From BB to CC Creams – Innovative Formulation of Multitasking Care 9-2012

9-2012
English Edition
International Journal for Applied Science
• Personal Care • Detergents • Specialties
T. Baldecchi
J. zur Lage, R. Bai, S. Wu
J. Zhuang, G. Witte,
F. Pflücker
From BB to CC Creams –
Innovative Formulation
of Multitasking Care
CO S M ET I C S
BLEMISH BALM
T. BaldecchiR, J. zur Lage*, R. Bai**, S. Wu***, J. Zhuang****, G. Witte*, F. Pflücker*
From BB to CC Creams –
Innovative Formulation of Multitasking Care
■ The Origins
The German dermatologist Dr. C. Schrammek is said to be the inventor of the
original »Blemish Balm« product that was
reported to be created in the 1960’s (1).
The main goal of the original multi-tasking product was to protect and soothe
the skin after surgery and at the same
time, to provide light coverage to hide
marks or redness that could have been
induced by this operation.
The product was taken to South Korea by
nurses in the 1970’s and, by word of
mouth, it gained a lot of popularity in that
country during the 1980’s and 1990’s. Its
success is due to the natural nude look
that the product confers while smoothing out any visible imperfection on the
skin. Compared to foundation, its added
value is that it is less drying and heavy.
It also has added benefits such as antiaging, sun-protection and skin whitening properties. One proof that these
products have become a compelling reference in Asia is that the creams have
successfully broadened their market segments, as BB creams for men’s care exist
in Korea and Japan. Because of the fact
that the wording Blemish Balm is protected by copyright, the name »BB cream«
is the phrase that is widely used nowadays. Nevertheless, to get rid of this barrier, some creative brands make the initial BB stand for Blemish Base, Beauty
Balm or Beblesh Balm.
■ The World is a Global Village
As it was said to be the beauty secret of
popular Korean actresses and singers, the
use of the BB cream rapidly spread to
2
other Asian countries such as Japan, Taiwan, China or Singapore in the following decade. In the last two years, BB
creams also raised interest in Western
countries. The possibility to replace a
foundation (2), a moisturizer, an antiaging cream, a UV-protection (and even
more) with a single product was certainly the main reason for their fast-growing popularity among urban and active
women who have less and less time to
spend in caring for their look. Nevertheless, even though the concept of the hybrid cream was seductive, formulators had
to adapt the product to meet the specific needs of their targeted customers before such a product could be successful
in Europe and in the USA. Changes in the
Abstract
ast year, European and North
American customers saw the
novelty come from East with
the first massive launches of BB
creams. This multitasking product
immediately became a huge trend
because the cream delivers immediate results by correcting visible
skin imperfections --like a foundation-- and also adds long term
benefits, by treating the skin -like a traditional skin care product.
L
sensorial profile had to be taken into account, same as the colors and shades to
match a Caucasian or Ethnic skin tone
(3).
■ CC Cream –
The BB Cream Version 2.0?
While the BB cream is the trendy, musthave product at the moment in Europe,
a new generation of products has just
been launched to compete with it in the
Asian market. CC creams, usually claimed
that this stands for Colour Control, are
the new hot topic in Today’s Asian market (4). It is remarkable to see that a
French company like Chanel decided to
launch its CC cream Complete Correction
only in the Asian market. CC creams can
be seen as an improved version of the BB
cream concept with a better coverage,
an enhanced skin feel and also active
compounds with higher efficacy and
better long-term results on the skin. On
their way to Europe, BB creams already
had to adjust these parameters so it may
be the case that, if a formulator paid major attention to the previously exposed
properties while creating his BB cream,
this formula already meets all the criteria of a CC cream.
Let us take a closer look at the formulation aspects and the challenges formulators face.
■ Challenge I –
An Optimized BB/CC Creams Base
»How can I introduce the color pigments
without negative interfering with my
current skin care emulsion system?« or
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CO S M ET I C S
BLEMISH BALM
»How can I achieve a stable, weightless
and light covering foundation with the
addition of the desired active ingredients ?« Before starting formulating a BB/
CC cream, the formulator needs to take
into account the aspects of both the skin
care emulsion (sensorial feel, texture,
stability etc) and the make-up product
(skin coverage, skin adhesion, long lasting effect etc.).
