Ten Steps to a Successful Vegetable Garden

ARIZONA COOP E R AT I V E
E TENSION
College of Agriculture and Life Sciences
AZ1435
Ten Steps to a
Successful Vegetable Garden
Gardening with vegetables can be fun and provide delicious
and highly nutritious fresh food. Watching and working with
plants can add a new dimension of enjoyment to life and bring
an awareness of the wonderful world of nature in the backyard.
The marvels of nature will have special personal meaning when
nurturing a small seed into a colorful productive plant with your
own hands. These accomplishments can be obtained regardless of
11/08
the size of garden. A few plants or a large plot will give
rewarding experiences for both young and old.The path
to a successful vegetable garden is not difficult or long.
Ten carefully taken steps will produce many enjoyable
moments and an abundant harvest of fresh vegetables
during much of the year.
Step 1
Select a good location
Choose an area with plenty of morning sunlight and
some afternoon shade. Most vegetables, especially fruiting
types, do best with six to eight hours of full sun exposure.
Leafy and root vegetables will tolerate partial shade. Don’t
plant gardens under or near trees or large shrubs—their
roots will rob fertility and water from vegetables. Don’t
plant vegetables in the narrow shaded space between
houses and walls.
A loose, fertile, level, well-drained soil is best. If possible,
avoid heavy clays and very sandy soils. If caliche is present
it must be dug out and removed. Avoid areas that are
crusted with alkali salts or infested with Bermudagrass,
nutgrass or Johnson grass.
A synthetic soil, self prepared or purchased, can be used
in raised beds or containters (pots, tubs, boxes) if good
soil is not available. Where the space is limited, container
gardening can be practiced. A convenient water supply
for irrigating is necessary.
Step 2
Plan your garden layout
Planning ahead will help avoid problems and
make your garden a complement to your landscape.
First, sketch a plan of the intended planting area for
vegetables. Write down the size of the area or location
of containers. This is the beginning of a gardening
notebook or journal.
• Decide on the vegetable species wanted. Select
those that your household likes, that are adapted
to your climate and practical for the location. If
space is a problem, plant those that utilize space
efficiently like bush varieties or bush beans, beets,
broccoli, cabbage, carrots, leaf lettuce, onions,
radishes, Swiss chard, tomatoes, and turnips.
• Mark on the plan where the vegetables will be
planted, making sure to leave room for growing
space between plants. Also, list the planting date
for each vegetable. Arrange plantings according to
harvest periods and growth characteristics. Plant
vegetables adjacent to each other which will be
harvested about the same time. Avoid having taller
plants shade younger and smaller vegetables. Use
vertical space by trellising climbing crops.
Step 3
Grow recommended varieties
Gardening success can be greatly influenced by the
varieties you use. Select from recommended lists and
from those know to do well locally. It is a good idea to
try one or two new varieties each year. Plant them next to
old favorites for comparison. Keep a notebook or journal
from year to year to note what varieties perform best.
For mini-gardens, try bush or dwarf varieties and the
more colorful ones. Seed catalogues will be a big help
in finding these. Look for All-American Selection Award
winners. (www.all-americaselections.org/)
Step 4
Obtain good seed, plants, equipment and supplies
Before planting, find a reputable source for seed and
other garden supplies. Seed catalogs can be a big help,
but be sure the varieties are locally adapted. Buy new
seed since some seeds over a year old will not germinate
(sprout) well. Some seeds can be saved and are best placed
in jars or in plastic bags and stored in a freezer.
Vegetable transplants can be purchased at garden
stores, nurseries and greenhouses. Insist on recommended
varieties. Select plants that are healthy, stocky, mediumsized, with vigorous roots and that are pest free. Avoid
plants that are wilted, yellow, spindly, too large or have
spots on the leaves, brown lesions on the stems or knots/
galls on the roots. Obtain plants in containers (pots, 6 or
8 packs, bands or boxes) when possible so that the root
systems are intact. Transplants should not be disturbed
any more than necessary and should be “hardened-off.”
Transplants can be started at home if desired.
Have all equipment and tools clean and in good
condition before working the soil. A hoe, spade, garden
rake, trowel, measuring stick and planting line are
essential. A hand cultivator and seed drill reduce work
in larger gardens. Hoses and sprinklers convenient for
watering are also needed. Other needed supplies are
fertilizers and mulching materials.
