A Taste of the Waterways

Transcription

Favourite Places to Eat, Drink and Stay
2013 Edition
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Shannon-Erne Navigation
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Lough Beg
Antrim
Donegal
Omagh
Suck Navigation
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Sh
an
no
Galway
Bay
n
Dundalk
Drogheda
a tion
Grand
Canal
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Tullamore
Roy
al C
anal
o
nn
Sh
a
Foynes
Estu
Milltown
Feeder
Mountmellick
Mountmellick
Branch
Carlow
Killaloe
Castleconnell
ar y
DUBLIN
Naas Branch
Bagenalstown
Limerick
Naas
row Navigation
Bar
n
Fergus
Navigation
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ooth
Mayn
erry
Edend
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w
o
rtst
Robe
Athy
Ennis
Boyne
Navan
gar
llin
Mu
Kilbeggan
Banagher
Portumna
Lough
Derg
Newry Ship
Canal
Lough
Oughter
Ballykeeran
Na
v ig
Galway
Eglinton Canal
Newry
Ulster Canal
Killinure Lough
Athlone
Clonmacnois
Ballinasloe
n Naviga
Poyntz Pass
Belturbet
n ule
aho shr
ym bey
Ball Ab
Lecarrow Canal
Lough
Ree
Lough
Corrib
te
Longford
Roscommon
Cong Canal
Armagh
Laga
Portadown
y Canal
Tarmonbarry
Upper
Bann
Uls
Clones
rne
n-E y
Shanntoer wa
Wa
Carrick-onShannon
Westport
Upper Lough
Erne
Ballinamore
Boyle
Benburb
Enniskillen
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Lough
h A Allen
llen
L. K C.
ey
Lough
Mask
Lower Lough Erne
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Sligo
Blackwater
Newr
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Lou
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BELFAST
Lisburn
Ern
Belmullet
Canal
Lough
Neagh
Tyrone
Navigation
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e
Bell
L. Melvin
Tarbert
Larne
Strabane
Ballyshannon
Kilrush
Lower Bann
Navigation
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Shannon Navigation
Londonderry
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oy
Strabane Canal
tio
Royal Canal
Coleraine
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Lower Bann
le
oy
hF
ug
Lo
ana
Grand Canal
rC
Erne System
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Barrow Navigation
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Graiguenamanagh
Waterford
Lismore
Canal
New Ross
Wexford
r
Tralee Ship Canal
Sui
Carrick-on-Suir
Tralee
Slaney
St Mullins
Bridgetown C
Rosslare
Fermoy
Bride Navigation
Munster Blackwater
LEGEND
Cork
Waterways Ireland network
Other navigations
Tidal navigations
Disused navigations
Restoration in progress
Border
Lee Navigation
Bantry
Kinsale
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2
50
100 km
Cartography © EUROMAPPING 2009
Favourite Places to Eat, Drink and Stay
Ireland’s beautiful
and uncrowded inland
waterways are among
the greatest pleasures to
be experienced on this
lovely island although,
for many, they remain
a hidden gem, waiting
to be discovered. Yet,
with a growing range
of on-shore amenities,
including many miles of
new walkways and cycle
tracks - and an intriguing
selection of Visitor
Centres - you don’t even
have to be afloat to enjoy
much that the waterways
have to offer.
Time spent enjoying the wildlife and
exploring the unfolding countryside along
the waterways makes a relaxing and
rewarding holiday – and, while cooking on
board a cruiser is fun, the friendly pubs
and places to eat and stay offer other
choices. You’ll find many places that
take pride in local produce and, although
cutting edge cuisine may not be the norm,
there are surprises.
Our recommendations vary tremendously
in style, but we hope that this
independently assessed guide will lead
you to many enjoyable experiences leaving you with happy memories of
Ireland’s wonderful waterways.
Ireland’s waterways are a
unique tourist attraction
and an invaluable
recreational resource
for visitors and locals
alike, sustaining jobs and
generating economic
benefit. Waterways Ireland
is delighted to again
partner with Georgina
Campbell Guides in the
production of this updated
2013 edition of “Taste
of the Waterways”, the
guide to favourite places
to eat, drink and stay
along the waterways.
Despite the difficult
economic circumstances
we all face, we are delighted that
the 2013 guide continues to include
over 100 outstanding establishments,
independently assessed by GC Guides.
The dining experience is a central part
of enjoying the waterways, whether for a
day or a week, on a charter boat or on
your own boat, fishing or walking along
the waterways. To complement the many
and varied dining options featured in
this guide, this new edition also provides
visitors with a “flavour” of the diverse
range of attractions and activities that they
can enjoy in and around each of the seven
waterways.
I hope you enjoy your visit to the beautiful
waterways and take the opportunity to eat
or stay at some of these establishments.
Georgina Campbell
Éanna Rowe
Editor
Head of Marketing & Communications
Key to abbreviations:
D: Dinner L: Lunch Debit/Credit Cards: MC: Mastercard V: Visa D: Diners L: Laser S: Switch M: Maestro
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Barrow Navigation
& Barrow Line
Things To See And Do Along The Way
The BARROW LINE and the RIVER
BARROW pass through a region that
is blessed by nature and the presence
of this lovely, active waterway adds
enormously to the experience of all
visitors. Whether exploring the area by
boat or from the land, there is always
much of interest to see and do.
One of the ‘Three Sisters’ - the Barrow,
Nore and Suir, which join the Atlantic
south-east of Waterford city - the Barrow
is Ireland’s second longest river and many
would cite it as the most beautiful. And,
as it wends its way quietly through the
lush and richly forested countryside of
the ‘sunny South-East’, taking in many
charming towns and villages – and a great
deal of history – along the way, who could
argue with that?
The river marked its 220th anniversary
as a navigable waterway in 2011 with
a year-long calendar of events, some
of which look set to become annual.
THE BARROW RIVER ARTS FESTIVAL,
for example, takes place in March,
and GRAIGUENAMANAGH ‘TOWN OF
BOOKS’ FESTIVAL
(www.booktownireland.com) in
September. There are many more
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festivals and events all year, as well
as permanent attractions, notably
Carlow Town’s VISUAL CENTRE FOR
CONTEMPORARY ART & THE GEORGE
BERNARD SHAW THEATRE
(www.visualcarlow.ie). The opening of
this impressive amenity (which offers good
food too) now means that culture vultures
will want to head for Carlow at any time
– and, while in the area, visitors with an
interest in history should allow time to
visit some nearby attractions.
Co Carlow has a large number of ancient
settlement sites, notably an important
pre-historic monument east of Carlow
Town (R726), the BROWNSHILL
DOLMEN. Its magnificent granite
capstone weighs about 100 tons and
it was probably constructed between
4,900 and 5,500 years ago - like
other monuments from that time, it is
a constant source of amazement and
conjecture for visitors.
Relating to the more recent past, the
voluntarily operated TULLOW MUSEUM
(059 915 1286), near Carlow, celebrates
the life of the arctic explorer Sir Ernest
Shackleton who was born near Athy in
1874, and also houses many other items
of national and local interest.
Barrow Navigation & Barrow Line
Sometimes the past and present come
together, as in the CUSHENDALE
WOOLLEN MILLS (059 972 4118;
Mon-Fri 8.30-12.30 & 1.30-5.30, Sat
10-1) at Graiguenamanagh, a mill which
continues an historic connection with wool
going back to the 13th century Cistercian
monks who founded DUISKE ABBEY
(www.discoverireland.ie) in this village,
and is one of very few woollen mills
operating in Ireland today.
But this beautiful region is perhaps, most
of all, a place to enjoy the great outdoors.
If you are in the Inistioge area, a visit to
WOODSTOCK GARDENS & ARBORETUM
(www.woodstock.ie) is recommended.
Under restoration by Kilkenny County
Council for a number of years, they are
gardens for all seasons with magnificent
trees and ‘pleasure garden’ walks, a
winter garden, a walled garden, formal
flower terraces, a grotto and a tiled
house among the attractions; there is
a children’s playground and, although
the main house is in ruins (stabilisation
work is currently in progress), a fine
conservatory has been restored and is
used for tea rooms in summer.
FISHING is of course a major attraction
to the area, and The Barrow supports
a mixed fishery; with both coarse and
game fish plentiful in this great river and
its tributaries, it is a favourite haunt of
fisherfolk. Inland Fisheries Ireland
(www.fishinginireland.info/) have full
details on this and other Irish fisheries.
There is abundant wildlife and the
towpaths, once used by horses towing
barges, now provide a relaxed traffic-free
path so a stroll along the river or canal
is a pleasure for all to enjoy. WALKING
and BIRD WATCHING are also among
the area’s most popular activities, and
serious walkers love THE BARROW WAY,
a waymarked long distance path that is
divided into manageable sections (visit
www.irishtrails.ie for maps). Its full length
covers 100 scenic kilometres along canal
and river tow paths from Lowtown on
the Grand Canal to St. Mullins, a place
known for its medieval ecclesiastical
remains - information is given at
ST. MULLINS HERITAGE CENTRE
(stmullinsheritagecentre.com).
CYCLING and HORSERIDING are popular
too, and visitors with a serious interest in
horses will enjoy Goresbridge Horse Sales
(www.irishhorse.com); their calendar
includes spring and autumn sales of
registered Connemara and Irish Draught
horses. And you don’t have to arrive by
boat to enjoy being on the water, as many
WATERSPORTS, notably CANOEING AND
KAYAKING, and related activities such as
DAY CRUISES, are available to visitors.
A number of boat hire companies
operate in this area. For more
details on all attractions,
activities and events in the area
visit Tourist Information Offices,
www.waterwaysireland.org or
discoverireland.com
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BARROW NAVIGATION
& BARROW LINE
Place of interest
Cycle Hire
Canoe/Kayak/PaddleBoatHire
Dayboat Hire
1
Watersports
Cruiser/Barge Hire
Mooring
Boat Trips
Tourist Information
Office
2
3
The Journey Begins…
Robertstown on the Grand Canal is a
crossroads of the inland waterways.
Within its hospitable area, the Grand
Canal continues its stately progress
across Ireland, trending northwest after
coming in from the east and Dublin. The
attractive Milltown Feeder is soon headed
off to the southeast towards Pollardstown
Fen. And the Barrow Line – older than
the section west to the Shannon – is
almost immediately heading away to the
southwest, beginning a long descent to
the sea.
Properly speaking, the Barrow Navigation
does not begin until Athy. From there,
using a mixture of river and canal,
it runs southward for 69 kilometres
through always beautiful and increasingly
impressive scenery, until it reaches tidal
waters at St. Mullins. But although the
45 or so kilometres of waterway from
the Robertstown area to Athy are totally
a canal, and the Grand Canal at that,
for the purposes of savouring hospitality
along the way we can regard the Barrow
as beginning where the waterways divide
at Lowtown, a kilometre westward of
Binns Bridge at Robertstown.
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BARROW NAVIGATION
& BARROW LINE:
For good measure, the waterways divide
twice. Taking the Old Barrow Line, there’s
a pub at LITTLETOWN BRIDGE, and if
you should head up the Milltown Feeder
(taking account of depth and airdraft
restrictions - you may need to use the
dinghy) there’s the Hanged Man’s (see
entry) at Milltown Bridge, with MILLTOWN
village itself nearby.
1 Hanged Man’s,
Milltown, Newbridge,
Co Kildare
045 431515
EAT & DRINK
astern, but at the first little stone bridge
south of the motorway crossing, there’s
complete rural peace with a jetty on the
west bank, and a lovely old-world thatched
pub, The Fisherman’s (see entry),
within a very short stroll at Fisherstown
Crossroads, also on the west bank.
2 The Fisherman’s Thatched Inn,
Fisherstown, Co Laois
057 862 6488
DRINK
Right beside the canal bridge, Pat Keane’s
renowned bar and restaurant is full of
charm. Although famed for great steaks
a wide menu is offered, also live music
(trad) Mondays from 9pm. No bar meals,
food is served in the restaurant only.
D daily, from 5pm, L Sun only, from
12.30. 2-course “Flexi bird” D, d25 (all
night Mon-Thu, before 6.30 Fri-Sun), also
à la carte. MC, V.
Those with distance covering in mind will
head on for RATHANGAN, an attractive
spot where the Bridge Bar (045 524412)
is close to hand.
The canal’s first acquaintance with the
“goodly Barrow” is at MONASTEREVIN –
in fact, it crosses the river by aqueduct.
Monasterevin finds itself the ultimate
transport hub, a focal point for railway,
road, river and canal. It is also within
Dublin’s commuter belt, so it can
seem very busy though the motorway
has relieved the urban traffic pressure.
However, if a berth is possible near the
lifting bridge, Boland’s Bar nearby is
a peaceful haven. It takes a while for
Monastervin’s frenetic activity to fade
All are welcome at Sean Ward’s
picturesque and aptly named pub, and
everyone enjoys the atmosphere – with a
welcoming fire in the grate and the front
bar jam-packed with bric-a-brac, it’s a
delightful spot. And there’s music too,
with local musicians playing traditional
sessions on Tuesday nights all year, also
Sundays in summer. Not a daytime
place except at weekends. Usually open
from 6pm midweek, Sat from 2pm, Sun
12.30-11; a range of gourmet pies &
chips is the only food.
Five kilometres further on, VICARSTOWN
is the busiest port on the Barrow Line,
a lovely little spot with the classic steep
canal bridge in its midst, and the Crean
family’s hospitable pub, the Vicarstown
Inn (057 862 5189) on one side, and
Turley’s (057 862 5252) on the other.
No food is available at either though a
sandwich might be arranged, but ten
7
kilometres along the canal there’s a jetty
at the Cuan Mhuire Garden Centre
(059 863 1493) just outside ATHY, and
the informal café-restaurant there would
be very suitable for a light daytime bite.
It’s just two kilometres to Athy, with three
locks in town to descend to the Barrow
itself. Right beside the canal harbour,
the Bridge House/Purcells still has the
style of the classic wayside hostelry, but
the road through Athy is mighty busy,
and other parts of the town are quieter.
Conveniently central is The Bay Tree
Café & Restaurant (059 864 1819) on
Stanhope Street (off Leinster Square);
they offer a wide selection of food all day,
including Sunday lunch, with gluten-free
cooking a particular speciality. The town
has two hotels, the most central is Carlton
Abbey Hotel (059 863 0100; closed at
the time of going to press but expected
to re-open); a little further away, on the
Dublin Road, it is the family-run Clanard
Court Hotel (059 864 0666), offering all
facilities including a restaurant. Athy Golf
Club (059 863 1729), which is 2km from
town on the Kildare road and welcomes
visitors, serves good food. Athy Farmers
Market & Craft Fair is held on Emily
Square in front of the Heritage Centre on
Sundays (10-2).
3 Coursetown Country House,
Stradbally Road, Athy, Co Kildare
059 863 1101
STAY
Attached to a large arable farm just
outside Athy, Jim and Iris Fox’s fine
200‑year old house is welcoming,
immaculately maintained and very
comfortable, with some unusual
attributes, including Jim’s natural history
library (where guests are welcome to
browse) and extensive, well-tended
gardens. Lovely bedrooms have pristine
shower rooms, and breakfast is a real
treat. Dogs allowed in some areas.
B&B d40-d60pps. MC, V, L.
The first experience of being on the River
Barrow itself at Athy is only the briefest –
you’re quickly across and back into a
canalised section. But after Ardreigh
Lock three kilometres further south,
river cruising is resumed. Upwards of
ten kilometres south, and at MAGANEY
BRIDGE there’s a quay and landing stage
at this meeting point of three counties
(Carlow, Kildare and Laois), with a shop
and petrol station across a busy road.
CARLOW is 10 kilometres further south
along the Navigation, a busy river town
with all facilities (see below). The town
has a number of good informal eating
places including Lennons@VISUAL (see
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entry), and the popular Rattlebag Café
(059 913 9568) on Barrack Street
(an ideal place to drop into for a snack
– their home baking is delicious – or
maybe something more substantial). For
something different in the evening, try
Mimosa (059 917 0888) overlooking the
cathedral on College Street; it specialises
in tapas and has all the ingredients for a
good night out.
4 Lennons @ VISUAL,
Old Dublin Road,
Carlow, Co Carlow
059 917 9245
EAT
Popular local restaurateur Sinead Byrne
and her son Ross operate the café in the
impressive Visual Centre for Contemporary
Art & the George Bernard Shaw Theatre
in the heart of Carlow Town. Local and
regional artisan produce features in head
chef Gail Johnson’s appealingly simple
food, served in a stylish contemporary
setting. Open Sun, 12-4; Mon-Sat,
10.30-5 & Thu-Sat 6-9.30 (last orders).
Closed bank hols. D, L, MC, V.
5 Barrowville Townhouse,
Kilkenny Road,
Carlow, Co Carlow
059 914 3324
STAY
The name says it all - Dermot and Anna
Smyth’s exceptionally comfortable
guesthouse is on the river, just a few
minutes walk from the town centre. Set
in lovely gardens, with an open fire for
chilly days, it’s a choice base for exploring
this beautiful area. B&B about d40pps.
Dogs may be accepted by arrangement.
Amex, MC, V, L.
As the Barrow grows in size on its stately
progress southward, so the shoreside
choices increase. Next port after Carlow
is LEIGHLINBRIDGE (pronounced
“Lochlinbridge”) where the options include
berthing at the marina at the famed Lord
Bagenal Inn (see entry), or along the
public quayside.
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6 The Lord Bagenal Inn,
Leighlinbridge, Co Carlow
059 972 1668
EAT, DRINK & STAY
Known for its exceptional wine list and fine
Irish art collection, this beautifully situated
modern hotel retains some of its original
character in the old end bar, with an
open fire. Bar meals include a lunchtime
carvery/buffet, but connoisseurs will
enjoy the cosily traditional Lord Bagenal
Restaurant. B&B from about d40pps.
Restaurant D Sun & Mon 6-9, Tue-Sat
6-9.30, L Sun only 12-2.30.
Bar food 12-9.30 daily. Amex, D, V, L.
Then, in less than five kilometres,
BAGENALSTOWN (Muine Bheag) is along
a handsome curve of the river.
The waterside area is developing, and
the nearest pub is Jimmy D’s
(059 972 1758) this friendly pub is an
evening place during the week, opening
from 5 o’clock, but operates normal pub
hours at weekends (no food). Continuing
south, the river winds its way through
fine farmland with spectacular scenery
beyond. GORESBRIDGE, the next port of
call, is finding itself anew as a river port.
There’s berthing below the bridge on the
west bank, and first pub in the village is
Donohoe’s, complete with shop next door.
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BORRIS, seven kilometres downstream, is
rather less accessible – in fact, from the
river you wouldn’t know it was there at all.
But berth at Ballytiglea Bridge or Borris
Lock, and find your way up the hill to a
perfect little town which prospers quietly.
The grounds of Borris House (059 977
1884; www.borrishouse.com) are open
to the public (trails, looped walk) and
house tours are available by arrangement
(d10, under 16 free), entrance gates at
top of village; the house is also available
for functions and there are self-catering
cottages to rent. Also at the top of the
village, Jacqui Kennedy’s pretty tea rooms
(059 977 1749) on Main Street offer
delicious home cooked fare including local
specialities such as Goatsbridge trout;
open Tue-Sun 9.30-6 all year (no credit
cards).
7 The Step House Hotel,
Main Street, Borris, Co Carlow
059 977 3209
EAT, DRINK & STAY
James and Cait Coady redeveloped their
lovely old house to incorporate the pub
next door (in the family for 5 generations),
re-opening as The Step House Hotel – and
it’s a credit to the Coadys, who also own
one of Ireland’s finest classic pubs, Tynans
Bridge Bar, in Kilkenny city. Head chef
Alan Foley uses the best local ingredients,
organic where possible, in both the fine
dining Rubens Restaurant and the 1808
bar, where excellent casual food is offered.
B&B from about d55pps. Bar food 7
days: L 12.30-2.30, afternoon soup &
sandwiches; D from 6. Restaurant: D Fri
& Sat, L Sun only. MC, V, L.
8 M. O’Shea,
Main Street,
Borris, Co Carlow
059 977 3106
EAT & DRINK
For more direct sustenance, the Waterside
right on the quay; in the village there’s a
smashing little daytime café Coffee on
High (059 972 5725), and nearby we find
the legendary pub and general merchants
Doyle’s (see entry) also Ryan’s (059 972
4117), which is another delightful pub in
the old style.
9 The Waterside,
Graiguenamanagh, Co Kilkenny
059 972 4246
EAT & STAY
Halfway up the steep main street,
O’Shea’s picturesque old grocery section
at the front links into a modern-day shop
next door, with larger rooms for food or
music sessions behind. ‘Flexible’ food
service mainly consists of soup and
sandwiches, which may be made up to
order from the deli in the shop. Music
every fortnight or so: “it’s a bit random”.
MC, V, L.
By this time the scenery is perfect,
and after descending several locks,
including the beautiful Clashganna, we
reach the charming little river port of
GRAIGUENAMANAGH. People voyage
here, and go no further. It has everything,
including a book market – a collection of
booksellers sharing permanent premises on
the main street – and an annual Book Fair
(September).
Brian and Brigid Roberts’ characterful
quayside restaurant with rooms, offers
a range of mainstream choices such as
salmon, steaks and interesting vegetarian
dishes. An eel fishery dates back to
the Cistercian monks who built the
town and weirs on the river; although
currently unavailable for conservation
reasons, it is hoped the local speciality,
Graiguenamanagh smoked eel, will one
day be back on the menu. Brian Roberts
has bikes for hire; mountain bikes and
electric bikes offered, can collect and
deliver by trailer. B&B from d39pps.
D daily 6.30-9.30, L Sun only 12-3.
Reservations advised. Light meals in
summer, 11-4. Amex, MC, V, L.
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10 Doyle’s,
Graiguenamanagh, Co Kilkenny
059 972 4203
DRINK
This charming village enjoys a choice
of appealing hostelries, but don’t leave
without allowing time to drink in the
atmosphere of Doyle’s: a fire burns in
the back bar, and the old shop at the
front offers a varied collection of useful
items, including much of interest to the
fisherperson – even the briefest of visits
here will lift the spirits. Shop open MonSat 9.30am – normal pub closing time;
Sun open from 12noon.
Graiguenamanagh is in the midst of
lovely countryside, and just across the
flank of Brandon Hill, the pretty village
of INISTIOGE is well worth a taxi journey
through beautiful scenery. Here on
the River Nore you will find plenty of
characterful places to eat and drink
including a friendly traditional inn, The
Woodstock Arms (056 775 8440)
and Denis & Sandra Rudd’s well known
restaurant Circle of Friends
(087 622 2624; 12 noon to 9pm in
summer; may close Mon; reservations
advised), named after the film which was
made in the village. Nearby, an evening
restaurant, The Motte (056 775 8655),
offers a more formal dining experience by
arrangement for groups.
12
Inistioge is on the River Nore, but it is tidal
water, and the Barrow Navigation finishes
at the sea lock above ST. MULLINS.
A three kilometre stroll along the towpath
reaches St. Mullins, where the old grain
store (formerly used by the Grand Canal
company and then Odlums millers) has
been converted into holiday cottages, and
the Mullicháin Café (see entry).
A short but steep climb from the harbour
finds Blanchfield’s Pub (051 424134),
nestling amidst hills which are a whole
world away from Lowtown at the north end
of the Barrow Line.
11 Mullicháin Café,
The Old Grainstore, St Mullins,
Co Carlow
051 424 440 / 087 258 4663
EAT
“Great coffee, fantastic atmosphere and
chat to beat the band” are the promise at
the café in this fine restored grain house,
where owners Martin & Emer O’Brien
also offer “fresh scones with the morning
coffee and a read of the paper, smoked
salmon and a glass of wine for the
lunch…” All this and a good riverside walk
in a beautiful and tranquil setting. What
more could anyone ask for? Open TueSun 11-6, closed Mon except bank hols
(but then closes the following Tue).
Erne System
ERNE SYSTEM
Things to See & Do Along the Way
With its pretty island-studded UPPER
LOUGH and the open mountain-fringed
waters of the LOWER LOUGH - and
the large island town of ENNISKILLEN
providing urban contrast between them
- the Erne System is unique, offering
an exceptional range of experiences
on both water and land in one of the
most attractive and varied landscapes in
Ireland.
DEVENISH ISLAND MONASTIC SITE,
with a museum and round tower, dating
from the 6th century and easily accessible
by boat.
Visitor attractions include CULTURAL
experiences ranging from a visit to
ARDHOWEN THEATRE
(www.ardhowentheatre.com),
Enniskillen which offers a wide range of
entertainment (and has mooring facilities
at the door), to the SHEELIN IRISH LACE
MUSEUM (www.irishlacemuseum.com),
Bellanaleck, with almost 700 exhibits
dating between 1850-1900 and tea
rooms, to the world famous BELLEEK
POTTERY at Belleek
(028 6865 9300; www.belleek.ie)
established in 1857.
There is a wonderful choice of Great
Houses, Parks & Gardens to visit in
the area. The 18th century National
Trust properties, CASTLE COOLE and
FLORENCE COURT HOUSE, are both near
Enniskillen and have lovely walks in the
grounds. Near Florencecourt, MARBLE
ARCH CAVES EUROPEAN GEOPARK
(www.marblearchcavesgeopark.com)
are among Europe’s finest show-caves.
At the southern end of Upper Lough Erne,
a remarkable lakeside activity holiday
centre at Lisnaskea, THE SHARE CENTRE
provides opportunities for disabled and
non-disabled people to participate in
a wide range of programmes together.
Nearby CROM ESTATE, Newtownbutler,
is a beautifully wooded demesne, and
HILTON PARK, Clones (see entry) has
restored Victorian Gardens.
History abounds and, in Enniskillen,
ENNISKILLEN CASTLE is of special
interest; strategically important throughout
its history, the site now houses two
MUSEUMS. Nearby are Lough Erne’s
most important island monastery remains,
There is much to please food lovers
visiting the area and for those interested
in seeing how a farmhouse cheese is
made (or even learning how to make it)
CORLEGGY CHEESE FARM
(www.corleggycheeses.com) at
13
Milltown, near Belturbet, welcomes
visitors. Or you could improve your
cooking skills and learn about local foods
at the famous Belle Isle Cookery School
on the Belle Isle Estate
(www.belle-isle.com) at Lisbellaw, where
courses offered include one-day classes
and evening demonstrations.
Anyone with an interest in organic
gardening and sustainable living will
find it very rewarding to make a trip
to THE ORGANIC CENTRE (www.
theorganiccentre.ie), at Rossinver, Co
Leitrim. Demonstration gardens include
a heritage garden, children’s garden, a
herb garden, willow sculpture area, and
sunflower maze; there’s a great shop and
many ongoing activities and courses.
Fishing, watersports and boating are of
course key activities. Both loughs offer
excellent fishing and Cavan is one of
Ireland’s premier ANGLING locations,
with annual festivals held at Belturbet,
Cootehill, Killeshandra and Lough
Gowna. Watersports include SAILING,
WINDSURFING, WATER-SKIING, AND
WAKEBOARDING; CANOEING is especially
popular and The Lough Erne Canoe Trail
is well signposted. BOAT TRIPS and
CRUISER HIRE are offered from various
places including Enniskillen, Killadeas and
Lisnaskea.
14
But the wide range of outdoor activities to
enjoy in this exceptionally well endowed
area is not restricted to the water –
WALKING, CYCLING (the Kingfisher Cycle
Trail takes in this area), HORSERIDING,
GOLF (notably the fabulous Lough Erne
Golf Resort) and even FLYING (from
St Angelo Airport, Enniskillen) are
particularly enjoyable examples of the
many things there are to enjoy in the great
outdoors.