Of course, the choice of the emulsion
system is of paramount importance. BB
creams were originally inspired by the
color cosmetic formulations so it was not
unusual to find W/Si or W/O systems
which are very popular due to their ability to ensure an optimal dispersion of a
higher amount of pigments, a great sensorial feel and/or a long lasting effect.
But O/W systems are getting more popular because of its light weight and less
oily skin feel. In many cases, O/W system
also enables an easy process to incorporate the heat sensitive active ingredients.
This is all the more true for European
customers for which O/W systems are
somehow a standard for facial care, BB
creams included, as they display better
moisturizing properties. We can underline that the trend for O/W emulsions totally fits in the CC cream concept where
a less oily texture is displayed and more
active ingredients are incorporated.
Starting working with pigments when
you are used to formulating only white
creams does often generate a lot of anxiety. Some are even wondering whether
they will get their lab coat, lab bench and
mixing equipment clean again, other are
afraid of handling those insoluble particles. To achieve a homogeneous product
with an even skin coverage during the
application, it is critical to make the right
choice of the pigments and their use levels. A pre-dispersion step or the use of
a dispersing aid, e.g. a wetting agent,
could be very helpful. For W/Si structure,
hydrophobically treated pigments are
usually preferred as they can be easily
dispersed in the external oil phase. For
O/W emulsion type, non-treated or hydrophilically treated pigments (such as
glycerin coated pigments) can be recommended. For process reasons, it may
happen that you have to disperse your
pigments in the internal phase. You will
then have to reconsider the selection of
SOFW-Journal | 138 | 9-2012
the pigments. Nevertheless, depending
on the use-level, you really have to ensure that the emulsion structure can
cope with the pigment load in terms of
stability but also aesthetics (5).
Formulating an O/W BB cream is a challenge that is very similar to formulating
an O/W sunscreen with inorganic UV-filters. Thus, it is interesting to have a closer look to what is in a »mineral« sunscreen. As the emulsifiers and emollients
have the tendency to be absorbed onto
the large surface area of the pigments
used, the pigment and oil phase ratio, as
well as the process would be critical to
the texture and long term stability of the
finished prototypes. It is recommended
to disperse the pigments in the emollients before adding the emulsifiers. Extra emulsifiers could improve the stability in long run. Since higher levels of
emollients are needed in the prototypes
with high level of pigment, light emollients with high spreading properties
are highly recommended. The following
emollients, which are widely used in sunscreen formulation, are likely to ensure
an optimal balance between good pigment dispersion and pleasant skin feel:
propylheptyl caprylate, dicaprylyl carbonate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, isodecyl
neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate,
ethylhexyl stearate or caprylic/capric triglycerides.
Rheology modifiers and stabilizers, such
as synthetic polymer or natural hydrocolloids or clay, could also play an important role in the texture and skin feel
of the O/W type of BB/CC Creams. With
different use levels, or the combination
use of different rheology modifiers, interesting textures can be generated with
desired skin feel.
■ Challenge II –
The Right Choice of the Color &
Functional Additives
Due to the difference of the skin tone
between Asian and Caucasian women,
the preference of the BB cream colors
and shades are quite different too. In
Western countries, customers will look
for colors ranging from peach to beige
whereas in Asia, the requests will focus
on ivory/porcelain skin tone with pink
shades. As the BB cream is supposed to
give a natural look to the face, the consumers should select a color which is
closest to their skin tone. At the moment,
one big limitation is that the range of
colors available for BB or CC creams is
not as wide as the one for foundations
but be sure that if they keep on gaining
popularity, this will be quickly solved.