Study pest control recommendations to determine
what may be needed after positively identifying the
pest. It is important to have a quick source of materials
for pest control if needed. A good sprayer or duster to
control garden pests should be available for use. Care
should be taken in handling, applying and storing
all chemicals. Always follow the pesticide label
instructions; it is a legal document!
Step 5
Prepare and care for the soil properly
Soil provides nutrients and water for plants. If these
materials are limited or if the soil is compact or hard
and crusty when dry, and water-soaked and sticky
when wet, plants will not grow and develop properly.
To maintain and improve soil conditions, mix organic
matter and fertilizers into the soil before planting, and
prepare and cultivate the soil when dry or slightly moist
(never when wet).
Organic matter makes the soil loose (friable) and
easy to work. It improves nutrient and water-holding
capacity, drainage and aeration. Well rotted manure,
compost, and leaf mulch are commonly used organic
materials. Composted manure is easy to use and is
relatively free of weed seeds. Apply a layer of organic
matter 2 to 3 inches thick on the garden area about 1
to 2 months before planting. Work it into the top 10-12
inches of soil. A thorough watering of soil at this time
helps leach harmful salts from the root zone. If poultry
manures are used, apply them at half rate.
A fertilizer should be added containing both nitrogen
and phosphorus and be applied before planting. These
nutrients will benefit most garden crops. Although soils
vary in fertility, a typical fertilizer application would be
1 to 2 lbs. (1 to 2 cups) of 16-20-0 (ammonium phosphate)
per 100 ft.2 spread evenly over the soil. Also, 3 to 5 lb.
of soil sulfur/100 ft.2 may be added if water drainage is
poor. All these materials should be plowed, roto-tilled
or spaded into the top 10 to 12 inches of soil shortly
before planting.
In preparing the seedbed, do not work the soil when
it is too wet. Wait for it to dry sufficiently so it crumbles
in your hands. Level the area by raking. Then make
raised beds if using furrow irrigation (See Figure A). Top
dress planted area with a three inch layer of organic
mulch after seedlings emerge or after transplanting (See
Step 8).
When growing vegetables in close quarters or where
good soil is not available, an artificial soil can be used.
If the soil doesn’t drain well consider using raised beds
filled with ½ garden soil and ½ artificial soil mix, coarse
sand, perlite or vermiculite. (see Figure B).
During the growing season fertilizers may be
needed. Applying bands of fertilizer, usually only
nitrogen, is called “side-dressing.” Apply ½ lb./100 feet
of row of 21-0-0 or equivalent fertilizer, three inches
deep and about four inches to the side of the plants.
Alternatively, spread nitrogen fertilizer on the soil
surface about 4 inches from the plant and water it in.
However, too much fertilizer too close to the plant may
injure plant roots. Examples of side-dressing timing
are: tomatoes—after the first clusters of tomatoes form;
sweet corn—when plants are “knee high” and again
when they tassel; cucumbers, melons and squash when
they begin to produce runners.
Step 6
Plant your vegetables properly
Most vegetables are started from seed or transplants.
Seed can be sown directly into the garden soil, while
transplants are started elsewhere and later planted into the
garden. Harvest can be obtained sooner with transplants;
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however, it is more expensive and certain plants do not
transplant well. Generally, beans, beets, carrots, cucumbers,
lettuce, muskmelons, onions, peas, pumpkin, radish,
spinach, squash, sweet corn and watermelon are started in
the garden from seed. Vegetables like asparagus, broccoli,
cabbage, cauliflower, eggplant, peppers, sweet potatoes
and tomatoes are generally transplanted, but care needs
to be taken to minimize root drying and injury.
Step 6
A few simple rules need to be followed in
seeding:
• Mark out straight rows to make the garden
attractive and to make cultivation, insect control
and harvesting easier. To mark a row, drive two
stakes into the ground at each end of the garden
and draw a string tightly between them. Shallow
furrows, suitable for small seed, can be made by
drawing a hoe handle along the line indicated by
the string. For deeper furrows, use the corner of the
hoe blade. Use correct spacing between rows.
• Space seeds properly in the row. The number of
seeds to sow per foot or hill (more than one seed/
hole) is suggested on seed packages or in reference
materials. Space the seeds uniformly. Sometimes
small seeds can be handled better if they are mixed
with dry, pulverized soil or sand and then spread.
