The Volcano House Register - University of Hawaiʻi at Hilo

The Volcano House Register
This is a transcript of the Volcano House Register, comprising 10 volumes covering the
years 1865 to 1955. The volumes covering the years 1923-1926 and 1940-1945 are
missing.
The original intention was to keep a record of eruptions of Kilauea and Mauna Loa, since
the hotel was located in a spot ideal for volcano watching. To this end, O.H. Gulick
donated the first blank volume of the Volcano House Register.
Travelers and passersby are requested by the donor of this book to record their
names in it and to note all, or any, volcanic phenomena that may come under their
notice during their stay or at the time of their visit. By so doing, this record may
become of great value, some years hence, to the scientific world.
O.H. Gulick, 2 Feb 1865
Many visitors followed Gulick's instructions, while others wrote descriptions of the
countryside or praisedthe hotel; some wrote poetry, and others merely signed their names.
Over the years, of course, the Register volumes became progressively worn out as
visitors repeatedly thumbed through the pages, spilled coffee, and stole entries with
important signatures. The purpose of this transcript is to make the contents of the
Register available to the public, both on computer disk and in print, so that people can
read what was written without having to thumb through the badly disintegrating volumes
themselves. Because the transcript is on computer disk, it will allow a person to quickly
have the computer search for any event or ancestor. Unless, of course, your name is Dr.
Hadkiocka.
Formats
There are several different type faces used in this transcript, each for a specific purpose.
Plain text always represents the words written by the Volcano House Register writers
themselves. Italicized text always designates editorial comments by the transcriber. Bold
text is used to highlight newspaper articles or illustrations, which include the page
number they can be found on for the respective volume. In the Register, of course, dates
of entries are written in a variety of ways and locations. In the transcript, they are
presented in European style: date, month, year; and are always located below the
corresponding entry, as is the signature.
Signatures and Illegible Entries
The main difficulty in transcribing this work was deciphering semi-legible handwriting.
Often, "illegible" words would become apparent by reading the context, but sometimes
this method failed; in such cases, either italicized editorial comments or a blank ____
indicate the illegible word. These blanks also indicate places where the page was torn or
ink smeared over the writing. There are a few cases in which a large portion of an entry is
illegible and the rest of it is dull or unimportant anyway; such cases are referred to in
italics as "semi-legible" entries. Most of the foreign entries are indechiperable to anyone
not fluent in the language. The transcriber is fluent only in English; hence these entries
are noted but rarely transcribed.
Signatures are by far the most illegible, partly because there is no context to give a clue
and partly because people sign their names with elaborate flourishes. Many of the names
in this transcript, therefore, are only best guesses and no one should be offended at the
misspelling of a family name, for it was an honest mistake. Largely because of this
problem, any entries in which visitors merely signed their names without writing
anything else have been omitted. Often, several signatures appear after an entry in the
Register, or the author might mention his occupation or home town, sometimes listing
several towns of residence. In general, each entry in this transcript contains only the
signature which best matches the handwriting of the entry, only one town, and no
occupation unless pertinent to the entry itself.
Deliberate Omissions of Text
Besides signatures, there are two other instances in which material in the Register was
deliberately omitted from this transcript. One is sentence fragments. Some writers only
put two or three words adjacent to their signatures, or would start a sentence and then
never finish. Example:
She is jealous because--cat!
Alice Haywood Bowen, 2 Sept 1918
The second type of deliberate omission is referred to in the transcript as "poor entries."
There are more appropriate adjectives than "poor," but politeness compels its use. The
poor entries include those that are incoherent, probably written by people who had too
much to drink; those describing cruelty to animals; and those using degrading slang terms
to describe other races. There are a few rare cases in which an entry was omitted simply
because the transcriber couldn't stand it--such as college cheers, corny poetry that was
obviously composed on the mainland and carried around to be copied into Guest
Registers encountered in travelling, and nonsense entries. Example:
The man in the moon came down to soon.
find date/sig
Every omission has been noted in italicized editorial comments and referenced by a page
number, so that every single entry in the Volcano House Register is either present or
accounted for. This applies as well to entries in foreign languages. Example:
On page 89, I omitted a poor entry and some fragments. On page 90, there is an entry in
German.
Alterations to Text
Despite these omissions, this transcript contains almost all of the entries in the Volcano
House Register, and to the extent that it was possible or reasonable, the writing has been
copied precisely, word for word. There are some cases, however, where this transcript
deviates from the actual Register. The first case is spelling. A lot of the spelling errors
have been corrected in this transcript, simply because it is irritating to read "dissapoint,"
and many errors are more like typos than true misspellings. Wrongly spelled words have
been left alone in several instances: when they add to the charm of the entry; when they
are needed to make subsequent comments understandable; when they are variations of
Hawaiian place-names whose history may some day be traced by such spellings. Related
to spelling, there are a couple of instances in which the word "degrees" was inserted in
place of the symbol, because the keyboard has no degree symbol. The second case is
punctuation. Like spelling, a lot of Volcano House Register punctuation has been fixed
up for the transcript to make it smoother to read. In no case has punctuation been changed
so as to alter the original meaning of the text--usually it amounts to placing apostrophes
in correct positions. Occasionally, periods have been inserted where none appear in the
original Register--this is the case in the earlier volumes where the ink has faded, but the
position of the period can be inferred by the shift to a capital letter for the beginning of a
new sentence. On the other hand, grammar and sentence structure have been pretty much
left alone, since they would require significant changes to the original writing which
would mar the integrity of this transcript.
This transcript is dedicated to Thomas Augustus Jaggar.
. After Mr. a
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There are many visitors who stay a week or longer at the volcano, there should be many
more, and there is little occupation for rainy days. These visitors sit in the writing room
of the Volcano House and pore over the recent hotel record books, which contain a very
little science, and a very large quantity of silly doggerel and vulgarity.
T.A.J., Annual Address of the Director, 7 April 1916
integrating volumes themselvesseveralhandlethey not fluent in the language. Thisones
"rysyyyyyyyyyyysyyyyyyy
ople who had too much to drink,unkind racial slang terms sentence and then never finish,
or would only
Oh! Yea!
signature illegible and no date; page 180, Volume 9
sW.S., 13 Oct 1919Selected Entries
From
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Concerning Eruptive Activity or Changes in Kilauea and Mauna Loa
partial hers merely signed their namesselected present only those entries that concern
eruptive activity or changes in Kilauea and Mauna Loa. Of course, some writing that is
not geological has been be included to give the context or to preserve the flavor of the
times; but most of the chaff has been sifted out.r ink smeared over the writingt was an
honest mistake.There are some cases
± Â─H;<=>L
Selected Entries From
The Volcano House Register, Volume 1
1865-1872
Concerning Eruptive Activity or Changes in Kilauea and Mauna Loa
Travelers and passersby are requested by the donor of this book to record their
names in it and to note all, or any, volcanic phenomena that may come under their notice
during their stay or at the time of their visit.
By so doing, this record may become of great value, some years hence, to the
scientific world.
The testimony of all those who visited the volcano of Kilauea years ago seems to
indicate that there was much greater activity apparent thirty or forty years ago, than there
is at present.
About the beginning of the present century tradition says that a party of warriors
from Hilo on their way to Kau under Keoua, a brother of Kamehameha I, were killed
while descending the slope from Kilauea to Kau, by the falling of a cloud of hot cinders
thrown out by the volcano. Keoua himself, taking a different road, with a part of his men,
escaped unharmed. This account is considered reliable and may be found in the histories
of these islands; and indicates a greater activity than at present witnessed.
In September 1863 a crack opened in the northern bank of the crater, varying from three
to six or eight feet in width, and being some miles in length. It was first observed by J.H.
Coney Esq. while on his way to Kau Sept. 6. It crossed the road from the Volcano House
to Kau upon the high land on the north side of the crater.
For some years past previous to 1863, the most of the fires visible were to be seen
at, or in the vicinity of, the lake, in the S.W. part of the crater, but in May or June 1863,
there was an extensive eruption in the northern part of the crater, which flowed over
perhaps one third of the whole basin of the crater, the fresh lava covering perhaps over a
thousand acres.
Since that time, the second or smaller lake at the northern side of the crater has
been formed--and seems to have become a permanent institution. The two lakes are
perhaps a mile and a half apart. There is more or less smoke issuing from many of the
cracks in a line between the two lakes.
The island that has been in the large lake for some time past has disappeared.
O.H. Gulick, 2 Feb 1865
Having been located in this vicinity for the year last past I have noticed that the
volcano has been in greater activity the last month than at any time throughout the last
year. Within the last few days jets of lava could be seen from the Volcano House during
the day, a circumstance not before observed.
The island spoken of by Mr. Gulick as having disappeared cannot be said to have
had any permanent location or size. In the first week of January I noticed the top of the
island was nearly on a level with the lake, and upon making a second visit the following
week it was located farther to the west bank and was about 10 feet above the level of the
lake. During the night which I spent down on my last visit, a large portion of the S.W.
banks caved off, how thick we were unable to say, but it extended the whole height of the
banks. The effect on the lake was terrible to view. It caused the whole surface of the lake
to heave up, occasioning an undulation compared to the oceans' swell. It was during the
excitement we were compelled to vacate our position owing to the intense heat and liquid
lava falling around us. Any persons making two visits to the lake can not fail to notice an
apparent change in some respect or other. From my several visits I am satisfied that the
crater is enlarging to the west. The whole north bank has settled some feet within the past
year.
J.B. Swain, 8 Feb 1865
The 21st Feby 1865 witnessed the arrival at the Volcano House of two pedestrian
travellers. The morrow was ushered in, in the most auspicious and favorable manner and
they eagerly set out for a visit to this world-renowned lake of molten lava. From a review
of the preceding accounts we should judge that its present action is spirited and of
unusual interest. To us the time seemed only too short and limited for a satisfactory study
of this stupendous, grand, and magnificent work of nature. We reserve our impressions
(in detail) hoping to have the pleasure of uniting them with others at some future day.
Collins Arnold, 21 Feb 1865
Visited the lakes of Kilauea on the 5th--found both of the lakes in unusual action
as stated to us by our guide (proprietor of the Volcano House)--particularly the larger one
near the west side of the basin, and the molten lava five or six fathoms higher than a few
days previous when he was there. It was boiling furiously in many places about the lake
and jets of liquid lava spouted at intervals into the air--some of them to a height of thirty
feet perpendicular affording a truly grand sight. The whole lake was in action and boiling
more or less around the entire edge of the same. Our view of the large lake was for two
hours, being from 10 A.M. to 12 noon....
J.A. Rawson, 4 March 1865
...Visited the crater this morning in company with Mr. Swain taking in on our
route the small lake on the north side. Found the small lake nearly on a level with the
large crater. After satisfying our curiosity there, made our way to the large lake. On our
arrival, it had the appearance of being very quiet. Whilst watching the different changes
as they presented themselves, our attention was directed to the west banks, by small
stones and rocks rolling down. It being evident that something unusual was about to
happen we continued our gaze when all at once the whole cliff pitched headlong into the
lake, causing the whole surface to break up, which continued disturbed for some 10
minutes. The sight was grand, and one not to be witnessed by every visitor, and during
the remainder of the time spent we were not gratified by the sight of anything
approaching the effect produced by the banks caving in.
After spending about two hours at the lake, retraced our steps arriving back to the
house at 2 o'clock p.m. well repaid for the journey.
A.S. Grinbaum, 11 March 1865
16th trip to Volcano. Arrived at this place, on an expedition after specimens,
March 21st 1865. Filled up by March 25th. Had one narrow escape from falling stones in
caves. One jof my boys had a boulder roll over his foot which had compelled him to hop
on one foot, was carried by my other men out of the crater. I have collected all sorts of
specimens and gone into all sorts of places. Old caverns have filled up and new ones have
opened, and this is happening all the time. The general features of the old lake about the
same, always a little change; more so now than formerly. The action under the Kau bank
is concealed under a crust which will break up before long. Leave this place for Hilo next
Monday.
H.R. Hitchcock, 21 March 1865
Mr. Fish who visited the volcano in 1861 thinking it was much more active at that
time than at the present, and finds much change in its appearance. During our stay of an
hour at the crater however we had the pleasure of seeing almost the entire lake covered at
one time with heaving molten lava.
L.A. Herendeen, 31 March 1865
Found the crater in a commendable state of activity. While watching it, a large
fissure opened about three-quarters of the distance towards the south and all of the larger
mass, seething and throwing up jets of molten lava to a height of 10 or 15 feet moved to
the south bank and dashed against it, moving about the island in the crater, which was
about 15 feet high by 25 feet long, a distance of some 15 or 20 feet....
Samuel C. Bigelow, San Francisco, Cal., and party, 12 April 1965
...The small island was crowded close under the cliff where we were standing.
The most magnificent action was near the bank on our left. While we were there a small
portion of that bank fell off into the lake....
B.G. Snow, 14 April, 1865
With the fourfold object of traversing the great lava flow of 1859 on the NW side
of Mauna Loa to its source--of ascertaining the position and dimensions of the great
terrestial crater on the summit of said mountain--of visiting the active crater of Kilauea-and of reaching Hilo, I left Kailua, Kona on foot, on Tuesday Ap. 11th accompanied by
Mr. Warner. We struck the government road that was made from the sea in a straight line
towards Hilo. Had a very muddy walk through the Kona forest and were much fatigued
when we reached the sheep farm of Mr. Chas Wall where we accepted of his hospitality,
kindly offered for the night.
Wed. the 12th. Started early and walked to the end of the straight road five miles,
where we met Mr. Chas. Hall according to appointment. He had with him three natives
whom he had engaged to assist us to the summit. This point where we rendezvoused is on
the flat between Mauna Hualalai and Mauna Loa and close to the new flow of 1859. We
got ready as soon as possible and went on the new lava which afforded excellent roadway
for many miles. At night we camped in a cosy grove near the highest point of timber and
were very comfortable, with plenty of dry wood for fire.
Thursday 13th. Our water which we found at the starting point of yesterday was
nearly gone. We reached the outlets of the new flow before noon. There are three or four
horrible longitudinal gashes with different vent holes in each. Those gashes are in a
straight line down the mountain. Above there is another line of openings also straight but
running a little further toward the south and smaller than the lower line. There also seems
to be one or two straggling openings on the north side of the main lines. All the openings
seem quite cool now, and appear to have finished off with tremendous showers of pumice
sand or gravel which fell more than a mile from its source at least. The lava near the
craters was exceedingly broken, hollow and treacherous and difficult if not dangerous to
walk upon. The progress of our motions today was solemnly slow. Mr. Warner and I
went ahead until we struck snow when we melted some of it in cups. Retracing our steps
a little we saw Mr. Hall far down. He fired a shot as a signal of distress and not seeing the
natives with him we reluctantly picked up our little traps and went down the mountain.
Mr. Hall informed us that the natives were some distance down still and that they had
given out and would go no further! It must have been about three miles from where we
retraced our steps to where the natives brought up. They were quite immovable and there
was no use looking for a better camping place. So with the thermometer at zero and our
natives the same, without shelter and without fire, with neither water nor supper we
prepared to spend a dreary night in the dreariest region we had ever seen. We spread our
blankets on the bare rock and tried to sleep but found it out of the question: but the
natives suffered more than we.
Friday 14th. Two natives returned, and we got into harness ourselves and carried
our possesions and other things. We soon reached the snow and rested after melting snow
for drinking. We found no vegetable nor animal life in the day's march. Before noon we
all at once came upon the great Terminal Crater apparently about the middle and about a
mile to the left or northeast of the highest point of the mountain. At the point where we
touched the rim was much broken down leaving horrible fissures and chasms with huge
boulders lying and hanging round in the wildest confusion. We found a pole at the verge
of the crater, and breaking it up we made a fire among the broken rocks below, sheltered
from the cold wind. We made some coffee and baked some bread, and after washing
ourselves felt renewed and suffered but little from the rarefication of the atmosphere. Got
plenty of water, retained as ice in one of the chasms. We then went to the highest point
and had a grand view of the crater. From that point it seemed to be shaped like the figure
8 that is oblong and much narrower in the middle than at the ends. It consisted of
different benches or bottoms, some twice as deep as others, the largest and deepest being
in the west end and right beneath the peak on which we stood. It must be nearly thirty
miles round the main part of the crater. I started to go round the western half, and the
others were to cross at or near the camping place. It was quite an adventure as I might
find insurmountable obstacles in my way and they might do the same and we might not
meet that night, and I at least with no food nor blanket would stand a good chance of
perishing. I went on over clinkers, loose slabs, fissures, chasms, snow, etc. Saw two
steaming holes on the western side. At length reached the great gap at the south west end.
Found that the gap was occasioned by another crater outside the main one and about two
miles round, very deep, sides perpendicular. Found a long pole and descended into the
main crater. Crossed the neck that connects the two. Dangerous walking. Found a sloping
bench and ascended to the top on the south east side. Walked and ran as fast as possible.
Cold very intense. Carried the pole with me for firewood. Had to draw a pair of socks on
my hands to keep them warm. Near sunset I reached the point where the rest were to
cross and by great fortune they were just emerging from the crater. They had succeeded
in crossing after much labor and difficulty. We then commenced to descend the
mountain. The height of the rim of the crater at the highest point was over a thousand
feet. We stopped some three miles from the crater and had another very cold and
sleepless night. Found water in a cave. Cooked coffee etc.
Saturday 15th. Descended all day. Way rougher than the west side. It rained at
night. We had no water. Reached timber and camped with a good fire.
Sunday 16th. Ate a little bread and honey and started. Way lay through grassy
hills, jungle, and lava. Reached the Volcano House afternoon. Our old native lagged
behind and did not appear today.
Monday 17th. Weather misty and rainy. Went with a native guide to see Pele's
Dissolving Views. The large lake was in quite an ordinary state of activity according to
the native. I could have stood all day and watched the ever varying phenomena on the
surface. It was more suggestive of the supernatural than anything I had ever seen. It
worked most at the edges--the boiling liquid lashed the rocks with their fiery waves,
gasping and coughing as if some burrowing salamander were operating below the rock
and throwing the material out behind it. There was a small island of consolidated lava
about twenty feet in extent close to the point where the visitor first strikes the lake. The
small lake was pretty still but higher than usual.
Tuesday 18th. Weather still very stormy. We leave today for Hilo. The reader will
please excuse the length of this narrative. As we formed the first party that ever went
over Mauna Loa from one side to the other we thought some account of the trip would be
interesting.
J.L. Wisely, Charles Hall, M. Wormann, 17 April 1865
19th visit....As I passed along the Kau bank I could see that there has been much
change in the northern part of the crater....The lake on the northern side...when I got
opposite it on the bank I found it quite inactive. There was a rim of fire around the lake,
which was like this in shape (here is drawn a shape like a boomerang) and about 300 feet
long. There was also a spiteful little chimney about half a mile nearer the House which
was continually blowing off steam or gas and which was glowing red. In the direct line
between the new lake and the old were openings through which the lava could be seen.
From all appearances from the bank the old lake has extended considerably in a northerly
direction. Since I was here in November last, a large stream of lava has overflowed from
the new lake and run in a southerly and easterly direction for at least a mile and a fourth
filling up several large chasms and holes. The large chasms or pits on the east of the ridge
of rocks are increasing both in size and depth. More smoke (not steam) is arising from the
bottom of the crater in all directions than I ever saw before.
Being an old Kamaaina here I would inform parties of strangers visiting this place
that there is very little danger in travelling over the bottom of the crater, except on the
western side, where the lava crust is very thin and rotten. If anyone has the time to spare
it is well worth one's trouble to go along the eastern bank of the crater and look into the
deep crater of "Little Kilauea" (it is perhaps a distance of 1 1/2 miles from the House.)
D.H. Hitchcock, 4 June 1865
On Thursday June 9th after breakfast descended the crater and paid a visit to
Madame Pele. Found the small lake in great action, it put one in mind of the sea in a
troubled state. The sight is awful as well as it is grand and sublime to behold the molten
lava moving as if there was some hand who had the supremacy of moving it about.
Dipped some hot lava and impressed some half dollars and quarters. After getting what
specimens we wanted we left for the subterranean caves, but the guide was obstinate and
did not conduct the party to where they wanted to go. Got a few old lava specimens not
feeling satisfied with the days visit. Got back to the hotel. Got refreshment and started
anew for the sulphur beds. Got some specimens. Weather foggy and misty with cold part
of the time. Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea was quite clear for awhile. Captain O.B. Spencer
and F.B. swain went out after game and shot a few. I would make a few remarks before
closing that visitors visiting the crater will see nature's handy work which men may
conjecture what they will, but finally know nothing in the end. Think well "man" and
ponder when you near that abyss of molten lava, that you and I have been spared to
witness the creator's work. Growing dark, I must conclude.
C.L. Smart, O.B. Spencer, Capt. Hamblin, 9 June 1865
...The crater has not been very active. The new lake has not increased in size. The
old one has enlarged towards the west....
D.H. Hitchcock, 20th visit, 20 June 1865
...Saw a portion of the north wall of the large lake cave in last night. The mass of
rock etc. falling in the lake measures some 50 feet in length by 6 feet in breadth....
G. Sampson, 27 June 1865
Arrived within the inhospitable quarters of the dilapidated, tumbling structure on
the 23rd inst. Found Mr. D.R. Hitchcock in solitary possesion of the premises surrounded
with scores of specimens and boxes, buckets, and kegs for their shipment.
Coming with the same intention, viz., the procuring of specimens, I confess I was
a little disheartened when I saw his splendid collection, but "Perseverentia Omnia Vincit"
is a stimulating maxim and following its precepts I am gratified to say has invested me
with a commensurate reward in this instance.
Relative to the burning lake, I would say that by active exercise of my propelling
power, I gained the active lake which I found unusually active and standing upon the
inactive brink in company with the gents of the preceding page at about 8 1/2 o'clock of
last evening I saw its activity greatly augmented by the caving in of an inactive shelf. The
singular combination of the inactivity with the active produced in a short time a general
activity which was grand and striking.
The excited action of one of our party at this action came very near giving Hiram
the guide cause for a term of masterly inactivity. I was about closing without recording
that the little lake is also active too and is fast assuming increasing an active part in this
strange and marvelous phenomena. The act of writing in this cold and cheerless evening
is actually trying, but I am so strongly activated by a desire to discourage the previous
wholesale monotonous meaning use of the word "active" when describing Madame Pele
that if I should succeed by this indirect way, my end will be attained and the reader may
read without the surfeiting effect of the too frequent repetition of this word.
C. Arnold, 27 June 1865
Arrived 23rd...Notice many changes since former visit Jan. 13th. One of the small
lakes has disappeared, the other much increased in size and activity. The principal
burning lake is also larger, a portion of west bank having fallen in. "Pele's head" is gone
and a piece of the east bank on which I spent the night, and the whole bank, on which
travellers stand to view the lake, is much more broken, the fissures larger. The island has
disappeared. The lake is not as active as when I first saw it and two of the burning cones
in the crater are now black and broken.
J.R. Logan, California, 27 June 1865
The following entry was translated from Hawaiian by Dorothy Barrere.
Left Richardson's at 5 AM arrived Luapele 9 AM.
A ua ike no hoi i ke ahi a ka Wahine Kamakahi o ke ao nei.
And we saw the fire [erupting] of the Wahine Kamakahi of this time. [Wahine
Ka-maka-ahi, Woman of the fiery eye/face.]
W.T. Martin [Wm. Thos.], H.R. Hitchcock, J.H. Smith, 18 July 1865
The undersigned left Hilo, H.I., at 8:30 A.M. on the first of August 1865 and
arrived at the "Asylum" on the brink of the crater at 6:45 P.M. and all enjoyed a hearty
supper. Professor William T. Brigham, of Boston, Mass. (special correspondent of the
"Laurence Scientific School" and "Smithsonian Institute") together with Mr. Charles
Wolcott Brooks, of San Francisco, went down into the crater and passed the night within
ten feet of the edge of the boiling cauldron. The scene was truly grand. Mount Vesuvius
is nothing compared to it, and this lava is of an entirely different nature. Prof. Brigham
and Mr. Brooks were startled out of a sound sleep at one o'clock in the morning by a
violent puff of sulphurous vapor, from which they left in a remarkably hasty manner,
leaving blankets etc. behind them. After this had passed away, they returned to the brink
of the lake of white liquid fire, and remained until 5:30 A.M. when they visited the new
crater, and then returned to the Asylum to breakfast. During the day visited other portions
of the volcano. Balance of the party spent the night of Aug. 3 in the crater. Prof. Brigham
returned to Hilo, and the balance of the party with a troop of servants passed on to
Kealakekua Bay.
Chas. Wolcott Brooks, Wm. T. Brigham, and 3 others, 2, 3, 4 Aug 1865
The undersigned dined at the Volcano House on the eve of Wednesday August
10th, 1865. Passed the night, had a fine view of the fire in the crater which appeared to be
in a medium state of action....This is my fifth visit.
John North, Hilo, 10 Aug 1865
This book is here for the avowed purpose to enlighten the scientific world by its
productions. I have perused its contents thus far from beginning to end, and have come to
the conclusion that "it is harder to make a whistle out of a pig's tail" that no man can
stand on the brink of the crater and behold for the first time the actions going on there
without feeling how little is man, attempt to describe space or time, then attempt to
describe this wonderful cauldron of liquid fire that was kindled, echo, answered when, as
I am of the opinion that God created man and endowed him with reasoning powers
sufficient to inhabit this earth but not enough to fathom some of the ways of God.
Science has revealed to us many wonders, but there is a line drawn that man cannot
penetrate....
Thomas Spencer, Hilo, 11 Aug 1865
...From frequent visits to the lake have been able to judge of the changes taken
place from time to time. I would therefore call the attention of those about to visit the
lake to the fact that where the view is had, is in a very precarious position, or in other
words DANGEROUS liable at any moment to slide off as there is a large fissure
extending back from the edge some 10 feet, from which large quantities of gas is
escaping. During a favorable change in the wind the night I spent at the lake (Aug. 3) I
was enabled to follow the left bank around sufficient to notice that the bank referred to
above is overhanging and will cave into the lake without any previous warning. The
activity of the lava is about the same as formerly observed.
J.B. Swain, 12 Aug 1865
Arrived here at ten minutes to twelve this noon from Honolulu via Kau. At half
past one, went down into the crater, visited the large lake which I found in a very active
state, and got back to the house at a little after five. Expect to start back to Kau tomorrow
morning. When I beheld the burning lake in all its grandeur I could not refrain from
saying with the Psalmist, "Wonderful are thy works Oh God, in wisdom hast thou made
them all." It is truly the most wonderful sight that can be imagined....
Wm. Clark, Honolulu, 18 Aug 1865
On this my third visit, surveyed the crater measuring the entire circuit, and the
heights of the palis.
Wm. T. Brigham, Boston, Mass., 22 Aug 1865
Someone wrote underneath:
And pray what was the result of your observation.
Arrived yesterday...Visited the SW crater and in the evening looked at the N.
crater from the bank opposite. The craters always grand but not particularly active.
Abrah. Fornander & party, 23 Aug 1865
Arrived at the "Cosmopolitan Hotel" de Volcano last night via Hilo, Laupahoehoe
and Kawaihae...Late in the evening, the clouds were brilliantly illuminated from the
volcano, indicating great activity. In the morning we descended to the "Burning Lake"
and our guide informed us that it was unusually active. We were overwhelmed with the
scene and were well repaid for our fatigue going and coming from the volcano....
K. Lorita Valentine, Waikapu, 31 Aug 1865
On visiting this volcano after the lapse of twenty-two years, my first feeling was
that of disappointment. The SW pit has decreased in size. I do not consider the
circumference to be as large by at least three-fourths--and the bottom is raised certainly
400 feet. On each of the two occasions when I was here in 1843 the whole of the bottom
of the SW pit was in a boiling, surging state, with the exception of three elevated cones-now it only surges in comparatively few and smaller places. I may also observe that in
approaching the SW pit from the side of the crater on which this house is erected you
were compelled to make a detour to the left, the direct road being interrupted by a chasm
some 60 or 70 feet in depth. This also has nearly disappeared....
Tho. B. Manhauser, schooner yacht Themis, 1 Sept 1865
Arrived here this morning at 10:30 o'clock from the halfway house. Descended
into the crater at 12 o'clock M. Found the lake in the same state of activity as J.A.
Rawson (see Pg. 9). (March 4 1865 entry)
F.W. Harris, 2d visit, 24 Sept 1865
Myself and companion (Mr. Bernard Fitz Patrick) arrived at the somewhat
summit house Oct 6th at 12 o'clock m. Weather, fair, heavy blow from NE at 3 o'clock
with rain, continuing most of dthe night.
Visited the sulphur beds, and went round on the west tide of the crater to see the
small lake, it was only tolerably active and the view from the top of the cliff being rather
distant, we got but a faint idea of what we had come to see.
But yesterday was a fine day and we went down and had a near view; we reached
the large lake at noon. Our guide said it was unusually active. As to this I cannot say this
being the first time I have seen this grand system of natural fireworks. There was one
large cauldron or fountain near the centre of the lake which threw up jets from ten to
twenty feet high. This fountain we soon observed to be moving in a northeasterly
direction followed by a current which continued to flow in the same direction while we
were there (about 2 hours). There were also two large fountains on the S.W. side of the
lake. The most westerly one ceasing to boil in about a half hour after our arrival. About
half past one o'clock another large fountain began to play in the S.E. corner of the lake
throwing lava much the same as the others, i.e., from 10 to 20 feet high. At 2 o'clock we
left to go to the small lake. This we found very quiet, only bubbling occasionally at a few
places near or at the northern end. So far as we could see there appeared to be a regular
flow of the lava in a northeasterly direction. After watching half an hour we observed an
unusually loud roaring seething sound which seemed to come from the S.W. end of the
lake and on each repetition of the sound it seemed to approach nearer the northeastern
end. After a few minutes the entire surface became broken up (the crust appearing to be
about six inches thick) and a succession of beautiful jets were seen to cover nearly the
entire surface while round the entire edge there was a brilliant glare almost too bright to
look at. At this time it was plain to be seen that there was a strong current over the entire
surface setting towards the N.E. The heat at this time was so great that we could not stand
nearer than 30 feet from the brink. Last night we went round to the N.W. side of the
crater to look at the little lake by starlight. It was very quiet most of the time but about
nine o'clock there was a very fine breakup but not near so extensive as that which we saw
in the daytime. Tonight we intend to go down and sit up with Pele at the large lake. It is
now 11 o'clock A.M. The wind is blowing brisk from N.E. with a heavy mist. A.M.
We last night went down and sat up with Pele. We first went to the small lake
where I succeeded in roasting a sweet potato on the lava....We witnessed one grand
smashup of the crust on the small lake and then went to the large lake. On our arrival here
the lake appeared to be unusually quiet. There were three fountains playing, one in the
S.W., one in the S.E., and one in the N.E. The jets of lava were thrown to an unusual
height estimated at 100 feet....The surface of the lake with the exception of these three
fountains was covered with a black crust which appeared to have the power to restrain the
gaseous heat and force it to find vent through the three fountains. The lake continued in
this condition for about one hour when the action became more violent and the crust
began to break up. The movement began at the N.E. corner right beneath our feet....First a
crack in the crust was suddenly disclosed several yards back from the cauldron or
fountain and in a circular direction around it. The crust thus liberated gushed suddenly
forward in a N.E. direction as though attracted by some tremendous power. It would
proceed thus but a few feet when the forward edge would tip downwards at an angle of
from 30 to 45 degrees and still moving forward it would of course quickly disappear
beneath the fiery flood while in the place it had lately rested and over the place of its final
disappearance there would burst up an immense number of beautiful sparkling jets so
bright as to give pain to good eyes when looking at them....Another and another piece
would break off, rush forward, and disappear the same as the first...each piece of the crust
being almost uniformly larger than the one preceding it until towards the last perhaps one
half the entire surface would press forward in a mass. During this time the jets and
fountains would increase in size or number and brilliancy as the field became larger and
approached nearer the centre of the lake. After this violent action had continued from 15
to 30 minutes and the old crust had all or nearly all become melted or submerged the lake
would gradually become more quiet. The fountains would cease to play except a few
around the shore and another crust would at once begin to form which after a brief period
of repose would be again broken up in much the same manner as the one I have so poorly
described. In the course of 10 hours I observed nine of these grand periods of activity.
For a time I thought each one more magnificent than its predecessors, but on further
reflection I incline to the opinion that this was probably not the case. I noticed that the
breaking up in almost every case commenced at the S.E. corner; the N.E. corner or the
East side; the flow always setting towards the place where the breakup commenced. In
conclusion I would say that my observations have not been sufficiently numerous or
extended to justify me in founding a definite opinion; but if further observation should
corroborate and agree with what I have already seen I would be willing to predict that the
glory of Kilauea will at no very distant day depart and be transferred to some point to the
eastward. I have often read descriptions by several different authors of this most
unrivaled wonder of the world, but their descriptions are so tame and so utterly flat to
convey an idea of what it really is that when I first viewed it I felt quite indignant; but on
further consideration I am constrained to acquit them one and all and say, "Well done
good and faithful servants" for I surely and solemnly believe that no tongue nor any pen
can convey to one who has not seen it even a faint idea of what it really is.
Chas. W. Marlette, 8 Oct 1865
Find some change in the crater since here last June. There are two new lakes, one
to the eastward of the Bluff lake and one between that lake and the old one, which is
nearly on a level with the upper crust of the crater. The Bluff lake is some 8 feet lower
than when I was here last and has extended some 150 feet towards the east. The whole
crater appears to be less active than formerly.
D.H. Hitchcock, 12 Oct 1865
The following entry is translated from Hawaiian by Dorothy Barrere.
Arrived from Richardson's 10 AM.
A ua ike nohoi i ke ahi o ka Wahine Kamakahi o ke ao nei.
And we also saw the fire of the Wahini Kamakahi of this time.
Mr. & Mrs. Hasard, 14 Oct 1865
Since my visit here last February have observed the changes heretofore mentioned
and while at the large crater today there was a portion of the bank where visitors first
approach caved away.
Geo. McLean, 20 Oct 1865
Arrived here Tuesday last. Yesterday and today it has rained most of the time.
The Bluff lake is steadily increasing in length towards the south. It now is 450 feet long
and about an average width of 100 feet. The Old Tobacco fire has now opened up partly
assisted by our party. There is now an opening in the windward side about 7 feet in
diameter which opens into a chamber about 25 feet in depth. This again is only the portal
to the most intensely heated furnace I ever saw. The roof and walls glow with a white
heat, while the floor is one mass of the most liquid lava it was ever my fortune to see.
That never crusts over but ever flows with a steady current to the S & E under the bed of
the crater and sticks thrown in quickly are drawn under and then bursts of smoke and blue
flame arise. The whole depth to the surface of the lava is at least 50 feet. It is most
certainly the finest sight in the whole crater. The old lake has enlarged very much
towards the west and north. It is now 375 feet in diameter, very nearly circular. Current
steadily setting towards the S. and eastward. Crater not very active.
D.H. Hitchcock, 22nd visit, 23 Nov 1865
The following entry was translated from Hawaiian by Dorothy Barrere.
Ua hiki mai au i keia la a ua ike au i ka hana a ia kupu eu e hoolailai ana ia i ua
uka anu ala i uhi paa ia i ka noe a ua honi hoomau aku au i na ea oluolu maikai nolaila he
nui ka iini a me ka hakui lua ole o ka puuwai e hana nei la i na mea he nui kino i ka ike
ana i kana mau hana kupaianaha nolaila ke huli hoi nei au ke nee ae nei ka ohu e uhi paa i
ka luna o Maunaloa a ke hoolai ne na keiki o Kaluaopele. Ua pau me ka aloha, Emalia
Kauhane. Eia kekahi mea au i mahalo ai o ka hao mai ona.
I arrived today and saw the works of this mischievous supernatural being, stilling
the fragrant cool uplands closed in with mist, and I kept sniffing the good, pleasant air.
There arose in me a great desire, and palpitations of the heart, to do what I had not done
before--to view her marvelous works. I turned back as the fog crept along and covered
the top of Maunaloa and brought calmness to the "children of Kaluaopele." This is
finished; with aloha, Emalia Kauhane. Here is another thing I admire--her forcefulness.
Emalia Kauhane, 27 Nov 1865
Arrived here on Tuesday evening from Kona in pouring rain. Visited the crater
Wednesday and returned to the house drenched. The writer lost his hat in the small lake.
Our predecessors' descriptions of the volcano have well nigh exhausted the subject....
Benj. Smith, 21 Dec 1865
Among the wonders of the world this is considered one of the most prominent.
The awful sublimity of the handiwork of our Creator is here to be seen ...
O.W. Spencer, Miss Ellen E. Lyman, Mrs. ___A. Haaldea, 21 Dec 1865
No changes observed in the crater worthy of note. I am now en route to Kau and a
circuit of the island, purpose visiting the new eruption upon Mauna Loa from Kona side
if practicable.
C. Arnold, 5 Jan 1866
Arrived at this dreary dirty desolate damp place yesterday in company with Mr.
Collins Arnold. We visited the crater yesterday afternoon. There has been some change
since we were here last November but at this time the crater is in much the same
condition as before noted. The weather was quite fair yesterday ...
Chas. W. Marlette, 6 Jan 1866
...Arrived this morning at 10:30 and after partaking of a hearty lunch tended to
business. First the sulphur beds were explored and many beautiful specimens obtained.
The undersigned would caution strangers about putting their hands too far into the
sulphur holes at first--it requires practice to do this with impunity. After this they visited
the two lakes. The larger one at first was comparatively quiet, boiling up in two or three
places only at the edges, but after remaining there about a half hour the whole lake
became agitated and in a few moments was covered by the molten lava in form of a wave
commencing from the N.W. side. A moment later and the whole lake was boiling
furiously, spouting up jets from three to ten feet. After making an offering of several
pieces of coin to Madame Pele for her wonderful exhibition, and giving the smaller lake a
proportionate share of attention, tracks were made for the hotel ...
W.R. Bridgman, Lt. USN and others fro U.S. Flag Ship Lancaster, 11 Jan 1866
...We arrived here at 11 A.M. from the Half-way House. As we approached the
crater from the House and beheld the vertical wall of rock on the opposite side, we were
reminded of the trap-rock that forms the western bank of the Hudson. Before coming
within view of the crater itself, but sufficiently near to behold the vapor rising from it,
one is reminded of that cloud of mist that ever rises from the majestic Niagara, and here
as there, one stands mute before the stupendous work of the Creator. We descended into
the crater and were agreeably surprised to find solid footing upon what seemed, from the
bank, to be a field of black mud. We were, however, unprepared for the cloud of
sulphurous vapor which we encountered just before reaching the larger lake. One of our
party came near suffocating, and had it not happened that our guide had a bottle of water
with him, the result might have been serious. With such experience as my prompter, I
would advise all parties visiting the lakes to take and abundant supply of water. We found
the larger lake quite active--five different jets at one time jetting into the air from ten to
fifteen feet. There appeared to be a current from the western to the southeastern side of
the lake which allowed the fountains to remain but a short time til they were swept out of
sight and under the bank. The small lake was very quiet and seemed hardly worthy of a
moment's attention after having viewed its competitor.
G.H. Sawyer, 14 Jan 1866
Arrived here yesterday from Hilo and visited both lakes in the crater in the after
noon. They were not particularly active....
Charles H. Rogers, Lowell, Mass., 31 Jan 1866
Arrived from Kau this morning and find Pele quiet, although smoking a great
deal, for one of the "Fair Sex." It is cold and rainy and very dark here today. Return to
Hilo tomorrow..
Charles H. Rogers, Lowell, Mass., 4 Feb 1866
Having visited Kilauea in the days when the old shed with its open door and hole
in the centre, for a fire place, were all the accommodation for poor weary chilled
travellers; how great is our appreciation and admiration of the present delightful dwelling
which well deserves the name of hotel. Well may Madame Pele now light up her fires
and advertise for visitors since she can receive them with hospitality.
M.A. Chamberlain, Honolulu, 19 July 1866
I first visited this crater in July 1830, when its depth was three or four times
greater than now. In 1849 I marked a spot upon the bank, estimated 60 feet above the
bottom, which is now out of sight.
Gerrit P. Judd, 6 Aug 1866
Since the 6th of August the long ridge of rocks and earth which had fallen from
the western wall and appeared to be floating into the middle of the crater bottom has
bloated past the middle to the eastward. The centre is rising slowly without change of
surface, while the sides of the whole crater have been overflowed and kept full by fresh
lava. The action tonight at the South Lake is grand. There are several new lakes.
Gerrit P. Judd, 23 Oct 1866
...Our cavities filled, & the crevices stuffed with whiskey
Which made H & R disposed to be friskey
We started to view "Madame Pele" from the tower
Arriving in something short of half an hour
Lighting our cigars & leaning over the rail, we gazed
Perfectly astonished, perfectly amazed.
Well-well-well-well
Some of you other fellows will have to finish this for I am played.
Slim Jim. A party from U.S.S. Lackawanna, 13 July 1867
Arrived here yesterday afternoon at about a quarter past 12 o'clock, and after
partaking of a good dinner proceeded down into the crater. Visited the lakes and cones,
found the large lake very active, rising, swelling, bursting, splashing, and roaring with
most terrific fury. The most awfully grand sight that is possible for human eyes to
behold....
George Clark, Honolulu, 20 July 1867
Arrived here this morning at 8 o'clock after a very wet ride from Olaa without a
dry shirt to change with but the gentlemanly proprietor of this hotel very soon supplied
all my wants, both for the inner and outer man and I have passed a very pleasant time
here until now 2 o'clock, and now having got my clothes dry and comfortable I am about
to start on my way to Mr. Read's where I expect to spend the night, but before starting I
am desirous of stating briefly some of the changes I noticed in the volcano on my visit to
the crater on the 19th Inst. My previous visit was on the 23rd of May 1864. At that time
there was but one lake of any note, and that was not near so large or so active as on my
last visit. At that time I noticed the first time I went down a large island in the southwest
of the large South Lake which I saw melt away on my 2nd visit in the evening of the
same day when the lake was considerably more active than it was in the forepart of the
same day. On my last visit (the 19th Inst.) the first thing that attracted my special notice
was the large north lake entirely new to me as were also several other lakes, the large
cone or blow hole near the south lake has changed considerable, not being so high as
before and of a different shape. The base or bottom appears to be much the same. Very
much new lava has flown over the bottom of the crater and several caves into which I
descended in May '64 appear to be filled up as I cannot find them this time. As this is
most probably the last time I shall ever have the pleasure of seeing the works of Madam
Pele, I must conclude by giving her credit for having satisfied the sightseeing visitors to
her mansions with the greatest sight to be found in the world.
George Clark, Honolulu, 25 July 1867
...My first visit was in 1853, and after fourteen years of continual changing,
Kilauea hardly seems the same to me. The bed of the crater is greatly filled up, and the
Old South Lake has many new rivals, for we saw the
fires of eight last evening. I would like to stay here a week.
A. Francis Judd, 18 Sept 1867
Visited the Hawaiian Acheron of Kilauea. It is not a crater in the scientific sense
of the term. It is a deep chasm formed by an abrupt breaking and sinking of the earth
about a thousand feet below the level of the surrounding sections, from which it was
disrupted, and which now constitute its walls. A crater signifies a chimney or orifice from
which lava and other volcanic matter is ejected. It is most generally found on, or near the
summit cones of volcanic mountains, and the flow from which keeps gradually elevating
them, until the fires become inactive or extinct; except in such cases as the last eruption
of Cosaguina in Central America, which took place on the 24th of January 1835, the
force of whose action almost destroyed and tore away the mountain, reducing it in three
days from 6000 to 2500 feet above sea level. Such instances however are exceptions, and
the crater mountains, as well as the country adjacent, are elevated by their action. There
never was a lava flow from Kilauea. The elevated table-land and ridges which surround it
exhibit no mark of recent volcanic action. There is no trace of any flowing from the deep
gulf-like chasm of Kilauea; nor does it appear that the volcanic matter in it has ever risen
higher than it now is. The signs of long and undisturbed repose mark its precipitous
walls.
The break or quebrada is in the long lateral ridge that lies east of and parallel with
Mauna Loa, and was evidently formed by the force of that great volcano. The earth in the
formation of Hawaii as of most volcanic countries is cavernous, and beneath many of
these caverns exist subterranean lakes of liquid fire, whose action is intense in proportion
to the quality of the combustible matter on which they feed. The ridge where the chasm
of Kilauea was formed had been long ages at rest, when some disruptive force abruptly
broke down and sank a section of the same into the seething subterranean lake below;
thus communicating new material for combustion, which has been in action ever since.
But the force which produced this rupture and depression, though violent, was not
enough to disturb the strata, from which the vast mass was detached and plunged into the
grand abyss below. The walls in every direction present horizontal strata, in no way
disrupted or dislocated. The layers of basalt, tufa, and conglomerate are undisturbed and
exhibit no marks after earthquake's tread, or volcanic violence. The formation
immediately around the walls of the chasm is much older than any on the inclined plane
reaching to Hilo and to the sea in Puna. The mass of earth and rocks thus described and
sunk so far beneath the surface has not all been melted by the action of the fires beneath
and which are continually burning in the chasm. Several islets of basaltic boulders rise in
the corrugated lake of lava, and surrounded by the seven different fire vents, which are
called lakes. They are mere vents in the lava bed of the great chasm, for the escape of the
gas generated by the fires beneath. Their overflow is entirely confined to the bed of the
chasm.
Kilauea will never become a crater that will overflow its walls--it will remain a
chasm--a gulf till its fires are extinguished. If a lava flow ever should occur from an over
accumulation of the volcanic mass which lies beneath and with which it is connected, it
will be through some cavern--some subterranean outlet beneath the level of the bed mass
of the chasm and toward the sea, as it occurred in that direction in the District of Puna in
1840.
The highest crests of the sunken ridge, which have resisted the action of the
surrounding fiery waves, are interesting as islands in the chasm around which the igneous
waves have surged and beat for countless centuries.
Visited the chasm on the morning of the 19th, with Messrs. Judd, Hitchcock, and
Porter. Walked over the glittering glass-like lava flow, which is recent, not yet cooled,
but widening its fissures, through which sulphurous gasses are steaming. The vent in
front of the lookout house is circular and is active, boiling and foaming in surges of fire
with a constant current to the northward. Separated from the party and went across an old
lava flow and between two basaltic islets to the eastern vent, which looked all we could
imagine of the mythological Acheron. The old lava flow over which we passed was
vesicular, broken into fissures in some places into deep chasms, with angular and
precipitous walls, and was decomposed enough to give growth to lava ferns and ohelo
bushes in the crevices. The age of the lava flow was convincing proof that there has been
no great rise in the bed of Kilauea for many years. The last flow was partial in its action
and produced a rise of but a few feet. Acheron, the eastern vent, was very active. Much
larger than the one first visited, it is an irregular parallelogram in its outline and is
longitudinal from northwest to S.E. on a line with the general axis of volcanic action. The
current of the lava flow sets to northward at the rate of two or three knots to the hour. We
watched its operations some time, and were convinced that the recent flow of lava was
formed by its action; that it was only intermittent and would again break forth.
The chasm of Kilauea is large but inferior to those of Amatitlan, San Salvador,
Masaya, and Atitlan in Central America. Volcanic action has long ceased in these, and
they have been converted into lakes, as will be the case of Kilauea, when volcanic action
shall cease in it. This may be many ages hence.
The phenomena around Kilauea are worthy of scientific investigation. The
mineral products in the vicinity should be analyzed. They will be found valuable and
contribute to the commercial resources of these islands. La Paz.
W. Claude Jones, Honolulu, 18 Sept 1867
Mrs. S.J. Lyman and Miss M.A. Chamberlain left Hilo en route for Kau
yesterday. Experienced severe rainstorms during this day, and hailed the sight of this neat
little hotel with gratitude. Entering its ever hospitably opened door, the improvements
brought since the last visit of one of us (of a fine neat fireplace, with its substantial
chimney) had power to call forth exclamations of enthusiasm even in a half-frozen and
sick traveler. While to the one, who for the first time experienced its comforts, it was
indeed a welcome revelation of comfort and good cheer.
At 9 o'clock we donned wraps and blankets, and took a few steps down the newly
constructed path, on the descent into the crater (begging La Paz's pardon for the use of
the misapplied term) and were amazed at the new revelation of the wonder. An entirely
new and quite extensive lake, in an entirely different portion of the crater burst upon our
sight; at this moment eclipsing in its brilliancy, any of the other. Mrs. Lyman who now
pays her 21st visit to this natural wonder, has never before seen fire in this part of the
crater, and the writer knows this lake to have opened since her last visit in Jan. of this
year. This lake which should be called the new lake we are informed by the present
proprietor of the Volcano House first formed early in March 1867 by the falling in of a
knob-like cone. Since then it has been steadily increasing in size and brilliancy., It is of a
triangular shape and the lava seems to be 12 feet from the surface.
Mrs. S.J. Lyman and Miss M.A. Chamberlain, 20 Sept 1867
The crater is a grand sight, but the trouble with it has been that I could not
appreciate it. It is possible to travel too much. A man who is a wanderer and vagabond on
the face of the earth ceases to have sensations. He is blase, used up--has lost the
enthusiasm of early youth. The only sensation he feels is a feeling that he has lost feeling.
I sat for hours today, beside a boiling lake--suggestive of Hell--saw the leaping flames
and heard the sighs of the wretches that seemed to struggle for freedom till the lava
cracked and surged and shone with a fiercer heat, but there was no awe or admiration, or
enthusiasm. The scene may revisit me after years, particularly after heavy suppers--but I
am shocked at my coldness this day. It is possible to travel too much.
John Bett, Dundee, Scotland, 29 Dec 1867
...Our introduction to "Lua Pele" was made about eight o'clock in the evening
from the fine point of observation known as the Lookout House. The night was silky and
we were treated to a grand sight--vis.--the eight pocket editions bound in lava of the
world-renowned Tophet! Ye Gods and little Fishes! What a reminder of our latter end!
After gazing upon the terrible scene until the thought of so much fire made our
tongues cling to the roofs of our mouths with a sensation of dryness, we returned to the
"Oasis" and proceeded to test the contents of an old and familiar-looking black square
bottle ...
The next morning, to be odd, we visited the crater. Found the same to be located
in the same locality as heretofore described by other and better pens (This is not a
Gillott!)
According to the traditions we find written down in the valuable and interesting
pages before us, we opine the Goddess of Fire took special pains to impress us with her
resources. The cauldrons were boiling; the cones sputtering, and lava flowing in all
directions; but owing to a strong wind from the south we could not approach the large
match factory known as the South Lake.
However, we saw, and were astonished by the sights....
Steele Penne, 29 Dec 1867
...Reached here after 9:30 P.M. after 12 hours ride. There was a heavy mist set
which rendered it impossible to distinguish an object 2 fathoms from you and continued
so all night. They told me in Hilo that there was a volcano in those parts but as I have not
seen any thing that looks like one except some pieces of brimstone which might have
been brought from France for all that I know, I have my doubts about there being a
volcano here....
J.T. Walsh, 11 April 1868
Kilauea is dry, for the first time since 1840, when Kilauea emptied its liquid
contents through subterranean conduits in the flow which reached the sea at Nanawali in
Puna. This time it seems to have sent them underground a distance of 40 miles to rise in
the destructive eruptions at Kahuku in Kau. We have today made a full circuit of the
crater and not found a trace of liquid lava, not a vestige of the incandescent lakes
remaining, in place of them vast pits, with beetling toppling walls, of frightful desolation.
At least two-thirds of the area of the crater towards W. and N.W. have caved in and sunk
about 300 feet below the level of the remaining portion of the old floor. Near the N.W.
corner, the principal seat of the fearful catastrophe of 12 days ago, there exists a deep
chasm of about 1/3 mile in length, the surrounding ground thrown in the utmost
confusion and disorder. Heavy vapors of steam rise from most parts of the crater, almost
from every crack and chasm, and the floor is in many places so hot that the hand does not
bear its touch, but of mineral gases, so abundant formerly, there are only faint traces
perceptible now, here and there. During our stay below, twice heavy detonations occurred
of falling rocky masses, indicating the continued caving in of portions of the floor, both
coming from near the western wall. Portions of the eastern wall have been thrown down
by the earthquake of April 4 and heavy boulders obstruct the path leading down. A great
number of crevices (one not far from the Puna road, 14 feet in width) have formed in the
immediate neighborhood of the crater. The bottom of Kilauea Iki, formerly covered with
thick vegetation, is now floored with black lava which rose in it between 6 and 10 p.m.
on April 4.
William Hillebrand, 18 April 1868
Pele has roared again last night. Fire was seen in the south lake at 12 midnight.
Reports from Kau have come in that the eruption at Kahuku ceased two days ago.
William Hillebrand, 19 April 1868
Arrived at this hospitable house at half past one P.M. in company with Mr. G.
Holmes. We left Waimea on the 18th. Visited the new flow at Kahuku....We found the
flow came from an immense split or ravine with quite a number of cones. The lava was
hot and steaming on 23rd....
Mr. Richardson accompanied us to the new flow at Nuka Pili. We found red hot
lava but the flow had ceased. The pahoehoe was quite hot. The flow also appears to come
from a split or ravine. The extent appears about a mile I guess or more.
The mud flow near Mr. Richardson's where some 31 persons perished is well worth a
visit. Mr. Holmes and myself went to the top. I must say it is the hardest walk one can
take.
I visited this place on the 13th of November 1864. Although the volcano now
appears almost lifeless, the many comforts one can enjoy in this new House of Rest after
a journey from Waimea, one should feel satisfied. No doubt Mrs. Pele will assume all her
grandeur shortly--like a sperm whale she has only gone down to rest and I hope to hear
before long that she is again spouting in all her glory.
The crater is full of steam and smoke. I cannot recognize any part as belonging to
that which I visited in 1864. No doubt the two new flows have in a great measure
weakened her resources.
P.S. The mud flow was caused by the Great Earthquake on April 2nd was so
sudden and quick that it could not be seen by those who were within a short distance.
28th. Quite unwell with influenza, hope to make a start for Hilo tomorrow. Pele
was illuminated all last night. Quite a grand sight.
Frank Spencer, 27 April 1868
Our party arrived here this P.M., two hours and forty minutes from Reed and
Richardson Ranch, Kapapala, had pleasant weather most of the way, will visit the crater
tomorrow and record. We have visited the lava flow at Kahuku and the mud flow at
Keaina, we prospected both to our satisfaction, and experienced shocks of earthquake at
both places, but more severe at Kapapala.
Alfred W. Carter, 30 April 1868
This morning some of our party experienced quite an earthquake and during the
night we heard a loud report as of a cannon but much louder....
We have just returned from a visit to the crater. It was raining hard and very
warm. We visited two cones or chimneys and found hot air issuing from them. Two of
our party, J.M. Miller and S.M. Carter who visited this place last year noticed quite a
change, there were at the time of their visit four lakes all in action and the banks of the
whole crater seemed much higher. The South Lake is all that is to be seen in action just
now and that not very lively. We did not approach it owing to the condition of the lava
and rain. The Chinaman can supply our wants in the way of eatables but that is not all
that is wanted at such a place as this. Someone should reside here that would notice
changes and give the causes if possible to the world.
Alfred W. Carter. John Meek Jr., and party, 1 May 1868
The floor of the crater has fallen about 300 feet from its former level and the
south lake 500 feet.
H.L. Chase, Honolulu, 18 May 1868
The South Lake was quite active all last night.
F.L. Lyman, 19 May 1868
Went down into the crater of South Lake, got some fine specimens of lava with
coins embedded in the center while in a state of fusion. The lake was very active,
throwing up jets to the height of 30 or 40 feet.
E. Delemar, Honolulu, 27 May 1868
Arrived at the Volcano House June 2nd at 9 p.m. in a storm of wind and rain, all
of us thoroughly drenched. Found by our journey from Hilo that the people of this island
are quite facetious regarding distances, any of their miles being equal to five and a half of
those of civilization. The volcano is worth the misery experienced in reaching it by sea
and land; and, I think, that is much to say of it.
A.M.M., 2 June 1868
...The object of our visit lies quietly before us gently smoking and looking as
harmless as possible. We have (as we must consider it judging from the luck of former
visitors) the good fortune to behold the crater on a calm sunny day which enables us to
enjoy all the scenery visible from this perfect standpoint and to appreciate fully the
grandeur of the prospect....
S.C. Powell, 23 June 1868
Arrived here last evening at 2:30 or afternoon. After having satisfied our hunger
we proceeded with a guide to explore the volcano and after a walk of 2 1/2 miles arrived
at the edge of the crater and found so dense a smoke as to entirely hide from view all the
fire in it and only once in a while when the wind would blow the smoke away were we
able to see any sign of life. But during the time we spent there we counted eight distinct
fires--and two of which were very good size. We stood on the north side of the crater and
from under us came a very dense smoke but we could see no fire. At one time we
attempted to descend into the bottom to see the cause of so much smoke, but were all
nearly choked to death by the terrible smoke which met us at every step, so were
compelled to abandon it and return to the house when before we had gotten half way it
was so dark that we were compelled to light a lantern to see where to step....
no signature, 12 July 1868
There has been no material change in the crater since the visit of Dr. Hillebrand
April 18th. Nearly the whole bottom of the vast pit in the southwest end of the crater so
accurately described by R.W. Andrew on page 135 is in a state of fusion, most of the
surface being thinly crusted over, but constantly changing, cooling over, and melting
again by turns. It is nearly divided into two lakes by a ridge of fallen rocks. The farther of
these two lakes occupies about the same position as the old "Halemaumau" or South
Lake. Nine cones, five on the south and four on the north side, were spouting fiercely,
while at the eastern end of the pit a small lake was in a high state of activity this morning,
spouting 30 or 40 feet high at times, and rapidly forming a large cone before our eyes out
of the falling fragments. About the center of the farther lake, and near the south side the
liquid lava was flowing in a southeasterly direction. The eastern boundary of the pit
seems to coincide with a great crack, which formerly existed, and which is laid down in
Mr. Brigham's excellent map of the crater in his work on Hawaiian volcanoes. Tonight
the display of fireworks in the crater is magnificent and shows increasing activity.
W.D. Alexander, E. Delemar, 26 July 1868
Page 135, referred to in the above entry, has been cut out of the volume.
Arrived here on the evening of the 4th and left on the morning of the 6th. Found
that the South Lake was the centre of active operations, all activity being confined to it.
The action evidently was increasing during our stay. The sulfurous gases were stifling, as
they issued from the cones, and rendered any but the windward side dangerous.
signature illegible, 5 Aug 1868
We arrived here last evening after 6 o'clock from Hilo, and were glad to get up to
a warm fire. We went down into the crater this morning and did not find as much action
in the South Lake as we had hoped. There were some eight or nine cones and holes which
were belching out smoke and gases in great quantities, but we could see no fire from the
edge of the lake....Three of us went down into the South Lake from the east side, and
passing over the bed of the lake we came up upon the west bank. While in the lake we
had a fine chance to look into one of the red hot cones and could see the volcanic fires at
work, and hissing with a great noise at times. At times we were almost suffocated with
the gases but the sight of the fire in the cone was enough to pay for all the trouble of
getting at it.
After seeing the crater we all went over to the sulphur bank and spent an hour in
exploring and collecting specimens. The crater is just about the same as when Pres.
Alexander was here (July 26) but there is now very little action.
William W. Hall, Honolulu, 7 Aug 1868
When I first saw this crater (Sept. 5, 1866) the action was confined to the North
and South Lakes, but it increased gradually, till, just before the Great Earthquake of April
2d, 1868, there were 12 lakes in active operation, besides many cones. On the night of the
2d of April the appearance of the crater was grand beyond description, nearly the whole
surface being covered with the liquid lava. There was fire also in the small crater
adjoining this one, towards Hilo. For two weeks after the earthquake there was no fire to
be seen in the crater, but it is again in action, and promises to equal its former grandeur-in time. The centre of the crater has dropped all of 300 feet below its former level.
Chas. E. Stackpole, San Francisco (735th visit) 16 Aug 1868
In looking over the back pages of this book, I find on page 81 (over the name of
G.P. Judd) [6 Aug 1866 entry] that in 1830 he visited this place and found the crater three
or four times the depth it was at the date of August 6th, 1866. Also in 1849 he marked a
place on the bank estimated 60 feet above the bottom and at the visit of Aug. 6th, 1866
that had gone out of sight.
Now I think I must be right in asserting what to me seems very plain that the
crater has filled up since one year ago at least 150 to 200 feet--although I think the fire in
the South Lake is about on its former level--as no one has mentioned in this book as I can
find except G. Judd anything in regards of the idea I advance. I think perhaps it would be
well for some one or two more to advance an opinion on the matter.
N.C. Haley, Waiohinu, 8 Sept 1868
Visited the crater today. There is very little activity there. There were seven or
eight cones in the South Lake that emitted steam pretty freely, but without noise. No
running lava to be seen anywhere.
H.P. Baldwin, 9 Sept 1868
Arrived here eight o'clock this morning from Kapapala. This afternoon, went
down to the lake, Madame Pele was sleepy.
Wm. L. Bond, 1 Oct 1868
Memoranda, taken from L. Kaina's lips. April 2d, 1868. About 4 1/4 p.m. the
great earthquake took place at his residence a mile or more above the Volcano House. At
5 p.m. Mr. Kaina reached this house. The region to the north of the old South Lake had
already fallen in, and a great stream of lava was pouring from the South Lake northward
into the depression, in a cascade of fire. At 6 1/2 p.m. fire was seen over Kilauea Iki
simultaneously with a terrible noise, when the floor fell. There was great noise and fire in
Kilauea till 10 p.m. when the fire went out in Kilauea Iki, and began to diminish in
Kilauea. By Sabbath the 5th of April, the fire in Kilauea was nearly out, and was not seen
again till at 12 M. of May 27th when there was a great report and fiery vapors with
appearance like lightning in it. That night there was great activity in the crater. Since then
Mr. Kaina thinks the depression has been filling up.
L.H. Gulick, 7 Oct 1868
The action in the lake has increased greatly during the past week. For the first
time since April 2nd fire and lava jets can be seen from the verandah of this house. Lake
is gradually filling up.
J.H. Carey, 21 Oct 1868
The following entry has been translated from Hawaiian by Dorothy Barrere.
[L. Kaina confirms the remarks made by Gulick entered above his own entry, and
adds:]
Ua hoomaka ka a ana o ka pele ma ka la 14 o keia malama--Ua hoomaka ka a
ikaika ana ma ka la 21 o Okakopa nei-a ike ia ke lele ana iluna loa. He olai no ma ka la
18 o Okakopa nei-He olai no ma ka la o [O]kakopa nei.
The eruption (ka a ana) of the lava began on the 14th of this month--the strong
eruption [fountaining] (ka a ikaika ana) began on the 21st of October--and could be seen
leaping high above. There was an earthquake on the 18th of October--Another earthquake
on the [no date given] of October.
L. Kaina, 22 Oct 1868
I find on examining the crater that great changes have taken place since my last
visit in December last. As to April last the floor of the crater all around from the S. lake
by the north bluffs and back to the sulphur beds was filling up from overflows from a line
of craters now marked by the great break or chasm extending around the whole crater.
On my first visit in 1857 I visited two small cones on the eastern bank of the
crater below Kilauea Iki. These were then about 50 feet above the floor of the crater at
that time. In 1862 an overflow of a small lake near the north bluff and on the present line
of break filled up this north and east side of the lake up to and over those cones. In 1864
when the crater commenced its great period of activity, a succession or chain of lakes was
formed all around the crater and the overflow from these filled up the outside of the crater
some 150 feet more leaving the center of the lake slightly sinking. Since the Great
Earthquake the whole centre of the lake from this chain of lakes has sunken some 300
feet. The greater part of Halemaumau has fallen into the South Lake which is more than 5
times the size it was in Dec. of last year.
The high ridge of rocks running through the crater owing to the falling in of the
center has drifted in more towards the north than formerly. The fire is now entirely
confined to the great South Lake. Hardly any smoke arising outside the lake and its
vicinity. The greatest disturbance in the outer walls of the crater is on the north or Kau
side, towards Kahuku where the lavas found their vent. Some of the steam cracks around
or near the House, or on the flats seem to be affected by the Great Earthquake. It seems to
me that the center of the crater is now lower than the South Lake, and should the S. Lake
fill up more, it is probable that a large lake will be formed in the centre, which if it does
take place will most likely cause the whole centre of Kilauea to subside and again form
what in "Auld lang syne" was called the "black ledge." The great chasm all around the
lake Mr. Kaina informs me was not formed for several days after the Great Earthquake.
To see the crater now and what it was 10 years since, are different entirely.
D.H. Hitchcock (28), 6 Nov 1868
The action of the South Lake has been increasing rapidly during the last 3 weeks.
On a previous visit Oct 15th, 1868, the South Lake or Pit was about 250 feet deep. There
were several cones in the bottom from which steam was emitting but not much liquid
lava. On visiting it again today in company with Mr. Kaina we found the lake had filled
up some 150 feet and the action divided into 3 different lakes, viz. North, South, and
West. During our stay there the action in the Southern Lake increased rapidly throwing
up jets of lava to a height of 100 feet. The action continued for about an hour, then settled
down and disappeared altogether. During the time the Southern Lake was in activity the
Northern and Western Lakes were quite calm. After the lava had disappeared from the
South Lake the Northern and Western Lakes commenced throwing up streams of lava as
high as the Pali above, accompanied with loud reports which could be heard for several
miles, continuing this from a half to three-quarters of an hour when the lava disappeared
from the Northern and Western Lakes and Kilauea is again dry. On arrival at the House
the Chinaman told us that he had felt 4 shocks of earthquake during our absence which
we did not feel down in the crater. Mr. Kaina informs me that the activity of the lakes and
the reports were similar to those of the evening of April 2d, 1868.
Monday morning Nov. 9th, 1868. At 6 o'clock this morning the Northern
Lake again broke out, throwing up jets of 100 feet. The Southern Lake is still inactive.
no signature, 8 Nov 1868
The South Lake or Halemaumau is rapidly filling up again. On Tuesday evening
Nov. 24th the running lava could again be seen from the verandah of this house, being the
first time since Nov. 9, 1868. This morning can hear loud reports in the crater such as
blowing etc. etc. Weather misty and disagreeable.
no signature, 26 Nov 1868
The handwriting of the above entry is similar to that of the 8 Nov 1868 entry.
The volcano gave us a grand sight last night, throwing up jets 100 feet high or
more. I start for Hilo this morning at 10 o'clock and the Pele is roaring so that we can
hear her plain at the House. It sounds like the roar of artillery five miles off.
G.H. Ingraham, 26 Nov 1868
...It is a curiosity to see it, it repays one for his visit, it displays the great powers
of the Almighty....
Rev. Patrick O'Reilly, California, 5 Feb 1869
The following is translated by Dorothy Barrere from Hawaiian.
Wau hiki mai ma Kilauea nei e nanai ke ahio Kilauea nui loa maikai ke pele lele
maluna loa wau hele pumai ka hao. [This is very poor Hawaiian, apparently written by a
haole.]
I came to Kilauea to see the eruption (ahi) of Kilauea. Much and beautiful was the
lava leaping high above. I went along with the force [of the wind].
Jas. Duncan, Honolulu, 12 Jan 1869
Arrived at 11:30 o'clock, had dinner, and then started to see Madame Pele in her
fiery glory. She I think was sleepy and had retreated far below nearly out of sight. Got a
few pieces of nice lava but the crater was so smoky that it was as much as we could do to
stay below, very nearly got choked.
Tonight she is very dull, wind blowing and rather cold but have a good fire to
warm us.
How small we look when standing in the middle of that crater looking with
admiration on the great work of the Creator....
S.W. Case, Onomea, 11 Feb 1869
...Found Mrs. Pele looking well and driving a good business in the lava line.
Nothing to say about her hair except I don't like the color....We now take off our hats to
Mrs. Pele and express out thanks for her courteous pyrotechnic exhibitions.
B.F. Gibbs and others from the U.S.S. Ossipee, 19 Feb 1869
...It has been raining all day and tonight the crater looks splendid from the
verandah of the House....
Jas. Duncan, Honolulu, 20 March 1869
...From Keauhou...raining...only got occasional glimpses of the crater. How
changed since I was here last year! No single feature in the bottom of the crater appears
now as it did then. From the Volcano House no fires, only the reflection of fires were
visible in the evening. The middle lake in front of the house appeared the most active.
Abr. Fornander, 30 March 1869
As to the Volcano, "No great shakes." Fire enough to "raise a little steam."
David J. Lee, M.D., 30-31 July
C.L. Hopkins visited the place July 30th with Dr. D.J. Lee; slept over a night, and
did not see any grand affair, we saw three small lights in a row and that was all.
C.L. Hopkins, 30 July
Today spent six hours in the crater. Madame Pele rather lively. Found the South
Lake burning, there being fire in thirteen spots, every appearance of a grand display of
nature's fireworks....
Robt. Newcomb, 2d visit, 19 Aug 1869
...Much rain and the crater full of mist but at 5 a.m. the next morning the lake
presented a glorious spectacle being lit up with two large streams of fire.
Philip Morant, Redding, Berkshire, 24 Aug 1869
...Last night however it showed us a river of lava, seen from the veranda of the
house; and this evening we count eighteen distinct fires and a smaller lava flow....
Geo. Shipley, M.D., New York, 1st visit, 1 Sept 1869
Guided by the trusty Cain, I reached one of the cones in South Lake, though nine
cones were burning in it, and within an hour we saw flame burst out of the level lava
plain and throw up a vort of well-cerb yards high.
We circumambulated the entire South Lake so that our walk was a march of 7 1/2
hours.
Prof. James Davie Butler, Madison, Wisconsin, 8 Sept 1869
Since Friday last the South Lake has been quite active, flows from cones in
different parts of it every night. Yesterday there were two shocks of earthquake, and last
night five. Two of them towards daybreak were solid fellows with a jar like starting
heavy machinery. Weather clear with a strong northerly wind.
Sept. 16. No shocks since Monday morning but the cones in the South Lake are
still pouring out lava. One near the centre is very active tonight, streams running from it
both north and south. Beyond, closer to the western bank, is another very active cone.
There is a heavy flow from it running to the east. At time of writing, 10 p.m., the streams
form an unbroken line of fire clear across the lake.
Geo. Jones, 13 Sept 1869
...In the evening at seven o'clock the fire was very bright. One cone in the center
of the South Lake was pouring out lava. The fire was bright all the night and very active.
In the morning it began to rain and the fire not visible. From the steam the lava in the
South Lake is on the lowest part of the bank about 40 feet down.
G.H. Luhren, 18 Sept 1869
Four fires visible from the Volcano House during the night. Visited the South
Lake this morning--depth of surface about 25 or 30 feet at the usual point of approach;
descended to the surface, went to the mouth of the only cone in action at the north portion
of the lake, also to one in the southeastern portion, but in each case found the heat too
intense to get sight of a single particle of molten lava. Threw in stones; at each place
some time elapsed before we heard the splash--noted the time at the last cone, between
two and three seconds, thus estimating the depth at about 75-100 feet. Although some
eight other cones were in action, yet in no place whatever could we get a glimpse of any
flowing lava. Query, Is the liquid lava which we heard splashing in the depths below, on
a uniform level?
H. Bingham, Jr., 10 Nov 1869
From Hilo via Puna, with its warm springs, beautiful cocoanut groves, ancient
heathen temples and awfully grand craters, our pleasant party, consisting of Lord Chas.
Hervey, Dr. Beraz, and myself, arrived on Thursday evening last. The two following days
we spent in the crater. The fire is still all confined to the South Lake, which since my last
visit has increased towards the southwest. The whole South Lake is now solid with the
exceptions of three small pits where the lava is boiling and there are four small cones. It
is also gradually filling up and will before long become an immense dome as it was from
1848 to 1868. The centre of the crater appears to be sinking more, at each visit I make,
and will (as it now is below the level of the fires in the South Lake) sooner or later break
out. The inner ledge, or Black Ledge of the "Ancients" is becoming more and more well
defined. Pele has as yet not regained herself, from the effects of her Kahuku excursion,
but if ever the activity of the years between 1864 and 1868 is seen in Kilauea, it will be
the grandest sight the world can produce as there then will be a lake of fire 3 miles in
diameter in the centre of the crater.
Friday 15th.
Since writing the above our party have ascended Mauna Loa via Kapapala. Left
here about 11 A.M. Monday, reached Kapapala that P.M. Made preparations for the
ascent. Obtained mules for ourselves and pack. Took Mr. Kaina's tent along. At half past
nine A.M. commenced our ascent with one native. Had a most delightful ride through the
groves of koa and mamani. And after a delicious draft of rich milk at Mr. Ellis' we
wended our way up the steeper sides of old Mauna Loa. Arriving at "Lake Superior" (see
"Jones on Mauna Loa") and finding the cattle had emptied it we immediately dispatched
our Kanaka back after water and we proceeded onwards. Our ascent was now quite rapid
keeping well to the left of the mountain. After many wanderings we at last reached the
old camping ground of the party who had preceded us and immediately pitched our camp
and made ourselves comfortable for the night. As the cool mountain breeze struck down
the mountain the clouds were rolled together in a vast plateau some 7500 feet below us
looking like a rugged aa flow covered with the whitest of snow. The thermometer fell to
47 at bedtime. After a comfortable supper we all turned in and enjoyed a night's rest at
about 9000 feet above the sea level. At daylight the next morning we were active and
after a cup of tea and steak we again proceeded up the mountain side. Our way now led
us to the left still and up and over the most rugged pahoehoe and through groves of ohia
and mamani which gradually grew less and less until at last we shoved out on a vast sea
of lava whose billows were towering high all around. We continued this wearisome
ascent up-up-up, till it seemed as though old Mauna Loa's top were _________, always a
little farther on. At last a small piece of snow or frozen hail is discovered and now and
then we soon discovered patches of it lying in the sheltered nooks. But still on we went,
higher-higher. The air was delicious. On our mules we found no difficulty in breathing
but a most charming feeling of lightness. At last a succession of chasms warned us to
alight and doing so we went on for half a mile over rugged pahoehoe and aa until at last
we all stood on the banks of the highest crater of Mauna Loa, Mokuaweoweo. Steam was
issuing from the banks and bottom but there was no smoke or any indications of any
recent lava flow in the crater. After a lunch we commenced our descent and by dark had
just entered the region of vegetation. A bright moon however lent us her kindly aid and
our sure-footed mules brought us safely into camp at 7:30 P.M. After a late supper and oh
how good the tea and steak was we all turned in, cold as it was, and slept well till
morning. We then broke up camp and at noon were at Kapapala and at 5:30 P.M. now
here again, tired of course. There is the statement of our trip to Mauna Loa. We find
much smoke and steam in the crater and there is apparently more activity. Am now off
for Hilo.
D.H. Hitchcock (31), 10 Jan 1870
Arrived at dark last evening from Hilo. The South Lake was quite active in many
places during the night, "Cain" having departed.
F.L. Lyman and H.F. Bishop, 19 Feb 1870
Arrived at P.M. from Kau. Saw considerable smoke and steam at Nukapili.
Charles N. Spencer, 26 Feb 1870
Mr. Kaina informs me that on the 19th of February the South Lake overflowed its
banks for the first time since the earthquake. The lava ran mauka, perhaps 50 feet. For the
last two days the crater has been rather quiet. A good deal of smoke and steam but little
fire. Tonight two or three cones are blazing away and making a strong flow toward the
House. Expect the bank will be overflown again before morning. Wind quite strong from
the southward so that the noise from the active cones is plainly heard from the verandah.
G.T., 6 March 1870
...Mrs. or Madame Pele...has entirely woke up this last 48 hours and has done a
mighty stroke of work having covered over 4 acres with an entire new layer of lava....
John Thrupp, 23 March
The above entry is dated 1869, but is between two March 1870 entries.
On last Monday night, 28th of March, the South Lake filled and overflowed, it is
now one level mass, beneath which fire may be seen. It fired up last night for over an
hour, though its fireworks are nothing now to what I have seen before. The change in
crater is so great, I could not locate where the South Lake used to be. At any rate, Pele's
safety valve is shut, and there will be a big row before long.
Wm. N. Rogers, 1 April 1870
...The lava has filled up in the crater about 50 feet since my last visit on Oct. 4th.
It seems to me unsafe to go down to any part of the North Lake tonight, the lava spread
over a good part of the North Lake.
Wm. Weight, 2 April 1870
Find a great change in the South Lake. The whole is now filled up and a huge
mound is forming over it. Lava is running over Halemaumau into the deep basin to the
northward, The fires are not active.
D.H. Hitchcock, 26-28 April, 1870
Madam Pele has been very quiet during our visit here.
May 5. As travelers have been registering their observations in this book for the
past five years or more for the benefit of science without any apparent beneficial results, I
suggest that future visitors record their observations concerning the most interesting
points in and about the crater. We arrived here on the 2d inst. after 9 hours traveling in a
severe wind storm and we were kindly welcomed by the hospitable host, Akana, who
can't be beat except by Schafer of dthe geysers in Califo®nia. Madam Pele has not been
particularly active during our stay. The two lakes so often mentioned in this book seem to
have merged into one. Nine cones still emit smoke, the most active by far is the first one
reached after leaving the house and directly in front of the gate. The largest and most
interesting cone is on an elevated plateau on the right hand before you reach the first
cone. A fine place for specimens. Among the numerous visitors at this place no one has
mentioned the sulphur beds by the baths nor the geysers on the south rim of the crater....
N.C. Brooks, San Francisco, 3 May 1870
...We found the crater quite lively--ten cones in action.
signature illegible, Australia, 4 June 1870
En route for the summit of Mauna Loa. We came up today from Keauhou in
company with Mr. G.W.C. Jones, having made the journey through the Puna district to
Keauhou, a journey which we advise all to take.
It is eighteen years since my first visit to Kilauea, and since that time there has
been a great change in the floor of the crater. The crater now looks as I imagine it looked
to Wilke's party in 1841 after it had been drained off by the eruption of 1840--as it has
recently been emptied by that of 1868. During the interval between those dates it had
filled up, and instead of the depression in the center which now is there, there was a hill
in some places one hundred feet high. But the greatest change is in the accommodations
now ...
June 22. The above party have just returned from a successful visit to the summit
of Mauna Loa. We left Richardson's Kapapala Monday 20th at 9 o'clock and stopped at
Capt. Elisses and watered our mules and filled our water containers, and arrived at the
camping ground at the upper edge of the woods at 4 P.M. Here we pitched our tent and
made things comfortable for the night, at an altitude of about 8000 feet. The temperature
at 7 P.M. was 54, at midnight 42. Early the next morning we were off for the summit.
About a mile above the woods all vegetation ceases, and for the rest of the way the trail is
over pathless tracts of lava (pahoehoe). At 11:20 A.M. we reached the summit and the
great Crater of Mokuaweoweo having ridden all the way up (the first time it was ever
done). We found no action in the crater excepting a few steam cracks on the west side.
The crater is not as large as Kilauea but deeper. We found some snow and ice in the
crevices of the rocks near the crater. Our party did not experience any of the symptoms
usual to those visiting such great heights. We found the temperature at the summit in the
shade to be 57, in the sun 82. After eating a lunch we started on our return down the
mountain and arrived at the camp at 5 o'clock P.M., amply repaid for our exertions and
we would advise all who wish to see a wonderful sight to visit the summit of Mauna Loa.
L. Severance, Punaluu Oahu; John D. Brewer, Honolulu; L.L. Austin, Onomea, 16 June
1870
Arrived seven hours from Hilo. Found a great change after six years' absence in a
good comfortable hotel and everything desirable for the comfort of the traveller. At 2
p.m. made a descent into the crater and found the whole face of the crater altered since
last visit in '63, there being a great depression in the centre, and the old south lake having
filled up leaving only a few breathing holes where the molten lava could be seen
disporting below. About halfway to the south lake passed over a new flow which our
guide said was only of three weeks growth. The lava was hot, and subterranean fires
could be seen through the cracks. In one place found a small stream flowing and dipped
into it with our sticks getting out some fine specimens with coins imbedded. Leave this
morning (July 23) "dead broke."
H.M. Alexander and J.F. Jackman, 22 July 1870
From Kapapala today. Found the crater rather inactive, the southern side of the
crater has sunk down very considerably since my last visit (May 1870).
J.H. Coney, Hilo, 22 Aug 1870
Volcano House. While visiting the above, we were startled by a noise like the
report of a cannon; rushing to the door we beheld a scene of startling grandeur. An
immense lake had formed of what had seemed the first part of the evening, three distinct
lakes, it boiled and surged in a magnificent style for about five minutes and then cooled
down. The Chinaman says that this same lake was active last week, but that there was a
severe earthquake at four o'clock Wednesday morning, at which time the lake sunk, and
became three distinct lakes.
A. Frances Johnson, Hanalei, Kauai, 5 Oct 1870
Have returned from a trip into the crater, where we saw sights that were worth
seeing. Three large lakes; viz., the North, South, and West. The South Lake is the largest;
and I think larger than any that have been for years. One end of it is much higher than the
rest, and while we were there it boiled over and ran into the other portion. It is a long
winding lake and would hold, say, three of the South lakes of olden time. The West lake
is next in size, then the North one. All three lakes are very deep, and while there, we saw
the rocks from the sides tumble in with terrific crash. I will now note how Madam Pele
returned to her former level. A week ago Wednesday morning, about four o'clock, "Mine
Host" being my authority, there was a heavy earthquake, and at daylight it was found that
the cones, with their lurid fires, had disappeared, and in their places were three fiery
lakes. Last night there were two grand illuminations of the South lake; all three lakes are
very active, but being so very deep do not show to as much advantage as they would,
were the fiery mass higher up. I have been into the crater many times but have seen
nothing equal to what I saw today. What we mistook last evening as three lakes forming
into one, was the opening up of the whole of the South lake, into one fiery mass. I hope
for the sake of those who may come hereafter, to see the sights, that these lakes will
continue to burn, for if there is anything disgusting to one's tender feelings, it is to take
the ride from Hilo and then see only a few black cones with fire sticking out here and
there.
W.H. Rogers, 6 Oct 1870
Arrived here yesterday after a very tedious ride of 10 hours. Have seen the great
crater of Kilauea active. Stayed one night, going back to Hilo today.
E.H. Boyd, 14 Oct 1870
Arrived here at dusk from Hilo, after a tedious ride, saw the crater very active
during part of the night, I was disappointed in the content of Kilauea. Return for Hilo
today.
James R. Hols, 14 Oct 1870
...Candor compels a confession of disappointment at the volcano. It has no doubt
been grand, but just now fails either to terrify or inspire. Having seen Niagara, the
Mammoth Cave, and the Yosemite, the conclusion forces itself upon me that for
sublimity, grandeur, impressiveness, inspiration, and natural beauty, the great Yosemite
is incomparable. Many visitors have considered Kilauea scientifically, but few, if any,
comparatively. Beg pardon, Hawaiians, if our comments give offense?
W.C. Cochrane, U.S.M.C., 13-15 Oct 1870
To the lake that burneth with fire and brimstone and back--seven miles out, and
ten or fifteen back. Oh, these stars! Would I go again within twenty-four hours? Not for
Joe--at least not for guide's wages.
Great, grand, magnificent! So I suppose are Pluto's regions; but would one want
to visit them on that account? Standing in the grate bars and at the furnace doors, is quite
sufficient for all purposes of curiosity....
E.D. Pogue, U.S.N., 14 Oct 1870
Crater very active. Three cones throwing up jets and a large lake on the western
side (just beyond the high bluff) surging with a roar that is plainly heard from the
verandah. Akana says that shocks of earthquakes are becoming frequent. Some of them
strong enough to throw down articles in his cook room.
J. Kavanagh, Ulupalakua, Maui, 7 Nov 1870
The steward Akana states that the crater has been much more active the last three
days than for several months. Tonight there is quite an extensive flow from the mauka
lake and frequent eruptions in the black lava in the vicinity.
James W. Girvin, 1st visit, 27 Nov 1870
Arrived from Hilo at 12 midnight. The crater very active, lava flowing in the
crater in all directions.
L.E. Severin, 2 Jan 1871
Arrived here at 10:30 A.M. from the ranch of Messrs. Reed and Richardson at
Kapapala. Was induced to stay overnight by the lively deportment of Madame Pele. She
has been very active all night and has fully repaid us for our delay.
W.P. Ragsdale, 31 Jan 1871
Here are some translations by Dorothy Barrere.
Ua hele ka Pele a haalele i kona mau kulanakauhale o ke waiho wale nei. Penei ke
ano o kona hele ana-ma ka poalua la 27 a keia malama ua ki oia 8 pu ikaika ma ka hora
elua a ke ahiahi, a a ka uahi ua eleele ma ka hora eha o kakahiaka poakolu-he olai nui a
ikaikaa kai hoohakui iho ikaika maoli no ke olai-a i ka malamala loa ana aia hoi e
hamama mai ana no Puka o kona mau hale aale nae he kanaka, ua hele aku i ka au wale
nei au i ko'u hoa naha o keia wahi meha meha a ke uwe maoli nei au me ka waimaka ia
ia. : Owau iho no--Akona [Pake] pr. L. Kaina.
Pele came [forth], and left her many houses ["village"] and was in plain view.
This is the nature of her going forth--on Tuesday the 27th of this month [the 27th of
October 1870 was a Thursday] she shot 8 strong "guns" at two o'clock in the evening
[P.M.], and "smoke" blazed; it was dark. At four o'clock of Wednesday [?Friday]
morning there was a strong earthquake that really shook down because of the great
strengtah of the quake-and in the "bruising" [of the land] "doors" of her many houses
opened up. There was no one there however-she had just gone out, had my companion.
This solitary place was all broken up, and I really shed tears for it. I am-Akona [Pake] per
L. Kaina.
written for Akona [Pake] by L. Kaina, 28 Oct 1870
I ka nana keia hele no a "Kaianu ka lehua, ula wena i ka la'au" no ka mea, ua
maikai loa ka pele i
ka po nei.
At this viewing "Cold is the lehua, rosy red the tree" [from a mele] because the
lava was beautiful this night.
W.P. Ragsdale. E.W.R. Niau, Kahaoe, 31 Jan 1871
10:30 P.M. I have just returned from the crater. The walk over the heated lava and
through the smoke was a warm one. But the sight I saw has repaid me for all my trouble,
including a 12 days passage on Foster's Fast Sailing Brig Kamehameha IV. Six days
confinement at Hilo, on account of heavy rains, and the never-to-be-forgotten 29 miles
from Hilo. The accommodations at this house were beyond my expectations.
Henry J. Agnew, 4 March 1871
For the last two weeks the lava in the South Lake has been sinking, and the fire
dying out. Mr. Lileston went down into the pit and found no fire. He estimates the depths
at 300 feet. Dense clouds of smoke have been rolling continually from that part of the
crater, which the strong winds have carried as far as Ninole in Kau. At Reed &
Richardson's the smoke was so thick as to affect the eyes. Tonight there is a slight glow
at times, over the South Lake. Steam was rising from the top of Mauna Loa at sundown.
W.H. Reed, 20 March 1871
A continual, dense cloud of white smoke has been rising, for two days past, from
the whole of the South Lake. A mere glimmer of light last evening has been the only
other action visible.
R.W. Andrews, 24 March 1871
Arrived here on the 27th in seven hours and twenty minutes traveling time from
Hilo. Nothing can be seen but a dense cloud of white smoke which is plainly visible from
Hilo. The smoke was so dense that the bottom of the crater could not be seen. The only
fire visible was in a crevice about 30 feet from the edge of the crater and about 6 feet
below the surface where the rocks were red hot and we easily ignited the walking stick
we carried. Last night for about 10 minutes there was a bright reflection on the clouds.
A. Sunter, 29 March 1871
Arrived here Monday P.M. after a pleasant ride from Kaimu. Find that
Halemaumau is again being built up and forming a dome as in 1857. The general level of
the South Lake is almost up to the main bank of the crater. The pits in South Lake are
very deep but still fire is found near the surface level. Action is limited to a few crevices.
No molten rock to be seen. Smoke issues from every crevice in South Lake in vaster
quantities than I've ever seen before.
D.H. Hitchcock (34), 13 April
The above entry is dated 1870 but probably was written in 1871.
Arrived here yesterday from Hilo by way of Puna. It is now over seven months
since my last visit to Kilauea. A great change has taken place since that time in the
general appearance of the crater. There were then five active lakes with fiery fountains
playing in their centres and the waves dashing and surging against their banks, while rifts
in the floor of the crater revealed the molten liquid beneath surging against their banks
while rifts in the floor of the crater revealed the molten liquid beneath. Now all is still. A
great volume of smoke is issuing from the centre of one of the old lakes, and last night I
noticed a faint gleam of light. The smouldering fires may burst out at any moment, since
the time is probably not far distant when the passing traveler will have to record another
outburst with its accompanying scenes of sublimity and grandeur.
J. Kavanagh, Hilo, 15 June 1871
Here are some translations by Dorothy Barrere.
Arrived in daylight, when the redness of the fire was obscure-it is now blazing.
J. Kua, 1 July 1871
Ma ka la 17 o Iulai ua ikaika ka a ana o ka Pele maloko o kona lua-ke hoomau nei
oia i ka ainaOn the 17th of July strong was the blazing of Pele within her pit-she continues the
landL. Kaina, 17 July 1871
Nothing but smoke to be seen.
E. Bailey, 6 July 1871
Arrived here at 7 P.M. July 31st. Having found no fire here to amount to
anything, we, the above, are going to the top of Mauna Loa to see what we can find there.
Rev. W. Frear, Edw. F. Bishop, Frank Thomson, 31 July 1871
On the 9th much smoke only--on the 10th (evening) the whole crater in fire--and
the same time a great fire to be seen in the Mono Loa Crater.
Richard Lindau, N. German consul in Nagasaki, Japan, 10 Aug 1871
Ma ka hora 6-1/2 o keia ahiahi, ua ike aku wau i kekahi mea kupaianaha i hoea ao
ma ka piko ponoi o Mauna Loa, me he uahi ala ka pii pololei ana iluna. O ka Mauna ua
ahu wale, ka lae loa. O ko'u ike ana i ka puka ana ae, ua kahaha loa, no ka ula pono ole
mai, me he ohelo papa la. Ua pii, a aneane paha 200 haneri kapuai mai ka piko o ka
Mauna, alaila kuu make ido, me he punahu ala, aole i hala na minute elima mahope iho,
ua hoomaka aaw e lilo i eleele like me ka nanahu.
Hora 7. He uuku wale no kahi mea ano e o ka Mauna ke nana aka o ka wena ola
mau no. Ma ko'u manao wale ae no, aole paha e lokihi ka manawa i koe e hoike hou mai
ana ka Luahine aia iho ma ka holo ana maluna o ka aina.
Kakahiaka, hora 8. Iho wau me ko'u mau hoa hele i ka South Lake (Lua Hema)
aole i kokoke loa 'ku pii mai ka welo ino, nolaila kuemi hope mai me ka manao e hoi mai
malalo o ka Pali o Kamohoalii, aka ike ku'la makou i kekahi wahi ma ko makou akau a
kahi no a ike hou ia uahi malaila wahi mai a kamaaina nolaila hoi wikiwiki mai me ke
hupuahulu. O na makamaka a jpau e manao ana e ike i ka Lua, mai kanalua no ka ano o
ka hookipa ia ana, oiai o kahi au e makemake ai e loaa ka oluolu a me ka hookipa ia ana,
oiai o kahi au e Hale wale no. Na hookipa ana ua pumehana & ka oluolu. (Aole e lokihi
kau lauwili ana no keia mea.)
"E hele e ike maka"
A.K.M., Hilo, 12 Aug 1871
The Hawaiian entry above has been translated by Dorothy Barrere as follows:
At half past six this evening I saw something strange--a cloud that appeared at the
very summit of Mauna Loa; it rose straight up like smoke. The mountain lay in full view,
the whole long brow [of it]. As I watched the [cloud] coming out I was surprised at the
redness of it, like [the redness of] a strawberry. It went up almost 200 feet perhaps from
the summit of the mountain, then it died down and became like a red mist. Not five
minutes later it began to get black, like charcoal.
Seven o'clock. There is little to be seen of this strange thing on the mountain
except the continuing glow. In my opinion it will not be long before the Old Woman
[Pele] will be seen again running over the land.
Morning, 8 o'clock. I went down with my traveling companions to the South Lake
(Lua Hema). Shortly afterwards a bad-smelling heat came up, so we retreated with the
thought to return below the Pali of Kamohoalii. However we saw to our right the [badsmelling] smoke again, coming from its accustomed place, so we rushed back quickly.
All you friends who are thinking of viewing the Pit, don't be doubtful about the
kind of treatment here. It is a place such as you would want, to find comfort and
entertainment, here at this House [the Volcano House]. The hospitality is warm and
pleasant. (Don't be undecided for long about this.)
Go and see [for yourself!]
A.K.M., Hilo, 12 Aug 1871
Our party arrived on Friday at noon the 25th. The crater very quiet. Faint light at
night from the outbreak on Mauna Loa.
signature illegible, 28 Aug 1871
...One of this party being on the fourth visit and this being the first time since the
great earthquake of 1868, was very much struck with the totally changed aspects of the
crater from former visits. The depression of the crater bed, and the yawning pits where
the North Lake was, particularly drew the attention. The visit to the famous
"Halemaumau" or South Lake was a disappointment as no fire could be seen. There was a
tremendous surging and rushing sound underneath us but nothing visible but immense
volumes of smoke. We did not stay long especially as we had to pass over a very hot and
dangerous looking place to reach the point of observation. After this brief survey our
party repaired to a cave in a ledge of rocks on the northwest of the crater, and lunched,
and then climbing to the top of the ledge we began to walk along the lava floor on that
side of the crater when there came a slight shock of earthquake which gave the crater bed
where we were standing a sensible sense of depression, and gave a general rattling to the
cliffs on all sides and sent down streams of stones with great clouds of dust
accompanying. This greatly alarmed one of the party who had passed through the
earthquake of 1868, and the whole number turned their steps towards getting out and one
at least of the party rejoiced exceedingly when the last footstep on lava was taken.
M.A. Chamberlain, 13 Sept 1871
Arrived here from Hilo last Thursday evening at 4:30 P.M. Found Pele inactive.
Today (16th) we went down to the crater at 9 A.M. seeking Madam Pele's present
habitation. At 12 we stood on the north bank of her ladyship's hale and saw the molten
lava at the distance of 100 feet below the pali on which we were standing over. The
smoke that came from the burning pit was very oppressive. After gazing and meditating
on the wonderful scene before us we retraced our steps towards the Volcano House
getting out of the region of smoke as soon as possible and arrived at the Volcano House
at 2 P.M.
W.P. Ragsdale, 16 Sept 1871
Arrived Dec. 28th 1871 and found the volcano in full blast. Visited the crater
following morning and left for Hilo same afternoon.
W.C. Bacon, London, England, 28 Dec 1871
Visited the crater this day, found it quite active, truly a strange and awe-inspiring
sight.
Rev. John McCarthy, 3 Jan 1872
I find changes going on continually in the crater bed. The main bed is now almost
entirely run over, by overflows from the South Lake which is now some 250 feet higher
than the centre of Kilauea crater. Three large cones are now formed in the South Lake
and one in the process of forming. The South Lake cones are about 75 feet lower than the
present summit of Halemaumau. There is a deep pit on the summit of Halemaumau and
another to the north of it in South Lake. There is more steam coming out of the
southeastern walls of the crater than I ever saw heretofore. Since last April the fire is
more concentrated apparently in the vicinity of where the old South Lake was formerly.
Fine weather. Wind southerly. Our party came via Puna--three days from Hilo.
D.H. Hitchcock, 11 Jan 1872
The above party left Hilo 8:30 A.M. Jan 26. Stopped two hours at half way house.
Reached Volcano House 7:45 P.M. In rain the entire trip--in mud. Volcano very active
during the night--not so much as when we visited it in the morning.
H. Macfarlane, Honolulu; Lisa M. Hopkins, Mrs. L.B. Boswell, Myra Hopkins, San
Francisco, 27 Jan 1872
Six months have elapsed since my last visit to the crater. All was quiet then, no
fire was visible, but great volumes of smoke were issuing from the bed of one of the old
lakes. The scene has changed now. Four fissures have opened in the bed of the crater, a
few hundred feet apart forming a semicircle; beneath this area the liquid lava may be
heard surging, while it wells up from the opening rifts with occasional spurts. The heated
gases are issuing from the many cracks around, with more than their wonted strength,
which with the heated floor makes it rather uncomfortable for the visitor.
J. Kavanagh, 20 March 1872
We arrived here from Hilo after seven hours ride en route for Kau, encountering
some of the annoyances on the road that the foregoing pages speak of. A fog shut the
smoking chasm from our view soon after arrival and we diverted ourselves by perusing
the preceding pages....9 P.M. Fire visible at different points west and southwest.
E.L. Harvey, Hilo, 12 April 1872
Comparing what I saw yesterday with the grand phenomena beheld by previous
visitors as stated in these pages I conclude that the volcano is quieter now than it has ever
been before. There are no lakes or pools of liquid lava, no eruptions of any sort, no noises
to be heard at a distance. The vast interior of the volcano is covered with hardened lava,
rent by innumerable fissures. Some parts standing at a higher, others at a lower level, as
the lava in cooling had subsided. Towards the southwest end of the crater basin, there are
seven cones that pour forth volumes of smoke by day and fire by night. It is only on a
near approach to these that you obtain visible evidence of the tremendous volcanic forces
throbbing beneath your very feet. Approaching as close as the fiery heat will permit to the
mouth of one of these cones you perceive that the sea of lava is perpetually tossing its
waves upwards to the roof of the dome, from which hang fiery stalactites. This is now the
great spectacle for visitors to the crater.
F.C. Autridge, Chaplain Ret., HMS Scout, 26 April 1872
Arrived on Tuesday evening May 14th 1872. Visited the crater on Thursday May
16th which was active enough to be interesting, although from all accounts it presented
no extraordinary appearance. Nevertheless, a boiling bit of molten lava presents a
startling appearance, and persons not accustomed to volcanoes (if not others) cannot fail
to contemplate such a spectacle with reverential awe.
Stephen H. Phillips, 16 May 1872
Three lakes very active. Saw Pele devour an offering given by one of our party.
Visited the caves, collected specimens of lava and also ferns on returning. Morning of the
24th walked to Kilauea Iki before breakfast.
Anna McCully (2d visit), 22-24 May 1872
Arrived from Kapapala on the way to Hilo. Volcano very active.
C.E. Richardson and party, 18 June 1872
...Found the crater very active. Fire seen in four different places at 11 o'clock at
which hour I retired to bed.
July 6. At 4 a.m. this day the volcano was in a high state of activity. The fire was
one mass say about 8th of a mile in width illuminating the heavens most wonderfully.
The crater of Halemaumau has filled up most wonderfully since my last visit to this place
in Sept. 1871.
William P. Ragsdale, 5 July 1872
Saw seven cones and one lake in a state of great activity. On the evening of 8th
July saw a large flow from one of the cones.
William H. Chickering, Massachusetts, 9 July 1872
The Volcano was acting till the morning till we had breakfast 6 o'clock.
Nick George & party, 13 July 1872
The following entry has been translated from Hawaiian by Dorothy Barrere.
The party of 11, insluding Rose Ragsdale, went down to the eruption in the crater.
...Ua hiki mai makou ma Kilauea nei, i keia la ua hele makou e nana i ke ahi a ka
wahine aole nae makou i papaleo meia ua hele aku no makou a kokoke o ko iala ho'ehu
mai la noia a lihi like ole aku i kana mau hana hookala kupua no ka nui loa o ka wela, o
ko makou hoi mai la noia i ka hale hookipa o ka poeleele koke noia ia wa oia i haawi
koke mai ai i kona malamalama a nana akula makou ua like loa me ka hale mahu o
Ulakoheo e hoohehee ana..
We arrived today at Kilauea; went to see the eruption of the Woman. We did not,
however, talk with her. We went, and near to her place we were driven off at all the edges
of her supernatural workings because of dthe intense heat. When we returned here to the
guest house it was nearly dark, and shortly afterwards she gave forth her lighat, and we
saw that it was just like the hale mahu of Ulakoheo as it was smelting [The hale mahu,
"steam house," was the foundry at Ulakoheo in Honolulu, i.e., the Honolulu Iron Works.]
J. Keo, 13 July 1872
Lava flowing from Halemaumau, so that we could not go to cones.
Louisa B. Brickwood, Honolulu, 17-19 July 1872
Arrived here last night at 11 o'clock and visited the crater this morning. Went on
to the lava flow of yesterday to the "hole" where it came out but it was so hot that we had
to return in a hurry.
H.M. Ayer, 20 July 1872
Arrived from Hilo last night after a tedious ride of 9 hours, about 11 o'clock. The
night was clear and cold, with the moon shining brightly. Saw three places with fire
which seemed very active, they were spouting fire from 10 to 30 feet in the air. Went to
bed and slept soundly till 7 o'clock. This morning made a visit to the crater, saw two
cones about 20 feet high with fire issuing from holes in the top, also saw about 10
fathoms to the left of the cones what seemed to be a basin or hole from which issued
smoke and molten lava with a terrific noise, went within 50 yards of the hole on lava
which flowed from it yesterday but could only stay a few minutes as it was very hot.
Joseph Marsden, 20 July 1872
Arrived last night from Hilo, in 8 hours travel. Pleasant weather. This day visited
Halemaumau; found it moderately active, but grand enough to repay us for a journey of
over 5000 miles to see it. Tomorrow we leave for Kau ...
Dr. Samuel Kneeland, Boston, Mass., 4 Aug 1872
Which he is sorry to own to a feeling of disappointment; though the boiling
cauldron alone repays one for the trouble of getting there. Must be a grand sight when
things are lively down yonder; and everything so cheerful and comfortable at the little
Christmas-like inn, think it would pay to wait till the next grand eruption.
G.M. Curtis, Boston, Mass., no date
Arrived here yesterday from Hilo, found the crater very active and also saw the
fire on Mauna Loa.
W.P. Ragsdale, 26 Aug 1872
Arrived here at 10 min. to 12 A.M. crater particularly inactive. The presiding
Goddess having gone to visit her friend at Mokuaweoweo.
Thomas E. Cook, Kealakekua, 26 Aug 1872
Arrived Saturday August 31st. Crater still quiet--it is rumored that Pele has again
gone gallivanting off with Kamapuaa.
Thomas E. Cook, Kealakekua, 31 Aug 1872
Arrived yesterday at 6 P.M. from Hilo. Fine weather until the grove was passed,
the rest of the way cloudy, misty, rainy. During the night there was a lively display on the
part of Kilauea, but nothing visible from the summit of Mauna Loa owing to heavy rains
and obscuring mist and clouds. From Hilo on Thursday night, the light from Mauna Loa
was exceedingly brilliant, denoting extraordinary action in the crater of Mokuaweoweo,
the present eruption of which commenced on Friday 9th of August last.
With Professor Kneeland and his party I visited this place on the 4th of August,
and returned to Honolulu on the 17th same; stopping at Maui en route for the purpose of
ascending Haleakala, which was accomplished successfully by all the party. From the
summit, the most extensive and magnificent of the extinct craters of the world spreads
itself in awful stillness and majesty beneath; outrivalling with all its living splendors its
more famous neighbor, the fiery Kilauea. Stranger, you should by all means see
Haleakala; no need of going to Naples after that; but make arrangements for your funeral
and depart in peace.
Today with faithful Hoopii and John Scissors for guides, visited the South Lake
and vicinity with Mr. Palmer and Mr. Dimond. From a small cone near the right hand
centre of the high ridge beyond the North Lake flowed a stream of lava towards the
south, which gave evidences of one or two days' age; and at the present writing (10 PM)
is full and beautiful in the extreme, and shows a line of fire upwards of a mile in length
extending towards the right with a slight curve.
Other cones are showing fire at their summits and from a circular cauldron on the
left centre the lava may be seen now, from the hotel door, surging furiously and sending
occasional splashes high above the surface and threatening a flow of unusual magnitude.
The night not clear, but there is no wind, and the noise of the volcano is audible at this
distance.
No disappointment this time; first visit, dreadful.
G.M. Curtis, Boston, Mass., 31 Aug 1872
I was here four weeks ago and hearing in Honolulu of the eruption on Mauna Loa
came back to Hilo to make the ascent to the summit. Left Hilo the morning of Friday in
company with Mr. G.M. Curtis and Mr. H.C. Dimond and arrived here that afternoon.
Visited the crater yesterday and found the cones quite active with a flow from the most
westerly one which the guide said has been going on since Wednesday. This morning we
went to Kilauea Iki and found it well worthy of a visit, and a very handsome extinct
crater, distant 1 1/2 miles from the hotel, an easy half-hour walk. The flow from the west
cone has been going on nearly all day, and just before dark we went on foot about three
miles on the road to R. & Richardson's, then leaving the trail got down onto the plateau
directly opposite to and overlooking the cones between the North and South Lakes, from
that point we had a most complete and splendid view of the flow which came out and
divided into two large streams, one going south and the other west, each about 1/2 mile
long, and the sight was truly grand and magnificent. The other cones were also lively and
the large pot to the extreme east was nearly full, surging and spouting in splendid style
and adding much to the beauty and grandeur of the scene. To anyone wishing to view the
entire action in the cones and lakes I would strongly recommend this place of observation
in preference to going into the crater, especially for a night view--it is only one hour's
walk from the hotel and we came back in the dark without any trouble whatsoever. We
leave tomorrow for Reed & Richardson enroute for Mauna Loa and hope to find the
crater Mokuaweoweo still in action about which we will report on our return.
H.N. Palmer, 1 Sept 1872
Arrived here from Waiohinu at 6 P.M. en route for Hilo. Started for the crater at 8
p.m., found old virgin Pele very active and she appeared very gloomy and as brilliant as
in her brides days. The fire was shown and sparkling all about us and it appeared to me
rather dangerous to approach the summit. Rain poured down during all the time and after
an absence from the House of 5 hours 15 minutes I arrived home, drenched by rain.
Proceeded on to Hilo next morning at 7 o'clock.
signature illegible, 5 Sept 1872
Ascent to the summit of Mauna Loa, made by Messrs. W.F. Conway of Hilo,
H.C. Dimond of Ohio, G.M. Curtis and H.N. Palmer of New York. We left Reed &
Richardson's on the morning of Tuesday Sept 3 with Kawaka as guide, and Upa, alias
Jno. Scissors--remained some time at Capt. Ellis' and reached the camping ground early
in the afternoon--4 1/4 hours travel from the lower ranch. Fine clear night and not cold,
and the fires of Kilauea below and those of Mokuaweoweo above us were distinctly
visible. We made the elevation to be 7,100 feet. Started the next morning at 7 o'clock but
as we had only four riding mules to 6 persons, we had to take turns in walking, and this
made our ascent longer and more fatiguing than it would have been had we all been
mounted, but we arrived at the summit at 1:30 p.m., 6 1/2 hours travel. We found the
crater in operation throwing up a fountain of lava from a cone about in the middle, to the
height of 150 feet or so, and the lava was running in a stream to the northeast, covering
over nearly all that portion of the crater. We decided to remain all night. Had intended in
so doing to have sent our mules with Kawaka back to the camp, but he was entirely used
up, so he could not do this and had to keep them with us. We pitched our tent about 1/4
mile to the east of where people generally reach the crater, in order to get a better view of
the fountain and flow of lava. Weather clear and cold as the sun went down, and we
could not keep very comfortable during the night. The thermometer we had was only
graded as low as 30 so we could not tell how much below that it went during the night,
but water froze more than an inch thick and at sunrise in our tent the Ther. marked 30.
The view of the fountain and lava flow after dark was perfectly splendid and more than
repaid us for the discomforts of the stay--it was continuous all the while we were there,
and we judged had not varied any since it first broke out on the 9th August, nearly four
weeks previous. The next morning we found to our disgust that all the mules but one had
escaped so we packed all our traps on the one who had so kindly remained, and started on
foot for our camp--both our Kanakas were in a bad way, so that our progress for the first
3 or 4 hours was very slow, but as they got into lower regions they improved and we
reached the camp in 7 hours from the summit--we made the elevation at the point where
we camped on the summit 13,900 feet and other places were 1 c 200 feet higher.
Remained all night at the camp, clear fine weather, and the next day Friday Sept. 6th left
at 9 o'clock on the mules that had left us at the summit, they having gone to the lower
ranch and been sent up to us by Mr. Richardson. Reached Mr. Richardson's in 3 hours
travel and came on here the same afternoon. We find Kilauea quite active with large
flows from the various cones, and the past two days and nights, running to the north, so
that we get a good view of the fire from the hotel. Leave tomorrow for Hilo. This is the
first time that anyone has ever seen any fire or action in the crater of Mokuaweoweo, and
I think the first party that has camped on the summit since the expedition of Com.
Wilkes.
H.N. Palmer, 8 Sept 1872
Note below:
Hawkins' party ascended Mauna Loa from Kilauea and camped on the summit 22
years ago R____ painted views of crater and also koa groves. Walked up the mountain.
Note in margin:
Mr. P. is mistaken about his party being first since Wilke's to camp on the summit
of Mauna Loa. Hawkin's party, Brinckley's &c & c., Brigham's & Mann's also in 1865.
In company with Mr. M. Dickson I arrived here on Thursday 5th Sept. We found
Kilauea very active Thursday Friday and Saturday flowing with immense force and
power. On Sunday the flow had ceased leaving nothing to be seen but large volumes of
smoke issuing from the cones.
Jno. S. McGrew, Meinzies Dickson, 9 Sept 1872
Saturday Sept. 7th the following party left Ellis station for the summit of Mauna
Loa. Mrs. A.C. Black, H.M. Whitney, H. MacFarlane, J.H. Black, Capt. David Smith,
F.L. Clarke, John M. Calgan, Robert Rycroft, John T. Chayter, J. Reany, A.W. Claflin,
G.H. Adams, C.N. Spencer, and the guide Henry Gandell. We left Ellis' at 6:15 a.m. with
three natives and two pack animals. Reached the camping ground at 6 p.m. Pitched our
tent on the edge of the crater, immediately opposite the fountain of fire. The sight was
very grand. All of our party were more or less affected with "mountain sickness" and one
or two were very ill. Water froze during the night, and all were glad to start down the
next morning. Left our camp on Sunday morning at 7 a.m. Arrived at the camp at the
edge of the woods at noon. Rested, and started again. We felt so uncommonly smart that
the party started ahead of the guide and prowled around in the woods (it rained hard) until
5 p.m. when our guide found us and took us to Ellis'. Left there at 10:30 a.m. and arrived
here at 2:30 p.m. Mr. Whitney went back to R & R's ranch from Ellis. The lady of the
expedition is in fine health and spirits.
H. MacFarlane, 9 Sept 1872
Illustration: Crater of Mokuaweoweo, a sketch map, 10 Sept 1872; showing Active Jet.
Drawing of old shoe on same page.
Adjacent to the drawing someone wrote:
Mrs. Black has the honor of being the first white lady to go to the summit of
Mauna Loa!
The fountain of fire as described by H.N. Palmer was very fine. The jet was
projected towards us, falling like a cataract of fire. For a full description of the trip and
the crater see P.C. Advertiser of next week.
F.L.Clarke,no date
Illustration: Drawing of cone with lava pond on side, Halemaumau.
Arrived here from Waiohinu at 12 o'clock. 2d visit, the crater not very active.
H.A. Ayer, 10 Sept 1872
Left Waiohinu at 6 a.m. and after a leisurely ride reached here at 7 p.m. Several
cones are active and spitting frequent and copious jets of lava.
A.G. Nichols, 14 Sept 1872
The old "Halemaumau" has assumed the appearance it had from 1845 to 1868,
that of an immense dome about 600 feet above the level of the centre of the crater. On its
summit are two lakes even full and from which every few hours streams of lava run in
every direction. There is nothing left of the high banks surrounding the "Old South
Lake." The crater is now something like the following:
D.H. Hitchcock, 21 Oct 1872
Illustration: Cross sectional perspective drawing of Halemaumau, D.H. Hitchcock, 21 Oct
1872.
Arrived from Kau at 4:30 p.m. Oct. 28th 1872. Found the crater very active, the
South Lake full and overflowing in every direction, and it continued active all night. The
29th we all descended into the crater and visited the lake, which well repaid us by the fine
display of Pele's fireworks. Returned to the Volcano House and after a good dinner
started for Hilo at 1:45 p.m.
F.L. Lyman, 29 Oct 1872
Arrived here at 5:30 p.m. from Keaiwa--was overtaken by rain some two or three
miles from here--fell asleep about 7:30 p.m. Was awakened suddenly at 8:30 p.m. that
evening, by some strangers in the shape of two men and three females, one of whom was
fair, passing fair. While having an agreeable chat we all turned toward the crater and lo
and behold we saw a very great flow--it (the molten lava) ran about a mile and a half
from where the overflow commenced, and in about five minutes afterwards the whole
bed of the crater was dotted with new cones of fire. The scene was beautiful in the
extreme and yet it was awful. The whole of us present held our peace and was silent for
some moments; for we were too much occupied with meditation on the wonderful sight
before us.
The strangers that came upon me so suddenly took their departure and I was left
alone in my glory....(he then quotes a poem by Thomas Moore)
no signature; possibly W.P. Ragsdale, 29 Oct 1872
Leave this day for Hilo. Pele still active.
W.P. Ragsdale, 30 Oct 1872
Arrived about 3 p.m. from Keaiwa after a tedious ride and frequent differences
with one of the most mulish mules that ever had long ears.
The heavy rains that had fallen during the three days past had obliterated all signs
of the trail and I lost my way in the low ground beyond Uwekahuna.
The two lakes previously spoken of still exist and a little fire may be seen but they are not
as active as two weeks ago when I first noticed them. There has evidently been extensive
flows from them and their banks are higher. Arriving at the house I found the driving
mist obscured the view of the crater.
It seems to me like a hospice as St. Bernard for wet, benighted, half-frozen
travellers, but they send out those dogs that have flasks of wine on their necks--did not
meet any--and on inquiry am told that there are none of that "breed of pups" in the Isles.
A.G. Nichols, 4 Nov 1872
Arrived here last night 10 p.m. from Hilo. It rained all the way from Hawelu's half
way house--the road was flooded with water. Found the crater very active, burning lava
pretty near all around the bed of the crater. Leave this morning for Waiohinu.
