Salzburg - Salzkammergut

Transcription

INSIDER’S GUIDE
When in ...
Salzburg
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www.theaddressmagazine.com
Photo: Tourismus Salzburg GmbH
Claudia Juestel
An elegant, cosmopolitan Alpine city with medieval architecture, baroque churches and a fairytale castle, Salzburg is one of the most beautiful
towns in the Alps. The city is not only famous
for its awe-inspiring architecture, but also as the
birthplace of the composer Mozart and as being
the setting for the musical ‘The Sound of Music’.
Grandeur notwithstanding, the city has become
increasingly avant-garde with modern art installations and cutting-edge cultural events. Salzburg
is not to be missed by anyone visiting Europe and
Austria in particular.
We asked Claudia Juestel, originally from Salzburg
and founder of Adeeni Design Group, to share
some of her favourites.
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Restaurant Ikarus
Hotel Sacher Salzburg
Salzburg lies on the northern edge of the Alps
and is set against snowcapped mountains to
the south and west, and tree-topped rolling
green hills to the north and east. In every
direction, beautiful nature envelopes this
magical place. Right in the middle of town,
you can experience what the glaciers left
behind millions of years ago – the Salzach
River, which cuts through its centre, flanked
by the Festungsberg, the Mönchsberg and
Kapuzinerberg mountains. Charming medieval
and baroque houses are built right against
their cliffs. The Mönchsberg and Festungsberg
are the more visited of the three, with the
fortress perched on the highest crest of the
latter, presenting an unparalleled panorama of Salzburg and its surroundings. The
Mönchsberg stretches along the left bank of
the Salzach and presents a few interesting
sights, including, along its base, the catacombs,
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the Neutor – a tunnel with a baroque portal
connecting the old town to its western districts
– and on its plateau, a number of small castles,
the Museum der Moderne, and other lookout
points and small forests and meadows, perfect
for a leisurely stroll away from the hustle and
bustle of the popular downtown. Right across
the river, the Kapuzinerberg, named after its
Capuchins cloister, offers even more quietude
on its steep walking path called the Bastaiweg.
Hike along the historic fortifications and
city walls up to the Franziskischlössl, a small
baroque castle on the top, that offers not only
amazing views, but also great Austrian food
and drink. The Kapuzinerberg is abundant with
nature. Its forest provides not only Salzburg’s
“green lungs”, it also is the home of rare
alpine plants and a number of native animals,
including deer, chamois and ravens. So don’t
miss this bounty of nature during your visit.
Where to stay
Best Luxury
Conveniently located on the right bank of the
Salzach River in the centre of Salzburg, many of
its rooms have the most picturesque views of
the old town, the fortress and the mountains
beyond. The hotel was completed in 1866
by Carl Freiherr von Schwarz, an aristocratic
builder and city planner, and named Hotel
Österreichischer Hof (Hotel Austrian Court).
During the occupation from 1945 to 1955,
it served as the home of American officers
stationed in Salzburg. In 1988, the Gürtler
family, owners of the Hotel Sacher in Vienna,
purchased the hotel and renamed it the Hotel
Sacher Salzburg in the year 2000. Since its
opening almost 150 years ago, it has welcomed
some of the most famous and prominent
heads of state and cultural icons from around
the world. Among them were Richard Strauss,
Queen Beatrix of the Netherlands, the Aga
Kahn, the Dalai Lama, Julie Andrews and
Placido Domingo. The hotel is still popular
today, with influential patrons who are looking
for old-fashioned and discreet service in a
formal and traditional atmosphere. Even Fido
is welcome! Every one of the 113 rooms and
suites has a different décor comprised of silklined walls, beautiful carpets, antiques and
original works of art, combined with modern
technology and conveniences. The hotel offers
a number of restaurants, a bar and a traditional
Austrian café with an extensive selection of
pastries. And you do not have to travel to
Vienna to taste the original Sacher Torte.
www.sacher.com
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Best Value
Hotel & Villa Auersperg
Enjoy the intimacy of a historic
Neo-Renaissance villa built in 1892,
surrounded by gardens, right in the historic
centre of town. Rooms are decorated with
a mix of modern and classical furnishings.
