90 points

FEBRUARY
2014
CABERNET SAUVIGNON
RED-HOT WINTER WINE
90
POINTS
TOP-SCORING
WINES
30 NEW WINES
IN STORES
FEBRUARY 6 AND 20
SAVOURING
ARGENTINA
IN BUENOS AIRES
AND MONTREAL
Chef Natalia Machado
of Montreal’s
L’Atelier d’Argentine
IN STORES
FEBRUARY 6 AND 20
30 newly arrived wines.
TC Imprimeries Transcontinental, a division of Imprimeries Transcontinental S.E.N.C.
All correspondence should be addressed to: 1100 René-Lévesque Blvd. West,
24th Floor, Montreal, Quebec, H3B 4X9, CANADA. Telephone: 514-392-9000
[email protected]
CELLIER NEW ARRIVALS, published eight times a year, is produced and published by
TC media (www.tc.tc), in association with the following SAQ departments: Marketing;
Purchasing and Merchandising; Les Cours Connaisseurs; Communications; Quality
Management; Sales; and Legal Services. SAQ headquarters is located at
905 De Lorimier Avenue, Montreal, Quebec, H2K 3V9. CELLIER is a registered trademark
of the Société des alcools du Québec. Any reproduction of articles, illustrations or
photographs is strictly prohibited. Prices for products in the magazine are subject to
change without notice. Legal Deposit: Bibliothèque nationale du Québec, National
Library of Canada. ISSN 1911-2238. Publications Mail Agreement 40064963. Return
undeliverable addresses to CELLIER, 905 De Lorimier, Montreal, Que. H2K 3V9.
CONTENTS
FEBRUARY 2014
CHEF NATALIA MACHADO
06 ARGENTINIAN FLAVOURS
Not just the tango and
chimichurri.
90 POINTS PLUS
12 INSIDE THE NUMBERS
High wine ratings and
their impact.
CABERNET SAUVIGNON
22 CATCHING UP ON CAB
Focus on the world’s
most-planted red grape.
PHOTO: LOUISE SAVOIE
DIRECTOR – SPECIALTY PRODUCTS BUSINESS UNIT – SAQ
Michel-André St-Jean
MANAGER FOR SPECIALITY PRODUCTS, MARKETING – SAQ
Sophie Drouin
PUBLISHER – SAQ
Johanne Morrisseau
CONTRIBUTORS – SAQ
Marie-Lyne Alarie, François Beauregard, Éric Bertoldi, Liette Chaput,
François Couture, François Fortier, Pierre Lauzon, Martin de Lottinville,
Michel Martin, Marie-Ève Meunier, Catherine Ouimet, Julie Perreault,
Justin Rouette, Veronica Ruiz, Alain Smith
Médias Transcontinental S.E.N.C.
PUBLISHER – VICE PRESIDENT, CONSUMER SOLUTIONS
Lise Paul-Hus
EDITORIAL DIRECTOR
Catherine Elie
ART DIRECTOR
Renée Grégoire
LIFESTYLE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Josée Larivée
EDITORIAL STAFF
Catherine Bergeron, Myriam Huzel, Pascale Navarro
CONTRIBUTORS
Kler-Yann Bouteiller, Rémy Charest
COPY EDITORS
Joan Irving, Donna Jensen
TRANSLATOR
Felicity Munn
ART
Graphic artists
Blanca Arellano, Christiane Gauthier, Davor Nikolic
Photo coordinator
Esther Sainte-Croix
DIGITAL PRE-PRESS SERVICES
Sylvain Renaud (Director)
Linda Desjardins (Production Coordinator)
Jules Alexandre Obry
(Director of Deployment and Support Tablet Computers)
514-845-2211
ADVERTISING SALES
Sabrina Boucher – SAQ
514-254-6000, ext. 5115
SAQ CUSTOMER SERVICE
Montreal area: 514-254-2020
Elsewhere in Quebec: 1-866-873-2020
PRINTING
QUEBEC TERROIR
28 CIDRERIE ST-NICOLAS
The family behind
a great Quebec ice cider.
29 NEW ARRIVALS
Details on our specially
selected new releases.
ON THE COVER
Chef Natalia Machado on her Argentinian
roots and the Buenos Aires-style cuisine
she serves in Montreal.
CALENDAR OF EVENTS
• SALON DES VINS ET DES BIÈRES DE SHAWINIGAN
FEBRUARY 6
• LE MONDIAL DES CIDRES DE GLACE – ROUGEMONT
FEBRUARY 14 TO 16
• SALON COCKTAILS, BIÈRES IMPORTÉES ET VINS D’ÉTÉ – LAVAL
MARCH 1 AND 2
Limited quantities. No layaways are permitted until the Monday following
the release of products. Prices are subject to change without notice.
February 2014
3
FABULOUS FINDS OF ALL KINDS
MORE ACCESSIBLE THAN YOU THINK
MUST-TRY SELECTIONS
Affordable prices,
starting at $14.00
New arrivals
every two weeks
Wines identified
by taste tags
Products in
limited quantities
Audacious
Wine often reflects its origins,
and in Argentina the wines are an
extension of peoples’ zest for life.
ARGENTINA
PHOTOS: OCEAN/CORBIS (TANGO); EMILY ANNE EPSTEIN/CORBIS (GIBRALTAR).
T
here is nothing bland about
Argentina. From the broad avenues
of Buenos Aires on the magnificent
Rio de la Plata to the towering Andes
flanking the country to the west, from
the canyons in the north to the arid plains in the
centre, almost everything seems writ large.
So it is with the wines: They’re expressive
and sunny, generous and assertive. But then,
Argentina has the requisite climate, with
sunshine to spare and the kind of heat that
beautifully ripens grapes. When producers
want cool weather, they have to work at finding
it, by heading south to Patagonia or climbing
into the foothills. Argentina is home to the
highest vineyard in the world, at an altitude
of 3,100 metres, owned by Bodegas Colomé.
The distinctive style and identity of
Argentina’s wines is not meant solely for
impressing overseas markets: Fully 75 percent
of the country’s production is consumed
domestically. Malbec – whether as a varietal
wine or blended with Cabernet Sauvignon,
Merlot or, more recently, Petit Verdot – goes
perfectly with local fare. Typical dishes include
the famous grilled beef with chimichurri, a
flavourful sauce of dried herbs and hot peppers.
Also popular are braised lamb, stews and
the hundreds of variations on empanadas –
turnovers stuffed with meat, cheese or veggies.
Argentinian cuisine is generous, and it calls for
equally expansive wines.
Wine in Argentina is part of daily life, like
football (soccer to us) and the tango. Not the
sequined tango shows for tourists, but the
performances in small bars that draw Buenos
Aires residents. To Argentinians, the tango, at
once melancholy, tragic and beautiful, is not just
a dance but a lifestyle. Argentina offers many
delights that are remarkable for their flair.
Buenos Aires is one of the
liveliest cities in the world.
The Gibraltar, an English pub in
the San Telmo historic district,
reflects the enduring British
cultural influences in the
capital, despite the turbulent
history of the two nations.
February 2014
7
IN STORES
FEBRUARY 6 AND 20
Audacious
ARGENTINA (CONTINUED)
FEBRUARY 20
NATALIA MACHADO
Daughter of an architect and a journalist, Natalia
Machado found her calling when she took a simple
cooking course. Raised in Buenos Aires, she spent
her summers in Patagonia and today favours both
urban and seaside cuisine. After two years at the
Buenos Aires eatery Voodoo, she worked with chef
Maricel Presilla near New York City and is now
the chef at Montreal’s L’Atelier d’Argentine, where
she aims to increase awareness of her homeland’s
food and wine. She adores Argentinian barbecues
and all her dishes express her Spanish, Italian,
Irish and French influences.
PHOTO À VENIR
ARGENTINA
2017
DURIGUTTI, CABERNET SAUVIGNON
2011, MENDOZA
L’ATELIER D’ARGENTINE
N
atalia Machado is amused
by the clichés about her
native Argentina. “Yes, for
us chimichurri is like ketchup
for an American,” says the
35-year-old executive chef and mother
of two toddlers. “But we do not all dance
the tango. The preferred decor is not
always red and black. Argentinian cuisine
incorporates all sorts of influences.” The
polenta that accompanies her lamb recipe
(opposite page) is an example. Machado,
who first learned cooking from her mother,
also notes that Argentina has a highly
developed wine culture. “A bottle of wine
8
February 2014
is opened every night in most homes,
and nobody gets judgmental if you have
a glass with lunch. In fact, it’s common.”
She remarks that wine with lunch is
becoming acceptable again in Quebec,
but adds that for a long time her sense
was that Quebecers were intimidated
by wine. “There was a time when you
were supposed to be able to detect the
characteristics, the blends, etcetera. But
in my view, you don’t have to be an expert
to like wine. You just have to let yourself
enjoy the experience. Wine is pleasure
on the palate, and the ideal companion
to a good meal in good company.”
