World of Flavors
Transcription
World of Flavors
World of Fl avors Recipes from America’s Test Kitchen brought to you by Diamond Crystal® Salt world of flavors · ii Table of contents SPICES & CONDIMENTS FROM AROUND THE WORLD III Herb and Spice Blends IV Global Seasoned Salt Blends VAsian Condiments RECIPES FROM AROUND THE WORLD 1 Latin-American · Grilled Corn with Latin-Spiced Butter 2 Peruvian · Peruvian Roast Chicken 3 Puerto Rican · Pork Pernil 4 Cuban · Cuban-Style Black Beans and Rice 5 Greek · Grilled Lamb Kofte 6 Korean · Korean Stir-Fried Beef with Kimchi 7 Vietnamese · Chicken Banh Mi 8 More Global Flavor Insights from Diamond Crystal® Salt world of flavors · iii Herb and Spice Blends from Around the World Pumpkin Pie Spice Thanksgiving Helpmate Herbes de Provence Flower Power Curry Powder Essence of India Blackening Spice Cajun Coating Most Americans reach for pumpkin pie spice just once a year. But in the test kitchen, we don’t limit its use to our pumpkin pie. We use it to flavor carrot cakes and spice cookies or as a shortcut to Moroccan chicken. No need to buy a jar—you can make your own. Combine ½ teaspoon cinnamon, ¼ teaspoon ginger, and ⅛ teaspoon each of nutmeg and allspice for every 1 teaspoon of pumpkin pie spice called for in a recipe. An aromatic blend from the south of France, herbes de Provence combines dried lavender flowers with rosemary, sage, thyme, marjoram, and fennel, and sometimes chervil, basil, tarragon, or savory. A natural partner for poultry and pork, herbes de Provence is worth trying in an herb butter—brush it under turkey or chicken skin before roasting the bird. As many as 20 different spices are blended to make curry powder, among them coriander, cumin, cinnamon, clove, turmeric, and black and red peppers. Madras curry powder is a hotter version; sweet (or “mild”) is more versatile. Curry powder adds flavor to recipes like curried spiced nuts. Penzey’s Sweet Curry powder is our top pick. In the 1980s, New Orleans chef Paul Prudhomme became famous for dipping fish fillets in melted butter, dredging them in spices, and cooking them in a searingly hot skillet, thereby igniting a national “blackening” obsession. Not long after the trend swept the nation, blackening spice mixes hit supermarkets, combining paprika, onion and garlic powders, coriander, and red and black peppers. Za’atar Kebab Sidekick Italian Seasoning The Boot in a Bottle Chinese Five-Spice Powder Balanced Blend In Arabic, za’atar can refer to a specific herb (Thymbra spicata); to several herbs that are related to thyme, savory, and oregano; or to a blend of spices that contain these herbs, along with sesame seeds, salt, and (tart, sour) sumac. Za’atar (the blend) is traditionally sprinkled on kebabs and vegetables. To get to know its earthy, pungent, floral flavors, dunk bread in olive oil and then dip it in za’atar. This blend tries to cram the flavors of Italy into a single jar. It’s chock-full of the Italian mainstays oregano, marjoram, rosemary, basil, sage, thyme, and savory. Toss potato wedges with oil, Parmesan, and Italian seasoning for a fast Mediterranean take on steak fries, or add a few pinches to a slow-simmered tomato sauce for an all-in-one flavor boost. This pungent, aromatic blend contains five ingredients, namely cinnamon, clove, fennel seeds, Sichuan peppercorn, and star anise. Chinese culture values the balance of flavors that these spices represent. In recent years, Americans have taken to the spice, too, using it for both sweet (five-spice panna cotta) and savory (grilled pork chops) dishes. Frontier Natural Products Co-op makes our favorite blend. Crab Boil Seafood Sachet Pickling Spice Cuke Cure Garam Masala Curry’s Kissing Cousin Chili Powder Cowboy Rations Boiling huge pots of seafood, potatoes, and other vegetables is a time-honored culinary tradition, be it crawfish boil in Louisiana, Frogmore stew in the Carolinas, or a clambake in New England. What to season the pot with? Crab boil. Popular brands include Zatarain’s, Rex’s, and Old Bay. Crab boil usually contains mustard seeds, celery seeds, coriander, peppercorns, bay, and allspice. Now that there’s a pickling revival sweeping America, reacquaint yourself with this blend. Pickling spice is a fruity, tart mixture of whole and coarsely crushed spices like bay leaves, cardamom, cinnamon, allspice, mustard seeds, cloves, coriander, and ginger. Not a pickle maker? Try