the
client, the workroom, and the installer.
The Custom Difference
Custom-Made
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Copyright © 2008 Custom Decorators
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Individualized and personalized designer service:
Designers go to clients homes and makes recommendations based on the clients needs and their
design expertise!
Custom-made to fit any window in the colors/
fabrics of your choice, not mass produced
Unlimited options for fabric, lining and design details
Meticulously sewn and packaged
Quality control: fabric and finished product inspected by workroom professionals
Custom fullness, 2-1/2 to 1 and 3 to 1
Professional measuring and installation
Ready-Made
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vs.
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No personal design service!
Machine manufactured & mass produced
Lack of quality control
Packaged for mass merchandising
Few sizes available
Less fullness, fewer styles
No options for fabric, lining and design
details
Minimal fabric and color choices
No professional service for measuring or
installation.
Custom Decorators Drapery Program
Limited program and vendors
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Selected styles that are the most popular and offer the highest quality for your client
Defined program eliminates custom design by only ordering
styles available through charted program.
The national workrooms will accept quote requests for styles
that are within the program, but the specifications are outside
of what is offered.
No custom drawings and quotes are allowed.
National Workrooms
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No Local Workrooms are available for new designers', you
must either use the national workrooms such as Carole Fabrics or Kasmir
Product Offering
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Drapery Panels & Headings
Top Treatments
• Swags
• Valances
• Cornices
Roman Shades
Bedding & Accessories
No upholstery
Channels and Vendors
Each of our channels approves the vendors for the program. Always refer to your Sell Factor sheet for clarification on the product offered through each channel.
Designer Certification & Responsibilities
In order to sell Drapery each designer must go through the certification process. This includes the following:
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Attending the 3-Step Certification Series
Passing the Certification Test
• After you have been certified you will receive important documents and your Sales Manager will
make arrangement to put you in rotation!
You must review your first order with the Drapery Product Manager or your Sales Manager.
Additional suggested webinar: DSC Hi-Tech Shades, CaroleNet, Hardware vendors
Designer Responsibilities
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Maintain current price lists and sample books.
Reserve stock prior to ordering and maintain reserve.
Attend fabric line reviews and product trainings whenever available.
Proactively contact the vendor for any product related questions.
Set clear expectations with the client. Explain fabric, style and product characteristics, etc.
Submit paperwork to Order Entry legibly and in the most efficient manner possible
Assist Client Services and Installation on any issues as requested within 48 hours
Designer performance is reviewed and designers with repeated challenges are removed
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Selling the Drapery Job
As a general rule, we recommend outlining the basic details of every treatment for the client on the Preparing
for Drapery Installation Form and the Sales Contract as appropriate. We also recommend learning workroom
and installation standards before ordering a new treatment for any client. Practices and terminology may vary
and we need to be sure we have communicated the product information clearly. Keep to standard treatments and keep it simple! Focus on the beauty of the fabrics.
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Browse through interior design magazines such as House Beautiful, Interior Design, Veranda, Traditional
Homes, Metropolitan Homes, Elle Décor, Window Fashions Magazine and Draperies & Window Coverings.
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Feel confident! Learn your Product Knowledge and it will help you design windows that can be easily installed and operate smoothly.
KISS– Keep it Solution Selling
Solve Window Problems
Most clients know little about custom draperies, as they do not understand fullness, how
rod placement can enhance the look or the many ways a drapery can be functional, as
well as beautiful. The correct window treatment can visually re-proportion the balance between the window
and the wall; and should coordinate with the rest of the room and furnishings.
Proportion is the key factor when recommending ways to treat a window. Most non-professionals will hang
the rods and the draperies on the frame of the window and never realize the rods can extend out and/or up, to
give a better look. It is your job to explain how the rod and the draperies will be installed to make them look
perfect in this setting.
Designer Best Practices
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Go through all of your fabric books and choose favorites to keep in your car.
Most Popular Carole Fabrics:
• Smart Window & Window Essentials (sheers)
• Tradewind and Northwind- $15/yard
• BellMead & Bella Vista
• Lighthearted
• Harmony
• Sashay
• Dynasty Trimming
• Soho
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Use a worksheet to detail the order and check your prices twice; 27% of our orders had the wrong
hardware ordered or shipped to the wrong address.
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Be confident in your recommendations by providing benefits and features
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Always offer options to the treatments and different fabrics at different price points
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The majority of drapery problems resulted in our refunding money due to the client not feeling like they
received what they ordered. Set clear expectations with your client. Explain what the treatment will look
like:
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Show them where it will be placed on the wall
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Review stackback and hem length (puddling and draping)
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Review characteristics of the fabric and treatment style
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Soft Shades have posed the most problems in the past. For best results do not order shades that are over
48x72” or that require black-out lining. Use caution when ordering inside mount and be sure your
customer understands there will be a significant light gap and the gaps may showcase their out of square
windows! We do not recommend that you sell Roman Shades as an inside mount.
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Do not quote less than the 8 weeks delivery timeframe on our contract
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Minimum 8-10 weeks delivery to home
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Review all points on the Preparing for Drapery Installation form, especially 800# and your contact info
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Order through CDI’s Order Entry department. You may not use outside resources.
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Why do I need Window Coverings?
Energy Efficiency
Window Fashions have always been “Green”! Just the act of adding window
treatments keeps heated and cooled air protected. Draperies keep out cold air in
the winter and hot air in the summer by adding a thermal lining.
How does drapery act as an energy saving device?
• It can reduce drafts from around a bare, poorly insulated window.
• Add an insulated lining and increase the drapery energy efficiency benefit by
up to 43% or lining with interlining to increase energy efficiency by up to
310%! Adding these custom lining options is a wise investment which will
provide years of savings on your clients energy costs.
• Closing the drapes actually traps some of the draft, and creates a slightly insulated area between the
window and the drapery.
• Add a board mounted valance or cornice top treatment. This helps to reduce the chimney effect by blocking
the air flow at the top of the drapery.
The bottom line is drapery treatments do help to save energy, both in winter and summer. The degree to
which they do this will depend upon many factors. Obviously, a heavy multi-purpose fabric that is lined will
produce better results than an airy casement. The US Department of Energy’s Energy Efficiency and
Renewable Energy website states most conventional draperies can reduce heat loss from a warm room up to
10% when drawn during cold weather. By combining techniques to reduce heat exchange such as adding a
cornice and drapery over a blind or shade you can reduce heat loss by as much as 25%. This savings will carry
over year after year. Just like clothing, if you want to stay warm, add layers!
The right window treatments can:
• Make a narrow window look wider or small windows appear larger by extending the rod on each side.
• Make off-center windows appear centered by extending drapery to balance the wall area on both sides.
• Make rooms with low ceilings (90” to 96”) appear higher by hanging the draperies up to the ceiling.
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Make two different-size windows in a room look the same by extending the smaller window treatment to
equal the size of the larger window.
Make a large room look cozier and warmer, by using a wall-to-wall and ceiling-to-floor treatment. This will
create an unbroken area of coverage and give the effect of a cozier room.
Hide imperfect walls with construction blemishes.
Privacy, view and light control options
• Plan for outside mounted treatments to clear the
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glass when in the fully open position for maximum
view, ventilation and light during the day.
Fully functional lined treatments provide privacy to
the room at night and when opened during the day
they will allow as much light and air into the room as
needed.
Maintain an attractive view by using sheer fabrics
that can softly diffuse the full rays of the sun.
Guarantee darkness to the room by adding a
blackout lining. Blackout linings are completely
opaque and will not let any light filter through the
drapery into the room. This lining is often used in
hotels and motels to allow their customers to sleep
during the day if they wish.
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Drapery Heading Styles
Components to a Drapery Panel– Features and Benefits
Heading– several basic heading styles
structured and detailed top portion of a panel with 4” buckram for extra
pleat stability, custom tacked with extra thread to ensure pleats will not
fall out and lose their shape—shown as Goblet Pleat
Double Turned Heading
to ensure drapery strength
and body
Blind Stitched Hems
finished sides and bottom
edges of a panel
Lining
fabric sewn to back
of drapery for sun
protection and body
Interlining
a white cotton flannel
inserted between face
fabric and lining that
provides extra body
and insulation
Stria Banding Upgrade
a horizontal band of color
Weighted Seams
Double-turned & Blind Stitch
Bottom Hem
standard hem where fabric is
turned over twice, so the raw
edge is completely encased
small metal discs placed
in hems for better hang
appeal
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Drapery Heading Styles
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The structured and detailed top portion of a panel is called a heading style. To guarantee the pleats hold their
shape, buckram or stiffener may be added. Heading styles range from pleated, shirred, to plain top styles.
French Pleat:
Traditional styling with pleats pinched to create a fan effect. Used most often on traversing draperies, this simple treatment easily completes the look when used under
valances or over sheers.
⇒ 2 1/2 to 1 Fullness
⇒ Available as 2 or 3 fold pleats
⇒ Suitable for traversing or stationary draperies
⇒ The only heading style suitable for standard traverse rods such as Kirsch Superfine
⇒ 4” buckram heading is standard
⇒ 6” buckram heading is optional, most often used for draperies longer than 90”
Inverted Pleat:
A variation of the traditional pinch pleat where the pleat is tacked at top instead of
bottom of pleat. The result is a less structured, elegant flared look.
⇒ Available as 2 or 3 fold pleats
⇒ Suitable for traversing and stationary draperies
⇒ 4” buckram heading is standard
⇒ 6” buckram heading is optional, most often used for draperies longer than 90”
Grommet Style:
Metal “rings” are installed to provide structure and form. A contemporary alternative
to drapery headings, grommet panels will need to be hand-dressed at time of installation.
⇒ 2-1/2 to 1 Fullness
⇒ Eight grommets per width require a 3 1/2” bracket projection
⇒ Grommet Style heading should not be used on sheers or other lightweight fabrics
⇒ An irregular appearance to both top and bottom hems is to be expected, even if
hems are perfectly straight
⇒ Stationary treatment only to avoid hand dressing every time the drapery is
moved
⇒ Grommets will work with 1 1/4” decorative rods and smaller
⇒ This style is a surcharge option
Goblet Pleat:
A 3 fold pleat is pushed out in the form of a goblet. This type of heading should be
used on stationary panels only, as opening and closing of the draperies will crush the
goblets.
⇒ A 3 fold pleat is pushed out in the form of a goblet
⇒ Stationary treatment only, goblets will crush
⇒ This style is a surcharge for this option
Drapery Heading Styles (continued)
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Ring Top:
Plain, unstructured heading style. Flat top heading styles are not recommended for use with drapery hooks, as they can be hard to draw and take a
large amount of stack space.
⇒ Soft Heading
⇒ Hand dressed on decorative pole
⇒ Stationary treatment to avoid hand dressing
⇒ An irregular appearance to both top and bottom hems is to be expected,
even if hems are perfectly straight
Box or Relaxed Pleat:
Plain, unstructured heading style. Pleats are folded flat and sewn against the
front of the 2 1/2 to 1 Fullness header.
⇒ Soft Heading
⇒ Stationary drapery treatments only, pleats will crush
Shirred/Rod Pocket:
Small gathers of fabric with a sleeve at the top for rod insertion. The look can
be for the traditional or contemporary client depending on rod pocket size.
The chart below lists recommended rod pocket sizes for standard rods.
These recommended pocket sizes ensure the drapery will stay in the stacked
position.
⇒ Gathered at time of installation
⇒ 2 to 1 Fullness recommended for heavy fabrics
⇒ 3 to 1 Fullness always for sheer fabrics
⇒ Best style for tie backs
⇒ Stationary treatment to avoid hand dressing
Rod Pocket Drapery Chart
Rod
Rod Pocket
Recommended Header
Take-Up
1” Sash Rod
1.5”
1”
1/2”
1 3/8” Wood Pole
3”
3”
1”
2” Wood Pole
2 1/4” Wood Pole
4”
4 1/4”
3”
3”
1 1/4”
1 1/2”
4 1/2” Continental
5 1/2”
3 1/2”
4”
3”
1/2”
1/2”
Studio Coordinates Rod
3”
4”
1”
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Valance Styles
Valance Styles
Valances provide elegance by finishing the frame around a window. Valances are short
fabric treatments—flat, pleated or gathered, which cover the top of the window and the
top of any draperies that may hang beneath them. Valances can make a room feel
traditional or contemporary, formal or casual. Functionally, they can serve to hide
hardware, drapery headings, improve insulation, block drafts and increase light control by
capping the top of a drapery. It is unusual to have valances less than 12” or more than
24” high.
