design - Solitaire Magazine

71
June — July 2014
The
Diamond Issue
Blue Sapphire no heat 10.39 ct, Diamonds 11.29 ct, 18K Gold
Prince’s Building,
HONG KONG
by appointments only
SIGN IN
he diamond is nature’s toughest gemstone known
to man. Capable of turning heads, and melting
a woman’s heart through its sheer symbolism of
enduring love. It has caused wars and decided their
outcomes; brought incredible riches to some, and the deepest misery
to others. Yet, its many attributes, its brilliance and its radiant light is
unparalleled in the world of high jewellery.
In this issue of Solitaire, we get up close and personal with the
timeless rose-cut diamond, and why it is undergoing a remarkable
renaissance. We unravel the mystery behind Chameleon diamonds and
the confusion they can cause. We take you on a journey to the dark side
of Azature, a designer working with black diamonds and his fascination
with this gemstone. Family values come alive at Dehres, a purveyor
of top end diamonds in Hong Kong. We show you the passion and
craftsmanship of the Italian Maskada and Hervé Van der Straeten, a
French master jeweller.
We review the recent Baselworld 2014, where we see how the ever
popular diamond has enhanced the elegance of the latest timepieces
and show-stopping jewellery. While there, we will show you a
beautifully complicated timepiece by Christophe Claret that has won
over hearts and minds of women everywhere. We get an insider view
of the complex process of auctions and what buyers and sellers should
know before stepping into the arena. And we conclude the journey
with a somewhat bizarre twist on how diamonds can add sparkle to
your eyes in a nameless crowd.
In the words of Lorelei Lee, star of Gentlemen Prefer Blondes: “A kiss
on the hand may be quite continental, but diamond’s are a girl’s best
friend.” If you didn’t already know, you’ll find out why in this issue.
Enjoy.
Christel Lee
Assistant Editor
6
THERE ARE EXCEPTIONS
TO EVERY RULE.
SINGAPORE AUDEMARS PIGUET BOUTIQUE
541 ORCHARD ROAD LIAT TOWERS #01-03
TEL (65) 6836 4918
AUDEMARSPIGUET.COM
CONTENT
56
6
SIGN IN
Simple Sophistication
12
TEAM
16
BOUTIQUE
New & Exclusive
FACETS
44
RENAISSANCE ROSE
A traditional diamond cut regains
popularity
54
CIRCULAR EMOTIONS
A playful weave under the fingers
64
FLUID CONTOURS
Twirling around jewelled waves
68
CELESTIAL MAGIC
Constellation-inspired jewellery
72
MASTERS OF MYSTERY
Chameleon diamonds reveal their
true colours
54
TIMELESS
56
DRESS REVERSAL
Dress watches for every occasion
84
CONSTANT COMPANIONS
Diamond timepieces from the latest
Baselworld
94
26
8
IT’S COMPLICATED
A man’s answer to a woman’s eternal
question
INTERVIEW
26
THE FAIRY GEM FATHER
Celebrities’ jeweller of choice
CONTENT
DESIGN
30
80
THE MERRY MAN
Joy and simplicity in Michel Ermelin’s
designs
34
THE NOBLE CUT
Maskada’s impressions set in stone
48
DARKER SHADES OF GREY
Azature Pogosian’s obsession with black
diamonds
50
ON BRILLIANT TERMS
60
FASHIONABLE FORMS
Artinian’s forms with feminine silhouettes
Hervé Van der Straeten crosses from
furniture to jewellery
66
REFLECTION OF NATURE
Dehres’ unwavering passion for jewellery
80
IN FULL BLOOM
Flower Diamond’s illustrious collections
REVIEW
74
CUFFS AND COLOURS
Dramatic statements at Baselworld 2014
90
THE ICON FACTOR
The Impossible Collection of Jewelry
KNOWLEDGE
96
COLOURED STARS
Gems that grab the limelight in Asia’s
auctions
66
STYLE
38
SCARLET BEAUTY
Julianne Moore goes from the red carpet
onto the streets of New York
100
STAR LIGHT STAR BRIGHT
Brilliant diamonds set against
striking hues
ATELIER
110
GALAS
120
TAX FREE HEAVEN
Sparkling Soirées
Fine jewellery connoisseurs congregate
at MIJ 2014
122
74
10
HOROSCOPE
A Bimonthly Forecast
124
RING GUIDE
126
JEWELLERY SHOW DIARY
128
JEWEL BOX
Eye Candy
Asia Representative – Ms. Alaya Ochaka Tel. + 6681 9186220
MILANO
Via della Spiga 9
Tel. +39 0276021610
www.scavia.it
TEAM
CONTENT
ASSISTANT EDITOR Christel Lee
ASSISTANT EDITOR FOR JETGALA Koh Chuin Ying
EDITORIAL EXECUTIVE Charmaine Tay
PRE-PRESS Maggie Shi
MASTHEAD & TEMPLATES Sylvia Weimer / Spacelab Design Sydney
CONTRIBUTORS
Olive Cuenca, Katrina Balmaceda, Nina Hald, Jennifer Henricus, Jonathan Ho,
Aniko Navai, Charmaine Tai, Sandy Tan
COMPANY
PUBLISHER Rainer Sigel
MANAGING DIRECTOR Michelle Tay
ASSISTANT MANAGER, BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT Gynn Lee
CIRCULATION & PRODUCTION MANAGER Caroline Rayney
OFFICE MANAGER Winnie Lim
MARKETING ASSISTANT Anne Goh
A passion for writing and discovering stories has
led Katrina Balmaceda to live and work as a
newspaper journalist in her hometown of Cebu,
Philippines, a business reporter in California,
USA, then a private aviation and property editor
for Jetgala and Palace magazines in Singapore.
Now back in Cebu, she freelances for various
publications, teaches at a university, and enjoys
the tropical island life.
Jennifer Henricus is a lifestyle and travel writer
who enjoys tracking international trends in
architecture, interior design and fashion. The
globetrotter lived in Hong Kong, London and
Melbourne before finally settling back in her
hometown, Colombo, Sri Lanka. She is happiest
when sharing her city’s secrets with visiting
friends.
CONTACT
120 Lower Delta Road #13-11
Cendex Centre, Singapore 169208
T: +65 6273 0620
F: +65 6273 0632
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EDITORIAL [email protected]
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Opinions expressed are those of the contributors and not necessarily endorsed by
the Publisher.
Sandy Tan finds magic in the written word and
power in communication. She began her career
as a music journalist in Australia, and later joined
Oriental Publishing in Singapore, where she
wrote and edited stories for Jetgala, Palace and
Solitaire magazines. Currently based in Australia,
she continues to write for niche titles while
pursuing an education in contemporary music.
Since the age of four years, Nina Hald has
nurtured a passion for diamonds and other
gemstones. Armed with a Master’s degree in
Media Science, she has been writing about high
jewellery since 2003. The accomplished writer has
penned five books about jewellery and gemstones,
and even arranged and curated three royal
jewellery exhibitions.
COPYRIGHT NOTICE
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Printed by KHL Printing Co, Singapore
MCI(P)064/04/2014
KDN PPS 1813/03/2013 (025535)
COVER PHOTO CREDITS
PHOTOGRAPHER Alwin Oh
STYLIST Serene Seow
MODEL Ebony Lee / UPFRONT Models
HAIR Edward Chong
MAKE-UP Elain Lim
ON MODEL
JJEWELLERY Lazare
DRESS DKNY
ATELIER OPENER
Image courtesy of Cartier
12
BOUTIQUE
Stefan Hafner has tastefully weaved a
cluster of flowers into the form of its
Astro necklace. Sprinkles of blue flowers
are illustrated with tiny buds of blue
marquise-cut sapphires. Demonstrating
elegance and craftsmanship, this faceted
stone flower cluster draws you in and gives
an elegant boost to any outfit.
www.stefanhafner.com
Paris-based designer Yvonne Léon has taken her designs to
new heights through The Bottom Ear collection that is centred
around lining the ear with diamonds. Striving to revisit tradition
in her creations with something classical yet innovative, Léon
used seven diamonds set in 18k yellow gold to make a subtle yet
bold statement for the chic, modern woman. One can hardly
guess that the sources for her inspiration are family jewel boxes
and flea markets. www.yvonneleon.com
Launched at this year’s Baselworld, Verdi presents Mother Nature’s
finest sub-aquatic and subterranean treasures. The exquisite rose
gold bangles feature round diamonds paved amidst multicoloured
sapphires. Natural South Sea and Tahitian pearls of exceptional lustre
frame each end of the bangle. The ethereal combination demonstrates
an unparalleled mix of pearls and diamonds that showcase Verdi’s
sense of innovation. www.verdigioielli.com
Picchiotti captures the pride of
the peacock through a refined
brooch by the same name,
mimicking the eye-like spots
of the bird’s plumage through
a unique display of coloured
diamonds. That aside, the main
draw of the piece is a pearshaped five-carat diamond at its
centre. www.picchiotti.it
16
A Rocker’s
Signature
With his glam-rock style and charisma
to match, Stephen Webster is known
for his striking yet contemporary
jewellery. This time, he took to rocker
David Bowie for his Lady Stardust
collection. His Deco earrings, a tribute
to the famous rocker, are set in 18k
white gold with black diamonds.
www.stephenwebster.com
Paraiba Tourmalines
BOROS
Available at Leading Jewellers
Couture Show Las Vegas: Wynn Hotel Booth 410
Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair: CEC Grand Hall D12
www.kriegernet.com
BOUTIQUE
Italy’s premier fine jeweller, Zydo has created a most
graceful three-line necklace with round diamonds,
alternating between marquise- and pear-cut
diamonds in 11 flower motifs. The cascading swags
of shimmer are certain to lend their sparkle to a
woman’s décolleté for a night out.
www.zydo.it
As a high jewellery brand synonymous with oustanding
craftsmanship, Italy-based Annamaria Cammilli Gioielli
incorporates water’s fluid forms in the Premiere collection.
Tints of nature are reflected through drop-shaped stones.
Their diamond pendant is set in flowy silhouettes of white
gold, with small diamonds framing three pear-cut white
diamonds. www.annamariacammilli.com
Intense admiration of the heron is
reflected in Carrera y Carrera’s Seda
Imperial collection. Known as a
symbol of positive change, the heron
is also esteemed for its ability to ward
off negative energy. The Garzas Maxi
earrings feature brilliant-cut diamonds
set in white gold and are designed after
the wings of the legendary feathered
creature. www.carreraycarrera.com
A shiny wrist accessory is a surefire way
to add a touch of class to any casual
outfit. Christelle presents a refined mix of
deviations through the X-Cuff bangle. Set
in 18k rhodium-plated white gold and
with paved white diamonds, it evokes an
edgy vibe with a soft, feminine touch at
first sight. www.christelle.com
18
Boucheron has raised the bar on watchmaking by a notch
with the début of their Cristal de Lune timepiece, shown first
at the recent Baselworld. Its case is paved with baguette-cut
diamonds, while the reverse is set with diamonds in a random
snow-setting technique. A mother-of-pearl dial features
hands in white gold set with a single diamond at the centre.
Boucheron’s recurring figure, Paon de Lune, also known as
moon peacock, makes its appearance in the timepiece wearing a
tiara of bezel-set diamonds. www.boucheron.com
:ME6SWE
COLLECTION
JOAILLERIE
1 E R M P E ˆ 4 E V M W ˆ , S R K / S R K ˆ [ [ [ N I [ I P Q I V G S Q
BOUTIQUE
Louis Vuitton presents its
Parisian heritage with the
graphic Emprise watch. Set
with 64 diamonds, the horns
holding the calfskin strap
are emphasised by motifs
derived from trunk cornerpieces. The square case is
enlivened by reflections in
the double-bevelled glass.
The piece depicts a grosgrain
pattern, with the initials ‘LV’
positioned at the bottom right.
www.louisvuitton.com
COSMO MAGIC
Van Cleef & Arpels embraces spring’s arrival with a new
Cosmo collection inspired by an iconic flower of the
same name that dates back to the 1950s. The addition of
Brazilian onyxes exhibits timeless elegance whilst a touch
of romance is illustrated through heart-shaped baskets. A
mother-of-pearl version set in rose gold is also available.
www.vancleefarpels.com
A team of young designers at jewellery manufacturer
Victor Mayer, under Creative Director Marcus Mohr’s
leadership, has converted a slice of nature into a pair
of cufflinks in the shape of bees. The yellow gold body
contrasts with the bee’s white gold wings, enhancing
its masculinity. Mohr, who also serves as the company’s
managing director says: “We conceived it as an award
for men and also as a self-ironic nod to the work ethos
of the workaholic.” www.victormayer.com
SOUL MATES
FreyWille has taken a page out of the
book, Egon Schiele and His Beloved Studio
in Krumau, Southern Bohemia, influenced
by the highly-acclaimed artist’s stay in
Bohemia. Through the brand’s Egon
Schiele collection, Bohemian Air
and Dancing Muse creations express
Bohemia’s free-spirited lifestyle.
