BBQ Heats Up - Content for Biz Inc.

SMOKED
A Special Editorial Supplement May 2008
BBQ Heats Up
“Low and slow” describes the cooking method of “real” barbecue.
But “hot and fast” is a far better description of barbecue’s growing popularity.
Authentic pit-smoked barbecue meats cook for hours over charcoal and
wood at a temperature near 212 degrees F. “It’s the authentic American comfort
food,” says Amy Mills Tunnicliffe, co-author of “Peace, Love and Barbecue.”
“You know that someone has taken time with it. It’s home-cooking.
All those things make it very appealing.” Consumers crave barbecue and the
comforting sides that go with it. Restaurants are satisfying those cravings with an
increasing number of barbecue items on the menu. According to Technomic’s 2007
Menu Monitor, 58 percent of all chain menus carry at least one barbecue item,
up 8 percent from 2006, and barbecue appetizers are growing at a
13 percent rate. Barbecue restaurants are also on the rise.
“I don’t think you can look at barbecue as a fad,” says John Stage,
owner of New York-based Dinosaur Bar-B-Que.
“It’s definitely ingrained in Americana now.”
By Joanne Costin
SERVING UP MEMORIES SINCE 1926.
™
Siloam Springs, AR 72761 � 1-800-357-ALLEN
www.allens.com
WG2-08-017R2_G4.indd 1
3/31/08 3:36:40 PM
Cover Photo: 17th Street Bar & Grill Ribs
SMOKED
BBQ Heats Up
The Appeal
Traditional pit-smoked barbecue has Southern roots.
Major barbecue regions—Memphis, Tenn.; Texas; Kansas
City, Mo.; St. Louis and the Carolinas have their own styles
that are reflected in the flavor of the smoke; the types and
cuts of meats; and the rubs, mops, and sauces.
In Texas, barbecue means beef. In North Carolina, it’s
pork. And in Kansas City, it’s pork with a sweet tomatobased sauce. Diversity thrives, not only between regions,
but among operators. “That’s the beauty of it,” says Curt
Gibson, director of operations for Tennessee-based Calhoun’s. “Everybody has a unique style.”
And whether diners want barbecue that reminds them
of home or of their fi rst taste of “authentic” barbecue, restaurateurs are doing their best to provide it. From 1998 to
2008, the number of barbecue restaurants listed by Zagat
Survey grew 81 percent in New York and 268 percent in Los
Angeles. Television food shows, magazines, celebrity chefs,
barbecue fests and competitions have fueled the growth.
Fast-growing barbecue chains have also made barbecue
more accessible. Famous Dave’s now operates 157 units in
Major BBQ Styles by Region
35 states. Dickey’s Barbecue Pit, headquartered in Dallas,
has doubled in size in eight years. Pappas Bar-B-Q, a regional chain based in Houston, grew from six restaurants
in 2005 to 20 in 2008. Rib Crib’s eight locations have grown
to 42. And St. Louis-based Bandana’s expects to add 12 to
14 locations in 2008.
Cheryl Carter, owner of Johnny Rebs’, a Southern roadhouse
with four locations in Southern California, believes authentic cooking is one reason for the recent success of barbecue
chains. “They are taking the time to do it right,” says Carter.
Sides that Satisfy
“Classic sides are another reason,” says Carter. At Johnny Rebs’, the classics are fried green tomatoes, grits, biscuits and peach cobbler. Other operations boast their own
specialties, such as Calhoun’s Tennessee corn pudding,
Bandana’s potato salad, and 17th Street Bar & Grill’s BBQ
baked beans. “Any barbecue menu is going to base itself
around ribs and brisket, pulled pork and barbecue chicken,“
says Stage. “Everything else is what defi nes you.”
The clientele for barbecue is diverse. “Barbecue knows
no social or economic boundaries,” adds Stage.