Over drapery valance: width must be 2” wider than the under drapery rod
Returns: 3” deeper than the returns of drapery (3/6/9)
This allows for ease of installation and gives a comfortable appearance to the entire
treatment.
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Cornices
Cornices are upholstered wood box-like structures usually made
of wood and upholstered with fabric mounted over draperies to
frame a window. The standard cornice has half-inch cording at
the bottom and the dust cap of the cornice is covered in lining
fabric unless otherwise specified.
Note: Cornices come standard with lining fabric on top of cornice. If you are dealing with a client who has a two story home,
make sure to mark on order that you would like face fabric to be
added across top board of fabric.
This will prevent a white top from
showing.
Straight hem cornices: Is simply a straight horizontal hem
without any curving. This style is
very popular and fits most home
styles. Banding is a common design choice on straight hem cornices.
Shaped hem cornices: Some
shaped patterns elongate meaning that a curve at the bottom of
a cornice will become wider as the cornice becomes wider and
the number of curves will not increase. Other shaped patterns
repeat, which means that a curve at the bottom of a cornice will
be repeated as the cornice becomes wider. The number of
curves will increase as the cornice becomes wider. Always
check your vendor product specifications to see if the shapes
will either repeat or elongate when considering shaped cornice
styles for your
clients. This is
especially important in
rooms with windows of varying
sizes.
Cornice considerations:
⇒ Solid fabrics should be railroaded on cor-
nices.
⇒ Prints are straight cut and seamed to-
gether as needed. Inform your customer of
seams.
⇒ Serious consideration needs to be given to
fabric direction since not all solids will look
the same whether straight cut or railroaded
and not all prints need to be straight cut.
⇒ If a cornice is used with a drapery panel,
the cornice must have the fabric placed on
it the same way that the fabric is running in
the drapery.
⇒ Any cornice that is seamed and is over 40”
wide depending on the return size, will
have 2 seams. Both seams will be toward
the outer edges of the treatment.
⇒ Usually top treatments (board mounted)
over 120” need hinging. Speak to your
installer for his or her suggestions.
⇒ The cording at the bottom hem may need
to be hand smoothed so it lays straight.
⇒ Stripes and plaids are not recom-
mended if your client will be sensitive
to any slight bowing or skewing of the
lines in the pattern, the patterns can easily appear bowed due to inherent fabric
characteristics and the upholstering process.
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Board Mounted and Pole Mounted Valance Styles
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Board Mounted Valances
When ordering a board mounted treatment, verify that you will not have access problems getting the board to the
window. High rise elevators and homes with narrow hallways may not accommodate your treatment, and special arrangements may be required. If the valance board needs to be hinged due to size be sure you add that surcharge to
the order. The valance should be in proportion to the window, never too short or shallow.
Straight hem styles:
Straight hem styles look great with contrast
banding. Self or contrast welt at the top
gives a finished look. Many pleating styles
are available to provide a variety of looks to
this simple style.
Shaped hem styles:
Several shapes are available, shapes
are usually combined with pleats to
give more dimension and interest.
Some steaming or hand dressing may
be needed.
Swag Hem styles (board mounted):
Swag style hems always require dressing at
installation. Swags may originate from pleats
at the top of the board, side of the down leg
boards and may be combined with “bells” in between each swag segment. Fabric direction can
differ, but most are cut on the bias.
Rod Mounted Valances
Ring, Shirred or Tab Top:
A very relaxed look that can add accent to a room without breaking the bank.
Pole Swags: Like board mounted swags, the folds
in the swags need to be dressed by hand at installation. The swag and cascade elements are fabricated
separately. Care should be taken as they are attached to
the pole with Velcro or secured with staples. Always
stand back to look at the swags to be sure the swag
length looks even. Do not specify a pattern with directional orientation as the fabric is cut on the bias.
Poor Boy Swags or Vanessa Scarf:
This treatment has been removed from the Custom Decorators Drapery Program. Consider it discontinued because it is not available to be fabricated. Both of
these treatments are nearly impossible to install correctly and will not look like the
pictures in catalogs. This has resulted in many unhappy customers. Do not sell
these two treatments to any of your clients.
Swags and Cascade
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Swags
They are usually draped into soft,
elegant folds, using fabrics that
drape easily. Among the most impressive of all window treatments,
swags bring distinction and classic
form to any window.
Fabric Direction
Although swags can be made with
the fabric railroaded or straight cut,
the standard manufacturing method
is cut on the bias of the grain to
allow for the smoothest curved folds
and even drape. When working with
patterned goods, the decision on
how to run the fabric affects whether
or not the pattern on the valance will
run in the same direction as the pattern on an under drapery.
It is for these layered treatments, or different treatments in the
same room, that you may consider having the swags cut on
the straight of grain or railroaded.
Specifications
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Standard swags have five to seven folds, are bias cut, and
lined with white lining fabric.
Only the cascades will be either self or contrast lined.
Sheer fabrics should be self-lined.
Cascades should never be lined with silk fabric if they are
exposed to the sun as the silk will deteriorate.
Swags and components are mounted on lining covered
dust-boards, packed carefully so as to minimize wrinkling,
and will arrive in beautiful condition.
Product must be dressed at final installation.
Swag Placement
You must specify swag and cascade layering placement —
Centered, Running Left or Running Right. Cascade can be
layered over or under swags.
Swag—Centered
Straight Cut Swag
This swag was cut on the straight of grain. The
stripes tilt inwards from both sides creating symmetry. It also does not want to drape quite as softly.
This is compensated by bringing the kink in each
fold to the center of the swag.
On the Bias Cut Swag
This swag was cut on the bias. The stripes on
one side tilt inwards. The stripes on the
other run straight up and down. This is a
feature of a bias cut stripe. It is an acceptable look and, with planning, could be set
up in an asymmetrical treatment of two windows.
TIP:
• Light will filter differently when lining swags
with standard lining & cascades with self lining.
• The cascades are double lined and the swags
are single lined. You may line your swags with
heavier lining (satin blackout) or interline the
treatment in order to avoid this issue.
• If the swags are cut on the straight of grain or
railroaded, the folds in the body of the swag
will have “crimps” or sharp points where the
grain of the fabric resists a smooth drape.
Swag—Running Right
Swag—Running Left
Cascades and Layering...
Cascades are tapered folds of fabric at each end of the treatment and are usually 12”-14” wide. Cascade
proportions are best when the cascade finished length is approximately 1.5, 2 or 3 times as long as the long
point on the swag. For example: for a 24” swag long point; 36”, 48” or 72” long cascades will look in proportion. Cascades are usually self-lined or lined with a contrasting decorative fabric. Used as the finishing
touches on each end and are installed underneath or over the swags creating a cascading result.
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Standard cascade length is 36”. Designers specifies how swags and cascades are to be layered.
Carole Fabrics standard length of cascade is 36”, but you can go on to CaroleNet and specify different
dimensions.
Taper begins at long point of swag.
STANDARD 36” LENGTH: If you
are ordering the cascades any
length up to 36”.
No special instructions are necessary.
Fabricator will begin the taper at long point
of the swag.
Cascades 37” TO 63” will typically
have an additional charge.
Special instructions ARE necessary.
Request fabricator to begin the taper 8”
TO 10” from long point of swag.
Cascades 64” TO 99” will typically
have an additional charge.
Special instructions ARE necessary.
Request fabricator to begin the taper 40”
from the bottom of the cascades.
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Valance Special Considerations
Swag shaped hem treatments will have different lengths. Be careful when designing swag style valances of different sizes in the same room or on the same window, explain the length variation to
your client.
Swag and cascade with
natural backlighting.
Shaped hem valance with
cascade and bell, lining is
visible. Seam is visible
when there is backlighting
Pole swag and cascade that was not installed or dressed
properly. Swags should have been hand dressed and situated on the pole so that swag length was even! Designers
should oversee installation when ever possible.
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Roman Shades
Straight Hem Style Fabric Roman Shades
Front fold and Reverse fold:
Flat:
⇒ Select medium weight fabrics
⇒ Select medium weight fabric
with a firm hand and inside
mount or outside mount.
⇒ Patterns will be interrupted
with horizontal sewn folds,
avoid plaids, vertical stripes
may not match at sewn folds,
horizontal repeat becomes
irregular.
⇒ The hourglass effect is minimized, lifting is easier, and
they require less hand dressing because of the horizontal
stiffenters (battens).
with a firm hand and outside
mount.
⇒ Folds will require dressing as
the shade is raised and lowered.
⇒ Hour glassing will occur, can
be as much as 3/8” on either
side.
⇒ Stitch holes where the rings
are sewn on show on this
style, most obviously on flat
roman shades with blackout
lining. The premium blackout lining does a better job of
“healing” the stitch holes but
will not eliminate them.
Hobbled and Waterfall:
with a firm hand and inside or
outside mount are okay.
⇒ Patterns will be interrupted
with horizontal hobbles, avoid
plaids, vertical stripes will not
"match" perfectly as hobbles
billow down the shade.
⇒ Sheer hobbling tape will be
seen on the back and from the
side of the shades.
⇒ The hourglass effect is minimized, lifting is easier, and
they require less hand dressing because of the horizontal
stiffeners (battens).
Straight hem style special considerations...
⇒ Always select Medium Weight Fabrics
⇒ Upholstery weight fabrics, faux suede, velvets, and loose weaves or soft
drape-able fabrics are not suitable.
⇒ Always line straight hem styles to provide additional body and cover-up cording.
⇒ All roman shades require hand dressing. Over time the fabrics will create a mem-
ory of the folds and need less dressing. Front/Reverse Fold and Waterfall shades
with horizontal stiffeners will need the least amount of hand dressing.
⇒ All fabric roman shades will have stitching going through all layers where rings are
sewn on and the amount to which they show depends on fabric and shade style.
The stitches will be greatly noticeable on a flat roman with blackout lining.
⇒ Stacking area: The amount of space taken up by the stack is approximately 1/4 to
1/3 of the total ordered length depending on the shade style and fabric. A minimum allowance for stack on a Flat roman shade is 9". Inside mount applications
will take up considerable glass space. Outside mount applications can be ordered
to stack completely off the window where wall space allows.
⇒ Size Limitations: The operating qualities of the shade are in direct proportion to the
size of the shade, style of shade and fabric. The wider, longer or heavier the
shade; the harder it will be to operate.
⇒ Shades over 94” wide should be divided into two shades with one valance cover-
ing both.
DSC’s HiTech Ultimate Roman
Shade with cellular backing, allows a
62% reduction in heat
or cold transfer. A
SAFE Roman Shade
solution with no cords
exposed to the rear of
the shade.
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Swag Hem Style Fabric Roman Shades– Outside Mount
Slouch, Venice, Soft,, Sheer
Venice and Sheer:
⇒
⇒
⇒
⇒
⇒
with a drape-able hand and outside mount only.
Fabrics will wrinkle as shade
is operated.
Do not select large scale stripes
or plaids.
Permanent folds at the bottom
of the shade create additional
length at the longest part of the
swag.
Finished length is at the top of
the "smile" of the swags.
Hour glassing will be slightly
pronounced due to the casual,
less structured style, but if you
select a fabric with crisp hand
you will see less hour glassing.
Pleated Balloon, Shirred
Balloon and Sheer Pleated
Balloon:
Austrian:
⇒ Select light to medium
⇒
⇒
⇒
⇒
⇒
⇒
weight fabrics with a crisp
hand and outside mount.
Fabrics will wrinkle as
shade is operated.
Avoid large scale patterns,
they will not show well due
to the gathering.
Stitch holes are hardly noticeable
Permanent folds at the bottom of the shade create additional length at the longest
part of the swag.
Finished length is at the top
of the "smile" of the swags.
⇒ Select sheers only and outside
⇒
⇒
⇒
⇒
mount.
Avoid large scale patterns, they
will not show well due to the
gathering.