The generous breakfast buffet, which can be
enjoyed on the terrace during warm weather,
is a must. This small hotel also has a rooftop
spa with a sun terrace, and offers massages,
meditation, yoga, sauna and steam room.
www.auersperg.at
Where to eat
Best Breakfast
Café Sacher
Do not miss the old-fashioned selection
and ambience of the Café Sacher, whose
traditional interior with parquet floors,
raspberry-red damask-covered walls loaded
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with historical photos, and old-fashioned
furnishings are reminiscent of childhood
visits to Viennese coffee houses. Choose
from an à la carte menu of typical Austrian
breakfast fare, including eggs prepared in
several ways, cold cuts and cheeses, a variety
of jams, accompanied by a selection of
breads, and your choice of tea or Sacher’s own
coffee blend. You may want to finish off your
morning with something sweet from their
extensive patisserie.
www.sacher.com
Triangel
Only a stone’s throw from the festival house,
this informal restaurant has naturally long
been a favourite of music lovers. This is where
the city’s natives rub shoulders with visiting
musicians for simple but delicious ecologically
conscious Austrian fare at reasonable prices,
which can also be savoured outside during
warm weather. How about a venison platter
and cheese dumplings with stewed fruits?
www.triangel-salzburg.co.at
Best Brunch
Itzlinger Hof
One Sunday a month, the Itzlinger Hof serves
up a jazz brunch, where guests feast on a
generous buffet while listening to live jazz
provided by local bands. Salzburg may be
more known for classical music, but it has a
long history as a town in love with jazz, so this
is a popular way to start a Sunday.
www.itzlinger-hof.at
Best Lunch
Carpe Diem
Best Splurge-worthy Dinner
Restaurant Ikarus
Dietrich Mateschitz, founder of Red Bull, is
known to have many passions. At Hangar 7, a
modern aircraft hangar at the Salzburg Airport,
he combined three of them, namely sports,
art and food. The glass-covered structure is a
marvel in engineering, having kept the steel
supports as slim as possible for ultimate trans-
parency and appearance of weightlessness. The
light-filled building includes a large gallery that
showcases the company’s collection of planes
and sports cars. It hosts regular exhibitions by
artists from around the world, two bars and a
gourmet restaurant called Ikarus. Its success
has been built on an international culinary
tour where each month a different awardwinning guest chef brings his or her unique
style to Salzburg. Among them have been
Jean-Georges Vongerichten, Rasmus Kofeod,
Daniel Patterson, Pascal Barbot, Tanja Grandits,
and Ryan Clift. Ikarus has been a huge treat for
the sometimes more conservative residents
of Salzburg, introducing them to the unique
culinary expressions these chefs bring from their
own cultures.
www.hangar-7.com
Best Gourmet Dinner with Atmosphere
Brunnauer im Magazin
Given the central location of Mönchsberg
Mountain, builders took advantage of every
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Brunnauer im Magazin
inch when planning homes. They often affixed
the structures to its tall cliffs, with some
of them also having caves carved into the
conglomerate stone, which were ideal for
storage with their constant temperature, as
well as shelters during wartime.
Restaurateurs Claudia and Raimund
Katterbauer purchased a traditional residence
close to the Mönchsberg and connected it
to the mountain with modern architecture,
offering a variety of dining experiences in the
sheltered courtyard, on a viewing terrace, in
a private glass-enclosed floating room and
inside a cave.
At the helm in the kitchen, award-winning
chef Richard Brunnauer wields his knives and
spoons, creating modern dishes that blend
international flavours with Austrian traditions. To learn how it is done, guests may sign
up for Magazin’s cooking classes, available
throughout the year. The restaurant also
boasts a gourmet shop that carries everything
from cheeses, charcuterie, condiments, spices,
coffee, tea and a large selection of wines,
to modern home accessories from around
Europe. Magazin was created as a lifestyle
concept, which the owners have expanded
into another more informal and less expensive
location at the Europark shopping mall.
www.magazin.co.at
Best Authentic Austrian ‘Wirtshaus’
Wilder Mann
“Wirtshaus” (innkeeper’s house) or “Gasthaus”
(guest house) are terms for a casual tavern
that serves rustic local food paired with hearty
libations. The Wilder Mann (wild man) is hidden
away in a small passageway off Salzburg’s most
important shopping street, the Getreidegasse.
