portorož - visitslovenia.net

Transcription

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
PORTOROŽ
E S S E N T I A L Summer
C I TY G
UIDES
- Autumn
2009
Including
PIRAN, KOPER & IZOLA
Relax in style
Spoil yourself at one of the many
magnificent spas in Portorož
Tartinijev Trg
Picturesque Piran is home to
Slovenia’s finest square
Kino Otok
Izola’s open-air film festival returns
for its 5th instalment
N°1 - € 2.90
www.inyourpocket.com
“In Your Pocket: A cheeky, wellwritten series of guidebooks.”
The New York Times
Contents
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
Contents
Arriving
6
Getting around
7
Basics
9
Transport, language, customs
History
11
Portorož Culture & Events
12
Portorož Where to stay
14
Portorož Restaurants
20
Portorož Nightlife
23
Portorož What to see
24
Portorož Shopping
25
Piran
27
Where to stay
27
Where to eat
29
What to see
31
Shopping
32
The Obala in Portorož
Koper
33
Where to stay
35
Where to eat
36
Nightlife
36
What to see
38
Shopping
38
Izola
39
Where to stay
39
Where to eat
40
Nightlife
42
What to see
45
Maps & Index
Koper’s waterfront promenade
portoroz.inyourpocket.com
Daniel Lovšin
Portorož map
Koper map
Izola map
Country map
Street Register
Index
46
47
48
49
50
50
Summer - Autumn 2009
Foreword
foreword
With only 46 kilometres of Adriatic coast Slovenes have to
make the most of every centimetre. The result is a coastline
dotted with half a dozen or so notable towns, each with its
own unique character, strengths and weaknesses. The
poetically named Portorož, or Port of Roses, is home to
one of the largest modern marinas on the Adriatic and is
the undisputed king of Slovenia’s coastal tourism trade.
Although it lacks the Venetian old towns that can be
found else where along the coast, its numerous hotels,
restaurants, conference centres, spas and casinos make it a
popular destination for both foreigners and Slovenes, and an
excellent base for day trips and excursions farther afield.
Europe In Your Pocket
Located less than a kilometre
from the centre of town, the vast
modern marina in Portorož is the
gateway to the Mediterranean
not only for Slovenia but all of
Central Europe. With over one
thousand berths accommodating
boats up to 22 metres in length,
it is one of the largest marinas
in the entire Adriatic. Aside from
the standard dockside facilities
the marina essentially contains a miniature resort with
guest rooms, restaurants and cafés, as well as various
sports facilities. In May the marina hosts Internautica,
a large international boat show which attracts over
40,000 visitors each year.
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
Portorož In Your Pocket
Drenikova 33, 1000 Ljubljana
Slovenia
Tel. +386 30 316 604
[email protected]
ISSN 1855-7163
©IQBATOR d.o.o.
Printed by Schwarz d.o.o., Ljubljana
Maps Monolit d.o.o.
Press Box
“In Your Pocket: a cheeky, well-written series of
guidebooks.”
New York Times
Portorož has been a tourist destination as far back as the
13th century, when it developed a niche as a health resort,
and towards the end of the 19th century it became widely
known for the healing properties of its mud and salt water
baths. This reputation has persisted till today, with the city
currently home to no less than six different wellness spas
and resorts. Aside from spas, Portorož also plays host to
various national and international conferences, exhibitions
and trade fairs, which enables the city to maintain a bustling
vibrant air throughout the entire year.
Cover story
On inyourpocket.com
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Editorial
Editor Irena Jamnikar, Yuri Barron
Writers Craig Turp, Camille Acey, Alina
Stylianoum, Yuri Barron
Research Tanja Franko, Richard
Schofield, Irena Jamnikar, Polona Žerjal
Layout & Design Vaida Gudynaitė
Consulting Craig Turp
Photos Turistično združenje Portorož,
MOK, Yuri Barron, Jernej Filipčič
Cover photo Barcolana 2008, Miha
Crnič, slovensko-morje.net
Sales & Circulation
Director Niko Slavnic M.Sc.
[email protected]
Sales & Operations Management
Jernej Filipčič tel. + 386 31 331 131
Tjaša Zupanc tel. + 386 30 316 604
Barbara Žlender + 386 30 316 601
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arriving
Getting around
Arriving in Koper
Portorož
Arriving in Portorož
By car
Portorož is accessible from the direction of Ljubljana by
taking the A1 highway south to Koper. From Koper you will
transfer to the 111 and go southwest to Portorož.
Taxi
As for transpoprt back to Ljubljana, you will have the same
two options: bus or train. There are more busses per day
than trains, but the train is cheaper (€9.70 as opposed to
€10.40 on the bus) and as most locals appear to take the
bus (which can, depending on traffic, be a bit quicker) you
often have a compartment on the train to yourself. Our
recommendation is to take the train: it is a nicer experience.
By bus
From Trieste in Italy take the S15 south to Koper and follow the directions above.
By Train
The nearest train station is in Koper, which has up to five
trains a day to and from Ljubljana.
Sunset on the pier
Jernej Filipčič
Airport
Aerodrom Portoroz Sečovlje 19, tel. 5 617 51 40,
Avantcar d.o.o. - National Rent a car D-3, Obala 33,
tel. 080 21 14, [email protected], www.nationalcar-slovenia.com. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 08:00
- 14:00. Cars from €40 per day.
Europcar Slovenija D-3, Obala 43, tel. 031 382 053,
[email protected], www.europcar.si. QOpen
08:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Cars from
€50 per day.
By bus
From Ljubljana take the A1 motorway to Koper, and follow
the signs to Portorož which will take you along the coast
from Koper on Route 111. On the hill above Portorož turn
right on Koprska and follow the signs for about 4.5km to
Piran - the road changes names several times, but it’s a
relatively straightforward drive. Parking within Piran proper
is very restricted and expensive, but there is a large parking lot on the coast just outside of town where you can
park for €8 per day.
Bus schedule
Car rental
Arriving in Piran
By Car
[email protected].
Taxi Štefan Obala 122, tel. 51 303 100.
Taxi Denis Maglica Lucan 2, tel. 041 602 788,
[email protected].
Taxi Portorož Šolska 1, tel. 041 671 202.
[email protected], www.portoroz-airport.si.
There are numerous buses every day to Portorož from
Ljubljana’s main train station. The ride varies from 2 to
3 hours, and the bus drops you directly in the center of
town. While there is no actual station, you are dropped
across the street from the tourist information center (TIC),
and before you cross the street there is also a fairly large
supermarket for any last minute items.
Although the Byzantines only controlled Piran for a short
time over a thousand years ago, the regional bus operator
Veolia has apparently dedicated their timetables to the
notoriously complex empire. The arrival and departure
times are affixed with a dizzying array of letters and
symbols (up to seven characters long) denoting the days
and seasons that the listed time is actually in operation,
which inevitably leads to much double- and triple-checking
accompanied by understandable frustration. The good
news is that buses to Izola and Koper and onward to the
rest of Slovenia run frequently from the bus station south
of the port, and there is also a free shuttle bus between
Tartinijev Trg in Piran and Fornače in Portorož every 15
minutes between 5:45 and 23:06.
Sun Tours Portorž Obala 2, tel. 040 710 560, sun-
Unless you are driving, you will arrive in Koper by train or
by bus. Both the bus and train station are in the same
place, outside of the city centre a fair old walk from Old
Town. As railway stations go Koper’s is a pleasant enough
place, with amazingly clean toilets. There is an ATM, left
luggage lockers, and a booth selling local bus tickets. You
will need one of these (they cost €0.42) to use one of the
local buses to get into town: take bus No. 1 or No. 2 to
Pristaniska ulica. Buses depart every ten minutes or so
and the journey takes no more than five minutes. There
are also buses for Izola, Portoroz and Piran. The one-way
fare to Izola is €1.80. Pay the driver as you board.
KOPER - IZOLA - PORTOROŽ – PIRAN
Monday to Friday
05:00, 05:20, 05:40, 06:00, 06:20, 06:40, 07:00, 07:20,
07:35, 08:00, 08:30, 09:00, 09:30, 10:00, 10:15, 11:00,
11:30, 12:00, 12:20, 12:40, 13:20, 13:40, 14:10, 14:40,
15:10, 15:30, 16:10, 16:30, 17:10, 17:40, 18:30, 19:20,
20:00, 21:20, 22:20
Saturday-Sunday
05:00, 06:00, 07:00, 08:00, 09:15, 10:15, 11:00, 12:00,
13:00, 14:00,15:00,16:00, 17:00, 18:15, 19:15, 20:00,
21:00, 22:20
PIRAN - PORTOROŽ - IZOLA – KOPER
Monday-Friday
05:00, 05:20, 05:40, 06:00, 06:15, 06:30, 07:00, 07:15,
07:40, 08:00, 08:30, 09:00, 09:30, 10:00, 10:30, 11:00,
11:30, 12:00, 12:20, 12:40, 13:00, 13:20, 13:40, 14:00,
14:20, 14:50, 15:20, 15:40, 16:10, 16:40, 17:20, 18:10,
19:00, 20:00, 21:00, 21:30, 22:15
Saturday-Sunday
05:00, 06:00, 07:00, 08:00 ,09:00, 10:00, 11:00, 12:00,
13:00, 13:50, 15:00, 16:00, 17:00, 18:00, 19:00, 20:00,
21:00, 22:15
Giuseppe Tartini, the pride of Piran
Intercity trains & buses
TRAINS
Ljubljana - Koper
05:53, 06:33, 07:40 (Sat/Sun only), 09:32, 15:40,
18:10
Koper - Ljubljana
05:25, 10:03, 14:45, 16:40 (Sat/Sun only) 19:12,
20:10
BUSES
Ljulbjana - Koper - Izola - Portorož - Piran
06:00 (weekdays only), 06:30, 06:45, 08:00, 10:00,
13:45, 15:00
Piran - Portorož - Izola - Koper - Ljubljana
04:25 (weekdays only), 10:45, 11:45 (weekdays only),
12:40, 14:05, 16:30, 18:00, 18:50
Basics
Disabled travellers
Slovenia is increasingly well-adapted for the disabled.
Information is available from the NSIOS, tel. 430 36 46,
www.nsios.si.
Drinking
Alcohol is only sold to people over 18, and after 21:00 it
cannot be bought in stores.
Electricity
Like most European countries, Slovenia’s voltage is 220
volts AC, 50 Hz, and the country uses European two-pin
plugs.
Language
Slovenian is a Southern Slavic language with a 25-letter
alphabet. It is closely related to Serbian and Croatian, and
shares many words with other Slavic languages. Many
Slovenes also speak English, Italian, or German embarassingly
well.
Money
Slovenia temporarily swapped the Yugoslav dinar for the
tolar in 1991, and adopted the euro in January 2007. Euro
coins come in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50
cents, 1 and 2 euros, while banknotes come in 5, 10, 20,
50, 100, 200 and 500 euros. The Slovenian side of the
euro coins are decorated with among other things storks,
Mount Triglav, Lippizaner horses, a man sowing stars and a
Jože Plečnik design.
Politics
The Republic of Slovenia is a parliamentary democracy.
The president, Dr DaniloTürk, was elected in 2007. Borut
Pahor has been the prime minister since 2008. The next
parliamentary elections will be in September 2012. The
government consists of the PM and 15 ministers, of which
two are without portfolio.
A quiet day on the sea
Religion
Although Slovenians are traditionally Roman Catholic, the
most recent Eurobarometer Poll in 2005 found that only 37%
of the population believe in a god, with 16% atheists and the
rest of them believing in ‘something’.
Smoking
Cigarettes can’t be sold to people under 18. Slovenia recently
banned smoking from public indoor spaces except in special
smoking areas in offices, hotels and bars.
Tipping
It’s not traditional to tip in Slovenia, though a reward of
about 10% for good service in a restaurant or bar is always
appreciated.
Visas
Koper’s old town
Many foreigners simply need a passport or ID card to enter
Slovenia. Those requiring a visa will be able to travel freely
between the Schengen-agreement countries for a limited
amount of time, usually 90 days. Always check these details
with a Slovenian embassy or consulate. Further information
can be found at www.mzz.gov.si.
10
history
Basics
In 1879 a Piran doctor, Giovanni Lugnano, started to
treat rheumatic problems with fango (sea mud), seawater
baths and the drinking of salt water. The reputation of
the healing properties of the salt soon spread from the
surrounding towns to more distant areas of Austria-Hungary. The arrival of numerous guests after 1885 called for
the construction of new villas and boarding houses. This
was followed by the establishment of a spa company in
Piran, ‘Stabilimento balneare di Pirano’, which oversaw
the construction of a new hotel with 80 rooms, 120 beds,
a restaurant and a café, as well as a spa building with
30 bedrooms and its own baths, the predecessor of the
famous Palace Hotel.
Major Currency Cross Rates
Currency
U.S.
$
1. U.S. $
1. Euro €
1.35
1. U.K. £
1.49
1. Swiss Franc 0.89
Euro
€
0.73
1.10
0.66
U.K.
£
0.65
0.89
0.58
Swiss
Franc
1.09
1.49
1.65
-
Market values
The 20th of August 1910 saw the opening of one of
the most beautiful hotels on the Adriatic coast - the
Palace Hotel. This luxurious building had 175 rooms, a
magnificent dining room also used as a multi-purpose
hall, a spacious open terrace, a lavish reception room
with a large painting by Glauca Cambone as well as
rooms for reading and games. The hotel had facilities for mud baths and a seawater pool. The entire
spa complex was equipped with the most modern
Prices in Slovenia are still fairly competitive despite
increases over the last couple of years particularly in
the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday
products and prices.
Product
Price (€)
McDonald’s Big Mac
€2.40
Snickers
€0.59
0.5ltr vodka (shop)
€13.85
0.5ltr of local beer(shop)
€0.99
Loaf of white bread
€2.74
20 Marlboros
€2.80
Public transport ticket
€1.10
Roll of Kodak 200 speed film, 24 exposures
€4.09
Population
Slovenia 2,019,406 (2007)
Portorož 2,849
Ethnic composition
Slovenian 83%
Former Yugoslav minorities 5.3%
Hungarian, Albanian, Roma, Italian and others
2.8%
Official languages
Slovenian
Italian
Hungarian
Local time
Central European (GMT + 1hr)
Longest river
Sava (221km in Slovenia)
Piran’s Prvomajski Trg
Vinjeta - A (new) Ticket to ride
As of June 2008, Slovenia requires all motor vehicles travelling on Slovenian highways to
have a vinjeta (veen-yeh-tah)
sticker. This system exists in
lieu of tolls, and the vinjeta can
be easily obtained at nearly
all gas stations and kiosks. A
yearly/half-yearly/seven day sticker is €95/30/15 for
cars and €47.50/25/7.50 for motorcycles. For more info
check www.dars.si
Highest mountain
Triglav 2,864m.
Street smarts
Borders
Austria 318km
Italy 280km
Hungary 102km
Croatia 670km
Slovenians usually leave out the word for street in
conversation, so while your destination may officially
be called ‘Poljanska ulica’, you can survive by just saying
Poljanska
In 1913, Portorož was visited by 7000 guests, which
increased its international character and notoriety. However, the First and Second World Wars slowed down the
development of the town. Its revival came in 1954 when
the spa in the old Palace Hotel was renovated. In 1975 the
Palace Spa acquired the status of a natural health resort.
The new spa, Talasotherapy Portorož, was built ten years
later, comprising four hotels which have improved and
revived their services in the last couple of years.
Today, Portorož is a modern tourist resort with numerous
hotels, its own marina, airport, casino, convention and
wellness centres, excellent restaurants and many different
possibilities for excursions and activities. Every year, numerous events take place in Portorož, attracting Slovene
and foreign guests.
Language
Basic data
Area
20,273 square kilometres
therapeutic devices, and in front of the hotel there was
a new sandy beach with 200 cabins. The architectural
concept was designed by a renowned architect from
Trieste, Lodovico Braidotti. In 2008 the hotel was completely renovated, combining the famous old-fashioned
exterior and contemporary facilities.
Avtocesta (aw-toh-ses-tah) Highway
Cesta (tses-tah) Boulevard
Most (mohst) Bridge
Nabrežje (nah-breh-dgee-eh) Embankment
Trg (teh-rg) Square
Ulica (oo-leet-sah) Street
Special Pronunciations
c – as in pizza
e – as in egg
g – as in go
j – like y in yogurt
č – as in cello
š – as in ship
ž – as in pleasure
Basics
Do you speak English? – Govorite angleško (Goh-voh- REEtay Ahn-GLESH-ko) ?
I d on’ t u n d erstan d – N e ra zu m em (N u h ra -ZOO mehm)
Where is the toilet? WC? - Kje je stranišče (Key-yay strahnEESH-chay) ? WC (Vay-tsay)?
Good Morning – Dobro Jutro (DOH-broh YOO- troh)
Good Day – Dober Dan (DOH-behr Dahn)
Good Night – Lahko noč (Lah-koh noh-ch)
Yes – Ja (Yah)
No – Ne (Nay)
Hello – Živjo (Jeeve-yoh)
Excuse me/Sorry – Oprostite (Oh-PROS-tee-tay)
Pardon me (asking for help) – Prosim (pro-SEEM)
My name is....- Jaz sem (Yahz sem) ...