Key FESTIVALS and EVENTS around Lough
Erne celebrate the area’s diversity of
activities and include: the ENNISKILLEN
DRAMA FESTIVAL; the ERNE BOAT RALLY
and the WATERWAYS IRELAND CLASSIC
FISHING FESTIVAL and INTERNATIONAL
PIKE FISHING FESTIVAL.
operate in this area. For more details
on all attractions, activities and events
in the area visit Tourist Information
Offices, www.waterwaysireland.org or
www.discovernorthernireland.com
Erne System
ERNE SYSTEM
4
5
3
6
Rossinver
2
7 8
Place of interest
Cycle Hire
9
Dayboat Hire
Watersports
Cruiser/Barge Hire
1
10
11
Mooring
Boat Trips
Tourist Information
Office
ERNE SYSTEM:
(Clockwise from Belturbet)
The characters of the winding Erne
waterway’s upper and lower lakes are so
different that visitors could be forgiven
for thinking that they should be given two
completely different names. Upper Lough
Erne is a total intertwining of water and
land. Once you pass through Enniskillen,
which is itself on an island, Lower Lough
Erne at first seems similar, but soon it
opens into the wide spaces of the Broad
Lough overlooked by the spectacular Cliffs
of Magho, and its nature is markedly
different. However, islands are a feature
of both lakes, and there is an island
restaurant – at Lusty Beg on the Lower
Lough.
DERRYLIN: Set in grounds overlooking the
marina, Knockninny House (see entry) is
open to non-residents. Nearby, in Derrylin
village, there’s an exceptional wine shop,
The Crushed Grape (028 6774 1020),
formerly Blake’s Fine Wines, beside
Blake’s Bar and Restaurant at The Market
Place; tastings are frequently held.
15
1 Knockninny Country House
& Marina,
Knockinny Quay, Derrylin,
Co Fermanagh
028 6774 8590
EAT, DRINK & STAY
Billed as “Lough Erne’s original hotel”,
this attractive waterside property has
recently been renovated and upgraded. It
now offers an unusual place to stay and
a lovely venue for weddings and other
events), meals in an attractive dining room
overlooking the lough and drinks and light
food all day - to enjoy beside an open fire
on chilly days or out in the fresh air in fine
weather. Day boats available.
B&B from about £40pps. Bistro L & D
Wed-Sun Easter-Sep, light refreshments
all day.
BELLANALECK: A short walk from the
marina, The Sheelin Irish Lace Museum
(with tea room) (028 6634 8232) is a
pretty thatched cottage in the village.
There is also a restaurant, The Moorings,
at the marina; although closed at the time
of going to press it may re-open for the
summer.
16
2 Lough Erne Golf Resort,
Belleek Road, Enniskillen,
Co Fermanagh
028 6632 3230
EAT, DRINK & STAY
Just outside Enniskillen, on the west shore
of the Lower Lough, Lough Erne Golf
Resort is of international standards, with
two championship courses. The property
lies between two lakes on its own bridge
linked island, and has sweeping lakeland
views, a fitting venue for the 2013
G8 Summit. Head chef Noel McMeel
(known for his commitment to quality
local ingredients) offers fine dining in the
Catalina Restaurant, also good informal
food all day at the Loughside Clubhouse
Bar & Grill, notable for local meats. On
the 9th hole of the Faldo Course, ‘Halfway
House & Seafood Experience’ is open
10-6.30 daily in summer. Catalina:
D nightly, L Sun only; Blaney ‘Grazing
Menu’ 12-10 daily; Garden Hall Afternoon
Tea, 2-5 daily. Amex, MC, V.
For convenience, we continue with a
clockwise theme, but it can be a complex
business. On the Lower Lake, navigation
becomes more clearcut. As the expanse
of the Broad Lough opens out ahead,
there’s sheltered berthing at Tully Bay
or Tully Castle. Then it’s “open sea” to
Belleek, a friendly little town which has
been marvellously revived in recent years.
Erne System
BELLEEK is a hospitable place, a
fascinating Visitor Centre (and tea
rooms, where hot dishes are available at
lunchtime) at the world famous Belleek
Pottery (028 6865 8501) and several
great music pubs, including Moohans/The
Fiddlestone (028 6865 8008) a pub with
guesthouse on the main street,
where Gilmartins Irish Craft Shop
(028 6865 8371) is exceptionally friendly
and helpful.
3 The Thatch,
Belleek, Co Fermanagh
028 6865 8181
EAT
This 18th century listed building is the
only originally thatched village building
remaining in County Fermanagh.
Homemade food has been served here for
a century, a tradition upheld today, with
home-made soups, freshly made/toasted
sandwiches, hot specials and delicious
bakes like chocolate squares and muffins.
And you can buy fishing tackle, hire a bike
– or even a holiday cottage – here too.
Open Mon-Sat, 9-5. MC & V (on orders
over £10).
4 Lusty Beg Island,
Boa Island, Kesh, Co Fermanagh
028 6863 3300
EAT, DRINK & STAY
This unusual place is worth a visit, if only
to call into the pleasant waterside pub for
a drink and an informal bite like smoked
salmon and brown bread. Visiting boats
are welcome; phone ahead for details of
barbecues and other theme nights.
B&B and self-catering available;
conference & wedding venue.
Children welcome.
B&B from about £60pps. Summer:
bar food daily; music Saturday night.
Weekends: breakfast from 8.30, light bar
food 1-6, D 6-9. Carvery Sun L, booking
essential. Call to check food service,
especially off-season; reservations
recommended. MC, V, S.
The town of KESH has much to recommend
it, with a fine harbour development, a
welcoming hotel (see entry) and the
Mayfly Inn (028 6863 1281), on the main
street, for traditional music.
17
5 Lough Erne Hotel,
Kesh, Co Fermanagh
028 6863 1275
EAT, DRINK & STAY
This friendly hotel is attractively located
on the Glendurragh River and makes the
most of its setting. Wholesome fare,
helpful staff and good value make this a
relaxing stopping place and the view is
soothing. B&B £40pps. Breakfast 8-10;
L 12.30-3; Grill Menu Mon-Sat 5-8 (FriSun to 9). Light snacks available all day,
every day. Amex, MC, V, Delta, S, M.
CASTLE ARCHDALE has a harbour (and, in
summer, a tea room). The eastern shore of
the Lower Lough from Kesh to Enniskillen
could be called the Erne Riviera, as it’s a
beautiful south-facing lakeside with many
bays which offer a remarkable variety of
hospitable stopovers before you return to
the multiple choices of Enniskillen. Based
at Inishclare Harbour, KILLADEAS (where
there may be dining facilities in summer), the
cruiser Lady of the Lake (028 6862 2200)
is operated by the Manor House Hotel (see
entry); it has bar & catering facilities for 55
passengers and offers a lovely way to see
and hear about beautiful Lough Erne, with
sailings at weekends and selected dates.
18
6 Manor House Hotel & Restaurant,
Killadeas, Co Fermanagh
028 6862 2211
EAT, DRINK & STAY
Just a short walk up from the marina, this
period house makes a fine hotel. The
Belleek Restaurant is well situated to
take best advantage of the lovely lough
views and menus offer interesting choices;
both food and service here generally
match their rather grand surroundings,
while the Watergate Bar and Cellar Bar &
Bistro offer less formal options, including
Afternoon Tea. B&B from £74.50pps.
L & D 12.30-2.45 & 6.30-9.30 daily. Bar
meals 12.30-9.30 daily;
L & D à la carte. Amex, MC, V, S.
Thereafter, a return upstream towards the
Upper Lake brings fresh diversity along its
eastern shore.
ENNISKILLEN: This historic town, home
to the headquarters of Waterways Ireland,
has plenty to offer hungry visitors.
Perhaps the first call should be to the
famous O’Doherty’s Butchers
(028 6632 2152) in Belmore Street,
to buy their renowned black bacon and
other goodies to take back to the boat.
Nearby is the former Scoffs Restaurant,
now rebranded Uno (028 6634 2622)
and, near the Town Hall, you will find the
cheerful Dollakis Restaurant (see entry).
Erne System
Allow time to browse around in the
Buttermarket area - The Jolly Sandwich
(028 6632 2277) across the road from
Blakes serves deliciously wholesome
lunches and stocks tasty things for the
boat, and Rebecca’s (028 66329376) is
a consistently excellent coffee shop in the
Craft & Design Courtyard; down towards the
river on Queen Elizabeth Road, Franco’s
(028 6632 4424) was among Enniskillen’s
first contemporary restaurants, and remains
one of the most popular. An interesting
place to visit is the Clinton Centre at the
War Memorial, Belmore Street, and worth
considering for snacks and light lunches
is Marks & Spencer (028 6632 4649)
at Erneside SC: the lakeside location
is pleasant – glass sided café area,
water flowing by – and perhaps the best
cappuccino in town, too.
On the river near the Killyhevlin Hotel (see
entry), Ardhowen Theatre Restaurant
(028 6632 5254) provides a stunning
lunch-time waterside venue (Mon-Sat)
with pontoons directly adjacent, while
The Westville Hotel (028 6632 0333)
on Tempo Road offers stylish dining in
its Terrace Restaurant and contemporary
accommodation. If you fancy a round of
golf and/or some out of town dining, a visit
to the Lough Erne Golf Resort (see entry)
is in order – or, for a real gastronomic
treat, consider taking a cross-border taxi
to nearby Blacklion, where celebrated
chef Neven Maguire’s MacNean House &
Restaurant (071 985 3022) is a treat of
a place offering fine dining and overnight
accommodation.
7 Blakes of the Hollow & Café Merlot,
Church Street, Enniskillen,
Co Fermanagh
028 6632 2143
(Café Merlot 028 6632 0918)
EAT & DRINK
One of the great classic pubs of Ireland,
Blakes has been in the same family since
1887. While the old Victorian bar remains
unchanged (traditional music, Friday
nights), there are now two restaurants run
jointly by chef Gerry Russell and front-of
house/wine guru John Donnelly, winners of
our Taste of the Waterways Award 2010:
Café Merlot, for a stylish informal bite
(and Saturday jazz to 1am), and the
Restaurant @ No 6 upstairs, for weekend
fine dining (by reservation).
Cafe Merlot L & D daily, 12-3 (Sun 12.303.30) & (Fri & Sat 5.30-9.00) (Value D,
5.30-7.30). MC, V, L, S.
19
8 Dollakis Restaurant,
Cross Street, Enniskillen,
Co Fermanagh
028 6634 2616
EAT
This cheerfully cosmopolitan little
restaurant is run by an experienced team
of various nationalities, and it has found
a special niche. It has a pleasantly
contemporary airy feel, and music (think
Zorba the Greek) puts customers in a
light mood. Tightly packed tables are laid
bistro style, and simply worded menus
reflecting the national identities involved
offer something different for Enniskillen.
Expect tasty cooking, great service and
very good value too. L Tue-Sat, open 10“late” (L 12-4, D from 6); closed Sun &
Mon. MC, V, S.
20
9 Killyhevlin Hotel,
Killyhevlin, Enniskillen,
Co Fermanagh
028 6632 3481
EAT, DRINK & STAY
Just yards from the handy jetty and with
windows right along the main building
capitalising on wonderful lake and
mountain views, this spacious hotel has
excellent facilities and is a pleasing place
for land-based visitors to stay. Silks
restaurant offers formal dining (efficient
and attentive service is the trump card
here), but informal meals in the Boathouse
Bar & Grill may have more appeal for
boating folk, and there are comfy sofas
in the windows where you can have
coffee. B&B rate £77.50pps. Breakfast
from 7.30am lounge menu 10am-10pm
daily; business lunch/carvery, 12.303.30; Grill Menu, 5-9.00. Restaurant: D
6.30-9.30 daily; Sun L (carvery), 1-3.30.
Restaurant reservations advised. Amex,
D, MC, V.
Erne System
Situated on the scenic shores of Upper
Lough Erne, just outside the village
of Lisbellaw, the small family run
Carrybridge Hotel (028 6638 7148) is
renowned for its excellent boating and
marina facilities; it offers basic chalet
type accommodation and wholesome
unpretentious food with fish dishes the
speciality. The hotel has a reputation for
its hospitality, live music and good “craic”;
entertainment is offered throughout
the year, with live performances most
weekends.
The most easterly section of the Upper
Lough sees the intermingling of water
and land become ever more complex,
and in the midst of it Crom Castle makes
for a fascinating destination. The Ulster
Canal (originally to Lough Neagh) can still
be easily traced, and it is initially being
restored as far as Clones.
Clones
At the harbour, the Ulster Canal Stores
(047 52125) is a friendly spot with a
small café/refreshments and you can find
out about (and buy) the famed Clones
lace. The premises is also available as a
venue, with rooms suitable for meetings,
music, drama, readings etc (capacity 50100).
10 Hilton Park,
Clones, Co Monaghan
047 56007
EAT & STAY
Whether as a place to stay or to see the
restored Victorian Gardens (open to
the public by appointment), the Madden
family’s wonderful 18th century mansion
is a joy to visit. Johnny and Lucy Madden
have welcomed guests to their home for
over a quarter of a century, and are now
joined by the ninth generation of Maddens,
Fred and Joanna. With lakes, Pleasure
Grounds and a Lovers’ Walk to set the right
tone, the house is magnificent in every
sense. B&B from about d98pps (special
breaks offered, also group bookings/
events); residents’ 4-course D d55.
MC V, L.
21
GRAND CANAL:
Things To See & Do Along the Way
Constructed in the eighteenth century to
transport goods and passengers between
Dublin city centre and destinations
west of the capital, the main line of
the Grand Canal crosses large areas of
the bogland that is a unique feature of
the Irish midlands in order to reach the
River Shannon, and it is acknowledged
as one of Ireland’s greatest engineering
achievements. Now an important leisure
amenity for everyone to enjoy, the Grand
Canal is used by both privately owned
boats and hired cruisers and barges, and
also the many walkers, cyclists, anglers,
bird watchers and other wildlife lovers who
use the towpaths.
Boats arriving in Dublin along the
Grand Canal have easy access to the
attractions of the city centre, either
on foot or by public transport, notably
from the Charlemont Place Luas (tram)
station at the Hilton Hotel. Further
along, the canal terminates beyond the
WATERWAYS IRELAND VISITOR CENTRE
(01 677 7510) at the Grand Canal
Harbour, where the striking BORD GÁIS
ENERGY THEATRE (01 677 7999; www.
bordgaisenergytheatre.ie) takes pride
of place on Grand Canal Square with its
new Manuel Aires Mateus designed hotel,
The Marker (www.themarkerhoteldublin.
com; opens 2013) and many restaurants.
Any of Dublin’s many visitor attractions
are easily accessible from here - the
nautically minded may well want to begin
with the JEANIE JOHNSTON TALL SHIP
FAMINE MUSEUM (01 473 0111),
which is moored permanently on Custom
22
House Quay, on the River Liffey. The most
popular attractions of general interest are
the GUINNESS STOREHOUSE
(01 408 4800) at St James’s Gate,
Dublin 8 and, across the river, the OLD
JAMESON DISTILLERY (01 807 2355;
www.tours.jamesonwhiskey.com). In the
same general area NATIONAL MUSEUM
OF IRELAND at Collins Barracks on Wolfe
Tone Quay (01-677 7444;
www.museum.ie; closed Mon) houses
Arts & History exhibits including Erskine
Childers’ historic yacht, ‘Asgard’, and,
like Kildare Street (Archaeology) and
Merrion Street (Natural History) museums,
admission is free. More unusual
attractions include NUMBER TWENTY
NINE, GEORGIAN HOUSE MUSEUM
(01 702 6165; www.esb.ie/no29) on
Lower Fitzwilliam Street, off Merrion
Square, and the city’s newest and
most original museum, the LITTLE
MUSEUM OF DUBLIN (01 661 100; www.
littlemuseum.ie), an intimate first floor
collection on St. Stephen’s Green North,
near the corner of Dawson Street, that
charts the story of Ireland’s capital city
in the 20th Century. If travelling with
children, DUBLINIA (01 679 4611;
www.dublinia.ie) adjoining Christ Church
Cathedral is good for families – and so are
the VIKING SPLASH TOURS
(01 707 6000; www.vikingsplash.ie) an
amphibious sightseeing tour that’s fun for
all ages and departs from St Stephen’s
Green North.
Heading out of the city, there is always
plenty to see and do, perhaps beginning
Grand Canal
with a visit to Ireland’s most sumptuous
palladian style mansion CASTLETOWN
HOUSE (01 628 8252;
www.castletown.ie; closed Mon except
bank hols) at Celbridge – not far from
Lyons Demesne (see entry) at the 13th
Lock.
Along the quieter stretches of the canal
there is an abundance of WILDLIFE to
watch – herons, kingfishers and even
otters may be observed – and the
towpath provides for good WALKING at
any time. THE GRAND CANAL WAY (a
National Waymarked Way), runs the entire
length of the main canal from Dublin to
Shannon Harbour and allows access to
bogland in some areas; although widely
misunderstood until recently, there is a
new appreciation of the importance of
bogland and its special ecology and this is
a unique area of interest for nature-loving
visitors.
Some stretches of the canal have been
carefully stocked to provide excellent
fisheries and FISHING stands are a feature
along the banks, with some specially
designed for wheelchair use.
Although the Kilbeggan Branch is closed
so the village is no longer accessible by
water, The Westmeath Way walking route
stretches from Kilbeggan to Mullingar
(approximately 33 kilometres/21 miles),
and includes quiet canal towpath sections
and paths through riverside meadows as
well as some woodland and road sections.
The old Locke’s Distillery has recently
been restored and is now open to the
public; the KILBEGGAN DISTILLERY
EXPERIENCE (057 933 2134;
www.kilbeggandistillery.com) is well
worth a visit – especially if you can time
it to coincide with an evening at ‘the
very Irish experience’ that is KILBEGGAN
RACES (www.kilbegganraces.com).
When heading west, a stop at Tullamore
offers a change of pace after the long bog
crossing, with plenty to do around the
town - try to allow time to visit the new
TULLAMORE DEW HERITAGE CENTRE
(01 645 4500; www.tullamoredew.
com),which is right on the canal. It is also
a good area for EQUESTRIAN activities,
with equestrian centres and schools to be
found in Tullamore and in Killeagh (outside
Tullamore), notably at the highly regarded
ANNAHARVEY FARM AND EQUESTRIAN
CENTRE (see entry) where a tempting
midweek outing might be a 2-hour riding
and lunch.
West of Tullamore, near Pollagh, the
LOUGH BOORA PARKLANDS
(www.loughbooraparklands.com) are
owned by Bord na Mona (the Irish Peat
Board); one of Ireland’s oldest cutaway
bogs, it is now undergoing gradual
natural re-colonisation and providing a
new habitat for wildlife, flora and fauna.
Covering a huge area, with 50km of
walkways, natural & manmade lakes,
wetlands, woodland areas, and renewed
pastureland, this wildlife sanctuary is a
wonderful amenity.
At Belmont, Co Offaly, BELMONT
WATERMILL MUSEUM & STUDIOS
(www.belmontmill.com) won the
Industrial Heritage Association of Ireland’s
Best Site/Museum Award in 2008 and this
restored 1769 watermill is well worth a
visit; there is much of interest at the mill
itself and the converted stables are now
used as artists’ studios.
discoverireland.com
23
THE GRAND CANAL
10
1-9 in Dublin
14
11
15
12
16
13
Place of interest
Cycle Hire
Dayboat Hire
Watersports
Cruiser/Barge Hire
Mooring
Boat Trips
Tourist Information
Office
THE GRAND CANAL:
In 1791, the earliest functioning sections
of the Grand Canal were operational
from James’s Street Harbour beside
Guinness’s Brewery in Dublin, to Athy in
County Kildare on the River Barrow. The
longterm plan, however, had always been
to connect to the Shannon in the west
from the River Liffey and the Port of Dublin
to the east.
Today, we certainly think of the Grand
Canal as being the waterway linking
Ringsend on the shores of Dublin Bay
along 131 kilometres to Shannon Harbour
near Banagher in County Offaly, on a route
which has been operational since 1804.
And we think of the Barrow Line, which
“leaves” the Grand Canal at Lowtown, as
being part of the Barrow Navigation.
24
Almost lost in the passage of time is
the thought that this branch line was
once – albeit briefly – the main waterway,
while the former terminus in Dublin
has disappeared as a harbour, as has
its little connecting canal, which now
accommodates the Luas light railway.
The main harbour nowadays is the Grand
Canal Basin, first stop after coming in
through the sea lock from the River
Liffey at Ringsend. With new hotels,
office blocks, apartment buildings,
quayside cafés, bars, restaurants and the
spectacular Liebeskind-designed Bord
Gáis Energy Theatre, this is a transformed
neighbourhood, as likely to be filled by
gatherings of seagoing vessels as canal
cruisers.
Grand Canal
For contemporary Dubliners, the Grand
Canal is essentially the elegant waterway
which curves around the south of the inner
city, integral to the Georgian architecture
and marking the boundary between the
elite postal districts of Dublin 2 and
Dublin 4. That this section of the canal
was an add-on conceived in the 1790s is
neither here nor there. It was opened with
a spectacular party in 1796, and as far as
Dubliners are concerned, this is the Grand
Canal. It’s the rest of the waterway which
is an add-on…
This may be a cavalier approach to the
history of Ireland’s inland waterways. But
for visiting boat folk, it does mean that
the “new” section, between Ringsend and
Inchicore, is city cruising at its best. The
hospitality lineup is almost bewildering
in its variety – it’s said there is a pub at
or near every bridge. We list a range
of special establishments, while always
remembering that, after a surfeit of city
pleasures, boat people will soon yearn for
open spaces.
A Taste of Canalside Dublin
Visitors arriving into Dublin by boat have
many interesting shopping and dining
experiences to look forward to within a
gentle stroll of one of the landing stages
dotted along the canal. Starting right at
the beginning of the canal, the Grand
Canal Harbour area is very well
supplied with good food, with some of
the best located establishments including
Herb Street, Ely Gastro Pub, Milano
(01 679 9579), noted for its familyfriendliness, trendy Café Bar H
(01 899 2216) and the lovely Il Valentino
Continental Bakery (01 633 1100), on
the corner where the Grand Canal Quay
meets Pearse Street. Across the harbour,
you’ll see Ocean Bar & Restaurant
(01 668 8862) with its own pontoons on
Charlotte Quay; although not as obvious,
Bridge Bar & Grill is very handy too – and,
along with Art of Coffee (086 100 3684),
is closest to the Waterways Ireland Visitor
Centre on Grand Canal Quay (open to
the public Wed-Sun, 10-6, seasonal only
Mar-Sept).
Beside the lock at Mount Street Bridge is
The Schoolhouse Hotel, and at Baggot
Street Bridge you’ll spot another branch
of the family-friendly restaurants, Milano
(01 667 8600). Further along, you could
easily pass by the almost canalside Canal
Bank Café (01 664 2135), but the Hilton
Hotel is very obvious and exceptionally
conveniently located for the boating visitor;
here, moored under the Charlemont Place
Luas station, lies MV Riasc
(087 677 8140), a customised barge
offering visitors a pleasant and relaxing
canal trip, with the bonus of dinner cruises
in the evening. Equally convenient to the
canal are the popular Barge Inn
(01 475 1869) and also, beyond
it, Locks. (See entries below for all
establishments previously highlighted but
without phone numbers).
But there are far too many places of
interest for us to list them all here – the
pleasant Mespil Hotel (01 488 4600), for
example, is handy to berthing (opposite
side from the Hilton) and offers lunch
and dinner at its Glaze Restaurant. There
are also some gems just a few minutes
from the canal. At PORTOBELLO, for
example there are some treats, including
the popular smart-casual daytime Lennox
Café Bistro and Bretzel Bakery
(01 475 2742), where you can stock the
boat up with speciality breads – both are
on Lennox Street, near Portobello Bridge,
and nearby Seagrass Restaurant
(01 478 9595) on Richmond Street is
also very close to the bridge.
25
1 Herb Street,
Hanover Quay, Grand Canal Dock,
Dublin 2
01 675 3875
2 Ely Gastro-Pub,
Hanover Quay, Dublin 2
01 633 9986
EAT
This deceptively spacious Dublin
restaurant has been quietly doing its
own thing since first opened by partners
Siobhan Mullen and Vinnie Murphy (head
chef and front of house respectively) well
before the completion of Grand Canal
Square. Now flanked by the 2,000-seater
Bord Gáis Energy Theatre on one side and
a Manuel Aires Mateus designed hotel,
The Marker on the other, they do their
own bit for design too – note the vintage
1950s chairs and eco-friendly lighting and offer a pleasingly quirky menu too, in
a casual café style. Open daily, B Mon-Fri
8.30-11.30, L Mon-Fri 12-4, Brunch SatSun 10am-4pm, D Wed-Sat 4-7.30pm.
Closed D Sun-Wed. All cards accepted.
26
EAT & DRINK
Although it still says Ely HQ above the
door this, the third of Erik and Michelle
Robson’s stylish establishments, is
officially Ely Gastro-Pub. It has large
eating areas on two levels, a covered and
heated terrace, huge windows overlooking
the Grand Canal Basin, and a youthful
atmosphere. Expect the trademark great
wine list (with exceptional by-the-glass
choices), cocktails, a wide range of beers
and ingredients-led menus with a ‘green’
bias, including produce from the family’s
organic farm in Co Clare. Open L MonSun, 12-4; D Mon-Sun 5-11; Bar Menu
Mon-Sun 5-11. MC, V, Amex, Diners.
Grand Canal
3 Bridge Bar & Bistro,
The Malting Tower,
Grand Canal Quay, Dublin 2
01 639 4941
EAT & DRINK
Despite its unlikely location under a
railway arch (albeit very handy to the
Canal – and the Waterways Ireland
Visitor Centre) and its pared down
simplicity, this is a smart restaurant and
bar serving creative dishes based on
quality ingredients and with real flavour
– impossible not to like, good value, and
served in stylishly informal surroundings.
Open Mon-Fri, 12-3 & 5-10; Sat 5-10.
MC, V, Amex, L.
4 The Schoolhouse Hotel,
Northumberland Road,
Ballsbridge, Dublin 4
01 667 5014
EAT, DRINK & STAY
This attractive canalside hotel offers
appealing accommodation and both the
bar and restaurant are very popular with
locals, so you can usually be sure of a
good buzz. Tasty bar food is available all
day, with more formal meals offered in the
restaurant at lunchtime on weekdays and
from early evening daily. Restaurant: L
Mon-Fri, 12-2.15, D 5-10 daily. Bar food
12-10 daily; brunch Sat & Sun 12-2.
MC, V, Amex, Diners.
27
5 La Péniche,
Mespil Road, Dublin 4
087 790 0077
EAT
exceptionally conveniently located, making
a very handy meeting place. The Uisce
restaurant overlooks the Grand Canal and oysters and Guinness in the bar could
be appealing if you want to watch a match
on the big-screen TVs. B&B from about
€65pps. L & D daily. Amex, MC, V.
7 Seagrass,
30 South Richmond Street,
Portobello Bridge, Dublin 2
01 478 9595
Enjoy a full 2/3 course dinner on this
smartly got up floating restaurant (red
velvet couches, gleaming varnished
tables) offering Dublin’s only canal dining
experience. The unusual setting and
friendly, helpful service make for a great
atmosphere; dining is even more fun,
eaten under way on the occasions when
La Péniche cruises the canal. L & D daily,
various options for individuals and groups,
including exclusive hire. Reservations
recommended. MC, V, L.
6 Hilton Dublin Hotel,
Charlemont Place, Dublin 2
01 402 9988
EAT, DRINK & STAY
Right beside berthing – and a Luas station
to take you straight into the city centre if
you like – this attractive modern hotel is
28
EAT
The smart green awning above a few
pavement tables sets Seagrass apart
from neighbouring restaurants - it looks
stylish and serious about food, and one
step indoors confirms these impressions.
Prompt and friendly service sets the
tone for delicious creations prepared
by chef-proprietor Séan Drugan – who
spends many hours each week personally
sourcing the freshest possible, mainly
local, ingredients. Vegetarians are well
catered for and Seagrass offers real value,
including great lunch and early bird deals.
Open from 12noon Tue-Sat, L 12-3 (Sat
& Sun to 5), D 5-10 (Sun to 8), Brunch
Sat & Sun 12-4. Amex, MC, V, L.
