MALÉ. THE OLD TOWN

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VAL DI SOLE
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ITINERARIES
IN VAL DI SOLE
1. MALÉ. THE OLD TOWN,
THE PARISH CHURCH AND THE MUSEO
DELLA CIVILTÀ SOLANDRA
2. A SHORT WALK FROM MALÉ
3. A SPECIAL WALK:
FROM CROVIANA TO DIMARO
4. ALONG OLD STREETS, TO THE CHURCHES
AND THE CASTLE OF CALDÉS
5. OLD AND NEW IN VAL DI RABBI
6. AT THE HEART OF THE VALLEY:
ST. AGATA IN COMMEZZADURA
7. THE CASTLE OF OSSANA AND PARCO
DELLA PACE
8. A JEWEL TO BE DISCOVERED: THE CHURCH OF
ST. MARIA AT PELLIZZANO
9. THE PAINTING CYCLE DEDICATED TO
ST. MARIA MADDALENA AT CUSIANO
10. THE MARKS OF A DIFFICULT PAST IN PEJO
11. AT THE NORTH-WESTERN BORDER
OF TRENTINO: PASSO TONALE
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Pag.
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OUTSIDE VAL DI SOLE
12. FROM CLÉS TO TÓVEL,
Pag.
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HOME TO THE BROWN BEAR
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13. ST. ROMÉDIO ALPINE SANCTUARY
AND CASTEL BRAGHÉR
14. TRENT, THE CAPITAL OF THE PRINCE-BISHOPS
15. BOLZANO: NOT ONLY ÖTZI,
THE MAN FROM SIMILAUN
16. MERANO, THE CRADLE OF THE TYROL HOUSEHOLD
17. THE SAN MICHELE MUSEUM AND THE EARTH
PYRAMIDS OF SEGONZANO
18. A TOWN WITH A RICH CULTURE:
ROVERETO AND CASTEL BESENO
19. A TOUR OF THE MOUNTAIN PASSES:
TONALE, GAVIA, STELVIO AND PALADE
20. ALONG THE NEW ROAD TO PROVEIS
AND INTO VAL D’ULTIMO
21. TRENTINO’S WINE FACTORIES AND DISTILLERIES
22. THE PRODUCTS OF TRENTINO: “MONDOMELINDA” AND THE VALLEY’S DAIRIES
- A WIDE RANGE OF ALTERNATIVE ITINERARIES
Cover picture: Halley’s Comet above the church of Comasine (photo by Bernardi)
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Votive altar
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his far away corner of Trentino, with thousands
years of history witnessed by castles, churches
and noble mansions, has a discreet charm that
must not be savoured in haste.
It is not only the view of nature, always spectacular
with water flows, glaciers, mountains, forests and
Parks, that nourishes peoples’ souls: culture is also
playing an important role.
Archaeological remains are scanty (they are housed
in the castle of Buonconsiglio in Trent); instead, the
last ten centuries’ history is witnessed by the
presence of holy buildings and fortresses all around
the region’s territory (Castel Caldés, the Rocca of
Samoclévo, Palazzo Pèzzen at Croviana, Castel
S. Michele at Ossana, Palazzo Migazzi at Cogolo).
If these buildings recall the Middle Ages of warriors and aristocrats, the churches bear witness to
people’s history using an easy, accessible language:
devotion, Saints protectors, frescoed paintings,
wooden sculptures, high level religious archi-
tecture. Especially in late medieval and baroque
times, Val di Sole was an excellent safe, that is
worth opening and enjoying in tranquillity.
The distances to reach the Valley’s centres are
quite short, and mostly served by public transport
(coach links at convenient times and the local
railway, Ferrovia Trento Malé tel. 0463 901150);
a cycle track also runs along most of Val di Sole.
All this makes it easier to reach the very soul of
the territory.
Before going for a visit, namely to visit churches
and chapels, don’t forget to ask for opening hours.
Many holy buildings were the object of thefts and
acts of vandalism in the past, and therefore are
often closed.You will however get the information
you need by telephone. Other areas of great
interest can be visited without any problem (such
as the Parco della Pace at Ossana or St. Rocco at
Peio); most can be easily visited though it may
need some programming.
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to Cles,
Trento
Bolzano
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MALÉ. THE OLD TOWN,
THE PARISH CHURCH AND THE
MUSEO DELLA CIVILTÀ SOLANDRA
building of administrative offices, you can see the
church dedicated to St. Luigi (18th Century, it was
first dedicated to St. Giovanni Nepomuceno,
protector against floods): the 17th Century altar is
by the Ramus family.
Not far from the main square is located the Museo
della Civiltà Solandra, housing a permanent exhibi“La Stua” at the Museum
tion of cultural and working traditions of Val di
he administrative centre of Val di Sole is a little
Sole.The craftsmanship of carpenters, blacksmiths,
town of ancient origins, probably Roman.
farmers, cattle farmers, weavers and coppersmiths
Malé’s role as a Parish centre is witnessed since
are displayed along with the life settings of the
1178, but most probably dates back
Valley’s ancient inhabitants and with
to the Longobard and Carolingian
an accurate exhibition of original
ruling (7th -9th centuries). Malé is an
tools and a reconstruction of workimportant trading centre and tourist
places. The core of the museum is
resort, as well as a communication
represented by a stùa, the best room
hub (Trento-Malé railway).The town’s
in the valley’s traditional houses
present look results from an opposi(coming from Val di Rabbi). A visit to
tion of historical buildings to some
the Museum allows a meeting with
other buildings that were rebuilt after
the longstanding culture of the local
the 1892 fire. The event spared the
population, not only superficial or
church, that is located at the town
based on pure nostalgia.
centre, in a square that, for many St. M. Assunta Parish Church Malé offers several opportunities for
centuries, was used as a parvis and a
a relaxing stroll. Walking past the
graveyard: a lean shrine, dedicated to St.Valentino,
river Noce, you’ll get to a thick fir wood forest
rises in front of the Romanesque-gothic façade of
at Regazzini. Not far away, by a chapel dedicated
the Parish church. The portico, featuring lean
to St. Biagio, a famous market fair used too be
columns, has a typical Renaissance style (1531).
held since the Middle Ages (the so called mercato
The church’s interior has 1 nave and 2 aisles. The
del Bosco, the wood market). The chapel used to
walls and the presbytery were masterfully frescoed
provide shelter for travellers (reported as early as
by Pino Casarini (a painter from Verona). The two
in 1274).
alters located by the presbytery have a typical Val
di Sole baroque style; the pulpit by G. D. Bezzi
(1670) is remarkable. The painting of the Nativity
Malé
was made by M.Teofilo Polacco (1614). The left
aisle houses an imposing baptismal font, that for
centuries served all the villages in lower Val di
Sole, including Rabbi. The side chapels boast some
17th and 18th Century items.
At the Western outskirts of Malé, integrated in a
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A SHORT WALK FROM MALÉ
MALÉ-SAMOCLEVO: KM. 4,5
MALÉ-BOLENTINA: KM. 5
The Rocca of Samoclevo
T
he presence of the torrent Rabbiés nearby, has
fostered in Pondasio since very ancient times,
the work of millers and blacksmiths. There are
some mill remnants and an old water-driven forge
is still operating, where iron is forged and
processed according to traditional techniques.
Going up from Pondàsio to the tiny village of
Magràs, the church dedicated to Saints Egidio and
Marco (late 15th Century) is worth a visit. Notice
the lean stone ribs on the walls and the precious
altars made of painted, gold-plated wood. Further
up from Magràs, Arnàgo is made of a bunch of
houses clustering around the 1638 chapel dedicated to St. Romedio (housing a nice statue of
the Saint). At the foot of the hamlet is located a
convent (convento dei Cappuccini), that was built
at the beginning of the 19th Century after the
tremendous fire that had burned down the friars’
house in Malé (1892).
The Torraccia at Terzolas
Not far from the convent, amidst the orchards,
appears Terzolàs. At the centre of the village the
imposing mansion of the Malanotti noble family,
called “Torraccia” stands out against the other
buildings. The building, dating back to the early
16th Century, has typical corner jutties and large
rooms with ancient frescoes. The church of
Terzolàs (early 19th Century), in late Baroque
style, housesseveral painting by local
artists.
Further up from Samoclévo, a
small hamlet of Caldés
clustering around the
church of St. Vigilio,
you can see the remnants of the Rocca,
ten minutes from the
village. Only the
damaged outer walls
and an imposing
square tower are what
remains of the old building. The Counts, who
replaced the Caldèsio family, held the castle as the
stronghold of a desperate
Forge at Pondasio
resistance during the socalled “guerra rustica” in 1525. And the PrinceBishop of Trent awarded the households of
Samoclévo, who had been faithful, with a rural
noble title. The Rocca was built before the 13th
Century and it was used to monitor the Valley’s
old Imperial road, that ran a little uphill compared
to the existing one.
From Malé, along a road going up with large
hairpin bends, you will reach the villages of Bolentina and Montés (at 1,200 mt asl approx. dating
back to medieval times). Beside enjoying a magnificent landscape, the 16th Century solitary church
of St.Valentino is certainly worth a visit.
