afghanistan - Urbane Nomads

afghanistan
URBAN E NOMADS
Trace the ancient caravan
route from the capital city of
Kabul to Balk (Bactria). Passing through Bamiyan Valley
(where the
Buddhas of Bamiyan were
located), take a day trip to the
lakes of Band-i-Amir, dubbed
by Time Magazine as being
“among the world’s least visited yet most dramatic natural
wonders”, that also went on
to describe the lakes as being
“preternaturally
pristine” and possessing a
“blueness of indescribably
intensity” before heading back
over the Shibar Pass in the
direction of the Hindu Kush,
Mazar-i-Sharif and Balkh. Then
turn back south through the
Salang Tunnel and return to
Kabul. From Kabul take a
round trip by air to Herat.
Tracing Ancient
Caravan Routes
Photo Courtesy of Sebastian Wendowski
URBAN E NOMADS
Day
1
Kabul
Day
2
Orientation in Kabul, beginning at the mausoleum of Nadir Shah. Situated on a hill above the stadium, this offers an
excellent vantage point, offering views of the Kabul River and the old city as well as the ancient fort of Bala Hissar.
The home of some of the most important kings and conquerors in the history of Afghanistan, the fort reputedly has
commanding views, as extolled by the Mogul Emperor Babur. Contemporary history has set Bala Hissar Fort as the
stage for battle between Massoud and Heekmatyar’s forces in the 1990s. (Note: Visitors are no longer allowed into
the fortress due to the prevalence of unexploded land mines).
Arrive in Kabul. We’ll have you based at one of the city’s new hotels.
From the mausoleum, descend into the old city and the Shor Bazaar. Heavily shelled during the 1990s, the bazaar has
come back to life and its alleys are full of Oriental bustle. We follow the Kabul River, stopping to see the Mausoleum
of Timur Shah and the two-storied Mosque, then continuing to the ruins of Darulaman Palace. Built by King
Amanullah in 1923, Darulaman was intended to be the new political centre of Kabul, but today the palace is an
empty shell. To one side is the Kabul Museum. Once hailed as one of the most impressive collections in Asia; war,
looting and the Taliban have left the museum impoverished. Some of the stolen exhibits have been recovered and
fresh archeological finds are slowly rebuilding the collection – there are some Greek/Bactrian and Buddhist artifacts
worth seeing. Heading back towards the old city, we will stop for a picnic lunch at the Gardens of Babur, just outside
the ancient city walls. Named after the same Mogul Emperor, one-time habitue of Bala Hissar and who had so
lyrically waxed about the views from the fort, Emperor Babur was transported here to be buried according to his
wishes. The gardens have recently been reconstructed and re-created according to its original 16th century plans as
far as is possible, creating a haven in the city centre once again.
Later in the afternoon, go shopping in Chicken Street, stopping by the store of the Bookseller of Kabul.
Day 3 onwards sees us travelling by jeep throughout Afghanistan.
URBAN E NOMADS
Day
3
Bimiyan valley
Day
4
Tragically, after the destruction of the large and small Buddhas by the Taliban, the huge niches stand empty. The piles
of rubble at the bottom have been collected and sorted, but will not be reconstructed. However, there is still much to
see. The niches themselves are still clearly visible across the town, and remain impressive at over 60m and 40m high. A
complex of stairways and caves winds its way up the side of each niche, and some frescoes remain on the walls. Above
each niche is an open gallery which connects the cave complexes on each side. Preservation work has been carried out
on the niches and caves and fresh archaeological work is being carried out on the site.
Early morning drive out of the Kabul valley up over the Koh-iBaba (Grandfather of Mountains) range through the Shibar Pass
descending into the Bamiyan valley. The road up to the pass is
lined with picturesque villages, colorful pennant adorned shires
of local holy men, ancient Qala (forts) and Caravanserai (rest
stops for Camel caravans). The road down from the pass offers
dramatic views of the surrounding snow caped peaks and
eventually winds into a tight canyon with cliff faces jutting up
several hundred meters on either side. Finally the road breaks
out of the canyon with stunning views of Shari Zohak (also
known as the Red City) perched atop the red cliffs poised to
defend the Bamiyan valley from invasion. Accommodation in a
hotel on the hill overlooking the Buddhist site.
