for under 100 - Tourisme Aquitaine

Transcription

GETTING AWAY
ON A HABITABLE BOAT
TOP TIPS
ORIGINAL
ACCOMMODATION
FOR UNDER
100 € ALONG THE CANAL
DE GARONNE
GETAWAYS
IN THE SHOES OF
A SHEPHERD,
OF AN OYSTER FARMER,…
© Hervé Lefebvre
GUEST
A fourth generation restaurateur, Nicolas Magie comes from
Cenon, near Bordeaux. After learning his trade in the kitchens
of the Rouzic, Michel Gautier’s famed restaurant, he moved on
to work at the Pavillon des Boulevards with Denis Franc and
then the Miramar in Biarritz. It was in the Basque country that he
met his wife, with whom he opened
his own restaurant in Cenon,
Have you got a good recipe to
after working in Paris at the
start the holidays?
Crillon with Christian Constant.
Ideal for going mushroom hunting with
He ended up back where it all
my father, I like a sandwich made with
began! Clearly influenced by his
cornbread with Espelette pepper from
childhood and local ingredients,
the Constanti bakery in Oloron-Saintehis cuisine was awarded a star
Marie, with Louis Ospital sliced meat,
Rollet-gérard cheese and a bottle of wine
in the 2004 Michelin Guide.
from the Domaine de Valmengaux. For a
After 13 years at the helm, in
family holiday, without hesitation I’d say
September 2012, he took over
a barbecue with a piece of pork Lepoa
from Michel Portos at the Saintand a piece of skirt steak, served with
James restaurant in Bouliac.
vegetables that are also grilled using
charcoal.
Nicolas Magie:
The Aquitaine I love.
One of your favourite walks?
In the autumn and winter, I go to Ascain in
the Basque country, towards the Ibardin
col. In the spring and summer, I go to the
Haute Lande, towards Hostens and SaintSymphorien. I love nature, it brings me
calm and fullness.
Black truffles from the Perigord region! They are my passion.
I can’t resist a piece of toast with half-salted butter and
grated truffles. I also enjoy Ibaiona ham with fat that is rich
in flavours, and resists well to cooking or pigeon that has
been fed only whole grain, making it incredibly tender, with a
powerful taste, melting in your mouth.
© Maison Eguiazabal
The wine bar
Maison Eguiazabal,
in Hendaye. I
always feel at
home there, with
its very impressive
wine menu. I love
Vivien Durand’s cuisine, so fresh and
spontaneous, and made with regional
ingredients.
© Thinkstock
Do you know a
g o o d p l a ce to
have lunch?
Can you name two or three Aquitaine products that you
particularly enjoy?
… to sleep? Definitely the Saint-James!
© laffargue
© Hervé Lefebvre
With its view of
B o rd e a u x , i t i s
l i ke a p a t c h o f
countryside in the
heart of the city, and
it introduces you
to the world
of Jean
Nouvel.
2
n Restaurant le Bonheur du Palais
74 rue Paul Louis Lande
33000 Bordeaux
Tél. : +33 (0)5 56 94 38 63
© Thinkstock
… and for dinner? Le Bonheur du
Palais, in Bordeaux: It’s the best Chinese
restaurant in France. André and Tommy
Shan use only local, French ingredients,
which they cook in the Sichan style.
n Hôtel restaurant le Saint James
3 Place Camille Hostein
33270 Bouliac
Tél. : +33 (0)5 57 97 06 00
www.saintjames-bouliac.com
Which market is worth a look around?
The market in Libourne, where I find most of
my suppliers, such as the fish merchant gilles
Perrier, or the cheese-maker Rollet-gérard,
who only selects cheese made with raw milk.
I also go to Fargues-Saint-Hilaire for the butcher
Sepeau, or fruits and vegetables at Fruimandise.
Will you ever feel like
leaving Aquitaine?
I am always wearing my Lafargue
belt from Saint-Jean-de-Luz.
n Restaurant « The wine bar Maison
Eguiazabal »
3 route de Béhobie
64700 Hendaye
Tél. : +33 (0)5 59 20 67 09
www.eguiazabal.com
n Maison Louis Ospital
47, rue Jean Lissar
64240 Hasparren
Tél. : +33 (0)5 59 29 64 41
www.louis-ospital.com
n Marché couvert de Libourne
1 rue Montesquieu
33500 Libourne
Ouvert du mardi au dimanche
de 6h00 à 13h00.
n Boucherie Sepeau
33 avenue de l’Entre-deux-Mers
33370 Fargues-saint-Hilaire
n Primeur Fruimandise
33 avenue de l’Entre-deux-Mers
33370 Fargues-saint-Hilaire
n Boulangerie Constanti
Boulevard des Pyrenees
64400 Oloron-sainte-Marie
n Domaine de Valmengaux
8 Petit Gontey
33330 Saint-Emilion
Tél. : +33 (0)5 57 74 48 92
www.valmengaux.com
FROM VINEyARDS
TO CHâTEAUx
32
A UNIqUE HOLIDAy
IN CHARMINg
VILLAgES
SPORTS
gET-AWAyS
© Le Doaré
6
© Reiz Laurent / CRTA
© Béguerie Alain / CRTA
18
Edito
Oceanic barrier beaches, valleys and landscapes carved out by the rivers and gorges from the Pyrenees,
the largest estuary in Europe, forest stretching as far as the eye can see, high mountains… Where can you find such a wide
variety of landscapes, just 3 hours from Paris by TgV? In Aquitaine!
Once you arrive, the adventure is just beginning! Here, you can take part in the grape-harvest in one of the region’s 15
vineyards, navigate the rivers and canals in a habitable boat or barge, take part in sporting activities including surfing, hiking
or golf, follow the migration of a herd of sheep with a shepherd or get on your bike to discover the Vélodyssée®, a new bike
path which follows the Atlantic coast between sand dunes and pine forests… Read this magazine to discover a selection of
the many activities available throughout the year in Aquitaine. And to discover great things to do in the region, check out the
website www.tourisme-aquitaine.fr and don’t forget to visit our Tourisme d’Aquitaine Facebook page!
LEISURE
HILDReN
4 CVélodyssée®,
the family adventure
12 eCO-TOURISM
Green sensations in the nature parks of
Aquitaine
15 GeTTING AWAYS
Relax on a habitable boat
18 eSCAPe
A unique holiday in charming villages
21 URBAN TOURISM
The museums will introduce you
in the towns in Aquitaine
SHOPPING
24 LOCAL PRODUCTS
ACCOMMODATION
14 eCO-TOURISM
Nature holigays
20 UNIQUe AND CHeAP
Original accommodation under 100 €
PLUS
27 GeTAWAYS
UeST
2 GNicolas
Magie
30 WeLL-BeING
25 ReCIPeS
32 FITNeSS
34 MYSTeRY QUIZ
Sharing the professions of Aquitaine
Soothing retreats on the campsites
Sports get-aways in Aquitaine
PORTFOLIO
ISCOVeRY
6 DFrom
vineyards to châteaux
tells us about his Aquitaine
Traditional dishes from the region
How well do you know
Aquitaine?
35 MAP OF AQUITAINe
Magazine published by the Aquitaine Regional
Tourist Board: 4/5 Place Jean Jaurès - 33074
BORDEAUX CEDEX - France ; Tél. : +33(0)5 56 01 70 00
Fax : +33(0)5 56 01 70 07. Web : tourisme-aquitaine.fr.
Design and production: Citron Pressé - Editor: SLS
Conseil-Illustrations:ChristineROUSSEY-Printing:Korus.
Document printed on certified PEFC paper from
sustainably managed forests, under control
n°PEFC/10-31-1118-Page20:indicativepricesin2013.
3
LEISURE ACTIvITIES FOR kIDS
Withfreshmemoriesfromhisprehistoricholiday,Lucasconvincedhis
parentstogobacktoAquitaine,thistimetodiscoverarouteforbicycle
tourists,inauguratedinJune2012calledtheVélodyssée®.Getonyour
bike,andfollowhimfromthePointedeGravesinHendaye,with
theAtlanticOceanasabackdrop.
Vélodyssée ,
®
ThE fAmIlY AdvENTurE
AlONG ThE AquITAINE cOAST
Wakeboard in Lacanau
Next, we started our trip along the
Vélodyssée, the cycling path is easy to identify with the logo present on the sign posts.
After 8 kilometres, we made a first stop in
Soulac-sur-Mer, the oldest seaside resort
in the Médoc region. At the tourism office,
they gave me a game called “on the trail of
Robin” to discover the town while having
fun. We visited the Notre-Dame de la Fin des
Terres basilica, one of the stops on the road
to Santiago de Compostella, and we admired
the pink brick villas built over a century ago.
love riding my bike. For Christmas,
my parents got me a really nice
one, and when we found out that
France’s longest cycling route had
just been opened, we decided to go back
to Aquitaine to try part of the itinerary.
From Brittany to the Basque country, it is
over 1200 kilometres in length, which is
a bit much for my tiny legs!
I loved arriving by ferry in Verdon-surMer, it was like going on a cruise. In the
distance, we saw a magnificent lighthouse, that of Cordouan. The next day,
we climbed the 311 steps to reach the
lantern!
Games and tours in the Bay of
Arcachon
After Lège-Cap-Ferret, the Vélodyssée
runs along an old railway line, but pedalling is easy since it is completely flat.
And it’s a good job too, because I was in
a hurry to get to Gujan-Mestras to see
the animals in the Parc de la Coccinelle
and to go down the slides at Aqualand.
After, I went to the Maison de l’Huître
with my parents, where we learned all
there is to know about growing oysters
with films and interactive exhibits.
© Thinkstock
I
After a picnic at the beach, we continued
our way through the pine-wood towards
Lacanau, a Famille Plus resort. Amongst all
the activities listed in my “Little Explorer
Book”, I chose an initiation course to wakeboard at Lacanau lake. It’s brilliant sliding
across the water like a water-skier, but using
a surf board!
The Vélodyssée® in Aquitaine represents:
4
© C. Maufroid / CRTA
•20stagesofbetween5and31kilometresbetweenVerdon-sur-Merand
Hendaye;
•400kilometresintotal;
•3departmentscrossed:Gironde,LandesandPyrenees-Atlantiques.
© SIBA - B.RUIZ
After going around Arcachon
Bay, the Vélodyssée allows you to
discover the charms of the Landes
coast.
Treasure hunts in Mimizan and
Seignosse
© Laurent Ressicaud
We continued our journey in the Landes
forest until we got to Biscarrosse. While
Mum was sunbathing on the beach, I took
a surfing lesson, the waves were perfect.
The next day, after a long ride, we arrived
in Mimizan, a Kid resort. There, I took
part in a treasure hunt called “Let’s take
a walk in the forest” with other children:
with a notebook and compass, we looked
for treasure hidden in the forest. I had a
lot of fun, and made lots of friends.
Then we got back on our bikes, and
headed towards Contis and the river that
we travelled down on a canoe, I felt like
an explorer! We saw a kingfisher and a
grey heron, but I didn’t see any otters or
European minks, which are protected
species, that is why the site is listed as
Natura 2000.
My parents chose to stay a few days in
Seignosse, which is another Famille Plus
resort. With a guide from the National
Forest Office, we saw a demonstration
of pine-tapping (gathering of resin),
then we visited the town by taking part
in a modern treasure hunt, called “geocaching”. From the market place to the
beach, without forgetting the skating park
and the largest water park in the Landes,
Atlantic Park, we saw all there was to see
in Seignosse.