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A SPECIAL WALK:
FROM CROVIANA TO DIMARO
MALÉ-CARCIATO: KM. 5,5
Altar in the Church of St. Lorenzo
L
eaving Malé towards Tonale, along a flat road,
you’ll reach Croviana (km. 1,5), a village of very
ancient origins, that was famous during the Middle
Ages as the collecting point for the “decime”
(duties) that the local population used to pay to
the Prince-Bishop of Trent. The Pèzzen family
palace-castle is towering as you enter the village
(the owners were little nobles coming from Valtellina, who had moved to Val di Sole during the 15th
Century, when the iron mines began to be harnessed). Further up, the small church of St. Giorgio
boasts two masterfully carved wooden altars
(17the Century); another one is located in the
Pèzzen noble chapel, that was built and frescoed
during the early decades of the 17th Century.
The Toll House at Dimaro
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From Croviana a little lane winds among meadows
(km. 1,5) to Monclàssico, an ancient village dating
back to the second Iron Age. The village boasts
several noble mansions (such as the Valenti’s) and
a few late Medieval
corners (the so-called
“pòrteghi” and Amblài).
The village houses are
overlooked by the
church of St.
Vigilio, housing
remarkable
baroque altars.
Continuing a
little farther
along a quiet
road, after 1
km you’ll get
to Pressón.
The portals
decorated with
stone coats of arms
witness the past of
some noble households;
the little church, built in 1630,
The Church
is boasting the main altar-piece,
of St. Lorenzo
as well as a majestic baroque
alter located in a masterfully constructed side
chapel.
Going across the river Noce you’ll reach Dimaro
(km. 1), that is a passageway to Campiglio and
Val Rendena. The Toll House, managed by the de
Mazzis noble family, was used to collect custom
duties. In the church of St. Lorenzo there are some
frescoed paintings dating back to the late 15th
Century, a refined work of the Baschènis, as well
as some baroque wooden altars. The walk can
continue up to Carciàto, a quiet rural hamlet near
Dimaro, characterised by large rural houses and a
small church of the 16th-18th Centuries.
ALONG OLD STREETS,
TO THE CHURCHES
AND THE CASTLE OF CALDÉS
MALÉ-CAVIZZANA, GOING THROUGH THE HAMLETS AROUND
CALDÉS: KM. 10,5
road, has a small church dedicated to St. Tommaso
(15th Century) that embellishes the tiny village.
A little further up you’ll get to St. Giacomo –
whose old name used to be Solàsna –. Its church
Castel Caldes
stands out like a jewel amongst robust rural
buildings. The church houses two altars with a
aldés welcomes visitors with its three bell
wooden altar-piece (that was built in the 17th
towers. The oldest one rises in the village
Century by the Bezzis, a family of woodsquare and dates back to the 13th
carvers from Cusiano).
Century; it is almost a guard looking
St. Giacomo is part of a number of
over the so-called “strada dei cavasmall villages that have been tradilieri” (the knights’ street), that splits
tionally
referred to as “le capèle”.
the village into two sections. The
These are located along the Valley’s
little road is lined with some
main road and boast some ancient
typical old buildings, that used to
churches (such as the one of Saints
be the dwellings of local rural
Pietro and Paolo at Bozzana, or of
noble households; stone coats of
the Annunciata at Bordiana). On the
arms and portals are a witness of
opposite side of the valley is located
Medieval times, as certainly is the
Cavizzana: its church is dedicated to
castle in the eastern part of
St. Martino (one of the protectors of
Caldés. The castle was built
Longobards). Inside the church there
between the 13th and the 17th The church of St. Giacomo
are four masterfully carved altars
Centuries and recalls old legends
(that were probably carved by the Ramus and by
of unhappy lovers. The Castle belongs to the
the Bezzis, whose workshops were
Provincia Autonoma di Trento and is currently
Cavizzana
in upper Val di Sole during the
being restored (It cannot be visited inside). In the
17th and 18th centuries).
interior, boasting large halls and stone staircases,
you will also see a chapel with frescoed paintings of
remarkable artistic value. To the opposite side of
the village rises the little church of St. Rocco, built
after the plague of 1510, whose series of wall paintings is now almost completely lost; the 17th Century wooden alters have been preserved.
Past Caldes, an easy road (km. 1) takes to the area
called “Còntre”, a quiet picnic area on the righthand side of the river, that here flows a little
quieter that elsewhere. From Caldés you will
easily reach the small villages clinging to the
Southward side of the mountains.
Cassana, very close to the Valley’s main
C
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OLD AND NEW
IN VAL DI RABBI
MALÉ-SOMRABBI-RABBI SPA -RAGAIOLO: KM. 20
The “masi” at Valorz
T
o the side of Val di Sole, easily accessible from
Malé, Val di Rabbi winds up amongst the
mountains for 19 km., showing its wild nature like
in ancient times. The mountain slopes are steep
and covered with conifer forests dotted with small
hamlets, and there are bountiful water courses.
The bunches of houses dotting the valley’s slopes,
particularly the sunnier ones, are all scattered
around, as is more typical of Tyrol than of Trentino. However, the valley’s inhabitants – that
settled here some 8-9 Centuries ago – come
from Val di Sole: Rabbi was used as an exhaust
valve due to the population growth in Val di Sole,
and offered a precious resource with its Alpine
pastures and timber production.
Isolated for a long time, the valley has preserved
its ancient dialect, and leads to a more meditative
lifestyle comparing to other stretches of Val di
Sole. The historically important centres are
Pracorno, St. Bernardo and
The Spa Centre
Piazzola; however, there are
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plenty of hamlets, boasting one of the most
precious and typical landscape element: hundreds
of masi (small rural houses providing shelter to
both people and cattle, built in timber and stone,
with a roofing made of larch tiles) are dotting the
meadows and visually convey the idea of a culture
that has been able to put utility and beauty
together.
S. Bernardo has a modern church, however masterfully adapted to the surrounding environment, and
The Venetian sawmill
boasting works dating back
to the 15th –18th Centuries.
Not very far you will see the remarkable spa facilities, whose renown is attributable to the healing
properties of their water, well known since the
17th Century. Behind the spa centre, an 18th
century “Veneziana” water-driven sawmill is still
operating and run by the Stelvio National Park
organisation. A short walk away, you’ll get to the
Ragaiòlo waterfalls. Continuing further up, you’ll
get an opportunity to enjoy an enchanting
landscape, where Alpine pastures are dotted with
“malghe”, typical long and narrow buildings that,
during the summer months, provide a shelter to
cattle and tools for the production of genuine
butter and cheese.
AT THE HEART OF THE VALLEY:
ST. AGATA IN COMMEZZADURA
MALÉ-MEZZANA: KM. 10,5
St.Agata’s Church
A
lmost midway between the Mostizzòlo bridge
and Passo Tonale, Commezzadura includes
several villages boasting ancient names; some of
them date back to pre-Roman times, others from
the Middle Ages: Deggiano, Mastellina, Mestriàgo,
Almazzàgo, Piano. Each boasts its own church. The
most renowned of all is St. Agata, that rises close
to the Valley’s main road. Dating back to 1400, it
features and asymmetrical plant.The church boasts
a huge frescoed image of St. Cristoforo, painted in
1495 on the side wall facing the road. In the presbytery and on the apse Simone Baschènis, coming
from a family of travelling painters in the 15th and
16th Centuries, frescoed some biblical images as
well as the history of St. Agata, protector of the
church. The three carved and gold-plated wooden
alters are also precious, as well as the saints’ statues, namely the wonderful late Gothic Madonna.
At Mastellina rises the little church of St. Antonio
the abbot (that in the past belonged to Campiglio),
that has preserved some late 15th Century
Mastellina
frescoed paintings from the Baschensis and a
precious altar with three 15th century statues by
artists from Bolzano (Madonna between St. Antonio and St. Giovanni Battista).A short way from the
church rises the Guardi’s house. They used to be
a family of the rural nobility (as witnesses the coat of arms above the
entrance portal), who became
renowned thanks to the artists that
sprung of it: Gianantonio, Maria
Cecilia (married to the famous
Venetian painter G. Battista
Tiepolo) and Francesco.
The Guardis emigrated
to Venice where they set
up an art workshop.
Francesco stood
out of the rest,
and showed his
pictorial genius
in the “views”
of the Venetian
lagoon, but also
provided witnesses of the most
important episodes in The Church at Mezzana
Venice’s 18th Century life.
Piano is the last hamlet of Commezzadura (fine
wooden alters to be seen in the village’s little
church). A few kilometres from here, you’ll get
to Mezzana, a winter sports as well as a canoekayaking resort. The village’s church houses some
precious 17th Century alters. Going further up
from Mezzana, in some 20 minutes you’ll get to
Róncio, a panoramic balcony over the valley and
its mountains.This is a tiny little village with almost
no inhabitants, boasting a nice shrine dedicated to
St. Romedio: the rich decorated alter is by the
Ramus and Bezzi families and dates back to the
17th Century. Going further uphill from Róncio,
you’ll reach some solitary mountain “masi”.
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THE CASTLE OF OSSANA AND
PARCO DELLA PACE
MALÉ-OSSANA: KM. 16,5
The Castle of St. Michele
T
here are not many castles in Val di Sole (Caldés,
Croviana, Ossana, Cógolo): this is a consequence of the extreme independence of the local
population and of the careful control of the
Prince-Bishops of Trent (1004-1802) on this
border area of their domains. The castle
of St. Michele at Ossana very likely
dates back to the Longobard
times (6th - 8th Centuries), although
the first written
witnesses of its
presence are to
be found in 1191.