Region
Favorite Meats
Sauces and Rubs
Famous BBQ Joints
North Carolina
East: Whole hog
West: Pork shoulders
East: Thin, vinegar-based sauce & pepper
West: Like the East, only with a little ketchup
Wilber’s
Lexington Barbecue
South Carolina
Pork ribs and whole shoulders,
pulled pork
East: Spicy vinegar sauce Midlands: Mustard-based
sauce Northwest: Tomato-based sauce
Sweatman’s
Maurice’s BBQ/Piggie Park
Memphis
Pulled pork, baby back ribs
Dry rub, with a tomato-based sauce on the side
Cozy Corner
Neely’s Interstate Bar-B-Que
St. Louis
Pork spare ribs, pork steak
Thick, tomato-based sauce with a little spice, on the side;
sometimes thinned with vinegar; meat often dry-rubbed
Smoki O’s
Kansas City
Pork ribs, beef brisket, burnt ends,
pork, chicken, turkey
Thick, sweet, tomato-based sauce; meat served wet
Arthur Bryant’s
Gates
Texas
Beef brisket, hot links, beef ribs
Typically unsauced, but if served, a spicy tomato-based
BBQ sauce or hot sauce
Kreuz Market
Taylor Café
May 2008
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Advertisement
TREND WATCH:
Authentic Regional BBQ Flavor
R
egional barbecue is on the rise, and New York
City showcases the trend well. At Blue Smoke
in Manhattan, restaurateur Danny Meyer features several barbecue styles including St. Louis, Memphis, North Carolina, Kansas City and Texas, while at Hill
Country, the focus is exclusively on authentic Texas-style
barbecue.
Cattlemen’s® helps operators give their patrons the authentic regional BBQ flavor they crave. “Developed based
on barbecue regions, Cattlemen’s BBQ sauces add authentic regional flavor to menus,” says Kelly Corcoran,
corporate chef for Cattlemen’s.
“For Carolina-style barbecue, pair Cattlemen’s GOLD®
with smoked pork,” says Corcoran. “A unique smokysweet combination of mustard, molasses and cayenne
pepper make it extremely versatile. You can extend authentic Carolina flavor across the menu by using GOLD
as a marinade or as an ingredient in potato salads, coleslaws and salad dressings.”
In Anniston, Ala., patrons at Dad’s BBQ enjoy Cattlemen’s GOLD on smoked chicken sandwiches and as a
dipping sauce for chicken fingers. Chopped pork sandwiches and ribs are served with warmed Cattlemen’s
Original, a St. Louis-style BBQ sauce.
Cattlemen’s eight sauces provide endless options for
authentic regional barbecue. “You can do so many things
with their products,” says Randy Ricketts, owner of Dad’s
BBQ. “You can take what they have and create hundreds
of different sauces.”
In the Midwest, Pizza Ranch created a trio of smokehouse chicken pizzas to boost sales and add excitement
to the buffet. “Memphis Spice” features Cattlemen’s Hot
& Spicy sauce, smokehouse chicken, bacon and mozzarella, while the “Kansas City Sweet” and the “St. Louis
Sassy” pizzas use Cattlemen’s Sweet.
“We like to bring in new pizzas and new flavors,” says
Jon Moss, brand director for the 140-unit Pizza Ranch
chain. “These items give customers a way to sample new
flavors without buying a whole pizza.”
However it’s used, you can count on consistency with
Cattlemen’s. Says Moss, “You know what you are going
to get every time—just great barbecue flavors.”
Learn how Cattlemen’s can help you add regional
barbecue flavors to your menu by visiting
www.frenchsfoodservice.com or call 800-442-4733.
S-4
May 2008
“It’s something everyone can enjoy.” However, some chains
have expanded their menus to include more salads, steaks,
seafood and grilled items to widen the appeal.
Even Mike Mills, known simply as “The Legend”, believes in offering alternatives for vegetarians. Mills is a
three-time Grand World Champion at Memphis in May,
the World Championship Barbecue Cooking Contest. He
owns four 17th Street Bar & Grill locations in Southern
Illinois and three Memphis Championship Barbecue restaurants in Las Vegas. He is also a partner in Blue Smoke,
Danny Meyer’s New York barbecue and jazz joint.
Some purists disagree about expanding menu options.
Bandana’s for example, is sticking to barbecue. “We just
want to do one thing well and do it better than everyone
else,” says Rick White, CEO. White says he’s seen an increasing number of female customers over the years and
believes it’s because they serve their barbecue sauceless.
“It’s not messy,” says White.