Grand Canal
8 Lennox Café Bistro,
Lennox Street,
Portobello, Dublin 8
01 478 9966
9 Locks Brasserie
Number 1, Windsor Terrace,
Dublin 8
01 420 0555
EAT
EAT
This appealing all-day neighbourhood
restaurant in a quiet location near
Portobello Bridge has a few tables
outside for fine weather, and is popular
with discerning locals for its relaxed
atmosphere, good food (traditional with a
contemporary twist), fair prices and smart
interior. Weekend brunch is a speciality.
Open daily, 9.30am-5.30pm. All major
cards accepted.
The team behind this elegant spot
are Sebastien Masi and Kirsten Batt,
whose excellent Pearl Brasserie off
Merrion Square is one of Dublin’s finest
restaurants. Menus are admirably
concise and classic French dishes are
given modern treatment, resulting in luxe
brasserie dining. A lunch and early bird
menu offer good value and, while the
bill for à la carte dining can add up, you
can expect a great meal in this gorgeous
brasserie. Open daily: Mon-Wed from
5pm-“late”, Thu-Sun, 12.30-“late”.
L & early D d25, also à la carte.
MC, V, Amex, Diners, L.
Heading Out of the City...
Reaching the countryside will take time.
Negotiating your way through Dublin’s
many locks is an art in itself. Facilities will
improve at CityWest, but nevertheless it’s
a relief to get through the motorway bridge
and find there’s a breathing space at
Clondalkin. But the city still intrudes, and
most crews will plan, before nightfall, to
continue past the 12th Lock (it’s actually
the 21st since the Grand Canal Basin in
Ringsend) and reach the haven which is
HAZELHATCH, where The Hatch pub (see
entry) is rightly cherished by boat folk.
29
10 McEvoy’s/The Hatch,
Hazelhatch, Co Kildare
01 628 8283
DRINK
This delightfully friendly pub is full of
character, with all the little signs of a
much-loved local. There’s a snug front
bar gleaming with well-maintained wood
and notices about local activities, behind
it a larger bar more recently added, with a
warming stove to gather round. The whole
place is spick & span and it’s a pleasure
to visit – don’t expect food, though, except
maybe crisps and nuts....From 12.30
‘most days’. Open all year.
Although the tentacles of Greater Dublin
spread wide, it is pleasantly surprising how
rural much of the Grand Canal can soon
become. From Hazelhatch onwards, you’re
in the county of Kildare, synonymous with
fine farms and thoroughbred horses, with
the canalside Village at Lyons providing a
pleasant stop and a taste of the good life.
Here, in addition to fine dining at La Serre
Restaurant (see entry), there is a Cookery
School and the Canal Café (Wed & Thu 115, Fri-Sun & bank hol Mons 11-6; Pizza Night
Fri 6-8, children welcome booking essential.
Closed Mon & Tue). There are some retail
outlets (Wed-Sun) in the surrounding
buildings. The “village” also offers luxurious
accommodation (from about d120pps).
30
11 La Serre Restaurant,
Lyons Demesne, Celbridge,
Co Kildare
01 630 3500
EAT, DRINK & STAY
Beautifully situated alongside the Grand
Canal, with the entrance - guarded by stone
lions - just beside the 13th Lock, arrival at
Lyons Demesne is impressive, with statuary,
box balls, a little bridge over a mill race
and a massive front door leading into The
Lyons Den bar. Beyond, the restaurant is
in a courtyard area and an elegant Turnerstyle conservatory, where stylish dining is
offered in a bright space alongside maturing
gardens. L & D Wed-Sat, 12-3 & 6-9.30 in
summer (Fri & Sat only in winter); Sun &
bank hol Mon 12-5; reservations/call to
check opening advisable. Closed Mon-Thu
off season. Amex, MC, V, L.
SALLINS is the next port of call, with
sustenance offered at both Flanagans Mill
(045 880795) and the Bridgewater Inn
(see entry), which is ideally located on the
quay in the heart of this canal village. Also
worth considering is a short taxi ride to the
bustling nearby town of Clane, where the
excellent Zest Café & Restaurant
(045 893222) offers delicious daytime fare
and evening meals every day; the address
(Clane Shopping Centre) may be a bit
off-putting but it’s well-located, just off the
main street and well worth seeking out.
Grand Canal
12 Bridgewater Inn,
Sallins, Co Kildare
045 880681
EAT & DRINK
This smartly maintained quay-side
establishment is an appealing place, with
a warm and friendly atmosphere in the
bar, where wholesome fare is served.
Sweet Guinness bread is a speciality,
served with home made soup or, perhaps,
haddock smokies; expect weekday dishes
like pasta, burgers, pan-fried chicken and
scampi, while more extensive weekend
menus may include crab claws, spicy
satay and Bridgewater bangers & mash
with onion gravy. Bar Meals: MonFri, 12.30-9; Sat 1-9 & Sun, 1-8.30.
80-seater restaurant upstairs, available
for groups. A small conservatory area
on the ground floor can also be reserved.
MC, V, L.
A kilometre beyond Sallins Bridge, the
NAAS LINE offers a return to urban
amenities, its four southward-bound
kilometres bringing a boat through five
locks to the harbour in Naas town. The
choice of eating places near the harbour
includes Vie de Chateaux (see entry) and
Tenors Grill Room (045 881595), offering
quality casual dining and great value
while, for lovers of Asian cooking, the
reliable Indie Spice (045 883660) offers
stylish and authentic Indian cuisine. At
the other end of the main street (behind
Lawlors Hotel), the Kildare Farmers
Market is held 10-3 on Saturday in the
carpark of the smart and atmospheric
TRAX Brasserie (045 889333) D daily
from 5pm, L Sun only 12.30-2.45, an
attractive stone-built restaurant in Friary
Lane. En route along the main street,
make a point of dropping in to one of
Ireland’s finest unspoilt old pubs,
Thomas Fletcher (045 897328) if they
are open – it’s not a morning place.
13 Vie de Chateaux,
The Harbour, Naas, Co Kildare
045 888478
EAT
Right beside the harbour, this small
French restaurant and wine bar has simple
décor and tightly packed tables, a warm
atmosphere and a big blackboard menu
offering unusual dishes that you won’t find
elsewhere. Lunch menus include tempting
‘big plates’ (starter and main course
served together) and you’ll find good local
meats such as Haynestown rib eye steak
(classically garnished with “maitre d’hotel”
butter and served with French fries and
lamb’s lettuce, perhaps). Tasty food, friendly
service and good value. L Wed-Fri 12-2.30,
D Tue-Sat 6-10, all day Sun 1-9pm.
31
On the MAIN LINE, progress continues
onwards across the Leinster Aqueduct over
the River Liffey (last glimpsed in Ringsend),
and upwards through three more locks.
And then suddenly, or so it seems, with
the canal about three kilometres down the
road from the expanding Quaker-named
village of Prosperous in County Kildare,
you’ve reached the heights. The next lock
is descending. The Summit Level is just 40
kilometres from Dublin Bay, but 29 locks
have been negotiated. The mood changes.
The atmosphere is of the west. We cruise
along in relaxed style, and ROBERTSTOWN,
the hub of the Grand Canal system, is easily
reached.
Here, the visible history of the inland
waterways intertwines with the developing
reality of modern Irish life. Robertstown is
of the country, of the west and of the past
– but only just, with Dublin so near by road.
On the quay Charlie Weld’s pub
(045 860261) dates from 1850; with its
turf fires and music (Thu & Sat), this fourthgeneration pub is a gem. Just along the quay
towards the imposing building which was
once the old Canal Hotel, Mullaney’s
(045 860808) is a bar with grocery
and, quietly set back from the quay, Ann
Dowling’s bar (045 860299) is a real
haven.
Westward from Robertstown, the main canal
crosses the Bog of Allen, a magical and
mysterious place. After ALLENWOOD, where
Glennon’s bar (045 860110) is the last
oasis, there are no facilities for
12 kilometres, until Edenderry in County
Offaly. The EDENDERRY BRANCH opens up
to starboard through Downshire Bridge, and
it brings us – after 1.5 km – to a delightful
canal harbour where Mary O’Connor’s
Harbour House (046 977 3583) is
in classic style, and offers the unusual
experience of being able to look up at your
boat berthed across the road in Edenderry
32
Harbour, while the smartly presented Byrne’s
further up the street is the town hub. You
will find an inviting Indian café & restaurant
Mirchi (046 977 3800) L & D daily on
Dublin Road near the town’s supermarkets,
and Eden Deli (see entry) offers wholesome
daytime fare.
14 Eden Deli,
JKL Street, Edenderry, Co Offaly
046 973 3994
EAT
Niall & Niamh Walsh’s smart two-storey deli
and café near the harbour is known for its
good wholesome fare and there are no short
cuts taken – they bake their breads freshly
every morning using organic flour, make all
their own stocks and support local producers
(Rudd’s pork products, for example, are from
Birr). They promise ‘breakfast, lunch, cakes
& treats’ and, with lunch specials at around
€6.50, it’s great value too. Open Mon-Sat
8.30-5.30. No credit cards.
From Edenderry Harbour to the next
port, DAINGEAN, is nearly 20 non-stop
kilometres, unless you berth at Rhode Bridge
on the way, and walk the 2 km to the village.
RHODE has three pubs – Doyle’s, Killeen’s
and Mulvin’s. The largest is Killeen’s – The
Village Pub (046 973 7017) – where they
do light food. Daingean itself was of strategic
importance in more turbulent times, and
there’s much of historic interest at this tidy
canal township, and characterful adjacent
pubs include The Grove, and Seery’s.
Grand Canal
Five kilometres beyond Daingean, we arrive
at the attractively-named Chenevix Bridge,
and tiny BALLYCOMMON beside it. Just
beyond, the currently defunct Kilbeggan
Branch of the canal swings away to the
northwest. Meanwhile at Ballycommon, the
hub of the sailor’s universe is Ballycommon
House, Gerry & Maria McGrath’s pub
(057 935 3016) right on the canal, a
classic – and you can buy free-range eggs
there.
From an extremely rural area, the Grand
Canal is now approaching TULLAMORE, a
busy commercial town. With the revival of
the waterways, its harbour will in time be
re-vamped as the increasing fleets of boats
visiting for canal-related gatherings have
underlined Tullamore’s potential as a popular
waterways port. With a berth secured, the
newly arrived boat folk find all their needs
met nearby. This thriving town is perhaps
best known for its most famous product,
Tullamore Dew; there is much of interest in
the canalside Tullamore Dew Visitor Centre,
which has recently been redeveloped.
Well established restaurants popular with
locals include those at two hotels Bridge
House Hotel (057 932 5600) and
Tullamore Court Hotel (see entry). On
Harbour Street, The Blue Apron
(057 936 0106; D Wed-Sat from 5.30)
is a stylish new arrival that is going down
well with local foodies, and The Wolftrap
(057 932 3374 / 5), an attractive pub just
along on William Street, continues to please
(meals; traditional music Tue nights).
On Main Street the well-established
Jamie’s (057 935 1529; D Wed-Sat &
L Sun) now has the smart Café Q
(057 932 6782) across the road, offering
appealing daytime fare and, nearby on
Patrick Street, the welcoming and familyfriendly Italian restaurant Sirocco’s
(057 935 2839) offers good food and
value for money. Meanwhile lovers of spicy
food can head up to High Street, where,
behind the apparently traditional façade of
Loughreys pub, there is a surprise: not only a
smart modern bar – but also, at the back of
the pub, the stylish Bang Thai @ Loughrey’s
(057 9321063 / 9321699), which has
become one of the town’s most popular
restaurants.
Food shops in the town include two good
bakeries, Quigleys on Patrick Street,
which is one of a small chain of bakeries
in the area and has a café, and Cathal
O’Donohghue Craft Bakery (Kilcruttin
Centre; 057 932 1411).
15 The Tullamore Court Hotel,
O’Moore Street, Tullamore,
Co Offaly
057 934 6666
EAT, DRINK & STAY
This large modern four-star hotel is
welcoming, with an extensive foyer, and
bright and cheerful public areas. Very
much the hub of local activities, it serves
the community well, with an excellent
leisure centre and fine business facilities
- and makes a good meeting place within
easy walking distance of the whole town.
The staff are exceptionally friendly and
helpful, and the food is generally above
the standard expected in hotels. Open all
year except Christmas; B&B from about
d40pps; food available daily. MC, V, L.
33
16 Annaharvey Farm &
Equestrian Centre,
near Tullamore, Co Offaly
057 934 3544
EAT & STAY
With open fires, comfortable
accommodation and delicious home
cooking, Henry and Lynda Deverell’s
restored grain barn near Tullamore
provides a good base for a holiday
offering all the pleasures of the outdoor
life. Equestrian activities are the main
attraction (including tuition in indoor and
outdoor arenas), but walking, cycling
and golfing also lay their claims - and,
for the rest days, major sights including
Clonmacnoise and Birr Castle are nearby.
B&B about d45pps. Dinner available for
residents only. Closed Dec-Jan. MC, V, L.
Westward from Tullamore harbour, we
have 35 kilometres and 10 locks before
the Shannon is sighted. Much of it is
across territory where the peat industry
was predominant, leaving scenery which
can be something of an acquired taste.
The settlements along the canal tend to
be workaday places, and the two pubs
along the canal – The Thatch (which is
no longer thatched) at CORCORAN’S
BRIDGE, and Gallagher’s at POLLAGH
– are aimed very much at local trade
rather than canal traffic, though Pollagh
34
is growing in popularity as a boat base
and you will find a post office and shop at
Devery’s.
From time to time, however, the scenery
becomes lighter, and one of the prettiest
places – it’s 28 kilometres from Tullamore
– is BELMONT. A lovely place to stop for
a night or two, enchanting on summer
evenings, with daytime interest at the
award-winning Belmont Watermill
Museum & Studios
(086 607 8925) nearby. And just up the
road, one kilometre’s stroll away, is the
crossroads with two pubs; Kelly’s which is
total pub, while Cahill’s (090 645 7202)
is the classic country conglomerate with
pub, lounge, general store, post office and
service station.
Belmont provides a breathing space before
the final five kilometres past FERBANE
(in Hennessy’s pub there, they’ll give the
news on local life, but the short walk from
the canal is along a dangerous bit of road)
to crowded SHANNON HARBOUR, now
enjoying a new lease of life after a major
restoration. It’s crowded not with people,
but with boats. And the talk is almost
always of boats – you can enjoy the best
of it in its pubs, the Canal Bar and the
legendary McIntyre’s (057 915 1493;
serves wholesome fare), perhaps while
staying at the delightful Harbour Masters
House (057 915 1532; see entry in
Mid-Shannon Area). And then, the lordly
Shannon beckons, a long way indeed from
Ringsend in Dublin.
Lough Neagh & Lower Bann Navigation
LOUGH NEAGH &
LOWER BANN NAVIGATION:
LOUGH NEAGH is the largest lake in
Britain and Ireland and, although it is not
within Waterways Ireland’s remit, we have
included it in this guide in response to
requests from Waterways Ireland users of
the Lower Bann, which is a canalised river
that flows from the lough to the Atlantic
coast and the sea.
Lough Neagh is a haven for wildlife, with
many viewpoints around the shoreline
and, as its eastern shore is convenient to
Belfast and its international airport, this
surprisingly quiet and unspoilt place can
be a haven for city folk too. For WALKERS
and CYCLISTS, the LOUGHSHORE TRAIL
offers nearly 200km of well signed paths
around the lough, and there are many
attractions and activities for people
arriving by boat and from the land.
Discover Lough Neagh
(www.discoverloughneagh.com) is a mine
of information, but if the visitor had to
choose just one visit it would have to be
the NATIONAL NATURE RESERVE and
the LOUGH NEAGH DISCOVERY CENTRE
at OXFORD ISLAND (028 3832 2205;
www.oxfordisland.com); with all-year
walks and nature trails, bird watching
hides, and family facilities the reserve
really enables people to get close to
nature, and the Discovery Centre is also
an excellent destination for educational
visits, group visits and conferences.
ATTRACTIONS include the National Trust
property on the River Blackwater,
THE ARGORY (028 8778 4753;
www.nationaltrust.org.uk; opening
times vary), a wonderful wooded riverside
estate and 19th century neo-classical
house.
Nearby a short distance south-west of
Lough Neagh, visitors interested in ARTS &
CRAFTS will enjoy the village of BENBURB
(www.benburb.com) which has earned
recognition as a centre for Arts, Craft &
Design.
The Lower Bann is very popular with
WATERSPORTS enthusiasts of all kinds
with activities including WATERSKIING, JET
SKIING (at Newferry) and POWER BOATING
as well as gentler pastimes like ROWING,
CANOEING, ANGLING and CRUISING.
While this may sound like a recipe for
disaster, there is a well organised zoning
system in place, which enables everyone
to pursue their chosen sport safely and
without annoyance to others. Angling
opportunities include competitive coarse
fishing, and game fishing is becoming very
popular. Canoeing is a lovely way to see
the river and the 58km Lower Bann Canoe
Trail (www.canoeni.com), which is suitable
for all levels of ability, begins at Toome
and eventually reaches the Atlantic Ocean
beyond Coleraine.
35
Then there is the NORTH ANTRIM COAST;
its numerous attractions include several
championship golf courses – notably the
ROYAL PORTRUSH GC, host of the 2012
Irish Open; the BUSHMILLS DISTILLERY
(028 2073 1521; www.bushmills.com),
the world’s oldest continuously working
distillery; and, of course, the nearby
GIANT’S CAUSEWAY (028 2073 1855;
www.nationaltrust.org.uk) which is
Northern Ireland’s only UNESCO World
Heritage site and boasts a new Visitor
Centre. The GIANT’S CAUSEWAY AND
BUSHMILLS STEAM RAILWAY
(028 2073 2844) offers a novel
alternative way to arrive at this iconic
destination.
But there is another giant’s presence in
the Lower Bann region, and it is that of
SEAMUS HEANEY, the poet described as
‘Ireland’s most internationally significant
poet since WB Yeats’ who was born
on a farm between Castledawson and
Toomebridge. The area has become a
place of pilgrimage for poetry lovers and
a visit to BELLAGHY BAWN (028 7938
6812; www.ehsni.gov.uk/bellaghy)
near Magherafelt is a highlight; the
bawn and village date back to the
early 17th century and are of historical
significance – but it is the exhibitions on
poetry by local Nobel Laureate, Seamus
Heaney and other contemporary Irish
WRITERS, and also local NATURAL
HISTORY, that attract a wider audience.
Heaney connections are to be found
everywhere in this area but some of the
most meaningful are at Laurel Villa in
Magherafelt (see entry); you do not have
to be a follower of Heaney, or even a
poetry lover, to stay there - but it certainly
helps.
36
Further south, on the western shore of
Lough Neagh, the 10th century ARDBOE
HIGH CROSS is one of Ulster’s finest
examples of the Irish High Cross; standing
about 18 feet high, it is marks the
location of an abbey established here by
St Colman in the sixth century.
www.discovernorthernireland.com
LOUGH NEAGH & LOWER BANN
LOUGH NEAGH &
LOWER BANN:
Lough Neagh (Clockwise from Kinnego)
Lough Neagh is very much its own
place. It is so extensive at 390 square
kilometres that wind direction and
barometric pressure can locally affect
the water level. Much of its shoreline is
lowlying – albeit with handsome hills in the
distance – so traditional eyeball navigation
is not always easy. In times past, when
this inland sea was the hub of Ulster’s
waterways system with connections to
Belfast, Newry, Coleraine, Coalisland, the
Erne and the Shannon, the Lough Neagh
boatmen would often have to find their
way “by guess and by God” if they lacked
a compass.
8
Aghadowey
7
5
Upperlands
6
Magherafelt
4
Ardboe
2
3
Lurgan
1
Place of interest
Cycle Hire
Dayboat Hire
Watersports
Cruiser/Barge Hire
Mooring
Boat Trips
Tourist Information
Office
Glenavy
Today, the advent of GPS makes this vast
body of water much more user-friendly to
recreational boating. But Lough Neagh
remains determinedly workaday, which is
part of its attraction. It is associated with
two long-established industries - sand
dredging and eel fishing, which dates
from time immemorial, yet is very much of
today with Lough Neagh Eel gaining official
European recognition as a distinctive local
product.
The lough is popular with wildfowlers
and anglers, and motorcruiser and
sailboat numbers are on the increase.
The sand dredging barges – there are
around sixteen in all, and the larger
ones are virtually small ships – move at
their own steady pace. They’re worked
hard and, when fully laden, the decks
are level with the water, making them
slow to manoeuvre. Sand is dredged
all year round, but there is more than
enough room for everyone. While trade is
37
quieter at weekends, cruisers need to be
considerate of the working vessels’ needs.
Although the provision of berthing and
other facilities for recreational boating is
on the increase, with marinas at Antrim,
Sandy Bay, Kinnego and Ballyronan, in
some parts of the lough the only harbours
are primarily for commercial boats, so it
is good manners to request permission to
berth. The principal recreational boating
area is around Kinnego Bay in Lough
Neagh’s southeast corner, so we take our
review of the entire lake clockwise from
this excellent focal point. Navigation of the
lough requires a chart, and also essential
is the River Bann and Lough Neagh Pilot
by Michael B Savage, whose unrivalled
and devoted knowledge of the lake and its
waterways is of benefit to all.
Westward along Lough Neagh’s south
shore, PORTADOWN is reached via
the meandering Upper Bann. This busy
commercial town has a public quay on
the west shore immediately below the
old bridge, while the flotilla of small local
craft have their berths on the opposite
bank. Portadown is home to the stylish
and hospitable Seagoe Hotel (028 3833
3076), and Simon Dougan’s renowned
Yellow Door Deli, Bakery & Café (see
entry) next to Richardson’s butchers.
1 Yellow Door Deli, Bakery & Café,
Woodhouse Street,
Portadown, Co Armagh
028 3835 3528
EAT
Navigation of the River Bann requires a
copy of the Waterways Ireland published
user guide.
At KINNEGO, with a large well-sheltered
marina expanded to provide 190 berths,
the Harbour Office (028 3832 7573) has
a convenient café The Galley, revamped
in 2012. The impressive Lough Neagh
Discovery Centre (028 3832 2205)
nearby at OXFORD ISLAND provides
fascinating insights, and a comfortable
(unlicensed) restaurant. The nearest pub
is at DERRYMACASH, and all facilities
are in the town of LURGAN, about 25
minutes walk. It is perhaps best reached
by taxi for shopping and – include a visit
to award-winning master butchers Doweys
(028 3832 2547; shop Mon-Sat 9-5.30,
late opening Thu to 8pm; coffee shop
Mon-Sat 9-5) located on High Street, they
also have an innovative deli section and a
coffee shop which could be just the spot
for lunch.
38
To reach the Yellow Door from the harbour/
railway station, walk up the hill under the
bypass bridge: it’s on the right - and well
worth finding. Simon Dougan is one of the
luminaries of the Northern Ireland food
scene, and his inhouse bakery produces
some of the finest bread anywhere. And,
as well as retailing a wide range of fine
foods, their own specialities include patés,
terrines, chutneys, salads and ice cream,
all available in both the shop and the café.
Don’t miss the house special, hot smoked
Irish salmon with grilled soda bread, wild
rocket and lemon dill cream…Breakfast
from 9am, L 12-2.30; food from deli all
day until 5pm; Licensed. MC, V, S.
Upriver of Portadown, the Bann gets you
to Moneypenny’s Lock (028 3834 1635)
and the defunct Newry Canal. Finally
closed in 1949, it was last navigated –
and by a yacht at that – in 1937, but
there’s an active restoration group hoping
to reopen the ancient link to Newry twenty
miles away.
Heading west from Bannfoot on Lough
Neagh, the next river is the Blackwater,
which gave access both to the Coalisland
Canal and the Ulster Canal, which provided
the link to Lough Erne and the Shannon
System.
The BLACKWATER itself is an attractive
waterway if you can negotiate the low
motorway bridge, upriver you find a
pleasant National Trust property, The Argory
(028 8778 4753), with its own jetty. On
southward, there’s berthing at Charlemont
Bridge to give access to MOY, an elegant
village atop a little hill, which offers all you
could want, appealingly arranged around
a handsome tree lined square. Ryandale
Inn (028 8778 4629) is a substantial pub
of real old-fashioned character, with open
fires and a separate dining room; flanked
by an antique shop and Daly’s Wines, and
another inviting pub, Jordan’s Bar/The
Auction Rooms (028 8778 4891). Down
nearer the bridge, there are one or two
coffee shops, also a pharmacy and a shop
selling practical items like fishing gear.
The top of the navigation is
BLACKWATERTOWN, whose old name
of Port Mór tells us everything – in the
friendly Portmór House (028 3754 8053)
there’s a welcoming fire in the bar, and it
has a popular neighbourhood restaurant
(weekends). An old wall map reveals
Blackwatertown’s history as a major inland
waterways harbour. Next port along the
disused Ulster Canal was historic BENBURB
on its spectacular river valley, the Gorge.
The village has established a reputation
for arts and crafts and as it’s only a short
taxi ride from Blackwatertown, is well worth
a journey, notably to visit the Benburb
Valley Heritage Centre (028 3754; www.
discoverireland.ie). In the village, the
Servite Priory and Castle is of interest, and
there are art & craft studios behind Priory
Cottages on the main street.
Back at Lough Neagh along the western
shore northwards from Maghery, we’re on
the coast of Tyrone for 20 kilometres. The
lowering of the lake in times past means
that some ancient miniature harbours may
be long forgotten, but tiny little ports are
traditionally home to the eel fishing fleet.
The first “official” harbour is at BROCAGH
north of Washing Bay, where Brocagh
Castle (028 8773 8916) is home to the
Castle Bay Community Centre, complete
with restaurant.
Nine kilometres along the coast, there’s
a special area at ARDBOE or Church
Point, with its Sixth Century Abbey and a
Tenth Century Celtic High Cross – possibly
the oldest in Ulster. There are “portlets”
along the lakeline, but the local boating
magnet – just 1.5 km north of the point
– is BATTERY HARBOUR, which has 12
marina berths, and is a proper little fishing
port complete with a lifeboat house and
some very impressive fishing boats in the
classic Lough Neagh dragracer style. For
sustenance, there’s The Harbour Pizzeria &
Chippy (028 8673 7203), and a quayside
pub the Battery Bar (028 8673 6367)
where you can get a taxi to the famous
Tilley Lamp Restaurant (see entry) at
Ardboe. This hospitable place may be
three kilometres from the lake, but it’s the
essence of Lough Neagh.
39
2 Tilley Lamp Restaurant,
Ardboe, Co Tyrone
028 8673 7673
EAT
This warm and friendly restaurant, one of
the few to serve that elusive local speciality,
Lough Neagh eels (if available). A sign
advising that ‘split bills cannot be handled’
warns that booking is necessary, especially at
weekends. Open Mon, Wed & Thu 12-9; Fri
12-9.30, Sat 12-10; Sun 12-2.30 & 4.30-9.
Closed Tue. MC, V.
Up the road, the Kinturk Cultural Centre
(028 8673 6512) is the neighbourhood
focal point, with bar and restaurant, and
nearby the restored Coyle’s Cottage is an
eloquent testimony to the life of the eel
fishermen in days long ago.
Nine kilometres northward from
Battery Harbour is the attractive port of
BALLYRONAN, which is to the northwest of
Lough Neagh as Kinnego is to the southeast
– it’s the focal point for recreational boating
in the area. The impressive and superbly
sheltered Ballyronan Marina
(028 7941 8399) has expanded to 72
berths, and harbourside facilities include
the long-established Blue Sky Chinese
Restaurant (028 7941 8885). Within a
very few minutes walk, Ballyronan itself is
a real country village with three pubs, the
nearest being The Cove (028 7941 8270).
40
Heading on from Ballyronan, Lough Neagh
enters Toome Bay. The pace quickens.