© Cité de l’Océan Biarritz
The Cité de l’Ocean in Biarritz.
At the Musée Aquarium d’Arcachon, we
saw all of the species that can be found
in the Bay of Arcachon: Fish, seashells,
birds, mammals…
After this getaway in the Bay of Arcachon,
we got back on the official Vélodyssée
route at the Dune du Pilat. From the top,
the view is extraordinary with the ocean
on one side, and the pine forest on the
other. We laughed so hard when we were
running down the sand dune!
descending to the depths of Capbreton
aboard a bathyscaphe. Going back up,
we had reached our final stop along the
Vélodyssée: Hendaye, at the Spanish
border. There, we took a last trip on a sea
kayak along the Basque coast.»
Stand up paddle and kayak along
the Basque coast
After a short bike ride, we arrived in the
Basque country after crossing the Adour
river in Bayonne. After wakeboarding
and surfing, I tried stand up paddle at La
Barre beach in Anglet, the Vélodyssée
passes very close to it. At first it isn’t easy
keeping your balance but all you have to
do is use the oar to float across the water.
Travelling along the Basque coast, we
arrived at the Musée de la Mer in Biarritz,
which has fish from all over the world
in beautiful aquariums. The best part
is seeing the seals having a meal. From
there, it only took a few minutes to get
to Planète musée chocolat. I followed the
kids trail called “On the trail of Quetzaco”,
which teaches the different stages in
making chocolate by hand. Then we
stopped off at the Cité de l’Océan, where
a 3D animation allows you to simulate
Atlantic Park
in Seignosse.
n Vélodyssée® : www.lavelodyssee.com
n Soulac-sur-Mer : www.soulac.com
n Lacanau kite & wake center :
www.lacanaukite-wakecenter.com
n Maison de l’Huître à Gujan-Mestras :
www.maisondelhuitre.fr
n Dune du Pilat : www.ladunedupilat.com
n Biscarrosse : www.biscarrosse.com
n Mimizan : www.mimizan-tourisme.com
n Courant de Contis :
www.pays-cote-argent.com
n Atlantic Park :
www.seignosse.com/atlantic-park.html
n Planète musée chocolat :
www.planetemuseeduchocolat.com
n Musée de la mer et cité de l’Océan à
Biarritz : www.biarritzocean.com
n Kayak à Hendaye :
www.hendaye-tourisme.fr
5
by Alain Béguerie
PORTFoLIo
As the culminating point of the Sauternais and
overlooking the Ciron valley, the château d’yquem is
the first superior first vintage in Sauternes. Listed as
a historic monument in 2003 for its decor and frescos,
the château forms a quadrilateral shape around a
large courtyard which has a massive well in its centre.
To have the chance to enter the warehouse and
taste one of the yquem vintages, you must ask at the
Langon Tourism Office, which organizes “Sauternes
Prestige” tours, on certain days of each year.
AlainBéguerie,aphotographer,lives
andworksinBordeaux.Hecollaborates
withvariouspublishersonverydifferent
subjectssuchasrugby,architectural
heritage,cuisine,paintingandhuman
activityingeneral.Inhisportfolio,he
highlightstheabundanceofvineyards
inAquitaine,whichhavebeengrownby
passionatewine-makerswhoinviteyou
todiscovertheirfoodandculturewithin
theirchâteaux,ofwhichtheyareso
proud.
It is rare to find a wine-making property
that still makes their own barrels. Still
filling the warehouse with the sound of
his hammer, the barrel-maker at château
Margaux – the first fine wine to obtain the
AOC Margaux appellation – makes three
barrels per day. These barrels are the living
symbol of a culture which still places man
at its centre, like the barrel-maker who
evolves in his workshop.
From vineyards
to châteaux
With an incredibly rich terroir, the Blayais vineyard
covers 6000 hectares bordering the gironde region,
the largest estuary in Europe. “Apéro-barriques’’ at
château Lavenceau, “Forme et Ferme” day at the
domaine Tout l’y Faut or “Festibalades” by Blaye Côtes
de Bordeaux: The wine-makers are happy to welcome
you to their family properties and offer you a fun time
learning about and discovering their wine.
6
by Alain Béguerie
PORTFoLIo
Present in Aquitaine’s five departments, vines are the key to so many
discoveries. In the Lot-et-garonne, take a hot air balloon ride over the
Pays de Duras and take in the magnificent landscapes with valleys and
hills, vines and orchards, cultivated fields and meadows. Don’t forget
to see the medieval castle in Duras, which overlooks the Maison des
vins de Duras and the vineyard.
7
by Alain Béguerie
PORTFoLIo
A jewel in the prestigious
Monbazillac vineyard in “Purple”
Perigord, the château de
Monbazillac has its four circular
towers erected on a mound
overlooking the Dordogne valley
and Bergerac. Built during the 16th
century, it has unique architecture,
a combination of medieval defence
systems and elegance from the
Renaissance. After taking this mustsee tour along the Bergerac wine
route, you’ll be offered a tasting of
Monbazillac.
In Eugénie-les-Bains in the Landes, Michel guérard, a
renowned chef at Les Prés d’Eugénie restaurant, will
combine cuisine and fitness. It is at the Domaine du château
de Bachen, listed on the additional inventory of historical
monuments with around 20 hectares of vines in the Tursan
appellation, that he makes his batches. Erected on a
plateau overlooking the Adour river, the château de Bachen
comprises a dwelling which, with its high roof, resembles the
architecture of Béarn.
At the gateway to Bordeaux on the right bank of the
garonne, Latresne has 40 hectares of vines. The
Château de Malherbes is the principal estate in the
municipality of Entre-Deux-Mers, with a 13 hectare
vineyard overlooking Bordeaux, which benefits from
exceptional exposure. It was erected at the end of the
14th century by a knight returning from the Crusades,
guilhem of Malherbes.
8
by Alain Béguerie
PORTFoLIo
Located in the same area as Madiran and close to
Jurançon, the Pacherenc-du-Vic-Bilh is an appellation
which produces dry white wine, mellow wine as well
as sweet wine: to gather the ripened grapes – from a
fourth sorting –, the wine-makers wait for the first day of
winter. This late harvest produces the well-known winter
Pacherenc, a confidential and very sought-after product,
which goes perfectly with foie gras.
9
by Alain Béguerie
PORTFoLIo
On a prestigious terroir, the Château
d’Arsac harmoniously combines
tradition and modernity. Its owner,
Philippe Raoux, renovated the buildings
in a resolutely contemporary style:
steel, wood, glass roof, wine warehouse
in stainless steel and raised in klein
blue… After having visited the “garden
of Sculptures”, an impressive collection
of art pieces, head to the Winery, a wine
tourism area where you’ll discover your
“signe œnologique ®” (oenological
sign), take part in tasting sessions or
explore the vineyard.
The Jurisdiction of Saint-Emilion has been listed on Unesco’s World
Heritage list thanks to its cultural landscapes since 1999. From the
tower of the château du Roy or the promontory at the foot of the
monolith church’s bell tower, admire the old medieval town with its
old steep streets and stone mansions. In the distance, an ocean of
vines will remind you that you are in one of the world’s most famous
vineyards.
10
by Alain Béguerie
PORTFoLIo
Set up in the hills of the Basque country by the monks of Roncevaux
during the 12th century, the vineyard of Irouléguy, the smallest AOC in
France, extends across 240 hectares of vines. At the foot of the Pyrenees
and next to the mountains of Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, it is laid out on
levels across sloped terrain, in the heart of landscapes of unrivalled
beauty. Come and meet wine-makers who are passionate about their
terroir, they’ll let you visit their wine warehouse and taste their wine.
11
AlongtheLeyreonacanoeoramongstthetrees
oftheLandesdeGascogneregionalnaturepark,
byfootorbyrailbikeinthePérigordLimousin
regionalnaturepark,paraglidinginthePyrenees
nationalpark,takethetimetodiscoverthese
protectedareaswithdiverselandscapes.
ECO-TOURISM
Green sensations
in the nature parks of
Aquitaine
Nature canoe
on the Leyre
www.canoesurlaleyre.com
2
GI RO N D e
Climb…
and sleep in the trees
Committed to environmentally-friendly
tourism near the Landes de Gascogne
regional nature park, Manu Obry, a
guide and leisure organizer, awaits you
© Brochard Jean-Jacques / CRTA
A true connection between the pine forest
and the Bay of Arcachon, the Leyre runs
through the Landes de Gascogne regional
nature park across 135 kilometres. The
best way to discover this wild river is in a
canoe, whether for a few hours or a hike
of several days. Embark from one of the
park’s three bases, the gîte de Saugnac, the
centre du Graoux in Belin-Beliet or the
Maison de la Nature du Bassin d’Arcachon
at Le Teich. Under the archway of plants
in this gallery forest, listen to the sound
of birds singing and observe this natural
environment’s inhabitants: a kingfisher
taking flight, then further on a heron
fishing… Want to find out more about
this fascinating place? Book your place on
a 10-seater canoe, which is particularly
stable and safe. While your guide steers
the boat, he will tell you the history of the
Leyre and its landscapes.
Two regional nature parks in Aquitaine…
“Aregionalnatureparkisaninhabitedruralarea,recognizedonanationallevelforits
heritageandlandscapes,whichisorganizedaroundasustainabledevelopmentplan,
foundedontheprotectionandpromotionofitsheritage.”
Aquitainehastwosuchparks,thatoftheLandesdeGascognewhichisspreadacross
thedepartmentsoftheLandesandGironde,andthatofPérigordLimousinwhich
stretchesfromnorthernDordognetosouthernHaute-Vienne.Ecotourismoffersthe
keystothesepreservedareas,wherealltheplayersensurethatthebalancebetween
manandnatureremainsharmonious.
n www.parc-landes-de-gascogne.fr n www.parc-naturel-perigord-limousin.fr/
12
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in Balizac, between Bazas and Hostens.
Since 2004, he has been taking people
into the forest to see magnificent trees
that you can safely climb.
The adventure starts with an initiation
session: Prepare your equipment, learn
how to tie knots and set up your ropes
to safely move from branch to branch.
Move around the tree tops, observe and
discover the tree-filled landscapes of
the Park. Then, prolong the experience
by spending a night in a bivouac, with a
hammock set up in the tree of your choice.
Rocked to sleep by the night air, with the
rustling of the leaves, you’ll leave the next
day with your head full of memories!
Accro d’Aventures – Manu Obry
Pinot ouest – 33730 Balizac
Tél. : +33 (0)6 80 61 53 63
www.accro-aventures33.com
© PNR des landes de gascogne
L AND e S
© Photo-Léonard / OT Thiviers
1
4
DORDO G N e
Paragliding
in the Aspe valley
D O RD O GN e
In the Pyrenees national park, the
Aspe valley offers many hiking trails, a
nationally-renowned paragliding spot:
the Accous spot. Just a few steps with
your qualified instructor and you’ll
be in the air for a two-person flight
that will show you what it is like to fly.