To aid in spacing seed, spread on one layer of toilet
paper placed on the soil. The contrast of the white
toilet paper will aid in seeing seed spacing.
• Plant at the proper depth. A general rule to follow
is to place the seed at a depth about four times the
diameter of the seed. Cover small seeds such as
carrots and lettuce with no more than ¼ to ½ inch
of soil. Place large seeds such as corn, beans and
peas 1 to 2 inches deep. In sandy soils plant seed
somewhat deeper.
• Cover seeds and firm the soil over them by gently
tamping the soil by hand or the flat back of a hoe.
This prevents rain or sprinkler water from washing
away the seeds.
• Irrigate by sprinkling the soil surface lightly. When
using furrow irrigation, hold water until moisture
moves across seed row. Seeds need moisture to
germinate. Water often enough to prevent crusting
and drying around the seed. After plants emerge,
water less often but deeper.
• Thin plants to the desired number as soon as
possible. Remove weaker plants. Scissors can aid in
thinning by cutting out young plants. Do not wait
too long before thinning or injury will result from
crowding and disturbing the remaining plants.
When transplanting follow these
directions:
• Transplant on a cloudy day or in the evening.
• Handle plants with care. About an hour before
transplanting thoroughly water plants and soil in
the containers (pots, bands, flats). Carefully remove
plants from their containers, disturbing the roots as
little as possible. Try to keep the “soil ball” around
the roots. Keep roots moist at all times when they
are out of the soil. If roots are “pot bound” tease
them out before planting.
• Dig a hole large enough so that the transplanted
plant sits slightly deeper than it grew in the
container.
• Use a starter solution to get plants off to a faster
start. Starter fertilizer is a soluble fertilizer high in
phosphorous like 10-52-17 or 10-50-10 mixture. Mix
fertilizer with water following the label directions
(about 2 tablespoons per gallon of water). After
plants are set in the soil, pour about 1 cup of solution
around the roots of each plant. When peat or fiber
pots are set in the soil add enough water to soften
pot. Also, break off any excessive pot material so
it is below the garden soil level to prevent water
wicking. Remove any plastic or wooden bands
from around roots.
• Cover the roots with soil and firm the soil around
the plant.
• Protect plants for a few days from sun, wind or
cold if necessary.
Step 7
Irrigate with care
Irrigation is necessary for all garden crops in Arizona
because of limited and uncertain rainfall. Water enough
to keep the soil moist (not wet) in the root zone of the plant
throughout the growing season. Excessive fluctuations of
soil moisture adversely affect plant growth and quality.
Regular applications of water need to be made to prevent
the soil from becoming too dry (see Figure C).
Proper watering can be accomplished by observing the
plant and soil. Do not allow the plant to become stressed,
wilted or slow-growing. On the other hand, too much
water, especially on heavy soils, will exclude air from
the root zone, resulting in poor growth. When the soil
becomes crumbly upon squeezing, it’s time to irrigate.
Moisture is needed around the seed for sprouting.
Frequent watering will be needed to keep the soil
adequately moist and prevent crusting of the surface.
A three inch layer of organic mulch will help prevent
evaporation. Do not place mulch on top of seedlings or
transplants, but around them.
As the plant grows, the watering period should be
longer, allowing deeper penetration through the root
zone. Determine the moisture depth with a spade or by
probing with a stick, trowel or iron rod. Most vegetables
are shallow-rooted and use water from the upper 12 to
24 inches of soil.
Frequency of watering depends on many things.
A large plant needs more water than a small plant. A
shallow-rooted vegetable (cabbage, onion, lettuce, corn)
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Step 7
needs to be irrigated more often than a deep-rooted
vegetable (asparagus, tomato, watermelon). Coarse
textured soils (sandy loams) need to be irrigated more
often than fine-textured (clay or silt loams). Plants need
to be watered more often during hot periods than cool
periods. In an average situation during warm weather,
a good soaking of the soil every 5 to 7 days should give
satisfactory results with established plants.
The following irrigation methods are commonly used:
furrow, sprinkler, soaker hoses and drip (trickle). The
furrow method delivers water alongside the plant row.
Water should be kept in the furrow long enough for
moisture to completely infiltrate the soil of the root zone.