Permanent length-wise gathers
create a swag effect throughout
the body of the shade.
Permanent gathers at the bottom of the shade create additional length at the longest part
of the swag.
Finished length is at the top of
the "smile" of the swags.
Hour glassing is the most
pronounced on this style.
Swag characteristics….
⇒ Always select Medium Weight Fabrics and outside mount. Swag hem or balloon styles must be outside
mount, because there will be a light gap on the bottom and at sides.
⇒ Do not specify upholstery fabrics, faux suede, velvets, and loose weaves or soft drape-able fab-
rics.
⇒ Shade styles with swag shaped hems will need to be hand dressed each time the shades are raised.
⇒ All fabric roman shades will have stitching going through all layers where rings are sewn on and the
amount to which they show depends on fabric and shade style. The stitches will hardly be noticeable on a
lined Shirred Balloon shade.
⇒ Stacking area: The amount of space taken up by the stack is approximately 1/4 to 1/3 of the total ordered
length depending on the shade style and fabric. A minimum allowance for a Balloon and Austrian shades
will is 1/3 the ordered length. Inside mount applications will take up considerable glass space. Outside
mount applications can be ordered to stack completely off the window where wall space allows.
⇒ See size limitations comments on previous page and also consider that the swag style roman shades
generally have more fabric pleated or gathered and will be considerably heavier, especially with blackout
lining. Balloon shades are the heaviest style, they use the most fabric.
18
Fabric Roman Shades– Special Instructions
Inside or Outside Mount
Inside Mount = Light Gap (can be enhanced by out-of-square windows)
•
Certain fabrics and longer windows will have an hourglass effect exposing even more light gap on
each side. If the window will have draperies or panels in addition to the shade, an INSIDE mount
may be acceptable as the draperies will provide additional privacy and light control.
•
Measuring IM:
•
•
•
Measure width and length 3 times and order using smallest measurement for each.
Actual inside mount deductions change from workroom to workroom, ask the workroom to
ensure you are ordering appropriately.
Carole deduction = 1/4” on width for the board and 0” for the fabric
• Light gaps will still be visible due to natural hour-glassing effect.
• Use the shortest length measurement to ensure that the shade does not rest on the
sill and look sloppy. Loose weave fabrics may sag or
grow in length and are not recommended for roman
shades.
Outside Mount= No Light Gaps
•
•
•
•
If there are no draperies on the window, use an Outside Mount and
extend beyond the frame to avoid light gaps on the sides.
An outside mount allows the shade to stack off the window if mounted
well above the casing.
Swag hem or balloon styles must be outside mount, because there will
be a light gap on the bottom and at sides.
Measuring OB:
•
•
•
•
Measure for the exact coverage area you want.
No deductions
Measure to accommodate hour glassing.
• Minimum 2” on each side= total 4” for a standard 1 1/2”
headrail
• Standard 4” on each side= total 8” for best light control and privacy.
Be sure to cover molding by 1” on each side to ensure hour-glassing does not reveal
molding.
Finished length:
•
•
No deduction on length.
To avoid the sag lines on the shade, deduct 1/8” to
1/4”, depending on fabric stability, so that the weight
bar can hang shades flat.
Sag Lines
•
Characteristic of swag style romans and considered
part of their charm. These could have been ordered
wider to minimize light gap.
Stacking Allowance
The amount of space taken up by the stack is approximately 1/4 to 1/3 of the total ordered length depending
on the shade style and fabric. A minimum allowance for a Balloon and Austrian shades will is 1/3 the ordered
length. Inside mount applications will take up considerable glass space. Outside mount applications can be
ordered to stack completely off the window where wall space allows. Refer to DSC’s Stacking Charts.
Flat style roman shades will take a minimum of 9”, while hobbled styles will take a minimum of 12”. The soft
roman and slouch roman styles have curved folds at the bottom that will need 16” or so. Balloon style shades
will need 16” to 20” total stacking. space. Space required for stack always varies, so plan for a little bit
generously.
19
Fabric Roman Shades– Fabric Characteristics
20
Hand Dressing
⇒ ALL fabric roman shade treatments need hand
dressing for best appearance whenever they are
operated.
⇒ Balloon shades will wrinkle when operated and re-
quire extra dressing of poufs.
⇒ Fully functional operation requires straight hem
styles such as Front or Reverse Fold, or Hobbled/
Waterfall. These are the easiest to operate with
Make sure the shades
minimal hand dressing.
can be reached to
⇒ Larger shades require more hand dressing, and are
hand dress the folds.
heavier and therefore cumbersome to operate.
Undressed waterfall treatment with crisp fabric.
Fabric Selection
While the function is similar to many more conventional window coverings, the soft shade offers more fabric choices and customization than
any other shade option.
Fabric Weight
⇒ Medium-weight fabrics with a fairly firm hand will work best with the
Flat, Hobbled, Waterfall, and Front or Reverse Fold styles. They will
produce straight folds, and tend to fall into place more readily.
⇒ Medium weight yet softer, more drape able fabrics will work best
with Soft Romans and Slouch, following the shape of the swag style
hems more easily.
⇒ Balloon Shades will work well with light weight fabrics with a stiff
hand such as faux silk so that the balloons do not sag, and yet the
shade does not get too heavy to operate. Keep in mind that the fabric used on balloon shades will wrinkle as the shade is operated due
to the poufs.
Pattern is interrupted by horizontal
folds
Fabric Pattern
⇒ Large scale patterns are only recommended on flat roman shades
because the pattern is not interrupted.
⇒ Small scale patterns work best on roman shades in general
⇒ Horizontally oriented patterns will be interrupted on Front or Re-
verse Fold, Hobbled or Waterfall style roman shades. Avoid Plaids
on these styles.
⇒ Vertically oriented patterns may not match perfectly on Front or Re-
verse Fold, Hobbled or Waterfall style roman shades. See photo at
right.
Stripes can be trouble, they may
not line up perfectly.
Fabric Roman Shade Considerations
21
Hour Glassing
Results from a panel of fabric relaxing at the sides (sags in a bit) after being stretched tight at the bottom rail and
head rail. The relaxation in the middle of the shade gives the appearance of an hourglass. Hour glassing becomes apparent on inside mounts where the frame of the window forms a straight line to
emphasize the relaxation of the fabric. To cover up hour-glassing, add on drapery panels.
Most dramatic in Austrian shades.
Setting the Right Expectation
If your client just has to have that gorgeous fabric that does not follow
these guidelines, advise of the characteristics to let him/her know what
to expect.
Example 1: A soft, linen will produce slightly sagging folds on a Hobbled shade, as well as wrinkles. Recognize the characteristics of the
fabric you have selected and weigh these against the characteristics
of the product style and the functional qualities that are needed.
The lining will
show from the
side when shade
is raised!
Example 2: The client wants balloon shades fabricated in 100% cotton. Advise that this is not
recommended due to wrinkling, make sure to discuss this with them! This fabric has a crisp
hand which will give body to the balloon, however it will also cause permanent wrinkling created from the shade being operated. Any fabric with a glaze finish, like chintz, should be avoided due to the finish cracking where wrinkles occur. Taffeta’s should be avoided.
Multiple Roman Shade Application
Any shade over 96” wide must be ordered as two
shades with one continuous valance. Use the same
headrail in the same room to assure projections and
cord colors and mechanisms are the same.
Notate on the order side-by-side shades for the vendor. This ensures pleat spacing, cords and fabric patters are matched. They must be the same length. If
they are varying lengths they may not line up exactly.
Light gap:
•
•
•
Always expect light gaps on shades ordered sideby-side.
Order as tight as possible so they can be installed
very close together and order with one continuous valance.
Privacy is an apparent issue when the shade is not butted up to
the next shade.
This light gap
would not have been
avoided because of
the tight space between the window
and the cabinet. Explain to the customer
where you can address light gap with
wider shades and
where you can’t.
If these had been ordered to almost touch
side by side privacy would have been preserved as much as possible.
22
Fabrics
23
Fabrics
Fabric triggers an emotion with every client!
It is what pulls a customer into the project or pushes them away. Determining
the face fabric is one of the first steps—the selected face can determine the
color scheme or if the wrong face is used, can completely alter the feel of the
room.
The nature of fabrics are very important components to the finished look of a
window treatment design. A change in fabric can substantially hurt or enhance the finished result of a design, even if the treatment remains the same.
Some fabrics offered by drapery fabric companies work in a very narrow
range of applications and those applications may not include standard draperies. Carole has their fabrics coded for usage in their fabric pricelist and on
their quoting website, it is easy to reference while in the customer home.
Vendors may also have suitable applications listed on their websites when
performing a fabric search.
Fabrics such as silk, linen, and many upholstery fabrics, are becoming increasing popular as consumers look
for less structured treatments. Wrinkling and flaring, which might be considered a defect by some clients, are
the defining characteristics of these fabrics that add modern appeal.
“When you use color, you
Keep in mind practical considerations when selecting fabric for each window,
should be fearless. Be
as choosing the wrong fabric will ruin the end result!
bold…you really have to
•
•
•
How will the fabric drape?
Will the fabric wrinkle?
Will the fabric fade in bright sunlight?
saturate with it. Color will
set the mood of your
room” – Larry Laslo
Always look at fabric in all lights, including backlighting, and be sure to reserve
enough material; any fabric ordered at a later date from new stock fabric may show a noticeable color variation from differing dye lots. Your knowledge of drapery fabrics is essential to help you in window treatment
design and selling.
Banding & Trim
Small details make a big impact! Much of the exquisite designs found today are the result of the successful
combination of great design, flawless specification, and the careful application of bandings and decorative
trims. These extra custom details make the difference that sets your designs apart from the competition.
⇒
⇒
⇒
⇒
⇒
⇒
Turns a simple product into a unique design, without totally changing the treatment: One-of-a-kind look!
Adds value to the product and profit to your sale
Easy way to pick up important accent colors in the room ties the look all together
Provides luxury and beauty to the window treatment, giving it an exclusive, custom look
Differentiates window treatments from the adjacent walls
Adds richness, texture and weight to lightweight or soft fabrics
Don’t be afraid to suggest bandings and decorative trims to the client. Just use good judgments in placement,
color coordination and amount of trimmings used (trims are not available on sheer or casement fabrics).
TIP: Search the internet for current color and fabric trends. Pull magazine photos to show your clients the
latest styles, green qualities, and efficient approaches
Books
For years “The Encyclopedia of Window Fashions” has been an important resource.
“Design Ddeas for Windows” by Dorinda Beaumont for has good photos of actual window treatments and
would be a good conversation starter for what your client likes and is envisioning for their home.
Natural Fibers
Cotton is the most important natural fiber for use
in textiles whether alone or blended with other fibers. The fiber is plucked from the cotton plant in
popcorn like tufts. It is woven into a wide range of
patterns, colors, weights, and textures. A natural
fiber which generally wears well in any type of
drapery treatment.
⇒ Excellent hang, drapes well, soft hand
⇒ Good color fastness
⇒ Poor sun resistance & color fastness, will rot in
⇒
⇒
⇒
⇒
⇒
a short time
Medium strength and durability
Strong, will not stretch or sag
Will burn if untreated
Absorbent, may be susceptible to mildew
Poor resiliency, will wrinkle
Silk is a lustrous natural fiber which drapes well and
is becoming highly valued by many clients. Silk’s
reputation for luxury started long ago in China,
where threads spun by silkworms were tapped for
fine garments. Variations in dye lots, slubs, and
shading within the same piece of material are
considered part of the beauty of the fabric, which
may not be acceptable for all clients. Silk must be
lined and interlined to lengthen its life.
⇒ Always line and interline to protect from direct
sunlight
⇒ Not recommended for bathrooms or areas with
high humidity= discoloration & shrinkage
⇒ Good hang, soft to crisp hand depending on
⇒
⇒
⇒
⇒
⇒
⇒
⇒
Linen/Flax long filament fibers make this a
great choice for drapery or shades because of its
unusually superior strength. Linen is almost always blended with cotton, rayon or other fibers to
improve wrinkle resistance quality. Linens are
good in plain or casement fabric. The fabric
comes from the wood stem of the flax plant.
Sunlight can weaken its natural fibers over time,
but you’ll extend its life with linings & interlinings.