W.P. Ragsdale, 24 Nov 1872
The lava has been flowing from the South Lake to the foot of the west bank of
Kilauea the last few days, and is now flowing from the South Lake in a covered canal
towards the north bank of Kilauea, until it reaches the north bank of the depression of the
center of the crater (made April 2d 1868). It there pours over the bank in a cataract of
fire, and flows to the center of Kilauea in an easterly direction.
no signature, 26 Nov 1872
We arrived here last night at 6 p.m. having left Mr. N. George's store at Keaiwa
yesterday afternoon at 2 p.m. Weather nice. Fire in the crater moderate. Leave for Hilo
this morning.
W.P. Ragsdale, 29 Nov 1872
Volcano visited by Dr. David E. Dudley, Honolulu; C. Bellaite, Chicago; Mrs.
A.A. Hobbs, Cleveland, Master Perry Hobbs; Mrs. W.H. Davis, San Francisco. Had a
pleasant trip from Hilo. This party visited the active crater of Kilauea today, November
30th. After walking, for some two miles, over charred and blackened lava, from four
years old to only a few weeks, we arrived to a hill of lava which had flowed so recently
from the crater, that it was still hot, and in many places smoking, having barely acquired
sufficient strength to support us as we passed over it.
Upward and onward we went, following close to the guide, fully aware of our
danger, but excited and animated with the idea of doing what had not been done before
by ladies, and what had been accomplished but once or twice by any one. The guide too
seemed to partake of our excitement and to be determined we should be gratified in our
desire to "see the fire."
At length mounting upon a ridge of lava, a little higher than the rest, which had
flown down but two or three days previous, we walked rapidly forward, and in a few
seconds stood upon the very verge of the crater, and looking into it beheld a sight, such
as, when once seen, will be forever after, through life, vividly impressed upon the
memory.
Standing on the rim of this live volcano, some half a mile in circumference, and
looking down into its fearful depths, at least 500 feet, we saw the whole area below, of
some ten acres, one liquid mass of burning lava, boiling, foaming, and lashing itself
against the sides of the crater, with a roaring sound, like the breaking of the heavy ocean
surf against the rock-bound shore. Occasionally, the lava would shoot up a hundred feet
or more, frightfully suggestive of the possibility of its being sent at any moment to the
top, and falling where we stood.
One, two, perhaps three minutes we stood spell bound, riveted to the spot, when,
realizing keenly our danger, we tore ourselves away and walking rapidly back, thanked
God that our lives had been spared, while we witnessed this grand and terribly sublime
spectacle.
As wonderful and interesting as is this sight we could not advise travellers to go
to this view of the crater, unless it shall acquire more solidity and permanence than it now
has.
And now as this record is about filled, let a new book be obtained, and have this
preserved. Do not give it to any scientific society but let it be deposited with the Court
Records at Honolulu or Hilo for the benefit of all societies and scientific men.
C. Bellaite, 30 Nov 1872
Left Hilo yesterday two o'clock, stayed one night at Half way House, left there
this morning. Arrived here at one p.m., at two visited the crater which was very active.
Went to the brink and looked down at the sea of surging splashing lava--was very much
impressed with man's littleness and God's greatness. Procured some very rare pieces of
lava. Got back to the House at five o'clock, having made very quick work of it. I quite
agree with the party who says "It's five miles there and 7 1/2 back." the Celestial Boss is
all attention and the Steam Box is sound. I wish every infidel in the world could look at
the crater, his views would be somewhat altered I guess. Leave for Waiohinu tomorrow at
daylight.
Fred Haspelder, 4 Dec 1872
Illustration: Sketch of Halemaumau.smoking.
The above entry is accompanied by a sketch of Kilauea Dec. 10 (profile view) not signed
Visited the crater for the second time and was repaid by a sight far surpassing in
appalling grandeur that WHAT I witnessed before--then the action was limited to several
cones which, blowing so forcibly and accompanied by the pulsations of the lava beneath
could not fail to impress me, but it did not equal the scene of today. The lake we visited
was round, 150 yards in diameter and about 100 feet deep and rising gradually. The fiery
liquid was surging against its walls and enormous jets now and then would be thrown up-only a few drops however cleared the brink during our stay. We were much impressed
with the beauty of the petrified "waterfall" of the last month's flow over the brink of the
sunken portion of the old lava. Leave at noon for Waiohinu.
A.S.N., 11 Dec 1872
Returned yesterday from Waiohinu arriving about 5 p.m. We obtained a fine view
of the active lakes from the road on southerly edge of the crater. The elevation was such
that we looked directly into them. They were much more active than on the 11th, both
seemed quite full, and the lava was being thrown over in all directions. We stood for
many minutes gazing at the grand spectacle. That point affords by far the best view
obtainable. The activity increased and about 7 p.m. a large flow ran into the sunken part
of the crater in a northerly direction. It was over 1/2 mile long. This morning both lakes
seem as active as yesterday.
A.S.N., 14 Dec 1872
I was an eyewitness to the flow above mentioned by "ASN" which occurred on
the evening of the 15th. I was here some two or three hours on that evening while on my
way to Keaiwa. The activity of the crater has not abated any since the night of the 13th,
but in my opinion it has increased some. The genial hostess informs me that there were
two grand flows of molten lava at about 12 o'clock today. At this hour 8:30 p.m., the
crater is very active, and the sight indicates an increase of activity. At 5:30 this morning a
grand flow took place on the N.E. part of the crater, the burning lava running towards the
direction of Hilo, northeast. I leave for Hilo this evening at 9:30 p.m.
W.P. Ragsdale, 15 Dec 1872
The lake overflowed and one of two streams ran in a northeasterly direction
reaching half way down the hill, that is about half a mile in three-quarters of an hour.
Thomas L. Gulick, Alice N. Gulick, 24 Dec 1872
The following entry is badly torn. I have done my best to transcribe it, and in the areas
where the tears are, I have recorded the most likely word, based on the existence of, say,
the first three letters and the context.
The following was written by Mark Twain, having a letter acknowledging the
authorship.
Mark Twain's Strange Dream
All day long I have sat apart and pondered over the mysterious occurrence of last
night. There is no link lacking in the chain of incidents--my memory presents each in its
proper order with perfect distinctness, but still--However, never mind these reflections--I
will drop them and proceed to make a simple statement of the facts.
Towards eleven o'clock it was suggested that the character of the night was
peculiarly suited to viewing the mightiest active volcano on the earth's surface in its most
impressive sublimity. There was no light of moon, or star in the inky heavens to mar the
effect of the crater's gorgeous pyrothechnics.
In due time I stood with my companion on the wall of the cauldron which the
natives, ages ago, named "Halemaumau," the abyss wherein they were wont to throw the
remains of their chiefs to the end that no vulgar feet might ever tread above them.
We stood there, at dead of night, a mile above the level of the sea, and looked
down a thousand feet upon a boiling,surging, roaring ocean of fire. Shaded our eyes from
the blinding glare, and gazed far away over the crimson waves with a vague notion that a
supernatural fleet, manned by demons and freighted with the damned, might presently
sail up out of the remote distance, stare when tremendous thunder-bursts shook the earth
and followed with fascinated eyes the grand jets of molten lava that sprang high up
toward the zentith and exploded in a world of fiery spray that lit up the sombre heavens
with an infernal splendor.
"What is your little bonfire of Vesuvius to this?"
My ejaculation roused my companion from his reverie and we fell into a
conversation appropriate to the occasion and the surroundings.
We came at last to speak of the ancient custom of casting the bodies of dead
chieftains into this fearful cauldron, and my companion, who is of the blood royal,
mentioned that the founder of his race, old King Kamehameha the first, that invincible
old pagan Alexander, had found other sepulcher than the burning depths of the
Halemaumau.
I grew interested at once; I knew that the mystery of what became of the corpse of
the Warrior King had never been fathomed; I was aware that there was legend connected
with this matter, and I felt as if there could be no more fitting time to listen to it than
present. The descendant of the Kamehameha said:
"The dead King was brought in royal state up the long, winding road that
descends from the rim of the crater to the scorched and chasm-riven place that lies
between the Halemaumau and those walls yonder in the distance. The guards were sent
and the troops of mourners began the weird wail of the departed. In the middle of the
night came the sound of innumerable voices in the air, and the rush of invisible wings, the
funeral torches burned blue, and went out!
"The mourners and watchers fell to the ground paralyzed with fear, and many
minutes elapsed before anyone dare to move or speak, for they believed that the phantom
messengers of the dread Goddess of Fire had been in their midst.
"When at last a torch was lighted the place was vacant--the dead monarch had
been spirited away! Consternation seized upon all, and they fled out of the crater. When
the day dawned the multitude returned and began the search for the corpse. But not a
footprint, not a sign, was ever found. Day after day the search was continued, and every
cave in the great walls, and every chasm in the plain, for miles around, was explored, all
to no purpose--and from that day to this, the resting place of the lion-King's bones is an
unsolved mystery. But years afterwards, when the grim prophetess Hiakawa Kawaka lay
on her death-bed the Goddess Pele appeared to her in a vision and told her that eventually
the secret would be revealed--and in a remarkable manner, but not until great Kauhuhu
the shark god, should desert the sacred cavern Ana Puhi, in the island of Molokai and the
waters of the sea should no more enter it and its floors should become dry.
"Ever since that time, the simple confident natives have watched for the sign. And
now after many and many a summer has come and gone, and they who were in the flower
of youth then have waxed old and and died, the day is at hand! The great shark god has
deserted the Ana Puhi. A month ago, for the first time within the records of the ancient
legends, the sea has ceased to flow into the cavern, and its stony pavement has become
dry! As you may easily believe, the news of this great event spread like wild-fire through
the Islands, and now the natives are looking every hour for the miracle, which is to unveil
the hisrtoy, and reveal the secret grave of the dead hero."
After I had gone to bed, I got to thinking of the volcanic magnificence we had
witnessed and could not get to sleep. I hunted up a book and concluded I would pass the
time in reading. The first chapter I came upon related several instances of remarkable
revelations, made to men through the agency of dreams, of roads and houses, trees,
fences and all manner of land-marks, shown in visions and recognized afterward in
waking, and which served to point the way to some dark mystery or other. At length I fell
asleep, and dreamed that I was abroad in the great plain that skirts the Halemaumau. I
stood in a sort of twilight that softened the tone of surrounding objects, and still left them
tolerably distinct. A gaunt muffled figure stepped from the shadow of a rough column of
lava, and moved away with a slow and measured step. Beckoning me to follow, I did so. I
marched down, down, hundreds of feet, upon a narrow which wound its tortuous course
through piles and pyramids of seamed and blackened lava, and under overhanging masses
of sulphur formed by the artist's hand of nature into an infinitude of fanciful shapes.
The thought crossed my mind that possibly my phantom guide might lead me
down among the bowels of the earth, and then disappear, and leave me to grope my way
through its mazes and work out my deliverance as best I might, and so, with an eye to
such a contingency, I picked up a stone and "blazed" my course by breaking off a
projecting corner occasionally from the lava walls and sulphur.
Finally we turned into a cleft in the crater's wall, and our way through it intricate
windings for many a fathom toward the home of the subterranean fires, our _____ all the
way by a ruddy glow which filtered up through occasional glimpses of the flood of
molten lava boiling and hissing in the profound depoths below us. The heat was intense,
and the sulphurous atmosphere suffocating, but I toiled on in the footsteps of my stately
guide and no complaint. At last we came to a rugged chasm whose solemn and blistered
walls spake with mute eloquence of some fiery tempest that had spent its fury here ages
ago. The spectre pointed to a boulder at the farther extremity--stood and pointed silent
and motionless for a few fleeting moments and then disappeared.
"The grave of the Great Kamehameha!" The words swept mournfully by, from an
unknown source, and died away in the distant corridors of my prison ___ and I was alone
in the bowels of the earth, in the ____ of desolation, in the presence of death!
My frightened impulse was to fly, but a stronger impulse arrested me and
impelled me to approach the massive ____ the spectre had pointed at. With hesitating
step I went forward and stood beside it--nothing there; I grew bold and walked around
and about it, peering shrewdly into the shadowy half-light that surrounded it--still
nothing. I paused to consider. While I stood irresolute I chanced to brush the ponderous
with my elbow, and lo! It vibrated to my touch! I would as soon have thought of starting
a kiln of brick with my feeble hand. My curiosity was excited. I bore against the boulder
and it still yielded--I gave a sudden push with my whole strenth, and it toppled from its
foundation with a crash that sent the echoes thundering down the avenue passages of the
dismal cavern. And there, in a shallow excavation, over which it had rested, lay the
crumbling skeleton of King Kamehameha the Great, thus sepulchered in long years, by
supernatural hands! The bones could be none other, for with them lay the rare and
priceless crown of pulamalama _________ sacred to royalty, and tabu to all else besides.
A hollow groan issued our of the ----I woke up. How glad I was to know it was all
a dream! This comes of listening to the legend of the noble chief--of reading those lying
down revelations--of allowing myself to be carried away by the wild beauty of Kilauea at
midnight--of ____ too much pork and beans for supper. And so I turned over and fell
asleep again--and dreamed the same dream precisely as before; followed the sme
phantom guide--"blazed" my course--arrived at the grim chamber--heard the sad ____
voice--overturned the massy stone--beheld the regal ____the decaying bones of the Great
Kamehameha ____--I woke up, and reflected long upon this curious and irregularly vivid
dream, and finally muttered to myself, "This--this is becoming serious!" I fell asleep
again, and again I dreamed the same dream, without a single variation: I slept no more,
but tossed restlessly in bed and longed for daylight. And when it came I wandered forth,
and descended to the wide plain in the crater. I said to myself: I am not supersitious but if
there is anything in that dying woman's prophecy I am the instrument appointed to
unravel this ancient mystery." As I walked along, I even half expected to see my solemn
guide step out from a nook in the lofty wall, and beckon me to come on. At last when I
reached the place where I had first seen him in my dream, I recognized every surrounding
object, and there, winding down among the blocks and fragments of lava, I saw the very
trail I had traversed in my vision! I resolved to traverse it again, come what might. I
wondered if in my unreal journey I had "blazed" my way, so that it would stand the test
of stern reality, and thus wondering, a chill went to my heart when I came to the first
strong projection I had broken off in my dream, and the fresh new fracture, and the
dismembered fragment lying on the ground! My curiosity rose up and banished all fear,
and I hurried as long asthe rugged nature of the ____ would allow me. I looked for my
other "blazes" _____ found them, found the cleft in the wall; recognized all its turnings,
walked in the light that ascended from the glowing furnaces visitble far below; sweated in
the close hot atmosphere, and breathed the sulphur smoke--and at last stood hundreds of
feet beneath the ____ of Kilauea, in the ruined chamber, and presence of the mysterious
boulder!
"This is no dream," I said, "this is a revelation from the realm of the supernatural;
and it becomes no __ to longer reason, conjecture, suspect, but blindly to ____ the
impulses given me by the unseen power that guides me." I moved with slow and
reverential step toward the stone and bore against it. It ____ perceptibly to the pressure.I
brought my full might and strength to bear and surged against it. It yielded again but I
was so enfeebled by the toilsome ____ that I could not overthrow it. I rested a little,
raised an edge of the boulder by a strong sturdy ____ and placed a small stone under it to
keep it from sinking back into its place. I rested again and repeated the process. Before
long I had added a ____ prop, and had got the edge of the boulder considerably elevated.
The labor and the close atmosphere ______ was so exhausting, however, that I was
obliged to lie down, then, and recuperate my strength by a season of rest. And so , hour
after hour I labored growing more and more weary. But still upheld a fascination which I
felt was infused into me by the invisible powers whose will I was working.
At last I concentrated my strength in a final effort and the stone rolled from its
foundation.
I can never forget the overpowering sense of awe that sank down on my spirit at
that moment. After a solemn pause to prepare myself, _______, and uncovered dread, I
slowly turned my gaze till it rested on the spot where the great __ had lain.
There weren't any bones there!
I just said to myself, "Well if this ain't the ____ infernalest swindle that ever I've
come across___ may never!"
You can't bet anything on_______
In this entry, the blanks indicate places where the page is torn and there is no word
remaining. Here the page is torn, with the bottom quarter removed.
Illustration: The Crater of Kilauea 1865; elaborate full-page map. Last page in the
volume.
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Selected Entries From
The Volcano House Register, Volume 2
1873-1885
Concerning Eruptive Activity or Changes in Kilauea and Mauna Loa
Between 11 and 12 last night Mokuaweoweo started action again. The wind has
been from the southward, and the whole day a dense body of smoke has been passing
over Kilauea and across Puna, off to sea. Evidently a much greater portion of the crater is
in action than in the eruption of August last. Had a heavy thunder shower about dusk with
hail and this evening there is considerable lightning. Weather hazy and top of mountain
seldom visible. Kilauea quite active but no lava flowing.
D. Kamai, 7 Jan 1873
Arrived at 2:30 A.M. from Hilo en route for Kau. An extensive eruption of Mauna
Loa was said to have been seen yesterday from Hilo, the flow being in the direction of
Kailua. On my ride up I could see no light in that direction although the night was clear.
Kilauea is rolling forth great volumes of smoke and steam--no fire to be seen this morn.
G.J., 18 Jan 1873
Arrived this morning from Hilo. No further account of the eruption of M. Had a
good view of the crater this morning--the lakes have all joined--no fire seen. Under the
guidance of my worthy host I visited the sulphur banks for the first time although passing
frequently. I had presumed that in specimen cases I had seen the best of Pele's
productions but today was shown, sublimed fresh, from Nature's vast retorts the most
beautiful crystals of sulphur and alum(?) They surpass any specimens that can be carried
away--they fall in powder at the touch and like many of Nature's exhibitions must be seen
in situ.
A.S.N., 23 Jan 1873
Arrived yesterday from Hilo after a ride of 11 1/2 hours. There was considerable
activity, 11 fountains of fire, and waves of fire perpetually breaking into fiery spray.
Much pleased with the comfort of the Volcano House.
Isabella Bird, 31 Jan 1873
Judging from what everyone has written, it seems necessary to commence by
saying we arrived here.
This arrival was mainly due to Joe Puni, our guide and a very good guide he is.
He is rather apt to be facetious but is not irrepressible. We would advise anyone having
him as guide to make him go to the crater as he is an excellent hand carrying specimens
of lava etc., and as he is a pretty heavy man, he makes an excellent leader over doubtful
places. (This is a puff for Joe.)
Found old Pele rather active during the day, and this evening the old girl is
illuminating grandly, but she is not doing her best and as the natives tell us on undoubted
authority will not do it again until this present king dies and another is elected. Joe is a
good Christian, but he believes in that freak of Miss Pele implicitly, giving the reason
that it always has been so, even at the recent election of Lunalilo and strange to say
argument couldn't convince him against what he has seen.
The view of the crater and the two lakes is really grand but if one goes a short
distance westerly from when the crater is first seen, the sight is something terrible. Here
are two mounds and a slight declivity, and each place is a hole in the crust which enables
one to look below, and notice at the same time how this is the arch over the red-hot
cavern into which he is looking.
Found the lava so hot near the crater, that it set our walking sticks on fire and we
even lit our cigars without much difficulty.
In accordance with the authorities quoted above, we close by saying that we start
for Hilo tomorrow morning at 5:30.
A.B. Carter, Lieut., 24 Feb 1873
Today I went into the crater with my father, mother, and brother. It was very
active, and I looked into the holes of the cones, and it seemed like looking into the center
of the earth. It was all fire. I got a great many different kinds of lava. It was very hard
climbing.
Mary H. Williams, 8 years old, 1 March 1873
A fine clear day. Made the descent into the crater--the fires in South Lake were
very active, bursting up at intervals in jets and large swelling fountains. The lake is at
present divided into two about equal parts by a wall of lava. At times the whole surface
was molten; again it would cool ___ presenting a gray satiny appearance. As the action
increases in the center this crust breaks in great cakes which are absorbed in the molten
mass. The most interesting feature that we observed was the cone south of the lake;
looking through an opening at the base one sees great boulders that seem melting with
fervent heat, stalactites six and eight feet long hang from the roof, and at a depth that
seems at least ten hundred feet, the molten lava boils and seethes. There are three
openings at a little distance apart which give these views into the interior fire, and to us
they seemed the most wonderful and fascinating of all the sights within the crater.
Thirteen years ago I visited the crater and I now find very great changes have
taken place since that visit. The floor of the crater has undergone much depression in the
centre and large overflows have taken place from the South Lake making a toilsome
ascent to the edge of the lake.
At 2:15 P.M. Mr. Nordhoff and the writer left the Volcano House for South Lake,
reaching it in fifty minutes; remained at the lake forty minutes and returned in sixty-seven
minutes for the whole trip. The fire in the lake was very active but we could only
approach one of the cones because of the dense sulphurous smoke and the fumes, of
which are overpowering.
Charles Augustus Williams and family, 1 March 1873
In visiting the two lakes this day, we noticed two things: 1st, that the wind, when
strong, as it was during part of the morning, sensibly affects the rapidity with which the
lava is driven from one side of the lake to the other; 2d, that when the lake has been quiet
for some minutes and entirely covered over with the gray scum, or solidified lava, there
being then no exit for the gases, there comes first a violent ebullition, over the surface:
with a somewhat vehement burst of molten lava, and this is accompanied by a strong
draft of very hot wind from behind the observers and towards the lake--or with the wind-so hot that several times it was almost unendurable. This hot wind proceeded from the
numerous cracks in the lava beds: and made the lava sometimes too hot for our feet, so
that we had to shift about from one foot to the other. This would seem to show that at
such times the gases, failing to escape from the lake's surface, were driven back beneath
the expanse of cold lava, and found their way out by the numerous cracks.
Madame Pele was very kind to us. We had a magnificent show; the farther lake
actually roared and was the finest. But one needs to look out for a sudden change of wind
there.
Charles Nordhoff, 3 March 1873
We arrived at quarter past three. It was raining a very fine rain when we arrived
here. It was quite active last night.
D. Howard Hitchcock, Jr., 6 March 1873
J.N. Gilman and above gentleman visited the crater this afternoon. The crater has
sunk some 80 feet from its first level, on my visit Feby. 4th, 1873. The bank on the east
side, where the lava surged against, has caved in, and also the bank on the west side. On
the north side of the lake is a fountain of liquid lava bubbling up and pouring into the
large lake below like a stream of water. The crater or south lake is divided by a partition
which forms two lakes. The fire of the first lake you come to plays more in the centre of
the lake and works easterly and bursts out again and again. The lake from the other as
you stand on the north side is quiet. The fire is right under the bank and throwing out fire
at intervals from under the bank.
James Taylor Hulose, 18 March 1873
Visited the lake today for the first time and was greatly impressed by its grandeur.
The south lake was very active, the jets of lava reaching to within about fifty feet of the
top of the bank.
Godfrey Brown, 22 March 1873
Visited the crater March 29th. Strong wind blowing from the north. Light showers
and mist, The crater was active, had risen some 60 feet since 18th inst.
no signature, 29 March 1873
Arrived at the Volcano House in 7 hours and 35 minutes from Hilo. On the 14th
went down to the crater and found it very active.
B.B. Tracy, 13 April 1873
Arrived here from Keaiwa at 15 min. to 4 P.M. Pele not very active. It rained
some yesterday afternoon. Slept here last night and will leave today for Hilo.
W.P. Ragsdale, 24 April 1873
Arrived here 6 p.m. yesterday from Hilo. Saw the crater this morning rather
active. Raining a little. Start back to Hilo.
Nancy K. Montgomery, 3 May 1873
Descended into the crater, it is quite active, and much changed since my last visit
Dec. 1872. This is my fourteenth visit to the Fires of Kilauea within four and a half years,
and I am more interested in the volcano now than when I first saw it.
Frank Thompson, 20 May 1873
Arrived May 22nd 1873 from San Leandro, California. Mrs. White remained at
the Volcano House until May 29th while I visited Mauna Loa via Mr. Reed's ranch.
Reached the crater at noon on the 27th. A jet of lava was playing in the southwest pit
generally about 150 feet in height, sometimes it rose to 300 feet or more. The great lake
was not agitated but showed a great deal of fire at night. We were not able to approach
nearer than the summit of the crater, the way down onto the 2nd bench being torn away
probably by a recent earthquake. The lava is about 800 feet below the bluff of the crater.
We slept on the bluff. Ice was made in our canteens. The winds were strong and cold.
Snow lay in small quantities in places and we had a supply of water from the openings
and crevices abundant everywhere. A slight earthquake was experienced about 6 p.m. at
Mr. Reed's ranch, May 28th. On return arrived at Volcano House May 29th at 8:30 a.m.
The ascent of Mauna Loa is exceedingly difficult, and visitors attempting it should have
good mules and an abundant supply of very warm clothing.
Rev. A.F. White and Mrs. C.T. White, 29 May 1873
Arrived with Miss Bird the 3rd inst. at 6:30 p.m. from Hilo. Visited the Lake on
the 4th. It remains very much as described by late visitors, the surface of the molten lake
(now divided by a wall into two) appearing to be 50 or 60 feet below the edge. The
surface gets covered with what Mr. Williams (page 7) calls a "gray satiny" scum or tough
flexible crust which always appeared to be drawn towards the northeast bank and there to
be drawn down or under. The most violent jetting of "vermilion and blood" colored lava
occurring apparently where the crust or scum went down. The jetting places appear to me
like whirlpools, which draw down air with the descending currents of molten lava --and if
so its escape in a highly heated and therefore expanded state (as a highly elastic gas)
would throw up the molten lava again in jets, clots, and dabs. Would not the hot lava
from below always tend to rise while the surface or cooled-off portion would tend to
sink? More smoke (or dense white fumes) were seen at the lakes this time than either I or
Miss Bird had seen on previous visits. I am inclined to agree with Mr. Gilman and others
who state that when the molten lava is deep down there is more smoke than when it is
near the surface. There is often a great quantity of molten lava and little or no smoke.
This is a point of some interest and might if confirmed by continued observations give
some clue to the cause of the smoke. The level of the molten lava in the lake is some two
to three hundred feet above the general level of the depression (a mile or so long) over
which you walk to the lake. It is contained by walls formed by its own rising and
outpourings. Is not Mauna Loa crater 10,000 feet above us, and now active-- a repetition
on a grand scale of the phenomena of South Lake as it exists at present? We leave today
with the hope of reaching this crater tomorrow night. This mountain during the late clear
nights has shown its huge outline distinctly and the glare of the molten lava in the crater
looks as Miss Bird remarked "a very lovely light."
P.S. Amongst the phenomena at this crater, there is perhaps nothing more
remarkable and unique than to find an excellent & comfortable road side Inn on its brink,
with a thoroughly hospitable and attentive landlord. For real substantial comfort a San
Francisco or New York hotel is inferior the the "Volcano House."
W.L. Green, 5 June 1873
Reached here about 4 p.m. yesterday from Hilo. Visited the crater this p.m., very little
action.
S.W. Pogue, 2 July 1873
Crater active, lakes full to the brim
L. Severance, 5 July 1873
On Tuesday July 8th at 9 a.m. the lava with which the South Lake has been filled
for some time past, broke through on the eastern slope facing the Volcano House and has
been running towards, and into the basin ever since. Last night the South Lake was very
active and still full--although the new flow of over a half mile in width--still continued.
The crater on the summit was also active. Weather very rainy.
G. Jones, 8 July 1873
Left Kona Wednesday July 23rd afternoon on Harry Cook's animals and arrived
at the Volcano House Saturday noon July 26th. Visited the crater on the 27th, found both
lakes and the cones tolerably active and saw the bank of liquid lava flowing down the
side of the South Lake towards the lower one with a velocity of (we judge) 30 to 35 miles
an hour.
N. Simpson, 27 July 1873
We left Kona Wednesday Aug 6th at 4:30 p.m., reached the summit of Mauna
Loa at 9:30 Aug. 9th--found the volcanic action in about the same state of activity as
described by Rev. Mr. White, page 16 [29 May 1873], and Miss Bird, page 19. Left the
crater at 7:00 Aug. 10th and arrived at Volcano House at 5:30 same day.
Aug. 11. Kilauea. The outflow from the south lake mentioned by Mr. Jones, page
25, still flows and is visible through a large crack. It appears to be about twenty feet wide
and flows like a mountain torrent. One of the cones, or mounds, has burst off its cap and
cracked its side nearly down to its base giving a startling view of the inner sea of fire.
Some parts of the cone are settling down. The lava is still flowing into the lower basin.
Aug. 12. "Oh Lord, how wonderful are they works!" We start for Hilo at 7:00 this
morning. The weather has been pleasant.
Dr. O.B. Adams, Surgeon, Str. "Costa Rica" and Mrs. O.B. Adams, San Francisco, 6-12
Aug 1873
Page 19, mentioned in the above entry, has been cut out of the Register.
We left Hilo Tuesday morning 15th inst. and arrived here in 7 1/2 hours traveling
time. Good weather all the way. Cheered on our arrival with a rousing wood fire and a
good hearty dinner. On Saturday morning guided by our attentive host Gilman, visited
the domain of Madame Pele, a;nd with reverential awe gazed on the stupendous scene.
Language fails to describe what we saw. The sight must be seen to be understood. One of
our party (not the writer) in sitting down to rest on the lava found his seat warm, and on
investigation found himself sitting on a fire crack. We found our accomodations so very
comfortable, our board so good, and our host, attentive and obliging that we have stayed
over today and intend(D.V.) starting tomorrow mor'g for Mr. Reed's Ranch and on to
Waiohinu.
signature illegible but he's from Honolulu and age 41; 17 Aug 1873
Left Capt. Eldarts at 6 o'clock yesterday morning and arrived here last night 5
minutes to 6. Visited the lakes today, nothing but what has been described better than I
can do it. Think the cones will fall in soon making another lake, also that the two lakes
will join.
My host is a "brick." Would like to stay here a month.
Robt. M. Fuller, 24 Aug 1873
Crater very active.
L. Severance, 29 Aug 1873
I have just returned from a very interesting trip to the crater of Mokuaweoweo on
Mauna Loa. Started from Kapapala with my guide John B. Kitu, a half-caste, at about 10
o'clock on the 18th, and stayed at Ainapo, the upper ranch, until half-past one. From there
a man with pack mule and tent with food and blankets accompanied us and we all kept on
our way up through the koa woods until four o'clock when we reached the ususal
camping ground. As it was so early, and as I was anxious to get as far as possible on the
first day, we pressed on for three miles farther up the mountain where we found a very
good camping ground where we pitched our tent and made a large fire, and spent a
comfortable night. I had intended to start by five in the morning, but in the night a horse
and a mule got away and went down the mountain. John started at three in the dark for
them and reached camp again at six o'clock. We left "Hall's camp" at 6:30, and after
passing or climbing over the most awful road I ever saw for four hours, we reached the
crater at 10:30 o'clock. From the place where we left our horses we went along the bank
towards the north....We went to the northeast point, and looking down the precipice, say
about eight hundred feet, over the shelving mass of loose rocks and debris, I thought we
might possibly venture to go down. I asked John if he would be willing to go with me,
and he said "yes." So we started down, crawling carefully over the loose boulders, and
letting ourselves down over huge rocks, until after half an hour's awful labor we reached
the bottom...which is now entirely covered with the flow of last year. From where we
stood the awful walls of rock arose on every side, and it looked as though no human
being could ever ascend from that vast depth. We had not time to go to the active south
lake where the molten lava was heaving and surging with loud reports and hissing where
we entered. There are many blowholes in this field, and from some of them I collected
specimens of lava too hot to be held in the naked hand. At night fires can be seen in these
holes, and at all times the hot steam and gases rising with a hissing sound. The heat of the
black pahoehoe was so great as to blister my feet through a thick pair of boots. We
returned by the same way by which we had descended, and when we were again on the
bank I felt that God had indeed protected us in a most singular way from every harm, and
thanked Him for His goodness ...It was a most fortunate thing for me that I had no bad
feelings whatever, and could make as much exertion there as down here. Had it been
otherwise I should never have attempted such a descent...About a mile from where our
horses were we came across stone walls that must have been built for the sides of a house
or camp. I found an iron eye-bolt and a piece of soft pine, both of which must have been
there thirty years. I think this was Wilke's camp of 1841, and I brought these away as
relics. The crack containing water and ice seems to continue nearly round to the point
where we descended, and in some places the openings are large enough to bathe in. We
reached the horses, ate some lunch, and started down at 2:30 o'clock, well paid for our
great exertions. The only party I have ever heard of going to the bottom before consisted
of Chas. Hall and Mr. Wormer, their account is found in the old book, under date of Apr.
17, 1865. We camped that night at the usual camping ground
and from there I went to Kapapala.
W.W. Hall, 22 Sept 1873
Illustration: Map of Mokuaweoweo, 22 Sept 1873, W.W. Hall; includes Lake Bottom
covered with 1872 flow and source of Hilo flow. Page 32.
Arrived here after sundown, weather wet, could not see anything that night.
Started down in the crater early the next morning and found the large lake in splendid
action. Stayed down about five hours. That same evening at half past ten there was a
splendid flame and it came out of the lake in five different places and kept running all
night, and never saw any like it and have been to every eruption since 1850.
Geo. Kamakua Hanahii, 22 Sept 1873
We found the crater unusually active.
Ellen L. Rowell, William Wright and party (included Sophie Emerson, 7th visit), 24 Sept
1873
Arrived at the Volcano House Sep. 18th from Kau. Found the crater very active,
witnessed a splendid sight Monday night, the lava flowing from the mouth of the crater
like streams of liquid gold resembling in form ten thousand snakes.
John L. Cumberson, 1st visit, 26 Sept 1873
Arrived here on 25th. Crater active, flowing all night--towards the Volcano
House. Weather fine and clear. Since my last visit in '68 the crater is so much changed
that I cannot recognize a place in it--the South Lake then is now a large cone with one or
two lakes which boil to the surface and flow.
T. Spencer, 27 Sept 1873
Arrived at Kilauea from Mokuaweoweo the following persons: H.R. Hitchcock,
E.R. Folson, E.G. Hitchcock.
no signature, 23 Oct 1873
Fourteen years ago. The crater has filled up by one half. A broad lake of pahoehoe
occupies the site of a basaltic cone set with small garnets and large crystals of olivine.
The two craters 1859 and 1874 are almost totally unlike.
J.E. Chamberlain (with F.L. Lyman), 17 Jan 1874
John Lydgate, 2nd visit. 27 Jan 1874
That's all, just his signature.
This day, March 11th, 1874, eve, the undersigned visited the burning lake in the
crater, in order to obtain a good view we stood on a ledge, about 8 feet wide 30 feet long.
Whilst standing there, we heard a swashing sound apparently under our feet, we stepped
off the ledge and by the time we had got 10 feet from it the whole fell in with a crash. We
leave this record as a warning to future travelers to be cautious and not trust too implicitly
to their guides--as the lava is constantly breaking in and changing it is scarcely possible
for those most familiar with the crater to know with certainty where it is safe.
L.E. Harris, 11 March 1874
Simple justice to the guide compels me to state that the abover party went on to
the ledge mentioned in direct opposition to the advice of the guide, who had taken them
to the safe place always visited by tourists.
Pele, 17 March 1874
We walked four or five miles over fields of lava where the flow had assumed
fantastic shapes, sometimes twisted together like coils of rope and sometimes heaped up
in petrified fountains. Reaching the lake, we found it surrounded by banks one hundred or
one hundred and fifty feet high, and ringed around the edge with a line of liquid lava that
kept bubbling and boiling upward in glowing cascades, sometimes throwing up jets of
spray. Now and then, the center of the lake heaved up the crust and tossed up showers of
the fiery liquid, but the heavy clouds of smoke obscured much from our view.
The scene tonight is grand: the reflection from the fiery pit gives a lurid glare to
the smoke and overhanging clouds. Cool breeze, light rain, Ther. 62.
March 24, 1874. Since the above was written the South Lake has been gradually
filling up till last night, when it overflowed: at 8 o'clock the whole of the edge of the lake
on the side facing this house was alight with the flowing lava. It appeared from here to be
violently agitated, jets of spray being thrown high in air at intervals. the clouds hung low
over the crater and the flowing mass lit up the dark clouds with peculiar brilliancy. A
sudden change in the weather has accompanied this outbreak--cold wind without rain,
thermometer 42.
L.M.C., California, 17 March 1874
Since the above was written the South Lake has been gradually filling up till last
night, when it overflowed. At 8:00 the whole of the edge of the Lake on the side facing
this house was alight with the flowing lava. It appeared--from here--to be violently
agitated--jets of spray being thrown high in air at intervals. The clouds hung low over the
crater and the flowing mass lit up the dark clouds with peculiar brilliancy. A sudden
change in the weather has accompanied this outbreak--cold wind without rain.
Thermometer 42 degrees. The traveling public's most obedient.
no signature, 24 March 1874
...Arrived here 4 p.m., passed a comfortable night with our agreeable host, and
this morning visited the South Crater which according to what we saw written in this
book we found about in the usual state of activity; some forty feet below where we were
standing and boiling and spouting up in various parts of the molten lake. Returned to the
house and after a good dinner and comfortable smoke find ourselves none the worse for
our rough jaunt over Pele's bosom.
J.G. Cooper, 30 March 1874
...Went down to see Madam Pele, was not at all disappointed, nor felt none the
worse for coming although my trip being rough on board the schooner, for it is a grand
sight to behold. The south east lake was spouting its red hot lava in seven different places
while the west lake was rolling like great waves of the sea.
Henry Minges, 15 April 1874
Crater is very active and weather fine.
May B. Grant, Mrs. L.E. Thomson, Frank Thomson, etc., 23 April 1874
The lava has been flowing from the open lake all day. The path over which we
crossed in the morning to reach the lakes was quite covered by the molten stream, on our
return we were obliged to turn aside from the usual road to get back.
Frank Thompson, J.T. Waterhouse Jr., 9 June 1874
P.S. After an interval of 10 years I find Madame Pele very much changed in her
personal appearance.
J.T.W. Jr., no date
June 5th. Arrived from Hilo after a ride of nine hours in the rain, found the
volcano active; it had been overflowing for a week and we found plenty of flowing lava
in the bottom of the crater. Left for summit of Mauna Loa on the 8th by way of Mr.
Reed's ranch...Upon our arrival at Mr. Reed's we were pleased to find that Mr. Lydgate
and Mr. Shipman who had heard of our intended trip, were waiting to join us in our
expedition to the top of the mountain.
Left Mr. Reed's about noon next day and about 5 o'clock camped at the usual
camping ground. Started early next morning and after traveling over the roughest road in
the Kingdom we reached the summit at 1 p.m.
We however felt well repaid for our trouble and fatigue when we stood on the
brink of the greatest crater of the Island and saw the boiling and jetting lake at the
bottom. Kilauea and its lake lost their importance for we were looking into a crater of
much larger area and twice the depth, and at a larger and more active lake. We spent the
afternoon in watching the fires and taking measurements. Spent the night rather
uncomfortably on the eastern edge of the crater with a small tent for our covering and the
rocks for our bed. Some of our party were disturbed by mountain sickness, but there was
nothing serious happened except that three mules took their leave of us during the night.
We mention this last fact as it is of especial importance in making our estimate of the size
of the crater and the exact height of the lava jets. Came down the mountain under the
guidance of Henry Gandell the Hawaiian "Kit Carson" and although the fog was so dense
that we could scarcely see each other we arrived safely at the upper ranch at 1 o'clock all
well pleased with our trip and more than pleased with our guide.
J.M. Bookwalter, E.J. Bookwalter, H.R. Gingel, all of Springfield, Ohio, 15 June 1874
The above statements as regards the crater of Mokuaweoweo are somewhat
overdone.
John Lydgate, no date
The plan of the crater of Mokuaweoweo is from actual survey by triangulation. A
base of 1876 feet was measured on the eastern side and from this, using a seven inch
Queen transit, some twenty points were fixed indicative of the shape, topography, etc., of
the crater, Its greatest length including the basin at the north end is 17,000 feet, or about,
3.2 miles; excluding this it is 15,000 feet; its greatest breadth is 8600 feet or about 1.7
miles; its greatest depth 1050 feet. The floor, however, is continually rising owing to
repeated overflows, and the lake is about 500 feet in diameter, and at the time of our visit
was quite active, more so than I have ever seen Kilauea. Several relics of the Wilkes
expedition were found, including a part of a
barometer tube.
John M. Lydgate, 24 June 1874
Illustration: Full-page map of Crater of Mokuaweoweo, 10 June 1874, J.M. Lydgate.
Page 47.
Volcano is very active. Crater filling up with new lava, but evidently sinking
more and more as a whole. Halemaumau half the height of the lower or southern bank.
Mokuaweoweo brilliant last evening.
D.H. Hitchcock, 8 July 1874
Arrived from Kau. Weather misty. Volcano active. On the 9th visited the crater
and found the South and middle lakes burning fiercely with a great flow from __ into the
centre.
G.W. Jones, R. Lyman, etc., 8 July 1874
At 7:30 this evening, two sharp, quick shocks of earthquake were felt here--an
interval of about three minutes between them. The new flow begun last night seems to be
gaining, a large portion of the central basin being alight with the flowing lava.
G., possibly Gilman, 10 July 1874
...Yesterday visited the crater--found Mad. Pele--Vulcan and Comp. quite active-brilliant fireworks day and night.
Theod C. Heuck, 18 July 1874
Found the volcano in a marked state of activity. Visited Halemaumau and saw a
stream of lava apparently flowing in an easterly direction towards the center of Kilauea.
Afterwards passed over the surface covering a flow directed towards the same point
proceeding from the southeastern division of the South Lake. Procured fine specimens in
the center of the great basin of the fresh-flowing lava, probably coming from the above
flow. This party was favored with the finest of weather. In leaving they beg to express
their appreciation of the kind attention of "mine host" of the Volcano House. Left for
Hilo Thursday morning July 23rd 1874.
Helen E. Carpenter and party, 21 July 1874
Arrived at the Volcano House Tuesday July 28th at 5:30 p.m. from Hilo by way
of Puna, in company with Mr. Hitchcock. At 8:30 a.m. Wednesday we went down into
the crater, found it in action, going down we walked over to the old flow to the left. I
gathered a few specimens, some coin, we came back another road, in some places it was
very hot under our feet, and in some places we could see the fire, only 12 inches under
our feet. Got back to the house at 12:15 M. I was well pleased with the devil's pots and
also with the landlord and the accommodations of the house, we leave here tomorrow
morning for a trip around Hawaii.
J.J. Agnew, San Francisco, 29 July 1874
Left Hilo July 30th at seven o'clock and arrived at the volcano four o'clock in the
afternoon. We had a fine view of the crater after sundown, the volcano being in fine
action. In the morning about nine o'clock we went down into the crater and walked across
to the fire. On our way back our guide found some fine specimens of lava. One place we
found the lava flowing, there we put some coin in taking it up on the end of our walking
sticks to cool. We arrived at the Volcano House again at twelve, where we found our
most hospitable host awaiting dinner.
Sitting down hungry we did ample justice to the generous provision spread before
us, also some of the choicest delicacies of the season.
After spending another night under this hospitable roof we with much regret at
leaving our kamaaina lokomaikai whom we shall consider our fast friends mount our
horses this morning at six o'clock for Hilo, again looking back to our trip with the highest
satisfaction. To Madam Pele we bid thee farewell. To our friends of the Volcano House a
kind adieu.
C.A. Akau, M.L. Akau, E.K. Cluney, K. Lahainaluna, 30 July 1874
Arrived at the Volcano House 14th Aug. 1874 and started back to Hilo on the
17th. Had splendid sights at Madame Pele and were most hospitably entertained by our
ever obliging host.
F. Wm. Pfluger, 14-17 Aug 1874
During the last 3 or 4 months I have been here considerable, while engaged in the
survey of Olaa, Kapapala, etc. February 13th came very near losing my life by falling
over the bluff at Wekahuna where it is 50 feet high. In the first 20 feet I struck 3 or 4
times and in the remaining clear fall somersault, and struck on my thigh on a threecornered stone, badly fracturing the ilium. For 2 hours I lay here hollering, with the hope
of attracting some passing native, which I finally did. I was carried to the house and
remained here a week, unable to move.
John M. Lydgate and Louy Lydgate, on the Survey of Keauhou, 25 Aug 1874
Arrived from Waiohinu on the evening of the 29th August '74, with the intention
of staying eight days at the Volcano House. Visited the crater in company with Mr.
Gilman and a native guide, and found its bed entirely changed since my last visit in 1867.
Although at my previous visits I have seen more lakes in the Kilauea in action, I never
saw any one lake in a greater state of commotion than this time and I spent several hours
at the burning lakes with intense interest and equal satisfaction.
We found the South
Lake divided into two lakes of similar size by a bank about 40 feet high and the approach
to either of them rather more difficult as in years past, on account of recent overflows of
lava. Approaching the left hand lake we had to pass through a great deal of sulphuric
smoke which necessarily shortened our stay there and prevented us from going as near to
the brink of the lake as we should have wished, but still allowed an impressive glance at
the surging and spouting liquid fire.
The right hand lake, seen from a bank about 80 feet high, presented a magnificent
spectacle. The bed of the lake was in constant commotion. Along its banks the waves of
liquid fire dashed into spray like the waves of the ocean on the rock-bound coast and at
times the molten lava was thrown high into the air by some hidden power, like a majestic
fiery fountain, drawing all the surrounding masses into its whirlpool. The spectacle was
fascinating in the extreme and we lingered for a long while, gazing at the constantly
changing scene before us from different standpoint.
Returning we visited several openings, which afforded us a view into a living
stream of lava flowing with the South Lake in an easterly direction with rapidity difficult
to estimate. A river of fluid fire, rushing along with extreme rapidity and with the
characteristics of a mountain stream, losing itself in the lower bed of the crater.
A visit since to the Kilauea Iki, a deep crater surrounded by almost perpendicular
banks covered with green, was quite interesting. The crater was active in 1868 but now
shows an apparently even surface of black lava. It is only two miles distant from the
Volcano House and is easily reached by a ride through a green wilderness of trees,
shrubs, and ferns.
I intend making a visit of 8 days at the Volcano House. The climate is healthy, the
surrounding country, aside from the crater, sufficiently interesting to induce daily
excursions on tolerably good roads, and the house offers that comfort, combined with the
attention of the host Mr. Gilman, that may reasonably be expected anywhere...
Thermometer from 54-58 Fahrenheit. Once it went down to 51.
F.A. Schaefer, 5th visit (1861, 1864, 1866, 1867, 1874), 29 Aug 1874
Latest from Mokuaweoweo. Two wayfaring men just returned from a visit to the
summit of Mauna Loa--for the benefit of science, or those who come after--have to report
the crater of Mokuaweoweo is the same condition topographically as reported by the last
party and illustrated by J. Lydgate (p. 47) [10 June 1874 map] with this correction that
the bank represented in the plot as making nearly direct from the active lake to the middle
camp, really extends along and joins the bank near or just below the Wilkes camp.
The burning lake itself was less active than reported by the last party, still the
action was very satisfactory at both ends of the lake, that nearest the camp the most
active, throwing up jets varying in size and height, occasionally throwing up some
hundred feet or more. The color of the lava appeared to us very peculiar being a bright
vermillion and sometimes blood-red.
For the encouragement of any who may desire to see this big thing in the way of
lava, we would state that for anyone at all used to riding the trip is not so much of an
undertaking as many represent. The trip may be made easily in two days if desired, the
first day riding some five hours and stopping at a goat camp where there is a poor grass
hut for shelter if it rains, if a tent is carried you will go a little further up before camping,
the next day with an early start--5 1/2 o'clock, you reach the crater from 10 to 11 o'clock,
leaving about noon we reach Reeds upper ranch by 5 or 6 o'clock, after riding over such a
mountain of unadulterated lava as one will probably never find elsewhere, the character
of the lava is "pahoehoe"--smooth rock--still its arrangement is anything but smooth as a
white man understands it, you may get a faint idea of how it looks, if you have ever been
to sea in a storm, or when it is agitated as to be called a "chop sea"--imagine a boundless
expanse of this--petrified--and you get the best idea you can without seeing for
yourselves this wonderful sight.
Parties that stay on the top overnight are almost always affected by the air, and are
more or less sick, but our experience proves that one may go in the day time and not feel
any unpleasant sensation, on the contrary it is cool and highly exhilarating.
We were so unfortunate as to get caught in a rain storm both days in the
afternoon, but in one case we were able to dry ourselves at camp the first night, and the
second night we were in civilized quarters at Mr. Reed's upper ranch. We would
recommend the use of mules all the time for the journey. The expense of the trip from the
foot of the mountain--Reed's Ranch--is generally five dollars for each animal used and
two dollars for the guide, taking your own provisions and blankets, plenty of blankets
will be needed, as the nights are cold, and in being transported need a waterproof
covering, each person too needs a rubber suit--i.e. poncho and leggins--or a heavy woolen
poncho will answer, for if one gets wet through they will suffer intensely with cold.
Snow will be found in greater or less quantities on the summit and within 12 or 15
feet of the edge of the crater ice water will always be found in a deep crack, until the
body of rocks between this crack and the crater falls away, as it probably will the first
heavy shake that disturbs it.
Any one travelling to see the sights will never know how much may be lost by not
going up this hill, untill they accomplish it for themselves.
Anyone who takes a delight in becoming familiar with the wonderful workings of
the Divine Architect as exhibited in different phases, from the rude beginnings or
foundation to the finished landscape will never regret the trip--we firmly believe.
To give one some idea of the distance to be travelled, without knowing whether it
has been measured or not, should say it was all of 23 miles from the Reed's Ranch,
divided for convenience in describing--thusly--seven miles from Kapapala to the upper
ranch, to the edge of the woods or camping ground about eight miles, to the top level
about six miles, of which about two have scattered vegetation growing along, the rest of
the way is as barren as can be, dreary, desolate, no living thing animal or vegetable, no
sound disturbs this primeval solitude save the voice of venturesome man, occasionally.
From the top level to the crater I should say it was about two miles, this gives our idea of
distance, the next man can judge for himself or measure it.
R. Whitman, B.F. Dillingham, 3 Sept 1874
Brigham dated this Sept. 9 and ascribed it to Dillingham, but the handwriting is not the
same as Dillingham's on the next page, so more likely Whitman wrote it.
We arrived here last evening about 5:30 after a pleasant ride of 3 hours from Mr.
W.H. Reed's Rancho...Madam Pele was undoubtedly making a special effort to show us
something of her power and grandeur. She was much more active than when we stopped
here a week since. Mauna Loa also showed quite a bright light over its summit indicating
unusual activity in the crater of Mokuaweoweo. This morning at about nine o'clock we
started down into the crater.
Most of the way across the bottom of the crater it was very hot and about half way
to the cone we found the lava flowing upon the surface. Passing up the side of the cone
approaching the south Lake we saw in several openings lava streams rushing out with
great velocity. One place in particular impressed us with a sense of horror of the infernal
region below--the lava here was exposed to view by an opening about eight feet square,
and it seemed to be running down a channel on an angle of about 45 degrees, at the rate
of 30 or 40 miles an hour. Sulphuric vapor was very strong and exceedingly disagreeable,
at times almost suffocating. We reached the South Lake about noon. It seemed to some of
us who had not seen it before, to be in a very active state, but we are told it is only
moderately active. At all events it is a sight never to be forgotten, and to be appreciated it
must be seen. I believe that no description ever has or ever will be written however
comprehensive that can convey any thing, more than the most vague conception of this
wonderful and mysterious creation of the great Creator. We returned to the house about
2:30 p.m. filled with wonder and amazement.
B.F. Dillingham, 4 Sept 1874
At 1 o'clock last night the lava broke through the crust in the eastern edge of the
basin near the trail, and flowed rapidly westward. The liquid lava spread over several
acres of the basin in a few moments, flowing very rapidly. The outbreak was
accompanied by a dull, sullen, roaring sound--apparently far below the surface. In spite
of a heavy fog the fire lighted up the crater and surroundings--every part of this house
was filled with the glare, making it as light as day. By 3 o'clock the lava had cooled and
the flow had ceased.
A steady rain all night--no wind--thermometer 64.
C.E. Stackpole, 20 Sept 1874
Found the crater quite active. Entertainment at the Volcano House now under the
care of Mr. Stackpole very satisfactory.
T. Coan, 21 Oct 1874
On this my second visit to the crater of Kilauea, I am much more gratified and
impressed with the grandeur of the spectacle than I was on the former occasion. At that
time, March 24 '72, there was little evidence of internal activity, the only points of
interest being the cones situated on the margin of the SW lake. Now this lake is in a
perfectly active state exhibiting all the usual volcanic phenomena--and the crater of
Halemaumau also and which I think is the more interesting of the two as the boiling lava
here is erupted close to your feet as you stand on the edge of the crater some 6 or 8 feet
above the lake itself. Another very interesting sight is the lava now flowing from the SW
lake in a NNE direction, at a rate of about 11 miles an hour, a wide, deep, surging molten
stream flowing under and toward the NE lake, the whole of which is in a much hotter
state than in 1872, rendering walking uncomfortable from the heat of the surface. At
night the edges of this lake are brightly illumined giving evidence of the proximity of
fires beneath. The morn of Nov. 9th (the Prince of Wales' birthday whom God preserve)
was one of the most splendid I can remember in any part of the world, and the view of
Mauna Loa's and Mauna Kea's snow-clad summits as seen from this house frames one of
the most splendid sights I have ever seen.
Nov. 10th. Our party are leaving for Hilo this morning...
T. Scobell Clapp, H.M.S. Scout, 8 Nov 1874
I visited the crater some 2 1/2 years ago. At that time the crater was not nearly so
active as at present. Where there were then 7 active cones is at present a crater some 40
feet in depth and 300 yards in diameter containing boiling lava which bubbles up in half a
dozen places to a height of 10 to 20 feet. It was very fine and calm last night so that we
could hear the swash of the lava from here.
C.J. Trower, H.M.S. Scout, 10 Nov 1874
Found the crater in about the same state of activity as on former visits; but the
area of the lakes has increased and changed very much since my last previous visit in
1864. Then there was but one lake, now there are two--both much larger than
Halemaumau formerly was. The plan on the next page will indicate the size as now
estimated, and the extent of the walls surrounding them, which vary from 50 to 125 feet
in height. Halemaumau is located in the southern part and not easily accessible. The new
and larger lake at the right is called "Kilauea" and our party stood within six feet of the
edge of the bank on the windward side, from which position a fine view was obtained of
the whole of this boiling cauldron, and at 100 feet above the liquid mass.
The depression or valley in the center of the crater was formed in April 1868, and
takes forty minutes of good walking to cross it, indicating a distance of about two miles.
The time occupied from the Volcano House to the lake was one hour and 20 minutes-time in returning--two hours.
Henry M. Whitney, ed. Hawaiian Gazette [with the party of Her Royal Highness the
Princess Lydia Dominis], 8 Dec 1874
Illustration: Plan of the old South Lake, 8 Dec 1874, H.M. Whitney; existing molten
lakes "Kilauea" and "Halemaumau" in red, position of 1872 lake "Kilauea" marked,
estimated measurements given. Page 72.
Arrived here at 6 p.m. after a long and tedious ride from Waiohinu. The fire of the
crater was very active indeed, very bright. There was a distinct roar to be heard at night.
Dec. 21. I took a photograph of the crater from the front of this house and was
moderately successful. After we went down the crater. The steam was rising from the
holes in several places. After crossing the pahoehoe we arrived at a gradual rise to the
crater, which was boiling much, and much smoke, a great amount of rumbling and
cracking going on under us with now and then a report at a distance like the report of a
cannon. I lost my hat down the hole, the natives say that Pele came and took it. Certainly
there was little wind. On our return I was surprised to find how greatly the number of
steam jets had increased. There were now at least a dozen to each one we had seen
before. On the way I saw in the distance a puff of steam, then a report was heard, and I
could see rock high in the air, this was evidently an explosion of confined steam. The
pahoehoe was very warm and if you stopped and looked under you could see the whole
on fire. When we sat down on the wall formed by the eruption of 1868, there was a sharp
and sudden crack like the report of a cap, it made a small crack in the lava about 8 yards
from us, and up came the steam and sulphur. At night the crater was roaring and flashing
its light high up.
I examined the sulphur hill near the house. I took the thermometer and put on it,
in 9 seconds the reading was 140 but as this was the extent it (thermometer) would mark,
of course that was of no use--my belief is the heat there cannot be less than 200 F.
Again this hill in my belief is a crust of about 1 ft. thick over a large steam hole,
probably the largest and most important about the crater.
Dec. 22. A very fine morning, very good for photography, so set to work at 8 a.m.
and was most successful, pictures turning out perfect, every picture taken from exactly in
front of the house. At 9:30 a.m. I was surprised to find that there was no steam rising
from the left side just above the pahoehoe (looking from House) tho I had seen it before. I
then determined to watch for it again, it broke out at 4:00 p.m. when rain began. Of
course the rain on warm lava could affect the amount of steam which was very thick.
H. Glanville Barnacle and William Yates, Transit of Venus expedition, Cheshire,
England, 20 Dec 1874
Arrived here yesterday at 5 p.m. from Kau, just escaping a heavy thunder shower.
The two lakes, Kilauea and Halemaumau, are both very active, and the large flow of lava
from Halemaumau into the basin of the crater, which we are told occurred on the 27th
inst. is still aglow with fire, occasionally bursting forth anew on the surface and at the
lower edge. The roar from the lakes was very loud at times during the night. We start for
Hilo this morning at 6 o'clock with fair weather.
F.L. Lyman and W.H. Reed, 29 Dec 1874
Visited the crater with Mr. J.W. Moore and George P. Castle. Got to southwest
side of Halemaumau and stood over the brink of the crater in which the lava stood about
forty feet below, and was boiling violently on the edges only. The smoke was towards
Kilauea and we could not get to see it, but craters marked C and D were not in action.
February 4th went to the craters again via little sulphur crater marked E, looking down
which we saw lava rushing swiftly at a depth of not more than ten feet below where we
stood, and in the direction of the hotel. Proceeding to a point of observation marked X we
had a fair view of all the craters. The small one marked C was playing with most force
spurting its lava in spray ten to twenty feet above its banks. Halemaumau was almost as
lively, and the main crater Kilauea was boiling at the base of its cliffs on all sides with
vigor. It was about eleven o'clock when we arrived at X. The little crater D was then
without signs of fire. After we had been standing about half an hour, this little basin
showed fire, heaving and then bursting its scum of gray lava and boiling fiercely. About
the same time the lava in the great crater Kilauea was rising fast. Presently it gushed up
and with a surge toward the northeast side, appeared to be rushing toward a vent and in a
few minutes it subsided to its first level, and all the craters seemed in about an equal state
of activity. None of them were near full as we are told they sometimes are. The lava in
Halemaumau was about twenty feet below the lava floor right about it; crater C was
about the same; D not more than ten to twelve feet, and Kilauea perhaps from thirty to
forty or fifty feet. As soon as the great gush from Kilauea found vent we anticipated a
good flow of lava on the great lava sink between these craters and the hotel. We returned
to dinner at two o'clock via the cave of stalactites on the northeast terrace of the great
sink. When we came out from dinner the anticipated lava flow had already submerged an
acre of two of the sink on the route of our morning walk and was creeping over the great
sink in four different places. Mr. Moore and myself with Ben the cook for guide started at
3:30 o'clock to the spot where the nearest lava was flowing. We found it moving with
leisurely crawl that enabled us to get it out and put coins and other things in it to bring
away for souvenirs. We got back to the hotel about dark delighted with our day's
experiences.
Feb. 5. Mr. Moore and myself have had a delightful ride around the southerly side
of the great amphitheater enclosing the crater, ostensibly to get Pele hair, at a point about
5 miles from the hotel. The object in view seemed contemptible compared with the
grandeur of the view en route--embracing in the glance of the eye the whole vast theatre
of volcano on the left, Mauna Loa on the right, with a breadth of beauty it has nowhere
else exhibited, and the snow-capped Mauna Kea to be seen over the right shoulder as you
ride. The road is a fine one for a ride. After the dreary monotony of the ride from Hilo to
this house and the strange utter absence of all evidence of there being either mountain or
volcano within a hundred miles of the rider until one is fairly at the hotel startled by the
tremendous black gulf that lies before him. After such an experience in the approach, this
ride around to the right makes amends at every point for the majesty that is so wanting in
coming in from Hilo. No one who comes here should miss this ride. Nor should travellers
imagine that any one or two days will enable them to see what may be seen some days
and not others. The writer could not have believed without seeing it, how the show varies
from day to day and often from hour to hour, nor how strangely facile it is to be at the
verge of these floods of fire and to play with them. I cannot close without expressing the
great pleasure we have experienced in finding this
most quaint tidy fire-lighted inn...
Frank J. Scott, 2 Feb 1875
Illustration: Shaded relief map of Kilauea and Halemaumau, 2 Feb 1875, Frank J. Scott.
Page 77.
There is no doubt about it--volcanoes are an institution. Every country should
possess one. With profound melancholy I remember that my native land has none, at least
in active state, and if there is anything which could induce me to take up a residence on
the Hawaiian Islands it is the consideration that I should have frequent opportunities of
visiting the crater of Kilauea, voyaging upon the steamer of the same name.
Speaking of lava reminds me that there is a small sample between here and Hilo
but it is antiquated--nothing of more than 12 hours existence has any interest for our
party, while a walk of a few miles over the crackling crust of the latter constitutes a
charming promenade. It does not burn you much, and being fully 5 or 6 inches thick it
does not bend much under your weight. All sense of fatigue is dissipated by the novelty
of peering through numberless fissures into the fiery furnace beneath this egg-shell cover,
and I can imagine nothing more stimulating to dormant nerves than the thought that any
moment a crash may precipitate one into the unquenchable gulf, or a gush of molten lava
overflow all standing room. This would inevitably destroy one's shoes and put an end to
the excursion...
no signature, 13 Feb 1875
Arrived at Volcano House Feb. 19 1875. Remained until morning of 22d inst.
Went into the crater on the 20th and saw "Halemaumau," "Kilauea," and several small
holes in which the lava was boiling, also the sulphur banks. The lava in Halemaumau is
20 feet below the bank and is boiling at the same points designated in the diagram on
page 77 [2 Feb 1875 drawing, Frank J. Scott] of this record. In Kilauea it it less active. A
very fine view of these volcanic fires can be had by riding to a point on the rim of the
great crater almost directly opposite the hotel. You ride down to the first terrace and then
walk down to the second. You are then about half a mile from "Kilauea" and can get a
good view of that and the other sights. The pleasure to be derived from this spectacle will
well repay you for the slight fatigue caused by the trip. Stay here at least two days and
see all there is to be seen, don't limit yourself to the orthodox time of one day to "do"
Kilauea and its surroundings.
Wm. D. Garwood, 22 Feb 1875
Arrived on the afternoon of the 24th from Hilo in company with Willie Conway
who served as interpreter and guide through Puna. Travellers would do well either to
come or go through Puna as there is much for the attentive observer to see. Spent five
hours in the crater yesterday and went down again at night. The display in all four of the
lakes was very fine through the day--boiling, tossing, upheavings, surgings, explosions,
tumults, etc. Halemaumau was full and flowing to the high wall on the west. At night the
display was terrific as it showed to better effect in the darkness. In going down at night
look out for chasms.
Today has been almost continuously rainy and quite cool. This is my second visit
and has been quite as interesting if not more so than the first when the weather was fine
all the time. The crater bears a cultivated acquaintance.
Joseph Moore, 26 Feb 1875
Through the kindness of our host we obtained a guide and made the descent of the
crater and visited Halemaumau and Kilauea which were both very active. In going to the
lakes were obliged to cross a lava flow of only about 8 hours previous and were obliged
to be constantly moving our feet to keep our shoes from burning. The mass of lava had
only cooled to the thickness of a foot or 18 inches and through innumerable crevices
could see the liquid lava.
The impression made upon one as he stands at the brink of one of these chasms
and views the molten lava struggling, surging, boiling, now fiercely beating against the
walls of the chasm as if struggling for freedom, now receding to again renew the contest
with renewed fury, is beyond the power of words to describe, it must be seen to be
appreciated. After watching the freaks of Madame Pele for about an hour and a half we
retraced our steps and after again crossing the very recent flow commenced the ascent of
the pali. After thirty minutes of pulling and puffing we arrived at the hotel considerably
exhausted having been 5 hours in the crater.
We were then taken by our gentlemenly host to partake of a steam bath and visit
the sulphur banks. There are some magnificent specimens of crystallized sulphur and
alum but generally all so extremely delicate that it is impossible to transport them any
distance as upon handling them reduces them to a very fine powder. Finally, having
visited the principal places of interest of which there are many, we returned to the hotel
hightly delighted with our visit. And greatly obliged to our host, who through his
kindness and attention to us made our visit not only interesting but instructive. Weather
this morning clear, ther. 63 degerees. Now 5:30 p.m. Foggy and cold, ther 55 degrees.
James Noble, 28 March 1875
There is a sketch of three young men, May 24, 1875. There is a note dated Jan. 12, 1914
below the sketch, signed C.B. Tilcoove, Rear Admiral U.S.N. The note reads:
When the handsome youths above portrayed were here, there was no speculation
even, as to telephone, electric light, automobile and many other things that are taken as
matters of course now. The crater was hundreds of feet deeper than now, and instead of
one pit the active part of the crater was divided into three boiling lakes named
Halemaumau, Kilauea, and Madam Pele. The floor of the crater looked as if crossed by
many streams of fire at night.
...We stood upon the brink of the crater and gazed awe-stricken and silent into the
fiery depths below, and thought of our own insignificance. The grandest of thoughts
filled our minds. We thought of our future--of dinner. Suddenly a fiery stream of lava
was shot into the air, forcibly recalling to our memories our youthful days when with a
little powder that we had innocently stolen, we made "spit-devils" and joyfully watched
them hiss and burn and fade away. Such are the grandeurs of Kilauea....
Ed. A. Abele, U.S.N., U.S. Flagship "Pensacola" 24 May 1875
Arrived at the Volcano House. The crater was not on as grand a scale as I was led
to believe by the tales of previous travelers, but still there is sufficient to show vast
commotion taking place in the interior of the earth. The stream of lava flowing from
Halemaumau is very interesting and the fall is grand and awe-inspiring.
"Boil and bubble toil and trouble
Like a hell-broth boil and bubble."
Henry McCallum, Virginia City, Nevada, 17 June 1875
Armed with our Pele stocks and in care of a trusty guide we started on foot for the
crater. What a glorious sight burst in on our view. Awful precipices, fertile valleys,
stupendous volcanic organization demanding one of the descriptions of the Hedonic
regions. Our pathway down the hillside was both rugged and primitive, even to danger at
least so we thought as we clung warily to the trembling hand rail at our side; having
safely reached the lower pathway we press onward eagerly to the Rubicon, if not thro fen
and fallow at least through rocky ferny glen till we arrive opposite the celebrated pali
named Pali o Keawe where we satisfactorily and incontestably proved that we had no
serious tubercular disease in our vocal organization by practising the strength of our
lungs in the vocal Echo line of business. We then descend a rather sharp declivity onto an
old bed of lava-like rock, passing on our right a steam cone of some 12 feet high and
about 6 in circumference, hollow of course, a very interesting object. As we wending our
way warily watching in which way the sulphur fumes are being blown we come across a
huge bed of lava (say 200 acres) which was thrown up last evening from whence the
steam was rising in thick clouds. After some minutes of marching over hard brittle
cracking vesicular lava we come to the first sight of these almost infernal regions, a small
cone with an orifice of some 2 1/2 feet in diameter, looking into which we perceive to our
surprise an immense stream of lava issuing from a cavity not 10 inches from the surface
of the bed whereon we were standing 2 minutes ago, and precipitated into the
unfathomable abyss below. We next proceed to inspect Halemaumau, the oldest of the
fiery furnaces. What a most stupendous spectacle is here revealed to our sight. Words of
mine cannot paint even the outline of this wonderful sight and this confession of my own
inability at description applies to the other two fiery furnaces Kilauea and Kilauea Keiki.
We could but gaze in solemn awe at this manifestation of the wondrous power of that
Nature who is subservient to the Infinite Creator of all things. Standing as we were on the
ledge of the crater looking down into the seething boiling cauldron below we were more
like what one would suppose would be a fit representation of mortal man looking upon
the portals of the everlasting habitations of the damned. One more paragraph before I
close. We adjourned to view the other cones before our return and found them similar in
formation to the one described above; and on our journey homeward we actually found
that we were walking on cakes of lava not more than 6 inches thick and underneath were
layers of red hot cinders not yet cooled from the last overflow and in other places not
more than 2 feet from the surface we saw lava in a molten state. Lastly I think I express
the feeling of most of the visitors here in their heart of hearts that when I at last reached
the pathway leading to our hotel I felt thankful enough that I was safe out of it....
Rev. W. Calder, 9 July 1875
...Went to the volcanoes, they were all active and seemed to be showing what they
could do expressly for our benefit....
F. Scott Peebles, 14 July 1875
Arrived at Volcano House about 1 p.m. the 12th and made two trips to the lakes.
They were very active. Before returning saw Kilauea Keiki rise and fall and make a great
and beautiful display. We feel well paid for our journey and effort...
Lucretia F. Ingraham, 15 July 1875
...Took a horse back ride to see the volcano. We rode about three miles and there
had a splendid view of the working of these great fiery wonders that are acknowledged
all over. They ___ to be the grandest sights of the kind...They were not as active as when
I was here on the 14th instant but it was a sublime sight to see the jets of fire thrown up
like showers of sparks...
10:30 a.m. back from a horse back ___ where the landlord took me to see an
extinct crater about two miles distant. 4000 feet across the top, 500 or 600 feet deep and
2000 feet at the base. Said crater having ceased operation in the year A.D. 1868 the time
when earthquakes were predominant. I have no time to describe this crater....
F. Scott Peebles, 27 July 1875
Two severe earthquake shocks were felt here today: one at 4:30 p.m. and one at
6:45 p.m. Motion north to south.
Aug. 11, 1875. At daylight this morning a dense cloud of smoke was seen arising
from the crater on the summit of Mauna Loa. From June 1874 till now no fire has been
visible. This new outbreak appears to be farther towards the north end of the crater than
the previous one. Tonight the smoke seems to have increased in volume giving evidence
of a larger mass of fire below.
C.E. Gilman, 7 Aug 1875
A few of our party visited the crater this evening and found both Kilauea and
Halemaumau more than usually active. We left Volcano House at 5 P.M., thus arriving at
the scene of action a few minutes before sunset. By this means we got a good idea of the
whole volcano by daylight and a grand view of the furnaces by night. Kilauea had five
jets playing, Halemaumau having the same number but on a much finer scale. Even as we
sat there gazing down, Halemaumau rose in a few minutes to within a few feet of the top
of its banks, and I have no doubt that an overflow took place at some point that was
hidden from us. The lake then subsided to its former level. Between these two craters,
high up on the dividing bank of hard lava, a small cone was blowing every two or three
minutes, the jets reaching an altitude of twenty or forty feet.--Spectroscopic observations
of the furnaces with a small direct vision spectroscope gave a continuous spectrum, the
red showing brightest, an occasional flare in the green. Magnetic observations were made
with the dip needle in front of hotel, then the dip circle was carried down to the first
plateau and a difference of two degrees in reading was found, thus indicating the
powerful influence of the iron in the crater. Photographs were taken of the whole crater,
of the craters of Kilauea and Halemaumau, and of the lava cascades.--Mauna Loa is quiet
now.
Challenger Expedition, 15 Aug 1875
Arrived at the Volcano House Aug. 20 at 3 p.m. Start for lava lake at 4 p.m.,
arrived there 5:15. Kilauea and Halemaumau very little active but the new crater, Kilauea
Keki, rose short time after my arrival and gave me a grandiose size. Remained there till
dark and watched very eagerly every motion, noticed that the Kilauea Keki increase her
flood and ran rapidly down to the old lake of the Kilauea, both mingled together, about a
dozent bubles appeared and the whole was an ocean of fire, with hundreds of little
craters. Visited afterward the different funnels of sulphur and steam. Had a very long
walk home to the vulcano house, arrived there 9:15 p.m., fine supper.
Aug. 21. Had a beautiful sleep, but as it was very cold this morning we had a little
fire in the parlor, what a difference to Honolulu. Visited today the sulphur baths and
openings, and started again for the field of action at 5 p.m. Would advise every ladie and
gentleman to visit the craters at night or evening after dark, at daylight no one would get
the real impression of an active vulcano as it is at night time. The guide is Kapuniai, very
good and true, as a patience to return at night.
Heinrich Berger, commanded as Bandmaster for the royal Hawaiian Troops, 21 Aug
1875
A faint light was seen from here at 9:15 on Mauna Loa.
J.N. Gilman, 21 Aug 1875
Kilauea keki very active, throw from 50 to 100 feet high, grandious side.
Halemaumau also active but not so high as the keki.
H. Berger, 21 Aug, 10 p.m.
We arrived here at 6 p.m. after a rough, wild, and rainy ride and were glad enough
to sit down beside a comfortable fire. At night the volcano was more active than in a long
time before, and the wonderful natural furnaces cast a lurid glare upon the sky which was
truly grand, and wonderful to behold. Today we went down to the crater and returned in 3
1/2 hours. The lava was boiling in the active portions of the crater, and presented a
marvelous sight. We stood beside several glowing, burning, and seething furnaces and
were almost suffocated and blinded by sulphuric fumes. In some places where the lava
had but partly cooled, we could scarcely stand upon it for the heat. The trip is dangerous
at best.
T.M. Dawson, 2 Sept 1875
I arrived here from Hilo yesterday, made the trip in 7 hours and 30 minutes
including all the detentions on the road, which amounted to one hour and twenty minutes.
The volcano is indeed a truly magnificent sight to behold, must really be seen before a
favourable idea can be formed of this gigantic fiery furnace. So many remarks have been
made upon this world-renowned object of curiosity that it would be useless for me to
enter into the particulars of my visit. But as I have visited this remote part of the world to
behold the Kilauea Volcano, I felt that on leaving the spot where it is situated that I
should like my name to appear among the poll of signatures so that in years to come it
would be a sort of remembrance to other visitors perhaps my own children when I am
laying low in my long last place.
H.C. Roberts, Sydney, N.S.W., 3 Sept 1875
I descended into the main crater in company with Mr. Schaefer and Mr. Gilman of
the Volcano House, and on arrival at the brink of the Kilauea lake I was disappointed in
not finding any show of activity. A small jet of lava apparently not larger than a wheat
sheaf, to which some lava jets are compared, was all the outer evidence of activity near
the edge of the black surface of cooled lava, at a depth of about a hundred and twenty feet
from where we stood. However, after a short stay, several jets broke forth, and before we
left Kilauea showed considerable signs of activity. I descended again at 10 p.m. on the
9th September, when I observed a wonderful increase of activity. The Kilauea lake had
risen to within thirty feet of the top of its highest bluff, or about ninety feet, whilst the
Halemaumau lake and the Kilauea iki pit were full and boiling over, and pouring forth
streams of lava, some flowing into Kilauea lake and others flowing in a southeast
direction towards the basin of the main crater. I observed a new boiling pool about three
hundred yards southeast of Halemaumau and outside of the high embankment that
incloses the two principal lakes. After my return to the Volcano House, at a later hour
after night had set in, I rode with Mr. Schaefer to a point in the west bank of the great
crater, and we observed the two lakes in a high state of activity and illuminating the sky
above in a most brilliant manner. During the night we could observe from our beds the
jets of lava leaping above the embankments of Kilauea and Halemaumau, so that the lava
had risen over a hundred feet in these lakes since our first observation on the 7th.
Walter M. Gibson, 7 Sept 1875
Brigham notes: "By Kilauea iki Mr. Gibson means the pool within the Halemaumau area
called, unfortunately, Kilauea."
On the 23rd of Nov. at 11:15 a.m. there was quite a hard earthquake shock felt in
Kau, Kona, and Hilo, and another of two shocks, nearly as hard, at 7 p.m. The one in the
A.M. threw down several fathoms of good stone wall on Mr. Reed's ranch at Kapapala,
and also stopped our horses on the road, for the moment, by the motion of the earth.
F.L. Lyman, 22 Nov and 3 Dec, 1875
This being my first visit to Kilauea since 1864, I find the appearance of the crater
entirely changed. Weather pleasant. Rain during the night, with some thunder and
lightning. Lakes in considerable activity. Reached this place last evening, after a ride of 7
1/2 hours from Hilo, in company with W.H. Reed Esq. Leave this morning for Mr. Reed's
Ranch at Kapapala.
A.O. Forbes, 13 Nov 1875
Back again, after a week spent most enjoyably in visiting Mr. Reed's Ranch,
Waiohinu, Kahuku (Jones and Richardson's Ranch), and Keauhou, reaching here from
the latter place at 12 1/2 m. today. Rainy afternoon with thunder and lightning on Mauna
Loa. Crater in its usual state. Have enjoyed the kind hospitalities of friends at every stage
of the way, and am comfortably ensconed under the shelter of the Kilauea Hotel, whose
worthy manager is so well known to all who have travelled hitherward for years past, and
deserves all the encomiums bestowed upon him in the preceding pages. Leave at 7
o'clock tomorrow morning for Hilo.
A.O. Forbes, Hilo, Hawaii, 23 Nov 1875
Arrived here Jan 1st 1876 at 3 p.m. Our Aneroid read at Kalapana this morning
30.05 (say over 850 ft.) at a height about 50 feet above the sea level, making the reading
with this correction 900. It reads now 26--or by the vernier graduated for feet of elevation
4800. Making the apparent elevation of this point as given by this instrument 3900.
At 4:45 we were saluted with a short, sharp shock of earthquake, which Mr.
Gilman says is unusual.
Still another shock at 9:45 p.m.
Depression below Volcano House of lava of '65 at point where path runs into it-370 feet
Recent flow--440 feet
Brink of Kilauea--380 feet
Foot of mound on which Kilauea is--490 feet
The above as given by the barometer and are recorded for what they are worth.
A. McF. Davis, 1 Jan 1876
Left Hilo at 9:30 a.m., arrived at Volcano House at 4:30 p.m. after a wet but not
unpleasant ride. This morning at 9:20 started for the crater. Halfway across the first lava
bed experienced a slight shock of earthquake (according to the guide). This was in close
proximity to a lava flow 7 days old on which the falling rain hissed loudly. The Lake of
Kilauea was in moderate eruption. Some 6 or 7 fountains of molten fire were playing
very briskly--with a rapid surface motion of the scum towards that side of the lake upon
which the fountains were playing. The rim of fire was very clearly marked upon the
opposite side of the lake to which the fountains were playing. "Halemaumau" was in
fierce activity--the roar of the three monster fountains at the side and the center fountain
followed us upon our return as far as the end of the lava bed. The weather was cloudy and
rainy but not unpleasant. In the writer's opinion Niagara and Mauna Loa are the two
chiefest objects in creation, either in the range of nature or art.
I have travelled 6000 miles out of my way in order to see this great sight and can
cheerfully testify to the reverse of the French proverb and say that the game is worth the
candle--when the latter is in the grasp of Mde. Pele. May her shadow never grow less!
Chas. Lancaster, Liverpool, England, 8 Jan 1876
We arrived here yesterday at 2:10 o'clock from Kona, a ride of 100 miles. I had
been taught to believe since my earliest recollections that the road to the lake of fire and
brimstone was broad and smooth, easy to travel, with plenty of company. We therefore
started with bright anticipations of a very pleasant trip, whatever met us on our arrival,
but alas, they were not verified in our case, our road was rough, rocky, and narrow, and
our party appeared to be the only one on the road at the time. Even the elements assisted
in making our trip unpleasant, it rained and the wind blew and on the whole we were very
thankful when we arrived here at the house and sat down to a comfortable fire. We
visited the sulphur bank and I was so delighted with it that I thought the sight of it alone
would well repay me for making the trip. We went down into the crater today, had a good
view of two lakes of molten fire, besides several hot places, we got some nice specimens,
and returned in the rain, got here very tired, wet, cold, and hungry but feeling well repaid
for the trip, and prepared to say we had seen the most wonderful fire in the world.
Adela Day, Daisy Day, 12 Jan 1876
Last night the Lake Kilauea overflowed a broad stream of lava flowing down into
the centre of the crater for some four hours. This morning the summits of Mauna Loa and
Mauna Kea are covered with snow to an unusual extent. Weather clear and very cold.
C.E. Gilman, 14 Jan 1876
At 7:45 this evening a very bright light was visible on the summit of Mauna Loa,
the first seen since Aug. 11th 1875. It appears to be farther south than the August
outbreak. Kilauea very active.
C.E. Gilman, 13 Feb 1876
We arrived Feb. 19th and remained until 21st. Both Kilauea and Halemaumau
very active, the lava in the former on the night of the 19th was nearly to a level with the
rim of the crater, but the next day had sunk about 30 feet. There were two considerable
lava flows in the lower part of the crater.
C.W.W. Ingram, 21 Feb 1876
Kilauea Lake rather low last night at 7 o'clock. Five fountains playing. Went
down again today and walked over where last night had been running lava which was yet
red hot to within two feet.
Michael Hare, 22 Feb 1876
About a mile and a half from the hotel on our way to Kilauea we came to an
opening in the lava about six feet wide. Through this opening, in spite of the fierce heat
arising from it, we saw a full, rushing torrent of liquid lava, of the brightest flame color,
apparently making its way immediately beneath our feet. Both lakes were in fine activity
today throwing jets of intense orange-red color from both lateral and medial fountains.
George L. Chaney, 22 Feb 1876
Arrived here from Hilo 6:30 p.m. in company with William Shipman and guide
(Ai Hapai) after a rough and tiresome ride raining most of the way. Friday 8:30 a.m. we
visited the crater but found it inactive sorry to say. Yet from the little seen am of the
belief that when active was the greatest wonder of the age. Have procured some
interesting specimens of lava to take to my California friends. Will return by short route
to Hilo tomorrow Saturday March 25/76.
Ed. S. Baker, San Francisco, 23 March 1876
Arrived this evening from Kona by way of Waiohinu. Crater inactive.
M.M. Howland, 24 March 1876
...We descent the Kilauea and found very active with great falls of molten lava
falling from a cliff about 75 feet, plunging with thundering roar to the fire waves below.
This was on the south side of the "lake of fire and brimstone." Also there was a river of
the same liquid fire and brimstone rushing out from beneath the south cliff, in a very
ferocious manner.
In the afternoon we went again to see the "bottomless pit" and waited until 9:15
p.m. In the meantime the falls and river ceased but the "everlasting burnings" was boiling
terrible.
Griffith Davies, 20 April 1876
Visited Kilauea this evening, was very active, threw large quantities of lava upon
the bank where we were standing, burned our fingers while putting coin in the hot lava.
H.H. Williams, 20 April 1876
Leaving Volcano House for Reed's Ranch, and Mauna Loa the summit crater at
10 a.m.
G.D. and H.H.W., 21 April 1876
Find that Halemaumau has built up about two hundred feet in about one year, and
that the lava from the south lake has almost filled up the great central basin. Fires very
active; a stream running down the Halemaumau slope the greater part of the night.
D.H. Hitchcock, 2 May 1876
Visited the South lake approaching it on the north side of the lake; recent lava
flows and a tendency to constant changes on the east side rendering the old path from the
east unsafe. The lake is quite active and gradually filling up; the surface of the lake has an
apparent current or motion in a southwest direction. Weather fine with occasional
showers.
J.S. Emerson, 8 June 1876
Left Hilo Wednesday 21st at 8 a.m., arrived here at 5 p.m. Through the fog in the
evening we saw the lava flowing from South Lake. This morning at eight o'clock we
made our descent into the crater. At 9:30 we were on the edge of the cone looking into
the north lake. There seemed to be two boiling cauldrons from which the lava was rolling
in great masses of scum, soon to make one complete surging sea. At different points in
the lake this liquid fire would dash up in jets, landing on the adjacent rocks in the lake or
lodging on the rim of the cone. Ten o'clock found us in front of the lava flow, watching
its slow progress towards us. A majestic sight indeed and one which fascinated us. We
were loath to leave it. 11:30 o'clock found us at the sulphur bank on the opposite side of
the crater. On our way there we passed the cones formed by the great earthquake of 1868,
and looked down immense fissures on what seemed to be the ruins of past structures. Our
homeward walk was a weary one...
Myra M. Trowbridge, San Francisco; Helen Thurston, Makawao; Herbert C. Austin,
Hilo, 22 June 1876
Arrived June 30, left July 2. Enjoyed the grandness of the volcano. Mrs. Hunt
rather feeble. Volcano active. Visited the cave.
Elizabeth J. Watson, California, and party, 2 July 1876
Reached Kilauea at 3 p.m. on the 8th after a 3 days ride through the Puna district.
Sky clear, wind strong and sun hot. On the east side of the "Lake of fire" the lava was
well up its banks, sending up several jets of flame. Lava current sluggish and moving
apparently at the rate of 11 miles per hour. Not less than 4 volcanic centres were in
vigorous operation--one of them sending huge masses of lava well down the western
bank. An awful spectacle!...
T.K. Noble, San Francisco, 9 July 1876
Went down to see Vulcan's foundry. Found Madam Pele busy cooking her soup,
hope she will digest it alone. True: it is a diabolical sight and must be a copy of hell.
Particulars see Miss Bird, as she knows more about it.
H. Schmidt, 16 July 1876
At about 9:30 p.m. Madame Pele began to give us an extra illumination
overflowing largely towards the east and also towards the west, continuing until about 12
p.m. when we returned to our comfortable quarters. This morning the 28th began rather
moist though now the weather is clearing up and gives a fair chance to a party just going
to the crater to see it in all its grandeur though evening is the best time to visit the crater.
Am off now to Puna.
Joseph Lyman, Honolulu, 27 July 1876
Left Hilo for the Volcano at a quarter past 8 on Thursday morning 24th August.
Arrived at Halfway House at 1 o'clock and had a comfortable lunch. After resting
ourselves and horses for about 1 1/2 hours we proceeded on our journey and reached
Volcano House at 5:30. Had sulphur bath and felt much refreshed. The volcano was very
active during the night there being a large overflow from the large Lake Kilauea and also
a large flow from a small cone on the left of the 2 lakes. Today Friday we all set out at 8
o'clock for the crater. When we arrived at the lakes we found them full to overflowing.
The lava was in a state of perpetual motion, large waves of fire continually jumping into
the air to the height of at least 20 feet. When we had taken in all the grandeur of the
spectacle we visited the cone at the foot of the active part of the crater and were very
much pleased. In the afternoon we walked about 3 miles to the cliffs on the ____
overlooking the centre of the crater and here we saw a grand spectacle. There was a very
large flow from a small cone on the left of the lakes extending for over half a mile. The
sun had now set and it soon became quite dark. On the right of the lakes there was a very
large flow of lava covering a space of over 50 acres and at the same time the lakes were
one mass of red molten waves leaping to a great height and threatening every moment to
overflow. The grandeur of the scene was greatly enhanced by a beautiful lunar rainbow
spanning the northern part of the heavens. At 10 o'clock looking from the Volcano House
the scene was grander than ever--dense masses of red clouds being suspended as it were
over the lakes, and on the left side and running towards the direction of the house was an
immense stream of lava fully one mile in length. The lakes at the same time were more
agitated than ever. We must mention that our host Mr. Kane showed us every possible
attention and did everything in his power to render our stay agreeable and to make us
comfortable. Our guide too Charley Brewster was also most attentive and very obliging.
Edward H. Butler, Hobart Town, Tasmania, 25 Aug 1876
Arrived here at 10:15 a.m. Oct 12 1876. My first visits after a residence of 25
years in the Islands. Visited Madame Pele at 1 p.m. and returned at 4 o'clock very tired
but were repaid for the trouble as the volcano is very active at present. Had a good tea
and returned early, much satisfied with the Volcano House and the manager.
Archibald Scott Cleghorn, with G.M. Damon, 12 Oct 1876
Arrived at Kilauea the same as anybody by coming here. The crater quite active,
had a fine view. The first time I was ever here on Hawaii, have lived on the Islands 23
years.
J.C. Bailey, Wailuku, 24 Oct 1876
At 2 a.m. Nov 22 1876 the old South Lake overrun its banks at the point marked
(1) and the stream spread over the depressed section of the crater about as indicated by
the red portion.
H.M. Whitney, 22 Nov 1876
Illustration: Drawing of lava flow, 22 Nov 1876, H.M. Whitney; including red pencil to
show where lava overran the banks of South Lake. Page 136.
Arrived here at the Volcano House November 30th. Visited Madame Pele and her
wonders at 2 p.m. We arrived here again just about twilight and enjoyed a good night's
repose...
The same company above: (different handwriting) I must say that it is a very
tedious walk coming up the hill after we had travelled a long ways to the volcano. By the
time we reached the top it was covered with fog. When we got into the house we all sat
round the fire and before we went to bed we had a nice look at the volcano.
Lillee Richards, Kauai, and party, 30 Nov 1876
Reading of Aneroid Bar. 2 inch one by Elliott Baro.
Place
Hilo Hotel
Halfway House
Volcano Hotel
Times
7 a.m.
10 a.m.
3 p.m.
Bar.
29.88
28.70
Dec. 5th
25.65
Volcano Hotel
8 a.m.
Foot of staircase
8:15 a.m
Ridge above lava plain
8:24
Path joins lava
8:27
Highest reading in lava
plains
25.65
25.16
26.0
26.17
26.25
Dec. 6th descent
into
Foot of Kilauea cone 9:04
Brink of Kilauea crater
26.15
9:20
Return on W. side of
central cone
10:00
Path joins lava
10:39
Ridge above lava plain
10:46
Foot of staircase
10:59
Volcano Hotel
11:11 a.m..
Volcano Hotel
1:30 p.m.
Summit of W. Cliff
2:00 p.m.
On top of W under cliff at
edge of lava plain under
the lava plain &
visit
26.03
to the cone of
Kilauea
26.17
26.11
25.95
25.84
25.60
25.60
Dec. 6th visit to the
25.44
W. Cliff
Makes W. cliff 149
____on the top cliff
Summit of W. Cliff
Volcano Hotel
feet above hotel &
675
25.42
3:20
3:55 p.m.
25.61
feet above bottom
of
depression
The above readings of an aneroid and times are given in case they should be useful. I
estimate that Volcano House to be about 4000 feet above the sea and the lowest
depression of the lava plain outside the active crater 526 feet below Volcano House.
Height of central cone above this lowest pt. 162 feet. Our party differed in their estimate
of the depth of Kilauea ranging from 300 to 120 feet. About 180 or 200 seems probable.
Dec. 6th. A fine day, lava boiling up in crater and flowing rapidly to the SW. One cone in
Halemaumau ejecting molten lava high enough to be seen from Hotel. Some lava flowing
from a vent on the S.E. side of central cone and over lava plain. No snow visible either on
"Loa" or "Keah."
S. Lossy, Commd. H.M.S. Fantomer, 6 Dec 1876
...Arrived at Volcano House 11:30 a.m. after a very hot ride. 3:14 p.m. started for
crater arriving to the crater about 4:30 p.m. We stopped there until 7:00 p.m. and
cheerfully witnessed the actions of the crater by night as well as by day.
J. Maunder and party from HMS Fantomer, 7 Dec 1876
Having made two previous visits, one in 1843, and the other in 1845, I will
mention the material differences between now and then. At my two previous visits the
entire bottom of the crater was depressed from eight hundred to a thousand feet below the
tops of the cliffs surrounding it, whilst now the entire bottom has risen to within four
hundred or six hundred feet of the top of the cliffs. At my previous visits the southwest or
principal lake of liquid lava was only from ten to fifteen feet below the surface of the
surrounding plain of hard lava forming the bottom of the crater, whilst now I find a cone
about one hundred and eighty feet high with the lake of lava in centre of cone and
depressed about two hundred feet below the top of said cone. Again, on my previous
visits there was no flowing lava in sight except in the lake, which, however, was boiling
actively all over its surface; and now lava is flowing over the surface of the hard lava in
many places. On my previous visits only one lake existed, now I find a depression of
about two hundred feet where another has since existed though now extinct. I find also
that a large portion of the north cliff has fallen in since former visits. My impression is
that taken altogether, the sight is not so grand now as at my former visits, because then
the entire bottom of the crater was much deeper than now, and the lake more brilliant in
its action, and being nearer the surface was in full view from the point where the hotel
now stands, so that our party were all able to read a newspaper by the light from the lake.
William P. Toler, 1 Jan 1877
...Arrived here at 7 p.m. No rain. The volcano action beautiful and interesting
scene. Bound to Kapapala.
Geo. W. Willfong, 16 Feb 1877
On our way back from Kapapala arrived here about half past one p.m. Mist of
rain. Went down for lava samples. South Lake active. Returned to this house at 6 p.m. all
wet...
Geo. Willfong and party, 1 March 1877
...Arrived at Volcano House at 1 p.m. Went into the Kilauea Crater at 1:30.
Raining most of the morning. South Lake interesting scene; lacks nothing but a Devil to
make the thing complete. Think one might be imported from the Pacific Coast at a trifling
expense. Two streams of lava flowing. Arrived back at the house about 5 p.m. thoroughly
drenched with the rain, and was received and treated by the host and hostess with that
true spirit of hospitality which is common to the residents of these beautiful isles of the
sea, and which none but a stranger in a strange land--as I am--can fully appreciate. Leave
for Hilo this morning, taking with me a number of articles of Pele's workmanship, and a
renewed sense of gratitude to the people of the Hawaiian Islands in general, and to Mr. &
Mrs. Kain in particular.
Aaron Frost, Georgetown, Colorado, 3 March 1877
The undersigned arrived at the Volcano House May 4 at 5:30 p.m. 10 hours from
Hilo. Found the volcano more active than it has been before since 1868. Experienced 13
shocks of earthquake during the evening.
Next morning we descended into the crater, skirted the edge of the late flow of
lava, visited the South Lake then crossed back to the house. Saw plenty of subterranean
fire and found some red hot flowing lava, pulled out some as mementoes of the trip,
reached the house after a lively four hours tramp ...
Party from bark "D.C. Murray"--Belle Fuller and James St. Clair of San Francisco; Gus
W. Lake, Idaho; etc., 5 May 1877
No fire in Halemaumau my usual luck.
S.W. Wilcox, Kauai, 2nd visit, 5 May 1877
Mr. S.W. Wilcox and I arrived yesterday from Reed's Ranch, Kapapala, Kau,
Hawaii, Hawaiian Islands, at four minutes and sixteen seconds to two o'clock p.m. The
road was stony and uphill--a railroad from Reed's Ranch would be a great
accommodation to travellers besides materially adding to the business of the Volcano
House. On second thought, we find that we have made a mistake about the time of our
arrival--it was three minutes and fifty-nine seconds before two o'clock. We were hungry
when we arrived, but ceased being hungry shortly after.
On the day and evening before we came there was a vigorous outbreak on the
southeast side of the main crater, a fissure extending from the crater floor through the
bank and into the woods beyond. the lava spouted up from this crack to the height of
from fifty to one hundred and fifty feet. For adjectives suitable to the sublimity of the
scene, see Worcester's Dictionary--anything the intelligent reader may select cannot be
too forcible. This action, which drained Halemaumau as dry as an ash heap, ceased just
before our arrival. Mr. Wilcox says that it is just his luck. As it is not just my usual luck I
am disappointed. We gazed into the empty goblet-shaped cavity called Halemaumau,
with a feeling wherein terror was mixed with our disappointment. The ledge on which we
stood was separated from the main rock by a deep crack, so that it appeared to be tilted
over the hole and already to tumble in. Avalanches of stones were thundering down the
sides of the hole which appeared to be about 250 1/2 feet deep. The bottom was covered
with boulders. It was some compensation to discover that the pit is not bottomless as has
been heretofore supposed. We record this discovery for the benefit of science. The
following presents a fair outline of the shape of the now empty erewhile lake of fire, of a
perpendicular section.
Kind reader farewell. May you have better luck. We hasten to Hilo to put on our
black coat and weep.
P.S. We have ascertained that we were wrong after all in stating the time of
arrival. The real time was 2.9 and one second p.m.
Sanford B. Dole, 6 May 1877
Illustration: Cross section of pit 5 May 1877, Sanford B. Dole, showing appearance after
lava had drained away. Page 153.
Arrived yesterday p.m. from Kapapala, to find the Old South Lake dead, inactive,
closed to public exhibition. In place of it, the fires are active in a large cavern, 1000 feet
this way, and near the usual track to the old lake. This active cavern may soon burst out
and form a new lake. The fire is only slumbering and cannot long remain buried.
Madame Pele, on taking her departure from Halemaumau, left one of her trifles--a
bunch of long hair, twenty inches in length, which I have secured as a rare curiosity. It
was found yesterday to the right of Halemaumau.
Apostrophe to Pele
On the closing of Halemaumau May 4th
Farewell old mistress of the fiery world
We've seen thee oft in anger wild
Rolling within these prison walls
We've seen thee shake thy gory locks
At all who dared on thee to call.
We've seen thee burst thy prison walls
And rush where angels dare not tread
But now we see thee clothed in sombre shroud
Thy glory gone--death's hand on thee
Farewell, old Pele, thee we mourn
But soon may hear of thy return
Clothed in thy old time fiery robes
Till then, old dame, farewell.
H.M. Whitney, 6th visit, 8 May 1877
Arrived at 2 p.m. from Waiohinu via Kapapala, bound to Honolulu via Hilo.
Hearing rumors that, in the recent outbreak of the volcano 16 days since on the east side,
the lava has spouted over the walls of the crater, I started at 3 o'clock p.m. to ascertain the
facts. The locality of the outbreak is about 1 1/2 miles in a straight line about southeast
from the Volcano House, and is from a narrow crevice, i.e., narrow as compared with the
quantity of lava ejected. The crevice from which the flow took place commences at the
foot of the crater wall and extends up to within twenty or thirty feet of the top.
The lava ejected covering several acres in extent of the floor of the crater. Were I
to draw on my imagination for my facts, as many of the scribblers in this book seem to
have done, I should place the area covered at several thousand acres, but candor compels
me to place it somewhat lower, 100 acres, or, possibly less than half that, would cover the
facts and the area too. I regret exceedingly that I can't make it a million or so, it would
sound so grand. I clambered from the foot of the crevice to within 20 feet of the top. Like
Mark Twain, I can lie, but I won't--not in this case at any rate.
If there is any lava on the plain, above the wall of the crater, it is from an outbreak
there--probably in the old crater known as "Kilauea liilii."
I found the adventure extremely hazardous as the wall of the crater at that place is
very precipitous and covered with scoria and loose slag, rendering a foothold very
insecure. I several times wished myself down before I was through with it and when I got
through with it, I was down--fact, though and incredulous public may not believe it....
Thos. E. Cook, 21 May 1877
In the margin, someone wrote adjacent to the end of the first paragraph,
say 200 or 300 ft.
Below the entry, someone had pencilled in this poem:
1/2 past 10 p.m.
Pele o Pele you smoky old jade
Why don't you flare up now and give us a light,
Marry fond Kamapuaa you peppy old maid
And give us the treat of a connubial free fight.
no signature and no date
Bound for Hilo. No fire in the crater--dull times in the volcanic line.
Luther Severance, Kau, 22 May 1877
I visited this place just twenty-one years ago. "Pele" not near so active now as
then.
H.P. Richards, Salt Lake City, Utah, 14 June 1877
Someone wrote underneath:
Are you?
Arrived last evening from Hilo. Found the action in and near the South Lake
commencing, and occasionally the light was very brilliant during the night. It is probably
that the South Lake will soon be as active as formerly. Ther. 56 at 5:30 a.m.
H.M. Whitney, no date
J.S. Walker, C.N. Spencer, 26 June 1877
(Just signatures, no entry. I put this in to help pin the date above.)
Have visited the volcano of Kilauea en route from Waipio Valley via the coast of
Kona. Had an afternoon, twilight, and moonlit view of the crater. The crimson picture,
and fiery fountains, are more beautiful, and brilliant after nightfall than in the light of
day.
The view is grand when clad in moonbeams. The fires are up to the usual activity.
John N. Ingram, Charlotte, N.C., 26 June 1877
Fire very brilliant this evening.
J. Kanipoakaluli Meek, 26 July 1877
The perambulating Photographic Crowd started yesterday to take some
photograph negatives of Madame Pele's residence and succeeded in making 3 8 x 10
Stereo. Neg. of Sulphur Banks, arrived back at this house about half past 4. The fire in
the South Lake was at times quite brilliant during the evening and this morning Pele was
in a dense fog and a thick misty rain kept a pouring down up to 9 a.m.
John Meek, Jr., 25 July 1877
Returning started from Kapapala Ranch 7 a.m., arrived at Volcano House 11:10
a.m. At three minutes before 1 p.m. started into crater, reached brink of South Lake at 2.2
p.m. Stayed over two hours. Since Wednesday of last week the lake has risen in our
judgement quite 35 feet: we found its fires very active. We think the lake must overflow
soon. Returning we reached the house in one hour and seven minutes: pretty fair for
rheumatic knees. About to start for Hilo Aug. 3d.
Benj. H. Austin, Buffalo, N.Y.; H.C. Austin, Onomea, 2 Aug 1877
Volcano very active--witnessed a flow at 12 m.
Mr. and Mrs. T.B. Hascall, Honolulu, 8 Aug 1877
Crater very active last night.
L. Severance from Kau, 12 Aug 1877
Pele very "brilliant." Quite a flow towards the house this P.M.
no signature, 31 Aug 1877
Arrived at 1 p.m. from Kapapala via Ainapo. Volcano inactive. This is my first visit to
"Kilauea" after a residence of twenty years in the Islands....
P.C. Jones, Jr., Honolulu, 4 Sept 1877
Having come up to Hawaii from Honolulu on the new steamer, on her first trip,
landed at Punaluu, and thence to this place via Keaiwa and Ainapo. Arrived at 1 p.m. and
find the volcano less active than either of my three former visits. It seems to me that the
lava in the crater is ___ feet higher than in 1837--my first visit.
Edwin O. Hall, 4 Sept 1877
"Mother Pele" once more "retreating." Bottom of the South Lake fell about fifty
feet last night.
W.H. Lentz, 8 Sept 1877
Left Hilo at 9:15 a.m. Sept. 8 1877. Made the trip to the Volcano House in seven
hours. Three ladies and one gentleman. No rain. Visited the South Lake on the following
date, no rain. Lake very active and about 75 feet from the brim. Awful and grand beyond
description, the molten lava dashing against the walls of the crater with stunning
reverberations. We were made glad in getting there and more glad in getting away from
there.
Joel S. Josselyn, San Francisco, and party, 9 Sept 1877
Arrived at Volcano House Oct. 2, left Oct. 3 1877. Crater active.
H.M. Whitney, 2-3 Oct 1877
I visited this volcano 45 years ago. It was much more active then than now, but
the difference is great in regard to the comforts. Then every man furnished his own larder
and blanket and slept on the ground under a poor shanty. Now the accommodations are
very comfortable and the table laden with the choicest viands.
W.P. Alexander, Wailuku, Maui, 9 Oct 1877
Arrived here in a drenching rain,
And oh! dear! in what pain
And when I saw the burning lake
All my pain did me forsake.
D.H. Hitchcock, Jr., 27 Nov 1877
Started from Hilo by morn light
Arrived here in a fearful plight
The greatest sight 'tis safe to tell
It looked to me like burning hell.
M.A. Bridger, Oxford, New York, 27 Nov 1877
The first guest in the New House. Success attend it.
One of Nature's most beautiful days for visiting the volcano which I found very active,
having overflowed its banks last night. So said my guide.
George Morris, South Vallejo, California, 4 Dec 1877
Walked from Kapapala Ranch on our way to Hilo. Visited the crater and was
never so near Hell since we left the Naalehu Plantation.
D.D. Porter and W.H. Hyatt, 21 Dec 1877
My eleventh time here. Witnessed an overflow last evening.
Nathan C. Willfong, 22 Dec 1877
Grand flow from north base of hill on the north side of Halemaumau. Two
fountains at the source of stream.
Rufus A. Lyman, 24 Dec 1877
Morning of 25 descended crater and witnessed grand flow on north base of South
Lake. Two fountains one thousand yards apart. A rapid flow from each uniting in one
grand river about a quarter of a mile from source and one mile in length.
Edward Smith, 25 Dec 1877
This forenoon took a walk down to the lakes, but were prevented from ascending
the main crater, on account of its being dangerous in its present state of activity, but
without seeing the inside of the main crater, we had a good opportunity of observing the
main __ of lava, walking at one place on a crust of only 3 inches thickness, that being all
that divided us from a lake beneath us of liquid fire. After our return to the hotel I sold
my horse to Mr. D. Munro, leaving me to proceed on my journey on foot back.
Fredk. Vehling, Honolulu, 30 Dec 1877
Arrived at Volcano House from Keauhou via Panau, Puna. Volcano very active.
Wm. H. Lentz, 1 Jan 1878
...Found the volcano in about the same condition as when we first visited it Sept.
12th (Monday) 1874. Visited the volcano etc. this morning, boiling some eggs in the lake.
No one in the least fatigued but returning with a good appetite after the gentle exercise....
Wm. C. Talbot and party, San Francisco, 14 Jan 1878
Approximate measurements with 2-inch aneroid barometer give the following:
Half way house
1150 ft. elev.
Volcano House
4000 "
"
Foot of road down into crater
500 feet below the Volcano House
Present level of the lake Halemaumau
350 ft. below V. House
Height of the West Cliff
650 feet
Halemaumau is now about 400 feet long by 110 in width. Lake "Kilauea" is to the
west of it and not approachable. There is an extensive flow of lava from the north side of
the latter, about three quarters of a mile in length. N.N.E. in direction. True bearing of E.
side of Halemaumau from Volcano House S45W. Present height of cone 175 ft.
estimated.
Curtis J. Lyons, Asst. Kauai Govt. Survey, 18 Jan 1878
The lava flowing on north side of Halemaumau has cooled off, and is mostly
crusted over tonight.
R.A. Lyman, Hilo, 21 Jan 1878
Nine and twenty miles we rode,
Kilauea's fires to see
An hour o'er crusted lava we trode
And on the brink stood we
Forty feet, our eye beneath,
A raging burning sea
Hearts with awe & wonder filled
Full slowly turned we.
Wm. Renny Watson, Glasgow, Scotland, 26-28 Jan, 1878
One look at Pele, satisfied my curiosity.
Alice J. Cording, San Francisco, 31 Jan 1878
Two long looks and one short smell satisfied me.
J. Gates Jr., St. George, Utah, 31 Jan 1878
Last night inspected Madam Pele's school. About 30 bright pupils. Progress
satisfactory.
D.D. Baldwin, Insp. Gen. Schools, 7 Feb 1878
This is my 4th time here, I am on my way back from Hilo in company with C.T.
Wall. Nothing new.
J.B. Grant, Makaha, Haw., 3 March 1878
Revisited the volcano after a lapse of twenty years. Am very much pleased with
the comfort for both man and beast. Oh what can be more awful and sublime than this
burning Lake of Halemaumau?
signature illegible, 17 March 1878
The shades of eve are fallen fast
I see a lurid glow
They tell me its Crator below
It send up a terible fire & Smoke
And i Shure the Devil himself would choke.
My regards to Mother Pelley I think she is a fine old woman & a butiful head of
hair.
Charles E. Potter, California, 26 April 1878
"Facilis descensus Averni" (sed Horace)
"Facillissmus ascensus Kilauea: (say we)
If a convincing proof were wanting in support of the popular belief that
Halemaumau was one of the shortest known roads to, and in direct connection with the
Hell of history, a record of these our own impressions of our first visit to Frau Pele, may
be of service to the sceptic, the fire worshipper, or the true beleiver.
Footing it out from Hilo, as a pedestrian trio, assuredley we passed through
purgatory at an early stage of our pilgrimage, for, on the completion of the first of miles
out, did not all our new boots--purchases specially for the tramp--simultaneously come to
grief, and had we not reason to name that spot, purgatory, or place of departed soles?
Returning to the very rough shod in Hilo, we made a fresh start, and on this
second progress were perpetually and painfully reminded of Bunyan's, from the shortness
of those boots (No. 2 Hawaiian style, combining neither ease with elegance) and a
pilgrims on emboiled.
Camping at sundown in a fern made residence, 12 miles east of this best hotel we
know of on this Archipelageo (How's that for H.I.) we preserved dry skins, during a night
of heavy wet, and, fortified with a hearty breakfast of preserved pig's feet as boneless,
and teas as strong as our own--started fresh, bright, and early for this place, looking out
for the bad road we had not even up till then experienced. This bugaboo with sundry
others, as of dangers from wild cattle, losing the trail, absence of drinking water, of all
being _____ conspicious by their absence, and guides who promulgate such tales for
tourists, lead us to the belief that we were off that narrow and difficult trail which
conducts to the other place, and that broad, pleasant, and easy way which leadeth to
Hades, the flesh pots and comforts of this terrestrial Volcano House and destruction.
After a sulphur bath (oh! joy) on the brink of the bottomless pit lashing and
foaming with fire that seems only quenchable when expectant tourists vent their
disappointment in these volumes--our old native guide Charon Abraham realized to us
the fact that we were not in the immediate neighborhood of the real Gehenna, for did he
not refresh our parched lips with that cooling draught from his bosom--a drop of cold
water from his canteen, which we are taught will be denied those condemned to
everlasting condemnation and so here endeth this first lesson from Nature's own
brimstone factory, so mysteriously conducted by the matchless Madame Pele. All rights
of translation are reserved.
James Graham, 29 April 1878
An extensive flow is now taking place--at west end of South Lake, it was
preceded by a very heavy thunder storm.
L., possibly Lentz, 1 May 1878
From Hilo at 4 p.m., 9 1/2 hours. Rain all the way. Visited crater May 28. Crater
said to be unusually active. Were favored with a grand view of Halemaumau and a fine
outburst of lava, very hot and limpid almost at our feet as we were returning. Leave for
Honolulu via Ka-alualu Wednesday May 29.
James Eells, Oakland, Cal.; Frank Eells, Cleveland, 27 May 1878
After seeing the Chicago and Virginia City fire this small bonfire has no attraction
for me.
Ben A. Bowford, Naalehu Plant., Kau, 5 June 1878
Someone wrote underneath:
The above gentleman will some day see a fire compared to which the Chicago fire
will be a rush light.
The undersigned arrived at the Volcano House at 3:55 p.m. June 7. The volcano
was apparently quite active during the night, but the ride had fatigued your humble
servants sufficiently to enable them to sleep soundly. They started for the crater at 7:45
a.m. and traveled down at a jog trot.
A lava flow of moderate size and velocity was reached soon after reaching the bed
of the crater and their guide kindly moulded some coins in the molten lava for them.
The flow apparently came from the old north lake of the crater which has been
closed since '68; but the heat arising from the cooling lava blinded their sight too much to
enable them to trace its course. Two flows of considerable size and marked courses were
observed between this point and the South Lake, and the guide was unfortunate enough to
get into one of them and singe the hair off his goat skin sandals.
The course across the lava beds was very direct, and in due time the South Lake
was reached. They found it quite active, and it was of course pronounced at once as a hot
but sublime spectacle. The west end was comparatively quiet, but the northern portion
was a boiling seething mass. The lava was constantly being thrown up in jets to a great
height, some pieces being thrown even as high as the ledges on which our travellers
stood. The lake was undergoing a constant change, and was to all appearances increasing
in activity. When they first arrived there were only two places of any size where there
was much commotion, but in about fifteen minutes after the time of their arrival the
whole northern and western edges were throwing forth the lava in great volumes. There
was a circular motion in the lake tending from the south to the north. In the northeast
corner of the lake a cone had been formed which attracted the lion's share of attention
from the travellers. It was a "volcano in miniature" as was remarked by one of them.
There were two openings of considerable size, and through one of them the inside could
be very plainly viewed. The heat inside was intense and it was evident that there was
great commotion. This, viewed through the opera glass, augmented its grandeur and
sublimity. After a stay of about three quarters of an hour, and getting well warmed, our
friends started towards the Volcano House which they reached at 11:45 having been four
hours precisely at the crater. In the afternoon the sulphur bank was visited.
The party leaves immensely satisfied with the visit, and deeply impressed with
Kilauea, the most active volcano in the world. The volcano impressed itself as being a
remarkable, strange, and wonderful phenomenon, but the strangest thing connected with
the visit of our travellers to the volcano was the fact that the best meals, the best beds,
and the best attention--in fact the best of everything, and far exceeding anything on the
Hawaiian Islands had been rendered them by the genial host of the Volcano House.
Godwin McNeill, Sacramento, Cal., and party, 8 June 1878
Approximate measurements with D.H. Hitchcock's 2" Aneroid, give the following
results:
Volcano House
Bottom of 1st Cliff
Path above floor of Crater
Floor of Crater at path
"Blow hole" under West Wall
Edge of Lake
Surface of Lake (estimated)
Lava flow in N.W. corner of crater
3740 ft. above sea level
210 ft. below V. House
390
"
"
"
490
"
"
"
380
"
"
"
300
"
"
"
260+/- "
"
420
"
"
"
Clear weather, wind N.E.
Frank S. Dodge, Beverly, Mass., 19 June 1878
A surging mass of lava, dashing like surf against the walls of "Halemaumau" and
throwing gory clots high over the ledges, with "Pele's hair" streaming in the whiffs of
rising gas, accompanied by a roaring like the sea, was the never-to-be-forgotten
experience of our "Day at the Volcano." -"He toucheth the mountains and they smoke."
To Hilo tomorrow! Grand old Kilauea! I hate to leave thee.
Rev. L.H. Hallock, West Winsted, Connecticut, 28 June 1878
My 3rd visit. We will never come so near here again. Can't be trusted too risky.
And when I should have said Farewell
I only said. Why this is hell.
Wm. H. Howard, 4 July 1878
Our party arrived from Keaiwa at about 5:20 p.m. on Monday. Went to the "Pele"
the next day and found it not very active. Raining heavily all the night before.
