małopolska - Małopolski System Informacji Turystycznej

MAŁOPOLSKA
Weekend trips
Małopolska
 8 UNESCO sites
 250 attractions
on the Wooden Architecture Route
 Wadowice – town of birth
of Pope John Paul II
 Salt mines in Wieliczka and Bochnia
 9 spa resorts
 6 national parks
 4 geothermal pools
 Rafting down the Dunajec gorge
 2600 km of bicycle trails
 3360 km of mountain trails
 250 ski runs
www.visitmalopolska.pl
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Publisher
Department of Tourism, Sport and Promotion
at The Office of the Marshal of the Małopolska Province
Regional Tourism Information System Team
ul. Basztowa 22, 31-156 Kraków
[email protected]
www.visitmalopolska.pl
Text
Krzysztof Bzowski
Photos
S. Gacek, T. Gębuś, J. Gorlach, K. Gzyl, P. Mierniczak, J. Podlecki, M. Zaręba, D. Zaród,
UMWM photo archive
Publishing
Amistad Sp. z o.o. – Program
ul. Stolarska 13/7, 31-043 Kraków
tel./faks: + 48 12 4229922
[email protected], www.polskaturystyczna.pl
Production management: Agnieszka Błaszczak, Małgorzata Czopik
Project coordination: Katarzyna Thor
Publishing concept: Anna Niedźwieńska
Editor: Aurelia Hołubowska
Proofreading: Agnieszka Szmuc
Cover design, graphic design: PART SA
Maps: Wydawnictwo Kartograficzne Daunpol sp. z o.o.
Typesetting, preparation for print: Michał Tincel
Translation and proofreading: EuroInterpret Dominik Moser
Kraków 2010, ISBN 978-83-63091-13-2
The authors and publishers have made every effort to ensure the text is accurate, however, they cannot
be responsible for any changes that took place after the materials have been prepared for publishing.
Materials prepared as of 29 October 2010.
Małopolska
Capital of the region: Kraków
Major cities: Tarnów, Nowy Sącz, Oświęcim
Surface area: 15,190 km2 (about 5% of the surface area of Poland)
Population: 3.28 mil. (about 8% of the population of Poland)
Landscape:
 the tallest peak – Rysy: 2499 m asl  mountains – Tatras, Beskids, Pieniny,
Gorce  foothills – Carpathian Foothills  uplands – Kraków-Częstochowa
Upland  lowlands – Vistula valley  main rivers – Vistula, Dunajec, Poprad,
Raba, Skawa, Biała  water reservoirs – Czorsztyński, Rożnowski, Czchowski,
Dobczycki, Klimkówka  the highest located, cleanest lakes – Morskie Oko,
Czarny Staw, the lakes of the Valley of Five Polish Lakes  the largest and
deepest cave – Wielka Śnieżna Cave: over 22 km of corridors, 824 m deep
MAŁOPOLSKA
Weekend trips
Planning the trip, photo by D. Zaród
Table of contents
Chapter I. Weekend trip around... Kraków . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Chapter II. Weekend trip around... Tarnów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Chapter III. Weekend trip around... Nowy Sącz . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Chapter IV. Weekend trip around... Zakopane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
T
he peaks of the High Tatra Mountains lost in the clouds,
the white rocks of the Kraków-Częstochowa Upland with
ruins of castles referred to as “eagles’ nests”, historic towns
with old, charming tenement houses, green forests and woods…
All are waiting for everyone who plans to expand their sightseeing in Małopolska outside big cities. Once you have have seen
Tarnów and Nowy Sącz, once you have explored Zakopane and
spent a few days in Kraków, it is worth continuing your sightseeing further afield. Around each of these areas you will find numerous places that are worth visiting and tourist trails hidden among
picturesque landscapes.
Owing to a rich topographical variety of Małopolska and a turbulent history, this region, like no other in Poland, can boast a huge
number of historic monuments and marvellous landscapes. If you
want to hike in the mountains, you should visit places around Zakopane or Nowy Sącz. If historic places are what you are looking
for, head for towns and villages surrounding Tarnów and Kraków.
In this guide you will find short descriptions of suggested routes
starting in each of the main tourist centres in Małopolska. These
routes are best for one day car trips, but many of them can be
walked or cycled.
1
Wawel Hill, photo by M. Zaręba
Pieskowa Skała, photo by M. Zaręba
Weekend around…
Kraków
Wieliczka Salt Mine, UMWM photo archive
Niepołomice, photo by J. Podlecki
The subterranean salt kingdom in Wieliczka
In the vicinity of Kraków you can find both rocky limestone
canyons, as well as boggy plains covered with wild forests.
You can set out on a trip among the hills or spend some
time in the kingdom of fishermen, that is in Dolina Karpia
(Carp Valley). Such landscape diversity provides great opportunities, and if you think of the built heritage that can
also be found here, you will realise that Kraków’s neighbourhood is no less interesting than the city itself.
Kraków-Częstochowa Upland is a perfect area to enjoy active leisure, especially hiking and cycling. Here you
can find Ojców National Park and a few landscape parks
protecting the picturesque region of Jura KrakowskoCzęstochowska (Jurassic Highland). It is also a great area
for rock climbing and horse riding, e.g. along the Jurassic
Horse Riding Trail.
The most interesting historic heritage sites in the neighbourhood of Kraków are inscribed on the UNESCO list. These
include: a salt mine in Wieliczka, founded in the 13th century, a marvellous group
of Calvary paths in Kalwaria Zebrzydowska, and an appalling memorial of the
World War II, the Auschwitz-Birkenau
concentration camp. The surroundings
of Kraków offer much more attractions,
so you can be sure that a trip in any direction will not be a waste of time.