Linen will wrinkle! Show off its organic elegance by letting it fall to the floor from a tall
window.
⇒
⇒
⇒
⇒
⇒
⇒
⇒
⇒
⇒
Good hang, not as soft a hand as cotton
Will fade from sunlight
Excellent sun resistance, will not rot
Superior strength and very loose weave
Can stretch or shrink in humid climates unless
blended with other fibers.
Very absorbent, susceptible to mildew
Does not soil quickly, natural luster and stiffness
24
weave
Poor sun resistance & color fastness, will rot in a
short time
Good abrasion resistance
Strong, will not stretch or sag
Will burn unless treated
Natural luster and sheen. Natural insulating
qualities give cool feel in Summer, warm feel in
Winter
Can pick up static electricity
Wool A durable fiber, wool is most stable if blended
with synthetics.
Good hang, soft hand
Reacts to humidity and temperature changes
Picks up static electricity
Pills
Will fade and rot in the sun. Must be treated to
resist moths and mildew.
⇒ Will burn unless treated.
⇒
⇒
⇒
⇒
⇒
Note: Even though these are the general characteristics of the fibers, the final characteristics of a textile fabric
depend on many factors. Such factors may include any treatment applied to the yarn, the weave or knit or other
method of construction, several finishes, dyes, climate etc.
Man-Made/Synthetic Fibers
Non-natural fibers are appreciated for their drape and easy care. Blended with natural fibers, synthetics
boost a fabric’s strength, longevity, and wrinkle-resistance. Nevertheless, since fibers are the ingredients of
textiles, their characteristics largely determine the final product. Classics include the following:
Rayon was originally produced to resemble silk
Polyester is an excellent fabric for most drapery
and is normally blended with other fibers such as
cotton, acetate, or linen. Rayon needs to be lined.
treatments such as swags, balloons and shirred
treatments.
Good colorfastness, dyes easily
Poor sun resistance, will rot in the sun
Low strength, stretches in loose weaves
Good resiliency, does not wrinkle like cotton or
linen
⇒ Insulating properties similar to silk
⇒
⇒
⇒
⇒
⇒
⇒
⇒
⇒
⇒
⇒
⇒
Nylon fiber is most commonly used in sheer fabrications. Nylon is made from petroleum, air and water. Nylon blends well with other fibers.
⇒
⇒
⇒
⇒
⇒
⇒
⇒
⇒
Good hang, soft to stiff hand
Good to excellent color fastness
Poor sun resistance, may rot in the sun
Excellent abrasion resistance
Very strong
Will pick up static electricity
Excellent resiliency, will not wrinkle
Acetate blends well with other fibers such as
rayon and nylon. It has almost the same finish and
draping qualities as silk, but is less prone to fade or
rot. Acetate needs to be lined.
⇒
⇒
⇒
⇒
⇒
⇒
⇒
Good colorfastness
Good sun resistance
Low strength, stretches in loose weaves
Will pick up static electricity
Good resiliency, does not wrinkle as much as
cotton
Excellent hang, very soft hand
Good to excellent colorfastness
Excellent sun resistance
Good abrasion resistance, sheers must be handled with care. Fabric can be bruised
⇒ Excellent strength, does not sag
⇒ Good resiliency, does not wrinkle as much as
cotton
Characteristics: Soft hand, excellent shape retention, resists wrinkles, resists stretching and shrinking, strong, durable, light weight, drapery will flare
at bottom, will not hang in crisp folds on any treatment, excellent sun resistance, non-allergenic
Disadvantages: Picks up
static electricity and will
pill, FLARING is also characteristic on draperies and
memory stitching should
be added to help folds fall
regularly down the length
of the drapery.
Note:
Polyester fiber is much
kinder to the environment—dust mites do not
live in polyester! This is
not your grandmother’s
polyester!
Some modern polyesters have been treated to look
and perform more like silk and will have similar
characteristics; crisp hand, will wrinkle and have
some slubs and yarn thickness irregularity throughout the fabric. It is important to handle the fabric
and have your client handle the fabric so they understand how the fabric will perform.
Note: Even though these are the general characteristics of the fibers, the final characteristics of a textile
fabric depend on many factors. Such factors may include any treatment applied to the yarn, the weave or
knit or other method of construction, several finishes, dyes, climate etc.
25
26
Fabrics
Upholstery (heavier) Weight Fabrics…
Fabric thickness matters! Heavier upholstery-weight
fabrics are best suited to flat treatments, or bedding
products. We do not recommend using heavy-weight fabrics
for valances with pleats, swoops or “bells” or for swag-type
treatments. The weight of the fabric will cause the fabric to
flare at the bottom, especially if a banding or cord/trim is
applied at the bottom edge.
Upholstery weight fabrics are not recommended for
draperies because the pattern will usually run in the opposite
direction than shown in the book and has to be pleated
differently. Some are “railroaded” on bolts, some are not.
The designer must specify which way they want the fabric to
run on the treatment. (the sample book will note which way
the fabric is shown. If there is no notation, you may assume
the top of the sample is what you would see coming off the
bolt. Upholstery goods are not suitable for quilted products.
Hint: Interlining increases the bulk and should be avoided
when using heavier fabrics; instead, opt for fabrics with a
“soft hand”.
Mock roman valances fabricated
in
unsuitable upholstery weight fabrics (folds
do not lay flat)
When valances are formed and mounted to the boards, if
there are too many layers of fabric thickness, it can be difficult to staple through the board. Heavier fabric
paired with the incorrect design can also create extra thickness or bulk at the top of the board. Workrooms
will often try doing different things to cut down or eliminate the bulk in these instances, but depending on what
type of treatment it is, that can be very challenging.
Vendor Approved Fabrics
We do not fabricate items using customer’s own fabric (NO COM). We prefer having fabric and fabrication
done under one roof. In the rare occasion where an exception has to be made, you can ask for approval to
send Kasmir and DSC fabric from one of CDI’s other vendors. Kasmir and DSC will fabricate products with
other Vendor Approved Fabrics, Kasmir charges to inspect the fabric so be sure to include that in the price of
the product. Using Kasmir’s website, the inspection cost is included.
Most of the time, when vendors prepare the fabric, it is standard the face of the fabric is rolled to the inside of
the bolt. But with today’s fabrics, it’s sometimes impossible to know which side is
the right side, so we have to rely on that rule. While that’s one way the workroom
can gauge which side to use, it’s not a foolproof way to determine the face. Identify the face fabric by sending a swatch to show the fabricator which side of the
fabric to use.
Attach the labeled fabric swatch to the workroom’s work order to indicate which
side should be used as the face is most effective. Many fabrics can be used on
either side—it’s simply a matter of preference, the designer’s and the client’s, and
if the face isn’t identified, the project is all the more challenging.
27
Patterns
Any fabric with a design printed on its face is called a printed fabric. Industry standards allow patterns on
fabric to be 2” – 3” out of square on a 54” width of fabric. While workrooms can adjust for this, it can be an
issue when perfect horizontal lines are required for great widths as in cornices, roman shades and box
pleats. With any pattern, consider the size of the pattern repeat—is it appropriate for the style of treatment
you are proposing? Are the colors crisp and separate? Are the colors perfect or off center?
Large Patterns can get lost in gathered treatments with lots of fullness and may not repeat themselves
evenly from fold to fold. Patterns may lose a dominant color or feature in treatments like hobbled roman
shades. Keep in mind the size of the pattern selected and think of how it will look on a much larger scale.
Stripes form a straight line at regular intervals on a bolt of fabric. However, many window treatments distort
that regularity. On pleated treatments, the effort to hide seams often results in stripes falling irregularly as
they go across a drapery, valance or shade.
Wide Stripes may show on one pleat and not on another when it recurs in the fabric. Beware! Never sell
stripes in pleated drapery if the client requires that an individual stripe must hang down the edge or tip of
each pleat. When bias cut treatments, such as swags, or railroaded treatments are combined with straight
cut treatments, the stripes of a pattern will be going in different directions on the treatment.
***Note: Avoid stripe fabrics for pleated draperies if your client expects all the stripes to fall at the
same place on each pleat!
Paisley
Half Drop:
The curved teardrop pattern
was made famous in
cashmere shawls imported
from India to Europe. Use
where pattern is a plus; to
avoid clashing with other
patterns in the room, use in
similar color schemes.
This textile design creates a
diagonal grid in the pattern
repeat formation. You may
need to order extra yardage
to ensure a proper pattern
match at seams.
Checks
Crisp, classic checks bring
immediate energy to their
surroundings, which can be
formal or casual. You’ll find
variations of the classic
pattern printed or woven
into a multitude of fabrics
and fibers.
Important Note: Vertical and horizontal stripes,
plaids, checks, and open weaves are not
guaranteed to match perfectly at the seams or fall in
the same place on pleats or cascades/jabots.
Plaid
Basically a stripe that runs
two ways. Steer clear of
using large scale printed or
woven plaids as drapery
panels or soft shades,
because it may bow or may
be out of square. At many
times, plaids cannot be
matched at the seams and
will not have straight lines at
the hems. Plaids are problematic for roman shades,
cornices and box pleated valances. Plaids have a
tendency to run biased and may appear bowed.
Pattern Matches
Drapery: repeats are matched from the bottom.
Top Treatments: repeats are matched from the top
down.
28
Weaves
Brocade
Jacquard
Designs appear to have
been embroidered on this
grand, heavy, Jacquardwoven fabric. Woven of silk
and now many other fibers,
brocade should be lined to
conceal floating yarns on
the back of the fabric.
Known for their intricate
raised patterns that seem to
sit on top of the fabric,
Jacquards are named for
the looms that produce
them. Hang a jacquard in a
traditional room design
where its novelty can be
enjoyed up close.
Good choice for cornices.
Dobby
Matelasse
Small, raised, geometric
designs enliven fabrics of
the dobby weave, thanks to
a special loom attachment.
Try a dobby fabric to give a
flat window treatment lots of
textural interest.
Popularized in bedding,
matelasse is a Jacquardwoven fabric that features a
quilted-like surface and a
lofty feel.
Chenille
Repp
Clipped, twisted yarns give
this cloth the appearance of
a fuzzy caterpillar. It can
have a matte look or a deep
sheen. Chenille hangs
beautifully as a panel; add a
lining for volume.
Whipcord and gabardine
are repp fabrics, plainweave fabrics with a rib
effect. Grosgrain ribbons
and taffeta fit in this
category, too.
Ikat
Dotted Swiss
This Indonesian word
means “bundle”, and to
make the fabric, bundles of
silk or cotton yarn are tied,
then dyed, then woven into
geometric patterns that are
softly blurred.
Tiny dots punctuate this
sheer fabric, sometimes
with a raised texture. Hang
simple panels of ivory or
pastel Swiss in the bedroom
or bath, with blinds or
opaque panels for privacy.
Excellent choice for
upholstered headboards
and cornices.
29
Weaves & Finishes
Moiré
Faux Silk
The shimmering finish on
this textile occurs when
fabric is run through rollers
to impress a wavy
watermark or wood-grain
pattern on the fabric.
100% polyester, faux silk
resembles the look of silk,
usually at a lower price.
Certain decorative faux silks
have a wrinkled appearance.
When an embroidered design
is stitched to the base fabric,
it causes the base fabric to
buckle and/or crease which
can cause the fabric to
appear wrinkled.
Do not iron.
Satin
Damask
Satins are created when
lengthwise (warp) threads
float over several
crosswise (weft) threads.
The floating threads
reflect light to yield a
smooth sheen on the
fabric’s distinct front side.
A jacquard woven fabric with
large botanical motif repeated
in half drops throughout the
fabric. Widely used in
traditional settings, and more
recently finding popularity in
modern décor.
Chintz
Frieze
Often made of cotton, this
fine, plain-weave fabric is
glazed for surface sheen.
Versatile chintz is found in
solids and florals; it’s a
good choice for
treatments with ruffles and
poufs. Finish will crackle
when handled and this
may be mistaken for
wrinkling and will not fall
Contrary to its pronunciation,
a frieze makes a warm, heavy
drapery. This extra-sturdy
woven fabric features uncut
surface loops. It’s often made
with a Jacquard weave to
yield a sculptural effect.