Frank J. Lake and party, 16 July 1878
We arrived at the Volcano House at 3:00 p.m. Saturday July 20th 1878...Monday
after breakfast we started for the crater to see (as a former tourist, a Dutch gentleman,
expressed it) and we arrived when we got there (as another remarkable man said) at the
brink of the lake called Halemaumau which was in a most active state, which I will not
attempt to describe for the description has been so often written in this volume. All I will
state is that the level of this infernal cauldron was about 20 feet from the bank we were
standing upon, and the guide told us that yesterday when he was there with a party it was
within 12 feet of the brink and had sunk to the level that we now saw. On our return we
gathered specimens, and then had lunch, and when we had barely got through we were
startled by an exclamation from the guide. He pointed out to us a jet of lava which was
playing like a fountain about a mile to the left of us. We judged it was about 15 feet high,
and flowing very fast, the guide told us, and that the best thing we had better do was to
use our stumps as fast as possible, which we used to our best abilities but after a good
sharp walking of a mile the guide told us there was no more fear, as the flow was not
running in the direction to do us any harm, so we returned more leisurely after having a
pretty good scare, arrived back at the hotel at 2 o'clock p.m. having seen all we wanted to
see, and intend to have nothing more to do with Madame Pele for a time....
M.P. Robinson, 22 July 1878
We arrived July 23rd 1878 a pleasant party of nine, left Hilo at 8 o'clock, a
pleasant day. Arrived at the Volcano House at 5 o'clock, felt a little tired...Wednesday
morning rose early, had breakfast, then we descended to see the crater, found it very
active, returned about 12 o'clock being absent about 4 hours....
W.A. Conway, 24 July 1878
...We descended to see the crater, found it very active....
Captain Eldarts and party, 24 July 1878
The "Steam Hole Party" arrived here Thursday Aug. 15th about half past 5 p.m.
rather cold and moist. Visited the crater Friday, had a good view of the boiling lava, and
got specimens from the running lava. Saturday went into the woods and Sunday started
for home.
Mr. H. Hutchinson,18 Aug 1878
Pele favored us with a magnificent display.
Marion C. Cutter, Boston, Mass., 22 Aug 1878
Halemaumau very active. In the southwestern bank--two caves in which the lava
was in violent ebullition--so also around the bank of this whole lake the lava was molten
and the fire vivid. The floor of the crater was in constant motion. Kilauea or south Lake
could not be approached, but it too is in great activity. A flow from this lake extends
more than a mile across the great crater--we could approach it in many places and pick up
the flowing lava with our sticks. At night from this house I counted 22 spots of fire
glowing in the light of this flow.
In my former visits in 1851, 1856, and 1862 saw no display of fire to compare
with that now seen. The floor of the crater is much changed and elevated since my last
visit--all the old land marks have been obliterated. It is evident to me, that the whole floor
of the crater, is in constant motion--rising and subsiding by turns, as the surface of the
subterranean lava lake varies.
Dr. J. Mott-Smith, 20 Sept 1878
Started from Pahala, Kau, rested overnight and visited Volcano following day and
returned to Pahala the 25th. the Volcano very active and quite up to my expectation, from
description given by Capt. G. Willfong.
James Woodhead, London, 24 Sept 1878
Visited the crater this morning, but it was so full that it did not show off to
advantage. I am so pleased with "mine host" Mr. Lynch and the place that I have decided
to stay till the 23rd inst.; then will return to Hilo to make the Steamer LikeLike on the
24th inst. to return to Honolulu. I hope to see the burning lake under more favorable
circumstances before I leave.
Jos. W. Paul, Phila. U.S.A., 19 Oct 1878
The largest flow of the season took place this a.m. A solid river of fire 3/4 of a
mile long by 1/4 wide.
Wm. H. Lentz, 23 Oct 1878
Arrived at Volcano House Sunday Nov. 24th '78, visited South Lake same day,
found crater very active, and the lava within 12 feet of top of the bank, and a grand sight.
Arthur Cliff, 24 Nov 1878
Arrived here on Friday Dec. 6th from Hilo bound for Kau. Our first visit and the
volcano, which was very active and we were very well satisfied with our trip.
____G. Rose, Geo. S. Campbell, W.H. Lewes, 7 Dec 1878
According to the evidence of the guide the volcano was more active than he has
ever seen it before. The proprietor was most civil and obliging in every way.
F.I. Mathews, Chap., HMS "Opal," 10 Dec 1878
Left Hilo Christmas day, spent the night at the half way house. Arrived here next
day. We leave today, having spent a very agreeable week, having received the greatest
kindness and attention. The crater very active most of the time. Aloha ana nei oe e Pele.
J.S. Read, 2 Jan 1879
Arrived here yesterday 6 p.m. from Keaiwa, en route for Hilo. The crater is now
and has been for three weeks (or since the heavy rains set in) very active. There are now
as formerly two lakes connected by an isthmus, the old south lake being much larger, and
the lava in both rising nearly to the rim around them. But it has not run over the rim, the
lava bursting out on one side or the other every few days, making streams which are
gradually filling up the central basin. There was an unusual occurrence a few days since-a stream flowed out on the south side of the south lake, lighting up the whole southern
part of the crater. Last night fires were seen in every part of the crater, and it was very
brilliant. The hill surrounding the south lake is now higher than I have ever seen it, and
parts of it are nearly on a level with the top of the south wall of the large crater. Mauna
Loa has presented a splendid sight for ten days past, having been covered with snow
down to the forests. The snow fell on the night of December 26th and remained till
yesterday, January 6th, when the heavy rain washed it away. Thermometer stood at 50
this morning.
H.M. Whitney, 7 Jan 1879
From Hilo Jan 7, 8:30 a.m. Was up at 4:30. Heard frequent explosions in South
Lake and saw a fresh flow of lava. Visited South Lake at 8:30 a.m. and remained until 10.
the lava was about 30 feet below the rim and boiling like water below a dam under heavy
pressure. The point of activity was continually changing all around the crater sometimes
throwing the liquid high above the rim. It is the most wonderful thing I have ever seen. I
think there is a stream of lava passing from Mauna Loa to the sea underground through
South Lake and along the steam cracks. My first trip and probably the last.
Have been richly paid for my visit and shall never forget that incomparable
cauldron of molten stone--South Lake. Mr. Lentz, Dear Sir, I thank you for your
kindness...
Wm. Gardner, San Jose, California, 8 Jan 1879
I have come from the continent
To see just what they meant
By all their talk about the big volcano
I walked up from Hilo
And can't tell you how I feel O
But, perhaps by this time you may know
I have seen what old Nick's trade is,
And it looks like the devil
Is bringing up to our level
The things that belong only to Hades.
C.I. Osborn, Sacramento, Cal., 9 Feb 1879
Arrived from Hilo in the afternoon of the 10th February 1879 through the Puna
district. Fine weather. Thermometer 48 at 7 a.m. Find the volcano not as active as during
my first visit. Shall start for Kapapala this morning.
signature illegible, Honolulu, Second visit (1872-1879), 12 Feb 1879
Arrived at the Volcano House 14 Feb. 1879; left on the 18th. We were much
pleased with the hospitality and kindness we experienced from Mr. Lentz. Of course we
can echo the general expression of wonder and admiration at the phenomena of the crater,
and would add the observation that we greatly enjoyed several pleasant excursions in the
neighborhood, to which Mr. Lentz directed us.
Thos. Blackburn B.A., Chaplain to the Bishop of Honolulu, 18 Feb 1879
Altitudes Hawaii
Mauna Kea
Mauna Loa
Hualalai
Kohala Mts.
Volcano House
Kulani Bluff near V.H.
13675
3971
13,805 ft.
13,600 "
8,275 "
5,505 "
4,440 "
5,650 "
?
Wm. H. Lentz, 1 March 1879
In the above entry, the two figures in the center column, and the question mark, were
pencilled in by someone else.
Fire seen on the summit of Mauna Loa on the evening of March 9th by the above.
Walter Foote, Huntingdonshire; I.H. Postlethwaite, G.F. Postlethwaite, Liverpool,
England, 9 March 1879
Large and very bright light distinctly visible for over two hours on the summit of
Mauna Loa, which seemed to increase in size and volume before being shut out by
immense black clouds, which covered the whole top of the mountain.
Mr. Geo. P. Gordon and H. DuBois Van Wyck, Norfolk, Virginia, 9 March 1879
On the afternoon of March 15th 1879 the undersigned through the kindness of,
and accompanied by Mr. Lentz, started on horseback to attempt the circuit of the crater.
After a ride of five and a half miles we found ourselves directly opposite the Volcano
House. At this point the road became very unsafe and our horses sank deeper and deeper
into the sand and ashes at every step. We were forced to retrace our steps. If the wind had
been in the right direction, the action in the "South Lake" (at present inaccessible from
below) would have been plainly visible. Fine views of the bed of the crater were seen
from all points of the road. Are well pleased to have had the honor of being the first party
of ladies ever making this trip.
Harriet A. Townsend and party, 14 March 1879
The gentlemen illustrated on the foregoing page, were all much pleased at what
they saw at the crater pit, being fortunate enough to see it under very favorable
circumstance--independent of which they saw a stream of lava fully half a mile broad
flowing from the SW corner of the lake--in which they dipped their coins, as depicted on
the other side. This sight their guide informs them has never been seen before on such a
large scale. Having received every attention from their landlord, they started for Hilo at 9,
much gratified with their visit.
William Phillipps, Lydenham, England, and party, 28 March 1879
Illustrations: Two drawings: 1.Half-page drawing of horseback riders in the rain, titled
"Our voyage up, all wet through to the skin." 2. Half-page drawing of 6 men at the lava
lake, titled "Covering our coins with lava." Page 232.
The above party left Hilo Sunday morning in rather a bad humor for it was not
very dry weather and we were not very dry when we arrived at 5 p.m. but after a splendid
supper and a good fire we found ourselves a good deal better in all respects.
We visited the crater today which was not very active but in good spirits. Had
plenty of rain all day not heavy but fine mist. Leave here for Hilo Tuesday April 8th
1879. A splendid trip all through.
Nelson F. Remington, San Buenaventura, Cal. and party, 8 April 1879
I arrived here last night at 7 p.m. and had a splendid night rest. After breakfast I
went down to see the crater which was a wonderful sight. I came back highly blessed
with what I had seen. It is a sight that one can never forget through life.
W.A. McWhirter, Galt, Ontario, 15 April 1879
Bottom dropped out of Crater.
L. (W.H. Lentz), 21 April 1879
Arrived at the Volcano House April 21st '79. Went down into the crater next
morning and found the d--- thing extinct; having caved in the night before my arrival.
Just my luck.
G.G., San Francisco, 22 April 1879
Arrived from Hilo April 26th after a pleasant trip of six hours, but to our disgust
found that the bottom had dropped out of the crater.
This day set up the first Telephone ever put up on Hawaii which worked like a
charm. Hurrah for our Crowd.
William Hyatt, 2d visit, R.W. Douglas, 9th visit, Daniel Porter, Brooklyn, 3d visit, 28
April 1879
Left Keaiwa at 7:30 this morning, and after a very pleasant ride of seven hours,
arrived here at 2:30 p.m. Find a very great change during the past week--crater almost
extinct. Much more steam than usual on the sulphur flat beyond this house. The two lakes
of fire in the crater have disappeared in the depths of an immense pit, from which only a
few puffs of smoke and steam arise. Weather mild and cloudy.
A.O. Forbes, 8th visit, 28 April 1879
Very disappointed--Lake quite empty, no fire at all.
John Day, Tothenham, London, 29 April 1879
We arrived from Mr. Stone's at 12:30 yesterday, raining very hard with thunder
and lightning. Nothing to be seen at the crater except great quantities of steam caused by
the rain upon the hot lava. Start for Hilo today, no rain but very cloudy overhead.
Arthur A.B. Eliott, 29 April 1879
Both lakes very active, Halemaumau throwing jets of lava up at least fifty feet
above the rim of lake so often that the lake looks like a fountain of fire from the
verandah.
W.H. Lentz, 24 June 1879
I arrived here at 3:00 p.m. this day...Was received very courteously by the
gentleman in charge (W. Robeck) and we immediately proceeded to take a view of the
crater from the verandah, which at that moment Pele was upheaving volumes of lava
which was a glorious sight indeed. I intend making a visit to the crater tomorrow
morning, leave at 12 a.m. for Keaiwa, Kau...
July 2nd. Made a trip to the crater this morning in 55 minutes from the house, to
the active lakes. Was deeply impressed with the great changes that had taken place since
my previous visit on July 4th, 1878, as all traces of the original lake were entirely
obliterated, and in place of which was an enormous single lake, which was quite active
and was a beautiful sight indeed. Last night the scene was the finest I ever saw, the lava
being at least 50 feet above the crater.
William Tregloan, Honolulu, 2nd trip, 1 July 1879
Volcano same as yesterday--only a little more so.
Wm. B. Oleson, Portland, Maine, 8 July 1879
8 a.m. Large clouds of black smoke rising from South Lake. 8:10 a.m. Large flow
of lava from lake extending over at least 1/8 of the entire floor of the crater. 8:30 a.m.
Sulphur banks on south side of crater on fire. At 10:30 a.m. a large portion of South Lake
fell in.
W.H. Lentz, 14 July 1879
Returned from Kau (Pahala) today in time to see the flow. We must go home
Monday, unless we stay till Wednesday. The skulls arrived in sound condition. We will
be in Papaikou tomorrow or next day...
Wm. F. Jones, Oakland, Cal., 14 July 1879
Was greatly interested in watching last night the glow of the burning lava flow.
Extending from the hill straight across to the sulphur banks it had the appearance last
night of a burning city. Am sorry not to be able to go down to the flow this morning.
Chas. M. Hyde, 15 July 1879
Back again from Kau. Had a most enjoyable trip visiting caves, collecting
specimens, attending picnics &c. Our visit to Kau was most timely from the fact that
today an immense flow has broken out in the large crater. We are told that it is the largest
knows for several years.
The sight tonight is grand beyond all description. Visit the crater tomorrow, and
leave for Hilo. Second visit.
Frank E. Adams, Oneida, N.Y., 14 July 1879
Our party of "three" has just returned from its perilous trip over the hot lava to the
"Halemaumau" and there dipped our walking sticks into the molten mass to bring away a
trophy of our temerity. Truly a most dangerous and foolish undertaking. We hope we will
have sense enough not to tempt Providence a second time. May those who come after us
escape as well and enjoy the comforts of the Volcano House as keenly as we did.
David Owens and party, Santa Barbara, Cal., 20 July 1879
Visited Kilauea July 27th. Saw a stream of lava rushing like a mill stream break in
crimson waves and fiery spray on the side of the South Lake.
E.T. Webb, 27 July 1879
"Wonderful things in Nature we see
But none more wonderful Pele than thee."
L.D. Miner, Montreal, Canada, 29 July 1879
Back from the volcano, wonderful sight. South Lake one grand mass of boiling
lava, the river running from lake about 12 miles an hour.
Frank O'Brien, Grand Rapids, Mich., and party, 22 Aug 1879
My second visit to the crater of Kilauea; and as its appearance is now so very
different to that of my former one, on the 9th Nov. 1874--see page 68--I will attempt a
brief description. On the former occasion there were two lakes, both nearly circular in
form, the southernmost almost 100 yards in diameter, and filled with lava to about 5 feet
of the brim and in a comparatively quiescent state; the other, and larger one, to the
westward, was at least 1/3 of a mile in diameter; and the lava in a furious state of
ebullition, at least 150 feet below the edge of the pit. Now we found--I went in company
with above party--after ascending a cone at least 150 feet lower than in former visit but
one lake, or rather river, as it is almost serpentine in form, apparently 1/2 a mile in length,
over 50 feet in breadth, and about half of which we could plainly see running in a general
direction of from south to SW, the molten fluid within flowing steadily towards where we
stood on the N.E. side; in a current running sometimes 4, and at others at least 8 miles per
hour; and all the time in a state of furious activity; it disappeared at about 100 feet,
immediately below us, to emerge once more into the main body of the crater, through an
ovenlike opening--at a distance of about a mile from its first disappearance; at its exit it
ran in a sort of elevated dyke, much above the general level of the crater floor, in N.E.
direction, and at a speed of at least 12 miles per hour, and gradually spreading itself over
the lava of former flows. But my pen fails to convey any idea of the sublimity and
awfulness of the whole scene.
Geo. H. Luce, Honolulu, 25 Aug 1879
What we saw in the region below
I really scarce hardly know
How in words to express
So must leave to you to guess
Until down to see it you go.
But 'twas awful, mysterious, and grand
And I'm sure that in no other land
Is there aught to compare
With what we saw there
Or that would in comparison stand.
But Pele, some call you "a jewel"
I call you relentless and cruel;
And my wife says she never,
Well at least hardly ever,
Saw such wasteful consumption of fuel.
no signature, possibly Geo. H. Luce, 26 Aug 1879
Crater very active.
Daniel Porter, 4th visit, 5 Sept 1879
The crater appears much the same but not so deep as I remember it, and the action is less.
The hotel is an improvement on the small grass home with no residents.
Jon Austin, Paukaa Plantation, 6th visit, first two in 1850 and three in 1851, 16 Sept 1879
Second visit to the volcano, find the general appearance of the crater entirely
changed since my previous visit in 1877.
L. Turner, Waiohinu, 19 Sept 1879
First visit to the volcano, find everything very different from what we expected. It
is mighty and awful.
Edwin W. Tucker, 20 Sept 1879
Arrived from Hilo which I left on the 6th on foot, camped out two miles from the
Halfway House, started on the 9th in floodlike rain and got here after eight hours walking
almost without interruption on a road more resembling a mountain stream than a trail.
Fine view at night amply rewarded for the trouble. Heaven and Hell appear to touch each
other.
signature illegible, Sydney, Australia, 9 Nov 1879
Left Hilo at 7 a.m. and arrived at Volcano House at 5:30 p.m. Monday. We were
all well pleased at the sight that we saw on looking into the crater at dark. The big lake
was very brilliant-- and the lava had broken out here and there outside of it. The meals
that Mr. Lentz, the manager of the hotel, provided for us were really excellent.
Samuel Parker, 14 Nov 1879
We the undersigned arrived at the pele nei on Thursday the 19th inst. Crater not at
all active. Were disappointed. Got caught in a rain storm and got wet through. Leave
tomorrow for Makaha.
Joseph H. Dean, Harry World, Salt Lake City, Utah, 21 Nov 1879
The appearance of the crater during the evenings of Nov. 24 & 25th was very
much as described by Rev. C.M. Hyde July 15th on page 268.
Chas. H. Wetmore, Hilo, 24 Nov 1879
Page 268, mentioned in the above entry, is missing.
I shall attempt no description of that which has been described many times before
by those who have been so fortunate as to see Kilauea in all its glory; but for my own
benefit, if in the future I may revisit this wonderful place, I can, if this book is still in
existence, note a fraction of the effect which the sights of today have produced upon me.
Having reached the bank overlooking the South Lake, I may have been, as many more
have been before me, at first disappointed at being unable to catch but an occasional
glimpse of the seething fire below, but the grandeur of the scene gradually forced itself
upon me and I could have remained for hours watching, but that the other visitor, Mr.
Webb, expressed a desire to move on. For a couple of hours we traversed the main basin
in search of flowing lava but were unable to find any, although in several places I could
poke my stick into a crevice and set the stick on fire, by the molten mass beneath, which I
could plainly see and which was covered by a crust not more than eighteen inches thick;
in fact the crust was so hot as to make walking over it exceedingly unpleasant.
Being obliged to return to Hilo tomorrow I visited the extinct crater of Kilauea-Iki
and returned to the house late in the afternoon. When I consider the powers which have
been at work for ages, to produce this mighty mass of destruction, and whose work may
be seen all the way from Hilo, I consider myself amply repaid for the time and trouble
expended in reaching it and I shall carry away with me the memory of a sight which I
have never seen equalled and which I may never in any other part of the world see
surpassed.
Howard G. Kelley, San Francisco, 2 Dec 1879
The scene of the volcano to me was supremely grand and ne'er will the sublime
and glorious impression of the fiery view ever fade from my memory. What! Never!
Mrs. Jennie Griffin, 9 Dec 1879
Arrived at the Volcano House at 11 a.m. one hour in advance of our guide. Found
the crater active, each of our party taking away specimens of lava. One man, being more
venturesome than the rest, nearly lost his life by advancing to the edge of the crater.
F.B. Crane, New York, 13 Dec 1879
...Arrived here last night at 10:15 p.m. very much surprised at ourselves for
getting here at all. Weather was fine, scenery beautiful--only the latter part of our journey
'twas too dark for us to fully appreciate it.
Visited the volcano this morning, very active, smells strongly of sulphur,
brimstone, etc. Think it was a mistake in its being placed here, ought to have been placed
at Greenland to thaw out the country in the region of the North Pole. Very interesting
sight however and are all pleased with our visit.
H.S. Wallingford, California, 16 Dec 1879
The 3rd New Year's Day here. Weather clear and calm, crater active.
Wm. H. Lentz, 1 Jan 1880
Halemaumau on January 5th 1880 from the south south-east. On the afternoon of
this day I saw the surface of the lake broken by lines of fire twice which passed in
successive waves stretching across the entire lake and advancing from one end to the
other.
T.J. Kinnear, 5 Jan 1880
Illustration: Perspective drawing of Halemaumau on 5 Jan 1880; showing Pali and Bench
of old Lava, and molten lava in red, T.J. Kinnear. Page 276.
Left Hilo at 8:30 a.m., spent 1 hour at the Halfway house and arrived at the
Volcano House at 8:30 p.m. wet to the skin of course. The road was bad but the horses
were--well words cannot express how bad. Were rewarded for our wretched experience
by a good flow of lava in the crater and moderate activity on the part of the volcano.
Enjoyed the sulphur vapour bath and our stay at the hotel.
R.A. Macfie, Jr., Liverpool, England, 12 Jan 1880
Left the Volcano House for the crater at 9:30 a.m. in company with above ladies
and gentlemen and was quite fortunate in seeing a fresh flow of lava about one mile this
side of the south Lake; after leaving this met another flow below the ridge adjoining
Halemaumau. Being a clear day had a beautiful sight of the South Lake--not active--but
was successful in seeing Halemaumau quite active sending forth every now and then
considerable amounts of hot lava, which at one time covered about one-third part of the
lake. Got back to the hotel 4:10 p.m. well satisfied.
B., 13 Jan 1880
Go in the crater Jan. 22 '80, 8 a.m., I was fortunate to seen the crater very active
for 2 days. Clear weather.
Ernest Julius Pester, Los Angeles; born in Saxony, Germany; 22 Jan 1880
Crater very active. Got specimens of Pele's hair, also coins in lava.
Freeman Duff, Pahala, Kau, 18 Feb 1880
My fourth School Inspection tour of the Kingdom, and third visit to Volcano
House. Madam Pele's School continued to maintain a first-class grade of proficiency. I
take pleasure in testifying to the remarkable brilliancy of some of her present pupils, and
especially to the faithful attention of our host to the comfort of his guests.
D.D. Baldwin, Honolulu, 22 Feb 1880
Left Hilo at 8 a.m. yesterday...reached the Volcano House about 7 p.m....and as
the evening was bright and clear were rewarded with a fine illumination from Kilauea.
At 8 a.m. we started, with Mr. Roebeck for our guide, and at 10 a.m. reached the
crater. The south lake being somewhat active we remained 2 hours and returned well
satisfied with our visit....
Sidney Sweet, Dansville, New York, 9 March 1880
...Arrived at Volcano House at 2:30....The sublimity and awfulness of the scene I
leave for others to describe.
H. Deacon, Waiakea, First visit, 23 March 1880
...Arrived at the Volcano House at 6:20 p.m. Time 8 hrs. 35 min., leave this
afternoon for Halfway house. Crater active.
Fred Wilhelm, 2nd visit, 28 March 1880
First visit....March 30th at 9 a.m. left Halfway house and arrived at Volcano
House at 1:30 p.m....Visited the volcano and remained all day. Could not get within three
hundred yards of the fire, which at times was quite active. There we sat under the lee of a
waterproof for more than five hours, wishing the weather would clear and the lake
become more active. Return to Hilo April 1st....
Isaiah Bray, Boston, Mass., Missionary Packet "Morning Star," 31 March 1880
...Arrived at the Volcano House Wednesday Mar. 31st at 3 p.m., went down the
crater next day but did not find it very active but was well pleased with the changes that I
saw since my last visit in Aug. 1879. We intend to leave tomorrow morning for Kau...
Thomas Shore, 2nd visit, 1 April 1880
Left for Mauna Loa on the 4th of April with guide August Robeck. We walked all
the way...Camping ground 5:45, foggy, pack animal played out; obliged to carry the pack
ourselves. II day, left 6 o'cl., very foggy, always direction NW, had no trail, climbed up
between two aa's over good pahoehoe; 1 o'cl. no more drinking water air getting very
light. Camped from 6 ocl. to 5 ocl. in the morning 200 feet below the snow without fire
and water. It was a little cold! III day. 9 o'cl. on top; as far as we could see, deep snow;
walked across more than 1 hour, got into the snow to our shoulders, saw the place of the
crater but couldn't look down into it. No sign of smoke or fire; and no action could be
seen at all. Crater apparently extinct at present. Left V day 4 Oct., back in the Volcano
House at 7 ocl. We didn't eat for 3 days more than for one usual breakfast; trouble from
the rare air was considerable but pouls [pulse] 120. All the aa we passed through to the
top and back was not more than about 1/4 of a mile.
signature illegible, 8 April 1880
Arrived at the Volcano House at 10 a.m. and had a good rest also a good dinner.
Left for the crater at 1 p.m. and found it partly active and got some specimens of lava and
returned.
J.G. Kipp, San Francisco, 12 April 1880
The party saw the South Lake in splendid activity about noon April 22, and some
hours later witnessed the eruption of lava on a spot about 3/4 of a mile eastward off the
former, flowing northward, Most of the party walked down for a second time, after
sunset, to catch a glimpse of the scene in darkness.
Officers of the Imp. Russian Navy, arrived from Hilo, where the cruiser Dgiggit has been
anchored. Admiral Baron Stackelberg, Captain Ch. De Livron, etc., 22 April 1880
We were fortunate on our trip down to the crater to see the first eruption of a new
flow of lava, which commenced yesterday afternoon. The lava is now flowing around to
the thickness of 2 or 3 feet, and at night the flames could be seen rising to a great height,
throwing a bright red glow on the clouds around, the molten lava presenting a bright and
clear light at intervals; at times looking as if there was a procession of torches below. We
were informed the volcano was rarely better seen.
A.G. Low, Sydney, en route to San Francisco, 23 April 1880
Illustration: Drawing of Kilauea, 23 April 1880, A.G. Low. Page 295.
Geo. T. Garland visited the volcano April 24 and departed a wiser man.
Geo. T. Garland, 24 April 1880
9:30 p.m. Mokuaweoweo--the large crater on top of Mauna Loa burst out in a
large lurid light with a roar resembling thunder. 10:05 p.m. a second eruption this time
from the crater to the north of Mokuaweoweo--apparently as large as the first. 11 p.m.
still another this time S.W. from the first making in all three active fires on top and slope
of Mauna Loa. Kilauea very active, both lakes booming, a third forming--several large
flows on floor of crater.
Wm. H. Lentz, 1 May 1880
Latest from Mokuaweoweo.
The following account of a visit to the above crater was kindly transmitted to me
by one of the gentlemen making the trip, he being a well known and reliable resident of
the Kau district.
Left Kaalaala (mud flow of 1868) May 5th at 8 a.m., traveled steadily until 6 p.m.
on our animals--the road (trail) up to this time was not bad (for Hawaii) but have found it
a little too rough--being on the pahoehoe above the koa grove--and so left them tied out-after eating a hearty meal (some would say 2 meals in one and having one of tired
nature's consolers (a Smoke) prepared our "pack" which consisted of a pair of blankets,
extra clothing, food and water (nothing Stronger) which we "slung" tramp fashion and
started on foot--at 6:45 p.m. having been up to now 10 and 3/4 hours from our starting
place. At 6:45 p.m. having satisfied the inner man, we shouldered our packs and started.
We walked, we climbed, fell and rose again--and after 4 1/2 hours of such performance
reach our "haven" and "Ye Gods" what a sight burst on our vision (along and on top of
the mountain (Mauna Loa) there was more or less snow) tho as hard as a rock it reflected
the lurid glare from--(who knows where) jets of lava that were thrown up at least 300 feet
above the walls of the lake in the S.W. end of the South Lake that was full to almost the
tops or sides of the crater (or brim) apparently the south lake or active portion of
Mokuaweoweo was from 300 to 325 acres in area. Having at or about 11 p.m. reached
the edge of the crater, we made arrangements to have an hour or two's sleep--but what
with the excitement of beholding such a gorgeous spectacle, the coldness, feet aching,
hands tingling, giddiness and shortness of breath--we slept not. At 6 a.m. the 6th started
down on our homeward way--after having traveled (tramped) say an hour or so found we
had lost our guide (God forgive us for so calling him) so we sought for him and wandered
around over clinkers (that are "A1" for shoemakers) and pahoehoe for at least 2 1/2 hours
when thanks to our pocket compass (not flask) we found him and the road. They say you
can "bet your life"--but I for one am willing to bet my boots and all my old clothes, that I
always carry a pocket compass after this as I think it saved us from at least a days
wandering amongst unknown lava fields (old flows) and right here don't forget it be sure
and take plenty of water--not whiskey--and leaving at least one canteen with your horses,
as you will need water on the return trip as well as going up. The views and sights both
small and large--of the clouds--were immense, in fact they were worthy of the "Grand
Masters" as it was I was on a lookout expecting to see one or a half a dozen of those
charming little rosebuds (cherubs) popping out of the ever changing mass of silver
'mongst the clouds. However at last we reached our faithful animals, and after a bite we
saddled up and were off. We kept as the boy said "right along" and reached our starting
point at 5 p.m. on the 6th having been just 33 hours on the trip. Wet, tired, hungry and
played out, and all we can say, stranger, don't try it. In addition to the above I will
suggest to parties contemplating making the trip to make sure that their animals are well
shod. Take blankets, provisions, and plenty of water so as to leave a canteen with your
animals for you will need it coming back. And make sure of having a pocket compass
and a reliable guide. The distance is about the same from the V.H. as from where the
above party started.
Wm. H. Lentz, 13 May 1880
Referring to J. Lydgate's sketch of the summit crater Mokuaweoweo on page 47,
Will Goodale, who visited it May 5th during the eruption describes a basin at the south
end of the crater similar to that drawn at the north, as here was the lake of fire referred to
on the preceding pages.
For a young, vigorous, healthy person there seems to be no great hardship or
suffering in making the excursion.
W. Goodale, 15 May 1880
Halemaumau about 400 feet broad throwing molten lava over 70 feet high, while
the South Lake and a new lake forming on the east thundering forth oceanic roarings
through dense clouds of smoke. The undersigned suddenly saw the path they had just
traversed made impassable by fumes of vapor and smoke, while rocks were thrown up a
few yards distant in the only remaining route. We hastily retreated. We found the
accommodations of this house excellent and the host kindly attentive.
J.M. Alexander, Haiku, 18 May 1880
Those underlined visited the Volcano House May 25th 1880. The pleasure of
meeting my friend Mr. Lentz repays me for the hardest ride I ever experienced. The
volcano is too expressive. I prefer to return to the other shore although it is a hard road to
travel.
I.W. Tabor and party from the "Casco," 25 May 1880
5 a.m. quite a heavy shock of an earthquake--no damage--no change in volcano.
L., probably W.H. Lentz, 20 June 1880
Arrived Thursday June 24th 1880. Six hours from Hilo, leave tomorrow June 29th
for the same place.
The new lake left of Halemaumau increased in size about one-fourth between our
two visits, Friday and Monday, and according to L. vT. "Too awfully bloody jolly for any
thing."
We cannot speak too highly of the kindness and hospitality of our host, Mr. W.H.
Lentz. His bill of fare might give Delmonico a new wrinkle or two.
"Ye Tourists,"Wailuku, Maui. L.A. Thurston, J.H. Bemise, New Orleans, Louis von
Tempsky, Auckland, N.Z., 28 June 1880
Left Hilo at 7:30 a.m., arrived at Volcano House at 4:45 p.m., stopped at half way
house 45 min. making the trip in 8 1/2 hours. Road in miserable condition; the worst one
I have ever been over.
13th. Morning, 7 a.m. Cold and foggy, cannot see the crater. Started at 7:30; saw
the two lakes active--a most brilliant spectacle--arrived at Volcano House at 12 noon.
14th. Left at 7:30 a.m. for Hilo.
Fr. Specher, Remagen on Rhine, Germany, 12 July 1880
Visited the crater today for the third time. Found it quite active. Saw
"Halemaumau" and the new lake and crossed over a fresh flow but just cooled. Made
some coin specimens.
Kilauea presents something new each time and is truly one of the great wonders
of the world.
Frank E. Adams, Honolulu, 15 July 1880
Left Mr. Stone's plantation this day at 11:45 a.m. and arrived Volcano House at
4:30...Found the volcano very active.
William Tregloan, 27 July 1880
Pages half cut out from p. 317-320, including the sketch described as follows.)
This is a fairly correct sketch of the Lava Lake, which broke out in May 1880. It
is 3000 feet in circumference and the sides are 50 ft to 60 ft deep. It is so active at this
date, and so brilliant at night, that Rawbuck the guide expects it will soon become much
larger, its position is several hundred yards to the left of the pile of rocks in the centre of
the crater as seen from the Guest House. The lava was boiling up under the rocks in the
foreground where we stood, as briskly as on the left side of the crater.
T. Unett Brocklehurst, Henbury Park, Cheshire, England, Sept. 1880
This is my second visit to the volcano and I find it more active than when I was
here nearly 18 years ago.
E.W. Barnard, Wailuki, Maui, late of Nelson, N.Z., 19 Sept 1880
Severe shock of earthquake here at 4:15 a.m. this day.
W.H. Lentz, 25 Sept 1880
10 hours from Hilo, wet and muddy. Fine night view of two lakes in crater.
Sept. 26. Visited the New Lake and found it very like the representation on page
320 by our friend T.U. Brocklehurst.
Rosey S. Wilson, Lexington, Mo.; Frank P. Wilson, San Francisco, 25 Sept 1880
Page 320 half cut out, no sketch.
Arrived here in six hours from Pahala. A fine night view of two lakes in crater.
Take our departure Sept 24th for Pahala.
T.A. Wills, 26 Sept 1880
First visit.
Sept. 30. I visited the New Lake and found it to be the finest sight in the world. I
think it is the nearest to Hell I ever want to be, go and see for yourself.
H.B. Hales, 29 Sept 1880
Lava, battling with fire--No meteor, however terrible it may be supposed to be,
can be compared to an explosion of fire from this volcano. Let one of those scourges of
heaven be imagined which appear sometimes as if designed for the punishment of human
beings--A thunderbolt, a hurricane, a cyclone, or a whirlwind--burning, overthrowing,
destroying every thing in their course, and the effects produced by them will still be
inferior to those caused by an eruption from this crater.
A discharge of 10,000 cannons loaded with canister shot, and fired point blank
into the City of London, 10,000 powder magazines taking fire in the center of New York
City, 10,000 gasometers exploding in China, can scarcely give an idea of an explosion of
fire from this crater. Even the fire-damp, the moment the mixed gas of fire-damp comes
in contact with the flame of a lamp a tremendous explosion takes place, resulting from
the combination of the components of the fire-damp, hydrogen and carbon, with the
oxygen of the air, the two former separate to combine with the oxygen, with which they
have the greatest affinity. The double phenomenon only takes place at a high
temperature, without flame it would not arise. The reaction produces an effect like the
most brilliant lightning and makes itself heard by a slap of thunder, still it cannot be
compared to the Kilauea.
The explosion from her, spreads instantly into all the galleries of the crater. A
roaming whirlwind of flaming fire, destroying, overthrowing everything it encounters. A
terrible sea of crazy flames.
Henry Browett Hales, Wailuku, Maui. Late of New Plymouth, N.Z., 1 Oct 1880
I have seen many of the great curiosities and natural wonders of the world, but
never has any impressed me with the greatness of the Almighty's works as this volcano. It
certainly repays one for all the hardships of getting to it.
Jacob Lyons, San Francisco, 12 Oct 1880
In the margin of the above entry, someone wrote:
This may have been true at that time but in June 1897 it was a ____ lie in every
way.
Just been taking a glimpse of Hell.
W.J. Garrick in company with the above. 4 hours and 15 minutes from Pahala--on
"Bones" and "Bob"--Caught a glimpse today of my future abiding place.
E.E. Mayhew, Washington, D.C., 13 Oct 1880
The Lake sketched and described on page 320 [missing] remains much the same
although in far less apparent activity today. The crater is very nearly circular in form and
the wall almost perpendicular, but the molten lava is 150 or 200 feet below the top of the
banks and the fires appear in miniature much as seen in the sketch referred to.
The lake or crater described to the undersigned in February 1879 as the principal
seat of activity at that time has wholly disappeared, there being no molten lava to be seen.
Halemaumau is quite active as is also Kilauea or South Lake.
L.P. Tenney, 27 Oct 1880
I arrived Tuesday Nov. 2d with a party of thirty-four boys from Kula Havai o
Hilo, and start tomorrow morning on return trip to Hilo. We camped on the first level
below Volcano House. Contrary to expectations, none of the thirty boys who went down
into the crater manifested any fears, and no indications of lingering superstitions were
detected, which is saying a good deal for Hawaiian boys, only one of whom had been in
the crater before. The lava is flowing on the north side of the crater, and quite perceptibly
changing the level. There are three distinct lakes, without any other than underground
connection. "Kilauea" is crowded into very small dimensions, while "Halemaumau"
remains in outline about as it was a year and a half ago, but not being accessible no
definite idea of its condition could be gained. Apparently the lava has sunken to a great
depth as no sound could be heard. The special seat of activity was in a new lake toward
the southeast, not far removed from "Halemaumau." Here there was a vigorous activity
though nothing violent. So far as could be seen none of these lakes showed any
sympathy--a fact which if true might show some light on the relations of Kilauea and
Mokuaweoweo. I have seen two of these lakes when there was a rapid flow of lava
alternately from one to the other, and at a time when there seemed to be less activity than
during this visit. It is of course true that all of these lakes are intimately connected and yet
there may be something in the nature of lava at different degrees of temperature, as well
as an unknown influence on the currents below the point of connection which may keep
the lava in one lake at an ebb and another in a state of special activity and that too for
some appreciable length of time. If this supposition could be verified, it would evidently
explain the reason why Kilauea and Mokuaweoweo though connected by underground
channels, can either of them be in violent action and yet the other remains unaffected.
Wm. B. Oleson, Hilo, Second visit, 4th trip into the crater, 4 Nov 1880
I have been to many strange countries and have seen many strange and wonderful
sights but an active volcano is the most wonderful that I have seen.
Gussie Kuk, San Francisco, 11 Nov 1880
About 9 p.m. Nov. 5th a flow of lava started from the northern slope of Mauna
Loa--apparently toward Waimea--of Hilo, and is still running.
On Nov. 9th about 8 p.m. the above flow started a branch along the slope and face
of the mountain towards Kapapala Ranch, Kau, and is still on its journey making, I
should judge, 8 to 10 miles per day.
Wm. H. Lentz, 12 Nov 1880
The hills melted like wax at the presence of the Lord. 97th Psalm.
A. Sunter, Aioholo, Kau, en route to Hilo, 15 Nov 1880
Kilauea. The wildest wonder of the world. Dante's Inferno and Dives' great gulf
combined. The Azoic. Once the world was without life, Kilauea is a remaining part of
that far off Once. Go pantheist and look down into this demonstration of damnation and
read in liquid lore the loveless language of Lucifer and then give up your god.
Nelson J. Bird, San Francisco, 3 Dec 1880
I have seen this day the grandest sight in the world, I believe.
Frank Northrup, Tehama Co., Cal., 3 Dec 1880
Have just come from the crater. It is the first great natural wonder I have seen on
my "Trip around the World" and I doubt in all my travels I shall find a greater wonder.
R.G. Mudge, San Francisco, 3 Dec 1880
Elevation of Volcano House, Kilauea, 4021 ft.
The above is the result of one day's half-hourly observations with two Mercurial
Syphon Barometers, one being observed here, the other in Hilo.
J.M. Lydgate, Haw'n Gov't Survey, 7 Dec 1880
Adjacent to the above entry, someone had pencilled in:
Levels USGS 1911-12 3973 ft.
Left Hilo Dec. 8th 9 o'clock a.m., arrived at the Volcano House 9 o'clock
p.m....Today the 9th have been into the crater. found it one boiling mass and have justly
decided that a description of a volcano is past description. Will leave for Hilo tomorrow
morning at daybreak.
E. Wilder, no date
Our first visit, but we sincerely hope to see again the wonders of Pele....
Jas. Dowsett and party, 13 Dec 1880
Christmas eve with naught but Madam Pele's bonfires, a grand sight.
F.L. Lyman, Hilo, 24 Dec 1880
Illustration: Full-page shaded pencil drawing of Halemaumau within Kilauea, 24 Dec
1880, showing molten lake, Uwekahuna Bluff, and Mauna Loa. Page 348.
We have had a most pleasant visit of three days at the Volcano House and during
that time have visited "Lua o Pele" twice, finding it very active both times....
Mr. and Mrs. Sinclair, Niihau, 10 Jan 1881
Arrived at Volcano House on January 13/81 and found it a grand scene.
Fred Haugaard, Naalehu, 13 Jan 1881
Arrived here 11 hours from Hilo. Second visit, after an absence of 45 years. I find
the crater much changed since 1835. It was then estimated to be 800 feet deep over its
whole surface. No cones over 50 to 75 feet high. There was then a very large lake plainly
visible night and day from the volcano house. The facilities for visiting the crater and the
comforts of a good House are far greater than formerly.
Chas. Burnham, Philadelphia, 17 Jan 1881
Brigham says "110 cones" but it clearly says "no cones," as can be seen by comparing the
"n" in "night."
The above pilgrims arrived here Jan 22 on foot 11 hours walk from Hilo, had a
pleasant journey, weather clear. Today we have visited the crater and saw four lakes all
of which were very active. We made the entire circuit of the crater and got some very
good coin specimens. tomorrow we return to Hilo. The landlord of the Volcano House,
Mr. Lentz, is a jolly good fellow, "So say we all."
John A. Younie, Brooklyn, N.Y., 23 Jan 1881
Saw the volcano, very active, but the wind was unfavourable and we were not
able to stay long and we had very bad weather.
Robt. Whitehead, Manchester, England, 5 Feb 1881
I came here at noon Tuesday Feb. 15th in company with the "boss" of the place
Mr. G.W.C. Jones and whether owing to a notice having been forwarded in due time
previous (observe V.H. advertisement) or whether the "fiery regions" wished to show due
honor to their Lord, about half an hour after our arrival and just as we had sat down to
dinner, a good-sized fountain of liquid lava suddenly broke out close by the irregular pile
of lava in the crater, and to the northwest of it. This fountain continued boiling for
upwards of fifteen minutes throwing itself up as a whole fully twenty-five (25) feet in the
air, and it was only as it began subsiding that it became divided up into sprays. In a very
short time the floor of the crater for quite a distance in front of the outbreak became
covered with smooth glistening lava. Both Mr. Jones and Mr. Lentz said that they had
never witnessed a similar phenomenon in the crater. When I visited the crater on the next
day, there was quite a stream of molten lava still flowing from the fresh outbreak, at a
speed of at least 6 miles per hour. On our way to the South Lake we had to cross over
considerable lava which had been poured out the day before from the same source, and
that we found rather "hot walking." We had a fair wind to see the new large lake which
displayed great activity during our stay on the banks. At times fully one-third of the
whole lake was a mass of boiling blood-red liquid lava, surging and dashing its waves
several feet high.
At this my first visit I cannot help expressing my extreme satisfaction at the good
accommodation of the House and the civil and gentlemanly attention of the management-Mr. Lentz.
H.W. Vineberg, M.D., Kau, 17 Feb 1881
We left Hilo Bay at 9 o'clock a.m. got to Half Way House 12 M. Rest and started
1 1/2 p.m. Arrived here 5 p.m. Brightest scene at 8 p.m. as shown here.
Joseph Nawahi, 19 Feb 1881
Today spent six hours in the crater and found the New Lake very active.
no signature, but probably Joseph Nawahi, 20 Feb 1881
The following entry has been translated from Hawaiian by Dorothy Barrere.
"...The volcano was active till morning..." added in English.
Haalele aku ia Hilo Hora 9 AM Poaono Feb. 19th. Hiki mai i anei nei Hora 5-1/2
PM. Hora 8 o ia ahiahi ua ikeia na hoomalamalama ana o ke ahi pele i luna o Maunaloa, a
pela hoi ma aia loko Ahi o Halemaumau ka loko Ahi lou. Feb. 20th: Hora 8-1/2 AM
hoomaka e iho e makaikai no ka Loko Ahi hou (The New Lake) a e huli ana hoi i na mea
ano hou o ka Home Kaulana o ka Madama Pele. Ua hoohalaia he eono mau hora ma ke
kaapuni ana lalo o ka papa hele o ka lua. Ua ikea hou ma ia po iho he mau hiona
hoomalamalama nani lua ole o ua ahi nei me na ahi kohu mau ipukukui hoomalamalama
la i hoonohonoho liilii ia ma o a maanei o ka lua. E ikeiama ke kii mua na homalamalama
ana o ke ahi ma ke po mua. Ma ke kii elua ka a ana o ke ahi iluna o Maunaloa ma ia
kakahiaka nei. Ma ke kii ekolu ka loko ahi hou a me na loko Halemaumau & Kilauea e
pili mau ana a e nana ;ana i ke ahi iluna o Maunaloa. Ma ke kii eha, ka puu pohaku
pahoehoe kahi a Mr. Roback (haole) ke alakai i pii a e huli pahoehoe pele. Ma ke kii
elima kahi a maua i hoomoaha ai i ka huli hoi ana ma no ka Hotele-a ma ke kii hope loa
ka hiona o ka Home Ua-Lehua oiai e a ana oia ahi pele-hoolele hauli-iluna o ka piko
mauna o Maunaloa. Ma ka aoao akau ae o keia kii e ike ai ke ahi hou e nee iho la i kai o
Hilo. Ma ka Hora 10:00 AM o keia la, e haalele ai i ka Home Mauhna nei, no ka huli hou
na aku ma na paia ala o Puna a hiki hou aku ka lai o Hanakahi. Makou nome ka hiaai lua
ole i na hiona hoaloaloha o keia uka.
Left Hilo at 9 AM on Saturday, February 19th; arraved here at 5:30 PM. At 8
o'clock this evening could be seen the brightening of the lava fire [eruption] on top of
Maunaloa and also in the fire lake of Halemaumau-the new fire lake. Feb. 20th: At 8:30
AM made ready to go down to visit the New lake and to explore the new things of the
celebrated home of Madame Pele. Six hours passed in going around the flats of the crater.
Saw again this night athe incomparably beautiful appearances of brightenings of this
place with the fires like lanterns ligahting up and staying a while here and there in the
crater. In the first sketch is the lighting up of the fiares of the first night. In the second
sketch the blazinag of the fire on top of Maunaloa this morning. In the third sketch are the
new fire lake and the lakes of Halemaumau and Kilauea close by, and looking at the
eruption on Maunaloa. The fourth sketch is of the pahoehoe hill, the place where Mr.
Roback (haole), went up to look for lava rock. In the fifth sketch is the place where we
two rested on the return to the Hotel and in the last sketch the appearance of the Home
Ua-Lehua and the blazing of its lava fires-leaping darkly-above the summit of Maunaloa.
On the right side of this sketch can be seen the new fire creeping down towards Hilo. At
10:00 AM of this day we are to leave the Home Mauna ["Mountain Home"] to return by
way of "the fragrant walls of Puna" [poetic allusion to the land of Puna] to arrive again at
"the calm of Hanakahi" [again, a poetic allusion, this time to Hilo]. We are, with
unbounded pleasure in the expressions of aloha of this upland.
Joseph Nawahi, Emma A. Nawahi, Mihana Aii, 21 Feb 1881
Illustrations: Joseph Nawahi drawings, covering a full page
1. Halemaumau from the edge. 2. Mauna Loa, 20 Feb 1881, smoking in the distance on
the NE rift zone. 3. The New Lake, 20 Feb 1881. 4. "Pahoehoe hill" [a tree mold]. Page
355.
Joseph Nawahi drawings,.covering half a page
1. Resting on the way. 2. "Hilo Bay" from Waiakea, Mauna Loa in distance, smoking at
summit, flow approaching Hilo. Feb 1881. Page 356
Went down in the crater yesterday. It was most jolly hot.
Albert Horner, Pahala, 17 April 1881
Arrived at the Volcano House 2 o'clock this afternoon from Puna bound for
Kahuku. Leave tomorrow morning about 4 o'clock. The weather is very fine and the fire
active.
Miss Mary K. Kaina, fifth visit, 17 April 1881
Our party left Hilo at 8 a.m. yesterday, arrived at the Half way house at 12 M and
at this house at 4 p.m., a used up party. It being too late to go to the lake we contented
ourselves with a sulphur bath. This morning we were called at 5 and left the hotel for the
Lake at 6--It was in a magnificent state of fluidity.
The Guide informed us that this Lake has never been named. We had our chaplain
christen it "Pensacola Lake." The party returned from the crater at 9, prepared at once to
leave for Hilo.
A.A. McAlister, U.S. Navy and party from the Pensacola, 23 April 1881
My second visit to the volcano. Stayed one night. Went down to the crater in the
morning, it was a beautiful sight. Leave today for ___. Success to the house.
W.F. McWhirter, Kohala, 26 April 1881
My first visit to the volcano. Went to see the Lake this morning and it was very
active. I have been very kindly treated while I have been here...
W. Stames, Kohala, 26 April 1881
Arrived in company with Mr. Archibald from Arizona--who goes to Mauna Loa.
Am highly interested and entertained with everything. Mr. Lentz and Mr. Roebuck very
kind and obliging in every way, am sorry I cannot stop longer, intend to call again soon.
John Murdock, 29 May 1881
"The fool hath said in his heart, there is no God." If he who can stand on the edge
of the great crater of Kilauea, and view this great natural wonder, and take it not as a
convincing argument of the existence of a god, then is he indeed a fool and there is no
help for him.
James R. Smith, Wailuku, Maui, 11 June 1881
Arrived here from Naalehu in company with Ed. Smith, Deputy Sheriff of Kau
and Abr. D. Simmons. Myself and Mr. Simmons went down into the crater. I G. Pracht
have often heard of Hell. I never thought there was such a thing as Hell and as I think
there are thousands more think the same, but all that do think so, I hope, they will visit
the crater and convince themselves that there is such a place.
Geo. Pracht, 19 June 1881
Arrived here yesterday en route for Kau, and intend starting tomorrow. Visited the
crater this morning and found it not very active. If the "No Hell" agitators were to visit
Kilauea they might become convinced that there was such a place, and in returning from
the crater to the Volcano House it might occur to them that that was nearly Hell. Good
morning.
Malcolm Brown, Hamakua, 1st visit, 26 June 1881
We the undersigned party of eleven including the guide made the descent into the
grand crater of Kilauea on the 19th and made one of the longest and most pleasant trips
that pleasure parties experience. Starting from the Volcano House we went first to the
new lake formed some 13 months ago, remaining there some 3 hours and taking lunch, a
thing the guide said that no other party had done, and at this lake we saw the grandest
sights we ever expect to see. From this liquid molten mass jets arose some 20 ft or more
in the air, seams opened and displayed the fiery mass below, and again large waves
would surge across and break great pieces 30 ft in length and they would go tumbling
into the melted lava below presenting a most beautiful sight. From the new lake we went
to Halemaumau and south lake seeing sights only a little less grand. From here we made
the journey around the crater over the pahoehoe to the extinct crater of Kilauea-iki and
then down again over ground and stones of volcanic formation and up and back again to
the Volcano House lame and tired after a journey of 10 miles on foot.
C.E. Conable and party, 19 July 1881
Left Hilo yesterday at 8:45 a.m., arrived at Volcano House at 6:45 p.m....Good
weather, good road and a good time. Good supper, good sleep, good breakfast, and then a
good view of Kilauea.
We had a fine night view of the crater from the high bluff opposite the house.
There was a flow of lava from the new lake on the night of the 2d and one from
below Halemaumau on the night of the 3d. We leave this morning for Hilo...
Geo. H. Smith, Kohala, Hawaii, 4 Aug 1881
Earth has no other safety valve, in area, immensity or in activity that equals
Kilauea.
M. Hagan, M.D., Saint Paul, Minn., 6 Aug 1881
We the foregoing party having had a rough trip around this Island are fully repaid
all our trouble and hardships experienced by the view witnessed in the crater.
Hugh Center, Kau; David Center, Kahului, Maui; Edwd. Miles, Makawao, 13 Aug 1881
Arrived at Volcano House Aug. 13th 5 p.m. via Punaluu. Visited the crater on the
14th and found it to be what my greatest expectations had anticipated.
Geo. M. Pascoe, Honolulu, 14 Aug 1881
Arrived Aug. 13th 1881. Visited the crater on the 14th, evening of the 14th, and
on the 15th made a general tour of the crater. My expectations were more than realized.
Found Mr. Lentz the manager of the V.H. the most agreeable and entertaining of hosts
that I ever met.
Joseph R. Morrill, Dixon, Lee Co., Ill., 15 Aug 1881
The below-named party visited the New Lake on the evening of the 14th.
We started from the V.H. after sunset and reached the brink of the new South
Crater after a walk of 1 hour and 10 minutes; remained watching this wonderful scene for
3 hours. The return was made possible by a struggling and watery moon and was
accomplished in 1 hour and 30 minutes. The crater was very active, at times presenting a
rim of fiery surf at the base of the bounding cliff about its entire circumference, while
from 20 to 30 fiery fountains threw up their burning jets to the height of 30 or 40 feet, at
the same time drawing into their seething vortices the immense tables of black lava that
kept forming over much of the lake. The scene is incapable of description. It is much
more grand by night than by day.
Jos. R. Morrill, Dixon, Lee Co., Ill., 15 Aug 1881
Left Hilo on the 13th and stopped at Halfway House all night with Mr. Monlow,
arose early 6 a.m. and started for here, got caught in the rain for the whole of the journey
and I am wet thru, the road is in moderate condition but I have traveled better. My new
hat is all spoiled, it cost me by the way 25 Cs in Hilo, and I regret the loss as it was
important for me.
I started Aug. 14th at 6:50 p.m. to see the New Lake in company with Lt. E.M.
Merson, Mr. E.W. Jordan, Alaster Sanderman, J.R. Morrill. The lake was in action, the
lava dashing against the banks like waves of the ocean and in the center of the lake jets of
lava from 20 to 40 feet high could be seen. The scenery is above description. We left the
New Lake at 12:20 a.m. to seek our road back in the dark as we could not get a guide to
go with us.
Aug. 15th. Go to see all the lakes but find the sight not to compare with the
beautiful scenery of last night by midnight.
E.B. Thomas Esq., 15 Aug 1881
We arrived here about noon and found Mr. Lentz on hand to make us
comfortable. After taking a well prepared lunch we went down the crater and found it to
be just a jumping; we felt the edge of the crater shake several times. It would be advisable
for anyone coming to the Volcano House to take a sulphur bath as it is very refreshing.
C. Meinecke, Waiohinu, 17 Aug 1881
Our party of four left Hilo about 7 a.m....arrived at the Volcano House at
5:15...When the last ray of sunlight had disappeared behind the summit of Mauna Loa,
the Goddess Pele introduced a grand pyrotechnic display for our entertainment. Clouds of
smoke hanging over Halemaumau and the new crater were illuminated by the glowing
fire beneath, and exhibited every shade of light from a burning vermillion to the palest
red as the seething mass below varied in the intensity of its brilliancy. And beneath this
overhanging curtain, the playful Goddess was toying with the liquid fire, tossing up great
handfuls and scattering it about in showers of fiery spray. To the right of Halemaumau,
and beyond the lighted clouds, along the course of a new lava flow, small patches of
evanescent flame would dart upward and burn brilliantly for a few moments, and then
slowly dying out, would be succeeded by others equally beautiful, brought forth like their
predecessors to live the same short but "shining" life. Every new outburst and every
varying shade of light seemed to possess fresh charms, and at a late hour, even after our
long ride, we were loth to leave the verandah and retire for the night.
Aug. 21st. At 8 a.m. our two parties--eight in all--piloted by Mr. Roback
descended into the crater. We found the new lake to be very active--unusually so, our
guide told us. Waves of molten matter were surging up, against the wall on all sides of
the lake which is about a quarter of a mile in diameter. Occasionally there would be
seams and "general burstings" in the crust on the surface of the lake, and huge cakes of
the black cooled lava would disappear beneath the waves; and once while we stood on
the brink the whole lake seemed to be on fire and the seething fusion boiled and bubbled
and overspread the whole surface, changing every foot of the area, causing it to present
an entirely different appearance from the moment we first saw it. We next visited
Halemaumau, now an irregular shaped basin surrounded by great cliffs of broken masses
of lava; where the same thing was repeated, but on a much smaller scale. The new flow
that broke out a week or two ago has now ceased moving but is still very hot, and the heat
and sulphur arising from it is suffocating at times.
Leaving old Halemaumau we started to retrace our steps, but first stopped a short
distance from the brink to collect specimens to carry away with us. I doubt if such a large
quantity was ever before taken out of old Kilauea. Eight able-bodied men were
completely loaded down with specimens, some of them weighing fifteen or twenty
pounds. I sincerely hope the party will not be able to repeat the trip tomorrow, for I fear if
they do, that there will be nothing for the next visitors but the red-hot "stuff."
George W. Stewart, California, 20 Aug 1881
Arrived from Hilo on Sunday Aug. 21st, being our first visit to the crater. Were
very much impressed by the activity of the volcano, which we were fortunate to observe
both at day and night.
__________ Hackfeld, Honolulu, 23 Aug 1881
Descended into the crater this morning and one of us, who had seen the crater
about six months ago, noticed some interesting changes, particularly in the "New Lake"
which has diminished in size nearly one third it was then. The diminution has been
effected by the bank the lava is forming at the north part of the lake. But its activity (if we
may be allowed to form an opinion from our hours observation on each occasion) has
decidedly increased. While observing it today, the whole lake, at one time, became a
series of deep crimson fountains leaping up into the air at least twenty feet and throwing
up sprays fully ten feet higher. The sight was not easily to be forgotten. Visitors to the
lake should not begrudge an hour's heating in waiting for a similar display.
"Halemaumau" I saw for the first time and as we stood gazing at it from an eminence, at
some distance, surrounded by its high, bold, and irregular cliffs it presented a strange,
picturesque appearance, and recalled to one of us, a picturesque lake in New Zealand,
only in this case the fluid was of a deep crimson color and showed here and there boiling
fountains. To the southeast of the "South Lake" was a stream of molten lava flowing
northwards on the floor of the crater and at one point formed quite a fall divided into two
halves by a projecting mass of old lava thus resembling in form the Rainbow Falls Hilo.
H. Wineberg, M.D., Waiohinu, Kau; Edwd. Smith, Deputy Sheriff, Kau, 27 Aug 1881
While I am on my way from Australia to England and spending a month on these
islands, I have stayed here 4 days and seen the volcano three times, twice by daylight and
one by night--its appearance exceeds in grandeur my great expectations. Having exposed
over 30 of Kennet Gelatine Dry Plates (Photographic) which are still undeveloped, I hope
that I am carrying with me some permanent illustrations of the peculiar and wonderful
scenery and of the present condition of the volcano and crater. To Mr. Lentz I am greatly
indebted for the comfort...
Frederic Bonney, Australia, 8 Sept 1881
This party accompanied by Miss May Severance, visited the New Lake at night
and found the sight indescribably fine.
J.F. Brown, G.H. Barton, W.W. Wall, Govt. Survey, 12 Sept 1881
Left Hilo 6:40 a.m. 19th arrived 7 p.m. 1 1/2 hours rest at Halfway House.
Slightly damp on arriving. Agreeably surprised at the accommodation. Roused at 2 a.m.
and were fortunate in seeing a magnificent flow of lava--probably from the South Lake
skirting the S.E. side of the Pali for nearly 3/4 mile.
Breakfast at 8. Started for crater at 9:30. Visited the New Lake and four others as well as
some running lava. Returned at 2 p.m. Started again at 5 p.m. for New Lake at the edge
of which we remained for two hours, during which at one time the lake was almost over
the whole surface in a boiling state, fragments of the sides falling in occasionally. A
rough wall of lava 3 feet high and 8 feet long which we piled up on the edge of the cliff
gave us good shelter from a driving Scotch mist. Got back in one hour, very dark and
misty. Leave at 6 a.m. tomorrow.
Lieut. J.E. Goodrich, Lieut. F.J. Fleet, Paymaster R.S. Chandler, HMS Gannet, 20 Sept
1881
With thanks for all kindness received.
Paul Genberg, 21 Sept 1881
Arrived here again with Mrs. Genberg and my children...the 22nd of March 1896,
and left on the 23rd. Weather was fine. Crater was not active, saw fire about 400 feet
deep, once in a while. Most of the time only smoke, All enjoyed ourselves...
Left Hilo 22nd 6:45 a.m., reached here 4:15 p.m. Visited Kilauea iki in forenoon,
remained at latter till 7 p.m., a very dark and clear fine night. Crater very active, a
splendid sight; all much pleased with the attention shown by Mr. Lentz.
Com. Banetle, Lt. Harold, Dr. Williams, HMS Gannet, 23 Sept 1881
Have just arrived from Hilo after a very pleasant ride. Bound for a hill on Mauna
Loa to erect a signal. G. Robeck for guide.
Geo. H. Barton, Govt. Survey, Sudbury, Mass., 26 Sept 1881
Left Kapapala Sept. 30th 9:50 a.m. arrived at the Volcano House at 12 p.m., visit
the crater Oct. 1st and was pleased to see Mrs. Pele working, leaving Oct. 2nd 7 a.m. for
Kapapala.
Sam Ehrlich, Honolulu, 2 Oct 1881
My third visit to the volcano. Went down the crater yesterday and found the new
lake most active. Thanks to Mr. Lentz my stay has been most pleasant.
signature illegible, 24 Oct 1881
I arrived at the Volcano House last evening, in company with Mr. Lidgate and my
nephew, Mr. Harold Jackson. We saw the bright flow from two lakes and during the night
a flow of lava was seen far off to the right of the South Lake. This morning we descended
about nine o'clock and reached the new lake in about an hour. This lake was very active.
The bottom edges of the surrounding rocks were red hot and the surface of the lake was
always in commotion at some place. I counted nine cauldrons at once where the lava was
boiling and splashing--a perfect blood-red--throwing great flakes perhaps twenty feet
high. Often the black surface would show a red seam a tenth across the lake where the
fire would ooze out, until the surface or scum was gradually sucked in and the whole
place where it went down became a boiling cauldron. We then went to Halemaumau but
that was not as accessible; it seemed to have more jets than the New Lake. We went
further to the right and came to a pit of fire. This was hard on the surface but red in the
crevices. It was on a level with the general floor of the crater--and in several places we
could see jets of fire shooting up from our own level. The heat was very great--and this
new flow covered a considerable area. The broken cliffs surrounding chiefly the south
lake seem to have been recently upheaved--and it appears almost as though the molten
lava was extending around all these cliffs--and might engulf them. The outline of rock is
evidently undergoing constant changes.
Theo. H. Davies, 25 Oct 1881
An immense "cave" of the "Pali" on west side of crater took place at 9 a.m. this
day.
Lentz, 21 Dec 1881
The 5th New Year's day here and the dullest of the lot.
Wm. H. Lentz, 1882
Arrived on Saturday night 14th at 11 o'clock after a long and tedious ride of about
14 hours from Hilo under the direction of our faithful guide John Maa. In the morning
Ther. at 50. Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea in full view, but draped with snow white
mantles....Now I consider myself highly privileged to exhibit to my friends from
Minnesota, the greatest "wonder" of our globe! It has been my privilege to view Niagara,
Vesuvius, and many other of the great natural "wonders" of our globe, but the Crater of
Kilauea I consider standing at the head of the list.
P.S. We visited the crater on Monday and by following Mr. Lentz' suggestion to
wait and not hurry away, we had a grand view of the breaking up of the entire lake, and
feel richly rewarded for our visit.
Saml. C. Damon, 16 Jan 1882
Left Honuapo, Kau, 28th. Arrived today at 11:30 a.m. Have since had the pleasure
(?) of seeing the crater by day and by night--by day it was rather suggestive and by night
a little too-too.
G.S. Patten, Yarmouth, Nova Scotia, 29 Jan 1882
Holy Moses and the angels cast thy pitying glances down
And thou dear Mr. Lentz put a good soft poultice on
And may I with fools and dunces ever paddle
If I e'er again attempt a "Kanaka" horse to straddle.
signature illegible and no date
We visited the crater today under the care of that efficient guide Mr. Roebuck.
The crater was and is in a circular shape and the volcano was quite active. We also visited
Kilawe Kea, that crater is seldom visited and that is the reason we visited it. It was at
home and glad to see us. It is a pretty ruff trip and the next time we go to the volcano we
will stay in Oakland, Alameda Co., California.
no signature, 19 Feb 1882
In the above entry, someone pencilled in, above "Kilawe Kea," the words
Kilauea Iki
I visited the volcano 21st Feb. 1882 and found it very active.
Alfred Parmenter, London, 21 Feb 1882
My sixth school inspecting tour around the Island of Hawaii, and my fourth
inspection visit to the School of Madam Pele. This institution is in a very flourishing
condition, notwithstanding the fact that it is not under the control of the Board of
Education, and that it does not in any way receive Government patronage. The inspection
took place last night. The pupils are bright and active....
D.D. Baldwin, Inspector of Schools, Honolulu, 28 Feb 1882
Had a most enjoyable visit here from Saturday 4th to Tuesday 7th...The road (?)
from Hilo is not one we can recommend to travellers either for riding or walking. The
lakes were in fine order for visiting, and we saw them break up by day and night.
Rupell D. Walker, T.D. Walker, Southgate, Middlesex, England, 7 March 1882
Visited the new crater. Surprised greatly to find that the crater as described by
Ellis as 800 feet deep has been filled up and that the new one formed on the S.E. now
only 40 to 50 ft from the top of surrounding rock has been 1000 ft and is apparently still
rising. During the time we were there (two hours and a half) we were delighted by the
magnificent sight of one addition being added to its height. It commenced immediately
below the summit of the precipice on which we stood. At first not much larger than a
whale (to which monster in its death struggles it bore a resemblance) it emitted large jets
many feet high of lava much the color of arterial blood--but very soon it enlarged at both
ends extending across the lake--wave after wave apparently receiving its force from the
same spot--soon covered the whole lake with another addition of new lava giving us in
doing so a grand idea as to the formation of the vast field of lava we traversed on our way
to the lake. Altogether a brilliant sight and not to be forgotten. I have given this
description as I think everyone visiting here should note accurately his observations.
signature unclear, 30 March 1882
...A tramp through Kilauea well repaid the trouble. In addition to the usual
attractions a rainbow hung in the crater with its ends resting on lava mounds. The trip
was enjoyed much more than than on the 17th July last, there being no rain to interrupt
the view.
Will Carson, 4 April 1882
We have looked upon the crimson sea.
Pleasant remembrance of the volcano.
Wm. H. Woodwell, 19 April 1882
Walked from Hilo, 11 1/2 hours. Found these very comfortable quarters. Go right
on, Volcano, restless child of Nature, you're doing first rate, don't mind the trouble,
Father Time will someday overtake you as he has your betters, then adieu. The stoking
for your small cauldron of 5 or 6 acres did you infinite credit today when I saw the whole
surface renewed in an hour and a quarter, though a little too much smoke prevented me
going further. Tonight you're if anything, really, quite, almost too all but gorgeously
magnificent, with your far spreading lurid glare. Give my love to your mother Loa, the
old girl seems about played out.
J. Betton Taylor, Wollescote House, England, 7,8,9 May
Arrived at 9 a.m. Spent seven hours in the crater. Lakes both active. Loaded
myself down with specimens. Discovered in mine host an old Baltimorean. Depart at 8
a.m. May 12th tired but well satisfied.
Edward D. Sweeny, Baltimore, Md., 11 May 1882
Our party of seven arrived here on Friday the 19th day of May and leave this
morning the 22nd. We have had a successful trip, have been fortunate in fine weather,
have seen the volcano active and splendid, and thanks to Mr. Lentz we have all been very
comfortable.
Valdemar Knudsen and six Knudsens, Waiawa, Kauai, 22 May 1882
We have visited the new lake--witnessed three active eruptions, one by daylight
and two by night. Next to our wonder at, and admiration of the terrific phenomena, we
must record our amazement at the temerity of the many excellent people who have
endeavoured to describe the wonders of the crater in this book.
For our host Lentz we all agree that he is a jolly good fellow and the right man in
the right place.
C.C. Macfarlane, San Francisco, 24 May 1882
The above party of 6 visited the New Lake and Halemaumau, and found both
active. We are well pleased with our visit, and thank Mr. Lentz for his many kindnesses.
"So say we all."
Three of us visited Kilauea Iki--it is only a short and easy walk from the hotel,
and is well worth seeing.
Thos. G. Smith & wife, Onomea Plantation, 30 May 1882
5th visit to the volcano.. Arrived here from Kau on the 12th inst. We found the
two lakes (New Lake and Halemaumau) very active. In the former the lava slowly rising-it was yesterday within 30 or 40 feet of the ledge where we stood. Probably a flow will
take place before long. We were favored in seeing the lakes "break up" several times....
Frank Williams Damon, 14 July 1882
I reached this place July 8th from Naalehu. After six days of observation in the
vicinity I venture to make the following entry of such thoughts as have thus far occurred
to me--promising however that such conclusions as may be here expressed are only
preliminary and are liable to subsequent modification.
The great depression included within the circuit of high walls in usually termed in
strict or technical language a caldera. It contains at present two active craters of which the
larger and more vigorous one just now is Halemaumau and the other is the so-called "new
lake." The caldera appears to be similar in its nature to the celebrated Val del Bove on
Aetna and to the great caldera at Madeira and to those now existing in the volcanoes of
Central America and in the island of Java. It has probably been produced by the sinking
or subsidence of its platform. I infer that originally one unbroken platform descended
across its locus with a very gentle slope from the summit overlooking Kilauea-iki
westward to the slope of Mauna Loa. Beneath it was a large mass of lava which found
vent at some distant point situated at a lower level and drained off--the superincumbent
rocks sinking into the cavity thus produced. I find no indication that lava has ever
overflowed the crests of the higher cliffs from these craters. For the lavas in the cliffs
appear to be of very ancient origin--older than the caldera--and they have so far as can be
determined flowed from a vent (or vents) situated to the east of the caldera. This is
clearly indicated by the fields of pahoehoe--especially those south of Kilauea. The
direction of their flowing is distinctly indicated and they certainly came from a point east
of the present craters.
It is not probable that the caldera in its full extent was formed suddenly. I should
rather suppose that it had been formed gradually, beginning as a pit no larger than
(perhaps smaller than) Kilauea-iki and gradually enlarging all around its circumference
by the successive dropping and sinking of portions of the surrounding wall--here a little,
there a little--more in some places than in others. This process of enlargement is indicated
by the appearance of the walls from the north and west sides especially. The "faults" by
which the successive slices of walls are detached are well presented to view in numerous
places, and the ledges produced by the partially sunken portion are very obvious. Mr.
Lentz refers to the descent of a portion of the north wall under date of Dec. 21, 1881 (see
page 406). The emission of steam and sulphurous vapors immediately west of the
Volcano House and the heated condition of the ground suggests the possibility of a future
sinking of that tract. Indeed it has already sunk nearly a hundred feet.
There is an impression upon the minds of many people that in some way a
connection exists between the craters of Kilauea and those of Mauna Loa. It is not easy to
understand what is meant by this supposed connection. If it is meant that the lava
reservoirs of the two localities are really one and the same, or are connected by a
subterranean conduit, the idea seems inadmissible and in violation of the simplest and
best known of hydrostatic laws. If such a connection were suddenly established the
Kilauea craters would immediately drain the reservoir of Loa down to their own level,
just as the Sutro tunnel drained the Comstock mines. If the word "connection" means that
the same cause acts upon both and produces eruptions from both, it becomes more
intelligible. Such a connection, however, would be proven only by careful and systematic
observation kept up during many years. Judging from the rather meager records of past
eruptions it appears that disturbances in the craters of Kilauea have in some cases been
accompanied by great excitement in Mokuaweoweo. This would seem to show that the
cause which sets the one in motion actuates at the same time the other. On the other hand,
and more frequently, only one set of craters is disturbed at any one time. This would go
to show that the actuating cause generally disturbs the one only, though sometimes it
affects both simultaneously.
The coexistence of two such vents less than 20 miles apart, but one of them
opening 9500 feet above the other is a very striking fact leading to some important
inferences.
1st. It is a physical impossibility--that both sets of craters can draw their lavas
from the same reservoir, or that the two reservoirs can be connected by one or more
conduits. Kilauea is one volcano, and Mauna Loa another, In this sense they are distinct
and independent, as much so as Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea.
2d. It is the most forcible illustration to be found in the world of the general
inference that volcanoes do not draw their lavas from an universal and all liquid interior
of the earth, but that each volcano has its own independent reservoir of limited or even
small extent and entirely disconnected from the reservoirs of other volcanoes even though
other volcanoes may be closely adjacent. This same inference is supported by every
volcanic region in the world which contains two or more vents in close or moderate
proximity to each other. But right here under our very eyes is the most conspicuous
illustration of it.
Further evidence of the independence of or disconnection of Loa and Kilauea may
be formed in the distinct characters of the respective lavas. Those from Loa contain an
extraordinary amount of olivine (silica of alumina and magnesia). Those from Kilauea
contain but little of that mineral. The quantity of magnetic oxide of iron and of limefeldspar is greater in the Kilauea than on the Loa lavas. The density of the Kilauea lavas
also appears to be somewhat greater--in consequence, no doubt, of the higher percentage
of iron.
I have been much interested in watching the action of the lava in the two burning
lakes. The phenomenon of a periodical breakout is I think readily explained. The lava is
kept liquid by the continuous rise of internal hot steam and other vapors from great
depths. Under the enormous pressure prevailing at great depths--say several thousand
feet--the steam becomes probably white hot and as its "specific heat" or "capacity for
heat" is very great it brings with it very great quantities of heat--sufficient to keep the
whole column of lava in fusion. It also brings up currents of hotter lava from below while
the lava which has been cooled at the surface descends to be remelted, but the quantity of
the fresh lava and the heat of the steam thus brought up is insufficient to keep the surface
from cooling and forming a semisolid or viscous crust. The crust therefore forms and its
temperature falls. The radiation or loss of heat for a time is thereby greatly diminished,
and the lava below the crust gains more heat than it loses, and thus grows hotter.
Meantime the crust thickens and grows cooler, As it cools its specific gravity increases.
As the lava beneath heats up, its specific gravity diminishes, and the ebullition grows
more violent. At length the difference in the specific gravities of the crust above and the
hot lava below becomes so great that the crust can no longer be sustained. Wherever the
ebullition is most violent, there a large breach in the crust is made and it begins to sink.
The breakup rapidly extends and in a few minutes the whole crust has gone down. And
now for a time the loss of heat by radiation is greater than the accession of heat from
below. The descent of the cold crust cools the lava like pieces of ice dropped into warm
water. The ebullition diminishes. Soon, however, a new crust forms, checking the
radiation and the process repeats itself.
The great problem connected with volcanic action is:--what is the source or cause
of the heat? It is a heat problem. As yet science cannot satisfactorily answer the question.
There is no mystery more profound. Should we ever be able to say with confidence how
volcanic heat is produced we should possess the key to the mystery of volcanism and the
solution of subsidiary problems would soon follow.
C.E. Dutton, U.S. Ordnance Corps, Detailed to U.S. Geological Survey, 14 July 1882
Arrived at the Volcano House 9 days ago. Since then have seen the principal
sights, have made six descents into the crater, twice at night. I highly recommend the
guide Kalahea for night trips. I will start today for the summit Maunaloa in comp. with
Capt. Dutton, bringing with me kind remembrance of Mr. Lentz who has been
exceedingly kind,
W.A. Coulter, artist, San Francisco, 17 July 1882
Have been something of a traveler, have seen nearly the whole civilized world, as
well as a portion of the uncivilized, and must say that I have never seen a place "unto the
like of this." It is indeed food for thought whether from the scientific or philosophic point
of view. Wonderful thoughts take possession of the mind, and one realizes--if he never
did before--the insignificance of man, his life and all his doings. It makes not a particle of
difference to Nature whether man exists or not. Modern science teaches that this globe
existed ages before the human race and will probably continue to exist long after our race
has disappeared from the surface of the earth.
Modern astronomy and geology teach us that there has been a time when the earth was
too hot to support life, so there will come a time when it will be too cold to allow of any
life; as not only the volcanic forces will have died out, but the sun's heat will also become
extinct. Geologically speaking, the time must come when the atmosphere and the water
will be absorbed into the body of the planet and the earth will be in some such condition
as the moon is now.
The volcanic problem is not only important from a geological, but also from an
astronomical point of view, in connection with the study of our sun and moon, and it is to
be regretted that science has not yet solved this problem.
Wm. Hidden Webb, New York City, 18 July 1882
Mauna Loa smoking.
Lentz, 6-19-82
Arrived at half past six Thursday eve. We are on our tour of this island. Volcano
very bright during the evening....
Henry T. Tayor, Pahala, Kau, 21 July 1882
Visited New Lake--level of melted lava 25 to 30 feet higher than it was 24th May
'82.
A. Macdonald Sproull, 23 July 1882
On the 18th of July I left the Volcano House with my little party and pack train
and after stopping a few minutes at Ohaikia proceeded to Ainapo. The next day I left
Ainapo moving in a northeasterly direction for the purpose of visiting the source of the
great eruption of 1881. We made camp about nine miles from Ainapo near the Kau
branch of the 1881 flow and at the upper limit of vegetation (about 7100 feet). The next
morning we began the ascent. The journey was long and in several places rather severe
since it was necessary to cross several streams of aa. But the route was selected with
admirable judgement by my guide (Ahuai--a native of Kapapala) & the difficulties of this
kind were reduced to a minimum. At 11 o'clock we reached a point near our destination
and leaving the animals proceeded on foot about 3/4 of a mile carrying the photographic
apparatus. The Hilo flow is quite distinct from the Kau flow as they plainly came from
separate fissures and orifices. Mauna Loa sends off its principal spur to the northeastward
and at the time of the eruption several fissures were opened parallel to the course of this
main spur. One of them ran upon the northern side of the spur and gave vent to the Hilo
flow. Another opened upon the southern side of the spur and disgorged the Kau. Both are
near the "divide" and only a quarter of a mile apart. At several points the two flows
become confluent though in general they are well separated and nowhere more decidedly
than at their respective orifices. The Hilo stream appears to have been supplied by
several--perhaps many orifices along the line of its _____ fissure. Some of the vents are
still fretful and one especially is quite demonstrative, sending out puffs and jets of steam
with long and rather irregular pulsations. At another vent we found a small stream of lava
which must have been ejected only a very few days before our visit as it was still hot and
smoking and quite unsafe to tread upon. This stream is about 3/4 of a mile long and 150
to 250 yards wide and very thin. The appearance of the lava is quite unusual. It is a kind
of volcanic glass (hyalomelan) very porous & vesicular & resembles a ___ the lava which
is formed about two miles from the house on the "neck" which separates Kilauea-iki from
Kilauea:--but as is generally the case with lavas from Mauna Loa it is of a different
chemical constitution evidently.
We returned to camp by the same route by which we ascended. The day following
we reached Ainapo. On the 24th we ascended to the summit of Mauna Loa. The route
selected was an easy one though the journey was very long. The ascent of Mauna Loa if
the proper route be selected is an exceedingly easy feat of mountaineering.
Mokuaweoweo was very quiet. It is a much more impressive caldera than Kilauea
being nearly twice as deep and the surrounding cliffs are much more abrupt. At only one
point was a descent into the caldera practicable and there it is not difficult.
This caldera like Kilauea appears to be a recent development in the history of the
great mountain and most probably it was formed in the same manner as Kilauea--i.e., by
the draining of some reservoir beneath its floor and the escape of lava through some
orifice upon the flank of the mountain. The entire summit of the mountain has been the
theatre of many eruptions many of which occurred before the caldera was formed. The
oldest of them appear to have taken place at a very recent epoch.
One remarkable feature of the eruptions of Mauna Loa (and of Kilauea as well) is
the almost entire absence of cinder cones. In all other volcanoes such cones are almost
invariably formed during the progress of the eruption and during its closing stages.
Although the distinct eruptions which have built up the mass of Mauna Loa must have
numbered many thousands one can almost count upon his fingers the cinder cones now
standing, and of these the largest is contemptible in size. Ordinarily the close of the
eruption is the period of cone-building. But upon Mauna Loa the last lava outpoured in
any eruption congeals as it stops and leaves no such monument.
Another matter which has attracted my attention is the fact that in all those
eruptions which I have thus far examined in this mountain came from fissures which
radiate from the summit and none yet seen by me appear to have a transverse direction.
Hastily, C.E. Dutton
C.E. Dutton, Capt. U.S.A., U.S. Geol. Survey, July 1882
I rode from V.H. door to "New Lake", Halemaumau & back.
Wm. H. Lentz, 4 Aug 1882
I put this in to try pin down the date of Dutton's entry.
Arrived at the Volcano House on Aug. 3rd '82, had a splendid view of
Halemaumau and the new lake, our most sanguine expectations being fulfilled. We have
found Mr. Lentz a genial fellow and wish to add our testimonial to his worth as a host.
Leave for Hilo in the morning of the 6th Aug. '82.
C. Bolte Jr., Honolulu, 5 Aug 1882
Left Hilo 6 o'clock a.m. Arrived at the Volcano House at 1 p.m. (What they call a
fast time for a stranger.) Visited the volcano same afternoon, had a pleasant trip. The
volcano pretty active. And everything was pleasant...
Edward Moss Carpenter, North Kohala, Hawaii, 11 Aug 1882
Quite illegible--ends up with something about generations yet unborn will fail to solve
the great problem.
D.H. Covert, M.D., 29 Aug 1882
This my second visit to the Volcano House and to the Crater Kilauea has been
very pleasant and interesting indeed, as both craters have been very active.
And I must say that the manager, Mr. Lentz, has been gentlemanly and untiring in
his exertions to make everything pleasant and comfortable.
J.H. Black, 1 Sept 1882
Saw the crater Sept. 11 '82. Vastly different from preconceived notions but was
not disappointed. Reserve impressions, observations, and description for a
communication to the "Call". The sight is well worth the trip.
C.M. White, 11 Sept 1882
Revisiting this place for the third time I find some slight changes in the craters.
Halemaumau alone has maintained its former condition. The new lake has enlarged
towards the southeast and two small "islands" have formed in it. The amount of boiling
and movement in the lava has diminished and the periods are rather longer between the
breakups. But when the break-ups occur they are more impressive and rapid. The old
South Lake has reopened to some extent and has outpoured a little lava.
Since the last visit here I have been upon Mauna Kea, Kohala mountain and
Hualalai. All of these present a strong contrast to Mauna Loa and Kilauea. The volcanic
action upon these masses has been more nearly in consonance with the volcanic piles in
other parts of the world. One very striking feature of Mauna Loa is the great scarcity of
cinder cones and the insignificant size of those which do occur. Upon the other three
mountains are very many normal cinder cones and some of grand proportions. This is
especially the case upon Mauna Kea. It seems to me that the remarkably flat profile of
Mauna Loa may in great part at least be traced to the absence of such fragmental products
of eruption. All of the matter extravasated from its many vents being highly liquid lava it
flows far away from the vent and distributes itself over great distances from and around
the lofty orifices from which it issues. But the fragmental products blown out of the many
vents of Mauna Kea pile up in the immediate neighborhood of the orifices and are not so
widely distributed. The same is essentially true of Hualalai.
Very noble and majestic is Mauna Kea. The most satisfactory views of it may be
obtained from the interspace between it and Mauna Loa--For example at May's (?) ranch
at Kalaieha. From the same point may be obtained one of the best views of Mauna Loa.
From this point the ascent of Mauna Kea is very easy. A good mule can be ridden to the
base of the summit cone and the distance is not great. Whoever may undertake that
journey will not fail to admire the graceful forms of the large cinder cones which throng
the flanks of that mountain and will often pause to wonder at the vast proportions of
Mauna Loa and the great number of lava streams which streak its mighty flanks. All of
the more recent flows are clearly revealed and easily distinguished, Far surpassing all
others in the volume of lava extravasated in the flow of 1855. Although an accurate
estimate of the quantity of material in that eruption is scarcely practicable yet I think it
safe to say that it was at least ten times greater than that poured out in 1881. It was no
doubt one of the grandest--perhaps the grandest eruption of which there is any record in
any part of the world; though one of the eruptions of the Skaptar Jokull in Iceland may
equal or possibly surpass it.
From the same standpoints may be seen the eruption of 1859 which entered the
sea about 12 miles south of Kawaihae. It appears from a distant view to be somewhat
inferior in magnitude to that of 1881. Very distinct also is the portion of the 1881 flow
which descended toward Kalaieha. This part of the eruption broke out near the summit
and ceased to run when the main flow toward Hilo broke out. Thus the outbreak of last
year gave rise to three independent streams--the Kalaieha, the Kau (which is visible from
here) and the Hilo streams. Many other flows of which there is no historic record but
which are no doubt very recent may be seen upon the northern slopes of Mauna Loa.
They are if possible still more abundant upon the southwestern flank of the mountain.
Between Kona--Kau Kahuku are very many great floods of extremely recent lava
streaming from points far up the mountain and reaching to the sea. But history is silent as
to their times and modes of activity.
C.E. Dutton, 12 Sept 1882
The largest flow of lava that has been here at Kilauea for years took place this day
at 10:20 a.m., the only effect seemingly on the lakes was to lower their level about 10 feet
in each.
Wm. H. Lentz, 12 Sept 1882
The Lakes remind me of a boiling cauldron of molten iron as seen in a large
retort. It is a strange sight and when looking at it my thoughts were turned to solve the
cause. It is a well known fact that the deeper man penetrates into the bowels of this Earth
the greater the degrees of heat are. The Comstock mines of Nevada are 3000 feet deep
and yet the metals are not melted. And how many feet are these lakes in this volcano.
That is one of the questions for science to solve. The Lakes were very active today. So
sometimes they would show signs of a dormant state and then in a few minutes it would
break out into a boiling seething mass of molten lava.
J.H. Burnett, M.E., New York City, 17 Sept, 1882
Arrived here about 1 p.m. after a long and tedious ride, what I found to be jets of
liquid lava thrown up, I mistook for flames of fire on first coming within sight of the
same, for on the road leading here, there is something awe inspiring in the view of the
boiling lake and it is a sight well worth the time and difficulties attending the trip and it is
unquestionably one of the wonders of the world as well as one of its mysteries. The
recent flow has not yet cooled, the hot lava being visible through the crevases a few feet
below the surface and the lake itself is very active; while viewing and wondering at the
magnificent sight I saw quite a large landslip break down and descend below the surface
causing a motion of a vast extent of the liquid mass. The ebullition of the boiling mass
sent up sounds resembling the waves of the sea when they break on the shore. I found the
volcano more extensive than I anticipated. This is my first visit and it is with regret that I
am compelled to leave in the morning.
Robert Hall, Kohala, 28 Sept 1882
Arrived from Hilo on the 2nd, enjoyed a pleasant ride with good company.
Volcano very active. Surrounding country brilliantly lighted by fiery vapour. Left for
Hilo on morning of the 4th thoroughly pleased with everything, from mine host &c &c.
F.S. Kay, Kukuihaele, Hamakua, 4 Oct 1882
Arrived at the Volcano House the 11. Went down in the crater and saw all was to
be seen. Had a fine time.
George McLain, Hilo, 10 Oct 1882
This is my second visit to the volcano. Made two visits to the lakes, found many
changes. The lava was still flowing from New Lake. Made a sketch of the flow and one
of the crater from the Kau side showing fire in the crater, and one of the sulphur banks,
those make the seventh sketch I have made in oil....
W.A. Coulter, Artist, San Francisco, 17 Oct 1882
At first I thought
These islets in the sea
Were crumbs of bliss let down from Heaven
But now of lava wrought I see
They're loaves from out of the devil's oven.
O.P. Nichols, 22 Oct 1882
On the morning of the 13th the New Lake was in a state of unusual activity.
Edmund R. Boyle, London, England, 11-14 Nov 1882
Our party arrived Monday Nov. 13th...Volcano not as active as previous visits.
The two children went to the floor of the crater and had an eruption all to themselves in
the shape of two bunches of firecrackers--perhaps the first instance on record of imported
explosives in the realms of Pele....
Wm. B. Oleson & family, 16 Nov 1882
Have just come up from the crater, was rather disappointed at first, but after
waiting some time was rewarded by seeing the crust break up....
Chas. E. Perry, Gloucestershire, England, 19 Nov 1882
Arrived from Hilo at 6 p.m. on Friday last Nov. 23 after a toilsome journey of 10
hours. Had it wet from half-way house. Visited volcano on Friday. Was at first
disappointed, but guide said "wait!" This I did and witnessed in 4 hours 3 grand
eruptions, feeling amply repaid by the sight of these, for all my fatigue. Found in Mr.
Lentz--what one does not often find--the right man in the right place. Leave at 7:30
today.
Robert Walker Jr., Woodside, Leicester, England, 26 Nov 1882
...Visited the New Lake this morning and were amply repaid for our trouble
coming here by the grand sight to be seen. Went last night along the road to Kau to see
the workings of the lake by night, and the upheavings of immense boulders of white hot
lava was a grand sight to be seen....
John Goetzee & wife, Onomea Plant., Hilo, 2 Dec 1882
...The volcano was very active last evening, "Pele" showing her regrets for several
late untoward events, one in particular the demise of the much lamented Father Coan,
whom she bewailed in a mournful but grand manner, one worthy of a queen.
The sulphur banks are well worth a visit but the view of the crater is beyond
description and without a minute survey no person could be competent to give the
smallest description....
signature illegible, Louisiana, 6 Dec 1882
This is my second visit to Kilauea. I know now there is a Hecla, a Vesuvius, a
Stromboli, and Etna, but I also know that with all their capacity for infernal display, they
cannot equal "Mother Pele"....
J.R. Smith, 6 Dec 1882
...After lunch to which we all did full justice, we started for the crater which
surpassed our imagination, and we agreed that to realize it a person must see it....
Jeannette Shaw, San Jose, Cal., 10 Dec 1882
...An attempt to do justice to grand old "Kilauea" would be to attempt to paint the
sunbeams....
Dr. W. Hammond, San Francisco, 10 Dec 1882
...We were most fortunate in the weather which was bright and clear and the walk
to the South Lake over the crisp lava for easier than a similar experience at Vesuvius. The
lake was tranquil on our arrival, only a little bubbling at the N. end betokening the forces
at work beneath. Soon however a dull rumbling sound, proceeding apparently from the
neighborhood of the two islands at the SW end was followed by the opening of blood-red
fountains at the S. extremity, and a seething wave gradually spread along the edges of the
lake till piece by piece the old crust broke up and was submerged in the new boiling
upflow. At a lower level we saw the glowing lava current--a veritable Stygian stream
flow in at great rate through an arched tunnel--an awful and never-to-be-forgotten sight.
We then retraced our steps in search of specimens. The next day, which was to have been
devoted to Kilauea-iki and the neighborhood, we were compelled to spend indoors, no
great hardship. The mountain Goddess gave us a taste of her temper and for 24 hours
poured out the vials of her wrath upon us. I thought I had seen storms on the West Coast
of Scotland, but they were tempests in a teacup compared to those initiated by Pele. The
weather cleared up for our departure on the 12th ...
Charles Bill, Staffordshire, England, 9-12 Dec 1882
...Visited the New Lake and found it very active....
W.J. Yates, South Kona, 24 Dec 1882
Many a Man visits this Place and doughtless sees his future home unless he
changes for the best seeks Pardon at his Makers Throne.
Peter Piper of Walltown N.J., 24 Dec 1882
I shall always recall with pleasure the Christmas spent within the range of sulphur
fumes of the volcano. So many have written up the subject that the supply of adjectives
has been exhausted. I need only say that it is not even equalled by "Barnum's Greatest
Show on Earth" but candor compels me to insinuate that although Kilauea is great I am
confident that Haleakala is a crater.
A. Hood, Nova Scotia, 25 Dec 1882
My second visit to the volcano. After spending a few hours in the crater last night,
I conclude that Madame Pele and I were not as active as when I made my last call upon
Her Highness eighteen years ago.
Mrs. Kinney & party would strongly advise tourists to visit the extinct crater of
Kilauea Iki about a mile and a half from the Volcano House.
C.D. Kinney, Honolulu, 20-28 Jan 1883
The crater of Kilauea the future home of missionaries.
W.H. Jennings, San Francisco, 30 Jan 1883
Someone wrote in pencil after the word "missionaries" in the above entry:
slanderers & green-eyed people, who judge by themselves!
From Hilo through groves of Paradise to the Door of Hell.
Mrs. L.A. Jennings, San Francisco, 30 Jan 1883
From Honolulu via Hilo and Puna in company with Prof. C.H. Hitchcock. Twelfth
visit.
Feb. 9. Visited the crater and had a fine view of the new lake in action.
Feb. 20. Have spent a week in Kau and returned yesterday--Bound for Hilo today.
Find more action in the crater than there was a week ago....
A.O. Forbes, 8 Feb 1883
...Standing in front of this house viewing this cauldron of foaming fire how varied
are the thoughts which come over one. Has Denton with his spiritualism seen it? Has
Ingersol with his tirade on our Bible seen it? Have the crowds of priests, parsons,
Methodist ranters & others seen it? Have the murderers--drunkards--stock gamblers-poker players--& other sharps of California & other places seen it? If so it seems to one
that the sum of one's thoughts must be to them as it is to me--the grandest thought of all-"Be still & know that I am God." ...
Wm. Reynold, San Frisco, Cal. & Leicester, Engl., 17/20 Feb 1883
To whom it may concern and be of interest to read these few lines I be to say that
in company with Mr. Edward Smith I left Waiohinu Friday Feb. 23rd at 7:30 a.m. and
arrived at the Volcano House 7:30 p.m. same day, having had a grand view of the
burning lake same evening from the ridge which was the grandest sight I ever saw in my
life.
After partaking of supper and a good night's rest took a sulphur steam bath.
Breakfast and at 8:30 a.m. in company with several other gentlemen and preceded by a
Kanaka guide we wended our way toward the crater and found it very active. The sight
was perfectly grand beyond description and after watching the different formations of the
burning lava, we returned to the Volcano House, partook of another sulphur steam bath
and dinner, after meeting Mr. Severance the Hawaiian consel at S.F. and his friend we
took our leave and started on the rough road towards Honuapo. The grand scenery which
is beyond human description will ever remind me of the grand lesson we read about in
the Bible but seeing is believing and after having seen the grand sight I feel grand beyond
everything and advise everybody who can possibly do so to visit this one of the grandest
thing not to be seen in this world outside of this.
Simon Cohen, London, 24 Feb 1883
If one could come here without having read a word of the books and accounts of
those who describe so glowingly what they did not see, he would think this one of the
most wonderful phenomena of Nature--But as it was I came and took a birds-eye view,
and was disappointed. The unread and the unbelievers have the best of it.
C.C. Merriman, Rochester, New York, 25 Feb 1883
Visited the new lake 25th a.m....The lake was quite active and the sight most
wonderful and interesting....
H.W. Severance, Hawaiian consul from San Francisco, via Honolulu, Hilo, 24 Feb 1883
Visited the new lake...and was very much impressed with all we saw.
John A. Beckwith, Hilo, 24 Feb 1883
Arrived at the Volcano House Feb. 26 1883 and visited the Lake of fire about 9
a.m. 27th in company of Mr. J.F.H. Simson of Hilo and native guide.
Francis Moss, Kohala, 27 Feb 1883
Then say not "see Paris & die"
But see "Kilauea" and live.
W.P. Buckingham, San Francisco, 5 March 1883
Arrived at 4 p.m. from Keawa, en route for Hilo. Found Kilauea in its usual
condition with occasional overflows from the lakes and the crater filling up gradually.
H.M. Whitney, 30 March 1883
Grant me a doctor's privilege--to give advice.
Let every traveller who visits Kilauea turn to page 436-440 (7-14-82 entry) and
there read what Captain Dutton has written; not only read, but spend an hour of careful
study upon the conclusions of a cool observer--a thoughtful man of science. Captain
Dutton sets forth just the information every thoughtful mind desires, when it sees and
considers that grand display--this "heat problem" which Nature has given to the world to
admire and to solve.
Having made the ascent of Mauna Kea, I was rewarded by a grand view after an
easy climb. I rode from the Waimanu Valley to Hilo and reached the Volcano House
April 9th. My farewell visit to the Lakes was made shortly before sunset, just as a perfect
evening rainbow was resting its beautiful arch entirely within the crater. Twas a rare
study for the brush of Church. The approach of darkness adds much grandeur to the
volcanic spectacle, I should judge.
Charles P. Murray, New York, 14 April 1883
I have spent a pleasant day at Kilauea, seen the new Fire Lake in great activity, in
agreeable society, in glorious weather.
Frances A. Barstow, 16 April 1883
The "Inferno" realized.
J.A. Ulman, Baltimore, 16 April 1883
Arrived at VH July 1877
Left
"" April 1883
Wm. H. Lentz, 25 & 26 April 1883
Arrived this evening May 6th. Crater not very active, lava flow slowly raising
level of the outside crater, about the place where the path from the House goes into it.
Arthur Dillon, London, England, 6 May 1883
From Hilo Monday May 7 2 p.m., stopping overnight at Half Way House,
reaching here this noon. Started at 2 1/2 p.m. to visit the Lake, but our guide was deterred
by the unusual heat all along the path and dissuaded us from venturing. As we stood upon
the lava there came an outflow of red hot melted lava directly across the path we had a
few minutes before followed and only 100 yards from the point of wall where the path
enters. We were able to dip our sticks in the bubbling mass and bring away melted
specimens fresh from the stream. Prospect of unusual activity throughout the cauldron
tonight.
May 10. Went to Lakes yesterday a.m. and in evening and had superb view.
R. Stuart Chase, Haverhill, Mass., 8 May 1883
Second visit. Considerable change in the form of walls of crater within the year.
Night view is far more desirable and satisfying than the sight during the day. The present
host is no less hospitable and pleasant than the former, but makes his guests comfortable.
L.W. Simpson, Christiansburg, Va., 16 May 1883
Je suis heureux d'avoir vu ce redoutable Volcan, je quitte Pele avec regret
aujourd'hui.
Charles M. Chancelier, Consulat Hawaii en Belgique, 24 May 1883
Translation: I am happy to have seen the remarkable volcano, I leave Pele with regret
today.
Arrived at noon from Halfway House after a pleasant trip of 5 hours. I found most
comfortable quarters at the Volcano House and every attention exquisite. Too make my
time pass socially and agreeably, the afternoon proved very inclement and a cold rain fog
drifting from the snows of Mauna Kea enveloped the landscape and held us in unwilling
bondage until bedtime. Then there was a sudden transfiguration. The fog-mist rolled
away and the eternal fires of Halemaumau painted themselves in lurid colours on the
retreating clouds. Words are wanting to do justice to the awe-inspiring scene. The black,
frowning, and altogether forbidding cliffs tinged with a Hellish glare. The black floor-across which fiery serpents seemed to writhe in agony. Fire-tinged bodies of sulphurous
vapours rolling through the abyss and in the near foreground a partial eruption adding its
Plutonic glories (say rather horrors) to this altogether devilish scene. This was the
anteroom only, next night after dark I passed into the presence ___ and saw Pluto with
his infernal Judges seated on their everlasting thrones. Here Phlegethon and Cocytus
mingled their fiery deluges. Lurid waves fresh from the very heart of Hell dashed with a
scream of agony against the sullen cliffs. Fountains of liquid fire flung white hot jets of
lava into the sulphurous air whose recoiling billows flung themselves in vain against the
enclosing rocks. These and a hundred other manifestations of power created a scene of
devilish horror that no time can obliterate or soften. Hell made manifest to her external
senses a foul blot existing on the fair face of nature, enduring till time shall be no longer.
M.J.C., Queensland, Australia, 30-31 May 1883
Visited the crater in company with M.J.C. and was certainly astonished. I am also
astonished at the length of a Hawaiian mile!
C.H. Braff, London, 31 May 1883
Arrived at the Volcano House on 22nd (left Hilo at 7 a.m., arrived at 3 p.m.) June
1883. Went to see the volcano at 5:50 p.m., returning at 9:30 p.m. The second lake was a
magnificent sight constantly changing into different shapes.
H.J. Osgood, Wellington, New Zealand, 22 June 1883
Visited the crater at night, and was very much pleased with the view.
Louis J. Lionarond, Queensland, Australia, 22 June 1883
The "Lakes of Fire" the most awfully grand sight ever witnessed. Furnish one a
subject for the most profound thought.
J.H. Prince, Cincinnati, Ohio, 24 June 1883
We the undersigned arrived here at the Volcano House Monday eve July 23rd and
on the afternoon of the 24th we descended into the crater. Seldom, if ever has Madame
Pele given grander sights, both lakes were very active; at one time we counted fifteen
(15) boiling places in South Lake. Then the new cave, soon to be a lake, was the grandest
sight of all, hereafter it will be called "Vulcan's Chaldron" for we were the first to see the
molten stream of lava pour into the immense chaldron, the whole cave was at white heat
and we stood within ten feet of the top peering into the depths below. Words fail in trying
to describe the grandeur. And now on this Tuesday morn we start back to Hilo leaving
behind many thanks and every wish for future success for our kind host ...
Frances M. Lack and party, 25 July 1883
The following party left Kohala for an overland trip to Kilauea on July 31st and
arrived here on Aug. 7 at 7:15 p.m. In company with Mr. Davies' party we went to the
lakes in the crater on Aug. 8, but found only slight activity. This morning we visited the
sulphur banks and the afternoon I visited Kilauea-iki. In the evening Mr. & Mrs. Davies,
Miss Manross and myself visited the South Lake again and found a fine display. With
Mr. Jordan for a guide we found no difficulty in an evening visit. There is no comparison
between an evening and a day view.
Geo. H. Barton, North Sudbury, Mass., 9 Aug 1883
My fourth visit to Kilauea....Arrived at the Volcano House about one o'clock on
Tuesday. On Wednesday we went into the crater and visited both lakes and also the new
Cauldron--a most awful sight. A large opening has been broken in the roof of a deep
cavern into which we peeped and beheld a white-hot chamber with a river of lava running
rapidly through it--coming out of the unknown and into the unknown and flowing
apparently in a channel under our feet. We visited both lakes and found them fairly
active. In the South Lake were three rocky islands.
Last night Mrs. Davies and I descended again--starting under Mr. Jordan's
guidance at 6 o'clock. We reached South Lake at a quarter past seven and remained there
an hour. It is useless to try and describe what we saw. I will only say that the scene was
complete in its terrible grandeur. The islands seen the day before have completely
changed their forms and their positions. The return over the lava was not so difficult as I
expected, the moon being at the Volcano House at half past nine and the fire and the
coffee were very welcome. Our visit closes today.
Theo H. Davies and family, 10 Aug 1883
Left Hilo 7:30 a.m., arrived at volcano at 1:30 p.m., had fine weather, Aug. 10
1883. Left volcano for Hilo Monday Aug. 13 '83. Went down in the crater twice. Saw
about 125 feet of the bank cave in and fall into the New Lake. Went over to Kilauea-iki
and advise everyone who comes here to go over and see the most wonderful sight.
no signature, 13 Aug 1883
...And Tyndall, Darwin, Huxley: all
Those great with science pen
Will try in vain to find why fall
And rise the fires within
And whence their source? what elements
Combine to form and throw
Those fiery surges through those rents
Why begin, and cease, to flow ...
J.E. Sweeney, Hamakua, 19 Aug 1883
It is said that in his infancy the Grecian hero Achilles was dipped by his mother
into the Stygian Lake, to render him invulnerable. His death was therefore accomplished
by a stratagem, by means of which Paris was enabled to pierce his right heel (the only
undipped part of his body) with an arrow, poisoned.
May we not draw a parallel from this. These Stygian Lakes of these burning
mountains, and this mighty ocean must have waged long interminable wars for
supremacy. But the combatants must be unversed. Old Neptune is the invulnerable party,
and the Stygian fires could only attack him from beneath. What time the combat lasted
we certainly know not, but in Kilauea before us we have proof positive that the igneous
element has so far come out the winner, for he has thrown up huge earthworks in the
midst of it enemy's territory. Pele's or Vulcan's artillery frequently resounds over the
mighty waste of water, lights up the lurid horizon with its watch fires, and pours forth
with its dark and fiery mass towards the confines, and after invades the territories of the
angry element. How long this intensive struggle shall continue, God only knows. I would
like to stand adjacent to the next great rush seaward and witness the terrible battle of the
elements.
But drop down a little my pen, come to common place facts, and relate the naked
truth as it is. This whole region is volcanic. The centre of activity seems to be a crater
higher up on Mauna Loa, say 10,000 feet above the sea and about 4000 from the highest
point. From this place a lava flow has issued a few years ago. The region is entirely
uninhabitable. Kilauea, therefore, only 4,400 feet above the sea, is the chief resort. Its
crater or chaldron is the largest, 9 miles in circumference, and it is always in great
activity. There are other extinct or inactive craters in the neighborhood, one called
Kilauea-iki or little Kilauea, and another, still deeper, as Mr. Jordan informs us, about
four miles from here the bottom of which is of unknown depth. Mr. Jordan soon intends
to open a carriage road to this for visitors. The thirty-odd miles from Hilo over which our
route lay was over a continuous stream of lava, once flowing red hot from some
tremendous fountain, but now cold and stiff as the granite rocks of New England. Within
one mile of Hilo, the lava road is replaced by one of gravel and loose rock, indicating that
the lava must have burst from fissures at that distance from the burning lakes, and what
was most strange to us, we could see at that distance no mountain or elevation from
which a stream could flow, all our preconceived ideas circling round a mountain top out
of which poured the molten torrent to devastate the plains below.
But the throes of Mistress Pele are eased in a more summary manner. Her
physician uses the Caesarian process. Well, the first thing that struck us was the immense
clouds of smoke and steam issuing from the place before us, and soon our eyes beheld a
vast crater or caldera towards the east side of which and a little beyond the center are
situated the burning lake, and cones, mounds, or chimneys from which issues fire and
smoke or steam. Being too tired to visit the lakes that night and the following day being
wet, the third day after our arrival found us trudging with a guide, poles in our hands,
over the recent flow of lava a few months before, all was solid, fires at intervals we
passed on our way. Our first visit was to Halemaumau or house of fire, and here the fire
was boiling up at irregular distances throughout the black surface of the molten lake
below us. The approach to this crater was through rough blocks of lava awkwardly
pushed aside to admit the view and to allow of approach within the cones surrounding the
inward basin.
Elsewhere in this book an account will be found of the falling in of the place near
where we stood, witnessed by the narrator. The view is truly grand and terrible. Thence
we proceeded to the south lake to which the approach is somewhat easier. Here sheltering
ourselves from the piercing wind behind a wall of lava blocks piled up a few weeks
before by a party of savants from France, Belgium, and Italy, we witnessed one of the
grandest, the most sublime and most extraordinary spectacles that they eye of man ever
beheld. Here was an immense boiling lake some hundreds of feet beneath us, circular in
form, and about a quarter of a mile across, on the surface of which the liquid fire poured
out in all shapes and figures. Now it is an irregular triangle, widening out into a polygon
of some shape or figure, each streams angle or line chasing each other and always
overtaking and disappearing only to reappear again in a tremendous burst of flame. All
the while a continual sough and splash of the spray against the sides of the chasm, make
up a terrible accompaniment to the fantastic figures eternally shining and dancing across
the dark surface of the lake. It seemed as if all the imps were holding high carnival at the
portals of the palace of pandemonium. Standing there as in a reverie methought the vast
lake expanded beyond my mental vision, that the banks were lifted, vaulted to an
immense height, where
"Fiery darts in flaming volleys flew"
It was a terrible thought, I aroused myself and hurried from the scene. I dragged
the guide and my companions away from the spot to my comfortable fireside where the
kind host is preparing for us the almost midnight lunch...
H.W.B., 19 Aug 1883
...Words are powerless to rightly express what was seen, what was felt, last night
in viewing Kilauea.
Mrs. Samuel Bright, Rochdale, England, 20 Aug 1883
Oldest visitor, been both on Kea & Loa just now.
W.E.T. Could, 26 Aug 1883
Arrived here in the evening of 30th of August. Visited the two burning lakes on
the nights of the 31st August and 1st of September. Both lakes active, especially the one
to the eastward. There are indications of some changes taking place--caves are rapidly
forming and the crust sinking, between the two lakes. The landlord W. Jordan seems to
think that before long one vast lake may be formed. Lava has ceased to flow on the bed
of the grand crater. Fine weather.
signature illegible, 30 Aug to 2 Sept 1883
Came up with Mr. Roberts. Visited the lakes twice the night of Sept. 1st. We saw
a sight our landlord said he had never seen; the new lake after a few moments of great
quiet, suddenly boiled in nearly every part, and swallowing the black crust glowed fiery
red over the entire surface. so hot was it, that we had to step back several yards from the
spot where people generally sit when looking at the lake, and even then were obliged to
screen our faces with our hands. This same evening we noticed one or two large cracks
on the surface of the large crater near the lakes that we had not seen the night before.
Frederick Allen, Washington D.C., 30 Aug to 2 Sept 1883
...On Oct. 1st rode from Pahala to Volcano House in 4 hours and 45 minutes.
Visited the lakes on the night of Oct. 1st.
This world affords not many a sight
Whose grandeur can compare
With that, one stands before at night
Entranced at Kilauea
To view its heaving burning breast
It sets one's own aglow!
Who e'er can see it at its best
And disappointed go
Can naught admire, I'll be blessed
From North to South, from East to West.
Lionel H. Heynemann, San Francisco, 1-2 Oct 1883
Left Volcano House to explore Mauna Loa on Oct. 14th, and rode some distance
up the further side of the longest of the lava flows which descends from the mountain,
between this and Ainapo, and camped on its side, then went on to Ainapo and camped
there, walked up Mauna Loa to a height of 11,000-12,000 feet; when mist came down
preventing view returned by easier route, further to the S., to Ainapo the same
afternoon.As I have no guide, and do not know the best horse track, I can not say what
course is to be recommended to those who have horses, but those who have not a guide
will find it better not to attempt to reach the summit on horseback for the whole upper
part seems to be a mass of wild tumbled rocks, over which it is very difficult to take
horses for one who does not know the best way. By camping 3000 feet above Ainapo, up
to which point, say 7000-8000 feet above sea level, horses may be taken with no great
difficulty. The summit of Mauna Loa may be reached in five or six hours, returning the
same evening. It is necessary however to make a very early start in order to see anything,
because at least at this season the clouds seem to come down pretty regularly on the
upper part of the mountain between 10 and 11 a.m. and to remain there till evening.
Mr. Jordan is very friendly and energetic in preparing his guests for expeditions
and has much to tell about the country and people, which is full of interest.
J. Bryce, 18 Oct 1883
During the time that Mr. Bryce and myself were here we made three descents into
the crater and on each occasion the two lakes were very active, on the night of the 13th a
large cave took place at Halemaumau and on the night of the 17th there was a most
brilliant breakup of the new lake. The ascent of Mauna Loa is a comparatively easy
matter, the greatest difficulty being that of the water supply all of which has to be packed
up.
I must add my appreciation of the manner in which Mr. Jordan tries to make his
guests comfortable, and I wish him every success.
E.E.S., 18 Oct 1883
The following entry has been translated from Hawaiian by Dorothy Barrere.
...iamau [i a mau] no ka luahini o ka lua-aole i aluaiho [aole i alu a iho] kona auea
puukani no kahi olo-uomene[?]...
The Old Woman of the Pit constantly erupts-she does not slacken off her gurgling
sounds where Pele [the lava] ?moves about.
Jno. N. Kapahu, with wife and Kalele, Naalehu, 19 Oct 1883
Reached V.H. from Kaimu, Mr. Richardson accompanying. Mr. R. and Mr. B. in
one hour went to the place near the trail from Puna to Kapapala, where, in 1868 lava
appeared on the surface. The lava came out at several points, but the largest space
covered by lava is, say, 1/8 of a mile square. The _____ the bearing of Kahuku and the
land-slide at Kapapala from Kilauea, is to the right (looking from Kilauea) of the
direction of the crack S. of the direction of the lava that came to the surface in 1868, from
Kilauea.
Nov. 3. On the 2d Mr. B. went to the south side of Halemaumau and threw an iron
wire (a lava fragment at the end) into the boiling lava. The boiling process continuously
pulled the wire down and down for about three minutes, when the iron was burnt off. A
south wind required Mr. B. to go round to the south side of Halemaumau: the north side
not being accessible on account of the gases.
Edw. P. Baker, 31 Oct 1883
Volcano v. active.
Charles H. Combe, Surrey, England, 12-14 Nov 1883
You all can have your choice at the V.H. Fire and Brimstone or the other side of
Jordan they could not tell old Nick alone but got Jordan right at Home.
Jno. C. Searle, 28 Nov 1883
Was down in the crater and found it exceedingly active.
Sarah Yates, 1st visit, 28 Nov 1883
...The impressions from the visit to the volcano are such that I shall always
remember vividly. The grandeur and sublimity of the scene is beyond expression in
words....
N.W. Lane, M.D., Wailuku, Maui, 7 Jan 1884
...I saw the fire very well from the Volcano House.
Dr. W.F., 21 Jan 1884
The awful grandeur of the scene, nor pen nor tongue can tell, these lurid, neverceasing flames, are fitting type of hell, yet glad we know of god of love, still reigns
supreme in heaven above.
Julia E. Ward, Mt. Holyoke Seminary, Mass., 29 Jan 1884
Volcano very active--both lakes in a state of fusion--rockets rising to the height of
100 feet--the whole of the new lake boiling and surging like the waves of the sea--Pele's
hair floating in the air. The whole scene is beyond description--grand.
Marie Sheeley, 29 Jan 1884
All very fine, but I do not like the ride up here. My first visit and I think will be
the last unless they get a railroad up. Go and see the house of everlasting fire by night.
L. Woodward, Minneapolis, Minn., 4 Feb 1884
Left Hilo yesterday morning and after a 9 hour ride reached this place. Next day
visited the wonders of nature which was satisfactory.