It’s a major sand-dredging area, and
the lake seems to gather itself for exit
through the Lower Bann. TOOMEBRIDGE
village is becoming accustomed to the
fact that being by-passed from the main
road benefits community life, with the
renovated White River Hotel
(028 7965 0800), formerly the O’Neill
Arms, a focal point for the area once
again.
Lough Neagh’s north shore is in County
Antrim, as is most of the east shore.
Heading eastward from Toome Bay, there
are fishing portlets hidden along the coast,
and the first proper landing stage is near
enough at the mid-point of the north
shore, at CRANFIELD BAY. A pleasant
spot, with a “summer and weekend” pub
beside it, the Cranfield Inn.
Antrim Bay finds the lake’s shoreline
becoming more scenically assertive. The
town of ANTRIM is “of the lake, but not on
it” – the town centre is about 20 minutes
walk from the berthing at the mouth of
the Six Mile Water, but it’s a pleasant
enough outing in fine weather, up past the
immaculately maintained Massereene Golf
Club. At the jetty, there is the seasonal
Loughshore Café (028 9446 3966),
while the nearest hostelry in town is the
hospitable Cova Inn (028 9442 8249)
on Bridge Street, with pub grub on certain
days; nearer the main shopping area,
on Castle Street, The Stables Bar &
Restaurant (028 9446 5189) is another
option. The Top of the Town
(028 9442 8146) at 77 Fountain Street
is also worth considering – although aptly
named (up through the town centre,
beyond a mini-roundabout), this classic
Ulster pub/restaurant might not seem
too long walk a walk in fine weather, and
becomes an attractive option if a taxi is
brought into the equation – a pleasingly
traditional place with darkwood furniture
and proper fires, it has a well-deserved
reputation for good home cooking. And,
should the urge to shop until you drop
come over you while in Antrim, remember
that the factory outlet shopping centre
Junction One, which offers huge discounts
off designer and international brands, is
virtually in the town – and with a choice of
restaurants and cafés to sustain you.
Heading southwest from Antrim, a
passage of six kilometres brings us to
Ballyginiff. There’s a busy sand quay,
but if a berth can be found, McKenna’s
Bar (028 9442 2229) is just across the
little shore road, a characterful place
where wildfowlers, anglers, fisherfolk and
sandmen relax after their day’s activities.
The 20 kilometres from Ballyginiff towards
Kinnego offer some of the most interesting
cruising on Lough Neagh, as the shoreline
is well indented south of Gartree Point
with many bays and coves, and there’s
also Ram’s Island to visit. Lough Neagh
has several islands, but most are tiny
and inaccessible. Only Coney Island in
the southwest corner, and Ram’s Island
“offshore” on the east side, provide
convenient landing and historic monastic
remains. Inshore from Ram’s Island,
the aptly named SANDY BAY has busy
dredger quays, but it also has proper
recreational berthing at Crumlin Marina
(028 9442 3227). Apart from the sand
dredging operations, it’s a very rural
setting. The nearest village – Glenavy – is
four kilometres up the road, and the larger
Crumlin itself is at seven kilometres.
In Glenavy, you’ll find a good meal at Lily
Johnston’s Bar & Kitchen (see entry) and
if you have some food shopping to do,
you’ve come to the right place as Glenavy
is also home to The Cabbage Patch
(028 9442 2411). An impressive food
store featuring speciality cheese counter
and deli, it has a great butchery section,
green grocers (with proper soil-bearing
local vegetables as well as posher imports)
and good home baking on offer, as well
as all the more run of the mill items. Well
worth a detour.
3 Lily Johnston’s Bar & Kitchen
Main Street, Glenavy, Co Antrim
028 9442 2467
EAT & DRINK
Right in the heart of the village, this friendly
pub/restaurant (formerly McGeown’s) has
recently had a contemporary makeover but
its origins go back to the 17th century and
an open fire provides a timeless welcome.
Open for lunch and dinner, it’s a very useful
place for the hungry foodie to know about.
Salt and pepper mills on the table are a
promising sign – and the food is really good;
even something as simple as a flavoursome
lunchtime bowl of soup (leek and potato,
perhaps, with good texture as well as flavour)
is made and presented with care, together
with home baked wheaten bread and
freshly cut triangles of butter. Open Mon-Sat
11.30am-1am, Sun 12.30-midnight.
MC, V.
41
For those who prefer to stay close to their
boat and yet enjoy refreshment ashore, the
convenient spot hereabouts is GAWLEY’S
GATE in the bay south of Hog Park Point.
There’s a snug inlet with a landing stage,
and right beside it is the Gate Inn
(028 9265 1764), which becomes the
hub of the neighbourhood at weekends and
holiday time, the very complete welcoming
package including a restaurant.
In the final approaches back to Kinnego,
Lough Neagh’s coastline is attractive,
and historically interesting too. South of
Haggan’s Point, if you leave Morrow’s Point
with its private yacht harbour to starboard,
the course is into a little bay called Ellis’s
Gut. It’s here that in times past the Lagan
Navigation & Canal reached Lough Neagh
from Belfast. This waterway was closed in
1958, but it can still be traced.
Lower Bann Navigation –
Toomebridge to Coleraine
While the Upper Bann is a meandering river
in its approaches to Lough Neagh, the Lower
Bann seems much more businesslike as it
goes from the lough to the Atlantic. There
may be a breathing space in Lough Beg a
couple of kilometres north of Toome, but
after the extensive horizons of Lough Neagh,
Lough Beg seems of modest scale, although
impressively graced by Church Island with
its distinctive spire. The Bann meanwhile
makes its way to the ocean.
42
The area west of the southern end of the
Lower Bann is “Heaney country”, and visitors
wishing to explore the area where the great
poet was born and raised will enjoy visiting
BELLAGHY BAWN, near MAGHERAFELT,
which honours his work and that of other
writers, and perhaps staying at Laurel Villa
(see entry) in Magherafelt. The good food in
the town may be an additional temptation,
as (along with the neighbouring town of
Castledawson) it is home to one of Ireland’s
most famous food businesses, Ditty’s Home
Bakery & Coffee Shop
(028 7963 3944; www.dittysbakery.com),
and also Sean Owens’ restaurant Gardiners
G2 (028 7930 0333; www.gardiners.net),
known for showcasing local produce – at a
fair price.
A newer arrival, just across from Laurel Villa
(see entry), is the eponymous Church Street
Restaurant (028 7932 8083), which is also
pleasing local foodies.
4 Laurel Villa
Church Street, Magherafelt
Co Londonderry
028 7930 1459
STAY
Gerardine and Eugene Kielt’s Victorian
townhouse exudes charm and instils
a sense of curiosity within the many
guests who travel here from far and
wide to experience not only the warmth
and enthusiasm of the owners (and very
comfortable accommodation), but also
to enjoy their permanent exhibition of the
poet Seamus Heaney who was born at
Bellaghy, only a few kilometres from this
fine old residence. Heritage and cultural
tours are available on request, taken by
Eugene who is a professional guide, or
you may be lucky enough to combine your
stay with one of the Laurel Villa special
poetry reading evenings. B&B from about
£35pps, MC, V.
Amenities along the Lower Bann have
been much improved in recent years,
with new landing stages and mooring
jetties, together with improved marking
and navigational signage all adding to
an enhanced cruiser experience. The
waterway itself is one of pleasant
surprises. Although fairly direct in its
route, it is sufficiently winding to provide
attractive vistas, and the 52 kilometre
journey to Coleraine offers many
convenient stopping places. First of these
is at Newferry, where a waterski club has
its clubhouse on the east shore, and if
you can raise a taxi, a short journey brings
you into the heart of the country and the
thatched little Cross Keys Inn, renowned
throughout Ireland as a centre of folk
music.
PORTGLENONE, 14 kilometres north of
Toome, has a small marina (028 2563
5900) below the bridge, and there is also
some berthing at the old town quay beside
the Wild Duck Inn (see entry) and, should
you be pining for creature comforts and
fine dining, there’s an opportunity just a
taxi ride away at Upperlands, where you
will find Ardtara Country House (see
entry) which was once home to the Clark
linen family.
43
5 The Wild Duck Inn,
Portglenone, Co Antrim
028 2582 1232
EAT & DRINK
Right beside the old town quay, this
smartly maintained family-run pub has
grown a lot bigger over the years but has
lost none of its friendliness. It now has a
sunny terrace where you can sit out and
enjoy the view (and cosy fires for chilly
days), as well as offering wholesome fare
that will cheer and restore – perfect for
hungry boating folk. Bar menus are quite
extensive, and specialities such as Wild
Duck sizzling steak (sirloin with onions,
mushrooms, and a Bushmills sauce)
feature on the more selective restaurant
menu. Music in bar Wed, Thu nights.
Meals: full menu daily 12-9. Sun L 123.30. Reservations accepted. MC, V, S.
44
6 Ardtara Country House,
Gorteade Road, Upperlands,
Maghera, Co Londonderry
028 7964 4490
EAT & STAY
This handsome house has historical
significance in the area, and for Northern
Ireland’s industrial past, as it was once
home to the Clark family of linen fame –
William Clark & Sons is the oldest linen
manufacturer in Northern Ireland and still
owned by the same family. It is a special
place to stay, with meals served in the
former snooker room (still with Victorian
skylight and original hunting frieze), as well
as in the conservatory or bar. The lovely
setting, a warm welcome and cooking
based on mainly local ingredients should
make a visit here a worthwhile diversion.
Reservations required. B&B from about
£40pps. D daily 6.30-9; Sun L 12.304.30. Check times off season.
Amex, MC, V, S.
Eleven kilometres downriver, there’s
berthing on the west bank at KILREA
above the bridge. Here, the impressive
waterside Portneal Lodge (028 2954
1444) is a community venture complete
with restaurant to provide a base for many
outdoor activities. The short stroll into
Kilrea itself will bring you to the Arbutus
Restaurant (028 2954 0140), on Bridge
Street. But first on the left as you walk up
from Portneal is the friendly Manor House
Golf Club (028 2954 0134) offering food
12.30-9 daily, and entertainment on some
nights too.
Continuing north, the river is serious
angling territory. After passing through
Movanagher Lock, Vow Jetty is slightly less
than a kilometre further along, on the east
bank. A peaceful berth, and through the
woods and a little way up the hill we find
the friendly Anglers Rest pub/restaurant
(028 2954 0280) in a very rural setting,
where the talk is of the ways of the wily
fish.
Through Agivey Bridge, and the 53-berth
Drumaheglis Marina (028 2766 6466)
is three kilometres further along, on the
east bank. It has all facilities, and makes
an excellent base for the area. Within
easy reach by taxi for a wholesome treat is
the Brown Trout Country Club & Inn (see
entry).
7 The Brown Trout Golf & Country Inn,
Agivey Road, Aghadowey,
Co Londonderry
028 7086 8209
EAT, DRINK & STAY
The O’Haras’ lively family-run country inn
is just the spot for a round of golf to make
a change from life afloat, and you’ll soon
find friends in the convivial bar. Excellent
homecooked food in both bar (with
barbecue area) and evening restaurant.
Traditional music (Sat 9.30pm). Bar
meals: 12-9.30 daily (to 10 in summer).
Restaurant: D daily 5-9.30. Amex, D,
MC, V, L, S.
Downriver from Drumaheglis, Loughan
Marina provides riverline jetties on the
east shore, and a watersports facility with
the emphasis on water-skiing with a hostel
and restaurant, while there’s a quieter
Waterways Ireland jetty on the west bank
in a woodland setting.
45
The inland navigation concludes at the
tidal lock at The Cutts in Coleraine, but
beyond The Cutts a proper Waterways
Ireland berthing facility which takes
comfortable account of tidal variations
is available at Christie Park on the
west shore close above the town centre
bridge, while those who wish to get even
nearer the open sea have a choice of
three marinas on the east shore below
the town as the river widens into its
winding estuary. The largest is Coleraine
Marina with Coleraine Yacht Club beside
it, then there’s the Cranagh Marina at
an attractive old salmon fishing station,
and most seaward – and most senior – is
Seaton’s Marina.
As a bustling university town, Coleraine
has many cosmopolitan dining options
including Pizza Pomodoro
(028 7034 3222), about 300m from
Christie Park Jetty, and - at Coleraine
Riverside Park, about 300m from
Somerset Jetty - there’s an Indian
restaurant, Indus Valley
(028 7035 4242), and Yoko Restaurant
& Noodle Bar (028 7032 0100). The
Premier Inn (0870 4236490) at
Riverside Park also has a restaurant
(‘Table, Table’), and a particular riverside
favourite is the long-established Water
Margin (see entry).
46
8 The Water Margin,
Coleraine, Co Londonderry
028 7034 2222
EAT
An impressive first floor restaurant above
the Boat Club, this magnificently located
Chinese/Asian fusion restaurant has
fine river views and all the ingredients
for a special meal out. In addition to
the familiar set ‘banquets’ and western
favourites like aromatic duck and sizzling
dishes, the more adventurous diner will
find unusual dishes too – all enhanced by
good service from helpful, smartly dressed
staff. Open Mon-Sat 12.30- 2.15 &
5-10.30, Sun 12.30-9.30. MC, V, Amex,
Delta, S.
Royal Canal
ROYAL CANAL:
Following the completion of recent
restoration works, the ROYAL CANAL once
again links Dublin to the Upper Shannon.
While it may not (yet at any rate) carry
the 40,000 passengers and 80,000 tons
of goods that it reportedly carried in the
1830s, it is a living waterway once again
and gives renewed access to many places
of interest near the canal.
In Dublin, for example, the NATIONAL
BOTANIC GARDENS (01 857 0909;
www.botanicgardens.ie) at Glasnevin are
easily accessible from Cross Guns Bridge
and, not far out of the city, the 13th
century MAYNOOTH CASTLE
(01 628 6744; 10-6 in summer; free) is
close to the harbour in Maynooth town.
a special visit. Inside the building, an
18-metre stretch of preserved road is on
permanent display in a specially designed
hall with humidifiers to prevent the ancient
wood from cracking in the heat.
There are also EQUESTRIAN activities
available at Keenagh, where Mosstown
Stables is picturesquely located on
the banks of the Royal Canal, between
Longford and Athlone.
Other great GARDENS, CASTLES and
SPECIAL PROPERTIES along the way that
are open to the public include the highly
unusual LARCHILL ARCADIAN GARDENS
(01 628 7354; www.larchhill.ie) near
Kilcock and, just south of Mullingar
the impressive BELVEDERE HOUSE,
GARDENS AND PARK (044 934 9060;
www.belvedere-house.ie).
BOATING and CANOE POLO are among
the main activities enjoyed on the Royal
Canal and it is a wonderful place for
WALKING as it passes through some
exceptionally beautiful countryside and the
towpath is now designated
THE ROYAL CANAL WAY (a national
waymarked way). The WESTMEATH WAY
is another waymarked route stretching
from Mullingar to Kilbeggan. ANGLING is
also an increasingly popular activity along
the Royal Canal; roach, tench bream and
pike are the most abundant fish, with
the wily pike weighing in up to 20lb, and
conditions are suitable for anglers of all
abilities.
3km from Keenagh, Co Longford, and of
particular HISTORICAL interest, CORLEA
TRACKWAY VISITOR CENTRE
(www.heritageireland.ie) interprets an
Iron Age road across the boglands that
was built of oak in 148 BC and is worth
discoverireland.com
47
The Royal Canal
Place of interest
Cycle Hire
15
Dayboat Hire
Watersports
Cruiser/Barge Hire
Mooring
14
Boat Trips
11 12 13
10
Tourist Information
Office
9
8
4
3
1
2
5 6 7
The Royal Canal:
The Royal Canal is an endearing waterway.
There is something exhilarating about the
continued existence of any part of it in the
21st Century, against all the odds. And its
reopening to run all of the 146 kilometres
from Dublin Port to the northern River
Shannon is a testimony to modern personal
dedication, and the wayward eccentricity of
those who built the Royal Canal between
1789 and 1817.
It’s a long story, well known to waterways
devotees. For contemporary enthusiasts, it
means there’s a refreshing waterway corridor
which enlivens Dublin’s north city, adds an
extra dimension to the city’s outer suburbs,
brings new interest to rural areas of the
north midlands, and introduces people to a
little-known part of the country over to the
northwest.
This beautiful canal, at one time virtually
forgotten, has become an environmental
asset. Along its banks and towpath, the
regeneration of town and country interacts
48
with the growing vitality of a winding waterway
which enchants at every turn. And for
the voyager along the Royal Canal, the
convenient hospitality options improve with
every year.
Heading away from the Liffey at the beginning
of the canal, but still very much in the heart
of Dublin, pubs and shops can be accessed
at Binns Bridge. And further along at Cross
Guns Bridge – 1.5 kilometres after passing
beneath the soaring structures of the majestic
Gaelic Athletic Association Stadium at Croke
Park, where Croke Park Hotel
(01 871 4444) offers all facilities, and is
a popular venue for watching the matches
on their big screen – there’s a comfortable
landing stage just below CROSS GUNS
BRIDGE.
Right beside it is the youthful Porter House
North and, just across the road, the more
traditional Brian Boru (see entries). Either
would make a welcome oasis, for this stretch
of the canal is thirsty work, with many locks.
Royal Canal
1 Porter House North,
Cross Guns Bridge,
Glasnevin, Dublin 9
01 830 9884
EAT & DRINK
Originally the Iona Garage, owned by the
Cahill family (who were also associated
with the aviation industry), this large white
building, right at Cross Guns Bridge, is
hard to miss. Although now a trendy pub,
some of the original art deco features
have survived. Menus offer a range of
popular dishes, including pizzas made in a
special pizza oven in an open kitchen, but
beer lovers will find that the wide range
offered is of special interest, as this is
one of the Porterhouse Brewing Company
group of pubs, specialising in their own
small batch beers. Wheelchair accessible.
Food served daily: Mon-Fri 3-11.30; Sat
12-2.30am, Sun 12.30-11.30. MC, V.
2 The Brian Boru,
5 Prospect Road, Glasnevin,
Dublin 9
01 830 4527
EAT & DRINK
Also known as Hedigans, The Brian Boru
is a lovely traditional pub that has lost
none of its charm. Handy to the nearby
Botanic Gardens, you’ll notice a pleasingly
classical facade – and it’s deceptive,
as you will find a surprisingly big place
inside. Over the years it has extended
into next door, added a bright conservatory
and they run whole schedule of evening
entertainment - yet you’ll still find old
style service, a warm welcome and a cosy
bar that hasn’t been overwhelmed by
flatscreen TVs. All this and good food too.
Menu served until 9pm daily.
All cards except Amex.
By the time you begin to get hints of
countryside up towards Ashtown north of
the Phoenix Park, you’ll have made 15
lock transits. But in order to encourage
weary crews, they count doubles as
singles. Thus at 6 kilometres up from
the sea, you’re officially approaching
Lock 9, but it’s the fifteenth bit of work.
So another refreshment stop would be
welcome, and there is a very good one,
just three kilometres further along. But
it’s the most extraordinary three kilometres
you’ll experience on any Irish canal.
49
There are three more locks, all of them
doubles. And the railway is right alongside.
Back in 1845, the impoverished Royal
Canal was completely bought up by railway
promoters in order to provide a convenient
route for their proposed permanent way.
The blessing is that the canal survived at
all, and the miracle is the railway is not
unduly obtrusive. But meanwhile, the
hum of motorway traffic is becoming more
evident. And suddenly it’s all happening
at once. “Intersection” is scarcely the
word for it. There’s double lock Number
11, and the Royal Canal and the railway
both cross above the motorway, yet
go under its associated roundabouts.
Then under another bridge or two, then
through another double lock (Number
12). And you’re there…..It’s more than
an oasis, it’s a sanctuary. You’ve reached
CASTLEKNOCK, and beside the welcome
berth there’s that fine establishment
The Twelfth Lock (see entry). One of
Ireland’s newer inns, perhaps, but already
part of Royal Canal folklore.
3 The Twelfth Lock,
Castleknock Marina,
Castleknock, Dublin 15
01 860 7400
EAT, DRINK & STAY
The heart of this attractive small hotel
is a cosmopolitan, light-filled open-plan
bar, with a sunny deck overlooking the
canal. Staff are exceptionally friendly
and helpful, quickly taking orders from
attractive menus – warm salads, pastas,
home made burgers, wraps and steaks are
typical, also a 12th Lock Stir-fry offered
in several variations, including vegetarian.
Guest rooms are on the lower floor and
less bright, but reasonably priced. Room
rate about d49. Bar Food daily: 12-9.30
(from 12.30 Sat & Sun). Amex, MC, V, L.
The early promoters of the Royal Canal
may have been slightly eccentric. But
seemingly they also had a sense of
humour. For any crew coming up from
the sea lock on the Liffey will have worked
hard by the time they’re downing a pint
just ten kilometres along the waterway
in the bar of The Twelfth Lock. But after
that, for a modern motorcruiser with no
concerns about a towing horse, it’s just
a case of swanning along – there isn’t
another lock for 12 kilometres.
50
Royal Canal
However, because the canal is merrily
following the contour line along the valley
of the River Liffey, it tends to be at some
distance from the hostelries of Lucan.
But after 9 kilometres a berth at Cope
Bridge will provide access to the culinary
pleasures of LEIXLIP just one kilometre
down the road, and particularly Becketts
Hotel (01 624 7040), just across the
bridge, and the Bradaun Restaurant at
Leixlip House Hotel (see entry). If you
need a taxi for shopping or eating out in
the Leixlip/Lucan/Maynooth area, a reliable
company is Pat’s Cabs (01 601 4411).
MAYNOOTH – eight kilometres and one
lock further west – provides the first
proper canal port. A busy university town,
Maynooth is a handy place to top up
general stores. The choice of good eating
places has improved dramatically in the last
few years and there are now several good
bars and restaurants within easy walking
distance of the harbour. Nearest to the
harbour, on Leinster Street, is the popular
pub Fitzgeralds/The Roost (01 628 9843)
which does food, and just beyond it, across
Main Street and beside the castle, is the
excellent Greene’s Restaurant and Deli
(see entry). Around the corner, opposite
the Mill Wine Cellar, Café Bon Bon
4 Bradaun Restaurant,
Leixlip House Hotel,
Captains Hill, Leixlip, Co Kildare
01 624 2268
EAT, DRINK & STAY
(01 629 2351; open 9-5.30) is a pretty
café for light meals and ‘temptations’ at
any time of day. Heading east along the
main street, turn left at the lights into
Fagan’s Lane where you’ll find the Café
Twist (01 6293957; Mon-Fri 8.30-5.30,
Sat 9-5, Sun 10-4); offering a range of
appealing menus through the day, this
café is especially popular for tapas in the
evening. Further along, at the Dublin end
of the street and opposite the gates into
Carton House, you’ll find Avenue Café (see
entry); it should be well worth the extra
distance, which is not great, and before or
after your meal you could walk up through
parkland to see Carton House (see entry)
now a hotel. Alternatively, a short taxi ride
Maynooth Cabs (01 628 9999) from the
harbour would take you to the hotel, if the
idea of dining there appeals.
Up on a height overlooking Leixlip village, this
lovely Georgian house has an atmosphere of
discreet opulence that contrasts perfectly with
the boating life. Good modern Irish cooking
is offered both in the elegant, high-ceilinged
Bradaun Restaurant and in the lounge, for
a more informal meal. Lovely rooms too,
popular with business guests. B&B from
about d45pps. Lounge/bar food: 12-9
daily. Restaurant: Fri & Sat, 5.30-10; also
traditional Sun L, 12.30-6. Amex, D, MC,
V, L.
51
5 Greene’s Restaurant & Deli,
Main Street, Maynooth,
Co Kildare
01 654 8000
6 Avenue Café,
Main Street, Maynooth,
Co Kildare
01 628 5003
EAT
Although relatively new, this appealing
restaurant close to historic Maynooth
Castle has become a favourite with local
diners, who love its intimate ambience
and friendly staff as much as the wideranging menus and tasty food. There’s a
distinctly French atmosphere in the two
rooms that make up the main restaurant
– one with large windows overlooking the
side of the castle - and next door they
have an informal daytime café, which also
offers some deli products. Open Mon-Thu
12-10, Fri-Sun 11-10. Early D MonThu 4-7; other menus (brunch, lunch,
weekday and weekend dinner) à la carte.
All cards except Amex.
52
EAT
At the Dublin end of Main Street, just
across from the gates into Carton House
and its beautiful tree-lined avenue,
Robert and Bronagh Kennedy’s two-storey
restaurant has a reputation for great food
and service at reasonable prices, and it is
deservedly one of the most popular eating
places in Maynooth. The old building has
been stylishly updated and it’s busy and
buzzy, a place for all ages and occasions.
The cooking style is modern smart-casual,
with a healthy respect for Irish producers
(suppliers are credited), and special diets
can be accommodated on request.
Open Mon-Sat 12-‘late’, Sun 1-8.
Set Sun L & early D, also à la carte;
children’s menu. All major cards
accepted.
Royal Canal
7 Carton House Hotel,
Maynooth,
Co Kildare
01 505 2000
EAT, DRINK & STAY
Once the residence of the Dukes of
Leinster, this imposing 1740’s mansion
was designed in classic style by the
renowned architect Richard Castles, and
is set in one of Ireland’s finest country
estates - now home to two championship
golf courses. Vast yet very elegant, it’s
a stimulating combination of old and
new; a visit is worthwhile for the overall
experience and it is a lovely place to stay
(with special offers often available). If
you choose to dine, The Linden Tree is
mainly an evening restaurant (reservations
required) and an informal option is offered
in the Clubhouse, in renovated stables
some distance from the house. B&B/
short breaks from about d70pps.
Restaurant D daily, 6.30-9.30. (NB:Fri/
Sat D residents only). All major cards
accepted.
KILCOCK – reached after six kilometres,
through two locks – is a charming harbour.
The village has a choice of pubs and
eating places including a number of ethnic
restaurants and takeaways, with favourites
including O’Keeffe’s/The Green Ribbon
(see entry) right on the quay, and a short
walk up the town to the square brings you
to the contemporary and family-friendly
Rye River Café (01 651 9322; Mon-Sat
9-5, Sun 10-2) next to Hugh Murphy’s
pub.
8 O’Keeffe’s Bar & Restaurant,
The Harbour, Kilcock,
Co Kildare
01 628 7225
EAT & DRINK
With its handsome traditional ‘drinking
bar’ on the right and much larger lounge
bar (where food is served) on the left as
you enter, both cheered by open fires
and friendly staff, this cosy and wellrun harbourside pub is a reminder of
the reason that Irish pubs are famous
throughout the world. Deceptively large
inside, the lounge bar extends well
back, leading into a back bar where an
impressively fresh and appealing carvery is
set up. The informal, comfortable setting
makes for a relaxing outing with family or
friends, and the good food, service and
value all ensure that customers will return.
A la carte & tapas Mon-Wed 12-9 & ThuSat 12-9.30. Carvery Mon-Sat 12-3, Sun
12-6. All major cards accepted.
53
Suitably fortified, you sail through Kilcock’s
double lock, and after four kilometres,
there’s another double at McLoughlin
Bridge – Number 17, Ferns Lock. It’s not
just any old lock, though, this Number 17.
For, after Ferns (or Ferrans), you’re on the
Long Level, 32 lock-free kilometres.
It makes for stylishly effortless cruising.
After nine kilometres, you’ve reached
ENFIELD (or Innfield). From the harbour,
which is quite attractive – the new bypass
bridge is part of it, and it has been well
done in stone, with generous planting – a
path leads through a linear ‘leisure park’
to the town. The first pub/restaurant
is the Bridge House (046 954 1127),
where the path meets the (still busy)
main road, and other eating places in the
town include Flattery’s (046 954 1032),
a homely, family-run traditional bar and
restaurant on the main street. The longestablished Lees Enfield Chinese
(046 954 9500) is in substantial
premises at the far end of the town and,
beside it, you will find the Streetside
Café (046 954 9750) a newer restaurant
offering a more contemporary atmosphere
for all day meals. Alternatively, if you are
prepared for a longer walk (or to take a
taxi) the nearby Johnstown House Hotel
(046 954 0000) offers boutique shopping
and leisure facilities (and, of course,
accommodation) as well as a choice of
dining options. If you’re in Enfield on a
Friday morning and need fresh provisions,
head for the country market at the
Community Hall (from 9.15am).