Garden sprinklers apply water on both plants and soil
and should not be used if the water is salty. Drip or trickle
emitter systems and soaker hoses apply water through a
hose which lies beside the crop row. All four methods
have a place in Arizona gardens. Traditionally, a raised
bed with two rows is used with furrow irrigation, while
a flat bed with no furrows is normally used with the
other methods. If a watering method moistens the plant
foliage, irrigate in the morning so plants have time to dry
during the day. This will lessen disease problems. Night
time watering encourages disease growth.
Plants growing in containers should be watched
more closely for water needs because the roots are more
crowded and temperatures of root media are more
extreme. Keep soil moist but do not over-water. Make
holes on the side and/or the bottom of the container for
drainage and air.
Step 8
Mulch & cultivate to control weeds
Weeds compete with vegetables for water, nutrients
and light. Weeds often harbor insects and diseases. Two
important ways to keep down the weeds in and around
your garden are mulching and cultivation. If proper
attention is given to this problem early much time and
effort can be saved. Small weeds are easier to control than
large ones. When weeds get started they can cause many
headaches and backaches, and retard plant growth.
Mulching is covering the soil around your vegetables
with a protective material. Besides controlling weeds,
the mulch will conserve moisture, regulate the soil
temperature and keep the vegetables cleaner. With
mulch very little cultivation is needed. Mulch materials
include leaves, straw, sawdust, wood chips, cardboard,
newspaper, shredded paper, old carpet, and paper and
plastic sheeting. On established plantings, materials are
spread around the plants. With paper or plastic sheeting
the material is rolled out on the prepared seedbed and
anchored on the edges with soil. Seeds and transplants
are planted through holes at the desired spacings. Water
can be applied from the side through furrow irrigation or
by a trickle/drip tube or soaker hose under the mulch.
Cultivate with a sharp hoe or cultivator just as the
weeds begin to sprout. Scrape and loosen the total soil
surface around the plants without going too deep, which
would cut or damage shallow roots of the vegetable
plants. Cultivation will also help aerate the soil and can
be used to mix a side-dressing of nitrogen fertilizer into
the soil.
Chemical herbicides for weed control are not generally
recommended for use in home gardens.
Step 9
Be prepared for pests and problems
Problems of the garden can be minimized by being
prepared for them. Learn about the insects and
diseases that commonly occur in the area and learn
control methods. Whenever possible select disease
resistant varieties. Soil problems can be reduced if the
steps mentioned earlier are followed; however, crop
injury from salt can appear if proper management
has not been followed. High temperature and
shallow watering often cause problems especially
when plantings are made too late in the spring or
too early in the fall. Also, as temperatures increase
more pest problems will occur; be prepared for them.
Learn as much as possible from books, bulletins and
professionals. Experience is the best teacher on how
to handle these problems. Recording treatments in a
gardening notebook will be helpful in the future when
they occur again.
Step 10
Harvest at peak quality
The job is not done until top quality vegetables are
harvested from the garden. When the “fruits” of your
labor are tasted, then it will be worth all the effort.
Most vegetables are at peak quality for only a short
period of time and should be harvested. Learn to
tell the proper time to harvest each crop. Immature
vegetables will not improve after harvest and overmature vegetables will be tough and lack the desired
taste and texture.
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To maintain quality after harvest, handle vegetables
carefully. Cool and store vegetables like asparagus,
broccoli, leafy crops, peas and sweet corn below 40° F.;
tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers and eggplant around
55° F. Remove “field heat” as soon as possible by
placing them in the shade or a refridgerator, unless
they are eaten immediately.
Garden vegetables offer you a variety of experiences
and flavors throughout the year. Enjoy them both.
Elevations of locations in Arizona (feet above sea level)
10 to 1000'
1000 to 2000'
Feet 2000 to 3000'
Feet 3000 to 4500'
Feet
888
Ajo
1763 Mammoth
2348
Benson
3585
Gila Bend
737
Casa Gd.