Several
noble
households inhabited the castle:
first there were
some Bishop officials, then - at different times - the Counts
St.Vigilio’s Church
Tirolo-Gorizia. During the
15th Century, the appointment went to the de
Federici family, from the nearby Val Camonica;
then to the Heydorf and Bertelli families. Between
the 19th and the 20th Centuries, Bertha von
Suttner, Nobel Prize winner for peace in 1905 as
well as Alfred Nobel’s Egeria nymph, shared the
ownership of the castle. The castle (which cannot
be visited inside) is located in a magnificent position: it rises on an rocky cliff (almost inaccessible
on three sides) that serves as a basis to the
recently reinforced building. The square tower is
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an eye-catching reference point throughout the
upper Val di Sole.
Ossana, former Parish in medieval times, boasts the
church of St. Vigilio (the Bishop who brought the
Christian religion into Trentino during the 4th and
5th Centuries): the façade is enriched by a Renaissance portico; both the main altar and the pulpit
inside are the job of the Ramus (who, along with
Lenner and the Bezzi family, represented one of the
most prestigious woodcarving schools in Val di Sole
and Val di Non.The baroque altar-pieces, that many
churches still boast today, were caved and goldplated in their workshops).
Fucine is a hamlet by Ossana, whose very name
(meaning forge) reminds us that most iron ore extracted in Val di Sole used to be melt and processed
here by Lombard workers, who finally influenced
the language spoken by the local inhabitants.
A little to the East from the village, at the foot of an
18th Century church, opens the former AustrianHungarian war cemetery, where over 1,400 soldiers victims of WW1 on the Tonale battlefront
were buried with military honours. The plane,
where rises a monument dedicated to the Kaiserschütze (by Othmar Schrott-Vorst, 1917), has
recently been renamed “Parco della Pace”, as a
symbol of fraternity amongst different countries.
An easy walk leads from Ossana up to Val Piana,
boasting a breath-taking view over the imposing
Ortles-Cevedale range (with the m. 3,645 high
mount Vioz) behind. Opposite Val Piana, the
view encompasses mount Gìner (m. 2955), linked
to the Presanella range.
“Parco della Pace”
A JEWEL TO BE DISCOVERED:
THE CHURCH OF ST. MARIA
AT PELLIZZANO
MALÉ-PELLIZZANO: KM. 15; PELLIZZANO-MENÀS: KM. 7
St. Maria’s Church in Pellizzano
I
n upper Val di Sole, on the right hand side of the
Noce, you will stumble into one of the most
representative examples of sacred art of the whole
region: the church dedicated to the Nativity of
Maria at Pellizzano. The church is set amongst an
urban area of remarkable historical value, dating
back to the late Middle Ages and to the Renaissance
periods, boasting noble mansions with coats of arms
on top of the stone portals. The church was decorated by several generations of fresco painters
(namely the Baschenis, from 1477 to 1533): both the
portico and the entrance wall are covered with
paintings.The most precious contents of the church
are its five altars, all finely carved and decorated and
matched by antique altar pieces. On top of the left
aisle is located the Disciplini alter, with a frescoed
painting by C. Vallorsa (1571), portraying the local
Compagnia dei Battuti. The Pellizzano church
houses several precious pieces of furniture: reliquaries, wooden gates (1626), Via Crucis, as well as
glasses and processional crosses of great value.
Outside the church, dominated by a powerful bell
tower, behind a delicious wrought iron gate, a
late medieval statue of the Madonna
col Bambino, also referred to as
the “Madonna of the drowned
ones” is venerated as part of
a cult rich of numerous
legends.
Three kilometres far from
Pellizzano, the road winds
up with several hairpin
bends to the so-called Lago
dei Caprioli (roe deer lake)
at Fazzón (m. 1301 s/m), a spectacular stretch of
water and a starting point for more difficult hikes in
the surrounding mountains.
The other side of the valley, along the sunny side
of the mountain range, is dotted with typical
villages, all linked to the bottom of the valley by a
good network of roads.
The first hamlet is
named Claiàno, and
boasts an 18th Century
eight-sided shrine; then
comes Termenàgo, with
its two churches (a
gothic and a neo-classical one). The little
hamlet named Castello
comes further up, with
the little church of St.
Donato dating back to
the 15th Century. Ortisé (at 1,479 m asl) was
home to the world-famous mycologist Giacomo
Bresadola (born1847- dead 1929): some of his
writings are exhibited at the Museo della Civiltà
Solandra in Malé). His work is recalled by the St.
Cristoforo chapel (with three late 17th Century
altars carved by the Bezzis).The village further up is
Menàs (m. 1517) with few houses clustering around
a poor chapel.
The mountain overlooking these small villages
offers outstanding views and a wonderful
peace. If you’ve got some spare
time, we suggest a walk towards
Malga Monte (following the
pathway that goes to Val di
Rabbi across Passo Valletta
(m. 2684) or towards Malga
Pozze, surrounded by peaks
of almost 3,000 metres.
St. Maria’s Church – interior
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THE PAINTING CYCLE DEDICATED
TO ST. MARIA MADDALENA
AT CUSIANO
MALÉ-CUSIANO-COMÀSINE-PEGAJA: KM. 27,5
St. Maria’s Church at Cusiano
N
ot far away from Ossana, right by the road
going towards Passo Tonale, between the
mountain side and the river Noce, lies Cusiano, a
hamlet of Rhaetian origins (here were
found some remains of a pre-Roman
castellar). A precious little church dedicated to St. Maria Maddalena stands
out in the village centre. In front of the
church there is a unique chapel emulating an open shrine and dedicated to
St. Rocco, protector of the plague
victims. Inside the church a cycle of
frescoed paintings realised at the end
of the 15th Century by Giovanni and
Battista Baschènis, whose family came
from Averara, in upper Val Brembana (Bergamo).
The paintings portray, in a very popular style, the
legend of Maddalena and her relations, Lazzaro and
Marta, in subsequent scenes with captions written
in 15th Century Italian. The keystones at the rib
crossings bear the coats of arms of Trent, of
the Tyrol and de Federici families from
Ossana, lords of the Castle of St.
Michele.
Leaving the Tonale road
some 100 metres past
Cusiano, you’ll get
into Val di Pejo (the
so-called Valletta);
St. Lucia’s Church
at Comasine
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going up along the left side of the valley – but to
the right of the river Noce – you’ll get up to
Comàsine, once famous for its iron mines. A tiny
lane goes from the village to a plane where is rising
the church dedicated to St. Lucia. This is a highly
evocative spot, not only because of the church
looks over the old cemetery, but also for a magnificent view over the high mountains all around. The
three rich alters that used to be in the church of St.
Lucia (dating back to the 15th and 16th Centuries)
and that may have been a gift by the
miners, are housed today in the church
dedicated to St. Matteo at Comàsine;
these are unanimously considered the
most precious in all Val di Sole.
Going back down along the valley main
road, continue up to Celledizzo. The
Parish church bell tower is next to St.
Antonio chapel, entirely covered with
frescoed paintings by the Baschènis
(1473). Cógolo comes immediately
after, boasting the ancient church dedicated to Saints Filippo and Giacomo (note the
frescoed paintings on the exterior) and the Migazzi
mansion. This lower noble family, coming from
Lombardy, settled in the village around the mid
15th Century. The most well-known member of
the Migazzi family was Cristoforo (1714-1803),
Bishop, and then cardinal, of Vienna 46 years long.
Along the road going up to Malga Mare, a starting
point of hiking itineraries in the Ortles-Cevedale
range, right past Cógolo, you’ll stumble into the
little Pegaja church, built before 1500 and sole
remnant of a homonymous village that was apparently destroyed by a landslide during the 15th
Century. The church’s outer wall boasts the image
of St. Cristoforo, protector of travellers and protecting those who look at him in devotion from
sudden death.
THE MARKS OF A DIFFICULT
PAST IN PEJO
MALÉ-PEJO-FORTE BARBA DI FIOR: KM. 32,5
St. Rocco’s Cemetery
T
he road from Malé to Pejo (some 30 km.
long) is an easy and evocative one. The village,
boasting pre-historical origins, looks like a magnificent panoramic balcony, offering an enchanting
view over the Brenta range. As you enter the
village you’ll get to an animal wildlife centre, where
you can have an opportunity to observe the
peaceful inhabitants of the Stelvio National Park,
including deer and roe deer. In this area it is rather
common to observe the golden eagle or the
bearded vulture gliding, especially if you take a
cable car to reach the foot of the snow-clad
Ortles-Cevedale range, at the foot of mount Vióz
(m. 3645). In Peio Paese, newly opened “White
War” Museum “Peio 1914-1918 - La guerra sulla
porta” (Info tel. 0463.753100).
A few minutes away from Pejo a tree-covered hill named Dosso di St. Rocco, houses a chapel dedicated to the Saint protecting the plague victims
(early 16th Century) and an Austrian-Hungarian
Forte Barba di Fior
war cemetery, where over 100 soldiers from
different countries were buried, victims of the
WW1 (1914-1918) battles waged along the nearby
battlefront of the so-called “White War”. A grey
stone pyramid, built in 1916, stands up as a warning
against the nonsense of war making.
From St. Rocco, at the beginning of Val del Monte,
you will see the ruins of a fort built at the beginning of the 20th Century: this is the socalled Forte Barba di
Fior, easily accessible
along the road that
winds up towards
the Pian Palù dam.
Turning onto a pathway going across the
river Noce, it is possible to climb up to
the solid military
building. Right opposite, along the other
side of the valley, it is
still possible to walk
up along an old military road going up to
St. Giorgio’s Church at Pejo
mount Vegaia where,
during the war, some Austrian-Hungarian military
camps were erected.