2
At the distance of 12 km south of Kraków lies the town of
Wieliczka, where you will find a salt mine, founded in the
13th century, and now inscribed on the UNESCO list. The underground tourist route that leads through a network of corridors, huge chambers, and even chapels carved in salt (such
as the spectacular Chapel of St. Kinga with salt bas-reliefs and
altars) is the main attraction of the salt mine apart from the
underground Muzeum Żup Krakowskich (Kraków Saltworks Museum). It houses a collection of exhibits devoted
to the history and technology of salt mining. “On the surface” it is worth visiting the nearby Saltworks Castle (zamek
żupny) with the second part of the exhibition of the above
mentioned museum, which among other things, features
a collection of 400 salt shakers. You can also take a walk to
the nearby sloping main market square.
From Wieliczka you can head 16 km south for the town
of Dobczyce, passing a small Romanesque church in
Dziekanowice. On a rocky hill in Dobczyce, by the Dobczyckie lake, the ruins of a royal castle have remained to
this day. A few old wooden buildings that
have been moved here make up a small
heritage park in front of the castle gate.
Nearby, you can also find a Baroque
church built from the stones acquired
after the demolition of castle’s walls.
3
An alternative route takes you from Wieliczka to Niepołomice
(12 km to the east), where it is worth visiting a Renaissance royal castle with an arcaded courtyard and an interesting museum. In the town centre there is a Gothic church founded by king
Casimir the Great with two chapels: a Renaissance one of the Branicki family, and a Baroque one of the Lubomirski family. Beyond
Niepołomice stretches the Niepołomice Forest with many tourist trails. In the neighbourhood, one can also find the oldest female
convent in Małopolska – the Benedictine convent in Staniątki.
Wieliczka Salt Mine, Tourist Route, ul. Daniłowicza 10, Wieliczka, \ +48 12 2788302, / www.kopalnia.pl; › Apr–Oct,
daily 7.30am–7.30pm; Nov–March 8am–5pm; visits only with
a guide: Polish language speaking guide, PLN 50, concessions: PLN 37, foreign language speaking guide: PLN 65, concessions: PLN 51, photography and filming: PLN 10. Kraków
Saltworks Museum, ul. Zamkowa 8, Wieliczka, \ +48
12 2783266, / www.muzeum.wieliczka.pl; › same as
for the Tourist Route. Museum in Dobczyce Castle and
Heritage Park, \ +48 12 2711455, / www.zamek.dobczyce.pl; › Apr and Oct, Tue–Sun 10am–4pm; May–Jun and
Sept, Tue–Fri 10am–4pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm; Jul–Aug,
Tue–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat–Sun 10am–8pm; PLN 6, concessions: PLN 4. Museum of Modern Art in Niepołomice,
in a castle, ul. Zamkowa 2, Niepołomice, \ +48 12 2619851,
/ www.muzeum.niepolomice.pl; › daily, 10am–5pm;
PLN 3, concessions: PLN 2.
Niepołomice Forest, a bison, UMWM photo archive
4
Castle in Pieskowa Skała and the Mace of Herkules, photo by D. Zaród
A trip to Ojców and Pieskowa Skała
To the north east of Kraków stretches the picturesque land
of the Jurassic Highland, a limestone Kraków-Częstochowa
Upland. It is an extensive plateau covered with rocky monadnocks that are cut through by rocky gorges and deep
valleys. The longest and the most interesting one is Dolina
Prądnika (Prądnik Valley). The protected area of Ojców National Park constitutes its most scenic and precious part.
Travelling from Kraków it is best to go to Ojców, situated 25 km away. Here you can visit the ruins of a royal castle and the wooden chapel on water constructed directly above the waters of the Prądnik river. Numerous tourist
routes lead from Ojców, along the Prądnik Valley, to the
foot of many rocky walls and crags, e.g. to Brama Krakowska (Kraków Gate) at the end of Ciasne Skałki gorge, and
farther to Grota Łokietka (King Łokietek Cave). In the vicinity, you can also follow an interesting educational trail
up the Okopa mountain to Jaskinia Ciemna (Dark Cave)
or visit the Sąspówka gorge, a favourite place of beavers.
In the northern part of the park you will find the famous
monadnock called Maczuga Herkulesa (Mace of Hercules),
and behind it, on a cliff above Prądnik, there is an impressive
5
castle in Pieskowa Skała housing an interesting museum
of changes in art styles from medieval times to the 19th century, as well as a gallery of English paintings. The castle with
its arcaded courtyard, elegant loggia from the outside and
a reconstructed garden is one of the greatest examples of
Renaissance architecture in Małopolska.
On your way from Ojców to Pieskowa Skała you can visit the
hermitage of blessed Salome and a small Baroque church
in Grodzisko village. There was a wooden town here in the
early Middle Ages, and the 13th century saw the founding of
a convent of poor Clares, whose superior was Salome herself.
Coming back from Ojców through Sąspów and Jerzmanowice it is worth visiting the Wierzchowska Górna Cave,
which has been adapted for tourists and is the most interesting cave on the Jurassic Highland. You may also go to Bębło
to see an impressive Grodzisko rock (512 m asl) which is
the highest peak in the Polish Jura in the vicinity of Kraków.
Ojców Castle, › middle Apr–May and Aug–Sept, 10am–
4.45pm; Jun–Jul, 10am–5.45; Oct, 10am–3.45pm; first half
of Nov, 10am–2.45pm; PLN 2.50, concessions: PLN 1.50.
Pieskowa Skała Castle Museum, \ +48 12 3896004,
/ www.pieskowaskala.eu; › May–Sept, Tue–Thu 9am–5pm,
Fri 9am–1pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm; Apr and Oct, Tue–Thu,
Sat–Sun 10am–4pm, Fri 10am–1pm; Nov–March, Sat–Sun
10am–4pm; for both exhibitions: PLN 16, concessions: PLN 9.