The building is almost 800 years old, but the
tavern was first recorded in 1884. Hence the
dark and cosy interior shows its medieval
origins and alpine location, with 2-foot-thick
white stucco walls decorated with antlers,
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rich beamed wood ceilings and checked
curtains. Dishes are authentically Austrian,
with standards such as goulash, roast pork
with bread dumpling and cabbage salad, and
smoked pork with potatoes and sauerkraut.
Beverages that go well with such hearty fare
are Almdudler, a tasty Alpine soda with herbs,
and Most, a fermented apple cider. To digest all
this richness, finish off the meal with a glass of
Schnaps, an eau de vie made from a variety of
fruits.
www.wildermann.co.at
Best Fast Food
Cafés
Vienna became the centre of coffee culture
after the Turkish army was defeated during the
17th century and left behind valuable trunks of
coffee beans outside its city walls. But Salzburg
has a well-established café society, too. Guests
often stay for hours, enjoying coffee and
pastries or a glass of wine and small bites, while
catching up on local news and international
gossip and fashion from the newspapers and
magazines offered to guests. Cafés are still the
social centre, and to mention only one would
be an injustice.
Best Café for Old-fashioned Atmosphere
Café Tomaselli
One of Salzburg’s most famous and oldest
cafés, the Café Tomaselli was founded in 1705
and since then has been frequented by many
famous literary figures, intellectuals, musicians
and composers, including Wolfgang Amadeus
Mozart. Today, the place retains its traditional
look and caters to everyone from locals of all
ages, to tourists from all over the world. Thanks
to its prime location in the heart of town and
two terraces that allow visitors to take in the
daily happenings around the squares and streets
Bosna and Leberkäse
There are two things I cannot live without
when I return to Salzburg. One is Bosna;
the other is Leberkäse. Bosna originated in
Salzburg, and although there have been many
copies, there is only one location that serves
the real deal. It is at the Balkan Grill, a tiny spot
located inside the first passageway between
the Getreidegasse and Karajan Square. I am
talking about the most delicious grilled pork
sausage, sprinkled with a secret mixture of
spices, placed on a perfectly toasted bun, soft
on the inside and crunchy on the outside,
and filled with chopped onions, mixed with
parsley and a squirt of Austrian tarragon
mustard. This perfect snack is very popular,
and they frequently sell out before they
close. There have been trips where I sadly
had to go without. My second favourite fast
food, Leberkäse, translates to “liver cheese”,
although it contains neither. It is made from
very finely ground pork and beef mixed with
garlic, onions and spices, and in flavour it
may be closest to baloney. Although it can be
eaten cold, butcher shops that bake it daily
generally serve it hot, cutting a thick slice
and serving it on a roll with nothing else than
perhaps a couple of slices of pickle. Every
butcher and most large grocery stores will
serve it. Simply delicious!
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Stieglkeller
Café Tomaselli
near the cathedral, this is a most popular spot.
Literally everyone will walk by at some point. This
is where patrons come to slow down, read, catch
up with friends and watch the people. But let’s
not forget that the Tomaselli also offers a great
selection of snacks, pastries, ice cream sundaes
and coffee specialities, served the old-fashioned
Austrian way: on a metal tray with a glass of
water, by waiters in black bow ties.
www.tomaselli.at
Best Café for Pastries
Café Fingerlos
A little off the beaten path from where most of
the well-known cafés are located, this modern
café and patisserie is best known for its amazing
and colourful array of house-made pastries,
the result of traditional recipes updated by
modern techniques. It is also a popular spot for
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Afro Café
breakfast, which is presented most beautifully in
varied dishes or on tiered trays. Café Fingerlos is
definitely worth straying from the beaten path.
for live entertainment on the first Tuesday of
the month, acts that perform everything from
jazz to swing and salsa.