I am from... – Jaz sem iz (Yahz sem iz)...
Days
Monday – Ponedeljek (POH-nuh-dehl-yek)
Tuesday – Torek (TOR-ek)
Wednesday – Sreda (Sray-dah)
Thursday – Četrtek (chuh-TUR-tuck)
Friday – Petek (peh-tuck)
Saturday- Sobota (soh-BOH-tah)
Sunday- Nedelja (nuh-DEHL-yah)
Questions
Who? – Kdo?(K-doh)
What? – Kaj?(Ky)
Where? –Kje ? (Key-yay)
When? – Kdaj (K-dy)
How much does it cost? Koliko stane (KOH-LEE-KOH
STAH-NEH)?
Signs
Open - Odprto (Ohd-PURT-oh)
Closed - Zaprto (Zah- PURT-oh)
Entrance – Vhod (oo-hod)
Exit- Izhod (eez-hod)
Push – Rini (ree-nee)
Pull – Vleci (oo-LETS-ee)
Travelling
Bus – Avtobus (OW-toh-booze)
Train – Vlak (v-LOCK)
I am looking for.... – Iščem (EESH-chem) ...
One ticket, please – Eno vstopnico, prosim (Eh-noh oo-stopNEETZ-oh pro- SEEM)
Times
Now – zdaj (z-day)
Later – kasneje (kaz-NAY-yeh)
Today – danes (dahn-es)
Tomorrow – jutri (yoo-tree)
Yesterday – včeraj (oo-cheh-ray)
In the morning- zjutraj (z-YOO-try)
In the afternoon- popoldne (poh-POLD-neh)
In the evening- zvečer (z-veh-chehr)
At night – ponoči (poh-NOH-chee)
Restaurant Talk
Menu, please – Meni, prosim (MEH-ni pro-SEEM)
Bill, please – Račun, prosim (Rah-CHOON pro- SEEM)
Do you have vegetarian food? – Imate vegetarijansko hrano
(EE-mah-tay veh-geh-tay-ree-ahn-sko h-rah-noh)?
Bar Talk
One coffee, please – Eno kavo prosim (EH-noh KAH-voh
pro-SEEM)
One beer, please – (Name of beer), prosim (pro-SEEM)
Cheers! – Na zdravje (Nah zuh-DRAW-wee-ay)!
You have beautiful eyes – Imate lepe oči (EE-mah-tay lehpeh oh-chee)
Can I have your number? Lahko dobim tvojo telefonsko
številko? (Law-koh doh-BEEM t-voy-yo teh-leh-FOHN-sko
shteh-VEEL-koh)?
11
12
culture & Events
August
August
XXXI. MUSICAL EVENINGS IN PIRAN – every Friday,
Cloister of St. Francis Minorite Monastery in Piran
8 August at 21:00
CONCERT BY EUROPEAN MEDICAL STUDENTS CHOIR
AND ORCHESTRA– St. George Cathedral
14 August
PROCESION WITH TORCHES FROM PIRAN TO STRUNJAN
14 August
FESTIVAL “WITH STARS BENEATH THE STARS”
Golden Drum
27 June
MELODIJE MORJA IN SONCA 2009 – MUSIC FESTIVAL
– Auditorium Portorož
27 June
FAIR OF ANTIQUITIES, HOME CRAFTS AND NATURE’S
GIFTS in Piran
JULY
2–6 July
MIFF 2009 - MEDITERRANEAN INTERNATIONAL
FOLKLORE FESTIVAL – Portorož
2 July at 21:00
CONCERT BY STOCKHOLM CHOIR– St. George
Cathedral
3 July at 21:00
CONCERT BY CHOIR DURI – EMBRACING SUMMER
NIGHTS - Pastoral and cultural centre “Georgios”
22 August
GIFTS in Piran
24–30 August
3. FEAST OF ST. GEORGE IN SEČA – traditional feast
celebrating the end salt-growing season
28 August-12 September
TARTINI FESTIVAL – international music festival in
Piran, Portorož, Izola and Koper
29 August – 5 September
EX-TEMPORE PIRAN
29–30 August
REGATTA MONFALCONE – PORTOROŽ – MONFALCONE
September
18 – 20 September
REGATTA LIGNANO-PORTOROŽ-LIGNANO
September
BAPTISM OF NEPTUNE
10 July
XXXI. MUSICAL EVENINGS IN PIRAN – 1ST concert,
Cloister of St. Francis Minorite Monastery in Piran
19 September
BAKLADA 2009 – march with torches along the narrowgauge railway between Izola and Portorož.
20 - 26 July
WO M E N W TA TO U R N A M E N T “ B A N K A KO P E R
SLOVENIAN OPEN” – Portorož
24 – 26 September
DAYS OF EUROPEAN CULTURAL HERITAGE PIRAN
25 July
GIFTS in Piran
July
WO M E N W TA TO U R N A M E N T “ B A N K A KO P E R
SLOVENIAN OPEN” - Portorož
Every Sunday July, August
PUF 2009 – STREET PUPPET FESTIVAL – Piran
July, August
P O PU L AR M U SIC CON CE R TS IN AU DITORI U M
PORTOROŽ
July, August
POPULAR MUSIC CONCERTS AT PUNTA PIRAN
July, August
FILM NIGHTS AT RECTORY`S GARDEN IN PIRAN
26 September
WOLRD TOURISM DAY IN PORTOROŽ
September
SLOVENIAN FILM FESTIVAL
October
4 – 9 October
GOLDEN DRUM – advertising festival
17 October
FINAL REGATTA – The Gulf of Piran
November
7 – 11 November
ST. MARTIN`S FEAST IN LUCIJA
November
TRADITIONAL KAKI FESTIVAL - Strunjan
14
Portorož Where to stay
The city’s waterfront is virtually end to end hotels so
finding a room shouldn’t be a problem, however, aside
from a couple of smaller independently-owned places
and some private apartments don’t expect to pay less
than €100 per night for anything near the centre. If
you don’t need to be right in the middle of the action,
finding a place in the surrounding hills can save you a
ton of money - even when factoring in a couple return
taxi trips per day.
Symbol key
P Air conditioning
A Credit cards accepted
O Casino
H Conference facilities
T Child friendly
U Facilities for the disabled
F Fitness centre
L Guarded parking
R Internet
G Non-smoking rooms
K Restaurant
J Old town location
D Sauna
C Swimming pool
6 Animal friendly
W Wi-Fi
Cream of the Crop
Grand Hotel Bernardin A-3, Obala 2, tel. 695 10
00/695 51 04, fax 674 64 10, booking@h-bernardin.
si, www.h-bernardin.si. A sprawling and top gradehotel on
the furthest edge of Obala, from the regular bustle as well as
thetwo free mobile phone charging stands in the lobby it is
clear that it is popular amongst the business travelling set,
but it also draws well on the pleasure seekers. It starts on
the top floor and the rooms are all down from the lobby getting you closer and closer to the sparkling seaside. The hotel
also features a quality and remarkably reasonably-priced
restaurant as well as an upstairs cafe with anairy terrace.
Q 241 rooms (singles €190, doubles €216-250, suites
€380-550). POTHARUIFLGKDXCW
hhhhh
Grand Hotel Metropol E-4, Obala 77, tel. 690 10
00, fax 690 19 00, [email protected], www.
metropolgroup.si. High up on a hill overlooking the
beach area, Metropol is one of the major sprawling hotel
complexes along the seaside strip. The complex also features a popular casino, an adult nightclub, and full (though
slightly dated ) spa facilities. The hotel has the distinction
of having a direct bridge to the beach from a passageway
through the lobby, and from there you can also access
their private swimming pool and lounge area on the beach
front. Q 103 rooms (singles €185, doubles €250-270,
suites €420-550). POTHARFGKDCW
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Grand Hotel Portorož D-3, Obala 43, tel. 692 90
03/696 90 01, fax 696 10 25, [email protected],
www.lifeclass.net. Second in rank to its neighbour Kempinski Palace, this grand hotel appears like a huge complex
connected directly with the Galeria San Marco shopping
centre and the dynamic Café Central, perfect for a morning
caffeine fix. Action surrounds this hotel day and night, with
bars and restaurants directly in front of the hotel along the
beach. Q 185 rooms,13 suites (singles €175-230 doubles
€230-310). POTHAR6ULGKDXCW
hhhhh
Hotel Listings Policy
Hotels are listed strictly by price band, and then by alphabetical order within that band. The price band refers
to the rack rate for a double room.
Kempinski Palace Portorož D-3, Obala 45, tel. 692
70 00/692 79 50, reservations.portoroz@kempinski.
com, www.kempinski-portoroz.com. This grandest of
residences dominates Obala Street and the entire Piran Bay
with its majestic architecture and refined gardens. All the
comforts of a 5 star hotel can be found at the Palace, and at
a reasonable price for the quality. When you want to escape
for a moment of peace, the tranquil gardens at the rear of the
hotel offer are a shady retreat rom the busy Obala entrance. Q 164 rooms, 17 suites (singles €235-310, doubles €285360, suites €900-2150). PTJHAUILEB�
KXCW hhhhh
Upmarket
Apollo D-3, Obala 43, tel./fax 692 90 03, tel. 692 90 01,
[email protected], www.lifeclass.net. Apollo enjoys
the benefits of centrality with in a more sheltered and private
setting, the entrance being just off the main promenade
street. This hotel is favourable for those who prefer quieter
surroundings. It is adequately connected with a passageway
to the Terme & Wellness Palace, (known as one of the best
this side of Trieste!) and set among evergreen pine trees
and gardens that provide shade, freshness and relaxation.
Q 87 rooms (doubles €120-250). PTJARLGB�
KDXCW hhhh
Histrion A-3, Obala 2, tel. 695 5104/695 5106, fax
674 6410, [email protected], www.h-bernardin.
si/. Situated at the peak of the peninsula, at the quieter
end of Obala street, this resort has a mini town ofits own,
built around the beautiful ruin of St. Bernardin Monastery
from the 15th century. The hotel offers days of relaxation
at the Health and Wellness Centre,sunbathing and swimming at their private lagoon water park and beach, or you
could try your luck at the magnificent Casino Histrion. You
won’t even have to leave the premises at night, as Histrion
run their own evening entertainment programme.Indeed, it
seems that much of the city stops by for the hot and heavy
salsa partyon Friday nights, hosted at the casino. Q 276
rooms (singles €140-150, doubles €160-170, suites €260390). POTHAUIFLEGBKDXCSW
hhhh
Marita E-4, Obala 89, tel. 617 22 00, fax 617 22
17, [email protected], www.hotel-marita.si. From
the outside, Marita’s glassy and bland-coloured appearance does not do her much justice. However, the greenery
of her gardens and large swimming pools are a delight.
Marita is situated just on the edge of town and very close
to Lucija (Portoroz’s neighbouring town), which provides
a calmer alternative to the crowded restaurants and
beaches along Obala. Q 83 rooms (singles €150, doubles
€190, suite €200-250). PTAULGBKXCW
hhhh
16
portorož Where to stay
Marko D-3, Obala 28, tel. 617 40 00, fax 617 40 11,
[email protected], www.hotel-marko.com. The only
non-corporate hotel on thestrip, this small but high-quality hotel boasts beautiful rooms which all have balconies
attached, some facing toward the beach, others facing to
the back for more quiet. It also has a beautiful front garden
for relaxing. As this small unique hotel only has 48 rooms,
they fill up fast during the high season with many returning
visitors. Q 48 rooms (doubles €100-120, suites €130-160).
PTHAR6UGKXW hhhh
Mirna D-3, Obala 43, tel. 692 40 20/696 90 01, fax 692
90 03, [email protected], www.lifeclass.net. Perched
higher up the slope with rooms providing breathtaking views
of the bay and town that lie beneath. Probably not suited for
the elderly or parents with young kids, as the slope provides
a backbreaking walk to and from Obala, the beaches and the
hotel. However, the swimming pool provides a pleasant and
peaceful alternative from bathing in the sea, and a passageway satisfactorily joins to the Terme & Wellness Palace. Q 77
double rooms, 4 suites (singles €120-175, doubles €180-250).
PTJAR6FLGBKDXCW hhhh
Neptun D-3, Obala 43, tel. 692 90 20/692 90 01, fax
692 90 03, [email protected], www.lifeclass.net. An
ideal family hotel, Neptun provides the best of both worlds: you
can opt for a room facing the bustling Obala promenade and
beaches or stay in a room that provides shade and tranquillity
under the surrounding majestic trees. Connected by an indoor
passageway with its siblings Apollo and Mirna and the Terme
& Wellness Palace you are sure to enjoy the best the hotel has
to offer its guests. Q 89 rooms (singles €150-185, doubles
€190-250). PTAR6LGKXW hhhh
Riviera D-3, Obala 33, tel. 692 90 03/696 90 01, fax
692 60 40, [email protected], www.lifeclass.net.
Another impressive hotel along the Obala promenade and
with its entrance bustling with shoppers, the Hotel Riviera
is the perfect place to enjoy a morning coffee at the neighbouring Café Mignon and gaze at Obala’s pace of life pass
by. The speciality of the hotel is the large swimming pool
that is situated directly above the café on a huge terrace
facing out towards the crystalline sea. Riviera also hosts
its own “Casino Riviera” and “Mystica”, a cocktail bar and
terrace which can become very lively during late summer
nights. Q 176 rooms( singles €150-185, doubles €190-250).
PTARULGBKDXCW hhhh
Roža E-4, Obala 77, tel. 690 20 00/690 29 00, fax 690
78 77, [email protected], www.hotel-roza.com.
Towards the end of Obala, away from the hustle and bustle of
the town, Hotel Roza sits beside the Grand Metropol Resort
and on a hill encircled by cypresses and olive grooves. If you
stay here, don’t waste any time exploring a variety of wellness
treatments, the Portoroz Casino and other activities on location. The beaches and shopping district is just a short walk
away. Q 111 rooms (singles €110-140, doubles €150-180).
POTHARULGX hhhh
Slovenija D-3, Obala 33, tel. 692 50 20/696 90 01, fax
692 90 01, [email protected], www.lifeclass.net.
Probably the most centrally located Obala hotel, with balconies
that soak up the entire view of the Piran bay. Popular among
business associates because of its centrality and its Congress
Centre featuring seven large halls equipped with the latest
technology. A busy day of meetings can be finished off with a
“Wai Thai” massage at the natural face and body care centre
or with a swim at its heated seawater swimming pool. Q
144 rooms, 16 suite ( singles €160-185, doubles €190-250).
PTJHAR6ULGBKDXCW hhhh
Mid-Range
Barbara E-4, Obala 77, tel. 690 70 00, sales@metropol-
group.si, www.metropolgroup.si. Sitting higher up on the
hill and behind sibling Hotel Lucija, the walk up to the entrance
is dominated once again by ever-greenfoliage, ensuring that
your stay will be satisfied with undisturbed peace and restin
nature’s embrace. Rooms are fresh, airy and well shaded
by the trees in the gardens. Definitely, the prettiest hotel
on the Metropol Resort. Q 65 rooms (doubles €130-170).
PALGBKXW hhh
Lucija E-4, Obala 77, tel. 690 70 00, sales@metropol-
group.si, w w w.metropolgroup.si. Situated within a
wonderful evergreen park dotted with artistic statues and
located in the immediate vicinity of the Obala promenade.
This wide spread hotel also benefits from a large swimming
pool, which is shaded bycypress and palm trees. Although,
the architecture itself seems a bit on the old-fashioned
side (as with the rest of the Metropol resort) the rooms do
favour amore modern design. Q 182 rooms (single €105,
doubles €140, suite €170). PTAULGBKXCW
hhh
Vile Park Bernardin A-3, Obala 2, tel. 695 51 04/695
51 06, fax 674 64 10, [email protected], www.
h-bernardin.si/en/. Slightly away from the town centre,
these luxurious villas within the Hotel Bernardin complex
are well connected to the Obala promenade. Nestled by the
beautiful Mediterranean lagoon water park and adorned
with lush vegetation, these quiet and self-contained villas
are for those who like everything to be at their doorstep.
Seven restaurants on the complex offer different cuisines and varied atmosphere. Q 217 rooms €110-145.
POTHA6UFLEGBKDXCSW
hhh
Villa Marina Seča 202, tel. 67 40 360, fax 67 40 361,
[email protected], www.istriana.si/villamarina.
Just opened in June 2009 this four-star villa offers eight
comfortable, if not overwhelmingly luxurious, four-star suites
on two floors that also include an indoor swimming pool,
sauna and pleasant garden area. Unsurprisingly located
in the vicinity of the modern marina, the relaxing atmosphere is in stark contrast to the lively Obala strip but still
within walking distance of its restaurants, bars and beaches
- although during the scorching summer months it may
be wise to opt for short taxi ride. Q 8 suites (€159-239).
THARFLGBDC hhhh
Budget
Garni Maki F-4, Pot K Izviru 21, Lucija, tel./fax 677
19 28, tel. 040 46 30 10, [email protected], www.
garni-maki.com. Climb to the top of the windy road and
you’ll certainly be glad you did. While the accomodations
are totally basic, the terraces which open out to a gorgeous
view of the red tiled roofs and seaside below make it all
worthwhile. The continental breakfast on the terrace gives
a great start to the morning and the family who recently took
over this hotel give the place a comfortable homey feeling.