Pejo not only boasts some war memories: the
church dedicated to St. Giorgio houses magnificent
carved and gold-plated wooden altars (the main
altar dates back to the 16th Century). The bell
tower has a huge image of St. Cristoforo, that was
frescoed by the Baschènis in 1484, and bears
witness both to the talents of artists who lived a
long time ago, and to the solid devotion of the
valley’s people.
15
AT THE NORTH-WESTERN BORDER
OF TRENTINO: PASSO TONALE
MALÉ-TONALE: KM. 33
Built starting in 1860, the fort would be a barrier on
the road coming from Passo Tonale and provided a
defence against attempts of enemy invasions. Run
by some seventy soldiers and their commanding
officers, the fort was an efficient and well equipped
military work.
A cable car goes up from the Pass to the Preséna
Forte Strino
glacier, equipped with facilities for winter and
summer skiing. It is an easy walk providing an ops early as in the 13th Century, Passo Tonale
portunity to find some remnants of the First World
was known for its meadows and its road, that
War, that still often come out of the snow.
represented a resource for the peasants living
Vermiglio – including four hamlets – is
in Vermiglio, once the closest village to the
located less than 10 km away from
country border. The Pass is overlooked
Tonale. The village witnessed some
by the ancient hospice of St. Bartovery harsh times (including the
lomeo, whose bell used to give
deportation of all of its inhabitants
courage to the travellers who got lost
to Austria in August 1915), but was
in the winter fog. Its importance is
rebuilt on its own ruins. In the clear
due to the fact that, for several
and
peaceful church dedicated to St.
centuries, this was the borderline
Stefano,
a 17th century polychrome
between the Prince Bishop domain of
wooden
altar-piece
built in the Ramus
Trentino and Lombardy, subsequently
workshop
is
worth
seeing.
Some painbelonging to the Dukedom of Milan, to
tings
composing
a
modern,
unique Via
the Venetian Republic, to the e Kingdom
Crucis
are
hanged
on
the
nave
walls, and
of Lombardo Veneto and to the Italian
their
images
recall
the
history
of the
The
Presena
Glacier
Kingdom since 1860.The First World War
place.
Pizzano
and
Cortina
are
two
battles that were waged up here confronted the
hamlets
clustered
around
their
respective
chapels.
best troops of the opposing armies, and witnessed
The little, solitary church of St. Caterina, built on
three years of sufferings and heroic actions. The
the homonymous hill during the 15th century,
Austrian-Hungarian Empire (that included Trentino)
rises like in a painting. The large toll house, where
had been preparing to the conflict for a long time.
the officials sent by the Prince-Bishop of Trent used
Several forts had been built, efficiently equipped and
to collect custom duties, dates back to the same
forming a protecting belt against the enemy invaperiod.
sion. They were located at a certain distance from
A
the border: Forte Pozzi Alti (also known as Presanella), Forte Velón, Forte Mèro, Forte Strino and
Forte Zaccarana (the most modern and best
equipped of all). Today, following the ravages of the
so-called “recuperanti” (who went around looking
for metal scraps during the wars), the best
preserved fort is Forte Strino, that can easily be
accessed from the main road passing right nearby.
16
A “show” at Forte Strino
The Trento-Malé-Marilleva 900 Railway
Y
ou may use your own car or the network of
communications of Trentino Alto Adige to go
on a variety of one day trips. Some destinations
can be reached using the Trento-Malè railway or
the State railway, (Trenitalia tel. - without phone
code - 892021) starting from Mezzocorona. In
some other cases it is better to use one’s own car.
The range of possibilities goes from some tens
kilometres to some hundreds kilometres to reach
the farthest destinations. However, the tiredness
is largely overweighed by the extreme variety of
itineraries and by the cultural richness of the
destinations.
The South Tyrol region is an area that could be
surprising to some of you, featuring Bolzano, its
Museums and trading centre; or Merano, close to
the place of origin of the Japanese power; or
farther with Bressanone, centre of the Prince
Bishop domain. The open air Museum of Teodone,
by Brunico, conveys a good idea of the important
Alpine culture of the Centuries of the past.
The central-southern areas of Trentino offer two
main centres of interest:Trento, capital of an independent State 8 centuries long, and Rovereto, a
small town that was under the influence of Venice
between the 25th and the 16th centuries. Generally, the side valleys branching out from the Adige
valley are less known. However, the charming
expressions of nature in Val di Cembra or in Val
Rendena are going to surprise you. Those who go
for popular traditions should not miss the S.
Michele all’Adige Museum, an exhibition of past
local traditions. History and present go hand in
hand here, especially if we think of the so-called
“Civilisation of Wine”, a present activity with its
roots in the past: wine makers and fruit warehouses are always worth a visit.What is important,
if you want to go around and discover Trentino
starting from Val di Sole, is not to miss the overall
idea of an ancient land, that is proud to have mixed
history and life, culture and art, religiousness and
work in a very harmonic whole.
17
FROM CLÉS TO TÓVEL,
HOME TO THE BROWN BEAR
MALÉ-TÓVEL: KM. 32
FERROVIA TRENTO-MALÉ TO CLES - BY COACH TO TOVEL
The Cles Castle
F
ive kilometres after crossing the breath-taking
Mostizzòlo bridge comes Clés, the administrative centre of Val di Nòn.The little town boasts very
ancient origins (its name seems to come from “ecclesiae”, i.e. churches). In 1869, digging a little to the
north of Cles, a bronze plate was discovered, with a
decree by the Roman Emperor Claudio (from Baia
by Naples, 46 d. C.) confirming some privileges and
the Roman citizenship to the Valley’s inhabitants
(called Anàuni).Today Clés is a lively trading centre,
with some tourist accommodations, set amidst intensive fruit growing lands. The little town offers
three attractions: a castle, which cannot be visited
inside, - in a position overlooking the lake - dating
back to the 12th Century and inhabited by the noble Clés households (whose most famous member
was Bernardo, Prince-Bishop of Trent from 1514 to
1539, and for a long time Prime Minister of King
Ferdinand from Habsburg); the castle boasts large
halls and some remains of remarkable paintings.The
Parish church, dating back from the early 16th century, is the second attraction. Built in typical Cles
Gothic, the church is characterised by an interesting
The Tóvel lake
18
reticulate vault; on the right-hand wall of the nave
there is the gravestone of Giorgio Clés dating from
1490.The third interesting destination is the Palazzo
Assessorile, reportedly existing as early as in 1356;
it was rebuilt and frescoed during the 16th Century;
the interior has many frescoed painted rooms,
probably by Fogolino (1480-1540). A little downhill
from the little town you’ll find the Lake of St.
Giustina, a large artificial pond built for hydroelectric production (7.5 km long and 1.5 km large:
the lake has a capacity of 172 million cubic metres
water, whose power is harnessed
by the Taio power
station).
Four kilometres after
leaving Clés, you’ll get
to Tuenno (a fruit
growing centre, boasting a peculiar double
church dedicated to
St. Orsola); a 11 km
side road goes down The Assessor’s Palace at Cles
to the Lake of Tóvel. Just before turning into the
valley, where the torrent Tresénga flows, you’ll see
the 16th Century gothic church of St. Emerenziana
towering above a rocky cliff. Val di Tóvel winds up
among the steep slopes of Mount Peller-Castellazzo
and Cima Vallina to the North, and the cliffs of the
northern walls of the Brenta range. In the mid part
of the valley, over 17 km long, lies the Tovel lake
(1 km long and almost 600 m large, at 1178 m
above sea level).The lake is well known because of
the reddening of its water, due to a local microorganism. Unfortunately, the heavy anthropical
presence in the area has brought about the loss of
this peculiar feature. However, the lake remains a
magnificent example of lake environment, reflecting
fir trees and the Brenta cliffs. This area is one of
the favourite habitats of the brown bear, that is
being reintroduced with some individuals coming
from Slovenia.
ST. ROMÉDIO ALPINE SANCTUARY
AND CASTEL BRAGHÉR
MALÉ-S. ROMÉDIO: KM. 28;
MALÉ-CASTEL BRAGHÉR-TRÉS: KM. 28
St. Romedio Sanctuary
G
o past “le capèle” in Lower Val di Sole, across
the Mostizzòlo gorge (85 m high bridge) to
Clés and then Dermùlo. A little way past the St.
Giustina dam (152 m of height). From Dermùlo,
take the Upper Val di Non (Alta Anàunia) road up
to Sanzéno. The village, that bears witness to an
ancient evangelisation (it was here that three
martyrs were burnt in 397), boasts a gothic-Renaissance “basilica” featuring a very simple style, as well
as several chapels dating back from the Middle
Ages. In Sanzéno you’ll find signposts directing to
St. Romédio, starting from the parvis of the little
church of St. Maria (11th Century). The road runs
in a canyon lapped by Rio St. Romédio and, after
some 3 kilometres, gets to
the foothill of the cliff
where the sanctuary
is rising. The place
has a complex history, which is witnessed by the presence of various
buildings that have
been subsequently
raised over a period
of 900 years. The top
chapel (the so-called relics),
with pre-Romanesque columns
Castel Braghér
and late medieval paintings, was
reportedly inhabited by the hermit Saint around
the year 1000. Other chapels were subsequently
built in his honour, that slope down by steps on top
of the cliff (some 70 m high). The 1514 church of
St. Michele is remarkable, whereas the 1487 chapel
dedicated to St. Giorgio boasts some magnificent
frescoed paintings.The small convent of Franciscan
friars is clustered amongst buildings, on top of a
steep staircase with an entrance arch. It is a
solitary, spiritual site, appealing to the bears that
are housed nearby, in the memory of a legend that
St. Romédio would have ridden the bear that had
devoured his horse.
