Faraday Motion – Hyperboard R2

Faraday Motion – Hyperboard R2 General notes ● Dead man switch reed sensor should be mounted sideways as this to our experience triggers it more easy (text label should be pointing to the side, not upwards) ● Pre drill all holes ● Use loctite for all motor bracket parts ● Double check correct screw length. A few screws needs manual shortening. Belts need to be quite tight ● Strip all cables in the motor compartment ● Ensure motor cables are all plugged in before applying heat shrink ● Be careful with screws for the battery wings, depending on length they can penetrate the plastic and be cutting up cables or electronics, better to mount the wings before adding electronics to the inside of the board ● Some cables contain 5v and some 29,6v be careful not to mix them up, especially in the back motor compartment, it will burn the electronics ● Not all pcb's contain proper labels, consult the documentation or Sune ([email protected]) for clarification whenever in doubt ● Always be in close approximation while charging ● Follow the rule “Male connectors have voltage, female receive voltage” ● Use lead solder (if allowed) it makes soldering so much easier ● Put duct tape over the cable side of the battery wings before mounting them on the board ● Batteries are coupled in series giving 29,6 v, not dangerous for humans ● Full 29,6 voltage goes to controllers, then to the powersupply converting it to 5V, then the powersupply supply all the to the computers and the rest of the electronics with 5V. Be aware that it is possible to connect full 29,6 voltage in the back compartment to the wrong connector and fry the electronics. Be aware only to put the 29,6 V to the bottom part of the power supply. Charging ●
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Do not let uninstructed people touch the charger at any time! Make sure the configuration of the charger is as follows (This is stored as a program in the load menu) ○ Balance mode ○ 4 cells ○ 14,8v ○ Max 5amps Take care not to short battery cables ●
When unplugging charged batteries from the charger, unplug the battery cable, not the end that goes in the charger Driving ●
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Connect the wifi to the board, before starting the app Put the phone in flight mode when driving Ensure auto locking of the phone is set to never Beware of water – electronics nano covered, but not 100% water­proof Carefull with rare app situations, check our forums for current known issues Double check axle screws regularly, it will result in speed wobble if they are not tight and it can throw off riders Inform people not to step on the back motor unit! Carry the vehicle like luggage with the back handle Max allowed weight 120kg Stop riding instantly if batteries seem weak (performance drops) Always assist new riders with their first experience, hold them on their shoulder, assist with handling the controller Always unplug cables when the vehicle is not in use for a period (i.e. 1hour) Wear safety gear when driving (at least helmet) If people only stand on the battery wings and not the deck itself, they could potentially break of the board (never did happen, but still) Assembly of parts Batteries (some pictures are of older versions of the battery packs, so minor details might be different) Bottom shield (older version, so not 100% identical assembly) ●
Put hot glue or other solid stuff in the most outer holes all along both sides of the deck, the purpose is to have something solid to screw the shields into. Sensor pads ●
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Press the inner part in the outer part, if the parts go in difficult, a hammer can be used with a book in between the parts. The sensor pads are just mounted on top of the lean sensors, use i.e. some double sided tape to make sure it sits on the right spot. Lean sensor ●
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Cut 10x pieces at the right size for a sensor of velostat Put 10 layers stacked on top of eachother ●
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Put the layers between two pieces of paper Use an iron with almost max heat (no steam) to weld the 10 pieces together to one part ●
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Put double sided tape on the plastic piece for the sensor Put copper tape in the middle of the piece, not covering the end holes in the plastic Solder a cable to one of the ends ●
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Place the velostat sensor material on top of the copper tape Put a cable over the velostat sensor as shown here The wire going out in the one end should be connected to the copper tape The wire going out in the other end should be connected to the wires going over the velostat sensor and not touching any of the copper ●
Put duct tape on top of the velostat and wrap it around the other side ●
Use a roller for making the duct tape stick well to the sensor and keep the wires in place ●