1390 Roosevelt
2200
Bowie
3765
Mohawk
538
Chandler
1213
Safford
2920
Camp Verde
3160
Parker
425
Florence
1500
San Carlos
2630
Chino Valley
4250
Quartzsite
875
Mesa
1225
Sells
2375
Clarkdale
3550
Wellton
260
Phoenix
1108
Superior
2820
Clifton
3465
Yuma
141
Red Rock
1864
Tucson
2423
Cottonwood
3550
Yuma Mesa
181
Salome
1700
Wickenburg
2093
Douglas
3973
Buckeye
Feet
3000 to 4500'
Feet 4500 to 6000'
Feet 6000' and above
Feet
Duncan
3535
Ashfork
5140
Feet 4500 to 6000'
St. Johns
5560
8000
Globe
3540
Bisbee
5350
Sierra Vista
4620 Flagstaff
6993
Kingman
3333
Chinle
5538
Snowflake
5644 Fort Valley
7347
Nogales
3865
Colorado City
4980
Sonoita
4865 Grand Canyon
6890
Page
4380
Fredonia
5000
Tombstone
4540 Heber
6439
Patagonia
4044
Holbrook
5075
Whiteriver
5280
San Simon
3613
Jerome
5245
Winslow
4850 Show Low
6331
Sedona
4240
Payson
4930
Young
5577
6964
Willcox
4182
Prescott
5354
Kayenta
5798 Window Rock
Alpine
Pinedale
Springerville
6500
6750
When to plant vegetables in the Arizona garden
Vegetables differ in their climatic requirements making
it necessary to know when to plant them in order to have
a successful garden.
Some vegetables will withstand cool and even freezing
weather. Others need warmer conditions to germinate
and to produce. Generally vegetables are placed in two
categories—cool-season crops and warm-season crops.
Cool-season vegetables include beet, broccoli, cabbage,
carrot, lettuce, onion, pea, potato, radish, spinach and
turnip. These are hardy or frost tolerant plants and
germinate in cold soil. They can be planted in the fall,
winter or early spring depending on location. For best
quality these crops need to mature during cooler periods
rather than in the heat of the summer.
Warm-season vegetables include beans, cucumber,
eggplant, melons, pepper, pumpkin, squash, sweet corn,
sweet potato and tomato. These do not tolerate frost but
need warm temperatures to set and properly mature
fruit. However, high temperatures reduce quality and
cause flower abortion. Examples: sunburned fruit, poorly
colored tomatoes, poor ear fill of sweet corn, and flowers
of tomato, pepper and beans drop. Elevation is indicative
of climate. In Arizona gardening occurs from almost sea
level to over 7,000 feet. Two problem periods exist—the
hot summer at lower elevations and cold winter at higher
elevations. Since these conditions should be avoided for
many vegetables, considerations should be made when
planning the garden planting schedule.
At lower elevations up to 3,000 feet, two main planting
periods are generally followed—early spring period
for warm-season vegetables and late summer to winter
period for cool-season crops. In the higher elevations
3,000 to 6,000 feet, there is one main cropping period
which is planted during the spring and early summer.
Although, at these elevations in Central and Southern
Arizona, an early fall planting of cool season vegetables
is usually productive.
The lists below give suggested planting dates
for different elevations. These guides are based on
experience, observation, frost dates, hardiness and other
characteristics of vegetable species. Elevations for certain
locations in Arizona are listed above. Find the elevation
closest to your location and use these dates along with
local experience to develop a vegetable planting program.
County Cooperative Extension Offices can offer advice as
well as local nurseries and garden centers.
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These diagrams show some commonly-used systems for growing garden vegetables.
Figure A: The soil-bed technique allows for furrow irrigation water to move from furrow ditches into the bed, pushing salts to
the center. To avoid salt problems plant near the bed edge. When using furrow irrigation a slight slope is needed so water will
run down the furrow.
Figure B: Make raised beds using railroad ties, landscaping wood, lumber,
blocks or rocks. The bed is filled with at least one foot of soil, organic matter,
sand, perilite and other materials that promote good plant growth. Raised
beds should be used when an area does not have good soil.
In windy areas, sunken beds might be considered to protect young plants
and collect water.
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Figure C: Water can be applied by drip or soaker hose, furrow, or
sprinkler, irrigation. There are many types of systems available that apply
water efficiently. Whatever method is used, adequate watering moves salts
down and away from the plant roots. Select a system that meets the need
and can be managed properly.