FreyWille’s pieces, ranging from
pendants to rings and cuffs, feature 24k
powdered gold between enamel.
www.freywille.com
Lalique pays tribute to Psyche, wife of Eros, the God of Love. Literature often paints
Psyche with butterfly wings, and likewise, this Greek mythology-inspired winged piece
displays a series of butterfly motif pieces encrusted with diamonds and coloured stones.
The Psyche Daytime ring features a 1.10-carat trillion-cut orange sapphire paved with pink,
orange and yellow sapphires together with 29 diamonds set in red gold. www.lalique.com
20
Visit Artinian Fine Jewellery at the June Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair
19 -22 June 2014, Booth GH-B16
°
www.artinian.net
BOUTIQUE
Houston-based Sutra quickly
earned a reputation for designing
contemporary jewellery using
large, colourful stones, becoming
many celebrities’ go-to brand for
red carpet appearances. A pair of
earrings resembling fish bones was
worn by Vanessa Hudgens at the
2014 Golden Globe Awards after
party. Set in 18k white gold, the pair
features nine carats of diamonds,
including a one carat rose-cut
diamond. www.sutrajewels.com
Women always strive to look
their very best at their own
weddings. Malaysia-based
Suen Jewellers aims to relieve a
bride’s stress by creating a Lucky
Star collection, comprising a
pendant and a pair of earrings.
The set is finished in 18k
white gold and completed
with marquise-cut diamonds.
www.suenjewellers.com
As one of the world’s most acclaimed diamonds
producer, Lazare Diamonds lives up to its name through
sophisticated designs that best accentuate their
stones. Lazare’s Fantasy earrings from the À
la mode collection is set in 18k white gold
and features three hearts which elegantly
reflect the stones’ shimmer. The earrings also
feature two pieces of 0.26-carat diamonds on
each side and 144 diamonds totalling 2.35
carats. www.lazarediamonds.com
Yves Piaget’s love for roses
comes alive once more
through the brand’s latest
Rose Passion collection.
Versatility is key to the
success of this collection,
allowing the pieces to be
worn in various ways. The Rose Passion headband features 341 brilliantcut diamonds with one pear-shaped diamond set in the middle of the
piece. The piece is set in white gold. www.piaget.com
22
Best known for rare-coloured
gemstones, notably emeralds,
Gemfields’ commitment to using
ethically-sourced gemstones extends
to London-based Theo Fennell’s
creation. The 18k white gold, emerald
and diamond scallop key pendant is
encrusted with an 8.7-carat Zambian
emerald and 2.79 carats worth of
diamonds. www.gemfields.co.uk
BOUTIQUE
ISE Jewellery is an independent
ndent
bespoke jeweller that firmlyy believes
in beauty and perfection. One
ne piece
that proves this philosophy is the
Diamond Palace pendant that
at is
set with 3.26 carats worth off white
diamonds in 18k rose and white
gold. A pear-shaped white diamond
is framed by other six pear-shaped
shaped
diamonds. www.isejewellery.com
y.com
One of the world’s top producers of
rare golden South Sea pearls, Jewelmer
Joaillerie showcases their speciality
through their Tropics collection. The large
Tropics Daisy ring is set in 18k yellow gold and
features diamonds totalling 2.30 carats. Its glory
is completed with one golden South Sea pearl.
www.jewelmer.com
Swiss jeweller De Grisogono’s
fine jewellery and watches can
be described as enigmatic and
seductive. Allegra S07/B features
a black mother-of-pearl dial with
white gold dauphine hands. Its
case and bezel are fully set with
309 diamonds, while a black
diamond sits on its crown. The
custom-fitted band is made from
10 black leather and 10 white
gold chords, complete with 250
diamonds. www.degrisogono.com
24
Provocative
SPRING
Dilys’ greets spring with a twist in their latest Anthea
diamond brooch. The brooch is set in 18k white
gold, encrusted with black and white diamonds. The
craftsmanship proves that boundaries can always be
pushed with a more intense interpretation of seasons.
www.dilyscollection.com
Hans D. Krieger upholds their tradition of jewellery making by
exercising their forte in using natural-coloured stones. Each
creation is designed to awaken one’s desire to possess and wear
something special. Set in 18k yellow and white gold, a pair of
yellow diamonds totalling more than one carat takes the spotlight
beneath a string of white diamonds. www.kriegernet.com
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INTERVIEW
NTERVIEW
MARTIN
MA
ARTIN KATZ
KA
ATZ
Celebrities’ jeweller of choice
26
ear-long sunshine,
a vibrant beach
lifestyle, and the
dream of making it
big in the movies
attract many to
move and live in
California. Martin Katz’s reasons for moving
there straight out of university from the
Midwest may well have been the same. But
what even he did not expect was that when
he set up his company Martin Katz Ltd. in
1988, it would rapidly gain international
prominence. Starting out with trading in
vintage jewellery, Katz moved up to become
something of a design guru. Solitaire charts
the fascinating history and convincing style
of the blue-eyed “Jeweller to the Stars”.
WHAT WAS YOUR FIRST
EXPERIENCE WITH JEWELLERY
LIKE, AND HOW DID IT CHANGE
YOU?
I recall visiting a jewellery store in Chicago
go
with my sister at a very young age. I must
have been 10 years old and I’m sure my eyes
were like saucers. I had never seen such
splendour — one magnificent jewel after the
next. That must have been the start of myy
love affair with jewellery, though it was years
ears
later that I wanted it to be my life.
I started out dealing in vintage jewellery
ry
but I couldn’t always find compatible pieces
ces
that could be worn with estate jewels thatt
I had sold to my clients. From there, I
started designing a few pieces, which my
clients began buying before they were even
en
completed. It was an exciting time.
Katz counts his wife,
Kelly as his greatest
inspiration
Pear Shape Aquamarine
earrings set in 18k white
gold and accented with
diamonds
Emerald Cut
Aquamarine ring set
with a 5.62-carat
aquamarine and 408
diamonds in 18k white
gold
OPPOSITE
Art Deco-inspired halfmoon emerald earrings
that remain memorable
to Katz, even till today
WHAT INSPIRES YOU?
The greatest inspiration is my beautiful
wife, Kelly. There is nothing and no one
greater, and I am inspired by all things
around me. In my world, inspiration
abounds. When a woman discovers a piece
ce
of jewellery that is a reflection of herself, the
jewel becomes her, and takes on an elegance
and beauty never seen before.
OF ALL THE PIECES YOU’VE
DESIGNED, WHICH HAS A SPECIAL
PLACE IN YOUR HEART?
All my designs are special to me but one
favourite comes to mind. It was a pair of
half-moon emerald earrings that I had
created. It has a single large round cabochon
emerald, which had an inclusion at the top.
It concerned me so much that I decided to
cut the stone in half — not an easy decision
for such a large emerald — resulting in two
perfect half-moon crescents. I matched it
with some very large trapezoid diamonds
and created an Art Deco-inspired pair of
emerald and diamond earrings, set with
almost 900 diamonds.
27
INTERVIEW
PLEASE TAKE US THROUGH YOUR
DESIGN PROCESS.
It’s a fascinating process, and one I enjoy
most. Typically, I design around a stone I
ile,
have acquired. I must ‘live’ with it for a while,
hold it, turn it, see it in different lighting,
n
and try to feel what it represents. When an
idea strikes, I will sketch my basic concept,,
and as soon as I am satisfied, I’ll pass it to
my artists to further articulate my vision. We
discuss it at length and often make many
ed
changes until I see exactly what I envisioned
being translated on paper. The design and
stone will go to one of my five speciality
workshops, taking months, or sometimes
even a year to complete. Only when it
is perfect will it be placed in one of our
jewellery cases. That is, if it has not alreadyy
been sold.
HOW DIFFERENT IS IT NOW
WHEN CELEBRITIES DON YOUR
JEWELLERY, COMPARED TO WHEN
N
YOU FIRST STARTED?
In the early days, when celebrities came
to my salon, we worked closely with them
to make the most appropriate selection,
and everyone was always pleased. It has
changed a lot now. The process is mostly
done through stylists who choose the pieces
es
to present their clients. I have never paid
a stylist to ‘place’ my jewels — a common
practice today — and never will. Many
brands contact celebrities to wear their
jewels on the red carpet because it
attracts international press. When a
celebrity wants to wear my jewels,
they know where to find me, and
they wear it with pride.
HAVE THERE BEEN ANY
UNPLEASANT EXPERIENCES
WHEN IT COMES TO DEALING WITH
CELEBRITIES?
There are no ghastly tales to tell, and I know
that any celebrity who has worn my jewels
has been proud to do so, and likewise for me.
A few of them include Salma Hayek, Nicole
Kidman, Sandra Bullock and Kate Winslet.
Many have remained friends throughout
the years.
28
FRO TOP
FROM
Paraiba Tourmaline
Para
Cabochon & Diamond
Cab
necklace with
nec
detachable earrings,
deta
featuring a total of
feat
112.20 carats of Paraiba
112.2
tourmalines and 19.02
tour
carats of diamonds
cara
Double-Circle Bubble
Dou
Drop earrings with a
Dro
total of 11.39 carats of
tota
diamonds
diam
Capellini Eleven-Strand
Cap
Diamond bracelet with
Diam
946 diamonds totalling
17.30 carats
Round Brilliant
Rou
Micropavé Diamond
Mic
Engagement ring with a
Eng
2.03-carat brilliant-cut
2.03
diamond
diam
FRO LEFT
FROM
Salma Hayek and Robin
Salm
Roberts look towards
Robe
Martin Katz to jazz
Mart
up th
their red carpet
appearances
appe
Cushion Spessartite
Cush
Garnet ring with a
Garn
15.71-carat spessartite
15.71
garnet and 2.21 carats of
garn
diamonds
diam
Emerald Cut Gray Spinel
Emer
with a 10.29-carat
ring w
spinel, white
gray spine
diamonds,
and black
b
diam
amethysts,
spinels
amet
thysts, blue spine
and purple sapphires
Diamond
Alexandrite & Diam
Ovall ring with 14 fancyalexandrites
shaped alexan
totalling 4.55 carats and
2.81 carats of diamonds
WHAT ARE SOME HIGHLIGHTS IN
YOUR CAREER?
If I had to name three of my proudest
moments thus far in my career, the first
would certainly be opening my first jewellery
salon in Beverly Hills. Another would be
when the media described me as the go-to
source and called me the “Jeweller to the
Stars” for Hollywood red carpet events. I
was one of the first independent jewellers to
have achieved this reputation. And of course,
designing and christening The Jewel Suite by
Martin Katz for The New York Palace hotel
makes the list. But like everyone in business
today, financing and building a clientèle are
the biggest challenges. I am so fortunate to
have clients all around the world who are
loyal, appreciate the design and quality of my
work, and the rarity of stones that I offer.
Martin Katz became an interior designer when a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity
arose to dress a 5,000 square foot suite at The New York Palace Hotel, enabling
him to dream up his vision of a ‘Jewel Suite’. It comprises a grand reception foyer,
master suite, entertainment lounge, and a private rooftop deck with an elevated
spa. A light and jovial mood is carried throughout the designer’s vision, and comes
well-furnished with artwork installations based on his jewellery designs. A 20-foot
Waterfall of Diamonds chandelier steals the spotlight. But Katz says his favourite part
of the suite is a “crystal and mirrored ‘diamond boudoir’ sitting room in the master
bedroom” (inset). The Jewel Suite by Martin Katz was officially opened last November
and coincided with Martin Katz Ltd.’s 25th anniversary.
29
DESIGN
MICHEL ERMELIN
by Jennifer Henricus
30
CLOCKWISE FROM
LEFT
Reine Verte necklace
and earrings with
emeralds and diamonds
Square bracelet made
with 26 carats of
sapphires and 34 carats
of emeralds
Flowers brooch with
turquoises totalling
99.54 carats and grey
diamonds
Astragale ring featuring
a total of 4.78 carats of
fancy yellow diamonds
Green Rain earrings with
43.93 carats of jade and
white diamonds
OPPOSITE
Ermelin constantly looks
out for new gemstones
and design techniques
to spread joy
nder the brand, Verney
Evolution, each piece of
jewellery by Michel Ermelin
speaks of joy. As one of the
most influential Parisian designers today,
Ermelin creates cheery pieces integrating
elements of exquisite movement, suppleness
and delightful surprise.
Born into a family of French jewellers,
Ermelin developed a passion for fine
gemstones and designs during his
childhood. In 1974, he established Poiray
— creating youthful and fresh jewellery
and watches. Six short years later, Verney
Evolution opened its doors at 24 Place
Vendome.
“The French word for jewellery is
joaillerie which has its root in joie or joy.
This attribute was instilled quite early into
my conceptualising,” Ermelin explains.
Today, he remains dedicated in looking
out for gemstones and new techniques to
communicate joy through each design.