Q 10 rooms (singles €30-35). THARILGXW
hhh
18
Garni Strasek E-3, Sencna pot 4a, tel. 774 6417/674
8418, [email protected], www.garnistrasek-portoroz.si. Situated up a hill that offers great views of the town
and the bay of Piran, this garni is close to the marina and
bar district at the end of the Obala promenade. A cheaper
alternative for a stay in Portoroz and in a peaceful residential
district. Q singles €56-61, doubles €72-82, triples €103113). P6NGBX hhh
Penzion Forma Viva Seča 159, tel. 40 369 003, fax
677 04 66, [email protected], www.formaviva-portoroz.si. If you would prefer to avoid the resort
town atmosphere of the city’s crowded beachside area, but
still want easy access to its restaurants and nightlife, this
23 room guest house in the leafy hills just south of Marina
Portorož is a great option. With views towards the strangely
exotic-looking Sečovlje salt pans, its pink-walled palm-lined
courtyard has a distinctly tropical feel to it. The hotel is both
pet and family-friendly, and the staff can arrange boat trips
and recommend pleasant walks through the surrounding
countryside Q €35-85. T6LG hh
Villa Saline Seča 119, tel. 677 94 00/41 64 21 40,
[email protected], www.villasaline.com. This large
family-run villa is located in Seča on the hills overlooking
the famous salt pans, a short drive south of Portorož. Their
four fully-equipped apartments can fit between two and six
guests, and are a great value with prices as low as €13 per
person. The amiable hosts are also more than happy to help
arrange excursions and even offer guided boat tours of the
salt canals and Istrian coast. Q 4 apartments (€36-109).
PTA6LB hhh
Apartment rental
Apartments Ananina E-3, Bazoviska 23, tel. 041 75
75 50, fax 677 3692, [email protected], www.ananina.
com. Located just above the Grand Hotel Metropol, these
apartments are a cheaper alternative and close to the
vibrant beaches and nightlife along Obala. It’s a great place
for families who can make use of the children’s playground
and barbeque grill in the gardens. All balconies have a sea
view. Q €43-199. PNGBX hhh
Apartments Diana Belac B-2, Lepa 24, tel./fax
674 51 18, [email protected], users.volja.net/belacdinko/. Another option for a cheaper place to reside,
these two apartments (for a maximum of 4 people) offer
spacious, clean rooms and a balcony where you can enjoy
dinner and a glass of wine while gazing at the never-ending
blue horizon. The centre is a good 2-3 kilometres walk away
and the closest beach is 300metres away, right by the Hotel
Bernardin Complex. Q €76 apt for 4 people. P6NGB
hh
Villa Lili E-3, Letoviška pot 29, tel. 674 4042/031 536
769, [email protected], www.vilalili.com. Situated
in the bustling residential centre of Portoroz within walking
distance of restaurants, cafes, clubs and casinos you won’t
be short of entertainment here, and the price is certainly
right for an apartment starting at €60! It just might be a bit
of a trek back up the hill after a long day at the beach or a
night out in town. Ask the owner about walking trails and
cycle tours around the villa’s natural complex. Q €60-120.
P6NGBXW hhhh
19
20
portorož Restaurants
A plethora of culinary delights is not one of the city’s main
selling points, and quite frankly, with all the other reasons
to come here it doesn’t have to be. That being said, the selection should be good enough to keep things interesting,
and there are quite a few upmarket places catering to the
tourist crowds - mostly offering Mediterranean or Italian
menus that tend to be at least marginally overpriced.
Symbol key
P Air conditioning
E Live music
S Take away
T Child friendly
R Internet
L Guarded parking
O Casino
J Old Town location
6 Animal friendly
W Wi-Fi
B Outside seating
V Home delivery
Lunch
News Café B-3, Obala 4f, tel. 674 10 04, www.news-
cafe.si. Dark and breezy courtesy of its many ceiling fans,
this wonderful nautical and antique-feeling bar evokes the
feeling of a place where an old-time detective might grab
a drink and indeed you can sit here and sip on something
cool while you also try to figure things out. It features two
terraces, a full bar, a number of specialty drinks as well as
pizzas, burgers, and even a kids menu. While it can be tough
to locate, as its tucked behind the sprawling Bernardin
complex, it definitely merits a little extra sleuthing. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. (€1.10-19.80).
PTJA6UGBKSW
Mediterranean
Figarola & Gregory D-3, Obala 14a, tel. 674 22 00.
Clean and newly remodeled this is actually two restaurants
in one but you won’t find any physical dividing line. Gregory
provides the pasta, meat, and seafood dishes; Figarola, of
course, the pizzas, and a friendly and attentive staff brings
it all to your table inside or out on the terrace.
Majestic E-3, Obala 18a, tel. 41 885 198. Part of
the Paco family of restaurants, this is actually a two-part
establishment directly on the beach with an excellent cake
shop/cafe on one side and a seafood restaurant on the
other. Here you can tuck into all the grilled and greasy fish
dishes you’d like and then move over to the terrace to top
the meal off with some of the cake shop’s rich ice cream.
QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. In October: 12:00-24:00 (€10-30).
PTA6UEGBXS
Ondina E-3, Obala 16, tel. 674 20 72, www.ondina.si.
This restaurant serves a wide range of typical seafood options in its Italian trattoria-style environment, but there are
also meat and pasta options if you’re not in the mood for fish.
While it makes great aims at being classy the constant flow
of traffic outside their doors works against that effort; head
to the side room for a bit more intimacy. Not very vegetarian
friendly. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. (€9-20).
TA6UEGBXS
San Lorenzo E-4, Obala 77, tel. 690 70 00, sales@
Dining on the promenade in Portorož
Fast Food
Doner Kebab F-4, Obala 114, tel. 677 09 63. Just hid-
den behind the Blue Bar, this truly is the best place to stop
by if you’re feeling peckish after a night out. The kebabs are
filling, stuffed with delicious meat and salad for just €3.50. The
staff are indeed a chatty bunch. Excellent for budget travellers seekin go ut a cheap meal in comparison to more pricey
restaurants in the area. QOpen till late. €2-5. NGKS
Fish
Ribja Kantina E-4, Obala 26, tel. 677 91 04. Fish and
seafood lovers won’t need an address to find this place, you
will smell it immediately strolling along the Obala promenade
(and even at its second location opposite Alaya cocktail bar)
and it will lead you straight inside to a table and an irresistible
menu. The fish is of the freshest kind and the atmosphere of
the restaurant is remarkably full of laughter. The grilled squid
are a delight, especially with a jug of local Slovenian wine.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (€7-26). PTA6LGBXS
metropolgroup.si, www.metropolgroup.si. This fashionable restaurant is situated within the Grand Hotel Metropol
itself and offers a vast international and Mediterranean menu
complete with a selective wine list. It’s a perfect location for
business events,celebrations and wedding banquets. Q
PAULGKX
Stara Oljka E-3, Obala 20, tel. 674 85 55, www.
staraoljka.si. While other restaurants simply add regional
food to their menus, comfortable and inviting Stara Oljka
makes regional Istrian cuisine their focus; this means fish,
crabs, lobsters,and almost anything else that calls the sea
their home. However they are also keen to cater to vegetarians and those who pass on seafood, as they enjoy the rustic
indoor surroundings or airy backyard patio. QOpen 11:00
- 24:00. (€5,80-30). PTA6IGBXSW
22
Portorož Nightlife
portorož Restaurants
Staro Sidro E-3, Obala 55, tel./fax 674 50 74, star-
[email protected]. Walking up the steps of the old and abandoned Villa San Marco and heading in the direction of Staro
Sidro, can feel like going into a time warp. The beautiful but
decaying old restaurant seems to be frozen in another, simple
time. Some of the staff seem to be frozen there right along
with it, but it nonetheles offers a charming get away from the
MTV beach madness. Its standard fare of sea food and meat
dishes are reasonably priced and offered with a lengthy list
of local wines. If you’re looking for an experience of classic
old Portorož, this is your destination. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.
(€7-21). PTA6GBXS
Tomi E-3, Letoviška 1, tel. 674 02 22, fax 674 72 85,
[email protected], www.tomi-sp.si. Araditional classic
seafood restaurant with a wood paneled barand mid-range
prices. Tomi is run by a family and also caters to families and
largegroups with big plates to be shared. There are a few
vegetarian and meat optionshere as well, but this restaurant
really exists to let the seafood shine. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.
(€6-12). TA6ILBXSW
Mexican
Papa Chico E-4, Obala 26, tel. 677 93 10, www.robot.
si/Papa/Index.htm. Mexico is far away from Slovenia but
this restaurant does its best to bring it a little closer. The
entrance features a road sign pointing “gringos”into the
place and a sleeping Mexican “statue” meets you at the
door.Here you can slurp down a fantastic maragarita and
taste a great Slovenian attempt at the cuisine. The back
of the menu tells the story of Papa Chico, a parrot breeding
eccentric, and also advises you to relax and accept the
fact that service will be - in true Mexican fashion - quite
slow. If you’ve got the time, you’d do well to heed this word.
QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. Drinks: 09:00-02:00 In October:
Daily: 10:00-24:00, drinks: 10:00-02:00 (€5,90-16,30).
PTA6ULEGBXSW
Enjoy a coffee African style
Coffee & Cakes
Cacao D-3, Obala 14, www.cacao.si. A stylish and
modern new coffee and cake place that also functions as
a bar. Its done in the generic nouveau Euro style that you
either love or hate, and the restaurant is part of what appears to be a growing chain. The bored looking staff are,
nonetheless, attentive and fast. The coffee, cakes, and
other sweets are good but skip the flavorless cocktails.
QOpen 08:00 - 03:00. PTAR6UGBX
Café Central D-3, Obala 43, tel. 696 10 20, www.
lifeclass.net. This classy café in the Life Class center
may well be the trendiest meeting place on the strip. The
outside terrace area opens into an expansive atrium
with more than ample seating for you and your group.Tell
everyone to meet you back here for coffee. QOpen 07:00
- 24:00. PTA6ULEGBXS
Mignon D-3, Obala 33, tel. 674 90 40. This place is
rumored to have the best ice cream in the area and while
we haven’t conducted a taste test through the entire town
we certainly can attest to it being quite good. In addition
to delicious home made ice cream they also have top
quality cakes and a staff that’s quick and obliging when
you, undoubtedly ask for one more. QOpen 08:00
- 24:00. PT6UGBXS
Pizza & Pasta
Paco Pizzeria D-3, Obala 14 b, tel. 674 10 20. A grill,
pizzeria and trattoria found along the Obala promenade with
a large terrace with tables shaded from the sun by large
thatched umbrellas. The beach comes up directly to the
restaurant’s terrace where you can eat and watch the sparkling panorama. The menu boasts a fine selection of pizzas,
grilled specialities and seafood. A pleasant dining experience
during lunch time or the early evening. QOpen 11:00 - 23:30.
(€9-30). TA6UGBKXS
Rustika E-4, Obala 26, tel. 677 13 11, [email protected].
The terrace of this restaurant curiously overlooks a concrete
basketball court but if you can overlook this fact you’ll find
an assortment of pastas as well as many vegetarian and
vegetable offerings, a full list of local wines, and one daily
sweet if you’re too full to walk over to a better cake shop.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. In October: 12:00-23:00 (€3,50-13).
PTA6ULGBXSW
Santa Lucia F-4, Liminjanska 78, Lucija, tel. 677
18 94, fax 677 40 40, [email protected]. A bog
standard family pizza and pasta place serves to a clientele of mainly locals and marina workers. It is rather
difficult to locate and certainly doesn’t merit a special
visit from the center, but if you are headed back from
S eča an d n e e d s om e wh ere b u d ge t-fri en dl y an d
tast y, this will cer tainl y do. Q Open 11:00 - 23:00.
From September i t’s closed on Tuesday. (€4,40-11).
PTAR6LGBXS
Not many people come to Portorož with the intention of
going to bed early, and the city obligingly offers plenty of
places to drink, dance or just chill out till the early morning
hours. There are a number of great beach clubs with live
music, trendy lounges, waterfront cafés and even a couple
of grungy pubs if you’re in the mood to exprience some
less refined local flavour.
Symbol key
Casinos
Adonis E-3, Postajališka 2. If you’ve been kicked out
of every other casino on the strip and still haven’t learned
your lesson then this is the place for you. Up behind the
supermarket this all-electronic gambling house is open 24
hours for all your needs, and it’s located conveniently steps
away from the bus station, should you decide its time for
you to get out of town. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Open 24hrs.
PAULGX
Grand Casino Portoroz E-4, Obala 75a, tel. 676
P Air conditioning
E Live music
S Take away
T Child friendly
R Internet
L Guarded parking
O Casino
J Old Town location
6 Animal friendly
W Wi-Fi
0450/676 0373, fax 676 0485, marketing.portoroz@
casino.si, www.casino-portoroz.si. Part of the Metropol
resort and adjoined to the Grand Hotel Metropol, the Grand
Casino fills up during the evenings with elite holidaymakers
and business men and women. Gamble your luck on the
roulette table with your friends or privately enjoy one of the
poker or slot machines. POHAULG
B Outside seating
V Home delivery
Riviera D-3, Obala 33, tel. 674 82 54/674 82 53,
Bars
Kanela Bar D-3, Obala 14, tel. 674 61 81. A fabulous
rock n’ roll hangout during the summer time, day and night.
The bar is actually so small you can barely fit more than 10
people inside at any given moment, but most prefer the
pleasure ofthe beach directly in front of the amongst the
tall palm trees where the music is still heard loud and clear.
Live rock concerts are frequent and the atmosphere surely
heats up in the late hours with plenty of singing and dancing: a beach party in the making! QOpen 09:00 - 03:00.
6UEGBX
Latino Bar F-4, Obala 114. A dark, rusty-coloured bar, and
not really latino as its name suggests. The seating indoor
and out on the terrace is exceptionally comfortable and you
might find yourself there drinking with your friends for hours.
A social joint, popular with the young crowd and chill out
music on offer should be on your evening programme. Order
yourself a Captain Morgan in the evenings and the next day
come back for breakfast: the bruschettas are mouth-watering. Q PNGBKX
Lido D-3, Obala 14a. Named after an Italian strip of seaside, Lido lists a number of snacks and drinks including a
few cocktails with x-rated titles. The place is adjacent and
shares ownership with the Tivoli Nightclub and caters to the
same sort of adolescent party crowd, though it stays rather
calm during the day. QOpen 07:00 - 03:00, Sat, Sun 08:00
- 03:00. P6UGBXW
Planet Pub Heineken D-3, Obala 14a. This bar, which
does not appear to actually be affiliated with the Heineken
company, is host to a full barof drinks as well as electronic slot
machines. However, with no real identiy of its own, it seems
that its real purpose might be just to handle overflow from
its sister establishment, Club Tivoli. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00.
PA6GBXW
Playa C-3, Fizine, www.playa.si. }Little more than a
tiny cabana with a bar on one edge of the beach, this
place still manages to pack in a full terrace of drinkers as
it is the onlybar in the immediate area. It offers a standard
mix of alcoholic drinks anda few panini sandwiches for
famished sun bathers who can’t be bothered to pack it
in and head for something better. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00.
6EBX
[email protected], www.casino-riviera.si. A clean
and well air-conditioned casino with a friendly staff,it is a
prime place to fritter away your hard-earned money or use
up the last few Euros before you head home. Non-alcoholic
drinks as well as wine and beer are free, but some evenings
free cocktails are also on offer. The casino plays occasional
host to late night entertainment, but call ahead to find out
whether and what. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Admission free.
PALEGBX
Clubs
Paprika E-4, Obala 20a, tel. 651 41 02, info@paprika.
si, www.paprika.si. }A cafe during the day, the uber-modern
interior only hints at the debaucherous disco scene that the
place transforms into during the evening with themed nights
ranging from latin to house music. The nights are replete
with scantily clad go-godancers and a rotating roster of local
and travelling DJs. QOpen 08:00 - 04:00. Admission free.
PAULEGBXW
Tivoli D-3, Obala 14a. A dance club catering to the MTV
beach party set that you’ll find peppered amongst every other
speck of sand and surf. This black box space hosts a number
of top local and regional DJs, and those who really want to
party are wise not to show up until the wee hours when the
night really takes off. QOpen 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon,
Tue, Sun. €2-30. PUEGBX
Dancing
Alaya Cocktail Bar E-4, Obala 22, tel. 51 33 22
33/31 606 101, [email protected], www.alaya.si. A Caribbean, tropically decorated beach bar which serves up
cocktails of all colours of the rainbow. A worthy place for
a stop over during a night out with friends and on some
nights a beach party more than likely can fire up with occasional live music or a DJ. QOpen 09:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun.
TA6ULEBXSW
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23
24
Portorož what to see
PortoroŽ Shopping
Forgotten amongst all the four-star hotels, spas, restaurants and clubs are two of Slovenia’s must see tourist
attractions: the still-functioning salt pans in the Sečovlje
nature reserve and Forma Viva, a large sculpture park in
the hills south of the city. For boating enthusiasts Portorož
Marina might also be worth a visit, as it’s one of the largest modern marinas on the Adriatic.
The key word here is ‘functional’, which in the case of
Portorož means shops generally come in two varieties:
either swimwear and equipment for a day at the beach
or on the water, or upmarket fashion for a night out on
the town - with a souvenir shop or two thrown in for good
measure.