Rise early to view the Buddha niches in the changing light as the sun rises over the Bamiyan valley. Spend the
morning exploring the cave complex built into the face of the cliff surrounding the small Buddha and then head for a
picnic lunch in the shaded lawns that line the bubbling brooks of Foladi Canyon. Afternoon visits to Shari Ghulghula
(City of Screams), destroyed by Genghis Khan after a local princess out of jealousy gave away the secret entryway to
this fortified city, and Kakrak Valley, location of hundreds of caves, sculptures and paintings on the walls of the valley
made by the Buddhist inhabitants who dwelled in this valley centuries ago.
URBAN E NOMADS
Day
5
Bimiyan valley
A day, side-trip to Band-i-Amir lakes, aforementioned lakes that have been extolled by Time Magazine as being “among
the world’s least visited yet most dramatic natural wonders”. A conglomeration of five lakes, dip your toes in its rich
mineral content- the waters are believed to be able to cure one of madness; one of the more frequent accusations
levelled at you by friends, family and loved ones for venturing into Afghanistan.
On the way back to Bamiyan, we will stop at Darya Ajdahar –the Valley of the Dragon. Legend has it that many years
ago, a dragon lived in this valley, terrorising the people of Bamiyan, who placated him with a daily offering of two
camels and a beautiful girl. The dragon’s reign was ended by Hazrat Ali, who split him in two with his sword. The
dragon-shaped rock that can be seen in the valley today is split with a 300m fissure, and from the “head”, the dragon’s
tears are still pouring out in the form of mineral springs. The groans of the dragon can be heard by placing an ear close
to the fissure.
Day
6
Kabul
Travel from Bamiyan via Shibar Pass and then back to Kabul.
Accommodation in a Hotel in Kabul.
Photo Courtesy of Hotel Silk Road
URBAN E NOMADS
Day
7
Mazar-i-sharif
Drive north through the Salang Pass to Pul-i-Khumri and from there on to
Mazar-i-Sharif. At Samangan, we will stop to see the Buddhist stupa known
locally as Takht-i-Rustam (“Rustam’s Throne”). At the base of the hill is a
monastery complex consisting of five caves. Local people prefer to believe
that the mound and caves mark the location of the wedding of the semimythical Sogdian hero Rustam to the daughter of the King of Samangan,
Takhmina.
In the afternoon, we will arrive at Mazar-i-Sharif, and stay in a hotel in the
centre, close to the shrine of Hazrat Ali (one of the four Caliphs whom local
lore attributes as the dragon-slayer at your previous stop).
Day
8
Dominated by the mosque and shrine for which the city is named. The cult
of Hazrat Ali similarly dominates the lores of this part of Afghanistan as the
mosque is believed to be the tomb of Hazrat Ali and is visited throughout
the year by countless pilgrims. The shrine, constructed in 1481, is decorated
in blue tile and is the most beautiful building in Afghanistan. As well as being
an important religious centre, Mazar is famous for its rugs and carpets, which
are sold in the shops around the shrine.
Next to Mazar-i-Sharif is the city of Balkh, the city forgotten in favour of
Mazar-i-Sharif but was once used as the base of operations by names as
various as Alexander the Great to Aurangzeb. Dubbed the ‘Mother of Cities’,
the city was variously sacked by Genghis Khan and Timur Lane, although it
later enjoyed a revival under the latter. One building of note is the
Masjid-i-No Gumbad (“Mosque of the Nine Domes”), constructed early in
the 9th century. Only a few examples of mosque architecture from this early
period exist anywhere in the world. Return to Mazar in the evening.
URBAN E NOMADS
Day
9
Kabul
Day
10
Herat
Day
11-12
Photo Courtesy of Yan Boechat
Travel south from Mazar-i-Sharif through the Salang Pass (3,363 m) to
Kabul. The Salang Tunnel, constructed by the Soviet Union (1958-1964), is
2.7 Km long with an additional 5 Km of galleries to keep the approaches
free from snow. Upon descending into the Shamoli plain we will visit the
hillside village of Istalif, which combines beautiful scenery with the charm
of Afghan village life. The Takht (“throne”) was a favourite picnic spot of
Babur. The village is famous for its colourful glazed pottery and it is
possible to see the potters at work. We will then leave the village behind
and head back into the bustling capital city of Kabul.
Fly with your guide to Herat. We will begin our tour of Heart at the
Takht-i-Safar (the Traveller’s Throne) for a panoramic view of the city at
sunset. Accommodation in a Hotel.