Ermelin confesses to living by his hero,
Leonardo da Vinci’s wise words: Simplicity is
the ultimate refinement. These twin desires
of joy and simplicity have almost unwittingly
led to a new jewellery aesthetic. He is
credited with pushing the boundaries of
Parisian jewellery design. His extensive use
of black gold has also garnered substantial
recognition.
“I am passionate about the beauty of
gemstones and always strive to give the
gems total prominence in a piece,” he says.
In this quest, he discovered black gold is
the best way to “conceal” metal. He adds
that yellow and white gold tend to stand
out, and would overpower the beauty of the
gemstone.
Elements of surprise are his forte.
One such example is his mystery clock
which took three years to create. It has no
visible mechanism and gives the illusion
of suspended hands — just like magic.
Another mention is his mystery ring. It
first appears to be a large rounded cocktail
31
DESIGN
ring in black gold with grey diamonds. But it
opens up in parts, revealing a vibrant motif
in yellow gold with yellow diamonds.
Ermelin’s idea of a great day would be
when he finds a unique and beautiful
utiful stone,
tunes in to classical music and conceives
nceives a
setting fit for it. What adds to the excitement
is conducting the search right in Paris. “For
many years, dealers from all over the world
bring their treasures to us,” Ermelin
lin says.
“The pleasure is to dress it in your
ur creation,
while striking a balance between exuding
your ideas and not intruding upon
n the
stone’s beauty.”
Beauty and charm are the key attributes
he looks for in a gemstone. For him,
im, these
factors equate to magic. “You could
ld have two
five-carat diamonds, and [the] onee with more
charm will certainly lend itself to a magical
creation,” he says.
Verney Evolution now has a strong
rong
following among jewellery lovers in France,
Italy and the United Kingdom. But
ut more
recently it is Asian consumers — mainly
from Hong Kong, Thailand, Singapore
apore and
Malaysia — who seek out his unique
que designs,
especially of rings and pendants.
Ermelin firmly believes in jewellery
ellery
buyers who shop with their eyes wide open:
“[These people] prefer to have an exclusive
piece. They design an image, create
te their look
and they are unique. These are our
ur favourite
clients.”
ellery
As the line thins between jewellery
hobbyists and investors, Ermelin has one
piece of advice. “Buy something you like so
that everyday of your life, you can derive an
ultimate pleasure from wearing it. That for
sure, is the best investment ever,” he says.
FROM TOP
Atalante earrings with 70
carats of rubies and 2.82
carats of diamonds
Lara tassel pendant with
pink sapphires totalling
195.36 carats and white
diamonds
Carved ruby earrings
with diamonds
Red Orchid ring with a
total of 5.05 carats of
rubies
32
DESIGN
MASKADA GIOIELLI
by Sandy Tan
34
Lasting impressions finely
set in stone
Spirit of Maskada
necklace
OPPOSITE
Rays of Light pendants
or a long time,
baguette-cut
gemstones have
played favourites to
Art Deco jewellery, used as accents and
usually set in a tight pavé around larger
centrepieces. The elongated rectangular
shape of a baguette-cut gemstone allows
a seamless ‘face-to-face’ setting. The word
‘baguette’ actually means little jewel or long
rod in French, but Italian jeweller Mario
Maskada designs his pieces to bring to light
a more opulent facet to the baguette-cut
gemstone.
Maskada is a goldsmith that specialises
in handcrafted baguette- and marquise-cut
jewellery pieces. His work had gained the
attention of several established jewellers
in Valenza, and in 1974, Maskada founded
his own company. Maskada’s success is
celebrated with the very first piece he
created for his company 40 years ago — a
ring with a band of sapphires, rubies and
diamonds — all featuring baguette and
more slender tapered baguette cuts. “The
ring was very important, because it inspired
a design philosophy that I would follow
throughout my career,” says the designer.
Maskada’s personal favourite is the
eternity band, adorned with baguette-cut
diamonds, admired for its simplicity that
underlines the jeweller’s signature. He says
that for 40 years, every piece has been an
interpretation of the classic design with
baguette-cut gemstones taking centre stage.
“It’s quite difficult for us to identify trends
because our background has rarely been
influenced by current trends,” he says.
“Surely we could assume that generally,
there is a strong emphasis on expression
of design along with the use of innovative
elements that until recently, were distant
from jewellery.”
His new Rays of Light collection is
inspired by the concept of lightness and
the projection of light in space. Maskada
studied the lustre of baguette and tapered
baguette diamonds of unusual lengths, and
emphasised on minimal settings with lesser
use of precious metal than usual.
35
DESIGN
Every aspect of his craftsmanship — from
pencil drawings to polishing — is essential to
avoid errors. Maskada adds: “The selection of
the stones is the moment that requires more
time and attention, especially when creating
pieces with baguette-cut stones. Every
stone must be calibrated with maximum
precision for a perfect setting.” A piece may
take months to complete, depending on the
nature of its design.
On designing jewellery for women,
Maskada says: “A jewel should be looked
at as an integral part of a woman’s life. A
woman should always wear her jewels for
the pleasure of wearing, not looking at it as
a simple seasonal accessory.” The jeweller
adds that a better knowledge of clients’
personalities is important, especially for
exclusive custom requests. When asked
which celebrity would best exude the
elegance of Maskada’s designs, he says that
Charlize Theron and Grace Kelly come to
his mind.
Some of the most popular pieces hail
from the Spirit of Maskada collection, which
highlights the harmony between baguettecut and round diamonds. It includes
eternity band rings, as well as bangles
that clients may customise. And just as it
should, Maskada’s upcoming collection
due next year would be familiar — pieces
that resemble those in the Rays of Light
collection, featuring classical elements
coupled with coloured precious gemstones.
“I have always kept my design within its own
identity, giving only a peek to the trends of
the season,” says the jeweller. “I would like
a Maskada piece to resonate eternally — for
example, to be shared between a mother and
a daughter.”
FROM TOP
A pair of earrings
from the Rays of Light
collection
Spirit of Maskada
earrings, ring and bangle
36
STYLE
Moore wore a pair of
diamond chandelier
earrings set in yellow
gold to last year’s
Golden Globe Awards,
BULGARI
OPPOSITE PAGE
The actress wore a
pair of Cypris rings
from Boucheron that
are set with diamonds
and black sapphires to
the Paris premiere of
Non-Stop
38
N
JULIANNE MOORE
by Aniko Navai
he may have turned
53 at the end of last
year, but this Oscar
and Golden Globe
nominee remains
lively as ever. Calling
New York’s West Village her home, she is
happily married to director Bart Freundlich,
with whom she has two children. Juggling
between being an actress, wife and mother,
Moore still finds time to indulge in her other
interest — jewellery.
Moore not only enjoys, but also
appreciates both the beauty and value of
jewellery, referring to her collection as
“tangible memories”. One of her larger
purchases includes a vintage piece originally
worn by Elizabeth Taylor, bought at a Bulgari
auction after Taylor’s passing. Moore wore
the necklace and pendant, decked in over 80
carats of diamonds and emeralds, to Bulgari’s
annual pre-Oscar party. The piece of course
turned heads and overnight, became talk of
the town.
HOW HAVE YOU KEPT YOURSELF
LEVEL HEADED AMIDST ALL THE
FAME?
You know, at a certain point in your life, you
say: “How much time do I have in front of
me?” You’re literally at mid life. And you
think: ‘Am I living the kind of life I want to
live? Do I like my job? Is this the relationship
that I want to be in?’ I think women are
assessing their lives with the idea of balance;
Julianne Moore steps off
the red carpets and onto
the streets of New York
that you’re supposed to be able to have a job,
a career, and a family. Despite it being hard,
thank goodness we have that opportunity.
Women didn’t have that 20 or 30 years ago.
YOU DON’T SEEM TO HAVE AGED,
WHAT’S YOUR SECRET?
Iced water, lots of it. Also, it’s boring, but
I’ll say sunscreen. Since I was 24, I’ve worn
sunscreen every single day with a hat when
it’s sunny. For food, it obviously gets more
difficult the older you get. Oddly, I feel less
disciplined thereafter. I think if it weren’t
my job, I would pay less attention to it but
because it plays a large part in what I do, it’s
just sort of a fact.
39
STYLE
HOW DIFFERENT ARE YOU, ON
SCREEN AND IN REAL LIFE?
I will say I’m a girl’s girl. I am an actress and
have a lot of girlfriends. I love to travel; I
love to read. My husband makes fun of me
because he says I like everything ‘regular’. I
like everything normal; I’m not an ‘extreme’
person. I think the most extreme thing about
me is probably my interest in acting and
story [telling]. I like big emotional stories.
YOU SPEND TIME COLLECTING
JEWELLERY PIECES, AND YOU’VE
WORKED WITH BULGARI. HOW DO
YOU FEEL ABOUT IT?
YOU’VE BEEN IN THE INDUSTRY
FOR NEARLY 30 YEARS. HOW DO
YOU MAINTAIN SUCH A POSITIVE
OUTLOOK IN LIFE?
I’m wearing a beautiful Bulgari watch
today... that says it all, right? I mean, they’re
such a wonderful, venerable company with
incredible history, gorgeous stones and
craftsmanship. It is really a pleasure to be
associated with them. I love jewellery. I mean,
I really enjoy it. They are things you wear and
keep. And there’s usually a lot of emotional
attachment to it. Because often they’re gifts
from people, from your husband, parents or
friends. So for me, they’re memories too.
The hardest thing is that there’s supposed
to be this duality where you’re an actress but
you’re also supposed to look really good all
the time. You have the advantage of so many
people putting makeup on you, doing your
hair and wearing beautiful clothes. It can feel
very separate [from] who you are, so on one
hand it’s a pleasure; a fun thing to engage in,
and on the other hand that’s not quite you.
WHICH PIECE OF JEWELLERY IS
YOUR FAVOURITE?
My engagement ring which has the names
of my children on it. I like crazy rings with
elaborate stones. It’s fun and it’s art.
40
WHAT IS BEAUTY TO YOU, THEN?
I’m so flattered that people think that
I’m attractive. I stress to my children it’s
a complicated thing — that everybody’s
beautiful, real people are beautiful. It’s not
the image that we should aspire to, it’s what
real people look like.
Moore attended the
Bulgari Celebrates Icons
of Style: The Serpenti
event in a Lanvin dress,
accessorised with a
Serpenti neckpiece
and clutch, both from
Bulgari
At the celebration of
Elizabeth Taylor’s
collection, Moore wore
a necklace with 16
Colombian emeralds
and diamonds
Images courtesy of
Bulgari
STYLE
During the Paris premiere
of Non-Stop, Moore
wore jewellery from
Boucheron, including the
Hedgehog earrings
(below, left) and the
Pegase ring (below,
right). Both pieces
feature diamonds set in
white gold
IF WE HAD A CHANCE TO PEEK
INTO YOUR WALK-IN CLOSET,
WHAT WOULD WE SEE?
Tom Ford always says most of the actresses
he knows either have ball gowns or yoga
clothes. I’m no exception. I have a few
things that are very fancy. I have a ton of
casual clothes; a huge stack of jeans and
a million black t-shirts. I also either have
really, really high heels or Birkenstocks
— nothing in between. So that’s always
problematic whenever I’m just trying to
look nice.
But I love fashion. New York is a
challenge for fashion in terms of getting
around. You can’t wear the kind of shoes
you would like to. As a result I end up
wearing the same old kind of jeans, t-shirt
and jacket uniform. My daughter is actually
terrific at fashion. She puts really cute
things together and always wears this little
straw hat. It’s fun to watch her enjoy it.
IN MAP TO THE STARS, YOU PLAY
AN ACTRESS WHO HAS LONG
BLONDE HAIR. DID YOU LIKE
YOURSELF BLONDE?
My husband and kids didn’t like it, but it
was easier for them to get used to it because
they saw me all the time. Whereas every
time I saw myself in the mirror, I was like:
‘Whoa!’ I didn’t start colouring my hair
until about five years ago, when some greys
came in. There’s a spot in the front of my
head that, if I left it alone, would be a grey
streak. I’m not ready for that yet! I got
blonde highlights in my 30s, but I didn’t
like how they looked. And whenever I see a
redhead on the street, I nod or say hello. I
feel like there’s a redhead collective — you
notice each other.
42
FACETS
ROSE CUT DIAMONDS
by Charmaine Tay
CLOCKWISE FROM
LEFT
Tilda earrings, I AM
BRILLIANT, TOO
Tassel necklace with a
rose-cut pink diamond
and pearl beads,
BOGH-ART
Brooch with detachable pendant fully-set
with diamonds in 18k
white gold, D’MOND
PRESTIGE
The first diamonds were rather dull in
appearance, esteemed only for their hardiness
appearan
and rarity.
rarit The earliest cuts, point and table
failed to present diamonds at their finest.
Proof ca
came by way of dated paintings where
jewellery worn was depicted as being dark
coloured. The rose cut was probably the
coloured
first attem
attempt to prove just how a diamond’s
cutt had
h d a direct correlation to its brilliance,
and hence its enduring value. Since the rose
cut’s debut in Antwerp in the early 1500s, the
diamond has gone on to embellish jewellery
around the globe.