grinding the blend in a spice grinder and using it to season poultry. Like curry powder, garam masala (literally “hot spice blend”) is an Indian seasoning made from warm spices like cloves, cinnamon, peppercorns, cardamom, and cumin. Add a little garam masala to couscous or use it to flavor Chicken Tagine, The test kitchen prefers McCormick Gourmet Collection Garam Masala for its “citrusy,” “smoky” flavors. Before chili powder became a commercial product in the early 20th century, cooks had to mix their own from ground dried chiles (usually about 80 percent of the blend), garlic powder, oregano, and cumin. The quality of storebought chili powder depends on both the chiles used and its freshness; if your jar is more than six months old, replace it. Ras el Hanout [RAHS L ha-newt] Moroccan Curry This North African seasoning translates as “head of the shop” because traditionally each blend was a unique combination of some 25 spices, seeds, dried flowers, berries, and nuts determined by the spice shop’s proprietor. Blends often include cumin, saffron, cinnamon, nutmeg, dried rose petals, galangal, and paprika. Use ras el hanout in tagines, rices, and hearty meat dishes, such as braised lamb shanks. world of flavors · iv © 2014 America’s Test Kitchen. All rights reserved. Photography: Daniel J. van Ackere All-Purpose Seasoned Salt Blend makes about ¼ cup Store the salt blend for up to six weeks. Suggested Uses: A rub for raw chicken or pork and sprinkled onto steamed vegetables or raw avocado, tomato, and cucumber. ¼ cup Diamond Crystal® Kosher Salt 1 tablespoon pepper 1 teaspoon granulated garlic 1 teaspoon onion flakes ¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes TO MAKE: Combine all ingredients in a small bowl. Caribbean Seasoned Salt Blend Suggested Uses: A rub for raw beef roasts and grilled steaks, chops, and fish. TO MAKE: Grind 5 bay leaves and 1 teaspoon whole cloves in spice grinder until finely ground. Add bay leaf mixture and ½ teaspoon ground nutmeg to salt blend. Greek Seasoned Salt Blend Suggested Uses: A rub for raw lamb, in vinaigrettes, and on eggs. TO MAKE: Add 1 teaspoon dried thyme, 1 teaspoon dried basil, and 1 teaspoon dried oregano to salt blend. Montreal Seasoned Salt Blend Suggested Uses: On beef (either as a rub or after cooking) and on salmon or other oily fish. TO MAKE: Add 2 teaspoons dried rosemary, 1 teaspoon ground coriander, and 1 teaspoon caraway seeds to salt blend. Global Flavor Insights from Diamond Crystal® Salt Smoky Seasoned Salt Blend To quickly add a Cuban flair to any recipe, use the basic Cuban spice palette consisting of cumin, oregano and bay leaves. on popcorn or corn on the cob, and mixed into beans. Visit diamondcrystalsalt.com to learn more about Diamond Crystal® culinary products. Suggested Uses: A rub for meats in any Latin preparation, Add 1 tablespoon hot smoked paprika, 1 teaspoon ground cumin, and 1 teaspoon chili powder to salt blend. TO MAKE: world of flavors · v Asian Condiments These sauces and pastes inject tremendous flavor into food with virtually no effort on the part of the cook. Soy Sauce Bean Juice Teriyaki Sauce American Favorite Sweet-and-Sour Sauce Egg Roll Dipper Hoisin Sauce Mu Shu Mate The Chinese invented it nearly 3,000 years ago, fermenting soybeans with wheat or barley and special molds and yeasts. But soy transcends Asian cuisine; we rely on its umami character to add savory, complex depth to dishes like beef stroganoff and French onion soup. Our preferred brand for cooking is Lee Kum Kee Tabletop Premium Soy Sauce. Popularized some 40 years ago in the United States by the Benihana chain, teriyaki sauce— which is from Japan—is made from soy sauce, sake or mirin (sweet Japanese wine), sugar, ginger, and garlic. The glaze gives food a glossy look and a sweet finish. Our favorite brand is Annie Chun’s All Natural Teriyaki Sauce. In China, this term encompasses a range of dipping sauces that are typically freshly prepared from vinegar and sugar. In the States, sweet-and-sour sauce has evolved (some would say devolved) into something thicker and sweeter. Western versions may include pineapple, ketchup, cornstarch, and corn syrup. Sweet-and-sour sauce is the classic dip for egg rolls. This thick, reddish-brown sauce— made from soybeans, sugar, garlic, and spices—is the classic sauce for Chinese mu shu dishes. Variation among brands is dramatic. The test kitchen picked “smoky,” “malty” Kikkoman Hoisin Sauce as our favorite, noting its balanced flavors. Hoisin can be used in dipping sauces, glazes, and marinades. Black Bean Sauce Fermented and Funky Wasabi Japanese Horseradish Plum Sauce Chinese Chutney Fish Sauce Piscatory Perfume This thick, robust sauce is made from fermented, salted black soybeans (either pureed or left whole) that are mixed with soy sauce, sugar, and sometimes MSG. Tasted by itself, black bean sauce is powerfully sharp, “nutty,” and “yeasty.” It adds instant depth to stir-fries, spareribs, noodles, and fish. You can buy versions with spice and garlic, too. The gnarled, brown wasabi root is a relative of horseradish, and at nice restaurants in Japan the fresh root is grated to order. In America, your sushi probably comes with the premade stuff from a tube or a powder (which often contains no real wasabi). Our tasters found that fresh wasabi or paste made from the real item is best (no surprise). The Chinese have cultivated plums since ancient times. To extend its life after the harvest, the fruit was preserved with salt, sugar, spices, garlic, ginger, and sweet potato, giving the sauce a sweet-and-sour quality. Nowadays, peaches and apricots are used, too. You may know plum sauce as duck sauce, as it’s often served with Peking duck. Don’t let the strong smell dissuade you: The pungent, “meaty,” almost “cheesy” flavor adds wonderful complexity to dishes like pad thai and Vietnam’s catfish in a clay pot. The sauce is made from fermented fish or, more often, anchovy extract, and the lighter the sauce the lighter the flavor. “Dark and pungent” Tiparos Fish Sauce is our favorite brand. Chili Sauce Asian Heat Oyster Sauce The Pearl of Sauces Miso Japanese Main Squeeze Kecap Manis Indonesian Soy Sauce Almost every Asian cuisine has its own version of chili sauce; the three you’re likely to encounter in the States are Sriracha, chili-garlic sauce, and Indonesia’s sambal oelek. They all contain chiles and salt; many feature vinegar, sugar, and garlic, too. Want to make Sriracha yourself? See page 7 for the recipe. This southern Chinese specialty is made from boiled oysters and adds salty tang to such dishes as kung pao chicken and sesame noodles. Buy oyster-flavored sauce that contains just oyster extractives and seasonings— sauces with extra ingredients have muddled flavor. Our favorite brand is Lee Kum Kee’s Premium Oyster Flavored Sauce. Chances are you’ve sipped the soup (dashi broth mixed with miso paste) as a preamble to a Japanese meal. The paste itself is made from fermented soybeans and grain—usually rice or barley— and Japanese cooks use it nearly every day. White, or shiro, miso is sweeter, with “floral,” “fruity” flavors, while red, or aka, miso is saltier and “earthier.” Kecap is the catchall term for sauces in Indonesia, and kecap manis is the sweetest. It’s made from soybeans, palm sugar, and seasonings. Salty-sweet kecap manis looks like tar but tastes like “caramel,” “burnt sugar,” and “coffee,” our tasters found. Marinate steaks in it or brush chicken wings with the thinned sauce toward the end of grilling. world of flavors · 1 Latin-American © 2014 America’s Test Kitchen. All rights reserved. Photography: Daniel J. van Ackere Grilled Corn with Latin-Spiced Butter serves 4 to 6 Use a disposable aluminum roasting pan that is at least 2¾ inches deep. 1 recipe flavored butter (recipes follow) 1 (13 by 9-inch) disposable aluminum roasting pan 8 ears corn, husks and silk removed 2 tablespoons vegetable oil Diamond Crystal® Kosher Salt and pepper 1. Place flavored butter in disposable pan. Brush corn evenly with oil and season with salt and pepper to taste. 2. Grill corn over hot fire, turning occasionally, until lightly charred on all sides, 5 to 9 minutes. Transfer corn to pan and cover tightly with aluminum foil. 3. Place pan on grill and cook, shaking pan frequently, until butter is sizzling, about 3 minutes. Remove pan from grill and carefully remove foil, allowing steam to escape away from you. Serve corn, spooning any butter in pan over individual ears. Latin-Spiced Butter Serve with orange wedges, if desired. 