Smokers Save Labor
Advances in smoking equipment have propelled the industry, reducing labor costs. John Head, barbecue consultant and senior vice president of operations of the Culinary
Institute of Smoke Cooking, advises foodservice operators
to consider the labor savings from commercial smokers,
not just the cost of the machine.
Room to Grow
BBQ Restaurants Per 100,000 People
New York.........................1
Houston..........................7
Los Angeles ..................2
Dallas ............................ 7
Chicago ........................ 3
Kansas City....................8
St. Louis.........................4
Memphis ......................15
Gas and electric smokers ensure consistent temperatures so meats can be left unattended when smoking
overnight. “Select a smoker with digital controls and a
holding feature,” says Head, “so you won’t have to hire
someone to come and take the meat out.”
“There are a lot more options now for operations that
want to do their own barbecue on a smaller scale,” says
Mills. “They have equipment that you can get through
the door and install below your hood system.” Smaller
smokers with a 200-pound capacity cost about $4,000.
To learn how to create great barbecue, Mills recommends the National Barbecue Association Conference
and Expo, where you can meet face-to-face with barbecue experts. “They won’t tell you exactly how to cook it,
but they will tell you what they do,” says Mills. “They will
tell you what works for them.” Another option is the Culinary Institute of Smoke Cooking, which is approved by
the American Culinary Federation.
Non-traditional BBQ Fare
When barbecue meets Italian and Mexican cuisines the
results are interesting. At Interstate Bar-B-Que in Memphis
you’ll find barbecue spaghetti, while Rib Crib features the
Bar-B-Rito, a cheddar tortilla filled with barbecue chicken, brisket or pork, beans, cheese, caramelized onions and
creamy Bar-B-Rito sauce.
Cross barbecue with another all-American favorite
and you’ve created a specialty of the fast-growing barbecue chain, Red, Hot & Blue. The All-In-Burger is piled
high with pulled pork BBQ, onion rings, melted cheddar
and Mojo mild barbecue sauce.
SWEETThat can’t
BE Beat
CATTLEMEN’S® Sweet Barbecue Sauce is made with real sugar for an outstanding,
sweet taste that’s perfect straight from the jug. So serve your patrons the sweet
BBQ they crave with CATTLEMEN’S — the brand used by the past 14 champions
of the Memphis in May* BBQ Competition in their winning recipes.
For more information on CATTLEMEN’S Sweet Barbecue Sauce,
CALL 1-800-442-4733 OR VISIT WWW.FRENCHSFOODSERVICE.COM
*Trademark of Memphis in May International Festival, Inc.
©2008 Reckitt Benckiser, Inc.
Advertisement
SIGNATURE SIDES
Offer Comfort and Profit
B
arbecue is comfort food and the sides that accompany it are every bit as appealing as baby
back ribs smoked to perfection.
BBQ baked beans, coleslaw and potato salad can
bring as much value to foodservice operators as center
of the plate items. “Sides offer an opportunity to create tremendous
equity,” says Chet Holden, corporate chef for Allens.
“Consumers will return to a restaurant, not only for their
barbecue, but for the signature sides they can’t get anywhere else.”
“It’s easy to add a signature touch to your BBQ baked
beans,” says Holden. “Simply add some of your own barbecue sauce or bits of smoked meat to Allens Baked Beans
for flavor that reflects your unique style of barbecue.”
“By choosing an array of sides that time-pressed customers don’t cook at home, your check averages will increase,” says Holden. “And you can build incremental sales
by offering takeout options.”
The same advantages apply to noncommercial operations. In campus foodservice, for example, barbecue can
break the monotony of meal plans. As for the sides, there
are plenty of reasons why they deserve equal attention.
“The whole concept of the center of the plate has
changed in education,” says Ralph Pfremmer, CEO of
Pfoodman, the contract management firm that manages
foodservice operations at Lindenwood University in St.
Louis. “It is really important to consider the sides, because
a lot of people are not eating the center [of the plate].”
Food costs are another concern. “You don’t want
students filling up on protein items in an all-you-caneat setting,” said Pfremmer.
The award-winning flavor of Allens Baked Beans can
build sales and profits in countless creative ways:
• Add diced green chilies and toasted cumin for
Cinco de Mayo Baked Beans.