A most traditional
diamond cut
reclaims its lustre
44
FACETS
CLOCKWISE FROM
LEFT
Haute Couture Spring/
Summer 2014, RALPH
& RUSSO
A vintage ring that
incorporated a Full Rose
cut. This cut could also
be called Dutch Rose or
Holland Rose
Image courtesy of Lang
Antiques
Rose Cut Full Eternity
band with 3.19 carats of
rose-cut diamonds in
18k white gold, DAVID
MORRIS
46
Not to be mistaken with a diamond’s shape
— round, pear, or marquise for example
— diamond cuts refer to creating faceted
slopes on its surface, aiming for absolute
symmetry and proportion. Only then will a
diamond refract optimum light. This strive
for perfection saw the Rose undergo an
evolution: first from a three- or six-faceted
cut, to 12 facets effectively adding a crown,
subsequently to 18 facets, and finally a
full-fledged 24-faceted Full Rose cut. In its
attempt to mimic the bloom of a rose bud,
it was almost as if the cut had to undergo
several stages to achieve a full bloom. While
modern cuts are readily available today,
jewellers still incorporate rose-cut diamonds
in their designs, appreciating the history
of this ancient Rose, which propelled the
popularity of diamonds beyond measure.
To strengthen regal ties, David Morris
regularly features rose-cut diamonds in
their creations, celebrating 10 years of their
signature Rose Cut collection this year. The
Rose Cut Full Eternity band is formed out of
3.19 carats of white diamonds set in 18k white
gold. D’mond Prestige’s White Rose brooch is
finely detailed in 18k white gold, with veins
that extend outwards in each petal. The rosecut diamond centrepiece can be detached
to be worn as a pendant. I am brilliant, too’s
Tilda earrings draws attention towards its
middle, where rose-cut diamonds dangle,
accompanied by surrounding briolette- and
brilliant-cut diamonds. Bogh-Art uses a fancy
pink rose-cut diamond in a tassel, pearl, and
diamonds sautoir combination.
DESIGN
AZATURE
by Christel Lee
A celebrity jeweller finds success on the dark side
48
CLOCKWISE FROM
TOP LEFT
Pogosian's inclination
to darker shades are
apparent in his designs
One-of-a-kind
Adamande Black Pearl
pendant with black
diamonds
Adamande cuff with 90
black diamonds
Limited edition black
rhodium ring with a
65-carat blue topaz
One-of-a-kind platinum
ring with 235 white
diamonds and a fourcarat pear-cut diamond
OPPOSITE PAGE
Platinum ring with 162
black diamonds, 25
white diamonds and a
10-carat marquise-cut
diamond
fter Kelly Osbourne
sported his black
diamond nail polish
at the Emmy Awards
in 2012, followed by Jennifer Lopez at a
Broadway show, Azature Pogosian made
headlines. Controversy is good for publicity,
and the mixed reviews propelled this
jewellery designer to instant popularity as
the ‘Black Diamond King’.
Pogosian is fond of choosing the darkest
of colours for his jewellery. “Black has always
been a part of my life,” he says, “My mother
influenced me a lot; she has always been so
elegant, and often in black.” He recalls his
days in school, where his fascination with
black manifested through his work. “I would
always experiment with fabrics as we were
taught to be open-minded. However every
piece I made using other fabrics, I would
discard and remake it in black.”
Black diamonds are some of the most
mysterious and coveted gemstones, and they
make up but a small fraction of coloured
diamonds. Getting the perfect stone can
be difficult, especially since Pogosian’s
stringent standards ensure only a select
few are used. His specification? Black
diamonds with a greyish undertone.
“It shines a lot more than a solid, dark
black,” he explains. One of his signature
pieces is a limited edition platinum metal
ring with a black rhodium matte finish.
The ring features a 65-carat blue topaz
as the centre stone, and is lined with
235 micro pavé- and channel-set
black diamonds. Since founding his
namesake label in 2007, his collections
feature an endless arr
array of black
diamonds that glisten under the sun.
Pogosian also offer
offers a bespoke
service called Azature A
Atelier to clients
who wish to customise their jewellery.
This allows them to ch
choose the size, cut
and colour of the diamo
diamonds for their
pieces. His determinatio
determination in putting
his pieces out there hav
have certainly
paid off. Pogosian’s first celebrity client
was Rihanna, who not on
only wore his
pieces for her music videos, D
Disturbia and
Rehab, but also placed a cust
custom order for
her Diamonds World Tour. W
When word
got around, other celebrities like Scarlett
Johansson, Beyoncé Knowles and Liam
Hemsworth were seen with his creations.
Pogosian speaks fondly of the first piece
he created, one that has since become his
signature ring. The six-sided ring features
six carats of black diamonds. “This ring
is extremely special because six is my
lucky number. I was born on
12 June at 12:06pm. I have
never removed it since.” Yet,
even he is not exempted
from challenges, such as
being compared with other
prominent fine jewellers.
But he affirms: “I continue
to stay true to my vision and
offer consumers the quality
that comes from my heritage and
innovation that comes
from my design.”
49
DESIGN
ARTINIAN
by Sandy Tan
A jeweller reveals
his passion through
resolute designs
Necklace with 23.59
carats of diamonds
and 14.50 carats of
Colombian emeralds in
18k white gold
OPPOSITE
Arto Artinian is the
second generation
to carry on Artinian's
family traditions and
skills of the Armenian
jewellers
50
amily tradition
and finely
honed skills
form the very
foundations of Artinian’s
jewellery atelier. In the words
of President and CEO Arto
Artinian, the fine jewellery
pieces crafted in their
workshops carry the essence of
both their past and the present.
Artinian’s story began in the
1950’s when the first generation
of Artinian brothers started their
own workshop in the historic
jewellery district of Damascus. Both
were skilled Armenian jewellers,
and soon made a name for themselves
by making jewellery for elite clients. The
business progressed well due to the brothers’
growing reputation for exceptional quality in
both jewellery design and craftsmanship. In
time, they moved to a larger manufacturing
atelier with retail facilities, and a worldwide
diamond distribution operation based in
Antwerp.
The progression from there to the second
generation of Artinians came naturally to
both Arto and his brother Saro, who
grew up learning the skills and trade
at a very early age. By 1997, their
search for rare gemstones and
the ambition for further growth
into new markets resulted in
the establishment of Artinian
Co. Ltd. in Bangkok. Arto
reflects on the evolution of their
business and the refinement
of manufacturing techniques
since his father’s days: “The
artisans at my father’s workshop
were all Armenians and they
were very passionate, devoted
and proud jewellers with their
own creations. The methods used
were very traditional and basic, yet
the outcome was magnificent and artistic.
Today, we have progressed, gaining aptitude
as jewellers. Technological advancements,
the introduction of innovative tools and
machinery in the jewellery making processes
have helped us combine our traditional skills
and knowledge to reach a more advanced
level of refinement and sophistication in
jewellery making.”
Moving carefully with prevailing trends
51
DESIGN
FROM TOP
Necklace with pear-cut
Colombian emeralds
and brilliant-cut
diamonds
Edwardian-patterned
bracelet with step-cut
emeralds and brilliant-,
emerald- and pear-cut
diamonds
Floral ring with a mosaic
of emeralds, white and
yellow diamonds
All pieces are set in 18k
white gold
Emerald earrings with
cushion-cut Colombian
emeralds
remains at the core of the company’s
progress, while at the same time maintaining
exquisite craftsmanship and customer
dedication. Both are top priorities of
Artinian. Their current fine jewellery
collection features contemporary jewellery,
drawn with clean lines and feminine
silhouettes and finished with high quality
diamonds, emeralds, sapphires and rubies as
centrepieces. Arto’s favourite and personal
passion are fine gemstones, specifically
Colombian emeralds of the finest quality.
He sources thoroughly, with patience and
devotion. “Distinctive gemstones featured in
our creations have been collected over some
time,” says the jeweller. “The commitment
towards perfecting the finished pieces and
our orientation in working with the fine
gemstones have transcended over two family
generations.”
On a corporate level, Artinian’s creative
team is also involved in the conceptualisation
and product development of annual
collections for third parties. To this end, Saro
heads the creative and design development
department, while Arto provides the
company’s direction for the fine and bespoke
jewellery creations and their commitment
for outstanding client services. Arto remarks
that working with discerning clients is a
thrilling and motivating process. He says:
“The conceived jewellery pieces come out
quite spectacularly. And more importantly,
they are nicely-balanced between Artinian
standards and clients’ idiosyncrasies and
design aspirations.”
Arto and his team are currently designing
a new collection inspired by reinventing
timeless designs, which have always been
a part of Artinian’s creative philosophy.
52
The collection is due to launch this
coming September in Hong Kong. And
it is an impressive collection featuring
tribal motifs, clusters made with artistic
assortments, and the use of brilliant-,
marquise- and pear-cut diamonds with
unique Colombian emeralds and other
gemstones. The elaborate jewellery sets
also include diamond sautoirs with feather
motifs, as well as other pieces arranged in
tribal motifs.
Artinian continues to revisit the classics
and approaches trends selectively, relying
on a master jeweller’s age-old quiet
confidence in simply crafting beautiful
pieces that leave an everlasting mark.
FACETS
UNDER-THE-FINGER RINGS
by Charmaine Tay
A new trend has emerged — a ring worn under your
fingers. It is neither a complete circle nor does it fall off.
We discover these ingenious wonders at the forefront of
contemporary jewellery design.
54
Superstone open ring
made with white mother
of pearl, STEPHEN
WEBSTER
Cosmos Between
the Finger ring with
diamonds and white
mother of pearl set in
pink gold, VAN CLEEF
& ARPELS
Anna May ring with
diamonds set in 18k
white gold, DEBORAH
PAGANI
Ring with black and
white diamonds in 18k
yellow gold, LEYLA
ABDOLLAHI
Bionics ring with a
baroque pearl and
diamond, JEWELLER
JEWELLERY
THEATRE
Butterfly ring with yellow
diamo
and pink diamonds,
MOR
DAVID MORRIS
55
TIMELESS
Supermodel Petra
Němcová models
Chopard's latest Happy
Diamonds Butterflies
collection, including the
purple-hued timepiece
DRESS WATCHES
by Charmaine Tay
Stylish watches for
special occasions
56
one are the days where a watch only told time.Today, it is a prerequisite for a serious
mechanical watch to come with a substantial power reserve, split timer or any other
useful complication. For ladies though, aesthetic remains their first priority.While
form has to match function, there is no single perfect combination. Be it a gala you are
attending or a happy day outdoors, Solitaire introduces several timepieces that best suit the occasion.
Chopard’s Happy Diamonds Butterflies timepiece puts
you in a fun mood.Two butterflies with blue sapphires
for wings, and brown diamonds as bodies, rest
comfortably on the edges of the watch. Another
seven diamonds roam freely between them.The
butterflies gaze towards the dial, while another
diamond butterfly perches gingerly on a purple
mother-of-pearl dial.
Girard-Perregaux invokes fearless energy
through the Cat’s Eye Anniversary watch.To mark
the collection’s 10 years, the timepiece dabbles
with dramatics on its off-centred starburst effect, with
graduating tones from pastel to bright pink sapphires
applied on its mother-of-pearl dial.The watch also comes
in a monochromatic version.
When function and aesthetics start to interfere with each
other, something needs to give. It takes the finely-honed
skills of a master watchmaker to tastefully fuse the two.
Bulgari reworks its tourbillon movement through
various colour schemes in their Berries collection.The
Berries Tourbillon Retrograde Hours tiptoes around
gravity to work its magic in allowing manufacturemade movement on a 240-degree watch face.
The timepiece features a mother-of-pearl dial
surrounded by diamonds and emeralds in full
glory.The self-winding mechanical movement is
encapsulated in an 18k white gold case and counts
more than 111 pieces of gemstones.
Patek Philippe surprises with a haute joaillerie timepiece
in conjunction with their 175th anniversary.The Calatrava
Haute Joaillerie Ref. 4895R holds a secret — behind the
plain-faced dial hides a manual calibre 215 mechanical
movement, visible through its sapphire caseback.Twelve
meticulously applied layers of lacquer form the dial,
contrasting and complementing the 162 baguette-cut
diamonds on its unique wreath. Elegance is exuded
through the use of a rose gold setting.The piece has a
power reserve of 44 hours.
57
TIMELESS
Getting ready for a night out is incomplete without a
stunning timepiece. Flitting from one collection to the
next, Graff turns to the ever-favoured butterfly once
more. Deemed as lucky charms, the brand bears
goodwill to its wearer, with their latest fully-set
bejewelled Butterfly watch. Fuschia, violet,
indigo and cobalt sapphires for butterflies
produce an intense yet seamless gradient
sitting on a pure white diamond field.The
watch runs on a Quartz movement and is
sculpted out of white gold.