An alternative to the traditional iron
oxides (CI77491, CI77492 and CI77499)
and pigmentary grade titanium dioxide
(CI77891) could be the use of mass-tone
colored interferential pigments. Due to
their specific structure composed of a
Mica substrate and a Titanium dioxide
and iron oxide coating, they display a
subtle colored interference that is more
transparent than pure iron oxide and
gives a more natural look without any
»mask effect«. As they are plateletshaped, the bigger the particle size, the
shinier is the effect. Thus to achieve a
matte appearance, smaller particle pigments (<50µm) are preferable in the BB
cream applications. In addition to them,
pure interferential pigments, i.e. particles with a white mass-tone and a colored interference, could be helpful for
the skin tone adjustment: for Caucasian
skin, the use of pink or red interference
pigments will warm up the face and confer to it a radiant look; for Asian skin, immediate optical whitening properties
could be achieved with a blue interference that counterbalances yellow hues.
Functional fillers such as silica beads
(alone or combined with mica platelets),
bismuth oxychloride or boron nitride,
could also be of interest. These inorganic particles can contribute to improve
the skin feel and the spreading properties. Other fillers like particles displaying
a soft focus effect are often used in BB
creams. They smooth out skin imperfection to achieve an immediate optical
wrinkle reduction and a smoother skin
tone.
As the consumers are more educated in
regards to the aging process by the sun
damaging to the skin, a UV protection
claims are almost essential to the BB
Cream products. CC creams tend to claim
a higher SPF, which is consistent with the
fact that they are meant to provide an
enhanced protection and efficacy than
the BB creams. When it comes to select
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CO S M ET I C S
BLEMISH BALM
the suitable sun protection systems, there
are several parameters to be checked.
Photostability, broad spectrum protection and the compatibility with other ingredients (iron oxides above all) have to
be taken into account especially when
formulating with organic UV-filters. The
Phase A
right balance between protection and
skin feel is not easy to reach as some organic UV-filters may impart tackiness to
the formulation. Here encapsulated UV
filters could be an elegant way to optimize the skin feeling without loss of UV
protection. Furthermore, we already men-
Ingredients
INCI
(%)
UV-TITAN M765 1)
Eusolex® OCR 1)
Eusolex® 9020 1)
RonaCare® AP 1)
RonaCare® Bisabolol 1)
RonaFlair® Soft Sphere 1)
RonaFlair® LDP White 1)
TITANIUM DIOXIDE, TRIETHOXYCAPRYLYLSILANE, ALUMINA
OCTOCRYLENE
BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE
BIS-ETHYLHEXYL HYDROXYDIMETHOXY BENZYLMALONATE
BISABOLOL
SYNTHETIC FLUORPHLOGOPITE, SILICA
SODIUM POTASSIUM ALUMINUM SILICATE, CI 77891
(TITANIUM DIOXIDE), SILICA
MICA, CI 77163 (BISMUTH OXYCHLORIDE), CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES),
CI 77492 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES)
CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), DIMETHICONE, DISODIUM CAPRYLOYL
GLUTAMATE
CI 77492 (IRON OXIDES), DIMETHICONE, DISODIUM CAPRYLOYL
GLUTAMATE
PEG-30 DIPOLYHYDROXYSTEARATE
CYCLOPENTASILOXANE, DIMETHICONE/VINYL DIMETHICONE
CROSSPOLYMER
DIMETHICONE, DIMETHICONE PEG-10/15 CROSSPOLYMER
PEG-10 DIMETHICONE
PEG-9 POLYDIMETHYLSILOXYETHYL DIMETHICONE
PPG-15 STEARYL ETHER BENZOATE, C12-15 ALKYL BENZOATE,
DIPROPYLENE GLYCOL DIBENZOATE
ETHYLHEXYL STEARATE
DIMETHICONE
CYCLOPENTASILOXANE, CYCLOHEXASILOXANE
XANTHAN GUM
AMMONIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETYLTAURATE / VP COPOLYMER
BUTYLENE GLYCOL
q.s.
AQUA (WATER)
TITANIUM DIOXIDE, SILICA, GLYCERIN
ECTOIN
BUTYLENE GLYCOL
SODIUM CHLORIDE
SODIUM CITRATE
3.00
9.00
2.50
2.00
0.20
2.00
Colorona® Imperial Topaz 1)
MiBrid Color Powder
SA/NAI-TR-10 2)
MiBrid Color Powder
SA/NAI-Y-10 2)
Cithrol DPHS 3)
KSG-15 4)
KSG-210 4)
KF-6017 4)
KF-6028 4)
Tegosoft TPP 5)
Phase B
Phase C
tioned some tips for incorporating mineral UV-filters in the emulsion as it is
similar to dispersing pigments. Inorganic
UV-filters are well appreciated by Asian
formulators because they contribute to
the hiding property of the formulation
while giving a slight whitening effect.