Taking the main road backwards, you’ll
go down to Taio. From there,
along an easy road (km.
1,7) you can reach the
well preserved Castel
Braghér. The castle is
private and not opened
to the public.The fortified
building is protected, on
A brown bear
three sides, by the cliffs, and is
located amidst a fir tree forest.
The castle dates back to the 13th Century and subsequently became the property of the powerful
Thunn household .The building, that looks massive
and animated in the meantime, is protected by
towers, and features a covered bridge and a square
tower, that now is inside the Counts’ palace. In the
castle courtyard rises the little church of St.
Celestino (consecrated in 1462), that boasts an
outstanding set of frescoed paintings attributed to
Leonardo from Bressanone: the images describing
Christ’s passion are characterised by a powerful
dramatic style. Opposite the chapel rises the
Count’s palace, the noble dwelling of the castle
inhabitants (dating from 1600), housing a precious
private archive and a unique collection of 16th and
17th Century paintings from both Italy and North
European countries.
From Castel Braghér, the little village of Trés (3
km.) is well worth a visit, especially the little church
of St. Agnese, boasting an important cycle of 15th
Century frescoed paintings.
19
TRENT, THE CAPITAL
OF THE PRINCE-BISHOPS
MALÉ-TRENTO: KM. 60
FERROVIA TRENTO-MALÉ
Piazza Duomo in Trent
I
f you are bound to Trent from Val di Sole, you’d
better leave your car and take the Trento-Malé
railroad. You’ll enjoy a relaxing and interesting trip
(1h and 20 min) all along the Lower Val di Sole and
Val di Nòn, going past dozens of villages overlooked
by old castles. The last 20 km in Val d’Adige are
winding amongst magnificent vineyards (Piana Rotaliana) and are overlooked by the Paganella (2,125 m).
Trent used to be a Roman “municipium” (some
traces are still there), but its origins are to be found
in the Rhaetian times. Very little remains of the
subsequent barbarian rule - Ostrogoths, Longobards, Franks. The town was actually brought to
new life when it became part of the Sacred Roman
Empire of the German Nation (around 970) and
then as it became a Bishop County (from 1004 to
1802).The two centres of Church and Civil power,
that ruled together in this tiny Alpine state almost
800 years long, were the Cathedral (near Palazzo
Pretorio) and the Buon Consiglio Castle. The
Prince Bishops lived in the fortified mansion since
the 13th Century: it is a highly articulated building
resulting from subsequent additions to the original
pre-Romanesque core. Magno Palazzo (commissioned by the Bishop and Cardinal Bernardo Cles
in the 16th Century) and the Giunta Albertiana
(late 17th Century) were
The Trento-Maléadded to Castelvecchio.
Marilleva 900 Railway
The Castle interior
houses museums and
tombstone collections and boasts
magnificent noble
rooms, the so-called
20
“camere” or “stùe”. During the Cles dominion, the
rooms and halls were richly decorated with
frescoed paintings by Court painters Dossi, Fogolino and Romanino, and enriched with Zacchi’s
terra-cotta. Quite unique are the frescoed paintings
in the “Torre dell’Aquila”, an outstanding example
of international Gothic art (the Cycle of Months,
dating from 1390).
At the centre of town you’ll see the cathedral, a
masterpiece by the Lombard craftsmen Adamo
d’Arogno and sons, from the Como Lake.
Originally it was a chapel
The
housing the grave of the BishBuonconsiglio
op St. Vigilio (5th Century),
Castle
that was subsequently rebuilt
and rearranged during the
13th Century, under the rule
of Prince Bishop Federico
Wanga. The cathedral conveys
an idea of strength and serenity: the exterior features a massive bell tower, completed in the
Baroque era, and a rosette to the
North (Ruota della Fortuna), as well as an
interesting façade overlooking the square; the interior is characterised by a severe simplicity. Beside
the 18th century canopy of the main altar opens
the entrance to the underground classroom, where
you will find helpful information to understand
the subsequent stages in the Church’s erection.
Palazzo Pretorio houses the rich Museo Diocesano
(closed on Mondays), featuring 16th Century
Flemish tapestries as well as the “tesoro del
Duomo” (the Cathedral’s treasure). The town is
enriched by number of other monuments: St. Maria
Maggiore, the remnants of he Roman rule, St.
Lorenzo, Palazzo delle Albere, Piazza Fiera: the
town centre is a pedestrian area where you will
enjoy doing some shopping. In the surroundings,
Villa Margone ( Renaissance times) and Dòss Trent
are worth a visit.
BOLZANO: NOT ONLY ÖTZI, THE
MAN FROM SIMILAUN
MALÉ-BOLZANO PER LA
MÉDOLA: KM. 62;
75
FERROVIA TRENTO-MALÉ TO MEZZOCORONA
STATE RAILWAY TO BOLZANO
ON HIGHWAY KM.
Bolzano’s Cathedral
R
einhold Messner and Hans Kammerlander
were hiking along a 1000 km itinerary around
South Tyrol (from 10 September to 20 October
1991), when, on 21 September, they happened to
make an outstanding discovery: a mummy was
coming out of the glaciers near Similàun. It was
the corpse of a prehistoric hunter, equipped with
an axe, an arch and quiver; he was wearing strawpadded leather footwear on his feet. The mummy
of “Ötzi, the man from Similàun” was moved several times (including a stay at Innsbruck), to eventually come back to South Tyrol.Today it is housed
in a special section of the Bolzano Museum, where
it draws thousands of visitors, fascinated by the
mythology of a man coming from prehistory.
However, Bolzano is something more than a mere
mummy: well known under the Longobard rule,
the South Tyrolean centre had previously been a
Roman military centre (Pons Drusi), and then a
Bavarian dominion.The town subsequently became
part of the Bishop County of Trent (1004), to
which it belonged for centuries. As a consequence
of usurpation and donations, it subsequently
became part of South Tyrol, but still kept close
contacts with Trentino (it still belonged to the
Tridentine diocese).
The oldest area in town includes the gothic Cathedral by Piazza Walther, dedicated to the Assunta
and dating back to the 12th and 14th Centuries,
featuring a 65 m high bell tower. The church, built
with one nave and two aisles, boasts several works
of art dating from the 15th to the 20th Centuries,
including the magnificent baroque main altar. A
late 13th Century Dominican church is met not
far from the Cathedral. It houses outstanding
frescoed paintings (in the 1340 chapel dedicated to
St. Giovanni) and boasts a beautiful 15th Century
frescoed cloister.
At the most typical core of Bolzano you will find
Piazza Erbe, home to a lively fruit and vegetable
market, that used to house the pillory for thieves.
The arcades starting in Piazza Erbe are the little
town’s shopping centre. Dozens of elegant, wellsupplied shops follow one another on both sides.
They are located in buildings dating back to the
15th – 18th Centuries featuring decorated jutties
(Erker) and fine portals.At the middle of the arcade
covered road rises Palazzo Mercantile, where the
four renowned fairs of Bolzano used to be planned.
The meeting room houses a rich collection of
works of art.
Otzi: the man from Similaun
In the surroundings of Bolzano, apart from several
castles that have been recently opened to the
public (like Castel Róncolo), there are plenty of
evocative walking itineraries. In the outskirts of
town, you may visit the Gries Benedictine abbey,
boasting a magnificent baroque church. The old
Parish church features a carved altar piece completed by the Tyrol artist Michael Pacher.
21
MERANO, THE CRADLE OF THE
TYROL HOUSEHOLD
MALÉ-P. PALADE-MERANO: KM. 74
A view of Merano
A
cross Passo Palade (via Mostizzòlo, Revò and
Fondo; or also via Clés, Dermulo, Fondo), go
down into Upper Val d’Adige
against a typical Alpine setting,
continue past Tesimo and leave
Castel Leone on the right-hand
side. Past Lana (the church of
Lana di Sotto by the graveyard
boasts an imposing 16th Century gothic altar), continue on
the road that leaves Val d’Ultimo (to the left) and winds
amongst orchards, vineyards
and castles (13th Century Castel Lebensberg at
Marlengo), until you get to the bridge that crosses
the river Adige and enters Meran, going by a
famous hippodrome at Maia Bassa.
The South Tyrol little town is an important tourist
attraction boasting a lively, ancient centre with
arcades flanked by shops, bars and restaurants.The
Arcades lead to the Cathedral, built between 1367
and 1495, that features a big
Castel Tirolo
22
St. Cristoforo painting above the gothic portal. At
the exterior, notice the imposing bell tower (83 m
high) and the chapel dedicated to St. Barbara
behind the apse (housing a gold alter painted alter
from 1450). The interior, with one nave and two
aisles, features several 15th Century altars, painted
and gold plated.The statues of the Apostles on the
presbytery date from the 19th Century.
From the arcades you can reach the Prince Castle
(home to the Archduke Sigismondo between 1449
and 1480). The interior, with
narrow but fine rooms, gives a
good idea of a Tyrolean noble
mansion (guardroom, chapel,
bedroom, dining room, playroom); each room is enriched
with antique pieces of furniture. Not far from the Castle,
you can visit an interesting
City museum.
In the Maia Alta area the
Trauttmansdorff Castle gardens are well worth a visit.