A brooch, a pendant, and a bracelet —
Harry Winston’s Ultimate Emerald Signature is
all three.The secret watch casts aside a veil of
diamonds to present the hours and minutes on
a brilliant-cut diamond paved dial. It also mimics
a single emerald-cut diamond by using 255 brilliant-,
baguette-, marquise-, and emerald-cut diamonds —
all set with a transparent gem-setting technique.
Chanel continues to expand its range of J12
watches, with the latest introduction incorporating
the Comète Flying Tourbillon Caliber mechanical
movement.The watch is encased entirely in baguetteand brilliant-cut diamonds, and is set in 18k white
gold. Aesthetics aside, the watch performs as well as
it should, with a power reserve of 40 hours. Only five
pieces are available.
58
THE
HAUTE HORLOGERIE
EXHIBITION IN ASIA
30 SEPTEMBER - 2 OCTOBER 2014
HKCEC - Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre
DESIGN
Earrings from the
Pastilles collection
HERVÉ VAN DER STRAETEN
by Christel Lee
60
Van der Straeten is no
stranger when it comes
to bouncing ideas off
various platforms. He
even uses jewellery as
inspiration for furniture
designs
Necklace from the
Pétale collection
Dangling earrings from
the Hoops collection
All pieces are made with
gilded and hammered
brass
hroughout his career,
Hervé Van der Straeten has
garnered recognition for
his eclectic furniture and
lighting collections. Not only was he inducted
into Knightship at the Order of Arts and
Letters by France's Ministry of Culture, he
also received the Entreprise du Patrimone Vivant
label in 2007 — a mark of recognition in a
French state for excellence in traditional and
industrial skills.
Though designing furniture comes
naturally to Van der Straeten, he also excels
in jewellery design. Taking a sometimes
provocative approach to jewellery making,
such as with his Module earrings and
necklace, Van der Straeten favours contrasting
materials. He says: “24k gold-finished brass
is one of my favourite materials for its
timelessness. I am also keen on luminosity
— purity of crystal and the sensuality of
lacquer.” To some, his approach to design may
come across as old fashioned, as he begins
designing each collection with just a pencil
and notebook. “I develop it, turn it around
[and] play with it in a never-ending flow,” he
says, adding that his ideas are inspired by a
wide range of everyday life, from art to design
and architecture.
Over the years, Van der Straeten has
61
DESIGN
CLOCKWISE FROM
LEFT
A pair of cuffs from the
Facette collection
Dangling earrings
with lacquer from the
Module collection
Necklace from the Bali
collection
Cuff from the Yucata
collection
All pieces are made with
gilded and hammered
brass
worked with fashion designers such as
Thierry Mugler, Christian Lacroix, Lanvin
and Martine Sitbon. One piece that gained
a special place in his heart is the Pétale
necklace in 24k gold-plated brass, which
Cate Blanchett wore to the Dubai Film
Festival in 2013.
Fusing movement and volume to
create unexpected forms, he is fond of
describing his jewellery as both sculptural
and sophisticated. Van der Straeten lists
cut-out and hammering as his two favourite
techniques in jewellery making, giving life
to metal through graphic and bold shapes.
One piece made with this hammered
technique is the Vibration bracelet,
inspired by the beauty of architecture. To
Van der Straeten, women who wear his
pieces are “fun, bright and open-minded”.
Surprisingly, he adds jewellery as the source
of his inspiration for furniture designs.
Both aspects share a common
denominator – luxury. “Luxury is timeless
and a good design lasts forever.”
62
Connecting Global Competence
FEBRUARY 20 – 23, 2015
MESSE MÜNCHEN INTERNATIONAL
INHORGENTA.COM
INHORGENTA-BLOG.COM
FACETS
WAVES
by Christel Lee
Whispering
ering rhythms
aves are raw moving
energy, either calm
like tranquil musings
of nature, or fierce
and relentless. Man is on a never-ending quest
to master them, along with their fluid and
unpredictable rhythm. Solitaire takes a look at
how jewellery designers have interpreted these
endless lines with tasteful creativity.
Antonini’s Vulcano pendant comes full circle
with champagne diamonds set in black rhodium
with 18k yellow gold. Casato’s rose gold earrings
from the Bel Bel collection provides a quiet
statement to complement an off-shoulder dress.
Waskoll lets a lady wear her heart on her sleeve
with an 18k pink gold diamond pendant in
exquisite diamond encrusted waves. D’mond
Prestige’s delicate wave-inspired bracelet
threads diamonds of varying sizes through 18k
rose gold.
CLOCKWISE FROM
TOP
Pendant with diamonds
set in rose gold from the
Parfums du Monde collection, WASKOLL
Vulcano pendant,
ANTONINI
Diamond bracelet,
D’MOND PRESTIGE
Bel Bel earrings,
CASATO
64
I TA LY
Madame Butterfly Collection
Exclusive Dealer for Malaysia Poh Kong Jewellers, Kuala Lumpur
www.moraglione.com
DESIGN
DEHRES
by Charmaine Tai
Family values and unwavering
passion never fail
66
tepping into Dehres’ office
in Hong Kong, one is greeted
by a sense of warmth exuded
by both its interior and
jewellery. Moments later, it makes perfect
sense. Passion and love fuel the familyowned business, which dates back three
generations, which translates into their
jewellery pieces.
Founded in 1985 as Dehres International
Limited, the company started out supplying
diamonds to other jewellery companies,
and continues to do so even till today. Each
rough diamond is shipped to one of their
three facilities in New York, Antwerp and Tel
Aviv for polishing and hand cutting. In 2004,
they renamed themselves as Dehres Limited,
and started to design their own pieces in
major jewellery hubs across France, Italy and
Hong Kong.
This year, the company is focussing on
obtaining fancy rare coloured diamonds.
Their latest collections draw inspiration from
the warmer seasons. The Fancy Color Heart
Shape ring makes the perfect summer-time
cocktail piece, using warm tones of yellow,
orange and pink with subtle hints of green
and brown. A spring-time bloom comes
in the form of a 1.5-carat purplish-pink
CLOCKWISE
FROM LEFT
Radiant-cut diamond
ring with two half
moon-cut diamonds
Fancy Intense Purplish
Pink Diamond ring
with a pink diamond
and pear-shaped white
diamonds
Pear-shaped white
diamond earrings
Fancy Color Heart
Shape ring
Emerald-cut diamond
ring with two modified
bullet diamonds
OPPOSITE
The earrings and
necklace set features
cushion-cut Burmese
sapphires and pearand marquise-cut
white diamonds
diamond, which is surrounded by flower rays
composed of 10 pear-shaped diamonds. The
daisy-shaped ring features an additional 144
diamonds on the shank.
Fancy colours and designs aside, Dehres
also uses special diamond cuts for additional
brilliance. The purplish-pink radiant-cut
diamond ring may total more than 10 carats,
but its two unique half moon-cut diamonds
that flank the sides do not go unnoticed
either. The emerald-cut white diamond ring
garners a fair amount of attention with a
flawlessly-cut diamond totalling 17 carats
resting perfectly on the ring. Two modified
bullet-shaped diamonds provide a twist.
67
FACETS
STARBURST
by Christel Lee
The allure of constellation-inspired
fine jewellery
Planets, suns and stars are the very core of astronomy. Hard-to-fathom stellar
constellations leave us in awe and inspire our dreams and hopes. The sun’s
radiance commands respect, and the moon’s glimmer is often playful — even
mischievious — when darting in and out from behind clouds. Solitaire picks
some favourites from the heavens.
Starlight Starbright is inspired
by the crystalline structure of
snowflakes. This white beauty by
Suen Jewellers is set in 18k white
gold and shines with a round
diamond weighing 0.30 carats
sitting in the middle.
68
Light emits from Boucheron’s
Soleil Radiant necklace, symbolising
the moon’s embrace of the sun.
The piece comprises a mix of cuts
including baguette-, princess- and
brilliant-cut and wraps gently
around the wearer’s neck.
In a collection marked
by subtle greys and
translucent subdued
blues, Ele Karela’s
Polar Star earring is
the offspring of winter.
The earring, as shown
above in three different
angles, shows a 0.47-carat
diamond amidst blue
diamonds. The piece is
finished in 18k white gold.
FACETS
Tiffany & Co. welcomes spring with
their new 2014 Blue Book collection
comprising splashes of colours.
Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger Arrows
cclip features a buffet of amethysts,
sapphires and brilliant-cut diamonds
sa
pierced by 18k gold arrows.
pie
Known for their forte in diamonds, William
Goldberg takes the star a notch higher, and
this time with an exotic twist. The 25-carat
Circus brooch explodes to reveal warm, fancy
coloured diamonds which are set in 18k pink
and white gold.
Selberan’s pride in tradition exudes through
their Songket Reinvented diamond bracelet. Set
in 18k yellow gold, drops of tsavorites, rubies and
diamonds bring life to the piece.
70
FACETS
CHAMELEON DIAMONDS
by Charmaine Tay
Diamonds that mastered
the art of camouflage
Tourmaline andd
chameleon diamond
amond
neckpiece withh alternating yellow and white
diamonds, BOGH-ART
OGH ART
Chopard’s Chameleon
Diamond ring uses
the world’s largest
chameleon diamond
mined to date
72
L
Legend
has it that the Gemological Institute
of America (GIA) had an unusual green
diamond kept in a safe. Upon retrieval, a
di
yellow diamond sat in its place instead. After
ye
a panicked search for the missing green
diamond, it was found that the diamond
di
was never moved. Instead, it experienced a
w
temporary colour change, having been kept in
te
dark storage for a short period of time.
da
Chameleon diamonds make up a
negligible percentage of fancy coloured
diamonds, and its colour-changing properties
make it one of the most sought-after in the
world. Like its namesake, the diamond reacts
to heat and light. Temporary colour changes
range from an intense yellow to a muted
brown shade and can be induced by either
keeping it in a dark storage for at least 24
hours, or through heating.
The largest chameleon diamond ever
mined stands at 31.32 carats and belongs to
Chopard. The Chameleon Diamond ring rests
the diamond in a yellow and brown diamonds
nest set in 18k gold. In one of its creations,
Bogh-Art sets a heart-shaped chameleon
diamond on a neck piece, drawing attention
to it with slices of tourmalines and alternating
white and yellow diamonds.
Though many believe the diamond can be
manipulated, perhaps you can think of it as an
emotional gem that chooses to show you what
it feels.
REVIEW
BASELWORLD 2014
by Nina Hald
Drama and abstraction speak of colossal elegance
Double-sided Cascade
bracelet with 675 white
and 623 black diamonds,
DAMIANI
74
74
FROM LEFT
Bracelets with pavé
diamonds set in
burnished white gold
and red gold, CRIVELLI
Peacock earrings
with silvery clear fire
enamel, diamonds and
aquamarines in 18k white
gold, VICTOR MAYER
Sapphires and diamonds
ring, LEO PIZZO
Haute Couture pendent,
VERSACE
Bracelet with spinels,
tsavorites and diamonds
set in 18k white and
yellow gold, IVY
arge cuffs and
bangles for a dramatic
statement; diamonds
and colourful
gemstones in bespoke
creations — and
butterflies and horses supplemented by
abstract shapes. These were the focal points
of the recently-concluded Baselworld fair
held in Switzerland.
According to the exhibits seen at the
show, bangles are back in a big way — from
the smallest to the largest. The cuffs took
prominence. Named after the size of the
lower part of a shirt sleeve, the large cuff
gives scope for creativity to be unfolded.
Crivelli impressed with cuffs decorated with
Maltese crosses or pyramid studs. Damiani
celebrated the company’s 90th anniversary
with a collection comprising two cuffs; the
double-sided Cascade Art Deco-inspired
piece, dominated by black and white
diamonds, and the Legend bracelet inspired
by the 1940s made in rose gold. IVY’s
bracelets were ruled by gemstones, and Fope
showcased bracelets in three shades of gold.
As lavish ornaments for the fingers and
hands, extraordinary and extravagant rings
were an experience appealing to the luxuryloving ladies. A ring may be extravagant due
to its size, or extraordinary because of its
centre-stone or the placement of the ring on
the finger. It may visually take up an entire
finger, be placed between the fingers, or
over the knuckles. Sectioned
and slender or impressively
massive; this genre of rings
rarely go beyond decorating.
The extravagant rings of 2014
demand a conscious stand from the
woman who wears them – appealing to those
who collect and love jewellery. They also
assert to the statement piece connoisseurs,
with the elegance to wear them. Moraglione
injects a colourful and tenacious spin on
this trend. Versace and Leo Pizzo also rode
on the colour waves with the former using
peridot, rubellite, kunzite and morganite and
the latter, sapphires, rubies and enamel.
75
REVIEW
Candy Flamenco
bracelets in 18k gold,
TAMARA COMOLLI
Pearls make a glamorous entrance.