Crodamol OSU 3)
Dow Corning 200 (5cs) 6)
Xiameter® PMX-0345 6)
Keltrol CG-RD 7)
Aristoflex AVC 8)
1.3-Butanediol 1)
Complexing agent
Water, demineralized
UV-TITAN M040 1)
RonaCare® Ectoin 1)
1.3-Butanediol 1)
RonaCare® Sodium Chloride 1)
RonaCare® Sodium Citrate 1)
Preservatives
2.00
0.60
5.00
0.20
2.00
2.00
2.00
0.30
1.00
4.00
4.00
6.00
4.00
0.20
0.50
3.00
32.00
5.00
0.20
6.00
1.00
0.30
q.s.
Procedure:
Add all ingredients of phase A and mix until uniform. Heat to 60 °C. Add all ingredients of phase B and mix until uniform.
Heat to 60 °C. Mix Phase B into phase A step by step. Homogenize. At 40 °C, stir for 10 minutes then add phase C. Homogenize.
Formulation 1 Multi-functional BB cream (W/Si). In vitro SPF = 58
4
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■ BB Cream Formulations
Merck Global Application Technology
(GAT) network consists of nine different
cosmetic laboratories located in Darmstadt, Paris, Philadelphia, Sao Paulo, Taipei & Shanghai.
Three BB Cream formulations developed
by the Merck GAT laboratories have been
chosen to demonstrate the possible BB
Cream prototype options as shown below:
•
The Multi-functional BB cream (Formulation 1) has been developed for
Phase A
Phase B
Phase C
the Chinese market. This dark pinkish
BB cream is a typical W/Si emulsion
with hydrophobically coated pigments.
With the use of both organic and inorganic UV-filters, this prototype has
provided a high SPF value and an effective UVA protection. PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate is used as a dispersing aid to improve the pigment dispersion and the emulsion stability.
Soft focus effect is provided by a light
diffusing pigment based on a silica
structure. The active compounds Bisabolol and Ectoin confer soothing
properties as well as an intense mois-
turization. Bis-ethylhexyl hydroxydimethoxy benzylmalonate generates
superb antioxidant power while providing sebum control.
• The sandy colour of the O/W emulsion
(Formulation 2) is adapted to fair skin
type within the Caucasian population
and has been developed for the European Market. It contains 10% of untreated pigments to get the appropriate color and hiding power. A high SPF
is achieved by a combination of organic UV-filters and surely the inorganic particles in the formula con-
Ingredients
INCI
(%)
RonaFlair® Soft Sphere 1)
RonaFlair® LDP White 1)
SYNTHETIC FLUORPHLOGOPITE, SILICA
SODIUM POTASSIUM ALUMINUM SILICATE, CI 77891
(TITANIUM DIOXIDE), SILICA
ECTOIN
GLYCERIN, AQUA (WATER)
TRIETHANOLAMINE
XANTHAN GUM
1.50
RonaCare® Ectoin 1)
Glycerol 85% 1)
Triethanolamine 1)
Keltrol CG-SFT 7)
Complexing agent
Water, demineralized
Titanium -(IV)- oxid 1)
Unipure Yellow LC 182 9)
Unipure Red LC 381 9)
Unipure Brown LC 889 9)
Unipure Blue LC 686 9)
Eusolex® OCR 1)
Eusolex® 9020 1)
RonaCare® AP 1)
Oxynex® K liquid 1)
Hydrolite-5 10)
Miglyol 812 N 11)
Montanov 202 12)
Eutanol G 13)
Avocado Oil 14)
Bentone Gel GTCC V 15)
Phase D
Simulgel EG 12)
Phase E
Preservatives
Fragrance Energy 16)
AQUA (WATER)
CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE)
CI 77492 (IRON OXIDES)
CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES)
CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES)
CI 77007 (ULTRAMARINE BLUE)
OCTOCRYLENE
BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE
BIS-ETHYLHEXYL HYDROXYDIMETHOXY BENZYLMALONATE
PEG-8, TOCOPHEROL, ASCORBYL PALMITATE, ASCORBIC ACID,
CITRIC ACID
PENTYLENE GLYCOL
CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE
ARACHIDYL ALCOHOL, BEHENYL ALCOHOL, ARACHIDYLGLUCOSIDE
OCTYLDODECANOL
PERSEA GRATISSIMA (AVOCADO OIL)
STEARALKONIUM HECTORITE, PROPYLENE CARBONATE,
CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE
SODIUM ACRYLATE/SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE
COPOLYMER, ISOHEXADECANE, POLYSORBATE 80
PARFUM
1.50
1.00
6.00
0.10
0.15
q.s.