Art & Antiques
Tourist Information
Darila, souvenir shop E-3, Obala 55, tel. 674 67 72,
[email protected], www.atlasexpress.eu.
Unikat Art & hobby E-4, Obala 114, tel. 677 51 77/40
880 636. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00, 16:30-19:00, Sat 09:00
- 13:00. Closed Sun.
Tourist Information Portorož E-3, Obala 16, tel.
674 22 20, fax 674 82 61, [email protected], www.
portoroz.si. Q September to June from 09:00-17:00.
July-August from 09:00-19:00.
Beauty
Essential
Avditorij Portorož Cultural Center E-3, Senčna Pot
10, tel. 676 67 00, [email protected], www.avditorij.si.
The auditorium’s logo doesn’t seem to have been updated
since the disco era and it seems it’s conference center may
not have hadany major changes since then either, nonetheless it still plays host to a number of conferences and major
concerts throughout the year. Check their schedule to see
whether they’ve got something to your interest.
Forma Viva Seča, tel. 671 20 80, info@obalne-galerije.
si, www.obalne-galerije.si. Established in the early 1960s
by two Slovene artists, this sculpture park now serves as
home to a large park full of mostly abstract pieces by an international mix of artists. Head inside and along the beautiful
grassy area for a meditative walk, or perch yourself on one of
the many benches and watch the boats sail by. A very unique
treat! Q Open whole day. No admission fee.
Beautique Portorož D-3, Obala 14 b, tel. 671 67 04,
Sečovlje Saline Nature Park Tel. 672 13 30, kpss@
soline.si, www.kpss.si. Hundreds of years ago, salt wasa
commodity almost as valuable as gold and rulers fought to
acquire and controlits means of collection. Sečovlje was one
such rarified area and today it is preserved as a park with a
visitors’ center and museum. A fascinating piece of history,
the salt pans are not only an interesting public park, they are
also awell-preserved natural habitat for all kinds of wildlife.
The trek out to thepans is an interesting one but make sure
to pack your insect repellant, not all of the inhabitants here
are friendly. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Admission: €3 adults; €2
students, seniors; free for children under age six.
Church
Holy Church of our Lady of the Rosary D-3, Cvetna
Pot 4, tel. 674 67 00. Travellers who have grown accustomed to and bored with elaborate old European churches,
might enjoy this interesting little break from the ancient and
rarefied. Constructed in the 1980s, with wooden surroundings
and small stained glass, this interesting piece of architecture
seems to evoke a happy hippy feeling of Catholicism, with a
not-so-pained Jesus leaning down from the cross to speak
to a group of friends.The outside lobby offers free postcards
and reading material.
Tourist Agency
Istriana - Tourist Service Portorož (Andreja
Humar Fatorič s.p.) E-4, Podvozna 2, tel. 674 03
60/080 2800, fax 674 03 61, tourist-portoroz@siol.
net, www.istriana.si.This helpful tourist agency is a
one-stop shop for all your accommodation and recreation
needs. Located near the marina about halfway between
the main bus station to the south and the beach to the
north, they can book rooms and apartments that suit
most budgets at well over 100 different locations in and
around Portorož, and also arrange a variety of activities
and excursions throughout the region.Q November
- April: 09:00- 13:00, May, June, September, October:
09:00-15:00, 17:00 -19:00, July- August: 09:00-21:00
fax 671 67 08. A cosmetics shop found in a row of small
stores catering to women shoppers,the focus here is on
perfumes but you will also find nail polish, skin creams, and
everything else you might need for the bother some business of beautifying the body. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sun
09:00 - 13:00.
Fashion
Botique Napoleon D-3, Obala 43, tel. 692 22 00, www.
botique-napoleon.com. A luxury shopping experience in
the Gallerija San Marco/LifeClass shopping center. This tiny
women’s clothing shop features a wider ange of high end
Italian fashions. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Thu, Fri, Sat, Sun
09:00 - 20:30.
Max Mara Kempinski (Portorož) D-3, Obala 45, tel.
907 74 90/031 667 223, [email protected], www.morris.
si. Located in the luxurious Kempinski Palace Hotel, this wellknown Italian fashion brand has been selling designer-quality
apparel for over fifty years. The focus of the current collection
is on sexy urban clothes for confident sophisticated women.
Of course elegant Italian-made couture doesn’t come cheap,
so you might want to start thinking now about how you can
claim that must-have summer dress as a business expense.
QOpen 10:00 - 13:00, 15:30-18:00.
Modiana D-3, Obala 14 b, tel. 671 67 16, fax 671
67 17. A women’s clothing store with a decidedly nautical
lean, they sell a number of namebrand clothing lines that
you could just as well find at home. However, if you’ve been
swept off your feet by a local yachtsman and are off for an
impromptu sailing trip, you might want to stop here first so
you are certain to look the part. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00,
Sun 09:00 - 13:00.
Studio La Perla D-3, Obala 33, tel. 674 01 86,
[email protected], www.morris.si. This small boutique in
the Life Class Resort complex has you covered if you’ve
forgotten to pack your swimsuit or would just like to treat
yourself to something a little nicer before hitting the
beach.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed
Mon.
Trgovina Skinny B-3, Obala 7c, tel. 673 80 16, www.
rebel.si. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.
Flowers
Florist’s shop Orhidea F-4, Obala 114, tel. 677 73 33,
[email protected].
Gifts & Souvenirs
That’s Slovenia Tel. 059 190 784, info@thatslovenia.
com, www.thatslovenia.com.
25
26
piran
PortoroŽ Shopping
T-shirts and caps in the best shops in Slovenia
more as a souvenir
Piran is to the Adriatic what Bled is to the Alps and
Slovenia as a whole is to Central Europe: tiny, friendly and
overwhelmingly picturesque. It’s a town that is almost
impossible not to fall in love with on your first visit, and if
you only have time for a day trip you’ll likely want to make
plans to return. We also only half-jokingly added “family
residence in Piran - preferably renovated” to our list of
things we now look for in potential significant others, but
that’s only because we’re superficial.
Despite it’s modest size Piran is awash in superlatives.
It boasts what is undeniably the country’s finest square,
the 19th century Tartinijev Trg named after the composer
Giuseppe Tartini, and what has to be one of the most
dramatically situated churches anywhere in Europe, St
George Cathedral and its spectacular bell tower perched
on the hill above. In addition its numerous restaurants not
only turn out some of the best seafood we’ve ever eaten
but also serve it in some equally unforgettable settings.
www.thatslovenia.com
Markets
Souvenir D-3, Obala 14. Packe d wi th all thin gs
touristic, from great togarish, this place is a holidaymakers dream come true. A numb er of vendorsare
packed into this cool warehouse space and provide
one stop shopping for souvenirs,postcards, and all your
beachside needs. This is an easy way to get all yourshopping done and get right back to having fun. QOpen 09:00
- 22:00.
Sport & Leisure
Interspor t Por torož D-3, Obala 14 b, tel./fax
671 67 15, w w w.interspor t.com. This ou tpost of
Metre for metre this petite Venetian port can hold its own
against anyone, including the imperial capital just over the
horizon that was responsible for much of its fortune. In fact
Piran does have the same kind of open-air museum feel
to it as Venice, only on a much much smaller scale (and
without the €6 espressos, stagnant lagoon smell, periodic
flooding and constant worry of sinking into the sea).
However, once you venture from the heavily trafficked waterfront and central square down the narrow backstreets,
the crumbling façades of ancient villas, freshly-laundered
clothes hanging from windows overhead and the odd
overgrown garden let you know that Piran should not be
mistaken for some manufactured cultural Disneyland - the
charms are real and, yes, people do actually live here.
Visit our e-shop
the international chain is a useful and fair-priced sporting goods store, carrying all manner of athletic equipment, swimsui ts, and clothing for men, women, and
children. They even sell camping equipment should you
decide to flee your hotel for one of the local campsites.
QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 09.00 - 13.00.
O!bala Board shop E-3, Obala 57, tel. 674 80 52,
www.obsession.si. According to the sales man the name
of this skate shop is an expletivein skater-language, and
if you find yourself stumbling across the skate park in
Lucija and shouting expletives at yourself for leaving your
skateboard gear athome you can duck into this tiny shop
and get everything you need, from shoesto boards, and get
out on the ramp. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00.
Closed Sun.
Banka Koper (Branch bank Portorož) D-3, Obala
33, tel. 5 674 33, www.banka-koper.si. QOpen 08:30
- 12:00, 15:00-17:00, Sat 08:30 - 12:00. Closed Sun.
NLB - Nova Ljubljanska banka (Branch bank
Lucija) E-4, Obala 112, tel. 5 677 08, www.nlb.si.
QOpen 08:30:13:00, 15:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Beauty salons
Hairdresser Tanja E-4, Obala 114, tel. 5 677 18 02.
QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 8:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Salon Trendy D-3, Obala 33, tel. 5 692 21 50. QOpen
08:30 - 20:00, Sat 8:30 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Post
Post office Lucija B-3, Obala 107, tel. 5 671
32 01. Q Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00.
Closed Sun.
Post off ice Por tor ož D/E3, K stari cesti 1, tel. 5 671 32 20. Q Open 08:00 - 19:00,
Sat 08:00 - 12:00.
In the wake of the Roman’s withdrawal, the Byzantines
asserted their power in the region for over a century
before themselves being driven out by the Franks, which
triggered a wave of migration by Slavs from the interior to
the coast. As Venice gradually came to power in the north
Adriatic, the inhabitants of the cities along the Istrian and
Dalmatian coasts signed trade contracts and political
agreements with each other and the Venetians in an attempt to maintain their independence. However, during
the 13th century Venice finally decided that it would like
to have full control of the salt pans surrounding Piran,
and launched a short successful war in 1282.
Venetian rule lasted for over 500 years, only coming to
an end in 1797 at the hands of Napoleon, but unfortunately for the wee Corsican the Austrians invaded shortly
thereafter and held the territory on and off before taking
firm control in 1813. During the next hundred years,
Piran experienced exceptional prosperity and growth,
with many of the town’s most notable administrative
buildings dating from this period, including the town hall
and even Tartinijev Trg, which had previously been the
inner harbour.
Where to stay
Laptop login
Cacao D-3, Obala 14, tel. 5 674 10 35, info@cacao.
si, www.cacao.si. QOpen 08:00 - 03:00.
Pub Kapelca D-3, Obala 16 a, tel. 041 665 881.
QOpen 07:00 - 03:00.
The area of present-day Piran was settled by Illyrian
tribes during the pre-Roman era, but historians still do
not agree on the origins of its name. Of the competing
theories, the one which sounds most plausible to us is
that it is derived from pyr, the Greek word for fire, because
the peninsula was originally used primarily as a grounds
for lighting fires to guide ships to the nearby settlement of
Aegida. After a brief war with the local tribes the Romans
annexed much of the north-east Adriatic in 178 BC, and
steadily colonised the area until the decline of their
empire during the 5th and 6th centuries.
After World War I all of Istria came under the rule of
Italy, which neglected the region leading to significant
economic and cultural decline. Following World War
II, Piran was included in the zone of Yugoslav military
administration, officially becoming a part of Yugoslavia
in 1954. It gained independence as part of the Republic
of Slovenia in 1991.
Directory
Banks
History
View of Piran from the old town wall
Tourist Information
Turist Information Piran A-1, Tartinijev Trg 2, tel.
673 44 40, fax 673 44 41, [email protected], www.
portoroz.si. Q September - June: 09:00-17:00. Sunday:
10:00-14:00. July - August: 09:00-20:00
piran.inyourpocket.com
Most visitors choose to sleep in nearby Portorož which
may very well have more hotels than Piran has buildings,
however this is a shame on several levels. For anyone
with even a hint of romanticism in them Piran deserves
more than just a day trip, there is nothing quite like waking
up in the morning and looking out your window onto the
squares, windy cobblestone streets and red tile roof tops
of an old Venetian town. There are also much better centrally located budget options here including a couple great
B&Bs and a quite a few private apartments. While there
are technically four different hostels in town, three of them
are essentially a single place run by the same people but
housed in different buildings very near each other, and
none of the four are hostels in the true sense of the word,
meaning single and odd numbered beds are not available.
27
28
piran
piran
Miracolo di Mare Tomšičeva 23, tel. 59 21 76 60/51
[email protected], www.hostel-val.com. One street in from
the waterfront near the seemingly endless row of seafood
restaurants, this old school Piran standard could do with a
makeover and a couple extra bathrooms, but without much
competition to deal with in the budget category we won’t be
holding our breath in anticipation. All in all it’s a good value
option with clean, comfortable rooms and a plentiful breakfast
buffet that draws some rave reviews. There’s also a chance
they can hook you up with a parking pass for a nearby lot, but
make sure to ask in advance. Q 22 rooms (doubles €44-50,
triples €66-75, quads €88-100). JAGK
Piran A-1, Stjenkova 1, tel. 676 21 00, marketing@hoteli-
Where to eat
piran.si, www.hoteli-piran.si. Built in 1964, Piran’s largest
hotel also holds the dubious distinction of being the ugliest
building in town, a bright blue monstrosity next to the theatre
that takes up a sizeable chunk of waterfront real estate. However, the good news for those staying here is that the exterior
can’t be seen from the inside, and the views from the seaside
balconies are splendid. The rooms themselves are comfortable
enough, but still have a bit an uninspired resort town feel to
them despite being renovated back in 2002. Q 80 rooms and
10 apartments (singles €61-87, doubles €72-122, apartments
€130-168). PJAGBKW hhhh
Tartini A-1, Tartinijev Trg 15, tel. 671 10 00, info@
Tartinijev Trg
Hotels
Barbara Fiesa C-1, Fiesa 68, tel. 617 90 00, hotel.
[email protected], www.hotelbarbarafiesa.com. Nestled
between a forest-covered hill and a small rocky bay about
a kilometre east of town, with a conference centre, indoor
salt water pool, fitness centre and seaside sports courts
it’s the closest Piran has to a resort. The rooms are modern,
comfortable and clean if not enormous, and all have balconies
with views of either the sea or lake, though many are partially
obstructed by trees. Be aware that its “beach” is little more
than a narrow pile of rocks and some slabs of concrete, a fact
that does little to discourage the sun worshippers during the
summer. Q 42 rooms (singles €67-87, doubles €100-140).
PHARFLKDC hhh
Fiesa C-1, Fiesa 57, tel. 671 22 00, hotel.fiesa@amis.
net, www.hotelfiesa.com. A friend once described this
place to us as something of a Slovene Fawlty Towers, and
after checking it out for ourselves we can’t say we entirely
disagree. That being said the rooms are comfortable enough
and, even with the premium you have to pay for a balcony and
sea view, it’s cheaper than most other hotels in either Piran
or Portorož. Not our first choice but a passable plan B during
the high season or for budget-minded travellers who aren’t
hard to please. Q (doubles €62-98, triples €88-94, quads
€110-132, suites €162-200). PALK hhh
Max Korpusa 26, tel. 673 34 76/41 69 29 28, info@
maxpiran.com, www.maxpiran.com. Up the hill from Tartini
Square, this small boutique hotel is housed in a beautiful 300
year old house and is one of our favourite places to stay on
the coast, although if you’re a light sleeper the over-active
bells at the cathedral next door may prove bothersome.
Max, the owner and apparently sole employee, is a friendly
old bulldog and ardent Liverpool supporter who’ll be glad to
carry your luggage up the narrow stairs or talk your ear off
over coffee, but we’ve also heard rumours that he can have
a bit of bark if you interrupt his afternoon siesta. Q 6 rooms
(doubles €60-70). PJA hhh
Piran In Your Pocket
Val A-1, Gregorčičeva 38a, tel. 673 25 55, yhostel.
44 55 11, [email protected], miracolodimare.si/en/.
This highly recommended bed and breakfast is at the south
end of town only a couple streets away from where the
intercity buses drop off. The rooms are simple but tastefully
decorated and were all completely renovated just last year,
however, some are larger than others so it might be a good
idea to ask what’s available if yours seems a bit on the small
side. Breakfast is served out back in a pleasant courtyard
area, and the incredibly friendly owner can arrange all kinds
of excursions and activities. Q 12 rooms (singles €50-55,
doubles €60-70). PJAB hhh
In a town surrounded on three sides by the Mediterranean
there’s no prizes for guessing what the most prominent
type of restaurant is - if you said Chinese please take a
moment to consult a map. The waterfront promenade
between the port and the lighthouse at Cape Madonna
is seafood central with around a dozen eateries vying for
your hard-earned euros. While they have varying levels of
popularity amongst locals, tourists and guide books, their
menus, prices and sea views are virtually the same and
you can rest assured that during the high season empty
tables are few and far between.
hotel-tartini-piran.com, www.hotel-tartini-piran.com.
With apologies to several other worthy contenders, Tartini
Square is without any question the finest urban space in all of
Slovenia and for our money the views overlooking it from this
adjacent hotel of the same name are the best in town - all the
better that they come without the €10 premium charged for
rooms with a sea view. Inside, the well-appointed rooms are
warm and spacious, and the hotel’s lone suite and its private
terrace are a great value if there is someone you’d like to
impress. Q 45 rooms and 1 suite (singles €62-88, doubles
€84-118, triples €114-162, suite €140-192). hhh
With so much action condensed in one place, a lot of visitors make the unfortunate mistake of overlooking the host
of smaller family-run places hidden away down Piran’s
windy side streets, back alleys and squares, which usually
offer the same fresh expertly-prepared Mediterranean
cuisine in a more relaxed intimate setting. We’ve listed
some of our favourites here, but there are many more
waiting to be found.