Lustre gradations of triple As are deep
and tempting, and the shapes are classic
Hollywood all the way. The perfectly round
pearls of Schoeffel showcased rainbow
nuances ranging from pink to silvery blue;
their surfaces gorgeous and flawless, with
breathtaking sizes. When abstraction is
considered perfection, colourful gemstones –
especially blue, green and violet pieces – vie
for the attention of the audience.
Tamara Comolli embraces her inner
child with Flamenco bracelets that
mimic the contents of a candy shop,
while Jewellery Theatre takes to
blue corals for inspiration.Victor
Mayer held a definite trump, letting
enamel expand the palette of the
stones. Moraglione surpassed many
with their strong grip on cabochoncut gems, counterpointed by smaller
faceted gemstones pavé set. IVY let the
silhouettes of the diverse faceted gemstones
determine the overall shape of each piece of
abstract jewellery, whether necklace, ring or
earrings.
76
Ping Pong rings with
pearl and diamonds
in white gold; Ballets
Russes earrings with
diamonds and pearls,
SCHOEFFEL
Corals ring with 16
sapphires and 37
diamonds in white
gold, JEWELLERY
THEATRE
Wild Rose bracelets in
rose, white, and yellow
gold, FOPE
A necklace and
earrings suite with 1042
multicoloured diamonds
set in yellow gold;
SCHREINER FINE
JEWELLERY
Just like the coloratura of a soprano aria by
Mozart, using diamond pavé on jewellery
creations was also the highlight. Delightful
embellishments with luxurious finishing
touches translate to pure virtuosity, elevating
a piece into the stratosphere of jewellery.
Pavé is a time-consuming setting
technique where small diamonds are set
so closely together that no metal shows,
much like a ‘wall-to-wall’ effect of dazzling
diamonds. In this genre, Crivelli, Damiani,
Palmiero and Schreiner Fine Jewellery
all excelled. Palmiero also showcased
outstanding stone-setting competence in
their Canvas collection.
During the fair, unique creations dazzled
with their aesthetics and none more so
than Schreiner Fine Jewellery. The power
of beauty lies in its ability to attract and
enchant, shifting a creation to poetic and
imaginary dimensions. The high jewellery
represents an important contribution to
the heritage and traditions of the craft —
personifying ongoing cultural exchanges
between a selected clientèle and that of the
most prestigious companies.
77
REVIEW
Africa necklace with a
cabochon-cut jewel,
NANIS
Butterfly ring with
diamonds,
MORAGLIONE
Contrarié ring with
diamonds and heartshaped pink sapphires
in 18k gold, ZYDO
The three most important jewellery motifs
this year are the horse, the butterfly and the
heart. The heart is one of the oldest motifs in
the visual arts; referencing both the human
anatomy and symbolising everlasting love.
Schoeffel combined the hearts with pearls,
a match made in Heaven. Nanis took to
Africa’s scorching heat to design pieces that
exude a woman’s passion and drive for life.
Just like the heart may give a delicate flutter,
so did butterflies at IVY, Moraglione and
Schreiner Fine Jewellery.
2014 being the Year of the Horse; magical
unicorns, the Greek mythological winged
horse Pegasus and the finest bred Arabian
race horses of superb speed and beauty all
made guest appearances. Legend has it that
people born in the Year of the Horse handle
money well. Additionally, they have wisdom
and possess great artistic talent. They would
be the keen audience for Schreiner’s Arabic
Horses collection. In president Gerhard
Schreiner’s own words: “The supreme
elegance, the pride and independence of
these animals are a source of inspiration
for any artist. As a symbol of strength and
speed, horses fascinate us.”
78
AMBER LOUNGE THE
ORIGINAL F1 LIFESTYLE
EXPERIENCE RETURNS
20/21 SEPTEMBER 2014
[email protected]
www.amber-lounge.com
+65 93 20 22 00
DESIGN
FLOWER DIAMOND
by Koh Chuin Ying
Flower motif earrings
with tanzanites, from the
Red Carpet collection
Bracelet with marquise-,
heart- and square-cut
diamonds
OPPOSITE PAGE
Chua is a certified
gemologist who saw
the rising trend for
minimalism in jewellery
design
80
lower Diamond
Boutique owner
Belinda Chua has
been casting her
modish brand of elegant minimalism into
jewellery making for almost 20 years now.
As Managing Director, Chua works tirelessly
to rejuvenate the art of creating jewellery
by adding her own twists and turns to the
brand’s timeless designs. They are often
inspired by her own discerning taste for
sophistication, femininity and simplicity.
Her strive is simply derived from the
satisfaction of her clients. “When my
customers wear jewellery, I want them to
look good and feel good,” Chua says.
A certified gemologist, she started out
organising trade shows and hosting private
events for top jewellers for 14 years. Finally,
in 2006, she founded her own boutique to
realise her distinct vision for stunning and
original creations.
Starting out, Chua became aware of
an emerging market for minimalism in
jewellery design. By being directly involved
in the design process, the boutique was
subsequently conceptualised to cater to
that demand, carving a niche for itself as a
purveyor of contemporary yet classic haute
joaillerie.
One of the brand’s first collections,
Circle of Friendship, was a reflection of
women and the brand’s signature aesthetic.
Each piece featured circular compositions
symbolising the unbreakable bonds of
friendship between women and was crafted
to distinctively imitate the natural curves of
the female silhouette.
Another collection, Eclipse, aptly made
use of black and white diamonds, playing
81
DESIGN
up the effect of darkness and light to
complement and enhance the designs. More
recent selections include a Rainbow Ring
collection of slim, colourful bands accented
with champagne, yellow or black diamonds,
as well as a Secret Garden collection
inspired by butterflies, flowers and the
colours of nature that come in an assortment
of statement rings, earrings and bangles with
rose-cut sapphires and diamonds set in 18k
gold.
Their latest collection, Red Carpet,
presents chandelier earrings, necklaces and
cocktail rings embellished with rose- and
full-cut diamonds. Each handcrafted piece
is set in 18k yellow, white or rose gold, with
either tanzanites, rubies, emeralds or yellow
diamonds. Paying tribute to Hollywood’s
grand dames, the collection celebrates both
the allure of the leading ladies and their
glamorous styles.
Having just celebrated its 17th year
anniversary, Flower Diamond Boutique
underwent a revamp of its boutique and
added several international jewellery
brands like Damaso and Palmiero to their
portfolio. The brand has also recently added
an in-house service that specialises in
commissioned bespoke jewellery. With its
success, the boutique has made a name for
itself both locally and internationally, even
attracting high-profile clients which include
royals and celebrities like Mariah Carey,
Janet Jackson and Hilary Swank.
There is an old French proverb, á bon vin
point d’enseigne, which roughly translates
as ‘good wine does not need a label’ — the
reputation precedes it. Concordantly, Flower
Diamond distinguishes discerning women
from women who simply wear fine jewellery:
the former are women who recognise true
luxury and quality beyond price tags.
FFROM
FR
OM
M TOP
TO
Emerald-cut
Emer
Em
eral
aldd-cu
c t diamond
cu
diam
di
amon
ond
earrings
earr
ea
ringss
Fancy-coloured
diamond ring in 18k gold
Cushion-cut fancycoloured
l
d diamond
d
d ring
with two diamonds
flanking its side
Flower Diamond
Boutique also designs
classic diamond rings in
various cuts
Heart-shaped emerald
earrings with diamonds
82
Join the Ulitmate
Luxury Jewellery
Show of Asia
Cultivating over a decade of
fine jewellery aficionados,
this luxurious exhibition will dazzle
up Orchard Road, the heart of
Singapore’s prime shopping district,
from 17th to 26th October 2014.
For more information on
Singapore JewelFest 2014 and
participation, please contact
us at tel: +65 6738 0891 or
email: [email protected]
TIMELESS
BASELWORLD WATCHES
by Jonathan Ho
Millefiori flowers and creative
complications at Baselworld
84
witzerland’s last winter chills provided a stark contrast to
the warmth and lively chatter in the halls of Baselworld
2014.The six halls provided exhibitors with generous
space to get creative with their booth designs.The
mantra, ‘Fortune favours the bold’ certainly rang true this year, as each
brand showcased novelties and ingenious creations, and once again,
raised the bar of the show.
Walking through each hall, one could see that brands pointed
their focus once more on the classic diamond.Yet it’s only through
the finest craftsmanship that a seemingly emotionless jewel turns into
something that ladies love. Having mastered the art of horology, players
demonstrated their commitment to producing the finest and rarest.
Solitaire looks at some diamond-studded show stoppers.
Rarely has there ever been such a fine pairing of
haute horlogerie and joaillerie. Ensconced within
an 18k white gold egg-shaped case, Breguet’s Reine
de Naples Jour/Nuit 8999 embodies the essence of
bejewelled magnificence.The poetic complication
receives a gem-encrusted treatment; the bezel and
case band are lined with 131 baguette-cut diamonds,
and the flange, covered in 73 brilliant-cut diamonds.
Even the attachment isn’t spared, paved with a
frosting of 35 brilliant-cut diamonds.Two dials merge
to form a figure 8, and paints a blue lapis lazuli sky.
The moonphase is completed with a titanium moon,
gold stars, and a balance wheel taking the place of the
sun.To seal the deal, a briolette diamond sits atop the
crown.The timepiece has a power reserve of 57 hours.
Galloping Horse offers a striking combination of an
18k pink gold case and a brown crocodile leather
strap.The piece is kept simple, with just an image
of a horse on the dial.The dial uses an unlikely
material for a watch — wood. Yet it works perfectly,
providing a meadow for the equine, also made with
carefully-cut wooden fragments of varying shades.
Three brilliant-cut diamonds mark the seven, eight
and nine o’clock, and the piece is finished with
diamonds set on the bezel and lugs.
85
TIMELESS
One is immediately drawn to the applied opalin
arabesque decoration, spread across Bedat &
Co’s 36.5-mm timepiece.The dial swirls in a
coordinated frenzy with grey mother of pearl,
and boasts six diamonds which take the place of
odd-numbered hour markers. Blue-steeled hands
provide the burst of contrast on the watch that is
paved with 151 diamonds totalling 1.464 carats on
the bezel and crown guard.The watch comes with
a power reserve of 42 hours.
The joy of receiving a bouquet and their fleeting bloom is a source of inspiration and a reminder of the never
ending pace of life. Hermes’ Arceau Millefiori mimics a crystallised bloom, blending the fields of watchmaking and
glassmaking. A time-consuming art performed by gatherers at Cristalleries Royales de Saint-Louis, a monochrome
crystal sprue is dipped in coloured crystal or enamel, then twirled into canes filled with the ‘millefiori’ motif. One by
one, these canes are added in varying hues and eventually transcend the individual motifs of their original design. Cut
into small 10-mm portions, this bed of flowers form the dial.White diamonds on the bezel finish this timepiece.
86
One should not make the mistake of assuming that
Patek Philippe’s pride in haute horlogerie comes at
the expense of their mastery of haute joaillerie. At
Baselworld 2014, the Maison’s “Aquatic Life” timepiece
demonstrates their skill in superlative gem-setting.
Fully paved with diamonds totaling 43.73 carats,
Top Wesselton baguette-cut diamonds set the stage
for a dance of light with blue-hued sapphire fishes,
a clear-water illusion made possible with the most
challenging of artisanal jewel crafts — invisible setting.
All stones are set seamlessly, held only by a delicate
gold clip secured to a narrow groove on an underside
facet of each baguette. Driving the lavish timepiece is a
manufacture hand-wound calibre 16-250 with roundchambered and polished bridges.
Harry Winston believed that beauty is endless. Indeed,
unrestrained creativity has allowed the marque endless
bounds of imagination required to birth the Avenue
C Precious Marquetry. A palette of freshwater,Tahitian,
solid pink, white and beaded mother of pearl forms the
shimmery marquetry, imbuing the Art Deco tank watch
with geometric motif that while modern, reminds one of
the 1920s Great Gatsby era of swank.The dial is graced
with 44 brilliant-cut diamonds creating an emeraldshaped chapter ring, which, in essence, creates two
works of marquetry.The white gold case is decorated
with 43 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 1.57 carats.
87
TIMELESS
This piece is no light weight, yet
precious and delicately set peacock
feathers on a dial — framed by 120
brilliant-cut diamonds totaling 0.71
carats — set Corum apart from the usual
painted enamel dials. Plumasserie, or
feather art, sees the watch maker sorting
and picking each feather by hand, and
then meticulously positioned and hand
cut for the desired effect.The 39-mm
watch is finished in 18k red gold and
has a power reserve of 42 hours.
88
Blancpain marries aesthetics and technology in their
latest ladies’ watch. From afar, it appears that the 108
diamonds simply surround the bezel, but a closer look
reveals interwoven rows of diamonds in various sizes,
echoing the double-stepped case design. Additional
diamonds are sprinkled on the blue mother-of-pearl
dial, with a wave separating the brand’s signature offcentered hours and minutes subdial and retrograde
30-second indication.The timepiece features
Blancpain’s new 226-part self-winding movement
Calibre 2663SR which moves at a rate of 28,800
vibrations per hour. A sapphire crystal caseback allows
a view of the Côtes de Genève finish, along with the
oscillating weight shaped like a five-petal flower.