• Create Tahitian Baked Beans by adding toasted
coconut, mandarin oranges, ginger and clove.
• Offer a Baked Bean Bar, for personalized flavor.
Start with chopped green onions, minced pepper, grated cheese and diced cooked bacon.
For more information and exciting recipes, visit www.allens.com.
S-6
May 2008
Barbecue Thrives on Campus
There is also growing interest in authentic barbecue on
campuses. When Chuck Wigington, food service director
for ARAMARK/University of Memphis Dining was hired, it
seemed natural to put his background in smoke cooking to
work. Pulled pork sandwiches and plates are now served
every day, and other items such as brisket and turkey are
rotated in every two weeks. Barbecue is also a featured
item at large catering events such as freshmen orientations and senior picnics.
“We use a commercial sauce and adapt it, to get better
consistency,” says Wigington. Both hot and mild sauces
are kept heated and added just before serving. “The
quality of the barbecue seems to hold better if you don’t
put the sauce on until the last minute.”
Hot Item in Healthcare
When the University of Wisconsin Hospital & Clinics’
foodservice operation began looking for new flavors they
could add to their menu, they found inspiration in barbecue. Equipped with a new smoker, the Madison healthcare facility began offering apple wood, hickory and
pecan-smoked ribs, brisket and pulled pork at the cafeteria
late in 2007. The authentically smoked barbecue items and
homemade barbecue sauce were well received by patrons
of the $5.5 million retail sales operation. “It gives us something really unique that we can sell at different times of the
year,” says John Hofman, director of food services.
Catering Bonanza
Carryout and catering offer an excellent opportunity to
boost revenues for barbecue restaurants. Carryout represents 25 percent of Bandana’s business and about 30 percent
of revenue at Mike Mills’ restaurants.
“I’ve seen our catering grow from a few hundred thousand
dollars to almost $3 million last year,” says Bandana’s White.
Events range from huge corporate picnics serving thousands
to business meetings and weddings. In Southern Illinois, it’s
not unusual to see a slab of Mike Mills’ famous ribs set in the
center of the table at a wedding reception.
Authentic and Convenient
For the majority of foodservice operations who don’t own
smokers, there are still plenty of ways to add authentic regional barbecue flavor to appetizers, salads, entrées and
sandwiches. For example, meats smoked off-premises can
provide an authentic hickory-smoked flavor and texture.
Best Selling ’Cue & Sides
Barbecue
Sides
17th Street Bar & Grill
Pulled Pork
Ribs, BBQ Burger
Tangy Pit Beans
Coleslaw
Green Beans
Bandana’s Bar-B-Q
Pulled Pork
BBQ Nachos
Potato Salad
Calhoun’s
Ribs
Pulled Pork
Creamy Country Slaw
Tenn. Corn Pudding
Baked Beans
Dinosaur Bar-B-Que
Ribs, Brisket
Pulled Pork
BBQ Wings
Macaroni and Cheese
French Fries
Coleslaw
Johnny Rebs’
BBQ Baby Back Ribs Hushpuppies
St. Louis Pork Ribs
Biscuits
BBQ Pinto Beans
Operators only need to heat and sauce the product.
Pulled pork, ribs, brisket, sausages and chicken create a wide
variety of menu possibilities. Purchasing unsauced products
also creates an opportunity for custom menu items, when you
add a house-made sauce. “Chefs can experiment and come up
with their own flavors,” says Tunnicliffe. “They can work with a
base sauce, add to it, and make their own flavor profiles.”
At Mercer University Dining Services/ARMARK, in Macon,
Ga., lack of a smoker didn’t deter Executive Chef Richard
Gerow from using barbecue to add excitement to the menu.
A “BBQ 10 Ways” event brought barbecue flavor to 10 meat
and vegetarian dishes.
“In addition to BBQ beans & bacon, we served vegan beans
and barbecue eggplant,” says Gerow. “BBQ oysters were created by adding spicy barbecue powder to oysters on the half
shell, and heating them on a Panini griddle. When warmed
through, the oysters were topped with a vinegar-based slaw.”