Herat, as it is known today, first appeared in history as Aria during the Achaemenid Empire founded by Cyrus the Great.
Perhaps no one has described this city more vividly than Nancy Hatch Dupree when she writes that it “reflects the
cultures of Iran, Central Asia and Afghanistan for it is the pivot around which these areas spin. Many ethnic groups,
Persian, Pushtun, Uzbek, Turkoman, Baluch and Hazara, mingle in the crowded bazaars which display the full range of
their handicrafts. In addition to this richly mixed fabric of modern Afghanistan, Herat also contains superlative vestiges
of a brilliant past when kings and queens, acknowledged suzerains from China’s borders to the Tigris River, lavished
their loving attention on this city.” This statement is as true today as it was when she wrote it some thirty five years ago.
The city with its university and tree lined boulevards maintains an air of independence with a population of artisans and
academics who are proud of its rich history. The tour of Heart will include visits to the Citadel, Minarets and Mausoleum
of Gawhar Shad, Masjid-i-Jami (Friday Mosque) and tile workshop, Musalla complex, Sufi Shrine of GazarGah, and the
Old City. We will also spend time exploring the cities bazaars full of handicrafts, antiques and the city’s famed
hand-blown blue glass.
URBAN E NOMADS
Day
13
Kabul
Day
14
Day trip outside of Kabul to the beautiful Panjshir Valley, where we will picnic by the Panjshir River and visit the grave
of the famous Muyahadin leader Ahmed Shah Masoud. This day trip is a highlight for many travelers as they will be
impressed with the rugged terrain and dramatic canyons that were the heroic battlefields of the anti-Soviet resistance.
Day
15
Fly out of Kabul to Dubai .
Fly back to Kabul. Afternoon free time to explore the bazaars at your own leisure. Car and translator will be available to
take you to various bazaars.
URBAN E NOMADS
Total Price (Indicative Only):
mazar-i-s h ari f
bam iyan
h erat
kabul
per person on double occupancy basis
Price includes:
All domestic transfers and tours mentioned.
Accommodations and meals specified.
Price excludes:
All gratuities and tips, tours not mentioned
and items of a personal nature.
URBAN E NOMADS
Important Notes
Trip Grading/Difficulty:
This itinerary is done at a relaxed pace, with no strenuous or overtly physical activities and is suitable for all ages.
Flights:
It is essential that you give us your air schedule at least 60 days prior to departure, so that we may confirm your
arrival and departure hotels.
Health:
You are strongly advised to contact your own GP or vaccination centre in respect of required vaccinations for
Afghanistan. Check on recommended immunizations as least a month before travel. Among the items you might
pack are: sun creams (factor 12 and above), insect repellent, sting relief cream, antiseptic cream,
a lightweight hat and sunglasses.
Important Note:
While we endeavor to make the itinerary as accurate as possible, it should be considered an approximate schedule
of activities rather than a rigid schedule of events. Trip itineraries are subject to revision due to weather, road and
trail conditions, government restrictions and other factors beyond our control.
URBAN E NOMADS
Booking Conditions
Booking your tailor-made holiday:
A booking is accepted only after we receive the completed signed booking form and/or the non-refundable deposit
required. If the booking is made within 60 days of departure, then full payment is required at the time of confirmation
except over the Christmas & New Year period when the full itinerary amount must be made at the time of booking.
The balance of payment due for your travel arrangements must bepaid by you not later than 60 days before departure;
otherwise we may treat the booking as cancelled.
Methods of payment:
Payments for deposits and final monies for Travel Arrangements may be made by bank transfer.
Cancellation:
All cancellations must be advised in writing and will take effect the day we receive it. Urbane Nomads refunds all
recoverable costs after cancellation, subject to third-party cancellation and refund policies and a USD500
administration and travel planning fee.
In some cases hotels require prepayment in full for hotel rooms and services in the peak period. In such cases these
deposits are non refundable.
Travel Insurance
It is a condition of booking the Travel Arrangements that You are adequately insured for the full duration of the your
travel arrangements in respect of illness, injury, death, loss of baggage and personal items, cancellation and
curtailment. The choice of insurer is the sole discretion of You. In signing the Booking Form or paying for your holiday
you confirm to us that you either have or will have procured such insurance before the commencement of your
travel arrangements.
Further Terms and Conditions apply. In signing the Booking Form or paying the deposit you confirm to us that you
have accepted the booking terms and conditions.