$19.55 12088492, 750 ML,
13.4%, ABV
NUMBER OF CASES: 149
With its toasty profile, a Cab Sauv
for fans of modern wines. A robust
affair that calls for equally strong
food flavours.
GRAPES: CABERNET SAUVIGNON,
CABERNET FRANC, PETIT VERDOT
AROMAS
BLACKCURRANT, BARLEY
SUGAR, COFFEE,
LICORICE, SMOKE
ACIDITY – MODERATE
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
BODY – FULL
MOUTH – GENEROUS
WOOD – EVIDENT
BRAISED LAMB SHANKS
NATALIA MACHADO PHOTOS: LOUISE SAVOIE, PHOTOGRAPHER; ANTHONY MCLEAN, ASSISTANT. HAIR AND MAKEUP: GÉRALD BÉLANGER (GLOSS ARTISTE). STYLIST: EMMANUELLE NÉRON.
RECIPE PHOTO: DANA DOROBANTU, PHOTOGRAPHER; WILLIAM COLE, ASSISTANT. FOOD STYLING: BLAKE MACKAY. ACCESSORIES STYLIST: CAROLINE SIMON.
WITH HONEY-MALBEC SAUCE
Recipe by Natalia Machado
INGREDIENTS
Lamb Shanks
30 mL (2 tbsp) extra-virgin olive oil
2
lamb shanks, 450 g (1 lb) each
3
cloves garlic, peeled
2carrots, washed and coarsely sliced
1 celery stalk, washed
and coarsely sliced
1
large onion, coarsely chopped
5 mL (1 tsp) smoked paprika
1 litre (4 cups) Malbec wine
250 mL (1 cup) water
60 mL (1/4 cup) honey
1
clove garlic, slightly crushed
1
sprig fresh rosemary
Salt and freshly ground pepper,
to taste
Garnish Creamy polenta*
2
sprigs fresh rosemary
12 cherry tomatoes
Olive oil for drizzling
Salt and freshly ground pepper,
to taste
* For details on the creamy polenta,
see the full recipe at SAQ.com.
RECIPE AT SAQ.COM
DIRECTIONS 2 SERVINGS
Preparation: 25 minutes Cooking: 2 1/2 hours
STEP 1
Position a rack in the centre of the oven
and preheat to 180°C (350°F).
STEP 2
In a large ovenproof saucepan, heat the olive
oil on medium. Season the lamb shanks with
salt and pepper and brown on all sides, about
five minutes per side.
STEP 3
Skim off excess fat and add the garlic, carrots,
celery and onion to the saucepan. Cook for
five minutes, or until the onion is translucent.
Stir in the paprika. Deglaze with three cups
of the red wine and boil for a few minutes. Add
the water, cover and cook in the oven for about
two hours, or until the meat is fork tender.
Turn the shanks at least twice during cooking.
STEP 4
Remove the shanks from the oven, transfer
to a plate and cover. Strain the cooking
juices into a separate saucepan and add the
remaining wine plus the honey, crushed garlic
clove and rosemary sprig. Simmer on medium
until reduced to about 250 mL (1 cup) of syrupy
sauce. Adjust seasoning, place the lamb shanks
in the sauce, cover and simmer on low until
the shanks are heated through.
TO ASSEMBLE
Place a portion of polenta in the centre of
two deep serving plates. Top with the lamb
shanks and drizzle with the sauce. Garnish
with a rosemary sprig and a few halved cherry
tomatoes. Finish with a sprinkle of olive oil.
February 2014
9
BEHIND THE WINE MICHEL ROLLAND | ARGENTINA
CLOS DE LOS SIETE
AT A GLANCE
FEBRUARY 20
Consulting in Argentina since
1988, Michel Rolland persuaded
several friends and associates
from some of Bordeaux’s leading
winemaking families to join him
in an Argentinian venture.
The group planted the first vines
at Clos de los Siete in 1999 and
produced its first wines in 2002.
Each partner has a “château” on
the 850-hectare Clos de los Siete
property, which sits at an altitude
of 1,100 metres and boasts a
breathtaking view of the Uco
Valley in Mendoza, Argentina’s
main wine region.
The first foreign wine
consultant in Argentina,
Michel Rolland has
profoundly influenced
the new, modern face
of Argentinian wine.
• Renaissance of Argentinian wine When Michel Rolland
arrived in Argentina at the behest of Arnaldo Etchart, he found an
industry focused on turning out huge volumes of poor-quality wine
for the local market. It needed to raise the bar for the export market;
hence the call that went out to international consultants.
• Learning curve Arnaldo Etchart’s son Marcos, who works with
Rolland at the excellent San Pedro de Yacochuya winery, sums up the
impact of the famed Bordeaux consultant: “When Michel got here, we
knew very little. We didn’t even know when to harvest if we wanted
truly ripe grapes.”
• Modern and efficient Under the influence of Rolland and several
other consultants such as the American Paul Hobbs, wineries were
modernized and viticulture upgraded. Argentina, in short, positioned
itself to play in the big leagues. Now the fifth-largest wine producer in
the world, it has seen the value of its exports multiply tenfold since the
mid-1990s.
• Leading by example At Clos de los Siete, Rolland oversees
all the properties (including the Diamandes and Monteviejo bodegas).
At each winery, he personally selects the barrels of wine that will go
into Clos de los Siete, a Malbec-based cuvée that’s flavourful, elegant
and utterly exemplary of modern Argentina.
ARGENTINA
2019
MONTEVIEJO, LINDAFLOR
PETITE FLEUR 2010,
VALLE DE UCO
$25.40 12088273, 750 ML,
14.5% ABV
NUMBER OF CASES: 150
A charming blend by one of a
group of seven distinguished
French winemakers based
in Argentina.
GRAPES: MALBEC, SYRAH, MERLOT
AROMAS
PLUM, VIOLETS,
PEPPER, OAK
ACIDITY – MODERATE
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
BODY – FULL
MOUTH – STRUCTURED
WOOD – EVIDENT
The individual Clos de los Siete winemakers built grand,
modern wineries that look out on the majestic Andes peaks.
FEBRUARY 20
ARGENTINA
DIAMANDES, CHARDONNAY 2012,
VALLE DE UCO
$21.95 12088513, 750 ML,
14.5% ABV
NUMBER OF CASES: 125
An exceptional Chardonnay from
an Argentinian winery operated
by the proprietors of prestige
Bordeaux estates.
GRAPE: CHARDONNAY
AROMAS
APRICOT, PEACH,
PEAR, NUTMEG
ACIDITY – MODERATE
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
BODY – MEDIUM
MOUTH – GENEROUS
WOOD – EVIDENT
• Malbec
Originally cultivated in
the Cahors region, Malbec
spearheaded Argentina’s growth
in international markets. Smooth,
round, fruity and friendly, it
is the go-to grape variety for
Argentinian producers.
• Blends
Bonarda, Cabernet Sauvignon,
Merlot and Syrah also play an
important role in Argentina’s
reds. Often they’re blended with
Malbec, as in Lindaflor’s Petite
Fleur, which includes 20-percent
Syrah and 10-percent Merlot.
• Whites
Reds dominate but Argentina produces
nice whites as well. The Torrontés
grape, a local speciality, can yield
very aromatic and generous wines,
though most wineries are now aiming
for a fresher, livelier style. Argentinian
Chardonnays, meanwhile, are round
and sunny.
• Global and Local
Argentina’s wines have conquered
the world market – and also
Argentinians, who love these wines.
That stands to reason, since the
expressive reds are a perfect match
for all that barbecued beef.
90-Plus Wines
SCORING BIG
Famed American critic Robert Parker with his dog Buddy and eight bottles of fine Bordeaux.
Parker’s 100-point scoring system has had a profound impact on the wine world.
12
February 2014
What do wine scores
mean, exactly? What
lends such prestige to
scores of 90 and up?
And how can you use
these rating systems to
find wines that you like?
Robert Parker’s tastes run
to big, ripe, tannic wines.
What you need to decide
is whether those are your
kinds of wines too.
PHOTO: CONTOUR BY GETTY IMAGES.
S
ome people swear by wine scores, while
others say they’re too simplistic. The
100-point scale used by Robert Parker,
Wine Spectator and the like are a perennial
hot topic. The magic barrier of 90 points –
there are buyers who won’t even look at a wine rated
lower than that – sparks particularly fierce debate.
Why is there such interest in wine scores? Maybe it’s
because when you’re trying to choose a wine from
a display of 19 Bordeaux cuvées or 27 New World
Chardonnays, it can be pretty confusing.