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened 2 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro 1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley 1 teaspoon minced canned chipotle chile in adobo sauce Global Flavor Insights from Diamond Crystal® Salt A little pico de gallo, or salsa fresca, goes a long way to add authenticity to most any Latin-inspired dish, with chopped tomato, white onion, and either jalapeños, serranos or habaneros chilies (or a combination of the three). For a little extra zing, try adding a touch of lime juice or apple cider vinegar. To mellow it out, go with fresh coriander leaves, cucumber, radish or diced mango. Visit diamondcrystalsalt.com to learn more about Diamond Crystal® culinary products. ½ teaspoon finely grated orange zest 1 teaspoon Diamond Crystal® Kosher Salt TO MAKE: Combine all ingredients in a small bowl. world of flavors · 2 peruvian serves 4 This recipe calls for a vertical poultry roaster. If you don’t have one, substitute a 12-ounce can of beer. Open the beer and pour out (or drink) about half of the liquid. Spray the can lightly with vegetable oil spray and proceed with the recipe. Serve with Spicy Mayonnaise (recipe follows). ¼ cup fresh mint leaves 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons Diamond Crystal® Kosher Salt 6 garlic cloves, chopped coarse 1 tablespoon pepper 1 tablespoon ground cumin 1 tablespoon sugar 2 teaspoons smoked paprika 2 teaspoons dried oregano 2 teaspoons finely grated lime zest plus ¼ cup juice (2 limes) 1 teaspoon minced habanero chile 1 (3½- to 4-pound) whole chicken, giblets discarded 1. Process mint, oil, salt, garlic, pepper, cumin, sugar paprika, oregano, lime zest and juice, and habanero in blender until smooth paste forms, 10 to 20 seconds. Using your fingers, carefully loosen skin covering breast and thighs. Place half of paste under skin, directly on meat in center of each side of breast and on thighs. Gently press on skin to distribute paste evenly over meat. Spread remaining paste over entire exterior surface of chicken. Tuck wings behind back. Place chicken in 1-gallon zipper-lock bag and refrigerate at least 6 hours or up to 24 hours. 2. Adjust oven rack to lowest position and heat oven to 325 degrees. Place vertical roaster on rimmed baking sheet. Slide chicken onto vertical roaster so chicken stands upright and breast is perpendicular to bottom of sheet. Roast chicken until skin just begins to turn golden and breast registers 140 degrees, 45 to 55 minutes. Carefully remove sheet with chicken from oven and increase oven temperature to 500 degrees. 3. Once oven is heated to 500 degrees, return sheet to oven and pour 1 cup water in bottom of sheet. Continue to roast until skin is evenly browned and crispy, breast registers 160 degrees, and thighs register 175 degrees, about 20 minutes, rotating sheet halfway through cooking (replenish water as necessary to keep sheet from smoking). (If the top of the chicken is darkening too quickly, place a 7-inch-square piece of foil over the neck and wingtips and continue to roast.) 4. Carefully remove chicken from oven and let rest on vertical roaster for 20 minutes. Using 2 large wads of paper towels, carefully lift chicken off vertical roaster and onto carving board. Carve chicken and serve. Spicy Mayonnaise MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP 1 large egg (see note) 2 tablespoons water 1 tablespoon minced onion 1 tablespoon juice from 1 lime 1 tablespoon minced fresh cilantro 1 tablespoon canned pickled jalapeño pepper, minced 1 medium garlic clove, minced or pressed through garlic press (about 1 teaspoon) 1 teaspoon yellow mustard ½ teaspoon Diamond Crystal® Kosher Salt 1 cup vegetable oil TO MAKE: Process all ingredients except oil in food proces- sor until finely chopped, about 5 seconds. With machine running, slowly drizzle in oil in steady stream until mayonnaise-like consistency is reached, scraping down bowl as necessary. © 2014 America’s Test Kitchen. All rights reserved. Photography: Daniel J. van Ackere Peruvian Roast Chicken Puerto rican world of flavors · 3 © 2014 America’s Test Kitchen. All rights reserved. Photography: Daniel J. van Ackere Pork Pernil serves 8 to 10 Depending on their size, you may need two bunches of cilantro. Crimp the foil tightly over the edges of the roasting pan in step 2 to minimize evaporation. Make sure to spray the V-rack in step 3. 