Guided hike in
the country of forges
and châteaux
Rail bike
in “Green” Perigord
40 kilometres north of Périgueux,
between Thiviers and Excideuil, the
Corgnac-sur-l’Isle station is no longer
expecting passengers on this section
of the old rail line between Brive and
Angoulême. Today, you can get on board
a strange looking wagon with pedals, to
get between Thiviers or Saint-Germaindes-Prés.
Between small valleys and rivers, these
two 11 kilometres lines are full of charm,
with bridges, viaducts, tunnels and oldfashioned stations where old abandoned
wagons watch you pass by. Make sure you
save your strength, the track is not as flat
as you might imagine. Thankfully, you’ll
get a welcome break at each road crossing:
It is your job to lift up the barriers! Once
you get to Thiviers or Saint-Germaindes-Prés station, take a few moments at
the drinks stand while your small wagon
is turned around to head back to Corgnac.
Want to discover the Périgord-Limousin
regional nature park at your own pace? Five
foot paths with digital audio and videoguides await you, talking about the forest,
legends, the châteaux, the wildlife… At the
far south side of the park near Nontron
for example, discover the Mareuillais.
After having rented your Randio’guide at
the Tourism Office, head to the starting
point of the trail, at the Beaurecueil horse
riding centre in Saint-Sulpice-de-Mareuil.
Thanks to the built-in GPS system, watch
the videos with commentary at each point
of interest: they speak of the truffle oaks,
the poplar plantation or the history of the
château de la Vergne, which overlooks the
valley. Following this fun and interactive
nine kilometre stroll, you’ll know all there
is to know about the Nizonne valley!
Chemin de fer du Périgord Vert
24800 Corgnac-sur-l’Isle
Tél. : +33 (0)5 53 52 42 93
www.veloraildefrance.com/velorail24
Relax, and admire the Aspe valley beneath
your feet, which follows the gorge to the
col of Somport and leads the pilgrims
towards Santiago de Compostella. You’ll
notice the green colours of the forests and
pastures and the red of the sandstone. But
beware, you’ll soon need to land so listen
carefully to instructions and set the glider
down softly after spending a time you’ll
never forget.
Office de tourisme de la vallée d’Aspe
Place Sarraillé – 64490 Bedous
Tél. : +33 (0)5 59 34 57 57
Location Randio’guide : 4 euros par
appareil et par balade.
Office de tourisme de Nontron
Avenue du Général Leclerc
24300 Nontron
Tél. : +33 (0)5 53 56 25 50
P YRe N e e S - AT LA N T IQUeS
© Brochard Jean-Jacques / CRTA
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4
5
2
3
© Vélorail du Chemin de Fer Touristique du Périgord Vert
© Accro d’aventure
© C. Molitor
ECO-TOURISM
…and a national park!
Liketheotherninenationalparks,thePyreneesnationalparkpertainstothecultural
identityofFrance,inthesamewayasthemostprestigiousculturalfacilities.InAquitaine,
itincludestheupperpartoftheAspeandOssauvalleys.Betweentheheartofthepark,
afragileandprotectednaturaljewel,andthepartnershipzone(whichincludesthe
municipalitiesclosetotheheart),withremarkableareaswhichrequiresustainable
development,itispossibletotakepartinmanyactivities:hikesalongmarked-outpaths
(includingtheGR10),guidedwalkstodiscoverthepark’sbiodiversity,thehistoryand
traditionsofthevalleysorpastorallife,fishinginthelakesandrivers,toursoftheMaisons
duParcatLarunsintheOssayvalleyandinEtsautintheAspevalley.
n www.parc-pyrenees.com
13
ECO-TOURISM
© yelloh ! Village Les grands Pins 33680 Lacanau-Océan
Holidays in the heart of nature!
LeS GRANDS PINS
CAMPSITe
in Lacanau-Océan
of Sarlat, have lunch at the Auberge de la
Rhonie, where local suppliers who are
environmentally-friendly are preferred. It
is hard to resist the foie gras, mushroom
omelette or the tarte aux noix.
Laid out on terraces across 14 hectares
of undulating land, Les Grands Pins
campsite is just 350 metres from the
huge fine sand beach and the ocean.
Make yourself at home amongst the pine
trees, strawberry trees and jennets, and
enjoy a holiday that respects this natural
environment. Even the kids will get
involved in Les Grands Pins’ ecological
commitment, with activities on recycling
waste.
n Domaine de la Rhonie – Boyer – 24220 Meyrals
Tél. : +33 (0)5 53 29 29 07
www.domainedelarhonie.com
© Drezen
HôTeL WINDSOR
in the Basque country
14
Energy and water savings, sorting and
reduction of waste are all mentioned on
the charter that is handed to you when you
arrive at the Louis Forestier holiday village,
located between the ocean and Hossegor
lake. In the summer, this environmental
commitment involves organising family
outings to discover the Landes landscape,
its traditions and ecological stakes.
n Le village-club Louis Forestier
7 avenue Jean Moulin – 40510 Seignosse le Penon
Tél. : +33 (0)5 58 43 31 15
www.louisforestier.com
Not only does the Hôtel Windsor provide
a panoramic view of the Grande Plage de
Biarritz beach, it is also ideally located in
the heart of the town centre, with direct
access to the beach. Whether from your
room, with a contemporary decor (ask
for a room with a view of the ocean),
from the “Galion” restaurant or sat on
the terrace at the “Bleu café”, you won’t
be able to help yourself from admiring
the Bay of Biscay. Wishing to preserve the
environment, this old private mansion
has implemented a waste and energy
management system.
n Hôtel Windsor – 11, avenue Edouard VII
64200 Biarritz. Tél. : +33 (0)5 59 24 08 52
www.hotelwindsorbiarritz.com
CAMPING DU LAC
in the Seignanx area
Committed with the Seignanx area to a
collective eco-tourism and sustainable
development procedure, the Camping
du Lac proudly displays its European
© Hôtel Windsor
© Domaine de la Rhonie
THe LOUIS FOReSTIeR
VILLAGe-CLUB
in Seignosse
Walls made of Perigord stone, wooden
beams, Italian-style showers… The
twelve rooms at the Hôtellerie de la
Rhonie combine charm and modernity.
After visiting the Pôle international de la
Préhistoire in Eyzies or the medieval town
eco-label. On the shores of a lake in the
pine forest, it is just 3.5 kilometres from
the ocean beaches. Between a bike ride
and some time spent relaxing in the
spa area, do your part in preserving the
natural environment of the southern
Landes coast.
n Camping du Lac – 518 rue de Janin – 40440 Ondres
Tél. : +33 (0)5 59 45 28 45
www.camping-du-lac.fr
n Camping Les Grands Pins – Yelloh! village
33680 Lacanau Océan. Tél : +33 (0)5 57 70 03 89
www.lesgrandspins.com
DOMAINe
De LA RHONIe
in ‘‘Black’’ Perigord
© Studio Méravilles
Campsites,hotels,guestrooms…InAquitaine,anincreasing
amountofestablishmentsareboastingthesmallgreenflowerfrom
theEuropeaneco-label,theonlyofficialeco-labelinEurope.Itis
theperfectopportunitytoprovethatitispossibletobeaholidaymakerandcarefortheenvironment.
Rentingaboatwhichrequiresnolicense,means
spendingaholidayatyourownpace,discovering
villagesandfortifiedvillagesonfoot,gettingonyour
bikeforculturalandgourmetoutingsorsimply
takingthetimetobreathe…FromBuzet-sur-Baïse
toCastets-en-DorthethentowardsAgenorNérac,
followusonthisuniquecruiseonthecanalde
GaronneandtheBaïse.
GETTING AWAy
Relax
on a habitable boat
aloNg tHe caNal de
S
at comfortably on the terrace of
your navigable boat, you’ll relax
under the century-old plane trees
that line the canal de Garonne. The silence
is impressive, you suddenly lose all sense of
time, far from the hustle of daily life. While
watching the water move beneath the hull,
the only worry you’ll have is deciding on
your next destination…
A few days earlier, your holiday began in the
bucolic atmosphere of the nautical base of
Buzet-sur-Baïse. The double-lock, the towing trail and the flotilla of barges moored
at the dock will immediately plunge you
garoNNe
into the 19th century, when horses pulled
the boat’s merchandise.
Learning to navigate
The first two hours are dedicated to learning
how to steer your boat: “A technician will
board your boat to take you on a short ride
and will moor the boat for you, allowing
you to become independent”, explains
Nicole Fabre at Aquitaine Navigation, a
boat rental company. Are the barges ready
to set off? Get on board your navigable
boat with your bikes, from two persons for
a couple, to 8/15 persons with five cabins.
For the entire duration of your journey, you
are the captain of the ship!
From Buzet-sur-Baïse, head west towards
Castets-en-Dorthe, where the canal flows
into the Garonne. With an average speed
of eight kilometres per hour, alternating
between sunflower fields and orchards,
the different stages will unfold faster than
you imagined on this waterway which is
listed on Unesco’s World Heritage list.
Stop off wherever tickles your fancy to
visit the Damazan fortified town, with
its covered market building surrounded
by colourful houses, or Mas d’Agenais,
© Smavlot / CRTA
At your own pace, you navigate between Val
de Garonne and Pays d’Albret. Your cruise is
punctuated by breaks lazing by the river and the
discovery of remarkable historical sites.
15
GETTING AWAy
one of the oldest villages in Lot-et-Garonne
where the Roman Collegiate houses a
Rembrandt painting, the “Crucifixion of
Christ”.
Gourmet stops and bike rides
”Bienvenue à la maison éclusière 42!” This is
how Thierry Vervack will welcome you to
La Chope et le Pichet, a bistrot-restaurant
located nine kilometres from Mas d’Agenais.
While his wife Katarina prepares small dishes
using fresh ingredients from her garden,
Thierry will answer your questions and deliver bread for your breakfast.
Want to head away from the canal or walk
along the towing path? Unload your bikes
and you’ll be in Marmande in no time. The
tomato capital is best discovered using the
Izzy Guide, which contains audio, photo and
video material that will activate automatically
when you pass by a point of interest, such as
the Saint-Benoît chapel, a jewel of baroque
art, or the cloister of Notre-Dame church,
with its remarkable garden.
You have to stop in Couthures-sur-Garonne,
a small village that is closely related to the
Garonne and its water level. For two hours,
the spectacle-course of the Gens de Garonne
will allow you to discover life by the river
thanks to “scenovision” a unique scenography
concept combining images, sound, odours
and special effects.
Locks and aqueducts
Passing through the first lock is naturally
a memorable moment on your cruise. But
don’t worry, the manoeuvre is easy and each
time you pass one, it only takes around 15
minutes. During this time, exchange places
to go and eat with fellow amateur boatmen.
Going through the locks is part of the
adventure. It is also a convivial moment
marked by exchanges with boaters or the
lock keeper.
“At the Lagruère nautical stop, we had a good
time at the Bout de la Côte, a Cafe with the
terrace overlooking the canal”, said Vincent, a
regular user of the canal: “We chose the SudOuest meal plan, which was delicious with a
Gascon salad, a stuffed duck leg and an apple
and prune crumble”.
Castets-en-Dorthe marks the western extremity of the canal which, with the famous twostage lock no. 53, serves as a junction with the
Garonne river. But your boat is not equipped
to pass, so you’ll need to turn around to return
to Buzet-sur-Baïse and start the second part of
your journey, this time moving through Agen
country. This part of the canal will take you
past the famous Agen aquaduct, the longest
in France after that of Briare with its 549
metres and 23 arches. Time to disembark to
visit the biggest town in Lot-et-Garonne, its
medieval streets and its Fine Arts Museum.