John B. Meldrum, Provo City, Utah, 8 Feb 1884
Started from Hilo at 6 a.m. and arrived at 12:30. Thoroughly enjoyed the splendid
air and excellent accommodation of Volcano House. Visited the craters. The old crater
was for a short time a perfect sea of fire. The new crater burst into sudden activity on our
return in the evening. We returned to see it and found it in full activity, the walls
absolutely brilliant with lines of burning lava. There is no hotel in the Sandwich Islands
more suitable for a sanitarium.
G. Whitaker, Papaikou; J.H.S. Callen, D.M.D., San Francisco, 16 Feb 1884
Visited the crater last night. Left house at 5 p.m. Arrived at Halemaumau at 6 p.m.
Remained there until 8 p.m. Arrived at New Lake 8:45. Left 10:00. Got back to house at
11:15.
Both lakes were very active and were evidently running a race. If Kalakaua Rex
does not put a stop to this rivalry there will be an explosion some of these days....
Geo. L. Underhill, San Francisco, Cal., 26 Feb 1884
In our visit to Madame Pele last night we found a new little crater on the route
between Halemaumau and the New Lake. The guide says that it began to form last
Tuesday March 3rd. We visited it as we went to Halemaumau and it looked precisely like
the furnace of a blacksmith's forge and not over two feet across but while we were
watching Halemaumau the little crater burst forth and gave us a distant view of a lava
flow several hundred feet in length. We have named it The Little Beggar on account of its
viciousness.
An old gentleman visited the night before, reported that the "nawsty little beggar
no bigger than your 'ed was spitting away right in our pawth, you know, and I had to go
so far round to keep away from it that I didn't see the south lake at all."
We hope the "Little Beggar" will go on and make a new lake in honor of our
party. Madame Pele gave us a fine show at the New Lake and we are glad we came.
C.H. Dickey, Haiku, Maui, 9 March 1884
Went alone, with guide, to see the volcano. Left house at 6 p.m. Grand beyond
description. Returned at 1 a.m. (7 hours) tired but pleased.
G. Bertram, 10 March 1884
I have made many trips already but this was certainly the worst I have ever taken.
The miles seem longer than anywhere else but I suppose we will be repaid when we see
the crater--I hope so.
Our party started this p.m. for the crater all in good spirits and willing to be
convinced that we were justified in having taken all the trouble for the sake of Madame
Pele--for myself I was simply electrified by what I saw, the sublimity and grandeur of the
scene should really be described by those who possess the element of poetry in their soul
and who are capable of expressing themselves properly, but as I believe our impressions
of such scenes can be best stated at the moment, I have taken the liberty of using this
book as a diary and ask pardon of anybody who may feel aggrieved. It was my fortune to
see the New Lake in a state of unwonted activity. Plenty of _____ so that if Mr. Jordan
would only keep some whiskey and we had had any of it along--the sight of them might
have aggravated any "attack" we might have had....
Adolph Mack, San Francisco, 17 March 1884
Arrived at the Volcano House at 2 p.m. from Kapapala in company of A. Barnes.
Had a visit to Halemaumau lake and also the new lake, both were in active....
Wm. Smith, 22 March 1884
We knelt at the feet of Pele and were kissed by the red lips of hell.
J. Owen, San Jose, California, 5 April 1884
Returning from the new lake 9 p.m. "Jordan's a hard road to travel."
no signature and no date
I have seen H--l in its most dismal form, I now believe that three times one is one.
So I am off to fast and pray that my sins may be forgiven. If any preacher in Christendom
has an infidel among his flock, send the heretic to see Kilauea, it will convince his heart
more readily than all the mythical H--ls in the Bible.
John C. McGause, London, England, 8 April 1883
"THE GREATEST SHOW ON EARTH"
The Great Craters
of HALE-MAU-MAU and KALEAU!
Billows of liquid fire!
Waves of molten lava!!
Fiery fountains!!!
UNPARALELLED
PYROTECHNIC DISPLAYS!!!!
Day and Night
Goddess Pele
Proprietress
Geo. D. Dorrin, Berkeley, Cal., 19-21 April, 1884
About 30th visit--"Same old thing." Everyone who writes in this book seems to think
they have been especially favored by Madame Pele.
C.N. Arnold, Hilo, R.S. Chief Hawaii, 27 April 1884
7/2/84. Written 15/1/85
Rev. Dr. McLane, Rev. Mr. Tuttle, Chas. H. Wetmore & Miss Lucy T. Wetmore
arrived at the volcano May 5th.they left May 7th/84. Mr. Tuttle spent 1/2, and the
remaining three of our party spent 3/4 of the night in the crater. Halemaumau was very
active--we all enjoyed exceedingly the night scenes. When Dr. McL left the seat of action
he said "now I start ____ my California house."
Charles A. Wetmore, date unclear
The following entry is translated from Hawaiian by Dorothy Barrere.
Maikai ka makani o keia la
"Ku pololei ae la ka uwahi o ka lua
A no i Mokuaweoweo"
A good wind this day-"The smoke of the pit rises straight up
And also that of Mokuaweoweo" [from a mele, not necessarily that
Mokuaweoweo was also steaming that day]
Jno. N. Kapahu, 5 May 1884
The way is long, the way is steep
The road is crooked, the holes are deep
On the Half Way House a blessing be?
Lord bless the house, and the thoroughbred flea
For Man may swear and Woman may weep
But the cursed flea won't let you sleep;
In the early morn, arise and go
The remaining way to the lava flow
To the brink of the Pit of fiery depth
The Volcano House upon its width.
"Anoint your sorrows with vaseline"
And write your experiences in between
The leaves of this Journal so that he
Who travels this way, may surely see
That the race of idiots, poets and sich
Is not exhausted quite--but which
May prove the reason--for all that-That I came here-Your servant, Max Pracht
Max Pracht, San Francisco, 16 May 1884
Spent Sunday in the Cathedral __ by God's own Hand, whose ministers are
flaming fires--a Sunday ever to be remembered. When I contemplate this stupendous
work of the Almighty, how insignificant does this creature, Man, appear! and I can but
exclaim "What is Man that Thou art mindful of him" as my soul is transported with the
view, and is lost in wondering awe & love & praise.
Sarah P. Wagstaff, 18 May 1884
We spent two days in viewing the volcano and other sights of interest, being
kindly entertained by Mr. Thompson, who did everything in his power to make us
comfortable, leave today for Hilo.
M. Du Bois Wagstaff, 20 May 1884
Visited the Lakes of Fire and found them beautiful beyond all descriptions we had
ever read--fire fountains, Atlantic waves, fiery serpents, golden ice--no words can tell the
ever-changing glories of the molten lava! The island in the New Lake resembled the
Rock of Gibraltar--with the lights of the _______ and this was surrounded by a sea of
gold _________ a view of brilliant light the margin of the lake....
Major & Mrs. Carr Dyer, England, 27 June 1884
Illustration: Sketch of floating island in New Lake, 27 June 1884. Page 572.
The following is translated from Hawaiian by Dorothy Barrere.
Hiki mai ma Kaauea (Volcano House) hora 3:45 ahiahi i a ana ka hora 5:10 iho
ilalo o Kaluaopele e makaikai me ka Keiki Alii o Suedena & na ukaili & Col. Curtis
Iaukea & kekahi poe makaikai e ae. Ua hiki ma Halemaumau & Kilauea, haalele ia lalo
hora 9, hiki ma ka Hale hora 10:40 ahiahi.
Arrived at Kaauea (Volcano House) at 3:45 in the afternoon and at 5:10 went
down to the Crater [Kaluaopele] to sightsee with the Prince of Sweden and the retinue
and Col. Curtis Iaukea and some other sightseers. Arrived at Halemaumau & Kilauea, left
there at 9, ararived at the House at 10:40 in the evening.
Curtis P. Iaukea adds, in English: "Both lakes were visited."
Y.K. Kaapa, Police Officer, 30 June 1884
Elements fairly propitious. Last night's visit to the volcano equalled expectations
and will remain unforgotten! I hope for the benefit of all concerned that the number of
visitors to this spot will largely increase and that every one will leave it as well satisfied.
Francis A. Cramer, San Francisco, 1 July 1884
This party of three arrived her 5th July, 6 hours and 20 minutes from Hilo. After
dinner we went down to the crater and gazed upon the fiery furies of Madame Pele and
realized that the word paintings of accomplished masters nor the brush or artist had never
yet adequately portrayed this indescribable and hellish chaos--this mundane hades....
Henry T. Poor, 7 July 1884
Madame Pele--You are an old flirt. Your hair is white with age, but your lips are
as red, your eyes as fervid, your cheeks as flushed, as in your youth. Goodbye, old dame.
We came, we saw, we are satisfied--to go home.
J. Blackman, 13 Aug 1884
Arrived here from Punaluu on the 14th, visited the crater on the 15th, had a fine
night and a good view of Halemaumau and the new lake. A very interesting and splendid
sight. The landlord has been very civil and the wood fire most pleasant and homelike.
P.S. Aug. 17. Made a second trip to the volcano last eve a bad night &
very wet. The lamps are far from what they should be but the guide is a capital fellow.
C.B. Godman, 16 Aug 1884
Arrived at the Volcano House on the 15th at 6:50 p.m. Visited the crater on the
night of the 16th starting at 8 p.m. Rain was falling almost the whole way and the steam
to and fro was intense. The road was a most difficult one to find in such weather, and to
add to this our lamps completely gave out when we were half way on our way back. I
would record here the excellence of the guide who thoroughly understands his business
and no one need to fear that even on the darkest of nights, he will not pull through. The
crater (New Lake) was very active indeed and a splendid sight was obtained--one that
will never be forgotten by me....
William A. Swan, 17 Aug 1884
Their first and last visit unless Madame Pele will get up a lava flow.
J.A. Conway, Mrs. E.A.I. Conway, Honolulu, 27 Aug 1884
Despite the awful reminders of the realization of my future home still I say with
the poet
I have been there I fain would go
It's like a little Hell below.
E.W. Luning, 6 Sept 1884
Went down into the crater this afternoon and stayed till after dark, visited
Halemaumau and the New Lake, they were quite active. While sitting on the bank of the
New Lake about 7:30 p.m. felt two shocks of earthquake, soon after several hundred feet
of the south bank of the New Lake fell in.
It was rainy and windy and on our way back our lights went out, we lost the trail
and had quite a time.
Henry H. Williams, Honolulu, Second visit, 15 Sept 1884
First visit, much pleased with volcano and sulphur baths. New Lake very active.
D.H. Davis, Honolulu, 17 Oct 1884
Visited here in October 1884 remaining nearly one week. Camped out one night
on the new lake and saw her break out six times during the night. If we could make
photographs in colors and at night some idea of the sight might be given, but the pictures
we have seen of Madam Pele are a great insult to her.
Regret that we could not remain here for one month but time will not permit. As
we already feel so much invigorated we fancy we might sling a bull by the tail. Hoping
we may at some future time visit these wonderful regions and bring our bigger gun and
shoot these lakes of fire more than 20 times which we have only had time to do this trip.
W.N. Tuttle, photographer, Sydney, Oct. 1884
We came, we saw, we were conquered by Kilauea, it is grand beyond description.
It strikes me however that any well organized volcano would remove to a dryer climate.
Thomas W. Lee, Sydney, Australia, 20 Oct 1884
I leave Hilo by myself at 6:45 and enjoy a delightful ride through an earthly
paradise in heavenly weather to the one mile post, when a sharp 9 minutes ride in a
shower of rain brings me to the V.H. by 2:05.
Descend into Madame Pele's caldron of fire and brimstone: the sublimity and
grandeur of her work is beyond expression. The impression that I have received will
never be forgotten. If the works of the goddess of fire be a specimen of Hell and its
torments, may the God of mercy deliver us all from it.
22nd. After travelling over half the civilized and uncivilized world I can
congratulate Mr. Shipman on having a house of accommodation that is not surpassed or
equalled for its excellence (excepting pens) by any other that I have visited at such a
distance from any town.
Tom Southwick, Hull, Eng., 20 Oct 1884
Vision of terror! clear dost thou tell
Of the fate that awaiteth the wicked in Hell ...
no signature, 8 Nov 1884
During our visit here, we made two volcano excursions; the first was on the 7th,
by night--we then found the crater active, and presenting a scene quite up to our
expectations. The "little beggar" was very busy also, and blowing away like a smithy's
forge. The New Lake was almost quiet, and the surface free from any activity.
On the 10th, about 4:30 p.m., we observed from the Volcano House a flow of lava
coming into the great lava bed from the "little beggar"; as darkness came on the sight was
grand; along and wide stream of molten lava continually moving lit up the whole sky
above, and most of the lake below.
The following day we went with the guide to watch the flowing lava, and were
much interested in what we saw, though we did not attempt to approach the source of the
stream; our guide, Mr. Roby, had told us he expected some unusual phenomenon when
we visited the crater on the 7th and he now tells us he does not expect this lava flow to
continue very long.
We have much pleasure in testifying to his excellent powers as a guide; and we
also found him no less pleasant as a companion, than trustworthy as a guide. During our
stay at the Volcano House, the proprietor himself was away from home except for one
day; but we are happy to say we have been most kindly and hospitably treated--and we
think ourselves most fortunate to have found so comfortable and pleasant a spot in a
place so far from the haunts of men.
Edwin Rushfield, Rev. A.F. King, England, 5-11 Nov 1884
Man's love of nature may be justly judged by the sacrifice he is willing to bring in
order to gratify his desire to see nature's masterpieces. I have made 24 miles per
mulepower from Pahala, have to travel on that "via dolorosa" once more and defy any
person to question my love of nature.
M. Greenblatt, San Francisco, Editor California Democrat, 27 Nov 1884
Visited the volcano Dec. 6th in the afternoon and remained till evening.
Halemaumau very active, the New Lake quiet. Our guide most excellent and full of
information as regards the volcano.
Mr. and Mrs. W.R. Bagley, Wiltshire, England, 5-7 Dec 1884
Left Hilo 20th of Decbr....Stopped half way house overnight and arrived here
Sunday 3 o'clock p.m. I soon found myself at home here and in company with Mr.
Rorback the most estimated guide to the terrors of the crater I spent many happy an hour.
Weather was bright when we visited the crater and I was highly astonished to see such a
wonder of nature before me. I never thought such a great admirable sight could be had on
this earth. I leave tomorrow for Hilo ...
C. Wiedemann, San Francisco, 22 Dec 1884
Modern theologians, thinkers, and sinners may be able to change Hell into Hades
but let's see them modify the heat of these lakes or measure their depth. We can only feel
sure that they are not over 8000 miles deep. Science may sit down and think.
J.D. Warfield, Quincy, Ill., 25 Dec 1884
Left Pahala at 8 a.m., arrived at Volcano House at 6 p.m. The crater is very active.
Left next morning at 9 a.m. for Hilo.
Thomas J. Kidd, Liverpool, England, 30 Dec 1884
Arrived yesterday at noon. Had a good view of Madam Pele: and had a pleasant
evening with the affable guide and manager Mr. Roback.
Marvin E. Pack, U.S. Harris, 1 Jan 1885
The crater in vicinity of Halemaumau appears to me to have been considerably
built up since my visit here 7/84.
Chas. H. Wetmore, M.D., 15 Jan 1885
Went to the crater at 4:30 p.m, returned at 11 p.m. Certainly a grand sight, far
exceeded our imagination.
L.H. Parsons, Oakland, Cal., 4 Feb 1885
Whole show worth the trouble. Fared well.
Andrew R. Grieve, Greenock, Scotland, 23 Feb 1885
Oh! Halemaumau! thou remnant of a fiery past
Clothed in the majesty of countless years
Tell us! Wilt keep thy secrets forever fast?
Unmindful of our wishes and our secret fears?
Wherefore this fierce unrest? this wild and savage play?
Darkening the sunny skies of this fair land
With blinding vapors and they jets of fiery spray
A fitting symbol of the torments of the damned,
Art doing penance for some unamed crime?
Committed in the dim and misty past?
Must seethe and groan until the hand of time
Takes pity on thy woe and releases thee at last?
Around thy brain the tropic flowers bloom
The wild bird whistles to her mate
The crescent moon relieves the evening's gloom
And only thou dost breathe the venomed breath of hate
Old as the Sphinx; and like that mark on history's page
Thou speakest not, but keepest thy secret well
And years to come may view thy speechless rage
No longer can I stay with thee, so Kilauea, farewell!
Edwin V. Atkinson, 23 Feb 1885
So here we are, and jolly far
We've had to come to reach it
And now, no doubt, like all the rest
I must start in and preach it
I came, I saw--and filled with awe
It conquered me completely
I started forth for all I'm worth
But came back much more meekly.
Our jolly host, who runs the post
Has left it for a season
And the guide galoot has gone to shoot
Wild pigs for a good reason.
I must confess the jolly mess
I mean the grub they gave us
Was extra good, and wholesome food,
But from the prices save us.
I would say more, but for the bore
Of writing this with tincture
And so instead, suppose all said,
And look upon this picture.
E.H., possibly E. Hutchinson 24 Feb 1885
The above entry is accompanied by a drawing on page 608 of a bottle of bourbon and a
glass and a jug.
We remained four days, were twice at the volcano and several other places of
interest, and are more than satisfied with our landlord and his table.
W.M. Scribner, New York, 27 Feb 1885
Arrived here at 4:30 p.m. after a splendid trip from Punahou. Visited the volcano
last evening (7th) and found Madame Pele and her numerous family quite active at times.
signature unclear, 6 March 1885
For the second time to see the wonderful crater.
Lipto Kirlos, Hungary, Europe, 31 March 1885
We the undersigned having met here at the Volcano House. With Tom Pupuu our
good natured guide made the trip to the South Lake this afternoon, spent about two hours
on its edge, seeing the fireworks by night and returning at eight o'clock.
The goddess has been doing well lately, giving us a grand show of it. The lava is running
from Halemaumau nearly all over the crater. The trip was one that we call a good
investment although it rained nearly all the time we were gone....
G.P. Castle, Canada, 4 April 1885
Five of us came and ere we go
We write our names in a five line row
That all who look on this page may know
That we consider the Vol-ca-no
In every respect--a first class show.
Mrs. J. Monsarrat and party, 9 April 1885
I ascended Mauna Loa, reaching Mokuaweoweo about 10 A.M. April 20th. Snow
covered the upper portion of the summit plateau in large masses, and in small scattering
patches extended nearly a thousand feet below the summit. I left behind all clouds at the
height of between seven and eight thousand feet, all clear and cold too above that. The
wind (very cold) was continuous and in heavy gusts, blowing all the while from S.E., S.
and S.W. The walls of Mokuaweoweo, especially the western, were plentifully bedecked
with snow, and there was much snow on the floor of the crater. The spot of Commodore
Wilkes encampment was mostly covered with snow, so that I saw as the only relics there,
two sticks, a broken bottle and a few nails. To my remark then and there made to J.
Ulumahiapua Pea of Panau, Puna, "Wilke's' encampment," his reply was, "My
grandfather Ulumahiapua Pea was the guide." We walked up and back from Ainapo. Six
full days were spent in travel. The pocket barometer of Mr. Richardson which I carried
showed Mauna Loa to be 13,300 feet above sea level. The summit crater was quiescent,
just as it has been for several years: however, sulphurous smoke and steam were issuing
from cracks in the floor of the crater, the crater being of the shape of the figure 8 written
horizontal. I descended into Mokuaweoweo and spent the night by the steam and smoke
cracks in the floor, keeping very warm by the issuing heat, although the night before I
slept in a cave with icicles over head. Only one who has been there can realize the
formidableness of the task of going down and coming up out of the summit crater of
Mauna Loa. The angle of descent was 90 degrees in places, and not apparently less than
75 or 80 degrees any of the way. The place where I descended was at a point on the
northeast brink, two-thirds of the descent bringing me to the floor of the first bench, and
the other third to the lowest bench of the largest part of the crater. The barometer
indicated the floor of the crater to be only four hundred feel below the brink (the real
depth being, however, rather more). It was during most of the time in clear sky above the
clouds, it being nearly all the time the jaunt lasted rainy below. My last day on the
mountain gave signs of a heavy storm, the upper and cirrus clouds being driven over by
the southwest wind, and meeting the trade wind and lower clouds, and looking very angry
at the place of meeting. The storm that followed us was one of the heaviest ever known
on the island. I was fortunate enough to reach a camp for shelter (6000 feet up) a few
hours after the storm struck me. J.U. Pea exhibited great natural efficiency as a guide.
As to that future possible date, when Mokuaweoweo will become again active,
another flow will issue from the mountain or volcanic forces will blow off the whole top
of Maunaloa leaving then another but stupendous Haleakala. The undersigned need
indulge in no speculations.
P.S. The fierce cold wind blowing and the sunlight reflected by the snow affected
my eyes with incipient inflammation. In consequence of the lightness of the air, I found
myself affected with vertigo after awakening from sleep on the floor of the crater on the
morning of April 21st. The account of Mr. John Lydgate (page 46) [24 June 1874] gives
the height of [page torn here] as 800 and 1000 ft. [torn] the floor has risen since the
Lydgate survey; however the small aneroid I carried did not respond sensitively to small
heights and depths. An account of a descent into Mokuaweoweo by W.W. Hall is found
on page 32 [22 Sept 1873] of this book as also another account in old book Apr. 17th
1865. According to the accounts in the old book (17 Apr. 1865) one of the party went
round the south end of Mokuaweoweo while the rest of the party crossed the shallow
supplementary loop attached to the north end of the main or larger loop of that figure 8.
(See Lydgate survey page 46 this book.)
Rev. E.P. Baker, 25 April 1885
Important Note: In the original text, the word "degrees" does not show up, the symbol
does. However, my typewriter does not have this symbol, and so I have inserted the word
for the symbol in this transcript.
Visited crater during day of 16th. Flowing lava about 1/2 mile to right of point
where road meets the crater bed. New Lake about twice the size of April '82. the change
seems to be from caving away of the westerly banks and towards Halemaumau. The
island is all remaining of that bank.
South Lake changed by caving away of banks with loss of the crest of high ridge
to the N.W. Witnessed a break up of surface which floated to the S.E. corner and plunged
in.
"Little Beggar" (so called) and the flow thence to the N.E. are wholly new, as is
the break down in the surface between "L.B." and South Lake.
The "Little Beggar" called for supplies and swallowed my little boy's hat in an
instant.
William R. Castle, 4th visit, 15-18 May
Arrived here Friday noon 7 hours from Hilo. Went down crater in evening. New
Lake broke up while we were present, for the first time in several months, states the
guide. Descended to the floor of Halemaumau through the gap on the N. side. The path
descends to a point 10 to 15 feet below the level of the lake.
The lava in the lake had risen about a foot between Friday night and Saturday
afternoon. The lake was very active Saturday afternoon. The flow from "Little Beggar",
which has been running since early in March, has nearly reached the N. wall of the crater
and is still slowly advancing. Made coin specimens there.
L.A. Thurston, 17 May 1885
Left Punaluu at 5:30 a.m....Reached the Volcano House at 2:30 p.m. Went into the
crater and to Halemaumau at 5 p.m.; remained until 8:30 p.m. and reached the hotel at 11
p.m. A good day's work but was fully repaid by the awful grandeur of the scene for all
the fatigue endured. Could not have gotten back at all without Haines the Norwegian
guide's strong arm and kind help.
Miss C.C.G., Reading, Penn., 1 June 1885
m the hotel, and is well wo
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ence by saying we arrived here. cigars without much difficulty.
W.L. Green, 5 June 1873
Selected Entries From
The Volcano House Register, Volume 3
1885-1891
Concerning Eruptive Activity or Changes in Kilauea and Mauna Loa
The Volcano House passed into the hands of the "Wilder Steamship Company"
June 20th, 1885, with J.H. Maby as manager.
no signature, 20 June 1885
...Our two visits to the two lakes have been very gratifying--the most sublime and
awfully grand sight in the world. The wonderful "safety valve" Nature has provided
between the two lakes is to my mind a most awe inspiring phenomenon. Some call it the
"Little Beggar"--this is a misnomer--it should be called "Pele's Throat." I would advise
everyone to visit Kilauea-iki--1 1/2 miles distant.
Merton and Annie Cotes, 21 July 1885
Arrived here with Mrs. O. on the 18th inst. We have much enjoyed our stay at this
place. Have been to the lakes twice. The first time (the 19th) the new lake was not as
active as it often is but Halemaumau was very demonstrative. The second time (the 22nd)
we greatly enjoyed our visit, as the new lake shortly after we arrived broke out into a
great sea of fire. That evening Halemaumau also displayed much activity. The "Little
Beggar" or "Pele's Throat" was exceedingly lively. Yesterday afternoon we saw Kilaueaiki.
We leave today via Keauhou and Hilo to Honolulu, carrying with us pleasant
remembrances of our stay here. We would especially record our appreciation of the many
tokens of kindness received from Mr. J.H. Maby, the obliging and courteous host of the
Volcano House.
E.C. Oggel, 29 July 1885
After having visited the volcano with a party of 29 in all, guides included, we are
able to say it was a grand success in nearly every particular and a scene presented itself
which can never be effaced from memory. Unfortunately the wind was so strong on our
return trip that it was impossible to keep our lanterns burning as we crossed the burning
lava which caused considerable trepidation on the part of some of the party and we
presented a motley crew groping in the darkness with only three and sometimes two
lanterns, while others were jolly and singing thus keeping up the spirits in this dilemma.
Thanks to our kind host, Mr. J.H. Maby, who has shown every civility and kindness
possible.
Frank and Lillie Atwater, 4 Aug 1885
I have just returned from the Place that I have read so much about in the Bible,
and shall hereafter keep on the right road to Heaven.
Plummette M. Byng, Charleston, S.C., 4 Aug 1885
The following entry has been translated from Hawaiian by Dorothy Barrere.
...nui ka pii ana i ka lua pele, nui ko makou lealea i ka iho ana ilalo o ka lua, nui
ka a o ka pele, nui na Huapala ili keokeo omele ka apu ka pele liilii keia ma ka huakai nui
i hiki ma ka lua pele mai Kiauhou mai.
...great is the climb up to the Crater-great our pleasure in going down to the pit,
great the blazing of the lava-there are many orange-petaled huapala [sweetheart vine
flowers] along the way to reach the crater from Keauhou.
Kaululuimalama, Kula Lahua, Honolulu, 4 Aug 1885
Having visited the Yellowstone Park, Wyoming, U.S.A. in 1881 which is
considered to be the most wonderful phenomenal regions in the known world, I have now
been permitted to see another wondrous work of creation, viz. the Volcano of Kilauea. I
was prepared to see some revelations of a startling character but must confess that
although I gave my imagination its widest scope it fell very short of its grand reality. It
defies description to feel the intensity and the immensity of this wondrous work of God's
creation. Go and see this mighty manifestation of His power and you will exclaim
"Benedicite omnia opera." Mr. Maby our host of the Volcano Hotel devotes his time to
the comfort of his guests. Having been a great traveler himself he is cosmopolitan and
catholic in his ideas and the guide J.U. Pea is a fine specimen of native intelligence and
native nobility.
Arthur Brown, Newcastle-on-Tyne, England, 15 Aug 1885
Arrived here Friday noon via Puna. Found the late storm had done great damage
along the coast, uprooting cocoanut trees and other large trees and in many places
washing away all traces of the road, in others filling it so full of huge boulders that it was
impossible to follow it and a long circuit around would have to be made. Rocks weighing
from 100 to 5000 pounds were bodily lifted from the bottom of the bluff and deposited
inland. In many places the bluff was torn up as if by an earthquake. The storm must have
been something terrible...
Since I was here April 1883, I do not find many changes. Halemaumau now
overtops the west bank and lava is continually running there from all over the lake. The
crater is gradually filling up and now bids fair to become a huge cone instead of a vast
pit. The new lake on the east bank of Halemaumau is quite active and the source from
whence the lava flowing over the crater bed, comes.
Mr. Maby, Marcus Blackman, and self descended the bluff near Kilauea iki and
crossing the flat went over to Poli a Keawe, a small crater, not far from the S.E. bank of
Kilauea. We found it about 300 feet deep with two rifts running down into the bottom
from the eastern side. A recent flow of lava has covered the whole floor with a rock bed
so smooth that it would almost do for a skating rink.
Other deep and large craters are to be found scattered all over the plain to the
southeast of Kilauea which time failed us to go and see.
Now as to the "new departure" in the Volcano House, by Wilder Steamship Co.
The whole premises need repairs badly. A little whitewash and paint would vastly add to
its appearance. Better accommodations for horses and animals need to be made. Oats do
not want to be fed out in bottomless boxes, but good stable room is wanted. Good
covered iron tanks are needed instead of the large open tank now half filled. The roof of
the building ought to be of corrugated iron, so that the water can be clear and clean
instead of running off the mossy roof, carrying with it dirt and moss into the tank, And
generally the whole place ought to be kept scrupulously clean and neat. Mr. Maby is
trying to remedy some of these things, but a great deal remains to be done, to make this a
popular resort. There is no reason why the table should not be better supplied. Fresh milk,
and butter made on the place ought to be supplied in abundance. A good supply of beef,
mutton, and fowls ought to be constantly on hand. Beef will keep well up here, protected
from the flies, for a week. There is no reason why a first class table should not be
furnished for the prices charged. No one feels like growling at a charge if he thinks he is
served as well as he might be. I am not saying this to find fault with our kind host, but
only to stir up the owners of this place to do more for the traveling public than they are
now doing. Have enjoyed my stay of two days up here very much.
D.H. Hitchcock, 23 Aug 1885
I came via Punaluu, which though a long, hard ride is a necessity to finish a visit
to this wonderful scene. I have seen both cauldrons in high states of commotion and
noted two facts: they alternate in violence, and the motion of the lava is northward and
eastward. As a yardstick for measuring scientific knowledge Kilauea is a long one. The
tremendous vortex filling with lava, the outpouring of steam all about, and the vast fields
of lava over which I have ridden, and those I have not seen impress me quite as much as
the boiling cauldrons.
Henry C. Dane, Boston, Mass., 27 Aug 1885
I came from Keauhou which was a long ride. I stopped at the Volcano House until
half past 5 o'clock and went to see the volcano. It broke up once and it looked very pretty.
I then went to the new lake and after that I started back...
W.L. Peterson, 30 Aug 1885
I came, I saw, and was conquered by delight at seeing Halemaumau.
A. Rosa, 7 Sept 1885
We arrived here 10:30 and after a short rest and repast we descended into the
crater. Arrived on the north bank of the new lake, after some difficulty in finding the way
and breaking through the lava crusts from time to time. At first the whole face of the lake
seemed to be inactive and dead, but presently the crust broke up from the western bank
and the whole surface soon became one boiling cauldron and Pele revealed herself in
robes of awful majesty...
Edward Smith, 9 Aug 1885
In the above entry, the date is given as 9 Aug, but it falls between 9 Sept and 10 Sept
entries.
Illustration: Shaded pencil drawing, "View of the Little Beggar from the New Lake," by
A.F. Strasburger, 12 Dec 1885. Page 24.
Arrived at V.H. on Sat. the 12th from Hilo via Puna. Made the Mauna Loa trip in
three days.
W.M. Lee, Detroit, Mich., 2d visit, 17 Dec 1885
The above two gentlemen (Lee and Strasburger) and myself visited
Mokuaweoweo. Leaving the Volcano House at 6 a.m. on the 13th, we proceeded along
the Kilauea-Ainapo trail as far as the termination of the Kau portion of the 1881 flow
where we turned up mauka, striking the trail for Ainapo to the usual camping place where
the grass house is, about 4 miles from the latter place. I doubt however if we gained
anything by not going round by Ainapo as we did coming down, the long grass and
rougher ground being harder on the horses than the little extra distance. At the water we
again left the usual trail to our left and proceeded straight up and camped a short distance
above the last koa trees in a snug little hollow among the ohia-lehua at 2:45 p.m.; we had
no tent not having brought a pack animal but with the aid of a good fire we spent quite a
comfortable night; unfortunately we got a late start in the morning, not leaving camp until
7 a.m. We left our blankets etc. in camp only taking our lunch with us, as we intended
returning the same night and camping down by the water; we ascended but slowly the
lava between the ohia scrub and the place where we again struck the usual trail, being
very rough, from this point we reached the summit in 2 hours, in all 5 hours from camp;
at the summit we left our horses and walked across the crater which took up about an
hour. The crater was in the same condition as when last described, a little steam issuing
from two or three cracks; there was very little snow on the summit, only small patches in
cracks and corners. We stayed about an hour by the crater and then set out for our horses
again, rain however coming on. Our guide made a mistake and it was 3:20 p.m. before we
found them. In descending instead of returning by the route by which we made the
ascent, we kept to the usual track for some distance further, thinking that it would not be
so rough; darkness however overtook us and on quitting the trail we got into some
terribly rough country, so when after struggling over places we should have been scared
of in the light, we at last reached the region of sparse vegetation, we camped and finding
sufficient wood to keep up a small fire, we managed to make out the night with our
saddle blankets; fortunately it stopped raining about 7 p.m.; next morning we started at
sunrise, found our previous camp without difficulty, picked up our blankets and
provisions, and went on to the grass house, where we breakfasted and gave the horses a
rest and a chance to feed, they not having had anything to eat since the previous morning.
We started again at 9:30 a.m., reached Ainapo at 11:45 and the Volcano House about 4
o'clock. The trip is by no means a formidable one and I wonder that it is not more
frequently made. Three days are ample time unless for scientific purposes. This allows
plenty of spare time, and we travelled very slowly, two of our horses having come from
Hilo through Puna only the previous day; and yet if we had got an earlier start on the
second morning we should have made the grass house that night, and of course in the
summer the longer days give more time at the crater. I should not however recommend
parties to rely on making the times Mr. Dillingham gives on page 59 of Volume II of the
register [3 Sept 1874 entry] as I think that he has not given sufficient margin for delays,
tired horses, etc.
Clement ___, Kynnersley, Kohala, 17 Dec 1885
An asbestos rope put, today 29 Dec., into the boiling lava of the new lake, burnt
off.
Reading Capt. Dutton's book "Hawaiian Volcanoes" I find (his book so implies )
that in 1882 he descended into the crater, although the above is not implied by what he
wrote in the volcano book under date of 18 Aug. 1882. So that the descents into the crater
of Mokuaweoweo as near as I can be certain have been 1st by the Wilkes party (a few
members of it) in 1841. 2d by Messrs. Wisely and Charles Hall in 1865. 3rd by W.W.
Hall in 1873. 4th by Captain Dutton in 1882. 5th by J.U. Pea and Edwd. P. Baker, in
1885 (the last party remaining and sleeping in the crater overnight.)
On the eve of Dec. 28th a flow ran out of Halemaumau. While it may be that the
bottom of Kilauea may ere long fall out as it did in 1868, the likelihood rather is that
Kilauea is slowly building up a volcanic mountain. The new lake will in all probability
overflow before long.
Edwd. P. Baker, 30 Dec 1885
Am impressed greater than ever with the truth of Genesis I:I and the VIII Psalm.
Today Mr. J.N. Mabie our guide and genial host and myself descended into Kilauea Iki.
So far as is now known no white man before us had ever trodden on the floor of that
extinct crater. We were ably cheered and helped by the rest of our party, none of whom
dared to undertake the perilous adventure. We found the floor of the crater to be about
500 steps wide and 600 steps long. The rocks that look to be about one foot high are over
six. Feeling that future science will be greatly indebted to us for this not overwise
adventure we bid adieu to "The Eternal Burning" and betake ourselves homeward
wishing Mr. Mabie 700 visitors a month and that in shekels his name may lead all the
rest.
Rev. H.S. Jordan, Kohala, Hawaii, but bound for America, 14 Jan 1886
Arrived here Wednesday Jan. 13 '86. Have had a most enjoyable trip. Delightful
weather all the time. The Lakes have been in a magnificent state of action. The spectacle
even grander and more awe inspiring than my large imagination had provided for. I go
away a wiser and if not sadder, I am sure a humbler woman than I came. Our host and
hostess, Mr. & Mrs. Maby have done everything for our comfort and pleasure.
L. Hastie, Jan 1886
Arrived here from Hilo yesterday at 3 p.m., 6 hours from Hilo. The volcano was
more than sufficient to repay me for the trip over the beautiful roads between here and
Hilo. Went down into the crater in the afternoon, remained till 8 o'clock. Leave here for
Puna today, expect to arrive in Hilo Tuesday evening, thence to Honolulu. This is my
first visit but owing to the kind treatment received I expect to return soon.
D.P. Smith, Lynchburg, VA, 16 Jan 1886
The burning lake and Mr. Maby's chicken pot pie can't be beaten.
Abe L. Brown, San Francisco, 19 Feb 1886
May we all follow our guide to eternity as closely as we follow our guide through
this dark valley.
D.W. Beckwith, Gt. Barrington, Mass., 24 Feb 1886
I think that if Mr. Cruzan, instead of preaching sermons, on "A glimpse through
an open window into Heaven & Hell" would send his people to the volcano, and see the
new lake as it is now, he would do more good.
Alex. Young Jr., Honolulu, 25 Feb 1886
We take pleasure in adding our certificate to the foregoing of our pleasant stay at
the Volcano House and our pleasure in visiting the "Burning Lakes" this evening which
we feel assured will be long remembered by us all. To the host and hostess Mr. & Mrs.
Maby we certainly feel very grateful for the kind attention ...
Chas Rowley and party, 1 March 1886
Have just come up from the burning lakes. We sat on the edge of the new lake and
toasted our feet over the running lava below. We lit our pipes at the "Little Beggar" and
made ourselves very comfortable. We liked the crater so well that we at one time thought
of buying it and stocking it with fish but having nothing but "Kalakaua Silver" with us we
were obliged for the present at least to give up this idea. We find the host and hostess of
the Volcano House, Mr. and Mrs. Maby, very pleasant, entertaining, and obliging, and we
gratefully add our testimony to the many already expressed and wish them a long and
prosperous career.
Bruce Cartwright, Honolulu, 3 March 1886
Illustration: Several drawings: 1. Hawaiian Dollar embedded in lava. 2. Lighting pipes at
the Little Beggar. 3. Birdseye view of crater as seen from Volcano House. 4. People and
gear being erupted with volcano. Page 33.
Newspaper article: Volcanic Changes; The Bottom Drops Out of Halemaumau and New
Lake [refers to Dutton], 1886, page 34.
Here is the text of this news clipping:
VOLCANIC CHANGES. The Bottom Drops Out of Halemaumau and New Lake.
Letter describing the occurrence--Changes that have taken place in the past--A
grand volcanic display predicted.
On the arrival of the Kinau, March 14th, the report spread that the bottom had
fallen out of the Volcano, and that there was an end, for the present at least, of New Lake
and Halemaumau. Those who were unfamiliar with the habits and eccentricities of
Kilauea were greatly perturbed, but old inhabitants are aware that sudden subsidence of
the lava in the active sections of the great crater is not uncommon. Indeed, this is
regarded as the precursor of a more active state of volcanic eruption, and if the present
occurrence is not out of the usual course and the evidence of the extinction of the internal
fires of Kilauea altogether, we may confidently look forward to a still more magnificent
display at Kilauea in the near future.
Details of the Occurrence.
The following letter addressed to Hon. S.G. Wilder, by Mr. J.H. Maby, manager
of the Volcano House, dated March 8, 1886, may be regarded as an authoritative
description of the late volcanic phenomenon. Mr. Maby writes:
Since last writing there has been considerable of a change in the crater. Saturday
evening (March 6th) both the Old and New Lakes were unusually full and brilliant
looking from the House, and remained so until 9:30 p.m. of the 6th inst., at which time
there commenced a series of earthquakes, forty-three in number, lasting until 7:30 a.m. of
the 7th.
The first three were slight, and the fourth one quite severe; and on looking out
upon the crater, all fire had disappeared from the New Lake. At about 2 or 3 a.m. the fire
had also disappeared from Halemaumau. During the night, while the shaking was going
on, all hands were up in the sitting-room, not knowing what would go.
On the morning of the 7th, after the mist and smoke had cleared away, it was
discovered that all the bluffs surrounding Halemaumau had disappeared during the night.
They, and the path formerly traveled to go from the New Lake to the old one, and quite a
piece on the mountain side of the Old Lake, had all fallen away, forming one large
chasm.
There have also been several rents in the ground, one on the road to Kilauea Iki,
and three on the Keauhou road, Two of them were cracks across the road, which I have
bridged over. The other is a large hole where there was a cave, and the road bed had all
fallen in. I have cut a new path around it. No other damage has been done that I have
heard of up to writing.
Last night (March 7th) all in the crater was in total darkness, excepting a few
small lights from previous flows.
March 8th, 7 p.m.
My guide has just returned from the place of the burning lakes. There is at present
no fire to be seen. In the place where the New Lake was there is a deep hole and from
there to Halemaumau. All that part formerly used as a path from the New Lake to
Halemaumau, along with the Little Beggar, have fallen in and form a deep valley. At
Halemaumau there is no fire to be seen and no bottom.
From the account that I had from Mr. Lentz in 1880, just before the Hilo flow, the
fire disappeared there, laving a bottomless pit for a week or more, when the fire returned.
Past Doings of the Volcano
Postmaster General Whitney, who has visited the crater of Kilauea some twelve
or fifteen times during his residence of over thirty years on the Islands, informs us that
this phenomenon of the sudden extinction of the fires in Kilauea has occurred several
times. On the 2d of April, 1868, just previous to the heavy earthquakes of that month in
Kau, and of the brilliant lava flow which destroyed Captain Brown's residence at Kahuku,
the crater of Kilauea was extinguished and remained dormant for two or three weeks.
Again in June, 1877, after a very heavy earthquake which destroyed or injured houses
and stone walls in Kau, the fires of this crater were again extinguished, and remained so
some ten days. On this occasion he visited the crater, and found no fire in it. Old
"Halemaumau" consisted of a deep pit, nearly circular in form, five hundred feet across
the top, and some six hundred or perhaps eight hundred feet deep, but without a particle
of fire or smoke. Its sides were perpendicular and so steep that it would have been
impossible to descend into it, while the bottom consisted of large blocks of black lava.
The pit looked very much like a huge apothecary's mortar. The cliffs, which surrounded
the lake previous to the heavy earthquake, had all tumbled in. The extinction of the fires
of Kilauea are looked upon by the old settlers as a precursor of a large eruption on Mauna
Loa. It will be observed that the present is the third or fourth time that the fires of Kilauea
have been extinguished during the past eighteen years, and it is likely to be followed by
renewed activity of the volcano.
What the Rev. Dr. Taylor Said.
In this connection it may not be out of place to quote from notes of a trip to the
Volcano written by the Rev. James Taylor, D.D., Wakefield, England, and published in
the Advertiser, October 1885. He appears to have anticipated the recent occurrence. Dr.
Taylor wrote of his first sight of the lake of fire: "At one time the New Lake, for half a
mile or a mile in diameter, shows a row of glowing terraces or ranks of gigantic warriors,
eager for the fray. Here, at our feet, up flew great balls of fire from a score of stores,
where Vulcan keeps his rockets; there, a broad river of dazzling lava flowed into a bay, to
aid once more in filling up the huge crater, which once sank in a night more than 600 feet
down, the walls of which still stand as sharply cut as if man had designed and executed,
but which only gods and giants could plan and effectuate. This crater is a rough
parallelogram of which the east and west sides are three miles long, the north and south
ends one and a half miles each, making a circuit of nine miles. It is all again daily being
filled up by the continued streams of lava from the central furnaces below, but it is not at
all unlikely that when filled the additional weight will again cause another sinking into
the void which is being hourly created.
What Captain Clarence Edward Dutton Says.
In his valuable report on Hawaiian Volcanoes to the U.S. Geological Survey
Department, Captain C.E. Dutton, of the United States Army, gives an interesting
description of the caldera of Kilauea. The lava pool called New Lake was formed in
1882, and became enlarged by the gradual clearing off and engulfment of successive
slices of its encircling wall. Lava lakes do not, as a rule, maintain any constant position.
Five or six lakes were known in the floor of Kilauea in 1853. In 1878 a large open lake
existed near the north end of the pit, but its location is no longer discernable. There was
also a large southern lake. In truth the floor of the caldera is liable to open and become a
lava pool at any point, and the changes have been very great in historic times.
Halemaumau seems to be what remains of the great central lake of Kilauea, as seen by
Ellis in 1823. As we pass from the New Lake to Halemaumau we have abundant
evidence, Captain Dutton says, that we are treading upon the thin crust of a slumbering
volcano. Numerous cracks on either hand emit steam and sulphurous vapors. A stick
plunged into one of these cracks is soon charred. Signs of instability, such as shattering
and heaving movements, are seen all around, and the thoughts of a catastrophe are ever
before the mind.
It is this "uncanny" piece of volcanic flooring that has now given way, connecting
New Lake and Halemaumau in one great gulf. According to Captain Dutton's calculations
in 1881, the level of the liquid lava in Halemaumau and New Lake was about 435 feet
higher than the liquid lava columns as observed forty years before, and as the crater has
been steadily filling up since then, the superincumbent mass became too heavy, and the
floor gave way as Dr. Taylor anticipated last October would probably soon happen. The
energy of the volcano is never constant. It increases and diminishes from week to week
and month to month, and it is a common saying that Kilauea is never twice alike.
[End of article]
From June 20th '85 up to December 15th both the Old and New lakes were very
active in the way of boiling and surging away from one side to the other.
And in December about the 15th or 20th the new commenced to build for itself a
wall which carried the surface of the lake up to 100 or 150 higher by the first of March 86
than the surface had formerly been.
On the evening of the 6th of March at 7 p.m. both the Old Lake Halemaumau and
the New Lake were quite full of boiling and surging lava and very brilliant as seen from
the verandah of the House and continued to remain so up to 9:30 p.m. At which time
there commenced a series of earthquakes 43 in number and lasting until 7:30 a.m. After
the 3rd or 4th shake in looking out upon the crater there was nothing to be seen of the
New Lake and only a slight reflection from the Old Lake. At the hours between 2 and 3
a.m. the 7th all fire and lights in the crater had disappeared excepting a few sparks here
and there from previous flows around on the floor of the Main Crater.
At 8 a.m. on the 7th after the mist and steam had cleared away it was discovered
that all the bluffs surrounding Halemaumau that were much higher than the opposite edge
of the crater had disappeared by falling down in the lake along with the path that was
formerly used to go over from the New Lake to the Old. And the whole together with the
new lake forming a deep chasm making it look like one large lake instead of two. During
the night while the shaking was going on the ground was rent in several places. One large
crack opened up on the road to Kilauea Iki. And two on the road to Keauhou about one
and a half miles from the Volcano House.
8:30 p.m. March 7th 1886. No fire or light to be seen in the crater excepting two
small places that look like lanterns in the distance.
March 8th, 11 p.m. This p.m. at 3 o'clock the guide crossed the crater, there was
no fire to be seen, there only being two deep dark holes in place of the burning lakes.
With a deep valley running from the former new lake into Halemaumau. No fire
or light to be seen from the House excepting the two small places seen last night.
March 9th a.m. No signs of fire, smoke and steam still around the chasm. The ground or
lava still seems to be sinking.
March 10th. No fire in crater that can be seen from the House. During the shaking
here there was nothing felt at Keauhou and only 2 shakes felt at the Kapapala Ranch. 8
p.m. two tourists just returned from the crater and report no burning lava.
For the full months of March and April there was no fire to be seen in crater, only
a few cracks where the rocks were red hot. During the latter part of April there
commenced to show more signs of the fire returning by the increase of steam and smoke,
also the intense heat and the large deposits of sulphur.
no signature, 7 March 1886
The above entry was probably written by J.H. Maby
Arrived here and on reading the entries opposite up till 9 inst. we felt very much
as if Kilauea had been playing a trick on us after traveling so many thousand miles to see
a real live volcano we consider we are badly sold. Proceeded with guide on to the lava
sea and after a rough passage across reached the edge of Halemaumau and looked into
the crater. All the burning lava had disappeared and we could see steep bluffs running
down from the edge and then heaps of debris at the bottom running off towards another
hole whose depth we could not see. Close to us the edge appeared undermined and very
insecure and we were glad to move over in the direction of what had been the new lake.
The bridge which had separated the old from the new lake across which last week parties
used to cross has subsided and is now some fifty feet below the center's edge--all the lava
has run out of New Lake which is apparently of no very grand depth, perhaps four or five
hundred feet only. The "little beggar" had practically disappeared, split in two and
subsided below the present level of the crater's edge. Here the crust of lava seems
extremely honey-combed and we came upon one good bit of fire glowing below a red hot
furnace and exposed by the caving in of a portion of its roof--from this opening a passage
under the lava seemed to lead right into the New Lake. Quantities of steam and light
columns smoke rose from different parts of the volcano but no fire and we could hear the
rumbling occasioned by stones falling down the precipice. Facing us, on the south side,
an extensive lava slip had occurred and this was evidently still settling. Mr. Maby tells us
that when the Lakes were in existence their surface was several hundred feet above the
level of the old lava crust whereon we stood and on the left of the Old Lake high bluffs
used to rise and projecting from these was the ledge on which he used to lead tourists to
view Halemaumau--all this has been engulfed and it is a mercy no tourists were
thereabouts on the 6th inst.
11 March 1886. Thinking the edges of the crater unsafe we proceeded today
round the bluffs to the westward, accompanied by Mr. Maby our guide. From various
points we had good views of the crater which Mr. Maby says has utterly changed in
appearance. The old and new lakes are knocked into one and their joint circumference
appears to be about 4 miles. We proceeded until we reached the bluffs exactly opposite
the Volcano House and intended getting down to the lava and returning across it home,
but on arriving at this point, although some 300 or 400 feet above the level of the crater,
we found the walking very insecure. Cracks, evidently caused by the shocks of the
earthquake, appeared on the surface, the whole earth sounded hollow when stamped upon
and when one of our party fell in up to the thigh, the earth suddenly giving way under
him, we thought it time to return by the road we had come. At the far end of the volcano
the bluffs have been split and we could see steam issuing in several places out of the
ground, which Mr. Maby tells us is quite new and as the hole in the center appears
deepest at this end and there is a well marked line of discoloured lava leading to the
fissure in the bluff, it seems likely to us that the lava has flowed away underground in this
direction. In the meantime a party had gone down on to the lava and made the circuit of
the crater on the edge. They report the fire all gone and many parts of the present edge
rapidly subsiding. Is it possible that Kilauea has become extinct? If so all we can say is
we wish it had remained alive until our arrival.
We took the outline of the present crater edge--I from Volcano House and II and
III from the W. and S.
R.E. Finley, Sydney, N.S.W., 10 March 1886
Illustration: Three map outlines of Halemaumau, 14 March 1886, from different
standpoints, R.E. Finley. Page 38.
The above description needs no addition and I have only to endorse it.
Chas. Putnam, Lexington, Mass., March 1866
I today descended to within 50 feet of the bottom of Halemaumau. The very
bottom is (or was at the time I saw it) the cooled surface of the Halemaumau lake. The
space at the bottom was very small indeed, only a few feet square. The sides of the
immense chasm have fallen in almost uniformly all round, the result being that the stone
sides of Halemaumau may be (or could be) best likened to the converging sides of a
tunnel, which come obliquely near together, leaving only a small hole at the bottom. The
sides of Halemaumau were shooting stones down to the bottom, so that it would have ben
rather hazardous for a human being to have gone down to that small space to be shot at
by big boulders from all directions. The aneroid I had with me indicated the depth I
reached in Halemaumau to be 700 feet below the Volcano House (the same aneroid
indicating the depth, below the Volcano House, of the portion of the floor of Kilauea,
which the trail first touches, to be 450 feet. I saw no redness of fire in Halemaumau. The
bottom of the former new lake is far far shallower than that of Halemaumau. The bottom
of the new lake being only a little lower than the level of the bluff, whence the traveller
starts to descend Halemaumau.
On Wednesday 17 March I crossed Kilauea, ascended the southern rim of the
crater and went straight to Puu Kolu: a red hill which travelers going from Kilauea to
Kapapala descry on the left (the 1st we thus descried). No sign of any issuing smoke
could be seen in any direction. The whole region was in its usual condition. The steam
cracks were feebly smoking as ever. Where is the lava which has departed from Kilauea?
Echo answers when some future report from the Puna seacoast may give answer.
Meanwhile we can think of it as having entered and cooled in underground cavities and
channels. No one should dogmatize, but the experience of 1868, along with the fact that
the fires of Kilauea are not known to have found vent in any other place, give fair reason
for hoping, perhaps believing, that these fires will return to their old hearth-stone.
The earthquakes of Saturday evening (6 o'clock) are believed by Mr. Maby
(Manager of the Volcano House) to have been produced by the falling of huge rockmasses into the emptied lake chasms of Halemaumau and New Lake. This can hardly be
otherwise. The falling and crashing of huge rock-masses down the sides of Halemaumau
must have been simply awful. Locomotion among these titanic fragments was fairly
frightful. The descent into Mokuaweoweo of some months ago, I found to be rather less
dangerous, on the whole, than today's descent into Halemaumau.
Edwd. P. Baker, 18 March 1886
Arrived March 21, 1886. Left March 23. Have seen the ruins of the house that
Pele built. Hope she will return and rebuild.
Daniel Logan, Editor Daily Bulletin, 23 March 1886
The Art and Historic party, consisting of Messrs. Theo Severin, photographic
artist representing J. Williams, Honolulu, Daniel Logan, Editor of Daily Bulletin,
Honolulu, and the writer, in the interest of several local and foreign journals hastened
from Honolulu to the scene of Pele's erratic freaks on learning of the recent disappearance
of volcanic activity and falling-in of the lakes on the night of the 6th inst.
Arrived at the Volcano House via Punaluu on the afternoon of the 21st in a
drizzling rain and found the crater and sulphur banks completely enveloped in steam.
During the evening the rain ceased but the crater bed and sunken lakes emitted steam
from its thousand cracks and fissures so much as to obstruct the view of the field. The
22nd opened clear and with much less steam from the many directions previously
noticed. After breakfast, accompanied by Mr. Maby and the guide, we set out for the
day's observation by going around to the bluffs on the west side of the crater, then down
on to a lower ledge abreast of Halemaumau's ruins, from which point four commanding
views were obtained by the artist. We then climbed back again to continue on our way
southward, traversing the banks of ashes and sand till we reached a place free from rocks
and boulders where we descended into the crater by jumps and slides, and made our way
to the pit of destruction and desolation, obtaining our first near view from the south edge,
near several cones that form, at present, a principal feature of the locality and where
much heat and steam was observable. While our artist was obtaining two views from this
point our guide was firing his stick at a crevice a few feet behind us. Thence we came
around the western side of the pit where two broken cones were examined. These gave
forth much heat but no steam. Judging from their shape and the incrustations on what
remained of the orifices these may have been blow-holes, but now they gave forth
soundless waves of heat. Both these cones were broken in halves, the southern half
standing. Later observations of five others showed breaks in the same direction from
three, while the other two were broken more in a N.W. and S.E. direction, but still with
the northern half gone. This may be coincident only, and yet it may have an important
bearing in aid of a solution of the mysterious disappearance of the liquid lava, especially
when coupled with the fact that the recent fissures run mostly in a N.W. and S. Easterly
direction. Continuing our detour we came to the north edge, abreast of where
Halemaumau stood. Here two more photo-views were taken. Thence we felt our way,
cautiously around to the "Little Beggar" location, then further to the eastward on the New
Lake side. Here the greatest heat was observable, and thick waves of heat emitted from
fissures told us that fire was at no great distance. At one of the broken cones visited here
the glow of red hot lava was seen, but it was motionless. In another similar cone, but
where no red glow was seen, a shoe, thrown in by the guide, blazed in ten seconds.
The pit, as viewed from our several points of observation, showed Halemaumau
to have sunk some 600 or 700 feet and the rush of lava from it has drained off New Lake,
for the latter seems but about 150 feet in depth at its deepest part on the south side. At the
withdrawal of this bed of molten lava connecting the two lakes the roadway, that used to
serve visitors from one to the other and which seems to have been a bridge, dropped
down almost bodily, with its incline toward the east, leaving its highest and most abrupt
break on the Halemaumau side. A peculiar feature of the chasm of Halemaumau is that
what at a short distance seems solid, perpendicular walls are the most burnt-out portions,
the material resembling a red ash or sandy nature, while the most crumbling and shelving
portion of its sides are the lava rocks of various sizes, but having for the most part a
decidedly burnt-out appearance. This impressed the writer with the idea that
Halemaumau would not again be the scene of volcanic activity, the rocks having no
appearance of fusibility, but that if activity returns--as it has several times before--it will
be at a point eastward of where New Lake stood, and if so, the lava-flows from it will
obliterate the extent of the recent ruins.
Another peculiar feature during this absence of volcanic activity is the prevalence
of steam all over the floor of the crater during rain, which did not occur at any time of
rain while the lakes were active; nor was there so much steam observable around the
bluffs.
Two days later I accompanied Mr. Severin, guide and assistant again into the
crater, making careful observations around while they descended into the pit for further
views. They got down the second ledge on the east side of the Halemaumau chasm which
he (Mr. S.) judged to be 150 feet from the bottom. There was not so many evidences of
near fire as was noticed one the first visit though one of the locations to the eastward of
New Lake was as strong as ever in emitting heat waves, while the other I found to have
caved-in, revealing a tube or tunnel about 10 feet diameter running N.W. and S.E., its
heat coming from the easterly portion. On our way homeward we had the satisfaction of
firing our sticks at a crack near the path, by overturning a few fragments of rock.
Respecting the shocks of earthquake reported by Mr. Maby and others on the
night of the 6th inst., I take the liberty of noting what seems to me a reasonable solution.
The natural first impression to the mind would be that the earthquakes caused the rents
and falling in of the bluffs and banks of the lakes, but visiting them I find sufficient fallen
mass to cause and account not only for the shocks and reports recorded by Mr. Maby in
this journal, but sufficient to cause earth tremors the vibrations of which might readily be
felt at Kapapala. And the shock of these falling cliffs is sufficient to cause all the fissures
so far reported.
I am led to this view from the fact that the shocks were comparatively local,
whereas an earthquake sufficient to hurl such masses of rock from their beds would have
extended its vibrations with as much, or more, force than did the noted earthquake of
1868.
But the mystery still remains: where has all the immense body of liquid lava that
filled these lakes and tunnels gone? I bow reverently to the truth of man's inability to
grasp and solve God's mysterious and wonderful workings in Nature. There are some
things which He has hidden for some all-wise purpose.
T.G. Thrum, Honolulu, 25 March 1886
On the morning of the 25th I descended into the very bottom of the new lake,
where I made several views. It was a very dangerous undertaking but curiosity forced me
on, and I doubt if I shall ever forget my experience there, while the high walls were
caving in and numerous large boulders falling thick and fast about me.
On the following day I again paid a visit to the New Lake, but this time I was
satisfied by viewing it from the top of the high bluff. I noticed that the floating island
which was in its natural position yesterday had fallen down into the very identical spot
where I stood only the morning before.
I saw fire in several new places. I think it very unsafe to go on the lava as it is still
caving in. I think I have succeeded in securing a good likeness of H.T. Majesty Pele
which can be seen at the Art Studio of Mr. J.J. Williams.
Theodore P. Severin, One of the art and historic party, 26 March 1886
Have just returned from the empty caldron. Halemaumau has filled up very much
since the lava disappeared so much so that the estimated depth is not more than 350 feet.
The bottom is an irregular, level place of perhaps 100 sq. ft. area and dense smoke issues
therefrom. Descended some 100 feet or so into the pit, did not consider it worth while to
run the risks attending a descent to the bottom. Made a complete circuit of the pits and
returned to the Volcano House after an absence of several hours.
J.N.S. Williams, Honolulu, 29 March 1886
The one word which to my apprehension better than any other describes the
utmost bottom of New Lake, and the bottom in fact of all craters I have ever caught sight
of, including Vesuvius and source of 1880-81 Maunaloa flow, is crevices. The utmost
bottom of New Lake dwindled or seemed to into minute orifices or cracks. This proves
nothing; however it looks in the direction of the idea of the convective material
conveying the heat upward being gaseous substance subjected to enormous pressure.
Edwd. P. Baker, 21 April 1886
This a.m. at 3:30 the fire was noticed to have returned to its old place in
Halemaumau. There being quite a bright reflection to be seen in both the steam and
smoke rising out of the chasm of Halemaumau. But no fire visible.
no signature, 8 May 1886
Reappearance of a boiling lava lake in the crater.
no signature, 1 June 1886
The above two entries were probably written by Maby.
There was a bright reflection showing up from the chasm on the smoke, steam,
and clouds, hanging above the crater commencing at 7:30 p.m. and lasting all night. At 8
p.m. sent 2 guides down, they returned at 10:30 p.m. and reported that the hole that had
formed on the night of May the 8th from which issued the first reflection seen from the
crater since the disappearance of the fire on the night of March 6th, the hole which was
only 3 or 4 foot in diameter had increased to about 50 feet.
June 2. The reflection seen all night from the House. June 3, also seen through the
night. June 4th sent 2 tourists down with the guides, they not wishing to approach the
hole from which the reflection was seen not thinking it safe travelling. One of the guides
descended to the edge at a point from where he could look into the hole and could see a
lake of boiling lava about 50 feet below him.
June 5, reflection seen from the house during the night.
June 6. Sent two guides down, they descending to the edge at the opening and
seen the lake still boiling and it was considerable larger than the opening into which they
were looking. They also report that the bottom of Halemaumau had commenced smoking
again and the heat was becoming more intense and the lake throwing up large quantities
of Pele's hair. The road down to the opening not being safe for ladies to descend.
J.H. Maby, 1 June 1886
The lava is evidently back in Halemaumau. One pit is on the east side about 50
feet wide, and one can hear the swishing of the lava against the sides, while a sight of the
melted lava itself is not easily attained because the dense fumes of sulphur make it
unpleasant to stand at the opening. Farther to the northeast the fumes of sulphur are even
more abundant, pouring out at several points, as if another pit were to be opened soon.
Descended also to the bottom of the old Halemaumau called the "bottomless pit." a trip to
Keanakakoi (wrongly called Kilauea Iki by Dutton) shows a wide spread area of volcanic
sand and pebbles--and a similar deposit is traceable far to the SE ____, covering an area
larger than the whole caldera of Kilauea. A few lava bombs were picked up in this area
also, indicating more violent action than is common in late years or during the present
century.
A visit to Pahala Hilea, Honuapo, Waiohinu, etc., indicates that the so-called
terraces of marine origin (see Dutton's report) are analogous to the material called Loess
in the Mississippi Valley (U.S.A.), and consequently are not marine. If the sea had been
concerned in their formation there would certainly have been coral reefs or domes to
mark the former presence of the salt water. The position of this loess is rather more
favorable to Pumpelly's theory than the ordinary one--i.e., that the material has been
accumulated by wind. Also visited the 1868 flow at Kahuku--than which there is no more
interesting volcanic phenomenon in Hawaii.
C.H. Hitchcock, Dartmouth College, New Hampshire, 14 June 1886
Smoke from Halemaumau has for days and weeks been growing denser and
heavier. It was remarked a few days hence in Kau that the smoke of Kilauea was very
heavy. Fire also showed up from Halemaumau on the even of 15 June, so that it is
confidently expected that the molten lava will be back in Kilauea ere long.
In company with Prof. Hitchcock picked up what seemed volcanic bombs on
south side of Kilauea. Discharged apparently in ancient times from the small crater south
of Kilauea Iki. The Volcano House is being very neatly and comfortably fixed up for the
reception of guests, and the likelihood is that with the return of the fire large numbers
will visit this wonder of the world.
Edwd. P. Baker, 15 June 1886
Tourists wishing to visit the famous volcano of Kilauea can now make the trip
from Honolulu with all the ease and comfort possible under the circumstances. Procure a
ticket of the Wilder Steamship Co. and you will be landed at Keauhou only fourteen
miles from the volcano. This part of the journey is made in the saddle or in a carriage as
parties may desire. Nearly all the way a well graded road runs through a tropical forest,
the beauties and rarities of which are a source of constant surprise and enjoyment. In fact,
the three or four hours occupied in the ride is only too brief for the pleasure offered, and
we arrive at the Volcano House, not jaded and worn as is too often the case in seeking the
rare and wonderful in nature, but actually refreshed by the ride. With the present
arrangements for transporting passengers from the landing to the volcano no one need
hesitate about undertaking the journey. Our party of nine not only enjoyed every moment
of the time we were on the way but were surprised at the excellent accommodations
awaiting us at the Volcano House. Everything was done to make the visit enjoyable and
we leave feeling that if anyone grumbles at our reception and entertainment, he should be
sent to the regions of Pluto by way of "The Little Beggar." As for the object of our
journey, the volcano, I say nothing. The sentimental may gush and the scientific may
speculate, but there are things in this world of ours which are so far beyond any
expression of emotion or even the comprehension of human knowledge that we simply
wish to bow before them in reverence, with uncovered heads, and acknowledge the
Infinite who created them. The volcano of Kilauea is one of them and we have no desire
to belittle it by description or explanation.
J.B. McChesney, Oakland, Cal., 17 June 1886
Arrived at the Volcano House Wednesday June 16th with Hon. S.G. Wilder and
party. Thursday 17th visited the scene of the late break down, and found considerable
smoke and steam issuing from the lava rock in the west pit. It may be remarked that the
two large pits now in the floor of the crater occupy the former sites of Halemaumau on
the west and the New Lake on the east. The pits are irregularly circular in outline, the
west pit measuring probably one half mile in diameter, the east pit about one half as
large. The center of the west pit is occupied by the shattered rim of the former walls of
Halemaumau. From the perpendicular walls of the sides of the west pit which are about
300 feet in height, the broken rocks slope gradually up to the ragged edges of
Halemaumau on all sides. On the west side this ragged edge is connected with the side
walls by a ridge of broken rock from which was issuing a dense cloud of sulphur fumes
the deposit from which coloring the rocks a bright yellow. The bottom of the space
enclosed by the broken rim of Halemaumau could not be seen, being below the line of
sight from where we stand on the north bank of the west pit. One the east side of
Halemaumau's rim dense clouds of mingled smoke and steam were rising, and at a point
in the side wall on that (the east) side a vent hole was emitting intensely hot bluish
vapors.
The space between the west pit already described and the east pit is marked by a
partly sunken peninsula on which the original surface of the lava bed covering the whole
floor of the crater is but little disturbed. This peninsula has perhaps been formed by a
gradual sinking of the mass. Where the sunken portion joins the unchanged portion of the
crater floor on the south side, it rises to near the level of the floor and has broken off
sharply, leaving a "neck" of the original floor between the two pits. This neck is sharply
defined, its east and west sides which are curved in correspondence with the circular form
of the pits, and its end from which the sunken peninsula spoken of has broken off being
perpendicular. The eastern (and smaller) of the two pits is also roughly circular in shape,
its walls all around being perpendicular, excepting on the northwest side. There it is
completed by the east side of the partly sunken peninsula, and is made up of the loose
rocks piled in a rough slope. In the center of this pit is a remarkable mass of lava whose
surface is vitrified and smooth in every part. It is about 100 feet in height, irregularly
circular in shape, being about 100 feet in diameter at its base, and having a large central
cavity. All of its outlines are rounded and melted into smooth curves, and the whole
appearance of the mass indicates that it has been subjected to most intense heat. There is
no other mass in the crater, so far as known, that resembles it.
In the northwest angle of the east pit, when it joins the sunken peninsula, there is a
tunnel just under the surface of the crater floor the roof of which is partly broken through
for a short distance back from the edge of the pit. On the extreme edge of this tunnel just
where it opens into the pit stands a rugged, broken chimney which is all that is left of
what was known as the "Little Beggar." There was considerable heat issuing from this
tunnel but this did not prevent some of our party from descending into the open part of
the tunnel and from the remains of the roof obtaining fine white stalactites composed of
various sublimed salts of various kinds. Other specimens were obtained from broken
bubbles in the floor of the crater. On the way over to the point of observation opposite
Halemaumau cracks in the solid lava were crossed where the red hot rocks could be seen
about 3 feet below the surface. The party spent about an hour at the two pits and then
returned to the Volcano House, deeply interested in all they had seen and fully repaid for
their walk. The opinion of those familiar with the workings of the lava in Kilauea was
that before many days the liquid lava would be again visible.
Note: The vitrified cone spoken of as now resting in the bottom of the east pit is what is
left of what was known as the "Floating Island" which existed in the New Lake at the
time of the break down.
The appearance of the vapors and smoke over the break down did not materially
change from the time of the above visit until the night of the 25th inst., when the light
from the fires below (which have been almost continually visible since the first of the
month) was much more brilliant. With the guide Malo I left the Volcano House at 6:40
p.m. and reached the edge of the pit at 8:25 (one hour forty-five minutes). Found that the
fire was in the bottom of Halemaumau, on the east bank, and in the side wall on the east
side. It was evident that the boiling lava was moving to and fro deep down in the west pit.
The action of the active points was intermittent. When Halemaumau lit up the vent in the
east wall was quiet and its fires almost extinct (apparently). When Halemaumau would
subside and the east vent became brilliant. At such times we could see bright red patches
open in the bottom of the vent, and every appearance of liquid lava. In the rim between
those two dense volumes of sulphur smoke was rising, now and then brightly illuminated
by the fires below. An occasional explosion and rumble showed that the process of
change was going on. In the vicinity the heat from the cracks has much increased, the
sides of the rocks in the crevices we had passed over on the 17th being red hot to the
surface. Heat cracks were also met with on the trail over the lava. Left the break down at
9 o'clock and reached the House at 10:10.
On the 26th visited the pits again. Left the House at 2 p.m. Friday, wind from the
southwest blowing the sulphur vapors over the point of observation opposite
Halemaumau so that I could not get a view from that point. Considerable smoke from
Halemaumau and dense volumes from the east rim. From that point successive
explosions of gases projected heavy masses of white vapor into the air, and now and then
jets of light blue smoke. In the lower part, these puffs were reddened by the flames or
lava below. The vent in the east wall was bare, and showed calcined rocks and intensely
heated masses. At night this vent would probably glow with the heat. The swish and
grumble of the lava could be distinctly heard and now and then slight shocks felt. The
west pit was perfectly quiet.
In going to and returning from the pits new hot cracks were found on the west
side of the trail, and close to it. There seems to be a line of activity close to the surface of
the floor of the crater, extending from a point in the N.West wall of the crater (where the
lava overflowed at one time from Kilauea Iki into the crater) to the present break down.
All along this line there are hot cracks, and on the 26th there was steam issuing from two
of these cracks at a point about midway between the Kilauea Iki overflow and the pits,
and about 200 paces to the west of the trail.
Monday, June 28th. Went into the crater this a.m. Left the House at 8:45 and
returned again at 12:45. Went to the standpoint opposite Halemaumau. Found the action
in this (west) pit as in the diagram. [Here has drawn a diagram showing Halemaumau and
related features.] After viewing the west pit went around the circumference of the East Pit
(where the New Lake was formerly) to the S.E. bank. There saw that the "very hot vent
with liquid lava" of the diagram was an irregular cavity in the edge of the sunken portion
of the former floor of the crater. Intensely hot vapor was being blown from this vent, and
the liquid lava could be heard surging to and fro in its depths. There was no action visible
in Halemaumau itself, but its west, north, and east rim was pouring out steam and sulphur
fumes. At A & B on the southeast part of the crater floor within 50 or 100 feet of the edge
of the pit were cones emitting very hot air and sulphur fumes. The cooled lava on this
portion of the crater floor had evidently been poured out when very hot, having formed
broad sheets and folds over the old lava. There are plenty of tunnels and but a little of the
rounded masses of lava crossed in going to the pits. This surface is very brittle and the
traveller breaks through most alarmingly often. Quite a mass from the south wall of the
East pit has separated from the rest and fallen into the East pit near the narrow neck
partly dividing the two pits on the S.E. side. The lava close to the point marked A was
overlaid with a soft "tufa" quite pasty and argilaceous, and at one vent this "tufa" was
coated with sulphur crystals forming at the time of my visit. There is plenty of scoria as
light as pumice with largely honeycombed. As this point is as near as any to the long sand
spit extending into the crater on the SE it may be that the earthy material from there has
become mixed with the lava. Fine day. Wind from NE & E. On the way back noticed that
the line of "hot cracks" in the floor of the crater extended from the pits NE to near the
walls of the crater opposite the overflow from Kilauea-iki. The steam vent in this line,
nearest the NE wall, which has been visible from the house every day since the break
down, is quiet today.
Note: The term "crater" as used by me denotes the whole area of Kilauea. As long
as the depressions exist they should be designated as "pits," and points of action in them
as "vents," "chimneys," "lakes" or anything else but "crater" as the indiscriminate use of
that word leads to confusion in past records.
Tuesday, June 29th, Went into the crater with Mr. Maby and guide. Left the house
at 3:30 p.m. this afternoon. Reached the rim of the pit and went down in. Found the ruins
of "The Little Beggar" in the NE edge of the west pit, close to the rim of the break down.
Exists now as a half cone which can be looked into from the west side to a depth of at
least 75 feet. Track lay over the surface of the break down, the old trail on that portion of
the sunken floor between the two pits being quite clearly seen. The west edge of this
sunken portion breaks off abruptly to a lower level made of the old floor. Passing over
this lower level--estimated to be 100 feet below the floor of the crater we reached the
edge of a still lower break down, and in this found the active chasm in the bottom of
which was heard the liquid lava surging and swishing. From this vent quantities of Pele's
hair was blown up from time to time. This hole was only about 50 feet in diameter, with
perpendicular sides of calcius rock. We could look down about 75 feet but could not see
the lava. Towards the south we found another hole deep down in the chasm in which the
lava could be seen rushing along like a rapid mountain stream in the direction of
Halemaumau. In the bank opposite our standpoint thick volumes of sulphur fumes poured
out preventing our near approach on the SW side. Going back to the lower ledge near the
hot vent spoken of we made our way down to the base of the Halemaumau rim and up
and over this rugged space and so down into Halemaumau itself. From the edge of the
rim we could see the lake of lava below, and by going down about half way could get a
good view of the whole of the interior. The following diagram gives the shape of the lake.
[Here he has drawn a map view of the lake with measurements.]. Our guide (Malo) went
to the edge of the lake to procure specimens, and finding the lava cooled at the point A,
he ran across to B where the liquid lava was oozing out from under the crust (only about
3 inches thick) which covered the whole surface. At B on the edge of the lake he found
liquid lava but was dismayed by the hot gases which rushed out from a crack in the bank
near him with a sound exactly like the "blowing off" of a steam boiler under a pressure of
about 100 lbs, and so he ran back. He had to move very quickly as the surface over which
he moved was very hot. We counted his steps going and coming (75) which at 3 feet to
the step would make the lake in this part, 225 feet wide. The guide then ran the other
way, from C to D for a lively mass of lava at D, 145 steps which would make the length
of the lake 435 feet. The surface area was something like 2 acres in extent. The cooled
crust was traversed by long cracks __ in places so as to show its thickness and the hot
lava underneath. The encircling rim of this lake, made up of cone mix is about 200 feet
above the lake. From the lake fine specimens of lava have been obtained with coins, keys,
etc. imbedded--the first that have been obtained since the break down of March 6th.
[Here he has a cross-sectional drawing titled "Line NE & SW through the West Pit."]
The above outline shows our track over the break down to the point A from which
we returned. Covered the lava floor of the crater in 35 minutes and reached the Volcano
House at 8:30 p.m. At 8 p.m. the whole of the west pit was brilliantly illuminated for a
few minutes. Probably a break up of the crust in Halemaumau lake.
[Here he has a drawing of Halemaumau and related features, map view with perspective.]
Friday, July 2. Visited the Pits this a.m. Left the house at 8:35, misty rain. Went
around to the north side of West Pit and looked into Halemaumau from the usual point of
view at the flagstaff. Fully one half of the lake in Halemaumau to be seen! The clouds of
sulphur vapors and steam covered the pits at times, but I had a dozen good views of the
lake while making a sketch. In an hour the surface broke up four times revealing the
liquid lava which boiled and rolled to and fro. The sight was a fine one. The opening on
the west side of the rim (outside) was pouring out dense volumes of white smoke--no
sulphur. Above this active point four "slides" of loose material on the outside face of the
rim took place while I was there. The sulphur vent in the west side of the break down was
quite active as was the large sulphur pit in the E. external bank of Halemaumau. The hot
vent still further to the east was emitting blue vapor as usual. No action whatever in the
East Pit. The edge of the Halemaumau crater is depressed at the N side when the lake is
seen. The distance from the N edge of the floor of the crater across the lava, by the
present trail, to the N edge of the West Pit is a trifle over one mile as estimated by pacing.
From the first point reached, near the "Little Beggar" ruins, around rim of the West Pit to
opposite Halemaumau is about 1000 feet.
Sunday, July 4, 1886. Went into the crater with the two guides (Malo and
Kalikini) and Ah Tai the Chinese cook. Left the house at 10:40 and returned at 5:15. The
trail over the "break down" is quite well defined, but in the West Pit, going down to the
base of the Halemaumau cone, and up and over into Halemaumau is still very rough. The
"East Vent" was active as usual the liquid lava visible at a depth of 250 feet (est.) rushing
with great force and velocity in a very liquid stream through a tunnel in the direction of
Halemaumau. The "sulphur vent" in the east rim of Halemaumau (outside) was not quite
as active as seen heretofore.
Halemaumau Lake we found had risen considerably since June 29th. The center
area seen by Mr. Maby and myself has risen easily about 75 feet to the level of the
"stream" or "gas jet" in the N.E. wall previously noted. This flow had not changed in
appearance or dimensions at all. It is smooth and very free from cracks. All around its
edge the lava has flowed out at different times and the result is that the bed of lava is
shaped as a table with sloping sides.
[Here he has a drawing of Halemaumau in plan and profile, showing the levels at June
29, July 4, and July 9 of 1886.]
The stream or outbreak marked No. 1 was in action when we arrived at the pit,
and soon after that ceased. No. 2 broke out partly filling in the N.E. slope. This was
followed by another outpouring from the same source completing the job. The sight was
a magnificent one the lava being very liquid. Several good "coin" specimens were
obtained though the heat was intense.
July 6, 1886. Went into the crater with Major Weeks and the guide (Malo). Went
around to point of view N of Halemaumau. Two-thirds of lake in crater visible from this
point. Open, red-hot pits visible. Route into the west pit as usual. Found the sides of the
active hot vent, in the east side of the west pit, fallen in and hole filled half with rocks but
little vapor, and that of sulphur, issuing from hole. The sulphur vent between this hole
and the east side of Halemaumau, was very active, and beyond this vent toward the south
was a hole in the bottom of which the lava could be seen rushing furiously in the
direction of Halemaumau. (Similar to the vent spoken of at bottom of page 58.)
Then visited the site of the former "Old Lake". (See diagram page 61). There
found the south wall very smooth and formed of layers of compact--and in the lower part
ancient--lava. Found some new varieties of lava in the bottom of this pit. (For sketch of
this wall see the large sketch book.) Came out of west pit and went around on old floor of
crater to the south side. Also visited the point of the sand spit. (A very interesting portion
of the crater.) Obtained fine specimens (including a quantity of "Pele's hair") and reached
the house again at 6 p.m.
July 1 1866. The illumination from the West Lake was very bright, and over the
pit hung a dark cloud brightly reflecting the fire below. The two gentlemen Messrs.
Clauser and Taylor (whose names are written above) went into the crater today with the
guide Malo. It was rather a rainy day, but the visitors had a fine view of the liquid lava in
Halemaumau. They obtained some good "coin" specimens. Reflection tonight at 9 p.m.
very brilliant. The finest show since the 8th of March last.
July 9, 1886. In the crater today with the guide (Kalekini) visited Halemaumau
lake. Surface considerably enlarged. But little action going on. The small vent in the N.E.
corner has poured out a large volume of lava on to the floor of the lake. The liquid lava
working violently in the vents on the west side of the outside rim of Halemaumau.
Visited the bottom of the south side of the West pit (under the cliff sketched in the large
book.) Found very compact, ancient lava. Went around on the edge of the West pit (on
the old floor of the crater) to the S West side. Large vents, break-downs, and caves.
Collected fine specimens. Returned at 5 p.m.
[Here he has a map view of Halemaumau lake, showing the area of the lake on June 29,
July 4, and July 9 of 1886.]
Sunday July 11, 1886. Went into crater today with Mr. Cramer. No liquid lava
visible in Halemaumau but there has been a flow from the vent in the NW side since the
9th. Vent in the east (outside) slope very active, as well as the sulphur pit on that side.
Went across the floor of the crater to the east bank and visited the old crater of
Keanakakoi, found it as described by Prof. Hitchcock. Recrossed the floor of the crater to
the front of the slope where the road out of the crater begins. Found that the NE section
of the crater floor much broken up by lava vents "bubbles" etc. Retd to the V House at 5
p.m.
July 13, 1886. This a.m. at 3:00 reflection over the break down very brilliant,
especially on the west side. Went into the crater at 9 a.m. with the guide (Malo). Found
that two lakes had formed under the west wall, outside of the Halemaumau crater. From
the north bank, near the flagstaff opposite Halemaumau, one of the lakes is to be seen
very plainly. The other is further around toward the south, and both can be seen from a
point opposite the pillar of lava standing near the brink a little west of the flagstaff. A
splendid fountain of blood red lava was playing in the first lake seen, throwing up jets
and gouts of hot lava some six or eight feet. The surface of the lake was broken every few
minutes and a wave of liquid lava would spread over the surface. The second lake was
found to be separated from the first by a narrow line of loose debris which had fallen
from the west bank. This break down has occurred since the 11th (last Sunday) and the
probabilities are that what are now two lakes was originally one, divided by this debris
fall. By going around to the N west and west side of the bank down one could view both
lakes. Action in them was about alike, but the impression left was that the "second" lake
(the one to the southward) was the highest. The recent cave of the bank into the lake was
accompanied by a sinking of the floor of the crater in a line back from the brink for about
300 feet.
Continued on around to the south and southeast, crossing the sunken floor of the
crater and visited the long sand bank on the southeast. Thence across the new lava to the
south wall of Kilauea which at the point we visited is not more than 40 feet above the
new lava. Another thickness of lava equal to the last (poured out in 1885) would bring the
surface high enough to overflow towards Kau as it did in prehistoric times. Returned by
the same route to the north side of the break down and found the "West Lakes" (as the
two new ones should be called) as active as ever. If they remain active for any length of
time, they must unite in one, and then the lava will naturally flow into the deep valley
between the north bank and the outer slope of Halemaumau. The lava in Halemaumau is
rising though there was no action visible in that crater today. The chimney on the east
bank of Halemaumau was roaring, showing the presence in its depths of liquid lava as
usual. Fine day. Returned at 5 p.m.
Wed., July 14, 1886. Went into the crater with party from Honolulu (with Kinau
today). Left V. house at 6:30 a.m. (5 ladies, 6 gentlemen). Fine night. Full moon. Found
the lakes in west part of West Pit rather quiet. Small fountain in first lake throwing up
occasional jets. At 10 p.m. whole surface of first lake broke up. Second lake boiling
considerably. Fire in the sulphur cone in the west (outside) bank of Halemaumau. Lava
apparently near the surface. Reached the Volcano House again at midnight. No need to
use the lanterns crossing the crater. Bright moon.
Thurs., July 15, 1886. The ladies and gentlemen at the Volcano House went into
the crater this afternoon leaving the house at 3:30 with the two guides. On arriving at the
station on the north of Halemaumau found the two lakes on the west side quiet and the
sulphur jets pouring out volumes of vapor. The vent in the east side of the west pit has
enlarged its area, and was at work as usual. As darkness came on the light from the liquid
lava began to show at points on the lakes and by 7 o'clock the further lake of the two was
quite bright at intervals. A vapor vent formed under the west wall and the heated gases
from below rushed through the opening carrying jets and sprays of lava into the air. On
the opposite side a fountain of fire commenced working and at 8 o'clock the whole
surface of the lake broke up and flowed over in sheets and waves of brilliantly hot lava.
The massive, perpendicular wall of the pit on the southwest was lit up by the radiance
from the molten lava, and the dense vapors that whirled about the lake were tinged with
splendid color. The exhibition lasted about ten minutes and then the surface cooled over
again.
Well satisfied with the display the party returned to the Volcano House which was
reached at 10 p.m.
Friday, July 16, 1886. This morning a party of twelve start for Keauhou. In
bidding goodbye to the caldera of Kilauea, I can only add that the attention and care
bestowed by the manager Mr. Maby and his amiable wife, add much to the pleasure of a
visit to this marvelous place. I have spent four weeks here and had every attention, and
obtained much valuable and interesting information and data from which to compile
some facts relating to the caldera of Kilauea which it is to be hoped will not be without
interest to the traveling public.
F.L. Clarke, 27 June 1886
We do not have the large sketch book referred to in the above entry.
Illustrations:
Rough perspective sketch of Halemaumau, 28 June 1886, with features labelled, mostly
location of fumes. Page 58.
Two drawings, F.L. Clarke: 1. Map of outline of Halemaumau, showing length and
width. 2. Cross section of Kiluaea, showing Little Beggar, active cone, sulphur areas, and
the molten lake with dotted lines to show former levels. Page 60.
Three drawings, F.L. Clarke: 1. Shaded relief map of Halemaumau, showing Little
Beggar, Lakes of 12 July 1886, and Remains of Floating Island. 2. Map of Halemaumau
Lake, showing features including its extent on 4 July and 9 July 1886. 3. Cross-section of
Drawing 2 above, and level on 29 June 1886. Page 61.
Map of Halemaumau, F.L. Clarke, showing extent of area on 29 June, 4 July, 9 July, and
chimney formed 4 July 1886. Page 63.
Messrs. White, Ryder, and Dent descended to the crater, leaving Volcano House
at 3 p.m., reaching edge of Halemaumau at 4:10--Level of crater floor at foot of pathway
500 feet, and edge of Halemaumau 400 feet (by aneroid) below V. House. From the south
(and higher) lake of July 12 (see page 61) was an almost incessant spouting of lava jets
from two vents. An hour later a vent in the north (and lower level) lake began to play but
not so vigorously or constantly as the south lake. About 6 p.m. the lava commenced to
ooze from several points in south lake and before long the whole surface broke up and
began to overflow in many places, but very shortly the crust re-formed. The lower lake
which was by far the less active--continued comparatively quiet, though evidently
covered by only a thin crust as was apparent when the darkness set in. The wind
unfortunately blew the incessant volumes of steam from the vent or chimney on the east
side almost without intermission across the lakes, which could only be observed at
intervals; and in fact oftentimes the brilliant reflection on the clouds of steam and smoke
were the only indications of increased activity. The Halemaumau lake appeared to be
very active from the vivid glow on the steam clouds which overhung it.
Left the edge of Halemaumau at 8 p.m. after a considerable period of comparative
inactivity in the lakes; but about 9 the reflection was very bright. Reached V. House 9:40.
Obtained many interesting specimens of white lava (a kind of sulphur stalactite &
stalagmite) from the roof and floor of a cavern the temperature of which was about 170
Fahrenheit. Also found some very beautiful sulphur needle crystals from extinct
chimneys, also black stalactitic forms apparently droppings of lava which had dashed up
in spray against the roof.
Good wine needs no bush so it is needless to say more than that the hospitality,
geniality, and good-humored benevolence of our excellent host and hostess may possibly
be equalled but cannot be surpassed.
no signature, 16 July 1886
In coming from Hookena, Kona, we soon began to see the old tracks of Madame
Pele, and the further we advanced on our journey the fresher the tracks appeared. Until
yesterday we had some doubts about the personality of the old lady when we began
finding plenty of hair, all doubts were removed last night when on visiting the crater we
were treated with a perfect vision of her fickle ways--at times she seemed to smile and
again frown on us while winking at us with her thousands of eyes.
E. Sycan, Chas. Hitchcock (4th), 19 July 1886
Oh, the wonder of everything!
Minna Champ, Detroit, Mich., 25 July 1886
Left Volcano House with guide Malo at 2 p.m., and reached point of observation
north of Halemaumau at 3:30 p.m. Found lava of caldera on side next to V.H. 500 feet
below said house; the height of brink of crater north of Halemaumau 100 feet higher.
Observations taken by aneroid. Noticed a deep crevasse the sides of whose walls were
red hot not far from "Little Beggar." On arrival at crater at a point northwest of
Halemaumau got a first view of the lake of molten lava on west side of crater. It was then
comparatively quiet, throwing out occasional jets of lava a few feet in height. It
continued, however, to increase in activity from hour to hour, and in the evening when
we left at 8 o'clock, there were two remarkably active but intermittent jets near the west
wall of the north lake, throwing out masses of lava from five to twenty-five or thirty feet.
The guide said it was by far the finest exhibition he had seen since last March. He was
even quite enthusiastic over the display. Frequently the whole lake would be aglow and
when the surface broke up, as it did on several occasions, the scene was truly
magnificent. In the south lake, which is separated from the north lake by a neck of lava,
there was also considerable action towards evening and there was at times quite a lively
center of activity. Occasionally too, the ridge or neck, separating the two lakes would
glow with molten lava and several streams of the same would simultaneously pour into
north lake. When the larger eruptions would take place in the north lake, great waves of
bright red lava would overspread the surface, but would soon cool. For the last few hours
of my stay at the crater there were four sulphur and smoke vents in constant action on the
flanks of Halemaumau. The one on the northwest corner, shortly before we left, became
more active and showed a bright fire. The one on the northeast corner also became
similarly active and promises to become as active as one of the eruption centers of north
lake. It was raining for an hour before we left and the reflections of lights from the vapor,
smoke, and clouds as also from the west wall were very brilliant. Before we started for V
House, it was as dark as pitch, and this darkness heightened in no small degree the effects
of the molten lakes and their weird surroundings. From present appearance there can be
little doubt, but that the immense chasm made by the recent breakdown will rapidly fill
up, and that Kilauea will ere long exhibit all its wanton splendor and energy. Even now it
well repays a visit and to scientists it is more interesting at present although the
pyrotechnic display is less than it was before the breakdown, as it gives them a better
opportunity of studying the crater and the various centers of action.
J.A. Zahm, C.S.C., Prof. of Physical Science, Notre Dame Univ., Indiana
"Thou hast made man a little lower than the angels, and crowned him with honor
and glory and placed him over the works of thy hand;" but this stupendous exhibition of
thy creative will, man can neither control nor comprehend.
No! Pele, No!
After a midnight visit to her palace.
O; Pele of the flame-spun hair
In Halemaumau's burning pit;
Whose breath hath scorched this mountain air
Since living man first heard of it
O'er mountains vast and leagues of sea
I've let my ardent footsteps roam;
So if thy heart were "fancy free"
I'd take thee to my eastern home
But thou, dear girl of burning breath
Need never quit thy home of fire
For in thy arms I'd find my death
And never quench thy fierce desire
Thy boat may ride Phlegethon's wave
To show thy majesty and grace;
But never man, however brave,
Would trust himself to thy embrace.
And so, dear Queen of calcined realm,
Whose kiss smells like the breath of hell;
I leave thee guiding Charon's helm
And gladly say Farewell, Farewell.
A.S. Condon, M.D., special correspondent, Salt Lake Tribune, 26 Aug 1886
Arrived here Friday 1 p.m. from Hilo via Puna. While at Kahaualea, stopped at
the mail carrier's house and had first class treatment. While there had a bath in a splendid
pool of water a short distance from the Govt Road, Makai, in a grove of cocoanuts. Also
went down a mile and a half to visit the famous heiau of "Wahaula," where human
sacrifices were frequently made. I have, from measurements roughly taken, drawn a
sketch of the heiau in the Volcano Sketchbook. It is well worth a while to go out of one's
way to see this relic of the Ancient Hawaiian Mythology. Kaahumanu was the first
woman to enter the sacred precincts after the kapu was broken.
The Wilder Steamship company have certainly done a great deal of good work on
the Keauhou Road and the Volcano House itself with its clean coat of whitewash. Fences
all up, gates in good order, ____ flowerbeds etc. etc. show that the manager of this
hostelry has not been idle during the year last past.
The crater shows some fire, but is not active. Halemaumau is larger than I ever
saw it before, extending north and south to a greater distance from the old center than it
has done since I first visited it in 1848. At that time there was very little activity and our
party walked through Halemaumau from East to West, seeing no fire, only red hot rocks
and plenty of smoke. Again in 1857 myself and a large party visited the crater and found
no fire to speak of--Halemaumau being a huge depression full of rocks through the cracks
of which the smoke was coming up, but no fire. This inactivity was continued for over a
year. The Halemaumau of that time was the lowest part of the crater and must have been
some 300 feet lower than the present bottom of the same pit. The whole crater is
gradually filling up and it is more than probably that in a hundred years from now the
crater of Kilauea will be on a mountain, made by its own overflow, building up gradually
a 4th mountain on Hawaii. One thing noticeable on the floor of the crater is the extensive
"aa" beds laying to the northward of Halemaumau. "Aa" has seldom been found in
Kilauea in any quantity before. What is "Aa" and how made? are queries yet unanswered.
All outbreaks of lava either from Mokuaweoweo or Kilauea, first run out "Aa" and
afterwards the Pahoehoe follows. From the flow of 1840 in Puna, to the last flow of
Mauna Loa in 1880-1 the same fact has been noticed. And moreover Pahoehoe does not
run from under an "Aa" flow, but always commences near the fountain head a Pahoehoe
flow. The liquid lava under an "Aa" flow is "Aa" and not Pahoehoe, as Prof. Alexander
and myself were fortunate enough to see, during the flow of 1880-1 a stream of liquid
"Aa" flowing from under an "Aa" rock flow and immediately in cooling forming an "Aa"
bed and no Pahoehoe. Close observations of future flows may solve the problem.
We leave for Kau, to attend the Circuit Court and will probably be back in about
10 days. Weather not very cool.
D.H. Hitchcock, 29 Aug 1886
...The volcano is in a fine state of activity, and we much enjoyed the visit to the
crater. We stayed there from four in the afternoon until nine at night, and then bade
adieux to Madame Pele.
J.N.S. Williams, 2d visit, 31 Aug 1886
...The crater is still inactive, only a little fire to be seen. There will probably not
be much change in its activity for several months, as I find by referring to the past record
and my own knowledge that after a period of such great activity just past, that after a
quiet state takes place, it is sometimes a year or longer before any great activity takes
place...
D.H. Hitchcock, Sept 1886
How sad to read all this that's writ before,
Such heaps of nonesense leaven'd with so little lore
Such glowing tales of wonders seen by other folk,
When all we saw was little more than steam and smoke.
And were it not that Mr. Maby's just as good as gold,
Our candid verdict would have been, "We're sold, dear friends, we're sold."
Daniel Porter, Sept 1886
We all went forth, with wondrous sense,
To view the fiery show;
And did we find a recompense?
We answer Volca-No!
I.I.A., Sept 1886
Had we come a little later
We'd have seen a better crater.
M.R., Sept 1886
Arrived via Kona and Kau. Sept. 14th leave for Hilo. Second visit. Madam Pele
not having returned from her visit to Vesuvius, we found only a few servants at home to
receive us.
C.H. Elderidge, Honolulu, 11 Sept 1886
Sept. 24, 1866. Made the circuit of Kilauea in 5 1/2 hours setting flags and
selecting stations for the survey of the crater. Weather clear nearly all day.
26th. A perfect day, clear and bright. Occupied several stations on north end of
crater with 4" transit, and began the triangulation. Halemaumau is rising rapidly, and
there is an increase of smoke and steam and the lights show brighter at night.
Sept. 27th. The usual Volcano rain and fog this morning. Visited Halemaumau
and the site of the New Lake this noon but found no new flows visible, though there was
plenty of noise, steam, and smoke issuing from many places all around Halemaumau.
New Lake is dead.
Sept. 28th. Fine, clear weather. Surveying in the morning. In the evening visited
the crater again with Mrs. D. and remained near Halemaumau until 7 p.m. Liquid lava
was seen in many places on the floor of the pit on the north and west sides of the hills,
surrounding Halemaumau proper. The south and southeast sides are probably in the same
condition, judging from the frequent flashes of light visible through the smoke and steam
in those directions.
Sept, 29th. A fine steady rain nearly all the forenoon, after which we had clear
cool weather with strong trade winds. Spent the p.m. triangulating across the crater.
Sept. 30th. Continued survey around towards the south from Uekanuna Bluff. The
last flow of pahoehoe of 1885 is only about 40 feet below the lowest point in the rim of
Kilauea, S.W. of the long gravel point seen from the house.
Oct. 2d. Occupied station in the crater and around the south and east to Poli o
Keawe. Found traces of the old Kau and Hilo trail all along the gravel banks near
Keanokakoi, and leading into the woods below Kilauea.
Oct. 3rd. Finished the survey of the crater of Kilauea and Kilauea Iki this a.m.,
having been highly favored by the weather for the past week.
Frank S. Dodge, Govt. Survey, Honolulu
The "New Lake" was very active this afternoon, there was a good size lava flow
at the east side of Halemaumau flowing towards south.
Chas. Tuck, Hanalei, Kauai, 7 Oct 1866
...Our visit to the crater today disappointed our expectations only in one
particular, viz: while we had hoped and desired especially to find the central crater alive
with one vast mass of molten lava, taking on all kinds of boiling and flowing forms
incident to such conditions, we found instead but one small mass of flowing lava, running
down the south part of the irregular slope of the inner wall, with other isolated fires and
steaming vents, conspicuous in other parts, while the larger part of the crater bed was
paved with dead lava. Still, after all, the scenes, including the whole body of the lava bed
over which we passed and all besides in sight, not overlooking the high and vast
enclosing walls of the lava lake, impressed upon us a sense of grandeur...
Charles K. Dean, Boscobet, Wisconsin, 8 Oct 1886
Fires in crater very active on the night of the 17th, the whole crater well lighted
up and the reflection could be seen for miles. Large new flow on the east side of
Halemaumau.
J.H. Maby, 19 Oct 1866
...We visited the crater and were well satisfied with the sight--should have been
better pleased if the Fireman had used a little more fuel.
Dr. O.S. Trimmer, Salinas City, California, 22 Oct 1886
...Went down in the caldera to the crater last night and were guided to a place
immediately above a magnificent blow hole that as often as two or three times a minute
threw with an explosive noise hundreds of balls of liquid lava into the air from thirty to
eighty feet very much resembling a grand display of fireworks (technically known as a
flower pot). All around the base of the remains of Halemaumau seemed to be a crust of
cold or congealed lava covering molten lava that showed its red glare through many
cracks: in one part there was quite a good flow that seemed to affect the blow hole, as
during the flow its action nearly ceased. Often a flame of blue colored light could be seen
at the opening in the blow hole. The whole appearance is as new and strange as though I
had never looked at this volcano before.
Ed Lycan, 31 Oct 1886
...After lunch I went, with Mr. Castle, a genial and entertaining visitor from
Honolulu, to see the sulphur formations and the fissures around the sides of the precipices
of the crater to the right of the Volcano House. At 4 p.m. the start was made for the centre
of the great volcano--the guide Malo, an intelligent native, leading, the doctor, the writer,
and the visitor from Baltimore following in the order named. Passing over the New Lake
and reaching the edge of the great crater in the Old Lake, we were all greatly impressed
with the wonderful and awe inspiring scene before and around us, although the mythical
goddess Pele was evidently not in her best humor, still there was a grand display and an
ever changing panoramic scene of the wonderful workings of nature--and remembering
that we were then standing in the very crater of the largest known active volcano in the
world, on an island of volcanic origin, thousands of miles from any continent, away in the
trackless ocean, there involuntarily occurred to memory the worshipful word of the hymn
we had first been taught in our far away and faithful home:
"God moves in a mysterious way
His wonders to perform
He plants his footsteps in the sea,
And rides upon the storm"
We stood in silent admiration, awe, and wonder and gazed long and earnestly on the
unparalleled scene, and although the lake in the crater was not as some writers have
previously described it "all a boiling livid mass of surging seething lava," yet there was
an ever moving mass of lava overflowing in many places, and burning craters all around
the mass of rock and lava in the centre, known as "the Island," and regularly sending
forth in terrific breathings, hot air and steam with clouds of smoke and sparks of fire and
burning lava into the quiet semitropical skies of a misty moonlight night...
R.H. Holmes, Toronto, Canada, 3 Nov 1886
This evening ends an extremely pleasant visit of two weeks. We came here for
health. The visit has been successful, only too short. If people could only know many
more would come. Since our arrival the temperature has been delightful. About 6 a.m. it
has ranged from 54 to 62 F, at 1 p.m. 61 to 74, in the evening from 60 to 64. There have
been three rainy days. Fog has obscured the air and view but very little. Besides short and
very pleasant excursions to the koa forest with its wealth of ferns, into the woods north of
the house and to Kilauea-iki, I have alone or with a guide visited the crater several times,
also the remarkable craters of Kilauea-iki and Keanakakoi, in both of which recent lava
covers the floor. The guide informs me (Pea) that he went with his father Pea Wilkes to
the latter at the time light was seen (1877 probably) and the whole floor was a bubbling,
boiling mass of lava sending surges from side to side. The heat was so great that they
could only approach on the windward side and then only for a few moments at a time,
shading their faces. The floor I now judge covers perhaps fifteen acres or less and is
extremely smooth and level with cracks extending from side to side. There are no signs of
fire or heat, except that after heavy rain, steam rises from the cracks. It is an interesting
spot well worth a visit.
The depressed plateau lying between the great crater and Kilauea-iki is also
worthy of attention. The crack whence lava spouted forth in 1868 is a remarkable sight.
Considerable heat still pours out. The trees near at hand still bear the festoons of lava
there wreathed upon them. Some remarkable mounds I finally concluded were formed by
lava being thrown over dense masses of ferns which subsequently withered away leaving
caves.
Since my last visit May 1885 the main crater has undergone changes so extensive
in the region of action as to be totally unrecognizable. I find no action or heat in the new
lake. The channels near exhibit none but remnants of the former liquid masses they
contained.
South Lake, while not as active as last year, is fully alive to the necessities of the
case. It is evident to a casual glance that the hill within has risen several feet in the past
two weeks. If the great breakdown of last March left a pit within a pit, without any hill or
rise between, as I am informed thus, [here he has made a small sketch, a cross-section]
then I should describe the change now as that the inner pit has risen bodily carrying up
walls with it and that lava has filled in thus. [here is another small sketch, also a crosssection] Smoke is so dense that it has not been possible to enter the inner pit, or even
ascend the hill but from the main floor it is evidently quite deep yet, as seen through
occasional rifts in the smoke. Without strict regard to shape etc. I should describe the
center of activity about as represented by this diagram. North at bottom.
[Here he has a map view of the crater.] Fire and blowing cones are represented [here he
drew a pointed cone], while flowing lava is represented [here he drew a bunch of
dots].The cone furthest south was also accompanied by a small lake with, at times, six
fire fountains, throwing with much surging from a mere bubble to twenty feet in the air.
The cone furthest north, on the evening of Oct. 30 made the finest display of shooting
rockets and fire balls I ever saw (as described by Lycan). But on the evening of Nov. 1st,
without warning except an occasional boom the floor at [here he marked a vent and
cross] suddenly burst and there shot into the air a magnificent fountain of liquid lava, to a
height of ten to fifteen feet, while a mass of glowing red lava rapidly covered several
acres. The hill surrounding the central pit has perhaps a dozen chimneys belching forth
the smoke spoken of, accompanied by sullen thumps from below which cause the
surrounding floor to tremble and I saw stones rolling down the hillside. I have been into
the pit and to the margin five times. Mrs. Castle went to the edge carried in a chair by two
men.
William R. Castle, 4 Nov 1886
Illustration: Small map of Halemaumau, W.R. Castle, 4 Nov 1886, including cones, inner
crater, and flowing lava, and two cross-sections. Page 87.
Detained by stress of weather until today, by a storm of great severity, on the 4th,
5th, and 6th, in which about 18 inches of rain fell, bringing a small quantity of snow to
the summits of the two mountains. The delay has been improved by a visit to the bottom
of Kilauea-iki and to the wonderful crater of Kamakaopuhi about 10 or 11 miles down
the Puna road.
Toward the main crater Kilauea-iki rises by three cyclopean steps, which from
their shape &c I presume are small craters. They are floored with fresh lava of 1868 and
1877. All who have strength and time will be richly repaid by making this trip.
Kamakaopuhi is represented by the following figure, and is a most wonderful
sight. Steam was issuing profusely from a long crack down one side to the bottom and
from a larger and deep crack on the surface near the trail (steam [drawn as a squiggle]).
The deeper pit to the N.W. is a most profound hole! Said to be 2000 feet, but I doubt that.
It is no doubt 1500 or so. Went there with Mr. Pogue and one of his boys. Ahuai as guide.
William R. Castle, 10 Nov 1886
Illustration: Map of Kamakaopuhi, 10 Nov 1866, W.R. Castle. Page 88.
On Sunday, Jan. 16th, smoke was seen issuing from Mauna Loa due west from
the Volcano House. At 8:10 p.m. a slight light was seen from the same point constantly
increasing until it had assumed grand proportions. At that great distance it made as much
light as Kilauea three miles distant when moderately active.
Large clouds of smoke rolled up and reflected the fire from below making a
majestic and impressive scene. At times small jets of white hot matter could be seen
shooting up. We were unable to determine from the great distance whether there was a
flow or whether it was simply the appearance of lava in some old crater. The distance
was estimated at from thirty to forty miles. At 9:10 p.m. no further light was seen.
no signature, 16 Jan 1887
Illustration: Sketch of Mauna Loa with smoke cloud. 16 Jan 1887. Page 91.
After a thorough rest, we spent a charming morning on a visit to Kilauea Iki
gathering specimens of the many beautiful mosses along the road; on our return our
generous host and hostess served up a splendid lunch. After that of course came the
sulphur bath and then the visit to Madame Pele's chief palace. We were grieved to find
she had left for a time, having gone evidently to the ones of Mauna Loa which new
outbreak we had the unexpected pleasure of seeing on our way up the Kona Coast. It was
on the Kona side about two miles from the old flow of '68.
A grand and glorious sight it was--that mass of molten lava pouring down the
sides of the grand old mountain a quarter of a mile wide, here and there where it had
caught the trees, the flames were very brilliant; the heat was intense even to our steamer.
So we must be content so far. Our return from Halemaumau was anything but a dull one;
but the climb up the side of the mountain to the house seemed endless; yet the cheery
welcome awaiting us at the end was indeed a homelike one; and well repaid any fatigue
we felt. Alls well that ends well.
Hettie Tuck, Honolulu, 22 Jan 1887
I arrived here on Jan. 18th after an 8 hour ride from Hilo, had several slight
showers of rain on the way, but found the road very good and the scenery beautiful. Was
received very kindly by Mr. & Mrs. Maby and felt very much at home after the first hour
I was here and much refreshed after a splendid dinner. I came to the Volcano House for
the benefit of my health and must say that the climate, the comfortable and clean beds,
the good well prepared food, the sulphur baths and the kind treatment I have received at
the hands of Mr. & Mrs. Maby have made me feel like a new man. I can not help but feel
surprised that people from Honolulu especially and the different islands also don't come
here to the Volcano House when they need a rest, because everything that can be done for
them is certainly done by the manager and his good lady. I have improved in health every
day I have been here and regret very much that I have to leave tomorrow. I had the very
great pleasure of meeting my friends Mrs. McDonald, Mrs. Sass and Miss Hettie Tuck
here and to pay a visit to Kilauea Iki and Halemaumau with them on the 22nd inst. and
only regret that Madame Pele was not at home, when we called on her, but the grand and
awe inspiring sights we saw repaid us quite for any hardships we had to go through, if
any, on our return home. The weather during the time I have been here has not been such
as one would call favorable but the open hearted welcome which I invariably received
after a tramp in the surrounding woods has always cheered me up. On the night of Jan. 23
we felt quite a severe shock of earthquake at about 11 o'clock and from then until 12:30
o'clock more severe shocks were felt, so much so that the clocks in the house stopped.
After that a few very slight shocks were felt. This morning at 9:40 I was at the old crater
of Kilauea Iki when I felt a severe shock, which was not however felt at the Volcano
House. The steam and smoke issuing from Halemaumau has increased in volume the last
two days very much. I leave here tomorrow for Hilo by way of Keauhou.
John G. Eckardt, Purveyor of the Queen's Hospital, Honolulu, 24 Jan 1887
We landed at Hilo on Tuesday evening at 9 o'clock...left Hilo at 11 a.m.
Wednesday, arrived at half way house at 1:30, left half way house at 2:15 and arrived
after a long and tiresome ride over lava through a heavy rain, at the Volcano House
where we were quartered for the evening in the sitting room as the house was filled to its
utmost capacity, there being something like 35 guests present. Went into the crater but
found a great change since I was here last April, what was once a large hole is now
becoming a gigantic cone.
Theodore P. Severin, Photographer, Honolulu, 28 Jan 1887
Newspaper article: For the Volcano! A Government Party Will Visit Mauna Loa to
Ascertain the Source of the Flow, page 95.
Here is an excerpt from the news clipping:
It will be about the largest party that has ever visited Kilauea at one time. Mr. F.L.
Clarke in the Government employ and Mr. Severin also employed by the Government,
will ascend Mauna Loa, accompanied by guides, to photograph the interior of that crater
and to ascertain the source of the present flow, for the benefit of the Government. The
two gentlemen mentioned will be accompanied by guides, and will camp on the way to
Mauna Loa, and during their search.
Jan. 26, 1887. Rain all day. Very little action in Kilauea. Reflection from new
flow quite bright.
Jan. 27. Went into the crater this p.m. When here in June-July last year see pages
56 to 65. Halemaumau's outline as compared to it now was as follows.[Here he has drawn
a cross-sectional sketch, with A and B base lines.] A the present level, B the former level.
The West pit has filled up half way up the sides. A rough calculation gives the amount of
lava which has accumulated in the West Pit since last March as something over
20,000,000,000 cubic feet.
An ideal section of the caldera of Kilauea on a line from the point where visitors
first step on to the lava floor, through Halemaumau to the south bank would probably
present something like the following.
[Here he has drawn a sort of 3-D cross section of the caldera.]
F.L. Clarke, 26 Jan 1887
Illustrations: Two drawings, F.L. Clarke: 1. Cross section of Halemaumau, 26 Jan 1887,
comparing levels of lava in July 1886 with Jan 1887. 2. Cross section of Kilauea,
includes Halemaumau and levels in 1840, 1868, and 1886. Page 96.
Arrived from Hilo last p.m. after a 6 1/2 hours ride in the rain. Find the crater
greatly changed since my last visit. With many thanks to host Maby I take my leave.
Wm. H. Lentz, 30 Jan 1887
Arrived at V.H. at 3 p.m. Left Hilea soon after 6 o'clock, Halfway House at noon.
Left the Volcano House Sunday Jan. 30 at 8 a.m. Arrived at Hilea at 4:30 p.m. Left Hilea
Jan. 31st 8 a.m. Reached Upper Camp in woods (5000 ft. alt.) at 6 p.m.
Tues. Feb. 1. Reached "New flow" at 8 a.m.
Wed. Feb. 2. Visited "bend of flow" 5 miles above camp.
Thurs. Feb. 3. Retd. to McCombe's house. Friday rain all day.
Sat. Feb. 5. Visited "New flow" at Govt. Road.
Sun. Feb. 6. Returned to Hilea.
Mon. Feb. 7. Visited (& photographed) famous "God" in valley 4 miles above
Hilea.
Tues. Feb. 8. Reached V.H.
F.L. Clarke, 8 Feb 1887
Went into the crater. The interior of the Halemaumau chasm is being pushed up
enormously. There is much probability that the chasm will after a while develop into a
lake: although the first development will probably be of a small lake in the midst of the
debris in the central part of the chasm.
Feb. 9th I ascended to the Pele Kahuku in upper Maunaloa. This a crack in the
side of the mountain: 11,500 altitude and is where the 1887 flow that came out above the
huku made its first appearance. The light from this crack was seen on Sunday eve. 16th
Jan. '87. I reached Mokuaweoweo Feb. 10th which was smoking in the central part of it.
There was a chasm, beginning at near the middle of the floor of the central part of
Mokuaweoweo and extending to and disappearing under the western wall (the line of it
pointing toward Kahuku). Mokuaweoweo 13,500, Pele Kahuku 11,500 and Hale Pohaku
5,600 are the 3 points where the 1887 lava flow from Maunaloa made its appearance on
the surface of the earth prior to leaving the interior of the earth altogether running wholly
on the surface. From Pele Kahuku I could look straight down and see Hale Pohaku, near
which was playing the famous fountain of fire above Kahuku. Between Pele Kahuku and
Hale Pohaku the fire channel was subterranean. The writer on Maunaloa was fearful at
the _________ I was at the tip of it. I traversed twelve or fifteen miles of snow which was
20 feet, 10 feet, 1 foot: on the average 3 feet deep perhaps. The snow in general had a
crust which upbore the pedestrian.
Edwd. P. Baker, 16 Feb 1887
After a pleasant sail in the S.S. Kinau, leaving Honolulu Monday 14th inst. at 4
p.m., we landed at Keauhou 6:30 a.m. Wednesday 16th--thence to Pogue's six miles we
had a pleasant horseback ride over a lava trail making an elevation of some 2500 feet--as
we climbed the ascent the view of land and sea was fine. En route were cattle and several
bands of goats, wild and domestic ones mixed in these lots as we were informed.
At Pogue's, we left our fiery steeds and took the noted one-horse cart seating two.
The road led through luxuriant growths of ferns and shrubs and groves of the ohia wood,
often so dense as to constitute a jungle. The road was more or less guttered by rainwater,
more or less uneven with dishing holes and over a black volcanic sand, and part of way
mud, making our locomotion a hard pull for our very good horse. As usual at this season
of the year we had a good shower of rain.
Shortly after noon we reached this place, our destination, 4,040 altitude, where we
were kindly received and every attention given to our wants to make us comfortable by
Mr. Maby the manager, and his amiable and pleasant wife, the host and hostess of the
Volcano House.
The afternoon was rainy, which kept us mostly indoors, where we enjoyed the
comforts of a large blazing and cheerful wood fire.
17th Thurs. the morning was clear and the day propitious for our visit to the crater
of Kilauea. However, we spent the a.m. in viewing the grand panoramic landscape, and
visiting various crevices and vent holes just north of the extensive lava basin whence
were being constantly emitted jets and clouds of hot steam and sulphurous vapor.