Tissue Pick Fabrics
Tissue pick fabrics can be identified by a wide line of threads running down
the back of the fabric. Select portions of these threads are pulled to the front
of the fabric to create a textural design. When a tissue pick fabric is drawn
over a window with direct sunlight, the line of thread on the back can block the
sun and distort the true pattern on the face of the fabric. Careful consideration
for product styles within the room and lining choices needs to be taken.
What to look out for…The hidden pattern only shows in sunlight, so during
the evening and on shaded windows, it may not show at all. Use of lining,
interlining, and dark fabric colors will make the situation less apparent.
Sheers and Open Weaves
Sheers
Lightweight, translucent fabrics which are sometimes used as extra privacy with heavier
fabrics or panels. Sheer panels lightly screen a window from light, while still providing
some privacy that lends an airy elegance to a room. Sheer fabrics are sold in standard
54” widths or “seamless” 118” widths.
On standard pleated draperies, the 118” fabric is railroaded for draperies up to 99” in
finished length to eliminate the need for seaming fabric together. The practice of running the grain of the fabric horizontally to eliminate seams is known as railroading.
Sheers will deepen and intensify in color when pleated or shirred! Memo samples need to be ordered
and gathered to determine true color in both the daytime and the evening. When choosing a sheer fabric, pay
attention to the care and maintenance it will need. Dye lot is critical in most sheer applications and is not suitable for any quilted products. Do not use sheers on a valance treatment unless it is self-lined for stability.
When putting sheers under drapery, you do not need to add returns to the rod length since the drapery will
cover up the returns over the sheer. Under treatment returns= 0”, drapery returns = 6”, top treatment = 9”.
Crinkled, Laces, Loose Weaves and fabrics with Sewn Tucks
These fabrics are not considered stable so standard length tolerances do not apply. Due to the uneven surface caused by the weave or structure on these fabrics, products made from them are less precise in finished
width/length and therefore more casual. The fabrics may also relax slightly due to
weight and time, creating uneven hems.
The looser the weave, the less stability the fabric will produce. This results in a treatment which would normally look crisp and tailored if
fabricated in a plain weave cotton, but becomes casual
These fabrics should
and relaxed in appearance with no exact shape bebe puddled on the
cause of the nature of the loose weave. These fabrics
floor or used where a
also relax more over time; meaning drapery panels can
“grow” in the window.
change in length will
not influence look or
performance.
Important Note: Not only are the finished width and
length less precise on these fabrics, the surface texture
of the fabrics can vary; crinkles may be more dramatic
in one area of the bolt, tucks may be sewn off grain a bit.
Casements
The openness of the weave gives visual and tactile texture. Casements will stretch
and grow after being hung. Plan on having draperies hemmed again after the treatment has been up for a few weeks. Industry tolerance is 1/2”. Side hems and bottom
hems are straight stitched instead of blind-stitched.
Often made of cotton, linen or a synthetic. The open weave will softly diffuse sunlight
and obscures less-than-lovely views.
30
31
Banding & Trim Styles
Tassel Fringe has a looped fringe to which
tassels are attached. Tassels may be spaced and
sparse, lay in tight procession, or even be overlaid
in various lengths, called multi-tasseled fringe. An
elegant statement on the leading edge of any panel
or swag style.
Brush Fringe has a thick woven yarn heading,
almost like macramé usually with cut yarns at the
bottom. Traditional style that well-suits any décor.
Bullion Fringe is made
of cords instead of yarns
which are 2 1/2” to 12”
long, in a hard finish.
Longer lengths are
t yp i c a l l y
used
on
Victorian-style upholstery
and table covers; shorter
lengths as top treatment
or drapery fringe. The
cords are looped at the
bottom and twisted
together.
Key Tassel: short,
very full tassels 3-4
l o ng
t r ad i t io na l l y
attached to a key
furniture piece. May
be used as decoration
on window treatments.
Tassel Tiebacks are
substantial, sometimes
very ornate tassels on
a looped cord or rope
used for holding back
drapery panels.
Loop Fringe has a flat skirt of very fine looped
yarns. Adds texture and interest on pillows and on
the leading edge of panels.
Cord consists of plied yarns twisted together
ranging from 3/16” to 1” in diameter. Yarns may be
plain plies, twisted with few turns per inch or
wrapped very tightly around a core with many turns
per inch.
Cord may be one color or multiple colors, and used
alone or in combination with tassels or gimp. Great
add-on to upholstered cornices and pillows.
Cord (no lip)
Braids are flat, woven narrow textiles from 5/8” to
4” in width, which may be in a dobby or Jacquard
pattern. Edges may be straight, looped, scalloped,
or cut.
Cord w/Lip
Lining
Lining gives a drapery body a more full, luxurious appearance and protects the face fabric from sun damage.
It also helps reduce wrinkles and creases. It is a distinguishing factor between ready-made and custom.
Lining Advantages
You would not consider a fine clothing garment without lining, so you should not
consider a drapery for your client’s home without a lining.
• Lined draperies look better because of added fullness
• Lined draperies hang better because of the extra weight that is added to reduce wrinkles and creases
• Lined draperies protect in many ways. From condensation, sun deterioration,
and energy loss.
• Lined draperies last longer because of the extra protection the life of the drapery is extended considerably.
Lining is sewn on the back of a window treatment to protect the fabric from fading, water stains, improve insulation, and reduce the amount of light that travels through the window. Lining plays a very important role in
the overall appearance of custom drapery. From a cleaning point of view, the lining protects your client’s investment. All draperies should be lined except sheers.
•
•
Line all treatment in the same room with the same weight lining to prevent light from filtering
through at different degrees and distorting the color and pattern.
Never line any type of drapery or top treatment with silk
Interlining
Interlining is a soft, flannel blanket like cotton and is sewn between the face fabric and the lining to add additional protection. It is an upgrade/option and is a great choice for a client who wants to add a much fuller look
to a window.
• Always line and interline silk and lightweight fabrics.
• Interline lighter weight fabrics for extra protection and body
• Heavier weight jacquards have enough body that they will not need interlining
Blackout Lining
Blackout linings may be used to control light in
rooms such as bedrooms. Most blackout lining consists of a layer of opaque material sandwiched between two layers of cotton fabric, blocking out all
light.
•
•
Never line a light colored face fabric with
blackout lining because it will show pin
holes or dark spots.
Use the same weight lining on coordinating top treatments and drapery.
Dark spots or pin holes from the lining may show if a
blackout lining is used on light colored fabric. This
may appear to the client as a fabric flaw.
But, the problem can be avoided by having a separate under drapery made of blackout lining rather
than stitching the lining to the face fabric.
Cotton Sateen Lining is a satin weave fabric and
will retain its body and shape after dry cleaning.
TIP: We recommend a 50% polyester 50% cotton fabric like Carole’s Classic Sateen.
Flannel Backed Cotton Sateen is a premium lining that costs a fraction of the interlining surcharge,
while adding some of the same benefits.
The same cotton sateen is woven to integrate a flannel backing which gives added insulation, added
body, more protection to face fabric and a luxurious
hang.
Cotton Suede thermal suede linings may be used
where extra body or insulation is desired.
TIP: Watch the fabric content of lining—
Polyester to Polyester often causes flaring
due to the negative charges.
32
Drapery Fullness & Fabric Direction
Drapery panels are available in pleated, gathered and flat fabrications. Most fabric is 54” wide. Drapery usually require cutting multiple section of fabric known as widths off a bolt and seaming them together as
needed to achieve the finished width desired.
Railroading Fabric
Pleating and Seams
With 118” wide bolts of fabric (sheers), draperies can be
made seamlessly up to 99” in finished length by railroading
the fabric. Imagine turning a 118” wide roll of fabric
sideways and unrolling to the desired width. There are no
fabric widths to join, patterns to match, or seams to show.
Railroading is normally used with sheers for a seamless
look.
When draperies are wider than the width of
the bolt of fabric ordered, wider than 54”,
seams will be required. Seams will show in
a flat treatment, but can be hidden somewhat
in the folds of pleated and gathered
treatments. The process of hiding seams in
the folds generates slight variations in the
distance between pleats. This process is
standard for hiding seams and is
characteristic of custom quality.
For longer lengths, the fabric must be turned to run the
grain vertically. It will then be cut and seamed just as
standard width fabrics are. In sample fabric books, 118”
wide fabric is already shown railroaded and the way they
are intended to be sewn in a finished drapery.
118” Width of Fabric
The width of the fabric is used for the length of the drapery.
Fullness
Fullness is the term used to compare the
relationship between the total amount of
fabric that is used in a window treatment to
the finished width of the product.
1. 2 to 1 = ready made, not recommended
2. 2 1/2 to 1 = custom, standard
3. 3 to 1 = sheers
Example:
Fullness= 2.5, Finished Width= 122”
Actual Fabric Width= 2.5 x 122= 305”
The more fabric you pleat to fill a given
space, the greater the fullness, the deeper
the folds of drapery and more luxurious the
appearance.
Generally, double fullness is commercial or
ready-made fullness, but is appropriate in
residential draperies where heavy fabrics
such as velvets or large prints to show more
of the pattern.
⇒ More fullness may be desired for lighter
RAILROADING TIPS:
• Your samples of wide width fabrics, 118”, are
shown railroaded.
•
Maximum finished length using 118” wide
fabric is 99”.
•
If the 118” goods are patterned and the
desired length is 105”, turning the fabric
results in the pattern being sideways and
seams.
weight face fabric, less fullness for
heavier fabrics.
⇒ Sheers are always 3 to 1 fullness.
Exact fullness can vary from 2.4 to 2.9
because of the finished width requirement
and hidden seams are standard for custom
products. Custom Decorators recommends
one width of fabric be used for every 20“ of
finished width in a standard pleated drapery.
Widths required should be rounded to the
nearest whole width.
33
Pair vs Panel
Panels
A panel is a single unit of drapery
which can be one width or multiple
widths of fabric.
When a one-way draw drapery is
made, it is either called a left panel
or right panel, depending on which
side it draws open to. A panel
may also be a center panel if located between left and right panels on a series of windows.
Pairs
A pair of draperies consists of two panels equal in width and length.
A pair is always used for a center draw rod, is a split stack treatment
and is the most commonly used drapery treatment. Ordering a pair of
draperies instead of ordering two panels ensures the draperies have
the correct returns and overlaps and ensures that the pleating of the
two panels matches. The width for a pair of draperies is the combined
width of the two panels in the pair and should be equal to the finished
width of the draperies.
Example: A pair of 60” wide draperies will consist of two panels that
are each 30” wide, or finished width divided by two.
If you have one width or multiple widths of fabric it is still a PANEL of drapery:
= One Panel
One or Two
widths
One width or multiple widths of fabric made separately and used on the same window = one PAIR:
One width
One width
Stationary decorative panels- All of our vendors offer
longer length drapery and CaroleNet provides pricing
online for lengths up to 235”.
34
Environmental Elements Affecting Fabric
•
Sun is a constant enemy of any fabric and any continuous exposure will
weaken the strength of most fibers. The best protection for any drapery is
good lining. Sunlight influences different dyes in different ways. This is the
result of a chemical action caused by sun rays. Always line and interline
silk fabrics.
Many times after cleaning, streaks show in draperies from sunlight. These
faded streaks cannot be corrected by dry cleaning. There is often a fabric
weakness in the faded area. Even “sun fast” fabrics are not entirely resistant to damage caused by the sun rays.
•
Humidity in the air can cause draperies to either stretch or shrink after installation (i.e. Moiré, Antique
Satin or open weaves, such as Linen—fluctuations are normal). Loosely woven fabrics are most affected.
•
Fumes cause fading. Fading is the result of gases and fumes reacting with certain dyes. Fabrics containing acetate are affected most causing a reddish color. Blues and greens are the most susceptible.
•
Oxidation: there are some fumes such as auto exhausts, furnaces, and cooking fumes which contain
chemicals that react with humidity and oxygen in the air and cause acids to form. This will cause discoloration and deterioration of the fabrics.
•
Shrinkage can be noticed if the fabric has not been completely pre-shrunk. Draperies can be lengthened if the heading or hems have been double turned.