1½ cups chopped fresh cilantro leaves and stems 1 onion, chopped coarse ¼ cup Diamond Crystal® Kosher Salt ¼ cup olive oil 10 garlic cloves, peeled 2 tablespoons pepper 1 tablespoon dried oregano 1 tablespoon ground cumin 1 (7-pound) bone-in pork picnic shoulder 1 tablespoon grated lime zest plus ⅓ cup juice (3 limes) 1. Pulse 1 cup cilantro, onion, salt, oil, garlic, pepper, oregano, and cumin in food processor until finely ground, about 15 pulses, scraping down sides of bowl as needed. Pat pork dry with paper towels and rub cilantro mixture all over. Wrap pork in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 12 hours or up to 24 hours. 2. Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat oven to 450 degrees. Pour 8 cups water in large roasting pan. Unwrap pork and place skin side down in pan. Cover pan tightly with aluminum foil and roast for 90 minutes. Remove foil, reduce oven temperature to 375 degrees, and continue to roast for 2½ hours. 3. Remove pan from oven. Spray V-rack with vegetable oil spray. Gently slide metal spatula under pork to release skin from pan. Using folded dish towels, grasp ends of pork and transfer to V-rack, skin side up. Wipe skin dry with paper towels. Place V-rack with pork in roasting pan. If pan looks dry, add 1 cup water. Return to oven and roast until pork registers 195 degrees, about 1 hour. (Add Global Flavor Insights from Diamond Crystal® Salt If you’re looking for a flagship spice for Latin and Asian inspired flavors, reach for some cilantro to add a suitable flair to both cuisines. Visit diamondcrystalsalt.com to learn more about Diamond Crystal® culinary products. water as needed to keep bottom of pan from drying out.) 4. Line rimmed baking sheet with foil. Remove pan from oven. Transfer V-rack and pork to prepared sheet and return to oven. Immediately increase oven temperature to 500 degrees. Cook until pork skin is well browned and crispy (when tapped lightly with tongs, skin will sound hollow), 15 to 30 minutes, rotating sheet halfway through cooking. Transfer pork to carving board and let rest for 30 minutes. 5. Meanwhile, pour juices from pan into fat separator. Let liquid settle for 5 minutes, then pour off 1 cup defatted juices into large bowl. (If juices measure less than 1 cup, make up difference with water.) Whisk remaining ½ cup cilantro and lime zest and juice into bowl. 6. Remove crispy skin from pork in 1 large piece. Coarsely chop skin into bite-size pieces and set aside. Trim and discard excess fat from pork. Remove pork from bone and chop coarse. Transfer pork to bowl with cilantro-lime sauce and toss to combine. Serve pork, with crispy skin on side. cuban world of flavors · 4 Serves 6 to 10 Serve this recipe as a side dish or as a main course with a simple green salad. Diamond Crystal® Kosher Salt 1 cup dried black beans, rinsed and picked over 2 cups chicken broth 2 large green bell peppers, halved, stemmed, and seeded 1 large onion, halved crosswise and peeled, root end left intact 1 head garlic (5 cloves minced, rest of head halved crosswise with skin left intact) 2 bay leaves 1½ cups long grain white rice 2 tablespoons olive oil 6 ounces lean salt pork, cut into ¼-inch pieces 4 teaspoons ground cumin 1 tablespoon minced fresh oregano leaves 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar 2 scallions, sliced thin Lime wedges 1. Dissolve 1½ tablespoons salt in 2 quarts cold water in large bowl or container. Add beans and soak at room temperature for at least 8 hours or up to 24 hours. Drain and rinse well. 2. In large Dutch oven with tight-fitting lid, stir broth, 1 bell pepper half, 1 onion half (with root end), halved garlic head, bay leaves, 1 teaspoon salt, 2 cups water, and quick tip from the TEST KITCHEN Salty Soak for Beans Brining isn’t just for meat. When you soak dried beans in salted water, they cook up with softer skins. Brining Formula For 1 pound of dried beans, dissolve 3 tablespoons of table salt in 4 quarts of cold water. Soak the beans at room temperature for 8 to 24 hours. Drain and rinse the beans well before using. drained beans together. Bring to simmer over mediumhigh heat, cover, and reduce heat to low. Cook until beans are just soft, 30 to 35 minutes. Using tongs, discard bell pepper half, onion half, garlic head, and bay leaves. Drain beans in colander set over large bowl, reserving 2½ cups bean cooking liquid. (If you don’t have enough bean cooking liquid, add water to equal 2½ cups.) 3. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 350 degrees. Place rice in large fine-mesh strainer and rinse under cold running water until water runs clear, about 1½ minutes. Shake strainer vigorously to remove all excess water; set aside rice. Cut remaining 3 bell pepper halves and remaining 1 onion half into 2-inch pieces and process in food processor until chopped into rough ¼-inch pieces, about 8 pulses, scraping down sides of bowl as needed; set aside vegetables. 4. In now-empty Dutch oven, heat 1 tablespoon oil and salt pork over medium-low heat; cook, stirring frequently, until salt pork is lightly browned and rendered, 15 to 20 minutes. Add remaining 1 tablespoon oil, cumin, oregano, and chopped bell pepper–onion mixture. Increase heat to medium and continue to cook, stirring frequently, until vegetables are softened and beginning to brown, 10 to 15 minutes longer. Add minced garlic and cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add rice and stir to coat, about 30 seconds. 5. Stir in vinegar, beans and reserved bean cooking liquid, and ½ teaspoon salt. Increase heat to medium-high and bring to simmer. Cover and transfer to oven. Bake until liquid is absorbed and rice is tender, about 30 minutes. Fluff with fork and let rest, uncovered, for 5 minutes. Serve, passing scallions and lime wedges separately. © 2014 America’s Test Kitchen. All rights reserved. Photography: Daniel J. van Ackere Cuban-Style Black Beans and Rice world of flavors · 5 greek serves 4 to 6 Serve with rice pilaf or make sandwiches with warm pita bread, sliced red onion, and chopped fresh mint. You will need eight 12-inch metal skewers for this recipe. Yogurt-Garlic Sauce 1 cup plain whole-milk yogurt 2 tablespoons lemon juice 2 tablespoons tahini 1 garlic clove, minced 1 teaspoon Diamond Crystal® Kosher Salt Kofte ½ cup pine nuts 4 garlic cloves, peeled 1½ teaspoons hot smoked paprika 2 teaspoon Diamond Crystal® Kosher Salt 1 teaspoon ground cumin ½ teaspoon pepper ¼ teaspoon ground coriander ¼ teaspoon ground cloves ⅛ teaspoon ground nutmeg ⅛ teaspoon ground cinnamon 1½ pounds ground lamb ½ cup grated onion, drained ⅓ cup minced fresh parsley ⅓ cup minced fresh mint 1½ teaspoons unflavored gelatin 1 large disposable aluminum roasting pan (if using charcoal) Global Flavor Insights from Diamond Crystal® Salt To make “ajvar,” a popular Middle Eastern spread for grilled meats, combine roasted bell peppers, eggplant and tomatoes into a blended mixture and season to your personalized taste with garlic, black pepper and lemon. Visit diamondcrystalsalt.com to learn more about Diamond Crystal® culinary products. 1. For the Yogurt-Garlic Sauce: Whisk all ingredients together in bowl. Set aside. 2. For the Kofte: Process pine nuts, garlic, paprika, salt, cumin, pepper, coriander, cloves, nutmeg, and cinnamon in food processor until coarse paste forms, 30 to 45 seconds. Transfer mixture to large bowl. Add lamb, onion, parsley, mint, and gelatin; knead with your hands until thoroughly combined and mixture feels slightly sticky, about 2 minutes. Divide mixture into 8 equal portions. Shape each portion into 5-inch-long cylinder about 1 inch in diameter. Using 8 (12-inch) metal skewers, thread 1 cylinder onto each skewer, pressing gently to adhere. Transfer skewers to lightly greased baking sheet, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 24 hours. 3a. For a charcoal grill: Using skewer, poke 12 holes in bottom of disposable pan. Open bottom vent completely and place pan in center of grill. Light large chimney starter filled two-thirds with charcoal briquettes (4 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour into pan. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes. 3b. For a gas grill: Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Leave all burners on high. 4. Clean and oil cooking grate. Place skewers on grill (directly over coals if using charcoal) at 45-degree angle to grate. Cook (covered if using gas) until browned and meat easily releases from grill, 4 to 7 minutes. Flip skewers and continue to cook until browned on second side and meat registers 160 degrees, about 6 minutes longer. Transfer skewers to platter and serve, passing yogurt-garlic sauce separately. © 2014 America’s Test Kitchen. All rights reserved. Photography: Daniel J. van Ackere Grilled Lamb Kofte world of flavors · 6 korean serves 4 Kimchi varies in heat intensity, flavor, and pungency. If possible, avoid products with a strong fish or shrimp flavor, which can overpower the beef. If the kimchi is made from green cabbage rather than napa cabbage, extend the cooking time by 