If you’re not an expert, you can try reading the label,
but a certain amount of knowledge is required to fully
understand the information on it. You could read the
back label too – and inevitably, it’s going to tell you
the wine is excellent. Not much help... So there you
are, trying to decide on a wine, aware that friends and
dinner are waiting. And then you spot, on the shelf or
on a bottle, a sticker proclaiming “90 points.” Under
the circumstances, it seems as good a reason as any
for picking this wine: Must be good, with a score like
that,” you think, reaching for the bottle.
Realistically, the experience of a wine – its colour,
aromas, mouthfeel, tannins, acidity, length, structure,
and so on – cannot be encapsulated in a simple
number. But consumers definitely get something out
of wine scores. We know this because the scores are
always spotlighted. As Andrew Jefford, columnist
for the British magazine Decanter, recently wrote,
“Scores for wines are philosophically untenable,
aesthetically noxious – but have great practical value.
Wine scores will, therefore, be with us for as long as
human beings drink wine.”
Objectively, a high score should mean the wine is
high quality. It’s hard to imagine that a wine that got
92 points from one or another critic is going to turn
out to be plonk.
All the same, scores also reflect the preferences of the
appraiser. No matter how professional a critic is, if he
likes fresh and lively wines, he may give a higher score
to wines of that ilk. The same goes for a reviewer who
has a taste for big fruit bombs – that, of course, being
an accusation frequently levelled at Parker, who has
been the most powerful wine critic in the world for the
last 30 years, and who originated the 100-point scoring
system. Over time a tendency has developed to assign
a kind of absolute value to Parker’s ratings: His highest
score corresponds to the best wine, period. But his
critics argue that Parker scores reflect Parker’s taste and
Parker’s palate, rather than being part of a quest for the
best wine out there.
PARKER AND YOU
By his own admission, Parker has a preference for
ripe, substantial wines with a strong tannic structure
and low acidity. No surprise, then, that he’s inclined
to award his top scores to wines from Bordeaux’s hot,
sunny years rather than to fresh Loire cuvées or more
delicate Pinot Noirs. The not-unreasonable conclusion
is that his highest score is going to go to his favourite
style of wine.
If your tastes are similar to his, that makes life
easy. If your tastes are different, you have to take
his 95 points with a grain of salt. Keep these notions
in mind, and you’ll be able to make smart use of his
scores when buying wine.
February 2014
13
SCORING BIG (CONTINUED)
Delicately woody, Almirez
also brims with ripe red
and dark fruit, resulting
in a generous wine that
envelops the palate. The
flavours of the morels
and sweet spices in our
frittata ( photo at left )
are marvellous with the
notes of dark fruit in
this Spanish wine. In
short, mushrooms plus a
Tempranillo matured
in oak barrels equals
a winning combo.
– Sommelier
Kler-Yann Bouteiller
EASY GOURMET
Mushroom Frittata
BEST IN CLASS
A sharp and intense Riesling can get 95 points.
So can a rich and complex Chardonnay or an
exceptionally delicate Pinot. In order that there
be no comparing of apples and oranges, wines
are scored in specific contexts. Every issue
of Robert Parker’s The Wine Advocate states
that the numerical rating given is a guide to
what Parker thinks of the wine “vis-à-vis its
peer group.” At the American magazine Wine
Spectator, wines are scored at tastings by
columnists who do not know the identity of the
wines, but they do know what region they’re
from: A Chablis is judged in comparison with
14
February 2014
other Chablis, a Chianti in relation to other
Chiantis, and so on.
Senior editor James Molesworth is irked by the
perception in some quarters that Wine Spectator
gives high scores only to hedonistic, fruit-driven
wines. He says it’s simply not true, noting that
the magazine awards as many high scores to,
say, German Rieslings as it does to California
Syrahs. “Style is ultimately not the arbiter of
the final review – quality is,” he declares. The
bottom line is that each wine is a fine example
in its category, and that’s the message Wine
Spectator wants to get across to readers.
FRITTATA: DANA DOROBANTU, PHOTOGRAPHER; WILLIAM COLE, ASSISTANT.
ACCESSORIES STYLIST: CAROLINE SIMON. FOOD STYLIST: BLAKE MACKAY.
RECIPE AT SAQ.COM
IN STORES
FEBRUARY 6 AND 20
FEBRUARY 20
WA 94 FEBRUARY 20
WS 92 Scored in the 90s, this Riesling is
ready to drink but will also deliver
excellent results if you have the
patience to cellar it for a few years.
GETTING TO KNOW YOU
SPAIN
2021
TESO LA MONJA,
ALMIREZ 2011, TORO
$28.50 12120691, 750 ML,
14.5% ABV
GERMANY
2017
ROBERT EYMAEL, MÖNCHHOF SLATE
RIESLING SPÄTLESE
QMP 2011, MOSEL-SAAR-RUWER
NUMBER OF CASES: 200 (6 BOTTLES)
$26.40 11399643, 750 ML,
8.5% ABV
Praised by Robert Parker,
Almirez gets appealing
freshness from its highelevation terroir and richness
from its barrel aging.
NUMBER OF CASES: 125
“Versatile” is the perfect word for
this wine, which can be enjoyed
either as an aperitif or at meal’s end.
Easy-drinking and subtly sweet.
GRAPE: TEMPRANILLO
GRAPE: RIESLING
AROMAS
BLACKCURRANT, GROUND
CHERRY, BARLEY SUGAR,
VANILLA, MOLASSES
ACIDITY – MODERATE
AROMAS
PEACH, PEAR,
HYDROCARBONS,
MINERALITY
ACIDITY – MODERATE
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
SUGAR LEVEL – OFF DRY
BODY – FULL
BODY – MEDIUM
MOUTH – STRUCTURED
MOUTH – DELICATE
WOOD – PRONOUNCED
WOOD – UNOAKED
A score can certainly be a general
indicator of wine quality. But you
need to go beyond that simple number
to get the most out of the wines you
choose. Scores have to be considered
in relation to tasting notes too: If
smoky and chocolatey aromas turn
you off, a wine that gets 98 points
but is also described as having that
aromatic profile may well disappoint
you. It’s like with movies: If a critic
gives five stars to an American
romantic comedy but you hate that
film genre, you’re not going to waste
an evening on it. Wine scores are
simple but the world of wine is
complex. Sample different wines.
Take notes. Try to figure out why
you like one wine better than another.
Explore new regions and new grapes.
If you buy a wine after reading a
review, compare your impressions
with those of the critic. Eventually
you’ll have created your own wine
guide with your own assessments that
will give you a greater understanding
of wine scores and let you make
choices that are better for you.
February 2014
15
TOP
NIVEAU!BIG(SUITE)
SCORING
(CONTINUED)
Having a drink on high, with a view of the rooftops, is the latest Parisian trend. But you have to line up to get in to Le Perchoir. Heavens!
FEELING THE LOVE
16
February 2014
SKY-HIGH SIPPING
In Paris these days, they go “au rooftop”
for drinks. The “see and be seen” trend
is finished and going clandestine is the
latest thing. Le Perchoir on Rue Crespin
fits the bill because the cognoscenti can
have a drink there without being seen. The
establishment is housed in an anonymous
tower where an elevator takes you to the
seventh floor – and you find yourself in
seventh-heaven Paris. Like any city building
where residents like to have a drink on the
rooftop, Le Perchoir is decked out with
mismatched couches and big, casual tables.
The restaurant is one floor down. “That’s
because here, the drinks take precedence
over the food,” jokes Laura, the sommelier.
PHOTO: CEPHAS PICTURE LIBRARY/ALAMY (D. NIEPOORT).
Although you can always quibble about whether a wine
genuinely merits its rating, you have to remember that
scores are also a function of the critic’s enthusiasm.
This is where wine ratings become a truly useful
indicator: A good score reflects pleasure. Reviewers,
even those whose ratings are apt to be on the inflated
side, do not give their best scores to wines that leave
them indifferent.
High-profile American wine importer Kermit Lynch
is often seen as a kind of anti-Parker because he likes
easy-drinking, friendly wines such as Beaujolais and
wines from the Loire. In a recent interview with The
New York Times, Lynch had this to say: “I’ve read so
many times that Parker’s great secret or invention or
whatever – his route to fame and power – was that
100-point scoring system. I always thought it was his
writing. He’s great at expressing his enthusiasm. You
want to feel that way yourself. I want to get all excited!”
Fundamentally, what probably matters most is that
the wine you are drinking makes you feel enjoyment,
enthusiasm and contentment. Now there’s a concept
that would score 100 on anyone’s scale.
WINE REGION 90-PLUS WINES | DOURO
• High marks for Portugal In the last
two decades, northern Portugal’s Douro Valley
has developed excellent red and white dry
table wines.