Franz-Josef-Straße 9 5020 Salzburg
www.carpediemfinestfingerfood.com
Best Café for Modern Atmosphere
Best Café for Funky Atmosphere
Carpe Diem
Red Bull is not Dietrich Mateschitz’s only
popular beverage. His Kombucha soda,
Carpe Diem, offered in a few flavours, is also
sold around the world. He opened a café
and restaurant of the same name in the
Getreidegasse. The restaurant specialises in
gourmet finger food and occupies the upper
floor, while the downstairs and the terrace
are dedicated to the café and bar, a preferred
meeting place for the chic crowd taking a
shopping break with a cup of coffee or a glass
of Champagne. Carpe Diem also is the venue
Afro Café
For a very different spin on café society, one of
my favourite places is the Afro Café, which is
part gourmet Mecca, part hipster café, and part
social project. Advertising executive Johannes
Kastner, along with the founder of the Afro Café
in Johannesburg, South Africa, Grant Rushmere,
and Dietrich Mateschitz created the Afro Coffee
Company in 2007 as a hymn to the African soul,
believing that African coffees and teas should
no longer be exported solely as raw materials,
but should instead be offered as independent,
high-quality branded products.
The Afro Café became its retail outpost and
coffee bar. Here, guests can shop for branded
coffee and tea products, tabletop accessories
and keepsakes, as well as sample modern
African dishes, accompanied by a variety of
beverages from the brand. The space is decorated in collaboration with Monique Fagan,
founder of the KEAG social project (Kommetjie
Environmental Awareness Group) in Cape Town,
South Africa, where the goal it is to create jobs
for young African designers and artists. With the
help of residents from the townships, rubbish
was collected from the local beaches and
transformed into pieces of art, which create the
urban-chic African atmosphere of this casual
and colourful hangout. Check their website for
occasional special events ranging from jazz to
blues and African music.
www.afrocoffee.com
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Stieglkeller
Where to drink
Best Beer Garden
Stieglkeller
Just as important in Austria as the coffee are
wine and beer, and Salzburg has a number
of popular beer gardens and breweries. The
largest is Stiegl, which is Austria’s leading
privately owned brewery, producing amazing
beers that are sold around the world. Its
owners are strong supporters of local
traditions, sports and the arts. Stiegl-Brauwelt,
on the edge of town, with its brewery
shop, museum, casual restaurants and beer
garden, is well worth a visit. But for the best
atmosphere of all the city’s beer gardens,
visit the Stieglkeller right below the fortress.
Up on a slope of Mönchsberg Mountain, the
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Stieglkeller overlooks the baroque centre
of town. If the weather does not allow for
outdoor seating, the interior’s various rooms
in alpine décor surely will not disappoint
visitors as they enjoy the varied beers the
Stiegl brewery has to offer, along with
samplings from their generous traditional
Austrian menu.
www.taste-gassner.com
Best Bar With A View
Steinterasse
Perched on top of the Hotel Stein, the bar’s
terrace and large glass windows allow for one
of the city’s best panoramas, day and night
and in any weather. Here, locals of all ages
mingle with visitors, nibbling on bites from the
contemporary menu and sipping one of count-
less cocktails. My favourite is Aperol Spritzer, a
combination of Aperol, white wine and sparkling mineral water.
www.hotelstein.at
Where to shop
Best Food Market
Friesacher Heuriger
Friesacher is Salzburg’s largest and most
famous Heuriger, a name for a wine tavern
serving the most recent year’s wine in a rustic
setting. Friesacher not only offers Austrian
wines, but also classic French vintages to
accompany a traditional buffet of dishes made
from farm-grown and regional ingredients.
The environment is casual and provincial, with
alpine touches everywhere.