1 to 2 minutes. Serve with rice. 4 tablespoons soy sauce 4 teaspoons sugar 12 ounces flank steak, cut into 2-inch-wide strips with grain, then sliced against grain into ⅛-inch-thick slices ½ cup chicken broth 1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil 1 teaspoon cornstarch 3 garlic cloves, minced 1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger 2 tablespoons vegetable oil Kimchi MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP 1 large head napa cabbage (2½ pounds), cored and cut into 2‑inch pieces 1 cup kimchi, chopped into 1-inch pieces 4 ounces (2 cups) mung bean sprouts 5teaspoons Diamond Crystal® Kosher Salt 5 scallions, cut into 1 ½-inch pieces, white and light green pieces quartered lengthwise 20 garlic cloves, peeled Combine 2 tablespoons soy sauce and 1 teaspoon sugar in medium bowl. Add beef, toss to coat, and let sit for at least 10 minutes or up to 1 hour, stirring once. Meanwhile, whisk chicken broth, sesame oil, cornstarch, remaining 2 tablespoons soy sauce, and remaining 1 tablespoon sugar in medium bowl. Combine garlic, ginger, and 1 teaspoon vegetable oil in small bowl. 2. Drain beef and discard liquid. Heat 1 teaspoon vegetable oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over high heat until just smoking. Add half of beef to skillet in single layer, breaking up any clumps. Cook, without stirring, for 1 minute, then stir and continue to cook until beef is browned, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer beef to clean bowl. Repeat with 1 teaspoon vegetable oil and remaining beef. Rinse skillet clean and dry with paper towels. 3. Add remaining 1 tablespoon oil to clean, dry skillet and heat until just smoking. Add kimchi and cook, stirring frequently, until aromatic, 1 to 2 minutes. Add bean sprouts and stir to combine. Push vegetables to sides of skillet. Add garlic-ginger mixture to center and cook, mashing mixture into skillet, until fragrant, 15 to 20 seconds. Stir mixture into vegetables. Return beef, any accumulated juices, and scallions to skillet and stir to combine. Whisk sauce to recombine, then add to skillet; cook, stirring constantly, until sauce is thickened and evenly distributed, about 30 seconds. Transfer to platter and serve. 1. ½ cup Korean chili powder ⅓ cup sugar ¼ cup fish sauce ¼ cup soy sauce 1 (1½‑inch) piece fresh ginger, peeled and sliced thin 1 tablespoon salted shrimp 16 scallions, cut into 2‑inch pieces 1 large leek, white and light green parts only, cut into 2 by ¼‑inch strips and washed thoroughly 1 carrot, peeled and cut into 2‑inch-long matchsticks 1. Combine cabbage and salt in large bowl. Let sit at room temperature for 1 hour, or cover and refrigerate for up to 24 hours. Transfer cabbage to colander, squeeze to drain excess liquid, and transfer to clean large bowl. 2. Process garlic, chili powder, sugar, fish sauce, soy sauce, ginger, and shrimp in food processor until no large pieces of garlic or ginger remain, about 20 seconds. Add chili mixture, scallions, leek, and carrot to cabbage and toss to combine. 3. Transfer to 2 sterilized 1-quart glass jars with tightfitting lids, cover, and refrigerate. Let ferment until kimchi has reached desired level of fermentation, at least 4 hours or up to 2 weeks. Kimchi can be refrigerated for up to 2 weeks longer. © 2014 America’s Test Kitchen. All rights reserved. Photography: Daniel J. van Ackere Korean Stir-Fried Beef with Kimchi world of flavors · 7 vietnamese serves 4 To make this Vietnamese-style sandwich, we quickly pickle carrots and cucumber in lime juice and fish sauce and season a rotisserie chicken with the same flavors. Shred the carrots on the large holes of a box grater. Sriracha mayonnaise gives the sandwich a spicy kick. 2 carrots, peeled and shredded ½ cucumber, peeled, halved lengthwise, seeded, and sliced thin 1 teaspoon grated lime zest plus 5 tablespoons juice (3 limes) ¼ cup fish sauce 3 tablespoons packed dark brown sugar 1 (2½-pound) rotisserie chicken, skin and bones discarded, meat shredded into bite-size pieces (3 cups) ½ cup mayonnaise 5 teaspoons Sriracha sauce 4 (8-inch) sub rolls, split lengthwise and toasted ½ cup fresh cilantro leaves Combine carrots, cucumber, 2 tablespoons lime juice, and 1 tablespoon fish sauce in bowl and let sit for 15 minutes. Combine sugar, remaining 3 tablespoons lime juice, and remaining 3 tablespoons fish sauce in large bowl and stir until sugar