A refreshing statement in a sea of extravagant
watches comes in the form of the DeVille
Prestige Butterfly timepiece. Silhouettes of
butterflies in mid-flight adorn the matte white
mother-of-pearl dial. Alternating brilliantcut diamonds and red gold Roman numeral
markers surround the face, complete with a
small-date display at the six o’clock.The watch,
powered by Omega’s Co-Axial calibre 2500, is
encased in an 18k red gold bezel, with pockets
to hold individual diamonds.The piece is
finished in a white satin-brushed strap.
89
REVIEW
THE IMPOSSIBLE COLLECTION OF JEWELRY
by Charmaine Tai
A collection of legendary jewellery pieces
from the 20th century
From its simple origin as a weave of crawlers, leaves and flowers, the tiara
became a symbol of female power and wealth. The Ice Frost was designed
by Chaumet in 1904, a time when tiaras were worn only by noble women
at official functions. Made for Louis Cesar, an influential senator of his time,
it was subsequently presented to his daughter-in-law as a wedding gift.
The form-fitting head jewel bears resemblance of a collection of stalactites
in a cave. White diamonds of various sizes form the icicles, while pear-cut
diamonds make up the water droplets. The piece is set in platinum and gold.
90
mportant and meaningful
jewellery pieces almost
always come with a rich and
colourful story. The Impossible Collection Of
Jewelry features 100 of those, with no two
pieces sharing the same narrative. Jewellery
historian Vivienne Becker, together with a
team of renowned experts, take a close look at
them to discover their enduring relevance and
timeless appeal. It is said that “for a jewel to
be truly timeless, it must embody the essence
of its moment in time”, and this rings true in
each page of the book. We take a look at some
of the pieces and discover how they were, and
still are, relevant till today.
Daisy Fellowes was a celebrated 20th-century
society figure, acclaimed beauty, novelist and
poet. Once the Paris editor of Harper’s Bazaar,
America, Fellowes often wore bracelets on
both wrists. Her extensive travel cemented
her fascination with Indian art and culture,
which she incorporated into her life. Fellowes
commissioned Van Cleef & Arpels to design
this bracelet in 1926 with diamonds of various
cuts and dangling emerald beads. In 1928, she
asked to create a second bracelet, which could
be clasped together with the first to form a
collar neckpiece.
Cartier designed the Patiala necklace in 1928
for Bhupinder Singh, an Indian nobleman. It
comprised five diamond-encrusted platinum
chains, two tassels, and seven large diamonds,
each ranging between 18 and 73 carats. A
total of 2,930 diamonds were used, including
a 234.65-carat yellow De Beers diamond,
bringing the weight of the necklace to nearly
1,000 carats. The necklace disappeared some
20 years later, and was only discovered 50
years later by Cartier in a poor condition
with the De Beers diamond and other stones
missing. The image shows the necklace after
restoration by Cartier, using a replica of the
original De Beers diamond.
91
REVIEW
María Félix was a Mexican movie star
with a penchant for exotic pets when
living in Paris. In 1968, she commissioned
a diamond serpent necklace from
Cartier. In 1975, Félix gave Cartier a
baby crocodile in a jar, requesting that a
necklace be made in the likeness of the
reptile. Cartier agreed, and went on to
produce a collar neckpiece using yellow
diamonds totalling 60.02 carats and
1,000 emeralds totaling 66.86 carats, as
the reptile’s dorsal scales. A catch at the
back of the tail allowed the crocodiles to
be separated and worn as brooches. This
piece later became part of Félix’s identity
and persona.
Joel Arthur Rosenthal, a Parisian jeweller better
known as JAR, designed this contemporary
brooch incorporating remnants of the past. The
brooch features bright petals of an iris flower,
using an ombré shade of pavé-set caramel
diamonds and fire opals. A separate piece, a
fallen petal from winter mimics a crushed leaf’s
state, browning at its edges.
92
Unlike most other extraordinary pieces of jewellery, this ring was not commissioned
by a client. Russian-born Alexandre Reza, free from the expectations of a client,
designed a simple yet extravagant ring that focussed on the centerpiece, a 52-carat
untreated intense Burmese sapphire. Over 100 diamonds were used to support the
ring set in platinum and gold.
The Wrapped Heart brooch was a Valentine’s
Day gift for a Palm Beach socialite in 1949.
Iconic Sicilian designer Fulco di Verdura
used his signature criss-cross diamond
strings to enclose a plump heart made of
cabochon rubies of various sizes, all set in
18k gold. The brooch reflected Verdura’s
remarkable sense of humour — a jewellery
piece that looked gift wrapped, complete
with diamond ribbons and bows.
Bird on a Rock was originally designed to
have an aquamarine as the centerpiece, but
was later adapted to fit a 128.54-carat yellow
diamond. The ruby-eyed bird with gold
crowns on its head makes for an interesting
brooch. Yet it is the cushion-cut diamond
clutched in its claws that stands out. The
diamond itself was once worn by Audrey
Hepburn, as part of a ribbon necklace used
for publicity photos for the movie Breakfast
at Tiffany’s.
All images courtesy of Assouline
93
TIMELESS
CHRISTOPHE CLARET
by Christel Lee
w
e will never know for sure what made
an iconic maker of complicated
men’s watches venture into the
minefield of love. Yet, that is what Christophe Claret
has decided to do. Founded by its namesake 25 years
ago on the Neuchatel mountain region, the brand is
now exploring uncharted territory and reinterprets one
of time’s hidden meanings.
At Baselworld 2014, Christophe Claret unveiled
their latest complication, their first one specifically
designed for the fairer sex. Margot, a beautifully
finished daisy-themed complication, features a unique
and intelligent vision of love, a play on how a lady
in love may pluck petals to answer a question that
can never be fully answered — how does her man
of choice feel about her? Margot attempts to present
answers.
The timepiece features a blue mother-of-pearl dial
with verses of Victor Hugo’s Unité poem inscribed
on it. Twelve white, satin-lacquered titanium petals
encircling a yellow sapphire pistil appear and
disappear randomly at the press of a pusher at
the two o’clock position. Shedding its petals to an
accompanying crystalline chime, calligraphic letters
positioned at the four and seven o’clock positions
reveal one’s amount of affection varying from pas du
tout — French for not at all — to à la folie, meaning
madly.
The dial is completed with pear-shaped diamonds
for hour markers. A band of 68 baguette-cut diamonds
totalling 5.2 carats circle around the white gold bezel.
The timepiece’s lugs aren’t spared either, a small
hexagonal diamond sits inconspicuously at the top lug.
Keeping in mind that ladies love to have options,
the watch manufacture has designed three other
versions; Margot is also available in rose gold, and each
colour comes with a choice of either baguette-cut or
snow-set diamonds.
Completed with a white alligator wrist strap, the
timepiece gives new meaning to wearing your heart on
your sleeve.
94
VICENZA
SEPT 06 – 10, 2014
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I N T E R N AT I O N A L J E W E L L E RY S H O W
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KNOWLEDGE
ASIA’S AUCTION TRENDS
by Katrina Balmaceda
ColouredS tars
Playful but elegant gems grab the limelight in Asia’s auctions
96
Pinkish rubies with
diamonds set in a ring
A red spinel ring
Images courtesy of
Tiancheng International
Rivière diamond
necklace
A pair of brilliant-cut
diamond earrings totalling 7.09 carats
A gentleman’s sapphire
ring
Images courtesy of
Bonhams
OPPOSITE PAGE
Vintage gold and diamond clutch, CARTIER
Image courtesy of
Bonhams
ome moments in history have
ve
shown that gems can compel
el
men into action more than
words or allegiances can.
One such precious stone, discovered in
the possession of a murdered prince in
the mid-14th century, was claimed by thee
murderer, a Castilian royal. As if by karma,
a,
the Castilian king fell under siege later,
and only avoided defeat with the help of
an English prince who demanded that
gemstone in exchange. That stone, red,
bead-shaped and weighing 170 carats, is
the centrepiece of the English monarchy’s
crown. Known throughout history as the
Black Prince’s Ruby, it was identified in
modern times to actually be a spinel.
This is not the only significant spinel
to have been famously and mistakenly
identified as a ruby over the centuries.
As a result, the refractive stone has
garnered interest among gem and
jewellery collectors. This year’s spring
auction by Hong Kong-based Tiancheng
International Auctioneer Ltd features
a 39.24-carat Natural Untreated Pamir
Spinel And Diamond ring, estimated to
fetch HKD3.5– 4.5 million (USD450,000–
580,000).
As a hard stone, spinel is great for
setting in rings, and further appeals with
its rarity and brilliance. But another
reason it is becoming an auction favourite
is that its price has “yet to reach levels
of ‘extreme’ inflation”, according to
Stewart Young, director of Tiancheng
International’s jewellery department. Thus,
they “present an excellent risk-reward
profile relative to many other investment
options” — especially when sold at
auctions, as auctioned jewellery usually
offers high resale value.
This, of course, has not dampened the
demand for rubies in the auction scene,
especially with Myanmar, a rich source
for the stone, opening up to the global
market. Appetite for this gem is high in
Asia, with Young noting strong interest in
India. In fact, two of the three lots most
favoured by potential buyers at Tiancheng
International’s spring auction feature
the stone: a 15.07-carat Natural Unheated
Burmese (Mogok) Ruby and Diamond ring
notable for its rare and coveted ‘pigeon’s
blood’ hue and estimated to fetch HKD1115 million (USD1.4-1.95 million); and a
25.49-carat Natural Unheated Burmese Star
Ruby, Ruby and Diamond ring that boasts a
luminous star on its cabochon and has an
estimate of HKD2–3 million (USD260,000–
390,000).
On the other end of the colour
spectrum is the emerald, which is ever
more appealing to Asian auctioneers and
buyers, according to Graeme Thompson,
director of jewellery for Asia at Bonhams
(Hong Kong) Ltd. “[Emerald] prices
97
KNOWLEDGE
increased by approximately 25 per cent last
year and it is expected that this year will
see rises of another 15 to 20 per cent,” he
says. This is partially caused by depleting
supplies in the famous Chivor and Muzo
mines in Colombia, along with aggressive
marketing by natural-resources company
Gemfields. Thompson believes that if
demand for emeralds explodes in the near
future, those sourced from Colombia and
Zambia may increase in price — a good tip
for those now hunting for high returns.
Even as attention turns to unusual but
less costly gems — for instance, Thompson
98
expects to see more use of spinel, amethyst
and topaz on the retail side — the classics,
such as colourless diamonds, coloured
diamonds, sapphires and jade, remain
among the top draw. In November 2012,
Bonhams Hong Kong sold a 43.16-carat
Sapphire And Diamond ring by Van Cleef
& Arpels. The sapphire, described by
Jacques Arpels as “perfectly crystalline” and
“flawless” when he purchased it in 1969,
broke the world record for a Sri Lankan
sapphire in selling for USD36,000 per carat.
In autumn 2012, Tiancheng International
sold a Rare Jadeite Necklace of Twenty-Three
Beads for HKD106.2 million, setting a new
world auction record for a piece of jadeite
jewellery at the time.
Young says that aside from the quality
of a stone, including its size, rarity and
the absence of treatment, a good design
that enhances the main stone of a piece of
jewellery can increase its value. Young also
advises paying attention to the issue date
of an item’s certificate — if certification
was done many years or decades ago,
it might not reflect the piece’s current
condition. And like the Black Prince’s Ruby’s
provenance, everyone loves a good story —
proven with paperwork, of course.