Feinkost Kölbl
This small gourmet shop is a great stop for a
quick snack and a glass of Prosecco or freshly
squeezed fruit juice, or to stock up on international delicacies. Feinkost Kölbl has been
selling fine foods since 1959, and the selection includes ample choices of charcuterie
and cheeses, oils and vinegars, condiments,
honeys and jams, teas and freshly ground
coffees, as well as wines and spirits, including
eau de vies from the Styrian Alois Gölles
distillery, also well known for exceptional
speciality vinegars.
www.friesacher-heuriger.com
www.koelbl-feinkost.at
Best Wine Bar
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Best Coffee
220 Grad
220 Grad, which gets its name from the
brewing temperature, is a small coffee roastery,
store and café, hidden away on a tiny side
street in the historic centre of town. As a result,
it’s mostly locals frequenting the place, for its
assortment of fine coffees and the cosy and
modern atmosphere of the café.
www.220grad.com
Best Wine Store
Alte Vinothek
A meeting place for foodies and wine lovers,
the Alte Vinothek, owned by restaurateurs
Claudia and Raimund Katterbauer, delivers on
both libations and food. In addition to over 800
wines from Austria, Italy, Spain and France, its
gourmet shop carries charcuterie and Italian
antipasti, fresh bread from the Rosenmayer
specialty bakery, unique cheeses, and homemade pasta, which can all be tried in their
tasting room, complete with white table
cloths. Simply ask Sommelier Karl Seitner for
suggested pairings.
www.altevinothek.at
Best Spice Shop
Schuhbeck
Renowned Bavarian chef Alfons Schuhbeck
has built an empire with his cooking school
and multiple restaurants. His passion for
spices led to a book and a number of spice
shops around Germany and Switzerland.
Recently, he also opened an outpost in
Salzburg’s newly renovated town hall. It
carries a huge variety of spices, salts, oils,
mustards, specialty sugars, jams and teas. Try
one of their unique spice mixtures for specific
Schuhbeck
recipes such as Bavarian bread, Bruschetta,
meat loaf, Paella, cheese, ginger bread and
apple pie.
music as well as made-to-measure traditional
folklore clothing, .
www.schuhbeck.de
Best Local Fashion
Best Local Treasures
Salzburger Heimatwerk
This cultural institution is appropriately
located in the Neue Residenz, a Renaissance
building designed in the late 16th century
as the residence for the city’s richest prince
archbishop, Wolf Dietrich of Raitenau, and his
family. It is a platform to present the best of the
region’s craftsmen and artisans, with regular
exhibitions and a shop presenting a variety
of products. The Salzburger Heimatwerk sells
Austrian gourmet foods, fabrics, table linens
and tabletop items, home décor, books and
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Ludwig Reiter
www.sbg.heimatwerk.at
Stassny and Gössl
“Trachten” are traditional Austrian clothes that
can be found in many stores around town.
Since they have become chic again, you will
see many locals wearing them. Stassny in the
Getreidegasse carries a number of high-end
Alpine lines including my favourite, the Kleider
Manufaktur Habsburg, with its modern interpretations of what nobility from the AustroHungarian Empire wore to hunting parties,
gala dinners, tea and garden parties, polo
tournaments, horse riding and travel. Stassny
also provides bespoke options for men, women
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and children, ranging from Dirndls, blouses and
shirts, to hunting jackets and pants. Founded
in 1947, Gössl is best known for its blouses with
intricate smocking and embroidery. It owns
more than 30 stores around Austria and exports
to countries all over the world. Its headquarters
are located in a gorgeous 17th-century estate,
originally called Rupertihof and renamed
Gwandhaus (clothes house) by the Gössl family.
Situated near Hellbrunn Palace in an area known
for some of the most beautiful villas, it is part
retail shop, part museum, part event space, part
factory, and includes a gourmet shop, as well as
a restaurant and café with a garden that boasts
stunning vistas of the mountains.
www.stassny.at
www.goessl.com
Best Shoes
Ludwig Reiter
The world-renowned shoemaker got its start
in Vienna in 1885, and the name Ludwig Reiter
has since become synonymous with handmade shoes in the classical Viennese style. The
company has collaborated with designers such
as Helmut Lang, as well as with Viennese theatres, fitting performers with their shoes. One
of the 20 stores in Austria, the Salzburg shop in
the historical Goldgasse sells sports, casual and
formal shoes for men and women, hand bags
and accessories, as well as offering custom
options for the most discerning customers.
www.ludwig-reiter.com
Best Leather Accessories
Gürtelmacher Schliesselberger
The Schliesselberger family has been tanning
and manufacturing leather goods since 1820.