is dissolved. Add chicken and toss to coat. Whisk mayonnaise, Sriracha, and lime zest together in separate bowl. 2. Spread mayonnaise mixture on roll bottoms. Divide chicken mixture among rolls and top with pickled vegetables (leaving liquid in bowl), cilantro, and roll tops. Serve. Sriracha Makes about 2 cups Make today; enjoy tomorrow 1. Global Flavor Insights from Diamond Crystal® Salt You don’t typically think of bread when serving Vietnamese cuisine, but the “banh mi” is a popular, single serve baguette in Vietnam with origins in the French colonial period. More airy than Western style baguettes and sporting a thinner crust, they’re excellent for serving up Vietnamese style sandwiches and Po-boys. Visit diamondcrystalsalt.com to learn more about Diamond Crystal® culinary products. 1 ½ pounds red jalapeño chiles, stemmed, seeds reserved 12 garlic cloves, peeled 1 cup water ¾ cup distilled white vinegar 1 cup sugar 6tablespoons Diamond Crystal® Kosher Salt 1. Process jalapeños; up to 1 tablespoon reserved jalapeño seeds, if desired; garlic; water; and vinegar in blender until smooth, about 2 minutes. Transfer mixture to large saucepan and whisk in sugar and salt. 2. Bring to boil over high heat; reduce heat to mediumlow and simmer, stirring occasionally and skimming any surface foam, until mixture is thickened and reduced to about 2 cups, about 25 minutes. Remove saucepan from heat and let cool for 5 minutes. 3. Return mixture to blender and process on low speed until smooth, about 20 seconds. Transfer to large liquid measuring cup and let cool completely. Pour cooled mixture into jar or plastic squeeze bottle with tight-fitting lid and refrigerate for at least 1 day before using. Sriracha can be refrigerated for up to 3 weeks. © 2014 America’s Test Kitchen. All rights reserved. Photography: Daniel J. van Ackere Chicken Banh Mi world of flavors · 8 More Global Flavor Insights from Diamond Crystal® Salt • Many trend experts are predicting Turkish cuisine to be a rising star in fast casual. The dishes offer familiar flavor elements and are easily prepared, so consider adding a simple, spicy lamb kebab with grilled tomatoes and a side of pita to your menu. Pair it with Turkish coffee and Acıbadem (almond cookies) for a Middle-Eastern themed offering. • If you want to easily add an Indian flair to beef and chicken, try seasoning with traditional Indian spices such as paprika, coriander, cumin, curry and cardamom. • M ake your drink menu more global by offering Caipirinha. Brazil’s refreshing national cocktail is made with the distilled spirit cachaça (sugar cane hard liquor), sugar and lime and is one of the fastest trending menu items in many Brazilian restaurants. • For authentic Korean-style marinades for beef and chicken, try combing soy sauce, pear juice, chili, sugar, garlic and onions. • F or an authentic Vietnamese menu item, consider serving up a clay pot dish with caramelized shrimp or fish, along with the sweet and spicy fish dipping sauce “nuoc cham,” which is typical of traditional Vietnamese home dining. • For the latest in multi-cultural fusion, consider adding a Peruvian or Filipino item to your menu, which typically include Malaysian, Spanish, Chinese and American elements. In addition to delivering a borderless taste explosion, the familiar ingredients are suitable for any customer’s comfort level. • Ceviche, consisting of fish and shellfish marinated in citrus juices, is a popular, traditional Peruvian dish that can easily be added to any menu. • For a simple, traditional Bedouin-style meal, offer large, family-size platters of grilled meat or chicken served with flatbread on a shared plate. Make sure to season liberally with sumac, za’atar and sesame seeds. Instead of the lemony-flavored sumac, coriander and cumin also make an appropriate seasoning substitute. Smoky Season Salt Blend, page IV • “Char Siu” is a popular f lavoring and preparation style of pork that spans many Asian countries, including China, Hong Kong, Malaysia, Singapore and Thailand. To prepare, season pork strips with honey, five-spice powder, dark soy sauce and hoisin sauce, skewer the meat and roast it in a covered oven or over an open fire. • For an on-trend Middle-Eastern dessert offering, try infusing macaroons or marshmallows with orange blossom water and rose water. The f loral essences complement the sweetness and consistency of the dessert textures.