“Barbecue is a staple in Georgia,” says Pat Brussack, dietary
specialist for the award-winning foodservice operations at the
University of Georgia. Fully cooked pulled pork sandwiches
are on the weekday menu and BBQ baby back ribs are on the
weekend menu. Other items include a Chipotle Pork BBQ Wrap
and BBQ tofu sandwich. Authentic barbecue is sometimes prepared for special events using a smoker operated by the Meat
Science department. In 2007, a popular BBQ and Bluegrass
event featured regional barbecue and sauces.
Always Room for More
As interest in barbecue heats up, authenticity will be
paramount. With barbecue’s already diverse flavor profi le, there will be many ways to satisfy America’s craving
for barbecue and home-cooked sides. Whether operators
create their own style or emulate the style of a barbecue
region, solutions in the form of smokers, commercially
smoked meats, woods, sauces, seasonings, and sides will
add authentic flavor to the menu.
No one solution will be right for every foodservice operation, just as there is no one dominant style of barbecue. But looking to the future, Mike Mills is probably right
when he says, “Every place can use more barbecue.”
Casual Dining Embraces BBQ
Claim Jumper – Hickory BBQ Burger Applewood smoked
bacon, Gouda, Thousand Island, BBQ sauce and the works
Chili’s – Brown Sugar Chile Rub Baby Back Ribs Rubbed
w/brown sugar, chile & spices served with Ancho-chile BBQ sauce
Coco’s Bakery Restaurant – BBQ Chicken Quesadilla
Chicken, Jack and cheddar cheese, green chiles, sautéed onions and
BBQ sauce in a crispy tortilla
Loco’s – The Gobbler Smoked turkey grilled with Locos BBQ sauce
on a sub roll with melted cheddar, Jack, bacon and mayo
The Ram – Bourbon BBQ Meatloaf Meatloaf grilled and
smothered with whiskey BBQ glaze
Cheeseburger In Paradise – BBQ Pork Minis Three
marinated pulled BBQ Pork Minis with pickles and coleslaw, served on
brioche buns
Ham’s – BBQ Chicken Salad Fresh greens, diced tomatoes,
cucumbers, shredded cheese and bacon tossed with Chipotle Ranch
dressing and topped with BBQ chicken breast
Wing Stop – Hickory Smoked BBQ Chicken Wings
ADVERTISEMENT
AUTHENTIC SMOKED BARBECUE: DELIVERED
Can authentic smoked barbecue flavor come from somewhere
other than your kitchen? AUSTIN BLUES® BBQ customers say, “Yes!”
RIBS IN KANSAS CITY, MO.
PULLED PORK IN NORTH CAROLINA
n a city where diners crave both
steak and barbecue, “You have to
be able to please both sides,” says
Todd Brooks, corporate chef of Hereford
House, a legendary Kansas City steakhouse owned by The Anderson Group, a
seven-unit, multi-concept operator.
The taste of AUSTIN BLUES ® barbecue was all it took to convince Brooks
to stop smoking Hereford House’s
signature ribs in-house.
“If I didn’t tell anybody, I’d bet you
10 out of 10 people would not know
we have our ribs smoked somewhere
else,” says Brooks.
AUSTIN BLUES® St. Louis-style pork
ribs arrive fully cooked and unsauced.
Af ter applying a sweet and spicy
dry rub, the ribs are grilled over hickory
charcoal, and finished with the restaurant’s own smoky barbecue sauce.
For the Lifeway Ridgecrest Conference
Center in western North Carolina, a commercial smoker wasn’t an option. But
neither was a menu without barbecue.
To resolve this dilemma, Food and Beverage Manager Mark Ricketts relies on
AUSTIN BLUES® fully cooked barbecue
pulled pork to deliver authentic smoked
barbecue flavor on the buffet line.
The pulled pork is requested so often Ricketts doesn’t see it ever coming
off the menu.
“It’s like you’ve done the smoking yourself,” he says. “The flavor is perfect.” Ricketts also likes how the product holds up
on the line, retaining its moisture and
chunky, hand-pulled texture.
I
For more information and recipes using
AUSTIN BLUES® BBQ ribs, pulled pork, pulled
chicken, hot links, beef brisket and pork loin,
visit www.hormelfoodservice.com.
May 2008
S-7
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©2007 Hormel Foods Sales, LLC
www.hormelfoodservice.com
1-800-723-8000