Merano was the birthplace of the Tyrol Counts
(from the 12th Century to1363 this used to be the
ruling household, that was subsequently replaced
by the Habsburg family). The Tyrol Count castle,
that can be attained with a 30 minute walk from
the little village named Tyrol (at 3.7 km from
Meran), is one of the most representative monuments in the whole region. The collections of the
archaeological Museum are worth visiting, as are
the large Sala dei Cavalieri (the Knights’ Hall) and
the two-storey chapel (with a huge crucifixion
painting from a German school dating from the
14th Century). The chapel features precious
Romanesque portals, enriched with symbolic
images; a wonderful view can be enjoyed from the
Sala del Trono. Walking down back from Castel
Tirolo you can take an alternative way (little preRomanesque church dedicated to St. Pietro, Castel
Thurnstein) that leads to the Meran railway station.
THE SAN MICHELE MUSEUM
AND THE EARTH PYRAMIDS
OF SEGONZANO
MALÉ-S. MICHELE-SEGONZANO: KM. 70
A detailed view of the museum
A
s early as on 29 September 1145, the monastery of San Michele all’Adige welcomed the
Augustinian religious, invited by the Bishop of Trent
Altemanno.Their convent, supplied with a precious
library, acted as a beacon of Tridentine culture until
the dissolution of the religious order in the early
19th Century. The Augustinians were skilled in the
art of vine growing, and taught its secrets to the
local peasants. In 1869, the Provincial Diet of Tyrol
purchased the building and devoted it to the Istituto Agrario (an association of farmers set up in
1874), adding a new building beside the existing
ones. The medieval section articulates around a
triangular courtyard, enriched with a loggia and a
three-sided cloister.
Since 1972, the former monastery – excluding the
18th Century baroque church – has been
housing a prestigious ethnographic
Museum, featuring some 40
exhibition rooms.The museum
gathers items pertaining to the history, the
economy, the religious traditions, the
folklore and the
habits of the Trentino people. Some
skilled amateurs
have enriched the
Museum
with
Earthen
pyramids at
Segonzano
purchased items and donations, in an effort to
maintain the links with people’s past.
Going through the exhibition, you will learn about
the techniques of wine-making, distillation and
milling; agricultural activities are represented by a
complete collection of farming tools; the sections
dedicated to metal fabrication, spinning and pottery
exhibit the respective artisan tools. A great attention is granted to such activities as woodworking,
alpine pasturing and traditional cooking. The
museum provides some interesting examples of
furnishings and both working and holiday garments.
The Museum’s exterior
All this contributes to making the Museum a fundamental reference point for whoever is eager to
know about Tridentine history and cultural traditions. If you continue towards Lavis (to the North
of Trent), you can take the road getting into Val di
Cembra to Segonzano. The place is well known
because of the peculiar statues that Nature has
been sculpturing in the valley’s scree. Four different
types of “pyramids” contribute to a unique landscape: some have a sort of porphyry “cap” casting
its shade over them (and weighing up to several
tens of tons); others are arranged like an organ’s
pipes, others are as sharp as blades. A legend tells
about fairies and elves, that were turned into stone
because of a mysterious spell cast at the beginning
of human history.
23
A TOWN WITH A RICH CULTURE:
ROVERETO AND CASTEL BESENO
MALÉ-ROVERETO: KM. 84
FERROVIA TRENTO-MALÉ TO TRENTO
STATE RAILWAY TO ROVERETO
with frescoed paintings.The castle belonged do the
Trapp household almost 500 years long, and was
donated to the Province of Trent (that directed the
restoration of the castle) during the 1970s.
You’ll get to Rovereto from the Northern outskirts, after going by Castel Pietra (recalled by
Piazza Rosmini
Macchiavelli in 1508) and across Volano (fine church
dedicated to St. Rocco, entirely frescoed in the
n order to reach the so-called “Città della Quer16th Century). The town centre boasts ancient
cia” (meaning “oak town”, this is the heraldic
origins: it reportedly dates from the Iron Age, then
name for Rovereto), you’ll have to drive all along
was conquered by the Romans and subseVal Lagarina, among vineyards and several
quently by German tenants in the Middle
villages scattered on both sides of the
Ages.The town walls were erected by the
river Adige. Each centre has its own
Castelbarco family (13th-14th Centuries);
historical background, as the valley witlater on the town belonged to Venice
nessed the passage of plenty of armies,
(1416-1509), whose presence is witemperors and prelates; and namely Barnessed by the castle (now housing a war
barossa, Maximilian 1st from Habsburg,
museum) and the church of St. Marco
Charles 5th , Pope Pio 6th, Napoleon and
(1462). During the following centuries,
Franz Joseph. As you approach the town,
Rovereto almost became the Tridentine
you’ll get by a little church recalling the
intellectual capital (with three music
royal wedding of Teodolinda and Autari.
chapels, the Accademia degli Agiati, and
Right before getting to Rovereto, you’ll
several celebrities such as Tartarotti,
meet Castel Beséno, overlooking the The “Peace Bell”
Vannetti, A. Rosmini, R. Zandonai; in 1769 young
Adige plane and the passageway into the Folgaria
W. A. Mozart played two concerts here). The silk
plateau. Rather than a castle, this is a group of feudal
industry prospered in town for almost four
buildings encircled by walls of almost 250 metres
centuries, and was coupled by the paper industry
length and some 100 metres large.The current look
during the 18th Century. Rovereto is still the
of Castel Beséno dates from the 16th Century, but
centre of a quite important industrial area.
the medieval fortress was erected on top of a preBeside the buildings described above (that were
vious prehistoric core.The building bears the marks
damaged by the bombardments of the First and
of its subsequent dwellers, who built trails, towers,
Second World Wars), the 19th century palaces
spiral staircases, traps, weapon-pits
(particularly Palazzo Rosmini),Teatro Zandonai, the
and had some rooms
Valbuse, the City Museum of Natural Science, the
decorated
Modern and Contemporary Art Museum (Mart,
Castel
Museo d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea), as well
Beseno
as the church of the Carmine are also worth
seeing. Three kilometres far from the centre, on
the Miravalle hill, is located the so called “Campana
dei caduti” (the fallen soldiers’ bell) (weighing 2.26
tons, 3.36 m high and with a 3.21 m large opening;
car park along the opposite avenue).
I
24
A TOUR OF THE MOUNTAIN
PASSES: TONALE, GAVIA, STELVIO
AND PALADE
DA
On the way to Passo Tonale
A
close-up meeting with the ice-clad giants at
the border between Trentino, Lombardy,
Switzerland and South Tyrol: this expression could
summarise the tour that includes four Alpine
passes. The itinerary encircles the whole Stelvio
National Park (135 thousand hectares).
From the Upper Val di Sole, continue to Val
Vermiglio and go up, past Vermiglio and along the
Austrian-Hungarian fortifications (Forte Strino)
opposite the white Presanella slopes (m. 3556).
Passo Tonale (m. 1883) is a wind-beaten plateau,
known as a winter and summer skiing resort (on
the Preséna glacier) that used to mark the borderline with Italy. The monument-ossarium, built after
the First World War (1914-1918) is now part of
Lombardy. The road goes down with a series of
hairpin bends towards Ponte di Legno. A little way
before getting to the Lombard tourist resort, leave
the main road and turn right into an easy carriage
road; after 16 km. - between Mount Gavia (m.
3223) and the Corno dei Tre Signori (m. 3360) – go
across the Gavia Pass (m. 2621), and then down to
S. Caterina Valfurva (at 13 km. distance you will
meet an interesting ethnographic museum).
Bormio, that you will reach after 13 kilometres,
has historically served as a point of control over
Down from
Passo Stelvio
MALÉ: KM. 254
the most important Alpine passes.
From the little town, following a road that goes
along an old military track (opened between 1820
and 1825), climb up for some 22 kilometres to
Passo Stelvio (m. 2758), linking Valtellina to Val
Venosta (cable car taking up to Rifugio Livrio, m.
3174, 15 minutes). The way down to Spondigna
(km. 27) is overlooked by the Ortles shining peaks
(m. 3905), and goes through thick forests and little
holiday resorts (Trafoi, Prato allo Stelvio: little
Romanesque church dating from 1100; Gomagoi).
Val Venosta, starting at Resia (at the border with
Austria and Switzerland) where the river Adige
flows looks like a long hollow dotted with typical
hamlets: Lasa (boasting white marble quarries),
Silandro (set amongst large orchards and a powerful Renaissance castle), Laces (featuring Gothic
buildings), Castelbello, (overlooked by its ancient
castle), Naturno, dominated by the 13th Century
Juval Castle, since 1983 dwelling of the renowned
mountaineer Reinhold Messner. At 14 kilometres
from this village, you will drive at the outskirts of
Meran, offering a large view over the region’s
castles; then take the Palade road, running by Lana
and climbing up with large hairpin bends towards
Passo Palade (m. 1512). On the way down the Pass,
not very distant from it, a road on the right gets
to the sanctuary known as Unsere Frau in Walde
(the Madonna of Senale), housing some magnificent
baroque wood altars and a Madonna venerated
since the Middle Ages.
From Senale (14 km.) continue down to Fondo, a
farming centre and tourist resort in Upper Val di
Non.There are two ways back to Malé: either you
drive all the way down to Dermulo, then turn right
to Clés and Val di Sole, or you leave the main road
at Fondo, and continue towards Brez, Cloz and
Revò – amongst the orchards – to eventually join
the main road to Malé at the Mostizzòlo bridge.