The Long Level continues its stately
progress with an aqueduct over the
Blackwater River, and then, six kilometres
beyond Enfield, it curves briefly to the
north. On this curve is MOYVALLEY
BRIDGE, where you will find the perfect
hostelry at Furey’s Bar (see entry).
54
9 Furey’s Bar,
Moyvalley, Co Kildare
046 955 1185
EAT & DRINK
This charming and immaculately
maintained establishment has a
welcoming bar with cosy sections, one
with a stove and canal views offering the
best of every world. Menus don’t give too
much away – soups, sandwiches, steaks,
burgers, salads – but one of their famous
steaks, with ‘all the trimmings’ is just the
ticket for folk coming off boats.
NB: groups must book ahead. Meals
Mon-Sat, 12-8 (last orders 7.30 on Sat
as very busy). No food on Sun.
MC, V, L.
Smooth progress continues for another
nine kilometres to HILL OF DOWN.
There is a harbour just before the Boyne
Aqueduct (four kilometres from Moyvalley)
which gives access along 1.5 kilometres of
country road to the village of LONGWOOD
which has amenities, and it can also
be reached via an overgrown path from
Ribbontail Bridge. But at the delightful
harbour of Hill of Down, the facilities are
right on the canal – a coffee shop at the
attractive boat hire base at the north
bank, and a pub, shop and post office at
Moran’s (046 954 6202) on the other
side.
Royal Canal
The Long Level has nearly run its course,
and west of Hill of Down you might well
yearn for the shelter of a lock, as it’s
open territory here. But then the civilised
landscape of Hyde Park takes over the
north bank, and comfort is all around
when, eight kilometres from Hill of Down,
the harbour at THOMASTOWN BRIDGE
is reached. This is one of the choice
stopping places along the canal and, on
the quayside, Nannie Quinn’s Pub
(044 937 4814) is a friendly bar; not a
place to expect food, but it is known as a
music destination.
You inevitably slow the pace in progress
west, for this is where the Killucan Flight
begins – eight locks virtually on the trot,
to lift us from the Long Level to the 24
kilometres of the Summit Level. It’s a very
pleasant area to linger. In addition to the
attractions of Thomastown, the hospitable
facilities of the village of KILLUCAN are
just a “country mile” (2.5 kilometres) up
the road to the north. Then back on the
Killucan Flight between Locks 21 and 22,
RIVERSTOWN BRIDGE gives access
southward to The Hideout/Cunningham’s
(044 937 4124), a multi-purpose pub/
shop unique even by Irish standards.
Above Lock 25, first stop on the Summit
Level is McNEAD’S BRIDGE, where
considerable road re-alignment has taken
place. In the midst of bridges new and old
there’s Mary Lynch’s pub/restaurant (see
entry), easily accessed from the canal and
long a favourite with boat people fortifying
themselves for arrival in Mullingar ten
kilometres further on.
10 Mary Lynch’s Pub,
MacNead’s Bridge,
Coralstown, Co Westmeath
044 937 4501
EAT & DRINK
John and Mary Moriarty’s old-world pub a
short distance east of Mullingar is tucked
between the N4 and the Royal Canal, with
a grandstand view of the harbour from the
back of the bar. A blackboard menu offers
traditional homecooked dishes like soup
of the day, fish pie, roast of the day and
steak sandwiches, and there’s likely to be
live music at weekends too. It’s a popular
destination for locals, and a useful place for
travellers to know about. Meals: Mon and
Wed-Sat 12-8, Tue 12-6. No food on Sun.
All major cards accepted.
MULLINGAR seems to be a moated
town. The Royal Canal circles this busy
commercial centre along the contour
line, so much so that the Mullingar urban
waterways experience is like being in a boat
in a moat. There’s a landing stage entering
town at Dublin Road Bridge, while the main
canal harbour – and a handsome one at
that – is on the north side of the loop.
From there it’s about half a kilometre to the
central area, which offers every facility for
visitors including a range of good places to
eat (see entries).
55
The Mullingar Park Hotel
(044 934 4446) on the Dublin Road
has brought welcome additional facilities
and a good reputation for its restaurant,
complementing the attractive old town
centre Greville Arms Hotel
(044 934 8563) which continues to
be central to local activities. The newer
Annebrook House Hotel (044 935 3300)
is built around a beautiful old house and
tucked away off the main street and, with
the town park on its doorstep and the
River Brosna flowing through its grounds,
it makes a lovely place to stay. Of the
town’s many fine pubs, Canton Casey’s is
a place for those who appreciate old world
bars (at its best at quiet times – it can get
very busy). Lovers of Indian food should
check out the long-established Saagar
(044 934 0911), which is near the Dublin
Bridge; or the cosy Silver Oak (044 939
5937) on Austin Friar Street (5.30-11
daily), those with more traditional tastes
could head for Mount Street where the
newer Café Brioche (044 93 47650)
is open Mon-Sat 8-6, also later for
tapas some evenings. Mullingar is a
great shopping town too - and there’s a
farmers’ market every Sunday (10.302.30, at Fairgreen, beside Penneys)
and you can stock up with wonderful
Westmeath beef at the renowned butchers
Tormey’s (044 934 5433; Harbour Place
shopping centre). New shops have sprung
up around the edges of the town of late
(but not too far to walk), with mainstream
stores including Marks & Spencer at
the Fairgreen Centre and, over at the
Mullingar Business Park (beside the
greyhound stadium), the new ‘fine food
and lifestyle store’ Red Earth
(044 939 0370; Mon-Sat 9.30-7,
Sun 11-6).
56
This a good place for gift hunting and
home accessories, but the main point
of interest is the food, especially the
restaurant which is open all day and,
although self-service, offers variety, good
cooking and pleasing surroundings at
a fair price; you can buy some of their
products to take home from the foodhall,
which also sells a range of other speciality
foods, mainly Irish.
11 Gallery 29 Café,
Oliver Plunkett Street,
Mullingar, Co Westmeath
044 934 9449
EAT
Although only open three days a week,
Ann & Emily Gray’s smart black-painted
traditionally-fronted premises is a good
place for any time, including breakfast and
afternoon tea. It’s bright and welcoming –
and the buzz of an open kitchen and lovely
freshly cooked food on display draws
people in. Great bakes complement
a range of tasty soups, salads and hot
dishes – and there are freshly made
dishes to go too. Open Thu-Sat, 9-6.
Wine licence. Closed Sun-Wed.
No credit cards.
Royal Canal
12 Ilia A Coffee Experience,
Oliver Plunkett Street,
Mullingar, Co Westmeath
044 934 0300
EAT
Julie Magan’s delightful 2-storey coffee
house/restaurant is as popular as ever and
now offers some of the tapas style dishes
previously enjoyed at ‘Ilia Tapas & More’
(formerly on Dominick Street). Menus
begin with an extensive breakfast (try
their Bagel Combo – toasted bagel with
crispy bacon, poached egg, topped with
melted cheddar & tomato relish), then
there’s a moreish all-day menu of creative
modern dishes and a great range of
drinks including, of course, coffees (Java
Republic), any way you like. Wine licence.
Open Mon-Sat, 9-6. Closed Sun.
MC, V, L.
13 Oscars,
Oliver Plunkett Street, Mullingar,
Co Westmeath
044 934 4909
EAT
This smartly painted centrally located
restaurant is extremely popular locally,
pleasing people of all ages with its
consistency, lively atmosphere and mix of
traditional and contemporary favourites at
reasonable prices. This is beef country,
so a section of the menu given over to
steaks should come as no surprise, but
there’s much else besides and occasional
offers are especially good value. D daily
from 6pm, 5.30 Fri, last order times vary,
Early bird until 8pm Mon-Fri. L Sun only
12.30-2.15. MC, V, L.
Westward of Mullingar, the atmosphere of
the Royal Canal changes. The last railway
line – and one long disused at that – peels
away at Ballinea five kilometres out of
town. Another five kilometres, and the
next lock – Number 26 at the attractive
COOLNAHAY HARBOUR in the middle of
countryside – is descending. In theory,
the River Shannon is beckoning. But the
Royal Canal being what it is, it ambles
about for very many pleasant kilometres
before finally linking up with the Shannon
at CLONDRA at the far side of County
Longford.
57
It makes for entertaining cruising, and
provides glimpses of some startlingly
beautiful scenery. As for ports of call, the
new mood is sensed at BALLYNACARGY,
nine kilometres (and ten locks) beyond
Coolnahay. An attractive harbour, and
a neat little township with several pubs,
notably the friendly and cosy Munnelly’s
(044 937 3288) and Halligan’s
(044 937 3306) which is at the front of
a remarkable conglomerate, as there’s
an excellent Halligan-owned mini-market
next door, and the tidy family farm out the
back.
It’s upwards of eight kilometres – and
three locks – to reach ABBEYSHRULE, an
entertaining place, and national winner of
the 2012 Supervalu Tidy Towns Award.
It has an aqueduct over the River Inny,
which is on its way to nearby Lough Ree,
the nearest part of the Shannon. But the
Royal Canal says thanks but no thanks,
and goes its own sweet way, the long
route to Longford. Or so it seems. But
it’s said the established Grand Canal
Company opposed any link by the Royal
Canal to Lough Ree. And in any case,
before the advent of engine power, a
terminus on a lake would have been
of limited value. Be that as it may, for
anyone in a hurry in Abbeyshrule, there’s
a club-run airfield (044 935 7459).
And there are two pubs; Rooney’s
(044 935 7886) which opens in the
evenings, and The Rustic Inn
(see entry).
58
14 The Rustic Inn
Abbeyshrule Co Longford
044 935 7742
EAT & DRINK
This unpretentious big pub lies between
the road and the restored canal, which
now provides a very attractive amenity
at the back. Ted and Betty McGoey have
made it the heart of the village, the place
where all the events of the community
take place. The welcome is warm, they
do soup and sandwiches all day, there’s
an evening menu, and daytime groups
can book ahead. Menu offered Mon-Sat
6-8.45, Sun ‘from 12-ish’. Open all year.
All major cards.
Beyond Abbeyshrule is the most recently
restored section of the Royal Canal,
and “new” ports beckon. Hidden in the
countryside north of the canal, the villages
of Tagshinny and Barry both have pubs
– Tagshinny is the nearer. The township
of Ballymahon in County Longford may
likewise be a country mile – this time
south – from Ballybrannigan Harbour. But
it rewards the effort – BALLYMAHON is a
fine place with a hotel, Cooneys
(090 643 8180), known for good steaks
and maybe a dozen pubs, the pace-setter
being Skelly’s (090 643 2105; B&B from
about €60pps) with its marvellous walkin fireplace, and good food: a barfood
menu runs from 12.30 to 5, and the
Royal Canal
place is transformed into a steakhouse
from then on in. They have an off-licence
too, frequent live music – and even
accommodation should the boat seem too
distant at the end of a long evening.
Next stop for sustenance will be FOIGHA
BRIDGE, five kilometres on, with the
crossroads and all country facilities
nearby. Just under ten kilometres beyond
Ballybrannigan, the tidy little village
of KEENAGH welcomes the restored
waterway at Mosstown Harbour and
O’Boyle’s is the time-honoured mixture of
pub, shop and grocer’s to provide much
that a boat crew needs.
For many decades, the idea that the
Royal Canal beyond Keenagh could
be resuscitated seemed very unlikely.
Bridges had been levelled, and water was
absent. But it has happened. Soon, the
old link to Longford town will be in focus,
and the pleasant village of KILLASHEE on
the main line has shaped up to become a
port of call - and the gloriously traditional
Magan’s pub is the hub of all local
activity.
While it may be some time before we
can expect to see the restoration of the
Longford Branch and the old harbour
in Longford town, Waterways Ireland is
undertaking a feasibility study on the
project. Meanwhile, Longford County
Council is due to begin work this year on a
combined cycling and walking route which
will run for over 15km, stretching from
Longford town, along the Longford Branch
and also along the Royal Canal main line
as far as Richmond Harbour at Clondra.
LONGFORD TOWN itself has much to
offer, including good food – Aubergine
Café Gallery (043 48633) and Torc Café
& Foodhall (043 48277) are highlights in
the town and, just outside it on the Dublin
road, Viewmount House (see entry).
15 VM Restaurant
Viewmount House, Dublin Road,
Longford, Co Longford
043 334 1919
EAT
Set in beautiful wooded gardens, James
and Beryl Kearney’s lovely Georgian
country house on the edge of Longford
town is home to VM Restaurant, which
- with a characterful stables conversion
and creative ingredients-led cooking by
chef Gary O’Hanlon - has made Longford
a destination for food lovers from far and
wide. Well worth a journey. D Wed-Sat
6.30-9.30, L Sun only 1-4.30; closed
Mon & Tue. Amex, MC, V.
Four kilometres beyond Killashee, the
Royal Canal terminus in RICHMOND
HARBOUR at Clondra (or Cloondara)
has never gone out of business. It’s
a wonderful place, a miniature port
complete with its own dry dock. And a
couple of pubs. The Richmond Inn
(043 26126) is right on the quay, and
landlord Des McPartland is a hospitable
fund of waterways knowledge. They
do soup and sandwiches at lunch,
while a group booking ahead can eat
later. An ideal spot to contemplate this
extraordinary harbour. The Royal Canal
may have slipped away from the River
Liffey in Dublin through a hole in the
wall. But it arrives beside the Shannon at
Clondra in County Longford in considerable
style, for Richmond Harbour has been
both restored and improved, with extra
berthing available along the tree-lined river
beside the entrance lock.
59
SHANNON NAVIGATION:
The Shannon is Ireland’s longest river and,
while it is no longer a major commercial
waterway, it is now a treasured leisure
amenity. Yet, for many lucky visitors, it is
still waiting to be discovered.
The Shannon Navigation begins, atypically,
in LIMERICK, a city offering a range of
attractions and activities unlike anything
else along the river. Along with all the
usual business of shopping, pubs, clubs
and restaurants that city life entails,
Limerick is a city of great historical
interest, with Viking origins. Its many
places of interest include the 13th century
KING JOHN’S CASTLE which – like
BUNRATTY CASTLE & FOLK PARK, only
a short distance from Limerick - makes
a great family outing. For information
on both castles and a host of other
attractions in the region, visit
www.shannonheritage.com. History and
culture come together on the waterfront,
beside berthing for visiting boats, where
the HUNT MUSEUM (061 312 833;
www.huntmuseum.com) houses one of
Ireland’s greatest private collections of art
and antiquities, and culture of a different
kind is available at another unique venue,
the UNIVERSITY CONCERT HALL
(www.uch.ie); located on the University
of Limerick campus, it is Ireland’s first
purpose built concert hall, hosting a varied
60
programme of top class productions
throughout the year.
After Limerick (once the locks of the
Ardnacrusha dam have been negotiated),
is LOUGH DERG, a ‘handsome inland sea’
with an attractive backdrop of wooded
hillsides, prosperous farmland and many
charming harbours - most famously at
Killaloe/Ballina, where the KILLALOE
HERITAGE & BRIAN BORU CENTRE
charts the history of Killaloe and its Celtic
and nautical significance. At the northern
end of the lough the ground floor of
PORTUMNA CASTLE (090 974 1658;
www.heritageireland.ie) is open to the
public, also the recently restored gardens
which include a 17th century walled
kitchen garden organically planted to its
original plan.
North-east of Lough Derg and most easily
accessed for those on a boating holiday
from the Portumna/Terryglass area (or
perhaps Victoria Lock/Banagher), BIRR
HERITAGE TOWN & BIRR CASTLE
DEMESNE (www.birrcastle.com), in
Co Offaly, would entail a special journey
but it merits the time and effort as it is a
very special place. Over four centuries,
Birr Castle Demesne has been developed
by the Parsons family, who have made
unique contributions to astronomy,
photography, engineering and botany.
Shannon Navigation
Birr Castle is the oldest inhabited home in
the county and one of the many treasures
you will find in its beautiful gardens is
‘the great Leviathan of Parsonstown’, an
astronomical telescope with a 72-inch
metal mirror; erected by the third Earl of
Rosse, this magnificent instrument was,
until 1917, the largest telescope in the
world.
Lough Derg and its shores are a hive of
activity. CRUISE HIRE & BOAT TRIPS and
a wide range of watersports are available,
including sailing, canoeing, boating,
fishing, swimming, diving, waterskiing and
cruising among the many activities; the
lake even has its own waterski school.
As elsewhere on Ireland’s waterways,
FISHING is popular, with pike fishing
particularly good from Killaloe up to
Portumna. Along the shores there is
pleasant WALKING, with signposted walks
along the river banks and rural roads,
the Lough Derg Way (from Killaloe to
Dromineer), and a nature trail and many
lovely forest walks at Portumna Forest
Park. For CYCLING, The Lough Derg
Cycle Way circles the lake and links with
the rural Nenagh Cycle Way. Excellent
parkland GOLF courses are plentiful
and it is a lovely area for horse riding,
with EQUESTRIAN centres at a number
of locations including Mountshannon,
Killaloe/Ballina and Limerick.
The MID SHANNON AREA between
Portumna and Athlone is very different,
with a sense of history ever present One
of Ireland’s most important heritage
sites is near Shannonbridge, the ancient
monastic site of CLONMACNOISE
(www.heritageireland.ie); it includes
an unrivalled collection of early Christian
remains and ruins, original high crosses
and a Visitor Centre.
In Athlone, Ireland’s most central town,
the Norman ATHLONE CASTLE &
VISITOR CENTRE on the Shannon’s west
bank, houses exhibitions, audio visual
presentations and the Tourist Office.
Tours of Lough Ree and the Shannon are
available from Athlone in a replica Viking
boat (www.vikingtoursireland.ie).
North of Athlone, LOUGH REE is one of
the Shannon’s three main lakes and offers
a varied shoreline with the population and
shoreside facilities concentrated in the
southern end, near Athlone.
The main activities are walking - rural,
woodland and shoreside walks abound
– along with watersports, including
sailing, and fishing; Lough Ree is a
mixed fishery with good stocks of trout,
pike and coarse fish.
North of Lough Derg, BIRDWATCHERS
will relish the undisturbed Shannon
Callows around Banagher, home to tens
of thousands of birds, both summer and
winter visitors.
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Golf is well catered for, with a particularly
scenic course at Glasson Hotel & Golf
Club (see entry). Interesting places to visit
include GLENDEER OPEN FARM
(090 643 7147; www.glendeerpetfarm.
ie) at Drum, west of Athlone, which is a
great all weather destination for a family
outing, with a nature walk, pet animals,
children’s playground and home baking.
Literature and drama celebrations abound
in this region, with many FESTIVALS
including the Athlone Literary Festival, The
Goldsmith International Literary Festival
and the Athlone All Ireland Amateur
Drama Festival, also the Waterways
Ireland Triathlone, Athlone, and Ballinasloe
River & Arts Festival. The Ballinasloe
Horse Fair, dating back to the 1700’s,
attracts up to 100,000 visitors from all
over the world.
North of Lough Ree, the UPPER
SHANNON is one of the most popular
areas for boating visitors, with the bustling
town of CARRICK-ON-SHANNON as
its main hub and popular for CRUISING
holidays. With 41 lakes within a six mile
radius of Carrick-on Shannon, FISHING is
the major activity and it is an ideal centre
for the visiting angler with boats, tackle,
live bait, maps and local knowledge all
readily available.
Interesting places to visit in Carrickon-Shannon include ST. GEORGE’S
HERITAGE & VISITOR CENTRE at St.
Marys Close (071 962 1757) and
THE DOCK (071 965 0828;
www.thedock.ie), overlooking the
marina, which was formerly a courthouse
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and is now Leitrim’s centre for the arts,
with a theatre, exhibition space, Leitrim
Design Centre and a café. Also in the
town, THE MARKET YARD CENTRE
(www.themarketyardcentre.com) is a
delightful spot, an old stone courtyard
with an interesting selection of shops and
restaurants and one of the country’s best
Farmers’ Markets (Thu 10-2). Nearby,
at Dromod, railway buffs will enjoy the
CAVAN & LEITRIM NARROW GAUGE
RAILWAY (071 963 8599;
www.cavanandleitrim.com), beside
Dromod railway station, which runs at
weekends and on Mondays.
Of the many FESTIVALS and EVENTS held
in the area, one of the most successful
is the CARRICK WATER MUSIC (www.
carrickonshannonwatermusic.com)
held in July; also of particular interest is
the town’s Rowing Regatta, which is one
of the oldest in Ireland.
LOUGH KEY & LOUGH ALLEN
At the northern end of the Shannon
Navigation Lough Key and Lough Allen
offer contrasting visitor experiences.
LOUGH KEY, a beautiful island-studded
lake, has the historic town of BOYLE at its
western corner. At this pleasant riverside
town, BOYLE ABBEY is an impressive
12th century Cistercian Monastery and
KING HOUSE (071 966 3242;
www.kinghouse.ie) is a magnificently
restored Georgian Mansion offering
an outstanding museum experience
chronicling 500 years of Irish life.
Shannon Navigation
Nearby LOUGH KEY FOREST PARK
(www.loughkey.ie) is a wonderful
amenity, with a mixture of forest, parkland
and features such as a viewing tower, Bog
Garden and tree-top walk. Its forest and
lakeshore paths are a gentle introduction
to the WALKING which is one of the most
popular activities in the area, notably on
the Cavan Way (connects the Leitrim Way
at Dowra and the Ulster Way at Blacklion),
and the Leitrim Way, with a panoramic
view over Lough Allen. As elsewhere on
the waterways, FISHING is popular, with
good coarse fishing around Boyle.
Good FISHING is available in Lough
Allen, notably pike but also trout in some
months; EQUESTRIAN activities are
available at the Moorlands Equestrian
Centre on the lough shore (see entry for
Ramada Hotel & Suites, Drumshanbo) and
popular WALKS in the area include The
Arigna Miners Way and Historical Trail.
discoverireland.ie/lakelands
LOUGH ALLEN by contrast is an expansive
lake between the coal-bearing Arigna
heights to the west, and the slopes of
Sliabh an Iarainn, the Iron Mountain, to
the east. In Drumshanbo, an angling
resort at the southern end of Lough Allen
– an area with special links with narrowgauge steam trains and coal-mining SLIABH AN IARAINN VISITOR CENTRE
tells the story of lovely Leitrim through
an audio visual show. Nearby at Arigna,
the ARIGNA MINING EXPERIENCE gives
a unique insight into coal mining in the
Arigna Valley, from the 1700’s until its
closure in 1990.
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SHANNON NAVIGATION
Place of interest
4 5
6
Dayboat Hire
Watersports
Cruiser/Barge Hire
3
Mooring
Boat Trips
Tourist Information
Office
2
1
Mid Shannon Area (MS)
Cycle Hire
6
5
7
4
10
11
3 2
1 2 3 4 5 6
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1
Limerick City (L)
9
Lough Derg Circuit (LD)
8
Shannon Navigation
SHANNON NAVIGATION:
LIMERICK
A holiday along the inland waterways is, by
definition, a quiet and relaxing affair where
life is lived at a wonderfully slowed-down
pace. But the contrasting experience
of visiting a lively city can bring an extra
dimension – so taking a look at Limerick
could be just the thing to add spice to
a laid-back break. Of great historical
interest, Limerick City is also renowned
for its rich cultural tradition, with many
excellent museums, galleries and theatres
to visit – and Ireland’s first purpose-built
concert hall. (Tourist Information Offices
have details of events). Limerick also
offers great shopping and a wide variety of
pubs, clubs and, of course, restaurants.
In addition to places to eat (and, in some
cases, stay) recommended below, other
great places to eat in the city include
some at the restored Milk Market
(markets held on Fri, Sat & Sun), including
Peter Ward’s Country Choice
(067 32596), the Limerick outpost of
one of Ireland’s most enterprising and
dedicated artisan food businesses, of
Nenagh Co Tipperary. The Sage Café
(061 409 458) on Catherine Street,
and Copper & Spice (061 313620) on
Cornmarket Row are also nearby. Other
popular choices include the atmospheric
Freddy’s Bistro (061 418749) off
Glentworth Street; Hampton’s
(061 609325) on Henry Street, a large,
stylish and reasonably priced basement
restaurant-grill next to the Marriott Hotel;
and DuCartes at The Hunt Museum
(061 312662) on Rutland Street, a
modern café/restaurant on the river side
of the Hunt Museum, overlooking the
marina. More information on restaurants
in the city can be found in tourist offices,
and from the Georgina Campbell website,
Ireland-guide.com.
Limerick City is only a short taxi ride from
Killaloe, if you prefer to leave your boat
there. Or, if you would like to stay in the
city, riverside hotels with lovely views
include the landmark Clarion Hotel
(061 444100) on Steamboat Quay,
Limerick Strand Hotel (061 421800) on
the western bank and Jurys Inn
(061 207000) beside Shannon Bridge, or
you could opt for a different experience at
One Pery Square (see entry), in the city’s
Georgian Quarter.
L1 River Bistro,
George’s Quay, Limerick
061 400990
EAT
Centrally located and just across the
bridge from the Hunt Museum (and the
marina), this smartly presented restaurant
overlooking the Abbey River is run by wellknown chef Diarmuid O’Callaghan and his
wife Carmel. Diarmuid is known for his
commitment to local ingredients and for
unpretentious cooking with an emphasis
on flavour so, although the understated
style of the restaurant provides a pleasant
backdrop, the food takes centre stage.
It is also great value. Reservations
recommended. D Tue-Sat, 6-9.30pm.
MC, V, L.
65
L2 Azur,
Georges Quay, Limerick
061 314994
EAT & DRINK
This popular contemporary restaurant
relocated from O’Connell Street to this
attractive location on Georges Quay
a while ago, and it was a good move.
The spacious interior has casual style,
and there’s plenty of outside seating
overlooking the river as well as a café-bar
(where you might enjoy a cocktail before
dinner). Seafood is owner-chef Ken
Stembridge’s main speciality, also steaks
and imaginative vegetarian dishes, and
Azur gives quality and value in a relaxed
setting. D Tue-Sun 5pm-‘late’; L Sun
only, 2-5. All major cards accepted.
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L3 The French Table,
Steamboat Quay, Limerick
061 609274
EAT
Thomas and Deirdre Fialon’s riverside
establishment is one of the city’s most
consistently excellent restaurants and
is deservedly popular. Dark wood, crisp
white linen and gleaming glassware set
the tone for Thomas’s good cooking
(mainly classic French, with the odd rustic
note), and welcoming, very professional,
staff are quick to make arriving guests feel
at home. The all-French wine list is of
special interest – and a lunchtime warm
steak sandwich with sautéed potatoes
and salad (€9) remains the best value
meal in town. L Tue-Fri, 12-3; D Tue-Sat,
6-10.30. V, MC.
Shannon Navigation
L4 The Glasshouse Restaurant
Riverpoint Building,
Lower Mallow Street, Limerick
061 469000
EAT & DRINK
In a dramatic modern development
overlooking the river at Shannon Bridge,
chef/owner David Corbett has brought
something new to the Limerick dining
scene with this stylish two-storey
restaurant and bar, and his seasonally-led
menus featuring local produce are sure to
please. The ground floor bar offers smartcasual informal dining (‘small plates’) and
has a welcome fire for chilly days, while
the much larger first floor dining room
follows the curve of the building and has
a high proportion of window tables, some
with access to a balcony, others with views
across the river to the hills of Co Clare.
Open D Tue-Sun from 5pm, but closed
Sun on bank hol weekends. V, MC.
L5 The Cornstore Winebar &
Restaurant,
Thomas Street, Limerick
061 609000
EAT & DRINK
Padraic Frawley is known for having his
finger on the pulse of Irish hospitality.