Fortified by a good lunch, at 2 p.m., we started with our guide David, for the lava
basin and crater in the southwest quarter of it. After a walk of some three miles, down the
bluff and over the undulating and hilly lava trail, which is twisted and distorted into all
conceivable forms and shapes, with innumerable chasms small and great, and caverns
gaping wide, we stood upon the brink of the crater, gazing down into the abyss below,
and saw the fiery column whose red hot openings suggested vents to a blast furnace, and
whence rushed a volume of hot steam and gas with a shrill shrieking and hissing sound
which was deafening and almost frightful as we approached it later. My friend, as he saw
this specter amidst the clouds of steam and smoke anon enveloping it and listened to this
fiery breath exhaled from the lungs of this burning volcano at the same time
contemplating the doubtful and difficult descent, stood aghast, exclaiming, "I can never
never get down there, and if I should get down, I never can get out." By urging and
persuasion he proceeded step by step until finally we all stood near to this wonderful
curiosity. A rumbling sound and tremulous vibration, below and of, the lava upon which
we stood were heard and felt. Venturing too near the openings, an inhalation of the gases
produced a rasping and suffocating effect.
It only needed a little jogging of the imagination to make us feel that we stood at
the altar of the goddess Pele. We were at a loss to know whether the goddess angrily
hissed at us, or rather was giving us a warm greeting. However, as a mark of our devotion
to her majesty, we gently approached and climbing up her port side, lighted our cigar at
the holy fire which we burned as incense in token of our humble devotion.
Huge volumes of smoke and steam rose from the cone-shaped mountain
(elongated) which is being pushed up from this crater. We returned safely to a good
supper and our cheerful wood fire, well paid not only for the afternoon trip but for our
entire journey from Honolulu.
Savants may theorize, and theorists may speculate, upon the causes and manner of
production of this wonderful phenomenon, yet who shall ever know the beginning or the
end?
It seems that her majesty, the goddess Pele, sits here upon her ancient and best
beloved throne, and saying to the world around her in the language of the Sphinx, "I am
all that was, that is, and am what I am, and no mortal has ever lifted my veil."
Occasionally she visits some of her other possessions, as recently when she sat
upon her throne of Mauna Loa to receive the offerings of her devotees.
In concluding this rambling sketch, we can not omit to invite the attentions of our
friends to the picturesque, beautiful and unique characteristics of the grand panoramic
view of this house and its environments, that well repay the tourist for a visit to it.
Mauna Loa, rising to a height of 13,5000 on the west with its white mantle, and
Mauna Kea, to north by west some 300 feet higher, with its twin peaks white as the
driven snow, make fine backgrounds.
Tomorrow we leave for Hilo upon our Hawaiian steeds, the native plugs of this
island.
Our visit has been so pleasant, owing to the kind attentions of our host and
hostess, that we shall depart with a lingering regret. As we say, adieu.
N.H. Davis, Brig. Gen. U.S. Army ret., New York City, 18 Feb 1887
We reached this very comfortable home shortly before dusk on Feb. 21 having
walked up from Punaluu somewhat heavily laden with apparatus for collecting plants etc.
The weather was very rainy during the last stage of the route from the Halfway House
onward. These unfavorable conditions continued on the 22nd although in the evening it
cleared up and we were able to see the reflection of two centers of activity in the crater.
On the 23rd the wind was still southerly but we started for the crater about 2 p.m.
and saw a region of it which I hear is not usually visited. Skirting the edge of the brokendown region we at length descended into it and saw three distinct centers of activity. In
all of these the lava was splashing about with considerable noise and around two of the
vents clots of solidified lava strewed the ground on which they had evidently fallen in a
molten state.
The last vent we reached was a cone of some 15 yards in diameter with an orifice
of 6 feet. The crust cannot have been more than three feet thick and below where we were
standing we could see the molten lava. I do not suppose that we have seen the best
spectacular effects in the crater, but a more wonderful spot it is hard to find. It is a
startling contrast to the white ashes of the late eruption in New Zealand. We hope to
spend another day here, being tempted by the comforts of the place, to postpone our
rather arduous walk to Hilo, and I hope to see something more of the intensely interesting
vegetation of the region.
Feb. 24. In this I am disappointed owing to the heavy incessant rain, but cannot
but feel thankful we did not start. And if being able to spend a well day happily therein is
a good test of the comfort of a hotel, this one stands higher in my estimation than any
other I have yet visited.
T.S. Lea, M.A., Hertford College, lately collecting for the British Museum in parts of
Australia and now in these islands, 24 Feb 1887
This a.m. from 3 to 5 o'clock the fires in the crater were very bright.
J.H. Maby, 28 Feb 1887
Elevations on the road from Keauhou to the Volcano House, Kilauea, Hawaii,
from aneroid observations Oct. 5th 1886.
Volcano House veranda
1 mile post
2 mile post
3
"
4
"
5
"
6
"
7
"
8
"
Pogue & Co. House
9
"
10
"
Top of Pali
11
"
12
"
13
"
14
"
4040 feet above sea level
3904
4008
3748
3629
3395
3341
3204
2867
2504
2278
1841
1113
852
76
The above elevations is at each of the mile marks posted up on the road, the first
mile commencing 1 mile from the Volcano House and the 14 mile board being at the
Beach of Keauhou.
Frank Dodge, Govt. Survey, 1 March 1887
Arrived at 6 p.m. Went down to the crater March 5, 2 p.m. and saw the fires in
one corner of the S.W. part of Halemaumau very bright, waves of lava dashing up and
down. It looked as if there would be a new lake formed. I feel very much obliged to Mr.
and Mrs. Maby for their kind attentions. March 6 left for Punaluu 8 a.m.
H. Isenberg, Pastor of Lutheran Church, Germany, 4 March 1887
Went right round the far lake, starting from the Volcano House at 4:45 p.m. and
getting back at 9 p.m. Of these 4 1/4 hours about 2 3/4 were spent in walking and 1 1/2 in
watching the various fires and the boiling lava. At this time, toward the end of the far
lake was a boiling pool of lava, about 90 yards in diameter, but continually increasing
and diminishing. The greater part of this pool was covered with a layer of cooler lava,
which at night, being cracked in many places, showed the molten lava just below it, much
like forked lightning. About 1/20 of the surface of the pool was violently agitated, waves
and small geysers of red hot lava being thrown up. The bank on this side of the pool was
also red hot--in parts almost of a white heat. In the lake were other fires, and also another
boiling pool, not so active as the one mentioned above, which broke out on April 20th.
There was no difficulty in returning, having lanterns with us.
April 26. This afternoon we descended into the far lake "New Lake" and visited
amongst other things both the boiling lakes mentioned yesterday. The pool that was
particularly active then, had become hardened over the greater part of its surface, and we
were able to walk over what last night was red hot and molten, and approach close
enough to remove on the end of a 6-foot stick boiling lava from the remainder of the
pool. The second pool, 70 yards in diameter, mentioned as the more quiet last night was
pretty active, there being two places on either side whence lava was being ejected red hot.
The whole scene was most interesting, in our humble opinion, and ranks in the first class
of natural wonders, with the Terraces in New Zealand, Yellowstone Park, and many other
marvels which it has been our privilege to see. We also think that a visit by day is
advisable as well as one by night, as much is missed by seeing only one side. This second
day's excursion took from 2 p.m. to 6 p.m.
Charles G. de Betham, Cambridge, 26 April 1887
Illustration: Half-page shaded pencil drawing, shoes drying before fire place. Page 108.
The caption reads:
Our friend and comforter after a thirty mile ride through the rain. The largest fire
at the volcano.
Kate M. Wells, Kohala, Hawaii, no date
Illustrations: Four color drawings: 1. Landing at Keauhou in rough water, with shark
lurking. 2. Riding horses over rugged terrain on road to Kilauea. 3. Party hiking to brink
of Halemaumau. 4. Two obscured gentlemen silhouetted against sunset at the crater. Page
109.
The full-page description of these drawings follows:
Excursion from Honolulu to Kilauea, May 16th to 21st, 1887, As described by the
illustrations on preceding page.
Design No. 1 shows process of landing from the Wilder Co's steamer as practiced
at the port of Keauhou.
Design No. 2 describes the road and ride between the shore and the "half-way
house," the section of ground represented showing one of the moderate grades.
Design No. 3 hands down to an admiring posterity the individuals of the party
who made the above memorable excursion at the above dates, as they appeared on their
march to the crater on Wednesday afternoon, May 18th, and at the moment when they
came upon the stupendous sight of the volcanic fires. Letter "A" represents the Volcano
House guide, somewhat idealized, as are most of the other figures in the group, it must be
said.
Letter "B" represents the German correspondent, the tallest member of the party;
"C" stands for the English gentleman and his pipe; "D" is the Lady from Boston, the
actual hues of whose costume are somewhat heightened in order to give chromatic
variety to the composition; "E" and "F" are the San Francisco gentlemen who procured
ponchos in Honolulu, and went forward in garb at once convenient and picturesque; "G"
is the member from Los Angeles, who here appears in red for the same reason that the
Lady from Boston appears in a variety of colors; "H" represents the individual to whose
brilliant artistic talent posterity aforesaid is indebted by the treat to the eye and mind that
is furnished upon the preceding page.
Design No. 4 shows the agreeable picture afforded by the two gentlemen in
ponchos, as, leaving the main party at the crater, they ambled home together in the
gloaming.
A marked change in 7 months--the hill has risen to a marked degree.
Wm. R. Castle, 6th visit, 16 June 1887
One month ago today we left the city of San Francisco and now as we are about to
leave the Volcano House on our homeward trip we deem it but just to record the fact that
at no place in the Kingdom have we felt so much at home and received such kind
treatment as here at the Volcano House and at the hands of the host and hostess: they
should have long life and prosperity.
The Volcano or "Burning Lake" during both nights preceding this date has been
sublimely grand in its activity--the first night while constantly changing, for the most
time four (4) several fountains or centers of activity and on last evening during the two
hours we watched it (until 8:30 p.m.) presented, if such were possible, a more
magnificent spectacle than on the preceding night. Altogether, as seen by us, it is a sight
which will repay the travelling of 3000 miles and all the money (and much more)
required in the undertaking...
Member of Masonic Excursion Party of California, 24 June 1887
After a pleasant stay of two weeks at the Hotel de Volcano we are able to endorse
all that has been recorded in praise of our amiable and obliging host and hostess. We
have enjoyed the bracing air, the lovely walks, the daily and nightly exhibition of steam
and fire, vouchsafed by Madame Pele--have visited the crater twice, the extinct volcano
once and find no words to express the wonder and admiration of all that we have seen.
Much pleasure also has been derived from attempts to sketch and paint the marvelous
scenes around us, as well as the native fruits and flowers that brighten every step of the
pathway. Although Madame Pele has not extended a direct invitation to visit her in her
rugged fortress, she has hung out a white flag by day and a scarlet one by night hinting
that she is "at home." So we have peeped about the premises generally--have l looked
upon the purple floor and watched the seams of yellow and crimson stretch out and open,
a fringe upon the wrinkled purple. Again we have watched the river of gold surge through
dark caves and as it circled, draw in a blackened mass, at once relieving it of its ______
and converting it into its own bright substance. Best of all to see a sudden concentration
of circles and then a splashing upwards--a fountain of liquid fire, scattering its newly
coined mintings far and wide. Madame Pele is evidently of sanguine temperament with a
touch of the bilious. Witness the great slabs and seams and gorges of the lava beds where
she has left undeniable evidence of enormous strength and determination. That we may
never be an object of her wrath is the sincere wish of "the last of the Masonic party."
Mrs. M.P. Benton (the last of the Masonic party), 29 July 1887
Have just returned from the volcano. How tired I am. When one starts on the way
the only ideas is to see a real "volcano." No thought is given to the vast distance which is
to be traversed. He is told the walk is a long one, and difficult, but only after having made
it does it appear in all its awfulness and vastness.
And when he has arrived at the desired goal, "does it repay him for his troubles?"
A thousand times yes!
Not all the descriptions ever written can picture in the least degree the grandeur
which one glance at Kilauea can afford. Ever moving, ever changing!
A beautiful golden river starts here on the left side, on it flows--on--on--till it
joins the surging mass on the opposite side where it gradually disappears, slowly, slowly,
under the projecting cliff. And the spectator looks on amazed, enchanted.
Here he may stand on the very edge of the liquid mass quite secure. And as I
stood today in just such a position I thought "Can there be any doubt of a mightier hand
which must govern thee, Pele? One who surely keeps thee within bounds? Thou with all
thy sisters (300) which should be able to destroy this little globe of ours in a short while."
With what strength and power the waves of lava beat against the banks on either
side! The fury, the passion--"Passion!" And have I not passions? But oh! how small is a
human being when gazing down in thy depths. The small troubles of life seem to drift
away off, and a desire for nobler feelings in engendered in the heart.
Long, long, shall I remember the impressions I received when contemplating you
in all your majesty, trusting the remembrance of them may be an incentive to nobler
deeds.
Farewell, Kilauea! And soon it will be farewell Oahu, my home nearly two years.
Anna McDonnell, 29 July 1887
Arrived at the Volcano House July 28 after a journey of some 6 hours from
Keauhou landing.
Visited the crater twice: first time was on the evening of Aug. 2, when we found
the crater quite active; the second time on Sunday morning Aug. 7 when it was still more
active.
On August 8 went after pohas and after an 8 mile ride in brake and six on
horseback we arrived at the poha beds where we gathered four bags full and then started
for home arriving about 9 p.m...
E.S. Wilder, Honolulu, 12 Aug 1887
Second visit, the first as geologist of the Wilkes exploring expedition in
November 1840. This visit to the islands was made to supplement the investigations of
1840, and remove a doubt as to the accuracy of the survey of the crater by Captain
Wilkes, the map from which he published in his Narrative of the Exploring Expedition. I
am sorry to find evidence of great inaccuracy instead of accuracy. A comparison of Mr.
Drayton's sketch (made for Captain Wilkes and contained in the same volume) with the
present western outline of the crater showing that the western wall, instead of having the
course given it by Captain Wilkes, differed but little in position and in headland from the
present, as represented on the second map of the Hawaiian Government Survey, and now
visible in the crater. Much indebted to the able assistant in the Topographical Survey of
the Hawaiian Islands, Mr. J.S. Emerson, for assistance in my studies of the region, and to
many other friends in the party for the pleasure and success of the visits--including
among them the artist of the old and useful hammer.
Left New Haven Connecticut July 8 1887 with my wife and daughter.
James D. Dana, 12-19 Aug 1887
Illustration: James D. Dana's rock hammer, Aug 1887. Page 123.
Sereno E. Bishop, who finds after thirty years, that Kilauea is greatly filled up.
Sereno E. Bishop, 12-19 Aug 1887
Visited crater twice. 18th considerable activity, boiling at four points. A whitish
flame visible about edge, at five different points, at four at one time.
On 22nd weather fine. Since previous visit the lake had overflowed. Space 250 x
300 feet. Lava in lake had fallen about 6 feet. Great activity at two points. A bluish flame
observed at four points, two being in middle of lake for a short time. A river of lava
flowed into lake from under high central cone.
The whole scene as viewed from high wall above was one grand beyond
description, never to be forgotten.
On opposite side of high central cone in Halemaumau was a small fire cone and
open furnace exceedingly active. Beyond this near wall to the extreme south of it was an
interesting lava flow over the hot smooth surface of which we ran to see a blow-hole.
We turn our steps homeward by way of Hilo with much regret at parting from this
spot more interesting and wonderful than anything ever seen before. Our visit of a week
has been a grand success and thoroughly enjoyed, largely by reason of the kindness of
our genial and accommodating host and hostess Mr. and Mrs. Maby.
S.D. Fuller, 17-23 Aug 1887
Arrived from Waiohinu last eve. Court held two days. Not much change in crater
since last year. The pit of Halemaumau is breaking in very much larger than I ever seen it
before. If the whole crater fills up during the next 25 years as much as it has since 1862
there will be a huge cone over Halemaumau and the lava from it will reach the sea
without trouble. In 1858 the south bank of the crater was about 300 feet high. Now
Halemaumau is at least 100 feet higher than the old bank and has run its lava over the old
sand flat, out to the distant outer wall on the southwest. There is a great deal of activity
on the northern side of Halemaumau. Bound to Hilo.
D.H. Hitchcock, 23 Sept 1887
Our party of three arrived here at about 11 a.m. after a remarkably pleasant sea
trip on the "Kinau" and a charming ride and drive from the coast. I consider the journey
one of pleasure, without a single hardship to endure, especially the time over the last
eight miles, the road being quite as good as many around and near the city of Honolulu, if
indeed in many places it is not superior. We spent the afternoon in walking and resting
and retired early for the next day's tromp. Sept. 29. We visited the volcano, starting at
3:15 p.m. and returning at 8:05 p.m., having made the distance to the crater each way in
about one hour and a half. Found the new lake quite active and regretted to turn our backs
to so grand a sight. It beggars description, and I will not here attempt any flights of
poetical prose, for they will be sure not to reach the first ridge of the summit of
description it demands. It surpassed my most imaginative conception, and the awful and
silent surroundings give to the fires of Hell a deeper and direr aspect.
I must add a kind word for our host and hostess and the Volcano House. Aloha.
Geo. Bixby, Long Beach, California, 28 Sept 1887
I never saw anything like the volcano elsewhere.
Dr. Max Haldicke, 30 Sept 1887
A pleasant stay of two days at the Volcano House, a delightful and thoroughly
enjoyable trip to the crater, and now we must reluctantly say goodbye to it all.
W.T. Kittredge, Santa Rosa, Cal., 27 Oct 1887
Two days agreeable stay at the Volcano House and a trip to see Madame Pele's
bubbling capers. Thoroughly endorse all that has been said in all the old registers,
especially the enthusiastic and imaginative visitors who draw greatly from the ideal.
W.I. Forsythe, Oct 1887
Made the descent of Kilauea iki; Mrs. W.W. Whitman also descending. The
writer is uncertain if any other white lady has done the same. The Dana lake quite active;
all at once was a crash and the fringe of cooler lava interior to the rim all fell in; the
surface of the whole lake became immediately several feet lower. Down to a certain
level, the molten lava of the lake had clearly run off into subterranean recesses: the
direction of the running of the molten fluid being toward the N.W.; the trend (surface
trend) of the molten mass of the lake was toward the N.W. This same trend was several
weeks ago, toward the south.
Edwd. P. Baker, 11 Jan 1888
We visited the volcano, found it active. The sight of lava spurting up was grand.
Regret not making arrangements for spending the night at the crater. Spent two nights at
Volcano House, found everything clean and comfortable.
Fred. Throssel, Melbourne, Australia, 1 Feb 1888
The five officers of U.S. Flagship Vandalia, who arrived on the 18th, have all
been highly pleased with their visit to Kilauea and with the courteous treatment received
from Mr. Maby, the manager of the hotel. During our stay we have gained much
information from him, but we would warn future travellers against putting any faith in his
statement that the vertical distance from the Volcano House to the floor of the crater is
only 460 feet. At this writing, just after returning from a visit to the burning lake, we are
convinced that said distance is at least 46,000 feet, and we feel sure that anyone who
walks it under the same circumstances will say the same.
Messrs. Brumby and McFarland visited the burning lake on the afternoon of
March 20th, 3:15 to 9:05 p.m., and were delighted and impressed with the grand sight. It
appeared to us that the lake was very active, and the guide informed us that it was more
so than for some time past. About 6:25 p.m., the lava began flowing over the edge
opposite the cliff where observers stay after dark, and this continued with variation of
intensity until we left--after 7 p.m. At one time four distinct streams were flowing.
During all this time there was great activity all over the surface of the lake, and we
counted at one time ten separate fountains playing with great energy and fairly
bewildering the eye with their beautiful and fantastic forms. Some have said that the
phenomena of this lake of fire are no grander than some of the processes in metallurgical
work, the blowing of a Bessemer converter, for example. Those who have this opinion
have certainly been unfortunate in the time they visited the lake. Having seen nearly all
the pyrotechnic displays of the mechanic arts, we can truly say that they do not compare
with this great crucible of nature. We would advise all who have the time to spare to take
a ride along the west wall of the crater until abreast of Halemaumau and the lake. The
road is good and gives a very pleasant ride, and one gets, perhaps, a better general idea of
the vastness of Kilauea and the position of the cones and lake than from any other point.
M.M. McFarland, Asst. Engr., Vandalia, 18 March 1888
A party of three rain soaked and tired travellers reached the Volcano House on
Tuesday evening about 5:30, were duly dried, fed, and put to bed by mine host Maby.
Wednesday was rainy, misty, and miserable, but we beguiled our misery with a sulphur
bath and on Thursday at 2 p.m. went down into the crater. The lake was not very active,
and we had rather a meagre display; but 5 fountains and moderate agitation. Reached the
house on our return at 9 p.m., feeling that Kilauea had done only fairly well by us, but we
were fully satisfied with the display, as one that was novel and interesting, and shall leave
tomorrow for Punaluu feeling repaid for all the little (and great) discomforts of the trip.
Chas. H. Osbourne, Detroit, Michigan, 6 April 1888
On Sabbath eve Apr. 8th '88 there was quite a bright flow in the right or northerly
extremity of the "break-down"--at the said point we observed a beautiful fiery fountain.
Said valley is fast filling up--some up-lifting processes evidently going on beneath. We
saw a recent cone there last Thursday. It was then invisible here at the house but is today
(Tuesday 10th) easily seen from the Volcano House.
During the last four years great changes have occurred within the crater, a vast
upheaval has taken place, etc. etc. etc.
Chas. H. Wetmore, M.D., Hilo, Hawaii, 10 April 1888
Visited the lake last night. Set off at 4:30, returned by 10:30 p.m., after a weary
ascent. Considerable activity going on--at times four fountains of molten lava were
playing. The surface of the lake was covered with a dark crust of lava, with an oscillating
fiery rim. At times the crust cracked, and waves of red-hot lava slowly rolled out and
gradually cooled. N.B. An umbrella is a very good thing to take with one for protection
against the cold wind. There is little use for the big sticks.
Dr. N. Hacdioka, 13 April 1888
At 7 p.m. on the 17th of April the goddess Pele announced through making some
unearthly noises, which could be plainly heard at the Volcano House, that she was getting
ready for a performance.
Whilst listening to these noises, which sometimes sounded like the blowing of a
sperm whale and sometimes like the snorting of a hippopotamus, the whole crater and
surroundings were suddenly brightly illuminated.
A large stream of lava was submerging from the eastern side of Halemaumau and
flowing down to its base. On the appearance of the flow the noises ceased at once, but the
illumination lasted all night and continued during the night of the 18th.
The brightness of the lights at the southwest side, and extending to the northeast
around the cone of Halemaumau are plain signs of far greater activity in all parts of the
crater as observed since my arrival here on the 11th.
Heavy clouds of smoke are hanging over Maunaloa.
A. Jurgen, 19 April 1888
We have been exceedingly fortunate in seeing the volcano at its very best. To
describe it is quite beyond our modest powers, so we shall make no attempt to do so; but
we cannot bid farewell to Volcano House without expressing our thanks to Mr. Maby and
his charming wife for the great kindness and courtesy they have shown us.
Hobert Hay, Pigeon Bay, New Zealand, 12 May 1888
Was terribly impressed with the grandeur of the New Crater, had the pleasure of
visiting it with the ladies and gentlemen above, and found Madame Pele in a great state
of activity. Much obliged to Mr. and Mrs. Maby for their kindness during my visit.
Thos. Mellor, 12 May 1888
I can make no attempt to give any description of what I have seen; beyond saying
that at the time of my visits to Pele's cauldron this evening I witnessed a spectacle well
worth travelling a long distance to see. Six or seven (sometimes more, sometimes fewer)
"fountains" of molten lava playing and surging intermittently every few seconds. The
light from these reflected from the clouds of fumes and steam, which floated over the
scene, gave a new and weird interest to the lava cliffs surrounding the place: the whole
forming a picture which Dore would have loved to reproduce.
There is little or no hardship in visiting this place when one finds the amount of
careful consideration which is shown by Mr. and Mrs. Maby. The hardship is to leave the
spot!
M.H. Gray, Silvertown, London, 28 May 1888
Left Hilo on the morning of May 31 at 6 a.m. Reached the Volcano House at 5:30
drenched through. We were soon made comfortable by our kind host, and sitting in the
magic light of a large wood fire, dreamed sweet dreams of home and other days. On
Friday we went down to the crater with a guide and our party of five. And oh, what a
grand sight! I have come from a land where grand old mountains lift their heads crowned
with eternal snows to the heavens where undying
no signature, 2 June 1888
The above entry ends there because pages 143-146 are missing from the Register.
I scarcely know which to extol the more, the courtesy of the Col. or the kindness
of his lady. Together they form a pleasant prelude to the awful glories of Kilauea.
Susa Young Gates, Provo, Utah, 29 June 1888
I have sat up till two this morning to enjoy the silence and the beauty of a tropical
night and it is with regret that I turn my face away from the scenes of this wonderful
region. I leave Kilauea with the opinion that it is grander than the Mammoth Cave or
thundering Niagara. I can only call to mind but one spectacle within my experience that
was awe-inspiring to a greater degree than "the house of fire"--the spectacle of a great
battle.
LeRoy D. Brown, 30 June 1888
Arrived at Volcano House about 5 p.m. Weather unpleasant. Went down to crater
at 4 p.m. the 7th. The "Church" with the "Poor savage" stood out quite prominent, and
there was a great deal of smoke all round the cone. Walked over a new lava flow from the
"spitting hole" northwest of the new lake. The "blowhole" to the northward of the cone
made a fearful noise. The lake was very active, boiling in from four to eight places. The
level of the lava appeared to be about 15 feet below the edge of the rim, but while the
boiling became more violent, the lava rose steadily, until it only was about one and onehalf or two feet below the rim. The boiling now became terrible violent, and
simultaneously the "spitting hole" began to show more activity. The spray was thrown up
about 40 to 50 feet, and the red glare made the surroundings look very gloomy through
the dense smoke, that in large quantities floated round the cone, so much so that we were
nearly suffocated.
On our way back again, we passed near to the "blowhole" a high rock with several
openings. It made a fearful noise, flames shooting out of the window-like openings.
There was the new lava, over which we walked, was glowing and in a red-hot state an
inch below the surface. There was light in the parsonage, which was reflected from the
tower.
The activity all round increased. Came back to house at 8:30 p.m. and at 9 p.m.
the "spitting hole" sent out a stream of lava, The reflection from the lake was very lurid,
and the whole volcano was at its best. At 12 p.m. the fire in the "spitting hole"
disappeared, the glare from the lake was hardly seen, the Minister in the Parsonage blew
his lamp out after having finished his preparation for Sunday, and as nothing more was to
be seen, I turned in.
My heartfelt thanks to the genial host and hostess.
George Heinemann, 6 July 1888
It is with great pleasure I here acknowledge my extreme satisfaction at seeing the
awful grandeur of nature as exhibited at this volcanic region, and it is with regret that I
have to so soon leave the most hospitable and affable society of mine host and hostess-Col. and Mrs. Maby.
Elihu Parrell, Salt Lake City, Utah, 10 July 1888
Great changes in the crater have been made during the last 11 months, at which
time I visited Kilauea with Prof. Dana and party. The great pit formed by the collapse of
March 1886 was then over 100 feet below the lava floor of the crater at that point, in the
center of which was the great cone; this pit is now essentially filled and in one place a
recent flow has passed over the former wall, obliterating it entirely. The fire lake has
changed from an irregular oblong into a circular lake and is now surrounded by a wall 16
to 20 feet above the molten lava. In activity it does not differ much from Aug. 1887. The
central cone is much higher, indicating that the filling of the Halemaumau pit has been
largely from beneath, though in part by overflow.
This uplift illustrates what Prof. Dana calls the "ascensive force" of volcanic
action. The phenomena attending this are the most impressive to my mind at this time.
W.C. Merritt, 14 July 1888
Great flames of lava were constantly thrown out at short intervals, at the lake, and
large streams of flowing lava were seen coming from Halemaumau.
We extend, also, many thanks to Mr. and Mrs. Maby for their kind treatment.
J. Marion Sims, purser on the steamer Lehua, 15 July 1888
Before leaving this most agreeable resting place we wish to record our
appreciation of everything that has been done for us. Every moment of our two days' stay
at the Volcano House has been full of enjoyment, and we hate to leave so soon.
Our first evening was spent in the crater, in the vicinity of "Dana Lake" which we
found fairly active and well worth visiting in spite of the time and labour spent on the
way to and from Halemaumau.
Visits to Kilauea Iki, the sulphur banks, and other points of interest in the vicinity,
kept our second day fully occupied...
Frank S. Dodge, Govt. Survey, Honolulu, 18 July 1888
Oh, Pele, Pele, goddess of fire,
We do not wish too raise thy ire,
But while we're here
Be of good cheer,
And spurt her up a little higher.
H.G. Woolten, 21 July 1888
Started yesterday at 4 p.m. for the crater, accompanied by the guide, Mr. James
Otiz, my nephew, I.J. Weil, my daughter Edith, and my son Joel. Reached the crater in
one hour and a half. Left there at 7 o'clock. I found the lake much smaller and less active
than the "new lake" which I visited on the 10th of November 1881, but it nevertheless
inspired me with great awe, and was well worth all the hardships of this island trip. We
came up here from Hilo and shall leave in the morning for Punaluu.
A.E. Hecht, San Francisco, 31 July 1888
The undersigned this day visited the Kilauea Crater, leaving the Volcano House at
the usual time and spending 2 1/2 hours from 5 to 7:30 o'clock in view of the crater now
in action. From our observations we found the eruptions confined to spots along the inner
line of the crater's rim, some ten feet below the upper edge of the rim, the agitation
extending from the spot toward the interior and at intervals long streaks of bright liquid
lava appearing across the surface. On our return trip we could see the glow of lava
recently discharged from a slight eruption to the northeast of the main peak.
Frank Otis, Alameda, Calif., 31 July 1888
This is my fifth visit to Madame Pele. The first being in 1857, the fourth in 1878.
The crater has changed completely since my knowledge of it. The basaltic ridge on the
eastern floor has totally disappeared. So also the sulphur banks on the eastern rim of the
caldera. The whole southern floor has been elevated some hundreds of feet. New lakes
have opened. The old "South Lake" and the famous Halemaumau have lost their fires-only the old locality with its steaming cones. The seat of the old fires remains. But in this
locality today--two new lakes--display, especially in Dana Lake, grandly the forces of the
volcano. The lake last night was boiling splendidly, seven fires around its edges being in
constant and violent motion, while at times the whole surface was rent with fiery seams.
In fact, the fire was visible in many places on the floor of the caldera. Mrs. Mott Smith is
with me on her second visit, her first having been in 1862.
J. Mott-Smith, with Damons, Judds, etc., 2 Aug 1888
Earthquake at 7:30 a.m.
J.H. Maby, 21 Aug 1888
At 3:30 p.m. started with Aleck Lancaster as guide. There was a cold drizzly rain
at the time which continued till we reached Halemaumau. We found the trail across the
lava quite an even path. Looked in at the cavernous recesses of "the little beggar" and
"south lake." Did not climb up the sides of Halemaumau as the white sulphurous clouds
would have obscured any view of the interior. We skirted off to the right and on the other
side of Halemaumau we came in sight of "Dana Lake" at 5 p.m. From the eminence
where we stood on saw the seething cauldrons of molten lava. The three ____ mouths of
red flaming lava we had seen from the Kau road the day before had more of the yellow
hue. Two other spots out of view below the side from which we were looking, seemed to
me in as furious commotion, throwing up clots of molten lava over the side. We
descended to the sloping sides of "Dana Lake" and looked over its edge into the fiery gulf
below, gathered some of the brittle vitreous clots of fresh lava and a quantity of "Pele's
Hair," the viscous lava blown by the winds into slightest filaments of a brownish glassy
thread-like density. Then we returned to the original point of observation, sheltered from
the wind by a pile of scree. Across the black surface of the cooled lava would break out a
rippling wave of fire, only immediately to congeal into a wan line of blackness again. Or
a square would break and sink down into the glowing mass below. Or the surface would
rise for some length like the black skin of some huge hippopotamus emerging from
below, only to sink back again into the dark uniformity of level as before. Or a fiery flood
would rise and flow like a wide torrent down the slope, the farther side of the cauldron,
like the floor of the whole pit seeming ______ higher at the further extremity.
Occasionally a jet of fiery lava would spurt up and fall like the dripping fires of a rocket
on the black surface below. At the three points of activity along the edge there was
constant changes of forms of motion. Mostly it was one surging swash of fiery surf
against the sides. The Lake seemed to be an irregular ellipse of about three hundred fifty
in length with jagged precipitous sides, thirty to fifty feet high. Overhanging pieces of
lava would break off and fall to be lost immediately our of sight in the glowing waves
below. These seemed to be eating into the sides constantly. Every once in a while the
edge around the whole circumference would be a glowing rim of fire. Or at some one or
other of the three points of greatest commotion the fiery flood that dashed against the
sides would come tumbling back over itself like the crest of some huge incoming wave.
Or a domelike fountain of fire would lift itself up as the water pouring over the
circumference of an artesian well. As the darkness deepened the sides of the cauldron
disappeared from sight, leaving only the changing outbreaks of fiery lava to be seen,
often rising up as if it would soon break over the rim, and flow down towards the
eminence on which we sat. Dense clouds came from Halemaumau obscuring the whole
scene at times. At 6:30 we lit our lanterns in the teeth of a driving rain and started to
return. We came back without difficulty till we passed the big rocks and came on the hard
pahoehoe. By this time we could not distinguish the rim of the large crater. We turned too
far to the right and finally came out at the side where we could not tell our location. We
kept on to the right along the side till the hill became so low it was evident we were
getting to the Puna side of the caldera. At 8:30 we began to retrace our steps: at 9:30 we
struck the path up the pali: at 10:30 we were at the Volcano House, got rid of our wet
garments; and sat down to a hearty hot supper, having had a splendid time and enjoyed
every moment of the strange experiences we had passed through.
Some Philological Notes. On our way over to "Dana Lake" the first sounds we
heard of the escaping steam seemed like the squealing from a hog pen. This is probably
the origin of the Hawaiian legend of "Kama-puaa," the husband of Pele. Puaa (puaka,
English pork) is Hawaiian for hog. Kama (compare Latin amo is darling, as in other
Hawaiian compounds. "Kama-puaa" is a fabled monstrous hog. "Pele" (compare Belus,
Baal, god of the sea, or the Hawaiian wela) is fiery heat.
C.M. Hyde, Honolulu, 21 Aug 1888
The above party known as "the boys" left Honolulu August 28 p.m. on the "W.G.
Hall," landed at Punaluu 5:30 a.m. Aug. 30. Started for the V.H. Aug. 31 7 a.m., and after
a fine ride on cars, bus, and muleback, last of which was best, arrived okay right side up
with care at 2:30 p.m. Went down into the crater at 4 p.m. and had a very large time. The
"Dana Lake" was very active and boiling up to within a very few feet of the edge. On our
way back we spent an hour at a small hill or cone about 30 feet high that was throwing
out red hot lava in fine style. I got all the money lava specimens we wished. Got back to
the V.H. at 10:10 p.m. Made the trip both ways from house to lake &c. in an hour and
five minutes each. Contrary to reports we heard in Honolulu that we would not get
enough to eat (especially if we came per "Hall") we wish to say that we have had all we
could "put away" and it was good. Mr. and Mrs. Maby have cared for us well, and we
leave for Hilo tomorrow morning well satisfied with our treatment, our visit to the crater
of Kilauea, and of Kilauea Iki, the sulphur baths, etc. We are bound for Haleakala and
hope to fare as well on Maui as we have so far on Hawaii.
Pau--blue lights--curtain.
F.H. Abeel, New York City, and party, 2 Sept 1888
All of Los Angeles, California, and very much pleased by their kind treatment by
Colonel and Mrs. Maby and delighted beyond measure by the volcano and its
surroundings.
W.J. Brodrick, Mrs. W.J. Brodrick, Mrs. Sidney Lacey, 1 Oct 1888
On a tour of inspection from Mahukona to Hakalau via Puna. Visited the crater
last evening starting at 7 p.m. and returning at midnight. Crater very active, an unusual
display of fireworks.
Alatau T. Atkinson, I.G.S., 14 Oct 1888
Arrived from Hilo evening of 13th and visited the volcano with Mr. Atkinson
same night. The "Dana" lake favored us with a grand display. It was throwing up lava in
sheets and showers at 3 points on its margin when we arrived and for some time after.
Presently one point of eruption was exhausted and there only remained there a strong jet
of bluish flame. A crack now showed itself across the further end of the pool from which
a sheet of glowing lava poured out. This was followed by similar displays until the whole
surface had been thus covered by degrees, more than half the pool being at one time in
glowing white heat. The eruption at the side continued and new ones appeared under the
rim nearest to where we sat, the lava pouring over the lip and the showers of molten
cinders being unspeakably fine.
Last evening the weather was very wet otherwise an unusual display of fire to the
east of Halemaumau would have tempted to another descent...
I.S. Webb. 15 Oct 1888
Arrived this date from Pahala. Came by the new road to Volcano House all the
way by carriage and am the first visitor that ever came here by carriage from any landing.
H.S. Tregloan, 28 Oct 1888
Earthquake occurred at ten minutes before 6 p.m. Quite a deep sharp shock, felt
all over Hawaii, on Maui, and also at Honolulu, Oahu.
H.M. Whitney, 8 Nov 1888
Remained here overnight, on my way into Hilo, and shall return on next
Thursday, when I shall make Madam Pele, Portrait, as I understand she has changed since
my last visit.
Theodore P. Severin, photographer, 15 Nov 1888
Came up from Punaluu in Mr. Lee's carriage. Had a very successful visit to the
crater and can speak very highly of Mr. & Mrs. Maby's hospitality and kindness.
Dr. and Mrs. Millar, England, 22-24 Nov 1888
Went into the crater yesterday and made quite a number of new views. The
general appearance of the volcano has greatly changed since I was here last February.
When I was last here the central cone was not as tall as at present, and the old "New
Lake" was at least 200 feet deep and which now is entirely filled in by new lava flows. I
had a splendid view of the "Dana Lake" which was very active. I presume that in the
course of time Kilauea will again sustain her former activity, although the visits there
now in her present state, is a sight to be well admired.
I am under many obligations to Mr. Maby ...
Theodore P. Severin, photographer, 23 Nov 1888
Arrived from Punaluu by the new road, and visited the crater on the evening of
the 3rd, when the lake was brilliant and active. On the 4th we went to the edge of
Kilauea-iki, and in the evening Captain Adams again visited the crater near Halemaumau,
which had risen in level since the previous day and was still more active. We have much
pleasure in testifying to the comfort of the Volcano Hotel and to the courtesy and
attention of Mr. & Mrs. Maby and their servants.
Mrs. R. ___, Honolulu, 3 Dec 1888
Arrived at Keauhou, in Str. Kinau, on the 9th and at the Volcano House on the
10th. Visited the crater on the 11th, and found "Dana Lake" and the "Little Elephant
Cone" which is 300 yards north of the lake very active, so much so that I anticipated an
eruption which took place the same night (the 11th) about 6 hours after leaving the crater.
The flow was from the above cone, and ran along the north wall of the crater, fully a mile
in length, and continued flowing during today. The view of the lake and the flowing river
was very fortunate for me and my visit opportune. A sketch of what I saw, I have left on
record in Mr. Maby's "Sketch Book" to which readers are referred.
There was no earthquake accompanying this eruption, nor any other premonition
of disturbance except unusual activity in the lake and the cone referred to. The emission
of smoke and steam, however, was very heavy on the 10th and perhaps may be
considered as a premonition of eruption.
I leave for Waiohinu on the 13th. (15th visit to the crater.)
There has been no fire in Halemaumau, but the smoke and steam arising from it
have been intense, indicating the approach of the fire which will doubtless burst out ere
long.
The "South Lake" has disappeared altogether, the crater is filled up with rocks and
no sign of a pit or of fire remains in it.
13th. The stream of lava continued to flow from the Little Elephant Cone all night
and to this writing (8 a.m.) thirty-two hours since it broke out.
H.M. Whitney, 12 Dec 1888
Illustrations: Three drawings: 1. View From the Porch, looking towards Halemaumau. 2.
Small drawing of horseback riders near sign, "Hilo 30 1/2 miles.' 3. Small drawing of a
ship. Page 163.
"The elements shall melt with fervent heat" ...
The Lake active, and there was a flow after we had left the crater, the Little
Elephant also intermittently active.
B.Y.B., no date
Arrived here on the night of the 19th after exploration in company with W.E.
Rowell, J.M. Lydgate, D.H. Hitchcock and ___McKinley of the woods to right of the
road from Hilo coming up. At the Half-Way House a trail cut at right angles to the road
ran over deep soil until a-a was reached at a distance of about 3 miles from the road. A
similar trail at a point 4 miles mauka of the 1/2 way house went 5 1/2 miles, by actual
measurement, through rich soil about 2 ft. deep, underlaid by pahoehoe and some very
much decomposed a-a--nothing practically available for road making. No a-a or
pahoehoe was reached, and a view from the top of a tree revealed no apparent change in
the character of the forest. Many palms--loulu--were found. Elevation of the outer end of
trail 1500 feet. Elevation of inner end 2100 feet.
On the 20th a trail was cut at a point 3 miles below the Volcano House for a
distance of 2 miles. Rich vegetable mould mixed with a slight amount of sand, underlaid
at a depth of 2 feet by pahoehoe, constitute the nature of the soil and rock. In some places
the underlying strata was decomposed a-a, but in no case was the surface composed of
rock. Palms were plentiful a fact somewhat unusual, as they do not generally grow at an
elevation of over 2000-2500 feet.
Made descents into the crater on the nights of 20th and 21st. The flow spoken of
by Mr. Whitney on the 13-15 ran for 4 days. It was a-a, a thing very unusual in Kilauea.
There are now two sluggish pahoehoe flows running across the path to the elephant, and
on the south and west there are several flows still very hot. There are about a dozen blow
holes in action besides the lake. There is very intense action in the lake, the surface of
which is 25-30 feet above the general surface of the crater south of it, with a confining
wall built by itself of only about 5 feet in thickness at the level of the liquid lava, on the
south west side; and a thickness of not more than 10 feet at a point 10 feet below the
surface. The surface of the lava rose and fell several times, a distance of 3-4 feet,
although no flow was visible. The pele's hair on the cliffs and adjacent flat south of the
lake is about 4 in. deep, forming a perfect carpet which entirely conceals the rock.
This is my 4th visit to the crater, and the activity is far greater than anything I
have ever witnessed before.
L.A. Thurston, 22 Dec 1888
After a leisurely drive on Mr. Lee's excellent new road from Punaluu arrived at
the Volcano House at dusk, Dec. 24 '88. Spent Xmas Eve and Xmas night both at the
Lake which was in good working order, on the latter visit being specially energetic.
Between the time of the journey down and up on the 25th a large lava flow had crossed
the trail. Have much pleasure in mentioning how comfortable our kind and cheery host
has made things at the V.H. during my stay at Kilauea.
R.D. Givin, M.D., Coleranie, Ireland, 24-27 Dec 1888
In company with Dr. Givin, Chief Engineer Faron and Hon. Edward Dolan, I
came to the Volcano House on Monday Dec. 24 over Mr. Peter Lee's new road from
Punaluu. Found a cordial welcome and a hearty dinner, a blazing hearth, and a
gentlemanly host in the person of Manager Maby. Yet with all these seductive influences
(which proved too much for Messrs. Faron and Dolan) Dr. Givin and I decided that, as it
was our first and possibly last chance, we must spend this Christmas Eve with Madam
Pele in her House of Fire. At a quarter past 8 o'clock we started down into the crater, and
reached the shore of Dana Lake at 9:30. Here we stayed for several hours, fascinated and
awed by the display of gigantic forces at work in this veritable "Hell upon Earth." We
thought the lake was very active, and so our guide allowed it to be, but on the second visit
the evening of Dec. 25 we found it very much more active; some of the display being
magnificent beyond anything my fancy ever suggested. We all put it down as the most
delightful and impressive Christmas ceremony we ever witnessed. Our party the second
night included Messrs. Faron and Dolan. The "Little Elephant" crater was very active
both evenings. Dana Lake, I judge, is not far from 300 feet long by 250 wide and oval in
form. The views to be had on its shores at night will amply reward anyone for a journey
from the "uttermost parts of the earth." I can not speak too highly of this house and the
thoroughly comfortable manner in which it is kept by Mine Host Maby. The Christmas
Dinner--partaken of between the hours of ten and eleven o'clock p.m. Dec. 25--will long
be remembered by "the entire four of us."
May A. Tai the cook, live to eat the hen that scratches on his grass.
Dec. 26, I made a trip to Keauhou and returned. Dec. 27 was spent very pleasantly
here. Dec. 28, I start for Hilo. I hope this may not prove my last visit to the volcano.
Henry C. Lyon, Boston, Mass., 24-28 Dec 1888
Arrived Dec. 28th, visited crater Dec. 29th. Dana Lake active. Unable to remain
long near lake on account of sulphur fumes.
Weather delightful. The trip pays for all the exertion and is one to be long
remembered.
Josephine Deyo, Kingston, N.Y., 30 Dec 1888
Being so much engaged during our limited stay here investigating and
contemplating and endeavoring to understand the numerous objects of wonder in the
vicinity, we have had time to peruse but a small portion of this volume--what has been
read, however, is so accurate and the concurrence of the party thereto so unanimous in
regard to the pleasure and sport connected with a visit to the volcano, that an attempt at
enlargement will be impossible in the time allotted. We leave tomorrow by the W.G. Hall
and the ladies of the party are anxious to find out whether or not it is possible to have a
rougher trip than they had coming down. Dana Lake and the Little Elephant in full blast
and magnificent.
Edwd. P. Ashe, HMS "Hyacinth," and party, 5 Jan 1889
Arrived at Volcano House after a very long and tiresome ride from Hilo. Visited
the crater on the 8th, it certainly is a most wonderful sight though I cannot rhapsodize
over it as some visitors in these pages have done. Returned to Hilo on the 9th after having
received every possible attention and kindness from Mr. Maby.
I. Cumming Dewar, Late Captain 11th Hussars, Yacht "Nyanza," 7 Jan 1889
The volcano fountains very fine, especially on Tuesday. The natural features of
the district are full of interest. The host very attentive and friendly. I wish the S.S.
companies would facilitate travellers using them both for the trip if they desire a longer
stay. The present arrangements make such a plan expensive.
Ethan Clifford, London, 14 Jan 1889
This party of six left Hilo Saturday Jan. 19th at 6 a.m. and arrived at this haven of
rest at 2:30 p.m., went into the crater the same evening and found Madam Pele out in the
very latest style and brightest colors.
We were down again today and visited all the numerous places of interest,
bringing back from the caves enough lava to macadam half of the proposed carriage road
from here to Hilo.
Henry B. Lewis party (Providence R.I.,; Hilo; Lawrence, Kansas; Oakland, Cal.), 29 Jan
1889
--LOOK ON THIS PICTURE-Afternoon--This place is immense on such a glorious day as this has been, and
one might well imagine oneself in Paradise strolling about in the tropical woods amongst
so many kinds of beautiful flowers and ferns and berries--with gorgeously plumaged
birds flitting to and fro, and singing merrily--oh so merrily--as they go!
--AND ON THIS--
Night--Heavens! what an awful sight have I seen tonight! I have looked upon a
lake of fire and a burning mountain! Surely a sight more impressive could not be seen by
the eye of mortal man! Is it not intended to be suggestive of perdition?
Miles Postlethwaite, Whitehaven, England, 29 Jan 1889
I came, saw and am disappointed and shall gladly depart in person on Feb. 5.
T.I. Bergin, San Francisco, 4 Feb 1889
I have come to the positive conclusion that there is more fun at a Hula than at a
volcano.
John F. Siebe, San Francisco, 4 Feb 1889
Left Hilo at 7:45 a.m. Feb. 8th 1889. After one hour's rest, and a jolly time on the
way, we arrived at the Volcano House at 5 p.m., the scenery being magnificent.
Looking towards the crater, we witnessed a new "Lava Flow" which had only
broken out in the morning. It covered a space of about a mile in length and the sight was
perfectly grand. After a hearty meal and a few hours of amusement and greatly pleased
and satisfied with our trip, we retired each one saying his and her "Prayers." About 10
a.m. next day each had a sulphur bath. About 4 p.m. we rolled down the hills and strolled
across the lava to the new "Lake" which we found very active indeed. At 8:30 p.m. we
arrived at the Volcano House again, well satisfied with everything, every comfort being
displayed by the Host and Hostess of the Volcano House.
M______, 9 Feb 1889
Thanks to Mr. and Mrs. Maby's kind attentions we leave this morning for Punaluu
in good condition for the journey after seeing a large lava flow on the 15th going down
into the crater at 4 p.m. and returning at 9 p.m.
Cornel Pearl, 16 Feb 1889
I feel well repaid for my journey here and yet I confess to a disappointment in the
volcano. But then my expectations were o'er extravagant. I fancied from some
enthusiastic descriptions I had heard, that the whole crater of Kilauea ten miles square
was a heaving mass of molten lava beating against the precipitous sides like the surf of
the sea. But the smaller crater which was in unusual state of activity when we visited it
last evening and the streams of flowing lava which burst out unheralded almost under our
feet were very wonderful and impressive and are well worth a journey across the Pacific.
I am disappointed too in the Volcano House. But very agreeably so. I like it for its
unpretending simplicity and its homely and ___________ comfort. I wish for no better
quarters and no more attentive and courteous hosts than I have found in the Volcano
House and in Mr. and Mrs. Maby.
G.W. Baldwin, Boston, Mass., 16 Feb 1889
I can cordially endorse the sentiments to which my friend Mr. Baldwin has given
expression to above. I will only add that being so satisfied with our quarters, we
abandoned the return portion of our tickets by W.G. Hall and intend to remain here for 3
days longer and return via Hilo to Honolulu. May Mr. and Mrs. Maby long be spared to
continue their genial hospitality and give similar comforts to future visitors.
Jas. W. Bruce, 16 Feb 1889
As I am about to leave I wish to express my satisfaction with what I have seen of
the great lake, also the little elephant, and must say that I am well repaid for my visit to
this place.
C. Kaiser, 16 Feb 1889
Left Hilo at 6:30 a.m. and arrived at the Volcano House at 4:30 p.m. Feb. 25. We
stopped at the Halfway House just an hour and a half. After taking a sulphur bath and
feeling very much refreshed we got an excellent dinner and turned in early feeling rather
the worse for wear. The next day I felt a little sore but after walking around then going to
see the crater called Kilauea Iki and eating for the first time some ohelo berries I felt in
good trim for the tramp to the volcano. At 4:10 started for the volcano and found both the
Little Elephant and Dana Lake very active so the guide said. I have seen a great many
wonderful things in my life, but I have never seen and never expect to see anything that is
more wonderful and at the same time grander. It is a sight I never expect to forget and
one that no one can ever form the slightest idea without seeing it. I got back at 9:40
having made the return trip in 1 hour 20 minutes from Lake Dana. I feel very well repaid
for my time, trouble, and expense.
The accommodations at the Volcano House are excellent and Mr. & Mrs. Maby
leave nothing undone that will add to the comfort of their guests. I expect to leave
tomorrow morning on horseback at 7:00 for Punaluu to join the ship.
W.W. Gilmer, U.S.S. Alet, 27 Feb 1889
The Raymon Whitcomb excursionists arrived at the Volcano House via the
Wilder route.
March 1. Visited Kilauea-iki in the forenoon. In the afternoon and evening we
visited Madam Pele and found her domain well heated and illuminated. The two lakes-Little Elephant and Dana Lake--were both very active, and presented a magnificent
spectacle. Very marked changes, we are told, have recently taken place, and from our
observation we should not be surprised to hear of still more changes in the near future.
The sight of these burning lakes is something not likely to be soon forgotten; and several
members of the party confessed that the thoughts suggested to their minds were of a
nature to momentarily cause them to resolve never to unduly tax the elasticity of truth,
nor to rudely violate the dictates of what little conscience they may still have left. We
desire to express our appreciation of the many attentions bestowed by our Host and
Hostess ...
H.C. Lyon, in charge of the party, 28 Feb 1889
Landed at Punaluu at 6:30 a.m. After a delicious breakfast at Lee's hotel, went on
the railway to Pahala, at at 10:30 we left Pahala in a comfortable spring cart with a pair of
mules, and a man on horseback to return the animals. Stopped an hour and a quarter at
the halfway house where we had an excellent lunch. Arrived at the Volcano House at 6
p.m. We found the road up very good indeed all of the way. Volcano appears fairly
active.
Mar. 18. At 4 p.m. we went down into the crater and saw the Little Elephant
boiling, and Dana Lake spouting in fountains. Back to the house at 9 p.m.
J. Austin, Honolulu, 17 March 1889
We have today seen one of the greatest of Earth's phenomena, and are deeply
impressed with the enormous extent of the crater as we first entered it. Looking into the
gigantic caldron filled with its seething, molten lava, we do not wonder that the
superstitious Kanaka saw the manifestation of his deity in the furnace of Halemaumau.
This mighty wonder of the world fully repays any fatigue we endured in reaching it.
C.W. Granniss, San Francisco, 29 March 1889
Very fair weather. Volcano active. Trip satisfactory.
May E. Dillingham, Honolulu, First visit, 1-3 April 1889
Maybe there is a better volcano & equipments somewhere in the world, and
maybe not. This is one to be proud of at any rate. Milton's Paradise Lost can be well
illustrated on every visit to the crater.
Emma L. Dillingham, Honolulu; H.R. Hitchcock 2d, 1-3 April 1889
My trip to the volcano was under favorable conditions of weather, and I was well pleased
with all that I saw and experienced.
J.M. Macdonald, 8 April 1889
Left the Volcano House about half past seven p.m. after resting a couple of hours-made the descent to the crater, and arriving opposite the Little Elephant, found it
unapproachable on account of the dense sulphur fumes. We continued on our trip and
arriving at Dana Lake found it in a state of marked activity, the guide informing us that it
was much more active than for some weeks past. We remained there about two hours
viewing the lake at different points, and at the time of our departure the action of the lake
had increased very considerably--the scene was grand in the extreme. On our way back
we made another attempt to reach the Little Elephant but without success, the sulphur
smoke forcing us back as before. We arrived at the Volcano House after midnight,
immensely pleased with what we saw.
The next day (Monday) we made another visit to the crater, leaving the house at 4
p.m.--only a portion of the party making the trip. We arrived at the Little Elephant shortly
before dark, and the guide immediately noticed that about 15 or 20 feet of the
northeastern bank of the crater had fallen in since the previous night. At this point, where
the caving had occurred, the boiling lava was now spurting and overflowing the bank,
and at times appearing as if the entire lake had risen within a few feet of the edge of the
crater. The lake showed greatest activity at the sides--little or no action being discernible
at other points. The guide went within a few feet of the edge where the lava was
overflowing at times, and succeeded in getting some fine coin specimens. Leaving the
Little Elephant we proceeded to Dana Lake and arriving there about dark, we found the
lake to be in a state of great activity, and grand in the extreme. During our stay of about
two hours, the activity increased very considerably and at the time of our leaving the
entire southern end of the lake was an unbroken line of surging, boiling lava, presenting a
spectacle of indescribable grandeur.
With reluctance we retraced our steps homewards, and on our way back we
visited the Little Elephant, finding the action in the lake considerably increased. We
remained here about a half hour, reaching home after nine o'clock, greatly impressed with
our second visit.
The next day (Tuesday) we made another visit to the crater, with the
predetermined intention of visiting "Halemaumau" and making explorations of the fire
cones to the northeast of "Halemaumau." We did not succeed in reaching the latter crater
on account of the almost insuperable character of the formation, and the dense sulphur
fumes at this point. We then explored the fire cone referred to above, and succeeded in
getting so near as to be able to put the ends of our walking sticks into the fiery furnace.
We then proceeded in driving rain to the Little Elephant and after forcing our way
through the sulphur fumes, we succeeded in reaching the high bluff on the western edge
of the crater, from which point we had a most magnificent view of the lake. The guide
informed us, that we were the only persons, to his knowledge, that had ventured to that
point.
Returning we reached home shortly before dark.
E.C. Macfarlane, Honolulu, 4th visit, 21 April 1889
Visited the "Lua Pele" three times and found it lively on the first occasion,
ebullient on the second, and on the third "active as usual."
Geo. H. Dole, 12 May 1889
Visited the crater today for the second time. The first time was nearly eighteen
years ago. I find the appearance of the crater very much changed. It has filled up some
600 feet and the present lake is some distance from the one I first saw, also much larger
and more active. The road down to the lava is much better than I found on my first visit.
Then it was a Jacobs ladder of very crude construction, and severe on the legs and wind.
I. Marsden, 14 May 1889
Visited the volcano this day in company with Mrs. Mary L. Packard of
Snohomish, Puget Sound. We found the crater very active. Jets of lava spouting up from
the middle and sides, and literally billows of liquid fire dashing on the shores on the west
and south sides to a height of 40 or 50 feet apparently.
We were nearly suffocated in passing the little volcano which our Portuguese
called "sutteam boat." Sulphurous gas was coming out in great volumes and we could not
have stood it 10 minutes more. The wind was so as to blow it in our faces for 10 minutes
before we passed it.
On our return the "way was long, the winds was cold" and a "Scotch mist"
drenched us to the skin, although the stars were shining brightly overhead.
William Newhall, Seattle, 16 May 1889
Found the crater quite active, as many as seven fountains playing at one time, and
about one-third of the area of the lake in violent ebullition.
Geo. H. Williams, Heeia, Oahu, 24 May 1889
Someone had written underneath:
George had just left the Kinau, which accounts for his idea of violent ebullition.
Came from Naalehu yesterday, en route for Hilo, crater very smokey.
H.C. Austin, Hilo, 25 June 1889
Arrived yesterday on foot from Kau, and visited the crater about two hours after
arrival. The lake was very full and active, as many as four fountains would be spouting
fire at one time, throwing it from 15 to 20 feet high at times. If I can never come back
here again; I will try to induce my friends to visit this place. I will start for Hilo tomorrow
on foot, and will be sorry to leave; this is the best climate I have found on these islands.
David Shepherd, Honolulu and Portland, Oregon, 3 July 1889
From New Jersey and Siskiyou
From Canada and Deutschland too
This crowd has gathered here to view
The wonderful volcano
We've tramped o'er clinkers weary miles
We've hid our aches with mournful smiles
But still we're happy all the whiles
We've seen the great volcano.
And it's a marvel, nothing less
A "bigger thing by far" I guess
Than nature's forces could compress
in any other compass ...
John F. Scott, Chicago, 14 Aug 1889
Very little smoke. Immensely active, lava near edge of crater.
July 30, 1910. Second visit. This time volcano also very active, but lava lake
several hundred feet down; much smoke.
Mrs. J.B. Alexander, 22 Aug 1889
...We found it quite active. It was indeed a wonderful sight. One side of
Halemaumau was burning very freely...
James William Robertson, 16 Oct 1889
...We visited the crater on Tuesday evening the 29th and found it in a very active
state. Feel fully rewarded for the trouble and expense of the long journey.
Rev. M.C. Harris, 29 Oct 1889
We the above party of eleven left for the crater at half past three this afternoon.
During the time we were away several shocks of earthquake (twelve in number) from
6:12 to 8:45 took place and Mr. Maby felt very much alarmed for our safety. He sent out
guides to look for us, but the sulphur was so strong that they could not get across the lava
towards the crater, and on our way back we heard a loud crash and steam and smoke we
found ascending from new cracks on the house side of the crater--we found the crater
very active while sitting there, felt a severe shock at about 7:15 p.m. The surface of the
lava was altered between there Volcano House and Halemaumau.
Mr. and Mrs. Roebuck, England, 4 Nov 1889
Arrived at 5 p.m. from Hilo rather tired and hungry. Had dinner at 6 and started
for the crater at 7. We arrived at the crater at 8:15 and found it very active. We got 14
specimens of lava with dimes and nickels imbedded in them, also some Pele's hair. We
were nearly suffocated with sulphur smoke and had a view of a new lake which we
prophesy will soon be larger.
Joseph C. Halliday, Point Arenas, Calif., 26 Nov 1889
Arrived from Hilo the 18th Nov. at 6 p.m. in Volcano House. I spent more than
one week in this beautiful place. Fortunately I had three days fine weather. After a little
rain, sunshine again.
The next day I went to the lake--Halemaumau, and was the fire very active. I have
been on Vesuvius, on Etna in Sicilia, and on Asamayama in Japan, but the greatest sight I
ever saw in my life was the fire lake. I saw in about two hours ten fire fountains larger
and smaller playing round the lake, and it made a profound impression upon me. It was
late when I came back and took dinner at half past 10 p.m.
I am very sorry to leave today for Honolulu, I must confess it was very delightful
here, and I recommend all travelers who come to see the crater to stay here for a couple
of weeks. They will be very kindly treated from Col. Mr. Maby who is full of attentions
for his guests and very amiable indeed!
Marie Elle von Amerling, Austria, 27 Nov 1889
The volcano is much the same it has been since about 4 November 1889 when a
huge crack was formed in the floor of the crater (the direction of the crack being about
northwest and southeast), (extending from circumference to circumference.) A small
segment of the floor of the crater is thus formed: bounded by the northeast arc of the
circumference on one side of the line of the crack on the other. The upward push of
molten lava underneath the floor of the crater seems to have created the crack. Fresh
cooled lava which has come up from beneath is seen at the bottom of the crack. The
formation of this crack was accompanied with a slight sinking of portions of the central
area near the lake. (This central area being two or three hundred feet higher than the area
intersected by the crack.) The weight of a column of molten lava acting hydrostatically,
appears to have created the crack, (the lower end of the column being at the crack and the
upper end being in the region of the lake.)
Edwd. P. Baker, 2 Jan 1890
...Friday afternoon we went to Dana Lake, returning by lantern light. The lake was
in a great state of activity, and we were well repaid for all the fatigue of the trip to it. I
have visited Dana Lake twice before, and I see great changes in that portion of the crater
since one year ago. I think I only voice the sentiments of the members of my party when I
say the Volcano of Kilauea is easily ranked as one of the leading wonders of the earth,
and well worth even a longer trip than some of us have made to see it...
Henry C. Lyon, Boston, Mass., 22 Feb 1890
...We were fortunate in having a fine day and night for the trip to the Lake; and in
seeing the great fire fountain in active operation, showing such a wonderfully varied
display of activity that we lingered until after 9 p.m. on its banks and then came away
with reluctance.
Crosby S. Noyes, Washington, D.C., 23 March 1890
Visited the lake four times this trip. Found it changing with varying activity; on
the whole showing more action than during my last visit in '87.
D. Howard Hitchcock, Hilo, 4 May 1890
This is an experience we will never forget. Words cannot express, pen cannot
picture, nor can the artist's brush paint the fearful, awe-inspiring grandeur of the scene
our party witnessed this night at the volcano. It was very active, at times being a sea of
fire, then crusting over only to break out afresh, bubbling, spluttering, and throwing up
sparks like so many stars. It was a grand though awful sight.
The journey is a terribly fatiguing one but one feels amply repaid.
Mrs. Fred O. Barto, Cleveland, Ohio, 16 May 1890
Illustration: Shaded pencil drawing, appaarently Halemaumau with Floating Islands
grounded, 18890. Page 210.
This afternoon a party went down to the crater consisting of Charles Creighton,
Deputy Attorney General, J.D. McInerny, and D. Logan. I think there was an increase of
activity over the condition of the previous evening, when I visited it in company
with...There was a magnificent display of fire fountains and flows on each occasion. This
evening the whole lake seemed more turbulent than yesterday evening. The whole
surface would heave like an awning in a breeze, then divide up into curious shapes
marked off with rolling rivers of fire; some of these streams would have a dozen
eruptions on their surface at once, while stupendous fountains here and there would be
throwing crimson and orange lava high in the air. The changing colors of the cooling lava
patches and rivulets were beyond description of pen or pencil. Several displays of natural
fireworks while we were there were of a most sublime character.
D. Logan, Honolulu, 17 May 1890
Arrived from Hilo May 18th; went to the crater on May 19th, at 4:15 p.m. and got
back at 10 o'clock. Dana Lake abaout 15 ft. below its banks and active. Visited the crater
again on May 21st at 4:30, getting back at 10 o'clock. Dana Lake about 12 ft. below the
banks and even more active than on the 19th, the cones breaking up at short intervals and
the fountains throwing lava sparks to a height of fifty feet. We observed many gas jets &
flames of green, violet & pale red, some continuing to burn during all the time we were
there. Halemaumau inaccessible on account of sulphurous vapors around the cone.
Bryan Lathrop, Chicago, Ill., 22 May 1890
Since April '82 the change in both the crater and the trail is very marked: the latter
has been improved to such an extent that it now presents no such serious obstacle as
formerly. The Lake last night presented a fine spectacle but in point of size is
insignificant as compared with New Lake and Halemaumau both of which were in action
at the time of my previous visit. In one point the difference particularly noticeable:
whereas the lakes before hardened over with a thick heavy crust which cracked and went
under like huge cakes of ice, last night the surface was hardly more than a scum in
comparison.
F.J. Lowrey, Honolulu, 23 May 1890
Reached Volcano House from Hilo yesterday afternoon and went to the crater at
4:30 p.m. getting back at half past nine. The lake was in a very active condition.
David Pullar, Forfar, Scotland, 25 May 1890
Our party went to the crater July 15, 1890, starting from the Volcano House at
4:00, in a gentle rain, conducted by our faithful competent and good-natured guide
Elmorel. We reached the lake at about 6:30 and returned after nearly two hours
observation of the grandest fire display imaginable. The crater was especially
accommodating and performed in the most approved styles. We are all delighted with the
display...
W.W. Case, Pastor, San Francisco, 16 July 1890
Memo of an ascent of Mauna Loa by W.B. Clark, of Boston, Julian Monsarrat, W.
Gates and L.A. Thurston, under the guidance of Kanae of Ainapo. The time which was
occupied in proceeding from one point to another is given for the information of those
who may desire to ascent the mountain hereafter as a basis of estimate. Left Kapapala
ranch at 5:45 A.M., July 26; arrived at Ainapo 8:30; left at 9 A.M.; arrived Ana Peahi
(upper water-hole) 11 A.M.; arrived Kipuka Kakina camp, at the upper edge of
vegetation, 1:30 P.M. Temperature at this camp, where the night was spent, was as
follows, in the shade:
1:30 P.M., 58 F
6:46 P.M., 48 F
5:00 P.M., 54
6:56 P.M., 47
6:15 P.M., 52
7:25 P.M., 46, Ditto up to 10 P.M.
6:40 P.M., 49
4:30 A.M., 43
July 27 left camp at 6:30 A.M. and arrived at the crater at 11:30. Temperature at
noon in the shade, 49; in the sun, 54; at 5 A.M. on the 28th, 24 out of doors and 28 in the
tent. The entire party, except Mr. Clark, were affected with mountain sickness. Descent
into the crater was made by Mr. Clark and myself at the highest point of the bluff on this
side, near the old Wilkes camp, where there is a breakdown and a debris pile.
There was very good walking on the bottom of the crater, the pahoehoe being
unusually smooth. There was evidence of recent eruption from a blow-hole about the
centre of the crater which was still uncomfortably warm. The eruption was mostly of a
dark pumice stone and a very thin black pahoehoe.
There was steam and some smoke from a spot several hundred yards out into the
crater from the western bank. At the southwestern corner of the crater a dense column of
steam was rising which did not become dissipated for several hundred feet above the rim
of the crater. The spot from which the steam issued was covered with very bright yellow
sulphur extending nearly all the way up the crater, and about two hundred feet wide.
Immediately at the base of this sulphur bank there was a breakdown in the floor of the
crater some one hundred feet deep and several hundred feet across.
L.A. Thurston, 29 July 1890
We, speechless, gazed on either hand
As Kilauea--wondrous! grand!
First bursts on our astonished view
In splendor granted to but few.
We see the molten lava lake
A myriad forms of beauty take
At first, like some tumultuous sea
It surges, rolls, then--suddenly
Faint lines of light, from side to side,
Threadlike, reach out, then gaping wide
Reveal a tossing sea of flame,
Whose beauties pen can never name;
Now here, now there, flame-fountains rise
As if to reach the starlit skies
Lowly at first, then high, and higher
Like giant obelisks of fire
Until, with showers of fiery spray
That gorgeous vision fades away
And now the awful molten tide
Rolls towards us, from yon far-off side
Until, before the waves of heat,
We're forced to beat a quick retreat
The jagged cliffs that hem us round,
In echoes weird, send back the sound
That ever greets the listening ear
When e'er the awful tide rolls near
Borne onward by the seething waves
Great lava-cakes find sudden graves
Engulfed in waves of liquid light
That onward surge in tropic might,
Until the star-decked sky o'er head
By contrast, seems all cold and dead.
Then, though a temporary pall
Of darkness, o'er the scene may fall
We know that never time nor space
The glorious picture can efface
In memory, Kilauea'll stand
The foremost wonder in the land.
Emma Shaw, Providence, Rhode Island, 8 Aug 1890
Our party, consisting of seven, arrived here last evening at 6 o'clock from Hilo,
wet and hungry. We visited the crater of Kilauea Iki this morning, and at 3 o'clock this
afternoon we all went into the crater and spent several hours by the side of Dana Lake.
We found the lake in action, and after we had been there a short time, the whole
surface of the lake was in violent commotion and fire spray was thrown up from a dozen
places under the rocky banks.
The volcano was unusually active today, according to the guide, and every
member of our party feels more than satisfied with the trip. We have been much favored
in having a fine day for our trip, and we stayed at the lake until 7 o'clock in order to have
the full benefit of the darkness.
William W. Hall, Honolulu, 5th visit, 13 Aug 1890
I have never found the volcano so active; and when we came to the house we
were delighted to find a nice little pig awaiting us.
Charlotte Hall, 1st visit, 13 Aug 1890
During our stay of about two hours at the crater, we saw two magnificent displays
when the entire surface of the lake was gradually and quite rapidly broken up into one
seething mass of flame. Soon jets of liquid lava--of an indescribable color--were thrown
from many parts of the glowing surface. An interesting phase of these displays was the
falling to the depth of about two feet of the lake immediately after the breaking out into
flame. This fall left the dark margin hanging above the throbbing golden sea. As the lake
surface cooled it seemed to rise to its old place...
Luella C. Carson, Portland, Oregon, 16 Aug 1890
Dana Lake and lake on east side of Halemaumau very active.
J.H. Maby, 8 Sept 1890
No fire in the crater. Dana Lake dead.
J.H. Maby, 9 Sept 1890
We went down to the volcano and stayed there for about one hour without seeing
much. Then we lost our patience and went back, after we were out 40 minutes, the crater
began to act and we were consequently disappointed.
George Wendt, Berlin, Germany, 9 Sept 1890
We arrived yesterday 8 1/2 hours from Hilo, counting hour for lunch. Rode on
horse and muleback all the way and enjoyed the new section of road very much, no
particular word of praise for the last half. We were disappointed to learn on arrival that
"Madame Pele" had gone out of business at Dana Lake and had not fully decided where
to open up her show for the fall and winter. Went down into the crater at 10 a.m. today
and visited the east side of Halemaumau to see the "volcano" referred to by the gentlemen
above who were down last night. We found two blowholes about 600 feet apart and a
flow from each of them had covered several hundred square feet. The one furtherest to
the south looks as if it would soon form a lake about the size of Dana Lake about that
much space having already sunk 5 to 20 feet below the level of the surrounding lava
beds. We next went to Dana Lake and found it quite dead, except for a little steam and
smoke, walked well on to the lake but found it very hot toward the middle and could see
fire in many cracks. Returning we arrived at the V.H. at 4 p.m. having had a beautiful day
and a
very enjoyable time in the crater.
E.O. White, Honolulu, 2d visit, 11 Sept 1890
Open lake again.
J.H. Maby, 16 Sept 1890
Two active lakes in the crater.
no signature, 23 Sept 1890
A flow on east side of Halemaumau blowhole, north side and Dana Lake west
side. Much variety.
Edwd. P. Baker, 25 Sept 1890
Visited volcano last night and found that a new lake had commenced operations.
We named it Le Conte Lake. Today I left my visiting card at the bottom of Kilauea Iki.
Sam S. Peck, San Francisco, 10 Oct 1890
Our party of four ladies and four gentlemen arrived here day before yesterday,
"the voyage up" having been made in 6 1/2 hours. We left Hilo at half past eleven, having
but just arrived in the new interisland steamer Claudine. Two hours brought us to the end
of the fine government road, where we left the stage and mounted one mule and seven
horse, reaching the Volcano House and comfort at 6 o'clock. The company's men said we
could not get through until long after nightfall, but the intrepid horsemanship of the ladies
outdistanced our best expectations and won universal praise.
One of our party, Mr. Sam S. Peck, whose autograph appears near the bottom of
the preceding page, went to the crater that evening. The next morning, yesterday, he set
out alone for Kilauea Iki, reached it quickly, and, impelled by the youthful spirits of
adventure and the genuine zeal of the explorer, he began the descent toward the bottom.
His spirits going up as his body went down, he clambered, jumped, slid and tumbled until
he reached the very lava of that old crater floor. Three of us tourists soon after reached
the top when the quick eye of the guide caught sight of Mr. Peck's coat on the bushes part
way down. A shout brought an answering shout, and lo, we decried him, like a spider of a
man, down at a depth that amazed us, engaged in the struggle of the upward climb.
Reaching the surface he declared that the adventure was foolish, but we all praised, at
least, his courage and perseverance.
The remaining seven of us, with a new arrival as the eighth, visited the crater
yesterday, leaving a quarter before four, and reaching the hotel in return at a quarter after
nine.
Lake Halemaumau was not quite so active as reported the night before. Yet the
dark lava crust showed fire cracks in many places, with frequent ebullitions and
outpourings of a molten mass. One place, in particular, near the northeastern quarter,
maintained a steady flow. Our guides went right down to the verge of the lake, thrust
their sticks through the piecrust on top, pulled out little masses as do glass burners from
their furnaces, and placed in them sundry coins as a curiosity. Near us the lake
maintained a constant series of puffing explosions as if of pent-up steam, but from any
point made by us it was not practicable to observe their real nature. The cones in the lake
displayed fine pyrotechnics of lava jets and balls, with but slight interruption.
Starting on toward Dana Lake we soon reached what Mr. Peck called Le Conte
Lake, which the night before had been one molten sea. It was more quiet under our first
view but immediately began to perform, a center of surging fire appearing from which a
molten rim rapidly expanded until the whole area was brilliantly covered.
Dana Lake maintained its eminent reputation, the entire mass, surface and depth,
boiling violently, and throwing up spouts and bombs of fire. The guide said the surface
was about 200 feet long and 100 wide. But we discovered that what seemed its shore was
not a shore, but only a shelf or floor under which the fiery molten caverns extended an
unknown distance. At times the mass of tempestuous, boiling lava seemed impelled by a
rapid current to the western end, and pouring out of sight into an invisible vortex.
A very striking feature, which the guide pronounced new, appeared some distance
perhaps south from Dana Lake. An active eruption, apparently on the crater's rim,
probably a third or halfway toward the top, poured out a liquid, fiery mass which flowed
in a tortuous stream downward toward the center of the crater. Its flow and figure made a
veritable river of fire.
We leave today well pleased with our trip, our entertainment and the general
experiences of these three days, notwithstanding the abundant rain.
We have taken a lesson in the processes of nature and the limitations of man.
Chauncey N. Pond, Oberlin, Ohio, 11 Oct 1890
After a somewhat rough journey this hospitable roof was obtained on the 20th and
the same evening I was allowed to join a family party and pay my respects to the Dana
Lake. We were favoured by a first rate flow of lava and saw the birth, rise, and fall of a
new vomitorium and from the house on our return the glow of this new escape and the
other orifices was glorious in the extreme.
An observatory should be established here as soon as possible and I may
recommend Mrs. Maby to observe whether the moon influences the activity of the crater.
I could see no bright lines in spectrum of the lake.
M. Horner, England, 21 Oct 1890
Found Dana Lake very active, as also a smaller lake about 100 yards from Dana
Lake. Saw three different flows and had to make a long detour to get around one flow to
reach the Lake. Got some good coin specimens, but failed to get them safely to the
Volcano House.
T. Forbes, 26 Oct 1890
Apres 30 ans de voyages, apres avoir navique sur biens des mers, apres avoir
visite les iles du Pacifique, les volcans de la Nouvelle Zelande, le Krakatoa dans les iles
de la _____, le Popocatepetl au Mexique, et les volcans des Andes, je donne la palme a
celui de l'ile____ Hawaii qui presente le plus imposant spectacle qu'on puisse rever et
imaginer. Je n'ajoute rien parce qu'il est impossible de depeindre l'effet produit par ce
gigantesque cahos.
T. Ziegler, Paris, 31 Oct 1890
Although we have not Mr. Ziegler's experience we have witnessed such an
imposing sight that we fully concur with the above statement.
Charles Atherton Tinkham, Chicago, Ill., 31 Oct 1890
The lake in violent ebullition. I saw Kilauea for the first time in May 1881, but I
have never seen the molten lava of Kilauea boiling so violently as today; although in
former years action equally violent was often observed (20 I think).
Edwd. P. Baker, 5 Nov 1890
We visited "the lake which burneth with fire and brimstone," and saw "the flames
of damning fire."
Mrs. Sophie Boyd Pratt, 8 Nov 1890
This is my second visit.
My first visit to "Dana" lake was on June 20, 1889. Since then, the surrounding
formation has changed considerably.
On my first visit, I stood upon "Halemaumau" and looked down into the "Dana"
lake, about 200 feet beneath.
On this occasion (second visit) an overflow from "Dana" the previous evening,
surrounding Halemaumau prevented its ascent, so we were compelled to view the lake
almost on a level with itself. Dana Lake, in June 1889, was the center, and surrounded by
high bluffs; at the present writing it is encompassed by an almost circular wall, standing
about ten (10) feet above the surface of surrounding cooled and Pele's-hair covered lava.
On this occasion I was fortunate to witness a grand pyrotechnic display; the entire
lake is a turbulent sea and seething fiery mass. There are no changing gray spots of crust
to sink and burn and to form again; the lake is all active molten lava; roaring, surging,
splashing, laving the encompassing embankments with its consuming surf. Great sheets
and flakes of fiery liquid would now and then rise in fury to considerable heights and in
falling would splash on the embattlement that held it captive, running over and down on
the outside.
An opening appeared on one side of the rim, in the shape of a blow-hole, from
which with a roaring sound great jets and sparks of lava flew out forming Pele's hair.
The surging lava within the lake would ebb and flow; now appearing almost to run over
the rim of the wall, and then again receding and sinking three or four feet below.
Several large blow-holes in the immediate vicinity of the lake, were very active
and vied with each other in throwing high into the air immense quantities of molten
sparks, with noises that sounded like a heavy stream of water being played upon the side
of a house by a fire hose company.
A. Gartenberg, 17 Dec 1890
As seen from the verandah of the V.H.
9 p.m. An immense conflagration is in progress. Dana Lake looms up in all its
glory and brightness.
Moving clouds of white smoke and steam illumed by the light of the fire from the
molten mass drift slowly away and heavenward.
Now and then fountains of fire shoot up from both "Dana" and the new lake
("Maby") forming to the ________of Halemaumau.
In the darkness outside of the glare of the burning lakes appear eight lights,
showing up like street lamps in the distance; these are blow-holes.
10 p.m. A long ridge of fire is flowing from "Dana Lake." The new lake is
spouting magnificently.
Between the N.L. and "Halemaumau" there appears to be a new outburst, as lava
is being thrown high into the air from that point. Innumerable lights are showing in front
of Halemaumau. The scene is weird! Indescribably grand! The lights in front of
Halemaumau have merged into a large leaping fountain of fiery lava.
I stand in the doorway of my room, fascinated with awe at the spectacle that is
being enacted before me.
I am alone and wish for company to bear witness to the magnificent display of
Hawaii's natural wonder; which I am now feasting my eyes on.
My line of vision is about three miles from the scene of conflict; words can not
depict the supreme grandeur of the illumination and pyrotechnic display.
11 p.m. There are now two fountains spouting alternately in front of
Halemaumau. The new lake is in great state of ebullition, several fountains can be seen
playing high above the horizon.
A. Gartenberg, 18 Dec 1890
First visit to Hawaii, arrived at night time and saw the craters with splendid
activity. Went down there next day passing over fresh flows of hot lava.
C. Thoel, Honolulu, 20 Dec 1890
If my pen was one of fire,
And could burn its way like "Pele's" ire!
I would gladly describe; could you believe,
The sight I saw this "Christmas Eve."
Mai Fai, Christmas, 1890
...In the afternoon visited Kilauea, found Dana Lake unusually active.
no signature, 27 Dec 1890
The crater is more active than I have ever before seen it. On the night of the 2d
spouting lava could be seen in 5 different places from the verandah of the Volcano
House.
Dana Lake and the new lake are both in a continuous boiling condition, throwing
up lava from 40 to 60 feet. Dana Lake has built up a wall around itself of from six to 16
feet high, and the surface of the liquid lava is about ten feet above the surrounding
country.
I paced Dana Lake off along the base of the wall, making it 82 paces long, It is
about one half as wide.
There are nine active blowholes within a radius of 200 feet, this side of Dana
Lake, about a quarter mile, with every appearance of forming into a lake.
Two of us climbed the north wall of the central Halemaumau debris cone. The
cone is a circular crater with a level fresh lava floor about 100 yards across.
L.A. Thurston, 2 Jan 1891
Went down into crater with the four persons aforesaid at 11 a.m. Returned to the
Volcano House at 9:30 p.m.
Explored floor of crater. "New Lake" resembles an irregular bowl of 75 feet
diameter, sides six to ten feet high. Lava inside at white heat, surging, boiling, bubbling,
sputtering, swashing and dashing itself against the sides. Sometimes slopping over like
described in this book--we stood on blocks of lava right against the sides of the bowl,
dodging the small pieces occasionally thrown out.
"Dana Lake" is similar, say four times as large, with higher walls and boiling with
more intense fury, reminding me of a bay of liquid fire and brimstone, with a hundred
fiery demons bathing within, possessed with ceaseless power of motion, diving,
springing, jumping and leaping about and exploding into a thousand fragments, shooting
50 feet into the air. We sat upon some cooled lava and watched by the hour.
There were 15 or 20 blow holes scattered about us, all seeming to open into a
turbulent subterranean river, out of some the lava was shot with great velocity, high into
the air. Others breathed a blue flame with regular pulsations of sound louder than that
from the valve of any engine of man's making. The solid lava trembling with the throes of
the monster confined within.
No man would be insane enough to think of firing and running this immense
furnace for one hour. Yet how many, will unblushingly tell the Creator of this sublime
work what attributes he ought to possess and how he ought to run the machinery of the
spheres with their myriad inhabitants.
Query. Which is the most fatiguing, first the trip from Honolulu to Hilo per Kinau
over a rough sea, second riding a sawbuck horse from Hilo to Volcano House, or third
spending a day exploring the crater???
Toasting your weary anatomy before the V. House fire and eating a good chicken
dinner after the three suits.
George A. Howard, Los Angeles, 3 Jan 1891
This party found a new lake about 500 feet south of Dana Lake and very active,
some 75 feet long and 30 feet across.
no signature, but a group of visiting cards inscribed, 10 Feb 1891
Far from the lands of snow and ice
I've hied me to this Paradise,
When lo! right here (excuse me, ladies)
I've also found the way to Hades.
H.E. Wilcox, California, 10 Feb 1891
I was here on Feb. 11, 1891. Not being satisfied with my former visit. I was in the
crater this afternoon and evening. The display is simply grand. I can now leave it with
perfect satisfaction. But with the desire to see it again in the near future...
F.M. Farwell, Saratoga, California, 24 Feb 1891
My fourth visit to Kilauea. The changes since I was last here--February 1890--are
numerous and great. The three active lakes now are new ones--called Maby lake, the new
lake, and Dana Lake. All are very active, and the displays are simply magnificent. We
left the Volcano House 3 p.m. Feb. 24 and returned 9:30 p.m...
Henry C. Lyon, 23-25 Feb 1891
9:30 p.m. Slight earthquakes at the time of shaking the cones of Halemaumau
settled down.
From Sept. 10 to March 6 all the fires in the crater were very active and flows of
lava was plainly seen over the floor of the crater from the house.
At 9:10 p.m. on the 7th a slight shake was felt at the house.
On the morning of the 8th on looking over the crater we saw that the cones at
Halemaumau, the Dana, and Maby Lake had sunk out of sight.
The cones of Halemaumau loomed up above the level of the crater some 200 or
more feet before the earthquake of the evening of the 6th.
It being just five years to a day between the time of the bottom dropping out on
March 6, 1886 and the present drop out.
J.H. Maby, 6 March 1891
Finished survey of Volcano Road. Elevation veranda of hotel, 3971.6 feet (by
levels from sea level from Hilo).
The volcano is a thing of the past--there is no fire, and no bottom to the crater.
William W. Bruner, 15 March 1891
Went round the Halemaumau chasm. The brink is a sheer precipice but the
descent becomes tunnel shaped one-third or half the way down. A rope or excavation
would be required to enable a person to descend. The depth seems to be the same (a little
less possibly) as in 1886. It is smoking at the bottom and at another place eastward of the
bottom. My recollection is that there was no smoke in the chasm in 1886. So soon after
the dropping down, 6th Mar. 1886 and 6th Mar. 1891, are the dates of the dropping down
of Halemaumau. 18 March 1886 I descended into the chasm and 18 March 1891 I went
round it. One must not prophesy, but judging from the past there is good ground for
hoping a return of the fire. The Halemaumau chasm, being clear cut all round and the eye
being able to take it in at one view, reminds me of the summit crater in Mauna Loa,
Mokuaweoweo.
It is fortunate that we have the same excellent manager to report the 1886 and
1891 disappearances of the molten lava, so that the two eruptions can be more readily
compared.
Edwd. P. Baker, 18 March 1891
Leaving San Francisco March 10 we were very much disappointed on our arrival
at Honolulu, to hear of the going out of the Volcano Kilauea, that being the principal
object of our trip. Yet after a rather rough voyage from Honolulu to Punaluu, finding very
comfortable quarters at Mr. Lee's, a very interesting trip from there to the Volcano
House, with the kindness of Mr. and Mrs. Maby, seeing such a hole in the earth, where so
short a time ago was a mound of lava two hundred feet high, some steam, smoke, and
red-hot crevices in lava so near the large sink, are leaving the place feeling amply paid
for the journey, though sorry we were not here a month sooner.
T.J. Williamson, John Long, Muncie, Indiana, 23 March 1891
The goddess "Peli" a lady of high rank
Was the daughter of a fire and mud bank
The bank it busted and "Peli" she dusted
And now she is blank! blank!! blank!!!
Geo. Chauncey Dewey, West Virginia, 28 March 1891
Fine weather, comfort and good feeding at Mr. Maby's--everything jolly except
that there is not a vestige of fire in Kilauea.
R.U.L., 28 March 1891
Last person to register under the Wilder Steamship Co's management. No fire at
all in the crater.
Clarence L. Crabbe, Hilo, 2d visit, 30 March 1891
March 31st 1891 the last day of the Wilder Steam Ship Co. as owners of the
Volcano House., April 1st the places passed under the management of the new Volcano
House Co. with W.R. Castle as President.
no signature
Also the first person to register under the new Volcano House Company.
Clarence L. Crabbe, Hilo, 2 April 1891
Brevity they say is the soul of wit
Tis well many here, should not forget.
Kilauea at present has lost her grip,
Who knows but that the Crater is to let?
W. Grayling Temple, Pall Mall, 3 April 1891
About 11 p.m. this day the fire returned in the sunken pit of Halemaumau, after
having been extinguished 35 days. When first inspected on the 11th of April, the fire was
very small, occupying or puffing out of a small hole at the bottom, not more than four or
five feet in diameter.
H.M. Whitney, 10 April 1891
First load of lumber for the new Volcano House arrived here at 1 p.m. Five hours
from the Half Way House.
E.N. Hitchcock, 11 May 1891
No entry
Queen Liliuokalani and party, May 14, 1891
Last visit to crater was in Nov. 1886 (p.86) following the breakdown of 1886
Mar. The condition in the crater was totally different to what one sees today. The first
thing which struck me is the greater height of the bed of the crater in the Halemaumau
region, produced, I should judge from inspection, by frequent overflows of lava, rather
than by a bodily lifting or forcing up of the bed. A very wide and deep crack crosses the
path, perhaps a quarter of a mile from the foot of the sand hill (where the road starts over
the floor). It was not here in Nov. 1886. It makes me think of the breakdown of 1868. In
1886 the place where the "New Lake" was, was represented by a deep depression with
sides precipitous in places. Today that spot is high and rather of a a ridge--running from
Halemaumau's bank S.E. Halemaumau is now represented by a profound and forbidding
abyss--nearly circular, into which no descent is possible. We made a very careful
examination on all sides and Eddie N. Hitchcock boldly climbed down a mass of broken
debris for 50 to 75 feet in depth, then came to a precipice of 50 feet high to the lower
debris. It was the only place as nearly approachable as that and is on the S.W. or W.S.W.
side of the pit. The pit is, so far as I can judge, 2000 or 2500 feet long and nearly as wide,
greater axis N.E. to S.W. and when the break-down occurred must have been represented
pretty nearly by an inverted cone. The inverted apex has now filled up with fresh lava to a
depth in the center of about 75 to 100 feet, and nearly in the middle of this smooth lava
bed is the new lake or center of activity. A party which went down the night of the 19th
say the activity was intermittent, but very violent and magnificent. Last night--21st--it
was continuous from the deeper pit or hole in the east side and intermittent from the south
and west sides of the lake-- making 2 or 3 centers of action, which appears to be a new
development. The action in the east hole or pit was very fine. The lava returned to an
unknown depth, then swelling with beautiful scintillations till the hole was filled, terrific
explosions followed, ejecting portions of the lava to a great height, say 50 to 100 feet (if
the great pit is 400 feet deep) while the larger portion overflowed to the S.W.--sometimes
nearly filling the lake. This pit is building a cone for itself to the N.E. or E. and appears to
be covering in. If it succeeds in so doing probably it will burst out elsewhere. There is a
continual hissing and roaring--but the explosions with loud reports (last night) came at
intervals of 5 to 10 minutes. This action is wholly new to me and is very interesting. The
action in the S. & W. of the lake resembles that so well known in Kilauea--viz., the black
surface begins to smoke, then cracks run across, then the whole surface breaks up and
boils with surges and small fountains. The heavy volumes of smoke only follow periods
of intense activity from the E. pit. Below I attempt to give some idea of Halemaumau's
appearance as I saw it, evening of May 21, 1891.
I forgot to note one interesting feature. The breakdown must have been gentle and
easy, as large portions of the former upper surface (original) are intact--except some
cracks & steep incline.
William R. Castle, 7th visit, 19 May 1891
Illustration: Three drawings, 21 May 1891, W.R. Castle: 1. Rough map of Halemaumau,
showing possible route to Lake. 2. Cross section, breakdown of Halemaumau, with Lake
and cone at bottom. 3. Cross section of the Lake, showing cone in detail. Page 258.
Today, in company with E.N. Hitchcock and Geo. P. Castle, walked around the
crater, visiting Kilauea-iki and Keanakakoi on the way. Between the two--on a bluff
visible from the head of the road into the crater--examined the head of the eruption which
flowed into Kilauea-iki and the great crater. Most of the trees which I saw standing in
Nov. 1886 with dots and masses of lava in the branches have fallen, but three or four are
standing and they, with other things, are well worth a visit. To the E. of Keanakakoi is a
lovely picnic ground, sloping down to the crater, protected from the cold wind, covered
with beautiful trees and well grassed over. Around this crater are found the very hard and
tough rocks from which the ancient stone axes of the Hawaiians were made. Besides this,
are other hard and many-colored stones and rocks, one appeared to be veined with quartz-perhaps gold or other metal will be discovered here.
From Keanakakoi we went into Kilauea on the long sand cape projecting at that
point. It brought us within a half mile of Halemaumau--whence the way was easy over
very good lava, which however was hot. Reaching the break-down in the south side we
saw at once that two days had wrought much change in the appearance of things below.
The cone at the east end of the lake is much higher and is more nearly approaching a
perfect cone shape--as the furious outbursts of lava are gradually covering their points of
exit. Outflows of lava have filled what was a deep depression below the general lava
floor. Occasional action continues on the S. & W. sides of the lake.
But the notable event of the trip was Ed Hitchcock's daring descent into the pit.
He tried again from the S.W. side, this time descending through a crack opening into the
pit--from the crack's end he carefully went down over piles of loose debris, tumbled at
such an angle that a very little cause must have precipitated the mass into the gulf.
Thence he went over a broken mass of rock and loose material, till the lower slope was
reached, over which he disappeared from sight, to reappear 42 minutes from the top, on
the smooth hot bed of fresh lava. Sulphur fumes and smoke at times were stifling but he
succeeded in getting within 80 to 100 feet of the burning cone, and reports intense heat,
and action just under the surface--which breaks up and melts occasionally. He is the first
to descend into the new Halemaumau, and to bring out specimens of its new lava which
is like most of "Pele's" an intense black. We returned by the S. bank of the crater and the
Uwekahuna bluff, which is always well worth a visit, and rested ourselves with a steam
and sulphur bath.
Wm. R. Castle, 23 May 1891
For the information of tourists as to the time of building New Hotel, I make this
record. I arrived here June 25th and commenced work June 29th. workmen's names: J.H.
Craig, Foreman, Al Gilbert, A. Anderson, Wm. Lewis...Geo. A. Howard, Archt. &
Contractor.
Geo. A. Howard, 29 June 1891
...I have seen many of the natural wonders of the world: the Yosemite, the geysers
of the Yellowstone, Niagara Falls, the great Muir glacier in Alaska, the Colorado Canon,
the great snow-covered mountains of Mexico, the Giants Causeway in Ireland, Mont
Blanc on a clear morning forty miles in the distance, Mt. Vesuvius in eruption at night,
but none of these offer any thing so grand, so awfully sublime, so mighty in power, as
this great burning lake in the crater of Kilauea.
O.J. Hodge, Cleveland, Ohio, 29-30 June, 1891
Favoured by the finest weather: the lake was found in good condition, about 350
feet down, and half mile in circumference.
At this point we the above tourists found the New Kilauea Volcano House
Company's large new hotel building progressing in a most substantial manner and
notwithstanding the large number of mechanics to be boarded we find that our host Mr.
Peter Lee is a most genial and perfect caterer.
Pleasant were the Old House comforts.
H.C. Runger, Seneca Falls, N.Y., and party, 1 Aug 1891
Illustration: Three sketches of hikers on crater floor, 1 Aug 1891: 1. "Our guide loses his
way." 2. "Patience on the lava." 3. "A little more down this way." Includes Halemaumau
smoking in distance. Page 268.
Have spent very pleasant day here. Crater both interesting by day and night. Quite
different from when I saw it six months ago. Fine subject for pen or pencil.
Wm. A. Yeats (London, England), Kukuihaele, Hamakua, Hawaii, 5 Aug 1891
The Telephone from Hilo was completed Aug. 8th, 1891.
N.B., 13 Aug 1891
...In Re Volcano: The impression formed from a perusal of the registers included
at least an accurate history of the changes of this great wonder of Nature: but a few
critical observations from evidently intelligent writers prepared me for what is popularly
called a "sell." But the fact "settled it" in favor of the enthusiasts. The scene is never-tobe-forgotten. And though not so terrifying as when the lava flowed over the banks of the
ever changing lakes of fire, yet the (now) lake itself seems to me as awe-inspiring as
anything in Nature possibly can be. The visit has been extremely satisfactory.
V.M____, Toronto, Canada, 14-16 Aug 1891
Work was renewed on the remaining portion of the Volcano Road at
Keawaanakaaha in Olaa on August 13, 1891. The work is principally to be done by
prison labor, with an additional expenditure of about one thousand dollars a month. Nine
miles of road must be built before a connection is made with the old trail at the cattle pen-from which point it is six and a half miles to the Volcano House.
Aug. 15. I descended with Mr. A.L.C. Atkinson into the crater of Kilauea-iki, and
we together made the ascent in less than twenty-five minutes.
Wm. N. Bruner, Honolulu, 14-16 Aug 1891
Visited the Lake of Kilauea and went down to the floor of the crater where the fire
was melting.
P.M. Haili, Jr., 17 Aug 1891
Went into crater. The molten lava has greatly risen within 4 months. In May last
the liquid fire was 4 or 500 feet below the surface or brink of the chasm, it is now up
about 200 feet below. The molten material is sufficiently hot to keep the crust on the
surface of the lake steadily viscid, and bearing about the same relation to the liquid mass
below, which cream bears to the milk in a pan which it covers. The molten lava in the
lake was flowing from the northwest towards the southeast. The chances are that the
entire chasm will be filled up in a year or so; perhaps more than a year will be required to
fill it up, perhaps less.
Edwd. P. Baker, 14 Sept 1891
Although the elements conspired against us and our physical endurance was
severely taxed, still we saw Kilauea in all its sublimity. Not the least of our pleasures was
the courteous treatment we received at the Volcano House.
Mr. and Mrs. Irving F. Baxter, Omaha, Nebr., 22 Sept 1891
Reached this place in a pouring rain from Kulani hill, where we are camped.
The new house is fast nearing completion.
3:50 p.m. rode over on horseback to the edge of the Lake, making the trip from
the house to the Lake in 55 minutes. Find a few changes since my last visit, on July 27,
1891. The lava seems to have risen some 75 or 100 feet higher, and is about 250 feet
below the floor of the crater. The walls to the right and to the left of the observation point
have fallen in, making the central pit much larger.
Lake about the same as before and very active.
E.D. Baldwin, Ast. Govt. Survey, 23 Sept 1891
Commenced work on New Hotel June 30, 1891. Finished the Hotel buildings Oct.
9, 1891. The number of men employed would average about 15.
Geo. A. Howard, Los Angeles, Cal., 10 Oct 1891
Second visit, first June 1883. Find the trail much improved, and think that the lake
itself is better now than it was eight years ago. I have been here three days and have been
handsomely entertained by Mr. Lee and his brother. During my stay there has been a
slight shock of earthquake, Mrs. Lee being the only person here who felt it although we
learn by telephone that it was felt all along the country.
C.J. McCarthy, Honolulu, 13-16 Oct 1891
Newspaper article: The Volcano at the World's Fair: Pacific Commercial Advertiser, 20
Oct 1891, page 277.
Here is a the text of this news clipping:.
It looks now as though our modest little country might furnish one of the chief
attractions of the Columbian Exposition, viz., a panorama of the volcano. Among the
passengers who arrived by the last Australia, as is known, were Mr. Walter Burridge and
Mr. Webster. The latter is on the staff of the Chicago Inter-Ocean, a daily with a
circulation of about 80,000 and has been engaged by the Volcano House Co. to write for
the Inter-Ocean, a series of twelve articles on Hawaii. Mr. Burridge is a leading
landscape artist of Chicago, and has charge of the scene painting of the leading Chicago
theater. He has been employed to come here to paint a cyclorama of the volcano, to be
exhibited in Chicago in 1893...
20 Oct 1891
Our Burridge, having run out of red and yellow paint, the cyclorama party
consisting of Messrs. Burridge, William (of Honolulu) and Webster start for that city
with two pack loads of sketches and photographs, after an exceedingly enjoyable stay
with landlord Lee.
Volcano quiet and ladylike.
Yesterday went down into the crater with Manuel the guide who had been there
once before. Stuck a cane into the lake and singed my whiskerettes. Am told I was the
first tourist to get down to the lake since it has been in its present condition. After
thinking the matter over in a calm and unimpassioned manner I have come to the
conclusion that I was a blanked fool to make the trip. All the people present heartily
concur in the above opinion.
C.A. Webster, 30 Oct 1891
Illustration: Two drawings: 1. "The Madam" Thinking About Another Blowup of Fire;
showing Pele seated and smoking a pipe on the floor of the crater. 2. A Fine View of "the
Crathur"; showing a man eyeing his drink. Page 276.
Found the volcano very much changed since my last visit December '88. The
crater floor has been upheaved and present lake of Halemaumau formed, which affords
now one of the finest spectacles ever witnessed. It is a lake, at least 1000 or 1200 feet
across, in full action, throwing up immense jets of lava from below and thousands of
small jets which appear all over its surface. There seemed to be two openings near the
crater, through which the lava is emitted from below, and through which the lava also
goes down. The wave crests on the smooth shore which surrounds the lake is also a new
feature not before observed by me in any previous eruption. The following sketch
represents the crater as seen at night from the hotel.
Dec.1. Lake Halemaumau apparently more active than yesterday.
H.M. Whitney, 16th visit, 30 Nov 1891
Illustration: Small sketch of Halemaumau Lake with red smoke rising. Page 279.
Elevations taken with aneroid:
Volcano House
Lava floor
Halfway House
Little Beggar
Elephant
Northeast edge of Halemaumau crater
0
-480 feet
-420 feet
-310
-320
-260
The distance of the burning lava from the same crater edge was found 280 feet. The total
depth of the boiling lava from the Volcano House results to 540 feet. There is only one
boiling lake at present about 1200 feet wide N.E.-S.W. and a little less opposite to this
direction. The lake has its most activity in the SW part, where two big fountains and
numerous small ones are continually playing. The color of the molten lava is reddish in
daytime and yellowish during the night. Probably the true color is yellow and the change
in daylight may be caused by the blue smoke in the crater hole. Spectroscopical
observations could give an idea about the real color of the boiling lava.
Dr. Adolph Marcuse, Royal Observatory, Berlin, 30 Nov 1891
Started from the new Volcano House yesterday afternoon at 3:30 p.m. to pay a
visit to the burning lake (the goddess Pele) which was reached in 56 minutes from the
time of starting. The burning lake was found to be in violent action, and was a grand sight
to behold. As darkness came on, the color of the burning lava seemed to change from red
to a peculiar shade of yellow, and the dashing of the fiery waves against the beach of
black lava on the sides of the lake seemed to grow fiercer every moment. Our party
consisted of twelve (12) persons all told, including five native Hawaiians, who had come
all the way from Honuapo to visit the crater. While on the crater's brink the natives
performed one of their old customs by making offerings and praying to their goddess. It
was a peculiar sight to behold and the impression it made on the other members of the
party will not soon be forgotten. Our trip back from the burning lake to the Volcano
House was made in one hour and twenty minutes...
Jas. L. McLean, Secretary, I.I.S., N. Ca., 1 Dec 1891
w, only to sink back again into the dark uniformity of level as before. Or a fiery flood
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Selected Entries From
The Volcano House Register, Volume 4
1891-1898
Concerning Eruptive Activity or Changes in Kilauea and Mauna Loa
I arrived here on the 29th Oct. 91, crippled with rheumatism and with a broken
down constitution in order to try if the Sulphur Vapor Baths would be of any benefit to
me. Previous to coming here I had been in the Queen's Hospital Honolulu for about 9
months with inflammatory rheumatism without a cure being effected.
After taking the Sulph. Vapor Baths for for a few weeks I found a great
improvement in every respect which continued and on the 19th inst. I made the trip all
the way on foot to the crater and back without the least bad effect from it, something I
never anticipated I should have been able to accomplish when I came here and which is
the best proof of the benefit that Sulph. Vapor Baths have been to me. Altogether I feel
like a new man. I have taken the Baths as a rule once a day, sometimes, on five days
during the latter part of my stay, twice a day. At first I only remained in the Box about 10
minutes, but kept on increasing it till half an hour and after the Vapor Baths I took a
lukewarm shower. This is my experience in regard to the Sulphur Vapor Baths and I feel
convinced that anyone coming up here with the same affliction will be greatly benefited
by them, besides the fine, cool, bracing air, splendid scenery etc. has a wonderful
renovating effect on the whole constitution in general.
Regarding the great wonder of nature (the crater) I shall not try to describe it, as I
know my pen is inadequate to the task; I have read several clever men's descriptions of it,
but must say, all of them fall short of the reality; it must be seen to form an opinion of its
greatness.
As to the Volcano House itself a more comfortable place one cannot wish for, it is
in every respect equal to any first class hotel, with a luxurious table, a fine new piano and
billiard table etc. etc. and with all the latest improvements, so even in rainy weather one
can pass the time very pleasantly...
R. Wesmann, 29 Oct-22 Dec 1891
...Where is thy seat, oh child of Mauna Loa?
Where are thy castle halls?
Canst thou remember aught of ancient Noah?
Sailed he around thy walls?
Or art thou but the breathing place of Hades,
Where suffering spirits dwell;
Within whose realms hope enters not, nor aid is;
That pit we know as hell?
Are all those bubblings sighs of the departed,
Those surgings throes of pain?
What are those fiery founts to heaven darted,
Appeals for mercy, vain?
Oh! writhing sea, hold fast thy secrets gory,
Thou art but Nature's child
And thou reflectest but the Master's glory
Albeit fierce and wild.
The earthquake and whirlwind, fire and danger
Whate'er the strife may be,
Are only signals, both to friend and stranger,
Of His immensity.
C.C.B., Cleveland, Ohio, 14 Jan 1892
Arrived thoroughly soaked and quite cold. Rain all the way together with rivers of
waters. The most cordial hospitality was shown us by Mr. Lee. The volcano of Kilauea
was so changed that we were very much disappointed.
R.K. Baptist, M. Sousa, A.V. Soares, 19-27 Jan 1892
The Black Ledge is formed by overflows from the Lake. Mr. Lee states that about
two months ago the surface of the molten lava sank about 150 feet below the level of the
Black Ledge. After remaining at that level for about one month it began rising again, and
is now within 25' of its original level.
The entire surface marked "molten lava" is in a boiling condition, with bursts of
spray, averaging 25', occasionally being thrown to a height of 50'.
About half way up the debris slope on the east side, where the descent is made,
heat comes up a crack.
There is, as yet, no "upward thrust" of the floor of the pit, or of the debris slope.
All of the filling up of the pit has been by overflow from the central lake. With the
exception of the spot above mentioned, there does not appear to be any heat outside of
the floor of the pit.
L.A. Thurston, 12 Feb 1892
Illustration: Cross section of Halemaumau, 12 Feb 1892, L.A. Thurston, includes Molten
Lake, Black Ledge, depths and distances. Page 9.
Goddess Pele, golden hued
Rainbow tinted, fiery, rude
Raging fiercely night and day
Mighty Goddess hear me pray
Goddess most divinely right
Sovereign Lady of the night
Mistress of the realms of fire
Let me not incur thine ire...
Mrs. E.H.K., Del., no date
Henry C. Lyon and wife, Boston, Mass. beg leave to record their delight in
finding this new Volcano House, so beautifully equipped, and so ably conducted by Mr.
Peter Lee and his excellent wife. Now give us a completed road through to Hilo and the
World and his wife will come here to see the marvels of this realm over which Her
Calorific Majesty, Madam Pele, presides. The writer is here for the 5th time since
Christmas 1888, and every visit has revealed marked changes in the condition of Kilauea:
but the transformations that have been effected since my last visit in February 1891 are
most marked.
H.C.L., Conductor of Raymond & Whitcomb Tours, 17 Feb 1892
In this vast solitude, in mute accord
With the strange peace that calms our restless ways,
Behold the mighty censer of the Lord
Eternal incense lifting to His praise.
Sophie E. Eastman, South Hadley, Mass., 22 Feb 1892
Apr. 5 went down into the crater to the edge of burning lake with Messrs. Bliss
and Eliot.
Fred Page Tibbits, Milwaukee, 5 April 1892
Notes on present state of Kilauea, and changes since the writer's last visit in July,
1889, in company with Prof. J.D. Dana.
In 1887, an area somewhat larger than that of the smooth black floor in the sketch
on the opposite page, was occupied by an irregular mound of debris, which had been
pushed up by the hydrostatic lifting of the lava column below. (see Dana's Volc. pp. 106,
110) Around portions of the base of this mound was a narrow surface of comparatively
smooth lava about 150 ft. below the upper floor around Halemaumau. In this floor,
between the mound and the narrow pile of talus on the west side, lay "Dana Lake" so
named by our party, small, but in quite active ebullition. Another lake lay immediately
south, apparently smaller, but impossible to properly inspect on account of smoke.
Another small lake could be seen on the S.E. side of the mound by its spraying fountains,
in the thick smoke.
In the collapse of March 5, 1891, the whole of the above features disappeared,
leaving a pit 700 feet deep. The lava soon reappeared, having left its cumbersome and
unsightly mound somewhere down below in the realms of Pluto (or Pele). For one year it
had been gradually but intermittently rising, in extremely regular and normal form.
The degree of activity in ebullition seems about as great as the combined activity
of all the active points in '87. The distribution of activity differs as follows: in Dana Lake,
the lava issued upwards very quietly from under the central mound. It flowed in currents
fanning divergently towards various points under the walls of the lake. Down at those
points it descended, carrying with it large sections of crust. This submergence was
attended by violent explosive regurgitations at the points of disappearance.
In the present lake, the edges are for the most part quiet. A strong current starts a
little east of the center, flowing westward. Just west of the starting point is a powerful
ebullition (described below). The crust of the lake is broken by long irregular lines of
fracture, glowing red, which begin parallel with the outer bank, and slowly move towards
the center, becoming crinkled and zigzag like bolts of forked lightning, and interlacing
with each other. Near the center their motion is hastened, and they disappear in the vivid
and jetting melee of the central area. On the main floor of Kilauea, extensive overflows
have occurred. Some of these seem to have availed themselves of the then empty duct of
"Little Beggar" emerging partly out of the "Elephant." A chief line of overflows seems to
have been north of "New Lake" which has been filled up and totally obliterated. In '97 its
deep bottom ducts were in view, much filled with debris, and the Floating Island lay
stranded near the bottom. (see Dana's Volc. p. 100)
By the removal of the central mound, the slightly cone form of Halemaumau has
become more distinct. Dr. Marcuse's (aneroid) figures indicate something like 40 feet
elevation since F.S. Dodge's trigonometrical measurements in '86.
For the fifth day since leaving Hilo, the weather has been perfect. Life at this
altitude seems full of a charm unknown 4000 feet below at sea level.
Mr. Lee states that Mr. Thurston's estimate of the diameter of the Lake (see page
9) [Feb 12 1892 entry] as 1300', was the result of a careful pacing around the lake by
several persons together, an average result being adopted. An accurate measurement with
theodolite is desirable.
Several hours have been spent in estimates of dimensions of Halemaumau, by
means of improvised instruments, employing as bases the dimensions indicated in F.S.
Dodge's accurate map (Dana, p. 160). Six points of observation were occupied on the
periphery of Halem. The results as given below seem to be substantially correct, although
given with diffidence, on account of imperfection of means employed.
Diameter of Crater
2400 feet
Depth to black floor (average)
300
Diameter of fire lake (average)
920 feet
Height of bank
40 feet
The lake had subsided about ten feet from the 8th to the 13th. The line of the earlier level
was distinctly visible.
As compared with L.A. Thurston's figures (p. 9) the lake is smaller (920:1300)
and the precipice higher (300:250)
The activity of the lake had slightly increased. (a) and (b) (see sketch last page)
were seen united for half an hour in a furious surging covering an area of 120' by 40', and
varying from 15 to 25 feet in height. (c) was once seen to rise in a billow or dome 50' in
diam. and 35' high. Falling back, the liquid around it swung heavily up and down in
massive undulations. While this dome was of about the dimensions of the new Hotel, it
looked no larger than a small elephant, such is the illusion produced by looking down
into such a pit.
I determined the fact that the present area of Halemaumau is very nearly circular
being a circle inscribed within the nearly equilateral triangle of '87. (see Ground Plan, p.
17). The fire-lake is also substantially circular.
A careful inspection from all points of the periphery of the crater, makes it plain
that the overflows have been immense over all parts of the rim of Halemaumau during
the Mound-Dana period ('86-'91) and that they have considerably elevated the rim, as Dr.
Marcuse's figures indicate.
The weather continues extremely fine. Mercury at sunrise averages about 57.
[Here he has drawn two sketches; one a plan view, and one a perspective drawing, both
of Halemaumau.]
April 11, 1892. The above sketch is substantially accurate in perspective, giving
the outlines very nearly as would a photograph. Estimating the diameter of the great pit of
Halemaumau at 2600 feet, it seems difficult to assign to the fire lake a diameter of more
than 900 feet at the outside. The estimate of 30 ft. height of the bank of the lake seems
correct, and that of 250 feet from the black ledge to the top of Halemaumau must also be
correct. The present lake has at least twelve times the area of the late "Dana Lake" and
three times that of the former "New Lake," with its floating island. This lake is very
nearly circular.
Seven centers of ebullition are indicated in the sketch, not more than five of
which were seen simultaneously active. The largest one near the center is constantly
active, intermittently boiling up into a dome of 30 ft. diam. by 15 feet high and throwing
spray 40 ft. high. The area of red dots enclosing (b) and the one to the right flamed with
sparkles and small jets, in a strong current flowing to the right.
S.E. Bishop, 11 April 1892
Illustration: Two drawings, 11 April 1892, S.E. Bishop: 1. Small map view of
Halemaumau, showing Present Lake, Dana Lake, New Lake, A Lake. 2. Perspective
drawing, showing molten lake and adjacent features. Page 17.
After a period of 36 years I have the pleasure--in company with my daughter,
wife of Engr. A.F. Dixon, U.S.N.--of paying my respects a second time to Madam Pele &
her surroundings, which I find greatly changed in appearance from that presented in
1856. We found the old Lady at home, but whether from age or apathy, her pyrotechnic
display last evening--altho grand and beautiful beyond description or conception, bears
little comparison to the astounding display made upon my first visit.
Her front yard thro which we walked with commendable speed over a wellmarked trail, and in nearly a direct line for an hour and 16 minutes, to reach her drawing
room, is about as unlike what it was on my first visit, except in color, as an open prairie is
like the Atlantic Ocean in a storm. Then, the "floor" of the crater must have been several
hundred feet lower than at present, with a generally smooth and level surface--the
western side lower than the eastern (the opposite of its present) with less than one crack
to a thousand--aye many thousands at present, and in nearly every crack the sides were
the color iron at welding heat, at from 1 to 4 ft. below surface. There was a number of
cones, chimneys and blow-holes from most of which steam, gas, & jets of liquid lava
were being thrown, the latter to lodge and cool upon surrounding walls--Cones some 4 to
8 ft. & one 12 or 14 feet in height--some quite perfect, others with one side or top open.