Hostels
behind a large stone cistern on the 1st of May Square, Fontana is the place to come if you’ve grown weary of seafood.
Of course this being Piran fish is not absent from the menu
entirely, but the focus here is on Balkan cuisine which generally means plates piled high with a variety of meat that has
been spiced and grilled to perfection. Combination platters
for two are a great value and will let you have a taste of
everything. QOpen 15:00 - 24:00, Tue Closed during winter.
(€5-16). PJAB
Alibi B11/B14 A-1, Bonifacijeva 11, tel. 031 363
666, [email protected], www.alibi.si. Listed as two separate
locations (as with all Alibi hostels the names are derived from
the street addresses) but practically across the street from
one another with reception at B11, they’re at the opposite
end of town from where the buses drop off so be ready for an
impromptu sightseeing tour on your way there. Recent renovations have left them looking great and thankfully seem to have
taken care of earlier dampness and mould problems. Rooms
on the top floors of each building have their own terraces, and
all rooms at B14 are en suite. Q 21 rooms (doubles €40-50,
quads €60-80). PJNW
Alibi T60 A-1, Trubarjeva 60, tel. 031 363 666, info@
alibi.si, www.alibi.si. Despite the name, with its five en
suite double rooms and off-site reception this place is really
a budget hotel annex, which is a good thing in our book. All
rooms are priced the same but like the Alibi’s other two
locations one has the added bonus of a private roof top terrace with stunning views. And although we obviously don’t
encourage such dishonesty, resourceful groups of three on
a tight budget can quite easily get away with throwing down
a sleeping bag and having management be none the wiser.
Q 5 rooms (doubles €50). PJN
International
Fontana A-1, Gallusova 2, tel. 673 12 00. Tucked away
Mediterranean
Altana A-1, Tartinijev Trg 15, tel. 671 10 00. The best
thing about the restaurant inside Hotel Tartini is the same
as the hotel itself: its location right on Tartini Square and
the wonderful views this affords. The food on the extensive
Mediterranean menu isn’t the best or cheapest in town, but
even if you decide not to stay for dinner having a drink on the
terrace overlooking the square is a must while you’re in Piran.
QOpen 18:00 - 22:00. (€6.5-24). PJAB
Delfin A-1, Kosovelova 4, tel. 673 24 48. A bit on the
scruffy side compared to some of the competition around the
corner, Delfin does claim to be the oldest fish restaurant in
town and has the unique distinction of being located in a 500
year old former municipal building. The food is also quite good
- especially when accompanied by some cheap house wine
- and the service friendly and unhurried, although our waiter
didn’t seem overly amused when we tried to order dolphin
(‘You don’t have dolphin? But isn’t delfin Slovene for dolphin?’).
QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (€6-21). PJAB
29
30
piran
piran
Galeb A-1, Pusterla 5, tel. 673 32 25. In the north of
town just around the corner from the pathway leading up to
St George Cathedral, this small family-run affair is another
great option for superb home-made seafood dishes. Savo
Ristič handles things in the kitchen, while his wife Mija stays
out front making guests feel at home as they crowd around
a half dozen cosy tables. Highly recommended for a more
intimate dining experience. QOpen 11:00 - 16:00; 18:0023:00. (€5-19). JAG
Ivo A-1, Gregorčičeva 31, tel. 673 22 33. This place came
Cafés
highly recommended by some of our Slovene friends who
know a thing or two about quality cuisine, and we can’t say
that we were disappointed. It may look a little worse for wear
than some of the other places you pass along the promenade,
but every item on our reasonably-priced combo platter was
cooked to perfection. Would we be able to tell it apart from the
competition in a blind taste test? It’s highly unlikely we’ll ever
have to. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (€6-24). PJAB
Café Donat A-1, Prešernovo nabrežje 3. The only
Pavel & Pavel A-1, Gregorčičeva 3, tel. 674 71 02/674
Klet Cantina on Prvomajski Trg
non-seafood restaurant that dares to show its face on
the waterfront south of the lighthouse, Donat is a great
place to grab a coffee or beer if you want to experience
the boisterous hustle and bustle of the main promenade
but aren’t ready to settle in for a meal. However, be aware
that you’ll be continually assaulted by mouthwatering
smells wafting along in the gentle sea breeze. QOpen
07:00 - 24:00. B
Café Teater A-1, Kidričevo Nabrežje, tel. 041 63
89 33, www.piranjein.com. Housed in the golden
yellow theatre building between Hotel Piran and the
pier, Teater’s always busy terrace spills over onto the
promenade where you can lounge atop comfy pillows
and observe the comings and goings of the port. The
café pulls double duty as the town’s premier nightspot,
which would come highly recommended even if it had
some competition. If that weren’t enough they also rent
scooters and some fabulous apartments across the
harbour. QOpen 07:00 - 02:00. PJAB
Caffe Bar Chris A/B-1, Tomšičeva 13. Just around
the corner from the Miracolo di Mare B&B at the south
end of town, when the chairs and tables are brought
in for the night you would be forgiven for mistaking it
for a private residence. In fact, other than the laundry
hanging overhead nothing really stands out about it all,
which is why it’s a great place to grab a morning coffee
and practice your rudimentary Slovene or Italian with the
locals. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. JNB
Giuseppe B-1, Kajuhova 6. Against a crowded field
Guiseppe boasts by far the most comfortable seating on
the central square - oversized wicker chairs and sofas with
thick white cushions that can easily lead to an unplanned
siesta on hot summer afternoons. The perfect place to
relax in the shade and soak the atmosphere of Tartinijev
Trg. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. JAB
Tartini Café A-1, Tartinijev Trg 3, tel. 673 33 81. In
a town were the famous composer unwittingly lends his
name to just about everything, we’re not exactly sure how
this became the Tartini café but we assume it wasn’t an
easy feat. In any event, housed in a beautiful building that
was once the old town Loggia in the north corner of Tartini
Square, it’s definitely worthy of the name - although it’s
pastel furniture and futuristic egg shell chairs do seem a
bit out of place. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PJAB
71 01, fax 674 71 00. This extremely popular family-run
seafood restaurant is something of an institution on the waterfront of Piran. In order to accommodate the demand from
both tourists and locals, they had to open a second location
- the imaginatively named Pavel 2, lest there be any confusion
- just a couple steps away. The covered outdoor dining area
is close enough to the sea to catch your own dinner, although
it’s probably a better idea to just enjoy the superb view and
leave the angling to old Pavel. But most importantly the food
actually manages to back up its oversized reputation, and
may even necessitate a return visit. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.
TJAUBK
Pirat A-1, Župančičeva 26, tel. 673 14 81. A quieter
alternative for those who would like to avoid the omnipresent
crowds at the main clutch of seafood places on Prešernovo
Nabrežje but still fancy a proper plate of fish with views of the
water, although in this case that water is the port rather than
the open sea. There are usually a couple of daily specials sans
fish for around €7, but prices tend to be on par with those
at its higher volume competition on the other side of town.
QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (€5.5-18). PJAB
Riva A-1, Prešernovo Nabrežje 6, tel. 673 22 25, info@
riva.si, riva.primorska.com. The last in a long line of
waterfront fish places stretching from the port towards the
lighthouse at the tip of the peninsula, it’s also one of the best.
The décor has a slightly more sophisticated air about it than
some of the neighbours, and the menu even has a couple
of token Balkan dishes thrown in to prevent a complete fish,
pasta and pizza monopoly. Carafes of drinkable table wine
for only €8 a litre also make sticking around for drinks after
an especially filling meal an attractive option. QOpen 11:00
- 24:00. (€5-19). PJAB
Verdi A-1, Verdijeva 20, tel. 673 27 37. During the warmer
months the tiny interior is supplemented by a huge outdoor
dining area that commandeers the better part of a small
square around the corner and more than triples capacity. The
prices and selection are similar to the waterfront places, but
the service is a little more attentive and personable. The seafood spaghetti for two comes highly recommended. QOpen
11:00 - 23:00, Wed Closed during winter. (€6-20).
Pizza
Batana Kidričevo Nabrežje 4, tel. 676 25 17. Batana is a
type of small traditional fishing boat widely used in the Adriatic and
an appropriate name given its location opposite the town’s inner
harbour where countless Batana boats are moored. The restaurant serves up a variety of cheap tasty pizzas from underneath
St George’s gate on the back side of the enormous municipal
courthouse. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (€5-6.5). PJABS
Pizzeria Tartini A/B-1, Gortanova 1, tel. 673 16 13.
Yet another Piran establishment bearing the name Tartini,
this small pizzeria has a great location on sleepy Bratstva
Trg just outside Porto Marciana, one of the well-preserved
gates in the city’s former defensive wall. Despite the name,
the menu has a bit of everything with pizzas only accounting
for a couple pages, but to honest for us the food is something
of an afterthought given the charming setting. QOpen 08:00
- 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (€5-12). JAB
Wine Bars
Klet Cantina A-1, Prvomajski Trg, tel. 673 32 75. For a
healthy dose of old world charm there’s nowhere better than
this tiny wine bar hidden beneath a canopy of grape vines on
the 1st of May Square. This place has so much character you’ll
wish you could bottle some up and smuggle it home in your
hand baggage. Light meat and cheese plates are available if
you linger long enough to drink up an appetite. QOpen 10:00
- 23:00. (€5-8). JB
What to see
Not much of an effort needs to be made to go sightseeing
in Piran, in fact quite the opposite is true: it would take a
Herculean feat to avoid seeing the town’s wealth of sights.
In addition to a lengthy must-see list of churches, squares
and palaces, there are countless less-heralded sights to
be enjoyed. Piran’s cobbled backstreets and alleyways
are literally lined with statues, arches, coats of arms,
intricately carved doors and stately old villas just waiting
to imprint themselves in visitors’ memories. The region’s
long seafaring tradition is also well-represented at two
nautical themed museums, and a number of art galleries
- both public and private - hold regular exhibitions.
Piran is easily covered on foot, although a hike up to the cathedral and further on to the remaining section of the old town
wall is enough to leave us in need of a cold beer and a siesta,
especially during the summer. Also be aware that many of
the museums and galleries keep shorter hours in the winter,
some even open by appointment only, so if you visit during
the low season it’s always a good idea to drop by the helpful
tourist office for all the latest information.
Tartini Square (Tartinijev Trg) A-1. Already arguably
the most impressive squares in Slovenia, all debate was put
to rest last year when it was transformed into a pedestrian
only zone with outdoor cafés taking the place of parked cars
- a fact that has yet to be reflected on most internet sites,
including Google Maps. Fronted by two large neo-Renaissance
buildings on one side and a mélange of smaller buildings of
varying architectural styles on the other, the square itself is
younger than almost all of them, having been part of Piran’s
harbour until it was filled in in 1884. The square’s inner oval
was given its distinctive shape when it served as the terminus
for an electric railway that connected Piran to Portorož and
Lucija until 1953, while its white marble surface was something of a posthumous gift to the late Tartini in 1992 on what
would have been his 300th birthday.
Town Hall A-1, Tartinijev Trg 2. The modern town hall
dominates the northern end of Tartinijev Trg and is the
administrative centre of the Municipality of Piran, which
includes the nearby towns of Portorož, Strunjan and Lucija. It
was originally built by the Venetians shortly after their arrival
at the end of the 13th century, but was torn down in 1877
and rebuilt in a more contemporary style. Several statues
and coats of arms that adorned the original building are on
display in the atrium.
Town Wall Piran’s town walls were built and rebuilt in various
stages over the better part of a millennia, originally enclosing only the area west of Tartinijev Trg but later expanded to
include the entire peninsula. Completed near the end of the
15th century the best preserved section is to the east of the
city centre on Morgoron Hill, which has been reopened to the
public after recent renovations and offers the best terrestrial
views of the entire town, albeit it at an angle that slightly
distorts the length of the peninsula. Seven well-preserved
gates encompassing different architectural styles are still in
existence. Our favourite is Marciana Gate on Bratstva Trg,
which features the winged lion of St Mark scowling mightily
but holding open a book as a symbol of peace.
Venetian House A-1, Tartinijev Trg 4. One of the best
examples of Gothic Venetian architecture in Piran, the unmistakeable red palace was built in the middle of the 15th century
and is the oldest residence still standing on Tartinijev Trg.
According to local legend it was commissioned by a wealthy
Venetian merchant in order to prove strength of his love to
a beautiful young Piranese girl and win over the less than
supportive townspeople. We don’t want to ruin the ending
for you, but they can probably fill you in on the details if you
ask at the Piranske Soline gift shop that now occupies the
ground floor.
Essential
1st of May Square (Prvomajski Trg) A-1. The adminis-
trative centre of Piran until the 13th century, these days it stands
in stark contrast to the glistening Tartinijev Trg only a couple
hundred metres away: scruffy and an unkempt with the odd
clump of grass poking up between stones and more than one
façade unintentionally revealing brick walls beneath crumbling
layers of paint, in other words, perfect. In addition to several
restaurants, art galleries and a great little wine bar, a large stone
cistern elevates nearly half the square a metre off the ground and
serves as a stage for various music, dance and theatre performances during the summer. Flanking the stairs leading up to the
now dormant wells are two allegorical statues representing Law
and Justice, both of which are obligingly photogenic.
Regata day in Piran
31
32
Koper
piran
PORTAFORTUNA, Tartinijev Trg, Piran
The somewhat kitsch slogan used by Slovenia’s neighbours
to describe their coastline is “the Mediterranean as it
used to be.” Slovenians are more clever than that. That’s
why one local of the gorgeous seaside town of Koper
told Koper In Your Pocket that the Slovenian coast is in
fact, simply, “the Mediterranean as it is.” Brilliant, as is
Koper, a town of not all that many people just an hour
from Ljubljana, yet in attitude and outlook it might just
as well be one million miles away. If Ljubljana reeks of
Austrian influence, Koper is Slovenia’s Italian connection.
“It’s Slovenia, Jim, but not as we know it.”
Sintyan Shop
OPEN - EVERY DAY 9.00-21.00
Churches
Church of St Peter A-1, Tartinijev Trg 8. The only
church on Tartinijev Trg, the relatively diminutive St Peter has
roots going all the way back to 1272, but took its present
classical form in 1818. An exquisite relief above the main
entrance depicts Christ bestowing the keys to the Heavenly
Kingdom upon Peter.
St Francis Church & Monastery B-1, Bolniška 20. Up
the hill to the west of Tartinijev Trg, the church and monastery
complex dates back to the beginning of the 14th century, but
has seen its fair share of changes over the years. During the
summer months, concerts are often in held in the monastery’s splendid atrium, and in the basement there is a fine
collection of paintings by mostly unknown Venetian artists,
which was only opened to the public in 1997. QOpen 09:00
- 12:00; 17:00-20:00.
St George Cathedral B-1, Adamičeva 6. Watching
over the town and
visible from nearly
every open space
is the massive cathedral dedicated
to Piran’s patron
saint, the dragon
slayin g youn g
knight from Capadoccia, George.
Legend has it that
towards the end
of the 16th century the cathedral
fell into a state
of disrepair, which was so troubling that the Saint George
himself made an appearance in order to motivate the the
citizenry to undertake the necessary renovations, and even
blinded a sceptical mayor to show he meant business. True
or not, the cathedral saw some major renovations shortly
thereafter, including the addition of a nearly 50m bell tower,
which is a scale copy of the San Marco Campanile in Venice.
Throw in some stunning views of both the city and the sea
and you have the makings for one of the most impressive
churches in Slovenia.
Museums & Galleries
Sergej Mašera Maritime Museum A-1, Cankarjevo
Nabrežje 3, tel. 671 00 40, [email protected], www.
pommuz-pi.si. Named for a young sailor from Gorica who was
killed during World War II and later declared a national hero,
the museum’s collection is dedicated to the maritime-related
history of the north Adriatic, including detailed exhibitions of
Slovene naval history and the local fishing trade. It’s housed
in the 19th century Gabrielli Palace located on the inner harbour near Tartinijev Trg. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00; 18:00-21:00.
Closed Mon. Admission €2.5/3.5 for students/adults.
Wandering around its Old Town, all narrow streets and
Venetian-style houses, you could be forgiven that you
had indeed crossed the border into Italy. You are as
liable to hear Italian spoken as Slovenian, there are
Italian signs everywhere, and it’s all a reminder that the
border between one country and another has never really
mattered all that much in these parts. Always something
of a blur, it disappeared forever two years ago when
Slovenia joined the Schengen block.
Tartini House A-1, Tartinijev Trg 7. Originally going by the
name ‘Casa Pizagrua’ this somewhat modest palace next to
St Peter’s Church on the eastern side Tartinijev Trg was the
birthplace of the composer - and namesake of roughly half of
Piran - Giuseppe Tartini. It underwent extensive renovations
in the late 1980s and is now home to the main offices of the
Italian Community in Piran. There is also a small museum
on the first floor displaying, among other things, one of the
master’s violins, his death mask and various letters, manuscripts and scores.