25
ALONG THE NEW ROAD TO
PROVEIS AND INTO VAL D’ULTIMO
MALÉ-S. GERTRUDE VAL D’ULTIMO: KM. 50
Val d’Ultimo
T
he stretch of Val di Nòn furthest to the North
was inhabited, as early as in the 13th Century,
by German populations. They started to farm the
mountain slopes and worked as miners in the local
quarries. These Northern peoples introduced one
of their living traditions: they settled in scattered
rural houses, ruled by the so
called law of the “maso chiuso” (providing that a family’s
entire property and land is
inherited by the eldest son).
Another typical feature of
these Northern population
is the German language, by
which they differ from the
other inhabitants of the valley. The German speaking
community is still present in
the villages of Laureino and
Propesi (Lauregno and Proves)
as well as in the area around
Masi in Val
Passo Palade (St. Felix and Unsere
d’Ultimo
Frau in Walde - or Madonna di
Senale). These are high mountain villages, once
almost totally isolated from the rest of the South
Tyrol inhabitants by the mountain range that acts
as a barrier to the North. A few years ago, a
panoramic road was opened, that links these little
Val di Non villages to Val d’Ultimo, and hence to
the Meran and Bolzano region, allowing the local
inhabitants to avoid a long and tortuous itinerary
to get there.
26
Take from Malé towards Clés: at the Mostizzòlo
bridge, go up to Revò (featuring numerous noble
mansions, such as Càmpia, and a beautiful church
erected during the 15th Century in GothicSwabian style). Hence, just before entering the
village, a road indicated by clear signposts turns to
the North-West, going past Tregióvo. At Frari, by
the turning point towards Rumo (that boasts
several hamlets with magnificent 15th Century
churches with frescoed paintings), continue to the
North, up a series of hairpin bends going towards
Proveis. The new road does not go by Laurein
(Lauregno, 1,182 m of height, was the legendary
fatherland of King Laurino, sovereign of the
Dolomites), neither by Proveis (featuring a big,
neo-gothic Parish church), but continues along
bends and tunnels past the mountain between
Ilmenspitz and M. Luco. Going steeply downhill,
the road heads towards Val d’Ultimo and eventually
joins the valley’s main road between St. Pancraz
and St.Walburg.
Some forty kilometres long, the valley (Ultental)
features several South Tyrol typical villages, whose
“masi” still maintain the old traditions (such as the
procession of the Magi). The region, covered with
thick forests, offers a superb series of winter
sports facilities and boasts a small ethnographic
museum (traditional buildings in St. Walburg). The
highest village is St. Gertraud, by the Stelvio
National Park, which is the starting point of hiking
routes towards the Sternai (m. 3443) peaks and
to Val di Rabbi, a side
valley of Val di
Sole.
Schützen
TRENTINO’S WINE FACTORIES
AND DISTILLERIES
DA MALÉ: KM. 50
FERROVIA TRENTO-MALÈ
The Rotary Cellars
A
n easy trip of some 50 kilometres gives an
opportunity to start from the forest-covered
Val di Sole through the orchard-growing Val di
Nòn, to visit the most dedicated area of Trentino’s
vine growing: the so-called Piana Rotaliana and the
hills East of Lavìs. The plain no longer resounds
with the thunder of battling between Longobards
and Franks: in “Europe’s most beautiful vine
garden” you can savour the taste of another kind
of fight, though less harsh, more tasty and
perfumed: the one that turns vine grapes into
prestigious wines, that are amongst the best of
Trentino.
The trip around a glass of wine can start in the
very “sancta sanctorum” of the area’s wine factories, the one belonging to the Istituto Agrario of
St. Michele all’Adige. In the basement, where the
Augustinian friars used to go silently by for over
six centuries, today the co-operation between
highly skilled vine growers and wine experts allows
the production of wines of outstanding properties.
Through their competence and skills, they ensure
the highest quality of the wine that is bottled.
From Teròldego to Nosiòla, from the various types
of Chardonnay to Pinot: each crop offers an excellent product.
Seven kilometres to the South, you are off on a
visit to another wine sanctuary: the Cantina La•Vis
(tel. 0461 249519), whose emblem shows a large
vine leaf. At the foothill of an evocative hilly area
top class vines are growing: Chardonnay, Pinot,
Müller Thurgau, Cabernet, Lagrein. These are very
well-known vine names throughout Europe, from
which delicious D.O.C. wines are made. The wine
making tradition is very old: the so-called
“Rhaetian vines” were already grown here in
ancient Roman times.
Back on our steps, across the river Adige, midway
between Mezzocorona and Mezzolombardo, let’s
have a visit to the “Cittadella del vino” (tel. 0461
616300), an impressive work of architecture by
Cecchetto, who got inspiration by the Tridentine
pergola to design a modern building. On a sandy
ground, formed by the sediments of the rivers
Noce and Adige over the centuries, grows
Teròldego – a unique local vine that, according to a
17th Century historian, would make “vini muti che
fanno parlare” (mute wines who make people
speak), Lagrein, Cabernet, Pinot bianco and Pinot
grigio, as well as Schiava. An excellent sparking
wine is also produced according to the old
traditions, belonging to the family of “Talento Trento Doc”).
At Mezzocorona, in the Bertagnolli Distillery
(tel. 0461 603800) the alembic distils a sparkling
Tridentine grappa (eau-de-vie), a vine product that
deserves to be put on a same level with the best
French cognacs and Anglo-Saxon whiskies.
“The blood of those who do not drink – does not
flow lively from their vases to their heart ” quotes
the Greek Pseudo Pindaro. But pay attention:
“est modus in rebus”, even drinking
requires a wise balance!
The
Bertagnolli
distillery
27
THE PRODUCTS OF TRENTINO:
“MONDOMELINDA”
AND THE VALLEY’S DAIRIES
MALÉ-SEGNO KM. 25; MALÉ-MEZZANA: KM. 10,5;
MALÉ-TERZOLAS: KM. 2
FERROVIA TRENTO-MALÉ, LINE COACH
Cheese making
O
ur land, set at high altitudes amongst mountain
peaks, is not as fortunate as others in terms of
fruit and vegetable growing. The climate is harsh,
the farming land is almost always steep. However,
our land is no mean: beside the vineyards - especially widespread along the river Adige
sides and producing famous wines as
well as respectable spumanti (sparkling
wines) - the Val di Nòn slopes are thick
with thousands of orchards. During the
Middle Ages, this area was known as the
region’s granary, which was due to the
skills and genius of its inhabitants. In the
fields, by the mulberry-trees and the
vines, were already flourishing apple and
pear trees, as well as quince trees and
medlar trees.As late as in the early 18th
Century, this area was famous in Vienna for its
fruit output, while, towards the end of the same
Century, Napoleon himself could enjoy the apples
that a valley’s nobleman had offered him.
Today Val di Nòn is a huge orchard; three sorts of
apples are mainly grown by local farmers as well as
by those in Lower Val di Sole: the Canadian QueenApple, Golden Delicious e Red Delicious. The fruit
is processed and marketed through modern facilities, partly directed towards the export markets.
You do not need to go a long way to have an
overview of the local fruit-growing activities or to
taste the savour of their output “MondoMelinda”,
at Segno, is a sort of Mecca of Doc apples.The visit
is not only intended as an occasion for sampling
food. Instead, it is an occasion to introduce beginners into the world of co-operative work, that in
28
the Bleggio area (western Trentino) was introduced
as early as in 1890, to further expand across the
whole province of Trento. Co-operatives gave very
positive results, as they helped to overcome misery
and to contain emigration from these lands.
Our territory has also a proven, longstanding tradition in another area, namely in cattle growing and
dairy production. These activities used to be the
main source of living – along with sylviculture and
agriculture – for the inhabitants of Val di Sole
and Upper Val di Nòn. There are
certainly fewer cowsheds today than
there used to be, but there are several
thousands cattle. Their milk is used to
make genuine products, such as butter
and cheese, that still contribute to the
Valley’s economy. Though some small
“caseifici turnari” (cheese making factories with a typical shift organisation)
are still operating in the Valley, as they
used to do in the past, most of the dairy
production is concentrated in two modernly
equipped, efficient facilities: the Caseificio Presanella
in Mezzana ant he Caseificio Cércen in Terzolàs. A
visit to each of them might be an instructive and
tasty occasion to know about dairy tech.
“MondoMelinda”
1
Val di Genova, Nàrdis and Làres waterfalls: a
wild and charming natural show (km. 40).
(Info 0465 501007).
2
Innsbruck: historically the administrative centre
of Tyrol, featuring an imperial church and Court,
as well as the Tyrolean Museum of Art and Folk
Traditions, the Ferdinandeum (arts and history
museum); several monuments, churches and
castles (Ambras) that you will surely enjoy
visiting (Malé km. 180; can be reached by train
from Mezzocorona). (Info 0043 51259850).
3
Livigno: duty-free shopping centre offering plenty
of good buying opportunities, to the Northern
Side of Italian Alps (km. 187, via Tonale, Aprica,
Tirano and Bormio). (Info 0342 996379).
4
St. Moritz: in Switzerland; majestic views over
the surrounding peaks and glaciers above 4000
metres of height; the road is flanked by the Bernina railroad (Trenino Rosso, Europe’s highest
railway line). (Info 0041 818373333).
5
6
7
Garda Lake and Toblino: the outstanding lake of
glacial origins (Benacò in Latin), featuring a mild
Mediterranean climate, has a total length of 52
kilometres allocated between three provinces:
Trent, Brescia and Verona (km. 80, via Campiglio,
Tione and Passo del Ballino down to Riva; as an
alternative, by motorway from St. Michele to
Rovereto Sud and Mori-Riva). At 17 kilometres
from Trent (leaving the motorway in Trento
Nord), amidst the Sarca mountains lies the
romantic Lake of Toblino with its 11th Century
castle. (Info 0464 554444).