Wierzchowska Górna Cave, \ +48 12 4110721, / www.
gacek.pl, › Apr and Sept-Oct, daily 9am–4pm; May–Aug,
9am–5pm; Nov, 9am–3pm; Jan–March, Sat–Sun 10am–3pm;
visits only with a guide, PLN 14, concessions: PLN 12.
Wierzchowska Górna cave, photo by M. Zaręba
6
The ‘glove’ rock, UMWM photo archive
A trip to Kraków Valleys Landscape Park
Many attractive landscapes can be found in the vicinity of Krzeszowice, a town 25 km west of Kraków. When
you go in this direction, it is worth seeing at least one of
a few gorges called Dolinki Krakowskie (Kraków Valleys).
They are protected as part of Kraków Valleys Landscape
Park. You can take a walk in the forested Kluczwody Valley with ruins of the knight’s castle and see an impressive rock gate at the end of the Bolechowicki Gorge. In
the Kobylańska Valley you can admire numerous crags,
walls and limestone ridges, and in the long Będkowska
Valley, among other things, a wall of Sokolica peak and
a real karst spring.
Nearby Krzeszowice, beech woods of the Eliaszówka
Valley hide a precious Baroque monument: the 17th century monastery of the Carmelites in Czerna village. In
neighbouring Paczółtowice there is a beautiful small
wooden church from the beginning of the 16th century.
There you can also find a large golf course Krakow Valley Golf. Instead of playing golf you can ski here in winter
and enjoy horse riding or a shooting range all year long.
South of Krzeszowice, behind a strip of vast woods,
there are magnificent ruins of Tęczyn Castle located on
a dormant volcano. Other attractions of the Tenczyński
Ridge include the rocky Mnikowski gorge and the Zimny
Dół nature reserve.
7
Carp Valley, UMWM photo archive
Castle in Oświęcim, photo by M. Zaręba
Oświęcim and its surroundings
Formerly a walled settlement by the Soła river, today Oświęcim is
quite a large town known mainly for the Nazi German concentration camp that existed here during World War II. Today, this
camp as a place of historic evidence and a memorial is inscribed
on the UNESCO list as “Auschwitz-Birkenau. Nazi German Concentration Camp (1940–1945)”. It consists of two separate concentration camps: the older and smaller concentration camp in Oświęcim
(Auschwitz), and a large concentration camp in the neighbouring
Brzezinka (Birkenau). Nazi German criminals killed around 1.5 million people here, most of whom were Jews.
In the centre of Oświęcim, it is worth visiting a castle and a renovated synagogue.
There are also two Gothic churches and
a reconstructed market square. The
town’s surroundings, especially the Vistula Valley towards the town of Zator, have
been known for centuries for carp ponds
and they are referred to as Dolina Karpia
(Carp Valley). It is a perfect place for fishing or watching water- and marshbirds.
8
Lipowiec castle, photo by M. Zaręba
Ethnographic Park, photo by M. Zaręba
On the way from Kraków to Oświęcim it is worth stopping in Wygiełzów. A large heritage park with numerous
wooden cottages, a church and a larch manor house is located here. Higher up, on a forested hill, you will see the
ruins of the Lipowiec Castle.
Memorial and Museum Auschwitz-Birkenau, ul. Wieźniów
Oświęcimia 20, Oświęcim, \+48 33 8448100, / www.auschwitz.
org. pl; › daily; Jun-Aug, 8am–7pm; May and Jun, 8am–6pm;
Apr and Oct, 8am–5pm; March and Nov, 8am–4pm; Dec–Feb,
8am–3pm; visits in the period between
May–Oct only with a guide: 18–38 PLN, in the
period between Nov–Apr without a guide: admission free. Dolina Karpia, Rynek 2, Zator,
\+48 33 8410584, / www.dolinakarpia.org.
Nadwiślański Ethnographic Park and Lipowiec Castle, ul. Podzamcze 1, Wygiełzów,
\ +48 32 6134062, / www.mnpe.pl; › daily, Apr–Sept, 8am–6pm; Oct–March, 8am–3pm;
8–21 PLN.
9
Kalwaria Zebrzydowska, UMWM photo archive
Calvary paths and the Pope’s town
Only 35 km from Kraków, over the hills and the green valleys of
the Beskids towers a magnificent church and monastery of the
Bernardines. Kalwaria Zebrzydowska is one of the most important centres of pilgrimage in Poland. A number of churches, chapels and shrines were built here at the beginning of the
17th century in order to create the Calvary paths, conceived as
a memorial of the Passion. Thanks to its beautiful landscape and
highly original buildings, this oldest Polish Calvary complex has
been inscribed on the UNESCO list. Kalwaria is also famous for
its mystery plays, which are staged every year on Good Friday.
Among the nearby places of interest is Lanckorona, which
has retained the charm of a small Galician town with its sloping, cobbled market square, and the reconstructed one-storey wooden houses.
If you visit Kalwaria Zebrzydowska, which used to be frequented by Karol Wojtyła as a place of prayer (also after he became
Pope), it is worth making a trip to Wadowice, the birthplace of
the Polish Pope, situated only 15 km to the west. The market
square in Wadowice is dominated by the tower of the the Virgin Mary’s Offertory Minor Basilica, a late-Gothic church from
the end of the 17th century, where Karol Wojtyła was baptised.
Next to the small tenement house where the future Pope was
born, there is a museum dedicated to his life. After the visit, you
can have a rest in the nearby cafe and enjoy a Wadowice cream
cake. From Wadowice it is worth going for a hike in the Low Beskids, to the Leskowiec peak and the neighbouring Groń Jana
Pawła II (the Mountain of John Paul II).