48.62
9.00
0.74
0.15
0.07
0.04
8.00
1.50
1.00
0.03
5.00
5.00
4.00
2.80
2.00
1.00
0.60
q.s.
0.20
Procedure:
Add all ingredients of phase A and mix until uniform. Heat to 60 °C. Add all ingredients of phase B and mix until uniform.
Heat to 60 °C. Mix Phase B into phase A step by step. Homogenize. At 40 °C, stir for 10 minutes then add phase C. Homogenize.
Formulation 2 BB cream sand. In vitro SPF = 36
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CO S M ET I C S
BLEMISH BALM
Phase A
Phase B
Phase C
Phase D
Phase E
Phase F
Ingredients
INCI
Water, demineralized
1.3-Butanediol 1)
Pluracare E 400 13) PEG-8
Eusolex® T-PRO 1)
Colorona® Oriental Beige 1)
Parteck® LUB Talc 1)
Water, demineralized
Complexing agent
RonaCare® Ectoin 1)
Crodamol GTCC 3)
Vegetable Squalane 17)
RonaCare® AP 1)
Sensolene 18)
Montanov 202 6)
Simulgel NS 12)
AQUA (WATER)
BUTYLENE GLYCOL
(%)
TITANIUM DIOXIDE, ALUMINA, MANGANESE DIOXIDE
MICA, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES)
TALC
AQUA (WATER)
ECTOIN
CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE
SQUALANE
BIS-ETHYLHEXYL HYDROXYDIMETHOXY BENZYLMALONATE
ETHYLHEXYL OLIVATE
ARACHIDYL ALCOHOL, BEHENYL ALCOHOL, ARACHIDYLGLUCOSIDE
HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE/SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE
COPOLYMER, SQUALANE, POLYSORBATE 60
AQUA (WATER)
SORBITOL, DIHYDROXYMETHYLCHROMONE
SYNTHETIC FLUORPHLOGOPITE, SILICA
Water, demineralized
RonaCare® Luremin™ 1)
RonaFlair® Soft Sphere 1)
Preservatives
20.00
4.00
4.00
7.00
3.00
2.00
28.50
q.s.
2.00
7.00
4.00
1.00
2.00
5.00
1.50
5.00
2.00
2.00
q.s.
Procedure:
Prepare separetely phases A,B and C. Add phase B to A, then phase C to A/B. Heat A/B/C and D to 80 °C. Then add D to phase
A/B/C. Homogenize. Add phase E. Prepare phase F and maintain under agitation. At 40 °C, add phase F. Adjust pH to 5.5-6.0.
Formulation 3 BB cream »5 in 1 care«. SPF: between 15 and 25 (estimated)
tribute to the good overall sun protection. Here, the UVA filter Butyl
Methoxydibenzoylmethane is photostabilized by Octocrylene. Xanthan
gum, hectorite derivate and acrylate
polymers are needed for the stability
of the emulsion and the suspension of
color pigments. An optical wrinkle reduction and a zero imperfection skin
aspect can be obtained thanks to a
novel soft focus filler based on ceramic microspheres (INCI: Sodium
Potassium Aluminium Silicate, Titanium Dioxide, Silica).