Aubars (061 317799), an old bar
revitalised on a pedestrianised street
in the centre of Limerick, was his
first success. The blend of appealing
modern menus, good cooking, stylish
surroundings and good value earned
such a loyal following that, on the same
street, The Cornstore soon opened.
Offering atmosphere, quality and value,
together with great service. Limerick is
lucky to have them both - and also, most
recently, the nearby Cornstore At Home,
specialising in freshly made convenience
foods and artisan produce. D daily
5-10.30, L Sat only 12-3. MC, V, L.
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L6 No. 1 Pery Square Hotel & Spa,
Pery Square, Limerick
061 402402
EAT, DRINK & STAY
Occupying a large corner site on the
city’s most gracious Georgian square,
overlooking a leafy park and only a
minute’s stroll away from the City Art
Gallery, Patricia Roberts’ luxurious
boutique hotel is the perfect base for
discerning visitors to Limerick city – and a
gorgeous Penthouse Suite even has views
across the city to the hills of Clare. And
the hotel’s restaurant Brasserie One is one
of the region’s premier dining destinations
too, famed for great food, wine and
service in lovely surroundings. B&B from
about €54pps. Brasserie One: D TueSat from 6pm, L Sun only, 11-7. Other
meals served in hotel: L Tue-Sat, Park
Room Lounge from 12.30; Afternoon Tea,
Drawing Room 3-6pm. MC. V, L.
Lough Derg Circuit
(clockwise from Killaloe)
LOUGH DERG is a handsome inland sea
set in an attractive blend of mountain and
hillside, woodland and farm. KILLALOE
is where the Shannon becomes more
purposeful in its approach to the sea. It
doesn’t reach the beginnings of salt water
until Ardnascrusha above Limerick, but
at KILLALOE between the mountains the
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great river’s sense of exit is most strongly
felt. This quintessential river port is two
townships – BALLINA in Tipperary on the
east bank, and KILLALOE, with its ancient
cathedral, across the river to the west
in Clare; here you will find good eating
places including the characterful bakery
and restaurant The Wooden Spoon (see
entry) on the corner of Church Street and
Bridge Street.
However, it’s all known as Killaloe, the
place where boats in from the sea regard
the inland waterways as truly beginning,
and in the other village (Ballina) you’ll
meet some real old salts in popular
venues like the Lakeside Hotel
(061 376122), beside Cherry Tree
restaurant (see entry), and Liam O’Riain’s
(061 376722), which is a traditional
unspoilt pub. Also on the Ballina side
is the popular waterside restaurant,
Flanagans Steakhouse & Bar
(061 622790), known for familyfriendliness and good service, and, further
along the river front, the long-established
Goosers (061 376791) is an attractive
traditional pub with an outside seating
area, offering both bar and restaurant food
(very busy in summer). A weekly farmers’
market (Sundays, 11-3) is held Between
the Waters (between the canal and the
river) opposite the Tourist Information
Office; it makes a colourful outing and
offers the opportunity to stock up with
wholesome local and organic fare.
Shannon Navigation
LD1 Cherry Tree Restaurant,
Killaloe, Co Tipperary
061 375688
EAT
Discerning diners travel from afar to
chef patron Harry McKeown’s fine
contemporary riverside restaurant, where
accomplished cooking is based on
carefully sourced seasonal ingredients:
summer menus showcase organic herbs
and vegetables, the style is admirably
simple, and specialities include superb
local sirloin of beef (dry-aged and cut to
order) and great salads. Well-behaved
children welcome until 7pm (children’s
menu offered). D Tue-Sat, 6-10; L Sun
bank hol w/e only 12.30-3). Times may
change; reservations advised. Amex,
MC, V, L.
LD2 The Wooden Spoon,
Bridge Street,
Killaloe, Co Clare
061 622415
EAT
Passing through tall wrought iron gates on
the steep street which looks down over the
bridge between Killaloe and Ballina, you
walk into a leafy bower with picnic tables,
and then on into a delightfully appealing
old-fashioned café interior – formerly the
characterful premises of Crotty’s pub,
new owner Laura Kilkenny wisely made no
unnecessary changes when she opened
her café, bakery & deli here in 2009.
You still get the sense of the old bar –
complete with welcome fire down at the
far end – but now the bar tops are piled
high with freshly baked, scones and cakes
and every kind of temptation you could
think of. A short menu offers delicious
savoury dishes too, so you can have a
really tasty yet surprisingly healthy, meal
here. The bakery next door (Church Street
entrance) is open Tue-Sat. Café: TueSun: Tue-Thu 9.30-6, Fri & Sat 12-9, Sun
12-6. MC, V.
69
LD3 Brasserie Mark Anderson
AnnaCarriga, Killaloe, Co Clare
061 620 710
EAT
A holiday village and marina on the
western shore of Lough Derg may seem
an unlikely place to find one of Ireland’s
most interesting smart-casual restaurants,
but this is where you’ll find the latest
venture by Mark Anderson, until recently
proprietor of Gravitas, in Killaloe. Although
an events venue commands the prime
waterside location nearby, this former pub
provides a warm and characterful setting
for Mark’s cooking, which showcase the
finest local ingredients in seasonally-led
menus that offer seriously good food at
affordable prices. D Wed-Sun, 6-9; L Sun
only 12-4.30. MC, V, L.
SCARRIFF - When Limerick became more
accessible from the waterways in 2001,
Scarriff ceased to be the most westerly port
on the Shannon inland system, but it is still
Lough Derg’s most westerly harbour. It’s a
no-nonsense sort of place, a little country
town atop a hill with a choice of pubs, a
focal point at The Grainey wholefood &
crafts shop (061 921 265), and a strong
community spirit, seen in activities such as
the farmers markets and other food-related
activities at weekends, which are a good
source of interesting stores for the boat.
The former Bel Pepper restaurant on the
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square has changed hands; at the time of
going to press, it is re-opening as “Wotsits
Place” (061 640804) and is likely to be
open during the day and some evenings
6 days a week (closed Mon). Nearby at
TUAMGRANEY, Paul and Nuala Kilkenny’s
friendly and attractive stone-built ‘Bar &
Eating House’ Teach Uí Bhrian
(061 921 249) offers food daily: Mon-Sat
9am-9.15pm, Sun 12.30-9.
MOUNTSHANNON-DROMAAN
WILLIAMSTOWN-WHITEGATE:
On one of the few south-facing coasts
on any of the main lakes, Mountshannon
prospers in its sunny position. Dromaan
harbour to the east also offers good shelter,
while the little port nearby at Williamstown,
although privately run by a cruiser company,
will make visitors welcome if space is
available. From either harbour you are
within a couple of miles of the village of
Whitegate, with its lively pubs “the music
capital of East Clare”.
MOUNTSHANNON is an attractive,
relaxed village with plenty to recommend
it. Keane’s pub (061 927214), where
traditional music sessions are regularly
held, is a good traditional bar, lounge and
shop and the Mount Shannon Hotel
(061 927162) is a very pleasant village
hotel with open fires, weekend music and
bar food daily.
Shannon Navigation
LD4 An Cupán Caifé,
Mountshannon, Co Clare
061 927275
EAT
Dagmar Hilty’s attractive little cottage
restaurant is simply decorated and
welcoming - ideal for a cup of coffee or a
casual lunch (homemade soups, salads,
pasta), as well as offering more ambitious
set dinners and à la carte menus in the
evenings. The wine list includes well
chosen house wine by the glass. Children
welcome (high chair, children’s menu).
Free wi/fi. Summer hours: D Wed-Sun
6-10.30; L Sun only; seasonal - advisable
to check opening times. MC, V, L.
Northwards through Lough Derg,
Cloondavaun Bay Marina on the Galway
shore is a pleasant rural harbour, giving
access to the Red Oak Restaurant (see
entry). The harbour is privately owned by
Lily and Martin Sullivan (090 974 9227
/ 087 619 7061); although visitors are
welcome, it is necessary to call ahead to
ensure there is space available and there
may be a small charge.
LD5 Red Oak Restaurant,
Clonmoylan, nr Portumna,
Co Galway
087 797 4079 / 090 974 9339
EAT
Anne Hilty’s pretty cottage restaurant near
the marina has a loyal following. Printed
menus offer a range of simple dishes like
oak smoked salmon, spaghetti bolognese
and apple pie with cream. Given
adequate notice, you can have virtually
anything you like for dinner – seafood
platters, loin of lamb – but the big draw
is her nice thick Aberdeen Angus steaks,
which are a snip at €16.90. Half portions
are available at half price too, which many
guests appreciate. Ring well ahead to
check times and make reservations. Open
Tue-Sun 4-9.30/10. No credit cards.
PORTUMNA: The public harbour is south
of the town at the 17th century Castle –
which is located in fine parkland and has
restored gardens – while the hire cruiser
base at the other end of the town is
beside the bridge, about 3/4 mile’s walk.
The Campus garage sells groceries and
has a little coffee bar and, just across the
bridge, The Ferry Inn (090 974 7139)
offers food.
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LD6 Dysons, Patrick Street,
Portumna, Co Galway
090 974 2333
LD7 The Derg Inn,
Terryglass, Co Tipperary
067 22037
About halfway between the public harbour/
Portumna Castle area and the Emerald
Star marina, near the Post Office, John
and Heather Dyson’s bright contemporary
two-storey restaurant lies behind a smart
marble frontage, and has a pleasant decked
area off the main first floor dining area.
Sophisticated cooking at this consistently
pleasing restaurant may include some
dishes with traditional influences - and, not
only does John take pride in sourcing the
best of ingredients locally, with an emphasis
on organic foods and fish brought in daily
from Galway, but the Dysons are now
growing a significant amount of produce
themselves. Reservations recommended.
L & D 12-3 & 5-9.30, closed Mon & Tue.
MC, V, L.
TERRYGLASS-KILGARVAN-COOLBAWN:
The Tipperary shoreline of Lough Derg is
notably prosperous and journeys inland can
be rewarding. At TERRYGLASS village (half
a kilometre from the harbour), you’ll find
The Derg Inn (see entry), and Paddy’s Bar
(067 22147) serves a fine pint as well as
good food (9-12 daily, all year), and has
music Wed-Sun in summer (Saturdays off
season).
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EAT & DRINK
EAT
For its log fire on a chilly day and outdoor
tables in fine weather, The Derg is a
welcome sight after the pleasant walk up
from the harbour. Excellent traditional
Irish dishes like bacon & cabbage and
beef & Guinness pie are a speciality,
also music in summer (usually Friday &
Saturday nights); various styles, traditional
on late Sunday afternoon.
Food daily, 11-10; includes game in
season. Amex, MC, V, L.
The tidy village of BALLINDERRY is two
miles from Kilgarvan harbour, while
Brocka-on-the-Water (see entry) is near
the quayside.
Shannon Navigation
LD8 Brocka-on-the-Water,
Kilgarvan Quay, Co Tipperary
067 22038
COOLBAWN QUAY: this is an attractive
marina village development with berthing
and club facilities (see entry).
EAT
Hens clucking around a well-stocked
garden bode well for your dinner at
Anthony and Anne Gernon’s almost
waterside restaurant. Although the
family home, it’s very much a “proper
restaurant”, with an airy high-ceilinged
conservatory, open fire, comfy chairs, and
aperitifs served in generous wine glasses.
Seasonal menus offer specialities like
deep-fried Cooleeney cheese (made
nearby) with home-made chutney, and
Gaelic steak with home-grown vegetables.
Delicious. Opening weather/demand
determined: probably Fri & Sat D,
possibly other nights – call to check.
Closed Sun, Mon, Wed. Reservations
strongly advised. Wheelchair accessible.
No credit cards.
LD9 Coolbawn Quay,
Nr. Nenagh, Co Tipperary
067 28158
EAT, DRINK & STAY
Quiet, restful and very beautiful, this
private marina and unusual small resort
and mini-spa is modelled on the lines of
a 19th century Irish village. A cosy bar
and restaurant are open to non-resident
boating guests by reservation – cruisers
may call free of charge for meals,
although overnight berthing is about €45.
D Thu-Sat (when there are guests);
not suitable for children after 7pm.
Reservations essential. Amex, MC, V, L.
DROMINEER: One of the Shannon’s
most visited places, popular with cruisers,
anglers and sailing folk alike. Many
regulars head straight for The Whiskey
Still (see entry).
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LD10 The Whiskey Still,
Dromineer, Co Tipperary
067 24129
EAT & DRINK
LD11 Larkins,
Garrykennedy, Co Tipperary
067 23232
EAT & DRINK
This characterful bar is an attractive
old place just up from the harbour, with
a stove in the bar on cold days and
wholesome fare on offer – well-presented,
tasty and served in a relaxed and friendly
atmosphere. For fine weather, there’s a
timber deck facing the water – just the
spot for outdoor dining on long summer
evenings. Food all year: Mon-Fri 5.309.30, Sat & Sun 12.30-9.30 (Sun
bookings only). Summer (May-Sep)
12.30-9.30 daily (Sun bookings only).
MC, V, L.
You can’t miss this pretty white cottage
pub with its cheerful red paintwork.
Daytime bar menus may be a little
predictable (and hearty country portions
are to be expected), but things gear up
for dinner, when you can look forward to
dishes like honey roast duckling and local
steaks – with cheerful, friendly service.
Music at weekends and every Wed in
summer (with Irish dancing). In summer
food 10.30am-9.30pm daily (Sun 12.309.30). Off season, food 5-9. Advisable
to check opening times. MC, V, L.
GARRYKENNEDY: A port of two harbours
and two pubs. The older harbour at the
castle used to shelter Guinness barges as
they voyaged from Dublin towards Limerick
via the Grand Canal, the Shannon and
Lough Derg. The older pub at this
delightful place is Ciss Ryan’s
(067 23364), and the thatched one
(which may seem older than it is) is
Larkins (see entry).
Mid-Shannon Area
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BANAGHER: From Portumna, the route
northward is through a watery and sacred
land, at its best around Meelick where the
ancient chapel merits a visit. After the
wide open spaces, Banagher has much to
offer the visitor and, for those who seek
the ‘real Ireland’ this is an interesting little
town. Pat and Della Horan’s small family
run Brosna Lodge Hotel (057 915 1350)
provides the authentic experience, offering
good food in both bar and restaurant and
genuine hospitality. Good food is also
offered at the friendly Flynn’s Bar and
Restaurant (see entry), and at
Shannon Navigation
Heidi’s Coffee Shop (087 956 2680)
- known for generous helpings of
wholesome food, home baking and good
value. And, of course, there is
J.J. Hough’s (057 915 1893), a
characterful pub renowned for traditional
music and craic.
MS2 The Harbour Masters House,
Shannon Harbour, Banagher,
Co Offaly
057 915 1532
STAY
MS1 Flynn’s Bar and Restaurant,
Main Street, Banagher, Co Offaly
057 915 1312
EAT & DRINK
Established in 1914, this welcoming
family-run pub and restaurant has
come a long way since it started off as
a traditional grocery-bar, but it has lost
none of its friendly appeal. An open fire
immediately makes visitors feel at home
in the cosy bar - and their steaks are
renowned. Music at weekends. L daily,
12.30-3; D 5-9 (to 10 in summer), à la
carte. All major credit cards accepted.
SHANNON HARBOUR: The major
refurbishment of this historic waterways
port where the Grand Canal meets the
lordly Shannon has provided a fresh sense
of purpose. The charming and hospitable
Harbour Masters House B&B (see entry)
is right beside the harbour and wellsigned. Nearby, you will find the Canal
Bar, and McIntyre’s (057 915 1493),
a classic inland waterways pub run by
Dermot & Shirley McIntyre, with a little
grocery, pub grub, and music in summer.
If a B&B in a quiet and picturesque waterside
setting with a pub serving good food only
yards away takes your fancy, you won’t do
better than Grainne Kirwan’s attractive period
house beside the harbour. Built in 1806,
the name of this impressive 3-storey house
is far from fanciful as Grainne’s father was
the harbour master when she was growing up
here, and – although it has been modernised
where necessary to provide all the necessary
comforts - this delightful place is full of
history. B&B about €35pps.
Closed 10 Dec-1 Apr. MC, V, L.
BALLINASLOE: The re-establishment of
a waterways link westward to this market
town in County Galway added an extra
dimension to cruising in this area. The first
marina nearing Ballinasloe is at Moycarn,
where Moycarn Lodge (090 964 5050)
offers full bar and restaurant facilities (bar
meals daily from 12.30; restaurant open
Thu-Sun evenings) and free overnight
berthing for guests. The Ballinasloe
marina itself is beside the town centre,
where there’s a handy supermarket.
Wholesome food is to be found at the
surprisingly named Kariba’s Restaurant
(090 964 4830) on Society Street,
75
which is deservedly popular for its good
value, with daytime food (Mon-Sat) and
evening meals (Thu-Sat), available all year
round. The modern Carlton Shearwater
Hotel is at Marina Point – which, despite
the name (and proximity to the harbour,
now filled in) is pretty much in the town
centre; in line with other Carlton Hotels, it
offers good facilities. Ballinasloe Farmers
Market is held every Friday, 9am-2pm
(Croffy Centre, Main Street).
SHANNONBRIDGE: There are ancient
river crossings in this area, where eskers
from the ice age run east and west across
the north-south line of the river. The
bridge at Shannonbridge is one of the
most impressive of all, and at Killeen’s
wonderful pub (aka The Village Tavern,
090 967 4112) weary travellers can be
restored – the house special is hot rum
and chocolate! – and there’s music too.
MS3 The Old Fort,
Shannonbridge,
Co Roscommon
090 967 4973
EAT
On the Roscommon side of the bridge
linking Offaly and Roscommon, Fergal
Moran’s impressive, lovingly restored
Napoleonic fort is a fascinating place
in which to enjoy a meal. There’s a
welcoming open fire and comfy seating in
the large brick-floored reception/bar area
and, upstairs, interesting, well-cooked
meals are served in a pair of candle-lit
dining rooms with modern table settings
and crisp white napkins. Early dinner
menus offer great value. Closed in winter
and opening weather/demand dependent
so phone to check, but probably D WedSun from 5pm, L Sun only. Daytime
coffee shop Jul & Aug, from 12.30.
MC, V, L.
CLONMACNOISE: A place to linger and
reflect. Every monument and every ruin at
the riverside site of this ancient monastic
city is eloquent of a sacred and intensely
spiritual past which continues to speak
to the present. For bodily sustenance,
there’s a coffee shop open in summer.
76
Shannon Navigation
ATHLONE: This bustling, youthful centre
town of Ireland has urban vitality and an
ever-increasing awareness of the river’s
significance – and, although other towns
along the mighty Shannon will no doubt be
keen to mount a challenge, it is seen by
many as the culinary capital of the inland
waterways, with a cluster of great eating
places (see a selection below) in the town
and surrounding area. Too many, in fact,
to mention here, but they include the
entertaining pub and informal restaurant
mix of Gertie Browne’s (090 647 4848)
pub, known for live music, and its restaurant
Hatter’s Lane Bistro (090 647 3077),
which is around the corner or down the
stairs through the pub, depending on
where you start off. Nearby is the intimate
restaurant, Thyme (090 647 8850),
open for lunch & dinner daily, delicious
food at affordable prices’ is owner-chef
John Coffey’s stated aim, and he takes
pride in showcasing carefully sourced local
ingredients.
The town is gaining a reputation for good
ethnic restaurants too: lovers of spicy foods
should check out Kin Khao Thai Restaurant
(090 649 8805) in Abbey Lane, where
you will find some of the country’s finest
Thai food and hospitality, and Al Mezza
(090 649 8765), formerly of Jamestown
Co Leitrim, nearby on Bastion Street. Also
nearby, on the quayside near the Norman
castle, you’ll find a characterful restaurant,
The Locke (090 649 4517) in a converted
riverside church. And don’t miss one of
Ireland’s best-loved pubs, Sean’s Bar (090
649 2358), for real atmosphere: all owners
since 1630 are on record, and they serve
an excellent pint. Hotels include the famous
Prince of Wales Hotel (090 647 7246),
thriving once again in the centre of the
town after a recent rebuild, a more recent
arrival is the landmark Sheraton Athlone
Hotel (090 645 1000), adjoining the new
shopping centre, and, just out of town on
the Roscommon side, is the (very) large and
beautifully located waterside Hodson Bay
Hotel (see entry, Lough Ree Circuit).
MS4 The Olive Grove,
Custume Pier, Athlone,
Co Westmeath
090 647 6946
EAT
Garry Hughes and Gael Bradbury’s
impressive modern waterfront premises
overlooks the castle and, with windows
all along the riverside, it may well have
the best location of any restaurant
on the Shannon. Spacious and chic,
a major feature is the riverside deck
(partially covered by an awning, although
sometimes closed in unsuitable weather).
Menus include a lot of local produce, food
is carefully cooked and stylishly presented,
and the friendly staff and long opening
hours make this place especially worth
knowing about. Children welcome (nice
kids menu). Free Wifi. Open from noon
daily in summer, L 12-4.30, D 5-10.
Check times off season. Amex, MC, V, L.
77
MS5 Radisson Blu Hotel,
Athlone, Co Westmeath
090 644 2600
EAT, DRINK & STAY
Magnificently located in the heart of the
town, this riverside hotel has style: an
expansive foyer leads into an informal
split level restaurant – and opens out
onto a huge riverside deck overlooking the
marina. The usual Radisson attributes of
contemporary chic at an accessible price
apply, plus lively modern food, imaginative
use of a great location and easy accessibility
to shops and other facilities. Children
welcome. B&B from about €40pps. Meals
available all day. Amex, D, MC, V, L.
78
MS6 The Left Bank Bistro,
Bastion Street,
Athlone, Co Westmeath
090 649 4446
EAT
Although not visible from the river, Annie
McNamara and Mary McCullagh’s buzzy
contemporary restaurant is close to the
west bank. Bare tables and paper napkins
convey the laid back style that suits their
lively multicultural food: delicious fish
and vegetarian specials are listed on a
blackboard, and more-ish desserts overlap
into the light ‘between-meal’ menus.
Open Tue-Sat, L 12-5 & D 5.00-9.30.
Closed Sun & Mon, Good Friday/Easter
weekend. Amex, MC, V, L.
Shannon Navigation
Place of interest
Cycle Hire
Lough Key/Lough Allen (LKA)
Dayboat Hire
Watersports
Cruiser/Barge Hire
Mooring
Boat Trips
Tourist Information
Office
1
2
Upper Shannon Area (US)
5 6 7 8
4
3
1 2
2 3
1
4 5 6 7
Lough Ree Circuit (LR)
3
79
Lough Ree Circuit
(clockwise from Athlone)
LOUGH REE: Lough Ree’s gentle shoreline
gives it a different character to Lough Derg
– some sailing enthusiasts would suggest
that it provides steadier breezes for their
sport. Its sailing history goes back to
1770 and beyond, much older than Lough
Derg’s official date of 1835.
LECARROW: Hidden on Lough Ree’s
western shore, a little canal leads to the
sheltered harbour of Lecarrow; Coffey’s
pub (090 666 1118) is the sailors’ haven
and there’s music in summer.
LR2 The Yew Tree,
Lecarrow, Co Roscommon
090 666 1255
EAT
HODSON’S BAY: The Hodson Bay Hotel
(see entry) fronts onto a public harbour on
Lough Ree and is adjacent to Athlone Golf
Club.
LR1 Hodson Bay Hotel,
Hodson’s Bay, Co Roscommon
090 644 2000
EAT, DRINK & STAY
Strategically located to serve the west and
the east of Ireland, and the lake too, with
considerable style, this (very) large hotel
has excellent leisure facilities. Bar food
is standard fare, but there’s a choice of
dining options, including the contemporary
Octagon restaurant, with lake view, and
– although the tables are tightly packed
together in this large restaurant - in the
Guide’s experience the food offered in
l’Escale restaurant is generally above
average. B&B from about €49pps.
L & D daily; restaurant (reservations
required). Amex, D, MC, V, L.
80
Just a short walk up from the attractive
little harbour, Nicola Slattery and Aidan
Murray’s smartly presented restaurant
is deservedly popular. Open from
lunchtime onwards in the second half of
the week, it’s a friendly and welcoming
place, offering generous portions on a
short à la carte lunch menu during the
afternoon – good soups and salads,
traditional Irish stew, perhaps – with more
elaborate dishes in the evening, including
good steaks, fresh fish and imaginative
vegetables. Open 12.30-9, Wed-Sun.
MC, V, L.
Shannon Navigation
LR3 St Johns House,
Rinnagan, Lecarrow,
Co Roscommon
090 666 1748
EAT & STAY
A short distance from Lecarrow village, in
a beautiful waterside location overlooking
Lough Ree, this lovely understated late
Georgian country house is one of Ireland’s
best kept secrets. When arriving at this
peaceful and welcoming place, with
its kitchen garden, hen house, friendly
donkeys and a garden bench inviting you
to sit down and enjoy the view, it’s hard
to credit that it’s only 90 minutes drive
from Dublin or Knock airports. As owners
Richard and Liz Collins say themselves,
“it’s the perfect place to relax and recharge the batteries”. Simply magical, and
with many lovely places to visit too. B&B
about €40pps, dinner & packed lunch
available by arrangement. Closed OctMar unless by arrangement. No credit
cards (cash or Paypal.)
KILLINURE POINT: An easy stroll from
Peter Quigley’s marina on the east shore
brings you to the Killinure Chalets among
the trees, where the Irish-German Fishing
Club (090 648 5155; open end Mar-end
Oct, Wed-Mon, 6-10; closed Tue. MC, V,
L) is renowned for its wholesome food;
German is spoken here.
GLASSON-BALLYKEERAN: The
exceptionally pleasant southeast corner of
Lough Ree has many inlets and sheltered
places. It’s a choice area, reflecting a
discerning quality of life – and the nearest
part of the Shannon Navigation to Dublin.
Being popular with boat owners from
the capital, berthing can be very limited,
particularly at weekends. However, the
Glasson Golf Hotel (see entry) welcomes
visitors to its marina, and there is also
a commercial marina at Ballykeeran,
where the Lakeside Marina opened 150
additional berths in 2010. Grogan’s
Pub (090 648 5158), in Glasson village
(Goldsmith’s “village of the roses”) was
established in 1750 and retains its old
world charm; informal food is available at
the back in ‘Nannie Murph’s’.
81
LR4 Glasson Country Hotel & Golf
Club, Glasson, Co Westmeath,
090 648 5120
EAT, DRINK & STAY
Beautifully situated overlooking Lough
Ree and its own harbour – where visiting
cruisers coming to the hotel may berth –
the original building (now the clubhouse)
was once the Reid family’s home.
It’s a lovely place to stay and nonresidents are also made very welcome
on the golf course, in the bar (food
daily 8am-9.30pm) and the Lakeside
Restaurant - but taxis to Glasson village
are also willingly arranged.
B&B from about €50pps. Food
from 7.30am, bar menu from noon.
Restaurant D 6.30-9. Amex, D, MC, V, L.
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LR5 Glasson Village Restaurant,
Glasson, Co Westmeath
090 648 5001
EAT
Chef-proprietor Michael Brooks opened
in this attractive stone building in 1986,
making him the area’s culinary pioneer.
There’s a real country atmosphere, with
old pine furniture and a conservatory
which is particularly pleasant for Sunday
lunch. Michael’s cooking is seasonal,
imaginative and fairly traditional; fresh
fish features strongly, including shellfish
in season and freshwater fish from
Lough Ree. D Tue-Sat 5.30-9.30 (from
6 on Sat); L Sun only, 12-2.30. Early
D midweek (good value). Reservations
advised. Amex, MC, V, L.
Shannon Navigation
LR6 The Fatted Calf,
090 648 5208
EAT & DRINK
Feargal O’Donnell and his wife, Fiona,
have made this charming pub a
destination for food lovers. Feargal is
a prominent Euro-Toques chef who is
well known throughout Ireland for his
commitment to seasonal and local foods.