The Museum of Under water Activities A-1,
Župančičeva 24, tel. 041 68 53 79, [email protected], www.muzejpodvodnihdejavnosti.
si. This somewhat awkwardly named museum is a must
see for diving aficionados, or at least we would assume
so. The small space gives a fairly thorough overview of the
history diving and diving related activities in and around the
region, from shipwrecks and rescue diving up to submarines
and contemporary sport diving. If you’re walking along the
harbour towards the centre of town you can’t miss the mannequins outside sporting antique diving gear. QOpen 10:00
- 12:00; 16:00-20:00.
Koper’s old town
Souvenirs
Tourist Information
[email protected]. This gift shop cum art gallery on Tartinijev
Trg is packed with an eclectic mix of handmade arts and
crafts that are a welcome alternative to your typical run-ofthe-mill souvenirs. Of course we couldn’t figure out what a
lot of items had to do with Piran (or Europe for that matter),
but they made for interesting browsing nonetheless. QOpen
09:00 - 21:00.
Turist Information Centre Koper L-10, Titov
Portafortuna Tartinijev Trg, tel. 051 270 460, rapiran.
Koper, the oldest town in Slovenia, developed on a
rocky island with the Roman name Capris. Out of
the three oldest cities on the Slovene coast (Koper,
Izola, Piran), Koper has experienced the most numerous layout modifications. The reasons for that also
need to be sought in the changes of various reigns
and states, all of which marked the city with their
specific traits and names. Koper was called Capris
in Roman times, in the times of Pope Gregory I (599)
Insula Capraria (“goat island”), Iustinopolis under the
Byzantine Empire (between mid 6th and 8th centuries)
and Caput Histriae (‘head of Istria’) by the Aquileia
Patriarchs. The Venetians translated this name into
Italian, Capodistria, while in Slovenian it’s known
simply as Koper.
The longest reign over the city was that of the Venetian Republic (1279-1797), when Koper experienced
economic (trade, salt production) and cultural prosperity (painting, music). The Venetian period is still
echoed by the city’s architecture; despite numerous
modern interventions, it has preserved its medieval
character, and is a member of the European Association of Medieval Cities. In the Middle Ages, Koper
was an island surrounded by walls and connected to
the mainland with a wooden bridge in the direction of
Škocjan. It was protected by a mighty fortress - Lion
Castle - and surrounded by vast salt pans. Koper’s importance began to diminish in the 18th century, when
Trieste was proclaimed a free port, and ultimately
ended with the downfall of the Venetian Republic.
In the period from the 19th century to the First World
War (i.e. from the Napoleonic Empire 1806-1813 to
the Hapsburg Monarchy 1813-1918), Koper experienced numerous changes in terms of economic
and social development. This period was marked
by the reduction of the salt pans, which were entirely abandoned in 1912, and the changing layout
of the city, which began to lose its island character.
In 1825, a second road connection with the mainland was constructed (Semedela Road) followed
by the coastal road in the middle 19th century, a
sea connection with Trieste-Poreč and the railway
connection Trieste-Poreč in 1902. Under the Italian
Empire, Koper ceased to be an island after the deserted salt pans that separated it from the mainland
were drained.
Town Gallery Piran A-1, Tartinijev Trg 3, tel. 671 20
80, [email protected], www.obalne-galerije.si.
Above Café Tartini on the main square, Piran’s most important art space hosts a range of exhibitions throughout the
year including the popular Ex-Tempore of Piran, which brings
together upwards of 500 artists from Central and Eastern
Europe annually. Unfortunately, their website is a little light
on information - in English or otherwise - so it’s probably
best to enquire about upcoming exhibitions at the nearby
tourist centre or via email. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00
- 13:00. Closed Mon.
Shopping
History
Trg 3, tel. 664 64 03, [email protected], www.koper.si. Q March-September 09:00-20:00, Sunday
13:00-20:00 October-February: 09:00-17:00, Sunday
13:00-17:00
koper.inyourpocket.com
The time after the Second World War brought further
changes. Until the final determination of the border
with Italy through the signing of the London Memorandum in 1954, when it officially became part of
Yugoslavia, Koper was part of Zone B administered
by the Yugoslav national Army, first belonging to the
Julian March and from September 1947 to the neutral
state called the Free Trieste Territory (FTT). As part
of Yugoslavia, Koper experienced profound changes
in its national structure. This also brought about new
architectural interventions both in the city centre and
its surroundings, especially in terms of huge development with the construction of a modern port.
Today, Koper is both an commercial, university and
tourist city, offering seaside resorts, nautical tourism,
sports and shopping.
33
Koper
Where to stay
There is not a great deal of choice when it comes to sleeping in Koper: most of the hotels are a much of a muchness, and when it comes to Old Town hotels there is basically no choice at all. A good option if an Old Town address
is a must (and it should be) is to try and bag an apartment.
A number of agencies will rent you well-furnished though
often small apartments right in the city centre.
Events
6, 13, 20, 27 July, 21:30,
Summer film nights, Taverna,Koper/ Capodistria
2, 9, 16, 23 ,30 July
Concerts of classic music Tartini Junior- Atrium of
Preatorian Palace
€70-100
6-11 July
Theatre Workshop – Koper
00, fax 610 03 09, [email protected], info@
terme-catez.si. A short bus ride out of town, this smart
hotel right on the coast where the biggest draw is the
enormous swimming pool, which features a wave machine,
slides and a large area for children to splash around in. Most
of the decent rooms have a sea or swimming pool view,
and though not winning any design awards they are colourful, smart and cost about the same as a number of other
places not fit to lace its boots. Excellent value all round.
Q 114 rooms, 2 suites and 1 apartment (singles €71-79,
doubles €55-63).. PTHARUFLGBKDC
hhh
10-11 July
DISCONAUTICA- Koper
Aquapark hotel Žusterna Istrska 67, tel. 610 03
BIO Vanganelska, tel. 625 88 84, fax 625 88 85,
[email protected], www.hotel-bio.si. In the newer part
of town, some way from the Old Town (but accessible
by bus) the Bio is a good choice for those on a budget.
Rooms are simple but rather nice, and considering the
almost negative cost you get plenty of value for your money.
There’s an onsite restaurant complete with a terrace serving local specialities. Q 29 rooms (singles €38-53, doubles
€57-79, triples €76). PTHAR6LGBKW
hhh
Dijaški in študentski dom M-10, Cankarjeva 5, tel.
662 62 50, fax 662 62 51, ddkoper-recepcija@guest.
arnes.si. Koper’s Youth Hostel is a student dorm that benefits from an Old Town location. Accommodation is in triples,
while toilet facilities are shared. Book in advance as it often
packs out with school or other groups who block book the
rooms. Q Open July -August 100 rooms. TRLKW
Garni hotel Pristan N-10/11, Ferrarska 30, tel. 614
40 00, fax 566 00 16, [email protected], pristan-koper.
si. Though it looks less than promising from the outside,
this is just about the best hotel in town, and as such is the
default choice of the business classes. It’s spick, span,
and the well sized rooms are faultlessly attired. Bathrooms
are great, there are plenty of freebie toiletries and the staff
are both friendly and helpful in a wide variety of languages.
Note that not all rooms have balconies, and as there is no
extra cost for such luxuries ask for one when reserving or
checking in. Q 10 rooms and 6 suites (singles €77, doubles
€60, triples €50). PJHAULGBKDCW
hhhh
Vodišek M-12, Kolodvorska 2, tel. 639 24 68/041 634
hotel-vodisek.com. About half-way between the Old Town
and the bus and train stations, the Vodisek is a good budget
choice. Expect distinctly average rooms but at a more than
reasonable price, and friendly staff eager to help you find your
way around their town. The terrace café gets busy with locals
and appears to be a centre of gossip. All adds to the fun of
staying here. Note the reception is around the back, through
the shopping mall.Q 31 rooms (singles €59, doubles 88,
triples €107)44,2544,35. THR6ULBK hhh
11 July
During the afternoon Ball wih the band Dan PonjerGradin
18 July, 21:00
14th Festival of new rock and folk songs- Taverna,
Koper
19 July, 18:00
In the sign of Ancaran’s nights- At the courtyard
of TA Ankaran
25 July, 08:00
I n ter n a t i o n a l r e g a t t a A n ka r a n 2 0 0 9 - Pi er
Valdoltra
4, 11, 18, 25 August, 19:00
Koper –Streets are telling- Koper / Capodistria
5, 12, 19 August, 21:00
Jazz Etno Funky Festival – JEFF- Regional museum
of Koper
6 August, Evening
Mozart, welcome to Koper- Saint Ann cloisters
15 August, 10:00-19:00
Medieval open market, Adria Ancarano
21-23 August, 09:00
Show jumping- Bonifika Koper
30 August, 19:00
Closing concert of the wind orchestra- Carpaccio
square, Koper
10 September, 19:00
Exhibition and sale of small statues- Gallery
Meduza
11-12 September
Istria in heart-Koper
12-13 September, 07:30
18th international regatta of kayak and canoeAdria Ancarano
3 October
5th expedition on the route« Dekani -Tinjan Dekani
2-11 November
Traditional Martinmas- Vinakoper
35
koper
36
Where to eat
Koper, like all of the Slovenian coast, is blessed with some
wonderful fish and seafood restaurants. In fact, if you are
not all that into wet treats then you may well struggle, as
that’s all Koper really knows how to do. Look out for Koper
style fast food too, Okrepčevalnica bars: small, Italianstyle places which serve great food of the primo, secondo
piatti variety at lunchtime. You can usually eat very well
here for a fraction of the cost of a restaurant.
Fast Food
Okrepčevalnica - Fast food M-10, Trg Brolo 5, tel. 031
654 082. Sticking to old idiom ‘do one thing and do it well’
this fast food hatch serves cracking panini of various types
to just about everyone who passes and smells them. The
queues speak for themselves. There’s another branch just
around the corner on Cevljarska. Both outlets have two small
tables inside if you don’t fancy eating on the move. QOpen
08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JLNGBK
Fish
Manta M-10, Bazoviška 4a, tel. 031 701 331, info@
restaurant-manta.si, restaurant-manta.si. Fish and seafood
(what else!) restaurant on a terrace above the harbour. Below
are various other cafés and restaurants, but this is perhaps the
most upmarket. Doesn’t look like much from outside but the
food is terrific and service friendly.QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat,
Sun 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. PTJALGBK
Skipper L-9, Kopališko nabrežje 3, tel. 626 18 10, emil.
[email protected], www.skipper-koper.com. The seamen’s
and sailor’s choice, the highlight of this place in the heart of
the harbour is the raised terrace overlooking the marina and
shipyards. Expect to dine very well on huge pieces of fresh
fish caught that day. Wash it down with a couple of the great
local wines on the menu. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. Holidays
11:00-22:00 JAGBK
Cafés
Koper does coffee and cafes very well indeed. While
few serve anything approaching the cheapest coffee in
Slovenia (in fact, some places might well serve the most
expensive),where else are you going to find views like this?
Bar Bonaco K-L/11, Pristaniška 2, tel. 040 232
601. Slightly cheaper and more down to earth alternative
to Café Mercato on the other side of the market. You are
more likely to find the costermongers themselves here
enjoying a sly coffee and cigarette before heading back
to their stalls. Our fave café/bar in town for its sheer
authenticity. QOpen 06:30 - 20:00, Sat 06:30 - 14:00,
Sun 08:00 - 12:00. JAGB
International
Istrska klet Slavček L-11, Župančičeva 39, tel.
627 67 29. Fantastic! Plates of sea food nibbles such as
deep fried squid in batter served as appetisers or simple
snacks for the many locals who come here for lunch or an
early dinner. There is also for once a good non-fish menu:
check the daily specials on the blackboard, like the brilliant
minestrone soup. Super location too, and plenty of outside seating. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. Closed Sat. (€3-9.5).
JULGBK
La Storia Trattoria L-10, Pristaniška 3, tel. 626
20 18, [email protected], w w w.lastoria.si.
Excellent value fish and pizza on the seafront strip that
is Pristaniska. Covered terrace means you can sit here
and enjoy your huge pizzas even when it rains. Big salads,
generous ice creams and smiling waitresses. A winner.
QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 01:00. (€7-45).
PJA6UGBK
Okrepčevalnica Pr Bepča L-11, Čevljarska 36, tel.
627 20 52. Easily the best place to eat lunch in Koper. A
friendly, English speaking owner cooks up big pots of roast
potatoes, fresh fish and grilled veggies daily. It’s self-service,
order, take a seat then go back for your tray. Tito watches
over proceedings from a place of honour behind the counter.
Take away too. QOpen 07:00 - 17:00, Sat 07:00 - 13:00.
Closed Sun. TJAGKS
Pizza
Pizzeria Atrij L-10, Čevljarska 8, tel. 627 15 17/031
390 446. You need to make a bit of an effort to find this place.
Though the address is Čevljarska (Old Town Koper’s main
street) it is in fact found in a small alley off the street. Do find
it though, because it’s a brilliant little pizzeria that reminds
you just how close to Italy we really are. Cheap as chips too.
QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. JAUGBK
Pizzeria Park K-L/11, Pristaniška 2, tel. 626 10 25/041
681 844, [email protected], pizzeriapark-koper.
com. They’ve a genuine wood fired clay oven here and they
aren’t afraid to boast about it. Terrific pizza cooked in minutes
and whisked to your table by efficient staff. Drinks well priced,
including - we think - the cheapest beer on this little seafront
strip. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. JGBK
Pizzerija Pri Vodnjaku L-11, Prešernov Trg 4, tel. 040
295 000. Huge pizzas are served by efficient staff to chattering locals who sit at the big wooden tables and talk to
whoever they find. It’s that kind of place. Very friendly indeed,
the conversation makes up for the fact that this is not the
most picturesque square in Koper’s Old Town. QOpen 07:30
- 22:00, Sun 15:00 - 22:00. JAUGBK
Nightlife
Internet Café
Bars
fax 630 03 21, [email protected], www.pina.info. Great
internet café on a quiet street in Old Town with fantastic,
new computers and fast internet connections. Prices are dirt
cheap, the only gripe we would have is that coffee is from a
machine only (and a machine which it took us ten minutes
to understand how to operate). Note this is the only internet
café we found in Old Town. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun
16:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. PJRGW
3, tel. 630 87 92. In the newer part of Koper, around the
Vodisek hotel, this place is a lively bar that does not attract
speeding bikers, but does attract the city’s students. Indeed,
it attracts hundreds of them most evenings, so expect a
lively time a very friendlt bunch of people. The beer is good,
cold and cheap, and service as prompt as you would expect.
There’s half-decent pizza too if you’re hungry. QOpen 08:00
- 01:00, Wed, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 15:00 - 22:00.
JALEGBK
E Kavarna @ Pina L-10, Kidričeva 43, tel. 627 80 72,
Koper In Your Pocket
Bikers Speed Pub L-12, Cesta Zore Perello - Godina
38
izola
koper
Café Calypso L-10, Pristaniška 3, tel. 626 28 73/040
888 697, [email protected]. Makes up, along with
Kavarna Kapitanija and La Storia, something of an ‘around
Ukmarjev Trg’; trinity of trendy cafes and cocktail bars. Almost
within touching distance of the boats moored in the marina
this place is a veritable trend-fest of expensive sunglasses,
Lacoste polo shirts and soft leather shoes. Italians think they
do fashion well? Come here and you’ll be convinced they have
nothing on Slovenes. Q JAUGBKX
Kavarna Kapitanija K-10, Ukmarjev Trg 8, tel. 059
942 469/040 799 000, [email protected]. Rivals
La Storia as the trendiest café and bar in town. The local
sunglasses crowd love it, and to get a place on one of the
funky red or yellow sofas at the front you will need to be here
very early during the day or turn up in the latest convertible
with a gorgeous man or woman on your arm. By day café it
becomes a bar in the evening and for sheer posing value
there’s nowhere in town to beat it. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00.
TJAGBK
Lord Byron L-11, Repičeva 2. Koper’s one real pub is
tucked away on one of the narrowest, quietest streets in Old
Town, and is all the better for it. A couple of tables out on the
street fill up quick, but the real charm of this place is inside:
it’s Old England in Old Koper without even trying. Besides
Guinness and ales in bottles, there’s some good pub grub
on the menu too.
What to see
Koper, the Old Town at least, is one big sight. The joy of
coming here is to wander its streets, often getting lost,
mixing with locals, visitors and hoardes of day trippers.
Old Town’s main street - if you can call it that - is Cevljarska, which is no more than two or three metres wide
in places, and is packed from dawn to dusk when it, like
most of Old Koper, disappears inside. Cevljarska leads
down towards the town’s main square, Titov Trg, which
is dominated by the bell tower of the St. Mary’s of the
Assumption Cathedral, visible from all over Koper.
Originally Gothic, built in the 12th century, the cathedral
has been much changed since, and now possesses
something of a Neo-Renaissance appearance. Perhaps
the most astonishing building on the square however is
the bizarrely hacienda-like Praetorian Palace, the seat
of the city’s governor during the Venetian Republic. It’s
sublime loggia is the highlight, and the interior is given
over to the city’s excellent Tourist Information Centre,
and to temporary art exhibitions.