• Niepoort points the way Dirk Niepoort,
heir to a port-producing family, was one of the
major architects of this change in direction.
At turn of the 2000s, he advised and supported
young winemakers in their efforts to produce
world-class wines.
• Changing of the guard Niepoort had
to overcome resistance: His father was firmly
opposed to the son not concentrating all his
energies on port. The son has since become
an international touchstone.
• Distinctive signature Wines from the
Douro hills are made from indigenous grapes–
including Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca
and Tinta Cão in reds and Alvarinho, Loureiro
and Avesso in whites – that are unique to
their terroir. This gives the wines an unusual
signature that has carved a place for them on
the international scene.
Dirk Niepoort,
the heir with flair.
FEBRUARY 20
JR 16.5 WS 92 PORTUGAL
2016
NIEPOORT, VERTENTE 2009, DOURO
$24.85 10371665, 750 ML,
13.5% ABV
Douro
NUMBER OF CASES: 300 (6 BOTTLES)
A grape blend normally used for ports,
here results in an impressive dry wine.
Outstanding value.
Pinhão
Porto
Vila Nova de Gaia
GRAPES: TOURIGA FRANCA, TINTA RORIZ
Atlantic O
cean
Rio Douro
Spain
AROMAS
DRIED FRUIT (DATES,
PLUMS, RAISINS)
ACIDITY – MODERATE
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
BODY – MEDIUM
MOUTH – GENEROUS
WOOD – EVIDENT
IN STORES
FEBRUARY 6 AND 20
SCORING BIG (CONTINUED)
JR 16
WS 92 FEBRUARY 20
Rasteau and other
Rhône Valley
wines pair well
with the local
cuisine, regarded
as one of the best
in the world.
Cuisine
TÊTEDOIE ON TOP
Michelin-starred chef Christian Têtedoie
has worked in Lyon for more than 30 years.
He started from nothing, rising eventually
to the top in a city legendary for its cuisine.
T
êtedoie restaurant in Place de
l’Antiquaille boasts a lofty view
of Lyon. Also on the premises
are Le Phosphore wine bar
and, on the top floor, an openair terrace where à la plancha dishes are
served. Chef Christian Têtedoie is stopped
on the street as if he were a rock star –
which in a way he is, given his efforts on
behalf of numerous humanitarian causes,
mainly involving young people. Têtedoie
has an equal appreciation of haute cuisine
and old-style traditional fare. The owner
of several restaurants of different types,
he says it takes certain basic qualities
to achieve great success. One of them
is generosity. “You have to want to give
people pleasure.”
You also have to be a real whiz in the
kitchen to recreate Têtedoie’s recipes.
His specialty, lobster imported from
Quebec accompanied by braised tête
de veau, is a delight, to put it mildly, but
the recipe requires exceptional skills.
Têtedoie adds delicious twists to every
classic. As just one example, his French
onion soup features truffled ham and is
garnished with ripened Comté cheese.
It’s enough to make you wish winter would
go on forever!
18
February 2014
REGIONAL PAIRING
The Perrin family’s ample and
voluptuous Rasteau is made
mainly from Grenache, the
primary grape in this Rhône
Valley appellation. Intensely
fruity and full of sunshine,
Grenache harmonizes with
the soft texture of many Lyon
specialties. With its silky tannins,
this cuvée could be paired
with several of chef Christian
Têtedoie’s dishes, including his
pig’s trotters and his lobster with
tête de veau. Syrah, the accessory
grape in the wine, mingles with
the root vegetables – salsifies,
carrots, parsnips – served with
the lobster, creating an anise hint
in the mouth and generating an
impression of delicate freshness.
– Sommelier Kler-Yann Bouteiller
FRANCE
2017
FAMILLE PERRIN,
L’ANDÉOL 2010, RASTEAU
$19.45 10678149, 750 ML,
13.5% ABV
NUMBER OF CASES: 125
Tiny production from a twohectare vineyard site. Matured
mainly in stainless steel,
so showing great fruit purity.
GRAPES: GRENACHE, SYRAH
AROMAS
PEPPER, CHERRY, SWEET
SPICES, CINNAMON
ACIDITY – MODERATE
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
BODY – MEDIUM
MOUTH – GENEROUS
WOOD – SUBTLE
Trends abound in
food-centric Lyon.
Alongside the city’s
traditional bouchons,
establishments like
Têtedoie serve up
innovative, modern,
smart and creative
cuisine.
Chef Robuchon and his
brigade believe that dishes
should be a treat for the
eyes. Ingredients are of
outstanding quality, from
fish (as in the sole à la
plancha shown here) to
mini burgers and fries.
IN STORES
FEBRUARY 6 AND 20
SCORING BIG (CONTINUED)
WS 90 FEBRUARY 6
L’Atelier Robuchon
DEMOCRATIZING FINE DINING
Multi-Michelin-star chef Joël Robuchon
rewrote the fine-dining rule book to give
the world haute French cuisine minus
the stuffy attitude. Mon dieu!
T
he moment you set foot in Joël
Robuchon’s L’Atelier in Paris’s
legendary Saint-Germain-desPrés quarter, you sense the
tremendous attention to detail.
You eat at the counter, but this is hardly
your average diner.
On the other side of the counter is the
kitchen. It’s not every day that you get to
watch the kitchen brigade at a three-star
restaurant working right in front of you –
Le meilleur est devant vous, as the slogan
at L’Atelier Saint-Germain goes (there is
another L’Atelier on the Champs‑Élysées).
On this rainy Sunday lunchtime, about
40 people are both audience and customers.
“Joël Robuchon is one of the most
important chefs of the last 100 years,”
Anthony Bourdain once declared on
his TV show No Reservations. “At his
restaurant, the simplest sole meunière
is perfection itself.” You have to experience
this food to understand. It’s about ultrafresh ingredients and exploding flavours.
Every mouthful is unique.
Robuchon created L’Atelier in order to
democratize fine dining. He was the man
who, taking a page from what was going on
in New York and Tokyo, launched the openkitchen trend in Paris’s haute eateries.
CHARDONNAY AND
SOLE MEUNIÈRE
When fresh white wines seem
less appealing in winter, Casa
Concha’s Marques Chardonnay
is a good option. Ample and
rich, it has a fruitiness that
reminds you the grapes ripened
in sunny Chile. This barrelaged Chardonnay features
notes of browned butter, also
found in classic sole meunière
(see recipe at SAQ.com). As
a wine from a coastal region,
it shows acidic nuances that
complement the splash of
lemon juice in the sauce.
Altogether the perfect pairing,
with the wood and freshness in
the wine marrying respectively
with the richness and acidity
in the dish.
– Sommelier Kler-Yann Bouteiller
CHILE
CONCHA Y TORO, MARQUES
DE CASA CONCHA CHARDONNAY
2011, VALLE DEL LIMARÍ
$20.00 11416141, 750 ML,
14% ABV
NUMBER OF CASES: 125
From a major Chilean producer,
a Chardonnay with fruity
and grilled notes, plus wood
that is complementary rather
than excessive.
GRAPE: CHARDONNAY
AROMAS
PINEAPPLE, TOASTED
ALMONDS, WHITE FRUIT
ACIDITY – LIVELY
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
BODY – MEDIUM
MOUTH – RICH
WOOD – EVIDENT
February 2014
21
IN STORES
FEBRUARY 6 AND 20
Cabernet Sauvignon
RED HOT
Why is this wine so popular the planet over? There
are as many answers to that as there are Cab Sauv
styles. We’re certain of one thing, though: Deep red,
flavourful and structured, these reds are wonderful
with winter’s slow-cooked dishes.
orne by the prestige of the
Médoc’s grands crus classés,
Cabernet Sauvignon has
become the most-planted
red grape in the world –
just ahead of Merlot, though Merlot
dominates in the duo’s native Bordeaux.
And nothing beats the power of Cab for
establishing the reputation of a new wine
region. For instance, the 1976 Judgment
of Paris, the blind tasting that saw
California cuvées best their Bordeaux
counterparts, was the springboard that
propelled American wines onto the
global stage.
Cabernet Sauvignon, widely known
as the king of red grapes, is used in
many cult wines. But paradoxically,
much of its success derives from its
suitability as a component in the socalled Bordeaux blend. In Bordeaux
itself, these blends feature Cabernet
Sauvignon plus other grapes indigenous
to the region such as Merlot, Cabernet
Franc, Petit Verdot, Malbec and
B
22
February 2014
Carménère (the latter is rare in Bordeaux
but common in Chile). Bordeaux-style
blends produced elsewhere in the world
can also contain a touch of Syrah.
BEHIND THE LABEL
French wines labelled “Cabernet
Sauvignon” are 100-percent Cabs.