Next, head to Castelculier to discover the
scenovision of Villascopia. “Moor the boat
by La Poule à vélo, in Saint-Jean-de-Thurac ”,
suggests Vincent. “This old lock keeper house
serves local dishes using local ingredients,
including the famous stuffed chicken.”
The wilderness of the Baïse river
© Fluvial Terres du Sud / CRTA
Do you still have some time? The Buzet-surBaïse base is also the starting point for a 43
kilometre course down the Baïse, a tributary of the Garonne which twists and turns
through the wilderness. “It is more difficult to
navigate, there is no towing track and you can
only moor the boat in specific ports shown
on the river map”, explains Nicole Fabre.
one of the highlights of your cruise on the Canal de
Garonne: crossing the Agen aqueduct, the second longest
in France at 580 meters in length. Its 23 arches span the
Garonne with 20 metre openings.
16
Your cruise on the Baïse leads you to the foot
of the Barbaste fortified mill, located on an
old Roman road.
GETTING AWAy
USeFUL
INFORMATION:
Places to go along the canal
Gourmet stops
n La Chope et le Pichet
Maison éclusière 42 – Lieu-dit St-Christophe
47400 Villeton. - Tél. : +33 (0)5 53 83 13 49.
www.lachope-et-lepichet.fr
n Le Bout de la Côte
Halte nautique – 47400 Lagruère.
Tél. : +33 (0)5 53 20 95 47.
http://leboutdelacote.free.fr/
n La Poule à vélo
Maison éclusière 33 – Lieu-dit St-Christophe
47270 Saint-Jean-de-Thurac.
Tél. : +33 (0)5 53 68 41 17.
www.lapouleavelo.fr
After a stop at the cellar of the Buzet
wine-makers to try a few vintages from
this local appellation, take in the charms
of the Albret country: Barbaste and its
fortified mill, Nérac and its museumchâteau, homeland of Henry IV, and
Moncrabeau, “capital of liars”. In Vianne, a
superb fortified village from the 13th century
be sure to visit the arts craftsmen and walk
round the night market, which is always
bustling. Now you are back on the terrace
of your barge, your head full of memories of
relaxation, discove ry and various emotions.
And you will have already made a decision:
next year, you will once again be the captain of
the ship to discover the wonderful Lot valley,
a 65 kilometres course between Aiguillon and
Penne d’Agenais.
Rental companies for boats with no
license
n www.canauxdumidi.com
n www.tourisme-aquitaine.fr
© Photo Pont du canal à Agen - CDT 47
No experience is necessary to steer a boat which doesn’t require a license. Upon
your arrival, a technician will show you how the equipment works, as well as the
engine and steering station. After explaining all this, you’ll move on to a practical
steering lesson. Controlling the speed of the boat is child’s play: forward or
reverse. you will also be taught all manoeuvring details such as mooring as well
as how to pass locks. Finally, you’ll receive your “amateur pass”, a provisional
driving license, valid for the entire duration of your trip.
© Fluvial Terres du Sud / CRTA
Steering a habitable boat is easy!
17
ESCAPe
OnthebanksoftheDordogne,anexceptionalamountofFrance’smostbeautifulvillagesinviteyou
todiscoverwonderfulchâteaux,walkroundlovelyfortifiedvillagesandrelaxinluxurygardens.Also,
takethetimetotraveluptheriverEspéranceortakegourmetbreaksinthecountryoffoiegras,
cabecouandnuts…
A unique holiday
iN cHarMiNg villages
Go BACk In TIMe
in Belvès
Located on top of a rocky overhang which overlooks the Nauze,
the medieval town with seven bell towers has miraculously
kept the magnificent traces of its built heritage. At the gourmet
market overlooked by the 11th century belfry, the stands are full
of ducks, geese, mushrooms, nuts and other Perigord products.
Next, tour the troglodytic habitations, several caves which were
transformed and inhabited between the 13th and 18th century.
Then, head up the Nauze to learn about textile techniques
from yesteryear and today, in the Belvès spinning mill, a centre
where wool is worked, located in an old medieval mill which is
testimony to Perigord’s industrial heritage.
n www.tourisme-belves.com
ADMIRe DoRDoGne
in Beynac-et-Cazenac
From the old port on the right bank of the Dordogne to the
medieval castle, walk up the steep streets and the stone staircases
worn by time, to reach the feudal fortress of Beynac, built in
the 12th century by Maynard de Beynac. Built on the edge
of a cliff overlooking the Dordogne, the Beynac keep was an
ideal observation point to see across the entire valley. From this
defensive stronghold of this first building to the 17th century
Renaissance staircase, passing through the 15th century State
18
room, experience history on the trail of Richard Lionheart and
Simon de Montfort. What would you say to tasting a duck confit
with salardaise potatoes to end your tour?
n www.perigordnoir.com
PICTuRe YouRSeLF AS A knIGhT
in Castelnaud-la-Chapelle
Overlooking the Dordogne and Céou valleys with a splendid
view, the village of Castelnaud-la-Chapelle is known for its
two châteaux, the château des Milandes, once the property
of Joséphine Baker, and the fortified castle which has been
magnificently restored, and now houses the War in the Middle
Typical houses
in Castelnaud-la-Chapelle.
© oT de Castelnaud la chapelle
© oT du pays de Belves
A paved alley in
Beynac-et-Cazenac.
one of Belvès’ seven bell towers.
The medieval city of Limeuil.
ESCAPe
Ages museum. Learn about this medieval fortress by taking a
dramatized tour, while your kids put on their armour and take
part in a weapon yielding demonstration (during the school
holidays). Next, take a stroll through the steep streets, admiring
the village’s houses, so typical of Perigord, and then see how nut
oil is made at the Ecomusée de la Noix.
n www.tourisme-ceou.com
DISCoVeR
DoMMe’S MARVeLS
in Domme
Within 10 kilometres of Sarlat, the fortified village of Domme
has a hidden treasure beneath the central market place
made of beautiful golden stone: the largest cave in “Black”
Perigord. Descend into the earth’s bowels and discover a
marvellous world of colonnades, stalactites and stalagmites.
The Domme panoramic viewpoint.
© oT de Domme
BeCoMe An ARTS CRAFTSMAn
in Limeuil
At the confluence of the Dordogne and the Vézère, the medieval
town of Limeuil unveils its two faces: at the level of the river,
the Place du Port, a 19th century inland water shipping centre, and
the high village, that you can see thanks to the interpretive trail and
the heritage walk which will take you through the sloped streets:
don’t miss the Saint-Martin chapel – one of Perigord’s most
beautiful Romanesque churches – then head to the Panoramic
Gardens of Limeuil with themed areas with plenty of different
surprises. There, after taking a stroll in the themed gardens
(garden of colours, garden of witches, water garden,…) take part in
workshops that will introduce you to local know-how: you’ll know
all there is to know about basketry, weaving and natural dying.
Going back up in a panoramic lift provides one of the best view
points of the Dordogne valley, with the villages of La Roque-Gageac
and Beynac-et-Cazenac in the distance. Do not leave without
having visited the Porte des Tours, where the Templar prisoners
carved drawings, a testimony of their faith.
n www.ot-domme.com
BoARD A BARGe
in La Roque-Gageac
n www.limeuil-en-perigord.com
In the 19th century, the famous barges that were used to carry
merchandise filled the Dordogne river. Today, they are the ideal
way to admire the houses made of yellow stone with lauze
roofs that are warmed at the foot of the cliff exposed to the
south. Admire the church’s tower-wall, then the exotic garden
which, with its banana trees, succulents and pink laurel trees,
transports you to the Mediterranean. Looking for the best view
of La Roque-Gageac? Take a ride in a hot air balloon or head
towards the hanging gardens of Marqueyssac, to the Dordogne
panoramic view point which is 130 metres above the river,
providing an exceptional view of the valley.
More of “France’s most
beautiful villages” in Dordogne
n www.sarlat-tourisme.com
View of La Roque-Gageac’s
stone houses.
Inadditiontothesix“mostbeautifulvillagesinFrance”intheDordognevalley,
thedepartmenthasanotherfourvillagesthatcarrythefamouslabel.In“Green”
Perigord,thehouseswithbrowntileroofsinSaint-Jean-de-Côlearebuiltarounda
medievalbridgeandaRoman-Byzantinestylepriory.EachyearinMay,thevillage
triestolookitsbestfortheFloralies.
JustafewstepsfromLascaux,intheVézèrevalley,Saint-Amand-de-Colyhouses
a 12th century abbey-church which is regarded as the most beautiful fortified
church in the Perigord region. Carry on towards the Eyzies and discover SaintLéon-sur-Vézère,whichannuallyhoststhe“Black”Perigordmusicfestivalinits
beautiful12thcenturyRomanesquechurch.
Further to the south in “Purple” Perigord, Monpazier is considered to be the
jewelofPerigord’sfortifiedvillages:itschess-boardlayoutandarchitecturehave
remainedessentiallyunchangedsincetheMiddleAges.
n www.ville-saint-jean-de-cole.fr
n www.saint-amand-de-coly.org/accueil.php
n www.saint-leon-sur-vezere.fr
n www.monpazier.fr
19
UNIqUE AnD INEXPENSIVE
Presbytery,“nest”inthetreesoranoldgirl’sschool:
discoverourselectionofguesthousescombiningcomfort
anduniquestyle.
UNiqUe
NigHts
From
© Rouge Bordeaux
65 € *
a night
IN AN OLD 18TH CeNTURY
PReSBYTeRY
eCOLOGICAL LODGe
IN A WINe-MAkING CHâTeAU
Pancakes with maple syrup, bacon and
eggs or bagels and cream cheese… This is
the American brunch served by your hosts
Megan (American) and Julien (French)
Martel in their Rouge Bordeaux guest house,
located in Auros, between the Gironde
Landes and Sauternes. In this old and
authentic Gironde presbytery from the end
of the 18th century, relax by the pool and
practice your French!
© Château haut Garrigue
n Ohana Lodge – 56, rue des Hortensias – 40660
Moliets-et-Maa. Tél. : +33 (0)5 58 43 21 25
www.ohanalodge.com
© La vieille école
n Château Haut Garrigue – Sean et Caro Feely
24240 Saussignac. Tél. : +33 (0)5 53 07 86 26.
www.hautgarrigue.com
BeTWeeN THe SAND DUNeS
AND GOLF COURSe IN MOLIeTS
Go back to school in Bourgougnague, a
small village in the country of fortified
villages, close to Miramont-de-Guyenne.
You will indeed be staying in the old catholic
girl’s school, built in 1872, which has 3 large
rooms decorated with designer furniture,
and a chapel with magnificent stained glass
windows, where your hosts Fred and Rens
Olthoff give dancing, painting or music
lessons. Who ever said you can’t study while
on holiday?
Decorated with shades of navy, the guest
rooms at Lodge Ohana are ideally located
© ohana Lodge
n La Vieille Ecole – Le Rigaude – 47410 Bourgougnague.