Their informal style, with food that offers
a timely combination of gastro-pub and
contemporary fine dining in a familyfriendly atmosphere, is bang on the nail
and there’s outdoor seating and plenty
of space for children to run around. L &
D Tue-Sat, 12.30-4.30 & 6-9.30, (Sun
1-4 & 6-9). No food on Mon except bank
hols. Amex, MC, V, L.
LR7 Wineport Lodge,
090 648 5466
EAT & STAY
Berthing is available for guests dining at Ray
Byrne and Jane English’s luxurious lakeside
hotel (limited space, so phone ahead). The
chic contemporary restaurant and stunning
view make a great setting for Chef Cathal
Moran’s modern seasonal menus, which
feature the best local ingredients including
Irish Angus beef, game in season and
home-grown herbs. Local suppliers are
named on menus, and an excellent wine list
makes interesting reading. B&B from about
€85pps, specials frequently offered.
Lounge menu 12-9. D daily 5.30-10, L
Sun only 2-4.30. Reservations strongly
advised. Amex, D, MC, V, L.
Upper Shannon Area
LANESBOROUGH: With its peat-fired power
station, Lanesborough is a workaday sort
of place. It is possible to pass straight
through from Lough Ree and all the way
up the Shannon to Tarmonbarry before
a lock makes for a mandatory stop, so
Lanesborough is not a major port, though
its little harbour invites a visit – and a
newer harbour is now available on the
west shore, at the top of the lake, with a
couple of pubs nearby at the crossroads
at Ballyclare. In the river there’s a private
marina, on the west bank.
83
TARMONBARRY: The main highway
from Mayo crosses the Shannon here,
so the pubs of Tarmonbarry (see entries
for Keenans and The Purple Onion) are
well accustomed to restoring the weary
traveller, whether by river or road.
US2 The Purple Onion,
Tarmonbarry, Co Roscommon
043 335 9919
EAT & DRINK
US1 Keenans,
Tarmonbarry, Co Roscommon
043 332 6052
EAT, DRINK & STAY
A favourite watering hole for river folk,
this hospitable family-run hotel beside the
bridge was the 2011 winner of our Taste
of the Waterways Award. Known for good
wholesome food and cheerful, efficient
service, it offers informal bar meals all day;
bar specials might include fish casserole
or bacon & cabbage at lunch, half roast
duckling for dinner, perhaps (and the
steak sandwich is not to be missed). The
hotel’s Shannonside Restaurant is in a
bright, new tall-windowed room on the
waterside corner of the building and offers
a more formal evening dining option –
and, upstairs, there is smart en-suite
accommodation to match. B&B from
about €55pps. Food daily: 11.30-8.45,
L 12-3; D 5.30-8.45. Restaurant closed
D Sun. Closed Good Fri. Amex, MC, V, L.
84
This unusual art gallery-cum-pub/restaurant
has an olde world feeling with dark wood
and bric-à-brac, and good original paintings
adding interest and charm. It can get very
busy in the evening but menus offer an
impressive choice for a small restaurant,
and may include some unusual dishes like
an artisan charcuterie platter alongside
popular choices like sirloin and T-bone
steaks – and listed suppliers include
organic producers. The gallery represents
some of Ireland’s finest artists, and can
be opened at any time to view. Open:
Tue-Sat, 5.30-9.30, Sun 12.30-7.30.
Reservations strongly recommended,
especially at peak times. MC, V, L.
ROOSKEY: Mooring facilities are available
between the Lock at Rooskey and the
lifting bridge at the centre of the village.
DROMOD: A proper little harbour, and a
neat village too: Cox’s (071 963 8234)
gable wall says it all.
Shannon Navigation
US3 Harkins,
Dromod Harbour, Dromod,
Co Leitrim
071 965 8718
US4 The Cottage Restaurant,
Jamestown, Co Leitrim
071 962 5933
EAT
EAT
Adrian and Emma Harkins’ appealing
harbourside restaurant is in a lovely setting
and, although it is a new build, it fits into
its surroundings remarkably well – and
the stylishly appointed restaurant opens
onto a large outdoor seating area close
to the harbour, where tables are set up in
fine weather. Emma is the chef, and you
may expect quality seasonal ingredients
and good sense in the cooking. Children
welcome during the day (not after 6pm)
Open: Wed- Sun 12-9. Closed 1 Nov 28 Feb. Reservations recommended.
Amex, Diners, MC, V, L.
CARNADOE WATERS: Enchanting
waterways, pleasantly remote. Down
towards Strokestown – also worth visiting
– the nearest landing is at Grange, where
you will find the Silver Eel Pub (071 963
3299).
JAMESTOWN AND DRUMSNA: Drumsna
has Duignan’s (071 962 4703) as its
social centre, while Jamestown has its
famous “semi-detached pubs” and a
good restaurant, The Cottage (see entry).
Cruising folk, enjoying the traffic free
peace that by-passes have brought, can
savour all of these.
The winner of the Taste of the Waterways
Award in 2012, proprietor chef, Shamzuri
Hanifa, offers modern European and Asian
food with real finesse at this cheerful
white-washed restaurant on the edge
of the pretty village of Jamestown; from
the quay, it’s a pleasant half mile walk
through the village – pavement all the way
and past two particularly enticing pubs.
Offering great food and service, plenty
of atmosphere and good value this is an
understandably popular little restaurant
so, although reservations are not
essential, it can be very busy and it would
be wise to book, especially at weekends.
D Wed-Sun 6-10, L Sun only 12-4.
MC, V, L.
CARRICK-ON-SHANNON: The busy capital
of the north Shannon is cosmopolitan
in its outlook, with a growing range
of restaurants and some fascinating
shops: the Market Yard Centre is a good
browsing spot and it’s right at the heart
of this vibrant town, and the hub of local
activities including an excellent Farmers
Market (Thu), a Crafts Market (Sat), and
many special events.
85
Restaurants in this area include The
Courtyard Kitchen Café & Wine Bar
(071 967 1894), serving tasty informal
food from 12 noon daily. Lovers of spicy
food should enjoy the long-established
Indian restaurant, Shamrat
(071 965 0934), on Bridge Street and,
just beside the bridge, at Cryan’s Bar
(071 962 0409) you’ll find music – the
restaurant, known for steaks, has moved
into their new hotel alongside. The two
main hotels – The Bush Hotel
(071 962 0014), much loved for its
friendliness and warmth (with comfortingly
traditional food and delightfully courteous
service from local staff in the restaurant),
and The Landmark Hotel (see entry),
provide for traditional and international
tastes, respectively. Moorings with 28
berths are available just across the road
from the Landmark.
US5 The Oarsman,
Bridge Street,
Carrick-on-Shannon, Co Leitrim
071 962 1733
EAT & DRINK
The winner of the GCGuides/Waterways
Ireland inaugural Taste of the Waterways
Award in 2009, the Maher family’s pub is
outstanding in every way: spick-and-span,
welcoming and efficiently run, even at the
busiest times, it is just the kind of place
visitors hope to find.
86
A cosy fire and comfortable seating
maximize enjoyment of the excellent
meals produced by a strong kitchen team,
and there’s a sheltered beer garden at the
back, which makes a nice spot for a sunny
day. Bar meals Tue-Sat 12-8 L 12-3; D
5-8; Restaurant D Thu-Sat 6.45-9.15.
Reservations recommended, even for bar
food, at busier times. Amex, MC, V, L.
US6 Vittos Italian Restaurant &
Wine Bar,
Market Yard Centre,
071 962 7000
EAT
This attractive stone-built restaurant is a
friendly place offering an extensive menu
of pizza, pasta, salads and chargrilled
steaks, chicken dishes, burgers and
more traditional Irish dishes - all freshly
prepared in-house and cooked to order,
plus a full bar. Very family friendly, and
(useful to know on a cruising holiday) - all
menu items are also available to take
away. Outdoor seating in summer; toilets
wheelchair accessible. D Tue-Fri 5.30-9;
Sat & Sun all day, 12.30-10.30.
MC, V, L.
Shannon Navigation
US7 Victoria Hall,
071 962 0320
EAT
This stylish contemporary restaurant is in
an imaginatively restored and converted
almost-waterside Victorian building,
beside the Rowing Club. Bright, colourful
and classy, it’s an appealing space and
the first floor dining space is especially
attractive. The menu is broadly Asian, but
with some occasional local influences – a
tasty dish of boxty (potato pancake) with
bacon & cabbage, for example, and good
brown soda bread - and well-executed
meals are served by smart, attentive staff.
Long opening hours and good value make
this a useful place to know about.
Open 12.30-10 daily. MC, V, L.
US8 Landmark Hotel,
Dublin Road, Carrick-on-Shannon,
Co Leitrim
071 962 2222
EAT, DRINK & STAY
Informal daytime meals at this almost
riverside hotel are offered in Aromas Café,
where Afternoon Tea is a speciality – and
also in the balcony dining area, Boardwalk
Café, named after the riverside boardwalk
across the road. Casual food, including
the homemade pies that are another
speciality of the hotel, is the style for
lunch; in the evening it becomes more
formal, with a more upbeat menu to
match, and the electric blue lighting that
is a feature of the bar and dining areas
comes into its own. B&B from about
€50pps. Aromas Café, 9-6; Boardwalk
Café L 12-4, D 5-9 daily. Amex, MC, V, L.
Lough Key/Lough Allen Circuit
There are many waterways and lakes in this
section of the Navigation, so we take Lough
Key and Lough Allen together, though
they are inland seas, lakes or waterways
of very different types. Lough Key is a
pretty island-studded sort of place, while
Lough Allen is decidedly rugged though
handsome, with the iron mountain of Slieve
Anierin to the east, and the old coal hills of
Arigna to the west.
87
COOTEHALL – a visit to Henry’s
(071 966 7030) unspoilt old pub has
always been a must.
LKA1 Bruno’s Restaurant,
Knockvicar,
near Cootehhall, Boyle,
Co Roscommon
071 966 7788
EAT
traditional fare (lunch and evening meals)
and on Bridge Street, Creighton’s Bar
(071 966 2469) is a delightful spot for
a drink; a true Irish pub, it’s a mine of
information with nicknacks filling every nook
and cranny – a hard place to leave. Right
on the bridge (well, in the river actually),
The Stone House Café is a dramatically
situated riverside daytime restaurant serving
wholesome food and good coffee, There is
also a café, Aunty Bee’s Tearooms (086
8867041), in King House and, should you
be visiting the nearby Lough Key Forest &
Activity Park, the Lakeside Café (071 967
3122) offers snacks and hot meals, with
outside seating for fine weather.
LKA2 Lough Key House,
Boyle, Co Roscommon
071 966 2161
Bruno Boe’s attractively located
contemporary marina-side restaurant
is equally popular with local diners
and boating visitors. Expect an Italian
welcome, real Italian cooking – and fair
prices. Service can be slow, but the
appealing overall package keeps everyone
coming back. D Wed-Mon 6-“late”, L
Sun only, from 1pm; closed Tue. Early
D €19; also à la carte. Reservations
required; advisable to ring and check
opening hours, especially off season.
Amex, MC, V, L.
LOUGH KEY offers many choices. BOYLE
has its own harbour, 800m from the town
where there are fine music pubs including
Kate Lavins, the Abbey Bar
(071 966 3333), and The Moving Stairs
(071 966 3586) a cosy old country pub/
restaurant on The Crescent, known for
friendly staff, and good tasty food as well
as live music. Clarke’s Restaurant &
Bar (071 966 2064) also offers good
88
STAY
Just west of the entrance to Lough Key
Forest Park, a black iron double-gated
entrance leads to Frances McDonagh’s
lovely small Georgian residence, Lough
Key House. Ideally placed to explore this
wonderful and surprisingly little known
area, it’s very handy to the characterful
old town of Boyle and only a short 10km
run to bustling Carrick-on-Shannon – and
you couldn’t wish for a more comfortable
or hospitable base for a break.
The rooms are gorgeous - and all different
– and breakfast is delicious. B&B from
€42.50pps. MC, V, L.
Shannon Navigation
LOUGH ALLEN has only relatively recently
joined the Shannon Navigation on a fulltime basis, as it was previously used as
the reservoir to maintain water supplies
to the lower reaches of the river and for
Ardnascrusha Hydro-electric Station way
downriver. Lough Allen Canal is entered
at Battlebridge, where Joe Beirne’s
(071 962 0802) is a classic country
pub offering wholesome food, great pints
and traditional music; outside there’s a
lovely friendly small caravan and camping
park complete with barbecue area and –
following a visit from Francis and John “At
Your Service” Brennan, some luxurious
‘glamping’ tents too! Shore facilities
on Lough Allen are steadily improving,
with berthing at Spencer Harbour in the
northwest corner, and a summer harbour
on the east shore at Cleighran More.
But the main focal point continues to
be DRUMSHANBO, which may be most
conveniently reached from Acres Lake on
the waterway south of the town.
A town of many pubs, we like the unspoilt
Conway’s Corner House (071 964
1020), where you can buy the papers and
read them in front of the fire. Just outside
the town, the modern Lough Allen Hotel
& Spa (see entry) offers a wide range of
amenities and there are plans for a small
marina beside the hotel.
LKA3 Ramada Hotel at Lough
Allen,
Drumshanbo, Co Leitrim,
071 964 0100
EAT, DRINK & STAY
Although not especially impressive
from the outside, this contemporary
hotel should soon win you over with its
appealing modern decor, lough views
and friendly staff. Pleasing informal
meals are served in the high-ceilinged
Drumlin Bar, which hedges weather bets
with a deck and an open fire; dinner
is in Rushes Restaurant which, oddly,
does not overlook the lough. Water
sports and other activities are available
at the Lough Allen Sailing Centre and
Adventure Centre respectively, and horse
riding or pony trekking can be arranged
at the nearby Moorlands Equestrian &
Leisure Centre (071 964 1500). B&B
from about €40pps. Bar meals, all
day. Restaurant: D Mon-Sat, L Sun only.
Amex, D, MC, V, L.
89
SHANNON-ERNE WATERWAY:
Things to See & Do Along the Way
Linking Ireland’s two great waterways the Shannon Navigation and the Erne
System - since its restoration in 1994,
the Shannon-Erne Waterway runs 63km
between Leitrim Village and Belturbet.
It’s a wonderful amenity, enjoyed by
thousands of people afloat and ashore.
The canal is teeming with fish and
there is good ANGLING along its entire
length, with the pretty little town of
Ballyconnell especially famous as a
coarse fishing centre. This area is also
a walkers’ and cyclists paradise - the
scenic BALLYCONNELL CANAL WALK
loops through woodland and follows
some sections of the canal, and The
KINGFISHER CYCLE TRAIL (www.
discovernorthernireland.com/kingfisher)
follows a figure-of-eight through varied
countryside around the many lakes.
The first long-distance cycle trail to be
developed in Ireland, it is mapped and
signposted, with the smaller sections
suitable for a morning’s ride and family
outings.
Other outdoor activities well catered for
in the area include GOLF - the Slieve
Russell Hotel, Ballyconnell, attracts
many golfing visitors to the area and at
90
the Ballinamore Golf Club, alongside the
Shannon-Erne Waterway, having water on
two fronts adds to the difficulty of many
holes.
The area’s many archaeological sites
include the AUGHRIM WEDGE TOMB,
dating from 2700BC to 1700BC, which
was relocated from its original site on
Slieve Rushen mountain and is now in
the grounds of the nearby Slieve Russell
Hotel.
Social and cultural history is especially
well documented in the area, with two
especially interesting collections near
Ballinamore – Leitrim’s only museum
is a remarkable private collection, THE
GLENVIEW FOLK MUSEUM, at
Glenview House (see entry) and
THE MUSEUM OF THE MASTER
SADDLER (086 394 6467;
museumofthemastersaddler.com), at
Corlough, Co Cavan, is the world’s only
museum dedicated to the ancient craft
of the Saddler and Harness Maker.
Shannon-ErneNavigation
Waterway
Also at Ballinamore, LEITRIM GENEALOGY
CENTRE (www.leitrimroots.com) helps
the descendants of the many Leitrim
exiles to trace their ancestry; the
LEITRIM ROOTS GENEALOGY FESTIVAL
is held each spring. At Ballyconnell,
visitors can discover West Cavan’s rich
cultural heritage at BALLYHUGH ARTS &
CULTURAL CENTRE; their programme of
events includes the LUGHNASA FESTIVAL
– and a MIDSUMMER NIGHT CÉILÍ and
BONFIRE is also held at Ballyconnell.
For a family outing with a difference,
find out everything about teddy bears at
BEAR ESSENTIALS (049 952 3461)
at Bawnboy, west of Ballyconnell; it has
a unique collection of limited edition
teddy bears and visitors can watch the
handcrafting process, or participate in
workshops.
discoverireland.com
91
SHANNON-ERNE WATERWAY
Place of interest
Cycle Hire
Dayboat Hire
Watersports
Cruiser/Barge Hire
Mooring
Boat Trips
4
Tourist Information
Office
5
2
6
3
1
SHANNON-ERNE WATERWAY:
This “modern” waterway is based on the
line of the old Ballinamore-Ballyconnell
Canal, but state-of-the-art hydroelectrically
operated locks and other refinements
reflect the investment and planning which
went into re-connecting the Shannon and
the Erne. Lough Scur at the mid-point is
the summit level, so though the Shannon
runs downstream in a broadly southern
direction, with the Erne it’s the other way.
The nearer you get to the Erne, the more
convoluted the waterways become, so for
convenience, we take Belturbet as being
the northeast end of the Shannon-Erne
Waterway, and detail Upper and Lower
Lough Erne as a circuit.
92
LEITRIM VILLAGE is an attractive little
place and, although the road traffic
seems to race through when you’re at
boat speed, there is a towpath walk. The
Barge Steakhouse (071 962 0807) is
an inviting stone bar and restaurant; the
lovely front bar has a welcoming open fire
and, behind it, a large restaurant opens
onto a garden where there is plenty of
seating - steaks are the speciality and
they hold barbecues in summer. The
former Leitrim Inn has now become
Leitrim Lodge (071 962 1040), offering
special packages for stag and hen parties
and groups.
Waterway
KILCLARE is a couple of hours cruise up
from Carrick-on-Shannon – just a handy
distance to feel like a coffee and a stretch
ashore, and the attractive canalside
Lynch’s Bar (071 964 1814) – it’s
The Sheemore from the road – can also
provide grocery and hardware; not really a
food place (although snacks are available)
but you can relax in the bar, or sit outside
at the back in fine weather and watch the
boats going by.
KESHCARRIGAN has craic aplenty and
great music on Thursday evenings at Des
Foley’s famous friendly pub Gertie’s (071
964 2252), which also offers ‘all-day
breakfast’.
1 Canal View Restaurant
Keshcarrigan Co Leitrim
071 964 2111
10 berths available free to customers.
Guests from all over the world just love it.
Open Fri-Sat 6-10, Sun 4-8 in summer;
also other nights if there are bookings.
BALLINAMORE’S pubs include The Poor
Scholar which is handy to the quay. Also
attractive is Smyth’s Pub
(071 964 4955) across the road; they
arrange a rota for nightly music.
2 Glenview House & Restaurant,
Aughoo Bridge, Ballinamore,
Co Leitrim
071 964 4157
EAT & STAY
EAT & STAY
Overlooking the canal and a small marina,
just across the road, this well known
restaurant is now run by an enthusiastic
owner/manager, Steve Taylor, who provides
a personal dining experience that puts as
much emphasis on customer enjoyment
as on the quality of the home cooked food
– which is based on fresh, seasonal local
produce (suppliers credited). He thinks up
all kinds of events (can even do weddings
- ‘chapel on site’), live music on Friday
nights, partnerships with local B&Bs - and
Both locals and holidaymakers enjoy
visiting Brian and Teresa Kennedy’s farm
guesthouse which, unusually, not only
offers good food (and accommodation),
but also Leitrim’s only museum. For
a token entrance fee you can revel in
Glenview Folk Museum’s extraordinary
private collection of over 7,000 antique,
historical and novel rural artefacts, ranging
from pre-famine Ireland to the recent past
– well worth a detour! In the evening,
both overnight guests and non-resident
diners congregate in the bar before being
seated at formally-laid tables in the large
dining room, where traditional 5-course
dinners are served – and a piano suggests
93
that parties have been known to happen
here. B&B from about €40pps. Dinner
is offered daily, 6-8.30, but opening
depends on demand; L Sun, 1-3;
reservations essential. Museum open 7
days (small charge). MC, V.
3 Riversdale Farm Guesthouse,
Ballinamore, Co Leitrim
071 964 4122
EAT & STAY
Attractively situated on rising ground,
overlooking the Shannon-Erne Waterway,
the Thomas family’s farm guesthouse is an
unusual establishment surrounded by their
80 acre farm. The house was built on
quite a grand scale and looks impressive
against a background of mature trees as
you approach. Inside, the tone is that of
a homely B&B rather than country house,
which is totally appropriate for a farm
guesthouse - so the exceptional amenities
offered are a surprise: they include a small
but well-maintained leisure complex with
indoor heated swimming pool, fitness
suite, squash court, and a loft with table
tennis (ideal for teenagers), as well as the
colourful barges moored below the house,
which Riversdale offer for holidays afloat.
B&B €35 pps, D available for residents.
Closed Dec & Jan. MC, V, L.
94
BALLYCONNELL is a pretty little town with
many temptations to linger. The Angler’s
Rest (049 952 6391) bar & restaurant
is popular and offers food, while Molly
Maguire’s (049 952 6153) is the place
for music. A couple of miles from the
bridge, the huge Slieve Russell Hotel
(049 952 6444) offers many facilities
including golf.
4 Pól O’D,
Ballyconnell, Co Cavan
049 952 6228
EAT
Paul and Geraldine O’Dowd’s cottagey
restaurant is in two atmospheric olde
worlde ground floor rooms, and a newer,
brighter one upstairs. Many of Paul’s
dishes have become house specialities –
goat’s cheese and red onion marmalade,
for example, crispy duck, and a trio of
seafood with prawn & vermouth sauce
are also typical, also very enjoyable
homemade desserts. The surroundings
are relaxing, and matched by friendly,
helpful service under Geraldine’s
supervision. Children welcome.
Wheelchair accessible. D Thu-Sat 6.309.30, also D Sun on bank hol w/e only.
Amex, MC, V, L.
Waterway
BELTURBET is a bustling place, where
facilities abound. There are a number
of restaurants in the town and you’ll find
good food and accommodation at the
Seven Horseshoes (see entry).
6 The Seven Horseshoes,
Belturbet, Co Cavan
049 952 2166
EAT, DRINK & STAY
5 International Fishing Centre,
Belturbet, Loughdooley, Co Cavan
049 952 2616
EAT, DRINK & STAY
The Neuville family’s International Fishing
Centre has a restaurant which is mainly for
residents but is also open to non-residents
coming in off the river and, like the rest
of the operation, it is very French. There
are pontoons at the bottom of the garden
where the menu is displayed – and, when
the weather allows, tables are set out on
the terrace. Reservations advised. Dinner
7-9pm daily in fishing season only (MarMay & Sep-Nov). MC, V.
This town-centre pub with accommodation
oozes character, with its unique wattle
hurdle ceiling and welcoming open fire.
Expect hearty home cooking (in the bar or
first floor restaurant) at reasonable prices:
steaks, mixed grills and pan-fried plaice
are the order of the day. Just right for
appetites fired up by plenty of fresh air.
Accommodation is also offered, in simple,
comfortably appointed modern en-suite
rooms. B&B about €50pps. Meals daily:
L 12.30-4; D 4-9. Reservations advised,
especially at weekends. Amex, MC, V, L.
95
Dining On
Board
Going ashore to eat is always fun, but
dining on board is also a major part of
any boating holiday experience. Modern
cruisers are equipped with everything
needed to cook a full meal – and, as
excellent ingredients can be bought at
every little town along the waterways,
memorable meals can be made very
easily. Keeping it simple suits the holiday
mood, so why not try one of these easy
dishes – it could be the highlight of your
holiday!
Bacon & Bean Stew
This is an easy dish to prepare and it
makes a tasty ‘meal in a soup bowl’
suitable for any time of day.
96
Serves 4
450g/1lb good quality bacon pieces,
diced; or use a shoulder joint, trimmed
and diced
1 onion, finely chopped
2 leeks, trimmed & chopped
2 carrots, peeled & chopped
4-6 potatoes, peeled & chopped
1-2 cloves garlic, chopped
Sprig of thyme (if available)
1 can of butterbeans, drained
Freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon of cream (optional)
1-2 tablespoon parsley, chopped
Place the bacon in a large saucepan.
Cover with cold water, bring to the boil,
then pour off the water. Rinse the bacon
and return to the pan. Cover again with
cold water and add the onion, leeks,
carrots, potatoes, garlic and thyme.
Bring to the boil. Reduce the heat and
simmer gently for about 40 minutes, or
until the vegetables are tender. Stir in the
beans, black pepper, cream and parsley
and simmer for a further 10-15 minutes.
Taste for seasoning. Serve in deep bowls,
with plenty of crusty bread - freshly baked
soda bread is ideal.
DiningNavigation
On Board
Steak with Grilled Vegetables
‘A good steak’ has long been the nation’s
favourite meal, and this easy recipe
makes a handy dish for two. It can be
cooked in a grill pan, as given below,
or over a barbecue, and the vegetables
can be varied depending on what’s in
season. When buying steak, many swear
by Angus but other breeds of beef have
their advocates too, including the hardy
little black Dexter. Dry ageing is preferred,
hung for a minimum of 21 days - longer
hanging times are becoming popular
and produce more tender beef; the local
butcher will advise.
Serves 2
2 well aged steaks of your preferred
breed, sirloin, striploin, ribeye, or fillet
1 or 2 courgettes, cut into thick slices
1 or 2 peppers, deseeded and cut into
thick slices
1 small red onion, peeled and cut into
thick slices
1-2 tablespoons olive oil or rapeseed oil
Salt and plenty of freshly ground black
pepper
1 tablespoons balsamic or wine vinegar
4-6 small to medium potatoes, scrubbed
When ready to cook, place the vegetables
on the grill pan, toss around quickly to
sear and then push to the edges, allowing
the steaks enough space to make full
contact with the hot pan. Add the steaks
and then reduce the heat to moderate; do
not overcrowd - use two pans or cook in
two batches if necessary.
Unless cooking over the barbecue, heat a
large dry grill pan (or two medium pans)
over high heat for about 10 minutes
until very hot - cast iron ridged pans give
excellent results.
Cook the vegetables and steaks for
about 5-8 minutes, to your liking. Turn
the steaks once and stir the vegetables
around a little occasionally to cook them
evenly.
Meanwhile, put the steaks into a shallow
dish, and the prepared vegetables into
a bowl. Mix together the oil, salt, black
pepper and balsamic vinegar. Pour half
of the mixture over the steaks and the
remainder over the vegetables, mixing
well.
Meanwhile boil the scrubbed potatoes in
their jackets.
When the steaks are cooked to your liking
and the potatoes are tender, arrange
everything on heated plates and serve hot.
Add a dash of wine and knob of butter
to any tasty bits left in the hot pan, swirl
around and pour onto the plates.
97
What’s in the Fridge Omelette
Whether at home or on holiday, there is
no more useful standby to keep in the
fridge than a dozen eggs – together with a
few other basic ingredients such as onions
and potatoes, you can have a wholesome,
tasty home-cooked meal on the table in
15 minutes, which is perfect for hungry
people in a hurry.
Serves 4
11/2 tablespoons olive oil
4-6 potatoes, peeled and diced
1 onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, chopped
8 eggs, beaten with 2 tablespoons freshly
grated cheese
A little salt and freshly ground black
pepper
Chopped parsley
Heat the oil in a non-stick pan and cook
the potatoes over moderate heat for
8-10 minutes, until nearly cooked and
beginning to brown. Add the onion and
continue to cook gently until the onion is
just golden, then add the garlic.
98
When the potatoes are just cooked,
season the egg mixture and add to the
potatoes. Stir well and allow the eggs to
cook on the base. Place a plate over the
pan, carefully turn the omelette onto the
plate then slide back into the pan to cook
the other side. To serve, sprinkle with
parsley and cut into wedges.