Technically, though, the basic regulations
in both France and Italy call for a
minimum of 85 percent for Cabernet
Sauvignons produced outside the AOC
and DOCG systems. In California, on
the other hand, a wine with 75-percent
Cabernet Sauvignon can be labelled
“Cabernet Sauvignon” – so essentially,
a California Cab might in fact be a
Bordeaux-style blend. This gives the
producer leeway to be creative.
Whatever the wine’s provenance, the
very fact of combining Cab with other
grape varieties yields more complexity
in the cuvée. In particular, Merlot’s fruity
exuberance brings a kinder, gentler side to
Cabernet’s sturdier, more tannic character.
FEBRUARY 6
CANADA
2016
MISSION HILL, CABERNET
SAUVIGNON RESERVE 2011,
OKANAGAN VALLEY
$25.80 11092051, 750 ML,
13.5% ABV
NUMBER OF CASES: 125
Leading Okanagan estate
Mission Hill sources this
traditional-style Cabernet
from the renowned local terroirs
of Oliver and Osoyoos.
GRAPE: CABERNET SAUVIGNON
AROMAS
BLACKCURRANT,
EUCALYPTUS, RED FRUIT,
GRAPHITE
ACIDITY – MODERATE
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
BODY – MEDIUM
MOUTH – GENEROUS
WOOD – EVIDENT
IN STORES
FEBRUARY 6 AND 20
Under the leadership
of scrupulous head
winemaker John Simes,
Mission Hill produces
well-defined wines.
Typical is this Cabernet,
a classic cool-climate
cuvée, expertly crafted
and balanced.
February 2014
23
CABERNET SAUVIGNON (CONTINUED)
SLOW-COOKED
CHICKEN
IN RED-WINE SAUCE
INGREDIENTS
1 kg (2 lbs) chicken legs, cut in two,
skin removed
15 mL (1 tbsp) vegetable oil
2
carrots, cut into small cubes
250 mL (1 cup) small onions
3
cloves garlic
500 mL (2 cups) robust red wine
Salt and freshly ground pepper,
to taste
2
sprigs thyme
2
sprigs rosemary
15 mL (1 tbsp) butter
250 mL (1 cup) mushrooms,
cut into quarters
250 g (1/2 lb) lardons
30 mL (2 tbsp) flour
45 mL (3 tbsp) cassis liqueur
24
February 2014
RECIPE AT SAQ.COM
DIRECTIONS 4 SERVINGS
Preparation: 20 minutes Cooking: 5 1/2 to 6 1/2 hours
STEP 1
In a skillet, heat the oil and brown the chicken on all sides. Remove from the skillet and reserve.
In the same skillet, gently brown the carrots, onions and garlic. Transfer the chicken and vegetables
to a slow cooker.
STEP 2
Discard the cooking oil from the skillet and pour in the wine. Bring to a boil and add to the slow
cooker. Season with salt and pepper, and cover. Cook on low for five to six hours. Add the thyme
and rosemary one hour before the end of cooking.
STEP 3
In a skillet, melt the butter and brown the mushrooms and lardoons. Drain and add to the slow
cooker. Dissolve the flour in the cassis liqueur and add to the slow cooker. Cover and finish cooking
on high for 10 to 15 minutes.
IN STORES
FEBRUARY 6 AND 20
Notes of blackcurrant
and rosemary are
typical of New World
Cabernet Sauvignons.
The rosemary and
cassis in our recipe
create a synergy with
Innisfree, a wine that
evokes dark fruit and
cedar, an element
similar to rosemary.
RECIPE PHOTO: DANA DOROBANTU, PHOTOGRAPHER; WILLIAM COLE, ASSISTANT. FOOD STYLIST: BLAKE MACKAY. ACCESSORIES STYLIST: CAROLINE SIMON.
– Sommelier
Kler-Yann Bouteiller
FEBRUARY 6
UNITED STATES
2021
JOSPEH PHELPS, INNISFREE
CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2009,
NAPA VALLEY
$29.95 11419616, 750 ML,
13.5% ABV
NUMBER OF CASES: 358
Phelps, a family estate and
benchmark Napa producer,
is widely admired. Its Cabernet
Sauvignon makes an intriguing
addition to the dinner table.
GRAPE: CABERNET SAUVIGNON
AROMAS
PLUM, LICORICE,
BLACKCURRANT, BLACK
CHERRY, WOOD
ACIDITY – MODERATE
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
BODY – FULL
MOUTH – GENEROUS
WOOD – PRONOUNCED
February 2014
25
Sangiovese still reigns
in Tuscany (Chianti,
Brunello di Montalcino),
but Bordeaux grapes such
as Cabernet Sauvignon
have greatly enhanced the
reputation of Tuscan wines.
The Cabernets from the
Bolgheri region near the
coast are full of finesse –
the fabled Sassicaia,
a blend of Cabernet
Sauvignon and Cabernet
Franc, being the prime
example.
FEBRUARY 6
OLD VERSUS NEW
Grown all over the world, Cabernet
Sauvignon yields wines of disparate styles
depending on the location: the grape’s
native Bordeaux or Europe, or hot, sunny
California, South America or Australia.
Climate is the main factor that
accounts for the difference between Old
and New World Cabs. Argentina’s dry
weather and California’s sunny autumns
allow for optimal “hang time,” meaning
the grapes can safely be left on the
vine until perfectly ripe – a luxury not
allowed producers in cooler climates
dominated by autumn rains and frosts.
In its homeland of Bordeaux, Cabernet
Sauvignon tends to be somewhat
restrained and to convey a more obvious
expression of terroir. In California
26
February 2014
and other New World regions, the
hotter, sunnier weather yields wines
of bursting fruitiness that can border
on impressions of blackberry and
blackcurrant jam.
Mind you, Europe’s hot weather
in recent years has blurred these
differences. So has the fact that many
New World producers have begun
trying to express more freshness in their
Cabs. In higher-volume productions,
the trend seems to be toward a specific
ideal: a style that’s midway between Old
World and New World. These wines,
sometimes at the expense of diversity,
offer an easily recognizable combination
of very ripe fruit, assertive tannins, and
toasted and oaky notes.
ITALY
2020
BANFI, ASKA 2010, BOLGHERI
$26.00 12108748, 750ML,
14% ABV
NUMBER OF CASES: 125
A small property of barely five
hectares – but planted with
Bordeaux grapes and run by
none other than Castello Banfi.
GRAPES: CABERNET SAUVIGNON,
CABERNET FRANC
AROMAS
RED-BERRY FRUIT, SPICES,
ROASTED NOTES, OAK
ACIDITY – MODERATE
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
BODY – FULL
MOUTH – GENEROUS
WOOD – EVIDENT
PHOTOS: UNIVERSAL IMAGES, GROUP LIMITED/ALAMY (TABLE); THOMAS GOISQUE/FIGAROPHOTO (CHÂTEAU);
IRALU/SHUTTERSTOCK (ILLUSTRATION WINE PRODUCER AND LANDSCAPE); AMIEL/PHOTOCUISINE (GLASS OF WINE).
Cabernet Sauvignon
THE CAB CHRONICLES
The red grape that’s conquered the planet isn’t always what it seems to be.
CHINESE CHÂTEAU
China’s meteoric growth is one of the
reasons why Cabernet plantings have
narrowly overtaken Merlot plantings
worldwide. Beguiled by the cachet of
Lafite, Mouton and the like, Changyu,
the country’s largest winery, built
itself a Bordeaux-style château just
outside Beijing.
LAGS AT HOME
Despite its global prestige, in its
homeland of Bordeaux, Cabernet is
far less planted than Merlot (27,000
versus 69,000 hectares, respectively).
It is in Chile and the United States that
Cab vines dominate.
TOUGH EXTERIOR
Cab Sauv may not ripen
as easily as Cabernet
Franc or Merlot, but it
has the advantage
of possessing a thick
skin, which helps ward
off disease and gives
the wine tannins
and structure.
GOD’S GRAPE?
WOODEN EXPRESSION
“God made Cabernet Sauvignon,
whereas the devil made Pinot
Noir.” So said the late, great André
Tchelistcheff, considered the father
of modern California winemaking,
because Pinot gave him so much
more grief than Cab.
Cabernet Sauvignon and oak barrels
go together like bread and butter.
The illustrious Jancis Robinson
has observed that Cab has such an
affinity for oak that it can be difficult
to distinguish fruit from wood in the
young wines.
February 2014
27
The family behind Cidrerie
St-Nicolas likes to pair this ice
cider with foie gras and fruit
desserts. One of their flagship
products, it’s also divine with
cheese dishes – for example,
cheese fondue combining
Quebec cheese and ice cider,
or crepes stuffed with goat
cheese and peach jam. Recipes
for both are at SAQ.com.