VEGETABLE PLANTING DATES
Vegetable Species
10 to 1000 feet
1000 to 2000 feet
2000 to 3000 feet
Asparagus
Oct. 1-Feb. 1
Oct. 1-Mar. 1
Oct. 1-Mar. 1
Bean,bush
Feb. 1-Mar. 1
Feb. 15-Mar. 15
Mar. 1-Apr. 1
Aug. 1-Sept. 1
July 25-Aug. 15
July 15-Aug. 15
Bean, pole
Aug. 1-Sept. 1
July 15-Aug. 15
July 15-Aug. 10
Bean, lima
Feb. 1-Mar. 1
Feb. 15-Mar. 15
Mar. 1-Apr. 1
Bean, edible soy
Mar. 1-May 1
Mar. 15-June 1
Apr. 1-June 1
Beet
Sept. 15-Mar. 1
Sept. 1-Mar. 15
Aug. 25-Apr. 1
Broccoli
Sept. 1-Jan. 1
Sept. 1-Dec. 1
July 25-Oct. 1
Brussels Sprouts
Sept. 1-Jan. 1
Sept. 1-Dec. 1
Aug. 15-Oct. 1
Cabbage (seed)
Sept. 1-Nov. 20
Aug. 15-Dec. 1
Aug. 1-Dec. 1
Cabbage (plants)
Oct. 1-Dec. 1
Sept. 15-Jan. 1
Sept. 1-Feb. 1
Cantaloupe
Dec. 1-Apr. 10
Feb. 15-Apr. 1
Mar. 15-June 1
Carrot
July 15-Aug. 15
Sept. 1-Mar. 1
Aug. 25- Mar.15
Sept. 1-Jan. 1
Cauliflower
Same as cabbage
Same as cabbage
Same as cabbage
Celery
October 15
Aug. 15-Oct. 15
Aug. 1-Oct. 15
Chard
Sept. 1-Jan. 1
Sept. 1-Mar. 1
Aug. 15-Apr. 1
Chinese Cabbage
Sept. 15-Dec. 1
Sept 1-Jan. 1
Aug.15-Jan.15
Collard
Sept. 15-Dec. 1
Sept. 1-Jan. 1
Sept.1 -Jan.15
Feb. 15-Mar. 1
Feb. 15-Mar. 15
Mar. 15-Apr. 1
July 30-Aug. 30
July 20-Aug. 20
July 15-Aug. 15
June 20-July 20
July 1-July 5
Mar. 1-Apr. 1
Mar. 20-May 15
Aug. 15-Sept. 15
Aug. 1-Sept. 1
Feb. 1-Apr. 1
Apr. 1-May 15
Corn, sweet
Corn, Mexican June
Cucumber
Dec. 1-Apr. 1
Eggplant
Jan. 15-Apr. 1
Endive
Sept. 1-Dec. 1
Sept. 1-Jan. 1
Sept. 1-Feb. 1
Garlic
Sept. 1-Dec. 1
Sept. 1-Dec. 1
Sept. 1-Jan. 1
Not adapted
Not adapted
Nov. 1-Feb. 1
Kale
Sept. 1-Dec. 1
Sept. 1-Dec. 1
Aug. 15-Feb. 15
Kohlrabi
Sept. 1-Dec. 1
Sept. 1-Dec. 1
Sept. 1-Feb. 1
Leek
Sept. 15-Dec. 15
Sept. 1-Jan. 1
Sept. 1-Jan. 15
Lettuce, head
Sept. 20-Nov. 20
Sept. 1-Jan. 1
Sept. 1-Feb. 15
Lettuce, leaf
Sept. 20-Jan. 1
Sept. 1-Mar. 1
Aug. 20-Apr. 1
Muskmelon
Dec. 1-Apr. 10
Feb. 15-Apr. 1
Apr. 1-July 15
Horseradish
July 1-Aug. 1
Mustard
Okra
Sept. 15-Dec. 15
Sept. 1-Jan. 1
Sept. 1-Feb. 1
Mar. 1-Apr. 15
Mar. 1-June 1
Apr. -June 15
Onion, green bunch
Sept. 15-Jan. 15
Sept. 1-Feb. 1
Aug. 15-Feb. 1
Onion, dry (seeds)
Nov.1-Dec.15
Oct. 15-Jan. 1
Oct. 15-Jan. 1
Nov. 15-Jan. 15
Nov. 1-Feb. 1
Nov. 1-Feb. 15
Onion, dry (sets)
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Vegetable Species
10 to 1000 feet
1000 to 2000 feet
2000 to 3000 feet
Parsley
Oct. 1-Jan. 15
Sept. 1-Jan. 1
Sept. 1-Jan. 15
Parsnip
Not adapted
Sept. 1-Jan. 1
Sept. 1-Jan. 15
Pea, fall
Sept. 10-Sept. 20
Aug. 15-Sept. 15
Aug. 15-Sept. 15
Jan. 20-Feb. 15
Oct. 15-Dec. 15
Feb. 1-Mar. 15
Pepper (seed)
Nov.-Jan.