Nearly the whole surface of the crater floor where I walked was so hot that with tolerably
thick soled boots one preferred moving to standing and the end of a green stick inserted
from 1 to 3 ft. in any of the cracks and immediately withdrawn, would come out ablaze at
its end. There was at that time a large and long ridge of large and small rocks apparently
of ancient date, to be crossed on our way to the Lake, which ridge has entirely
disappeared. The surface of the Lake was then nearly on a level with the surrounding
"floor" (as it is called) and quite as large as the present area of cooled and molten lava
within the present pit; and the whole contents of the vast cauldron in most intense,
wonderful, and furious and unceasing agitation. It was surrounded by a rim or wall-broad at its base but narrow at top, some 30 to 40 ft. above crater floor on its eastern side
and 40 to 60 ft. on the opposite side. To get a view of the Lake one had to climb or crawl
up its windward side, and then could face it but a few moments at a time, on account of
the scorching heat evolved by the heaving, surging, rolling, seething and spitting and
spouting of lava in a hundred different directions at the same time, and tossing it masses
from a thousand tons to the minutest particles, & in height from that of a rolling wave, to
50 or 100 ft.--the smaller particles caught by the strong draft created by the energetic
working of Madam's machinery below, were drawn out, carried, and lodged on the
western rim or bank in great quantity as "Pele's Hair"--an article now very difficult to
obtain. I find in the accommodations, the conveniences and comforts now abundant near
Madam's domain as great a change as in her Halls.--instead of the little City (as it would
be called in western U.S.A.) now here, with its elegant, roomy, well furnished Hotel and
Stables, its well stocked larder, its most amiable, obliging & competent Landlord, Lady,
and trained servants, ample means for securing an abundant supply of the best of water
for man and beast--fresh meat, milk, eggs, butter, and poultry--hot, cold and steam
sulphur baths, furnished by Madam P. herself, there was not an ounce of either meat or
drink to be had--not an inhabitant or inhabited dwelling within miles of the Crater, and
the only shelter for the weary Pilgrim, however weary, wet, cold & hungry he arrived,
there was literally nothing to recuperate the physical man, unless brot with him, and
nothing to shelter his aching bones except a straw-covered shed with open front & end,
on the brink of the Crater.
Our route here was by I.I.S.N. Co's steamer "Hall" with good bed & board, a very
careful & accommodating Captain, a very smooth and pleasant trip, stopping at 8 way
ports on Hawaii & 3 on Maui, and landing at Punaluu 35 hours from Honolulu. Found at
P a new Hotel, clean & inviting bed & table, a Landlord alive to the interests & comfort
of his guests, etc.
A ride by Rail of some 5 or 6 miles over the most crooked R. Road ever seen brot
us to the Pahala Mill where we took stage for the Volcano House.
Of this road from the "Mill" to the 1/2 way House, 11 miles, I will only say I have
traversed worse, & many much better; of the remaining 13 miles I must say, the man who
had the courage, the enterprise, the perseverance & faith to mark out, lay out, and build at
his own expense, & for public use, so good a road of so poor material & thro such a
terribly rough, rugged, desolate & God-forsaken country, is deserving of a pension in this
life and my Daughter says "a free pass from St. Peter."
Arrived at 3:30 p.m. Sunday 24th, 52 hours from Honolulu, fine weather the
entire trip--delighted with the bracing temperature & very unusual scenery of this place,
where we have had every attention one could wish.
My Daughter left an invalid's bed & Physicians care to which she had been
confined some two weeks--was seasick all the time on board, yet walked from the foot of
the descent to the Lake last evening, and felt none the worse for the walk. Our visit to the
Lake last eve, was marked with less fatigue than anticipated, our return by lantern light
more _________ than the outward trip, & made doubly interesting by the sociability of
our Host Mr. Lee. We hope to leave tomorrow morning for Hilo, and to embark Monday
next on "Kinau" for Honolulu & way ports, tho we leave this Hotel and its Proprietor
with regret.
J.H. Wood, 75 1/2 yrs. old, 28 April 1892
Intend leaving tomorrow Saturday for Honolulu via Hilo after having spent a very
beneficial and happy visit at the Volcano House. I visited the Crater several times, and
enjoyed the many very pleasant walks, around this weird neighborhood...
T.M. Stanley, 20 May 1892
All the way from Portland, Oregon,
To see the Kilauea Crater,
It was well worth the trip,
As I have never seen anything greater.
Hugo B. Goldsmith, Portland, Ore., 28 May 1892
A traveller seeing Smoky Pit by night,
With thousand stacks that belched forth smoke and flame
"Tis hell with lid off"--aptly did he write-Methinks no fitter semblance could he name.
So viewing Kilauea's lake I meet
No words that better speak my inmost thought,
Except, 'tis hell with lid on, but the heat
Has cracked the lid that covers o'er the pot.
Wm. G. Johnston, Pittsburgh, Pa., 16 June 1892
Sure cure for sun burn is to bathe your face in boiling hot water. The journey may
be rough but it will well repay one to take it. If temptation should assail one through the
path of life, the memory of Halemaumau will be a sure preventative against it. What an
awful place the infernal region must be! We do not care to participate in its beauties.
Annie A. Kelly, 22 June 1892
Condition of lava pit during week ending July 11. The lava has been very near the
point of overflow--sometimes three feet below it. Almost daily overflows have taken
place. The "black ledge" is being thus built up at the rate of several inches per week.
Fountains form in the south corner of the crater apparently over a fissure northwest to
southeast in trend. Lava spurts often under southwest and west wall of the fire pit, where
an embankment has formed 15 to 25 ft high, extending also to the south corner. There is
no uniform set of the lava currents. They often seem to start from the crater, perhaps
more frequently set to the west than in any other direction.
The circumference of the pit, at a distance of 50 ft. from the rim is just 1 1/2
miles, so that the pit at the top is about 2400 ft. in diameter. At base of cliff it is about
1900 ft. Lava lake 900 to 950 ft. in diameter. Black ledge 300 to 500 ft. wide. Height of
cliffs about 250 ft, in highest part not far from 300 ft. Level of lava in lake must be 35
feet or more above base of cliffs.
A.B. Lyons, 13 July 1892
One of the universal beliefs of Scientists & Mineralogists in reference to the
resources of this wonderful region has this day been overthrown, namely that no gold,
iron or precious stones can be found therein and as a matter of vital importance to those
who may hereafter visit the vast lava fields surrounding the volcano the following fact
duly accredited by Professor Lyons, Thos. May and many other visitors is recorded. A
Lady (American) was on the lava at 6:30 a.m. this morning when she saw a white crystal
gleaming in starlike contrast to the black lava. She hastened to pick it up and on returning
to the House she submitted it to the inspection of the visitors who one and all described it
to be a diamond. It weighed 4 carats and its value was variously estimated at from $500
to 1000.00 dollars. The fortunate finder intends to have it set as a finger ring and any
person feeling interested in seeing it will have an opportunity of doing so by calling the
office of the well known Prnithorynchus, EveryBody's Friend, Fort Street, Honolulu.
no signature, 12 July 1892
Visited the crater 9, 11, 12, 13, 16, 17, 19, 20, 21. Prof. Lyons' description (p. 32)
[13 July 1892 entry] very accurate. Crater continues to fill up. Considerable overflows in
early morning of 20th, and night of 21st. Keanakakoi 150 ft. deep; Kilauea Iki 600-650 ft.
Graham Balfour, New University Club, London, 7-23 July, 1892
I visited Kilauea in 1868 but the lake is so different now that I make this brief
record. Then, as I remember, the lake was hardly more than one third the size of the
present lake, and was very quiet, save in the cones some six or eight in number. Now the
whole center of the lake is active and brilliant, though not throwing any jets especially
noticeable from the brink of the pit. The pit itself was then about as deep as now,
probably 150-200 ft. deep. In '68 no fire was seen from the brink during our visit, we
could only see the boiling lava by descending into the pit and running up on a cone. Now
the view from the brink is sufficiently lurid.
Elizabeth V.C. Hall, 22 July 1892
...As to the Volcano the scientists and poets have already sung its praises. To me
it is a marvelous sight altho it was not as active as it has been in the past. The trip into the
Great Lake Halemaumau under Mr. Lee's guidance is something never to be forgotten.
Altogether this is--I may say--quite the most delightful part of my visit to the Island.
Virginia Calhoun, Mercury Representative, San Jose, Calif., 23 July 1892
Visited the crater and made hot mud pies on the edge of the lake and studded
them with silver. Ate sandwiches on the brink of the cliffs and drank to the health of
Madame Pele.
A.W.C., 29 July 1892
Illustrations:
Sketch of Halemaumau, showing raised rim, 10 Aug 1892, Douglas Campbell. Page 38.
Map of Halemaumau, 25 Aug 1892, F.S. Dodge; 500 feet: 1 inch, with many depths,
diameters, and distances given. Page 40.
On our way back to Hilo from Circuit Court at Waiohinu. Left Dolliway's at 5:45
this morn.
D.H. Hitchcock, 12 Sept 1892
N.B. Mr. M. Lee, Clerk of Vol House, was not present at our arrival, nor has he
properly attended to his duties, since the 10th inst., thereby occasioning much loss of
time to several parties.
E.G. Hitchcock, Sheriff of Hawaii, F.I. Lyman, 12 Sept 1892
Someone wrote beneath this entry:
P.S. by W. Ebeling
This shows that some people have a great deal of gall and try to run the whole
country.
I believe Mr. Martin Lee did not have the key to the whiskey storeroom so our
Worthy E.G.H. thought he was slighted.
And beneath this:
I think this is a little bit unkind of the Sheriff of Hawaii; as I had been drilling the
cook and Washwoman out in the back-yard for two solid days to receive him properly.
This morning I was after the Brass-Band, and we were just coming through the woods
playing Yankee Doodle when the Sheriff had left. Provoking, ain't it?
J.M. Lee, 12 Sept 1892
Today visited the crater, going to the molten lava (ascending the rim). Two large
flows were pouring over the rim, and several smaller ones. The last time prior to today I
saw the lake was 14 Sept. 1891 (more than a year ago). The lake is much higher up than a
year ago (the pit has filled). I one year ago guessed that the pit would be filled up in a
year but the guess has not been fulfilled. Another year at least will be required to fill it (at
present rate of progress). Allowing that there is no drop down as there was March 6th
1886 and again in 1891, we may be reasonably sure that the lake will, for quite a good
while to come, display liquid fire to those who go into the crater to see it. Judging the
future by the past, the surface of the lake will be slowly lifted higher and higher until it
reaches the level (or even more than the level) of the present brink whence visitors now
look down into the fiery reservoir below. It is a pleasure to all that the present Volcano
House is so finely arranged, appointed & kept.
Edwd. P. Baker, 28 Sept 1892
Tonight made my 5th visit to the crater. My last visit was two years ago, and the
general aspect of the Pit has changed in that time beyond recognition to me.
The activity of the crater was less in a general way, than when I was last here; but
so different that I enjoyed, and was much interested in what I saw. Leave tomorrow for
Hilo, bound home to Honolulu.
A.F. Bishop, 3 Oct 1892
Our driver from Hilo was afraid of the horses running away & put on the brake
coming up hill! No rain at all, which is unusual. We visited Madam Pele who kindly did
her best for us with an overflow besides the fountains.
Kilauea Iki and the sulphur banks were visited also. This is my 4th visit to the
volcano and there are many changes in the bed of the crater. In the house, the changes are
too numerous to mention and are fully appreciated by those who have been here before.
Many thanks to Mr. & Mrs. Lee & their brother for their kindness to us.
Tomorrow we try the new road from the "Cowpen"--if we have bad luck, woe be
unto the unhappy mortal who wanted us to be "Pioneers!"
Helen G. Alexander, Makawao, Maui, 5 Oct 1892
Fell in with the worst thunderstorm seen here for some time but my ardour was
not damped neither was Mrs. Pele's as she was in grand form.
A.W. Walker, England, 29 Oct 1892
The crater of Mokuaweoweo again active, after a quiet rest of pretty near 6 years,
since February 1887. The fire appeared last night between 10 and 11 o'clock, quietly
rising from the summit of Mauna Loa without any earthquakes or previous signs of
disturbance, and continued all night. This morning great columns of smoke are belching
forth.
The crater of Kilauea continues in its usual activity not seeming in the least
affected by the eruption on Mauna Loa.
Peter Lee, manager Volcano House, 1 Dec 1892
It says Peter Lee but it looks like J.M. Lee's writing. Below, he added:
The fire only lasted 3 days.
We wish our week were three. Weather delightful, rides the same, first party on
horses clear across the crater to the corral on the new trail. Come all and do likewise. The
lake has been very active.
Harriet F. Coan, 26 Dec 1892
Three weeks at the Volcano House, Christmas and New Year's day amidst the
wonders of Kilauea, is not a common occurrence even for a globe-trotter. Vesuvius, Etna,
the volcanoes of Java were full of attractions, Kilauea completed my investigation of the
molten regions of the earth. After visiting the lower pit, seeing the furnace which lifts up
the lava slowly from day to day, standing on the rim of the seething cauldron, witnessing
its upheavals, its breathings, its cool madness, its sudden flows, I realize more than ever
how great are God's works, how ignorant man is yet.
While here I have read Dana's and Green's excellent works, have copied many of
the maps which are found in these registers. Their value is inestimable.
Being an old man, I could not have reached the "lake" without the help of Captain
Lee who, with his brother Mr. Martin Lee, accompanied and helped me. For three weeks
they have been constant in their attentions and to them I owe much of the pleasure
derived from such a long stay...away from the haunts of men, with roads yet unfinished,
such good quarters are remarkable...
Prof. Elie Charlier, New York City, 12 Dec 1892-3 Jan 1893
Twenty seven years of wit and wisdom (some of the former is rather alleged than
real) as recorded in the registers of the Volcano House, won't have one half as convincing
an effect as the actual sight of Halemaumau when fairly active. Our party were blest with
delightful weather, a good display of fireworks, and beautiful appetites...
R.E. Carney, U.S.N., U.S.S. Boston, 6 Jan 1893
If all the wit that here is writ
Were lava, seems to me a
Tenth of it would fill the pit
Of yawning Kilauea.
A. Stalker, Ames, Iowa, 7 Jan 1893
"Blessed are they that expect little for they shall not be disappointed." I do not
mean that I expected nothing from the volcano--on the contrary I believed it would prove
the most wonderful work of Nature I had ever seen--and this it really is--Vesuvius, Etna,
Stromboli, the volcanoes of New Zealand, Java and Japan I have seen and not one of
them equals this scene of ever changing interest. It is only those whose imagination has
been fired by reading such high falutin language as Miss Bird (Six Months in the
Sandwich Islands) indulges in--who are apt to have pictured to themselves a scene which
except in Miss Bird's mind or in those paid to write up the subject could alone exist-would be disappointed with the reality...
Charles G. Nottage, London, England, 24 Jan 1893
Why everyone should attempt to write on so sublime a work of nature whether
they have a gift that way or not is to me a puzzle. As I could not do it justice I will merely
say that to me it was the most awe inspiring sight I have ever witnessed--the recollection
of it is more deeply impressed on my mind than the shoes I wore were scored by the
heated lava over which I walked. The thoughtfulness of Mr. & Mrs. Peter Lee made
everything easy, homely, & comfortable & I shall always remember them as some of the
nicest people I have met in my journey round the world.
Cicely Adamson, London, 24 Jan 1893
That fools rush in where angels fear to tread is well known and is nowhere more
obvious than at Kilauea. Tourists prove it by their actions at the crater and then writing in
the Guest books. Roughly speaking there have been about four men born into this world
who could have described Kilauea, I mean Virgil, Dante, Milton & Goethe. That the
ordinary traveller cannot is abundantly shown by results above and in the other volumes.
It would however be ungracious to leave Volcano House without recording
grateful thanks...
B_______ Dickson, London, 24 Jan 1893
Illustration: Blue tinted photograph of Halemaumau, 9 Jan 1893, showing raised molten
lava lake, with Black Ledge labelled. Page 60.
Dimensions of Lake same as specified on Page 40 [Dodge's map, 25 Aug 1892]
with exception of Black Ledge, which has risen to ca. 125 ft. from Top of Cliffs; and wall
surrounding the Lake some places 15 ft. high. Overflows from the Lake are very
frequent, sometimes coming down in streams 50 ft. wide. Most of the Black Ledge is
extremely hot to walk on. Red hot lava visible through cracks only a few inches below
surface. The aspect of the Black Ledge is changing constantly; where it one day was a
smooth flat surface, next day will be found a big hill 30 ft. high and 100 ft. long, as this
hill cools off it will crack on top to the extent of 2-3 ft. wide with a tremendous burst.
Through this crack the hot lava will force its way in big streams till the surroundings for
several hundred feet have been filled up to the level of top of the hill. The rising of the
Black Ledge is due more to this action than to overflows from the Lake.
On Jan. 26th the Lake was unusually active and bursted the wall in a dozen
different places leaving big gaps almost level with the Black Ledge. The molten lava
consequently running out like rapid streams of water. It kept on flowing the whole night
and part of next day, and the level of the Lake was reduced 25 ft. The height of the cliffs
is now ca. 100 ft.
no signature, 1 Feb 1893
The above entry may have been written by F.S. Dodge, Peter Lee, or, most likely, J.M.
Lee.
I have seen many of the wonders of Nature in both Europe and America...and now
I have seen, and gazed with awe upon the great furnace fires of the Almighty--with awe
unspeakable, and tremble as I gaze--Kilauea--indeed thou art one of Nature's greatest
wonders. Never shall I forget the seething caldron of fire upon which I have gazed
tonight.
H.B. Hitchings, New York, 3 Feb 1893
It was out of sight, at least so we found it last evening.
Geo. Rice, Salt Lake, 21 Feb 1893
We arrived; as noted above by my friend Higgins on the evening of 27th Feby.
Visited the volcano the following day, and yesterday evening in carriage, had a view
from the edge of the Pali near the flagstaff, overlooking the crater, this view is seldom
taken but I would advise spectators not to miss it. The volcano has not been very active
during our visit.
A.M. Stewart, St. Louis, 1 March 1893
There were six flows from the crater's lake last night and the lava flowed to the
bank directly underneath the spot where we stood. Five of us witnessed the sight for three
hours.
C.H. Wetmore, 18 March 1893
This afternoon several of us visited the caves which are located opposite the
shelter house that overlooks the lake. Mr. Lee who took us to this interesting place said
that it had not yet been named and suggested that we christen it. The place was therefore
named after Miss Adeline E. Knapp, the first woman reporter to visit it and as she is
known by all those well acquainted with her as "Delle" the caves will hereafter bear this
name and be known as "The Delle."
no signature, 18 March 1893
...My first trip here was in December, 1888. Every subsequent visit has shown me
marked changes in the crater of Kilauea; but what is as well worth recording is the fact
that each year has witnessed decided improvements in the Volcano House and the
facilities for getting here. This trip has been by far the most satisfactory of any. We drove
on the new volcano Road 21 1/2 miles from Hilo, leaving only 9 1/2 miles of horseback
riding. And now Mine Host Lee astonishes us with the statement that tomorrow we will
ride to the Lake of Fire on horses...
Henry C. Lyon, Boston, Mass., 31 March 1893
Went to the crater on horseback with Mr. Lee making my first trip in all the visits
I have made here. The lake was ________ there was a flow of liquid lava flowing like a
river to the right from the observation house. It was a fine sight for daylight.
P.C. Jones, 5 April 1893
From one to seven fountains active; playing about 25 feet of jet. Change
continually. Greatest activity on S. and W. Map on p. 40 is most excellent. No cones
forming. Crust seems to be hardening.
Henry C. Carter, New York, 21 April 1893
After visiting both Vesuvius and Kilauea I must express my self very much in
favor of Kilauea as being far superior to Vesuvius in regards to magnificence and
beautiful fountain displays of fire works Vesuvius only showing a blaze of fire from one
point and black smoke. I think Kilauea the most wonderful of all sights I have ever
witnessed. It was quite active when I visited it during my stay here showing some eight to
ten fountains at one time.
M.A. Dudley, Portland, Oregon, 30 April 1893
...We are more than pleased with our visit to the volcano. Especially the crater
which has to be seen to be appreciated, words cannot express the grandeur of the scene.
Frank J. Macdonald, San Francisco, 10 May 1893
Great changes have taken place here since my first visits to the volcano in January
1873. At that time, and I believe for a number of years later, there were two lakes,
connected by a strait; and to reach the border of the first or nearest, we ascended a hill
rising from the great lava plain; on reaching the top of this hill we stood on the brink of
the first lake, the surface of which was I should think 50 feet below us. Now, in 1893,
there is but one lake, the longest diameter of which seems to be in a direction opposite to
that of the former two lakes. This single lake we had to reach by a steep and ugly descent
from the border of the great lava plain, of about 50 feet, to a lower plane of small extent,
crossing which we made a brief ascent to a very ragged border on bank from which we
looked down on the fiery lake. Thus in 20 years the whole aspect of the living crater and
its relation to the larger crater has greatly changed. It is still, to my mind, the greatest and
most fascinating sight in the world. The display of fountains and whole action of the fiery
lake were, it seemed to me less wild than when I saw it 20 years ago, but I was fortunate
then to be here at a time of unusual activity. I would now like extremely to remain here
some weeks to watch the ever changing moods of Madame Pele. I saw the lake this time
on two nights and three days, and spent in fact most of my time there; and watched the
change from absolute quiet to violent ebullition sometimes in four or five different parts
of the lake, the fiery fountains flinging or spurting sometimes, as our party judges to the
height of 40 or 50 feet; and it was noticed that the smaller fragments which were thrown
highest lost their bright color and evidently a good deal of their heat before they reached
the surface of the lake again.
The changes here at the Volcano House, in 20 years, are as great and surprising as
those in the crater itself. On my first visit, in 1873, we found here a very small house and
very poor accommodation, though a very willing and obliging man in charge. We were
obliged to climb and scramble down by a very poor path, to the lava plain and across it
there was no trail at all, but we followed our guide, climbing over lava hills and blocks.
Now we found here a commodious and admirably kept hotel, with excellent
service and as good food as one gets in Honolulu--better one of our party says. The
sulphur baths so comforting after the journey are well arranged and fitted; and a broad
and well smoothed trail almost worthy to be called a road, leads down into the great
crater, and over the lava plain, to the lake. In front of the lake a lava house has been built,
which gives shelter for a large party against the cool or sometimes cold wind, and enables
one to watch the fiery display conveniently. One now goes down on horseback--with
safety to the poorest riders, and the horses kept here are gentle and sure-footed. I find it is
now usual for visitors to go down to the lake in the evening, the display being of course
most brilliant and effective at night, but I advise all who come here to go down also by
day, so as to examine also the great lava plain, as well as the fiery lake. The charges at
the Volcano House are so moderate, for horses and guides that the visitor may spend
much of his time in the crater, and see it also by a drive or ride about its upper walls. The
air is fresh and delightful at this height, and the climate excellent.
I suggest to visitors to spend a night, I mean a whole night, in the crater house;
which can be done without discomfort, even by ladies, if they will secure a mattress and
blankets to be brought there from the Volcano House, with a lunch for the middle of the
night. The evening one spends there is too short; and every one of our party wished to
spend a whole night in front of the lake.
I have found the Volcano House registers extremely interesting; they contain
descriptions from good observers, of the appearance of the volcano for more than 20
years; accompanied in a number of cases with diagrams of the lake and its surroundings,
which have been made by surveyors or persons skilled in sketching, and show in a most
interesting way the changes which have taken place from time to time, within this period.
I hope these valuable registers will be carefully preserved.
To watch, by the hour or day the changes in the behavior of the fiery lake, is the
most fascinating spectacle I know of, in the world. To be able to do this and return when
tired, to an excellent meal or comfortable room and bed is certainly as pleasant as it was
unexpected by me.
Charles Nordhoff, 14 May 1893
Mt. Hood is not in it alongside of Kilauea.
Ed Dekum, 14 May 1893
Wonder of wonders! "Madame Pele," I take off my hat and salute you.
Herbert S. Conner, Washington, 23 May 1893
Not a Fake. For some months it has been my earnest desire to visit the volcano
but I was always unfortunate enough to meet people who had visited it, and who when
questioned would reply "it is grand" or words to that effect. Their laconic description of
the crater made me grow a trifle "leary" as the boys say and visions of a fake crossed my
mind when I recalled the man who paid a quarter to see a living mermaid. Of course he
was a badly sold man and as he emerged from the tent he was questioned by a large
crowd of skeptics who stood outside. He told them that he saw a genuine freak so they
paid their money and rushed in. I thought my informants were trying to play the same
game on me, but now I can happily say that the Goddess Pele is not a fake but on the
contrary I found her to be a very active female. I will not attempt to describe the wonder
because if I did you would not want to see it so I will close by giving a word of advice. If
you want a lead pipe cinch on a resident of Hilo just tell him that the bay is just lovely
and that the town is out of sight. If you are broke do this and then you will not have to
walk home.
Charles Rockinghorse, By F.L.H., no date
Visited the crater the evening of June 1st and afternoon and evening of next day.
All the sentiments and words of praise and admiration thus far written in this book, are
but a faint echo of the profound impression a studious view of the volcano forces upon
the observer. To the casual on-looker, even to the unthinking one, must come a sense of
the awful sublimity of these volcanic wonders; and it is fitting here to remark that I have
taken the utmost, the highest degrees in the order of the unthinkers.
S.A. Raphael, San Francisco, Cal., 2 June 1893
Visited the crater--very active--wonderful fountains of fire--not on so stupendous
a scale as when I first saw it March 3, 1886, but it is Grand--Lovely--God's Fires.
(I sympathize with Capt. Lee and his children in the loss they have just met with
in the death of Mrs. Lee. I remember her with kind interest in guests, on their way to this
place.)
W.W. Warner, Warner, Illinois, 12 June 1893
Went down to the lake, for the first time since last Sept. The chasm has
immensely filled up within the last 9 months. Last Sept. the lake was 240 feet or
thereabout below the brink, but it is now estimated as being not more than 100 feet
below. There are indications that the embankment around the lake will grow higher and
become a sorts of hollow cone up which persons will have to climb and look over the
edge to see the lake. Flows will be running in the floor of Halemaumau chasm--this in the
immediate future; while in the more remote future, there will be flows as of old on the
floor of Kilauea; unless if there comes another breakdown as there did in 1886 and 1891-volcanic force going on to operate as it has done, molten lava will be accessible in
Kilauea for years to come.
P.S. The improvements at the Volcano House are very fine, and a large travel will
be looked for next year.
Edwd. P. Baker, 20 June 1893
At 4 p.m. yesterday rode to the cliffs overlooking the crater of Halemaumau and
looked down upon the Lake of Fire, standing upon lumps of lava under which through the
crevices we could see the red glow of fire. Soon the lake arose up like the billows of the
ocean, bursting out in flame and throwing up fountains of fire twenty feet. The flow of
red hot lava would turn over and over as it glided along like a fiery serpent. The thin
black crust for several feet would rise upward and was soon engulfed into the molten
mass. The centre of the Lake by volcanic actions was much higher than the edge of the
basin at our feet. Like a tidal wave the mass continued to move toward us, large blisters
would rise on the surface which would break by the fire bursting beneath them of by
action of the air which they contained. On, on surged this vast lake of molten fire, flames
bursting upward throwing large pieces of lava in the air, the fiery fountains like tongues
of liquid fire leaping in devilish glee. Just over the ledge, near where we stood one of
these fiery fountains commenced to play, roaring, buzzing, hissing like supernatural
demons. We were so near, we threw lumps of lava into the burning mass, as though to
dare it to burst forth more gigantic. Our guide Alec reached down with his staff and
brought up some of the burning lava, dexterously twisting it around his stick to the size in
which a coin is placed as souvenir of the Goddess Pele. We watched the different
fountains of fire, at times some forty in number, until the shades of night came upon us,
when we reluctantly left the inspiring, fascinating scene. We retraced our steps over the
lava to the house of observation on the edge of the extinct crater from where we have an
unobstructed view of the entire basin and lake of fire. As the darkness grew more
profound the scene became more enchanting. The whole lake was a mass of fire, the
sides, centre and all its entirety was bright with the red flames belching upward. Some of
the fountains played upon the very walls of the basin as though to burst through the
prison and force a passage to the lava beds below. The crevices in the lake were marked
by red hot lava forming a thousand suggestions, ever changing. We could picture the
illumination of a city, not unlike Venice. We could see St. Mark's place, the houses
fronting the Grand Canal all a blaze of fire. Then again as the fire grew fainter, we could
imagine we were looking upon the smouldering ruins of a city devastated by fire, without
one single building remaining. The changes were continuous, like the shifting scenes of
some fairy transformation but what brush of the artist and where the tints, that could even
bear the faintest semblance to the grand, weird, impressive scene before us. For a time the
fire would die away, then burst forth again with devilish malignity as though eager to
embrace within its folds the entire world.
W.E.C. Harrison, Correspondent of "The Baltimorean," 18-23 June 1893
After riding for eight long hours we reached our destination. The horses were in
fine condition and considering their size, are little wonders. We then visited the Lake of
Fire which makes one's blood boil with surprise and emotion. We walked across the lava
flow close enough to the molten mass that
we could touch it with a stick.
V.J. Capron, M.D., 2 July 1893
Two years has produced a great change in Halema'uma'u. The deep conical pit of
June 1891 has become a comparatively shallow depression. It was 500 ft. deep, it is, to
the bed, or "ledge" about the lake, say 100 to 125 feet. The lake named "Thurston Lake"
is nearly circular and has built up for itself a wall about 30 ft. high. An even slope gives it
the appearance of a cone. It fills to the brim, slops over, or breaks through and flows, first
one side then another. In two weeks the general floor has risen, apparently by overflows,
perhaps in part by uplifting, about ten feet (says the guide). Meantime the lake fills and
rises maintaining its superior level. It filled and overflowed Sunday the 9th, falling about
15 feet. Since then it filled and fell again, during overflow, then the vent stopped and it
refilled and broke out again July 18th. The activity was varied. Prior to the 9th a dozen
fountains played almost continuously; around the side, chiefly western and southern, like
surf on a rocky shore, and fountains in the central parts. One the heaviest, I judge, is over
the spot or pit noticed May '91 and this fountain appears to bring up new lava in volume,
pouring like an artesian well. On 17th and 18th lake very quiet but filling rapidly. Every
outburst of fountain or surf-like swelling is accompanied by volumes of sulphurous
vapor. As it rises from the surface it is red hot, almost at once turning blue. It is far more
pungent than the vapor from sulphur banks near House. The vents or steam and sulphur
cracks near Halemaumau are very sensibly hotter than 2 years ago.
I was here in March 1869, one year after the great down plunge of 1868. Having
time, I have examined and followed the break or crack which crosses the trail near the
foot of the sand slope (from V.H.) It runs S.E. then separates--one continues directly
towards the Kilaueaiki bluff, where a break in the wall plainly shows its continuance. But
the crack branches and continues more or less obscurely following the line of the 1868
downfall nearly to Halemaumau, and at the points of separation of the lines of crack,
there can be no doubt, on careful examination, that a considerable section of the floor, say
50 to 100 acres has sunken, in places 25 to 40 feet. The mere breaking in of channels of
former flows is easily distinguishable from a down plunge of the general surface. The
place is well worth a visit.
W.R. Castle, 19 July 1893
The lake has filled up about one hundred seventy-five feet since I was here one
year ago and has increased somewhat in activity.
L. Estelle Appleton, Victory, Vt., 27 July-3 Aug 1893
We a party of 10 feel it our pleasant duty before leaving this lonely but beautiful
spot to express ourselves in the same manner that hundreds before us have done. Our
voyage commenced on the afternoon of August 1st at 2 o'clock at which time the S.S.
Kinau cast off her hawser at Honolulu, and headed for Hilo, landing us at that port, after a
remarkable quick, smooth & pleasant trip, Wednesday evening at 10:30 o'clock (32 1/2
hours from Honolulu). Thursday morning at 8 o'clock our party boarded Wilson's bus,
heading for Madame Pele's abode, reaching our destination at 8:30 p.m. which was
considered a long day's ride for the distance of 31 miles, this being accounted for by the
disagreeable weather experienced in covering the last 8 miles, compelling us to walk that
distance it being dangerous for our horses to go faster than a walk. The genial manager of
the hotel was at the front door to receive us with open arms, in half an hours time we
were donned in dry clothes and seated at a cheerful and bountiful table. (The Hawaiian
hotel was not in it.)
The pleasure of visiting the crater that evening was not in store for our party, it
being too stormy a night. The following day (Thursday) at 4:30 p.m. we started for one of
the "Greatest Wonders of this Globe," reaching our destination after a 50 minutes walk
over the new and excellent trail made by Lee himself, for which much credit is deserved.
During our stay of 3 hours, we as a whole were held spellbound at the wonderful and
grand sight. It being useless for us to inscribe our individual description of the sight
witnessed by us all for the first time, we can only join the hundreds that have recorded
their experiences in these "Records," that the visit to this mansion of Madame Pele pays
for itself a 1000 times over, and the half can never be told.
Before coming to a close would drop a line in favor of the "Ohelo,' so delicious
with milk and sugar, better still in a shortcake. All that has been said in reference to the
manager is not exaggerated in the least, he is all that has and can be said, his whole
attention and study, is for his guests.
For the benefit of all that peruse these lines I lay out a diagram of the crater as
witnessed on our first visit.
Harry C. Hadley, Kenneth Sq., Va., 3-6 Aug 1893
The numbers on the diagram and the handwriting below have been added in red ink, not
Harry Hadley's handwriting, maybe Peter Lee's.
Illustration: Sketch of the crater, 4 Aug 1893, showing flows, 8:30 p.m. Page 88.
The caption for the sketch:
1. Large flow, 18 or 20 feet wide, fall 20 or 30 ft
2. Small flow, duration 18 or 20 minutes
3.
"
"
" 18 or 20
"
* Fountain playing 40 or 50 ft. high, continually during our stay in the crater of 3
1/2 hours. Two other fountains near centre of lake, not continuous but spasmodic. Surface
of lake very little disturbed. Crater filled to the brim.
To me
Tis not Hell
But Nature most sublime.
C.A. Warner, Los Angeles, Calif., 6 Nov 1893
After residing on the islands for four years, and now finding myself on the eve of
departure, I determined to pay a visit to Madame Pele and gaze with my own eyes upon
her exquisite beauty and far famed enchanting, bewitching, and awe inspiring powers.
I arrived at the Volcano House on the 16th of Nov. and descended the great crater
on the night of the same day. It was unusually active; there were great fountains of
molten lava, jumping, dancing, hissing, roaring and leaping many feet into the air. The
great splashes and tongues of molten lava resembled fierce beasts that had been caged
and leaping for joy on having again been set free.
However, I see no necessity in attempting a description. All I can possibly say is
what many have said, that it is absolutely indescribable; it is too grand and significant; it
must be seen and, after gazing on that boiling, writhing mass with an august countenance
which is unavoidable, we must all exclaim, it is the great forge, the unquenchable furnace
wherefrom the Almighty fashions His miraculous wonders and mighty marvelous works!
There have been wonders and wonders but none of them have made more impression in
their grandeur than Kilauea. She can indeed be subscribed uppermost on the roll of all
nature's wonders.
George Smith, Buffalo, N.Y., 18 Nov 1893
To see Kilauea is one thing, to describe what you see is quite another. I had my
first view on Thursday evening, Nov. 16th, and the guide said the lake was more active
than he had seen it for 4 months, so I reckon I was pretty lucky. Next day was a hopeless
soaker but yesterday, Saturday, I was by the side of the crater the whole morning and
visited it again in the evening. Neither time was it quite so fine as on Thursday but
without any fountains, or ones or outbreaks of any kind, it appears to me that that
marvellous cauldron of seething molten lava is alone worth travelling more than 8000
miles to see. The comfort of the Volcano House and Mr. Lee's genial character are
already as well known as Kilauea itself, nevertheless I shall do my best to further
disseminate the reports. I think Albert, the guide, deserves many thanks for the excellent
way in which he looks after the troublesome tourist.
Walter C. Peake, Surrey, England, 19 Nov 1893
We hereby certify that we have found the crater in a fine state of activity and that
there is nothing in the performance to offend the most refined and fastidious taste.
Everything in the vicinity is of the most moral character. It is 3 miles to the Lava Lake
and 27 miles back. We regret that limited baggage facilities prevent our taking back to
Honolulu a sample of the active floor.
While under Kilauea's spell
Our lingering thoughts revert to L______.
C.M. White, no date
The following two entries were in German, and were translated by Sue Reed.
On the 13th of November, I reached Mokuaweoweo, the summit crater of Mauna
Loa. Because of the advanced time, we did neither go down into the crater nor on up to
the higher northwest rim. The shape of the crater agreed with the plate on page 180 of the
book by Dana in 1885 on Hawaiian Volcanoes.
The volcanic activity was restricted to 4 fumaroles; a very weak one in the
southern plateau of the plate, a stronger one visible from our location, in the west corner
of the plateau, where the plateau descends to the crater floor. A very weak one hardly
noticeable on the cone in the southwest corner of the crater floor. The fourth one was the
strongest of all, and took place in the location of the plate that was marked "steam
sulphur banks." The second and fourth could be called a fumarole group because the
steam ascended from many holes that were very close to each other. However, even the
fourth and strongest sulphur ______(sublimisende) fumarole was hardly as impressive as
those at the Sulphur Banks at the Volcano House.
Glowing molten rock was nowhere in sight. Our party consisted of my brother, a
friend of his, myself, and a leader, as well as a boy who helped us to set up camp, etc.
None of the five of us suffered the so-called mountain sickness; there was only one
complaint about a headache which could have been caused by insufficient sleep at the
campsite.
The whole journey was done on horseback. The camp altitude we guessed to be
2400 meters. The summit was free of snow and we only found a little ice in some of the
lava cracks. Temperature was comfortable and the winds were calm. From our location
we could see, besides the crater and part of the summit plateau, only Mauna Kea. The
summit plateau obstructs the view of the lower parts of the island, so does the higher
northwest rim also obstruct the view of Haleakala. The trip is rather strenuous and very
expensive; the landscape, in particular the expansive and almost devoid of vegetation
desert of lave, Fladenlava or pahoehoe, in itself as fantastic a sight as the view into the
crater. Something principally different from Kilauea, however, does not exist, and the
whole trip is not recommended, specially for those who don't do it for scientific reasons;
unless it is a time of an eruption.
Dr. Benedict Friedlaender, Berlin, 25 Nov 1893
Illustrations:
Cross section of Halemaumau, 25 Nov 1893, B. Friedlaender; with letters labelling the
rim of Kilauea, the V. House, grass shack, and sunken secondary crater with molten lake
in center. Page 99.
Two cross sections of Halemaumau, B. Friedlaender, comparing the level of the lake on
the 23 and 28 November 1893, in which the lava which formerly was in a depression rose
several meters and built a levee. Page 100.
On the 10, 11, 14, and 23-28 of November observed the Fire Lake. Everything
agreed with the drawing on page 40. In the above schematic diagram K is the crater rim
of Kilauea, V stands for Volcano House, G stands for grass shack, K" is the rim of the
sunken part, best thought of as a secondary crater, in the middle of which is the lava lake
and the leftover of the great sinking of the 6th of March 1891.
The level of the lake wavered within tight limits till 23rd of November, but
always stayed below the rim.
In the night from 23 of November to 24th (note on aside, the 23rd of November
was, according to R. Falb, a so-called "critical day of first magnitude") the level rose
several meters and by the morning of the 24th a levee building could already be clearly
noticed. Almost daily huge overflows, i.e. lava flowing over the rim; on the 28th when I
last saw the lake, the levee and the lake level were almost as high as the grass shack and
the whole looked like the blue picture on page 60. [9 Jan 1893]
Dr. Benedict Friedlaender, Berlin, 29 Nov 1893
I have seen the much talked of Halemaumau and must admit that it exceeded my
most sanguine expectations. No fireworks made by the hands of man, can produce such a
sublime sight as this which is given to us by nature. The sight has amply repaid me for
the trip and my only regret is that thousands are not here to profit by the experience.
Herbert C. Shaw, Cincinnati, 4 Dec 1893
There are lots of nicely written things in the preceding pages and I would like to
write something poetical myself but in the language of my friend "Rocks" of Punaluu
"Not every man was born a poet
Not every sheep was born a goet."
So after wasting this much paper I will close by wishing Mr. Lee's family and all my
fellow guests a Merry Xmas and may they all spend many ones under as pleasant
auspices.
Sir Alex. Lindsay, Jr., President of the Prov. Govt. of Bird Isd., Xmas 1893
The descriptions of the crater of Kilauea, all the rough plans in the Volcano
House books, and the plats and maps drawn to scale by actual measurement agree in this,
that the lake of lava is fixed in one and the same position, that it in the southwest section
of the floor. Ellis "Tour of Hawaii" 1823, the earliest account we have of a visit by such
intelligent observers as Rev. Messrs. Ellis, Thurston, Goodrich, & Bishop confirms this.
The writer is assured by his own frequent observations since his first visit in 1847, that
the most marked change is in the uprising of the whole floor, and that after every
disappearance of molten lava it reappears in the same relative place--there or thereabouts-That Spot is Halemaumau.
When the Hawaiians personified the sublimity, power and mystery of the volcano,
and adopted the ingenious myth of Pele, this was Her Halemaumau, her "abiding city,"
the Home-House, where she resided with her fearful sisters, to which she soon returned if
duty or pleasure called her hence. The legend is as skillfully constructed, and is quite as
consistent and appropriate as the Greek stories of Circe and Charybdis, the Pillars of
Hercules, or Eukeledos confined under Etna. The frequent fervent referenced,
invocations, and prayers to the Guardian Goddess of the place which visitors inscribe in
these books testify to the hold and vitality of Peleism. Nominal Christians adopt it and its
shibboleths.
But aside from all reference to Pele, attributing fixedness to supernatural causes,
what is the matter with the name Halemaumau or why should it be changed? The fixed,
lasting, unchanging, everlasting, ever continuing House.
Yet a school of Iconoclasts has arisen that would give a new name to this object
of our pilgrimage--a title that is neither appropriate, sensible, or attractive. There is no
apparent or convincing reason for Hale ma'u ma'u = Fern House "House thatched with
fern," as there was never a fern, or house of any kind on the main floor near the lake till a
year since, when Manager Lee put one there for the convenience and comfort of his
guests.
The unfounded and indefensible change of designation was attempted about 1888.
Prof. Dana was inveigled into it by S.E. Bishop, J.S. Emerson, and C.M. Hinde. "Remove
not the old Landmarks."
Not an instance in all the books where a Hawaiian has written ma'u.
W. Gerdale, Dec 1893
Following this entry, in pencil, W.D.W. added:
The old legends of the Hawaiians make the fern ledge back of the Volcano House
Halema'uma'u "house of ferns" and call the pit "Ka lua o Pele"--"The pit of Pele."
The entire lake very active, jets of moulten lava play in all directions. The largest
of the overflows is about 30 ft wide as it poured over rim of lake. The smaller overflows
from 3 ft to 10 ft wide.
J.R. Galt, Seattle; Harriet M. Burrows, Brooklyn, N.Y.; Margaret A. Carroll,
Poughkeepsie, N.Y., 7 Jan 1894
Illustration: Rough map view of Kilauea, Halemaumau, and Volcano House; lava
overflowing rim, 8 Jan 1894. Page 107.
The undersigned quartette arrived at the Volcano House 4 p.m. Feb. 3rd 1894
after a delightful drive from Hilo. The three ladies were paying their first visit to Madam
Pele's abode. On the 4th we visited Halemaumau which was full to the brim, flowing over
in places and building the walls higher daily. On the evening of the same day a
magnificent display was witnessed. The bank was broken away in five different places on
the side seen from the hotel from which five fiery torrents flowed and produced cascades
of singular grandeur. These flows ran along the floor of the crater in various directions
producing in the darkness a very striking appearance. One of the flows was about a mile
long. From our beds during the night we looked down on the display with some degree of
reflection and on the morning of the 5th our thoughts took on the following complexion:
How awful is thy home, thou Goddess Pele
Fit emblem of that place where devils dwell
And where the damned chant their oaths in mele
Where Satan reigns supreme--that place called Hell...
Alex. Young, B. Ruth Young, Mary E. Young, Effie Alsip, 5 Feb 1894.
I am profoundly impressed and deeply humiliated by the awful grandeur of
Kilauea as seen from the bluff and near the crater on the night of March 2, 1894 and
again on closer inspection Mch 4 when after three unsuccessful attempts to reach the
edge of the crater the guide refused to again accompany our party until a few of us
determined to go without him, started; after us he came and rendered valuable service in
making the ascent which was done between two large streams of rapidly flowing lava,
scarcely 100 ft. apart where we were afforded a view more grand than all. The day was
perfect with favorable wind. We left the edge of the crater a few moments before noon,
highly satisfied with the views obtained and are pleased with our entertainment.
C.S.M. Laury, Sheldon, Ia., March 1894
It is with regret, not unmixed with joy, that we take our departure from this,
nature's wonderland--regret not only at leaving the "House of Everlasting Fire," but also
the kindness and hospitality of all connected with the Volcano House....We fear, that
when relating to our friends the wonders we have seen in this land of the Halemaumau,
they will think we are drawing a pretty long bow, but our only reply is--Go, and see for
yourselves and then tell us if the half has been told.
To Mr. Peter Lee we would say "May your shadow never grow less" Aloha!! oe!!
Chas. C. Kellogz, Utica, N.Y., 4 March 1894
Illustration: Full-page map of Halemaumau with two cross-sections, 20 March 1894, F.S.
Dodge; 500 feet:1 inch, includes Outline of Pit in Aug 1892 All filled up; cross sections
show how lava rose from depression to fill entire pit and build levee. Page 111.
Mr. Dodge, after completing the survey, and plan on the last page, left on
Wednesday morning the 22nd. That afternoon between half past one and two, Albert the
faithful guide and both of the Lees saw a very remarkable scene. The entire surface of the
lake (Thurston Lake I believe it is called) appeared from the hotel to be in a condition of
intense agitation, spouting and boiling, with lava flowing over the side in several places.
Suddenly on the west side stones, lava and "dust" were thrown high into the air with
spouting columns of fire, and in the space of less than five minutes the north bank of the
lake was tilted up to a height of a hundred feet or more leaving an abrupt wall over the
lake with a steep and broken slope toward the north. It appears to have been lifted by lava
pressing from no great distance below, and a stream has constantly emerged from the
N.E. slope of this hill ever since.
To say nothing of the wonderful change in the Halemaumau region, which has
altered its appearance absolutely in 8 months, my attention was arrested at once, on
arrival, in the great increase in the volume of steam from the crater and from the cracks
about the crater. Watching it carefully three days with little or no rain, I am convinced of
a very great increase. That it does not come from the larger rainfall of this season seems
evident from the fact that there is little if any more steam than last summer all along the
east and west sides of the crater. It seems to be confined to a space perhaps double the
width of the long diameter of the lake, within pretty regular lines to the north bank and
including the Solfatara on the north bank. A larger volume, warmer and stronger is also
thrown out of the "Devil's Kitchen."
Wm. R. Castle, 10th visit, 26 March 1894
4 a.m. Messrs. C. & J. Walker, Mitchell, Rooke & Hayles visited crater. 28
fountains were playing. Combined light from lanterns and crater formed an awe inspiring
sight. Visitors are strongly recommended to visit Madame Pele by night. Mr. Lee's
opposition may be overcome by strategy. Hide lamps & sticks in your beds.
no signature, 2 April 1894
The place has changed considerably, the crater being much more active.
J.B. Scott, Minneapolis, Minn., 9 April 1894
We were particularly fortunate in having a perfect day (the finest in three months
we were informed) for our ride from Hilo. The evening being clear and starlight, fine,
with a guide we started for the scene of activity. Until a few weeks past it has been
considered unsafe to make the trip after dark and we were the second party conducted
there since January. The trail followed is barely completed, the old one having been
obliterated by the flowing lava. We walked over hot lava not two months old, which
necessitated picking our way very carefully, as there was danger of stepping on a crust
not strong enough to bear one's weight. After toiling on in this manner for some time we
were richly rewarded by the scene which met our gaze. Numerous fountains were
spouting in the midst of a lake of living fire and we witnessed many changes while there.
Immense portions of the opposite bank gave way and fell in, thus creating showers of
sparks and sending waves of fire toward the spot where we stood. At this sight one of the
party (a gentleman from Chicago) was seized with uncontrollable fright, and our stay was
cut short. The panic stricken tourist left early next morning for Hilo, with the one idea of
getting as far as possible from the object of his visit.
M.M. Fisher & Mrs. M.M. Fisher, Detroit, Mich., 22 April 1894
Illustrations:
The gentleman from Chicago. Page 114
Very rough drawing of Kilauea Crater, 4 Nov 1896, 10 a.m. Page 119.
Cross section of Halemaumau as it appeared 21 March 1894, L.A. Thurston; showing
surface of molten lava and levee, with one part of levee 30 feet higher than the rest. Page
120.
Three cross sections of Halemaumau, 11-12 July 1894, L.A. Thurston; showing different
levels of molten lava and changes in walls of pit on 11 July 10 a.m., 11 July 8 p.m., and
12 July 9 a.m. Page 121.
Mr. Lee states that on the 21 of March, the day after Mr. Dodge left, the North
Wall of the Lake was suddenly elevated to a height of about 80 feet above the Lake,
presenting the appearance shown above.
On the 18 of Apl. the hill began to sink slowly.
At the time of my arrival here on July 5, the hill was about 30 ft. higher than the
other banks, and the Lake was about 10 ft. below the lower banks.
On Saturday at 7 the Lake overflowed its banks, and remained either full or at
about 10 ft. below the banks until Tuesday night, the 10th.
On the morning of the 11th we could see from the Volcano House that the hill had
sunk down nearly to the level of the other banks. A party descended, arriving at the Lake
at 10 a.m. The surface of the Lake, by measurement with a line, was 50 feet below the
bank, and the bank where the hill had stood was falling in.
The point of junction of the hill with the floor of the crater marked "A" above was
separated from the floor by a crack 6 ft. wide, through which fire was visible. The hill
was nearly level. The Lava in the lake continued to fall all day. At night it was estimated
to be 250 feet below the edge of the banks.
As the lake fell, the area which had constituted the hill followed it down, the outer
half falling into the Lake, and the half next to the wall sinking in a shattered condition,
but not being covered by lava. The falling area of bank, was the entire width of the lake-800 feet long, and approximately 400 wide.
At 8 o'clock in the evening when I left, the profile of the lake was as follows; the
extension of the lake shown upon Mr. Dodge's map--p.110--proving to be only 60 feet
deep. [Here he has drawn three cross-sections of Halemaumau from July 11 and 12
1894.] The depths were ascertained by actual measurement by lowering a rope over the
bluffs.
Many times the bank fell in in such quantities that it did not sink, forming floating
islands which lasted for hours--the largest was estimated at 125' by 30 by 10 ft. high.
During the night of the 11 the East and West Banks fell in for a distance of from
30 to 100 feet back from the edge.
On the night of the 11 the debris slope was red hot and 5 small streams were
running back into the Lake from openings in the walls. Nearly all of the walls uncovered
by the sinking lava were found to be overhanging. As they fell in, the exposed surface
was shown to be red hot.
Two earthquakes were felt during the 11th & 1 on the morning, 2 a.m. of the 12,
at Volcano House. Many slight shakes were felt throughout the 11 on the brink of the
Lake, but not as hard as those at the House.
The activity of the Lake continued throughout the day as usual and has since
somewhat increased.
The overhanging walls of the Lake have continued to fall at intervals up to the
present time.
On the 12th ________ Silva, photographer of Hilo took a series of pictures of the
break down.
L.A. Thurston, 16 July 1894
In two mornings I shot the following birds near the Volcano House: (1) Iiwi, (2)
Apapane (3) Amakihi (4) Akikiki (5) Akialoa (6) Elepaio (7) Olomao (=Omao=Kamao)
8. Akakane.
R.C.L. Perkins, for Royal Soc. & British Association, 25 July 1894
After visiting the burning mountain I fail to find words to express myself, so will
simply freight myself to Hilo.
Richard H. Collins, Alameda, Cal., 25 July 1894
Newspaper article: Changes at the Volcano: Advertiser, 1894, page 123.
I was at the rim of the pit (Halemaumau) the afternoon and evening of July 24, 25,
27, 30, and Aug. 4, 1894.
The lake was active, the largest fountain (Old Faithful) playing once or twice a
minute, coming up each time as one, two or three large bubbles and then being quiet till
the next burst, the other fountains, four to six generally at a time playing often several
minutes before quieting down. Old Faithful always played in the same place in which it
played in March 1892 when I saw it on four different days. The guide says it has been in
the same place ever since. The other fountains were not confined to any particular
locality.
Aside from the surface appearance of the lake, there were at this time three points
of special interest: (1) the change in the height of the lake, (2) the falling in of the sides of
the pit, and (3) the floating islands.
The guide informed me that the height of the lake and the contour of the walls of
the pit were substantially the same on July 24 as just after the drop of July 11. This was
apparently so. A large portion of the original wall as shown by its smooth black surface
was still standing, on the south side, the only portion of this which had fallen in being the
uppermost 20 or 25 feet which had overhung the lake and fallen off when its support was
removed by the draining away of the lake. That this upper part overhung was shown by
the curve of the wall outward (toward center of lake) just below the fallen part. There was
no change in the height of the lake and no falling in of the sides from the 24th until after
the 27th. On the 28th and 29th there was much falling in of the sides, as shown by
frequent clouds of dust and on the 30th I noticed that the lake had fallen about 15 ft. On
Aug. 2 there was also much falling in and on Aug. 4 I noticed that the lake had falled
about 20 ft. more. The falling took place chiefly on the north and south sides. The last
portion of the original wall above mentioned fell between the 27th and 30th July.
The guide said that two large islands made of pieces of fallen cliff had drifted at
the time of the drop and become fastened, one to the north wall, the other to the south
wall. These were still large on the 24th but had become mostly melted away by Aug. 4.
There was one large island near the middle of the lake each time I went down. The first
three times I could not see the whole of it from any one point from which I looked at it.
On the 30th I got a good view from another point. Its shape was as in figure. [Here he has
drawn an outline of the lake, with arrows indicating direction. Note :Brigham's copy of
this sketch is distorted.] Its length AB was perhaps 130 ft, its height at B about 8 ft, at A
about 12 or 15 ft and at C 18 or 20 ft. Its surface was flat, except that there was a
depression in the middle shown by the dotted lines in the figure. It was black and smooth
as if covered by molten lava thrown over it. The sides were steep but not all
perpendicular. On Aug. 4 its outline had changed slightly; it was flat, the depression
having been nearly filled; it was level, the lower portions having been raised to the height
of the point C; the sides were for the most part perpendicular or overhanging; and there
were swift currents in the lake near the island in the direction of the arrows in the figure.
On Aug. 4 I saw another island to the south of the large one. It was oval in shape, perhaps
20 x 30 ft in its diameters and about 10 or 12 ft height, with perpendicular and
overhanging sides.
I visited the pit crater Makaopuhi July 31 and Aug. 2. Saw considerable steam
issuing from cracks in it, mostly at the intersection of the wall with the talus, that is,
along the top of the talus.
W.F. Frear, 7 Aug 1894
Illustration: Map view of Halemaumau, 30 July 1894, W.F. Frear; showing currents in
the lake. Page 125.
Arrived here on the evening of the 5th. Had a pleasant trip and good weather right
through to the Volcano House. Here everything is as good as could be expected, almost
as nice as would be desired, The crater was quite active on Monday night when we
visited it, and am looking forward to tonight's excursion to its awful brink.
Mr. Lee, the host, is genial, kind, and obliging. This has often said before but I am
afraid that not enough has been said for Ah Hee. Hee seems to be the ruling spirit among
the guests. At table we find him smilingly passing the ohelo berries. When we go to our
rooms Ah Hee is making up the beds. When in need of a sulphur bath Hee turns the
steam on; towels, hot or cold water, fires and all sorts of things are at your disposal if you
call on Ah Hee. Long may he live.
The crater is well worth seeing, and no matter how long or rough a trip one might
take to visit it he must feel repaid. No words seem more expressive to me than awful and
wonderful.
Now that I have seen this fearful crater, thought of the wondrous works of God
and of nature, and of my own insignificance, I humbly sign my name.
Margaret Roche, Honolulu, 8 Aug 1894
Madame Pele showed off splendidly during our brief stay at the Volcano House.
We called on her on the evenings of the 5th & 8th, and she allowed six and eight
fountains to play at one time; we also saw a large piece of the island break off. It was a
grand sight, and one never to be forgotten. We leave for Hilo at eight o'clock this
morning, after having spent three delightful days at this fine hotel. I suppose it is needless
to say that words cannot express how wonderful and fascinating the lake is; it is much
better by night than by day, and I think that I could watch it all night, and witness the
changes which take place.
Lily Loo, Honolulu, 9 Aug 1894
Illustration: Full page of several rough drawings, 15 Aug 1894. 1. Ship anchored in rough
water for 30 hours, 500 feet from land. 2. Winding track of railroad being transformed
into centipede. 3. A pig and a bull. 4. A stagecoach. 5. Steam cracks. 6. The Crater. 7.
Someone sleeping. Page 127.
Leave the Volcano House this A.M. Have had a fine time since here and intend to
come again next year. I have visited every point of interest within 5 or 6 miles of the
"House" and have been to the crater 5 times, including once in the daytime.
Made the trip into Kilauea Iki with Mr. Williams and Mr. W.R. Castle of
Honolulu; the latter acting as guide; and we are deeply indebted to him for the many
pleasant places we saw.
The local travel is very large at the present time; and Host Lee is to be praised for
the first class manner in which the Volcano House is carried on. With Aloha nui to the
Lee Brothers and my friends at the hotel, I leave for other pleasures.
Robt. C.A. Peterson, Austinville, Hawaiian Is., 17 Aug 1894
Illustration: Map of Halemaumau with cross section, 30 July 1894, F.S. Dodge; 200 feet:
1 inch; showing Sunken Hill, Old Faithful, and Dry Lake; cross section cuts through all
of these. Page 130.
Came up today from Hilo. New road excellent, finished to within 1/4 mile of
Volcano House.
At 5 p.m. rode mule to within 1/3 mile of Halemlaumau, returning to Hotel at 9
p.m. Found the lake greatly obscured by steam. Its outline appeared to be nearly identical
with that in April 1892. The activity was very similar. The large billowy fountain S.E. of
the center remains much the same as described by me in this record at that time. The
large spraying fountain south of the center, and the still larger one N.W. of the same are
in nearly the same position as then and similar in activity. It is wonderful how little
change there is in the lake itself, after having risen 400 feet, building up and out 70
million cubic yards of rock, and then subsiding to its present tremendous depth. The
present form of the pit is that represented accurately by Mr. F.S. Dodge on the opposite
page. The lake occupies a somewhat less area, about the same as during the past 3 years,
or 8 acres, not extending so near the sides of the pit as he then represented it.
A great change must have taken place in the depth since the last of July. Having
had some previous practice at estimating the depth, I am unable, after careful inspection
without an instrument, to estimate the present depth of the surface of the lake below the
upper rim of the pit as less than 600 feet. I think it is probably nearer 700.
It is a terrific hole. One seems to be looking into the inner depths of the globe, and
its internal fires. It seems fully as deep as Kilauea-iki.
S.E. Bishop, 28 Aug 1894
Rah Rah Rah for California. Admitted to the Union this day 1850. This afternoon
Pele celebrated and there was a grand fall of one of the walls.
no signature, 9 Sept 1894
At a quarter of nine o'clock a.m. Sept. 13th we started on our Columbia bicycles
from Pahala Plantation, Kau, for the volcano. Riding wherever we were able which was
about half the time and pushing the rest of the way we arrived at the Halfway House at
12:15. Here we got a good meal and rested. At 2 p.m. started on again and had to push
the wheel almost the entire way arriving at the Volcano House at about 7:30 in the
evening. In the P.M. of the 14th we visited the Lake and again on the 15th. Found it quite
active but there was so much smoke it was only at intervals the surface of the lake could
be seen. We continue our bicycle trip after lunch today for Hilo on the new road which
was completed to this point on the 13th inst.
W.J. Forbes, David Thrum, 16 Sept 1894
THE CARRIAGE ROAD
FROM HILO TO VOLCANO
Completed Sept. 13th 1894
Dr. R.B. Williams and Mr. F.M. Wakefield, of Hilo, was the first party, who came
through to the Volcano by private conveyance, after completion of the Road.
no signature and no date
Left Kau Nov. 7 and passed through districts of Kona, S. Kohala & Hilo & now
am leaving for Naalehu. Crater very active.
Alex Lindsay Jr., 24 Nov 1894
Strange and wonderful is all I can say, other words fail me.
C.D. Chase, Honolulu, 10-12 Dec 1894
Madame Pele gave us a warm, but not a gushing welcome, she took up our voices
and gave them back to us with wonderful sweetness. She is grand and interesting beyond
words to describe.
Mrs. Frances B. Edgerton, San Francisco, 30 Dec 1894
The fire in the Crater disappeared quietly during the night, Decb. 6/95. J.M.L.
Someone scratched a penciled 4 over the 5 in 95. Probably 94 is correct, because the next
entries, Feb. 1895, found no fire.
Arrived by way of S.S. Kinau & Hilo Jan. 31, visited crater Feb. 1st--No fire to be
seen, some smoke, and plenty of steam--offered Madame Pele $1 for an exhibition but
she refused.
B.K. Denbigh, of Thos. Cook & Son, San Francisco, 2 Feb 1895
Volcano not active: Came from Australia expecting to see it active & though
disappointed, am not sorry I have visited this locality. Came via "Hilo" and return by the
"Hall" to Honolulu. Think what I have seen is well worth the cost.
Wm. G. Gibson, 28 Feb 1895
Should I ever be fortunate enough to find my way hither again it would be to see
not the greatest volcano on earth but the "greatest landlord on earth." Mr. Peter Lee and
his brother Mr. Martin Lee who both make it so nice and comfortable for all their visitors.
I have been here about 12 days and have found everything highly enjoyable.
William Ross, Honolulu, 8 March 1895
They told us the fire goddess Pele
Belched forth flaming lava with vim
And every man-mortal who saw her
Thought Hades invented for him.
But here have we come from far countries
At this wrathy old lady to peep
To find her all quiet in slumber
And smoking a pipe in her sleep.
Mrs. Louis Callish, San Jose, Calif., 26 March 1895
We did not find the volcano active--but found the crater--and a wee drop of the
same at the Volcano House, discovered by the genial Mr. Lee who has added much to our
delightful stay at this attractive spot. Leave for Hilo in the morning. Very little rain
during past three days. Hope this is but au revoir.
Ogden Backus, Rochester NY, 26 March 1895
Reached here this a.m. from Waiohinu and regret to say that the volcano is not
near as active as it was when the German scientists (Friedlanders) were here Jan. 1-2/94.
G.K. Wilder, 4 April 1895
There's a hole called Kilauea
four thousand feet up in the air
But the boiling lava's gone
Leaving all Hawaii to mourn.
A.M. Robertson, 6 April 1895
Plutonic Studies No. 1, after a continuous residence at the Volcano House during
the months of April and May 1895.
Here follows six pages of rubbish leading to the following conclusions. I'm not about to
transcribe all the rubbish.
...In view of Study No. 1 it would appear that the theory that meteors are stray
visitors from space or other planets, now held by the scientific world, is not tenable, and
the theory that they are of terrestrial origin receives additional force.
In view of Study No. 2 it is manifestly impossible for this Earth to be moving at
the rate of 17 miles per second around ______, or towards any sideral apex, nor can it be
true that we are journeying at the rate of 11 miles per second on an annual orbit around
the sun.
It is valueless to ask me how the Lunar phases are to be accounted for and what
provision has been made to accommodate the eclipses, it is no concern of mine that these
logical deductions from known premises disturb accepted ideas concerning cosmical
relations. It has been a severe conflict with me as it will be with others to overturn the
fixed educational gods that at present dominate all evidence as facts, and it will be
difficult indeed to obtain a hearing.
Stephen J. Cox, New York, May-June 1895
Dear old Madam Pele is quietly sleeping in her grave, but we all hope she will
soon come to life.
no signature and no date, but June or July 1895
My second visit to volcano. Dense volumes of smoke pour out of the crater; depth
about 5000 feet. Weather delightful and cool. No other place in the world offers such
health-giving properties as the locality of the Volcano House. On a tour through the
Island of Hawaii, writing up the coffee plantations in Olaa, thence to Kau and Kona and
back to Honolulu by the "Hall." Spent delightful 3 weeks here.
C.S. Bradford, City Editor "Advertiser," 29 Oct 1895
Kona-Kau telephone line from Kailua to Volcano House 98 miles, completed this
day at 4:30 p.m. by L.S.A. ____, Joseph Pritchard, Bert Stone and gang. C.S. Bradford
first used the line and spoke a distance of about 100 miles. Landlord Lee celebrated the
occasion and furnished "light" refreshment. It is now possible to telephone 180 miles
from Volcano House, from Honokaa to Kailua.
no signature, 6 Nov 1895
Windy and blustery day; about 3 p.m. heavy rain storm; weather cleared shortly
after, when slight fall of snow fell on Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea, second fall on Mauna
Loa of the year.
no signature, 7 Nov 1895
The following entry has been translated from Hawaiian by Dorothy Barrere.
Aloha oe e Pele, Ka Alii Wahini o Kalua. Ua ike aku'la ia lalo o ka Lua i keia
kakahiaka hora 9, aohe he Ahi i keia wa, nolaila o ke a-a wale no o lalo ke ike ia aku a
me ka mahu, a e huli hoi aku ana no Honolulu ma ke Kinau i ke ahiahi o ka la apopo,
Poaono, 5 p.m. Ke haawi nei i ko'u mahalo piha i ka Nani a me oluolu o keia wahi
Volcano House.
Aloha to you, Pele, the Chiefly Woman of the Pit. I looked at the bottom of the Pit
this morning at 9; there was no fidre at this time-only the a-a below was to be seen, and
the steam. I am returning to Honolulu on the Kinau in the late afternoon tomorrow,
Saturday, at 5 p.m. I give my full thanks for the beauty and comfort of this place, the
Volcano House. Aloha.
Jesse Peliholani Makainai, Honolulu, 22 Nov 1895
Illustration: Two cross sections of Halemaumau Lake, Jan 1896, showing molten lava
colored red; caricature of Madame Pele. Page 150.
The lava returned to the crater Jan. 3d 1896 at 11:30 p.m. and formed during that
night the lake of above dimensions. There has been no fire in the crater since Decb. 6/94.
A longer period of inactivity than any previously recorded. The lava apparently flowed
out of a cone or blowhole ca. 200 ft. above the extreme bottom of the pit and not from the
bottom itself. The lava broke out quietly without any previous indication of eruption.
J.M. Lee, 3 Jan 1896
Attracted to this place by reports of renewal of activity in the great crater after its
cessation of 13 mos, I am much pleased to find myself the first newspaper representative
on the ground for the '96 manifestation. The Volcano Co. and S.S. people in Honolulu
have been very obliging and Hilo friends were cordial and attentive. The hotel is very
satisfactory and the courtesy of Mr. Peter Lee and his brother is very pleasing to a visitor.
The sight of the live lava lake was to me far more surprising than anticipated. The
spectacle affords a marvelous view calculated to arouse quite unusual impressions and
emotions. Further particulars concerning the especial enterprise, and the Hilo project to
fence in the Pacific Ocean, will be found in the Daily Star of Honolulu, the live
newspaper of that place.
Honolulu people who seem mightily delighted over news that the volcano was
"up" again: Chas. Wight, L.A. Thurston, E.C. Macfarlane, Capt. Godfrey, Capt. King,
C.S. Chase, Tom Krouse, H.M. Whitney (predicted outbreak 2 mos. ago and says to
continue 2 yrs active), Jim Quinn. J.S. Martin said lava came because prisoners pardoned.
Martin is a half baked kahuna and will come here later to make offerings and get well
done.
Ed Towse, Editor Star, 14 Jan 1896
A native and wife of Honolulu, who have been in Kau since July last now here.
They visited Halemaumau. Woman made offering to Pele of bottle of brandy and
eatables.
The Premier, Attorney General and minister of mines of Queensland here. They
seem very much pleased and will call again if opportunity affords.
Ed Towse, 12 Jan 1896
Honolulu may boast of its harbour, but the best anchorage for travellers on these
islands is under the Lee of the volcano.
"In the beginning God created the earth," and creation is still going on in Kilauea.
"And the Lord God planted a garden in Eden, and out of the ground made the
Lord God grow every tree that is pleasant to the sight and good for food," and so it is in
this Paradise of the Pacific.
F.W. Godral, Jan 1896
You may dream and have visions of Hades
Of lakes filled with sulphur, red hot
Of Satan whose business and trade is
Just stewing live souls in his pot
But none of your dreamings can picture the spell
When old Kilauea is raising----but that I can't tell.
J.D.H., 22 Jan 1896
Old Kilauea suggests so much
The sublime, the infernal and such
'
Tis vain the attempt to convey it to paper
Midst so much fire, foul odors and vapor.
James S. Creamer, 22 Jan 1896
The "suggestion," the "grandeur," as all men will find,
Is like many other things--all in the mind;
Drop off your adjectives, write the facts, all
And "Old Kilauea" gets most blooming small.
I.S.A.W., 22 Jan 1896
Oh, Kilua, red Kilua!
As standing on thy rim today
I gazed within thy seething mass
And saw Tartarus 'fore me pass.
Chor.--Oh, Kilua! bright Kilua!
How all thy burning fountains play
And hiss like serpents tortured may
When one disturbs them where they lay
Speak, thou wonder, tell me pray
Art Hades' gate, oh Kilua?
Oh, Kilua, within thy sea
Many devils seem to be,
Who stir thy lava ever more
And crack thy breast from shore to shore.
Chor.--Oh Kilua! not Kilua
When life and love shall pass away
Shall thy fire-rivers run alway;
Or in the distance grim and gray
No more shalt thou with fire assay
To burn the world, Oh, Kilua?
J.D.H., 22 Jan 1896
A Dreadful Warning
I stood upon the dizzy brink
Of Kilauea's burning sink-Then turning from the molten shore,
I said "I'll go and sin no more."
no signature, 25 Jan 1896
Paradoxical
Poets have sung of great Pele,
Have praised her and called her most fair;
Raved of her red molten lashes,
And made many rhymes to her hair.
But none have said aught of her loving,
Her lips or her hot eyes that hiss-Oh, surely the bards worship Pele,
But none of them wants Pele's kiss.
Hayne, 25 Jan 1896
During my very enjoyable ten days' sojourn here, I have made more than half a
dozen trips to the little crater within the big one. On the occasion of each visit a different
picture has been presented to view by the molten mass at the bottom of the vast cauldron.
Perhaps the most interesting one was seen when I sat on the edge with Herr Berger and
his band boys, who had come up from Hilo to witness the grand exhibition. On the
evening referred to a huge capital A made its appearance in yellowish lines upon the
blackened surface. then the invisible artist drew an excellent likeness of the benign
countenance of George Washington, and we all came to the conclusion that Madame Pele
was taking this means of making known the fact that she is heartily in favor of annexing
the Islands to the United States. A little later the entire figure of the old lady herself
appeared. She was holding in her outstretched hand a frying pan underneath which a fire
was blazing. "She's cooking her supper," was the unanimous verdict. Over to the right, all
this time, a beautiful fountain was playing with ceaseless activity. The fiery lava was
thrown up perhaps twenty-five feet and, after falling, it gracefully continued its
downward course over a precipice fifteen or twenty feet high. Now and then part of the
surface near the fountain became blackened, broke into pieces and rolled over the brink,
like cakes of ice over a miniature Niagara. I shall never forget the picture. Nowhere on
this footstool can a more thrilling and impressive scene be witnessed.
Wm. J. Kline, Amsterdam, N.Y., 2 Feb 1896
The fire disappeared again on Jan. 28th/96.
J.M. Lee, 28 Jan 1896
The crater of Mokuaweoweo is again active. The fire broke out some time during
last night, but on account of dense clouds enveloping Mauna Loa the smoke was not
noticed from here till 7:25 this morning.
With exception of a slight earthquake at 9:50 this evening everything is quiet and
peaceful, and at intervals when the clouds roll by we can see the fire brilliantly reflected
in the sky.
Mokuaweoweo was active in Decbr. 92 but it lasted only 3 days. there has been
no continued activity since February 1887.
Kilauea is continuously smoking but otherwise inactive.
J.M. Lee, 21 April 1896
Reached Volcano House Apr. 26. Went with the party of thirteen and five guides
to the crater of Mokuaweoweo, starting from the Volcano House Apr. 28 at 6 a.m.
Returned Apr. 30 reaching Volcano House at 6:30 p.m.
The trip was a successful, tho difficult one. The outfit provided by Mr. Montserrat
was all that could be desired. The crater of Mokuaweoweo is the grandest sight my eyes
ever beheld seen as we saw it--the lake of fire, the great fountains playing continuously
one of them throwing up a mighty column of orange colored flame to a height of 250
feet.
I will leave description to the scientific men of the party and will only add that
such a trip is the crowning experience of a lifetime.
Kilauea--Halemaumau--is quiescent, Madam Pele having apparently removed her
royal court to the summit of Mt. Loa which has put on white in honor of her presence.
The Volcano House is a splendid hostelry mine host Mr. Lee the prince of good
fellows...
See map of Mokuaweoweo on next leaf, and record of expedition on page 161.
Elbert R. Dille, Pastor Central M.E. Church San Francisco, 1 May 1896
Illustrations:
Map of Mokuaweoweo, April 1896, F.S. Dodge; 2000 feet:1 inch; includes Smoking
Cones, Lake and Fountains, New Lava of 1896, and Place of Eruption. Page 159.
Full-page drawing of Madam Pele amidst an eruption. Page 160.
Tuesday, April 28, 1896, an expedition left the Volcano House for the crater of
Mokuaweoweo, on the summit of Mauna Loa, which had been in eruption about eleven
days. The expedition was under the conduct of Julian Monsarrat, manager of Kapapala
cattle ranch, who sent a guide and horses to fetch the main body to the dairy station at
Ainapo, fifteen miles from the Volcano House. Ainapo was reached at 10 a.m., and after
a stay of one hour for refreshments and a change of horses, the expedition proceeded on
its way up the steep slopes. Besides the conductor, two women and one man, with an
additional guide and four native assistants for camp duty, joined the party at Ainapo, the
entire personnel of the expedition being as follows:
Rev. F.R. Dille, D.D., pastor Central M.E. Church, San Francisco
Bradley H. Phillips, Buffalo, N.Y.
Mrs. Helen Graham, late of New York City, now residing in her
native city of Honolulu
Frank S. Dodge, of the Hawaiian Government Survey
F.M. Wakefield, barrister, representing the Hilo "Tribune"
Julian Montsarrat
J.K. Harley, Koloa, Kauai
D. Howard Hitchcock, artist, Hilo
E.H. Wilson, teacher, Puna, Hawaii
E.D. Baldwin, surveyor and Sub-Land Agent, Hilo
Peter Lee, manager Volcano House
Miss Waikieala, Ainapo
Daniel Logan, editor "Evening Bulletin," Honolulu
Geo. W. Paty, Pahala, Hawaii
Two native guides
and three helpers.
For some distance, after a short rise, the route lay through an undulating tract of
forest-clad land of good pasturage, passing which the climbing began in earnest. A halt
was made at a water hole in the woods, Anipeahi, to refresh the animals. The elevation
here is 5800 feet. At 1:40 the trail is resumed and it is comparatively steep and rugged,
traversing both pahoehoe and aa flows. The camping place for the night, Kepukakina, is
reached at 3 p.m. There is a shingled house here, 14 feet by 10 feet, and a tent 14 feet by
12 feet is unpacked and pitched for the accommodation of the women and retainers. On
arrival the temperature is 52 degrees Fahrenheit, dropping to 44 at midnight and 42 at
daybreak. A sumptuous lunch of cold meats and bread is eagerly enjoyed immediately
after unpacking but two natives who had dropped behind to hunt fresh meat arrived at
dusk with a quantity of excellent beef they had shot. A hot dinner is cooked on the camp
fire outdoors, around which the party has an agreeably social palaver until early bedtime.
Well supplied with blankets by our conductor, the company has a tolerably good rest. The
reflection of the volcano more than five thousand feet above, upon great banks of moonlit
clouds rolling over the crest of the mountain is in itself worth the trouble of the trip.
Besides this a sunrise unparalleled in gorgeousness by anything that any of us had ever
seen is to be noted as part of the reward of our toil. It looked like one of the heavenly
visions of the Apocalypse, being nothing less than a golden landscape laved with a royal
purple sea, pictured in the clouds. We break camp after an excellent breakfast at 7:40
a.m. on Wednesday. Resting amid the sea of rocks--a sea whose waves are tilted up
considerably--at an elevation (by aneroid barometer) of 9600 feet, a cloud sweeps along
the face of the mountain from the eastward, reaching us before we resume saddles. It
carries snow and hail alternately, ending with a regular downeasterly pelting snowstorm
as we proceed to mount the lava stairs. Although more than twelve years since the present
annalist had been in a snowstorm, it is in earnest that he declares the sensation produced
by this one was not disagreeable but rather exhilarating. What made it extremely
interesting, and an experience that few countries can afford, was the fact that, the
atmosphere below us being clear, we could see from the midst of our wintry encounter
the luxuriant sugar cane fields of Pahala plantation near the base of the mountain. Most of
the remainder of the journey is over precipitous ridges, and each succeeding crest
meeting the sky had the alluring prospect of being the last. The trail winds zigzaggedly-in a vertical as well as a lateral sense--amongst a wilderness of hills made of every
variety of lava. For fully three thousand feet from the summit there is not the faintest sign
of vegetation. The highest up growth I saw was neither fern nor shrub, but a few far
separated sprigs of grass peeping out of crevices. When the top ridge is surmounted there
is a slight declivity as the trail is taken over more than a mile of aa whose pieces are
shaped more like tiles or thick bricks than the variety met on the slopes. At length we
actually meet the horizon. This is the first time I have ever seen a veritable jumping off
place. It is like finding the foot of a rainbow. For here we come to a stone parapet and,
looking beyond it, while standing on its outer verge, we see nothing ahead but sheer
atmosphere adulterated with drifting snow. There is indeed the flame of an enormous
candle descried in the midst of the white oblivion, but not candlestick nor table on which
it rests is visible. It is a light shining in white darkness, and the advance riders swing their
hats and cheer. This is the volcano. The exercise of riding being past, the excursionists
are soon shivering violently in the pitiless blast, against which there is not even the
shadow of a barricade. There is a cleft in the rocks, however, provided by some
benevolent earthquake long ago--for we had been buoyed up in courage by information
of its existence. It is not more than two yards from the brink of the crater, and into it we
huddle and to some extent restore our waning circulation by bodily quaking with the
cold, while we anxiously await the raising of the curtain for the exhibition of the wonder
we have mounted the stately dome to see. As if to introduce us by degrees to a spectacle
too stupendous for surprising mortal eyes in one instant, the swirling tempest from the
skies gradually abates within the crater. For a few minutes even the candle already
mentions becomes hidden. It suddenly flares up again and as we strain our gaze it is
transformed into a sputtering fountain of exploding rockets, whose fiery trail is seen all at
once. Then another flame appears away to the left, not rising high but burning fiercely
like the fire excited in a forge by the bellows. At the same time the screen parts two or
three hundred feet to the right, disclosing another fountain of only less magnitude than
the first. Continuing to dissipate the shimmering white veil is at last totally vanished,
leaving the entire crater of Mokuaweoweo exposed to view in a clear atmosphere. If there
is a word better than sublime to describe awful grandeur and gorgeous beauty in
combination, the reader must be left to supply it for the scene that is opened before us
like a vision from the "undiscovered continent." According to official records, the crater
is about three and a half miles long and one and three quarters broad. Its perpendicular
wall on the western side, opposite to where we stand, is, by official but conflicting
surveys, from 700 to 1000 feet in height. At either end are old ledges of lava, perhaps-doubt being indicated because dimensions are deceitful in this rarified atmosphere and at
our angle of observation--twenty or thirty feet above the level of the present plane of
action. The point of view is at Commodore Wilke's (U.S.N.) camp when making an
official survey of the crater in 1841, this cliff being stated to be four hundred feet high,
and the plane of action is fully four square miles in extent. The two fountains mentioned
are playing in the middle of a molten lake two thousand feet in greatest length and
perhaps about three-fourths that in breadth. I give these figures on the authority of Mr.
Baldwin, who makes them out by scaling the recorded plans, adopting the principle,
which is disputed by some, that a lake in a crater is the whole territory on which the
erupted lava finds its level limits while liquid, at any given period of observation. The
fountains of Mokuaweoweo are different from those of Kilauea when in activity, in that
they preserve their relative positions toward each other and their environment, besides
being in constant and uniform action. When I say uniform I mean that, although their
ebullitions are varying in violence, as well as in height of projection, the changes proceed
in steady alternation and there is never a moment of total subsidence. In the lake of
Halemaumau in the Kilauea crater, on the other hand, the fountains are constantly
changing in position and number both, and sometimes for several minutes the entire
surface would be crusted over, showing scarcely a streak of fire. The forms assumed by
the fountains of Mokuaweoweo are of exceeding beauty. Each one shows a multiplied
facade of spires composed of thousands of bunched jets of orange color, the spire to the
extreme left the tallest and the others--perhaps eight or ten--diminishing to the extreme
left one. The component jets fall inward, when their upward impetus is lost, in graceful
parabolas excepting when, at every major ejection, there is a fierce explosive-like
projection outwardly from the main spire. The whole effect is that of an illuminated
Gothic cathedral front. In ascent the velocity of the ejections is that of a rocket
multiplied. Stupendous projective force is what impresses one together with the
extraordinary pyrotechnical beauty of the display. At the bases of the fountains there is an
unintermittent boiling and surging, and a sullen roar of awful majesty rises and falls like
that of the ocean beating on a rockbound shore. The jets are intermingled with a
profusion of dark angular projectiles, giving the appearance of a shower of bricks as they
fall, which I am informed is pumice stone. In line with the large fountains are small ones-merely miniature in comparison--which play at frequent intervals like those of Kilauea,
right out to the verges of the lake. There is a steady aa flow from the fierce caldrons,
which is fast covering a deposit of pahoehoe that we generally agree came from a former
eruption. We see its outer edge being pushed slowly but surely by the grinding and
rolling mass behind toward the lower bank beneath us. The van of the movement is
marked with crimson fire, and the whole area of the flow is streaked and dotted with
similar evidences of fiery vitality. While we are gazing in raptures on the spectacle, a
phenomena of wonderful interest, noted by observers of previous eruptions, is repeatedly
witnessed. The heat produces a fierce whirlwind at the opposite side of the crater. It is
shaped like a pillar, slender and pale brown, high as the cliff opposite, or a thousand feet,
and symmetrical as a Corinthian pillar. As it rushes along at galloping speed, with a spiral
motion, its lower end rips up the massive lava crust in huge slabs and tosses these aside
like the action of a steamer's propeller in friable ice. There is an exposure of fire beneath
at every upturning of the crust, adding greatly to our comprehension of the whole scope
of the volcano's activity. The maximum violence of the fountains is attained every few
minutes, not always simultaneously in both, but as to the highest projection of the spray
there is a difference of opinion in our party. I am of the faction that gives it at least five
hundred feet, and consider this an underestimate rather than an exaggeration. We judge
by the distance from us, about one mile, and the height of the opposite cliff. Standing
four hundred feet above the base--and this is the fact that makes me regard the figure
given here as ultra-moderate--the highest projectiles frequently noticed cut a line more
than halfway up the precipice. The evidence of observers of previous eruptions, contained
in the Volcano House records, tells of fountains playing much higher, and, unscientific
though the remark may be, what Mokuaweoweo has done once she can do again. The
foregoing is a feeble attempt to portray the volcano in daylight. I cannot venture to
describe, with any hope of success, the scene when night brought out in clear relief the
full splendor of the visional feast of fire. It matters not now where the live fence lies
between lake and flow, for a million stars and a thousand stripes are impartially
distributed over this field of Nature's heraldry. The subsidiary fires blink and dance in
ecstasy, mocking the sublime range of their parents. These giants seem to fling their
missiles in air with increasing fury, as if jealous of the serene queen of night's supremacy
over a wider realm than theirs. Their Apollyonic roar sounds more awful in that lofty
desolation than when their glory was paled in presence of the king of day. It is now a vast
farm of fire and flame set in a wilderness wherein nothing having life dwells to rejoice in
their life and light, and, placed in the midst, two candleabras lent from the realms of
death and darkness presumptuously trying to outshine everlasting day on the other side of
the curtain of night. although nearly all in the party, including four of the native men,
were more or less unnerved with mountain sickness aggravated by the piercing wintry
blast, not one but lingered to look at this supreme sight of a lifetime. Human endurance
has its limit, however, and, with few exceptions, when the party, in two tents, wrapped
their blankets around them over an unusually thick covering of outer clothing, and lay
down in huddled ranks to invoke "his beloved sleep" upon the stone mattress, there was
no arising until at dawn the call to breakfast and saddle was made. Wood enough had
been packed on the backs of the patient animals, to cook supper and breakfast, yet
appetites were a scarce commodity although hot food and drink there were to spare.
While taking a last enraptured look over the brink, a not uninfluential coterie voted to call
the two fountains after the heroines of the expedition, namely "Kaikilani" (Mrs. Graham)
and "Waikieala." The latter is one of the exceptions noted, who watched most of the
night, lost in rhapsody over this grandest illumination to be seen on earth, and is reported
to have remarked her surprise that the foreign men should have endured so much to see
the eruption at night, and, when the season had arrived, retire from the scene to
underneath their blankets. Mr. Hitchcock made sketches in colors of both day and night
displays, and we are confident that the results will be worthy records in art of the
Mokuaweoweo eruption of 1896. The thermometer registered 22 degrees in the night,
but, in breaking off an incrustation of ice from its face, at the break of day, the column of
mercury was parted in different places, therefore the minimum temperature on this
occasion cannot be recorded. We rode away from the crater at 8 a.m. on Thursday and
reached Ainapo at 2:20 p.m., having been six hours and twenty minutes in the saddle.
Having taken refreshments and in most cases obtained a change of horses, we left at 3:30,
and the entire party was at the Volcano House two hours later. Messrs. Lee and
Wakefield did this last stage in one hour twenty minutes. In closing let me say that a
more agreeable party never went on a picnic jaunt. Throughout the weary forty miles
each way, not a jarring word was heard, not an impolite allusion behind anyone's back.
Having been thereto appointed by my departing comrades, I have as faithfully as possible
set down the record of the pioneer expedition to spend a night beside the crater of
Mokuaweoweo on the occasion of its present activity. Hoping that the labor may be
acceptable to all with whom I have shared the adventure, as well as of some small interest
to the guests of this excellent hospice, I respectfully submit this imperfect narrative of a
never-to-be-forgotten event for all of us.
Daniel Logan, 2 May 1896
The fire of Mokuaweoweo disappeared again on May 6th 1896, it lasted active
only 15 days. Kilauea is continuously smoking but no lava to be seen.
Peter Lee, 6 May 1896
This is my seventeenth visit to Kilauea, and the fires in it are extinct, though vast
clouds of steam are continually rising from the pit, indicating intense heat below. All
indications point to a return of the lava at an early date, but when, no one can say, as
Madame Pele is very capricious and goes and returns without any previous notice. The
shape of the pit is very similar to that of a crucible, and the depth is estimated to be five
or six hundred feet. The action is likely to be resumed at any time.
The fires on Mauna Loa are extinct, and have been so since the 6th inst.
H.M. Whitney, 18 May 1896
Illustration: Cross section of Halemaumau pit, showing shape, H.M. Whitney. Page 168.
Reverently I stand and gaze
At the awful brink of Kilauea's blaze
Bowing my head and speaking praise
For God Almighty's stupendous ways.
My thanks are due to Mr. Lee
Host of the Volcano House he
For courtesy, hospitality
And cheer at the shrine of Pele.
E.L. Roeder, Santa Barbara, Calif., 30 June 1896
It is stated that the vapor has become much less in volume during the past two
weeks, and it has during the last few days been very light, giving a view of the pit nearly
or quite to the bottom, on the north side. Near the banks the heat has very perceptibly
increased, even within two or three days. Vapors have somewhat increased upon the
banks near the hotel.
Frequent showers of stones are rolling down the pit sides, apparently being
portions of the second ledge, and occasional faint puffs of escaping gas are heard.
Henry C. White, New York City, 9 July 1896
Kilauea active again! Fire returned July 11th in the same manner as recorded Jan.
3d this year--with an eruption from a blowhole ca. 150 or 200 ft. above the bottom of the
pit, but this time on the opposite side. Several streams running out from this blowhole
forming a lake in the bottom with a surface of about 100 x 150 ft. as seen the same night.
The lava was running very slow and was evidently composed of aa. The depth from the
lava-floor and down to the lake ca. 600 ft.
J.M. Lee, 22 July 1896
Below this entry Lee added:
The activity continued for 3 weeks without increasing the lake to any perceptible
degree. After this the lava-lake gradually disappeared and the fire was confined to a cone
in the bottom from which the lava occasionally poured out. This kept on during August
and September when the last sign of fire disappeared.
Nay, Pele, turn your ardent eyes away
Your fiery face inspires me with no terror
If jugs or chickens you expect today
Believe me, goddess, you are much in error.
Nor think to fright me with your breath of fire
Upblown from all your countless yawning craters
They fill my heart with but one fond desire:
Upon your hearth to roast Ah Hee's potatoes.
Zora DeWolf, Albion, 23 July 1896
In the first volume of this work O.H. Gulick asks for records of observers that
may be useful to future generations. It almost seems a pity that a second book was not at
the same time placed on the table called the "Wags Book" where poets, quasi artists and
wit mongers might entertain their less serious and less thoughtful friends, as this vol.
seems to have the maximum of light literature and the minimum of scientific records if
we except Cox. & Co's "Pentonic Studies," a few "differences of opinion" and the very
useful and excellent survey records and sketches not of imagination but of facts.
There can be no doubt that all visitors to these regions may not only contemplate
the vast wonder of creative work but learn a lesson from the master hand on the spot, if
simple records and changes are carefully and correctly recorded both of the action of
Kilauea and of Mauna Loa (Mokuaweoweo) and other more or less active volcanoes
simultaneously.
It is believed that the volcanic condition of the earth is more or less affected by its
magnetic condition and that the magnetic condition of the earth in turn is more or less
affected by the magnetic storms caused by outbreaks of gas or associated with them on
the sun. These are now generally known by the "Sun Spots." These Sun Spots have
"periods" and it would be interesting to see recorded the condition of this active volcano
during such periods of maximum solar spots--again during periods of intense activity a
careful analysis of the flames should be made with the Spectroscope and the heat
obtained as also if possible the burning minerals--and thirdly the periodic use of a
seismograph, or in default thereof a delicate magnetic needle and the results duly
recorded.
It was my pleasure to examine not only the crater of Kilauea known as
Halemaumau but the larger crater of some 72 square miles as also Kalueakiki (not at
present active) on the 28th, 30th & 31th of July by day and night while a slate of activity
was to be noticed at all points no great eruptive force or exceptional heat could be
recorded (on or near surface floor of lava from crater.) Roughly judging the crater (on my
visits) was at surface about 1500 ft across dept to surface of lake 650-670 ft diam of
molten lava on 28th, 360-430 ft across on 31th, 300-400, from the 28th to 30 a rise of a
few feet took place from 30 to 31st a fall of some 30 feet at least.
On all occasions a small cone about 20 ft high existed near N.E. corner of lava on
28th this was active spouting up lava & scoria and increasing its magnitude. On the 30th
it showed signs of fire with plenty of smoke (Sulphur Vapour Steam &c) on the 31st it
seemed so to speak to be left high & dry and little fire but plenty of smoke was noticed.
On the 28th the sea of lava on the lake was only known to be heated by occasional cracks
appearing. On the 30th partial overflows of lava took place and various small escape
holes appeared from time to time.
On the 31st the same was noticed but escape holes were less numerous & less
frequent and at intervals of about 1 3/4 hours (from 5 to 9:30 p.m.) general "break up" of
the lava surface was seen the molten lava breaking through the dark crust and flowing
over it in a mighty stream.
On all these occasions a compass & spectroscope were carefully used. No trace of
magnetic disturbance was seen and only 3 spectroscopic records were noted. The sodium
& hydrogen lines faintly on one or two occasions. I do not think it can be said
notwithstanding the spouting of the small cone on the 28th nor the general lava break up
on the 31st that there was any great activity in the volcano at the time of my visit no
vapour of iron nor gases generally being seen and judging from the rapid way the heated
overflows of lava cooled down combined with the spectroscopic observations the heat
supposed by Dana and other Experimentalists was by no means reached (anywhere near
the surface). It is to be hoped that other careful observers will take this problem in hand
and record their notes from time to time. Especially if they have seen as I have the
volcanoes of Java.
P.S. I may add the Geologyst, Botanist, Lover of Nature, Artist, Poet & Scientist
may spend a month or so with pleasure at this charming home the Volcano House.
A.D.B. Fellow of the Geological Society of London, Fellow of the Royal Astronomical
Society of London, 7 Aug 1896
Illustration: Three cross sections of Halemaumau crater, 1896, showing appearances on
28, 30, and 31 July. Page 174.
There is a town not far from here, whose fame is far widespread
Of all wet places on this earth, it stands right at the head.
There is no need to say to you that it is great Hilo.
Not long ago I went down there to spend a week or so.
Twas raining when I reached there, and if you want to bet,
I'll wager money, love, or chalk, that it is raining yet.
The rain came down in torrents, it drenched me through and through
The people laughed at me and said, Why this is only dew.
They just remove their shoes & hose and let their Trilbies air
The harder that the rain comes down, the less they seem to care.
A friend of mine came round for me to take a walk with him
I said you must excuse me but I never learned to swim
A slicker place than this said he you'll never find again
Said I they wear the slickers to keep away the rain.
Another thing that I don't like, your liquors are too high
And though I'm wet most all the time, most all the time I'm dry.
But now it's time to say adieu, for I must get away
If you ever come to Frisco, just call on F.A.J.
F.A.J., 15 Aug 1896
Kilauea with its lava lapping the sides of the basin is like the ocean ever reaching
for something to devour, ever changing--at times resembling a beautiful golden sunset,
then its jagged streaks like lightning and the roaring is like the thunder. One feels the
power of our maker. Words can never describe it--it is the sight of a lifetime.
no signature and no date; probably late Aug or early Sept 1896
Enjoyed a five days sojourn at this pleasant mountain retreat partaking of the Lee
Brothers hospitality, also Madame Pele who did "the right thing" by us.
Emile White, San Francisco, 6 Nov 1896
Illustrations: Two drawings: 1. Landscape Drawing. 2. Shaded relief map of
Halemaumau, 200'=1"; area of pit = 3.41 acres, A.L. Colsten. Page 176.
Watercolor map of Halemaumau, 8 Sept 1896, including Old Ledge of Dec 1894. Page
177.
A party consisting of [lists party] visitedthe crater the afternoon and evening of
Oct. 8th 1896. The lake was found in the condition represented in the above rough
freehand perspective drawing. The only appearance of activity in the large cone was a
spark fire in the top. The smaller cone however threw out intermittent jets of lava to the
height of fifteen or twenty feet at intervals a few seconds apart. This activity began at
3:45 a.m. and lasted till 8 p.m. At the same time a small bubbling fountain of molten lava
began to play, continuing till 6:45 p.m. The resulting flow is shown by the darker patch in
the drawing.
In the evening the floor of the pit presented a peculiarly fantastic and weird
appearance. Bright cracks ran in all directions over more than three quarters of the
surface of the crater. Occasionally bright white hot spots broke out as the lava sought the
surface. The lake seemed in a restless condition and was rising.
no signature, 8 Sept 1896
Arrived at Volcano House 4 days ago--had a most delightful trip from Honolulu
without getting sea sick. After one night in Hilo continued on my journey here by stage
over beautiful mountain roads, and in good weather.
Visited the crater and found Madame Pele more in the notion to rage than she had
been for some time although not much fire.
I find a much nicer hotel here than I expected and am much in love with the place.
Being Mr. Lee's guest I intend to take advantage of his hospitality and remain 10
days at least. I have a horse to ride--Lezzie by name, and in company with Mr. Lee's two
daughters have had very pleasant rides over beautiful roads. Yesterday we rode 20 miles-to my sorrow--but intend going again for a short ride today. In all I am much charmed
with this place as I am a lover of nature, and always try to look at the bright side of
things--life is too short to do otherwise.
Mrs. T. Clarke McCombe, San Francisco, Calif., 28 Jan 1897
We made our first trip to the crater this forenoon starting about eight o'clock and
returning in time for lunch. The volcano showed a patch of fire that from the cliff 250
feet above looked about four feet square. The cone in which the fire appeared was
"puffing" regularly throwing out little but sulphur smoke. We could see the bottom of the
pit very plainly and were well repaid for our trip. Had we not heard the wonderful stories
of rivers of lava, fountains of fire, etc. etc. our satisfaction with the sights and sounds of
Kilauea would be complete. Fire or no fire the "volcano trip" is well worth traveling
many miles to enjoy. Peter Lee is all right and runs a first class house.
Wallace R. Farrington, Editor P.C. Advertiser, 1 Feb 1897
I conclude today my second visit to Kilauea, the first having been made on Aug.
10, 1883. The changes since 1883 are great both in the crater and on its brink. Then we
had two lakes of molten lava to visit as well as "the Cauldron," a peep--through the crust-at a cataract of lava between the lakes. Even our path led us across huge clefts in the lava
crust, down which we looked to see the red hot under-lava.
Now all is changed. We see the ruins only of what was the grand home of
Hawaiian mythology. The lake shows only smoke, but we can hear, deep down in the
bottom, the rush of gas which proclaims the fact that the volcano is not quite dead yet.
Clive Davis, 8 Feb 1897
The volcano remains quiescent but the varying intensity of the smoke cloud which
pours forth from its funnel, combined with the sounds arising therefrom indicate only a
temporary rest on its part. Careful measurements with an aneroid give the following
levels. Bottom of crater just below Volcano House 3400 feet. Top of eastern edge of
Halemaumau 3600 feet. Volcano House 3875 feet. The pressure at sea level was probably
somewhat below the normal today which accounts for low elevation given for Volcano
House. Altho' the volcano is quiescent just now, no one with a love for beauty can regret
the trip here, For many miles the stage road passes thro' a splendid wilderness of tropical
growth, among which the multitudinous variety of ferns easily usurps first place. From
the aerial bird's nest fern and towering tree-fern to the delicate woodwardias and ebonystemmed maidenhairs, the observer notices dozens of unknown, dainty fronds, sheltering
their richness of colors beneath huge boulders of volcanic ancestry or drooping banana
leaves. It is wonderful to see such luxuriance hiding the scarce-cold evidences of the lifedestroying element of fire.
Harold S. Channing, Pasadena, Calif., 23 March 1897
The impressive scenery is well set; all corresponds: rare pulu ferns, sandalwood
trees, yawning chasms, and crystallized sulphur openings--with the ever rising vapors,
and ever changing surface of black lava. One who has never stopped in the rush of life
before, can not fail to pause here in wonder at the majesty--the sublimity of the spot.
Mrs. Henry Stockbridge, Baltimore, Maryland, 17 May 1897
Visited crater in party of 15. Madam Pele did her best for us. No fire, but pistol
shots, lava gas hole bursts, etc. Smoke much less than usual which allowed the bottom of
the pit to be seen at times. We were happily disappointed and entirely satisfied with our
volcano trip regardless of the absence of fire. Peter was a dear and Ah Hee a "peach."
Miss G.M. Cooke, 3 Aug 1897
On June 24th there was again a little fire visible. No lake was formed and no
molten lava was seen. The fire was way down in a deep hole or cave in the bottom, and
only the reflection against the sides of the cave could be seen. The fire this time lasted 3
days only. For several months back the smoke has been very dense and voluminous.
J.M. Lee, 24-26 June 1897
Though there has been no fire visible in Halemaumau during the ten days of my
stay at the Volcano House, still I have found much that is interesting to study in the
wonderful natural curiosities of the locality, and take pleasure in recording that my visit
here has been both pleasant and profitable.
Maria Freeman Gray, San Francisco, 16-26 Oct 1897
We arrived at the Volcano House late this afternoon after a long ride in the stage
from Hilo. Visited Halemaumau the following day. Saw no fire but heard every now and
again hissing noises of gas. Also went to Kilauea Iki and was amazed at the place. We
wondered why more is not heard of this magnificent extinct volcano.
Mrs. William Haywood, Miss Charlotte Dodge, Robert W. Shingle, Honolulu, 24 Oct
1897
I saw the smoke, I smelled the sulphur breath of Hades so I am homeward bound
for the ________ grass hills of Washington.
Geo. D. Anderson, 25 Jan 1898
Two months sojourn at the Volcano House gave me time for 13 trips to Kilaueaiki (and the last trip was a lucky one, for I found my watch which was lost!), one trip on
horseback to the smoking pit, another one alone and on foot ditto, four visits to the West
Bluff, four to koa grove and four to koa forest, one to Ainahou, cracks and craters thrown
in, one to the bottom of Keanakakoi; six to sulphur banks, several to fern grove, Devil's
Kitchen, orchard etc., four to Wailiilii, besides several picnics, lunches, dinner; and fourin-hand driving, to say nothing of the delightful hours spent in the cozy old sitting-room
with its fireplace and big green table!
And it all gave me back blessed health. I set out on my way Hilo-ward with a
seven and a half mile tramp in prospect, and the Volcano House and its kind hospitality
and happy hours in retrospect.
Mabel Wing Castle, 27 June 1898
Illustration: Two photographs by Friedlaender, 22 Dec 1896, with features labelled: 1.
View of Halemaumau from Uwekahuna. 2. Lava lake overflowing the banks of the levee.
Page185.
The caption for the first reads:
View from terraces near Uwekahuna, Dec 22nd 1893 showing southwestern portion of
Kiluaea. pr = primary crater, s = secondary crater, a = lava lake, l = grass house.
Direction of view from N towards S.
The caption for the second:
Downbreak of part of the wall that surrounded the lava lake, the gap formed in the night
of 22/23 Dec 1893, the picture was taken one of the following days. The whole secondary
crater was flooded with molten laava, which, however, sooon became covered with crust.
ML = outline of Mauna Loa, p = rim of primary crater, s = view of secondary crater.
Also labelled on this second photograph:
wall, surrounding lava lake
molten lava, formed by overflow througfh the gap, which is visible towards the left; the
lava covered by thin crust.
Dr. Friedlaender, 14 Feb 1898
Illustration: Caricatures of members of the U.S.. Hawaiian Commission, 2 pages, 25 Aug
1898. Pages 187-188.
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Selected Entries From
The Volcano House Register, Volume 5
1898-1908
Concerning Eruptive Activity or Changes in Kilauea and Mauna Loa
Newspaper articles, all located at the front of the book, on pages with no numbers:
Sun and Volcano: Pacific Commercial Advertiser, 27 April 1899.
Eruption and the Earthquake's Work [includes 1868 eyewitness reports, Mud Flow, 1859
and 1881 flows, the stone wall of 1881 flow].
World's Inferno: Wm. T. Brigham's Description of Kilauea. [includes chronology].
Polish Nobleman's Visit to Kilauea 66 Years Ago: Honolulu Advertiser, 28 July 1904.
Eruption a Scene of Indescribable Splendor [Mokuaweoweo], 13 Oct 1903.
Kilauea Shows Signs of Eruption [includes 4 photos; article mostly about Westervelt's
opinion on whether or not eruption imminent]: Pacific Commercial Advertiser, 28 July
1904.
Illustration: Photograph of rim of Halemaumau and smoke in crater, very faded. By page
1.
...The drive from Hilo to Volcano House was simply grand, words cannot be
found to convey to a second person the beauty of the country. Tourists must come and
see for themselves. Our reception at Volcano House from Mrs. & Mr. Waldrof was of the
kindest and they seemed to try and excel each other in making their visitors comfortable,
also giving all the necessary information for their guidance, in sight seeing. But the
grandest sight of all was the crater at the lava lake, it was awe inspiring, and struck me as
another of the wonderful works of the Great Architect of the Universe.
C.G. Conradi, Commanding S.S. "Garonne" of Liverpool, Dec 1898
The Minneapolis Times Excursionists on Dec. 5th to the number of 21 enjoyed
Kilauea. Verdict: Most stupendous natural wonder in the world.
C.J. Blanchard, Excursion Mgr., 5 Dec 1898
Rested here nicely and enjoyed the fire & cool air and leave with regret not to be
able to stay longer.
Paul Isenberg, 6 Dec 1898
"Kilauea" is the greatest wonder in the world....We leave hoping to see you again
soon.
Crew of the U.S.S. Bennington, 14 Dec 1898
We left Hilo, we drove by ferny roads to the Volcano House where Mr. & Mrs.
Waldron gave us a warm welcome and subsequently vied with each other in trying to
make our trip a pleasant one and to help us to see everything in the right way and at the
proper time. The company, the weather, the food and beds were all good and we visited
the Volcano twice where we saw Kilauea breathing gently like a giant asleep refreshing
himself and renewing his energy for the next fierce outburst of passion and boiling rage
which when it comes may we be there to see. Moreover we trod the steep and narrow
way which leadeth to the crater floor of Kilaueaiki from which when returned both skirts
and trousers shewed ample evidence of dangers passed and obstacles overcome....
Henry Joy, M.D., Dublin, Ireland, 17 Dec 1898
In View of Halemaumau. Visited the well-known spot, on the 13th and although
there was not a sign of life in the "House of Ferns," the home of Pele, yet there was
plenty of indication spread about, that several of her attendants were still at work keeping
the concealed pot still boiling. Having a card containing the address of Lieut. Richmond
Payson Hobson U.S.N. "the hero of the Merrimac" I introduced it to a test of fire
somewhat hotter than that to which the "hero" himself had been introduced and it stood
the contact with Pele's power so well that I hold it as a souvenir. The party of which the
undersigned happened to be one, had opportunity given to enjoy one of the pleasantest
trips ever undertaken and accomplished, from Honolulu to the visit to Halemaumau and
return to the Volcano House. At the Volcano House the unusual good surroundings of
excellent weather (then 62) was added to by the welcome and hospitality shown by Mr.
and Mrs. Fred Waldron the genial host and hostess. But the end cometh and to Pele, I say:
Fare thee well, and if for ever still forever fare thee well
I had hoped to interview you, and thus get a point on hell.
Frank Godfrey, Publisher "Illustrated Handbook of Hawaii," 14 Jan 1899
The volcano and surrounding mountains make a wonderful panorama and well
worth the expense of a trip from Honolulu, and for that matter across the ocean. The
crater seems a slumbering hell ready to belch forth its explosive elements at any time and
reminds me of the ancient fabled Grecian legend of the regions of desolation over which
the shades of the dead trooped on their journey to the River Styx--there to be rowed
across by the old boatman Charon to Hades, the land of ghostly shades. The scene
lacking only the silent tideless river to make the resemblance complete.
E. Bieres, Kawatha Kas. Late Col. 171st Regt., 17 Feb 1899
The following entry has been translated from German by Su Reed.
Even though the fiery crater lake of Kilauea is like a beautiful ornament, it should
not detract from the fact that it is one of the great geological curiosities that the earth
crust offers us to see; and can therefore be very interesting to the geologist as well as
wonderful to the tourist.
Kilauea is so different in the kind of activity compared with other volcanoes, that
forever it will be an important source for science to study, and many a geologist will find
here immeasurable material to research and find inspiration.
Dr. K. Futterer, Prof. of Mineralogy & Geology, Germany, 28 Feb 1899
The first visit I have made since the breakdown of 1894--(see p. 120 & 130 of last
record book). [Page 120 = L.A. Thurston's cross section, 21 March 1894. Page 130 = F.S.
Dodge's map, 30 July 1894.]
The diagrams on two pages above given, are practically the same as the outer rim
of the pit of today, as far down as the level of the lake shown at the bottom of page 130,
July 30, 1894. Below this point all is changed. There is no longer any molten lava on fire.
The walls all around the central pit are perpendicular or overhanging.
From the level of the lake as shown by Mr. Dodge (above page 130) downward,
there is a steep debris slope on the N. side for about 300 feet, ending in jagged bluffs, the
base of which are lost in a central well, estimated to be 150' across, the bottom of which
is invisible.
On the south side the perpendicular wall is nearly twice as high as on the north
side, and the debris slope is flattened out at the bottom where it drops into the central
well.
Mr. Waldron, the manager, tells me that on Friday last the 24th a loud noise was
heard from the crater and a great cloud of dust or smoke rose perpendicularly--Upon
descending, the central well shown on opposite page was discovered, there having been
no hole at that point until that time.
The western wall descends almost perpendicularly into the well, and there were
today frequent slides of rock from that wall down into the well.
There are thick volumes of sulphur fumes arising from the central well and from a
horizontal crack on the western wall, about 200 feet from the top.
There is great heat arising from cracks in the floor of the crater on the south and
west of the pit, and distant from 100 to several hundred feet from the pit.
Light brown smoke is also rising from several points on the sides of the main pit.
A heat crack several hundred feet from the pit on the east side, is hot enough to
burn canes inserted. No light is visible however.
The distances given are based on actual measurement, of the north wall by
throwing over a stone tied on a string. The other distances are estimates based on this
measured distance.
L.A. Thurston, 26 March 1899
The dotted line shows line of break in of Mar. 2d 1900 filling the "bottomless
pit." Prior to the filling of the pit a dense cloud of smoke was pouring out of it. It ceased
almost entirely immediately after the slide. The heat crack parallel with and 400 ft distant
from the north wall of Halemaumau has greatly increased in heat since Dec last when I
last saw it. It is sizzling hot a foot back from the edge and shows a cherry red about 20
feet down. This is the first fire seen in the crater since June 24, 1897, (see record of J.M.
Lee) at which time there was a little at the bottom of the pit.
L.A. Thurston, 28 March 1900
Illustration: Cross section of Halemaumau, 26 March 1899, by L.A. Thurston, showing
debris slopes, true and estimated measurements; profiles in March 1900 and June 1901
also pencilled in. Page 7.
Newspaper articles:
The Wonders of Kilauea [travelogue], 25 Feb 1899, page 8.
The Volcano [ April Fool's joke], page 8.
... The Volcano
This place was once a red hot show
But now, alas, most dead
Its prestige as a Volcano
Is "ausgespielt"--Nuff sed.
C.H. Horton, Jr., Boston, Mass., 1 April 1899
Went down into the crater and after rubbernecking around in a thorough manner,
decided that at present Madame Pele was somewhat on the hog. She evidently had not
been making a flash recently but from all indications her abode was at one time a
hellpopping place.
L.M. Whitehouse, Honolulu, 7 May 1899
Chased down into the crater yesterday, reminded me of that dear old lullaby
"Empty is the cradle, baby's gone."
Robert ____, Jr., Honolulu, 8 May 1899
Underneath, someone wrote:
Baby came back July 4/99.
On Kea's peak behold the glistening snow
From Loa see the curling smoke arise
On bending beach the flowers ever blow
In this, earth's rarest fairest paradise.
H.E. Boothby, 9 May 1899
My second visit. First was in Aug. 1897. Crater inactive on both occasions. It is
however more active now than then. The steam in Halemaumau is less dense, and
stronger of sulphur dioxide. The crater all about is very hot, especially on this side where
there are two or three very hot cracks. To the east is also quite a line of steam cracks,
which however emit very little sulphur. Noticed the other day that these cracks are
intermittent, sending forth at times volumes of steam, at others being quite quiescent.
There are behind Halemaumau also several sulphur cracks, which emit steam and sulphur
more copiously than any I've seen.
Made a visit to Kilauea-iki and took several altitudes with an aneroid. The trip is a
very interesting one and well repays one the trouble. I descended the north wall where the
trail ends. The lower part looks much less steep from the top than the upper part, but
when one gets there he finds it is a pretty uniform and steep incline, and much longer
than he expected. The slant is I think about seventy degrees or like this. /. The depth is
750 feet, so that the floor is 380 feet below the edges of Kilauea. The stones, which look
quite small from the top, are quite sizeable boulders and the hummocks are about twenty
feet high. My friend who watched my descent from the top frequently lost sight of me on
the floor. Before my descending several of us made estimates as to the width of the
crater. They ranged from 150-300 ft. I paced it lengthwise and sidewise, and made it out
1600 x 1000 ft. I find by measuring it on Frank Dodge's map, that it is 1800 x 1400 ft.
Ferns and ohia grow on the crater as on Kilauea. The lava is blacker, and covered with
_____. The floor of the crater is hollow, and there is a line all round the cliffs twenty feet
above the edges of the lava, showing a subsidence of that amount. Having examined the
lava, I climbed up the aa flow in the western corner, and was surprised to come to a lava
lake, some 250 ft. long by 50-100 feet wide and 160 ft. above the crater floor. The flow
which came from those _____ on the south-west wall, except a small part that went
directly down, filled up this lake before touching Kilauea-iki, so that the flow must have
been much more extensive than appears from the top. I walked to the other end of the
lake, and up another small flow which I found there, and came upon a ridge fifty feet
above the lake and on the other side, ______ feet lower, another lake about 100 feet in
diameter. Here I found some luscious ohelos. This lake had been filled by a sort of an
overflow of lava, from the flow of 1832 which flooded the whole plateau between the
two craters. It came down the south wall, ran onto the ridge, part flowing into the small
lake, and some down to the big lake. I climbed up this flow. It was a hard climb for the
lava principally aa was very friable. The height was 300 feet, or 510 feet above Kilaueaiki. Thence I followed the flow directly to the edge of Kilauea where it ran over in a
cascade. This point was 530 feet above Kilauea -iki, or 150 above Kilauea. A lava
cascade 150 ft. high must have been quite a sight. Thence I followed the ridge to the end,
and struck across to the bridle path back to the Volcano House,. I found, by my aneroid,
when I returned, that in some unaccountable manner, the Volcano House had, during my
absence, risen twenty feet. This piece of tom-foolery on the part of Dame Nature while
my back was turned, I'm wholly at a loss to account for.