Today, locals come for their extensive line of
belts, wallets, handbags and suspenders, but
also to have custom belts made within just a
few days. Choose from a variety of pigskins,
cowhides, calfskins, suede, deerskins, and
embossed leathers, discuss stitching options
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and colours, add a unique buckle, and voilà, you
have a belt like no one else. They will even make
you a one-of-a-kind collar for your cat or dog.
www.guertelmacher.at
Best Necessity
Kirchtag
When visiting Salzburg, one is often surprised by
the famous “Schnürlregen” (string rain), which
can happen any time of year. As well, superheavy downpours, the kinds that make you duck
under an awning and wait them out, are not
uncommon. So having a fashionable collection
of umbrellas is a must for anyone living here.
For over a hundred years, Kirchtag has been
Salzburg’s source for handmade umbrellas and
canes. The handles are made from one of 25
woods, including local species such as elm, ash
and pear wood, as well as exotic options, such
as rosewood, ebony, Makassar ebony, wenge
and snakewood. The selection of fabrics is
also generous, so there really is something for
everyone. Or you can bring your own fabric,
provided it’s waterproof. A custom umbrella
takes about two weeks, but they can put a rush
on the order if needed. If you are planning on
enjoying some of Salzburg’s amazing hiking
trails, a Kirchtag cane will be helpful and chic.
How about one in ebony with a silver handle?
www.kirchtag.com
Best Music Shop
Musikhaus Katholnigg
Within a 3-minute walk from the festival house
is Salzburg’s favourite shop for music aficionados. What started out as a piano manufacturer in 1847 is now the best resource for CDs,
DVDs, and vinyl records, focusing on classical
music, jazz, folk music, chansons, world
music and cabaret. During the Summer Music
Festival, Katholnigg hosts discussions and
autograph signings with visiting guest artists.
www.salzburg-cd.com
Carpe Diem
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Best Garden Furnishings & Décor
Lederleitner
Markus Lederleitner, Austria’s trendiest gardener,
maintains a number of garden shops and
nurseries. The one in Salzburg is located in
a beautiful allée near Hellbrunn, and carries
everything from plants and flowers, to hip
outdoor furniture, lighting, accessories and
tabletop items, a great selection of design books,
and even stone floors, gazebos and pergolas.
They have indoor/outdoor living covered!
www.lederleitner.at
Best Home Décor
Gehmacher
In 1789, the shop on the Alter Markt (old market)
started as a purveyor of silk and wool fabrics,
but since 1992, it has become the go-to place
for traditional and transitional home décor from
around Europe. Their assortment is comprised
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of furniture, lighting and accessories from luxury
manufacturers such as Flamant (France), tabletop
items from, among others, Gmunder Keramik
(Austria) and CASAgent (Denmark), table linens
from top lines like Texteis Iris (Portugal), and lots
of accessories, decorative art, as well as furnishings for children’s rooms. I love to pick up the
odd trinket on my visits.
www.gehmacher.at
Best Antiques
Antiquitäten Hiko-Antik
This tiny shop in a medieval building next to
the Gstättentor, a gate that was part of the
13th-century city walls, sells artwork and small
antiques from private estates in the area. Their
specialities are silver, Jugendstil, folk art, curiosity cabinet objects and Faïence.
www.hiko-antik.at
Best Pharmacy
Best Gallery
Alte Fürst-Erzbischöfliche Hofapotheke
The former court pharmacy of the prince
archbishop on the Alter Markt, one of
Salzburg’s most attractive squares, is still
dispensing drugs, ointments and elixirs
today from its ornate gilded Rococo counters
and cabinets. So if you are in need of any
medication during your visit, why not get it
from the most beautiful pharmacy in town?