Beach
Mestno Kopališče Koper K-9, Kopališko nabrežje 1,
tel. 627 81 78. Koper’s small pebble beach lacks sand, but
is a lovely place to soak up the sun or to swim in the warm
(depending on the time of year of course…) water. You will find
it on Kopalisko Nabreze, next to the marina. There are large
areas of lawns for sunbathing, and an enclosed swimming
area. Lifeguards are on hand to make sure you do not swim off
out into the boating lanes. There are changing rooms, showers, children’s playgrounds, a restaurant and a café.
Galleries
Galerija Meduza L-11, Čevljarska 34, tel. 627 48 37.
An excellent collection of contemporary art by various local
artists, all of which is for sale. Friendly staff will help with
onward shipping should you require. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Koper In Your Pocket
Muzejska Galerija L-10, Kidričeva 21, tel. 663 35 70.
Part of the Koper Regional Museum (which is next door), the
gallery museum presents changing exhibitions of various
interest throughout the year. When we last visited the current
exhibition was a superb presentation of the role of profane
art and music in Venetian society. Check the gallery’s website
for details of current exhibitions.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat
09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Still an easygoing fishing village at heart, Izola doesn’t get
nearly as much love as some of Slovenia’s other coastal
towns and is often overlooked by tourists racing by on their
way to Piran for a day trip. However, as far as we’re concerned
it’s a beautiful little Venetian port town with enough amenities
to keep you comfortable, windy old streets to wander and
sights to see to make it a worthwhile destination in its
own right.
Museums
Koper Regional Museum L-10, Kidričeva 19, tel. 663
35 70, [email protected]. Housed inside a wonderful
Venetian Palace (and far more interesting than the exhibitions
inside), the Koper Regional Museum prsenets a rather dull
history of Koper, Izola and Piran. There’s precious little to
actually see, though there are some rather nice paintings
to admire, and the building is wonderful. Walking around is
not the worst way in the world to kill half an hour. Q Sep-Jun
Mon-Fri10:00-18:00, Sat and Sun 09:00-13:00; Jul-Aug:
09:00-13:00, Tue-Sun 18:00-21:00, Mon closed.
20 June
Mikijev & Vladov Memorial – Izola
30 June-5 July
Eurofest- Izola, Koper
24 June, 4 July, 18 July
Noči na plaži( Kingston-Vlado Kresnil , Siddharta)Simonov zaliv
Casino Carnevale Spodnje Škofije 259, tel. 654 05
casinocarnevale.com. Located north of Koper only 150
metres from the border, this Venice-themed casino has been
tempting Italians to head south for over a decade. There is
an assortment of slot machines and roulette tables covering
two clean brightly-lit floors, and three dimensional murals
on the walls and ceiling add some depth to the interior and
complete the classic Venetian villa motif, which includes a
gondola that doubles as a roulette table. If it’s your lucky
night you can enjoy some complimentary champagne while
riding to your next destination in the casino’s own limousine,
and even if it’s not you can at least get some comfort from
the complimentary buffet. Q Open 24hrs No admission.
POAULGKW
2-4 July
MIFF 2009- Lonka
7-19 July
Plesni kampus 2009
11 July
PUFF v Izoli- Pietro Coppo, Lonka
12 July
FENS 2009- Lonka
25 July-1 August
Evropski mladinski kongres- Izola
13-22 August
OFF 2009 - Oboa fagot festival- Park Pietro Coppo
in Riviera (concert durring day)
Manziolijeva palača ter Manziolijev trg (big
concerts)
Shopping
To be honest, nobody really comes to Koper to shop,
but that does not mean that there are no retail opportunities.
market is on Pristaniska ulica, opposite the hotel Koper.
It is open seven days a week from around 06:30, and
the stallholders offer a wide variety of local and imported
produce, as well as the local staple, fish. Indeed, the
fish section (find it at the back, inside) is the highlight
of coming here. Arrive before 10:00 and you will see
almost every fish native to these parts for sale, often at
incredibly cheap prices.
Mercator Center Koper Kolodvorska 4, tel. 662
69 04, www.mercator.si. Enormous Mercator hypermarket half way between the Old Town and the station.
You will find everything you could possibly need, and more
besides. Has a great fish counter as you would expect in
these parts. Most local buses stop here. QOpen 08:00
- 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00.
Izola’s accommodation options can be roughly divided
into two main categories: private apartments in and
around the old city centre and larger resort-style
hotels to the south and west of the modern marina on
the other side of town. Exceptions include the wonderful Marina Hotel situated right next to the old fishing
port and the Stara Šola Hostel in the secluded hill
town of Korte, which is actually closer to Croatia than
Izola but still manages to be part of the town’s greater
municipal district.
Events
Around Koper
Koper Market K-L/11, Pristaniška 2. Koper’s main
Where to stay
3- 10 September
Združene igre narodov- Izola
The old fishing port in Izola
Tourist Information
Tourist information J- 6, Sončno nabrežje 4
- Riva del sole 4, tel. 640 10 50, fax 640 10
52, [email protected], www.izola.eu. Q September- June: 08:00-19:00, Saturday 08:00-12:00
July- August: 08:00-19:00, Saturday 08:00-17:00,
Sunday 10:00-17:00
izola.inyourpocket.com
12 September
Diplomatska regata, Marina Izola
22-27 September
Izola boat show 2009- Marina Izola
September Ribiški praznik
Film Festivals
Kino Otok Manziolijev Trg 5, tel. 641 48 01/616
21 40, [email protected], www.isolacinema.
org. After a two year hiatus, the Kino Otok film festival
is returning strong for its fifth instalment between
10-14 September 2009. This largely open air event
is a must see as much for the great selection of
international films as the laid-back atmosphere of
Izola’s old town. Check out the festival website for
more details.
39
40
izola
izola
Upmarket
Hostels
belvedere.si, www.belvedere.si/index_eng.php. One
of Izola’s most upmarket options is actually situated a few
kilometres away, on a bluff overlooking the town and Gulf of
Trieste. The complex’s leafy grounds contain a central hotel
along with several smaller villas and a large oddly phallicshaped swimming pool, while the rooms themselves come
with all the standard four-star amenities and most also have
balconies. It’s quite a hike up the hill if you’re without your
own transport - although public buses do ply the route with
some frequency during the week and there is no shortage
of taxis. Q PA6ILKCW
889, [email protected], www.hostel-starasola.
si/eng. This beautifully renovated old schoolhouse is a great
option for those who would prefer the charms of a peaceful
countryside village to the more tourist-centric coastal towns,
although it definitely helps to have your own transport as
Korte is actually closer to the Croatian frontier than Izola or
Portorož. Brightly coloured private rooms and dormitories
are reasonably priced especially for larger groups and longer
stays, and the surrounding hills, villages and vineyards are
just begging to be explored by bike, foot or horseback. Q
17 rooms & 2 apartments (dorms €20-24, doubles €40-48,
quads €68-84, apartments €80-100). A6LW
Belvedere Dobrava 1a, tel. 660 51 00, belvedere@
Marina I-6, Veliki Trg 11, tel. 660 41 00, fax 660 44 10,
[email protected], www.hotelmarina.si/index.
php?id=51. Aside from private apartments, the Marina
is pretty much your only option if you want to stay right in
the centre of the old town, luckily it’s also one of the best.
Perched right above the fishing port, it’s perfectly situated
to soak up all of Izola’s rich history. The rooms are not huge
but they’re all incredibly comfortable and well-equipped, and
about half have balconies with sea views - although they
come at a significant premium. The multi-lingual staff is
friendly and helpful, especially when it comes to making travel
arrangements, suggesting excursions or answering random
questions. Q 52 rooms (singles €59-115, doubles €99-144,
suites €135-261). hhh
Mid-range
Delfin I-7, Tomažičeva 10, tel. 660 70 00, delfin.
[email protected], www.hotel-delfin.si/ang/uvodna.
htm. Located right next to the marina, it’s not the most
modern hotel in town, but with a heated outdoor sea water
pool, a smaller indoor pool and its own beach it’s probably
the best option for those wanting to spend a significant
amount of their time in the water. The clientèle seems to
be a bit on the grey-haired side, so you shouldn’t have any
trouble finding some stiff competition on the hotel’s bocce
courts. Q 219 rooms (singles €45-64, doubles €76-114).
PTALBKC
Garni Keltika L-8, Jagodje 1, tel. 641 97 77, info@kel-
tika.si, www.keltika.si/en/index.php. Located in Jagodje,
a bit up the hill from the beach and San Simon resort, it’s a
comfortable enough place though a tad on the expensive side
for what you get - especially if you’re staying alone or for less
than two nights. An extra €5 will guarantee you a balcony, and
outside of the high season you can sometimes stay three
nights for the price of two during the week. Q (singles €3660, doubles €48-82). PTA6LW
San Simon H-8, Morova 6a, tel. 660 31 00, fax 641
84 02, [email protected], www.sansimon.si.
Owned by the same group that operates that massive St
Barnardin complex in nearby Portorož, the San Simon resort
is a comparatively modest affair with some 200 three- and
four-star rooms contained in two separate hotels and five
smaller buildings that are befitting of Izola’s more laid back
appeal. Aside from accommodation the complex’s green
sloping grounds include a restaurant, tennis courts, a private
beach, a newly built wellness centre and spa, and a rather
sad looking night club. Q PTLKD
Izola In Your Pocket
Stara Šola Korte Korte 74, tel. 642 11 14/031 375
Apartments
Apartments Keltika J-6, Kosovelova 31, tel. 641 97
77, fax 641 97 76, [email protected], www.keltika.si/en/.
One of the few accommodation options in the old part of town,
six separate apartments are contained in a single building
only steps away from St Mauer church. Recent renovations
have added all the modern amenities, but they are relatively
Spartan in terms of furnishings and if you plan on using either
the air conditioning or heating it’ll cost you an extra €8 per
day. When making a booking be sure to request the ‘Yellow
Apartment’ as it sleeps an extra person and also has a large
terrace with great views. Also note that check-in is across
town at the main hotel in Jagodje. Q PJA
Shark Apartments J-6/7, Drevored 1 Maja 3, tel. 031
600 998, [email protected]. You’ll find this café on your
left hand side amongst the copious foliage on 1st of May
Avenue, only a short walk from the central post office where
buses drop off. They can arrange rooms and apartments in
and around town, but it’s always a good idea to call ahead,
especially in the high season.
Turistična Agency Bele Skale J-6, Cankarjev Drevored
2, tel. 640 35 55, www.beleskale.si/index_eng.php. Can
arrange rooms and apartments around Izola, although be
aware that the former are often in short supply and there is a
strict 3 night minimum for the latter (even if you’re in town doing research for a guide book), so advanced booking is must.
They also offer various excursions as far afield as Venice, and
boat trips lasting from 3 hours to an entire day.
Fast Food Veni J-6/7, Postojnska 11, tel. 641 63 33,
[email protected], www.fastfoodveni.com. With
barely enough room for more than a couple people to step
inside, this take away place is so no-nonsense that drinks
are served via an ordinary vending machine. Churns out the
usual fast food fare of burgers, fries and pizza by the slice for
the lowest prices in town, but you get what you pay for. It’s
considerably more appetising with a pair of beer goggles on.
QOpen 08:30 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00.
Chinese
Jade I-8, Jagodje 2, tel. 640 15 88. The only Chinese
Where to eat
There are a number of great fish and seafood places, especially along the waterfront and old port areas, but given
the significant role that fishing has played in the town’s
history it’s perhaps a little surprising how many options
there are for those who find themselves in the mood for
something that originated on good old terra firma. Prices
are more or less the same at the majority of touristfriendly places (i.e. multi-lingual menus and set price multicourse meals), but there are a handful of no-nonsense
budget options if you’re feeling light in the wallet.
Fast Food
Bumerang J-6/7, Drevored 1 Maja 3, tel. 641 56 38.
The most centrally-located of the city’s few Kebap joints,
it must be a popular place since it had already run out of
spindled meat by the time we came by to enjoy one of our
artery-assaulting guilty pleasures. So instead we had to
settle for big cup of ice cream next door. QOpen 10:00
- 24:00. (€3-5.5).
restaurant in town is pretty much the only ethnic food option
around as well, depending on your definition. Located on the
corner of a busy crossroads in Jagodje, its faux Asian roof
helps it stand out from the modern shops and apartment
blocks nearby. The food itself is nothing extraordinary, but
then again, with no competition it doesn’t really have to be.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (€4-14). PJALS
International
Gostilna Korte Korte 44, tel. 642 02 00/41 60 78 63,
[email protected], www.gostilnakorte.si/. Locals
and tourists alike make regular pilgrimages up into the hills
between Izola and Portorož to dine at this traditional inn.
The menu has a mix of Slovene, Mediterranean and regional
Istrian dishes, and a great selection of local wines - a bottle
of which should be mandatory with any meal. It’s also not a
bad place to come for a drink if you need an excuse to get
out and enjoy the fresh air, but are not in the mood to eat.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Tue.
Gušt J-6/7, Drevored 1 Maja 5, tel. 041 67 59
53/041 65 03 33, [email protected]. One of several
places within a block of each other on Drevored 1. Maja
(or The 1st of May Avenue), Gušt always seems to have
the fewest empty seats on its long terrace, and for good
reason. Its thick menu has a bit of everything, but for
our money the brick oven pizzas are probably the best
in town. For those staying farther afield they also deliver
to most nearby areas. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (€4.5-19).
JABS
Istra J-6, Trg Republike 1, tel. 641 80 58. Right on the
main roundabout leading into the old part of town, this noisy
place is not quite as seafood-oriented as the strip of restaurants along the water, and is also slightly less expensive with
daily set menus starting at €7. As the name not-so-subtly
suggests, they specialise in Istrian cuisine, which is known
for its different varieties of truffles. It can get quite packed
at the weekend when there is often live music courtesy of
a costumed gentleman and his accordion. QOpen 08:00
- 24:00. (€4-13). E
Kamin Dobrava 1a, tel. 660 56 66, belvedere@
belvedere.si, www.belvedere.si/english/restavracijakamin.php. Located within the Hotel Belvedere on a bluff
overlooking the town, the views from its terrace are second
to none, although on days when the weather necessitates
eating inside the dining area is pleasant enough with a
central fireplace and high ceilings. As with most upmarket
hotels the food is a bit overpriced but generally excellent, especially the grilled dishes. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
PAILB
41
42
izola
Seafood
Parangal J-6, Sončno Nabrežje 20, tel. 641 74 40/041
67 38 46, [email protected]. Offers all kinds of
meats, pastas, pizzas and traditional Istrian cuisine, but don’t
be fooled - this is a place you come to for one reason only:
seafood. Not the cheapest option in town, but that shouldn’t
come as a surprise given its location and reputation. There’s
also a large courtyard which has something of a tropical flavour to it and is a good place for a drink with or without food.
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (€7-24). TJABS
Sidro J-6, Sončno nabrežje 24, tel. 641 47 11, n.godina@
Izola Cultural Centre
Mediterraneo I-7, Tomažičeva ulica 4A, tel. 641 74 44,
[email protected], www.mediterraneo.si. Located
inside the modern marina to the west of the city centre, this
new addition to Izola’s culinary scene is in a class of its own
when it comes to trendy upmarket dining - we don’t recall seeing much abstract contemporary art at other places around
town. The menu leans heavily on modern Italian cuisine with
seafood of course taking centre stage. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
Closed Tue. PAL
Pizza
Pizzeria Odeon J-7, Drevored 1 Maja 5, tel. 41 82 70
39. Connected to the city’s tiny but reputable single screen
cinema, this place is equal parts pizzeria and coffee house.
Its street side seating area is a great place to watch people
amble along the leafy boulevard, and one of the world’s
quaintest police stations is housed in a pink villa directly opposite. Our seafood pizza was a bit on the soggy side, but
came piled high with all kinds of salt-water creatures. QOpen
07:00 - 22:00. (€4-7). JABS
Coffee & Cakes
Café Alle Porte J-6, Koprska 1. At the conver-
gence of two windy back streets near the the fruit and
vegetable market on Etbina Kristana Trg, this picture
perfect little café is one of our favourite places to meet
for a coffee, and the softly-lit cosy interior is a great
place to lounge around in with a good book or a stack
of postcards during the colder months. QOpen 07:00
- 24:00. PJAB
Kavarna Galerija Zvon I-8, Morova 25b, tel. 641
60 43. We’re not sure about the gallery part, but it’s
easily the best coffee and cakes place in town. An elegant
baroque interior comes as a quite shock given the fact
that it’s located in among a strip of shops under a modern
apartment block. Cakes and other assorted sweets can
be purchased either by the slice or the kilo. QOpen 08:00
- 23:00. (cakes €12-14/kg). PABS
Slaščičarna Jadran J-6, Ribiška 14, tel. 641 84
85. Sandwiched between two fish restaurants right next
to the harbour, this old school cake shop is a great place
to grab dessert after your meal. We did just that, but had
trouble deciding what we wanted and ended up taking a
whole bag of sugary goodness back to our hotel to keep
in the mini bar for breakfast. PJS
siol.net. There’s no better place in Izola to dine - especially
at sunset - than in Sidro’s outdoor seating area, which is
actually across the street from the restaurant right on the
edge of the port. Although the menu features some borderline
exotic dishes, such as sea snails with polenta, we played it
safe and went with the seafood risotto, but from the look of
thing you can’t go wrong. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (€6.5-21).