Variation: you can add other ingredients,
whatever is available - chopped bacon,
scallions, tomatoes, mushrooms. You can
use up cooked potatoes course, but the
flavour is much better if you start out with
raw potatoes.
DiningNavigation
On Board
Index
Abbey Bar, Boyle, 88
ABBEYSHRULE, 58
Al Mezza, Athlone, 77
ALLENWOOD, 32
An Cupán Caifé, Mountshannon, 71
Angler’s Rest, Ballyconnell, 94
Anglers Rest, Vow Jetty, 45
Ann Dowling’s, Robertstown, 32
Annaharvey Farm & Equestrian Centre,
Tullamore, 23 & 34
Annebrook House Hotel, Mullingar, 56
ANTRIM, 40
Arbutus Restaurant, Kilrea, 45
Ardboe High Cross, 36
ARDBOE, 39
Ardhowen Theatre Enniskillen, 13
Ardhowen Theatre Restaurant, Enniskillen, 19
Ardtara Country House & Restaurant,
Upperlands, 44
Argory, The, River Blackwater, 39
Arigna Mining Experience, 63
Art of Coffee, Grand Canal Dublin, 25
Athlone Castle & Visitor Centre, 61
ATHLONE, 77
Athy Farmers’ Market, 8
Athy Golf Club, 8
ATHY, 8
Aubergine Café Gallery, Longford, 59
Aughrim Wedge Tomb, Ballyconnell, 90
Aunty Bee’s Tearooms, Boyle, 88
Avenue Café, Maynooth, 52
Azur, Limerick, 66
BAGENALSTOWN, 10
BALLINA, 68
BALLINAMORE, 93
Ballinasloe Farmers’ Market, 76
BALLINASLOE, 75
BALLINDERRY, 72
BALLYCOMMON, 33
BALLYCONNELL, 94
Ballyhugh Arts & Cultural Centre,
Ballyconnell, 91
BALLYKEERAN, 81
BALLYMAHON, 58
BALLYNACARGY, 58
Ballyronan marina, 40
BALLYRONAN, 40
BANAGHER, 74
Bang Thai @ Loughrey’s ,Tullamore, 33
Barge Inn, Grand Canal Dublin, 25
Barge Steakhouse, Leitrim, 92
Barrow River Arts Festival, 4
Barrowville Townhouse, Carlow, 9
Battery Bar, 39
BATTERY HARBOUR, 39
Bay Tree Café Athy, 8
Bear Essentials, Nr Ballyconnell, 91
Becketts Hotel & Restaurant, Leixlip, 50
Beirne’s, Joe, Battlebridge, 89
Bellaghy Bawn, nr Magherafelt, 36
BELLANALECK, 16
Belle Isle Estate & Cookery School, 14
Belleek Pottery, 17
Belleek Pottery, Belleek, 13
BELLEEK, 17
Belmont Watermill & Studios, Belmont, 23
Belmont Watermill Museum & Studios, 34
BELMONT, 34
BELTURBET, 94
Belvedere House, Mullingar, 47
BENBURB, 35
BENBURB, 39
Birr Castle, Birr, 60
BIRR HERITAGE TOWN, 60
BLACKWATERTOWN, 39
Blakes of the Hollow, Enniskillen, 19
Blanchfield’s Pub, St Mullin’s, 12
Blue Apron, The, Tullamore, 33
Blue Sky Chinese Restaurant, Ballyronan, 40
Boats Bistro, Graiguenamanagh, 11
Boland’s Bar, Monasterevin, 7
Bord Gáis Energy Theatre, Grand Canal
Square, Dublin, 22
Borris House, 10
Borris Tea Rooms, 10
BORRIS, 10
Boyle Abbey, Boyle, 62
BOYLE, 88
Bradaun Restaurant, Leixlip House Hotel, 51
Brasserie Mark Anderson, 70
Bretzel Bakery, Grand Canal Dublin, 25
Brian Boru, The, Royal Canal Dublin, 49
99
Bridge Bar & Grill, Grand Canal, Dublin, 27
Bridge Bar, Rathangan, 7
Bridge House Hotel, Tullamore, 33
Bridge House, Enfield,
54
Bridge House/Purcells, Athy, 8
Bridgewater Inn, Sallins, 31
Brindle Beam Tea Rooms ,The, Lurgan, 38
Brocagh Castle, Brocagh, 39
BROCAGH, 39
Brocka-on-the-Water, Kilgarvan Quay, 73
Brosna Lodge Hotel, Banagher, 74
Brown Trout Golf & Country Inn, Aghadowey, 45
Brownshill Dolmen, 4
Bruno’s Restaurant, Knockvicar, 88
Bunratty Castle & Folk Park, nr Limerick, 60
Bush Hotel, The, Carrick-on-Shannon, 86
Bushmills Distillery, 36
Byrne’s, Edenderry, 32
Cabbage Patch, The Glenavy, 41
Café Bar H, Grand Canal Dublin, 25
Café Bon Bon, Maynooth, 51
Café Brioche, Mullingar, 56
Café Merlot (at Blakes), Enniskillen, 19
Café Q, Tullamore, 33
Café Twist, Maynooth, 51
Cahill’s, nr Belmont, 34
Canal Bank Café, Dublin 25
Canal Bar, Shannon Harbour, 34
Canal Café, Lyons Demesne Celbridge, 30
Canal View Restaurant, Keshcarrigan, 93
Canton Casey’s, Mullingar, 56
CARLOW, 8
Carlton Abbey Hotel, Athy, 8
Carlton Shearwater Hotel, Ballinasloe, 76
CARNADOE WATERS, 85
Carrick Water Music, 62
Carrick-on-Shannon Markets, 85
CARRICK-ON-SHANNON, 62
CARRICK-ON-SHANNON, 85
Carrybridge Hotel, Lisbellaw, 21
Carton House Hotel, Maynooth, 53
CASTLE ARCHDALE, 18
Castle Coole, Fermanagh, 13
CASTLEKNOCK, 50
Castletown House, Celbridge, 23
Cavan & Leitrim Narrow Gauge Railway, Dromod 62
CELBRIDGE, 30
100
Charlie Weld’s, Robertstown, 32
Cherry Tree Restaurant, Killaloe, 69
Christie Park, Coleraine, 46
Church Street Restaurant, Magherafelt, 42
Circle of Friends, Inistioge, 12
Ciss Ryan’s, Garrykennedy, 74
Clanard Court Hotel, Athy, 8
Clane, 30
Clarion Hotel, Limerick, 65
Clarke’s Restaurant & Bar, Boyle, 88
Clinton Centre Enniskillen, 19
CLONDRA, 57
Clones lace, 21
CLONES, 21
CLONMACNOIS, 76
Clonmacnoise, 61
CLOONDAVAUN BAY MARINA, nr Portumna, 71
Coffee on High, Graiguenamanagh, 11
Coffey’s pub, Lecarrow, 80
COLERAINE, 46
Conway’s Corner House, Drumshanbo, 89
Coolbawn Quay, nr Nenagh, 73
COOLBAWN,
72
COOLNAHAY HARBOUR, 57
Cooneys Hotel, Ballymahon, 58
COOTEHALL, 88
Copper & Spice, Limerick, 65
CORCORAN’S BRIDGE, 34
Corlea Trackway Visitor Centre, 47
Corleggy Cheese Farm, Belturbet, 13
Cornstore Winebar & Restaurant, The, 67
Cottage Restaurant, The, Jamestown, 85
Country Choice, Limerick Milk Market, 65
Coursetown Country House, Athy, 8
Courtyard Kitchen Café, Carrick-on-Shannon, 86
Cova Inn, Antrim, 40
Cove, The, Ballyronan, 40
CRANFIELD BAY, 40
Cranfield Inn, Cranfield Bay, 40
Creighton’s Bar, Boyle, 88
Croke Park Hotel, Royal Canal Dublin, 48
Crom Estate, Newtownbutler, 13
CROSS GUNS BRIDGE, Royal Canal Dublin, 48
Crumlin Marina, 41
Crushed Grape, The, Derrylin, 15
Cryan’s, Carrick-on-Shannon, 86
Navigation
Index
Cuan Mhuire Garden Centre, Athy, 8
Cushendale Woollen Mills, 5
DAINGEAN, 32
Daly’s Wines, Moy, 39
Derg Inn, The, Terryglass, 72
DERRYLIN, 15
DERRYMACASH, 38
Devenish Island Monastic Site, Enniskillen, 13
Ditty’s Home Bakery & Coffee Shop,
Magherafelt, 42
Dollakis Restaurant, Enniskillen, 20
Dowey’s Butchers & Coffee Shop, Lurgan, 38
Doyle’s, Graiguenamanagh, 12
DROMAAN, 70
DROMINEER, 73
DROMOD, 84
Drumaheglis Marina, 45
DRUMSHANBO, 89
DRUMSNA, 85
Dublinia, Dublin, 22
DuCartes at the Hunt Museum, Limerick, 65
Duignan’s, Drumsna, 85
Duiske Abbey, 5
Dysons, Portumna, 72
Eden Deli, Edenderry, 32
EDENDERRY, 32
Ely HQ, Grand Canal Dublin, 26
ENFIELD, 54
Enniskillen Castle, Enniskillen, 13
ENNISKILLEN, 18
ENNISKILLEN, 13
Fairgreen Centre, Mullingar, 56
FERBANE, 34
Ferry Inn, The, Portumna, 71
Fisherman’s The, Fisherstown, 7
Fitzgeralds/The Roost, Maynooth, 51
Flanagan’s Steakhouse & Bar, Killaloe, 68
Flanagans Mill, Sallins, 30
Flattery’s, Enfield, 54
Florence Court House, Fermanagh,13
Flynn’s Bar & Restaurant, Banagher, 75
FOIGHA BRIDGE, 59
Franco’s, Enniskillen, 19
Freddy’s Bistro, Limerick, 65
French Table, The, Limerick, 66
Furey’s Bar, Moyvalley, 54
Gallery 29 Café, Mullingar, 56
Gardiners G2, Magherafelt, 42
GARRYKENNEDY, 74
Gate Inn, Gawley’s Gate, 42
GAWLEY’S GATE, 42
Gertie Browne’s/Hatter’s Lane, Athlone, 77
Gertie’s, Keshcarrigan, 93
Giant’s Causeway, 36
Giants Causeway & Bushmills Steam
Railway, 36
Gilmartin’s Irish Craft Shop, Belleek, 17
Glasshouse Restaurant, Limerick, 67
Glasson Hotel & Golf Club, 82
Glasson Village Restaurant, 82
GLASSON, 81
Glendeer Open Farm, nr Athlone, 62
Glennon’s, Allenwood,
32
Glenview Folk Museum, Ballinamore,
90 & 93
Glenview Restaurant, Aughoo Bridge, 93
Goosers, Killaloe, 68
GORESBRIDGE, 10
Graiguenamanagh ‘Town of Books’ Festival, 4
GRAIGUENAMANAGH, 11
Grainey Wholefoods, Scarriff, 70
Grand Canal Harbour, Dublin 25
Greene’s Restaurant & Deli, Maynooth, 52
Greville Arms Hotel, Mullingar, 56
Grogan’s Pub, Glasson, 81
Guinness Storehouse, Dublin, 22
Halligan’s, Ballynacargy, 58
Hampton’s, Limerick, 65
Hanged Man’s, Milltown, 7
Harbour House, Edenderry, 32
Harbour Master House, Shannon Harbour, 75
Harbour Masters House, Shannon Harbour, 34
Harbour Office, Kinnego, 38
Harbour Pizzeria & Chippy, Battery Harbour, 42
Harkins, Dromod, 85
HAZELHATCH, 29
Heidi’s Coffee Shop, Banagher, 75
Hennessy’s, Ferbane, 34
Henry’s, Cootehall, 88
Herb Street Restaurant, Grand Canal Dublin, 26
Hideout,The/Cunningham’s, 55
101
HILL OF DOWN, 54
Hilton Dublin Hotel, Grand Canal, 28
Hilton Park Victorian Gardens, 13
Hilton Park, Clones, 21
Hodson Bay Hotel, 80
HODSON’S BAY, 80
Hunt Museum, Limerick, 60
Il Valentino, Grand Canal Dublin, 25
Ilia A Coffee Experience, Mullingar, 57
Indie Spice, Naas, 31
Indus Valley, Coleraine, 46
INISTIOGE, 12
International Fishing Centre, Belturbet, 95
Irish-German Fishing Club, Killinure, 81
J.J.Hough’s, Banagher, 75
JAMESTOWN, 85
Jamie’s, Tullamore, 33
Jeanie Johnston Tall Ship Famine Museum, Dublin, 22
Jimmy D’s, Bagenalstown, 10
Johnstown House Hotel, Enfield, 54
Jolly Sandwich, The, Enniskillen, 19
Jordan’s Bar/The Auction Rooms, Moy, 39
Jurys Inn, Limerick, 65
Kariba’s Restaurant, Ballinasloe, 75
Keane’s, Mountshannon, 70
KEENAGH, 59
Keenans, Tarmonbarry, 84
Kelly’s, nr Belmont, 34
KESH, 17
KESHCARRIGAN, 93
Kilbeggan Distillery Experience, Kilbeggan, 23
Kilbeggan Races, Kilbeggan, 23
KILCLARE, 93
KILCOCK, 53
Kildare Farmers Market, Naas, 31
KILGARVAN, 72
KILLADEAS, 18
Killaloe Heritage & Brian Boru Centre, Killaloe, 60
KILLALOE, 68
KILLASHEE, 59
Killeen’s, The Village Pub, Rhode, 32
Killeen’s, The Village Tavern, Shannonbridge,
76
KILLINURE POINT, 81
KILLUCAN, 55
Killyhevlin Hotel, Enniskillen, 20
102
KILREA, 45
Kin Khao Thai Restaurant, Athlone, 77
King House, Boyle, 62
King John’s Castle Limerick, 60
Kingfisher Cycle Trail, 90
KINNEGO, 38
Knockninny House & Marina, Derrylin, 16
La Péniche, Grand Canal Dublin, 28
La Serre Restaurant, Celbridge, 30
Lady of the Lake, Inishclare, 18
Lakeside Café, Lough Key, 88
Lakeside Hotel, Killaloe, 68
Landmark Hotel, The, Carrick-on-Shannon, 87
LANESBOROUGH, 83
Larchill Arcadian Gardens, Kilcock, 47
Larkins, Garrykennedy, 74
Laurel Villa, Magherafelt, 43
LECARROW, 80
Lees Chinese, Enfield, 54
Left Bank Bistro, Athlone, 78
LEIGHLINBRIDGE, 9
Leitrim Genealogy Centre, Ballinamore, 91
Leitrim Lodge (former Leitrim Inn), Leitrim, 92
LEITRIM VILLAGE, 92
LEIXLIP, 50
Lennons@ VISUAL, 9
Lennox Café Bistro, Grand Canal Dublin, 29
Liam O’Riain’s, Killaoe, 68
Lily Johnston’s Bar & Kitchen, Glenavy 41
Limerick Strand Hotel, 65
LIMERICK, 60
LIMERICK, 65
LISBELLAW, 21
Little Museum of Dublin, 22
LITTLETOWN BRIDGE, 6
Locks Brasserie, Grand Canal Dublin, 29
LONGFORD TOWN,59
LONGWOOD, 54
Lord Bagenal Hotel, Leighlinbridge, 10
Lough Allen Hotel & Spa, Drumshanbo, 89
LOUGH ALLEN, 89
Lough Boora Parklands, Pollagh, 23
Lough Erne Golf Resort, Enniskillen, 19
Lough Erne Golf Resort, Enniskillen, 16
Lough Erne Hotel, Kesh, 18
Lough Key Forest Park, 63
Lough Key House, Boyle, 87
Navigation
Index
Lough Neagh Discovery Centre,
Oxford Island, 35
Lough Neagh Discovery Centre,
Oxford Island, 38
Loughshore Café, Antrim, 40
LURGAN, 38
Lusty Beg Island, nr Kesh, 17
Lynch’s Bar, Kilclare , 93
M. O’Shea, Borris, 11
MacNean House & Restaurant, Blacklion, 19
Magan’s, Killashee, 59
MAGANEY BRIDGE, 8
Magherafelt, 42
Manor House & Golf, Kilrea, 45
Manor House Hotel, Killadeas, 18
Marble Arch Caves, 13
Marker, The, Grand Canal Square, Dublin, 22
Market Yard Centre, Carrick-on-Shannon, 62
Mary Lynch’s, McNead’s Bridge, 55
Master Saddler, The, Corlough, 90
Mayfly Inn, Kesh, 17
Maynooth Cabs, 51
Maynooth Castle, Maynooth, 47
MAYNOOTH, 51
McEvoy’s/The Hatch, Hazelhatch, 30
McGrath’s Ballycommon House,
Ballycommon, 33
McIntyre’s Shannon Harbour, 34
McIntyre’s, Shannon Harbour, 75
McKenna’s Bar, nr Sandy Bay, 41
McNEAD’S BRIDGE, 55
Mespil Hotel, Grand Canal Dublin, 25
Milano, Baggot St Bridge, Dublin, 25
Milano, Grand Canal Dublin, 25
Milk Market, Limerick, 65
MILLTOWN, 6
Mimosa, Carlow, Carlow 9
Mirchi, Edenderry,32
Molly Maguire’s, Ballyconnell,94
MONASTEREVIN, 7
Moneypenny’s Lock, 39
Moohans/The Fiddlestone, Belleek, 17
Moorings, The, Bellanaleck, 16
Moran’s, Hill of Down,
54
Motte Restaurant, The, Inistioge, 12
Mount Shannon Hotel, 70
MOUNTSHANNON, 70
Moving Stairs, The, Boyle, 88
MOY, 39
Moycarn Lodge, Ballinasloe, 75
MOYVALLEY BRIDGE, 54
Mullaney’s, Robertstown, 32
Mullicháin Cafe, St Mullin’s, 12
Mullingar Park Hotel & Restaurant, 56
MULLINGAR, 56
Munnelly’s, Ballynacargy, 58
NAAS, 33
Nannie Quinn’s, Thomastown Bridge, 55
National Botanic Gardens, Dublin 47
National Museum of Ireland, Dublin, 22
National Nature Reserve, Oxford Island, 35
Number Twenty Nine Georgian Museum, Dublin, 22
O’Doherty’s Butchers, Enniskillen, 18
O’Keeffe’s/The Green Ribbon, Kilcock, 53
Oarsman, The, Carrick-on-Shannon, 86
Ocean Bar & Restaurant, Grand Canal
Dublin, 25
Old Fort, The, Shannonbridge, 76
Old Jameson Distillery, Dublin, 22
Olive Grove, The, Athlone, 77
One Pery Square Limerick, 68
Organic Centre, The, Rossinver, 14
Oscars, Mullingar, 57
OXFORD ISLAND, 38
Paddy’s Bar, Terryglass, 72
Pizza Pomodoro, Coleraine, 46
Pól O’D, Ballyconnell, 94
POLLAGH, 34
Poor Scholar, The, Ballinamore, 93
PORTADOWN, 38
Porter House North, Royal Canal Dublin, 49
PORTGLENONE, 43
Portmór House, Blackwatertown, 39
Portneal Lodge, Kilrea, 45
PORTOBELLO, nr Grand Canal Dublin, 25
Portumna Castle & Gardens, Portumna, 60
PORTUMNA, 71
Premier Inn, Coleraine, 46
Prince of Wales, Athlone, 77
Purple Onion, The, Tarmonbarry, 84
Radisson Blu Hotel, Athlone, 78
RATHANGAN, 7
Rattlebag Café, Carlow, 9
Rebecca’s, Enniskillen, 19
Red Earth, Mullingar Business Park, 56
Red Oak Restaurant, Clonmoylan nr 103
Portumna, 71
Restaurant @ No 6(Blakes), Enniskillen, 19
RHODE, 32
RIASC, MV, Dublin, 25
RICHMOND HARBOUR, 59
Richmond Inn, The, 59
River Bistro, The, Limerick, 65
Riversdale Farm Guesthouse, Ballinamore, 94
RIVERSTOWN BRIDGE, 55
ROBERTSTOWN, 32
Rooney’s, Abbeyshrule, 58
ROOSKEY, 84
Royal Portrush GC, 36
Rustic Inn, The, Abbeyshrule, 58
Ryan’s, Graiguenamanagh, 11
Ryandale Inn, Moy, 39
Rye River Café, Kilcock, 53
Saagar, Mullingar, 56
Sage Café, The, Limerick, 65
SALLINS, 30
SANDY BAY, 41
SCARRIFF, 70
Schoolhouse Hotel, Grand Canal, Dublin, 27
Seagoe Hotel, Portadown, 48
Seagrass Restaurant, Grand Canal Dublin, 28
Seamus Heaney, 36
Sean’s Bar, Athlone, 77
Seven Horseshoes, The, Belturbet, 95
Shamrat, Carrick-on-Shannon, 86
SHANNON HARBOUR, 75
SHANNON HARBOUR, 34
SHANNONBRIDGE, 76
Share Centre, The, Lisnaskea, 13
Sheelin Lace Museum, Bellanaleck, 13
Sheelin Tea Shop, The, Bellanaleck, 16
Sheraton Hotel, Athlone, 77
Shishir, Tullamore, 35
Silver Eel pub, Grange, 85
Sirocco’s, Tullamore, 33
Skelly’s, Ballymahon, 58
Sliabh an Iarainn Visitor Centre,
Drumshanbo, 63
Slieve Russell Hotel, Ballyconnell, 94
Smyth’s Pub, Ballinamore, 93
St George’s Heritage & Visitor Ctr,
Carrick-on-Shannon, 62
St John’s House, Lecarrow, 81
104
St Mullins Heritage Centre, 5
ST MULLINS, 12
Stables Bar & Restaurant, Antrim, 40
Step House Hotel, The, Borris, 10
Stone House Café, Boyle, 88
Streetside Café, Enfield, 54
TARMONBARRY, 84
Teach Uí Bhrian, Tuamgraney, 70
Tenors Grill Room, Naas, 31
TERRYGLASS, 72
Thatch, The, Belleek, 17
The Argory (National Trust), 35
The Fatted Calf, Glasson, 83
The Locke, Athlone, 77
The Twelfth Lock, Castleknock Marina, 50
The Wooden Spoon, Killaloe, 69
Thomas Fletcher, Naas, 31
THOMASTOWN BRIDGE, 55
Thyme, Athlone, 77
Tilley Lamp Restaurant, Ardboe, 40
TOOMEBRIDGE, 40
Top of the Town, Antrim, 40
Torc Café & Foodhall, Longford, 59
Tormeys butchers, Mullingar, 56
TRAX Brasserie, Naas, 31
TUAMGRANEY, 70
Tullamore Court Hotel, Tullamore, 33
Tullamore Dew Heritage Centre, 23
Tullamore Dew Visitor Centre, 33
TULLAMORE, 33
Tullow Museum, 4
Turley’s, Vicarstown, 7
Ulster Canal Stores, Clones, 21
University Concert Hall, Limerick, 60
Uno, Enniskillen, 18
Vicarstown Inn, 7
VICARSTOWN, 7
Victoria Hall, Carrick-on-Shannon, 87
Vie de Chateaux, Naas, 31
Viewmount House & VM Restaurant, Longford, 59
Viking Splash Tours, Dublin, 22
VISUAL Centre, Carlow, 4
Vittos Restaurant & Wine Bar,
Carrick-on-Shannon, 86
Water Margin, The, Coleraine, 46
Waterside, The, Graiguenamanagh, 12
Waterways Ireland Visitor Centre, Grand
Canal Dublin, 25
Navigation
Index
Waterways Ireland Visitors Centre, Dublin,
22
Westville Hotel, Enniskillen, 19
Whiskey Still, The, Dromineer, 74
White River Hotel, Toomebridge, 40
WHITEGATE, 70
Wild Duck Inn, Portglenone, 44
WILLIAMSTOWN, 70
Wineport Lodge, Glasson, 83
Wolftrap, The, Tullamore, 33
Woodstock Arms, The, Inistioge, 12
Woodstock Gardens & Arboretum, 5
Wotsits Place, Scarriff, 70
Yellow Door Deli, Bakery & Café, Portadown,
38
Yew Tree Restaurant, The, Lecarrow, 80
Yoko Restaurant, Coleraine, 46
Zest Café & Restaurant, Clane, 30
My Restaurant Recommendations
Georgina Campbell Guides and Waterways Ireland would like to invite you to make
your own notes on your favourite eating experiences or you can submit your restaurant
recommendations and comments to us, and we’ll add them to the list to be visited for
the next guide.
Post or email your comments to:
Georgina Campbell
Editor, ‘A Taste of the Waterways’,
Georgina Campbell Guides Ltd,
PO Box 6173
Dublin 13
Email [email protected]
Web www.ireland-guide.com
105
About Waterways Ireland
Waterways Ireland’s mission statement is “…to provide a high quality recreational
environment centred on the inland waterways in our care for the benefit of our
customers...”
Waterways Ireland is one of the six North/South Implementation Bodies established
under the British Irish Agreement in 1999. Waterways Ireland has responsibility for
the management, maintenance, development and restoration of inland navigable
waterways principally for recreational purposes. The waterways under the remit
of the body are the Barrow Navigation, the Erne System, the Grand Canal, the
Lower Bann, the Royal, the Shannon-Erne Waterway and the Shannon Navigation.
The headquarters for Waterways Ireland is in Enniskillen, and regional offices are
located in Carrick-on-Shannon, Dublin and Scarriff.
A full range of publications, guides and smart cards are available online at
www.shopwaterwaysireland.org
Disclaimer
The contents of this guide are believed to be correct at the time of printing.
Nevertheless, Waterways Ireland and Georgina Campbell Guides can accept no
responsibility for errors, omissions or changes in the details given.
106
About the Authors
About the Authors...
Husband and wife team W. M. Nixon and Georgina Campbell
have been researching and writing their unique independent
annual guides to eating and drinking along Ireland’s inland
waterways since 1998.
W.M. Nixon first cruised on the waterways in 1957 with a
sailing dinghy and a tent, and has since been on all the inland
waterways in a wide variety of craft. He is Contributing Editor
to Ireland Afloat and writes a weekly blog on Saturdays on
Afloat.ie; he has also written several books and frequently
contributes to international maritime journals.
Georgina Campbell specialises in Irish food and hospitality
and publishes a series of independent guides, in print and/
or online. These include Ireland’s premier hospitality guide,
Georgina Campbell’s Ireland – All The Best Places To Eat,
Drink & Stay (www.ireland-guide.com), which leads travellers
to all the best places for their needs throughout Ireland,
whether on holiday or business, and is available as an app for
iPhone, Nokia & BlackBerry mobile phones (free to download).
Her books on Irish food include the classic baking book
The Best of Irish Breads & Baking (reprinted 2012), Irish
Country House Cooking and, most recently, Ireland’s first
region-by-region food tourism guide, Ireland For Food Lovers.
This unique guide introduces visitors to the special foods of
each region and their producers, tells readers where they can
buy them – and where to find the restaurants, pubs and hotels
that take special pride in showcasing local foods. Ireland For
Food Lovers is available in several formats: print (€20+ p&p
from Ireland-guide.com, or from bookshops), as an ebook or
as an app.
Georgina is a member of both the British and the Irish Food
Writers Guilds, and a member of the international Slow Food
movement.
“Copyright: GC Guides Ltd (text, establishment images), PO Box 6173, Dublin 13
(E:[email protected] W: Ireland-guide.com). Waterways Ireland copyright this concept.
Design and print Impression Print and Design”
107
Waterways Ireland
2 Sligo Road, Enniskillen,
Co Fermanagh, BT74 7JY
Tel: +44 (0)28 6632 3004
www.waterwaysireland.org
[email protected]
If requested this brochure can be
made available in accessible formats.
Georgina Campbell Guides
PO Box 6173, Dublin 13
www.ireland-guide.com
Independently Assessed & Personally Selected

A Taste of the Waterways

Transcription

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