Family Home of John Paul II, ul. Kościelna 7, Wadowice,
\ +48 33 8232662, / www.domrodzinnyjanapawla.pl;
› May–Sept, Tue–Sun 9am–1pm and 2am–6pm; Oct–Apr,
Tue–Sun 9am–noon and 1pm–4pm; voluntary donations.
10
Town hall in Tarnów, photo by K. Gzyl
Weekend around...
Tarnów
Day trips from Tarnów offer many marvellous buildings
and monuments. In the Petrified City you can find original
sandstone monadnocks, formed in various shapes as a result of erosion. Not far from Tarnów, along the Dunajec valley, you can find picturesquely situated mountain lakes –
Czchowskie and Rożnowskie (described in the section on
weekend trips from Nowy Sącz). There are several spots
along the bank which have been adapted for swimmers.
You can also hire water sports equipment.
As for the original historic buildings around Tarnów, one
has to mention the late-Gothic church in Dębno, as well
as the magnificent aristocratic residence in Nowy Wiśnicz,
which was built at the turn of the 17th century. Bochnia
boasts the oldest Polish salt mine (even older than the one
in Wieliczka), whereas in Lipnica Murowana you can visit
a UNESCO-listed wooden church. Of tourist interest is also
Zalipie, with its living folk tradition and flower-patterned
houses and furniture.
11
Almost 10 km south of Wiśnicz, in the valley of the Uszwica
river, there is a village of Lipnica Murowana. It is famous not
only for the Easter Palm contest organised during the Palm
Sunday, but also for the UNESCO-listed wooden church of
St. Leonard.
On the way back to Tarnów, you should definitely visit
Dębno and see the beautiful little castle of the Dębiński
family, built of brick and stone at the end of the 15th century, which presently houses an interesting museum.
Bochnia Salt Mine, ul. Solna 2, \ +48 14 6153636, / www.kopalniasoli.pl; visits only with a guide; › Mon–Fri 9.30am, 11.30am
and 3.30pm, Sat and Sun every hour from 10.15am to 4.15pm;
Jan–March and Sept PLN 24, concessions: PLN 19; Apr–Dec
PLN 30, concessions: PLN 22; family ticket: PLN 77; Photography:
PLN 5. Nowy Wiśnicz Castle, ul. Zamkowa 13, \ +48 14 6128589,
/ www.zamekwisnicz.pl, › Apr–Oct, Mon–Thu 9am–4pm, Fri
9am–5pm, Sat 10am–5pm, Sunday and holidays 10am–6pm;
Nov–March, daily 9am–4pm; PLN 8, concessions: PLN 5. Koryznówka Manor House – Museum of Jan Matejko, part of
the Regional Museum in Tarnów, Stary Wiśnicz 148, \ +48 14
6128347; › Tue–Sat 10am–2pm, Sun 11am–3pm; PLN 5, concessions: PLN 3; photography: PLN 5, filming: PLN 10. Museum of
Antique Interiors – Dębno Castle, part of the Regional Museum
in Tarnów; Dębno 189, \ +48 14 6658035, / www.zamekdebno.pl; › Nov–Apr, Tue and Thu 10am–4pm, Wed and Fri 9am–
3pm, Sat and Sun 11am–2pm; Jul–Aug, open until 6pm; PLN
8, concessions: PLN 4.
Bochnia salt mine, photo by M. Zaręba
A taste of the Bochnia salt
The oldest operating salt mine in Poland is located in Bochnia. Here, like in Wieliczka, salt has been extracted since the
18th century. However, the salt mine in Bochnia was established a few dozen years earlier. A visit to this salt kingdom
is a little bit shorter than to Wieliczka and includes, among
other things, a visit to the chapel, the underground chambers and a display of old mining machines. The mine also
offers an underground slide and a ride on a colliery train.
From Bochnia, situated 45 km west of Tarnów, you can go
to Nowy Wiśnicz, which is only 5 km to the south. Here, by
the market square, you can find a few elegant tenement houses and a beautiful church from the early Baroque. The town is
located in the shadow of a hill with a marvellous Renaissance
castle of the Kmita family from the 15th and 16th century, which
was reconstructed in the following century by the Lubomirski family into a huge bastion fortress. At the foot of the castle there is an interesting and intimate wooden Koryznówka
Manor House, which houses the Museum of Jan Matejko.
12
Castle in Nowy Wiśnicz, photo by M. Zaręba
13
The Petrified City, photo by D. Gębuś
Zalipie, photo by P. Mierniczak
A trip to the Petrified City
Painted Cottages
Only 18 km south of Tarnów lies the town of Tuchów, where you
can find a Redemptorist monastery with a shrine of the Virgin
Mary. 11 km further down the Biała river valley, you will see the
village of Gromnik with its beautiful wooden church from 1727.
The road along the river then leads to Ciężkowice. In this town,
near the neo-Gothic church there is a market square surrounded by historic buildings from the 18th and 19th century, including arcaded wooden houses.
Near Ciężkowice extends the reserve of the Petrified City,
where you can see rocks in fanciful shapes reflected by their names,
such as: the Witch, the Badger, the Pyramids and the Town Hall.
On the other side of the Biała river valley, hidden in a quiet
park in Kąśna Dolna, you can find the manor house of Ignacy Paderewski, which currently houses a museum dedicated
to the life of the famous pianist.
Travelling up north from Tarnów, along Dunajec, through
Żabno, you will reach Zalipie, located 34 km from Tarnów.
This village is famous for the original tradition of decorating houses, farm buildings and even wells and kennels with
colourful flower patterns on a white background. The cottages are also decorated inside along with the house equipment. This tradition is still alive: there is an annual competition for the best decorated house. Tourists can admire the
beautiful old farm of Felicja Curyłowa, which is a classical
example of a decorated cottage from Zalipie.