PJABS
Nightlife
On the whole, Izola can’t really compete with nearby
Portorož when it comes to nightlife, but then again neither
can most other Slovene cities. However, the charming little
port town does boast some worthwhile options for after
dark entertainment, including an historic wine bar housed
in a renovated Venetian palace, the nautical-themed and
quintessentially kitschy Moby Dick Bar and, apropos of
nothing else, a world-renowned electronic music club that
intermittently hosts huge parties in the industrial district.
Bars & Pubs
Cantante Caffe I-8, Morova 25e. Located the commercial
centre just next to the San Simon complex, at night it attracts
relatively heavy traffic from among the resort’s guest - an
expedient option for those who don’t feel like walking more
than 50m or having any trouble finding the way back to their
rooms after one too many drinks. Inside you’ll find a modern
interior, decent selection of drinks and, more often than not,
speakers pumping out Latin music. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00,
Sun 09:00 - 24:00. PAB
Duro J-6, Trg Etbina Kristana 10. A small neighbourhood
bar where the early drinkers seem to settle in for a beer
not long after the sun comes up - not that there’s anything
wrong with that. It’s situated opposite the photogenically
diminutive Church of St Dominic, near the lively fruit and
vegetable market on Etbina Kristana Square. QOpen 07:00
- 23:00. J6B
Moby Dick Bar J-7, Dantejeva 4, tel. 51 64 65 65,
[email protected], www.mobydickisola.com. In
a town that’s essentially still an old fishing village at heart,
it’s fitting that the most popular night spot is named after
Melville’s famous whale, however there’s no guarantee that
it’ll be packed on any given night - especially out of season. In
addition to the nautical-themed paraphernalia plastered over
every square centimetre of wall and ceiling, you can find an
electronic dart board awkwardly positioned near the entrance
and a billiard table in the back. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sun
09:00 - 24:00. PJALB
44
izola
izola
What to see
Izola’s best sights are the narrow winding streets and
small squares that connect the waterfront promenade
and old fishing port areas with St Maurus Church and its
disproportionately large bell tower atop the city’s modest
hill - in other words, the city itself. At least one excursion
to see the vineyards and wine roads of the surrounding
countryside is also a must, as much for the wine as the
scenery fresh air.
Essential Izola
Besenghi degli Ughi Palace J-6, Gregorčičeva 76.
Considered by many to be the finest building in Izola, it is
sadly no longer open to the public and from the looks of
things now serves as a nightly hang out for the beer-swilling
local youth. Although if you can imagine it without the grafitti
and low hanging power lines it gives you some idea of the
city’s past glory.
Church of St Mary of Halieatum J-6, Manziolijev
Trg. The oldest church in Izola does its part to help make
Manziolijev Trg one of the most aesthetically pleasing
places in town. It’s not often open to the public, but if you
settle in for a drink at the nearby wine bar on any given
Saturday afternoon you’ll likely be able to catch a wedding
ceremony or two.
Manzioli Palace Manzioli Square 5, tel. 616 21 31,
[email protected]. Originally built in 1470 under the
direction of one of Izola’s first mayors, Tomasso Manzioli, the
recently renovated palace is one of the oldest buildings in
the city and home to both the offices of the local Italian selfgovernment and an incredibly charming wine bar. Frequently
held art exhibitions are a good excuse to see the beautifully
restored interior.
Royal Bar J-7, Pittonijeva 20, tel. 641 80 75. Of the
clutch of bars that can be found on Pittonijeva Ulica - a curving
100m street leading from Trg Republike to the city’s Cultural
House - Royal is the largest and by far most popular, although
truth be told nothing about it really screams out for attention.
Perhaps that’s why it packs in the locals who are just looking
for a cool place in the shade to enjoy a cold hassle-free beer.
QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. JA6B
The Wall Pub J-6, Ob Stolpu 12, tel. 641 42 73. Clearly
enjoying its position as the only drinking hole on the promenade along the harbour, come evening time you’ll be lucky if
you can find an empty table on its narrow street side seating
area. Don’t expect any fancy cocktails or trendy music, but for
a cold beer at sunset it can’t be beat. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00,
Sun 09:00 - 24:00. PJAB
Casinos
Casino Izola J-6, Trg Republike 4, tel. 640 02 22,
[email protected], www.casinoisola.com. It may
not be the most overwhelming casino in the world, but it’s
clean and comfortable, has a good selection of games, and
is right in the centre of town. It’s also open 24 hours and
doesn’t charge any admission fee. As an added incentive
there are usually some special offer cards floating around
nearby restaurants - the one we picked up at Gušt got us
€5 in credit and a free drink. Locals tend to rue the lack
of dress code and complain about tourists in their shorts
and sandals wandering in directly from the beach, but
we didn’t notice any on our visit. Q Open 00:00 - 24:00.
PJAL
Clubs
Ambasada Gavioli Industrijska 10, www.boomerangproduction.si/. Designed by Italian architect Gianni Gavioli,
who’s something of a legend in the clubbing world, this massive 1600 square metre complex can comfortably fit over
2500 people and is one of the region’s top destinations for
serious club goers. The building itself is a hodgepodge of
themes, materials and styles but maintains something of
a warm Mediterranean vibe throughout. Events are usually
only held once or twice a month at most, but could be worth
planning your trip around if you’re a big fan of electronic
music. PALE
Model Ship Museum Alme Vivode 3, tel. 640 10
51, [email protected]. The ground floor of the Parenzana
Museum is a space dedicated to the history of ship building
in Istria, an industry going all the way back to 1441. Aside
from its extensive collection of model ships the museum also
displays various maritime-related pieces along with historical
photographs and drawings. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00. Closed
Mon. Admission: €2.10/1.50 for adults/children.
Parenzana Museum J-6, Alme Vivoda 3, parenzana@
siol.net. In 1902 the Parenzana railway line was built connecting Trieste with Poreč (or Parenzo in Italian, hence the name)
123 kilometres to the south in present-day Croatia. Although
it was only in operation until 1935 it garnered quite a reputation for the beautiful scenery along the route, much of which
serves as a footpath and cycling road today. Dedicated to
preserving the history of the short-lived line, this tiny museum
opened its doors in 2000. It also houses an impressive model
train collection that is probably a must see attraction for
anyone interested in such things. It’s a good idea to ask for
directions and confirm its working hours at the tourist office,
since we had a bit of trouble tracking it down only to find that
it had closed early. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Admission: €2.10/1.50 for adults/children.
St Maurus Church J-6, Trg Svetega Mavra. Sitting atop
Izola’s modest high point is the parish church of the town’s
patron saint, who is also responsible for watching over the
Azores, shoemakers, coppersmiths and the disabled. The
present church was originally built by the Venetians in 1547,
with the bell tower, which bears some resemblance to its
larger predecessor in St Mark’s Square in Venice, coming
some forty years later. The church last saw major renovations at the end of the 19th century and still holds regular
services.
Wine Bars
Wine Bar Manzioli J-6, Manziolijev Trg 5, tel. 616 21
37, [email protected]. Operated by the Zaro family, who
have called Izola home for around 700 years, the bar occupies the ground floor of a former palace on the old town’s
most picturesque square. It’s one of our favourite spots
on the entire coast for a drink, and the best place in Izola
to sample quality local wines. If you’re there on a Saturday
afternoon you’re also likely to catch at least one wedding
ceremony at the church opposite. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00.
JAB
The Ugo Family Plaque J-6, Gasilska ulica. Well above
The sea is calling
Manzioli Palace
ground level on a tiny side street not far from Café Alle Porte,
you can find the family plate of the once powerful Ugo family,
who originally installed it back in 1450. After seeing several
large photographs and reading a bit about its history at the
tourist office, we found it slightly underwhelming in real life,
especially given the fact that it clings to the wall of a newly
renovated building, but we’ll admit that when we stumbled
upon it quite by mistake one morning it felt like winning some
kind of sightseeing scavenger hunt.
45
50
Street register
Portorož
Belokriška cesta B/C2, C/D3
Cesta rabskih žrtev A/B2
Cvetna pot D3
Fizine C3
K sončni poti C2
Ladjedelniška reber A/B3
Lepa cesta B/C2
Letoviška pot D/E3
Mirni kot D3
Med vrtovi C/D3
Obala B/C/D/E3, E4
Pod anteno B/C2
Pot pomorščakov B/C3
Prečna pot D3
Senčna pot E3/4, F4
Solinska pot C3
Sončna pot C2/3
Stara cesta D/E3
Stopniška pot D3
Trg prekomorskih brigad D3
Vesna E4
Vilfanova ulica B/C2
Zatišje E3
Izola
Koper
Agrarne reformeL/M-11
Ankaranska
N-12
Bazoviška M-9, M-10
Belveder
K-10, L-9
Bošadraga
M-10
Božičeva
M-11
Brkinska
N-10
Budičinova
L-10
Cankarjeva
M/N-10
Čevljarska
L-10, L-11
DellavallejevaM-9, M-10
Dijaška
M-10
Dimnikarska
L/M-11
FerrarskaM/N-12, N-10-11
Gallusova M-10,M-11
Garibaldijeva L-10, L-11
Gasilska
N-10
Gimnazijski trg
M-11
Glagoljaška
L-9, L-10
Goriška
M/N-10
Gortanov trg
L-11
Grudnova
M-11
Izolska vrata M-9, M-10
Kamnita
M-11
Kettejeva
L-10
Kidričeva
K/L-10
Kmečka
M-11
Kolaričeva
L-10
Kolarska
M-11
Kolodvorska
M-12
Konzulska
M-10
Kopališko nabrežjeK/L-9
Kosovelov trg
M-11
Kreljeva
M-10
Krpanova
M/N-11
Kumarjeva M-10,M-11
Levja
N-10
Ljubljanska
M-12
Marušičeva
M-11
Mirenska
M/N-10
Mladinska
L-9, L-10
Muzejski trg L-9, L-10
Mužčev trg
M-11
Naldinijeva
L-11
Obzidna
M-11
Opekarska
M/N-10
Osvobodilne fronte L/M-11
Ozka
L-11
Petronijeva M-9, M-10
Pobegova
M-11
Prešernov trg
L-11
Pri velikih vratih
L-11
Pristaniška
K/L-11
Repičeva
L-11
Resslova
K/L-10
Ribiški trg
M-9, M-10
Rižanska
L-11
Solinska
L-11
Soška
M-11
Stara
M-10
Titov trg
L/M-10
Tominčeva
L/M-11
Tovarniška
M-11
Trg Brolo
M-10
Trubarjeva
L/M-10
Tumova
L-11
Ukmarjev trg
K-10
Ulica talcev
M-11
Valvasorjeva L-10, L-11
Verdijeva
L-9, L-10
Vergerjev trg L-9, L-10
Vlačičeva
L-11
Vojkovo nabrežje N-10
Vrtna
M-11
Zadružna
M-11
Zlatičeva
M-10,M-11
Zore Perello-GodinaL-12
Župančičeva L-10, L-11
Alietova
J-6
Bazoviška
J-7
Brkinska
J-6
Cankarjev drevored
J-5, J-6
Cesta v Jagodje H/I-8
Dantejeva
I/J-7
Drevored 1.maja J-6, J-7
Elvire Vatovec
J-7
Ferda Bidovca J-7, J-8
Goriška
J-6
Gortanova
J-6
Gregorčičeva
J-6
Ilirska
I-8
Istrska vrata
I/J-6
IX. Korpusa
J-7, J-8
Jagodje
H-7, H-8
Južna
I/J-8
Kajuhova
J-7
Kažipotna
J-6
Kettejeva
I/J-7
Kopališka
I/J-5, I-6
Koprska
J-6
Kosova
J-7
Kosovelova
J-6
Kraška
J-6, J-7
Leninova
J-7
Levstikova
J-5
Livade
J-7, J-8, I-8
Mladinska
I-8
Morova
H/I-8
Na griču
I-8
Na terasah
H-8
Nazorjeva
I/J-7
Obrtna
J-8
Casino Carnevale
38
44
Casino Izola
Church of St Mary of
Halieatum
45
Darila, souvenir shop25
Delfin
29, 40
Dijaški in študentski
dom
35
Doner Kebab
20
Duro
42
E Kavarna @ Pina
36
Europcar Slovenija
7
Fast Food Veni
41
Fiesa
28
Figarola & Gregory 20
Florist's shop Orhidea
25
Fontana
29
Forma Viva
24
Galeb
30
Galerija Meduza
38
Garni hotel Pristan 35
Garni Keltika
40
Garni Maki
16
Garni Strasek
18
Gostilna Korte
41
Grand Casino Portoroz
23
Grand Hotel Bernardin
14
Grand Hotel Metropol14
Grand Hotel Portorož 14
Gušt
41
Hairdresser Tanja
26
Histrion
14
Holy Church of our Lady
of the Rosary
24
Intersport Portorož 26
Istra
41
Istriana - Tourist Service
Portorož
24
Istrska klet Slavček 36
Ivo
30
Jade
41
Kamin
41
Kavarna Galerija Zvon42
Kavarna Kapitanija 38
Kempinski Palace
Portorož
14
Kino Otok
39
Klet Cantina
31
Koper Regional Museum
38
La Storia Trattoria 36
Latino Bar
23
Lido
23
Lord Byron
38
Lucija
16
Majestic
20
Manta
36
Manzioli Palace
45
Marina
40
14
Marita
Marko
16
Max
28
Max Mara Kempinski25
Mercator Center Koper
38
Mestno Kopališče
Koper
38
Mignon
22
Miracolo di Mare
28
Mirna
16
Moby Dick Bar
42
Model Ship Museum 45
Modiana
25
Muzejska Galerija
38
Neptun
16
News Café
20
NLB - Nova Ljubljanska banka 26
O!bala Board shop 26
Okrepčevalnica - Fast
food
36
Okrepčevalnica Pr
Bepča
36
Ondina
20
Paco Pizzeria
22
Papa Chico
22
Paprika
23
Parangal
42
Parenzana Museum 45
Pavel
30
Penzion Forma Viva 18
Piran
28
Pirat
30
Pizzeria Atrij
36
Pizzeria Odeon
42
Pizzeria Park
36
Pizzeria Tartini
31
Pizzerija Pri Vodnjaku 36
Planet Pub Heineken 23
Playa
23
Portafortuna
32
Post office Lucija
26
Post office Portorož 26
Pub Kapelca
26
Ribja Kantina
20
Riva
30
Riviera
16, 23
Royal Bar
44
Roža
16
Rustika
22
Salon Trendy
26
San Lorenzo
20
San Simon
40
Santa Lucia
22
Oljčna
I-8
Osojna
H-8
Partizanska
J-7
Pittonijeva
J-6
Plenčičeva
J-6
Pod vinogradi
H-8
Premrlova
J-6
Proletarskih brigadH/I-8
Razgled
H-8
Rožna
H-8
Salvadora Allendeja H-8
Senčna
I-8
Smrekarjeva
J-6
Sončno nabrežje
J-6
Strma pot
H-8
Šolska
J-6
Tartinijeva
J-5, J-6
Tomažičeva
I-7
Tovarniška
J-6
Ulica OF
J-7
Ulica oktobrske revolucije
I/J-7, I-8
Ulica Sv. Petra
J-5
Ulica Svobode
J-6
V. Pregavor
J-8
Veluščkova
J-7
Verdijeva
I/J-6
Vrtača
H-8
Vrtna
I-8
Zadružna
I-8
Zaprta
J-8
Zatišje
H-8
Zelena
J-8
Zvonimira Miloša
J-8
inyourpocket.com
Index
Adonis
23
7
Aerodrom Portoroz
Alaya Cocktail Bar 23
Alibi B11/B14
28
Alibi T60
28
Altana
29
Ambasada Gavioli 44
Apartments Ananina 18
Apartments Diana
Belac
18
Apartments Keltika 40
Apollo
14
Aquapark hotel
Žusterna
35
Avantcar d.o.o.
- National Rent a car 7
Avditorij Portorož
Cultural Center
24
Banka Koper
26
Barbara
16
Barbara Fiesa
28
Bar Bonaco
36
Batana
31
Beautique Portorož 25
Belvedere
40
Besenghi degli Ughi
Palace
45
Bikers Speed Pub 36
BIO
35
Botique Napoleon 25
Bumerang
40
Cacao
22, 26
Café Alle Porte
42
Café Calypso
38
Café Central
22
Café Donat
30
Café Teater
30
Caffe Bar Chris
30
Cantante Caffe
42
Sečovlje Saline Nature
Park
24
Shark Apartments 40
Sidro
42
Skipper
36
Slaščičarna Jadran 42
Slovenija
16
Souvenir
26
Stara Oljka
20
Stara Šola Korte
40
Staro Sidro
22
St Maurus Church 45
Studio La Perla
25
Sun Tours Portorž
7
Tartini
28
Tartini Café
30
Taxi Denis Maglica
7
Taxi Portorož
7
Taxi Štefan
7
That's Slovenia
25
The Ugo Family Plaque
45
The Wall Pub
44
Tivoli
23
Tourist information 39
Trgovina Skinny
25
Turistična Agency Bele Skale
40
Turist Information
Centre Koper
33
Unikat Art & hobby 25
Val
29
Verdi
30
Vile Park Bernardin 16
Villa Lili
18
Villa Marina
16
Villa Saline
18
Vodišek
35
Wine Bar Manzioli 44

portorož - visitslovenia.net

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