Patricia Daignault with her
children (from left) Pierre, 23,
Louise, 27, and Marie-Françoise,
30. The latter has a business
administration degree and
handles human resources and
accounting, while Louise is
sales manager and Pierre
assists his father (not pictured)
with agricultural management.
Quebec Terroir
Cidrerie St-Nicolas is a small and successful family
business that focuses on quality, not quantity.
T
wenty kilometres west of Quebec City, a spit of land juts from the
south shore of the Saint Lawrence. A very snowy, bitterly cold and
relentlessly windy area, it’s where Pierre Lafond and Patricia Daignault
purchased the orchard of their dreams 35 years ago. The land was part
of an old apple-growing property that had been abandoned since the
1940s. Lafond, a forestry engineer with a degree from Yale, saw more than a forest
sprinkled with apple trees. “It had all the right conditions for producing cider, and
my husband dreamed of doing that,” recalls Daignault. Today, their 15-hectare
orchard has 6,000 apple trees. With their three adult offspring working alongside
them in the business, Lafond and Daignault are forward-thinking but do not have
that expand-at-any-cost attitude. “We avoid taking any big steps that could trip us
up,” admits Lafond, who got his first order (for 200 cases) scarcely 15 years ago.
But that level-headed approach doesn’t mean he can’t dream!
For information on Quebec alcohol producers, go to alcoolsduterroir.com
(in French only).
28
February 2014
ST-NICOLAS, ICE CIDER
$26.55 00871939, 375 ML,
9% ABV
Occupying an enchanting site that’s
open to the public year-round,
Cidrerie St-Nicolas was the first
producer to make ice cider from
apples left to freeze on the tree.
APPLES: CORTLAND, McINTOSH,
HONEYCRISP
PAIRINGS: APPLE CRISP, VERRINE
OF MASCARPONE AND CARAMELIZED
WHITE-FLESHED FRUIT
AROMAS
FLOWERS, GOLDEN APPLE,
HONEYDEW, PEAR
ACIDITY – LIVELY
SUGAR LEVEL – SWEET
BODY – MEDIUM
PALATE – RICH
WOOD – UNOAKED
Limited quantities. Vintages may vary from store to store.
PHOTO: MAUDE CHAUVIN.
THE APPLE OF THEIR EYE
CANADA
FEBRUARY 6
WS 90
WS 91
P. 21
CHILE
FRANCE
CONCHA Y TORO, MARQUES
DE CASA CONCHA CHARDONNAY
2011, VALLE DEL LIMARÍ
$20.00 11416141, 750 ML,
14% ABV
NUMBER OF CASES: 125
From a major Chilean producer,
a Chardonnay with fruity
and grilled notes, plus wood
that is complementary rather
than excessive.
PAIRINGS: GRILLED-SALMON
PASTA, BAKED BRIE WITH PEARS
AND ALMONDS
GRAPE: CHARDONNAY
BD 16.5
WS 91
2018
FRANCE
WS 91
2017
FRANCE
WA 92
2018
2017
DOMAINE JAUME,
RÉFÉRENCE 2010, VINSOBRES
COULY-DUTHEIL PÈRE ET FILS,
CLOS DE L’ÉCHO 2010, CHINON
$20.95 12125652, 750 ML,
14% ABV
$26.40 00710418, 750 ML,
14% ABV
$27.95 11600618, 750 ML,
14.5% ABV
$21.50 11191447, 750 ML,
13.5% ABV
NUMBER OF CASES: 150
NUMBER OF CASES: 124
NUMBER OF CASES: 150
NUMBER OF CASES: 225
Careful grape selection,
harvesting by hand and sorting
in the vineyard: the perfect
formula for this cuvée by
Richard and Pascal Jaume.
Clos de l’Écho owes its name
to the echo effect at the
magnificent walls of Château
de Chinon.
Produced by the Thienpont
family, also the proprietors
of Château Pavie-Macquin,
this Côtes de Francs lives up
to its vintage.
A Sangiovese accented with
a touch of Bordeaux, from the
Maremma terroir, a new player
in the fabled region of Tuscany.
PAIRINGS: PHEASANT TERRINE,
GUINEA FOWL WITH TAPENADE
PAIRINGS: RABBIT WITH
MUSTARD SAUCE, CHARCUTERIES
CHÂTEAU PUYGUERAUD 2010,
CÔTES DE FRANCS
ITALY
FATTORIA DI MAGLIANO, SINARRA
2010, MAREMMA TOSCANA
PAIRING: ROAST BEEF AU JUS
PAIRINGS: DUCK CONFIT,
MUSHROOM-PARMIGIANO CANAPÉS
GRAPE: CABERNET FRANC
GRAPES: MERLOT,
CABERNET FRANC
GRAPES: SANGIOVESE,
PETIT VERDOT
GRAPES: SYRAH, GRENACHE,
MOURVÈDRE
AROMAS
PINEAPPLE, TOASTED
ALMONDS, WHITE FRUIT
ACIDITY – LIVELY
AROMAS
CHERRY, SPICES, RAW
MEAT, DARK FRUIT
ACIDITY – MODERATE
AROMAS
RASPBERRY, UNDERBRUSH,
LICORICE, COFFEE,
DAMP EARTH
ACIDITY – MODERATE
AROMAS
BLUEBERRY, BLACKCURRANT,
MENTHOL, WOOD,
UNDERBRUSH
ACIDITY – MODERATE
AROMAS
VANILLA, BLACK OLIVE,
DARK FRUIT, DAMP EARTH
ACIDITY – MODERATE
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
BODY – MEDIUM
BODY – FULL
BODY – MEDIUM
BODY – FULL
BODY – MEDIUM
MOUTH – RICH
MOUTH – STRUCTURED
MOUTH – GENEROUS
MOUTH – STRUCTURED
MOUTH – STRUCTURED
WOOD – EVIDENT
WOOD – EVIDENT
WOOD – EVIDENT
WOOD – EVIDENT
WOOD – EVIDENT
February 2014
29
FEBRUARY 6
JR 15.5
P. 23
CANADA
2016
MISSION HILL, CABERNET
SAUVIGNON RESERVE 2011,
OKANAGAN VALLEY
P. 25
UNITED STATES
2021
JOSPEH PHELPS, INNISFREE
CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2009,
NAPA VALLEY
P. 26
ITALY
2020
BANFI, ASKA 2010, BOLGHERI
$26.00 12108748, 750ML,
14% ABV
AUSTRALIA
2016
D’ARENBERG, THE HIGH TRELLIS
CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2009,
McLAREN VALE
CONO SUR, BLOCK Nº 18
EL RECURSO CABERNET
SAUVIGNON 2011, VALLE
DEL MAIPO
$25.80 11092051, 750 ML,
13.5% ABV
$29.95 11419616, 750 ML,
13.5% ABV
NUMBER OF CASES: 125
NUMBER OF CASES: 358
Leading Okanagan estate
Mission Hill sources this
traditional-style Cabernet
from the renowned local terroirs
of Oliver and Osoyoos.
Phelps, a family estate and
benchmark Napa producer,
is widely admired. Its Cabernet
Sauvignon makes an intriguing
addition to the dinner table.
PAIRING: DUCK BREAST WITH
BERRY SAUCE
PAIRING: ENTRECÔTE WITH
MUSHROOM SAUCE
GRAPE: CABERNET SAUVIGNON
GRAPE: CABERNET SAUVIGNON
AROMAS
BLACKCURRANT,
EUCALYPTUS, RED FRUIT,
GRAPHITE
ACIDITY – MODERATE
AROMAS
PLUM, LICORICE,
BLACKCURRANT, BLACK
CHERRY, WOOD
ACIDITY – MODERATE
AROMAS
RED-BERRY FRUIT, SPICES,
ROASTED NOTES, OAK
ACIDITY – MODERATE
AROMAS
BLACKCURRANT JAM,
PEACH, APPLESAUCE,
CAMPHOR
ACIDITY – MODERATE
AROMAS
BELL PEPPER, DARK FRUIT,
MENTHOL, DAMP EARTH
ACIDITY – MODERATE
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
BODY – MEDIUM
BODY – FULL
BODY – FULL
BODY – FULL
BODY – MEDIUM
MOUTH – GENEROUS
MOUTH – GENEROUS
MOUTH – GENEROUS
MOUTH – GENEROUS
MOUTH – GENEROUS
WOOD – EVIDENT
WOOD – PRONOUNCED
WOOD – EVIDENT
WOOD – EVIDENT
WOOD – EVIDENT
30
February 2014
NUMBER OF CASES: 125
A small property of barely five
hectares – but planted with
Bordeaux grapes and run by
none other than Castello Banfi.