Feb. 1-Mar. 1
Feb. 15-Mar. 15
Pepper (plants)
Feb. 1-Mar. 15
Mar. 1-Apr. 1
Apr. 1-June 1
Potato, Irish
Sept. 1-Feb. 15
Feb. 1-Mar. 15
Feb. 15-May 1
Potato, sweet
Mar. 1-June 20
Mar. 1-June 1
May 1-June 15
Pumpkin
July 15-Aug. 15
July 1-Aug. 1
Apr. 1-July 15
Radish
Sept. 1-Apr. 1
Sept 1-Apr. 15
Aug. 5-May 1
Rhubarb
Not adapted
Not adapted
Oct. 1-Mar. 1
Rutabaga
Sept. 15-Jan. 15
Sept. 1-Feb. 1
Aug. 20-Mar. 1
Pea, spring
Salsify
Not adapted
Not adapted
Oct. 1-Dec. 1
Spinach
Sept. 15-Feb. 1
Sept. 1-Feb. 1
Aug. 20-Mar. 1
Squash, summer
Dec. 15-Apr. 10
Feb. 1-May 1
Mar. 15-July 15
Squash, winter
July 15-Aug. 15
July 1-31
July 1- July 31
Tomato (seed)
Nov.-Jan.
Jan. 1-Mar.1
Jan. 10-Feb. 15
Tomato (plants)
Jan.-Mar. 15
Feb. 15-Mar. 15
Mar. 15- Apr. 15
Turnip
Sept. 15-Feb. 1
Sept. 1-Feb. 1
Aug. 15- Mar. 1
Watermelon
Dec. 15-Apr. 1
Feb. 15-Apr. 1
Mar. 15- June 1
3000 to 4500 feet
4500 to 6000 feet
Above 6000 feet
Vegetable Species
Asparagus
Feb. 15-Apr. 1
April 1-30
Apr. 15-May 15
Bean, bush
Apr. 25-July 15
May 15-July 1
May 25-June 15
Bean, pole
Apr. 25-July 15
May 15-July 1
May 25-June 15
Bean, lima
Apr. 25-July 15
May 15-July 1
May 25-June 15
Bean, edible soy
May 15-July 1
May 25-July 1
Not adapted
Beet
Mar. 1-May 15
May 1-July 15
May15-June15
Broccoli
Feb. 15-Aug. 1
Apr. 1-July 15
Not adapted
Sept. 1-Oct. 15
Brussels Sprouts
July 1-Aug. 1
June 1-July 1
May 15-June 15
Cabbage (seed)
Feb. 15-Apr. 15
March 15-30
April 1-15
Cabbage (plants)
Mar. 15-May 1
Aug. 20-Oct. 1
May 1- June 1
May 15-June 15
Cantaloupe
May 1-June 20
May 15-June 15
May 25-June 10
Carrot
Mar. 1-May 10
May 1-July 15
May 15-July 1
Same as cabbage
Same as cabbage
Same as cabbage
Celery (plants)
May 15-June 20
June 1-July 15
Not adapted
Chard
July 15-Sept. 15
July 1-Aug. 1
Feb. 15-Apr. 30
Mar. 1-Apr. 10
Apr. 1-June 10
Chinese Cabbage
July 1-Sept.15
June 1-July 15
May 15-June 15
Collard
June 15-Aug. 1
June 1-July 15
May 15-July 1
July 15-Sept. 15
Cauliflower
The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
Vegetable Species
3000 to 4500 feet
4500 to 6000 feet
Above 6000 feet
May 10-July 15
May 25-July 1
June 1-10
Corn, Mexican June
May 10-July 15
May 25-June 15
Not adapted
Cucumber
May 10-June 15
May 15-June 15
June 1-25
Eggplant (plants)
May 1-June 15
May 15-June 15
June 1-20
Endive
Feb. 1-Apr. 1
Apr. 15-June 15
May 15-June 15
Garlic
Feb. 15-Apr. 10
April 1-30 (cloves)
Not adapted
Feb.-Apr.