Thaddaeus Ropac
Thaddaeus Ropac first fell in love with
art during an early school trip to the
Kunsthistorisches Museum (Museum of Art
History) in Vienna. He initially honed his craft
during an internship with Joseph Beuys in
1982 in New York, where he got to know
some of the hottest artists working there at
the time, including Jean-Michel Basquiat,
www.hofapotheke.at
Keith Haring and Robert Mapplethorpe. He
opened his gallery in Salzburg a year later, and
a second one in Paris in 1990. Today, Ropac
is considered one of the most prominent art
dealers around, curating major private and
corporate collections and acting as an advisor
to major museums and public institutions. The
gallery’s headquarters, located in the neoclassical manor Villa Kast, is home to changing
exhibitions of blue chip artists such as Georg
Baselitz, Andy Warhol, Daniel Richter, Gerwald
Rockenschaub, Alex Katz and Arnulf Rainer. Art
makes for a great souvenir!
www.ropac.net
Best Souvenir
Café-Konditorei Fürst
Almost everyone brings back Mozartkugeln,
the famous and delicious balls of milk chocolate filled with nougat and marzipan. There are
a few versions by different manufacturers, but
220 Grad
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rooted in this history. Salt had a tremendous
value and was called “White Gold”. Salzburg
SALZ revives this long tradition trading in
various salt-related products, including a
collection of salts from around the world – each
exhibiting a unique flavour – salt and pepper
mills, salt lamps, and salt bricks to build healing
rooms. What could be more appropriate than
bringing home some salt from Salzburg?
there are plenty of live concerts to be enjoyed
year round. The musicians of the Salzburger
Schloßkonzerte perform works by Mozart and
his contemporaries 230 times a year in the
elegant marble hall of the baroque Mirabell
Palace, built by Archbishop Wolf Dietrich von
Raitenau for his mistress, Salome Alt. It is a
wonderful way to enjoy timeless music in a
stunning period setting.
www.salzburg-salz.at
www.salzburger-schlosskonzerte.at
What to do
Best Classical Concerts
Salzburger Schloßkonzerte
Salzburg is a city renowned for classical music.
Even outside the famous Salzburg Festivals,
Best Museum for Art
Museum der Moderne
The museum has two locations. The smaller
one is located in the historic Rupertinum,
which originally served as a seminary for the
Archdiocese of Salzburg. Since 1983, these
enduring rooms have exhibited mainly graphic
Carpe Diem
the original can be found at Café-Konditorei
Fürst, whose founder created the famous treat
in 1890.
www.original-mozartkugel.com
Sporer
For lesser-known gourmet creations, I can offer
up other interesting options. I never miss a visit
to the spirit shop Sporer in the Getreidegasse,
where, in the tiny and dark interior, patrons
have tasted all kinds of Schnaps (eau de vie),
liqueurs and brandy since 1903.
They sell their own varied brand, but also
represent some hard-to-find Austrian distilleries. The best thing about Sporer is that, for
a small fee, you can taste everything prior to
purchasing a bottle. But be careful, those small
sips are on the generous side, and given the
strength of the spirits it can go to the head
264
quickly. Some of my favourites are Enzian
Schnaps, from the rare alpine Enzian flower
roots, Nuss Schnaps made from walnuts, and
Hollerblüten Likör (elderflower liqueur), as
well as their Hausmischung, which is their
secret recipe herb bitter, a great digestive after
consuming all that rich Austrian food. Knowing
from experience, their bottles are very durable,
and fare well during travel.
www.sporer.at
Salzburg SALZ
Salzburg has a long tradition of mining salt,
which goes back to the Celts (Kelts) living in
the area from the 8th to the 6th centuries BC.
Later, the archbishops of Salzburg accumulated
tremendous wealth as a result of the salt trade.
The name of the city, meaning “salt fortress”,
and its river Salzach, meaning “salt river”, are
265
Museum der Moderne
daily demonstrations of local crafts, such as glass
painting, pottery, soap and candle making. You
can also take a small train around the entire area,
which is included in the ticket price.
www.freilichtmuseum.com
Best Way to see Salzburg in a
Unique Way
Photo: Ausseerland - Salzkammergut
Night Watchmen Tour
Just as in any other historic European town for
the centuries prior to the invention of electricity, night watchmen protected the citizens.
