Document 6485938

Got oil-free
sunscreen? Good!
It will help keep
pores clear. A fave:
Chanel UV Essentiel
Multi-Protection
Daily UV Care
SPF 50, $52.
clear skin
every day!
Who doesn’t love summer? Your skin! The season can bring on some
serious pimple situations. Find out how to keep those suckers away.
By Caroline Schaefer Photographs by Greg Delves
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Acne treatments
can penetrate deep
into damp skin—
and sting as a result.
Hold off until skin is
thoroughly dry.
when you’re stressed
You’re freaking out, and wham! A zit appears.
Coincidence? Hardly! As tension builds, so
do levels of cortisol, triggering oil production
and inflammation, creating an environment
that spurs the growth of P. acnes, the
bacterium responsible for pimples, explains
Amy Wechsler, M.D., a dermatologist in New
York City. Here’s how to get back in the clear.
Do less. Panicking about breakouts makes you overtreat
your skin, which can cause more problems, Dr. Wechsler says.
It’s hard to hold back, but keep things simple: Wash twice
daily with a mild foaming cleanser that includes salicylic acid.
This classic zit buster (found in Bioré Blemish Fighting Ice
Cleanser, $7) is especially good at cutting through greasy
gook that collects in pores. Follow with a spot treatment or
mask containing the bacteria-killing ingredient benzoyl peroxide or sulfur, which works similarly and is gentler for sensitive skin. “The salicylic acid clears a path, so the product that
comes next can penetrate better,” Dr. Wechsler says.
Flex your willpower! Overdoing it on alcohol
and having a smoke are not doing your skin any favors. In fact,
a study published in the International Journal of Dermatology
confirms that these less than stellar habits exacerbate acne
conditions. Although 82 percent of study subjects rated stress
as a top factor, a hefty 50 percent in the study also listed booze
and smoking as a main pimple precursor.
See a skin doc.
Logically, chronic stress leads to
chronic acne. If you can’t break the cycle, a dermatologist
can. A typical game plan includes an Rx retinoid gel or cream
(such as Differin), which exfoliates and clears pores faster
than over-the-counter options. Antibiotics are another possibility. In pill or topical form, they reduce troublesome
P. acnes bacteria; your M.D. will typically prescribe one for
one to three months to “reset” skin. Afterward, your derm
may suggest that you use prescription retinoids solely or that
over-the-counter products are all you need. For chronic acne,
your doctor might prescribe isotretinoin, a heavy-duty retinoid pill, for up to six months. It shrinks oil glands, curing
about 70 percent of patients.
when you work out a lot
Exercise-induced acne is its own special breed.
It flares on the forehead, jawline, neck, chest
and back, all areas where sweat lingers. “These
pimples are itchy and a brighter red than
normal zits,” explains Cynthia Bailey, M.D., a
dermatologist in Sebastopol, California. Sadly,
most acne products don’t help. Yeast, a normal
skin microorganism that proliferates in damp
conditions, is the culprit, not bacteria. The fixes:
First, rule out heat rash. Excessive
perspiration can clog sweat glands, causing red bumps, often
between the breasts and middle to lower back. Heat rash typically fades after you stop sweating. Yeast zits can last weeks.
Don’t be cheap.
Spend the extra few bucks on
sweat-wicking workout clothes that dry quickly. “Wet fabrics
can trap moisture against skin and encourage yeast growth
in pores,” Dr. Bailey says. You’ll feel cooler, too.
Clean up at the gym.
For anyone prone to
workout-linked breakouts, letting sweat sit on skin for
even 20 minutes can give rise (literally!) to the condition,
Dr. Bailey says. An immediate shower is your best defense.
Skip the gym’s plain liquid soap and instead tote your own
salicylic acid–laced wash (such as Murad Acne Body Wash,
$40); it helps clear yeast from pores. If you don’t like the
shower at your local locker room, hit your own as soon as
possible to keep yeast at bay.
Use special suds at home.