Tél. : +33 (0)5 53 64 60 35. - www.lavieilleecole.eu
From
78 € *
a night
© Les nids du Béarn
From
20
PeRCHeD IN A “NeST”
IN THe BéARN AReA
Providing an unbeatable view of the
Saussignac valley and the vines of the château
Haut Garrigue, the Wine Lodge is built in
an ecological way, with old stone, as well as
natural wood and materials. After spending
a night in the comfortably furnished guest
house, be sure to attend one of the tastings
organized by the château Haut Garrigue,
whose activities were recognized in 2012 by
Best of Wine Tourism.
IN AN OLD
GIRLS’ SCHOOL
a night
to enjoy the open-air activities in the seaside
resort of Moliets-et-Maa, just a kilometre from
the beach for surfing, and only 400 metres from
the clubhouse of the Moliets International
Golf Course. Upon returning to the lodge
m
o
with its combination of Basque and Landes
r
F
architecture, make yourself comfortable by
*
the pool and dream of your next sporting
achievements…
a night
98 €
n Rouge Bordeaux - 3 rue Tauzia – 33124 Auros.
Tél. : +33 (0)5 56 25 10 38.
http://rougebordeauxfr.wordpress.com
65 € *
for less than 100 euros
From
96 € *
a night
In the Loubieng woods between
Orthez and Navarrenx, some
strange-looking spheres are
perched in the trees. They are actually real
rooms, easy to get to thanks to the nets
extended between the trees from the ground
and equipped with a comfortable mattress
and a bed cover made to measure. After
waking up to the sound of the birds singing,
climb down from your “nest” and meet the
inhabitants of the forest, namely squirrels
and other animals.
n Les Nids du Béarn – 1716 chemin de Hourcloum –
64300 Loubieng. Tél. : +33 (0)5 64 11 02 26 ou +33
(0)6 75 00 54 65.
www.lesnidsdubearn.com
* indicative prices 2013
Morris Robert, ‘‘Steam’’, 1995 - ©F. Delpech
URbAN TOURISM
The contemporary works of art are particularly well
showcased in the nave of the CAPC in Bordeaux.
The museums will introduce you
to the towns in Aquitaine
ThelargesttownsinAquitaineallhaveamuseumofwhichtheyareparticularlyproud.Goingtothe
museumsisalsoagoodwaytolearnmoreaboutthesetowns.Bordeauxisresolutelyturnedtowards
2030,BayonneisproudofitsBasquetraditions,PauiselegantinthefootstepsofHenryIV,and
PérigueuxisagourmetGallo-Romantown.
BORDeAUx AND CONTeMPORARY ART
Begin your tour of 21st century Bordeaux at the Centre d’arts plastiques contemporains (CAPC),
which is located in the Lainé warehouse, which allowed the storage of colonial commodities
in the 19th century. Around the spectacular central nave, you’ll find the exhibit galleries and
June: Wine Fair and River Fair
the contemporary architecture centre of Arc en rêve. Be sure to have lunch at the Café Andrée
Thesetwobiennialeventstakeplaceinturnatthestartof
thesummer.OnthebanksoftheGaronne,thousandsof
Putman, on the terrace-roof of the CAPC.
peoplegathertoeithertastewine,ortoadmireboatsand
From the Chartrons, head towards another flourishing district, the Bassins à flots. The
takepartinnauticalactivities.
n www.bordeaux-fete-le-vin.com
Fonds régional d’art contemporain (Frac), which is celebrating its 30th anniversary in 2013,
and www.bordeauxfetelefleuve.com
will welcome you in Hangar G2, a building from the 30’s made of concrete. Then use the
September:
Agora
newly-inaugurated Chaban-Delmas bridge to get to the botanical garden designed by the
Thenextarchitecture,townplanninganddesignbiennial
landscape architect Catherine Mosbach. Back on the left bank, the world’s largest water mirror
willtakeplacein2014.
n www.bordeaux2030.fr/bordeaux-agora
is a great place for a fun or meditative break, opposite the Port de la Lune, which is listed on
November: Novart
Unesco’s World Heritage list.
Dedicatedtocreation,inventionandnewartistic
And if you fancy staying in a modern hotel, stay at the Boutique Hôtel, a stone’s throw from
projects,thestageartsbiennialbringstogethervarious
the Grand Théâtre, which provides a contemporary décor with designer furniture by Flamant,
contemporaryexpressions.
contemporary
expressions.
n www.novartbordeaux.com
Kartell or Eichholtz. Or, starting in the summer of 2013, stay at the
Mama Shelter, the fifth hotel opened by Serge Trigano’s brand, USeFUL INFORMATION
with rooms designed by Philippe Starck. Furthermore, both are Office de tourisme:
ideally located if you want to shop at the chic boutiques of the 12 Cours du 30 Juillet – 33000 Bordeaux.
Tél. : +33 (0)5 56 00 66 00
“Triangle d’Or” in Bordeaux.
n www.bordeaux-tourisme.com
DIARY
21
URbAN TOURISM
Listed in 1991, the
Dagourette House
has housed the
Basque Museum
of Bayonne since
1922.
BAYONNe
Before entering the Basque museum and the History of Bayonne,
have a look at the facade of the Maison Dagourette, built at the end
of the 16th century. Inside, you’ll find over 2000 objects and art
pieces which are testimony to Basque identity.
You journey into Bayonne’s past, a “Town of Art and History”
since 2012, continues in the preserved district. With ramparts
protecting the old centre and a cathedral listed on Unesco’s
World Heritage list, you will feel the Basque soul of the town.
Enjoy a cup of hot chocolate at Cazenave, beneath the hoops
of rue Port-Neuf, treat yourself to some Basque linen or espadrilles
in the commercial streets, taste a Koskera hake or some piperade
ham at the Chistera restaurant, run by a family of pelotaris and
rugby players for 53 years.
Next, cross the Nive to attend a Basque pelote game in the heart
of Petit-Bayonne, at the trinquet Saint-André, the oldest in France.
At the foot of the citadel built by Vauban, have lunch at the
Auberge du Cheval Blanc, and old coaching inn (with one
Michelin star) where Jean-Claude Telléchéa serves dishes made
with local ingredients, at fair prices.
Need to relax? Six kilometres from the town centre, let yourself
be pampered at the Makila spa, run by the Lièvremont brothers.
For accommodation, choose between La Villa hotel, a charming
residence with Basque architecture in the upper part of Bayonne
(and the only 4-star hotel in the town), or Le Poteau Rose guest
house, an atypical place decorated with furniture by well-known
designers and paintings.
© oT Bayonne – Tuvemafoto.com
AND THe BASQUe
TRADITION
DIARY
March: The Bayonne Ham Fair
OnEasterweekendeachyear,sincethe15thcentury,thehamfairunitesfansofthe
famousBayonnespeciality.Thiseventrepresentsagreattraditionalfestivalandoffers
thefinesthams,porkproductsandtraditionalcookedmeats,whichareavailableinthe
marketplace.
n www.bayonne-tourisme.com
March: encounters at the Docks
Organisedbythe“artetéssai”cinemasinBayonne,thisdocumentaryfilmfestivaloffers
concerts,exhibitsandencountersthatwillmakeyouseetheworldinadifferentlight.
n http://atalante-cinema.org
October: Dantza Hirian
FromSanSebastiantoBayonne,theDantzaHirianurbandancefestivalfillsthestreetsof
theBasqueEurocity,tointroducepeoplefromallwalksoflifetocontemporarydancing.
people
contemporary dancing.
n www.dantzahirian.com
USeFUL INFORMATION
Office de tourisme:
place des Basques – 64100 Bayonne.
Tél. : +33 (0)820 42 64 64
n www.bayonne-tourisme.com
From Greco to Rubens or
from Morisot to Lhote,
admire the Musée des
Beaux-Arts de Pau’s
masterpieces.
22
© Monnuage Shoomo France / CRTA
PAU, THe TOWN OF
Originally a fortress for the viscounts of Béarn,
then the fortified castle of Gaston Febus, Pau castle
is above all the birth residence of Henry IV, King
of France and Navarre. Today, the palace which
overlooks the gorge of Pau has become an entire
museum about “good King Henry” and the famous
turtle shell that also served as his cradle. Listed as
a National Museum, it presents a rich decorative
collection as well as one of the most impressive
tapestry collections in Europe. A stone’s throw
from the castle, walk around the picturesque streets
of the medieval and Renaissance town, and stop for
some food at Ze Bistrot owned by Thierry Lassala,
student of Guérard and Arrambide.
After some shopping in the streets around the
historic centre, stroll along boulevard des Pyrenees, a
superb promenade shaded by banana and palm
© Monnuage Shoomo France / CRTA
URbAN TOURISM
From the mezzanines that house the
collections, there is a spectacular view
across the archaeological remains of
Vesunna.
DIARY
early August: Mimos festival
Thelargestfestivalofmimesandmovementarts
inEurope,Mimospresentswonderfulspectacles
performedinthestreets,inthetheatresorunderthe
tentsetupnearthecathedral.
Vesunna,
n www.mimos.fr
site-musée
àPérigueux.
Late August: Sinfonia festival
Dedicatedtobaroquemusic,Sinfoniainvitesyoutolisten
toconcertsandspectaclesinplaceswithincredible
acoustics,suchastheSaint-EtiennedelaCitéchurchin
PérigueuxorChanceladeabbey.
November: the international gourmet book fair
Throughaselectionofspectacles,exhibitsanddebates,
thisfairistestimonytotheimportanceofcuisineandart
devivreinFrenchpublishing.
n www.livre-gourmand.com
USeFUL INFORMATION
Office de tourisme:
26 place Francheville – 24000 Périgueux.
Tél. : +33 (0)5 53 53 10 63
n www.tourisme-perigueux.fr
PéRIGUeUx, A GALLO-ROMAN TOWN
In the heart of the ancient town of Périgueux, the relics of a rich Gallo-Roman residence were
highlighted in Jean Nouvel’s architecture. The result is Vesunna, a museum that takes you back
to the time of the Roman Empire. From the museum’s mezzanines, a spectacular view of the
relics of the “Domus de Vésone” is before you.
On foot, head to the medieval and Renaissance town, one of the largest preserved areas in
France which is unique thanks to the half-timbered houses and its rich residences. From
November to March, place Saint-Louis welcomes the foie gras and truffle market. Just a stone’s
throw from the covered market place, taste the famous Périgueux pâté with a truffle crust, at
Pierrot Gourmet, a caterer and restaurant which serves gourmet dishes from 11am to 6pm
non-stop.
Spend the night at Castel Peyssard, a hotel with a spa and bistrot, opened at the end of 2011.
Do you prefer the style of the Belle Epoque? Then try the Jardin d’Inès guest house, a stone’s
throw from Saint-Front cathedral, built on the route to Santiago de Compostella and listed
as a World Heritage monument. To admire its silhouette which outlines a Greek cross topped
with Byzantine-style domes, cross the Isle and enjoy a Perigord-style foie gras and escargot
soufflé, while sat on the terrace of the Berges de l’Isle. After working off the food with a
stroll along the via verde of the banks of the Isle, go back to the Tourism Office through the
commercial streets and visit the Tour Mataguerre: from the path, you can see all of Périgueux.
kING HeNRY IV
trees, which provides a unique panoramic view
of the Pyrenees mountain tops. Head to the Palais
Beaumont, which houses an exhibit centre, a casino,
an auditorium and a restaurant with a terrace.
Nearby, you have to stop at the Fine Arts Museum,
where you’ll find works by Degas, Rubens, Le Greco...