used. The latter displays a broad-spectrum protection against harmful UVrays but also a proven anti-radical activity. The formulation provides a slight
skin coverage, leading to a very »nude«
result. Soft skin feeling can be achieved
thanks to a functional filler composed
of synthetic mica platelets and silica
beads. The following benefits are provided by a powerful cocktail of the
List of suppliers
1)
• The last formulation is a beige O/W
cream (Formulation 3). Also designed
for the European customers, the formulation is expected to display a
medium SPF. The mass tone of this BB
cream is only generated by the mixture of a beige interferential pigment
with a manganese-coated mineral
UV-filter. No additional iron oxide or
titanium dioxide particles have been
6
three active compounds Ectoin, Bisethylhexyl hydroxydimethoxy benzylmalonate and Dihydroxymethylchromone: cell protection and long
term moisturization, efficient prevention of oily and impure skin and
retinol-like anti-aging properties. The
emulsion system, the light texture and
the multiple activities are very likely to
support a CC cream claim here.
2)
3)
4)
5)
6)
7)
8)
9)
Merck KGaA/Rona®
Miyoshi
Croda GmbH
Shin Etsu SIlicones Europe B.V
Evonik
Dow Corning
C. P. Kelco
Clariant GmbH
Sensient Cosmetic Technologies
10)
11)
12)
13)
14)
15)
16)
17)
18)
Symrise
Sasol Germany GmbH
Seppic
BASF AG
Gustav Heess GmbH
Elementis Specialties
Cosnaderm GmbH
Laserson
B&T S.r.l.
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CO S M ET I C S
BLEMISH BALM
■ Conclusion
References
When skin care meets make-up, BB
cream definitively brings you the benefits of the two worlds. BB creams and
their latest improved version, CC creams,
are expected to continue to gain popularity not only in Asia but also in Europe
as well as the north and south American
markets. These multitasking (or multifunctional) cosmetic products provide a
nude look and a treated, protected skin
in one single application which is ideal
for customers who do not have the luxury of the time for the beauty routine.
Throughout the technical challenges
pointed out and the formulation examples, it has been highlighted that the
main task for a formulator is to guarantee a pleasant skin feel and texture while
perfectly incorporating color pigments.
We also noticed that there are still slight
differences between European and Asian
markets. Blemish Balms and Color Control creams are certainly products of
bright perspective and new developments are to be expected. Next steps
could be to offer a wider range of colors
to adjust to every skin types (6), just like
foundations. Anyway, it is just a matter
of time to discover what the initials of a
»DD cream« or »EE cream« will stand for!
(1) Schoeneck A., Eine Creme und ihre Geschichte.
Brigitte, June 2012, P83
SOFW-Journal | 138 | 9-2012
(2) Bénézet A., Complexion: when make-up turns
into care. Expression cosmétique N°9, May
2011, P54-55
(3) Goldfarb S., Une belle peau sinon rien. Cosmétiquemag N°130, June 2012, P49
(4) Scott R, Smith C., Colour control creams: the
new blemish balms. Personal Care, June 2012,
P16-17
(5) Baek Y.Y., Choi S., Blemish balm creams offer
flawless results. Personal Care, December 2011;
P60
(6) Martin-Phipps C., Foundations: the feminine
paradox, Expression cosmétique N°16, July 2012,
P22-26
R
Corresponding author:
Thierry Baldecchi
Merck Chimie S.A.S.
201 rue Carnot
94120 Fontenay-sous-Bois
France
Email:
[email protected]
Authors’ address:
* Jutta zur Lage, Gabriele Witte,
Frank Pfluecker
Merck KGaA
Business Field - Cosmetics
Frankfurter Str. 250
64293 Darmstadt
Germany
** Robert Bai
Merck Chemicals (Shanghai) Co., Ltd.
N°428, Sanbang Road, Chedun Town,
Songjiang
201611 Shanghai
P.R. China
*** Sherry Wu
Merck Ltd.,
6 F, N°89, Section 2, Ti-Ding Boulevard
Taipei, 114
Taiwan
**** Judy Zhuang,
EMD Chemicals,
One International Plaza, Suite 300
Philadelphia, PA 19113
United States of America
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