Feb. 15-Mar. 15
April-May
Feb. 1-Mar. 20
Feb. 15-Apr 10
April-May
Corn, sweet
Sept. 15-Nov. 15
Horseradish
Kale
Aug. 1-Sept. 15
Kohlrabi
Feb. 15-Apr. 1
Apr.15-May15
May 15-June 1
Leek
Feb. 15-Apr. 10
April 1-30
Not adapted
Lettuce, head
Feb. 15-Mar. 15
July 1-Aug. 1
June 1-30
Mar. 1-Apr. 15
Mar. 15-Apr.15
May 1- July 1
July 15-Sept. 15
Aug. 1-Sept.15
Muskmelon
May 10-June 15
May 15-June 15
Not adapted
Mustard
Feb. 15-July 15
Apr. 1-July 1
April-May
Okra
May 10-July 1
May 15-June 15
June 1-10
Onion, green bunch
Feb. 15-May 1
Apr. 15-May 1
May 1-31
Onion, dry (seeds)
Jan. 15-Mar. 15
Feb. 15-Apr. 15
April 1-30
Sept. 15-Nov. 15
Oct. 15-Jan. 1
Oct. 15-Jan. 1
Sept. 15-Nov. 15
Nov. 1-Feb. 1
Nov. 1-Feb. 15
July 15-Aug. 15
Lettuce, leaf
Onions, dry (sets)
Feb. 15-Apr. 15
Apr. 1-15
Apr. 15-June 1
Parsley
May 1-June 15
Apr. 1-15
May 1-31
Parsnip
Mar. 1-May 1
Apr. 1-May 20
April-May
Pea, spring
Feb. 1-Mar. 15
Feb. 15-Aug. 15
May 1-June 1
Pea, fall
Aug. 25-Oct. 15
Aug. 1-Sept. 1
Not adapted
Pepper (seed)
Feb. 15-Mar. 30
Mar. 1-Apr. 1
Apr. 1-15
Pepper (plants)
May 10-June 1
May 10-Aug. 25
May 15-June 1
Potato, Irish
Mar. 20-Apr. 20
May 10-June 1
May 15-June 1
May 10-25
May 15-20
Not adapted
May 15-July 1
May 20-June 15
May 25-June 10
Mar. 1-May 15
Apr. 1-June 15
May 15-June15
July 25-Aug. 15
Potato, sweet
Pumpkin
Radish
July 15-Sept. 15
Rhubarb
Mar. 1-Apr. 20
Mar. 1-Apr. 1
April 1-30
Rutabaga
Mar. 1-Apr. 1
Apr. 1-May 15
May 1-June 1
Salsify
Mar. 15-June 1
Apr. 1-May 15
May 1-June 1
Spinach
Feb. 15-Apr. 15
Apr. 1-May 15
May 1-June 1
Sept. 15-Oct. 15
Squash. summer
May 10-July 15
May 1-July 1
May 15-June 15
Squash, winter
May 10-July 1
May 15-July 1
May 15-June 10
The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
Vegetable Species
3000 to 4500 feet
4500 to 6000 feet
Above 6000 feet
Tomato (seed)
Mar. 1-Apr. 1
Mar. 1-Apr. 1
Apr. 1-10
Tomato (plants)
May 1-June 15
May 10-June 1
May 25-June 10
Turnip
Mar. 1-Apr. 15
Apr. 1-May15
May 15-June 1
May 1-June 1
Not adapted
Aug. 15-Sept.15
Watermelon
May 10-July 15
ARIZONA COOP E R AT I V E
E TENSION
THE UNIVERSITY OF ARIZONA
COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURE AND LIFE SCIENCES
The University of Arizona
College of Agriculture and Life Sciences
Tucson, Arizona 85721
Norman F. Oebker
Vegetable Specialist, Emeritus
Robert E. Call
Horticulture Agent
Contact:
Robert E. Call
[email protected]
This information has been reviewed by university faculty.
cals.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1435.pdf
Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the U.S. Department of Agriculture,
James A. Christenson, Director, Cooperative Extension, College of Agriculture & Life Sciences, The University of Arizona.
The University of Arizona is an equal opportunity, affirmative action institution. The University does not discriminate on the basis of race, color,
religion, sex, national origin, age, disability, veteran status, or sexual orientation in its programs and activities.
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The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension