WDAC 1 Austin Motor Company Armoured Car (Third Series)

WDAC 1
Austin Motor Company
Armoured Car (Third Series)
(British Army Version with parts for later Indian Pattern vehicles)
History
Herbert Austin founded the Austin Motor Company at Longbridge, near Birmingham in 1905. The Company
soon prospered and, during the First World War, underwent a massive expansion producing shells, guns,
vehicles and aircraft.
In 1914 the Company was approached by the Imperial Russian Army to design a new armoured car. This was
the Austin First Series, followed by the Second Series in 1915 and the Third in 1917. The Third Series were built
on the ‘Colonial’ Chassis with a top speed of 35 mph. Due to the Russian Revolution in late 1917, these Third
Series vehicles were not delivered and were instead transferred to the 17th (Armoured Car) Battalion. The twin
turrets were originally designed for the Maxim machine gun but were fitted with the Hotchkiss as favoured by
the Tank Corp. Sixteen Austin Third Series armoured cars were employed in two Companies, each of which
was further subdivided into four sections with two cars per section. At the Battle of Amiens they proved
invaluable. Roaming far behind enemy lines they created havoc. Their impact was out of all proportion to the
number of cars involved.
The Austin armoured cars also saw service in other parts of the British Empire and in Ireland during the
Troubles. Parts are included in this kit to make the Indian Pattern version.
After the War, the Austin armoured car was used widely - by both sides in the Russian Revolution - as well as
Japan, Poland and Finland. As there are subtle differences in these vehicles, we will be bringing out a separate kit
for these versions at a later date. We understand the Finnish version was identical to the Indian Pattern so can
be built from this kit.
W^D Models are grateful to Geoff Lacey for the use of his scale drawings, staff at the Tank Museum, Bovington
for their advice and photographs. A special thanks to Ian Turner for the masters, Michel Boer for the transfers
and, as ever, David Gander, for his help, support, advice and instructions.
Before you begin!
This kit is produced using two materials – cast whitemetal and cast resin. Both are potentially harmful if not
handled or used as intended. Do not feel tempted to place any parts in your mouth! Please wash your hands
after a building session. The dust caused whilst filing or sanding must not be breathed in and we recommend the
use of a small face mask when sanding resin.
The detail parts are cast in a high quality whitemetal to provide as much detail as possible. Casting marks and
‘flash’ should be minimal but can be removed carefully with a knife blade, fine file or fine grained sanding paper.
Some of the smaller parts – including the lamps, foot pedals and front brush holder are cast on to a sprue which
also needs removing. Hold the sprue carefully using a pair of fine nosed pliers and carefully cut the parts away.
The resin parts should feature minimal casting marks but again these can be removed with a fine file, knife blade
or fine sanding paper. Take extra care as the resin is softer than the whitemetal and material will be removed
quicker. The resin should be carefully washed and dried to remove any mould release. Warm water is best for
this. Don’t use washing-up liquid – it often contains a de-greasant which may prevent glue from sticking to the
resin.
We recommend that the parts are glued together using either‘super glue’ – ACC - or a quick setting epoxy
resin such as ‘Araldite’. Don’t be tempted to use the ‘instant’ versions of these products. A little time to adjust
the fit is always wise! Always follow the adhesive manufacturers’ instructions and take care not to stick yourself
to the kit!
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Construction
When building this kit, please take note of the various model and prototype photographs. These have been provided to
assist you in identifying and locating the parts. A full list of parts can be found on page 3.
1) Take the chassis (1) and ensure it is level. Drill out the holes in the rear springs to take the axles. Carefully sand the
underside of the main body moulding (2) to ensure it is flat and level. Glue the chassis to the underside of the body.
2) Fit the various white metal details as follows: Driver’s flap lower (3), Driver’s flap upper (4), the rear driver’s flap (5), the
two stowage boxes (6), the driver’s door (7) and driver’s door flap (8).
3) For the British Army version: take an axle / hub cap (9) and thread two rear wheels (10) onto it, tight up to the hubcap.
Once glued, add the inner hub (11) and glue tight up to the rear of the wheels. Trim the axle to fit and glue the rear axle
assembly in to the hole in the rear spring. Repeat and fix the other side.
4) Take an axle / hub cap (9) and thread on a front wheel (12). Cut the axle flush with the wheel rear. Following the
photograph on page 3, glue a wheel to the end of the front axle (13). Once fixed, repeat with the other wheel. Once both
are fixed, glue the front axle between the front springs. Add the steering linkage (14) to the top of the front axle.
5) For the Indian Pattern version: cut the hub cap off the axle / hub cap (9). Take the rear wheel (21) and insert the axle
into the hole in the wheel rear. When set, trim to fit and fix into the hole in the spring.
6) Take an axle / hub cap (9) and thread on a front wheel (22). Cut the axle flush with the wheel rear. Following the
photograph on page 3, glue a wheel to the end of the front axle (13). Once fixed, repeat with the other wheel. Once both
are fixed, glue the front axle between the front springs. Add the steering linkage (14) to the top of the front axle.
7) For both versions: add the Petrol / Oil / Water carrier (15) to the chassis side to the left of the driver’s door. Add the
foot step (16) below the driver’s door. Add the unditching beams (17) on the non door side.
8) For the British Army version: take each turret (18) and sand the underside to ensure that they are level. Fit the
Hotchkiss guns (19). Each pair of small shields (20) fit either side of the gun mounting.
9) For the Indian Pattern or Finnish version: take each turret (18) and sand the underside to ensure that they are level. Fit
the Vickers guns (23). Each pair of large shields (24) fit either side of the gun mounting. Each is supported by a gun shield
brace (25) as shown in the photograph on page 3.
Painting
After carefully ensuring that all model surfaces are clean from grease and dust, prime the model with the primer of your
choice.
We have been unable to get detailed information on the paint colours used. One published photograph, taken at the time
of the Battle of Amiens, is thought to show that they were painted sky blue above the bonnet level and khaki below in the
hope that they would not show up against the horizon. If anyone has more definitive information then please do get in
touch. For the Indian Pattern version, the photographs suggest an overall light colour - but there instances of some very
vivid camouflage schemes!
Transfers
The transfer designs are taken from various examples shown in the photographs on page 4. Please refer to these when
finishing your selected version.
The transfers supplied are fine waterslide transfers. The carrier film has been kept to a minimum but try to trim each
transfer as close as possible to the lettering. Transfers are best applied to a gloss painted surface in order for them to sit
over detail. Once dried, seal the transfers with an acrylic clear varnish (Tamiya, Lifecolor or Vallejo) and not an enamel
(Humbrol or Revell) finish as these may damage the decals. The same goes for products like Microscale Set / Sol decal
softeners which may also harm the finish of the transfers. Please be warned - replacement transfer sheets may not be
available so take care!
References and source material:
War Cars. British Armoured Cars in the First World War by David Fletcher. (HMSO 1987 – out of Print)
Landships – dedicated to modelling WWI hardware – www.landships.freeservers.com
Warwheels.net – excellent links to Austin armoured car sites - www.warwheels.net
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Parts List
1. Chassis
2. Body
3. Driver’s flap lower
4. Driver’s flap upper
5. Rear driver’s flap
6. Stowage boxes x 2
7. Driver’s door
8. Driver’s door flap
9. Axle / hub cap x 4
10. Rear wheels x 4
11. Rear wheel inside hubs x 2
12. Front wheels x 2
13. Front axle
14. Steering linkage
15. Petrol / Oil / Water carrier
16. Foot step
17. Unditching beams x 2
18. Turrets x 2
19. Hotchkiss machine gun x 2
20. Small shields x 4
The front wheel is fixed to the end of the front axle.
Ensure it is central within the wheel – there is no location
peg.
Parts for Indian Pattern and Finnish
Versions
21. Single NAP rear tyres x 2
22. Double NAP front tyres x 2
23. Vickers machine guns x 2
24. Large shields x 4
25. Gun shield brace x 4
The Indian Pattern turret showing the fitting of the larger
shields and shield braces – repeat on the other side.
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A British Army version, Third section, Second vehicle. Note
the ‘Thumbs up’ livery above driver’s flap and the starting
handle in place.
Another picture of the same vehicle – turrets this time
pointing to the rear. Note placement of Section identification
and position of P.O.W rack, footstep and rear stowage box.
A British Army version on the move. Second vehicle, second
section. Note the light stripes on bonnet as above, the chain
hanging from the chassis front, front mudguard supports and
turret access flap handles.
A British Army version unidentified. A headlamp has been
fitted on the bonnet front and a pair of eyes painted on the
turrets. Here is the full crew of four – driver, second man
and two gunners.
An Indian Pattern vehicle unidentified except for the name
‘DEER’ on the bonnet side. Note the larger gun shields and
braces, solid NAP wheels and a slightly different pattern of
unditching board.
Another Indian Pattern vehicle – one turret facing in each
direction. Transfers for this version are supplied – note the
registration number on the bottom rear (with a similar front
location) and the numbers on the turret.
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