Cross the Beaumont park and drop off your bags
at the hotel with the same name, a lovely
contemporary establishment with a spa. Do you
prefer historical places? Then choose the Villa
Navarre hotel, which is testimony to the time when
English aristocrats spent their holidays in Pau.
Other references to this prestigious past include
Pau-Billère golf club, the oldest club in Europe or
the Pau Gelos national stud farm, created in 1808,
upon the request of Napoleon 1st and which today
still houses around a hundred stallions.
USeFUL INFORMATION
DIARY
Office de tourisme:
Place Royale – 64000 Pau.
Tél. : +33(0)5 59 27 27 08
n www.pau-pyrenees.com
May: Historical Grand Prix in Pau
Thismotorcargrandprixistheonlyonetotakeplaceinthetown-centre.Tomarkthis
event,exhibitsofoldcarsareorganised.
n www.grandprixdepau.com
August: Hestiv’Oc festival
Since2005,musicandculturesfromthesoutharebroughttogethereachyearinPau.
Forfourdays,cinema,circus,dancing,streetartandtraditionalsportsfillthetown.
n www.hestivoc.com
December: Pau international film festival
ThePaufilmfestivalisuniquebecauseofitscommitmenttooneartisticstream,by
presentinguniquefilmswithnodistributor,aswellasregionalproductions.
n www.lemelies.net/festival
23
Local products
SHOPPINg
aNd tHe people wHo Make tHeM
1.
1. MOULIN DE LARROqUE
PAPER MILL In Couze
It was Georges Duchêne who put life back into this authentic
13thcenturymillin1972,builtontheCouze,just20minutes
fromBergerac.Sincethen,PatrickDaguenel,themasterstationer, has taken over: “the entire paper-making
processisdonebyhand,withthehelpofHollanderbeaters
whichshredthecottonrags,linenorhemp”.Listedasalive
heritage company, the Larroque paper mill’s clients include
Bordeaux fine wine-makers, fashion houses and the Louvre
Museum.
Moulin de Larroque : 24150 Couze.
Tél. : +33 (0)5 53 61 01 75
www.moulindelarroque.com
2.
3. GIANNA ET MOI,
LADIeS’ FAShIon In BoRDeAux
LADI
2. LAFFARGUE,
LeATheR CRAFTSMAn
In SAInT-JeAn-De-Luz
Foundedin1890byJosephDanielLaffargue,the
sonofasaddlerandcompanion,maisonLafargue
hasareputationforitsleatherarticlesmadewith
Basquestuddedleather.“Everythingismadein
ourworkshop,behindourboutique”,explains
Marie-SylvieLaffargue,whorunsthefamily
companywithherbrotherJean-Michel.”The
skinsofFrenchoriginarrivetannedindifferent
colours,thenspecializedcraftsmenmakethem
intobags,beltsorwallets.”Thebrand’sbestseller?“Ourstuddedbucketbag”.
© Gerard Vallet
© laffargue
”Cheerful,
”Cheerful,fun,colourfulbutalwayselegant”.Thisishow
Marie-FrançoiseBoyancier,co-founderofGiannaetMoi
Marie-Françoise
withStéphanePeronnaud,describesthefashionlabel
with
launchedinBordeauxin1996.Thetwodesignerswork
launched
mostlyonmaterials:“weareinspiredbythematerialthat
mostly
iswheretheclothingisborn”,saysMarie-Françoisewhile
is
alsonoting:“thematerialmustbeabletofiteveryone,
also
whether
whethersmall,tall,skinnyorplump”.Thebest-sellerat
Gianna
Gianna&Moi?Theskirts,dressesandjumpers.
2.
4.
3.
4. ARTIGA, In MAGeSCq
In The LAnDeS
”All
”AllourcollectionsareMadebyus,whichrecentlyallowed
Artiga
Artigatoobtainthe“OrigineFranceGarantie”label,
Quitterie
QuitterieDelfourproudlyannounced,havingtakenoverthe
brandwhichspecializesinBasqueclothandaccessories
brand
forthehome.“Drawingsofthefinishedproductsaredone
for
attheheadofficeofMagescqbyourdesigners”,explains
at
theGeneralManager.“Then,ourhistoricweaver,locatedin
the
thePyrenees-Atlantiques,weavesthecloththatisusedfor
the
manufacturinginoursewingworkshop”.
manufacturing
© Artiga
Laffargue : 25 rue Gambetta
64500 Saint-Jean-de-Luz.
Tél. : +33 (0)5 59 26 11 38
www.laffargue-maroquinerie.fr
Gianna et Moi : 42 rue Sainte-Colombe
33000 Bordeaux. Tél. : +33 (0)5 56 94 57 90.
www.giannaetmoi.com
5.
Artiga : 5 rue Brémontier – 40140 Magescq.
Tél. : +33 (0) 5 58 47 62 39. www.artiga.fr
5. bASkETRY wORkSHOP In AnThé
Just
Just13kilometrestotheeastofPenne-d’Agenais,ChristianBoncourwelcomesyoutohisbasketryworkshop.
“Aboveall,Iamafarmer”,ishowhelikestointroducehimself.Becausegrowingawickerplantrequiresalot
of
ofwork,andthat’swithoutharvesting,sortingandhulling…Theresultisfinebasketry,called“luxury”,which
hethenexportstocraftsboutiquesinParis,Germany,andasfarawayasSanFrancisco!Doyouwanttocreate
your
yourownbasket?Learnhowtoworkthewickerduringoneofthemonthlyworkshopsledbythispassionate
wicker
wickergrower.
© Ch. Boncour
24
Atelier de vannerie d’osier - 47370 Anthé.
Tél. : +33 (0)5 53 40 72 14. - www.cc-dufumelois.com
© moulin de Larroque
Intownslikeinthe
countryside,theymake
highqualityproducts,with
areputationthatgoes
wellbeyondtheirborders.
Meetthesecreatorsin
theintimatesettingof
theirworkshopsandleave
Aquitainewithsomevery
nicesouvenirs.
MADELEINES WITH AqUITAINE HONEy
© AAPrA – C.Girardot
BAyONNE CHOCOLATE CAkE
WITH ESPELETTE PEPPER
© AAPrA – F.Brunet
regioNal
flavours
regioNal
flavours
regioNal
flavours
© AAPrA – F.Brunet
regioNal
flavours
PIPERADE WITH ESPELETTE PEPPER
AND BAyONNE HAM
© AAPrA – C.Girardot
AqUITAINE HAMBURgER
WITH APPLES AND DUCk FOIE gRAS
PIPERADE WITH ESPELETTE
PEPPER AND BAyONNE HAM
AqUITAINE HAMBURgER
WITH APPLES AND DUCk FOIE gRAS
RecipebyChristopheGirardot,formerChefatLaTabledeMontesquieu
(1Michelinstar),formerstudentofMichelGuérard.
RecipebyChristopheGirardot,formerChefatLaTabledeMontesquieu
(1Michelinstar),formerstudentofMichelGuérard.
Ingredients
serves 6:
Ingredients
serves 6:
• 500 g of onions
• 500 g of green chili
peppers
• 4 garlic cloves
• 2 kg of tomatoes
Preparation:
1. Chop up a small amount of ham fat and melt
it in a large saucepan, then add the chopped
onions and the seeded green chili peppers, cut
lengthwise into quarters.
• a bouquet garni
(thyme, laurel,
parsley, leek, celery)
• 100 g of new onions
2. Cook for 5 minutes without browning.
• 50 g of fresh spinach
3. Add the crushed garlic cloves, a few pieces of
ham and a bouquet garni.
• 400 g of raw southwest foie gras
• 500 g of Bayonne ham Cook slowly for a further 10 minutes.
• Espelette Pepper
4. Add 2 kg of peeled and seeded tomatoes.
• salt, pepper, sugar
• 6 Limousin apples
Add salt, pepper and a little sugar to reduce
bitterness.
5. Add two pinches of Espelette pepper and
cook on high heat, stirring regularly until all the
tomato juice has evaporated.
6. Serve hot or cold with a thin slice of fried
Bayonne ham.
• 2 tablespoons of
golden sesame seeds
• 50 g butter
• Fleur de sel from
Salies-de-Béarn
• Pepper from a mill
• 2 dl of veal juice
• 1/2 l of Bordeaux wine
• 100 g sugar
saveUrs
régionales
Find the products and recipes from the Aquitaine
region at www.gastronomie.aquitaqui.fr
www.gastronomie.aquitaine.fr
BAyONNE CHOCOLATE CAkE
WITH ESPELETTE PEPPER
RecipebyVincentPoussard,ChefattheQuaidesSaveurscookingschoolin
Bordeaux.
Ingredients
serves 4:
• 60 g of flour
• 100 g of caster sugar
• 60 g of butter
• 3 eggs
Preparation:
1. Line the moulds with butter and flour then place
in the fridge.
2. Melt the butter in a saucepan and place the
chocolate in a bain-marie.
3. Separate the egg whites and whisk them until
they form peaks.
• 150 g of dark Bayonne Making the cake:
chocolate
• a pinch of Espelette
pepper
1. Mix egg yolks and sugar.
2. Add the melted butter until the mixture is
smooth.
3. Add the melted chocolate and the peaked egg
whites: mix until smooth.
4. Add the flour and Espelette pepper all at once.
5. Place in the moulds and bake in the oven for 10
minutes at 150° C.
6. Remove from the moulds while still hot and
place on a plate. The cake will be warm, but runny
inside.
saveUrs
régionales
Preparation:
1. In a saucepan, evaporate the Bordeaux wine
with a dash of sugar to end up with roughly 1 dl of
liquid.
2. Add the veal juice and allow it to reduce by half
(the sauce must be thick).
3. Slice the apples in half lengthwise, remove the
core then place these large slices on a baking dish
covered with melted butter, a dash of sugar, salt
and pepper.
4. Cook in a hot oven (200°C) for around 6 minutes.
Wash the spinach, then melt it in a knob of butter,
add salt and pepper.
5. Chop the new onions as finely as possible, then
cook them for 3 to 4 minutes in butter and season.
6. Divide the foie gras into escalopes of just over
a centimetre in size, flour all the sides and then
brown them in a very hot non-stick pan.
7. Create a hamburger by surrounding the foie
gras escalope with roasted apples, candied onions
and fresh spinach. Top with the hot sauce and
sprinkle a few sesame seeds on top.
region at www.gastronomie.aquitaine.fr
www.gastronomie.aquitaqui.fr
MADELEINES WITH AqUITAINE HONEy
RecipebyVincentPoussard,ChefattheQuaidesSaveurscookingschool
inBordeaux.
Ingredients
serves 4:
• 200 g butter
• 130 g sugar
• 200 g flour
Preparation:
1. Melt 200 g of butter in a bain-marie with the
honey in a recipient then cool.
2. Beat 3 whole eggs with 130 g of fine sugar and
6 cl of milk.
• 1 sachet of baking
powder
3. Add the sifted flour and the sachet of baking
powder, then pour in the cooled butter and mix
well.
• 30 g of Aquitaine
honey
4. Leave the mixture in the fridge for 3 hours.
• 3 eggs
• 6 ml milk
5. Fill the madeleine moulds (roughly 23
madeleines).
6. Place in the oven for 3 minutes at 210° C and
15 minutes at 190° C.
Dax madeleines
Madeleines are a traditional speciality from Dax,
in the Landes. Since 1906, the company Cazelle
has made madeleines according to its secret
production procedure.
Chef’s tips
you can finish by placing a quenelle of whipped
cream on top, and sprinkling some Espelette
pepper.
saveUrs
régionales
GETAWAyS
Spend the day
with an oyster farmer
in the Bay of Arcachon.
Sharing the professions
of Aquitaine
© SIBA - B.RUIZ
iN tHe sHoes of…
Haveyoueverdreamtofbeingasheepfarmer,oysterfarmer,cheforwinemaker?InAquitaine,yourdreamcancometrue.Foradayoraweekend,livethe
livesofprofessionals,inawaythatismilesawayfromclichésandpostcards.
With an oyster farmer
in the Bay of Arcachon
On holiday in the Bay of Arcachon? At
the turn of the tide, do something a little
different and follow an oyster farmer to
discover his profession. Three hours
before low tide, the meeting point is
at the port in front of your host’s cabin
who will prepare the barge with a flat
bottom for growing and gathering oysters.
“We can take four or five people depending
on the size of the boat”, says Olivier
Laban, President of the Regional
Shellfish farming Committee. “The
objective is to have them experience
what we do all year, living our lives”.
On average, it takes an hour to get to the oyster
farms. “We make the most of this time to explain
our profession, and to make the passengers aware
of how fragile the environment in which we work
really is”. Then, the programme changes every day.
Depending on the day, the oyster farmer will place
spat collectors, turn over oyster bags, gather…
“People want to get away from the usual tourism
trip, and when they return to port, they are aware
of the necessity to protect the quality of our water
for the oysters to develop”, says Olivier Laban. These
moments of sharing always end in the same way, by
eating some freshly collected oysters. “On the boat
the experience is even better, it is like eating cherries
while in a cherry tree”.
n Contact :
offices du tourisme du Bassin d’Arcachon
www.arcachon.com and www.bassin-arcachon.com
27
GETAWAyS
With a shepherd
in the Pyrenees
What do sheep dogs actually do? How
do you locate the herd in the mountain
pastures? Jean-Pierre Pommies, a shepherd
in the Béarn Piedmont as well as a
mountain guide, has been welcoming
tourists for ten years, and answers their
questions with great enthusiasm. In July
and August, he will offer to take you on one
of his day trips to see herds of cows and
sheep. “It’s a family hike, and is suitable for
kids as young as 5”, he explains. “We leave
at 10am with two donkeys, on which the
kids can ride. At noon, we stop by a lake for
a picnic to enjoy some farm products such
as pork, cheese, wine and bread from the
local village baker”. The day is dedicated to
discovering pastoral life
in the P yrenees, with a
demonstration of the work
of a sheep dog and how the
herd is moved towards the salt
stones”. “For those who wish,
they can pick up a stick and
take part, they become players
and are usually surprised at
the contact that they have with
the animals”.And to dive even
deeper into the life of a shepherd,
Jean-Pierre and his wife Josie
offer you the possibility to live
with them for three days, for the
time it takes for a migration.
n Contact :
Jean-Pierre Pommies
72, route de Saint-Vincent
64800 Coarraze
Tél. : +33 (0)5 59 13 96 25
ou 06 87 66 29 03
http://transhumance.net
With a Chef
in the Perigord
region
The small village of Sorges in the Perigord,
between Périgueux and Thiviers, as well
as the inn of the same name, are famous
for their truffles. Pierre Corre, the Chef,
invites you to share his passion for the
“black gold of Perigord” by taking a course.
The truffle weekend plan begins on Friday
evening with an aperitif and dinner at the
restaurant. Then, on Saturday morning,
follow Pierre Corre and observe his daily life
as a chef. You’ll go with him to the foie
gras market in Périgueux or
Thiviers, and he’ll
show you how to
choose tr uff les.
“You have to smell
them, and recognise
the ones that give off
the strongest scent”, he
explains , while
pressing his
nose up
against a
28
basket full of “melanosporums”. When you
get back to Sorges, visit the Ecomusée de la
Truffe before heading to the kitchen with the
Chef. In the afternoon, you’ll have fun in the
quick-paced environment. Pierre Corre will
explain each recipe that you will prepare in
front of him. Magret à la royale, omelette
with truffles, scrambled eggs with truffles,
celery cappuccino with truffles, and even an
île flottante with truffles… You’d never have
imagined being able to prepare this many
dishes in such a short period of time! The
chef ’s enthusiasm is contagious, and you’ll
get your reward in the evening when you
enjoy his famous special truffle meal. You’ll
need a good night’s sleep before starting the
second day with a visit to the truffle market
in Sorges with the Chef, who knows all of the
region’s truffle farmers. Next, he’ll take you
to see a truffle farm with a specialist who
will show you how a dog – or pig – finds the
truffles at the foot of the trees. You’ll leave
with a recipe book and perhaps even a few
truffles, to blow away the next people you
host for dinner!
n Contact :
Auberge de la Truffe
24420 Sorges.
Tél. : +33 (0)5 53 05 02 05
www.auberge-de-la-truffe.com
GETAWAyS
With a
wine-maker
in the Buzet
vineyard
Just three kilometres from the
fortified village of Damazan
and the canal which runs
alongside the Garonne, Jacques
Rejalot will welcome you at
his Pichon property in SaintLéon, in AOC Côtes-de-Buzet.
Depending on the season and
the work at hand, he’ll explain the key
phases in cultivating vines before putting
you to work: in March you’ll learn how to
trim, in May you’ll learn about suckering,
and in September, the big event, the
harvest: “our visitors often wish to
With a sea
fisherman
in the Landes
harvest by hand, which is exactly
how we do it in our 3 hectares of
vines”, says Jacques Rejalot, who
also explains the organic procedure
in place at the vineyard. “I implemented
a teaching programme centred on organic
wine-making and bio-dynamics, because
consumers are interested in this form of
cultivating”.Kids are not forgotten,
they get involved throughout
the day, with the exception,
of course, of the tasting.
“But they can take
part in sensory
discovery workshops
using aromatic
plants, the orchard
and its in-season fruits”,
mentions Jacques Rejalot,
who is also an oenologist,
and can thus introduce you
to wine tasting in his wine
warehouse. After a “hard” day
spent amongst the vines, take a
break in the property ’s Bacchus
rooms, a lovely 19th century
house (3 Clévacances keys).
n Contact :
Jacques Rejalot
Pichon – 47160 Saint-Léon.
Tél. : +33 (0)5 53 83 04 95.
The first condition to discover
the life of a fisherman is to
have the soul of a seaman!
“It will be a long day, and
there’s no going back if you
get sea-sick”, explains Sylvie
Biarrotte, the captain’s wife.
The second constraint is to be
willing to get up at the same time
as the Toune’s crew, which is anywhere
between 4am and 6am, depending on
the tide. It will still be dark when the
head fisherman welcomes you on board.
“There are four fisherman on board, so we
only have room for two extra passengers”,
says Sylvie. Depending on the weather
conditions and the season – the Toune
heads out all year-round – you need to be
wearing wellington boots, a jumper and
rain clothes, and bring a sandwich. Enjoy
the sunrise on the horizon, and watch
the fishermen get busy on the boat. The
smell of fish, the wind, the swell… while
the tide lasts, you’ll discover what it’s
like to be a fisherman. “It’s a good
opportunity to meet tourists, who realise
that our job is not so easy. It is also good
to highlight our profession. People ask a
lot of questions about fishing techniques
and the fish that we catch”, says Jean-Pierre
Biarrotte, who is proud to share his daily
life with you.
n Contact :
bateau « le Toune » – Ponton B
avenue du Président Georges Pompidou
Port de Capbreton – 40130 Capbreton.
Tél. : +33 (0)6 85 21 34 34.
29
wELL-BEINg
take care of
yoUrself oN
tHe caMpsites
WhetheralongtheAtlantic
coastorinland,inaddition
tobeingclosetonatureand
providingafeelingoffreedom,
Aquitaine’scampsites
alsoofferincreasingly
sophisticatedfacilitiesfor
yourwell-being.Spas,
Jacuzzis,saunasandbeauty
treatmentcentresmakethem
true“open-airhotels”.
© Sunelia camping la pointe du médoc
In the
summer,
SPA at the pointe du Médoc
Between the Verdon beach, which opens onto the Gironde
estuary and the ocean beaches, the Sunêlia campsite at the
Pointe du Médoc opened an Adriana Karembeu spa in 2012,
in an area designed specifically for relaxation: with a hydromassage bath and relaxing treatment in the refined treatment
rooms, enjoy the zen garden with plants, the Turkish bath or
the outdoor Jacuzzi.
n Sunêlia La Pointe du Médoc – Route de la pointe de Grave
33123 Le Verdon-sur-Mer.
Tél. : +33 (0)5 56 73 39 99.
www.camping-lapointedumedoc.com
BALneoTheRAPY
along the Gironde coast
Located near two kilometres of beaches to the north
of the Gironde coast, the CHM Monta naturist resort
invites you to spend some time at its thermal baths, an
area made completely of wood with a sauna, a Turkish
bath and a large balneotherapy bath heated to 32°C.
After a hot bath with essential oils, relax in the herbal
tea room then choose from the many treatments
offered: facial, mud wrap, scrub…
n CHM Monta – 46 Avenue de l’Europe
33930 Vendays-Montalivet.
Tél. : +33 (0)5 56 73 73 73.
www.chm-montalivet.com
© Régis Duvignau
© SARL Domaine Laborde - Camping Fontaine du Roc
WELL-BEINg AREA
RELAxINg MASSAgES
in the land of fortified
villages
At the edges of Périgord and the Agenais,
the Laborde and Fontaine du Roc campsites
are located 12 kilometres from one another,
in a wooded area with oak and chestnut
trees. Both offer a sauna, Jacuzzi and Turkish bath as well as the possibility to book
a relaxing massage, which can be performed outdoors, in harmony with nature. So,
how can you choose between these two places? You should know that Laborde is a
naturist resort which also has an indoor subtropical pool heated to 28°C…
in the Landes
Ideally situated opposite Biscarrosse lake, La Rive campsite
awaits you in the heart of the pine forest, 10 kilometres
from the centre of Biscarrosse. Next to the swimming
pools, experience the atmosphere of the well-being area. Let
yourself be pampered in one of the treatment rooms or enjoy
the sauna, the Turkish bath and the spa.
n Camping resort & spa La Rive
route de Bordeaux – 40600 Biscarrosse.
Tél. : +33 (0)5 58 78 12 33. www.larive.fr
30
© eSe Communication
n Domaine Laborde – Paulhiac – 47150 Monflanquin.
Tél. : +33 (0)5 53 63 14 88. www.domainelaborde.com
n Camping Fontaine du Roc – « Les Moulaties » – Devillac – 47210 Villeréal.
Tél. : +33 (0)5 53 36 08 16. www.fontaineduroc.com
In the winter,
wELL-BEINg
let yoUrself be paMpered
at tHe foot of tHe pyreNees
Afteralongdayontheskislopes,ahikeinsnowshoesorastrollintheforest,whatcould
bebetterthanadipinapoolfilledinthermalwaterfollowedbyarelaxingmassage?From
Béarntothefootofthepistes,thereareplentyofplacestoseeandgoto.
AFTeR-SkI TReATMenT
in the ossau valley
At the foot of the Gourette and Artouste ski resorts, the Valvital
thermal baths at Eaux Bonnes welcome you in a unique setting
with Second Empire architecture. After a long day on the
pistes, relax in the pool which is bathed in light and enjoy the
benefits of the special treatment for sports enthusiasts, including
a jet shower, a facial with essential oils as well as a “heavy legs
treatment”, perfect for preparing for your next achievements on
the slopes.
© Alain Baschenis
n Thermes Valvital – 64440 Eaux-Bonnes.
Tél. : +33 (0)5 59 05 34 02. www.valvital.fr
ReLAxInG In A GueST RooM in the Béarn region
© Domaine de Lespoune
A beautiful 18th century mansion just a few kilometres from Navarrenx, Domaine Lespoune is a real
haven of peace. Inside, a relaxation room has been created for massages given by professionals (with
prior booking necessary). You also have access to the sauna to help release the tension from the day.
Outside, spend a relaxing time in the spa in the park opposite the Navarrenx ramparts and the Pyrenees.
n Domaine Lespoune – Yves et Nicole Everaert - 20, rue camblong – 64190 Castetnau-Camblong.
Tél. : +33 (0)5 59 66 24 14. - www.lespoune.fr
BAThS AnD TReATMenTS
FRoM ARounD The WoRLD
SPA,
BALneoTheRAPY
AnD FITneSS
in Pau and Laruns
© G. Bonnaud
n Les Bains de Secours – Chemin des bains –
64260 Sévignacq Meyracq. Tél. : +33 (0)6 29 34 21 98.
www.bien-etre-en-pyrenees.com
in Salies-de-Béarn
© oT Salies de Béarn
At the borders of the Pyrenees National Park, the Bains de Secours offer
peace and quiet in the setting of an old thermal establishment. Enjoy
treatments combining ferruginous water and treatments from around
the world (Ayurvedic, Thai, Hawaian). The “after-hiking” plan will seduce
skiers and hikers who will end up relaxing in the Turkish bath or bathing
in an old marble bath.
Located in a listed national monument,
the thermal spa at Salies-de-Béarn
will allow you to enjoy the benefits of
thermal water with ten times more salt
than sea water, and 26 micro-nutrients.
Discover the relaxing and stimulating
virtues of this water at Bains de la
Mude, a fun thermal facility with a Turkish bath, sauna, Californian bath
and two pools for water aerobics and water biking.
n Thermes de Salies-de-Béarn – Cours du Jardin Public –
64270 Salies-de-Béarn.
Tél. : +33 (0)5 59 38 10 11. www.thermes-de-salies.com
31
FITNESS
WalkingthroughSauterne’svineyards,surfinginthebestspotsalong
theLandesbeaches,visitingthePerigordregion’sfortifiedvillages
onhorse-back…InAquitaine,practiceyourfavouritesportinvaried
andpicturesquelandscapes.
Sports
get-aways
iN
aqUitaiNe
Surfing
along the Landes coast
Béarn and the Basque
country,
land of golf
It is in the Pyrenees-Atlantiques that
you will find the continent’s oldest golf
courses. About ten courses are at your
disposal, it’s up to you to choose which
one you prefer.
Rustic feel at the foot of the Pyrenees?
If you play at the Epherra golf course in
Souraïde, then you’ll be staying at the
Argi Eder hotel in Aïnhoa, one of the
most beautiful villages in France.
Chic and exclusive? Head to Saint-Jeande-Luz to play the prestigious Chantaco
golf course. At the foot of the Rhune, the
greens that you walk across were once
graced by Charlie Chaplin and the Prince
of Wales! Stay in this historic atmosphere
by staying at the Grand Hôtel Loreamar in
Saint-Jean-de-Luz, which offers “Golf and
Spa” holidays in a Belle Epoque setting.
La Gravière, Les Bourdaines, Le
Santocha, La Piste, Casanova… To check
the surfing conditions at these legendary
spots along the coast, check the webcams
set up all along the Silver Coast, between
Biscarrosse to the north and Capbreton
to the south. Stop off in Hossegor, the
European surfing capital. This is where
the French Surfing Federation has its
headquarters in an ecological building
which blends in to the dune.
Keep with the surfing spirit by staying
at the Natural Surf Camp, sponsored
by the Federation and located close to
the Casernes beach spot in Seignosse.
There, Claire and Stéphane will give you
lessons to try and imitate champions
who visit each year for the “Quicksilver
Pro”, an event of the surfing world
championships.
n USEFUL INFORMATION:
CDT des Landes – 4 avenue Aristide Briand
40000 Mont-de-Marsan.
Tél. : +33 (0)5 58 06 89 89.
www.tourismelandes.com.
bicycle tourism
in Duras country
Did you enjoy the via verde between
Bordeaux and Sauveterre-de-Guyenne?
Well, don’t stop now! Prolong your
itinerary in the Lot-et-Garonne via the
Duras country: visit the medieval castle
in Duras then have a picnic on the path
for discovering the Maison des vins de
Duras. Let yourself be guided towards the
Garonne valley by the soft slopes scattered
with vineyards and Ente prune orchards.
Stop off in the village of Gontaud-deNogaret to admire the market building, the
Close to hotels and shops in the city centre, le
Phare golf course in Biarritz enjoys stunning
views of the Atlantic ocean and La Rhune
Mountain.
32
© Le Doaré
CDT Béarn Pays Basque – Petite Caserne
2 allée des Platanes – 64100 Bayonne.
www.tourisme64.com
castle, the church and the cloister. At Masd’Agenais, you’ll find another via verde, that
of the canal de Garonne. Will you head
towards Agen to the east, or Marmande
to the west? Perhaps you should sleep on
it, so stay at the Dormeur du Val guest
house, located just a stone’s throw from
Saint-Vincent Collegiate, which houses
Rembrandt’s Crucifixion of Christ.
CDT du Lot-et-Garonne
271, rue de Péchabout – 47000 Agen.
Tél. : +33 (0)5 53 66 14 14.
www.tourisme-lotetgaronne.com
hours each day, with a horse-riding tourism
guide. On the way you’ll cross the village
of Beaumont-du-Périgord and its fortified
church, the Saint-Avit-Sénieur abbey-church,
listed on Unesco’s World Heritage list or the
château de Montferrand-du-Périgord.
For logistics, everything is taken care of: a
van will carry your equipment and personal
belongings for each stage. Feeling exhausted
after a day spent on your horse? Let yourself
be pampered at the Coteau de Belpech,
a guest house in Beaumont-du-Périgord,
offering massages and a spa with a panoramic
view of the Couze valley.
© Smavlot / CRTA
© Le Doaré
FITNESS
house, which organizes strolls through
the Sauternais vineyards. Begin the trail in
Bommes, on the banks of the Ciron, a river
without which the botrytis cinerea, a socalled “noble fungus” which is essential to
Sauternes wine, could not exist. And then
admire the splendid wine-making properties
nearby, the château de Rayne-Vigneau,
which proudly stands on a rounded hilltop,
the famous château d’Yquem or château
Raymond-Lafon, which won a mention
by the 2012 Best of Wine Tourism in the
“architecture, parks, and gardens” category.
Visit its remarkable gardens, with tropical
plants, palm trees and rare plants, then end
the day with a tasting – aperitif offered by
your host at the Peyraguey Maison Rouge
guest house, which regularly organizes
oenology initiation courses.
CDT de la Dordogne – 25 rue Wilson –
24000 Périgueux. Tél. : +33 (0)5 53 35 50 24.
www.dordogne-perigord-tourisme.fr
Hike
through the prestigious
Sauternais vineyards.
On the left bank of the Garonne, stay
at the Peyraguey Maison Rouge guest
On horse-back
in the land of fortified
villages
© OT Périgueux / CRTA
Between the Lot and Dordogne valleys, the
Bride du Cazal horse-riding centre welcomes
you just a kilometre from the fortified village
of Monpazier, a jewel of medieval architecture
and one of the most beautiful villages in
France. For this fortified village circuit in
“Purple” Perigord, you’ll ride for four to five
Office de tourisme Sauternes & Graves –
11 allée Jean Jaurès – 33210 Langon.
Tél. : +33 (0)5 56 63 68 00.
www.sauternais-graves-langon.com
33
qUIz
do yoU kNow Aquitaine ?
Withthehelpofcluesandphotos,answerthequestions
ofthisquizanddiscover,orre-discovertherichheritage,
cuisineandhistoryofAquitaine.
What is a Béarnais
christening?
Dipping the new-born’s lips in Jurançon
wine then rubbing
them with garlic.
b Pouring Madiran
wine on his
forehead.
C Adding a drop of
eau-de-vie to the
holy water.
1
© MonNuage / CRTA
Index: in the eyes of
gascons, wine should
be used as an antiseptic
after birth.
2
What certification
does the Adour kiwi have?
An AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée).
An IgP (Indication géographique Protégée
[Protected geographical Indication]).
C An IgP and the Label rouge.
A
b
Index: the Adour kiwi combines superior quality and a
strong regional identity.
4
How many representations of
mammoths are present in the
Rouffignac caves?
3
In the novel by eugène le
Roy, where was Jacquou le
Croquant locked up?
A 3.
Roughly 10.
Roughly 100.
b
C
Index: Rouffignac cave is the largest decorated
cave in the Perigord region.
A In the medieval fortress of
Salignac-Eyvigues.
b At Herm Castle.
C In the dungeon of Commarque
Castle, in Eyzies.
© Thinkstock
© grotte de Rouffigac
A
5
Index: the Castle overlooks the Barade forest in
“Black” Perigord.
The town of Agen has been
organising a cultural and gourmet
festival since 2005 called:
Le grand Pruneau Show.
The Tomato Fiesta.
The Strawberries, Flowers and Wine Fair.
A
b
A
RT
/C
C
te
Index: Agen gave its name to this Lot-et-garonne
speciality.
it
6
What can you see on this photo?
A
b
C
A modern art museum.
The wine warehouse of a wine-making château.
A concert hall with incredible acoustics.
Index: this building is located near Saint-Emilion.
C
7
© SIBA - B.RUIZ
hB
ri g
© photos Erick Saillet
©B
loc
The Tillole is the same as:
The galupe, a traditional boat with a flat
bottom used to descend the Huchet river in
the Landes.
b The gabarre, a barge once used to carry
merchandise along the Dordogne river.
The Pinasse, a long and thin boat, typical of
the Bay of Arcachon.
A
Index: the Tillole can take you to Banc d’Arguin.
and underground warehouse at the château Cheval Blanc, first vintage listed as Saint-Emilion, were designed by the architect Christian de
Portzamparc. 7C It is possible to travel around the Bay of Arcachon with an electric Pinasse, or Tillole, an ecological and silent craft.
while the Strawberries, Flowers and Wine Fair is organized each year in Sainte-Bazeille, also in the Val de garonne. 6b The fermenting room
kiwi to have both the Label Rouge / IgP certifications. 3b In the summer, enjoy a sound and light show at Herm Castle. 4C Listed on Unesco’s
World Heritage list, Rouffignac cave has 226 representations, including 158 mammoths. 5A The Tomato Fiesta takes place in Marmande,
1A For gascons, garlic represented universal medicine, used for all contagions and as an antidote for poison. 2C The Adour kiwi is the only
Answers:
34
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