•
Waterborne stains: condensation on windows and rain will occasionally cause drapery fabrics to become water marked. Water stains are usually impossible to remove. There are linings available which
will not carry water borne stains.
There is a rule of thumb that the life expectancy of lined draperies is 6 years—unlined draperies is 4
years—sheers, 3 years. However, there are many variables that will affect the life expectancy of your clients’ draperies.
35
36
Drapery Care
At the Install
•
•
Provide your installer with a Drapery Measurement Worksheet that communicates the placement of the
treatment on the wall.
Avoid pressing if at all possible. If you must, be aware of the following:
• Silks are a absolute no-no, when it comes to steaming. Do not steam silk as it will discolor.
• Moires should never be pressed.
• Open weave fabrics may become even further unstable as pressing or steaming will enhance the
open weave with stretching.
•
If you have a steaming appliance, a light steaming will help to ease out any wrinkles or creases.
•
Allow time for any wrinkles to fall out.
•
Never hot iron or wash/launder.
Shipment
Drapery and Top Treatments are wrapped in plastic
and specially packed (fan folded—shown below) in
box by our national fabricators with screws added
into the dust cap to hold in place.
a
•
The boxes will withstand heavy weight and
abuse, and will under the worst conditions, still
arrive in good shape.
•
Wrinkling will occur If the installer does not remove the merchandise from the box and install it
ASAP.
•
The longer it takes for the merchandise to be installed, the greater the risk of wrinkling.
•
Installer can hang the treatment to prevent wrinkling.
Long-Term Care
•
Vacuum your draperies as needed and remove accumulated dust from the surface of your treatments.
Use a clean, soft brush attachment for this, with the suction power slightly reduced. Watch for any large
accumulations that might be spread by the brush. Vacuum more = clean less!
•
Only dry clean draperies once every three to five years. Avoid letting the draperies become overly soiled.
This could lead to harsh cleaning methods or solvents being needed in order to remove the soil.
•
Draperies should be cleaned by a trusted dry cleaner who specializes in home furnishings. The fabrics
used in your draperies are tested and are suitable for dry cleaning. The best way to clean is to have professional service brought directly in the home. The client will not have to take the draperies down, drag to
the cleaners and risk snagging and having a professional installer hang back up.
•
Draperies that cannot be removed and dry cleaned should be cleaned by a professional drapery cleaning
service. Check references carefully!
Window Types & Measuring
Window Terminology
Parts of the Window
1. Casing: the inside ‘frame’ of the window which
2.
supports the sliding sashes.
2. Lintel: support beams over windows and doors.
Commonly, the top of the window opening.
7.
6.
8.
5.
3. Sill: the horizontal flat edge at the base of the
window, which may or may not project into the
room.
4. Apron: the wood trim directly below the sill.
1.
5. Trim: the molding which surrounds the window
opening.
6. Mullion: the vertical dividers between window
panes in multiple windows.
3.
7. Muntin: same as a mullion except these are
horizontal dividers between window panes.
4.
8. Sash: framing in which glass panes are set.
Casement windows offer more
light and a larger view. Most
common in newer homes, casement windows are operated by a
crank or hand. Since these windows swing in or out of a room,
make sure to select treatments
that do not get tangled in the
window as it is opened and
closed.
Double Hung: with a more traditional and basic appearance,
double hung windows are one of
the most common window
styles. The window sashes slide
up and down and can easily be
treated with any drapery treatment. A draped and pleated valance and full length panels are
traditional treatments for double
hung windows.
Palladian (Arch) has an
‘arched’ top usually made up of
small glass windows. A designer’s goal is to complement
this architectural feature without
covering it up. Either the arched
area is left bare and bottom portion is covered or the arched portion can be covered too.
37
Window Styles
French Doors:
Sidelights:
⇒ Hang drapery panels high from
⇒ Narrow windows located
freely sliding rings to provide
easy clearance for opening
French Doors.
⇒ Be sure the stack back clears
the door swing.
⇒ Note the swing, inside or
outside?
⇒ Make sure the product fits the
mount area, outside mount on
the door or outside mount on
the wall.
around the right and left
sides of a door.
⇒ Since these windows are
very narrow and usually
have no wall space next to
them, design and installation choices are limited.
Bow (circular bay):
Bay:
⇒ A window that forms an elegant curve which
⇒ Typically 3 windows joined together at angles,
extends away from the wall.
⇒ Bows are one of the most difficult windows to
treat.
⇒ Drapery rods need to be bent, a template will
be required.
where the center window is often fixed (not
moveable) with operating double hung or casement windows on each side.
⇒ Drapery rods need to be bent, a template is required.
⇒ Valance and roman shade boards may need to
be mitered, a template will be required.
Picture
Corner:
⇒ Windows usually consist of one large center win-
⇒ Two windows that come together at a corner of
dow (not movable), with two operating windows
on each side.
⇒ Keep in mind, covering a large expanse of glass
creates challenges for both design and function.
⇒ The use of “C” rings for café drapery treatments
allows them to pass over the rod supports.
⇒ On larger expanses, it may be necessary to upgrade a cord traversing treatment to an Architrac
or Estate Ultra system (Kirsch Hardware).
the room.
⇒ The challenge with these windows is having a
finished look at the corner where two treatments come together.
⇒ Valance and roman shade boards may need to
be mitered, a template will be required.
⇒ Swivel sockets are used for drapery hardware.
38
39
Measuring
Measuring Rod Length (window width)
The minimum rod length of a functional pleated drapery should be 8” wider (4”
side) than the frame of the window being covered.
Projection
each
Adding 4” to each side allows for brackets and controls, and for side
hems of the drapery to extend beyond the glass. It provides side cover- Clearance
age for light control and privacy. Be sure to consider extra wall space
needed for stackback and decorative finial dimensions.
Rod Length
Return
4 in.
4 in.
4 in.
Window
Measuring Height (drapery length)
Standard functional draperies should be installed a minimum of 4” above the window casing. You can add
height in consideration of the room and client’s requests. Ruffled headings are included in the finished length
measurement.
Finished Width Components
•
Bracket-to-bracket measurement: The actual rod length.
•
Return:Flat part of the drapery which wraps around the end of the rod and conceals the end brackets.
•
Overlap: The amount of fabric measurement to overlap at the center on a two-way draw. 2” for each
panel= 4”.
Treatments such as grommet top, rod pocket, or stationary side panels on decorative rods will not need a
return.
Multiple Treatments
•
The returns follow a measurement sequence= sheers under drapery no returns, 6” (drapery), 9” (cornice).
0/6/9
•
Layering a board mounted valance over a drapery, you need to add 4” to the drapery rod length for
proper clearance (2” clearance on each side).
•
The length of the under drapery should always be 1/2” shorter than the over drapery so the under drapery
does not “peek” out.
Finished Width Drapery Calculation:
Rod Length + Return + Overlap/Ease = FINISHED WIDTH
Example:
Two Way Draw
106”
4”+4”
+4”
=
118” FW
Rod Length + Return + Overlap/Ease = FINISHED WIDTH
Example:
One Way Draw
106”
4”
+2”
=
112” FW
.
Drapery Width Measurement Example
Window 100” x 56”
4” added to each side = 108” Bracket to Bracket
Sheers Finished Width
108” Rod
+ 0” Returns
+ 4” Overlap
= 112” finished width
4”
Drapery Finished Width:
108” Rod
+ 6” Returns on each side
+ 4” Overlap
= 124” finished width
4”
Measuring Tips:
⇒ Always measure from left to right.
Measure width first, then length.
⇒ Measure the window in at least
three horizontal positions and
three vertical positions. Few windows are perfectly straight and
square!
⇒ Measure every window individu-
ally...never assume two windows
are identical.
⇒ Measure length by measuring up
from the floor.
⇒ All rods in the same room should
be installed the same distance
from the ceiling.
⇒ Always measure in inches and
round to the nearest 1/2” for width
and 1/4” for length.
⇒ Measure for under treatments first,
then over treatments, and finally
top treatments.
Lengths:
⇒ Apron= atleast 2” below apron
⇒ Standard Full= deduct 1/2” from
Cornice Face Width:
108” Rod
+ 4” clearance
= 112” face width with 9” Returns
40
41
Bay & Corner Window Measuring
Corner Windows
Requires 3 Drapery Panels for Full Coverage
Panel 2, the blue panel, covers from
the center of window ”A” on Rod “a” to
the center of window “B” on Rod “B”
Panel 1, the green panel,
covers the left portion of
window “A” on Rod “A”
Rod A
Panel 3, the red panel below, covers from the right
portion of window “B” on
Rod “B”
Rod B
Bay Windows
Measuring Draperies on Bay Windows
• Place a penny on the floor at each of the four points where you want your brackets and the exact distance
from the wall you want your projection or return
• Measure from Penny to penny to obtain the face width, bracket to bracket, measurement of your rod.
Measuring Board Mounted Top Treatments or Cornices on Bay Windows
• Place the pennies against the wall where your end brackets would be and measure form the penny to the
first angle for “A” and angle to angle from “B” and from the angle on your right to where your next end
bracket would be for your “C” measurement.
• You will need to get a protractor to measure the angle of the bay. Or you can take two business cards and
tape them together in the form of the angle.
42
Drapery Length
The industry standards for length tolerance are only applicable for stable fabrics. Open weaves, laces, crinkled fabrics and any fabric with stitched tucks are considered unstable and would not qualify for the tolerances listed below.
Industry tolerances for drapery finished length:
Up to 120” = 1/2” tolerance
121” to 190” = 1” tolerance
191” to 230” = 1– 1 1/2” tolerance
Recommendation: Trouser break or puddle for any drapery longer than 120”.
Pins can only be adjusted up or down 1/4”, which gives little room for adjustment when the length tolerance is 1” or larger.
•
•
•
A. Apron Length: Measure 2” below apron
(shortest length) From the top of the drapery to at a
minimum of 4” above the window casing, to at least
2” below the apron. This will keep the hem from being visible from the outside.
B. Full Length: Floor
Length less 1/2”
Measure for the top of the
drapery to be a minimum of
4” above the window casing,
measure to the floor and
deduct 1/2”. This is the most
popular and best length for functional traversing drapery.
A.
Floor
B.
C. Trouser Break: Floor
Length plus 2”
C.
D.
Layering Drapery Treatments: 1/2” shorter
The length of the
under drapery
should always be
1/2” shorter than
the over drapery to
make sure the under drapery fabric
does not “peek”
out under the over
drapery.
Example—Full Length Draperies
• Top of the window frame to the floor= 80”
• Drapery 4” above top of window frame
• Drapery Finished Length= 83.5”
• Under Drapery = 83”
This allows 2” of drapery to
“break” on the floor.
⇒ Think about using a
Trouser Break if the floor is
uneven.
Example: If a drapery has a floor length of 84”, a
drapery should be 86” long to break.
D. Puddle: Floor Length
plus 12”
(longest length):
Add 12” to floor length for
the drapery to puddle on the
floor.
Example: If a drapery has a
floor length of 84”, a drapery should be 96” long to
have a good puddle. Puddle hems create a dramatic
effect where stationary panels are used.
Uneven Hems? It is up to the designer and the installer to dress and steam the draperies.
1. Hand press hem
2. Steam body and hem on low to med heat
3. Move pin hooks to level hem by max of 1/4”
4. Finished length tolerance = 1/2”
43
Measuring
Measuring: Stack back Coverage Area
STACKBACK:
When a drapery is fully opened, it “stacks” to the sides. The
amount of space the fabric occupies is called the stack back
area. “Stack back coverage area” is the term for a coverage
area of a rod length used that exposes the entire window
opening, and accommodates the stack off the window when
the draperies are open. This allows maximum view, light, or
ventilation when the draperies are open. You need to be sure
that there’s room on either side of the window for the stack
back.
1. Measure the window opening
2. Refer to the Chart for stackback measurement
3. Add window opening plus stack back measurement= total
stackback coverage area and rod length
4. If it is a split draw divide the stackback by two= amount of
stack on each side of window.
Note: Remember stacking is an approximate calculation that
can vary slightly, depending on fullness, weight, fabric, and
type of hardware. Methods for exact calculation do not exist
and rules may vary.
Explain stacking when you discuss treatment styles—whether
the treatment will block view and light on the sides or at the top
is something the client needs to be aware of.
Average pleating &
medium weight fabric
Window
Opening
Stack back
Rod Length
24”
21”
45”
30”
23”
53”
36”
25”
61”
42”
26”
68”
48”
29”
77”
54”
30”
84”
60”
31”
91”
66”
32”
98”
72”
34”
106”
78”
36”
114”
84”
37”
121”
90”
38”
128”
96”
39”
135”
102”
42”
144”
108”
44”
152”
114”
45”
159”
120"
48"
168"
Rod Pocket Drapery Chart
Rod
Rod Pocket
Recommended Header
Take-Up
1” Sash Rod
1.5”
1”
1/2”
1 3/8” Wood Pole
3”
3”
1”
2” Wood Pole
2 1/4” Wood Pole
4”
4 1/4”
3”
3”
1 1/4”
1 1/2”
5 1/2”
3 1/2”
4”
3”
1/2”
1/2”
Studio Coordinates Rod
3”
4”
1”
Pin Hooks
Pin hooks can be used with into rings or traverse rods. This is
a good option so the customer can clean the drapery without
removing sewn on rings.
You must specify the pin setting. A hook is inserted into each
pleat, one on the overlaps and returns (4). All draperies are
shipped with pin hooks attached, unless specified. Pin hooks
hold securely and are easy to adjust when needed.
The returns will have a pin on the end of the drapery to hook
into the bracket against the wall.
Pin hooks can be moved up or down by 1/4” to help level hems.
Pin Setting Chart
Standard Traverse
1 3/4” (S)
Ceiling Mount Standard 1 1/2” (C)
Decorative Traverse
1/2” (D)
Under Drapery
1 1/4” (U)
Café Rod
1/8” (CR)
Drapery Width & Weight Calculations
HOW TO CALCULATE DRAPERY WIDTH & YARDAGE
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Finished Width x Fullness = Total fabric width
Total Treatment Fabric Width / Width of fabric, 54” = # of Widths of Fabric
# of Widths of Fabric (round up) x Drapery Length = Total Fabric Length
Total Fabric Length/12”= Feet
Feet/3= Total Yards
Example:
100” x 2.5 = 250”
250” / 54” = 4.6 width
5widths x 92”length= 460”
460”/12”= 38.33feet
38.33’/3’= 12.7
Add an extra yard just in case for the reserve. = 13 yards
HOW TO FIGURE DRAPERY WEIGHT
1. Figure Total Yardage
2. Multiply total yardage by one of the following
Regular drapery fabric and standard lining = ¾ lb. per yard*
⇒ Total Yardage x .75 = Total Weight lbs.
⇒ Total Weight / Rod Length = Weight per foot
Regular drapery fabric & blackout lining = 1 lb. per yard*
⇒ Total Yardage x 1 = Total Weight lbs.
Regular drapery fabric and blackout lining plus interlining = 1 ½ lbs per yard*
⇒ Total Yardage x 1.5 = Total Weight lbs.
* Weight is approximate.
Reference the Kirsch Track System chart on Pg. 97, 3/15/10 pricelist.
Select Premium and Supreme Traverse Rods drapery weight- 4lbs per foot.
Once you have figured out your drapery weight you can reference the Kirsch Track System chart
regarding selection and performance data of their traversing hardware.
Pg. 97, March 15, 2010 pricelist
Superfine and Studio Coordinates do not withstand the drapery weights of today’s drapery. These
rods are only suitable for light weight to medium weight draperies with standard lining, up to 84”
finished length only.
Any drapery of longer length, heavier face fabric or heavier lining fabric should be installed on a
heavy duty rod such as Kirsch Architrac or Estate Ultra.
44
45
Hardware
The finishing element to drapery is selecting the correct hardware. It is what supports your window treatment, controls its movement, and holds it open or closed. If your client has gone to the trouble to purchase
custom-made draperies then they won’t wan to skimp on hardware. Hardware adds a custom touch to the
treatment and can really make a wow statement.
Proportions are important! Consider the length of the rod in proportion to the room size when selecting the
hardware size. You often have to buy bigger rods and finials than you imagine to balance out a big, formal
drapery.
Make sure the hardware and the treatment are compatible (i.e. if your client chose a grommet top drapery, do
not use a rod too big in diameter so the pole will not fit thru the holes). Hardware is sold either in assembled
sets or in separate components. Assembled sets have everything you need (except for the finials), while
components require that you order specific pieces.
•
Do not use the customer’s own hardware. Customer’s own hardware may not hold up to the
function and weight of the drapery. The client may think there is something wrong with his or her
treatment, when it is actually the rod.
•
Do not hang heavy draperies from telescoping rods, these rods will often sag due to the
weight.
•
Order brackets at minimum of every 4 feet.
46
Hardware
Decorative Rods have no cord traverse function
built into them and are largely used in treatments that
frame windows (decorative) rather than in functional
treatments. These rods
have limited functionality
and should not be selected
if the client will be opening
and closing the drapery frequently.
We recommend ordering a baton to attach to the
lead ring in each panel if the customer will be
opening them. The baton prevents soiling of the fabric by perspiration from the client’s hands. In the past,
1 3/8” rods have been the standard decorative rod
size. In recent years, as windows have gotten higher,
2” and 3” rods have become more popular since they
provide better proportions for high windows.
Note: Paint and metal finishes can chip and wear off
over time as the rings slide over the top of the pole.
Component Rods are specialty rods often sold as
components rather than as sets. You must order
the correct number of finials, rings, and supports
for the drapery.
Pay close attention to the unit of measure when
ordering the component. Finials may be sold in
pairs or individually. Some rings are sold in packs
of 7 and some in packs of 4. This is spelled out
clearly on the various price lists.
What to Order: Rods/Poles, Rings, Brackets, Finials, Pole Splices or Swivel Sockets (if applicable),
and a wand (if needed).
Finials are decorative end pieces attached to
drapery rods which prevent panels and rings from
slipping off the rod. Finials add a beautiful touch
and coordinate with other elements of the room.
End caps are the solution for windows with limited wall or window
space. Dimensions are outlined in
the Price Lists.
Standard Curtain Rods accept a
rod pocket panel or valance and are
available in 1”, 2.5” and 4.5” continental styles. Sash rods and Café
rods mount close to a window and
are useful in French door applications
Brackets– every 4ft at a minimum.
Tension Rods are spring-loaded rods with bumper
cushions on the ends of the rod. The rod is inserted
into the window frame in an inside-mount position.
These are for lightweight rod pocket draperies only.
Consider the projections and specify
your drapery accordingly. Rings will not
be able to draw past the center supports
unless a bypass bracket and c-ring are
ordered.
Brackets should be placed behind splices for support.
Motorized Hardware
Motorized drapery hardware is in demand for any large expanse, windows that are difficult to reach, and simply for ease and convenience. We get all of our motorized drapery hardware from United Supply; contact
them for additional information and pricelists.
•
Makita is the starting price point system, operates with infrared remote, and is suitable for most common
drapery specifications and weights.
•
Somfy is the mid price point system, operates with radio frequency remote, and is suitable for most drapery specifications and weights.
•
SM Automatic is the higher price point, operates with radio frequency remote, and is suitable for large
expanses and heavier drapery weights.
47
Rings
Measuring for Rings
When ordering draperies with rings that are sewn to the panels,
measure from the top of the rod or pole to the length you want the
drapery to fall. Order this as your finished length.
•
•
•
•
•
•
1 width of fabric usually has 5 pleats
One ring for every pleat, plus 1 for leading edge, plus 1 for return
The return does not require a ring if you return it back to the wall
and secure with a screw eye.
When in the closed position, the edges of the drapery will overlap
each other, not just meet.
You do have the option of specifying pin hooks vs sewing on rings. This allows for the hem to be adjusted
and the drapery to be cleaned without removing all of the rings from the treatment.
Non pleated draperies= 4 rings per foot
Ring Chart
54” Fabric Widths
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
Panel- Rings Needed
7
12
17
22
27
32
37
42
47
Pair- Rings Needed
8
14
18
24
28
34
38
44
48
Includes return and overlap rings
Example:
•
•
•
125” finished width panel (one way draw) = 6 widths
Refer to Chart= 32
6 widths x 5 rings plus 1 ring for the overlap and 1 ring for the return.
To Figure Yardage, See Chart
on Page 45
“C” Rings
“C” rings are perfect for wider windows where
you have to support the rod every 4 feet or less
but would like to use decorative café style hardware. The “C” rings, along with the lower profile
brackets allow the draperies to traverse past the
brackets.
“C” Ring Example: A split stack drapery treatment that has a bracket to bracket measurement
of 160” would require 5 brackets. Bracket #1, #3
and #5 would be the standard bracket; bracket #2
and #4 would be the bypass
bracket so that the rings
could slide right over them.
The return and lead edge
rings could still be standard,
while the rest of the rings
are the “C” style so they can
move past the bypass
brackets.
TIPS:
• Decorative Traverse Rods do not always come
with enough rings. Some rod sets that extend to
120” may offer as few as 28 rings, so you would
need to order additional rings.
•
The number of pleats in a drapery is not always
set in stone! Allowance has to be made for fullness and hidden seams. However, if an exact
ring count is essential, contact the workroom in
advance and specify the number of pleats wanted
in a given treatment.
•
Price out the correct number of rings by looking at
the Unit of Measure. Most come as eaches, but
some come in bags of 4.
Traverse Rods
Standard Traverse Rods: Used for any treatment that is functional or the client will be
opening & closing often. Kirsch Superfine Traverse rods are for standard treatments. When
the draperies are closed, the rod is hidden from view by the pleated drapery heading.
When open, the rod is visible unless a top treatment of some kind is installed over the
draperies, which would then conceal the rod.
When using medium to heavy weight, interlining, and/or blackout lining, we recommend
going to Double Duty or Heavy Duty cut-to-measure rods. These are not much more
expensive...it’s worth the few extra dollars for a much heavier duty track.
Decorative Traverse Rods: Select, Kirsch, and Paris Texas Hardware have
many Decorative Traverse Rods. These look like decorative rods with finials,
but have the functionality of a traverse rod.
One-way draw: one return and one master carrier that projects over the end of
the rod when the panel is drawn. Pulls a single panel all the way across the
glass in one direction.
Two-way draw: opens a pair of draperies from either the center of the window
or off center (to balance a room). 2-way draw rods have two returns and two
carriers that overlap in the center when the panels are drawn.
Traverse Rod Options
Decorative Fascia Options
• United Supply
• Select Traverse– most recommended
• Kirsch Studio Coordinates (only for lightweight weight fabrics)
• Kirsch Estate Ultra in front with Studio Coordinates in back (only for lightweight weight fabrics)
• Easy Pull from Paris Texas Hardware
Decorative Fascia on front with basic traverse track behind
• United Supply
• Select Traverse with basic track in back in Bronze or Aluminum
• Kirsch Estate Ultra offers this with Architrac in back in Aluminum or White
• Kirsch Estate Ultra or Studio Coordinates offers this with Superfine in back in White
• Easy Pull from Paris Texas Hardware offers this with the Easy Pull track in back in Bronze, Gold or White
Decorative rods for side panels in front with traverse rod in back
6” projection bracket with decorative rods & finials combined with a Select Traverse rod without fascia
Any decorative double traverse rod with fascia– remove the cord and fix the carriers in the position desired
Easy Pull from Paris Texas Hardware offers an “Over-Bracket” for use with a decorative wood pole in front
and an Easy Pull track in back. Any 2” or 2-1/4” round wood pole can be used with this bracket; a photo of
this bracket is shown in their Easy Pull catalog.
•
•
•
Traverse Rod Tips
•
All of the basic traverse rods from Select Traverse, Kirsch Architrac, and Paris Texas Easy Pull
require the drapery to be hung below the track.
•
Kirsch Superfine rods are the only traverse rods that allow the drapery header to come up in front
of the track, they are available in White only. Reminder: the only pleat style suitable for this rod is
the French Pleat.
•
Studio Coordinates rods are only to be used with lightweight draperies.
•
Double Duty and Heavy Duty Assemble, Cut-to-Measure Traverse rods are the best choice for a
white traverse set.
48
49
Calculating Rings using Number of Widths
Rings for a PAIR of split stack draperies:
A 3 width pair of draperies will have both returns & overlaps. There are 5 pleats per 54” of fabric.
+1 Overlap
+1
+1
+7 pleats
+1 Overlap
1 1/2 width
+7 pleats
1 1/2 width
How to calculate: (example shown as 54” fabric @ 3 widths)
3 widths (1 1/2 + 1 1/2) = 14 pleats/rings (7 pleats each side)
PLUS
Add 2 rings for returns (each side) = 2 rings
Add 2 rings for overlaps (each side) = 2 rings
TOTAL RINGS NEEDED PAIR= 18
Rings for a drapery PANEL: (no split—one way draw)
Panels have one overlap and one return only. There are 6 pleats per 54” of fabric.
+1
+1
+5 pleats
+5 pleats
+5 pleats
1 width
2 width
3 width
How to calculate: (example shown with 54” fabric @ 3 widths)
5 pleats x 3 widths = 15 pleats/rings PLUS
Add 1 ring for 1 return = 1 ring
Add 1 ring for 1 overlap = 1 ring
TOTAL RINGS NEEDED PANEL = 17
Customer Service Issues
Q: The bottom hems on the drapery are uneven
or draperies are too long or too short.
Possible Answers:
⇒ Check the pins! The pins may not be evenly set
in the header. Bad pins can affect 2 pleats at
once, so make the adjustments.
⇒ Floor is uneven.
⇒ Installer steamed the fabric too much and the
fabric elongated.
⇒ Not fabricated properly.
Q: Side by side panels are not the same length.
⇒ Fabrics react differently in some environments.
There is an industry tolerance of anywhere from
1/4” to 1/2”.
⇒ A drapery is first tabled and hemmed before it is
pleated. It should be even when it is completed,
however, if a pleat is sewn slightly off during the
pleating process, it can throw the hem off.
⇒ This could be considered a vendor error if the
client is highly dissatisfied.
Q: Pin holes showing light
⇒ When a treatment is reworked or repaired, there
is a possibility the fabric will show pin holes
where the seams have been ripped open.
⇒ Some fabrics will not show pin holes, but sheers,
silks (shown below), and velvets will always
show.
Q: Fabric is wrinkled
⇒ Silks and linens are naturally wrinkly
⇒ Installer can steam the treatment (never steam
silk)
⇒ Wrinkling will occur If the installer does not
remove the merchandise from the box and install
it ASAP. The longer it takes for the merchandise
to be installed, the greater the risk of wrinkling.
⇒ Installer can hang the treatment to prevent
wrinkling.
Q: Vertical stripes are not consistent in the
heading
⇒ Vertical stripes are ‘at the mercy’ of the pleat
spacing and pleat depth required to finish the
drapery at the width requested.
⇒ Sell a top treatment to cover the pleats.
Q: Pleats not sewn at even widths or lengths
⇒ Vendor error.
Q: Size of the drapery is incorrect
⇒ Do not assume the drapery is fabricated at the
wrong size.
⇒ Have the installer or designer re-measure the
drapery and compare it against the specifications
ordered. If it is the same as what was ordered,
re-measure the window.
⇒ Determine if the drapery rod or the drapery pins
could be moved to correct the problem.
Q: Drapery closes at the top on a traverse rod,
but not at the bottom.
⇒ The installer grabs the leading edge of the
drapery panel at the bottom, folds it at about 3
feet on the bias and slightly stretches the fabric.
Normally, this corrects the problem.
⇒ If a pair, this must be done to both leading edges
of the drapery.
Q: Drapery is not full enough
⇒ Custom drapery is sold at 2.5 to 1 fullness.
Sheers are sold at 3 to 1 fullness.
⇒ The designer must communicate fullness to the
client and help the customer visualize by showing
pictures.
Q: Client not happy with look of treatment
⇒ Have either the designer or the installer check
the workmanship and the specifications of the
product. Sometimes certain fabrics are not suited
for a design used.
Q: The hems on the loose weave fabric of the
drapery are uneven. They were even when
the drapery was installed.
⇒ Fabric characteristics.
⇒ Explain to the client the hem will move with the
humidity in the room. Fabrics will hold moisture
and then go back to their original state once the
air becomes dry again. If the client does not
understand this process and wants a new
drapery made, do not make it in the same fabric
because it will have the same result.
50
Customer Service Issues
Q: There is a large seam going through the
drapery. Client does not want a seam.
⇒ Drapery weight fabric comes in widths of 48”,
54”, 60”, and 118”. If it is a pleated drapery, the
seams will be hidden in the pleats. If drapery is
not pleated, the seams will be visible.
⇒ 2 width pair will have no seams.
⇒ 3 width pair will have a seam on each panel
toward the outside.
⇒ 4 width pair will have a seam on each panel in
the middle of each panel.
Q: Short shipment of hardware
⇒ This may be a designer ordering error. Refer to
the unit of measure.
⇒ Installer’s often say they “didn’t receive” the
hardware when it is actually in their office.
Q: Drapery or sheers not opening all the way on
a standard traverse rod.
⇒ Installer may not have “broken” the heading
forward allowing the pleats to stack against each
other with the folded space forward between
them.
⇒ Unused slides may not have been removed from
the rod.
Q: Not enough fabric shipped by the vendor
⇒ This is not an issue when the treatment is being
fabricated using national workroom.
⇒ Did the vendor measure the accurate amount?
⇒ Did the designer not determine the right amount
of fabric needed?
Q: Snag in draperies
⇒ Fabric is inspected on a light table at the fabric
source and inspected for flaws. Silk has ‘slubs’
that are part of the beauty of the fabric.
⇒ Pulled thread or snag in the fabricated
treatment, may be the responsibility of
fabricator.
⇒ It also may have occurred during the installation
Q: Polyester sheers or face fabric drapery are
not hanging in neat folds.
⇒ Polyester retains memory better than any fiber.
From this it gets the wrinkled characteristic that
polyester is known for. This should be explained
to the client at the time of sale by the designer.
⇒ Have the installer dress the treatment in the
open position and attach paper ties. These
should stay on the treatment for at least three
days.
⇒ Consider having memory stitch added or
interline the draperies to keep the pleats true.
Q: Drapery and cornice boards all in the same
room do not match in color.
⇒ Products are often in different areas of the room
where the lighting is different. They are also
fabricated using different backings.
⇒ Lined drapery will have light bleed through even
though they are lined. At night they will appear
darker and richer in color.
⇒ A cornice board is fabricated on a wooden board
and then padded making it impossible for the
light to bleed through at all. Hanging over the
drapery during the day, the cornice fabric may
appear to be a different dye lot to the client,
when really it is not. At night, the drapery and
cornice will be the same.
Q: Client states that drapery is not full enough.
⇒ Traditional pleated drapery is sold at 2.5 to 1
fullness. Sheers are sold at 3 to 1 fullness. Flat
header drapery mounted using rings can vary
from 1 1/2 to 2 to 1 fullness. The designer has
no way to show the client the fullness
differences other than to compare what he or
she is selling to what they already have hanging.
Q: Cornice box is too wide over the drapery.
⇒ Over a drapery, the cornice should have a face
width 4” wider than the drapery bracket to
bracket.
51
Pricing & Ordering
You must use the Pricing/Sell Factor sheets for each channel to apply the appropriate channel discount. These sheets will show you
which vendors and products are approved to sell for each channel.
•
•
•
Fabrication order forms are located under the “Forms” section
on the website
All order paperwork is submitted to CDI, then CDI places the
orders with the vendors.
Minimum 8 weeks delivery to the home
US
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Window Coverings Fax Cover Sheet
Contract – Applies to CDI Direct and Macy’s only
Window Plans Form – Applies to Costco Online only
Home Improvement Agreement: In-Home Decorating/
Installation Detail Sheet – Applies to The Home Depot
only
Preparing For Drapery Installation
Installation Detail Sheet
Quotes (Carole/Kasmir) or Vendor Fabrication Forms
Other forms that may be needed
• Window Coverings Change Order
• Completed Re-Measure Form
• Cancelled Order Form
• Notice of Cancellation – applies to Costco Online only
• Home Improvement Agreement: Addendum – Applies to
The Home Depot only
CANADA
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Fax Cover Sheet
Job Summary
Installation Detail Sheet
Preparing For Drapery Installation
Vendor Fabrication Forms
Vendor Purchase Order Forms
Costco Special Order Form
• Costco Register Receipt
Other forms that may be needed
• Window Coverings Change Order
• Completed Re-Measure Form
• Cancelled Order Form
• Notice of Cancellation – applies to Costco only
Setting the Right Expectation
You must cover these three key
points on every appointment:
1. Fabric Characteristics such
as wrinkling, drapeability, & flaring
2. Treatment Characteristics
including visual appeal and
function, such as roman shades
will hourglass and will not be
flat as a board or fully functional
drapery must be on a traversing
rod.
3. Treatment Proportions such
as location on wall, fullness,
length & width, stacking
Fabric Reserves & Stock
Checking
The #1 delay on orders right now is
backordered fabrics...can you believe it? Make sure that you are
checking the availability of the customers fabric before you have left
the house.
•
•
•
Go online or call the vendor to
check stock
Place a reserve immediately by
calling or emailing vendor
Reserve good for 5 days
If you have any hesitation if the fabric should be re-reserved….ReReserve It!
52
Pricing
Drapery Pricing
Hardware Pricing
Price through the fabrication website such as
CaroleNet or through the fabrication guides. If you
cannot price your treatment or style on CaroleNet
then you must submit a quote request to the vendor.
The pricing is at retail, apply the appropriate channel sell factor.
Carole & Paris Texas Hardware (60mark retail)
Prices are at 60mark, simply apply the sell factor to
retail price. Ordering direct to Paris Texas Hardware?
Use the 60 mark price list found in your Carole Hardware binder and apply the appropriate sell factor.
1. Choose the Fabric– fine price group
2. Choose the Treatment Style
3. Price the Treatment
a. Find the fabric price chart
b. Find the width and length
c. Add embellishments and surcharges
d. Determine retail price, then apply price
factor to get sell price
-ORUse the Carole, Kasmir or DSC quoting websites.
Refer to the CaroleNet Cheat Sheet for instructions.
Print the quote and submit it with your order to Order Entry. The quote acts as the purchase order
form.
TIP: All pricing online is Retail, apply Sell Factor
Crating Charges
Add freight or crating fee’s for any treatment
(hardware or board mounted valances) over 100” in
length to the price of the treatment.
Details and prices are found on the Sell Factor/
Pricing sheets. These large sizes require a crate to be made and a
truck shipping method which
can cost more than the rod
itself. List these charges on
the Contract. CaroleNet includes this in the Retail cost.
Installation
United Supply- Kirsch, Select and Gifer
When you order hardware from United
Supply you use a completely different
formula than any other drapery product. Using the Wholesale Cost price
lists use the Dealer Cost, or most often Full Pack Price.
Formula:
Full Pack Price or Dealer Cost x 2 = Retail
Retail x Sell Factor= Customer Price
Example: Superfine Traverse Rod (March 15, 2010
Kirsch Price List)
1. Find Cost (full pack price)
Single Traverse – Drop In two way draw rod,
pg 45 Item #3027
Full Pack Price = $27.39
2. Calculate Retail price
Multiply full pack price x 2 = suggested retail
$27.39 x 2= $54.78
3. Calculate Sell price:
Retail price x Sell Factor
$54.78 x .90 (Costco sell factor) = $49.30
Hardware TIPS:
•
Confirm the Unit of Measure. How the product
is packaged: each, pairs or quantity of rings per
package. Please note on order form. This will
insure that you are ordering the correct quantity.
•
Always round up products priced by the foot
•
Our vendors will cut wood or metal poles in set
lengths (4’, 6’, 8’) down to required size when
requested: $5.00 per cut.
•
USC recommends cutting poles down to 105” or
less, when possible, for shipping purposes. This
will avoid unnecessary and costly truck shipments.
•
Note: (2) 6 foot poles cost less than (1)12 foot
pole.
•
All curved or bent rods require a template.
Use your installer detail sheet to figure installation
charges and always include the Fuel Surcharge.
53

2010 Drapery Certification Manual v2

Transcription

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