On the way back to Tarnów, it is worth moving to the
western bank of Dunajec. Not far from Szczurowa is the village Dołęga, situated at the edge of a forest. This is a great
opportunity to get a taste of what a typical resi­dence of
the early 20th-century gentry looked like. In Dołęga there
is also a charming, classical manor house from around
1845, with the preserved interior design from the turn of
the century.
Manor house, Kąśna Dolna, UMWM photo archive
Felicja Curyłowa Farm, Zalipie 135, \ +48 14 6411912,
/ www.muzeum.tarnow.pl; › Tue–Sun 10am–2pm;
PLN 3, concessions: PLN 2, photography: PLN 5, filming: PLN 15. Manor House in Dołęga, Dołęga 10, \ +48
14 6715414, / www.muzeum.tarnow.pl; › Tue–Fri 9am–
3pm, Sat and Sun 10am–2pm; PLN 4, concessions: PLN 2.
14
15
Town hall in Nowy Sącz, photo by J. Gorlach
A weekend around...
Nowy Sącz
Orthodox church in Powroźnik, photo by P. Mierniczak
A trip down the Poprad river gorge
to Krynica
Nowy Sącz lies in the extensive mountainous valley, between
the hills of Beskid Wyspowy, Sądecki and the Low Beskids.
Around here you can enjoy a number of leisure activities,
such as hiking and cycling up steep slopes, peaks and mountain passes. A visit to Nowy Sącz is also a perfect opportunity
to explore the culture of the Ruthinian highlanders (the Lemkos) who live in the Low Beskids. Surrounded by mountains
are the beautiful wooden Orthodox temples, which have
subsequently been changed into Christian churches but
have preserved the three characteristic tall, bulbous towers.
Nowy Sącz is also the place to go for those who like
spending time close to water. You can choose between
the water reservoirs in Klimkówka, the Rożnowskie and
Czchowskie Lakes, where you can swim and practice various water sports.
In the winter you should visit the many skiing areas, including the cable-railway to Jaworzyna Krynicka, the new
skiing area in Rytro, and the biggest one in Wierchomla
Mała. Sightseeing Nowy Sącz is an occasion to visit “the waters”. The town is located very near numerous mineral water
springs, including the most beautiful spa in Krynica-Zdrój.
16
Stary Sącz is only 8 km from Nowy Sącz. Its vast market
square surrounded by historic low buildings is not the only
tourist attraction of the city. In the 13th century, a fortified
convent of St. Clare was founded by Princess Kinga, the
wife of Prince Bolesław V the Chaste. After her husband’s
death, Kinga became a nun, and nowadays she is recognised by the Catholics as a saint.
South of Stary Sącz the Poprad Valley narrows. Travelling
through Rytro, with its ruins of a 13th-century castle, you will
arrive at Piwniczna-Zdrój. Across Poprad, at the stretch between the two towns, flatboat rallies are organised.
In Muszyna you leave the Poprad Valley and head for
Krynica. On the way, you pass by the village of Powroźnik,
with its wooden Lemko Orthodox church from 1600.
Krynica-Zdrój is a famous spa situated at the foot of Jaworzyna Krynicka (1114 m asl). You can reach the top of
this mountain by cable railway. On the slope there is a ski
resort. The main attraction of the town centre are the impressive old wooden villas. One of them houses the museum of Nikifor Krynicki, a famous primitivist Lemko painter from the Low Beskids.
17
Sądecki Ethnographic Park, photo by M. Zaręba
Church in Tropie, UMWM photo archive
Czchowskie Lake, photo by S. Gacek
Around the Czchowskie
and Rożnowskie Lakes
The main road from Nowy Sącz to Brzesko cuts across very
picturesque lands. Right after passing Tęgoborze village you
drive into the mountain pass of St. Just (400 m asl), which
is a perfect vantage point. Another local tourist attraction is
the church of the Blessed Virgin Mary from the second half
of the 17th century, which is situated over the mountain pass.
Further, the road leads to the Czchowskie Lake. Right above
it, on a steep rock sits the Tropsztyn Castle. A few kilometres
further up north of Czchów, the remains of another castle appear in the form of a massive tower. In the town itself you can
visit the market square with wooden houses and a church
from the 13th century. Another temple from this period, the
church of Sts. Svorad and Benedict, can
be found in the nearby village of Tropie.
Side roads lead from Tropie to Rożnów,
which boasts a 16th-century bastion.
A little bit further, the valley is divided
by a concrete dam, thanks to which the
Rożnowskie Lake was formed. The scenic
routes lead from Rożnów through Gródek
by the Dunajec river, high over the eastern
slopes of the lake in the direction of Nowy
Sącz. The whole route is about 75 km long.
18
At the foot of the Low Beskids
Travelling from Nowy Sącz to the east, in the direction of
the Beskid hills, it is worth paying a visit to the biggest heritage park in Małopolska, i.e. Sądecki Ethnographic Park.
The most interesting village in the Low Beskids is Łosie,
once famous for the production of grease (used as a medication or lubricant). Today the Lemko culture and the travels of “greasers” from Łosie in particular, is portrayed at
a permanent exhibition and along the walking trail. Near
Łosie the Ropa River is separated with a dam, which creates
the Klimkówka Lake (conducive to windsurfing).
In the Ropa Valley, 34 km from Nowy Sącz, lies the town
of Szymbark, known for its interesting heritage park and
the manor of the Gładysz family, a fortified gentry residence from the 16th century.
A few kilometres further, in Gorlice, you may wish to see the
manor house of the Karwacjan family from the 15th century,
and a monument of the first street oil lamp, commemorating its inventor, Ignacy Łukasiewicz, who was born in Gorlice.
Sądecki Ethnographic Park, ul. Wieniawy Długoszewskiego 83b, \ +48 18 5331823, / www.muzeum.sacz.pl;
› May–Sept, Tue–Sun 10am–6pm; Oct–Apr, Mon–Fri
10am–2pm; PLN 12, concessions: PLN 7, Sat: admission free. The Prof. Roman Reinfuss Heritage Park of
Pogórzańska Village in Szymbark, / www.gorlice.
art.pl; › May–Sept, Tue–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat–Sun 9am–6pm;
Oct–Apr, Mon–Fri 9am–3pm; PLN 4 and PLN 7, concessions: PLN 2 and PLN 4, Thu: admission free.
19
A view on Giewont, photo by J. Gorlach
Cable car to Kasprowy Wierch, photo by J. Gorlach
A weekend around…
Zakopane
Zakopane and the Tatra Mountains
Zakopane is a place where you cannot run out of things to
do. The same goes for its surrounding areas, particularly
the majestic Tatra Mountains, which are a perfect tourist
destination in the summer and winter.
In the town itself you can find the original, wooden Podhale-style buildings. Taking a trip through Podhale, which is
one of the most important tourist regions in Poland, you can
encounter many precious monuments, e.g. a small UNESCOlisted church in Dębno Podhalańskie, as well as the great castles in Czorsztyn and Niedzica, which lie above the waters of
the Czorsztyńskie Lake. (In the summer swimming areas are
created around the lake along with places where you can hire
water sports equipment.) The biggest attraction of Pieniny
is rafting down the Dunajec river gorge. Water forcing its
way through rocky walls creates an unforgettable landscape.
In the winter, Zakopane offers high-quality ski slopes, including the famous runs on the slopes of Kasprowy Wierch,
Gubałówka, Szymoszkowa, and Antałówka. Other local
towns also known among ski lovers are Białka Tatrzańska
and Kluszkowce.
When you are finished skiing, you can have a rest in the
modern, recently opened baths with thermal waters. Such
baths can also be found in Zakopane, Bukowina Tatrzańska
and in Biały Dunajec.
Visiting Zakopane is a perfect opportunity to learn about
the wooden architecture of Podhale highlanders, and to see
the beautiful villas in Zakopane style, which was inspired by
the folklore of this region. It is worth visiting the Koliba villa, housing the Museum of Zakopane Style. Other unique
examples of the Zakopane style include the Pod Jedlami
villa and the charming chapel in Jaszczurówka designed
by Stanisław Witkiewicz, the creator of the Zakopane style.
In the vicinity of Krupówki, a famous Zakopane promenade, there is the grand building of the Tatra Museum devoted to the mountains, the Podhale folklore and the history of the exploration of the Tatra Mountains.
You can also find many churches and monasteries in Zakopane. However, most pilgrims go to the sanctuary of our
Lady of Fatima in Krzeptówki, which is run by the Pallotines
and strongly linked with John Paul II.
Before you travel from Zakopane
to the Tatra Mountains, it is worth taking a funicular railway to the top of
Gubałówka (1120 m asl). This picturesque mountain ridge emerges from the
north of Zakopane, just on the opposite
side of the Giewont peak. Another way
to admire the mountain panorama is to
20
21
take a ride on a cable car from Kuźnice to Kasprowy Wierch
(1985 m asl). The most beautiful lake in the Tatra Mountains is
Morskie Oko, lying at the foot of the highest peak in Poland,
Rysy (2499 m asl). The lake can be reached by a 10 km asphalt
road, also frequented by horse buses.
The best place to stop by and take a rest after an exhausting hike is a newly built water park at the foot of
Antałówka, which offers thermal water baths.
Tatra Museum in Zakopane – Main Building, ul. Krupówki 10,
Zakopane, \ +48 18 2015205, / www.muzeumtatrzanskie.pl;
› Wed–Sat 9am–5pm, Sun 9am–3pm; PLN 7, concessions:
PLN 5.50. The Museum of Zakopane Style, ul. Kościeliska 18,
Zakopane, \ +48 18 2013602, / www.muzeumtatrzańskie.
com.pl; › as above. Funicular Rail Gubałówka, ul. Na
Gubałówkę, Zakopane, \ +48 18 2014830, / www.pkl.pl;
› rides: July–Aug, 8am–9.45pm; Jan–June and Sept, 9am–
8pm; Oct, 9am–7pm; Nov–Dec, 9am–6pm; one way in high
season: PLN 10, return: PLN 15, concessions: PLN 8 and PLN 12.
Cableway to Kasprowy Wierch, Kuźnice, \ +48 18 2014510,
/ www.pkl.pl; › rides: return; Jul–Aug, 7.30am–7pm; Apr–Jun
and Sept–Oct, 7.30am–4pm; March, 7.30am–3.30pm; Feb,
7.30am–3pm; Nov-Jan, 7.30 am–2pm; one way in high season: PLN 32, return: PLN 42, concessions: PLN 27 and PLN 32.
Aqua Park Zakopane – thermal baths, ul. Jagiellońska 31,
\ +48 18 202 5815, / www.aquapark.zakopane.pl; › daily,
9am–10pm; PLN 13-60.
A view on Morskie Oko, UMWM photo archive
Chochołów, UMWM photo archive
Through Podhale and Orawa
Podhale, one of the most beautiful regions of Poland,
stretches at the foot of the Tatra Mountains. Several dozen years ago, all villages in Podhale only featured wooden
cottages with shingled roofs. At present, only the village
of Chochołów, situated 20 km from Zakopane, retained its
character. Some of the cottages in Chochołów were built
of massive timber logs, so that the entire wall was made
up of only two thick beams!
From Chochołów you may go through the extensive
peat bogs and flatlands of Kotlina Nowotarska until you
reach the Orawa region. Travelling through Czarny Dunajec and Jabłonka, you will get to the village of Orawka,
with a wooden, Gothic church from 1656. The folk buildings of the Orawa region do not resemble the architecture
of Podhale, which you can observe in the heritage park in
Zubrzyca Górna, displaying numerous cottages in Orawa
style, with wyżka, a chamber in the attic.
A tremendous massif of Babia Góra (1725 m asl), referred
to as the Queen of the Beskids, looms over Orawa. It is also
the highest peak of the Beskids. A trek to the peak is not
very demanding, as the road from Zubrzyca Górna takes
you up to the height of 1000 m, to the Krowiarki pass. This
trail leads through the area of Babia Góra National Park,
and the walk to Babia Góra takes approx. 2 hrs 30 minutes.
Orawa Ethnographic Park in Zubrzyca Górna, \ +48 18 285
2709, / www.orawa.eu; › daily, May–Sept, 8.30am–5pm;
Oct–Apr, 8.30am–2.30pm; PLN 18, concessions: PLN 12.
22
23
Oscypek cheese, UMWM photo archive
Tatra National Park, UMWM photo archive
It is worth making some stops on the way to or from Zakopane. In Chabówka, situated 40 km away from Zakopane,
there is the Rolling Stock Heritage Park with historic carriages and engines.
From Chabówka you can go through Jordanów to Sucha
Beskidzka (33 km). This town is famous for a beautiful renaissance castle, proudly bearing the name of “a small Wawel” owing to the charm of arcaded cloisters at the courtyard. In the centre of Sucha there is an 18th century wooden
tavern named Rzym (Rome), presently a restaurant.
Rolling Stock Heritage Park in Chabówka, \ +48 18 267 6200,
/ www.parowozy.pl; › daily, 7am–7pm; PLN 5, concessions:
PLN 2.5, tour with a guide: PLN 20. Municipal Museum in Sucha
Beskidzka castle, ul. Zamkowa 1, \ +48 33 874 2605, / www.
muzeum.sucha-beskidzka.pl; › May–Oct, Tue–Fri 9am–5pm,
Sat–Sun 10am–6pm; Nov–Apr, Tue–Fri 8am–4pm; Sat–Sun 9am–
3pm; PLN 6, concessions: PLN 4.
Sucha Beskidzka castle photo by P. Marekwica
Redyk herding, UMWM photo archive
Through Podhale in search of oscypek
For centuries, the highlanders in Podhale have pastured sheep
on grazing lands, situated high up in the mountains. Today, one
of the symbols of Podhale, and the most famous regional delicacy is oscypek, i.e. a smoked, hard sheep’s cheese.
There is a special Oscypek Route which leads through
the Podhale. It enables you to visit bacówki (shepherd’s
huts) in which local specialties are produced, including oscypek, a spicy bryndza (ewe’s milk cheese) and other delicacies made of sheep’s milk.
In the surroundings of Zakopane it is worth going for
a walk to the picturesque valleys of the Tatra Mountains:
Kościeliska and Chochołowska. In both of them you will
find huts producing oscypek, and along the way you can admire the landscape of the limestone Western Tatras. Oscypek
is also produced in Gorce. This mountain range, which includes Gorczański National Park, is rarely visited by the tourists, while a beautiful, extensive Hala Długa (Long Pasture)
at the foot of Turbacz (1310 m asl) is one of the places where
a shepherd hut producing oscypek can be found.
You can climb it from Kowaniec (district of Nowy Targ)
or from Łopuszna village, which is a less attended trail. In
Łopuszna it is also worth seeing a wooden church from
the second half of the 15th century, and an 18th century manor house of the Tetmajer family, now housing an interesting Museum of Gentry Culture.
Information about Oscypek Route: / www.tatry.pl. Muzeum Kultury Szlacheckiej (Museum of Gentry Culture),
ul. Gorczańska 2, Łopuszna, \ +48 18 2653919; › Wed–Sun
10am–4pm; PLN 6, concessions: PLN 4.50.
24
25
Rafting down Dunajec gorge, photo by T. Gębuś
View from the peak of Sokolica, photo by D. Zaród
Czorsztyn Lake, photo by J. Gorlach
Rafting down the Dunajec gorge to Pieniny
Around Czorsztyn Lake
The wonderful scenery of the Dunajec river gorge in Pieniny, with 300-metre rocks makes an unforgettable impression. Rafting on Dunajec between Sromowce and
Krościenko is one of the most unique tourist attractions in
Małopolska; therefore, it is worth coming here from Zakopane, even though it is a distance of 55 km.
Tourist routes through the Pieniny National Park lead to
vantage points on the peaks of Sokolica and Trzy Korony
(Three Crowns) (982 m asl), Pieniny’s highest mountain. A nearby town of Szczawnica is an old spa with numerous mineral
sources, historic wooden spa buildings, and a cable car to
the Palenica peak (719 m asl), from which you can take a trip
along the picturesque mountain range of Małe Pieniny. In the
neighbouring Jawory, you can find small charming nature reserves: Homole Gorge and Biała Woda Gorge.
At the foot of Pieniny and Gorce stretches a picturesque
Czchowskie Lake. On the lake shore you can find beaches
and water sports equipment rentals; sailing in such scenery is a pure pleasure!
On the southern side of the lake, just above the dam
that separates Dunajec and that contributed to the creation of the lake, towers the castle in Niedzica. This building was used as a watchtower on the Polish-Hungarian
border that used to run here. On the opposite side of Nidzica, on the steep hill, you will find the ruins of the castle in Czorsztyn. This fortress used to guard the Dunajec
crossing, and today it is adapted for sightseeing and constitutes a perfect vantage point.
On the opposite edge of the lake it is worth visiting
a picturesque Dębno Podhalańskie village. The church
of St. Michael the Archangel that can be found here is
a masterpiece from 1480, created by carpenter craftsmen.
It is also one out of four wooden churches in Małopolska
inscribed on the UNESCO list.
Rafting on Dunajec – The Polish Association of Pieniny Rafters, \ +48 18 2629721, / www.flisacy.com.pl; › rafts operate
from Apr–Oct; booking desks are open daily: May–Aug, 8.30am–
5pm; Sept, 8.30am–4pm; Apr, 9am–4pm; Oct, 9am–3pm; to
Szczawnica: PLN 44, concessions: PLN 22; to Krościenko: PLN 53,
concessions: PLN 26.50. Cable car - Palenica, ul. Główna 7, Szczawnica, \ +48 18 262199, / www.pkl.pl; › Jul–Aug and Jan–Feb,
9am–7.30pm; May–Jun, 9am–18.30pm; Sept, 9am–6pm; March–
Apr and Oct, 9am–5.30pm; Nov, 9am–4.30pm; Dec, 9am–3.30pm;
in high season: one way: PLN 8, return: PLN 12.
26
Museum of the Castle Complex in Niedzica, \ +48 18 2629489;
› May–Sep, daily 9am–7pm; Oct–Nov, Tue–Sun 9am–4pm;
PLN 9, concessions: PLN 7; visits only with a guide; ticket price
includes a visit to a tower and a coach house. The Ruins of the
Czorsztyn Castle, › May–Sep, daily 9am–6pm; Oct–Apr, Tue–
Sun 10am–3pm; PLN 4, concessions: PLN 2.
27
Małopolska Tourist Information
Punkty
Turystycznej
System Informacji
Points
KraKów
InfoKraków, ul. Powiśle 11, 31-101 Kraków
\+48 513 099 688,
[email protected]
InfoKraków, ul. Św. Jana 2, 31-018 Kraków
\+48 12 421 77 87
InfoKraków Os. Słoneczne 16,
31-958 Kraków
\+48 12 643 03 03
InfoKraków, ul. Józefa 7, 31-056 Kraków
\+48 12 422 04 71
InfoKraków Sukiennice,
Rynek Główny 1/3, 31-042 Kraków
\+48 12 433 73 10
InfoKraków Sanktuarium w Łagiewnikach,
ul. Siostry Faustyny 3, 30-608 Kraków
\+48 12 263 60 64
InfoKraków, ul. Szpitalna 25,
31-024 Kraków
\+48 12 432 01 10 InfoKraków Pawilon Wyspiański
pl. Wszystkich Świętych 2, 31-004
\+48 12 616 18 86
InfoKraków Międzynarodowy Port
Lotniczy w Balicach, 32-083 Balice
\+48 12 285 53 41
Myślenice
Rynek 27, 32-400 Myślenice
\+48 12 272 23 12,
[email protected]
wiśniowa
Wiśniowa 301, 32-412 Wiśniowa
\+48 12 271 44 93,
[email protected]
Dobczyce
ul. Podgórska 1, 32-410 Dobczyce
\+48 12 271 01 53,
[email protected]
olKusz
ul. Floriańska 8, 32-300 Olkusz
\+48 32 72 43 282,
[email protected]
Miechów
Plac Kościuszki 1A, 32-200 Miechów
\+48 41 383 13 11,
[email protected]
Tarnów
Rynek 7, 33-100 Tarnów
\+48 14 688 90 90,
[email protected]
Tuchów
ul. Chopina 10, 33-170 Tuchów
\+48 14 652 54 36,
[email protected]
Dąbrowa TarnowsKa
ul. Polna 13, 33-200 Dąbrowa Tarnowska
\+48 14 657 00 07, [email protected]
waDowice
ul. Kościelna 4, 34-100 Wadowice
\+48 33 873 23 65, it.wadowice@msit.
malopolska.pl
anDrychów
Rynek 27, 34-120 Andrychów
\+48 33 842 99 36,
[email protected]
sucha besKiDzKa
ul. Zamkowa 1, 34-200 Sucha Beskidzka
\+48 33 874 26 05,
[email protected]
oświęciM
ul. St. Leszczyńskiej 12, 32-600 Oświęcim
\+48 33 843 00 91,
[email protected]
chrzanów
Aleja Henryka 40, 32-500 Chrzanów
\+48 32 623 20 44,
[email protected]
Trzebinia
ul. Kościuszki 74, 32-540 Trzebinia
\+48 32 612 14 97,
[email protected]
zaKopane
ul. Kościeliska 7, 34-500 Zakopane
\+48 18 201 20 04,
[email protected]
poronin
ul. Józefa Piłsudskiego 2, 34-520 Poronin
\+48 18 207 42 98,
[email protected]
wiTów
Witów 239A, 34-512 Witów
\+48 18 207 18 98,
[email protected]
biały Dunajec
ul. Jana Pawła II 363, 34-425 Biały Dunajec
\+48 18 200 16 90,
[email protected]
białKa TaTrzańsKa
ul. Środkowa 16, 34-405 Białka Tatrzańska
\+48 18 533 19 59,
[email protected]
nowy Targ
Rynek 1, 34-400 Nowy Targ
\+48 18 266 30 36,
[email protected]
r abKa-zDrój
ul. Parkowa 2, 34-700 Rabka-Zdrój
\+48 18 269 15 53,
[email protected]
nowy sącz
ul. Szwedzka 2, 33-300 Nowy Sącz
\+48 18 444 24 22,
[email protected]
Krynica-zDrój
ul. Zdrojowa 4/2, 33-380 Krynica-Zdrój
\+48 18 472 55 77,
[email protected]
liManowa
Rynek, 34-600 Limanowa
\+48 18 337 58 00,
[email protected]
biecz
Rynek 1, 38-340 Biecz
\+48 13 447 92 47,
[email protected]
sęKowa
Siary 19, 38-307 Sękowa
\+48 18 351 87 70,
[email protected]