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Sensors are all done, the pads are placed on top of the sensor when mounted on the board Check with a voltmeter the amount of ohms on the sensor, it might however change during the first few weeks ●
Lean LED ●
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Put the led in the part like shown above DIN needs to be towards the bottom piece Solder white to DIN Solder red to VCC Solder black to GND ●
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Place the outer holder on the board for the lean LED, use epoxy for making sure it sticks well as the gopro mount can pull off the part from the deck. Drill a hole in the bottom inner part where the cable is sticking out. ●
Press in the lean LED while pulling out the cable in the bottom. No glue should be needed as it should be a tight fit. Dead man switch ●
Put the sensor in the compartment, note that our tests showed that when the sensor is placed with the text direction towards the side it was responding better to the magnets ●
Glue the metal spacer in the plastic piece ●
Solder cables to both ends of the sensor and put on connectors to the other ends that goes will go to the power switch Front lights ●
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Place the leds right next to each other with the arrows pointing in one direction I typically use some clay like material to position the leds in a fixed position The center LED needs to be on top, the side led’s right under Solder the overlapping holes in the middle ●
Solder cables between all the holes in one side and then do the same in the other side ●
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Solder a 3 pin connector cable to the one of the led’s red to plus, black to GND, white to the bottom of the led, DIN (arrow direction in) On the other led the white cable needs to be on the top DOUT (arrow direction away), and a cable (typically yellow if avail) to DIN (arrow direction in) ●
Hot glue the lights as seen in the picture, the led with 3 cables goes to the left side, the one with 4 cables goes to the right side ●
Wrap cable sleeve around the wires to protect them and hot glue it tight to the top piece of the front like shown above Front unit ●
Put the bottom plastic piece like this ●
Then put the top piece like this ●
Put the end plastic parts like this and start using the smallest screws to mount all parts ●
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The front part will be mounted like this But do not mount it before putting the front bolts like shown below ●
Put in the bolts, and use hot glue to lock them into position ●
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This is how the unit looks when its fully screwed together Big screws are used from the sides for the caliper holders Once the wheels are mounted its possible to put on the calipers, alternatively its possible to unscrew all bottom screws and then mount the complete unit with the axle, discs and wheels ●
The front piece needs to be mounted after the calipers and the servos are mounted, otherwise its not possible to get them in place. ●
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This is how the unit looks when its fully screwed together Big screws are used from the sides for the caliper holders Once the wheels are mounted its possible to put on the calipers, alternatively its possible to unscrew all bottom screws and then mount the complete unit with the axle, discs and wheels Back unit Electronics location Electronics Yun board Teensy board Note: The connectors point in the wrong direction in this schematics picture Hall sensor board (x2) Power Switch/current sensor USB charger Capacitor board Board unit Assembly See our forums: http://www.faradaymotion.com/forums/ http://www.faradaymotion.com/forums/topic/cleaning­inside­of­board­to­give­space­for­electr
onics/ Back part assembly Top enclosure for the controllers Adding bluetooth unit Note: The rubber pieces are also inserted Adding motorcontrollers and capacitors Motor controller cabling http://www.faradaymotion.com/forums/topic/goblin­motor­controller­cabling/ Proper tension of motors/ belts Use hands or a clamp like the one shown here, not too tight, and not too loose. Motor connectors Right back light unit Pay attention to the numbers that specify the order Completed left light unit Left back light unit Final cabling of compartment Exploded view from the top Custom pressure sensors http://www.faradaymotion.com/forums/topic/goblin­making­custom­pressure­sensors/ Technical details Power connectors Male always has power Female always recieves power Motorcontroller – Serial connection to Teensy board Black – gnd Skin color – tx Green ­ rx Teensy board – Serial Connection to Motorcontrollers Black – gnd White –rx Purple – tx Teensy – Kill arduino cable Orange – Arduino reset Voltage divider for power switch Series: Orange, Orange, Red (3.3k) Parrallel: Brown, Black, Red (1k) Motorcontroller – Hallsensor cable mapping None None Yellow Orange White Black None None Blue Green Yellow Black Motor hall sensor GND 5+ Temp A B C Brown Red Orange Yellow Green Blue