Spormaggiore, in Val di Nòn, with an open view
over the Valley and the Brenta range; is the home
to a wildlife centre whose aim is to monitor and
observe the brown bear, introduced on the
mountains nearby (km. 40). (Info 0461 653637).
Fondo: a farming centre and tourist resort in
Upper Val di Nòn; at 20 minutes to the North, a
botanical pathway leads to the little Lago Smeraldo, set against a magnificent background of fir
and larch trees (km. 33). (Info 0463 830117).
8
Ponte di Legno: summer vacation and winter
sports resort, at the foothill of Tonale and not far
from the Adamello; at eight kilometres to NorthEast the typical Viso houses are worth seeing
(km. 41). (Info 0364 91122).
9
Val di Brésimo: a narrow Alpine valley overlooked
by the remnants of the Altaguardia castle; at 13
kilometres from Basélga; following an easy mountain road, you’ll get to Malga Bordolóna (km. 25).
(Info 0463 530310).
10
“La Strada del Vino” (Wine road): a land rich in
vineyards and orchards, boasting the Lake of
Caldaro and overlooked by old castles. Passo
Méndola (m. 1363) provides a link between Val
di Nòn and Val d’Adige (in South Tyrol); the
magnificent view from the nearby Monte Pénegal
is not to be missed (km. 57 to Appiano: the road
going up to Passo Méndola is 10.5 km long).
(Info 0471 345245).
11
Teodone and its ethnographic Museum: in Val
Pusterìa by Brùnico: three hectares of rural buildings at the Maso Mair am Hof, featuring South
Tyrol’s peasant civilisation. (km. 92).
(Info 0474 552087 - 0474 555722).
12
Val Ridanna: at the foothill of Pan di Zucchero, it
offers the emotion of visiting an old mine that
was already operating in the Middle Ages; by
Vipiteno, boasting paintings by Michael Pacher
(km. 145). (Info 0472 656364).
13
Bressanone: ancient centre of the Prince Bishop
domain; Prince Castle (crib collection) and a
remarkable old centre (Cathedral, Parish church,
Via Portici). At 4 kilometres to the North, visit
the Romanesque abbey of Novacella (charming
baroque church) (km. 95). (Info 0472 836401).
14
Pietralba sanctuary: erected during the 16th century, with a baroque church and a majestic view
of the Catinaccio (km. 79). (Info 0462 241111).
15
Capodiponte: boasting the Park of rupestrian
engravings at Naquane (from the Neolithic Age
to the early Christian times, 4000 years long,
on some 100 rocks) (km. 78). (Info 0364 42080).
29
USEFUL ADDRESSES AND TELEPHONE NUMBERS
AZIENDA PER IL TURISMO DELLE VALLI DI SOLE, PEJO E RABBI
V.LE MARCONI, 7 - 38027 MALÉ (TN)
TEL. 0463.901280 - FAX 0463.901563
[email protected] - www.valdisole.net
TOURIST INFORMATION
OFFICES VAL DI SOLE
MUSEUM AND CASTLES
☎
OPEN YEAR ROUND
Malé
Folgarida
Mezzana/Marilleva
Passo Tonale
Peio
Cogolo
Dimaro
0463.901280
0463.986113
0463.757134
0364.903838
0463.753100
0463.754345
0463.974529
SEASONAL OFFICES
Commezzadura
Marilleva 1400
Ossana
Pellizzano
Rabbi
Vermiglio
0463.974840
0463.796306
0463.751301
0463.751183
0463.985048
0463.758200
TRANSPORTS
Ferrovia Trento Malé Marilleva
Malé
0463.901150
F.S.Trenitalia
(without code) 892021
STELVIO NATIONAL PARK
Cogolo - Via Roma, 65
Rabbi - Loc. Bagni
Cogolo di Peio
30
0463.746121
0463.985190
0463.754186
IN VAL DI SOLE
☎
Museo della Civiltà Solandra
Malé - Via Trento
0463.901272-901780
Museo of Dairy Traditions
Rabbi - località Somrabbi
0463.903046
“White War” Museum
Vermiglio
0463.758144
Forte Strino
Vermiglio
0463.758200
White War Museum “Peio 1914-1918”
Peio Paese
348.7400942
IN TRENTINO
Folklive Museum of Trentino
S. Michele A.Adige
Buonconsiglio Castle
Trento
Natural Science Museum
Trento - Via Calepina
Diocesan Museum - Trento
“G. Caproni” Aircraft Museum
Mattarello di Trento
Castel Thun - Vigo di Ton
Castel Stenico
Stenico - Val Giudicarie
Castle of Rovereto
and Historical War Museum
Rovereto
Mart - Rovereto
Castel Beseno - Besenello
Sabbionara Castle - Avio
Palafitte Museum
Molina di Ledro
0461.650314
0461.233770
0461.270311
0461.234419
0461.944888
0461.657816
0465.771004
0464.438100
0464.454110
0464.834600
0464.684453
0464.508182
☎
TOURIST ASSOCIATIONS
AND TOURIST BOARDS
☎
A.P.T.
A.P.T.
A.P.T.
A.P.T.
A.P.T.
A.P.T.
A.P.T.
Trento
Bolzano
Merano
Piné e Valle di Cembra
Rovereto
Garda Trentino
Campiglio, Pinzolo,
Val Rendena
A.P.T. Bormio
A.P.T. Val di Fiemme
A.P.T. Val di Fassa
A.P.T Val di Non
Pro Loco Val d’Ultimo
Pro Loco Cles
Pro Loco “Le Maddalene”
Pro Loco Tovel - Val di Non
0461.983880
0471.307000
0473.232000
0461.557028
0464.430363
0464.554444
0465.442000
0342.903300
0462.241111
0462.601113
0463.830117
0473.795387
0463.421376
0463.530310
0463.454023
CHEESE FACTORIES - APPLES
Caseificio Presanella Mezzana
0463.757282
Caseificio Cercen Terzolas
0463.901431
Mondo Melinda Segno (Val di Non) 0463.469299
WINE FACTORIES
AND DISTILLERIES
Associazione Vignaioli del Trentino
Trento
0461.911957
“La• Vis”
Lavis
0461.249519
Distilleria Bertagnolli
Mezzocorona
0461.603800
Rotari - Cittadella del vino
Mezzocorona
0461.616300-603906
Istituto Agrario
S. Michele all’Adige
0461.615111
Cavit
Trento
Casa Marchesa Pallavicina
Mezzolombardo
S. Leonardo
Borghetto all’Adige - Avio
Castel Noarna
Nogaredo
F.lli Pisoni
Pergolese
Cantine Ferrari
Trento
F.lli Dorigatti
Mezzocorona
Casa del Vino della Vallagarina
Isera
Cantina d’isera
Isera
De Tarczal
Marano d’Isera
Spagnolli
Isera
Cantina Valle di Cembra
Valle di Cembra
Maso Martis
Martignano
Pojer e Sandri
Faedo
Balter
Rovereto
Madonna delle Vittorie
Linfano di Arco
Conti Bossi e Fedrigotti
Borgo Sacco Rovereto
Maso Poli
Pressano
Letrari
Borgo Sacco Rovereto
Longariva
Borgo Sacco Rovereto
Grigoletti
Nomi
Maso Cantanghel
Civezzano
0461.381711
0461.603303
0464.689004
0464.413295
0461.563216
0461.972311
0461.605313
0464.486057
0464.433795
0464.409134
0464.409054
0461.680010
0461.821057
0461.650342
0464.430101
0464.505542
0464.439250
0461.658514
0464.480200
0464.437200
0464.834215
0461.859050
PLAN: A.P.T. Valli di Sole, Peio e Rabbi
TEXT BY: Fortunato Turrini - All right reserved • PHOTOGRAPHY BY: G. Bernardi,A. Dalpez,V. Mariotti, Zotta, De Polo, Risser,
Andergassen, Fraschetti, Simonini,A.P.T. Val di Sole archives
PRINTED BY: Esperia srl - First Edition 2000 - Updated reprint 2005
31
visit...
GUIDED VISITS MUST BE BOOKED.
TO BOOK OR TO GET MORE INFORMATION CALL 0463.469299,
Tuesday through Saturday from 9 AM to 1 PM and from 3 PM to 7 PM
VISITS ARE FOR PAYMENT
Each guided visit includes a delightful sample
of apple produce.
At Mondomelinda you may also buy apples,
local produce and nice gadgets.
T
ND
HE
,T
JOB
HE C
A
R TH
RE FO
E ENVIRO
N M E NT
E GROWERS
F APPL
O
T
R
MEN
DE
MIT
N
M
U
CO
ER THE
T
T D
AN
TO
BE
STA
MONDOMELINDA
...to unveil all the secrets of Italy’s best known apple.
THE COOPERATIVE
...to follow apple processing in all of its steps,
from the sophisticated selection process to the final packaging.
THE CROPPING FARM
...to meet one of Melinda’s apple growers and get to know
the secrets of his job.
THE TASTE LAB
ag. nitida immagine - cles
...a new experience to discover and discern the diverse
scents and flavours of apples and to develop a real taste
education.
MELAGIRO
... go for a ride amongst apple trees
and castles, take a Melinda
mountain bike.
Via della Cooperazione, 21
Segno di Taio (TN) - Val di Non
Numero Verde
Tel. +39 0463 469299
800 - 929272 Fax +39 0463 461305
www.melinda.it