PAIRING: BEEF STEW WITH
TOMATOES AND MUSHROOMS
GRAPES: CABERNET SAUVIGNON,
CABERNET FRANC
$21.40 10968146, 750 ML,
14.5% ABV
CHILE
NUMBER OF CASES: 158
$20.20 00904516, 750 ML,
14% ABV
A very popular wine in Quebec.
Critic James Halliday, who
specializes in Australian
wines, has called it “seriously
good value.”
NUMBER OF CASES: 125
A model of sustainable
development, Cono Sur grows
its vines at altitude, resulting
in a fresh and elegant wine.
PAIRING: PORK TENDERLOIN
WITH CRANBERRY JELLY
PAIRING: LAMB EMPANADAS
GRAPE: CABERNET SAUVIGNON
GRAPE: CABERNET SAUVIGNON
ICON LEGEND
WHITE WINE
RED WINE
Favourite
drink now through
the year indicated
drink now
hold until
the year indicated
The potential longevity of a wine when stored in the proper conditions. Note that this is simply
a guideline, with the exceptions – and they are numerous! – proving the rule.
WINE PROFILE CHART
SOURCES CITED:
BD : JR : WA : WS : Bettane et Desseauve (out of 20)
Jancis Robinson (out of 20)
Wine Advocate, Robert Parker (out of 100)
Wine Spectator (out of 100)
Presence and intensity
of acidity, body, wood and other elements at
the time of tasting.
FEBRUARY 6
JR 16
CHILE
2018
SPAIN
2019
FRANCE
JR 16
2018
2020
2018
SEÑORÍO DE OTAZU 2006,
VINO DE PAGO
$25.50 10767053, 750 ML,
14% ABV
NUMBER OF CASES: 149 (6 BOTTLES)
$25.00 12116246, 750 ML,
13.5% ABV
$28.85 00737924, 750 ML,
13.5% ABV
$29.80 12116385, 750 ML,
14% ABV
A Spanish wine from Navarre,
where the Atlantic climate
is beneficial for the grapes.
Impeccable balance and good
complexity.
NUMBER OF CASES: 125
NUMBER OF CASES: 124
NUMBER OF CASES: 125
Situated at the edge of the
Saint-Julien AOC, this Bordeaux
château has no cause to envy
other crus in the same category.
A traditional-style Bordeaux
from the excellent 2010 vintage,
for under $30. You’ll want to
stock up on it.
PAIRING: BEEF TARTARE
PAIRING: ENTRECÔTE BORDELAISE
The Château Chasse-Spleen
second wine is a product of the
property’s youngest vines. An
elegant, complex and instantly
beguiling Bordeaux.
GRAPES: CABERNET SAUVIGNON,
TEMPRANILLO
GRAPES: CABERNET SAUVIGNON,
MERLOT, CABERNET FRANC
AROMAS
BLUEBERRY, BLACKCURRANT,
EUCALYPTUS, GRAPHITE
ACIDITY – MODERATE
AROMAS
DARK FRUIT, ESPELETTE
PEPPER, FLOWERS,
SPICES, OAK
ACIDITY – MODERATE
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
NUMBER OF CASES: 150
Drawn from vines that are
nearly 100 years old, this
cuvée by the well-regarded
Casa Lapostolle is matured
for 13 months in oak barrels.
CHÂTEAU CHASSE-SPLEEN,
L’ORATOIRE DE CHASSE-SPLEEN
2010, MOULIS
FRANCE
CASA LAPOSTOLLE, CUVÉE
ALEXANDRE CABERNET
SAUVIGNON 2012, VALLE DE
COLCHAGUA
$29.85 12127181, 750 ML,
14% ABV
FRANÇOISE ET JEAN-LOUIS
TRIAUD, CHÂTEAU BEL AIR 2009,
HAUT-MÉDOC CRU BOURGEOIS
FRANCE
CHÂTEAU LAROSE PERGANSON
2010, HAUT-MÉDOC CRU
BOURGEOIS
PAIRING: STEAK AND FRIES
PAIRING: FLANK STEAK WITH
RED-WINE-AND-SHALLOT SAUCE
GRAPES: CABERNET SAUVIGNON,
MERLOT, PETIT VERDOT
GRAPES: CABERNET SAUVIGNON,
MERLOT
AROMAS
RIPE DARK FRUIT,
GRAPHITE, COFFEE, SPICES
ACIDITY – MODERATE
AROMAS
BLACKCURRANT, DRIED
FRUIT, BARLEY SUGAR,
PEONY, ANISE
ACIDITY – MODERATE
AROMAS
RIPE FRUIT, EUCALYPTUS,
TOBACCO
ACIDITY – MODERATE
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
BODY – FULL
BODY – MEDIUM
BODY – MEDIUM
BODY – MEDIUM
BODY – MEDIUM
MOUTH – STRUCTURED
MOUTH – GENEROUS
MOUTH – GENEROUS
MOUTH – GENEROUS
MOUTH – GENEROUS
WOOD – EVIDENT
WOOD – EVIDENT
WOOD – EVIDENT
WOOD – EVIDENT
WOOD – EVIDENT
PAIRINGS: MINT RACK OF LAMB,
VEAL CHOPS WITH PORT SAUCE
GRAPE: CABERNET SAUVIGNON
February 2014
31
Products are available in limited quantities. No layaways
are permitted until the Monday following the release of
the products. Prices are subject to change without notice.
FEBRUARY 20
P. 11
ARGENTINA
ARGENTINA
ARGENTINA
$21.95 12088513, 750 ML,
14.5% ABV
$24.10 12088530, 750 ML,
13.4% ABV
$21.25 12068379, 750 ML,
14.5% ABV
NUMBER OF CASES: 125
NUMBER OF CASES: 150 (6 BOTTLES)
NUMBER OF CASES: 150
An exceptional Chardonnay from
an Argentinian winery operated
by the proprietors of prestige
Bordeaux estates.
Owned by the Arizu family,
this winery acquired a solid
reputation early on and garners
high marks from wine critics.
NUMBER OF CASES: 150
PAIRING: SCALLOPS WITH
LEMON-CREAM SAUCE
PAIRINGS: SALMON OR TROUT
WITH LEMON BUTTER
Altos Las Hormigas is so named
because ants – hormigas in
Spanish – once overran the
vines. They were encouraged
to move on via natural means,
without pesticide use.
GRAPE: CHARDONNAY
GRAPES: VIOGNIER,
CHARDONNAY, RIESLING
PAIRINGS: SPICY MERGUEZ-STYLE
SAUSAGES, EUROPEAN HOT DOGS
GRAPES: MALBEC, SYRAH,
MERLOT
DIAMANDES, CHARDONNAY
2012, VALLE DE UCO
LUIGI BOSCA, GALA 3 2010,
MENDOZA
2016
ALTOS LAS HORMIGAS, MALBEC
TERROIR 2010, VALLE DE UCO
P. 10
ARGENTINA
2019
MONTEVIEJO, LINDAFLOR
PETITE FLEUR 2010,
VALLE DE UCO
$25.40 12088273, 750 ML,
14.5% ABV
A charming blend by one of a
group of seven distinguished
French winemakers based
in Argentina.
PAIRING: BRAISED LAMB
GRAPE: MALBEC
P. 8
ARGENTINA
2017
DURIGUTTI, CABERNET
SAUVIGNON 2011, MENDOZA
$19.55 12088492, 750 ML,
13.4%, ABV
NUMBER OF CASES: 149
With its toasty profile, a Cab
Sauv for fans of modern wines.
A robust affair that calls for
equally strong food flavours.
PAIRINGS: BRAISED BEEF AND
VEGETABLES, PORK LOIN WITH
THYME AND BLACKCURRANT
GRAPES: CABERNET SAUVIGNON,
CABERNET FRANC, PETIT VERDOT
AROMAS
APRICOT, PEACH,
PEAR, NUTMEG
ACIDITY – MODERATE
AROMAS
BUTTER, VANILLA, CITRUS,
APPLE, CRÈME CARAMEL
ACIDITY – MODERATE
AROMAS
RED FRUIT, OAK,
PLUM, VIOLETS
ACIDITY – MODERATE
AROMAS
PLUM, VIOLETS,
PEPPER, OAK
ACIDITY – MODERATE
AROMAS
BLACKCURRANT, BARLEY
SUGAR, COFFEE,
LICORICE, SMOKE
ACIDITY – MODERATE
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
BODY – MEDIUM
BODY – FULL
BODY – MEDIUM
BODY – FULL
BODY – FULL
MOUTH – GENEROUS
MOUTH – RICH
MOUTH – GENEROUS
MOUTH – STRUCTURED
MOUTH – GENEROUS
WOOD – EVIDENT
WOOD – PRONOUNCED
WOOD – EVIDENT
WOOD – EVIDENT
WOOD – EVIDENT
32
February 2014
MICHEL
MARTIN
FRANÇOIS
BEAUREGARD
CATHERINE
OUIMET
These wine advisors were
on the tasting committee
and helped select the
Cellier favourites.