For the benefit of those who wish to know I'll give a summary of my results:
Depth of Kilauea-iki below north bank, 750 ft.
Depth of Kilauea-iki below Kilauea, 380 ft.
Dimensions of Kilauea-iki 1800 x 1400 ft.
Height of hummocks 15-20 ft.
Height of first lava lake above Kilauea-iki 160 ft.
Dimensions (estimated) 250 x 50 to 100 ft.
Height of second lava lake above Kilauea-iki 200 ft.
Height of fissure & lava cones above Kilauea-iki, 250 ft (partly estimated)
Mean height of plateau above Kilauea-iki 540 ft.
Mean height of plateau above Kilauea 160 ft.
Height of lava cascade of 1832 150 ft.
Top of north bank of Kilauea-iki below Volcano H. 120 ft.
Kilauea-iki below Vol. H. 870 ft.
Other measurements:
Floor of Kilauea (edges) below Vol. H. 480 ft.
Halemaumau, edges, above edges of crater 280 ft.
The western bluff is the highest and its height is 550 ft.
The barometer here seems exceedingly steady to one used to the variations of a
New England climate. During our stay (10 days) the extreme variations have not
exceeded .2 inches. We have had all kinds of weather from the clearest of the clear to the
foggiest of the foggy.
M.C. Mott-Smith, 24 June 1899
Visited crater this morning. Madame Pele is not so young as she used to be.
Mrs. O'Connor, Woodland, Cal., 2 July 1899
The summit crater Mokuaweoweo is active again. The reflection was noticed at
about 4 o'clock this morning.
Mokuaweoweo was last active from Apr. 21 to May 6 1896. Kilauea smoking
about the same as for 3 months past.
F. Waldron, Mng K.V.H.Co., 4 July 1899
Underneath, someone wrote:
Pau July 23/99
Illustration: Pencil drawing, 1899, of Kilauea, Volcano House, Mauna Loa, and smoke
rising from Mauna Loa, titled, "The spouts of July 4th." Page 16.
Returned to view eruption of Mokuaweoweo.
Chas. A. Gibson, Capt. Wm. Matson, Millie D. Gibson, 10 July 1899
The question is, "How can one record his impressions" with about one drop of ink
in the ink-well. It would take a barrel to half describe mine.
Albert Ross, 14 July 1899
Mauna Loa burst forth in eruption July 4 '99 at an elevation of 11,500 feet.
At 7 a.m. July 10 a party of 30 people started for the scene of disturbance and on
the 13th two days later ten of the party reached the active cone, several reached a point of
view 2 miles away and some of the party failed to get a view at all. Those who reached
the summit were Mr. Pratt (Real Estate agt.), Henry Eaton...and Joe Flores the native
guide. Returned to Volcano House Thursday even., having made the round trip in 4 days.
This was the first party to reach the scenes of activity.
Pratt party, 14 July 1899
Newspaper articles:
Mokuaweoweo Is Active, 1899, page 18.
Pele's Coppers Are Hot; Lava from Mokuaweoweo Is Hot Stuff [discusses past eruptions
as well as present one], page 18.
Flow Still On [Mauna Loa], 8 July 1899, page 19.
Lava Rivers Flow [Mokuaweoweo], pages 19-20.
How They Got There [Mauna Loa and Mokuaweoweo eruption; describes excursion of a
party to the site], 14 July 1899, pages 21-22.
[Sketch and caption of Mauna Loa eruption], 16 July 1899, page 23.
[Map of present lava flows on Mauna Loa, by W.R. Castle], page 23.
Though not descending to the floor or bed of Kilauea, yet it appears to me that an
eruption is near at hand. Heat has visibly increased; the volume of smoke is denser and
there are other signs of approaching action. The boys who have been down say that heat
is almost unendurable, especially in the caves. If Kilauea is not now dying, it must soon
revive and Pele again assert her undisputed sway.
On July 14, the following party left the Volcano House for the head of the 1899
eruption of Mauna Loa. Camped at edge of 1881 flow, altitude 5900 feet. Reached
summit 6 p.m. Saturday and spent night. (full a/c & impression in P.C.A. of July 1899).
Alt. 10800 feet. Returned here 2:30 p.m. Monday.
W.R. Castle, 18 July 1899
The above party left the Volcano House at 8:30 a.m. Thursday morning July 21
enroute to the crater. Instead of following the long trail through the koa grove and up the
flow of 1881, they travelled directly towards the crater. After 9 hours continuous riding,
camp was made near the Red Hills. After a short rest for supper, the horses were securely
fastened and the toilsome foot journey over pahoehoe and aa was made by moonlight. It
required four hours to travel this part, and not until 10 o'clock was the party standing at
the edge of the crater, and flow.
The sight was grand. Words were utterly insufficient. The lava red hot came
pouring over a precipice, into the channel below. We estimated the width at 30 feet, depth
15, speed, 20 miles per hour.
Naming the Crater.
After a restless night spent on the hot lava we arose at daybreak and after a light
breakfast we unfurled two American flags, each bearing the inscription "The Wilson
Party deposited this flag and christened this cone Admiral Dewey on July 22 1899." The
flags were placed in position by Chas. Egan and Harold Dillingham. Fred A. Jacobs
announced that hereafter the crater would be known as "Admiral Dewey."...
Wilson Party, 23 July 1899
Illustrations:
Large photograph of crater floored by pahoehoe in foreground. Page 26.
Two large photographs: 1. Crater floored with pahoehoe. 2. Pahoehoe with Mauna Kea
in background. Page 27.
...The Volcano House under the management of Mr. W. and care of his excellent
partner is worthy of a visit even if Madame Pele is only doing her cooking with gas
instead of fire.
John M. Vivas, 6 Aug 1899
First visit in 1870. Plenty of fire.
Second in 1878. Plenty of fire.
Third in 1900. No fire.
It appears to me as if the bottom of Halemaumau has fallen out. Great volumes of
smoke continue to rise and the appearance is promising for a return of fire. May Madame
Pele return to her home, never to leave.
Kilauea is derived from the three roots-Ki-Lau-Ea
Ki is to shoot.
Lau with a great noise.
Ea is gas.
James W. Girvin, 5 May 1900
...On this my third visit the volcano was not active; nothing but steam can be seen.
I find the sulphur bath very refreshing. The change of climate and quiet and rest that can
be obtained at this retreat will well repay a visit to this wonderful spot.
Jas. Steiner, Honolulu, Third time, 15 May 1900
I left Kilauea without making a record of my visit, which I intended making. Will
you kindly write in the record book the following under date of June 19, 1900. This is my
twentieth visit to Kilauea during the past 40 years, but I find it dormant, with no sign of
fire, but abundance of smoke and steam, as it has been doing the past four or five years. It
would seem as though Kilauea was becoming less active of late years, and may continue
so, though she has her spells of activity, and may resume action again, when she chooses
to do so. The outbreaks on Mauna Loa (which is a separate volcano) are now more
frequent, but of shorter duration.
H.M. Whitney, 19 June 1900, on letter head of Hilo Hotel
Visited the crater on 14 September and found relative altitudes of crater bed with
barometer to be as shown in above sketch. The sulphur smoke from Halemaumau was so
dense that it was impossible to see the bottom of the pit, though hissing sizzling sounds
were heard after throwing pieces of rock into the pit, similar to the sounds from the
dissolving of Seidlitz powders in water, which proved the existence of a molten liquid
mass at the bottom, most of whose surface must be covered with float caving in from the
surrounding perpendicular walls.
The stratified formation (S.R.) on north and west, seems to have no relation to the
black gray lava (BGL) in the crater pit, and is of distinct and separate origin.
M.M. O'Shaughenessy, President, California Society of Civil Engineers, 14 Sept 1900
Illustration: Cross section of Halemaumau, 14 Sept 1900, by M.M. O'Shaughenessy,
showing molten lava, and Black Gray Lava of pit as differing from Stratified Formation
of rocks in cliffs below Volcano House. Page 47.
Well entirely clear save a little steam rising from under a small ledge on east side.
R.D. Silliman, Honolulu, 22 Dec 1900
After a good breakfast we started for the volcano, returned shortly after 12, in
those three hours we saw some grand sights, which we will not forget in a lifetime. The
ferns and grasses growing on some parts of the crater, while other parts are still hot and
smoking, furnishes a lesson in which there is much food for thought. It is a process of
nature which makes one realize the presence of a Supreme Being.
Mr. and Mrs. Bush, 4 Jan 1901
How disappointing is the change we see
Within the crater once sublimely grand
Before, a flaming seething molten sea
Now, lava, black and cracked on every hand....
J. Alfred Magoon, 15 Jan 1901
One of our chiefest delicacies were "fried postal cards" prepared at the edge of the
remains of Halemaumau. When properly cooked they were sent to admiring friends the
world over....
S.C. Miller, 2 March 1901
On the evening of Thursday, June 27, we made a moonlight trip to the crater. It
was an experience never to be forgotten, for besides the beauty and the grandeur, we saw
deep into the depths of one of the cracks where was what seemed to be a bed of glowing
lava--a somewhat unusual sight.
Mary Elizabeth Lewis, Springfield Ohio, 27 June 1901
Night excursions into the crater are once more becoming frequent, although the
exhibition is more in the nature of promise than performance. There is a small crack,
about a foot wide, on this side of Halemaumau, the sides of which are cherry red up to
within a couple of feet of the surface. Sticks and handkerchiefs ignite readily from the
heat. Many other cracks emit considerable heat, but there is no other fire visible. We
descended by a wooden ladder into the "Hot Cave," where we estimated the temperature
at about 110 degrees F. The bottom of Halemaumau was invisible on account of the white
steam, but the sound of lava breaking and falling from the sides of the cliff was distinctly
audible.
Sidney Miller Ballou, Honolulu, 21 July 1901
Have just returned from a trip to the crater of Kilauea with but slight fatigue. No
pen picture nor word portraiture can adequately convey to the human mind, the faintest
conception of this awfully grand and terrible work of nature's action. It must be seen, not
for a moment, but for hours must one remain--yea, for days and a second and third visit
should be made to fully grasp the majesty of this wonderful panorama....
J. Lewis Crew, Philadelphia, 26 Sept 1901
Visited the Volcano Hotel and the crater which at the time was partially in action.
The spectacle was one long to be remembered.
Rev. Eugene Magevny, Chicago, 12 Nov 1901
The outline and profile of the Halemaumau pit as it was March 2 1900 is
practically the same now.
There is very little sulphur vapor rising, and that from two spots from the N. and
E. sides about halfway up the debris slope. The bottom of the pit can be seen most of the
time.
There is a clearly defined recent flow of black lava at the extreme bottom of the
pit the first in several years.
The heat crack on the north of the pit is hotter than when I was last here, and
extends further north than then. It is cherry-red at night.
L.A. Thurston, 14 Feb 1902
Madame Pele fooled us by keeping within her fiery caverns.
Thos. C. Ridgway, 1 April 1902
There is less vapor and steam arising from Halemaumau pit than in August 1901
but the heat crack has lengthened and is considerably hotter.
Visited extinct craters Pumilaula and Makaopuhi. Some steam was arising from
crater of the latter and from a crack about 100 feet from west edge of crater on top.
Alonzo Gardner, Honolulu, third visit, 2 April 1902
Pages 73-74 have been removed from the Register.
The outbursts recorded by "Mine Host" on the preceding page were phoned in to
the Hilo Hotel Sunday p.m. And about the same time Mrs. Campbell on the Puna
Plantation phoned to her husband at the hotel that the Hot Springs at Puna were disturbed
and steam was coming from the cracks. I at once arranged to leave Hilo by the first train
Monday morning. Arrived here about noon in a fog and mist. Visited the crater that
afternoon but heard nothing and saw only heavy white clouds of sulphurous smoke.
Could not approach close on account of the fumes. Tuesday morning visited crater and
had same trouble with sulphur fumes, wind blowing as before towards the Volcano
House. However, heard lots of rocks falling into the pit and a queer, rushing, swishing
noise which I did not understand. Tuesday night about 10 o'clock was wakened by Mrs.
Waldron and for about an hour and a half watched a glowing over Halemaumau both
from the upper rooms at the house and later from the observation point on the bluff.
There were successive periods of brilliancy in the glowing at about 10 or 15 minute
intervals. A mist was gathering and about 11:30 settled in so as to entirely hide all
phenomena. At the same time two others visited the pit and reported a breakout of lava
on the Kau side as recorded by Mr. Waldron.
Every night since the same evidences of fire have been observed.
Thursday night I got close to the pit's edge for the first time, a northeast wind then
carrying the smoke and fumes away. Saw the glowing distinctly and could locate it as
coming from a puka some distance down the Kau side. Several times I saw the edges of
the puka clearly defined against the bright glow of the lava. The hole seemed to me to be
about 30 feet wide. At this time I again heard the queer swishing noise referred to above.
It was evidently the molten lava flowing down into the pit and rushing about in the
connecting cracks and channels. I cannot adequately describe the awe-inspiring
impressiveness of that noise, rising to my ears from the depths below which except for
the very small portion of the puka lighted by the glow, were entirely hidden from us by
the thick sulphurous clouds of smoke. The obscurity and mystery added to the feeling of
awe of that mighty force thus displaying itself 1200 or 1500 feet below us.
Have been to the pit every night since and observed these phenomena. Saturday
morning I was at the pit on the Kau side, the smoke being carried away by a northeast
wind. Just as I arrived the pit was nearly clear of smoke and the whole of it was visible,
except at the very bottom, where, from the puka on the Kau side, black smoke was
coming in steadily increasing volume and like smoke was issuing from a crack or hole on
the bottom and on the further side.
The protecting bench that formerly stood in front of my point of observation on
the rim at the Kau side (and which we had ______ on former days and evenings by
throwing stones on it) had evidently caved in, for the fall was sheer and fresh debris
covered the ____.
Just beyond this slide and for an apparent distance of ____ from the bottom of
100 feet I saw a lot of rough lava ______ yellow with heavy sulphur deposits. I could see
no lava, but again I heard the noise of its rushing and beating against the sides of the
hidden cracks and channels, and apparently with greater frequency and volume of noise
than before.
Saturday night the glow seemed brighter than ever before and maintained a more
uniform brilliancy--or at least the climaxes of brightness were more frequent and lasting.
The hot cracks, one close to the trail about halfway beyond the corral and the
other much farther to the left have become unusually hot during the last few days and at
night they show a vivid light, apparently only a few feet below the surface.
I wish to record also my appreciation of the courtesy, thoughtfulness and ability
of mine host and hostess, of the good things we have to eat and the clear and exhilarating
mountain air we have been filling our lungs with, of the sweet singing of the birds, and of
the beautiful flowers that fill the garden....
Herbert S. Griggs, Tacoma, Washington, 8 June 1902
Illustration: Photo of Halemaumau smoking in the distance, 1 June 1902. Page 76.
There has been no change in the outer rim of the pit since I was here on Feb 14
last.
There is a change near the bottom of the pit--the debris slopes on the south side
having subsided to such an extent as to indicate that there has been a further drop at the
center of the pit into which they have fallen.
There are dense columns of white sulphur vapor arising from the extreme bottom
of the pit and from a point halfway up the south bank. This vapor so fills the pit that
during a great portion of the time nothing can be seen.
At a point on the east bank of the pit and about 200 feet from the bottom, a bright
light was seen--evidently molten lava in a cave. There was no running lava, and the black
flow which I saw at the bottom on Feb 14 was entirely covered with debris which had
fallen from the walls.
I looked for the ashes or red dust said to have been ejected on the 2nd; but found
none. Whatever there was must have been very small in quantity, and was probably
simply dust caused by the collapse of the debris slopes on the south side, as any fall of
rock of this character is usually accompanied by more or less dust.
The action in the pit indicates the return of the normal activity of Halemaumau
and the beginning of the filling of the pit.
The heat cracks north of the pit are in about the same state as February last. They
are rosy red at night to within 6 or 8 inches of the surface.
I made the circuit of the crater on the outer rim, visiting Keanakakoi, and coming
out through the woods onto the Keauhou road. The steam is still rising from the big
cracks running from the crater toward Kau, although the cracks have been nearly filled
with the drift sand and pumice stone. Except as above indicated, I noticed no unusual
conditions about the crater.
L.A. Thurston, 12 June 1902
Newspaper articles:
Eruption Long and Extensive, page 79.
Volcanos Are Not Explosive [includes Prof. Lyons explaining why volcanos erupt],
pages 79-80.
Prof. Kellogg Sees New Fires in Crater, page 81.
After a smooth trip via Hilo from Honolulu we reached the Volcano House where
we spent a week, during which time we made a trip to the crater by day and one by night-both of which were interesting. At night the cracks burned a fiery red and we amused
ourselves cooking eggs, baking bananas and burning sticks. We went into the hot cone
and felt the heat of 130 degrees, and charmed by the interesting wonders and moonlight,
almost forgot to come back--so, much to our surprise when we were coming through the
moonlit forest of ferns we met a search party--fearful that the edge had caved in and that
we were no more.
The relief of the host and hostess (Mr. and Mrs. Waldron) at our return, was
shown in a very charming midnight repast and a hot crackling wood fire....
Mrs. Edith Maling, 19 June 1902
The first trip of an automobile from Hilo to Volcano House made by Mr. and Mrs.
A. James this day with the White Steam Carriage. Running time from Hilo three hours,
over some of the worst roads possible to find anywhere, the result of the first Hawaiian
legislature.
A. James, 12 July 1902
Monday, August 25 at 10 p.m. a bright glow was observed over Halemaumau, on
going over it was found that a lake had formed at the extreme bottom near the base of the
wall on the Kau side, this lake is now about 400 feet in diameter somewhat in this shape.
[Here he has drawn a shape like a cat food dish.]
F. Waldron, 25 August 1902
Newspaper article: Halemaumau Gets Down to Business, 29 Aug 1902, page 87.
Illustrations:
Madame Pele on the Night of Aug 30th 1902; Continuous Performance (a perspective
drawing by T.C. Ridgway, with molten lava in the bottom of the pit colored red. Ping
pong and automobile on same page. Page 88.
Full-page map and cross section of Halemaumau, 29 Aug 1902, by E.D. Baldwin, 500 ft
= 1 inch, includes Hot Cracks, Blowholes, Little Beggar, dotted line to show former
extent of pit in Aug 1892, and molten lava colored red. Page 89.
The new lake at the bottom of the pit has subsided, leaving a black ledge at an
estimated height of 100-150 feet above the present bottom of the pit. From the ledge
down to the bottom the pit is black with new lava. There is a sulphur steam jet on the
west side of the pit forming a bright yellow deposit just above the level of the new lava.
There is no other steam or vapor rising from any part of the pit above the new lava.
There is a very little vapor coming from the extreme bottom of the pit, under the
bank, on the North side.
There is no fire visible in the day time, but the guide and tourists down last night
and this evening say that they saw hot cracks at three places in the pit.
The heat cracks on the North side of the pit, outside, are as hot as usual.
L.A. Thurston, 12 Sept 1902
There was a heavy break down of the western wall of the pit yesterday afternoon,
sending up a great cloud of reddish vapor.
L.A. Thurston,13 Sept 1902
Second visit to Volcano House and the crater of Kilauea.
The above all thought that Madam Pele was unkind to hide her fire on our visit;
after travelling all the way from Honolulu to see her.
T.A. Hays, 13 Sept 1902
The above party left this a.m. very much disgusted at not seeing the volcano
active. At four p.m. Mr. Waldron kindly telephoned Mr. J.L. Robertson at his home in
Olaa--and we all returned--for we were told that the lake had broken out again. To say
that we were surprised--would be putting it mildly--and the sight we saw was simply
magnificent, sublime, grand; words cannot describe the action of the crater.
T.A. Hays, 14 Sept 1902
The trip to this place has been very satisfactory as the weather has been good, the
hotel very comfortable and we have seen most of the phenomena of volcanic action even
though the lake at the bottom of Halemaumau is now small. On the night of the 15th there
were a number of fire fountains and the hardened crust broke and dissolved while the
lava flows were large enough to show the manner of action. The views by day, of the
former lava flows are very interesting and, in every way we have been repaid.
Thomas M. Chatard, 17 Sept 1902
Arrived at Volcano House 11:30 a.m. Oct 11th. Explored sulphur banks between
lunch and dinner time. Left the Hotel for Halemaumau after dinner arriving there at 7:00
p.m. Upon our arrival there was practically no fire to be seen but there was a great hissing
noise from the blow hole at the N.W. corner of the crater. At 7:15 we noticed this blow
hole begin to grow brighter looking like a small star for a short time when suddenly it
began to belch forth molten lava with spurts at intervals of perhaps 1 second each
throwing lava to a height of perhaps 50 to 75 feet while all the time the molten lava
poured forth like the molten iron from a furnace in an iron foundry. We watched this
magnificent sight (words cannot describe it) for two hours, during which time the lava
flowed from the cone at one side clear across the small lake. On the 12th we again visited
the crater but this time in daylight. On first arriving the cone was throwing out lava at
intervals of perhaps half a minute with none flowing between the intervals. The lake
showed that the lava had run all over the old lava but showed red hot only at one place.
While we were watching it suddenly this red spot became white and the whole lake broke
up making at once a splendid and an awful sight. We watched it at intervals from four till
six fifteen at which time the blowhole was almost entirely closed but the lava lake was
beautiful showing red cracks all over the surface varying from red at the cracks to black
in the centers of the inclosed sections of lava.
Madame Pele certainly "did herself proud" for us and we have thoroughly enjoyed
the trip.
W.E. Skinner, Honolulu, 13 Oct 1902
On Monday, Oct. 20 the pit of Halemaumau was visited, but almost no signs of
activity could be noted. The lava floor produced by eruption noted p. 93 was plainly
visible. Near the north edge of that floor a spatter mound, perhaps 12 feet high, exhibited
two small glowing spots but there were no explosions and only a subdued indefinite
sound came from below. Sulphurous fumes rose quietly and constantly.
On Tuesday, Oct. 21 Halemaumau was again visited in company with Messrs.
Waldron, E.D. Baldwin and Bryan. The latter two measured with tape line the distance
between two parallel tangents to the rim of the crater and thus determined the diameter of
the crater as about 1500 feet in general N-S direction. By depression angles taken with
clinometer compass from points on the N and S rims, I estimate the depth of the lava
floor at about 825 feet and its N-S diameter at 550-600 feet. A general profile section
expressing these data is given below. [Here he has drawn a cross section.] The blow hole
or spatter mound is near a cliff on the N. edge of floor and cannot be seen from N. edge
of crater. A similar cliff is below the shelter house.
There was no increase in activity today.
Thursday Oct. 23 I again visited Halemaumau, in p.m. The lava floor and blow
hole appeared as before but there was a sound of escaping gas from the blow hole. This
was comparable to the sharp puffs of a locomotive getting a heavy train under headway
but irregular and often very strenuous. About 3 p.m. a portion of the top of the spatter
cone was blown off. Following this the sound was distinctly caused by the thrashing or
surging of the boiling lava which was rising. At almost every throb splashes of lava were
thrown out of the orifice and the spatter cone grew rapidly. At 3:35 the whole NW side of
the mound was broken down and a torrent of lava burst out like water from a pipe. The
flow was steady, with occasional spurts throwing small masses a few feet into the air.
The lava seemed perfectly liquid and red hot as it poured out, but it became dull
red and then apparently black, as a crust formed, at less than 50 feet from orifice. This
flow spread out in the usual way, and I could see all the characteristic flow forms seen in
the floor of the Kilauea crater.
At 5 o'clock the lava floor was about half covered with the new flow.
By seven o'clock a visiting party found the new lava had completely covered the
floor, and lava was still gushing out. Soon after that it decreased in volume, then ceased
to flow and built up a new spatter cone which had only a small orifice when I returned at
9 o'clock. Jets of lava were occasionally blown out through this hole and the state of
activity at this vent was almost exactly as it had been before the outflow began.
The new lava lake exhibited, during this evening, the common phenomena, so
often described. Cracks formed in the dull crust, lava pushed out in sheets or tongues;
plates of the crust turned up and sank in the molten lake beneath. The illumination was
often brilliant and all the conditions combined to make the scene grand and aweinspiring.
On Oct. 24 there was no flow; the floor was so solidified that fracturing and
extrusion of lava was rare and of small extent. At the blow hole there was frequently
repeated the process of sealing up the orifice by viscous matter, then a bursting out
making a new hole which would be sealed up again in an hour or two.
On the 25th of Oct. no one went to the crater as it was supposed that some days
would elapse before another flow would occur. In the evening the strong glow over the
pit indicated some action and on visiting the crater on the 26th it was found that another
thin flow had been spread over the sheet of the 23rd. The spatter cone remained on the N
side and no other vent could be seen. The action at the spatter cone was that of sealing up
and bursting again, but with no flow.
On the 27th just before daylight a bright glow over the crater was noted, and I
found on going over that another thin flow had been added to the whole floor.
The three flows here recorded have built up the lava floor of Halemaumau for
several feet,--perhaps as much as 25 feet. The process of filling the deep pit is well under
way, in the manner repeatedly observed at this center, and unless relief is found by
outbreaks at some lower level--as has often been the case in the past--a long series of
eruptions similar to those noted may be looked for.
Whitman Cross, Notes of week 20-27 Oct 1902
Page 93 does not note lava floor.
Illustration: Pencil cross section of Halemaumau, Oct 1902, by Whitman Cross, showing
depth and widths. Page94.
Arrived at Volcano House 11:30 a.m. had lunch, then went down to crater. Saw
two bright holes in cone with dozens of fine holes showing fire. Went over to Madame
Peles cave and Kitchen. Very hot place, scorched cards over the hot cracks. Saturday
went around crater on right side to back side of crater and came across bed of lava to the
crater. Struck some very hot ashes and had to retrace out steps to cooler ground. Ashes
very hot and soft. We thought we were done for this world for a few minutes. We saw
another large cave on back side of crater. Madame Peles reception room. We came
around to crater at 12:20, lava had slid off at top and ashes and boulders were scattered
around cone on the lake. No fire to be seen.
Sunday took walk to Kilauea Iki. Very nice walk and grand sight. Monday took
horses and went to Mockopui 10 miles. Saw seven craters two quite large and grand.
Well worth the trip. The prettiest crater of them all is Mockopui 1500 ft. deep. Will make
a trip to crater tonight and see it for the last time. Leave for Puunene Maui via Honoaupo
5 a.m.
Walter L. Irven, Puunene, Maui, 30 Oct 1902
On the eighth of November, 1902, we the undersigned undertook a hazardous
journey to the famous volcano of Kilauea and glad we are that we did so. We arrived
safely in the pouring rain and were welcomed by the proprietor of the Volcano House, the
proprietess being in the kitchen, as the cook had taken "French leave" the night before.
We played the role of the "Merry Irish" who grin and bear things, and our virtue had its
one reward, for the first mealwe had at the Volcano House was delicious and worthy of a
French chef.
In the afternoon we gracefully mounted our noble steeds who bore such names as
"Admiral Beckley," "Napoleon Bonaparte," "Charley," etc., and betook ourselves, with
the assistance of a guide, to the crater of Halemaumau.
We thought we had seen Halemaumau. Indeed, the rough trip we had taken
yesterday, made us sufficiently lame to remind us of it and although we saw a small fire
in the bottom of an awe-inspiring pit 800 feet lower than the place where we stood, we
were not disappointed then, but, with the aid of a vivid imagination, we could easily see a
connection between the wonderfully colored paintings we had seen, and descriptions we
had read of it.
This morning all was changed--at four o'clock our genial host--Mr. Waldron-aroused us to behold a bright sky in the direction of the crater and we could easily see
that something extraordinary was taking place. Quickly, the horses were saddled and the
new folks of our party began a race against sunrise to Halemaumau. Down the path at
almost breakneck speed, so full of excitement as to have an utter disregard for danger. On
we sped, holding to the pommels of our saddles for dear life in the darkness, as our
horses, also being excited, galloped madly down ________ trail, making alarming turns
at most unexpected ______ and only a tight grip on our saddles saved us from a severe
fall. When we reached the lava bed of Kilauea the ride was easier, although hardly softer
on account of the danger of the horses slipping, and truly there are softer things to fall on
than hard lava.
Those behind could see the bright sparks from the shod hoofs of the horses
striking, as we could not help but observe the beauty of the starlit early morning sky and
also at the same time _________ faint light beginning to appear on the eastern horizon
which urged us on the faster in order to get to the crater before daylight.
After reaching the corral and tying our horses, we commenced a run to the edge of
Halemaumau and there saw what our words are too poor to attempt to describe.
The whole bottom of the immense crater was one lake of fire, with a great
fountain off to one side, pouring out a tremendous stream of molten lava which had
already filled the pit to the extent of some forty feet during the course of the night.
Huge waves of fiery red liquid surged back and forth on all sides, like waves on
the seashore.
Gazing on this wonderful sight, one cannot help but realize the poverty of
paintings, compared with the volcano itself, in color, the poverty of words in description
and we are inspired with the most exalted ideas of the magnitude of the works of the
Divine Creator.
The ladies joined the first party by daybreak and as the activity had not subsided
in the least degree, they too saw a sight such as we never expect to see again.
We are informed that we are so fortunate as to have seen the grandest exhibition
of this whole year's eruption.
Later our party of nine went to Kilauea Iki, the fern forest and to the sulfur beds
all of which were thoroughly enjoyed. It is with deep regret that we leave this spot, which
is so beautiful, so grand, so magnificent--in short indescribable.
Mrs. M.E. Clark, Portland, Maine, 9 Nov 1902
Notes on condition of crater for week ending Thursday Nov 13.
Friday 7 Cone spitting fire only, no flow
Saturday 8-9 " "
"
"
Monday 10 This morning at 2 o'clock fountain commenced to play
Tuesday 11 Today the action stronger than it has been during the present outburst. Cone
blown to pieces and a geyser spouting fire 20 feet high and about as many wide, forming
a lake from bank to bank of liquid lava, which I would judge to be about 600 feet across.
This action continued all day and night.
Wednesday and Thursday 12 and 13 The action continues as strong as ever building up a
a lava lake very rapidly.
F. Waldron, 13 Nov 1902
The sketch shows Kilauea with its smoking carater. The drawing below the sketch
shows the floor plan of Helemaumau as it appeared to
A.M. Merrill, 27 Dec 1902
Illustrations:
1. Kilauea with Halemaumau smoking, and people on the trail towards the pit, with
Mauna Loa in the background
2. Floor Plan of Halemaumau, 27 Dec 1902; nothing identified. Page 101.
Find Halemaumau practically the same as in 1894 except for a filling up by fresh
lava inflowing about 300 feet. Should judge present depth to be 750 to 800 feet. Steam
from cracks about crater appears to have increased in volume. Intense heat both in crater
and nearby is a feature worth observing.
The time has come when the U.S. Govt. might well reserve the whole region from
Mokuaweoweo to the sea, at Honolulu in Puna, a long narrow strip to include Kilauea
and the line of pit craters to the sea; a comparatively worthless tract of country
commercially. It should also include the koa tree molds at Kuapuawela, where a forest of
giant trees were surrounded by a deep flow. Now the decomposed upper crust is covered
with a koa forest of great age. Q. as to time of flow.
W.R. Castle, 21 Jan 1903
On way to Hilo. Creater smoking.
C.F.H. Siemsen, Honolulu, 25 Jan 1903
It would be an idle and futile task for one to portray the awful and majestic
grandeur of the seemingly bottomless chasm of Halemaumau.
E.A. Douthitt, 26 Jan 1903
Although Halemaumau is not active, it is certainly one of the most wonderful and
awe-inspiring sights I have ever seen.
Edith Alden Douthitt, 26 Jan 1903
The view by coach from railroad terminus to Volcano House is a masterpiece of
nature. Having been favored with a fine clear afternoon and evening to look the crater
and pit over it strikes me as a most stupendous and inspiring sight and judging from the
amount of sulphur and fire do not hesitate to conclude that the devil is at the bottom of it
all....
C.S. Rulgnay, 9 March 1903
The unanimous opinion of the 17 who visited the volcano under the leadership of
Mr. Albert Waterhouse, leaving Honolulu March 3, stopping at the Volcano House from
March 6 to March 11 1903.
No trip to the Paradise of the Pacific is complete without a visit to Kilauea. Any
unpleasant memories of the sea are forgotten as you behold the wondrous beauty of this
mysterious place. Honolulu is interesting, at Hilo you catch a glimpse of real native life,
but at the Volcano you receive a lasting impression of the wonderful works of nature.
The road from Hilo winds through the most luxuriant tropical vegetation; the
banana, palm, and tree fern form a canopy of beauty which makes you think you are in
fairyland, but however much you may have enjoyed these you cannot but be impressed
with the awful grandeur of the volcano. One stands in awe as he beholds the mighty
forces of nature at work and realizes more fully than ever before the wonderful things
that God hath wrought.
We suggest as long a stay as possible as the grandeur of the place grows upon
you. Our visit of five days was all too short.
No mention of Kilauea would be complete without including our good host Mr.
St. Clair Bidgood, Mgr. of the Volcano House, who left nothing undone which could add
to our enjoyment.
Waterhouse party, 11 March 1903
Newspaper article: Volcano Fire Is Blazing: Hawaiian Star, 13 March 1903, page 108.
We have spent four days at the Volcano House, and in spite of unfavourable
weather, have thoroughly enjoyed our visit. I take this opportunity of thanking Mr.
Bidgood...Kilauea is most wonderful and awe-inspiring, and well worth coming a long
journey to see. As one gazes on these stupendous works of God, one feels overwhelmed
at the evidence of His power & the words rise to one's lips, "What is man, that Thou art
mindful of him."
M.L. Birney, 12 March 1903
Is it worthwhile to visit the volcano when it is inactive? I wonder what the people
who ask this question expect. Unless Madam Pele consents to give a display for their
especial benefit they malign her. But is it nothing to stand upon what was once--and no
long time ago--a lake of molten lava, to see the steam pouring from hundreds of holes
and crannies, to smell the fumes of sulphur and to see hundreds of feet below one's feet
that blinking eye of fire--a mere glowing point indeed, but in that point are centered the
seeds of nature's mightiest convulsions ready to burst at any time into such violent
eruption as shall fill the huge basin from end to end with glowing fire. Those whom such
sights attract would gladly make a weary journey with such an end in view. How much
rather when on the sea they have the varying scenery of the islands, their great mountains
vying with the Alps in height, and clothed even in this warm climate with frequent snow,
while after the interests of Hilo there is the magnificent journey through the dense forests
whose commonest trees are great branching ferns and finally a comfortable hotel within
easy reach of Kilauea, kept by the most accommodating of hosts. If any fault can be
found, it is in the absence of information about the history of the volcano and the native
legends in which the Fire Goddess played so prominent a part. A book which would
supply this want, and which would give some detailed information about expeditions and
places of interest in the neighborhood would be a very great acquisition to visitors at this
wonderful scene.
A.W. Davies, 12 March 1903
We wouldn't have missed it for twice the money.
N. John Simonds, Kansas City, Mo., 19 March 1903
Notwithstanding adverse weather and the inactivity of Halemaumau, we of the
third Ten Days Excursion organized by Richard H. Trent have heartily enjoyed our five
days on the mountain. Not less attractive than the trip across the lava beds to the smoking
crater are the many pleasant drives and walks in the surrounding country, such as to the
fern tree forest, the primeval koa forest, and to the extinct crater of Kilauea Iki....
Kerr party, 31 March 1903
I have spent two days here with a party of Raymond & Whitcomb tourists which
we have all enjoyed. The weather has been delightful and this morning Mauna Loa was
covered with snow. The sun light on it was beautiful. We took a trip to the crater in the
forenoon while we saw no fire we were well paid for the trip. Our guide Alex Lancaster
is a shining success in his business. Our genial host Mr. Bidgood has showed us every
kindness ...
F.F. Crowson, Stoneham, Mass., 11 April 1903
Will always carry with me the memories of most pleasant entertainment at
Volcano House, and believe that even searching the whole world over one cannot find a
more magnificent and imposing sight than Kilauea. It will long rank in my memory as
one of the most impressive spectacles I may ever hope to behold. Here's luck!
Gertrude Gaylord, California, 14 April, 1903
Our stay at the Volcano House has been one of much pleasure and profit. Our
expectations have been exceeded in all particulars save one: the crater of Halemaumau
has not shown much luminosity there being so much smoke and steam the fires are
obscured. Our thanks are due to our excellent host ...
R.L. Wilson, Honolulu, 2 May 1903
We leave for Hilo at 1:30 this afternoon, after spending ten very pleasant days
here, experiencing delightul weather, and most thoughtful consideration from the
management. Madame Pele has not seen fit to oblige us, evidently; still, the trip to the
crater was well worth the visit.
Inez Perry Larnach, 20 May 1903
The first young ladies to visit the six craters seven miles distant in Puna district.
The ride is most beautiful through the dense tree-fern forests and the craters most aweinspiring. Beautiful sandalwood trees are to be found at intervals along the road. The ride
on horseback is most easy and craters are easy of access. Be sure to take trip before
leaving the Volcano House, your trip won't be complete if you do not.
Miss S. Follette Hildreth, Alameda, Calif., 13 June 1903
My wife and I have spent nearly 5 most enjoyable days at the Volcano House and
regret that we cannot extend the time. The weather has been perfect and all our most
sanguine expectations have been fully realized, for we knew that the crater was in a
quiescent state. No one should hasten from this wonderful place, and the walk over the
lava beds to the pit should be repeated, I would advise the men ______ to see the
remarkable crater of Punaialua. It is a long ride for the ladies, as my wife realized, but
without regret, for we were more than compensated for all the fatigue. Other craters on
the way were as fascinating as they were wonderfully instructive, and no man will regret
this trip....
Jeremiah Zimmerman, Syracuse, N.Y., 16 Sept 1903
KILAUEA IS SPOUTING BIG CLOUDS OF SMOKE
Honolulu, August 28. The volcano of Kilauea shows increased activity. Clouds of
smoke are ascending from the crater.
The Weekly Examiner, San Francisco, 3 Sept 1903
6 October 1903. The summit crater Mokuaweoweo broke out today at 12:45 p.m.
without any warning--no earthquakes or reports but a very large column of smoike shot
up many hundreds of feet and spread out like an immense umbrella, and continued so
untill dark, when what had been a column of smoke by day, was truly a "pillar of fire by
night." The sight from the Volcano House was enjoyed by quite a few guests who were
fortunate in being here at the time.
17 Oct 1903. During the last seven days very little reflection has been seen. But
last night at 11:30 it became more active again.
26 Nov 1903. From Oct 17th-Nov 20th conditions of Mokuaweoweo remained
about the same when it became more active than ever. More smoke and reflection seen
than any time since recent outbreak.
Dec 8 1903 10 p.m. Activity ceased in Mokuaweoweo.
St. Claire Bidgood, Mgr. Volcano House, no date
Illustrations: Two photos: 1. Summit crater of Mokuaweoweo taken at Volcano House 6
Oct 1903 at 1 p.m., 15 minutes after the outbreak (shows the large smoke cloud). 2.
Mokuaweoweo Crater, view from the rim 13 Oct 1903. Someone wrote next to this
picture, "Faked Print." Page 126.
Newspaper articles:
Fire Lakes Abounding [Mokuaweoweo], 11 Nov 1903, page 125.
Great Glow of Lava Flow Grand Show [Mokuaweoweo]: Advertiser, 9 Oct 1903, page
127
Turned Back by Thirst [party did not reach summit of Mauna Loa], 16 Oct 1903, page
128.
Eruption a Scene of Indescribable Splendor [Mokuaweoweo], 13 Oct 1903, page 128.
Mokuaweoweo Eruption Increasing in Vigor: Pacific Commercial Advertiser, 16 Oct
1903, page 128.
Eyewitnesses Report Overflow of Lava [Mauna Loa], 14 Oct 1903, page 128.
Women Make the Ascent to Top of Mauna Loa [active eruption]: Hilo Tribune, 23 Oct
1903, page 129.
Eruption Unabated [Mauna Loa]: Pacific Commercial Advertiser, 21 Oct 1903, page
131.
Big Kona Party to Crater, 30 Oct 1903, page 131.
Illustrations:
Two sketches, both Mokuaweoweo eruption Oct 1903, by T.C. Ridgway: 1. Perspective
drawing showing fountaining and flow in red ink. 2. Map view showing the same, with
1896 lake also labelled. Page 130.
Map view of Mokuaweoweo, with active lava in red, 21 Oct 1903. Page 131.
The following is a note under sketch on preceding page.(Page 131)
On night of 20th of Oct. 1903--three cones on edge of crater on camp side--One in
middle--which was large, one on right--small and one on left small.
On morning of 21st Oct. central cone was invisible--cone on right the same as
before--but that at left--very large.
Left Kilauea Oct. 18, 1903, at 1:40 p.m.
Arrived at Mokuaweoweo at 12:35 p.m., on Oct. 20, 1903. Arrived at Kilauea at
5:20 p.m. from Mokuaweoweo--at 6:35 a.m. on Oct. 21, 1903.
Mrs. Q.H. Berrey, Mrs. W.L. Howard, 21 Oct 1903
Trip to the crater of Kilauea by night. Dinner cooked over cracks from natural
heat of "the hereafter."
The initial trip of its kind and one we can recommend to all Volcano House
visitors as being instructive, intensely interesting and weird beyond description.
St. Clair Bidgood and party, 25 Oct 1903
SMOKING SNOWY PEAKS
The view of Mauna Loa from Hilo on Tuesday was a rare one. For a week past
the smoke has been coming out of the summit crater in large volumes and as it poured
forth on Tuesday seemingly out of an immense snow bank the scene was one that will not
soon be forgotten by those who witnessed it. The peaks on both mountains were well
covered with snow as a result of the recent heavy rains.
Clipping, undated, between Oct. 25 and Oct. 26 entries:
Newspaper articles:
Kilauea Active: Tribune Herald, 27 Nov 1903, page 134.
Volcanic Tantrums--Mauna Loa Crater Dark, page 134.
Halemaumau is active again! A glow was seen above the crater at 4:15 a.m. On
going down we found a lake had formed about 40 x 125 feet in the bottom of crater.
Fountains were playing continually and surface of lava very active and increasing in size.
Halemaumau remained active until Jan. 10th, 1904.
no signature, but probably St. Clair Bidgood, 25 Nov 1903
On the seventh of December, Halemaumau was in a fine state of eruption, a great
mass of molten matter being visible. For a long time we saw a fire fountain and from time
to time an outburst and flow of red lava.
Our picnic at the "hot crack" was most enjoyable, and we shall ever remember
Mr. and Mrs. Bidgood's kindness.
Lucia B. Tunis, Edith Heyer, 7 Dec 1903
I believe there is a tradition which is to the effect that it is always raining at the
Volcano House. Now I wish to record that this tradition should be exploded at once and
the pieces thereof melted in the pit of Halemaumau, for during my presence here Dec. 6th
to Dec. 11th 1903 there has been no rain and but little cloudy weather. Splendid views
could be had of Mauna Loa in action both day and night and also of Mauna Kea. I shall
look back upon my visit here with the greatest pleasure.
Frederick F. Sewall, Chicago, Ill., 11 Dec 1903
After spending a week at the Volcano House I feel it is the only place where one
can come and brace up. Left to see the crater on 15th at 4 p.m. got back at 8 p.m., have
seen the most wonderful sight never to be forgotten....
Mrs. T. Hollinger, 16 Dec 1903
Newspaper articles:
Third Trail to Crater [Humuula side]: Hawaii Herald, 3 Dec 1903, page 137.
The Volcanoes; Kilauea Increasing in Activity: Herald, 10 Dec 1903, page 137.
Sea Is Disturbed by Volcano's Gases, 24 Nov 1903 [crew of boat thought volcanic gases
coming out below sea level disturbed boat in calm waters], page 138.
Pages 139-140 are missing from the Register.
told him to be good and go to sleep. Suggests taking us down crater then and there for
five dollars. We do not feel inclined. Snowing & blowing furiously.
5 a.m. Looked at watch every half hour for 5 o'clock and at last it arrived--longest
night in history--Snow 2 or 3 inches. Horses covered with ice. Guide seemed dead, but
hearing us calls out if we intend lighting fire. Hauschild performs miracle in lighting fire.
Guide again grows energetic by coming over to get warm.
5:30. Tea and biscuit for breakfast. Congratulations on pleasant night.
6 a.m. Start descent. Trail obliterated by snow and below by rain--lost it 5 times
but recovered it easily.
1:45. Ainapo. Visions of eggs and milk but no one home. Canned corn beef lunch
looks good to guide, who helps himself from writer's plate. We accept it as proper thing.
2:40. Arrived Halfway House. Rain all the way. Carriage & pair awaiting us!
Shades of Madame Pele, what a relief! We expected saddle horses. Lunch also and two
Budweisers--Usual and never failing thoughtfulness of Mr. & Mrs. Bidgood. Attack on
lunch and beer or rather beer and lunch. Glass left in bottle which guide, feeling thirsty
helps himself to. Other bottle opened. One glass left in it, and and bottle placed on
ground. Wager made that guide takes it. He looks longingly and as no invitation and we
enjoyed ourselves with scenery, guide asks "if bottle for me." Of course it is!
Arrived at Volcano House. New Years dinner! Best in my career. Bed and thank
God no lava.
Jan. 3d. This morning Mauna Loa covered with large amount of snow. Rainfall
last night 2.84 inches. Are fascinated with thought this might have happened New Years
Eve.
J.B. Pattulls, Dawson, 3 Jan 1904
We take in the volcano as one of the principal incidents on our drive of over 200
miles making the complete circuit of the island from Waimea through the Konas and Kau
to this point, thence on to Hilo and through Hamakua to Waimea again. The drive
through Kona is delightfully tropical and ought to be taken more by tourists.
Jan. 21st. Our party made an interesting trip today, a walking tour entirely around
the crater. We went by way of Kilauea-iki, climbing down into it at the point where the
trail ends. The climb down was difficult at places especially for the ladies and the climb
out on the opposite side quite tedious. It would have been better to follow the edge of the
main crater from a point near the Volcano House, as Kilauea-iki is not so deep when it
joins the main crater. It took us an hour and ten minutes to cross Kilauea-iki, and we
could probably have done it in half an hour at the crater's edge. Following the edge of the
main crater we reached "Goat Crater" at 3:00 just two hours from the Volcano House.
The western end of the crater is broken up into sandy gulches which cost us some
precious time but we walked vigorously and reached the Volcano House at 4:41 just four
hours and thirty-six minutes after the start. The distance must be ten or twelve miles but
the walk is a very interesting one. If we were to do it again we should go in the morning
carrying a lunch and taking six or eight hours to do it.
C.H. Dickey and party, 19 Jan 1904
Madam Pele is dreaming
I hope she will not be long
And start her blasting furnace
To give us a red hot song.
Edw. Wolter, 30 Jan 1904
Fourth visit to Volcano, the first having been made in 1872. Second of Mr. R.W.
White, first having been made in 1883. First of J.P. Spindle and last of a number by G.P.
Castle. Considerable steam and this morning some smoke, the first noticeable in the three
days we have been here. Disappointed at inaction of the crater but the trip thereto most
interesting nevertheless and the weather since the storm of the 11th in which 5.05 in. of
rain fell in eight hours--has been simply perfect. Mauna Loa untouched by clouds and
heavily mantled with snow for hours after daybreak presenting the finest aspect I have
ever seen at this point.
J.B. Castle, 13 Feb 1904
The desire of many years has been fulfilled. I have seen Kilauea. While I hope at
some future time to see Halemaumau all aglow with molten lava, yet as it is in the sight
of the vast crater, the deep smoking pit, the cracks here and there emitting heat and
steam, these are enough to excite awe and wonder. This is my fourth visit to this island
but my first to the volcano. I have driven from Kohala and am on my way to Honuapo en
route to Honolulu. From Hilo there are now no hardships for the tourist and no visitor to
the Islands should leave without seeing Kilauea. The Volcano House is a pleasant place
at which to stay, and Mr. and Mrs. Bidgood do all that they can for the comfort and
pleasure of guests.
Henry Bond Restarick, Bishop of Honolulu, 14 May 1904
A trip never to be forgotten and ever to be remembered with feelings of intense
pleasure, such is what I enjoyed in the genial company of Bishop Restarick of Honolulu.
While the volcano did not "show off" with a grand and sublime display of pyrotechnics
yet the scene was truly impressive and afforded one or two nice sketches for future
pictorial efforts....
Rev. W.H. Fenton-Smith, Rector St. Augustine's, Kohala, 14 May 1904
Left Volcano House at 7:30 a.m. with Miss Mitchel of Hollister, Cal. as a
"tramping chum" and we made the trip in seven hours, including stop for lunch and
returned to Hotel at 2:30 p.m. Upon starting out we descended to the floor of the crater
and kept close to the left hand wall and later making the ascent when just below the
highest part of the wall, about one mile from where the regular trail comes out onto the
lava.
From this high point we had a magnificent view of the formation of the crater and
surrounding country.
After following along close to the edge of the wall to the crater we descended
onto the lava beds and approached the "Pit of Kilauea" from the south and were able to
see into the pit a little distance but the steam obliterated the view of the bottom.
To fully appreciate the size and formation of the crater, one should take this tramp
which can be made with great ease and little or no danger. Understand the crater is about
nine miles in circumference, my pedometer registered nine and one half miles for the
whole trip.
To all contemplating tramping around Kilauea I would suggest ascending the left
hand or eastern wall from the crater first off and in this way overcome the most difficult
and hard work first. We also tramped to Kilauea Iki, the Twin Craters, and Fern Forest,
which are very interesting and wonderful.
Harry Folson Gould, San Francisco, Cal., 13 June 1904
Illustration: Photo of smoking Halemaumau in the disstance. Page 149.
Note: someone pasted the end of Mark Twain's Strange Dream over part of Kuntze's
entry. Below is the part of Kuntze's writing which did not get covered.
is now no more fire in the crater, no glowing lava, no fire lake, even no fire shine in the
night
now untrue and unworthy for the Hawaii Promotion Committee, the
ce, the Merchants Association and agent of Wilder's Steamship Company
lies for the recommendation of the Kilauea, for it remains
interesting points of the world, which I know more as most other
other man will have seen so many volcanos as myself. The Kilauea
the oldest ones, that are always without cone or not of the top of a cone
deras in distinction from Vulcano cones. The Kilauea is the only
ld with perfect crater walls around; all other calderas sunk
de or more. In the ground of the extinct Caldera Kilauea
4500 m + 13500 feet) diameter is the new crater Halemaumau
with only about 200 m (600 feet) diameter, the top of which lies about 90 m (270 feet)
below the top level of the old Kilauea walls. At the high sides of the caldera are layers of
vulcanic mud ejections and rapilli (ash and broken stones of the crater deep inside).
These are also found around the top of the Caldera Kilauea and in the lowest part of that
Caldera near the Vulcano House at that partly ______ wall covered ____ down in the
Caldera with vegetation. By that mud and rapilli ejections the Kilauea does also not differ
from other vulcanos.
Now the many recent (about 17 may be historical) new lava eruptions of the very
small new crater (1/22 part of the old one) run down to the depression near the Vulcano
house; the top of that depression being now about 155 m (465 feet) below the top level of
the old caldera Kilauea.
But these recent lava streams are of the smallest ones existing not covering 2/3 of
the old Caldera ground and only 3-4 km in length with an inclination of 465-270 = 195
feet.
In the year 1868, as the most credible late Doctor W. Hillebrand (author of the
Flora of Hawaii) reports (see copy appended in the visitors book of Vulcano House 1886
page 36) [18 April 1868 entry] sunk one inner part of the extinct Caldera ground 300 feet
below the level of the remaining ground. Afterwards the recent lava streams run on this
depression and formed the fire lake and by later cooling disjunctions became 2-3 fire
lakes thereof.
By its cooling on the surface of the fire lake the lava hardened and sunk by and by
being heavier than the fluid lava down in the latter, also the cooled edges of the fire lake
sunk in sometimes, resulting in temporary fire fountains till all the fire lakes were cooled
and disappeared as it is now since some years.
Now you can walk over all lava fields and former lakes in the Caldera and even
wooden telegraph poles are erected upon the former fire lakes. But in the depth the lava is
still hot and out of the many crevices resulting from the progressing cooling of the hard
lava the evaporating rain water is to be seen as water steam. This pure water steam
changes the crevice edges of the black lava into argillaceous white. Where the water
steam coming out of the interior of the earth is mixed with sulphurous acid and changes
the same black lava into an ochreous couleur. Now if you look from the highest point at
the Kilauea wall, from the flags erected there, all over the lava in the ground of the
Caldera you will see only near the Halemaumau crater large spots of that ochreously
changed lava resulting from the sulphuric acid of the crater steams.
But over the remaining lava fields even over the deepest depression you see
everywhere the white argillaceous crevice edges resulting from the evaporating
rainwater. That is also a proof that the former fire lakes down were not ejections of an
older crater pipe.
I believe that the very small resting crater pipe, the Halemaumau, is extinct and
stopped by hard lava for ever, because the broken pieces of the inner crater came up at
last by lateral small pipes and formed the singular "lava-men" never seen elsewhere,
being erect columns (1:2-3) of lava pieces accumulated and molten together, 3-10 m high
and 1 1/2-6 m thick.
Although not an open vent for the glowing interior of our globe and not in
communication with the eruptions of Krakatau and Martinique the unbroken still erect
big Kilauea Caldera with its very small recent crater Halemaumau and its cooled former
fire lakes and lava streams remain all in all one of the most interesting sights of the
world; also the neighboring Kilauea iki is one of the finest views: a most regular funnel
crater 800 feet deep now
covered with small vegetation except the plain ground, where lava ran in at 4th of April
1868.
Dr. Otto Kuntze, San Remo, Italy. Member of two academies and many scientific
societies in U.S.A. and Europe, 16 June 1904
The principal interest of the Volcano House does not lie in the active crater about
which the learned Doctor has written on the preceding pages. The advice of the under
writers is: see the steaming pit of Kilauea and then prepare to see something of far more
interest. Thirteen may be an unlucky number for most people but for Miss Freney and
Miss Cooledge it is a red-letter day. The preceding day a tramp of ten miles had been
taken which served to inspire them to greater efforts, so at nine o'clock on the thirteenth
of June they started to make the trip around the volcano crater, taking the trail along the
top of the cliff instead of the usual route along the floor. Following the trail along the cliff
at the left of the lava floor, the first experience of interest was getting lost in a gulch
thickly overgrown with large ferns. Retracing their steps, they left the trail and mounted
the ridge to the surveyor's mark at the narrowest point. The one who was in the lead
forgot to take heed to her steps and dropped into a hole which just came to the top of her
hat. Her agonized cries for "Help!" were unheeded so she climbed out and was ready to
point with pride to the scene where she reviewed the scenes of her life in an instant's
time. From that point the two started on with the wise resolve to keep each other in sight.
Soon an open space at the left attracted attention and Kilauea-iki appeared spread out in a
much finer view than the one usually seen. A good trail along the top of the large crater,
following the easier places and avoiding if possible the large cracks, led to a steep pitch
up which these ambitious maidens scrambled to the top of the plateau. Then began an
interesting walk across gravel for miles. By this time the travellers were expert
discoverers of crater pits and had no trouble finding the Goat Crater, which, by the way,
they did not know was there until they found it. From this time the rage of discovery
came upon them and they abandoned the "trip" and started off into the woods to search
for more craters. At a distance of not more than two miles, they came upon a small round
crater of an almost perfect cone shape like an inverted cup. It was covered with trees. The
lower ones looked like bushes. Since no one, either guide or manager at the hotel has
been able to identify this crater, it has been christened Coolfre by Manager Bidgood.
From time to time all day these pedestrians had been drenched but as the first visit was so
heavy that they took this bearing as well as possible and finally came into the crater
(Kilauea) by a gulch near Goat Crater. The walk directly across the lava floor took fifty
minutes and at half after five the day's work was completed--a trip of fully fifteen miles.
The following day saw another jaunt of almost equal interest to the top of Cone Crater.
The round trip of thirteen miles (including a point half a mile beyond the crater) took four
and a half hours. This trip had an accompaniment of steady rain, yet the view of the crater
more than repaid any discomfort. One more notable trip was taken with a native guide
from outside the Volcano House staff. This trip was notable because of dogs, hogs, and a
sight of something that no other Volcano House visitor has ever seen.
The conclusion of the whole matter is that a whole mine of intrest offers to those
who are willing to walk and search and enjoy. the rewards are: information at first hand,
sound sleep, a healthy appetite and a reluctant departure.
Elizabeth Freney and Ethel Cooledge, Graduates of the Kilauea University, Fellows of
the International Institute of Pedestrians, Members of several crater partys (Kiluaea,
Kilauea-iki, Puu Huluhulu, Poli O Keawe, Coolfre, etc.) 16 June 1904
For snow capped mountain peaks, rugged rocks, fiery pits, bracing air, complete
cuisine, good service and the most congenial of hosts, visit the Volcano House.
C.K. Maguire, Manilla P.I., 5 July 1904
July 17th was a beautiful day. Clouds of smoke were rising as usual from the pit.
In the afternoon there was an earthquake accompanied by rumbling sounds. This shock
was felt and the sound heard by the Lymans while resting by the three craters. July 18th
was raining and cloudy until in the afternoon Mr. Bidgood and his guests looking from
the hotel veranda saw that the smoke had disappeared. Tuesday the 19th we saw scarcely
any smoke--only a faint haze. Mr. Bidgood visited the crater and reported the caving in of
the sides of the crater. This afternoon (the 20th) I visited the crater--found but little
smoke. The vent holes from which the smoke has escaped so freely are all closed by the
vast amount of debris which has fallen during the past few days. Small quantities of the
rocks forming the ledge around the crater, are continually falling into the crater. In July
1894 Mr. L.A. Thurston made the following sketch of the crater. At present July 20 1904
it is like this.
W.D. Westervelt, 20 July 1904
Illustration: Cross section of Halemaumau, 20 July 1904, W.D. Westervelt, adjacent to
copy of profile done in July 1894 by L.A. Thurston. Page 161.
Left Hilo on the morning train, had a buggy waiting at Glenwood, took a horse to
the crater where nothing but smoke could be seen, had luncheon at the hotel, took a horse
to Kilauea-iki, had a sulphur bath and caught the afternoon train to Glenwood. Left
Honokaa Sunday morning and arrived back there Tuesday 4 p.m.
J.W. Waldron, Honolulu, First visit, 15 Aug 1904
This day a party composed of the persons whose names are signed below
achieved the notable feat of walking to "The Seven Craters." We left the Volcano House
at 6:45 a.m. and arrived at the summit of Puu Huluhulu at 8:35, making the distance of
six miles in one hour and fifty minutes, and visiting the twins and a third crater en route.
Puu Huluhulu (The Cone Crater) is an orthodox crater, the kind our geographers used to
make. From the summit of its cone we could see four other craters. From this point the
view of Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea is excellent. We next visited the craters of Aloi and
Alealea, both near Puu Huluhulu. They are similar to Kilauea Iki in form but somewhat
larger. From Alealea we returned to the main trail and continued on to Kamakaopuhi
(The Eye of the Eel) arriving there at 10:45. The depth of Kamakaopuhi is estimated at
1600 feet, and the crater is, in a way, more wonderful than Halemaumau. At 12 m. we
began to retrace our steps, and arrived at the Volcano House at 4 p.m. So far as is known
we are the first to make this trip on foot and, while we consider the sights worth any
amount of effort, we would give this friendly tip to those who make it in the future-"Don't walk."
A.M. Merrill and party, Honolulu, 12 Aug 1904
Six Weeks at the Volcano House
Kilauea is one of those rare spots where Nature improves on acquaintance. At first
she seems harsh and forbidding and impresses one with the awful grandeur of her works,
but with a more intimate acquaintance her spirit mellows and her bearing becomes more
like that of a friendly, congenial, sympathetic and always interesting and entertaining. We
have now been here for six weeks, and we are indeed loath to leave. The ever changing
condition of Kilauea, the numerous craters in this vicinity, the forests, the caves and the
mountains have been a source of ever increasing interest to us, and we feel that our time
here has been well spent. The climate is ideal and during our stay the weather has been
delightful. The mornings have frequently been misty and we have had several light
showers, but there has been but one "rainy day" during the past six weeks. Among the
excursions taken while here were two trips to Halemaumau, one around the rim of
Kilauea, one to the "seven craters," two to the Twins, one to the Koa Forest, several to
Kilauea Iki, several to the Fern Forest, and many about the crater and over the country.
We have found several valuable pieces of lava bearing the imprint of ferns, and also
quantities of Madame Pele's hair. The exercise and climate have produced enormous
appetites, but the table has always been equal to them. Our extended stay here has been
made most pleasant by our genial host and hostess, Mr. and Mrs. Bidgood, and their
kindness to us will ever live in our memory of this happy period of our lives.
Mr. and Mrs. A.M. Merrill, Honolulu, T.H., 16 Aug 1904
Kilauea Revisited.
Sept. 12, 1881, I first saw Kilauea, and during the next two years I saw it several
times. During the first visit I was a member of the first party that had ever crossed the
crater floor by night, the other members being Jacob F. Brown and William H. Wall of
Honolulu and Miss Severance of San Francisco. At each visit then, 1881-1883, I found
the New Lake at the left of Halemaumau very active, showing many fountains within an
hour's time and at one time I counted 19 very fine fountains of molten rock playing to a
height of 20 to 30 feet. Halemaumau was also active but the pit was surrounded by a
large mass of broken fragments making a rough cone rising so high as to project above
the brink of the crater as seen from the Volcano House. For this reason it was not so
much visited as the New Lake. Flows were constantly taking place from Halemaumau
over the floor of the crater, and at one time we were so cut off by one that we had to
circle around far out of our way to get back to the path out of the crater.
Now all is changed. I can find no trace of the then New Lake at all. Its site is
evidently covered with the same pahoehoe that covers all the remainder of the crater
floor. Halemaumau is approached by a gentle rise from the general level of the floor till
one stands upon the brink of its pit which is several hundred feet deep. Broken blocks do
not surround it, and are found only in a few places. The throat of the pit is entirely choked
with fallen debris through which volumes of steam are constantly rising in variable
quantities. No trace of molten matter can be seen but considerable heat can be felt at
many points. "Pele's hair" which was so abundant formerly cannot now be found.
Our party of eleven descended at about 8:30 a.m. and after visiting various
features on the way and around the pit came back to some very hot cracks and had our
lunch cooked by the steam and heat issuing from them. We also charred postal cards in
the same manner so as to send them as souvenirs of Kilauea to our friends. We returned
to the Volcano House about 4 to 4:30 p.m.
Some or all of our party at various times also visited Kilauea-iki, the Six Craters,
the koa and fern forests, and other features. During all but our last day the weather has
been exceptionally fine.
George H. Barton, Cambridge, Mass., 13-17 Aug 1904
Coming from Denver, Colorado, and familiar with impressive scenery, knowing
also that Kilauea was in one of its periods of rest, I did not anticipate anything
overwhelming here. Halemaumau at this time is not at all so volcanic as Vesuvius but the
vast caldera with its revelations in lava formation and the opportunity of seeing down into
the depths of Halemaumau, with the accessories that make this such an interesting field
for the study of volcanic action, are more than satisfactory.
The quiet in Kilauea permits more attention to other interesting points. Today
with two young ladies and two men in the party we visited the seven craters.
Spent a delightful day. The cone crater is a fine, picturesque example of explosive
activity, and the "eye of the Eel" is the most impressive in sheer depth of wall of all the
caldera. These much exceeded our expectations. We had been told that it was a hard trip,
we went horseback from the hotel and one of the young ladies was quite inexperienced in
riding but we found the trip not only easy but a constant delight. The trail is good and
picturesque all the way. The stops broke the monotony and prevented weariness to the
ladies. We came back from the most distant point, said to be nine miles, in two hours,
taking time to chat and enjoy the road....
Tom Bayard Craig, Pastor Central Christian Church, Denver, Colo., 27 Aug 1904
At the close of a delightful but all too brief stay, it is a pleasure and a duty to
express our unbounded satisfaction with all that has made our visit so memorable. In the
course of our trip around great part of the world we have seen many wonderful and
beautiful sights. But among them all the grandeur and impressiveness of Kilauea and the
sweet sylvan beauty of the Fern Forest will ever remain stamped on our memories as
among the most notable of our recollections....
A. Clifton Kehoag, late editor of the London "Sun," 27 Aug 1904
Fifteen days ago I arrived here as one of a party of six, and my only regret now is
that circumstances forbid that I should stay fifteen days more.
During our very agreeable visit here, I have kept a record of the weather
conditions as far as regards rain and sunshine, the results being as follows-Rain
05 percent of the time
Fog
11
"
"
Sunshine
84
"
"
Unfailing courtesy and attention on the part of our host and hostess have combined with
such ideal weather to make our visit a most enjoyable one, and our recollections of this
trip will be of a very pleasant description.
David Pullar, Honomu, Hawaii, 31 Aug 1904
Climbed old Haleakala three weeks ago and today saw the crater of Kilauea. After
seeing the immense crater of the former, Kilauea looks rather small, but the life and fire
in this one lends it an uncanny fascination which the former does not have. Have enjoyed
our three days stay here very much and leave tomorrow morning for Honolulu.
Mabel A. Thayer, San Rafael, Calif., 29 Oct 1904
Awful and yet sublime! The cracks are what they are cracked up to be--they're
hot! Went down to the pit Halemaumau this morning--popped corn and scorched
souvenir cards over the heat pouring up thro the cracks in the lava. Have been here three
days and for the benefit of the incredulous will say that it has not rained all the time--not
half the time--no, not more than a third of the time!--and this the rainy season too! Much
of the pleasure of our stay is due to the courtesy of mine host and hostess, Mr. and Mrs.
St. Clair Bidgood.
Gertrude F. Thayer, San Rafael, Calif., 29 Oct 1904
Since my last visit in Sept. 1902, the changes in the crater are but slight. The
banks on the east side of the Halemaumau pit have fallen in quite a little and the
observation point is shattered by cracks and unsafe.
The lava which ran out on the floor of the pit some months ago is still visible,
although nearly covered with debris from the surrounding walls.
The lower slopes of the walls of the pit have fallen in more than the upper,
especially on the north and east sides, where they are almost perpendicular from top to
bottom.
The cracks along the outer rim of the pit, at the observation point on the north side
have widened and appear extremely unsafe. In fact the approaches to the pit seem more
dangerous than at any time since the break down in 1894.
The heat cracks on the line of the pit of 1892 (see p. 89) [Baldwin's Aug 29 1902
sketch] remain as hot as ever, igniting paper and wood almost instantly.
There is no fire in the pit and no steam, but a large amount of sulphur vapor,
arising from the extreme bottom of the pit, from under the east bank, and a small amount
from the bottom of the north bank.
In company with Mr. and Mrs. C.W. Cook, Mr. and Mrs. F.J. Lowrey, Mrs.
Howard and Jno. Baker Jr. made the trip around Kilauea-iki to Keanakakoi, thence via
the old sulphur banks on the south bank of the crater and the long sand tongue which runs
from Keanakakoi toward Halemaumau, to the pit at Halemaumau.
The new trail around Kilauea iki, constructed by Mr. Bidgood is good for use on
either foot or horseback, and adds an extremely interesting detail to the attractions of the
Volcano House.
I suggest that it be called "Echo trail," as the echoes from the observation point at
the east end of Kilauea iki are quite distinct, and it leads to Keanakakoi which has 5
distinct echoes from the west bank. This crater might well be called "Echo Crater."
One of the most attractive features of the new trail is the fern tree grove, which is
quite free from underbrush, showing the trees all to good advantage. The native song
birds are also more numerous than I have seen them in any other part of the islands.
L.A. Thurston, 8 Nov 1904
Of the delightful days passed here, none was of more interest than the one
referred to by Mr. Thurston. The trail beyond Kilauea Iki is a new one just completed to
Goat Crater and passes through a beautiful tree fern forest as well as through quantities of
Lehua. Echoes were good at Kilauea Iki but much finer at the further crater and we
heartily endorse the name "Echo Crater" as suggested by Mr. Thurston, for this further
crater. From this latter point, Echo Crater, Mr. Thurston acted as guide, preforming his
duties in a highly satisfactory manner, bringing us to Halemaumau in safety. Here we had
glimpses of the bottom and sides of the crater. At the hot cracks, lunch was waiting for us
and after frying bacon, boiling eggs, and making tea over these hot cracks, an enjoyable
meal was partaken of and return made by regular trail to the Volcano House. Mr.
Bidgood assures us that ours is the first party to make this round trip. We heartily
recommend it as giving the most extended views and a variety of scenes of any taken by
us. It was leisurely taken, many stops being made on the way and about seven hours
spent. The trip is not a hard one but Mr. Bidgood sent one horse along to be used as
required, and other horses were sent to Halemaumau. Two of the party however, walked
the entire distance. It is with pleasant memories of days spent in and about the crater and
with appreciation of attention shown us by the management of this hotel and the Clerk of
the weather, that we take our departure.
F.J. Lowrey, 10 Nov 1904
This is my third pleasant visit to the Volcano House. I came up on Thur. 17th and
am going down today Monday. On Friday three tourists (Mr. Dunhart, Miss Craig, Miss
Bailie and myself) went down to the crater of Halemaumau and had a very nice time. At
present there is no activity but the hot cracks near the crater were so that it was very easy
to scorch a quantity of souvenir postal cards which one of the party had. On Sat. Mr.
Dunhart and I went to the six craters. This is quite a horseback trip but the craters are
very interesting indeed and it is well worth the time and trouble. Mr. Bidgood is at
present in Honolulu but notwithstanding everything has been very nice and all that could
be desired.
Wm. Hay, 21 Nov 1904
Aloha Nui to "Madam Pele" and the finest climate in the Islands.
Mr. and Mrs. St. Clair Bidgood, 25 Dec 1904
The following entry is an excerpt from a news clipping.
George Lycurgus, the well-known proprietor of the Union Grill of this city, was
yesterday elected manager of the Volcano House on Kilauea. Mr. Lycurgus has a
controlling interest in the company, and at yesterday's meeting of the stockholders took a
second mortgage for $5,000 on the property, the proceeds of which are to be used in
betterments....
no source except Honolulu, Hawaii (probably P.C. Adv.), 16 Dec 1904
Kilauea explodes the mountain theory in regard to Crater Lake, Ore. & Mt.
Mazama.
The greatest natural wonder in Oregon is Crater Lake. It is equally wonderful as
Yosemite Valley and still so vastly different that they cannot be compared. The lake is in
just such a cone as Diamond Head on Oahu, but in the summit of the Cascade Range and
inside a rim between eight and nine miles across. The lake is 2,000 feet deep in the
deepest places and the inside walls are from one to two thousand feet above the water.
These walls in some places are just as steep as small boulders and stones can be piled and
in others the bluffs are a solid perpendicular stone wall. Near one edge of the lake there
rises from the water a cinder cone island 1,000 feet high on top of which there is a small
crater.
The popular theory advanced and generally accepted in regard to their formations
is that it had once been a high volcanic mountain (one of the loftiest on the coast) but a
great explosion had occurred under it blowing off the top and scattering it over the
surrounding country. Smooth rocks on the side indicate the wearing of a glacier. The
cone formation as it now stands leads many to believe it was once the base of a high
mountain.
The last argument is refuted at once by a study of some fifteen craters to be seen
about these islands. Among them we find the exact counterpart of the Crater Lake cone as
well as many variations of it.
Landslides and snowslides through thousands of years might easily have worn
smooth, rocks now called the evidence of a glacier especially because the glacieral
evidences are near the foot of Laio rock, the highest part of the lake wall.
Again, when one realizes that the inside walls are perpendicular for 2,000 feet
above the water and nearly 2,000 feet below as well as many of them being
comparatively thin, it certainly stands to reason that an explosion forcible enough to raise
the mythical Mt. Mazama would not only blow material straight up but would leave a
bowl-shaped hole even though the explosion was a great distance underground.
It is also argued that such a large mountain could not drop into the earth without
there being a corresponding upheaval elsewhere. This argument does not enter into the
discussions considering the point of view that I take but it is easily set aside after reading
the history of Kilauea which shows two important and conclusive facts. First that Kilauea
is generally in sympathetic eruption with volcanoes in Peru. This shows the vast territory
affected and in connection with these volcanoes and shows if there was not an upheaval
near the mythical Mt. Mazama it might have been on another continent. Second, in the
known history of Kilauea the lava level has varied from three to five hundred feet in the
course of a few hours. This goes to show that there could be vast changes without making
any great upheaval in the immediate vicinity.
Finally, the walls around the caldera are equally steep in places as those around
Crater Lake and no one knows how much steeper they may have been before the present
flow of lava covered the bottom of the crater bed. This cauldron as near as I can tell was
formed in a very similar way to that of Crater Lake and proves that the same subsiding
occurred here as there.
My conclusion then is that Crater Lake is a large volcanic formation similar to
that of Kilauea but of larger area and long since inactive so that it has filled with water.
The last eruption from Crater Lake was mostly cinders while that of Kilauea was entirely
lava making the Halemaumau cone more flat while the cinder cone in Crater Lake is very
steep.
Harold S. Gilbert, Portland, Oregon, 11 Jan 1905
Being the sentiments of the Portland-Spokane Party of Tourists, arriving at
Kilauea Volcano House, Jan 8th, 1905. [Lists party.]
It is the agreed & expressed opinion of our party that the new management of this
delightful breathening spot has taken care of us in most satisfactory and agreeable
manner. The house seems to have been cared for well, the cooking of excellent quality &
the service very good. We agree in wishing the new management under Mr. Lycurgus a
full measure of success in this his latest undertaking in serving the public.
Notwithstanding the fact that the volcano is practically inactive at the present
time--there being only a small amount of escaping heat and steam--still our party agrees
that our time and money have been well spent, as well as a most enjoyable experience
obtained.
Mr. Gilbert & Mr. Harding visited about all of the accessible attractions in the
neighborhood of the Volcano House, including Kilauea iki, the Tree Fern Forest #2,
Kilauea nui & its active crater Halemaumau, the Koa forest & Tree Moulds, & a little
Sandalwood growth and decaying logs, (this latter being now very rare on the islands) &
last, but by no means least in interest, a tramp of perhaps 14 miles to the region of the six
craters, including a climb to the top of the cinder cone called Puu Huluhulu. An
unexpected shower coming on & soaking our two pedestrians prevented further
exploration of this interesting region.
The remaining adults of our party explored the points of interest in the vicinity,
excepting the six craters.
The natural plant growth here has also attracted our interested attention. We have
been particularly impressed with the strong resemblance of the native berry called ohelo
to its relative on the north Pacific coast, namely, the mountain red huckleberry.
Mrs. A.H. Harding, Portland, Ore., 12 Jan 1905
Kilauea Volcano even in his gentlest mood is grand beyond the power of
language express, showing forth the creative power of the great God, and teaching such
as have eyes to see and minds to understand, that it is proper for creatures to love, trust
and obey a Being so great and good.
John Milsap, Major, Salvation Army, 18 Jan 1905
At the crater today it's hot!! We have been in Dawson, Yukon territory (the
Klondike) when it was 75 below zero! Think of the contrast! Follow the arrow, don't go
below, it's hot enough at this elevation.
J.T. Wilkinson, Vancouver, B.C., Jan 1905
The above entry is accompanied by a drawing of an arrow pointing up.
We arrived on 30th January from Kapapala Ranch and are to remain here until 3d
February. There has been no sign of activity in Halemaumau, in fact the crater has most
of the time been so obscured with steam that nothing but the bare outline of the walls
could be seen. The weather has been unusually cold, the thermometer during the day
seldom recording over 60 degrees and at night has gone as low as 46 degrees. Mine host,
Demosthenes has been severely handicapped by the painting which is now being done
but has been so assiduous and thoughtful in his attentions that we will be loath to leave
when Friday comes. Our advice to other newly married couples is come to the Volcano
House for your honeymoon, the climate and everything else is ideal.
E.A.R. Ross, Second visit, 31 Jan 1905
Someone wrote underneath:
Had you time to notice activity, had there been any?
Congenial party under guidance Mr. J. Sutherland Ross left Honolulu on the fine
little steamer Kinau Jan. 31, for that mecca of travelers the awesome Kilauea. The ride
over the rather roughly dancing waves was broken in an interesting manner by stops at
various towns and landings, most notably at the ancient capital of Lahaina, where in the
pristine days of whaling great fleets were wont to gather. At Laupahoehoe we were given
a fine exhibition of landing through the surf by the kindness of Manager Wight, who
luckily happened to be aboard. From Kohala the scenery equals anything in the world,
reminding one first of the Norwegian fjords, then of the inside channel to Alaska and
often taking the eye of the mind back to the silvery, ribbonlike beauties of the Tivoli.
From beetling cliff and laughing waterfall we passed on to a coastline teeming with tilth.
The great cane fields dressed in brilliant green suggested fields of wheat in springtime. At
Hilo we were met on the dock before the freight was going out of the Kinau, so prompt in
action is the management--no loss of time anywhere. All night at the Demosthenes, a
good sleep and an early start was made for a ride to Kilauea 22 miles by rail and 9 miles
by stage. The rail ride was through an attractive country forming a panorama of sugar
plantations and fields of bananas and coffee. But the particularly enchanting ride was that
by stage over a very good basaltic mountain road, walled with tropical vegetation. The
useful ohia tree, now and then a rare sandalwood, once in a while a koa, wild bananas,
pandanus, graceful tree ferns oftentimes successfully attacked by the predacious staghorn
fern, vines of yam, clusters of white and yellow ohelo berries and a most luxuriant red
berry, resembling the raspberry and thimbleberry and brought to the islands by a Mr.
Hitchcock, the berry taking his name among the local folks.
The crowning glory of the trip--Kilauea--was reached at 11 a.m. After an ample
and welcome lunch the party of ladies and gentlemen seven horses strong and many
footmen started for Halemaumau--the house of everlasting fire. The first impression is
one of subdued, oppressive awe, akin to the feeling upon seeing Niagara for the first time
or any other sublime natural wonder. It had rained in the forenoon and the atmosphere
was thick, but the kindly sun half broke through the clouds, and the day was not at all a
bad one for the trip. The great cauldron was reached after a pleasant ride and tramp.
Standing on the fissured brink and looking down into the sulphurous depths one could not
help thinking of Titan and his wondrous forge--the house of demons and their consorts-the furies. But above was a kindly sky and about us to windward was the pure air and we
took new heart and hope in an uplift of thankfulness that the great God permits us to live
in a world so pleasant indeed as contrasted with this apparently bottomless pit.
After visiting the heat-exuding rifts, burning cards and canes, taking photos and
seeing all to be seen we took our way back to the Volcano House. One of the party
"paced" back and counted 5800 paces or near three miles--2000 paces to a mile--from
Halemaumau to the Volcano House.
Upon our return Manager Lycurgus permitted us to see a pig put to roast in the
ground ala Hawaii, swathed in banana and ti leaves to sweeten it and heaped about with
sweet potatoes. While the pig was roasting we all went to Kilauea Iki only to marvel
again. Returning we sat down to a banquet fit for Lucullus, made all the merrier and
enjoyable by the presence of Manager Wight, of Wilder's Steamship Co. and Mr. and
Mrs. E.A.R. Ross, with the pig as the piece de resistance. It was juicy and delicious. After
dinner we all sat by the yule log fire and talked volcano and read from these fine old
records. Who wouldn't come to Kilauea and come again and again?
Chase S. Osborn, Sault Ste. Marie, Michigan, 2 Feb 1905
After spending five days at the Volcano House with Demosthenes Lycurgus for a
host can only say that we have had a most delightful time and only hope to have the
pleasure of returning for a second visit. The crater was not active at this time but to a
newly married man this made no special difference.
Harry H. Morehead, 9 Feb 1905
...Arriving at the Volcano House a scene was spread before us that can never be
forgotten. To the south lay miles upon miles of solid lava where not a sign of vegetation,
barring an occasional fern which had obtained a foothold in some of the crevices, was to
be seen.
The entire field was dormant except for occasional masses of steam which issued
from the crevices. At a distance of about 3 miles was the crater of Halemaumau with a
dense mass of steam rising from its mouth. to the west of us the lofty summits of Mauna
Loa and Mauna Kea presented a beautiful background to the picture. On our arrival at the
Volcano House we were taken in hand by mine host Lycurgus and his affable nephew
Demosthenes who is the resident manager. The elder Lycurgus came the entire distance
from Honolulu with us....
The morning after our arrival we visited the large crater. The distance is about 3
miles and can be made either on foot or on horseback. In going to the crater we followed
a trail down the mountain till we had descended about 1100 feet and then commenced to
cross the barren field of lava. Every foot of this trip was very interesting as we beheld the
lava cracked and broken into all sorts of fantastic shapes by the cooling process, showing
here and there immense fissures and again pyramids or cones in all forms and shapes. We
realized for the moment the immense natural forces that accomplished such wonderful
results. After crossing over this formation for 2 miles or more we came to the crater
proper. Here we looked down into a steaming cauldron 700 feet deep surrounded by
perpendicular walls of solid volcanic rock. This crater has been active at various times
lately, notably in 1881 and 1895. We could only wish it was active now but have every
reason to be perfectly satisfied with what we saw. Further on we were shown Madame
Pele's Reception room, which consisted of a cave in the lava where we followed our
guide for 2 or 300 feet under the surface, afterwards we saw the "Devil's Kitchen" where
it was hot enough so a few seconds was sufficient for me to stay inside. Then we visited a
portion of the lava field where constant blasts of hot air are issuing from the surface. Here
we scorched our __________ postal cards by the natural fire. During all this time we
were constantly reminded of Dante's picture of the inferno and could easily imagine
where the old Bible writers got their conception of a place of future punishment where
hell fire and brimstone predominated. The balance of our 3 days stay was spent very
pleasantly in visiting aspects of interest in the vicinity, among the most notable being the
the fern forest where we saw tree ferns 30 to 40 feet high and gathered unlimited
quantities of wild thimble berries from the bushes underneath. We were much interested
in visiting the koa forest where we saw holes 30 to 40 feet deep where in past ages the
lava had piled up around the trees and killed them. In time the trunks decayed leaving a
symmetrical hole in the form of a well. The small extinct volcano of Kilauea iki being a
small crater 700 or more feet deep with a solid lava bottom was also interesting.
In fact every day of our stay has been filled with surprises.
We cannot but urge any person who visits Honolulu to make the trip to the
volcano. A visit to Honolulu without a visit to the volcano is like eating strawberries and
cream with the strawberries left out. One misses the best part of the feast. No one should
take the 4 day trip as the same day trip is short enough in which to see what is of interest.
The sea voyage was a very easy one and the roll only moderate while crossing the
channel and sailing along the shore of the islands.
M.A. Moore, 11 Feb 1905
There is no doubt that there is a law of compensation in everything! Had it not
been for a long and serious attack of fever, I should not at this time have spent one of the
most delightful periods of my life. On leaving Honolulu I was so weak that I had to be
carried on board the Kinau and after 20 days at Volcano House had gained exactly 20 lb.
The climate here is glorious--cold at night and just cool enough in the day time to make
walking a pleasure and giving one an appetite like a horse. It surprises me that so many
people who feel in need of a change, should go to the Coast, when right at hand is such a
delightful resort where for a very reasonable figure one may enjoy a climate unequaled in
any part of the globe. The new management are evidently in earnest in their desire to
make every guest comfortable. All success to them!
Alex Lindsay Jr., 15 Feb 1905
To come to the Hawaiian Islands without paying a visit to the marvellous crater of
Kilauea is infinitely worse than the play of Hamlet with no Hamlet in it....I will not
attempt a description of the wonders hereabouts. I have not time and besides it would be
superfluous if possible; for none are likely to read this who are not here, and when here
they will surely see the wonders for themselves, and then urge their friends to come and
see.
S.M. Owens, Minneapolis, Minn., 16 Feb 1905
Kilauea Active Again! Washington's Birthday.
The American Flag was raised at sunrise by Col. C.S. Scott, treasurer of the Cal.
Society Sons of the American Revolution with proper ceremonies, all hands present. A
banquet was given in the evening by the manager Demosthenes Lycurgus of the Volcano
House where the good things were served including hot birds and cold bottles, after
which we adjourned to the verandah, where we were wishing we had some fire works to
complete the celebration. All at once the light from the Volcano was discovered by one of
the party who called our attention that Madam Pele had remembered general
Washington's birthday and exemplified her fireworks in the crater of Halemaumau. The
Volcano then became active and completed our celebration.
Feb. 23. A party consisting of Mr. C.S. Benedict...and the guide John Mahelona
who is a full blood Hawaiian, visited the volcano and found it active, with a lively
fountain playing continuously in the bottom of the pit, shooting up fire, molten lava and
rocks from 25 to 50 feet high with a tremendous roar and forming a cone. According to
Hawaiian custom a piece of money was handed to the guide who sacrificed it as an
offering to madam Pele with ancient ceremony. Whereupon we completed our journey
after witnessing a sight that no one can appreciate, except those that have seen it,
themselves.
Demosthenes Lycurgus, 22 Feb 1905
After four days of activity eruption closed with a land slide covering over vents
and enveloping pit in a cloud of smoke. Only small fire visible Sunday morning.
D. Castle Ridgway, Ed., Hilo Tribune, 26 Feb 1905
Illustrations:
Perspective drawing of Halemaumau, by T.C. Ridgway; night of Feb 24 1905; shows red
lava from a crack in the wall pouring down to floor of pit. Page 193.
Perspective drawing of Halemaumau, 28 Feb 1905, by E. Fuhr; lava colored red, smoke
rising. Page 195.
Visited Kilauea on the evening of February twenty-ninth--arrived at the crater to
find the floor of the crater almost black. After waiting about twenty minutes, a small lake
formed with considerable fire which we all watched with interest. Dame Pele kept up her
magnificent sight for much longer than we stayed presently and the lake formed and after
an hour's wait the whole floor of the crater showed great activity with a great hissing
noise which at times was very awe inspiring. We left the Volcano House at four in the
afternoon and returned at half after eleven with everybody absolutely satisfied. On
returning we had a most excellent supper served by our popular host. If one never sees
fire in this crater they are well repaid for the trip taken.
K.E.M., 29 Feb 1905
I treated "Pele" to a glass of whiskey, but she failed to respond.
Hessie Lemon (1st visit), 13 March 1905
Madame Pele was not at home when I called for I hunted all over her house from
reception room to kitchen but could not find her.
Goldie G. Gurney, 13 March 1905
Illustrations: Three drawings by Wm. Williamson.
1. Map of Halemaumau showing Today's Activity in red and 3 March 1905 flow
2. Cross section showing activity of 20 March in red and sulphur smoke
3. Map view of Halemaumau, showing molten lava in red, and solid black for cooled
crust. Page 201.
My trip to Kilauea has given me a great deal of pleasure. Not being a very good
walker I found a great deal of comfort in making the trip to the working part of the crater
on horseback.
The sight is most wonderful and even if there was not a great deal of action I was
well satisfied. On March 30th/05 there were several fiery spots at the bottom of the crater
and the sight was most interesting. Our genial host Demosthenes and his right hand
bower Mr. Stream are always ready at any time to do what they can for the comfort of the
guests. They are here dubbed as "Jolly Good Fellows."
Julius Brownstein, San Francisco, 1 April 1905
We first saw Volcano House and Kilauea at 11 a.m. on Thursday March 30th
1905 after an easy, pleasant and comfortable ride of 22 miles by rail and 9 miles by stage
from Hilo.
We have seen a great many extinct volcanic craters and miles of lava, but never
beheld a sight such as is here presented:--the old crater of Kilauea in which is the active
crater of Halemaumau sending up great clouds of smoke, present a view the impressions
of which cannot be forgotten. We regret that we must leave at 6 o'clock tomorrow ...
R.B. Burns, Los Angeles, 4 April 1905
The fire glimmered day and night
In Pele's lively court
The Goddess then was making up
Her annual report.
It was, I thought, as near to Hell
As ever I expect to be
This was, as I remember well
In eighteen eighty three.
But now!?
O Traveller will it puncture you
With one remorseful throb?
To find that in the present day
Poor Pele has lost her job?
And would it cause you even
Some moments of regret
If you should chance to see this sign:
The Volcano is to Let!
Max Schmidt, San Francisco, 5 April 1905
Illustration: Full-page pencil sketch of visitor on brink of crater, "By Jiminy." Page 205.
My week's stay at this hotel has been my introduction to life in these islands, as I
only arrived in Honolulu on April 3rd, the day before sailing for Hilo on S.S. Kinau. The
experience has been a pleasant one and I shall recall my sojourn here with pleasure.
While there has been no volcanic activity, the region has been full of interest and the time
well spent in various walks and excursions. Three days--April 9-11--were devoted to the
ascent of Mauna Loa. The veteran Honaka guide Pelelili met me with a saddle horse, by
appointment, at 11 a.m. on the 9th, at the Half Way House, whence we rode to the
Ainapo milk ranch where another native cowboy with a pack horse met us. Ascending in
a more northwesterly direction through scattered koa forests and rolling pasture lands, we
made a "dry" camp amid some stunted trees just below timber line at an altitude of about
8000 ft.--at a point on the slopes of the mountain bearing by compass South 70 West
from the Volcano House. On examining my supply of canned goods they appeared to be
mostly of a thirst-producing character such as Russian caviar, kippered herring, etc.,
which was a little awkward considering our distance from any water supply--however,
we made out very well on the trip from the breadstuffs, tea and fruit included in the
generous hamper furnished by the hotel.
Left camp, after a glorious sunrise, at 5:40 a.m. and reached the eastern rim of
Mokuaweoweo at 9:40 a.m. Good time, for which the guide and hardy native ponies
deserve all credit. The trail was exceedingly rough and of a constantly ascending gradient
and dim at all times. There was no evidence of present subterranean activity; but the size
of the central cavity and the stupendous proportions of the main depression were most
impressive. A subsidence of the eastern crater wall, forming a platform or bench above
the lately active area, does not appear to be indicated on the U.S. Coast Survey chart of
1901 which I have been able to examine since my return to the hotel. The weather
conditions were ideal and I experienced no unpleasant sensations from cold, nausea, or
rarefied air. The return to the camp was made in three hours and twenty minutes, and
while easier than the ascent to the animals, proved to be more fatiguing to the riders. Two
remarkable hillocks of contorted lava, on the right of the trail in descending, bear a
striking resemblance to gigantic cuttle fish and were photographed.
After a comfortable night in the tent at timber line, the return to the Half Way
House was made without incident by 11:05 a.m the next day--whence the stage
transported me to the Volcano House by 4 o'clock the same afternoon.
This hotel--situated as it is amid surroundings that appeal to lovers of nature in
her mild as well as her sterner aspects--deserves a continued prosperity, while for
students specially interested in the varied phenomena of vulcanism, the neighborhood
presents a field of unequalled variety.
My acknowledgments are due to Mr. Demosthenes Lycurgus for many kind
attentions during my stay.
Henry G. Bryant, Philadelphia, 13 April 1905
Halemaumau active, fountains playing continually, accompanied by large
volumes of red hot lava, looks somewhat like red hot iron; the whole lake is filling
rapidly.
F.W. Schultz, Honolulu, 18 April 1905
Illustration: Water color of man on brink of Halemaumau, 18 April 1905, by F.W. Shultz,
with red and yellow lava lake in background. Page 210.
...Left the Volcano House for Halemaumau at 4 p.m. April 22nd. We arrived at
the crest of the crater, just one hour later, and spent two hours viewing the magnificent
fire some 600 feet below: the roaring and spouting from the pit below was sufficient with
the immense volumes of fire, to create a sort of uneasiness, but "No necessity for alarm."
There was a solid mass of molten lava below, some 400 feet square, though not at all
times was this mass in one solid glow. Smoke and steam emitting from the hundreds of
seams and crevices on the lava flow over which we passed before reaching the crest of
Halemaumau, in many places sufficient heat to burn wood and light a cigar in a few
seconds. The entire party called upon Madame Pele at her reception room which is
reached by passing through a small aperture or blow hole in the upper crust, by ladder,
down some 20 feet below into a large cave or cavern in the lava entirely below the
surface and some 20 feet wide by about 150 feet long, we found the Madam out, but we
all left our cards: thence we were accorded a special privilege of viewing the interior of
Madam Pele's Kitchen, which is likewise an immense cave. Steaming with smoke and
emitting suffocating sulphurous gases, in this, we were unable to more than poke in our
heads and run for the outer air to breathe--evidently the Madam was preparing for a feast.
We tread over many hundreds of feet of lava, steaming with smoke and sulphurous gases-feeling no other inconveniences than an occasional blast of excessive heat, with strong
fumes of sulphur. The entire party were unanimous in one conclusion, that, the
comparatively little hardship of arriving at Pele's brink was and is the smallest
compensation imaginable for the very great, and grand display of everlasting fire.
Kindled, fed and on display to the world, by her Royal Highness Madam Pele.
P.H. Burnette, 22 April 1905
On Easter Sunday, April 25th 1905 [should be April 23] the Revd. Dr. James B.
and Mrs. Nies took a walk over the rolling sea of lava that constitutes the Great Crater of
Kilauea, to the so-called "fire hole" known as Halemaumau. Dr. Nies had been there the
day and night before. Fire was then visible at one end of a great lava floor that forms the
bottom and in various cracks and on its surface. On now looking down into the crater, at
this time about 600 feet deep, he saw at once that a new cone had been formed on the east
side at about the middle, some 75 feet above the bottom. From it issued frequent
explosions, together with a fierce hissing sound, while lava was both thrown into the air
to a height of from 50 to 75 feet and also flowed down the sides of the cone. At one
o'clock the exploding eruptions took place every 45 seconds, this continued for two hours
when they took place every 50 seconds and when he left at 4:45 they had diminished to
one every 20 seconds. This was only a temporary lull. Visitors who saw the "Easter
Cone," as it has been named, on Monday, at all times of the day and up till midnight, all
reported great activity and a brilliant pyrotechnic display, particularly at night. Some said
they saw lava and stones thrown to a height of 150 feet, one that he saw the whole top of
the cone blown off and was able to look deep down into the mouth of the infant volcano
and see the throes of its heaving bosom, i.e. the molten lava surging up and down.
April 25. Dr. Nies went alone this morning, reaching Halemaumau at 10:15. A
considerable change had taken place since Sunday afternoon. The cone was three times as
large and the lava from it had spread out over a wider area and flowed down over the
rocky interval of 75 feet to meet the original lava at the bottom of the crater. Constant
explosions were going on at the rate of 6 in 5 minutes, as a rule on a larger scale than two
days before. Lava was being thrown out in large quantities, and at one place some 20 feet
below the top of the cone was flowing constantly from the side. The mouth of the cone
was at first Y shaped, then took the form of a Maltese Cross, the two arms of which soon
disappeared, filled with congealed lava. Soon after the whole cone was split from crown
to base, leaving a wide opening in which, with the aid of a pair of binoculars, he could
see every detail of action as the molten lava surged and boiled before an explosion.
Though it was bright daylight these eruptions were red and clearly seen. Sometimes the
lava burst from a crack in sheets like a fan. Again it burst perpendicularly from the top.
Or was shot like bullets from a hole in the side of the cone with an upward slant.
James B. Nies, Brooklyn, N.Y., 25 April 1905
The volcano is doing fine work, the display is beautiful beyond description.
P.H. Burnette, 26 April 1905
A blow hole on the north side of the pit has flowed out over the bottom of the pit,
making a flat bottom to the latter some 500' in di.
The blow hole was exploding at intervals of several minutes throwing spatter lava
to a height of 30 to 40 feet. The flow was still hot and flowing slightly at intervals.
The pit has filled considerably since Nov. being now I judge 500'-600' deep.
The southern bank continues to fall in, there being quite an amount of debris on
the newly flowed lava.
The observation points on the east and west sides are so unsafe that the only point
approachable from which the bottom of the pit is visible is opposite the Volcano House,
where the bay in the pit is situated.
L.A. Thurston, 1 May 1905
We stood on the brink at midnight
Wildly expressing our delight
At the sublime and wonderful sight
Then came home and wrote letters all night.
When we visited the volcano this afternoon we found it active at several points
but particularly so at the west side of the crater where a body of lava about 150 feet long
and nearly as wide was in motion and showing the molten seams in fantastic forms at one
time taking the form of a knight in armor and again in the shape of a horse and as we
watched the weird movements we imagined it took the form of his satanic majesty. At
two other points small cones were throwing up fire and steam with now and then quite a
pyrotechnic burst of fire. The guide told us that the crater was over 1500 feet in diameter
and about 700 feet deep. It is a most sublime sight as you view the miles of lava beds
surrounding the crater and looking into the crater see gradually forming another mass of
molten rock which may again fill the crater and overflowing form another great field of
fire. Bursting from crevices and caves all over the old field of lava are jets of steam and
hot air, showing that underneath this great field, 9 miles or more in circumference, the
great forces are still at work and one cannot but draw a long breath of relief when once
more he stands at the rim of the old crater at the Volcano House--and yet there is a
fascination about the sight that will draw you there again and again with the feeling that
some day, maybe, the Goddess of Fire will perform your last rites.
H.A. Peairs, San Francisco, 4 May 1905
Newpaper articles:
Volcano Again Blazes: Evening Bulletin, 28 April 1905, page 216.
Three Cones in Action and a Flow of Fire, 30 April 1905, page 216.
Editor Dent Robert at the Pit, 29 April 1905, page 217.
Farewell dear Volcano House and all the attendants. We have spent many
pleasant hours under this roof and have pleasant memories to cherish of thee. After an
illness of five weeks, acting on the advice of my Doctor, I left Honolulu on May 2nd for
the Volcano House accompanied by my wife, reaching here on the 4th. It was only with
difficulty that I could walk any distance, when after a stay of about ten days I could walk
four miles and not feel as tired as when walking a few blocks in Honolulu, or elsewhere. I
have gained about one half pound a day and my strength coming very rapidly. Everything
pleasant during our stay, Manager Lycurgus & wife doing everything possible to make it
pleasant for all concerned. Weather delightfully cool. Volcano active, Madam Pele gave
us a grand display of fire works, its grandeur I could not describe....
Mr. and Mrs. C.M. Roberts, 31 May 1905
Having spent three delightful weeks at the Volcano House, it is with regret that I
say adieu to mine hospitable host and hostess. This is my second visit to the Volcano
House and my fifth to the crater.
On May 28th I visited Madam Pele at four o'clock in the afternoon, and remained
with her until 10:30 in the evening. The floor of the lake was covered with flowing lava,
with two cones making a grand display of fireworks. Pele entertained me in a most
elaborate manner.
Mrs. Frank J. Stone, San Francisco, 15 June 1905
...Thousands there are who cross continents and oceans, to see these Islands, and
well they are repaid, who visit the Volcano House (a cool delightful spot in the midst of
tropic heat) and see the Grandeur of Nature's Work. Here one can feast on thoughts of the
Grand, Stupendous, Magnificent. Here one can see what was once a boiling, seething, pit
of Hell, and not far from this once Inferno, are found beautiful flowers, luscious berries
and wonderful ferns.
I must confess my entire inability to write my impressions, to express my
thoughts regarding Kilauea. To see Madam Pele in a quiet frame of mind, will amply
repay one's time and trouble, but to see her boiling over with wrath, must be a grand
spectacle indeed.
F.L. Felter, Los Angeles, 20 June 1905
The great scenic types of geographic form should belong to the people, and
should be free of access to all; their preservation to posterity may be secured by
permanent government control.
Kilauea is an instance, and like Yellowstone and Yosemite areas, this region
should be public domain.
An accommodation house equipped with the requirements which excursions in
such a region demand, conducted by one competent to direct visitors to intelligent
sightseeing, and on reasonable rates so that those of moderate means may visit and revisit
this locality replete with volcanic phenomena, is the need at Kilauea.
G.C. Curtis, 15-23 June 1905
...Witnessed first eruption since Feb. 22nd. Lava flowing from one cone filling
bottom. First visit, June 22nd to June 28th, 1905.
Ross C. Ingrim, San Francisco, 25 June 1905
The following is an excerpt from a news clipping.
George Lycurgus, who came up from Hawaii on the Kinau yesterday, reports that
the volcano continues in activity.
no source, 25 June 1905
Visited the crater on Friday 23d and was well pleased with the cone that was
spitting fire on the northeast side of the crater pit. The balance of the bottom was as black
as pitch.
On Sunday 25th some of our party visited the crater at sunrise and the cone was
active and the red hot lava oozed from the base of it. The streaks of lava formed fantastic
forms. On the same afternoon we went to the crater to watch it by night. Madame Pele
was very obliging, and she rewarded us with the finest panorama that was possible to see.
All the party concerned were pleased when at ten p.m. we returned to the hotel
and dinner awaited us and we did justice.
B.C. Oliveira, Honolulu, 26 June 1905
To Pele!
The white hot fires of the under world
Surge upward through the murk of thy wide pit
Oh, Pele! And the flaming lava, hurled
Is by the gentle trade wind, passing, whirled
As if the sea sent imps to play with it.
The heating of the life of all the world
Is in thy fires; red as men's blood is red;
And even as thy demon flames are whirled,
Before the souls unto perdition hurled
Men see, alive, in thee what men see dead.
Sol N. Sheridan, 13 July 1905
Newspaper articles:
Splendid Display in Kilauea's Crater, 8 July 1905, page 227.
A Night of Fire at Kilauea's Big Crater: Pacific Commercial Advertiser, 12 July 1905,
pages 228-229.
Visited Halemaumau this afternoon (my fifth visit). If perdition is worse than this
"house of everlasting fire" I am perfectly willing to remain out of it, and keep as many
others from going therein as I possibly can. To plunge into Kilauea volcano over the lava
cliffs encircling the fire pit, would be considered by mortals a fearful fate; to plunge into
the bottomless pit is considered by the god of creation a more fearful fate, for which
reason he tells the unsaved to act wisely by accepting his mercy through the Lord Jesus,
through and by whom a home eternal in the heavens is possible to the truly penitent soul.
John Milsap, 20 July 1905
A party returning from Halemaumau reports that the top of the "2nd of July" cone
blew off about 6:30 p.m. after loud rumblings and frequent explosions of gas, and that the
cone is now throwing out jets of lava at intervals of little over a minute. They report no
flow--the lava scattering widely and appearing to cool rapidly. Estimated height of jets
150 feet.
Another party immediately left and upon their return, next morning, reported
continued activity.
Monday, July 24. Snow on Mauna Loa this morning.
At Halemaumau from 4 to 11 p.m. The cone appears to have built up since last
night and is now, I would estimate, 100 feet in height. I estimate the height from the time
it took dislodged blocks of lava to fall from the top of the cone to the floor of the pit.
From a 7-shaped crack in the top of the cone jets of lava were thrown to a height of 50 to
100 feet, the force appearing to raise the "lid" to an angle of about 30 degrees. Frequent
flows of lava occurred from openings at different heights on all sides of the cone, (none
from the top) the largest completely covering the space between the base of the cone and
the north wall of the pit. A dense smoke continued to issue from the northwest wall,
about 200 feet from the base.
The observation point on the north westerly brink (see p. 89) [E.D. Baldwin's 29
Aug 1902 entry] appears to me decidedly unsafe. The ledge has the appearance of being
completely detached from the main wall and only resting upon it.
R.R. Reidford, 23 July 1905
It is very pleasant to revisit Kilauea, and to be assured that the volcano is a reality,
although magnificent displays cannot be made to order.
I commend to the thoughtful consideration of the enormous deposit of volcanic
ashes, pumice, lava bombs, stones and rocks spread over several square miles and
touching the great pit between Keanakakoi and the southwest angle next to the road to
Kau. It must be fully 100 feet thick. Were it removed, who knows how much farther the
caldera extends to the south and southeast!
This deposit must have been laid down by an eruption of the most violent type in
prehistoric times, long before the passage of the army of Keoua from Hilo to Kau in
1790. It was a truly terrific discharge, fully equal to anything ever sent out from
Vesuvius; and thus enabling us to affirm that Kilauea has sometimes belonged to the
explosive class of volcanoes, and has not always been the same creature of today.
C.H. Hitchcock, 27 July 1905
No geologist can fail to learn very much of volcanic processes from a visit to
Kilauea and the surrounding country. Though but a very insignificant part of the whole
mass of recent flows, that which so fills the space between the active crater and the trail
down the hill from the Volcano House is to me very impressive and very suggestive. In
its endless variety of twisting and flowing, its rising and fallings, its quiet movement and
its writhings, and breakings, it gives one a vivid idea of what is taking place during a
great flow. On a small scale we saw this actually taking place in the crater once or twice.
And the crater should be seen and patiently watched not only by day, but more especially
by night. Very interesting and instructive to those geologically inclined are other craters,
Kilauea Iki and Keanakakoi. This latter is a perfect type of extinct crater. And then the
vast flows on the slopes of Mauna Loa many of which are recently crossed! They are
indescribably rough, terrible as any inferno imaginable. It is all most wonderful,
fascinating, even splendid.
G.H. Perkins, University of Vermont, 28 July 1905
We are leaving the Volcano House after a delightful visit of four weeks.
Have been to Halemaumau eleven times and have seen some grand displays.
The big cave, pumice beds, Keanakakoi Crater, and the bottom of Kilauea Iki
though hard tramps are well worth the exertion....
Helen A. Alexander, 30 July 1905
Kilauea, presenting as it does a scene unique, as it is grand, posesses for me a sort
of weird personality forbidding comparison to other natural phenomena upon the earth.
The tree moulds found close by the koa forest are to my mind indicative of the
topography of the locality in which they are found at the time of their formation. The fact
that no tree moulds exist within the koa forests but lie in barren ground along lines
between the timbered portions would indicate where the former hills and valleys lay at
the time of the tree moulding lava flow.
F.R. Feitshaus, Geological Survey of Kansas, 2 Aug 1905
The trip to the Six Craters was made by our party August 7, '05. The first two,
called the twins, are close together, and much overgrown of vegetation. The third is very
interesting, resembling at first sight an ordinary cinder cone, but on closer inspection is
seen to be composed of layers of lava. The outer slope measured by aneroid is 200 feet in
altitude. The inner was estimated at 150 feet. The view of the other craters from the top is
very interesting. This is the only crater showing an outer slope. The fourth crater is like
Kilauea Iki but is smaller. The fifth is double, a second crater having formed on the floor
of the primary one giving a section as shown in the sketch. The sixth crater is several
miles beyond the fifth and resembles it, but is larger, deeper, and better seen. Its section is
shown in the sketch.
no signature and no date
Illustration: Small drawings: profiles of two of the Six Craters. Page 236.
...the following described scenes.
1. Beginning at 9 p.m. on Monday, Aug. 28, 1905, we saw an unusual glow
coming from Halemaumau which appeared from the Volcano House as if the flame or
fire rose some distance above the Great Pit.
2. Much excitement prevailed and we made the descent, arriving at the fiery
furnace at about 10:30 p.m.
3. The glow came from a great fissure which formed an elongated cone, through
which great puffs of fire and lava were being thrown with titanic force. This display was
close to the wall on the northeast side of Halemaumau.
4. On the northwest side was a large lake covered with broken lines of fiery lava,
and here, at intervals, small lava flows occurred.
5. Throughout the floor of the pit many lights appeared and disappeared, showing
evidence of activity everywhere: in fact it would seem as if the court of Madame Pele is
preparing to stir up Vulcan's furnace in grand display.
6. Great volumes of black smoke, with sulphurous fumes, poured out and rose
heavenward, and we hereby testify that we believe that even greater activity will shortly
take place....
W.L. Howard, Honolulu, 29 Aug 1905
Visited Kilauea for the first time. Made three trips to the pit during my stay of a
week. First visit, Sunday Sept. 3, saw no fire but from one cone in easterly end of pit,
dense volumes of smoke arose. On this visit was able to see floor of pit. Second visit
made on evening of Sept. 7 in company with...This trip was made in a heavy rainstorm.
On arriving at the pit nothing was to be seen but dense smoke filling the crater. On
returning had hot coffee and sandwiches at the crack on easterly side. This novel
experience more than repaid for the inclemency of the weather. Third trip to pit made on
Saturday Sept. 9. Southerly wind made sulphur smoke cover part of trail. Splendid view
of entire floor of pit. Appeared to be 600 feet in depth. Saw three cones emitting dense
smoke....
C.J. Cooper, Honolulu, 9 Sept 1905
Very little change in pit since May 1, last, except that the pit has filled a little
more and there is more vapor, rising from two cones on the northeast side of the pit. No
fire visible or noise in the pit. The bank on the southwest side near the bay has caved in
considerable since May, and rocks dropped over the edge caused large slides, hundreds of
rocks starting and bounding far out onto the black level floor of the pit. A visit was made
to the "specimen cave" to the south of the pit. The drip of the water has resulted in
numerous stalactite formations of white salts on the ceiling of the cave, still too soft to be
removed. The smoke from the pit is so dense that it is only at intervals that the bottom is
visible. The smoke is a light brown and has practically no odor of sulphur. There is no
appreciable change in the heat cracks north and east of the pit. Paper is ignited within a
few seconds after being dropped into the cracks. See page 214. [Thurston's May 1 entry.]
L.A. Thurston, 18 Sept 1905
...It would be as much out of place for me to praise "Mine Host" "Keoki" as
t'would be to suggest improvements to the "Madame." Both are all right--all right.
Norman Gifford Campion, 28 Oct 1905
...Visited the crater a number of times and Pele was doing her best to entertain
us....
Mae R. Weir, Honolulu, 30 Oct 1905
Stayed at Volcano House from 26th October to 20th November 1905 recovering
from a severe fever. Visited the crater twice and saw two small cones spouting, walked to
Kilauea Iki several times, left because weather was so bad as in 25 days. I doubt if it was
fine for three days. Second visit, first a flying trip for one day 15th August 1904.
J.W. Waldron, Honolulu, 20 Nov 1905
Stupendous is the word which best explains the vivid scenes now being enacted at
Hawaii's best known resort--the Volcano Kilauea. Madam Pele has her back up again.
She certainly is huhu about something for Halemaumau, the pit of Kilauea, which is the
greatest active volcano of all this wide world, is at present doing great stunts that are
wonderfully interesting to even those who have seen this magnificent volcano in activity
time and time again.
Kilauea is a wonder even when not a spark of fire is to be seen in her big, deep
pit, and is worth any man's time and money just to get one small peep over the brink and
down into this vast hole in the bowels of the earth, but now, with three large cones
spouting lava and emitting dense volumes of smoke and steam, the view is simply grand
and awe-inspiring.
Today a small party consisting of Mrs. H.F. Wichman, H.G. Claxton, A.L.
Williams and Embert M. Brown, journeyed craterwards and were greatly surprised as
well as delighted at the great sight obtained from the brink of Halemaumau, the sublime.
The pit was full of smoke and steam yet at times the shifting winds would clear these
sulphur fumes away and then the grand and kaleidoscopic changes which were constantly
taking place many hundreds of feet below the anxious observer, could be distinctly seen
much to the great delight of everybody.
From one great cone an enormous quantity of dense black smoke was continually
belched forth. Suddenly a deep rumbling sound would come from somewhere beneath the
surface of mother earth and every eye would be attracted towards the shifting scenes
being enacted below, while every ear would be strained to catch each weird and uncanny
noise coming from nobody knows where.
One large cone, yet smaller than the one mentioned above, was spasmodically
producing pyrotechnical fourth-of-July fireworks displays that would keep all hands upon
the qui vive and wondering what interesting feature might happen next. During the
intervals when the bottom of the pit could be plainly observed, this cone at one moment
would resemble one vast vat of fiery, molten gold and then, without the least warning,
jets of this seething, sputtering and intensely hot lava would be sent heavenwards but to
fall again in one great spreading, golden spray. Now the yellow lava would flow over the
sides of the cone winding its way downwards to the bottom of the pit forming beautiful
and fantastic streams of yellow gold which were spread out below in one grand
panoramic view, the likes of which the awe-stricken sight-seers may never have the
extremely good fortune to witness again, though they live to the ripe old age of fourscore
and ten and travel this wide world around in the meantime hunting vainly for wonders
more sublime.
Then for awhile only, the smoke would hide everything within the three-acre pit
from view, the members of the party amusing themselves in the meantime by breaking
off and rolling huge boulders of lava over the precipice brink. In their swift, downward
flight through space the rocks would make an audible, buzzing sound and then, after what
seemed like hours of waiting, a tremendous crashing noise would float up from below
and echo and re-echo from wall to wall of this great caldron, it being several minutes
before these reverberating sounds would gradually fade away until but a faint and low
rumbling could be heard seemingly in the far distance, followed by silence like that of the
tomb. These loud noises were caused by the rocks striking the protruding ledges of lava
around the sides of the pit or else striking the extreme bottom, had they been thrown far
enough out from the brink. The rocks by landing upon piles of loose lava would often
produce large rock slides, the great stones tumbling helter skelter over each other in their
mad flight to the crater's bottom. A sound not unlike distant thunder during a terrible
storm, would be caused by these slides, the sound lasting an unprecedented length of
time.
As if for the party's special benefit the smoke and steam would again float away
and the three blow holes of Hell's gateway could all be observed working overtime to
vent the spite of the ever wrathful Pele, the famous goddess of ancient Hawaiian lore.
At intervals between the flowing lava lakes, sulphur beds which were at a white
heat could be seen, giving a varied aspect to the peculiar and inexplainable view below.
In a word, the whole bottom of the pit was in an almost continual confusion of upheaval.
...After hours spent in viewing the greatest wonder of the Hawaiian world without
its becoming in the least monotonous, the party reluctantly betook themselves to the Hot
Cracks then to cook the delicious ham, and boil the coffee of the Kona brand, furnished
by mine host Geo. Lycurgus, of the Volcano House. All that is necessary to prepare a
meal at this place is simply to place the container holding the food to be cooked over the
Hot Crack for a few moments, and behold, the trick is performed. After a sumptuous
repast cooked by Pill Roller Claxton, who was given advice by everybody, postal cards
were singed over the Hot Crack, previous to a visit to the Kitchen, Little Beggar, the
Devil's Picture Frame, the three Cones and Madam Pele's Reception Room.