Take a trip back into medieval times and follow
one of them into the dark, through the oldest
parts of town, and learn the secrets of some of
Salzburg’s lesser-known sights.
www.nachtwaechter-salzburg.com
Best Day Trip
Salzkammergut
works and photography. The larger of the two,
designed by Swiss architect Luigi Snozzi, is
situated atop the Mönchsberg, offering panoramic views of the city outside and a world class
modern art collection inside. After perusing two
levels of indoor and outdoor exhibition spaces,
enjoy overlooking the historic city centre with a
drink and bite at m32, the bar and restaurant in
front of the museum, which is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
www.museumdermoderne.at
Best Museum for Nature
Haus der Natur
The House of Nature has delighted children
and adults alike since 1924. Its permanent
exhibitions encompass animals and plants
from prehistoric times, as well as Africa and
South America, dioramas of local habitats, the
266
human body, Alpine crystals and one entire hall
dedicated to Salzburg’s own, mathematician
and physicist Christian Andreas Doppler, best
known for the discovery of the Doppler Effect.
www.hausdernatur.at
Best Museum for Local History
Salzburger Freilichtmuseum
To explore the area’s rural heritage, visit this
outdoor museum spread out over more than
123 acres in a nature reserve on the outskirts
of Salzburg, where the local government has
collected and rebuilt over a hundred original
farmhouses, barns, and mills from all areas of
the province.
There is a great variety in design, construction
methods and interiors on display, and the
buildings are furnished with authentic period
pieces. The museum offers special exhibits and
Salzkammergut
The areas surrounding Salzburg have countless options for inspired day trips, such as
the Eisriesenwelt Werfen, a 100-million-yearold extensive labyrinth of ice caves, or the
Salzwelten in Hallein, the 7,000-year-old salt
mines south of Salzburg, that cultivated the
enormous wealth of the prince archbishops.
But the Salzkammergut (salt chamber court), a
resort area with many lakes and blessed with
varied natural beauty, is a place to which I
love to return often. It was the Emperor Franz
Joseph’s favourite vacation spot. His holidays
were spent in Bad Ischl, and each of the small
towns and villages by the lakes offer their
own charm. Some are surrounded by rolling
hills, others by tall mountains, and many still
remind us of the glory of the Austro-Hungarian
Empire, with their historical buildings
boasting ornate façades. One of my favourites
is Gmunden at the Traunsee, home to the
popular Gmundner Keramik, the 300-year-old
manufacturer of the hand-painted earthenware found in the home of most Austrians,
and St. Gilgen, the picturesque village on the
northwest shore of the Wolfgangsee, known
for its beautiful villas of notable Viennese
who started coming here for the summers at
the end of the 19th century. The area is still
popular with Europe’s aristocrats and wealthy,
many of them owning hideaways that are far
off the tourists’ paths. Whether basking in the
sun by the lakes, or hiking secluded trails, the
Salzkammergut always captivates.
www.salzkammergut.at
Best Kept Secret
Gemütlichkeit
The modus operandi when visiting Austria is
to embrace Gemütlichkeit, a mood that originates from the Biedermeier period and which
describes an environment or state of mind that
provides a sense of comfort, relaxation and
cheer, an unhurried peace of mind, and a sense
of belonging. So remember while in Salzburg,
slow down, linger and enjoy its charms.
Claudia Juestel, is the founder and principal
of the San Francisco based interior design firm
Adeeni Design Group whose work includes
projects around the United States and in
London, India and on Guam. The firm is known
for a cosmopolitan and eclectic approach to
bespoke interiors that range from traditional to
modern styles and are infused with a sense of
comfort, warmth and timelessness.
Claudia also serves as the Design &
Architecture Editor of SFLuxe where she has
had the pleasure of interviewing some of the
country’s most preeminent interior designers
and architects for her series “Tea With Claudia”.
Her expertise ranges from design and art to
hospitality, entertaining and cooking, and
many of her passions are expressed on her
relevant blog www.adeenidesigngroup.com/
blog/articles/
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Salzburg - Salzkammergut

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