FEBRUARY 20
wine advisor
Saint-Jacques SAQ Sélection
WS 92
ARGENTINA
2018
ARGENTINA
2017
NOEMÍA DE PATAGONIA, A LISA
MALBEC 2011, PATAGONIA
PULENTA, X GRAN MALBEC 2010,
MENDOZA
$22.95 11517460, 750 ML,
14% ABV
$35.50 12070954, 750 ML,
14.5% ABV
NUMBER OF CASES: 125
NUMBER OF CASES: 125 (6 BOTTLES)
From Danish winemaker Hans
Vinding-Diers in partnership
with Countess Noemi Marone
Cinzano, owner of the Italian
winery Argiano.
Pulenta is a multi‑generational
family estate dedicated to
producing quality wines, among
them this high-end cuvée.
PAIRING: PORK TENDERLOIN
WITH PRUNES
GRAPE: MALBEC
PAIRING: GRILLED VENISON STEAK
PHOTOS: JEAN TREMBLAY (COMMITTEE).
GRAPE: MALBEC
P. 15
GERMANY
wine advisor
Radisson SAQ Sélection
WA 94
2017
ROBERT EYMAEL, MÖNCHHOF
SLATE RIESLING SPÄTLESE
QMP 2011, MOSEL-SAAR-RUWER
P. 15
SPAIN
wine advisor
Marché 440 SAQ Classique
JR 16.5
WS 92
2021
P. 17
PORTUGAL
2016
TESO LA MONJA,
ALMIREZ 2011, TORO
NIEPOORT, VERTENTE 2009,
DOURO
$28.50 12120691, 750 ML,
14.5% ABV
$24.85 10371665, 750 ML,
13.5% ABV
NUMBER OF CASES: 200 (6 BOTTLES)
NUMBER OF CASES: 300 (6 BOTTLES)
Praised by Robert Parker,
Almirez gets appealing
freshness from its highelevation terroir and richness
from its barrel aging.
A grape blend normally
used for ports, here results
in an impressive dry wine.
Outstanding value.
PAIRINGS: FOIE GRAS
APPETIZERS, BRIE-STYLE CHEESES
PAIRINGS: ROSEMARY LEG OF LAMB
ON LENTILS, BEEF TOURNEDOS
WITH RED-WINE SAUCE
GRAPES: TOURIGA FRANCA,
TINTA RORIZ
GRAPE: RIESLING
GRAPE: TEMPRANILLO
$26.40 11399643, 750 ML,
8.5% ABV
NUMBER OF CASES: 125
“Versatile” is the perfect word
for this wine, which can be
enjoyed either as an aperitif or
at meal’s end. Easy-drinking
and subtly sweet.
PAIRING: BEEF WITH STAR ANISE
AROMAS
RASPBERRY, BLACKCURRANT,
BLACKBERRY, FLOWERS, OAK
ACIDITY – MODERATE
AROMAS
BLACKCURRANT, SMOKE,
VANILLA, SPICES
ACIDITY – DISCREET
AROMAS
PEACH, PEAR,
HYDROCARBONS,
MINERALITY
ACIDITY – MODERATE
AROMAS
BLACKCURRANT, GROUND
CHERRY, BARLEY SUGAR,
VANILLA, MOLASSES
ACIDITY – MODERATE
AROMAS
DRIED FRUIT (DATES,
PLUMS, RAISINS)
ACIDITY – MODERATE
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
SUGAR LEVEL – OFF DRY
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
BODY – FULL
BODY – FULL
BODY – MEDIUM
BODY – FULL
BODY – MEDIUM
MOUTH – GENEROUS
MOUTH – GENEROUS
MOUTH – DELICATE
MOUTH – STRUCTURED
MOUTH – GENEROUS
WOOD – EVIDENT
WOOD – PRONOUNCED
WOOD – UNOAKED
WOOD – PRONOUNCED
WOOD – EVIDENT
February 2014
33
Erratum
In the November 2013 issue of Cellier, erroneous
information was inadvertently included in the description
of Fratelli Alessandria’s 2010 Priòra. In fact, the winery
has been owned by the Alessandria family since 1870.
FEBRUARY 20
JR 17.5
WS 95
WA 92
2017
AUSTRALIA
CHILE
JR 16
WS 92
2017
M. CHAPOUTIER, TOURNON
SHAYS FLAT VINEYARD 2011,
VICTORIA
VIÑA TABALÍ, RESERVA
ESPECIAL 2009,
VALLE DEL LIMARÍ
$32.00 12124596, 750 ML,
14% ABV
$23.95 12134233, 750 ML,
14% ABV
NUMBER OF CASES: 125 (6 BOTTLES)
NUMBER OF CASES: 125
The quality of Chapoutier’s
Australian wines never ceases
to amaze. Scored 95 (WS)
points, this Shiraz conveys
a suggestion of Rhône-style
elegance.
The Limarí Valley, a new terroir
for Syrah, possesses a Pacific
climate that delivers welcome
freshness to the wine.
PAIRING: VENISON STEAK IN
PEPPERCORN SAUCE
GRAPES: SYRAH, MERLOT
PAIRINGS: PIRI PIRI CHICKEN,
LAMB TAJINE
P. 18
FRANCE
JR 15.5
WA 93
2017
FAMILLE PERRIN,
L’ANDÉOL 2010, RASTEAU
ITALY
2017
DUCA DI CASTELMONTE,
TRIPUDIUM 2009, SICILIA
AUSTRALIA
2019
YANGARRA ESTATE, SHIRAZ
2010, McLAREN-VALE
$19.45 10678149, 750 ML,
13.5% ABV
$24.60 12114654, 750 ML,
14% ABV
$29.95 12125679, 750 ML,
14.5% ABV
NUMBER OF CASES: 125
NUMBER OF CASES: 125 (6 BOTTLES)
NUMBER OF CASES: 150 (6 BOTTLES)
Tiny production from a twohectare vineyard site. Matured
mainly in stainless steel,
so showing great fruit purity.
Created by renowned Sicilian
winemaker Carlo Pellegrino,
this sublime cuvée made it
into the Gambero Rosso
rankings for the 2009 vintage.
Syrah (Shiraz) thrives in the
McLaren Vale terroir. Made
from organic grapes, this cuvée
is aged for 12 to 14 months
in oak barrels.
PAIRINGS: OSSO BUCCO,
VEAL PARMIGIANA
PAIRINGS: SPARERIBS, VENISON
STEAK WITH BLUEBERRY SAUCE
GRAPES: NERO D’AVOLA,
CABERNET SAUVIGNON, SYRAH
GRAPE: SHIRAZ
PAIRING: ASIAN-SPICED BEEF
GRAPES: GRENACHE, SYRAH
GRAPE: SHIRAZ
AROMAS
PEPPER, VIOLETS,
RED FRUIT, OAK
ACIDITY – MODERATE
AROMAS
BLACK CHERRY, OLIVE,
EUCALYPTUS, COFFEE,
SPICES, FLOWERS, OAK
ACIDITY – MODERATE
AROMAS
PEPPER, CHERRY, SWEET
SPICES, CINNAMON
ACIDITY – MODERATE
AROMAS
DARK FRUIT, KIRSCH
CHERRY, LICORICE,
WILD STRAWBERRY
ACIDITY – MODERATE
AROMAS
BLACKCURRANT, BLACK
CHERRY, PEPPER, SMOKE,
CHOCOLATE, MINT, OAK
ACIDITY – MODERATE
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
BODY – FULL
BODY – FULL
BODY – MEDIUM
BODY – FULL
BODY – FULL
MOUTH – GENEROUS
MOUTH – GENEROUS
MOUTH – GENEROUS
MOUTH – GENEROUS
MOUTH – GENEROUS
WOOD – EVIDENT
WOOD – PRONOUNCED
WOOD – SUBTLE
WOOD – SUBTLE
WOOD – PRONOUNCED
34
February 2014
RENDEZ-VOUS DU CINÉMA QUÉBÉCOIS – February 20 to March 1, 2014
MONTRÉAL EN LUMIÈRE – February 20 to March 2, 2014
saq.com/saqcelebrations
– Crédits photos : Marc Gaillet. Tous droits réservés – 06/2013
*
CÔTES DU ROUSSILLON
CÔTES DU ROUSSILLON VILLAGES
COLLIOURE
CÔTES CATALANES
CÔTE VERMEILLE
MUSCAT DE RIVESALTES
RIVESALTES
MAURY
BANYULS
* INFINITELY ROUSSILLON
vinsduroussillon.com
CAMPAIGN COFINANCED
BY THE EUROPEAN UNION