The Kitchen is a circular cave, from the depths of which, hot blasts of air
continually come. At this place many beautiful lava specimens were obtained, they being
of many different colors and grotesque shapes. The Devil's Picture Frame is a downhanging lava flow situated at the mouth of a cave, two holes just large enough to hold one
or two ugly physiognomies each being so placed in the lava that a person's face
protruding from one of these holes causes the surrounding lava to greatly resemble a
picture frame. The Little Beggar is a small defunct cone or blow hole, situated near the
Picture Frame, while Madam Pele's Reception room is a long cave with two openings
which may be descended only by the aid of a ladder.
As tired as some of the party were, the journey back to the Volcano House, three
miles away, was not begun without one last look at the sight of all sights, Halemaumau,
the Hawaiian wonder. Everybody rode horseback, going silently along, "single file,
Chinese style," each individual thinking carefully of all he had seen in order to form a
mental picture for future reference of a sight he might never see again, and thus another
page of the sullen, vociferous Madam Pele's history had been completed, never to reoccur
again.
Embert M. Brown, "Evening Bulletin" Honolulu, 6 Nov 1905
To Whom It May Concern:-We, the undersigned, have all read the above narrative and unanimously
pronounce it as "Pretty rotten." Signed:
Mrs. H.F. Wichman, Alfred S. Williams, H.G. Claxton
Beautiful moonlight, at 11 p.m. made trip to Halemaumau...We made the trip on
foot reaching the crater in 45 minutes. Very heavy smoke at intervals Madam Pele would
show her face. After a stay of two hours we returned reaching the house at 2 a.m. making
the return trip in 49 minutes flat.
Chas. H. Siemsen, Hilo, 11 Nov 1905
A glorious morning after a heavy rain of the night before. Enjoyed my trip to the
crater yesterday morning, would advise every one that has money and time to visit here
and see the marvelous works of the Creator who doeth all things new.
E.L.D., 19 Nov 1905
The condition of the crater, lava beds and surrounding country, as seen by one
visiting them at the present time, is of interest, disclosing as they do, not only a
wonderful state of things that now exists, beyond the power of description, but also
furnishing unmistakable evidence of that which has happened during the centuries that
have passed. It is the contemplation of the latter that fills the soul with the most profound
wonder.
Solomon Lucas, Norwich, Conn., 20 Nov 1905
For the admirer of the marvelous; for the lover of Nature in one of her most
picturesque garbs; for the seeker after health; for the bon-vivant; for the botanist, the
geologist, and the seismologist; here is to be found something or other to interest, to
enjoy, and to satisfy. Singular must be the human being who can not be happy amidst
such charming surroundings.
Edward Armitage, Palikani, 2 Dec 1905
Note: he continues his praise in several other languages.
First man to descend to the crater, with a broken leg--once by day (Dec. 3) on
foot; once by night (Dec. 5) on horseback. Great deal of smoke, but little fire--the latter
visible by night.
W., 6 Dec 1905
Climbed out of Kilauea-iki to the end of the trail in sixteen minutes. Walked to
the six craters on the 19th. good trail all the way and a fine day. Walked back from
Makaopuhi crater to the Volcano House in two hours and forty-five minutes. The trip is
well worth the time and trouble. Makaopuhi crater alone is worth the trip. The volcano is
more active than for three months although the fire is still confined to two cones in the
S.W. part of the floor of Halemaumau. Altogether I have had a most pleasant week.
C.H. Tracy, 15 Dec 1905
An Almost-New Year's Resolution: To stop smoking when Madame Pele does.
L.R. Sargent, 21 Dec 1905
We, the undersigned, journeyed to the crater and watched by Kilauea's fires the
birth of the New Year.
H.W.M., Portland, Ore., and party, 1 Jan 1906
Arrived here on the 8th inst. Have spent a delightful 14 days due to the great
hospitality of Mr. and Mrs. Lycurgus. On Sunday, the 21st, a party of 8 visited
Halemaumau and while down I measured the depth of the pit finding it to be 576.9 ft. in
depth. (Official.) Therefore since February 22nd, 1905, Madam Pele has been hard at
work and up to date has filled up over 400 feet. May she continue to pile up the lava.
D.A. Loehen, Surveyor, 22 Jan 1906
I send for insertion, if practicable, in the far-famed Volcano Book, three
photographs taken on January 11, 1906, the date of our most interesting visit to the crater
of Kilauea, which happened to be unusually active at the time.
I was greatly impressed by the great black lava bed, like an ocean suddenly
fossilized, different in formation from anything I saw during a visit to Java six months
ago; and when we arrived at the centre of activity (Halemaumau) we were fortunate in
seeing clearly two fiery red cauldrons 500 feet beneath us.
Kate Lawson, 11 Jan 1906
Illustration: Three photos, 11 Jan 1906. 1. Man on brink of Halemaumau. 2. Halemaumau
smoking in the distance. 3. Woman on horse in front of Volcano House. Page 264.
A party from Oregon arrived here Feb. 11th, to be greeted by quite a shower. It
was not enough to make us homesick, however, and we started in immediately to enjoy
ourselves. The party includes a couple from California, who would be very willing to be
called Oregonians, so we are safe in saying the "Oregon" party. The following day we
visited the volcano and were again greeted by some rain. It did not keep us from seeing
the fire and all that went with it, and we saw all that was see-able.
Mrs. C.H. Leadbetter, Portland, 11 Feb 1906
After a delightful drive from Glenwood Sta. I had a most interesting day here. The
volcano must be seen to be fully appreciated. We boiled eggs and coffee on lava cracks,
after a little luncheon saw the fire spit forth from two holes, then returned to Volcano
House by the light of the new moon.
R.H. Eilers, Oregon, 29 March 1906
Three travelers on an April day
Climbed down the trail to Kilauea
Expectancy of some great sight
Shown on their eager faces bright.
Beneath the cliff there spread the bed
Of lava black and gray and red
Across and o'er this wondrous shape
The horses slowly took their gait.
Four miles the horses slowly walk
And then our eager travelers halt,
Eagerly from their saddles leap
And reach the edge so wild and steep
Alas Pele their prayer denied
And failed to show the fire desired,
For only steam their gazes greet
And smoke and odors not quite sweet.
So home these weary travelers turn
With slow footsteps and sad heartburn,
For of all the humbugs shown here below
The greatest is this old volcano.
P.S. The ladies do not subscribe to the above, but think the magnificent fountains
of fire spouting up here and there all over the floor of the crater, the wondrous flow of
molten lava curling and twisting into weird and fantastic shapes, and the huge masses of
red-hot rock hurled toward the sky with frightful violence (all of which they did not see)
were the greatest ever!
Chas. Taylor Raymond, Lockport, N.Y., 6 April 1906
More than satisfied with the trip. There is still enough fire, smoke, and steam at
various places to give a very good idea of the wonderful flow of fire and lava of 1881.
The trip is certainly well worth all the effort, time & expense it costs.
E.S. Hubbard, Salt Lake City, Utah, 7 April 1906
I have visited the volcano Kilauea and have found it most interesting. It is beyond
description and must be seen to be fully appreciated. I was more than satisfied with the
whole trip and shall never regret the expense and inconvenience of travel in order to visit
this Inferno of the Pacific.
Isabel Lyle Lawlor, Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, 15 April 1906
We have seen sights and wonders but never have we witnessed such a
phenomenon as this.
L.C. Patterson, Tacoma, Wash., 18 April 1906
Arrived via Hilo April 19th. Leave tomorrow for Honolulu via Honuapo. Spent
very pleasant time. Weather good. Volcano inactive.
Mr. and Mrs. Alfred Moore, Honolulu, 20 April 1906
I was unfortunate in visiting the volcano during a period of inactivity,
nevertheless feel amply repaid for my visit....
H. Edwards, 15 May 1906
My first visit to the volcano. Have stayed a week and seen practically everything
worthy of note. The volcano is not active at present, nevertheless it is a wonderful sight to
see, and well worth visiting.
Thos. G. Scott, 15 May 1906
Very sorry to leave this beautiful and wonderful place with all its fascinating
sights. Am sorry Madam Pele did not honor us with a celebration but hope the friends I
am leaving here may be more fortunate.
Maris Jordan, Honolulu, 9 July 1906
This is my first trip to the crater. Arrived at the Volcano House on Thursday
morning 9th inst. Have enjoyed the delightful cool atmosphere immensely. The fires in
the grate are certainly appreciated on cold days.
Went down into the crater on horseback, a party of five including the guide,
visited all points of interest within, such as Madame Pele's Reception Room, the Devil's
Kitchen, the Devil's Picture Frame, the Devil's Bakery, and peeped into the smoking pit.
The sulphur fumes escaping this pit do attempt to choke one, while standing on
the edge of this mysterious pit. In several places we noticed the heat escaping some
cracks while walking on the crust of lava.
This trip down into the crater is indeed a most wonderful sight, we enjoyed it very
much, would have enjoyed it more if only Madame Pele had not been in such a quiet
mood.
The Fern Tree Forest and the Koa forest should not be left unexplored.
Thimbleberries are found within these forests and are eagerly picked by all who wander
amongst the beautiful fern trees. Took a trip to Kilauea Iki the extinct crater, but made no
attempt to climb down into it.
I intend to leave here tomorrow morning, am sorry to leave this beautiful and
delightful spot on the brink of the crater.
Sophia F. Beerman, Honolulu, 16 Aug 1906
Returned after thirty-four years to find no fire.
Emma L. Wilcox, 11-14 Oct 1906
A Thirty Mile Tramp
Leaving the Volcano House at 9:35 a.m. the undersigned started for Goat Crater.
On the way we skirted along the edge of Kilauea Iki and found we had descended 180
feet. After viewing this interesting spot we followed the brim of Kilauea some little
distance when we were compelled to scale a pali some 100 feet in height. About three
miles from here is Goat Crater. Including the stops at Kilauea Iki and Kilauea it took us
one hour from the Volcano House. I may say here that it was due to the excellent guiding
of the Doctor that we experienced very little difficulty in finding so easy a trail. We spent
some little time viewing Goat Crater--and although no goats were seen we found a
natural amphitheatre and also a very ancient war hammer. This adz is now in the
exhibition at the Volcano House with the "Silcrian Refuger." Very little fatigued, we
decided on a plan of cutting south east for the Six Craters. At 10:40 a.m. we came upon
three goats, whom from their spring, we supposed wanted to have thier lives or pictures
taken. We took neither much to the disappointment of "Standard Oil." At one o'clock we
crossed the Keauhou Road and made our meal of ohelo berries and water. It was with
deepest regret we had to leave this mark of civilization for upon getting into the woods
again we experienced all kinds of pilikia. Following close to the Doctor's footsteps we
heard someone murmuring S.E. by E. Dear friends do not surmise it was Madame Pele-for it was only the Doctor, compass in hand, slowly but surely tramping along. At 1:25
we reached our lowest point (750 ft below the Volcano House) and also the most
beautiful bed of aa to be found on Hawaii. Although only one half a mile from
Kamakapuhi Crater, we were forced to get off this aa and steer due north. We were a
most sorrowful trio surrounded by a dense forest over which the fog hung thick when low
and behold we were confronted by an immense crack in "mother earth." We were
stumped!! Mayer said he wouldn't cross it. "Not on your life." The Doctor soon came to
our rescue for, with compass, aneroid, field glasses etc. etc. etc. found a way over. At
2:35 we explored Mud Crater. In this we found steam spurting from the side and could
easily trace a small stream of hot water near the bottom. We soon reached the Puna trail,
and followed along until we came to "Holy Joe's" survey point. Tramping towards home
in silence a cry from the rear caused the Doctor to stop and remark "Well we will go a
little slower then." Upon reaching the Keauhou road made us feel better as the
"Cegitarian" now knew that he was on the road home and ______ started singing
"Everybody works but father." Half way between "Holy Joe" and the Twin Craters it
started to rain and someone suggested sampling the Dr.'s arnica bottle. Not long after this
sampling we saw a natural demonstration, namely, Standard Oil will not mix with ---y.
On the brink of the Twin Craters are delightful resting places but on account of the heavy
rain and having no lunch or eats we had to keep the caravan moving very slowly. So
slowly in fact that we could not overtake some donkeys loaded with sweet potatoes only
a mile ahead of us. Mayer was anxious to buy the whole outfit. After the Doctor has acted
as a pack horse himself for two miles he said he'd get his Auto if we would "Only keep
walking." He had our promise in a second and started running for the Volcano House. We
were "Babes in the Woods" then ____ and with a great effort just barely kept moving
along. It seemed an age before we reached the Volcano Road and here we decided to sit
down and wait for the Dr. The gasoline buggy soon hove in sight and its "hunk hunk"
was the sweetest music we had heard in years. A few minutes landed us tired, wet and
hungry at the Volcano House, clean clothes and shower baths.
We were 7 hours and 25 minutes, making the trip and had it not been for the rain
and arnica bottle we could easily have made it in 6. We will not try it again until you beat
our record. When you do let us know. Take a compass and try it.
Wm. Walsh, 17 Oct 1906
...The dizzy heights of the "Chimneys" we scaled
Each with a grit that never failed;
Over the crater we swung our feet,
Far above the infernal heat.
On "Madame Pele" we made a call
Through her parlor and dining hall;
But, alas, the Madam was not at home,
So we left our cards again to roam.
At the "Devil's Kitchen" we took a peep
Expecting Old Nick to make a sweep;
Then over the lava we set the pot
And soon the coffee was piping hot....
"Glory" Gloyd, Portland, Ore., 23 Nov 1906
Fire Appears Again. One week ago today, on a visit to the crater we saw the first
fire that had been observed in the pit for about a year. A small flow could be seen at
night. Last night, December 8, after a week of slowly increasing activity, there was a
grand display, which a party of visitors watched for over two hours. Three active lakes
had formed at the bottom of the pit & one of them was for a time entirely overspread with
the fiery fluid. In another a fountain was constantly playing. The glow was plainly visible
from the Volcano House. Last night it was again visible.
George Henshall, 9 Dec 1906
We have spent a very pleasant time here during the last seven days, good bracing
weather, Madam Pele has given us good entertainment on various occasions. The
management is all that can be desired and we leave the Volcano House with regrets, but
hope to return soon and get more entertainments from the Madame.
A. McKenzie, Paauhau, 23 Dec 1906
...I looked, some awful moments, into the pit. From mysterious caverns I saw wild
demons throw lariats of fire to capture a herd of brazen bulls. There was no "Madam
Pele" there for me, to me it was a stampede of wild things from the lake of fire! No,
Dante did not imagine the Inferno. He was here.
Chas. E. Chase, "Western Tours" Magazine, 25 Dec 1906
Without a thought of being able, or qualified, to add anything to what has been so
often told in these pages by those who have come before, but yielding to the
importunities of friends, I will endeavor to describe Kilauea as I saw it. On Christmas
Eve our party remained at the crater's edge for upwards of two hours after the sun had
gone down. The pit was quite brilliantly illuminated with the burning lava which was
slowly oozing from a dozen or more crevices. Occasionally, from one spot at the
northeast corner, jets of flame and hot stone were forced upwards fountainlike, giving the
effect of a roman candle with its shower of sparks and larger globules of incandescent
cinders. The lava flow came from beneath the eastern and western walls of the pit, that on
the eastern side being the most active. The small circular pit on the south side showing no
signs of activity further than the clouds of vapor from the banks which surrounded it.
About one-half of the floor was covered with a new flow of lava, all of which, as the
darkness came on, was outlined in a network of fiery crevices or seams. The display was
sublime in its awful silence--for it was silence although accompanied by an indescribably
hissing and heaving and grinding which only served to accentuate the majesty and give
the impression of the tremendous force behind the molten mass which so leisurely
overspread the layers which had previously been deposited. There is a fascination about
the scene which must be felt, since it cannot be described. By comparison, the greatest
works of man are so puny that they dwindle into insignificance. It is only Nature that can
attain to the sublime....
E.L. Bingham, Reno. Nevada, 26 Dec 1906
On the evening of December 2nd 1906, fire appears in Halemaumau again, after
nearly a year of inactivity. The above plan and elevation, shows the position of the three
new points of activity.
At the time the writer was there making the survey, the two new lakes of lava
were very quiet, and mostly cooled over on top. Near the center of the west lake a small
cone scattered lava occasionally, with loud reports of escaping steam, which at times
sounded like a rifle shot, also the surface of the lake would crack in many places, and
considerable belches of lava flow out, and cool over again. The action in the east lake
was very similar to that as described in the west lake; there was no sputtering cone, but
the steam seemed to escape under the east bank of the pit, with great noisy outbursts.
The little black spot, to the south, which was very active at the time of the first
outbreak, seems to have cooled over, with the exception of a few red cracks around its
outer rim.
The writer found a difference of five feet in the level of the two lakes. At the time
of the first outbreak the east lake, was very much lower than the old floor of the pit, and
is now filling up very rapidly.
The most interesting part of this survey, is the location of the new lakes of lava,
with relation to the great lake of 1892, which according to Mr. F.S. Dodge's survey, was
exactly in the same spot as the present bottom of the pit. Mr. F.S. Dodge's location of the
1892 lake, and outer rim of pit, are shown by the blue dotted lines, on the above plan,
also by the red dotted lines is shown Mr. Dodge's location of the 1888 pit. According to
these surveys covering a period of 18 years, the main action in Halemaumau has
remained in the same spot in the crater of Kilauea.
A portion of the old wall, at the point of observation 1892, is still standing, and
partly covered with the over-flows of 1894.
E.D. Baldwin, 29 Dec 1906
Illustrations:
Full-page map and cross section of Halemaumau, 29 Dec 1906, by E.D. Baldwin; 500 ft:
1 inch; showing the present lake, red for active lava, distances, and extent of lake in 1888
and 1892 dotted lines. Cross section shows depths, widths, molten lava, lake levels 26
July 1908 and 26 Dec 1906. Page 308.
Cross section of Halemaumau, 28 Jan 1907, by F.S. Dodge, showing lake level 29 Dec
1906, 27 Jan 1907. Page 309.
The one who said that the crater of Halemaumau was as big a fake as the Southern
Cross, knew not what the Southern Cross meant to the Ancient Mariner in southern
waters, it was a guiding star. Let the crater of Halemaumau be a guiding star to all who
may view it, to a better life so that their future home may not be in the region of Dante's
Inferno. Enough said.
Austin N. Walker, St. Michael, Alaska, 3 Jan 1907
After a trip to the crater, good resolutions are in order.
E.F. Swan, N.Y., 10 Jan 1907
Mauna Loa's outbreak of 1907, which at this writing appears likely to be a notable
one, was first noticed at about 11:30 on Wednesday evening, January 8. It was seen in
Hilo at that time and by 12 midnight a great illumination of the clouds above the
mountain, caused a general awakening of the residents of the town. The observers saw a
wide column, almost of fire as it appeared reaching up to clouds which were colored as
by a red sunset. The maximum intensity of brightness was at about 1 o'clock & an hour
later the red column began to become narrower & the crimson of the clouds became
duller, until by 4 o'clock barely a trace of the glare was visible. Even a trace fifty miles or
so from the eruption, however, meant a big area of fire.
It was not until the following Saturday that any very definite information was
obtainable as to the real location & extent of the outbreak. Cloudy weather shut the
mountains, & it was generally thought that the eruption had ceased. On Saturday
telephone messages from Kona & Kau told of lava flows, confirming earlier reports of a
flow started towards Kona & possibly hidden in the clouds till it reached lower levels.
Today, Sunday, January 13, it is definitely reported that the flow has reached &
crossed the government road in Kau, near the Kona boundary, & unless it dies out very
much more suddenly than experience leads old-timers to expect, the flow, judging by the
speed with which it has traveled, is likely to be of some duration & to make material
changes in the contour of the coast.
Last night the glare of the flow was visible from the Volcano House, though the
red stream was going down the other side of the mountain.
Kilauea has continued, as on other occasions, apparently unaffected by the vast
activity of her parent mountain. The pit of Halemaumau still has the molten lakes,
constantly more or less active, that have been watched for several weeks past. The
exudation of incalculable quantities of the liquid fire from higher up on the mountain, has
not seemed to affect her smaller flows at all.
George P. Henshall, 13 Jan 1907
Jan 8, 1907 was a Tues. He must have meant Jan. 9.
Enroute to the Volcano House, via Honuapo, I was able to see the lava flow from
Mauna Loa--viewed from the sea it was a wondrously beautiful sight.
Walked to and from the crater of Kilauea this morning. The whole trip has been
most interesting and enjoyable.
Mabel Wood, Pacific Grove, California, 16 Jan 1907
1 a.m. Just returned from crater of Halemaumau, been very active for about 24
hours. Floor completely covered and many fountains playing and boiling in all its fury.
Certainly a beautiful sight. Pit filling up rapidly. Me! Oh Me! Oh My! Is that a sample of
the hereafter? If so I mend my ways immediately.
Raymond C. Brown, Honolulu, 22 Jan 1907
Two trips to Halemaumau.
On Saturday night Jan. 19th the first visit was made to this world famous crater.
Standing on the crater edge, 600 ft above the foaming lake of fire; the view was grand the
sight sublime! On a small part of the floor of the crater pit on the east, at the place which
has always been the source of greatest activity, the golden lava was flowing out and
covering parts of the pit. It seemed to be the beginning of the formation of a lake. No
fountains were playing, but now and again the puff & spit of a hidden cone would be
heard. For hours it was a most fascinating sight to watch the fiery cracks & note the
constant change of flowing lava.
E.W. Thwing, no date
On Monday night Jan. 21st the second visit was made to the crater of
Halemaumau. Most wonderful changes had taken place since the visit of two days before.
Kilauea's crater is active now without any doubt. The bottom of the pit was entirely
covered with a lake of fire, which lighted up the heavens above, the glow showing for
miles. There was constant and increasing activity. Three fountains of fire were playing in
the eastern part of the lake, and tossing up great showers of golden lava from 20 to 40
feet. More to the north, several cones were puffing steam and throwing out bright jets of
lava. Some fifteen acres, by actual survey, of burning fire! What a sight to bring wonder
to the hearts of men! Imagine if you can, looking downward, 600 ft. into a pit, where
shines a lake of liquid gold. The surface of the lake is hidden by great cakes of blackened
ice, and through the cracks and breaks, there shows the glowing gold. Now at one side of
this bright glowing pool, there gushes forth a yellow fiery fountain, spreading into
streams molten of gold. And as these golden rivers come rushing pushing on, the jet
black cakes of ice break up, and pieces like great rafts, go floating swiftly onward, till
each is melted in a sea of gold, all soon again to blacken dark as night. The flow is
constant, this spring of gold, tossing its fiery billows, every moment through the night
and day, keeps boiling on. And as the dawn approaches, the twinkling stars fade out.
Each detail now is studied about the molten lake. The golden splendor now changes into
a crimson red. The tossing fount still gushes on, and glowing streams like fiery snakes
still move across the lake. 'Tis hard to leave this grand great work of God.
Written while sitting at crater's edge. The lake filled up from 10-20 ft. during this
one night.
Third trip. The call of the mystic fires of Halemaumau was so strong, that another
trip was made on Wednesday Jan. 23rd. The lake was still more active, & steadily rising.
It is certainly one of the most wonderful of the world's great wonders, a marvelous
exhibition of nature's gigantic forces. The view should be seen by day as well as by night.
The great fires are so strong that they show brightly glowing in the midday sunlight. On
this visit the flow was so active that whole sections of the blackened surface of the lake,
would break up and be covered by the fiery lava. At one time 400 sq. ft. disappeared and
almost on the instant was covered with the fiery golden flow. It seemed the grandest sight
that could be seen by mortal man.
Edward W. Thwing, 22 Jan 1907
Illustration: Photograph looking down into pit of Halemaumau; molten lava has been
colored red. Page 317.
Leaving after a three days visit during which I visited the wonderful display of
Madam Pele on three occasions and which I consider a sight well worth a trip around the
world to see.
Eric Keeney, Wailuku, Maui, 25 Jan 1907
On an excursion from Honolulu to complete the sights and also to round Hawaii
Island by steamer. Arrived at the most glorious sight I've ever seen; Madam Pele's great
oven of fire which at the time I saw it was 3640 #feet across, at the bottom about 1320
feet & at a depth of 600 feet. After three days here will continue to see the lava flows
which are now active in the southern part of this island.
George Little, 25 Jan 1907
Underneath is a note:
# About 3 times too large. F.S.D.
Visited Halemaumau yesterday and it was the greatest sight I ever saw. After
riding and walking across the immense lava bed of Kilauea and marvelling at the strange
and awesome formations, it was wonderful indeed to look down into that immense pit
and watch Madame Pele manufacturing her grotesque lava formations, just such as we
had wondered at.
Madame Pele was very entertaining and gave a magnificent fountain display all
evening, sprays and showers of fire never ceasing. The immense lava flows which
streamed down from the highest side and never stopped flowing while we watched were
grand as they came tumbling down in fiery cascades. The fiery flow soon blackened over
only to crack in golden streaks or to burst open and be submerged entirely in a fiery lake.
At one time about one-third of the whole lake was a mass of fiery lava. It was too grand
to describe, such a study in black and gold as I never expect to see elsewhere.
M.M. Pollard, Regina, Calif., 26 Jan 1907
After spending 3 days seeing Kilauea, will return in the morning via Honuapo, per
steamer Mauna Loa. I consider the sight I have seen worth traveling around the world to
see, I regret very much that I must leave the grandest sight, any pair of eyes can view.
Chas. J. Hummel, Honolulu, 26 Jan 1907
The sight I saw at the crater this afternoon was so grand that I am unable to
describe it. I do not expect to witness such a display again, nor do I expect to have such
an attack of cold feet.
K.B. Porter, Honolulu, 27 Jan 1907
Resolved:--That Halemaumau with its display of fireworks--chain lightning-thunder--falls of Niagara and cascades of St. Lawrence and so forth and so on is the
grandest and most magnificent sight imaginable. Your eyes alone can picture falls and
rivers of fire so I am glad you are here and hope that you may be as fortunate as I.
Laura Cole, Los Angeles, California, 27 Jan 1907
I have resolved to be "better" after having seen fire and brimstone bubbling forth
from Halemaumau.
We were all de-light-ed with the whole trip.
Dorothi Willi, Sacramento, Cal., 27 Jan 1907
It has been my good fortune to be here and see Kilauea in a state of activity, and
the spectacle has perhaps been the most impressive in my life. It takes time and
contemplation for one to realize the greatness and significance of the phenomenon, and to
form some slight idea of the vast store of energy, deep under our feet, which is here
finding an outlet.
James M. Steel, Waialua, Oahu, 29 Jan 1907
Our party arrived here as a Valentine and was glad to look over the vast chasm
made by one of nature's moods. Our trip to the crater was made in the afternoon and the
return at night. A trip never to be forgotten. One that everybody should take. A look over
the edge of the crater at the living hell of fire will show how small the human being is. It
is grand by any description. No artist can paint, no author describe, beyond the mere
commonplace. I will go again to see.
Frank M. Barr, San Diego, California, 15 Feb 1907
Great changes since 1883 when as a boy I visited the crater. I was delighted,
however, to find a little of Pele's Hair today at the Kau end, & certainly the fountain I
saw this evening reminds one of its old time grandeur.
T.C. Davis, Honolulu, 17 Feb 1907
The writer of the following lines came to Hawaii in 1850. In April 1867 he first
paid a visit to this remarkable locality and now, after a lapse of forty years, lacking two
months, he finds himself lost in wonderment and delight in again viewing the scenes, that
as a young man of thirty-two filled his mind with thoughts of the inconceivably great &
mighty forces still at work in adding to & slowly changing the aspect of this part of
Hawaii.
On the occasion of my first visit in April 1867 the phenomena observable in the
pit of Halemaumau were of such nature that no pen could adequately describe nor brush
of artist properly portray the overpoweringly terrible & yet beautiful scene, that met the
eye on reaching the locus in quo of a volcanic display, unique in its kind in the whole
world. Poor as are the words that come to me I feel constrained to put on record my
recollections of those long passed days. As nearly as I can remember the depth of the
then pit was about, from the boiling lava to the uppermost rim, in the neighbourhood of
two hundred & fifty feet. The bottom of the present pit is, I am informed, about fifteen
acres in extent, a little over a third of which is at present active. The whole of the bottom
of the crater was, at the date of my first visit, one seething, boiling mass of molten rock.
This molten liquid mass was tossed into waves as is the ocean in a storm. It was thrown
in spray over the top of the pit and dashed against the sides thereof with fearful force &
fury. In addition to the activity of the contents of this great pit in 1867, there were six so
called lakes, each and all intensely interesting in the phenomena exhibited. After my visit
I wrote thereof to an English Scientific Journal an account of what I had seen, and poor as
it probably was I regret I have no copy of it to refer to, but I will endeavor to briefly
describe the remarkable phenomena which I certainly can never forget. The molten lava
which constituted the lake was but a few inches below the level of the floor of the great
crater of Kilauea. Ever and anon the "lakes" from being almost white hot would by the
radiation of their heat become only brightly red and so down through all shades of
brilliancy to the dullest of dull reds, and thence on to blackness as the radiated heat
permitted a cooling and solidifying of the erstwhile liquid mass. This blackness lasted but
a very short time. In a few minutes the comparatively cool surface contracting and
condensing split up in innumerable directions, showing the molten mass below through
fantastically shaped cracks, the eye being smitten by the brilliant beauty of the scene,
electric in its surpassing grandeur & suggestiveness. The broken and divided masses
toppled up and sank into the again living lake of liquid fire. These processes continued
through the night. At that time Sir William Thompson, now Lord Kelvin, was making
laboratory experiments tracking the conditions of a cooling molten globe and he
described from the experience gained, processes that my eyes had looked upon
proceeding in one of Nature's greatest laboratories, & so it came about that I wrote & sent
my letter forty long years ago! On the occasion spoken of I was alone with a guide. We
had to wend our way between those fiery lakes that at times overflowed. On this my
second visit during the fifty-six years I have lived on these Islands I was one of a party
consisting of my two married daughters ...my grandsons...Mr. and Mrs. Eric Knudsen
were also of the party.
The Japanese have a number of trained seismologists in Dai Nippon supplied with
all necessary instruments and apparatus for marking and recording the phenomena that so
often occur in their beautiful land. They are not a rich people as far as dollars go, but they
do as I have stated. I cannot but think that the Congress of this great and rich Republic,
would certainly, the matter being properly represented, supply means to keep an educated
scientist to observe and record the various wonderful natural phenomena of the locality of
Hawaii's great volcano, the most accessible in the world.
Charles F. Hart, 20 Feb 1907
The pen may be mightier than the sword and in instances the brush than the pen,
but they both utterly fail in the endeavor to portray the truly awful forces that are
continually at work in the depths of Kilauea.
W.H. Soper, 23 Feb 1907
From our Oregon home we can see six beautiful snow-clad mountains...and the
scenery on the Colombia River is hardly surpassed in the world, and yet with all this in
our mind we can say we never saw anything so grand and never expect to see again so
great a sight as we saw Sunday afternoon and evening Feb. 24th 1907 in viewing the
burning lake in the crater of Kilauea.
We were entertained royally at the Volcano House ...
F.N. Gilbert, Portland, Oregon, 26 Feb 1907
(With apologies to "Tit-Willow")
A tourist named Watt
By the crater did squat
Ohelo ohelo ohelo
To see from the pit
Madam Pele up-spit
Ohelo ohelo ohelo
But she ne'er uttered a sound
Nor the lava turned round
So he swore that the Goddess
Him had treated with hardness
But he had scare made a turn
When with a terrible churn
She blew him almost into --Hell-o.
W.H. Soper, 27 Feb 1907
This being my first trip to this wonderful place and after a visit of 10 days I regret
that duty calls me away. The great pleasure I experienced while at this beautiful mountain
home, is not alone due to the great activity of Kilauea, the beautiful surroundings and the
excellent climate, but also to the unequalled manner in which Demosthenes, our
congenial host, entertains all visitors to his hostelry ...
Frank O. Boyer, Engineer Rapid Transit Co., Honolulu, 12 March 1907
It is with extreme satisfaction and appreciation that I visited the volcano for the
first time. The fierce grandeur of it all defies expression by pen or language in any
manner....
Dr. Erasmus W. Carson, Cataline Island, Calif., 13 March 1907
The United States has within its borders several wonders--the Niagara Falls, the
Grand Canyon, and the geysers of the Yellowstone National Park. The volcano in action
surpasses them all in grandeur and magnificence. Friday evening the display was all that
could be desired.
Carl Martin ___, Honolulu, Sixth visit, 16 March 1907
My first visit to Madame Pele, and the lady very grandly responded to my visit. I
am an Australian, born in Sydney and I am proud of our beautiful Harbour, but Madame
in her glory today has enshrined herself in my heart. The Harbour I may forget but
Madame never. I have visited New Zealand the land of beauty and wonder, and there is
no comparison with Rotorua and the volcano of Hawaii. Goodbye Madame Pele, let us
not meet in the next world as I am scared of your form of beauty in this goodbye and not
Au Revoir.
Alice Heapy, Sydney, Australia, 24 March 1907
Seeing that my better half has contributed a few lines to this book, I believe it is
up to me to scribble a line or two, hoping that those who may visit this enchanting and
instructive domain of Madame Pele after us, and who may not find her in such an
entertaining mood as she was this a.m. may know, that her ladyship like the rest of
Nature has moods, and like the inhabitants of our globe when we call on them, sometimes
we find them active, and sometimes otherwise, nevertheless we take our chances as to
which mood they may be in and generally manage to have a pleasant visit, such is true of
this noted part of the world. Under ordinary circumstances you are assured of a highly
pleasant visit, whether the pit be active or not. If she be active, and very active you may
feel that the Madame has risen from the depths in the form of fire to acknowledge your
visit. With many thanks to Pele's acknowledgement of our visit to her home this a.m., I
close, like all travelled persons, with the intention of seeing new sights in other lands, but
with the hope that I may ere many years, call again, and be as welcome as we were
apparently this morning. The morning was misty but cleared off by 1 p.m. We were at the
brink of the pit about 10:30 a.m. leaving at 11:30 a.m. Never did one hour pass so fast for
the sight was so fascinating.
Stafford Heapy, Liverpool, England, 27 March 1907
After a most delightful it is with regret we say goodbye. Madame Pele has been
grand.
E.A.C., Maquoketa, Iowa, 1 April 1907
I arrived here on April 12.4.07. and found the crater as represented on page 308
by survey of E.D. Baldwin. Looking S. from the observation point 7 near the shelter
house the edge of the crater bottom was to be seen at an angle of 6.5 degrees at the point
a. On the eastern side of the crater there was two patches of newly broken down lava.
Very little steam at the points b.c.d. As the Japanese guide informed me, the fire had
disappeared on April 10 late in the night. On April 14 I made a trip to the hill Kulani
about seven miles north from Kilauea with a native Kaina, formerly working for O.
Shipman and now for the Mahogany C.
As I was informed, fire reappeared on the 13 evening. Out the 14 evening
between 11 1/2 and 12 1/2 I noticed four times a brilliant glow of light in a smoke cloud
above Halemaumau. Judging from the white color of the glow, the lava in the pit must
have been extremely hot. The illumination had a duration of only a few seconds.
On April 15 I visited Halemaumau again. There was a blowhole of about 15 feet
(?) in the bottom of the pit and a quite glossy-looking thick lava stream as represented in
the second figure. The blowhole was irregularly active. I counted 50 times in 30 seconds
the noise of escaping steam; the liquid lava was thrown in the air mostly only a few feet,
sometimes arriving to about 10 ft. As the opening was not quite on the top of the small
cone but on the S.E. side, the action of the blowhole was better observable from the
observation point N.2.
For determining the distances and levels I made with a Brunton compass the
following measurements.
[Here he has drawn some sketches.]
As the distance of the points 1 and 2 can easily be taken from the previous
surveys the distances and levels of the blowhole and the bottom of the pit can be
calculated with the help of trigonometrical and logarithmical tables, which unfortunately
are missing at the Hotel's library. I hope that the next surveyor coming to this place will
do the calculating using my data.
Now a few advices to other tourists and geologists. The "Kulani" with fine
weather must have one of the finest views but I was unfortunate with rain. Anyhow the
forest pass is so thick, that a visit is hardly worthwhile. The eruption of Kulani happened
long ago; no crater left; scoriae and lava deeply decomposed. The bottom of Kilauea iki
and specially the ridge between Kilauea iki and Kilauea ought to be visited; a lava flow
came out of this ridge and came down in Kilauea iki; while another part of the same lava
came from the same ridge to Kilauea, flowing out a little below the summit. Castings of
trees are to be seen in the lava of the Kilauea iki side. The Kau side of Kilauea is
extremely interesting and shows evidence of explosive eruptions. Round trip to be made
on foot.
Immanuel Friedlander, Naples, Italy, 12 April 1907
Illustrations: Two rough drawings, by I. Friedlaender, showing changes in Halemaumau
12 and 15 April 1907. Page 337.
Diagrams, by I. Friedlaender, showing how Brunton compass measurements are used to
determine depth of pit. Page 338.
The journey over the miles of the crater, dark and dead, with waves and hills and
crevasses, steam and sulphur, the return at night in the weird darkness: it makes one think
of the morning of creation when the world was without form and void and darkness
brooded over the face of the deep--one half expects to hear the voice of the Almighty call
again "Let there be light."
The look into Halemaumau--especially at night, with its living eyes of fire. I
know of nothing in the earth nor under the earth with which to compare it.
Chas. A. Payne, 18 April 1907
After a number of days quietness in the crater, the fire returned again last night.
The cone on the north side of the pit has been quite busy, lava was spouting out of it
every few minutes, to the height of about 50 to 75 feet approximately, and at times a
stream of red hot lava was oozing out from its side at pretty good rate. This afternoon a
stream of lava flowing from the above cone, went almost clear round the whole floor of
the pit.
D. Lycurgus, 12 May 1907
Just came home from one of the greatest trips of my life--makes one think of what
may be hereafter--first smoke then bright tongues of fire--it was a most glorious sight-but the best of all is the trip in the dark by the light of a good cigar--and with a surefooted horse which I promised a poi cocktail when I arrived at the hotel--we came home
all hail and happy--with Sunny Jim--top side up.
R. Batchelder, 16 May 1907
Wonderful!--the crater.
E.Y. Webb, 22 May 1907
"It's simply Hell!"
Chas. T. Chillingworth, 22 May 1907
A wonderful exhibition of volcanic action.
D.S. Alexander, Buffalo, New York, 21-3 May 1907
I have visited this hotel and the volcano with three Congressional parties and
think this is the best of all.
W.D. Smith, 22 May 1907
On May 21, 1907 a party of twenty-three U.S. Congressmen left Hilo for the
volcano of Mauna Loa. We came twenty miles by rail and ten miles by carriage, arriving
at the Volcano House at 11 o'clock. We were given lunches and started for the pit at 2
p.m. Some went on foot and some rode horses. The main crater as it appears now is about
five miles in diameter and from one hundred and fifty to three hundred feet deep. The
floor of the crater is covered by lava which overflowed in 1894. There is a trail across
this crater about three miles to the pit. This pit is about 1600 ft in diameter and 300 ft.
deep. A dense column of smoke is constantly pouring forth making it rarely possible to
see the bottom. For several hundred feet surrounding this pit there are great cracks and
fissures in the rock from which heat is constantly escaping. We reached this pit about
four o'clock and spent some time in gazing at the different points of interest which abut
this great phenomenon of nature. The committee in charge served a fine dinner prepared
in the crater, cooked by the heat of the volcano and served in picnic fashion on the verge
of the pit. It was most interesting and unique frolic of our visit to the islands and a fitting
climax to three weeks of as fascinating sight-seeing as can be found anywhere on the
globe....
J. Warren Keifer, Springfield, Ohio and 22 other Congressmen, 22 May 1907
The longer one remains the better he likes the place.
D.S. Alexander, Buffalo, New York, 21-23 May 1907
Last night the guide with Mr. & Mrs. Blair of San Francisco and Mr. Donahue of
Morenci Arizona, visited Halemaumau and reported that they have seen plenty of red hot
cracks. This, of course, showed that it will not be very long before reaching the surface of
the pit floor. Early this morning we notice from the house porch, that the smoke and
steam have disappeared entirely, which was a good sign that the crater was or about to be
very active. Truly enough, the guide who went down to see about it, brought the news
that it was very active and that the big "hole" that sunk down some weeks ago is rapidly
filling up.
D. Lycurgus, 28 May 1907
The story of the fire goddess Pele would take a long time in the telling. She was
courted and had battle with Kamapuaa--the pig man from Oahu. She chased Kaawali the
handsome chief of Puna into the sea--hurling floods of flowing lava after him because he
scornfully called her an old woman. She heard of the fame of Lohiau a chief of Kauai and
visited that island, married him--returned to her home in the pit of Kilauea--sent her sister
to bring him to Hawaii--became jealous and angry--killed her sister's friends, shook up
the region around the volcano with earthquakes and lava flows, and at last when Lohiau
came she killed him in her own home the lua Pele (pit of Pele)--and grieved sorely when
she found that her sister and Lohiau had been true to her.
Then came the anger of the other Kauai chiefs who were friends of Lohiau.
Finally six chiefs came from Kauai to wage war with Pele and destroy her if possible.
Battles were fought in the older part of the great crater--the region now covered with
verdure below the Volcano House. These chiefs and their friends were conquered. Two
of them escaped to Kauai but four were destroyed and their names given to picturesque
points in the region about the crater.
#1. Hale-ma'u-ma'u = "House of the fern" was a very great kahuna or priest-powerful in charms and incantations. When he was killed his memory was perpetuated by
naming a place now back of the Volcano House--Hale-ma'u-ma'u. White people recently
have given this name to the pit of Pele--which never _____ it among the natives. The
right name of the pit is Ka Lua Pele--"the Pit of Pele."
#2. Uwekahuna--another priest and mighty warrior whose name was given to the
lower hill on the mauka side of the crater. The larger hill is Mohoali, a brother of Pele.
#3. Kaa-ea--a hill (perhaps) on the southern side of the crater.
#4. Ka-ua-nahu-nahu--became a hill or rather a ledge of black lava south of goat
crater.
#5-6. Kalaninaula and Kapueuli were two chiefs who escaped to Kauai. The great
precipice between Kilauea Iki and the path is called Pali Kanaea--The Precipice of the
Battle of the Strangers.
W.D. Westervelt, 31 May -3 June 1907
Capt. & Mrs. J.B. Findlay take great pleasure in adding to the many testimonials
here their appreciation of the great pleasure afforded by a visit to the pleasant Volcano
House and the wonderful craters seen by moonlight and in an active state--a most
impressive and beautiful spectacle.
Capt. & Mrs. J.B. Findlay, 16 June 1907
B. von Damm also wants to testify to old Pele that her sights can not be
duplicated anywheres and wants to thank her for the splendid and awe inspiring spectacle
she presented to those guests of the Volcano House who had the good luck to spend the
night at the brink of the crater.
B. von Damm, 19 June 1907
Today we went down to Halemaumau. No fire. Alec and I went over to a heat
crack to warm the coffee. When it got hot it boiled over, then he put it on a warm spot
after corking it. The place was very much warmer than it was supposed to be the can
went "plunk" and Alec uncorked it. The illustration below shows what happened. The
coffee blew 4 feet in the air and fell on us. I was rather hot.
C. McConnell, Easton, Md., 20 June 1907
Illustration: Drawing of coffee in Log Cabin Syrup container exploding. Page 346.
...Madame Pele was in grand form last night.
Herbert B. Tullett, Oakland, Cal., 6 July 1907
Pele has been good to us.
F.H. Buckland, Honolulu, 8 July 1907
Last night the crater was very active, the lava boiling and splashing in a continual
turmoil. Three flows were sent out from the lake, and the whole display was most
impressive. We returned to the Volcano House at 9:30.
Curtis E. Shields, 10 July 1907
Visited the crater and found it much changed since my visit in 1892. the active
portion is much smaller but is full of change and appears to be increasing its area, which
seems to be from 60 to 100 feet in diameter.
Arch. Dods, Lahaina, Maui, 10 July 1907
Visited the crater last night, magnificently active.
O.F. Boardman, Waialae, Oahu, 10 July 1907
Yesterday July 9th at 11 a.m. Mr. H. Vicars, Thos. S. Kay and myself visited
Halemaumau and found extraordinary activity. There was a lake of fire about 75 x 75 feet
approximately boiling and bubbling fiercely. There was but few minutes past after our
arrival, when we saw this lake of fire rising slowly until came clear over and above the
pit floor, then with a fierce dash against the rim of the lake, burst through and like a
cataract, flowed down upon the floor then spread over it to a width of about 50 feet, and
in 20 minutes it reached almost the end of the pit, when suddenly sunk down again to
about 10 feet, but only for a few minutes when again the lake started rising, this time it
took only 3 minutes to overflow, and the liquid red hot lava was flowing in greater
quantity than the first time. It formed a river of fire about 75 feet and before sinking
down again it reached the length of about 750 feet. This process was going on, in almost
every 25 minutes, as we had three different flows in an hour and 15 minutes.
D. Lycurgus, 10 July 1907
A visit of two weeks at the Volcano House during one of Madame Pele's active
periods gave us ample opportunity to renew our acquaintance with "her majesty" whose
present behavior reminds us of '88 and '94. To those who knew her then this will suggest
great activity.
Some of our party spent the evening of the "Glorious Fourth" in the crater
viewing nature's wonderful fireworks.
July 8, we all spent the day at the pit. We were surprised and delighted at the
brilliant display, even in the bright sunlight.
Four hours at the lake, July 9, gave us several phases of activity. Besides the two
lava flows and three very active fountains, we saw a cone formed from which there were
frequent explosions, furnishing more brilliant fireworks than any Roman candles we ever
saw.
All this made us very loth to leave even at one o'clock in the morning.
On the evening of July 10, the view from the hotel was exceedingly beautiful. The
clouds were brightly illuminated while the light directly over the crater was so intense
that one could easily imagine it to be veritable flame.
Josephine Deyo, 12 July 1907
Fire returned again in the pit of Halemaumau this evening at 7:15 p.m. but not
very much, only a small flow occurred, when first exploded, the rest of the time was only
a little fire visible in a cone on the south end of Pit.
D. Lycurgus, 25 July 1907
About 6:45 p.m. a huge black cloud somewhat resembling the above illustration
was noticed from the Volcano House. It resembled a distant thunderstorm as flashes of
lightning played through the cloud at intervals.
At 7:45 p.m. The cloud began to disappear, spreading out into a "fan-shape" and
growing thinner.
At 8:30 p.m. The cloud had entirely disappeared.
People at the Hawaiian Mahogany Lumber Co's camp saw the eruption. Three
huge columns of flame showed through the smoke at intervals when the eruption started.
Sept. 11th. About 4:00 a.m. a very pronounced glow was noticed from the
Hawaiian Mahogany Lumber Co's camp on Mauna Loa on the other side of the "Red
Hill."
B. Cartwright, 10 Sept 1907
Illustration: Photo titled "Eruption of Mauna Loa Sept 10th 1907," showing smoke cloud.
Page 357.
Arrived from Hilo Sept. 12 and leave for Pahala today; have spent a pleasant
week, had good weather, except the last two days. Fourth visit to
Madame Pele, sorry she was not here. 1887-1898-1906-1907.
Johannes F. Eckardt, 22 Sept 1907
The Halemaumau Road--During the visit of the congressional party at this place,
Demosthenes Lycurgus, the Host, urged the necessity of a road into the crater. This
started the ball a rolling.
Governer Frear soon after his inauguration, gave orders to have the road surveyed.
The Territorial Surveyor W.E. Wall sent a man to do this work. And on Sept. 2nd 1907
the work of surveying the road was begun and was kept up through rain, fog and other
difficulties until Oct. 2nd on which date the field work was finished and the survey an
accomplished fact, making a road of easy grades, about 7 1/2 miles in length, to be exact,
39,400 lin. ft.
On Sept. 6-7 a party of convicts arrived at the Volcano House from Honolulu, to
improve their health and enjoy the climate found here, and incidentally to build the
Halemaumau Road.
They were employed clearing the right of way and other work until Sept. 23rd and
on that date the first actual construction of the new road began and now the work is going
merrily on.
C.H. Smith, 3 Oct 1907
A note at the bottom of the page says;
Road finished July 26, 1910.
On Oct. 2nd I visited the pit called Halemaumau and found things somewhat as
sketched above. After waiting two hours for the smoke to clear away I took a couple
shots at the gas pipe in the bottom and found the distance to the floor to be 450 feet and
the vent 460 feet from the edge of the pit.
C.H. Smith, 3 Oct 1907
Illustration: Cross section of Halemaumau, 2 Oct 1907, by C.H. Smith, including depth,
with Devil at bottom of pit. Page 359.
HALEMAUMAU--Kilauea Volcano--The Trip of November 3rd 1907-The following persons spent the whole morning + in viewing the splendor of
natural fireworks, displayed in all her grandeur. +++++ And it's needless to note more.
But go and see the home of eternal fires and get an object lesson on the hereafter.
Mr. and Mrs. Robert Hutton, Wainaka, Hilo, and party, 3 Nov 1907
The volcano became active again today after a quietness of about 7 months. Miss
Hattie Hitchcock was the first one saw the glow from the Volcano House at 9 p.m. and
drew everybody's attention to it. The whole of Halemaumau was lit up thus made it look
very brilliant from the house.
The following day Mr. A.M. Willson and Chas. Lycurgus made a trip to the pit.
They found only a little cone formed on the Volcano House end of the pit With flames of
fire, but no lava flows or fountain, in the evening the fire disappeared again.
D. Lycurgus, 30 Nov 1907
Crater as seen Dec. 7 '07, 1:30 A.M.
W.A. Wall, 7 Dec 1907
Illustration: Small pencil cross section of Halemaumau, 7 Dec 1907, by W.A. Wall, with
measurements. Page 368.
Just returned from the volcano. She was in action.
W.E. Dashwood, San Francisco, 9 Dec 1907
Arrived at the Volcano House at 11 a.m. Dec. 9/07. Proceeded to have luncheon
and then took a short walk to the extinct Kilauea-iki. About 4 o'clock our party, some on
foot and some on horses, started for Halemaumau. We scorched our postal cards over
cracks in the lava, tied our horses up in the corral and finished our journey on foot.
Arrived at the shack we found Mme. Pele's wrath had been aroused by the advent of so
many from the "Land of flowers" and she was putting forth her best efforts to send up to
us a warm and fervent greeting--"Faciles Decensus Amerni" thought I and thereupon
made one of the good resolutions with which Hades is paved. Our guide took us over to
the other side where we stood on a little ledge and looked down into the boiling seething
cauldron. One and all we were entranced and hated to leave the awe-inspiring spectacle.
We promised ourselves another trip tonight of which more anon.
Mrs. Michael A. Fisher, San Francisco, 9 Dec 1907
I visited the crater of Halemaumau Dec. 12th & 14th and found it quite active.
Helen G. Henshall, 16 Dec 1907
The volcano is great. Madam Pele was very kind, and gave us a hearty welcome.
W. Burrows Henshall, 16 Dec 1907
The crater has kept up a mild activity during the past week. Like Halemaumau
within the great circle of Kilauea, there is a small pit, or crater, within the confines of
Halemaumau and it is this smaller pit that is now active. Molten lava is constantly
surging and splashing with noises which echo amid Halemaumau's walls much like the
surf splashing on ocean shores. Two days ago a heavy landslide from the Puna edge of
the crater took place, covering a large portion of the bottom of Halemaumau.
George T. Henshall, 18 Dec 1907
Christmas day, warm and beautiful, we arrived and after a good dinner and a
night's rest we visited the crater. It was more or less active, and we felt repaid for the
visit.
W.H. Redway, Caldwell, Idaho, 25 Dec 1907
We visited Madam Pele last night and witnessed a grand display of her powers.
We too have decided to be "good" from this time forth. The return walk from the pit on a
dark night is indeed one that will develop one's physical powers. We appreciated the
kindness shown by all at the hotel.
A. Jones, Mesa City, Arizona, 9 Jan 1908
Visited the volcano late this afternoon and wondered. The crowd I was with all
agreed we had our money's worth.
George Williams, Hot Springs, Ark., 9 Jan 1908
We have travelled 1800 miles from the Orange River Colony, South Africa, but have
been amply repaid for our trouble by the wonderful sight of Kilauea.
Maud Debell, Jagersfontein, South Africa, 13 Jan 1908
A very satisfactory visit to the crater, the most wonderful place seen in many
thousands of miles of travel. The tree ferns are beautiful and a trip to the tree moulds and
the koa forest and mahogany mill added to the pleasure of the trip. The Volcano House is
conducted in a manner very satisfactory to our party.
Mr. and Mrs. A.C. Baumgartner, San Francisco, 18 Jan 1908
The lava flows, hardened into grotesque & horrible forms and anon into graceful
dreams of beauty or into the fluted Corinthian columns of never-to-be-seen passed
architecture--the bed itself a dark Plutonian shore: both my wit and imagination fail me to
do justice to what I have seen this day. Had the lava been flowing, the impression might
have been different, but could not have been more overwhelming....
David Moore, Resident Bishop, Portland, Ore., 23 Jan 1908
The above illustration drawn by Miss Florence Gunney of Honolulu, represents
the crater and its action during the past few days. The occasional explosions of the active
cone would discharge a volley of semi liquid lava in a thousand fragments from a pound
to several hundred pounds in weight, some of them reaching a height of from 75 to a
hundred feet, and vividly illuminating the crater walls.
The Volcano House is rather an inn than a hotel, and is conducted with a freedom
from the stiffness and the haughty distance which is so often observed between the
management and the guests in "hotels;" this creates a pleasant cordiality which
approximates that of the informal and hospitable relations that exist between the family
of a private house and their guests.
Sanford B. Dole, 10 Feb 1908
Illustration: Shaded pencil sketch of Halemaumau, by Florence Gunney, including lava
spouting from cone shown in red ink, Feb 1908. Page 377.
Think of all the good ink wasted, in describing this place. Of course it's a grand
sight. But then, it looks too much like the orthodox Hell to be comfortable.
Wm. Dietz, Seattle, 23 Feb 1908
After a three weeks' stay at the Volcano House, we are saying goodbye with
deepest regret. Every day has been full of pleasure, and every one has been most kind to
us--even Madam Pele has stirred herself to unusual activity and the pit that was 425 feet
deep when we arrived has filled up until it is now by actual measurements, only 302 feet.
We shall never forget the wonderful sight that we saw last Sunday when we spent the
entire day at the crater--nor how good the pie that Charlie sent to us tasted! We only wish
we could stay three weeks longer.
Christiana M. Wall, 25 Feb 1908
Arrived at the Volcano House the 25th by way of Kau. Mr. Cecil Brown, Miss
Irene Dickson & self went down to the pit the next day, had a grand show of Madam
Pele. Will never forget the grand display--being my first visit--and worth the trouble of
travelling all that distance. Having the time of my life! We leave this p.m. for Hilo. This
being the last day of the month, hope it will not be our or my last visit here. A beautiful
spot it is. Aloha to Pele.
Carrie Sharratt, 29 Feb 1908
I am again greatly impressed by the grandeur of the crater of Kilauea on this my
second visit. It is certainly one of the wonders of the world which no one should miss an
opportunity to see. My first visit to the crater was on March 18, 1892 when the lake of
fire Halemaumau was one great boiling seething cauldron, to fully describe which my
vocabulary fails.
While it is a disappointment not to see the crater as active as then, yet I feel amply
repaid for the visit, and fully share the enthusiasm of the other members of our party, my
wife, and daughter Adeline, and Miss Jessie Orton.
Edwin L. Lobdell, 29 Feb 1908
...I think the traveling public will be convinced that my statement is right when I
say that nowhere in the world, can one sit and watch a natural wonder as long, and with
so much interest, as the crater of Kilauea.
At night as we looked below us three hundred feet at the cone, sending up molten
lava to a height of fifty & sixty feet, it reminded me very much of the Yellowstone
National Park in Wyoming.
After watching the lava flows for some two hours most of the party left, the few
of us who remained were more than repaid, for at eight p.m. we saw the large space
below us which had hitherto been black and cold suddenly melt up and form a lake
something in the neighborhood of five acres, which boiled and played about in the most
fantastic shapes. This sight I shall never forget, as it has been one of the most interesting,
which I have ever witnessed.
J.M. Fowler, Jr., Lafayette, Indiana, 29 Feb 1908
About four hours were spent today by Mrs. Baker and myself in making
photographs of the lava formations and of the crater of Halemaumau. We found these
things intensely interesting, and had ideal conditions for making good photographs. We
trust the negatives we made will prove to be good when developed. The lava beds make
good subjects for pictures especially the sulphur beds and lighter forms of lava, with
steam issuing from the cracks. From a technical point of view the crater is a very difficult
thing to photograph. The crater's walls are perpendicular and the lake of fire so far below
that it taxes to the utmost the range of a wide angle lens to give any idea of the place.
Then the pit is almost continually filled with blue smoke which tends to make the picture
hazy and indistinct. The volcanic formations, the lava beds and the crater were a constant
source of wonder to us.
Mr. and Mrs. R.J. Baker, Eureka, Calif., 29 Feb 1908
Paid a visit to Pele on each of these dates and found a different sight every time,
well worth the time and trouble of the trip. Enjoyed my stay of four days immensely.
F.E. Redfield, San Francisco, Calif., 27-28 Feb and 1 March 1908
We reached the volcano yesterday in an Orient buckboard from Kapapala after a
run of five hours through a rain storm and over very heavy roads. Today we visited the
six craters described on p. 234. [News article.] This is a trip which well repays the effort.
There was considerable steam in Makaopuhi. We then went to the Koa Lumber Camp
and at 3:30 left to visit the crater. The sketch of p. 377 [Feb 1908] shows the exact
condition today, but no lava was ejected from the cone, only a few sparks occasionally.
The floor we estimate to be 350 feet below the observation house.
G.C. Cooke, A. Gartley, 11 March 1908
The sketch referred to on p. 377 is dated Feb. 10.
We have spent a most pleasant week here. The volcano is more impressive, even
when inactive, than any of the thermal phenomena of New Zealand, and when, on our last
visit to the "Pit" we found the crater active, throwing out the molten lava to the height of
some 50-60 feet, we were well repaid for our trip to Hawaii.
J.T.A. Jose, 12-19 March 1908
It is like sitting in the front row of heaven watching Hell boil over. No grander
sight have we ever seen, never a finer display. And well worth the thousands of miles we
have come to see this volcano in play.
All Hawaii is one grand panorama of which none can give a fair description. The
favors shown by our host and the guides, we will commend to all, and sing their glory.
C.A. Hoffman, 20 March 1908
About 11 p.m. March 20 the cone broke open at the top, after being nearly closed
by previous small eruptions. Immense quantities of lava began to flow down the side
toward the shelter hut. Cracks kept increasing in number and brightness and within a
short time there was a river of fire which, dashing down the side of the cone, flowed in a
rapid stream to the right, breaking up the crust and carrying onward large pieces. This
river ran at considerable speed almost half the circumference of the crater, stopping and
being apparently dammed up on the side opposite to the cone. Two other streams flowed
from the cone in the opposite direction as shown in the illustration. At one time nearly
opposite to the cone there was a brilliant display as a large area of the crust sank with
great rapidity beneath the advancing waves of the fiery stream. Rumblings and
detonations were frequent and on four or five occasions molten lava was hurled from the
depths of the cone to a height of 100 to 150 feet, or half the height of the walls of the
crater. There was no dullness in any of the cracks of the crust; all were very bright and at
times some seemed at white heat. The most beautiful feature of the entire display was the
cascade of fire issuing from the cone and falling at an angle of say 45 degrees to the level
of the river below. This cascade was ever changing, showing new forms and new outlines
as it burst with tremendous force from the top and surged and raced and roared, tearing
away sections of its black walls and hurling them into the fiery torrent below. Its fall
must have been twenty feet, perhaps much more, and no wild mountain torrent could
show such terrific energy as behind this liquid rock was a pressure of gas that waved the
half cooled and viscid lava as a storm does the foliage of a forest. The banks of the
cascade put on new forms every moment. There on the right one saw a black overhanging
cliff. In an instant it was lost to view in the fiery swirl. Again it appeared but red hot;
from its sides streamed the cooling lava, forming stalactites that waved fantastically in
the hurricane of gaseous vapor. Below an arch formed, beneath which a miniature
Niagara raced to the rocks at the river's turn. Then this natural bridge fell crumbling into
the stream and was hurled in a thousand fragments into the depths. A sharp explosion
would come and up, up, up would rise a mass of fire, straight into one's face. You felt the
heat of the approaching fountain of fire and drew back from the rim. But its force was
spent half way up the 300 feet to the rim and as it spread out, fell back, burst into millions
of glowing stars, dotting the floor below like a tropic sky on a cloudless night. Your
imagination swept you from this realm of mortals and placed you side by side with the
Creator as he builded the heavens and the stars. Worlds were in the making and
transported back through eons of time you saw it all just as it occurred. But the night
breeze from Mauna Loa's crest swept down upon you and brought you back to this vale
of tears. The crater's heat glowed in your cheeks but the fires of hunger glowed also in
your stomach. Warm your hands and feet by pushing them over the rim but how to warm
the marrow of your bones was another question. We left at 2 a.m. and the Witches
Cauldron still bubbled and boiled, encroaching unceasingly on the remnant of black crust
that was being gnawed away by Madam Pele's white hot teeth and thousand twisting
tongues.
And may the peace of God which passeth all human understanding be and abide
with her forevermore. Amen.
And in testimony hereof each of us in the presence of the others have herewith
subscribed ourselves to the above said description and hereby declare that there is more
truth in it than in many of the previous descriptions--in fact we believe that we are the
most truthful men that are now at this hotel, or-or-or-yes-or have ever been.
C.N. Towle, Mapimi, Mexico, 21 March 1908
Illustration: Map view drawing titled "Appearance of Halemaumau March 21st 1908 at 2
a.m," by C.N. Towle, with molten lava shown in red ink. Page 386.
Spent nine days at the Volcano House being detained on the Island of Hawaii and
enjoyed each succeeding day better than its predecessors, gained seven pounds in weight
and had a jolly good rest. Visited the crater several times. 17th March walked to the
crater alone in the morning and spent several hours there, during which time I walked
around it. The lava on the far side is decomposing rapidly and breaks off and up when
trodden on and gives one the impression and especially when alone as being unsafe. The
pit, I was told, is 302 feet deep and 1800 ft across and in the lower northwest corner a
cone was spouting at intervals and making a loud rumbling noise. Walking slowly it took
three quarters of an hour to walk around the crater and one hour and seven minutes from
the edge to the Volcano House. 19th went down with a party and reached the pit about
5:00 p.m. The cone was very active and soon after arriving we saw a fine sight as a lake
covering about one fifth of the floor area formed. The cone blew off its top and ran and
threw out lava at a very rapid rate. To describe it is impossible. Walked back to the hotel
reaching there about 11:00 p.m. 20th. Again went down, having had an early dinner,
walked with Demosthenes arriving just as darkness set in. We had not been there ten
minutes when the cone blew its head off and for five hours we saw a sight that cannot be
surpassed. Three separate streams were flowing from the cone and running around the
bottom as three rivers would run. 21st. The sight was even finer than the previous night
as at the foot a large flow was running like a spring and bubbling up as one sees a spring
bubble. The cone again blew its head off and ran in two large flows. 24th. Visited the six
craters, a sight well worth seeing especially the last, "Eye of the Eel" which is 1500 ft.
deep. Left on 25th. Third visit, previous ones August 1904, November 1905.
J.W. Waldron, Honolulu, 25 March 1908
Pleased, pleased, highly pleased. The party leaving this morning have not perhaps
seen "the best ever" but we have seen three wonderful exhibitions. Our first visit was at
night March 25th, the cone was active and there were several large flows. Our second
visit was in the afternoon of March 26th. We were greatly pleased with effect in daytime,
the basin of the crater appearing much larger than at night. This evening we had a
splendid show of fireworks from the cone which spouted lava in glorious spray high and
wide while the floor of the lake presented the appearance of fiery lacery.
J.R. McLaughlin, Seattle, Wa., 27 March 1908
The following is translated by Dorothy Barrere from Hawaiian.
Haalele i ka Volcano House ika hora eha o ka ahiahi. Hiki i ka lua i ka hora 5. I ke
ike ahi akawahine, ame kana mau hana kupanaha. Ua like me ke waikahe, e holo ana
apuni ka lua, e halulu ana e like meke poi ana aka nalu, ao ke ahi nohoi e hoolei ana no
10 kapuai ke kiekie, a hu mai nohoi kekahi ua like me na wai lele. Nui ka mahalo ia Pele
ua ike maka, nolaila e hele e ike i ka moiwahine o ka luapeale aole hoi e lohe pepeiao.
Meka oiaio.
Left the Volcano House at 4 o'clock in the afternoon. Arrived at the pit at a5. Saw
the eruption of the Woman, and her many wondrous works. [The lava] was like flowing
water, and ran about the crater; it shook like the breaking of waves, and the fire went up
10 feet in height and some gushed forth like a waterfall. Great is the admiration for Pele
when seen, so go and see the Queen of the Luapele, don't just hear about it. Sincerely.
Mrs. Henry Cockett, 27 March 1908
When I looked in her fiery furnace I realized the power of the Creator.
Mabel Vaughan Freeman, 30 March 1908
Of all grand sights that I have been fortunate enough to be an eye-witness,
nothing has so much impressed me as the crater as it appeared in all its wondrous glory
the night of March 22nd. To stand at the edge of this gigantic cauldron and watch the
rushing, roaring, seething mass of molten lava as it was hurled in all its fury from the
cone, reminded me more of the Rapids at Niagara as they tore along, bounding over
boulders, than anything else I can think of. I had heard many descriptions of the crater in
activity but without being an eye-witness, I hardly see how it is possible for any one to
get a true idea of its grandeur. Unfortunately the crater is erratic, so that it is not possible
for all who come to see what I consider the chance of a life-time & having had the
experience, having taken the delightful interesting trip to the seven craters and having
added six or seven pounds to the weight of each of my four children for whose benefit
this trip was made, I go home after four weeks singing nothing but praise for the Volcano
House & its surroundings.
Molly Alatau Wilder, 2 April 1908
I was very glad to have been able to see the crater when it was active.
Helen Kinau Wilder, 2 April 1908
Have just returned from the crater, where we bid farewell to Madam Pele and her
house of fire. Tomorrow morning we leave for Honolulu, after a three days stay at the
Volcano House where we had the most pleasant, profitable and in some ways the most
wonderful time in our lives. A thousand times repaid, and simply impossible to describe
what we have seen, and experienced while viewing the world's greatest wonder. Our hope
and desire of
years has been fulfilled.
A.O. Hushan, 11 April 1908
Guided by Mr. Lycurgus and accompanied by two ladies, I visited the crater,
starting about 4:30 p.m. The scene was very different to that presented on my previous
visit (Dec. 1905). At that time the lava was about 600 feet below the brink and scarcely
alive, fire being sometimes visible through the thick smoke, but never to any extent.
Today, the lava has risen to probably less than 150 ft. from the top and is in constant
motion throughout most of the mass. A "cone," which I hesitatingly estimate at 50 feet
long by 30 ft. high, is situated to the northeast, comparatively near the edge of the pit.
(The crater appears much as in the sketch on p. 377 except that now the cone is scarcely
cone-shaped, and is apparently broader than its height.) There are three orifices, one at
the summit mostly blowing off gas, two lateral which at very brief intervals send out
showers of fiery spray & a stream of red hot lava, while at the same time a basal pool of
fire violently surges. The sound of the explosions is like musketry. The whole floor of the
pit (Halema'uma'u) is traversed by lines & streams of red hot lava, narrowing, widening,
sometimes quiescent, more often in violent agitation. After dark, the action--even
allowing for the increased brightness due to nightfall--became gradually more powerful,
the explosions becoming more frequent, the lines & streams on the floor wider & longer.
From the amount of lava outpoured, the pit must inevitably become filled up in a few
months, unless the contents fall through.
I have visited Vesuvius in eruption. There the conditions are entirely different.
Instead of a sheer-walled pit, as in Halema'uma'u, there is a huge cone, of which the
inside walls shelve inwards & are covered with deposits of sulphur etc.
The spectacle this evening was extraordinarily fine, & the people who could visit
Kilauea, & do not, are very foolish. The Volcano House is also improved even since my
last visit, especially in the table, & in toilet facilities.
G.W. Kirkaldy, Honolulu, 18 April 1908
As one of the above mentioned "two ladies" I wish to endorse every word of Mr.
Kirkaldy's description. The scene at the "hole" in the crater was both fine and awful--in
the true sense of that word. This visit will be one of the memories of my life. We have
found the hotel most comfortable, every arrangement well carried out. It is interesting to
find here the common bracken & other British ferns, also the "buckhorn moss" as we call
it in England.
Annie E. Horton, Southampton, England, 21 April 1908
No tongue, no pen can describe the sight of Halemaumau at 3:30 p.m. The whole
of the crater was one mass of fire.
Rev. A.H. Borghouts, ordinarily called Father Louis, Hilo, 22 April 1908
The finest sight I ever witnessed. Top of the cone blew off last night & display
was wonderful.
E.S. Aldrich, Moscow, Idaho, 24 April 1908
Newspaper articles:
Volcano Aroused: Hawaiian Star, 25 April, page 395.
Father Aloysius Visits Madame Pele, page 395.
What He Saw at Kilauea: Hawaiian Star, 8 May 1908, page 395.
Kilauea's Fire Grows Brilliant, page 395.
...The weird and awe-inspiring view of the volcano Kilauea in action at night,
with all the appropriate and correct scenery and paraphernalia that goes with the most
wonderful theatrical exhibition ever given--was only equalled the following day by the
most terrible and violent upheaval of molten lava, the belching forth of chinks and
boulders of FIRE. The powerful lashing to and fro, up and down waves of red hot lava, as
if in a storm at sea. This experience never to be forgotten. Beautiful in all its many
colorings--magnificent in its varied and tremendous fury and action, awful to contemplate
in its power for destruction if unhampered and free. As I gaze above at the sky
illuminated to the brilliancy of a second Heaven, from the fierceness of this awful
overwhelming heat, I hear the man with the red hair enviously remark, "until now I was -- --- but what's the use, what's the use," "Why should the spirit of mortal be proud."
Gentle friend, after reaching the skies on hot lava beds of ease and have a jealous
red headed man "Butt in" and make use of such --- oh, what's the use, what's the use.
O.J. Barker, Los Angles, 10 May 1908
..."Kilauea" is grand and wonderful beyond description and we were fascinated
with its mighty sea of fire. No one should miss a sight of it--and this beautiful place. It
will be our pleasure to sound its praises and appoint ourselves a promotion committee for
"Kilauea" the greatest volcano in the world.
Josephine King, 23 May 1908
I estimate the pit to be 200 feet in depth, and the lake at 800 feet long by 400 feet
wide in the form of a figure 8, with an island in the middle of the large end thus.
[Here he has drawn a small map.]
The entire surface of the lake is molten, a bank around the lake is frequently
broken through, flows running out onto the floor of the pit. There is constant activity in
the bay of the island; a continuous rise of lava at the point marked x, like a gigantic
spring, the lava flowing thence in all directions, with an apparent suction toward the bay
of the island after each explosion of gas at that point. There is more activity than at any
time since the breakdown of March 11, 1894.
L.A. Thurston, 24 May 1908
Illustration: Small sketch of Halemaumau, 24 May 1908, by L.A. Thurston, shows lake,
island, width, length. Page 399.
To describe the Wonder of Wonders is unnecessary and to say anything original is
impossible--all I can do is sit and look, and think--"When I consider the Heavens, the
Sun, the Moon & the Stars." Our trip was a most successful and pleasant one. The trail is
very good. Only fell down once, on the way home. The weather was perfect and now we
go back to Hilo with a feeling of satisfaction and happy to know we have seen the
"Glorious Madam" so full of activity, and we are very thankful that we have had this
opportunity, which may not come again in a life time.
The description given of the crater by three-year-old Thomas J. Pitts was "The
fire splashed all the time."
Ella Pitts, Ash Fork, Ariz., 24 May 1908
Kilauea--surely the eighth wonder of the world! As I gazed upon the wonderful
sea of fire, the wonder grew. Words cannot describe what the eyes behold as one looks
into the burning pit with all its glory. I never expect to witness a more glorious sight.
Josephine E. Priest, Fowler, California, 24 May 1908
It is simply impossible to exaggerate in words the grandeur of the volcano of
Kilauea to people who have never seen it, especially in its present state of activity.
D.G. May, 4 June 1908
Being fairly familiar with mountain scenery in France, Germany, Switzerland,
Italy, and Japan, I have no hesitation in saying that a visit to the volcano at Kilauea is an
absolutely unique experience. The scene is one that it is impossible to do justice to, but if
one can imagine a vast omelette of molten lava seething in a cauldron 1800 feet wide and
150 feet deep, some idea of the spectacle may be gathered.
The round trip tickets issued in Honolulu by the Inter Island S.S.Company enable
the tourist to visit the wonder of nature with the minimum of difficulty and at the
Volcano House Hotel he will find excellent accommodations and every facility for
making excursions.
Ralph G.E. Forster, 4 June 1908
Newspaper articles:
Volcano in Fine Form: Hilo Tribune, 26 May 1908, page 400.
A Gigantic Spectacle, 27 May 1908, page 400.
Angus and Wise See It, 4 June 1908, page 401.
The pit tonight is as a surging sea breaking on a rockbound coast in winter, with
red molten lava taking the place of water.
The waves break upon the shore with a sounding crash, throwing a molten spray
high in the air and recede to meet others shoreward bound. Between the horns of a
crescent shaped island a maelstrom boils and bubbles, the surface now cooling and
hardening, then breaking up into immense blocks which are whirled here and there with
all the appearances of cakes of ice breaking loose into a whirling current.
There keeps up a continuous roar as of breakers on the rocks. Here and there a
fountain breaks forth, throwing a golden stream many feet into the air.
Its awful grandeur has left an impression upon me which Death alone can remove.
Concluding I will add that I am glad that I am not one of that great traveling public who
have traveled so much and seen so much that they imagine there's nothing more in this
old Earth that will give them a thrill. I can only offer sympathy to another guest here
tonight, Hilo-bound from Kau, a New Yorker, who now sleeps within a stone's throw of
Halemaumau, yet who intends resuming his journey tomorrow without having seen it.
This man has lived too long, has seen too much, the world has aught to offer for his
knowledge or amusement....
signature illegible, Honolulu, Hawaii, 11 June 1908
Madam Pele has reappeared in her traditional glory. Come and see, for all what
has been said about Kilauea is true. Have seen Kilauea many a time,
but tonight and today's exhibition has surpassed anything I have seen.
B.M. Newell, 11 June 1908
I have now spent a week at this beautiful place and visited the crater five times,
each time with increasing interest. To describe Halemaumau in its present state of great
activity is beyond my ken, nor can I express, ever so feebly, the impression left on my
mind by the wondrous scene.
Callous indeed must be the heart not deeply moved by the stupendous display of
nature's forces, here at her very Workshop. It is certainly a privilege to have witnessed it
and the recollection of this grand spectacle will ever abide with me. What a pity that so
very few people and Island people in particular avail themselves of the opportunity to see
this the grandest outbreak of the volcano since 1894--especially as the crater can be
reached with very little discomfort....
J. Keppeler, Pearl City, Oahu, 17 June 1908
Wonderful beyond belief.
Chas. J. Biart, Honolulu, 17 June 1908
Illustrations: Two sketches, both map views, by Chas. J. Biart:
1. Halemaumau June 16 1908 8 p.m.; entire pit colored in black ink with red lines for
cracks to resemble night appearance.
2. Halemaumau 17 June 1908 9 a.m., pencil drawing, with smoke, and arrows to indicate
direction of cakes of crust carried by current. Page 405.
The depth of the pit is about the same as on May 24 last, but the size of the lake
has increased about 50%. The above diagram by C.J. Biart fairly represents the size and
shape of the lake, the black representing the entire surface of the floor of the pit.
L.A. Thurston, 21 June 1908
We have been here since the 19th and have been favored with most beautiful
weather. The evening of the 19th was spent in the crater. The pit is about 200 feet deep
but the activity is great and quite different from my last visit when the lake was above the
level of the crater. The walk to the koa forest was delightful. Everything has been most
satisfactory....
Elizabeth Van Cleve Hall, 21 June 1908
The lake of fire is much larger than when last seen.
Edward W. Thwing, 20 June 1908
The goddess of fire awoke from her sleep
And sent forth the lava from out of the deep,
With groanings and moanings and bellowings loud
And sulphurous fumes that formed in a cloud
That hung like a pall above the huge crater
And turned to blood-red a few moments later
When the sun went down behind Mauna Loa
And starlight lit up the black lava floor.
Henry Judd, Honolulu, 23 June 1908
In spellbound admiration on the crater's edge he stood,
A happy traveler from New York, the Rev. Judd.
He watched the fiery dashing molten billows break,
That on the blackened shore a golden surf did make.
The heat, the roar, the sulphur seemed so near,
Then in surging fire the face of Pele did appear.
The scene was awful and sublime, most grand!
So there the night the wonder watchers stand,
And view the mighty face of nature's hidden power
Send forth new golden tossing lava, every hour.
At last they leave the fiery pit, and homeward go,
But now again to come and see this golden lava flow.
Made a third trip to the lake of fire for this month. It is increasing in size, now
some 20 acres of molten fire. The pit of Halemaumau is slowly but steadily filling up.
Edward W. Thwing, 23 June 1908
There once were two poets gay
Who rhymed by night and by day
Till we jud(d)ged the best th(w)ing
To do, was to swing
Both into the lake of Pele.
C.G., 23 June 1908
We saw it, and it looked like h--- and then some more.
C.W. Shearman, Holyoke, Mass., 24 June 1908
No pen can describe the sight I saw last night. Grandest sight possible.
Mrs. Wm. Giberson, 25 June 1908
No use trying. Words are empty.
W.H. Bliss, 25 June 1908
Only wish that we might remain longer. Everything has been fine, and the
volcano a sight never to be forgotten. With regret we leave the Volcano House and its
efficient manager.
Gertrude E. Constant, Los Angeles, 26 June 1908
A magnificent island surrounded by the greatest ocean; the immense volcanic
mountains, and lava flows of past ages; most beautiful vegetation, all lead to eager
expectations of more wonderful sights, that are fully realized at the marvelous sight of
active "Kilauea." Our party was well taken care of by the most genial of hosts and his
attendants.
Henry Engels, 26 June 1908
Third visit. 1902--Pit 825 feet deep, slight activity in western end. 1904-Quiescent. Present depth of pit, 250 feet; twenty acres of molten lava; activity intense;
impossible to describe.
A.M. Merrill, 27 June 1908
Halemaumau: a caged monster of fire. Some modern Dante should visit it and try
to depict its wonders and terrors. Fact is stranger than fiction and if Dante's fertile
imagination was able to evolve an Inferno, what a world-inspiring, never-dying book
might be produced by a modern Dante should he be able to view by night the pit of
Halemaumau. None but an inspired genius could even begin to fitly describe and portray
its wonders.
J.L. Hopwood, 27-30 June 1908
One hundred and twenty visitors, representing the Hawaiian Evangelical
Association, spent the day at the Volcano House and crater. They found the hotel a
comfortable and restful place, the proprietor all attention and care for their comfort, and
old Kilauea is a blaze of glory fascinating them by her magnificent display of color and
movement, and the bright glow that showed plainly in the sky at night from the hotel. A
religious service was held on the brink of the crater, in five languages, and a cablegram
sent to the Oriental Missionary Exhibition, London: "Jehovah, the God of Kapiolani is
still the God of Hawaii. The same yesterday, today, and forever."
John F. Cowan, 29 June 1908
Halemaumau is truly the eighth wonder of the world. Our party viewed it at 9
o'clock this evening. We were all struck with the grandeur of the scene and the
marvellous display of leaping fire.
Jack R. Desha, Oahu College, 30 June 1908
Record time made. We believe we made the fastest time to and from the crater.
We made the trip down in 44 minutes and 2 seconds; actually beat the wind. Coming
back we did it in 43 minutes. This time was taken by Jack's old onion and it keeps pretty
bum time.
S. Lie Desha Jr., 30 June 1908
The trip made so fast to and from Halemaumau was quite worth our while. This is
my first visit.
Ethel K. Wilcox, 29-30 June 1908
Illustration: Rough sketch of Molten Lake with solid lip around it, June 1908. Page 414.
...Vesuvius disappoints one very often, but awe-inspiring Kilauea never ceases to
show Nature's gigantic forces. So fascinating in its ever changing weird shapes. Wish I
could see Halemaumau again.
Lucy Browne-Dant, Gloucester-by-the Sea, Massachusetts, 4 July 1908
Visited Kilauea again in 18-19 June 1925, 17 years after his first visit. Pit much
changed. In 1908 more full of molten lava, and today a dry "glory holt."
Captain R.I. Hasbronck, no date
Westervelt party. Two weeks ending July 14 1908
We found the volcano tremendously active and feel decidedly that one should
spend the night at the crater to get the most pleasure and profit. We visited the lake six
times. The night of July 9 was especially active, the whole floor of the crater around the
boiling lake being alive with flows. Two of these made each, half the circumference-eight in all. The "island" seemed to vibrate, there were eight or nine blow holes going at
once and a current flowed into the cave under the crust without resistance although
usually these currents are met with furious boiling causing fountains, at least as we saw.
This night we were there eight hours seeing indescribable things. Going down July 10 we
found that the "island" that Demosthenes Lycurgus had watched two years expecting it to
disappear, had indeed virtually done so, but a small rock remaining and that quite away
from its usual place where it apparently performed the office of a lid to keep the pot
boiling. July 10 night presented some quite new phases of action, the central fountain
starting from the usual place and then moving about followed by other boiling centres.
This seemed to be to some, the place--or at least a place where the lava comes up from
the centre of the earth. With the lid off the kettle the quiescent periods seemed longer, the
lake filling and overflowing then receding. The whole lake looks as if it had risen in the
two weeks since we came.
Aside from this great spectacle, we have found this hotel and place a most
delightful summer resort ...
Caroline D. Castle Westervelt, no date
Mr. Demosthenes Lycurgus has been our host the past two weeks and deserves all
that can be said concerning this care of guests. It is worth while to call attention to a
somewhat unusual trait--the ability to handle a large crowd with limited accommodations
and but little previous notice. On the 4th and 5th the hotel was almost full of permanent
guests. Then came an excursion from Honolulu with about 160 excursionists. All were
cared for and so pleasantly managed that no grumbling was heard except in the depths of
the crater.
The Large Crater Floor
On the left of the trail across the lava
1) The large crack (bridged) extending from wall to wall.
2) Another large crack running southward with splendid revelations of depth--and
in one place at least finely marked with large turquoise blue stains of copper fumes.
3) A series of large caves sometimes from 100 to 300 feet in extent, with roofs
studded with small lava stalactites from one to ten inches in length. These caves have
openings which can be found only by a little careful search. The landmarks by which to
locate them are the lava flow from the ledge toward Kilaueaiki and the first pile of fallen
rocks to the left. Between these the caves start and follow apparently a lava flow toward
the pit crater. Over two of the caves piles of stones were erected.
4) The main floor of pahoehoe easily walked over by careful walkers. A careless
person has no right to go anywhere off the trail. Hummocks ten to twenty feet in height-lava of every variety--caves and hot crack abound. The corral and the Little Beggar about
50 feet to the left--and the picture gallery by it should not be overlooked.
5) The proposed road marked to the corral. Perhaps this could be bettered by
running it straight from the edge of the sand to the pit crater.
On the right of the trail.
1) A series of cracks in the northern corner.
2) A "hot" corner and a blow hole which sends out a great amount of heat.
3) A great deal of aa--and pahoehoe combined or rather alternating and forming
ridges--and sometimes channels which afford interesting material for photographs.
4) The large area of hot cracks and the steam hole--all covered by the designation
The Devil's Kitchen--a place to scorch postal cards and heat coffee.
5) Do not overlook the trail from the rest house around the western slope of the pit
to a fine viewpoint on the south side--guarded by a stone wall against which observers
may safely lean.
On the south side of the pit-Small clusters of Pele's hair can be found south of the pit in cracks--but if anyone
desires larger quantities he must go in the daytime on the main floor--to the south.
The crater is rapidly filling up. It has filled its boiling pit from twenty to twenty
five feet during the past two weeks.
W.D. Westervelt, 14 July 1908
We can hardly say our trip to the Island was uneventful--the Mauna Kea and a
goodly gale in the channels took care of that side. Our stop for rest in Hilo was fair to
middling despite difficulties of accommodation. Our ride by train to Glenwood was
replete with interest in passing scenery, to say nothing of the attractions offered by
thimbleberries, realized in a small measure at occasional stops. The stage ride for the
balance was thoroughly fine notwithstanding bumpy moments. The real and ultimate
purpose, to enjoy which the foregoing events were braved, the trip, walking and riding,
across the lava beds of the crater of Kilauea, to the living fires of the pit, the inspection of
the forces playing below us as though conscious of their power to belch forth and
overwhelm us, scarcely admit of written description. We can only hope that every other
whose way is directed to the shores of the Islands may find it possible to experience by
actual sight the awful and marvellous spectacle. It is well worthy of every effort to see
it....
C.H. Olson and party, 19 July 1908
My second visit to Volcano House. I have spent three afternoons and evenings
watching the great Lake of Fire, it is a most wonderful sight, I have enjoyed every
moment of my twelve days visit, only sorry I cannot stay longer.
M.T. Scott, Maui, 22 July 1908
The following is an excerpt from a news clipping.
Volcano Activity Is Noticed In Hilo
There has been increased activity at the volcano during the past few nights and
especially on Monday, when the reflection was more vivid than it has been at any time
since the outbreak on Mauna Loa eighteen months ago. Many people in Hilo saw it and a
few watched through the night till the hours began to grow big. Following this, shortly
after nine o'clock on Tuesday morning, a slight shock of earthquake was felt, its direction
seemingly being from east to west.
On Monday morning, about 4:30 o'clock from the point of sunrise on the horizon
to shore, the entire water was of a deep blood-red hue. Turning to Mauna Kea the entire
mountain was similarly tinted although of a lighter color, and this was fully three quarters
of an hour before sunrise. It lasted, however, only for a few minutes.
One gentleman who saw the volcano's reflection on Monday night said that, at
times, it was most vivid right over Kilauea, again lighter, the surrounding shades
corresponding in depth of color. While he was watching it there appeared to be one
column of fire shooting high up into the sky as if there had been a special eruption there.
During Tuesday there appeared to be columns of smoke hanging over Mauna Loa and
covering its side toward Hilo.
Hilo Herald, 23 July 1908
If one did not enjoy the workings of the crater Kilauea one has no eye for the
beautiful and majestic.
Mr. and Mrs. S. Allenberg, San Francisco, 26 July 1908
If the activity of the crater increases as it has since June 20, 1908, the whole pit
will soon fill up. Then there were but two small fountains. Now from six to twelve are
playing constantly. The phenomenon of the progression of the fountains from the center
to the sides of the crater is also new. At times on Thursday evening, July 23, a huge
fountain would burst forth from the center of the pit and move rapidly toward the north
side, to be immediately followed by another and then another. At one time there was a
row of five of these spouters chasing each other merrily across the pit, while all around
the edge there were great fountains playing with surf dashing 50 to 75 feet in the air
constantly. There have been great flows from the pit nearly every night this past week.
Measurements made by E.D. Baldwin Sunday show that the floor of the crater is 190 feet
from the edge.
Rhoda Green Thayer, 28 July 1908
The members of the trans-Pacific yacht race party made the trip to the volcano as
the guests of the businessmen of Hilo. They went to the crater last evening and witnessed
such a display as falls to the lot of but few. The whole floor of the pit was active shortly
after midnight and it was well toward 2 o'clock when the party started on the return.
Commodore Sinclair, whose party preceded the main body of the yachtsmen told his
young friends on their arrival at the pit that they were about to receive a liberal education.
The Commodore has been here before but has never been favored with such an exhibition
as may now be seen at any hour. A man who has won two Trans-Pacific races is entitled
to something out of the ordinary.
Wallace R. Farrington, Official Log Keeper Yacht Hawaii on Hilo race, 1 Aug 1908
Impression from the verandah--Aug. 1st at evening-A fringe of green, a streak of black,
A mist of bluish haze;
Outline of mountains dimly seen,
Tinted by sunset rays
And--as we watch, the darkness falls,
The haze becomes a glow
Which rests a brilliant coronet
On Kilauea's brow.
A.M. Stroup, 1 Aug 1908
My first visit to this volcano was June 23 1880, in company with ...
My second visit was August 26th 1884 in company with ...
My third visit was October 11th 1890 in company with ...
My fourth visit, July 30 to August 5 1908 is in company with W. Spencer Bowen
and W.L. Castle. There is more of continued activity in Kilauea at this time, than at any
of the previous visits referred to. At the other, or former visits, there were "break ups,"
and cooling down, but now there is constant action--without cessation.
William A. Bowen, Honolulu, 3 Aug 1908
Hearing how active Madame Pele had been for some weeks past, myself and
friends decided to pay a visit to the volcano, we left Honolulu on Aug. 4th, arrived at
Hilo about ten a.m. on the morning of the 5th, left Hilo at two p.m. arriving at the
Volcano House about seven in the evening.
I did not go down into the crater until Friday evening Aug. 7th; it had been
beautifully clear all day, and the evening was simply perfect; the crater of Kilauea was
not very active at first but I was fascinated, as I gazed down into its depths of boiling,
hissing, roaring waves of fire, battling with each other, and throwing its jets of molten
lava more than 50 feet into the air, which grew wilder and more furious later in the
evening; it would subside at times, than begin again more angry than ever, then again the
flow would appear to go all in one direction, then stop and boil like a mad whirlpool and
throw its jets of wild spray high into the heavens; no pen can describe the grandeur of this
wonderful crater, no tongue do it justice; after paying a visit to the crater how can anyone
doubt that there is a Supreme Being above that rules the Universe....
Anna S. Wright, 11 Aug 1908
Pele
I am the Goddess of Fire
I made and I master this world;
The Sun--La--He was my sire
Before the first Earth-stuff unfurled.
My home is the Fire-reeking Pit
Where the lava-waves billow and break,
There in Red Glory I sit,
At my mandate the mountain walls quake.
I am the Goddess of Fire,
My sign is the Sulphurous Smoke
Woe to him who arouses my ire,
Wrath of Goddess he fails to invoke!
"Auwe" cry his family and kin
"Auwe" cry his gardens and lands
They shall pay the full price of his sin
For I smite with all-withering hands.
I am the Goddess of Fire
I sear the green forest and fen
The black waste-land's my Heart's Desire
And the Fear of these weaklings call'd men.
They came with their Hebrew Lord
These haoles from over the sea,
They prate of "His Shielding Sword"
They sneer and they snicker at me.
But still I reign Queen of this isle,
Still the sacred ohelo I claim
Still the jagged aa I pile
In dead wastelands rimmed with flame
For I am the Goddess Pele,
The Mistress and Ruler of Fire.
Woe! woe! to those who delay
To propitiate my ire!
Van Jean McCaughey, 12 Aug 1908
Oh, for words to describe this wonderful demonstration of God's power and
majesty! But words are too weak; either spoken or written, they can give but a faint
conception of the magnificence of the eruptions of Kilauea or the impressions burned
upon one's soul in the contemplation of this grand spectacle. Still one yearns to convey to
others something of an idea of this, the eighth wonder of the world.
Starting from the Volcano House which stands almost upon the brink of the
ancient crater, one descends to the floor as down a steep mountain side. This cliff, or rim,
is clothed in attractive garments--various trees and feathery ferns; while the wind piercing
through them sounds like the waves of a distant ocean. The only other sound was that of
an unknown species of birds, trilling a series of short, sweet, twittering notes.
At the base of the rim one comes suddenly upon the hard, black, barren floor of
the ancient crater covering in the neighborhood of 2600 acres.
A well-defined trail leads the way across this lava floor, smooth in places; in
others, oh how rough and rocky! The pahoehoe (dark lava) at first sight, so monstrous
and unattractive, soon becomes interesting masses of blackened ropes, twisted and coiled;
the gentle ripples of the ocean, hardened into black stone; or hillocks of tangled tree
trunks, seared and blackened--fantastic forms everywhere.
The brittle lava is cracked and seamed, great caverns appearing below the thin
surface, and treacherous chasms yawning wide.
Scattered over the lava of this belt are a few struggling ferns, gaining scant
nourishment from the thin layer of soil in some crack or corner, but looking strangely out
of place in this dead, black rock.
Farther on, in the more recent lava flow, not a sign of vegetation appears, but all
about, from crevices in the lava clouds of steam arise warning the tourist not to walk over
the surface beneath which is the abode of the demon of fire.
In the Devil's Kitchen, a great crack in the lava, from which issue clouds of steam,
one may make coffee and scorch souvenir post cards, likewise his fingers if he is not
careful.
Not far from the Devil's Kitchen one comes to what may easily be believed the
abiding place of Satan himself. Oh, what a sight is there! Over the brink of the lake, or
pit, down, down nearly two hundred feet, one looks upon a seething, boiling cauldron of
fire, with fountains of glowing lava playing over its heaving surface, thrown high into the
air and falling in showers of fiery sparks; and with great streaks, or cracks, like the
flashes sent out from the gorgeous Northern Lights, zigzagging between the tempestuous
fountains. As one's fascinated eyes are slowly taking in the wondrous spectacle, an
overpowering sense of awe sinks down upon one's spirits and instinctively the question
arise, "Is this a demonstration of the awful power of God or is it a hell of fiery demons?"
Ah, now one readily understands and appreciates the superstitious regard in which
the early natives held these volcanic eruptions! How akin are we all when fear enters the
soul!
To best appreciate the splendor of the scene, one needs to leave it for a time, walk
about to gather masses of Pele's hair or fantastic bits of lava, then return when the
darkness of night has settled about the fathomless pit. Lurid lights playing upon the walls
of the awful abyss, the increased glare of the crimson waves, the brightness of the
scintillating sparks, the gloriously lighted heavens,--all add to the splendor of the scene.
Avoiding the suffocating sulphur fumes, protecting one's face from the intense
heat by a mask, and shading one's eyes from the blinding sun, one settles oneself upon
the brink of the pit, and remains for hours, scarcely moving, entranced by magnificent,
ever-changing sights. Oh, for a hundred eyes that one might take in all the grandeur at
once!
The surface of the entire cauldron seethes and heaves like ocean waves caught in
a cavern while the surging mass beneath gives forth a terrific sound, as the roaring of an
angry, tempestuous sea. Suddenly there bursts through the black surface a fountain of
glowing lava, leaping into the air to great heights, scattering myriad stars--burning bits of
lava, in all directions which, falling to the surface, soon cool and blacken.
While watching one fountain the attention is diverted by another and still another
scattered here and there over the pit's surface, each as fascinating as the others. There is a
wonderful variety, for the area of the pit is about twenty-five acres. Oh, the wonder of it
all!
From the edges of the black lava there may suddenly break a river of fire, which,
flowing outward in a series of ripples finally reaches the edge of the lake.
Sometimes the fountains moving over to the rim violently erupt throwing the molten lava
over the rim, and down it flows in ripples and ridges covering the banks and floors
beyond. One could easily imagine how it would look if it were flowing down a mountain
side into the cultivated fields below. What an awful sight!
But God is good, and who knows that Kilauea is not a safety valve of the islands
preventing such disasters as California recently suffered!
Reluctantly leaving the fiery furnace, one walks back over the rough trail three
miles and a half, reflecting solemnly upon the wonders of God and this terrific
demonstration of His power.
Minnie L. Mackay, Santa Clara, California, 13 Aug 1908
The above party arrived at the Volcano House on Wednesday evening Aug. 5th
1908. Thursday afternoon at 4:07 o'clock started for the burning Lake of Halemaumau.
On reaching the edge of the pit the sight we beheld was grand beyond description. As
darkness came on the color of the burning lava became more intensely red and the
activity of the lake greatly increased. Although the appearance of the lake of fire is very
different from what it was on my first visit in 1891, I think it is equally grand and
beautiful. The activity is greater and the burning lava overflowing on to the banks of the
black lava beach around the edge of the crater proves that the lake is rising rapidly. The
size of the lake of fire at the present time is said to be about 1200 feet in diameter and the
burning lava is about 150 feet below the floor of the crater. Several very active fountains
around the edge of the lake were in operation, while near the center from one to six large
fountains close together were very active and continuously making a grand display. The
splashing of the waves of fire could be very distinctly heard. The writer has made four
trips to Halemaumau during his visit this time and each time the activity of the lake was
greater than the previous visit.
Jas. McLean and party, 3rd visit, Aug. 5-Aug. 15, 14 Aug 1908
As there is often a grain of wheat in a bushel of chaff, so there may be something
of value in the observations of one who does not possess any experience in recording the
phenomena of volcanic action.
I visited the crater on the nights of Aug. 15th and of Aug. 17th. On both occasions
there was great activity manifested, and the change in the shape and other conditions of
the lake were to me most interesting.
The large amphitheater of the crater itself, with its almost perpendicular walls,
and the appearance as if hewn out of the solid rock by a purposeful hand, makes a fitting
setting of rugged dignity to the magnificent and awe-inspiring spectacle it frames. The
sunken side to the left of the observer seated near the shed, and the half moon gap to the
right, suggesting a "Devil's bite," impresses one with the instability of the walls lending a
fascination always experienced in facing danger by the adventurous. This sensation
places the mind of the individual, perhaps, in a more receptive and appreciative mood for
the manifestation of the power and force of nature's working occurring in the vicinity.
Then again the rock bound pit serves to reflect the glare of the living fire, giving a weird
and lurid touch to the Devil's Caldron, boiling over on a too hot fire.
The changes in the lake of molten lava are kaleidoscopic in form and tint, and
therefore cannot be minutely described.
Around the lake like a border of mourning was a narrow ring, resembling the edge
of a huge truncated cone, from the ridge of which the floor of the pit sloped downwards
to the walls of the amphitheatre.
The lake was estimated by me roughly as nearly a thousand feet across, on my
first visit, on the 15th, but not so large north & south, as east and west, by perhaps a
hundred feet. The floor of the pit outside the cone containing the lake was well defined
and the activity of the lake itself was greatest about one third the radius of the circular
border from the center and towards the east, which is over the fountain known, I believe,
as Old Faithful.
The working of this fountain was intermittent, occurring perhaps every half
minute. The surface would become blackened over except for streaks of brightest red
where the underlying molten lava showed through the cooled surface. These cracks ran in
all directions sometimes forming straight lines, changing to curved and zigzag courses,
some six feet wide and from ten to fifty feet apart. Suddenly the center of one of the
blackened areas would be seen to be agitated, as if some giant were raising it angrily, and
attempting to cast it from his shoulders. Then in a moment it broke, a huge mass of
molten, red, bright lava, the shape of an inverted bowl, and of a diameter and height of
from 50 to 100 feet would be suddenly thrust upwards, casting a spray high above it of
glittering particles. The upheaval subsided with a roar and swish, and causing intense
disturbance of the surface, the surrounding lava being thrown into waves and billows, all
of the brightest glowing red, or even white of intense heat.
[Here he has put a drawing of Halemaumau.]
The site this activity was at the X marked 1. X's 2-3-4-5 mark other fountains.
These were not so great as at 1 but were much more continuous, especially at 3. There the
lava seemed to beat against the restraining wall, heating it to an almost white heat, like
the lapping of waves against a rock, in short rapid waves, while it also bubbled up as if
fed from an underlying spring, at times casting spray 20 or 30 feet in the air. The other
fountains played continuously especially at 6 where a large island of some black
substance lay close by not contiguous to the wall of the lake. At 07 sparks were flying
upward, impelled through the floor of the pit (not of the lake) by confined gases, which
whistled through the incipient cone.
At the visit on Aug. 17 the activity of the lake was much greater. It had to my
judgement risen at least from ten to twenty feet higher in the short period of two days, the
estimate being based up the distance from the floor to the opening in the wall of the
amphitheatre on the left.
The most important change was to the left almost under the observer, at the edge
by the shed.
[Here he has another drawing of Halemaumau.]
Here what was formerly a spouting cone, throwing spurts into the air was now a
fountain (X7), that part of the floor of the pit being filled with lava to the level of the lake
at X2, which fountain was still acting. This suggests the idea that the fountains are the
sites of "blowholes" and that the ebullition at various points is not due to gases inherent
in the lava at that particular place, but is due to gases escaping far below and forcing its
way upwards to the surface.
Old Faithful was more than usually active, I was told by others who had made
many previous visits, but not only was the activity increased at X1 (as evidenced by the
greater size of the heaving bubbles and incessant activity) but there was a constant
ebullition of equal size and activity at 8-9-10. All was accompanied by a swish and roar
like waves breaking in a cavern.
There was a movement in the whole mass of the lava from 6 toward 10. At 3 there
was a suggestion of a flow downward into the lake (not over the edge) the lava running in
a bright red stream (about fifty feet wide ) under the overhanging cone, showing a convex
edge, perhaps accounting for the general movement of the lake from 6 to 10, because it
seemed to well up at 6 (as if it had turned on itself somewhere between 3 and 6 and come
again to the surface.)
At X4 the edge had broken away. the result was a channel about twenty feet wide
through which the bright lava flowed rapidly, turning in the direction of the arrow, and
making a roadway of golden red surface for about 1/4 the circumference of the lake,
widening and cooling as it proceeded, but dotted with masses of glowing patches from
the apparent size of an orange, to many square feet in area.
While watching (about 9:00 p.m.) a flow started at 8.
All that was visible for perhaps half a minute was the curling edge of living fire,
as the lava flowed down the bank of the further side of the lake. Soon, however, the
glowing stream appeared as it made its way along the sloping floor of the pit, but soon
the flow stopped, not reaching the constant stream coming from 3.
There was every indication to one inexperienced that the edge of the lake would
give way at 10, but the lava reached the floor of the pit at 12 by a peculiar process.
Suddenly through the black surface of the pit a crack of intense almost white light
appeared, as if a burning mass had been pressed against its under surface and eaten its
way through.
From the crack another radiated, while from under its edge a wave of red lava
curled onward as if the adjacent substance were kindled by its contact. This process of
spreading, like red ink on a blotter, continued until the whole width of the pit from
amphitheatre wall to wall of lake, was like a mosaic floor, the tesselated tiles varying in
size, and in hue from brighter golden red through every conceivable tint of red to darkest
brown. These tiles were not arranged according to their intensity, but bright red was in
juxtaposition with darkest brown, and darkest brown with yellowish gold, making a
combination of color the effect of which is impossible to describe.
Then at 6 the same overflowing (by breaking through) occurred, repeating the
phenomena at 10.
Here, as elsewhere, the fountain bubbled constantly, the waves of molten lava
dashing against the edge of the lake with a constant noise, increased by the hiss of
escaping gases, like low thunder combined with the sound of a hundred tons of red hot
iron suddenly submerged in a pool of cold water.
The mind became fascinated by the constant change of conditions in the lake, the
ear by the awe inspiring rumbling indicative of majestic force, the soul became imbued
with a strange wonder at the omnipotence of God, or realization of the insignificance and
puny might of man. One left the scene with reluctance, the main thought being: "What
wonder might I not behold, if only I remained an hour more?"
A.N. Sinclair, 17 Aug 1908
Illustrations: Rough maps of Halemaumau, A.N. Sinclair, 17 Aug 1908; with x's marked
for location of fountains. Pages 441 and 442.
During the past week I have made two visits into the caldera of Kilauea and have
carefully observed the molten lake chiefly from the northern side, that where is located
the shelter for sight-seers.
The fire-pit--wrongly termed Hale-ma'u-ma'u, for that venerable pit collapsed
sometime ago--is bounded, for the most part, by a solid vertical wall whose height, as it
appears to my eye, is about 200 feet. On the N.E. side, however, there has been a settling
down, a sinking of this wall--a veritable geological fault--making a large jog. This huge
wall has the appearance of well-built masonry. The difficulty of estimating the
dimensions of the fire-pit is great, owing largely to the quivering column of heated
ascending air and vapor and partly to the lack of any definite standard of comparison.
One thousand or twelve hundred feet does not seem to me to be far from the truth as the
measure of its diameter.
The fire-lake proper covers only about one half or two thirds of this walled-in pit.
The encircling border which abuts on the wall is of black pahoehoe and is lower than the
fire lake by at least 15 or 20 feet. At first sight it seemed as if the encircling border was
higher than the fire-lake, but in the lave-torrents that from time to time break through the
limiting shell or low rim, that encloses the fire lake, I saw a demonstration that proved the
fire-lake to be on a higher level than its surrounding pahoehoe border. This phenomenon-that of torrential overflow from the fire-lake, every night repeated--also proves that the
molten mass in the lake is constantly rising, and will, if it keeps on, fill the pit to its brim.
One may obtain a graphic idea of the profile of this fire-lake, its enclosing border
of pahoehoe, and the enclosing pit walls against which the latter abuts, by imagining a
huge dinner-plate turned upside down; this dinner plate surrounded by a hoop applied to
its rim. The hoop will then represent the vertical wall of the pit. The sloping border of the
plate will represent the pahoehoe that surrounds the fire-lake; and the flat bottom of the
plate with its encircling bead the fire-lake and its low rim.
[Here he has drawn a see-through diagram of the lake within Halemaumau pit.]
The fire-lake is an immense body of fluid lava covered in large part by a scale of
dark, seemingly black, lava, which is divided into irregular sections or territories, the
boundaries of which are lines or narrow lanes of red-hot or white-hot lava. These lines or
lanes zigzag, rarely following curved lines, and cover the surface of the fire-lake with a
net-work of fire-lines. These fire-lines would not be truthfully represented by lines with
clean-cut edges, but rather by jagged, fish-bone tracks. Their course is marked by points
of connection that constantly flash up at short intervals.
Fire-fountains. There are a number of points in the fire-lake which are in frequent
or almost constant fountain-play. These, of course, vary in number and in degree of
action from time to time; but some of them are quite persistent. One in particular has
been so constant as to receive the name "Old Faithful." The action of "O.F." is not
continuous. He takes a rest every few minutes and allows small scales of relatively black
lava to form over him. The location of this chief fire-fountain can, however, at all times
be recognized both by relatively small size of the scales and by being surrounded by firelines that are more nearly circular than those in any other part of the lake. The fountain-
play of "Old Faithful" is always impressive, and is accompanied by a considerable
increase of the heat that comes to one's cheeks. It is wise to watch the fire-play with one's
face protected by a mask provided with eye-holes.
To return to "Old Faithful"--After a short period of inactivity and scaling-over, of
a sudden there is a jet of red lava within the circle of his action: the lava-scales begin to
tilt on edge and to be sucked down into vortices; then, in an instant, the surface of the
pot--within the limits of "O.F.'s" activity--swells up in one huge, rotund, white-hot mass,
leaping high into the air. This action continues for many seconds or a minute--perhaps
longer--as by some force boiling up from below, and presently subsides. This action
varies from time to time; but "Old Faithful" has long been and still continues to be one of
the chief points of action and of interest in the fire-lake. If there is a shaft reaching down
to the world's central fires Old Faithful must be directly over this fire-shaft. "O.F." I
judge to be in the N.E. quarter of the fire-lake.
Another fire-fountain of great interest is situated in the northern quarter of the
lake and quite near its edge. This fire-fountain never reaches the magnitude and activity
of "O.F." The arrangement of the fire-lines that radiate from this fire-fountain reminds
one of the disposition of the legs of an octopus; and--what is remarkable this disposition
remains substantially the same.
On the western border of the lake is a line of fire-caves, or fire-ovens, that are in
almost constant, though varying intensity of action. This action resembles the beating of a
wild sea against an overhanging cliff--the rush of a roller against the cliff--the rebounding
of the wave--the upward dash of the molten stuff as it strikes the cliff in fiery surf--its
breaking into red spray. The rim of the lake at this point seemed to be higher and to be
more like a cliff than elsewhere. As the fire-wave overleaped this cliff it broke into small
masses and fell upon the outward incline of this cliff down which they rolled for several
yards. This interesting phenomenon proved to my satisfaction that the molten lava lake is
several yards higher than its frozen pahoehoe border.
There are numerous other points of fountain-play which sometimes work in
concert. At such times the display is magnificent. This it is that makes the sightseer
stagger with the weight of big words. In general, the activity of all these fountains
intermittent, perhaps rhythmic. This rhythm, however, if such there is, is not at once
evident. It should be the induction made from longer observation than I have been able to
devote to its study.
Observation shows that there is a movement of the crusted surface of the lake
from west to east. Further observation showed a more limited movement to the west in
the direction of the cliff-caves mentioned above. This last seemed to me to be due to the
suction caused by the ebullition and upheaving of the immense volume of material in this
locality. The same movement was discernible locally to a certain degree and to a limited
extent in the direction of every point of fountain-play.
On my first visit to Kilauea in 1881 there were three fire-lakes. The action was ten
times greater than at the present time.
On my visit in 1906 the pit was a black and empty hole.
N.B. Emerson, 18 Aug 1908
Illustration: Cut-away view of Halemaumau, 18 Aug 1908, N.B. Emerson. Page 446.
I visited the crater on the nights on Aug. 15 and Aug. 17, 1908. Pele, in all her
strength and restless energy, held the stage. All the little, ordinary affairs of life seemed
to fade and drop away. We gazed in awe at the magnificent display of nature's forces
before us--A seething, boiling mass of molten lava rising and falling like the waves of the
ocean--a dull, continuous roar--To be appreciated, Halemaumau must be seen.
Flora M. Sinclair, 17 Aug 1908
We have enjoyed every moment of our visit at the Volcano House. Our genial
host Demosthenes Lycurgus doing every thing possible to make us feel at home. We
made five trips to the crater and each time the display seemed more magnificent than
before.
May E. Lord, 29 July-21 Aug 1908
...I also visited Halemaumau in 1891 when the lake of fire was about 500 feet
deep, but a little smaller than now and with a perceptible rim. Then the fountains, by
actual ____ measurement, spouted liquid lava from 100 to 156 ft. high, the distance being
computed by the seconds it took the lava to fall allowing 16 1/2 ft the first sec., 33 ft the
2nd sec., 66 ft. the 3rd sec. etc. then adding the series. Now the fountains drop in 1 sec so
are from 15 to 20 ft high, but sparks and small particles of liquid lava are thrown 30 to 40
ft. The lake now is about 150 ft deep and looks as if it has risen at least 15 ft during my
visit from Aug. 5th to the 21st. In 1891 the crust constantly forming and breaking, was of
considerable thickness and the broken pieces were thrown to the tops of the highest
fountains, but now the crust is very thin and bends and breaks with no perceptible edge to
show thickness. There are frequent overflows extending to the vertical walls. On the
bank, some distance from the shore line, a small fountain is playing, and there are many
small apertures in the banks which show clearly at night.
I visited Halemaumau in 1891-1905-1906; and now in 1908 when the fires are
hotter and the view, both by night and day, more awe inspiring.
W.L. Howard, 20 Aug 1908
It is impossible for me to add anything to the admirable descriptions of the present
action in Halemaumau, given on these pages by Drs. A.H. Sinclair and N.B. Emerson.
Having seen it when it was a fearful abyss, about 1000 feet deep and 1200 wide, pouring
out volumes of black smoke, I can the better appreciate the magnificent and aweinspiring spectacle which it now presents. This evening our party witnessed the scene so
graphically described by Mr. C.L. Rhodes on p. 468, [News article, World Forging
Processes of Nature at Kilauea] the breaking down of the retaining wall of the inner lake
in three places, from which poured magnificent cascades of liquid fire on the eastern side.
Great cakes of the floating crust were broken off, carried over and melted. And the
gorgeous rivers of glowing metal continued to flow until the whole space between the
outer wall of the vast pit and the inner lake was filled up to the level of the latter. In
watching these streams and the forms which they took in cooling, we had before our eyes
an illustration of the processes which have built up the great variety of lava formations to
be met with in crossing the floor of Kilauea. It is not only a sublime spectacle, but an
instructive lesson in methods of world building.
To facilitate this study, every possible comfort and convenience are provided by
our genial host, whose executive ability under many difficulties, whose unfailing
courtesy and assiduous attention to the comfort of his guests deserve special
acknowledgement.
W.D. Alexander, 20 Aug 1908
Went to the crater at 3:30 yesterday and had a most wonderful display of
fireworks "set off" for our benefit. It was a most glorious and awe-inspiring sight to see
twenty fountains of fire, playing at one time, and fifteen flows at another--eight of the
flows being directly before us; the heat was very great but we could not resist the
fascination of Madam Pele so staid and toasted our faces (and Madam Pele) until nearly
nine o'clock. There were twenty-six in our party and others joined us later.
In the morning we had gone part way to the crater to pose for moving pictures and
we all hope to "see ourselves as others saw us," when Mr. Bonine has his films ready.
Glorious weather and a thoroughly enjoyable trip.
Mrs. Frederick W. Carter, Honolulu, 24 Aug 1908
At the request of our most kind host I break my custom on this my fortieth visit to
Halemaumau, or Lua Pele, to note not merely the activity of the volcano, which reminds
me of the condition in 1864 and 1880 so far as the action in the pit is concerned, but to
the visitor the important change in the creature comforts he now experiences. At the
earlier date the main crater was four hundred feet deeper and there was no trail suitable
for horse, hardly one practicable for man. For shelter there was a grass house of one room
with floor of coarse hala mat, no straw bed, a cookstove and attendant Chinese but the
visitor must bring his own provisions, and water was condensed from the steam-cracks
which were then much the same in volume as at present. Later came the frame house of
which the present billiard room is a relic much improved. It seemed a great advance and
my conservatism was a little disturbed when the present hotel was added. But as we grow
in years appreciation of the mere physical comfort also grows, and now after many kind
and pleasantly remembered hosts it is pleasant to have such a shelter and to be cared for
by Demosthenes N. Lycurgus and his obliging staff.
I miss the strawberries once abundant around this region but now extinct. The fine
looking raspberries do not quite fill their place; the ohelos are not so abundant as
formerly, and some native flowers are nearly extinct. When I came in 1864 to survey the
crater and for the first time carried a chain around it assisted only by Hawaiians,
provisions were scarce and other visitors rare. Now that after forty years I am again here
to collect more of the local native plants, I find abundance, many fine vegetables grown
in the hotel kitchen garden. Good enough roads, te