You’ll need a
medicated soap that contains 2 percent pyrithione zinc to zap
the yeast, Dr. Bailey says. Find it in special bar soaps sold at
pharmacies or in DermaDoctor Born to Be Mild Medicated
Face & Body Cleanser, $24. For the best results, allow the
lather to sit on affected skin for several minutes before rinsing, Dr. Bailey recommends. Once skin is thoroughly dry,
swipe breakouts with a salicylic acid wipe, like Philosophy
Clear Days Ahead pads, $39; the pads also have alpha hydroxy
acids to fade discoloration from past acne scars.
147
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when you’re at the beach
Hot weather, humidity and sweat are the
holy trinity of pore cloggers—and you’ll run
into them anywhere you roam this summer.
If you’ve linked rogue breakouts with days
spent at the beach, sunscreen may be
pushing your skin over the edge. Here’s the
lowdown on what works.
Protect with less.
When you shop for a sunscreen, buy one labeled noncomedogenic. “It’s the simplest way
to avoid the fragrances and thick consistencies that irritate
and clog pores,” says Meghan O’Brien, M.D., a dermatologist
in NYC. Strengthwise, aim for at least SPF 30.
Choose mineral sunscreens. If you
have sensitive skin, you need to go a step further by choosing
mineral sunscreens that list only zinc oxide or titanium dioxide
(or both) as an active ingredient. They’re less likely to cause
irritation than chemical sunscreens (like oxybenzone) are. The
trade-off: The minerals can look white and masklike. If it’s
labeled micronized, that’s a clue the formula will go on sheer.
Test it on the back of your hand before committing to a faceful.
Get some bubbly.
Wash up as soon as possible
après-beach. (If there’s a public shower, use it.) Because water
alone won’t remove sunscreen, you’ll want to cart around an
acne-fighting wash such as St. Ives Naturally Clear Green Tea
Body Wash, $6, in your beach bag. If lathering up in public
isn’t your thing, premoistened skin-cleaning wipes are a good
second choice, says Jessica Wu, M.D., a dermatologist in Los
Angeles. But they don’t clean as deeply as real washing does,
so you should still shower when you get home.
Spread on resveratrol. Early research
suggests that this common antiaging ingredient may do
more than previously thought. Acne subjects who applied
a topical gel loaded with resveratrol (the antioxidant found
in red grapes) to the right side of their face daily for two
months saw pimple numbers plummet, compared with the
placebo-dosed left side, according to a study conducted at
the University of Naples Federico II.
when you have PMS
Got a pattern of preperiod breakouts? Your
acne is likely fueled by hormonal shifts that
occur in the days after ovulation, when oil
levels surge, leaving pores vulnerable to clogs.
Besides basic steps (cleanse morning and
night; use spot treatments), these will help
make your midcycle ride less bumpy.
Book a facial.
If you time it right, a visit to the
facialist might help you love your skin all month long. A
report published in the International Journal of Cosmetic
Science found that when subjects with acne had midcycle comedone extractions, they had fewer premenstrual
pimples. The theory: Extractions that precede monthly oil
spikes can stave off clogging later in the cycle.
But avoid DIY squeezing.
Yes, it’s incredibly tempting. Thing is, in the hands of a rookie (i.e., you),
overzealous squeezing can force bacteria through pore walls
into surrounding skin, causing nasty inflammation that
makes breakouts last even longer. Better to treat skin with
good old benzoyl peroxide. Why it’s a must: As BP kills bacteria, it also reduces inflammation in skin. Nix both issues
and bumps will fade quickly. “Benzoyl peroxide is the only
ingredient that has ever been shown to make a pimple go
away faster after it’s applied,” explains Jeffrey S. Dover, M.D.,
associate clinical professor of dermatology at the Yale School
of Medicine. Find it in RX Skin Therapy Clarifying Facial
Masque, $40, a double-duty skin helper. You can apply it all
over the face as a mask or use it as a spot treatment only.
Try a pill.
If other options haven’t worked, your dermatologist may suggest medication. Oral contraceptives are
one possibility. Some help minimize monthly breakouts by
evening out hormonal flip-flops. Less well-known is a prescription pill called spironolactone, a diuretic drug used off-label to
treat acne; it blocks androgens, the hormones responsible for
increased oil production. It’s sometimes paired with the Pill or
used solo. (Your doc will decide.) PMS flares respond well to
this drug, says Whitney Bowe, M.D., clinical instructor at the
Mount Sinai School of Medicine. Get ready to glow!
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