CLOCKWISE FROM
TOP LEFT
Diamond bracelet with
a floral motif, VAN
CLEEF & ARPELS
Necklace with jadeite
beads and diamonds
Images courtesy of
Bonhams
Ring with a Sri Lankan
Cat’s Eye Chrysoberyl
centrepiece
Image courtesy of
Tiancheng International
STYLE
PHOTOGRAPHY: ALWIN OH STYLIST: SERENE SEOW
MAKEUP & NAILS: ELAIN LIM HAIR: EDWARD CHONG MODEL: EBONY LEE FROM UPFRONT
100
Sophia Loren earrings,
Eden ring and Flou
necklace with diamonds
set in white gold,
DAMIANI
Petite Fleur High
Jewellery watch in 18k
yellow gold with 258
diamonds, BREGUET
Netted silk dress,
GUCCI
101
STYLE
Bubbles earrings and
necklace with rose-cut
diamonds set in 18k white
gold, FLOWER
DIAMOND
Coil bracelet with
diamonds set in 18k white
gold, DAMASO BY
FLOWER DIAMOND
Roger Dubuis Excalibur 36
in steel with a diamond
bezel, ROGER DUBUIS
Pleated cotton dress,
BOTTEGA VENETA
102
Brilliant-cut diamond
earrings, necklace, ring
and bracelet totalling 49.92cts, LARRY
JEWELRY
Ref. 7071G-001 set with
diamonds in white gold,
PATEK PHILIPPE
Tiered silk chiffon shift
dress, FENDI
103
STYLE
Necklace with round
brilliant diamonds and
a 5.5 carat oval-cut
centrepiece; Ring with 10
carat oval-cut diamond,
DEGEM
Petite Heure Minute 35
mm Mother-Of-Pearl,
JAQUET DROZ
Knitted dress, FENDI
104
Diamond necklace, ring,
and bracelet, FLOWER
DIAMOND
Ladies' Royal Oak
Offshore Quartz with a
diamond bezel in stainless steel, AUDEMARS
PIGUET
Silk and tulle long dress,
DIOR
105
STYLE
Pear-cut drop earrings,
fancy-cut necklace, pearand marquise-cut tennis
bracelet, all set in 18k
white gold, LA PUTRI
Arceau Ecuyère timepiece
with a diamond bezel and
crown, HERMÉS
Neoprene dress, DKNY
106
Ear cuff and big star
pendant, both set with
diamonds, YULI FINE
JEWELLERY
Mouvement Inversé Serti
Neige with a snow-set
inverted movement
and 409 diamonds,
BLANCPAIN
Silk blouse and flare skirt,
MARNI
107
ATELIER GALAS
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108
telier
GALAS
In Retrospect
A vision of the past and present
Audemars Piguet celebrated six new iterations of the Royal Oak
Offshore 42mm at Asiatique collections in Dempsey, Singapore on 6
May. With more than 150 attendees gathered, including Mr Oliviero
Bottinelli, managing director of Audemars Piguet, Asia and like-minded
Ferrari owners, the celebrations were carried out through the week
over several nights. Nicknamed The Beast, guests learnt about its 20-year
revolutionary heritage through an exhibition of 37 unique retrospective
timepieces. While a DJ spun upbeat tracks, guests were treated to
cocktails, an assortment of cheeses and a sumptuous light spread.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP
An assortment of cheeses for guests to enjoy; (L-R): Andrew Teo, Angela Ng, Chin and Oliviero
Bottinelli; Sam Tay, Wayne Ng, Glenn Yuen and Paul Jeff Clemmons; Astrid Wardana and Wendi
Chan; Tatiana Alleva, Celina Lin, Chin Bottinelli and Stella O’Brien; Audemars Piguet at Asiatique
Collections, Dempsey; Oliviero Bottinelli unveils the new Royal Oak Offshore 42mm iterations
110
GALAS
Novelty Night
The art of horology
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s 2014 novelties which focused on Métiers d’Art was
brought to town after making its debut at the last Salon International
de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH). As per annual tradition, enthusiasts and
friends of the brand shared a horological evening with the Manufacture,
including Alexis de Laporte, managing director of South East Asia &
Australia of Jaeger-LeCoultre. The highlight of the night was a showcase
of the new timepieces — presented at The Flutes Bar & Restaurant in
the National Museum of Singapore — the Master Grande Tradition
Tourbillon Cylindrique à Quantieme Perpetuel, Master Grande Tradition
à Quantieme Perpetual 8 Days Skeleton and Master Email Grand Feu.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP
(L-R): Eddie Sng, Jeffrey Sim, Alethea Tan, Ada Loo and Joseph Koo; Alexis de Laporte, Han
Chi Teng and Kelly Han; Vincent and Priscilla Ang; Alexis de Laporte, Dirk Janssen and Harry
Tan; The Flutes Bar & Restaurant, National Museum of Singapore; Pauline Wong, Peter Chong,
Tan Kee Siew and Pishu Mahtani
112
LET
CERTIFY YOUR GEMS
GIT proudly presents the new
Gemstone Memo
GIT, The utmost advanced Gem and Precious Metal Testing Laboratory in
Thailand, is recognized by CIBJO (The World Jewellery Confederation)
and also a member of LMHC and ICA, we are well equipped with the
world's most advanced instruments operated by highly experienced
gemologists.
Come and See us…
140 ITF – Tower, Silom Road, Bangkok 10500 Thailand
Tel: (662) 634 4999 Fax: (662) 634 4970 Website: http://www.git.or.th E-mail: [email protected]
GALAS
Breaking Peaks
A toast to the future
Bulgari celebrates 130 years of history this year, pulling out
all the stops to host the grandest events in different parts of
the world. The latest took place in the Houston Museum of
Natural Science for the BVLGARI: 130 Years of Masterpieces
gala. The exhibition was one of the most extensive events
held, and featured the Heritage collection, along with
pieces from the late Elizabeth Taylor’s personal collection.
Apart from admiring the jewellery, guests were treated to a
selection of cocktails, hors d’oeurves and a Mediterraneaninfused Italian dinner. Special guests included Naomi Watts,
who wore a double-coiled diamond and emerald Serpenti
necklace, Lynn Wyatt who paired a diamond necklace with
bracelets, and Joanne King Herring who paraded a set of
necklace and earrings with diamonds, sapphires, peridots
and milky quartzes.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP
(L-R): Veronica Bulgari, Naomi Watts, Greggory Burk and Becca Cason Thrash;
Christina Girard and Nicola Bulgari; Isabel David; Naomi Watts and Lynn
Wyatt; Joanne King Herring
114
GALAS
Diamond Jubilee
Scaling new heights in the jewellery industry
The Singapore Jewellers Association hosted a gala commemorating
its 75th anniversary at the Grand Copthorne Waterfront Hotel with
500 guests. Mr. Lee Yi Shyan, Senior Minister of State for Trade and
Industry graced the event with an opening address and a small feat
in sand drawing — completing the illustration with four Chinese
words which translated to ‘scaling new heights’. Founded in 1939
and was first known as the Chinese Gold and Silver Merchants
Association of Singapore, it was officially renamed as the Singapore
Jewellers Association in 1980. A new corporate logo also marked a new
beginning and journey for the jewellery industry in Singapore.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP
(L-R): President of the Federation of Goldsmiths and Jewellers Associations of Malaysia, Siow Der
Ming with Ho Nai Chuen, president of the Singapore Jewellers Association; Siow Der Ming, Datuk
Ng Yih Pyng and Suresh Hathiramani; Julia Tan, Loke Hui Ying, Jasmine Loh and Jessie Foo; Ho Nai
Chuen with Mr. Lee Yi Shyan; Joseph Hong, Tan Kai Hoe, Ko Lee Meng, Teo Yong Ping, Ho Nai
Chuen, Mr. Lee Yi Shyan, Anthony Tan, Sam Lew, Thomas Ng, Ching Kwang Meng, Tan Chin Koon
116
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WWW.FACE
WW.FACEBOOK.SOLITAIREINDONESIA.COM
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Telp : +6221 3199 1193, Email : [email protected]
GALAS
Looking Through
The Glass
Crystal and diamonds on display
Lalique’s cool, stylish boutique at Mandarin Gallery threw
a warm welcome to its guests during the launch of the
Soulmates jewellery collection. The cocktail reception
invited guests to admire the crystal sculpture displays and
mobile jewellery displays in the form of parading models
who wore neutral colours. The Soulmates collection
celebrated their Art Deco heritage, and also tapped back
into Réne Lalique’s support of the Art Nouveau movement.
A four-piece crystal architecture collection designed in
collaboration with renowned architect, Zaha Hadid was also
displayed in the boutique.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP
(L-R): Lynn Park, Feza Erdamar and Melissa Toms; Koh Mui Keng and Regional
Director of Southeast Asia and Oceania, Daniel Ong; Jean Lim and Lim Hen
Jia; Lisa Voon, Yuki Lange, Patrick Macmahon, James See and Kristina
Macmahon; Model adorned with Soulmates jewellery
118
REVIEW
MALAYSIA INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY
FESTIVAL 2014
by Charmaine Tay
Fine jewellery connoisseurs
congregate at MIJ 2014
120
he recent Malaysia
International Jewellery
(MIJ) Festival — Spring
Edition took place over four days from
18 to 21 April. Held at the Kuala Lumpur
Convention Centre, exhibitors hailed from
over 20 countries, including Hong Kong,
Japan, Cambodia and Russia. In 1997,
the show topped the country’s Book of
Records as the ‘Biggest Jewellery Exhibition
in Malaysia’. MIJ has also earned the
support of government bodies, namely the
Malaysia Tourism Promotion Board, the
Malaysia Convention & Exhibition Bureau
(MyCEB) and the Malaysia External Trade
Development Corporation (MATRADE). The
grand opening ceremony on the first night
was graced by Datin Seri Utama Puan Sri
Dato’ Seri Hajah Noor Suzanna Abdullah
Toh Puan Bendahara Kedah and Datuk Seri
Dr. Ng Yen Yen.
With the abolishment of import taxes
since 2011, MIJ aims to boost the country’s
jewellery industry and simultaneously
entice more international jewellers to
showcase their designs. Russian-based
Moiseikin presented their fine sculptures
and transforming jewellery. Drop of Oil is a
one-of-a-kind sculpture entirely crafted out
of dolerite. The piece, which took two years
to complete, looks like its namesake, with its
black mass dropping into a golden wave of
diamonds, emeralds, sapphires, rubies, black
pearl, smoky quartz, jasper, silver and gold.
With 2,260 facets on its surface, Drop of Oil
Jade pieces,
PERSONAL DESIGN
JEWELLERY; (L-R)
Connie Soh of MIJ
Exhibition, Datin Seri
Utama Puan Sri Dato’
Seri Hajah Noor Suzanna
Abdullah Toh Puan
Bendahara Kedah and
Datuk Seri Dr. Ng Yen
Yen; The Moiseikin booth
drawing a crowd; Drop of
Oil, MOISEIKIN
symbolises the importance of oil to mankind
and mineral deposits in gemstones.
Regional brands also came forward
in support. Hong Kong-based J.P. Cam
International presented an elaborate —
albeit slightly dark — flower brooch and
pendant. A Tahitian pearl lies at the centre
of the petals in place of a typical flower’s
reproductive organs, which is linked to the
petals embedded with blue sapphires. Its
stem is represented by a connected chain
of small ‘leaves’ and another Tahitian pearl.
Renee Jewellers from United Arab Emirates
reached out to the connoisseurs of classic
design with a simple cocktail ring. On
the same green note, Personal Design
Jewellery showcased intricate jade
creations that incorporated diamonds
and pearls.
OPPOSITE, FROM
LEFT
Poppy Dream
transformable earrings
with rubellites,
tourmalines, rubies,
diamonds and
demantoid, MOISEIKIN;
Cocktail ring, RENEE
JEWELLERS;
Flower brooch and
pendant, J.P. CAM
INTERNATIONAL
121
HOROSCOPE
Trilliant Gemini
diamond ring,
BOODLES
A BIMONTHLY FORECAST
by Olive Cuenca
Cancer
Capricorn
You’ve taken that much needed vacation and
you are left wanting for more. Don’t worry, it’s
natural and everyone experiences the same
thing. Make plans for the next one and jazz it
up with fresh activities that will give you sunny
memories to last longer than your previous
holiday. Be inspired by the beach colours of
turquoise and emerald.
You are in the final stretch of solving
that seemingly uncrackable dilemma.
Be observant and trust your instincts.
Persistence pays, keep calm and push
forward. Luck is sure to come, and perhaps
sooner than expected. Red gemstones will
give you an extra push of boldness.
(21 JUNE – 22 JULY)
(22 DECEMBER – 19 JANUARY)
Aquarius
Leo
(20 JANUARY – 18 FEBRUARY)
Get ready for another busy social calendar,
but be mindful to not exhaust yourself.
You don’t have to attend every single event,
though sometimes you feel like being
omnipresent. It’s good to let your hair down
at parties but remember to use them as
platforms to build meaningful connections.
Let emeralds guide you.
(23 JULY - 22 AUGUST)
A daring spirit will always crave for new
experiences. If the adventure bug bites you
and you can’t figure out what to do, consider
volunteer work. Teaching kids, taking care of
the elderly, feeding animals, getting involved in
a medical mission or participating in an ocean
clean-up will keep you busy in a meaningful
way. Pick citrines to go along with your activities.
Pisces
Virgo
(19 FEBRUARY – 20 MARCH)
An investment you’ve made may not be as
rewarding as you thought it would be but give
it more time and the tides might turn. If all else
fails, make a thorough assessment of the highs
and lows, and set your sights to make things
right this time on a new project. Wear amethysts
and aquamarines for luck.
It may seem difficult to convey your
thoughts and ideas to your colleagues.
Don’t be disheartened if the response is
lukewarm. Take it as a challenge to sharpen
your presentation skills and awe them with
your newfound poise. Exotic gemstones
such as agate and chrysocolla will promote
confidence and eloquence.
Libra
Aries
Networking may rank low in your list of
priorities but it’s always a good thing if you are
seeking a new career or business opportunities.
Be nice to everyone you meet for you will never
know the role they may play later in your life.
Keep an open mind. Lapis lazuli and cat’s
eye gemstones are attractive and make good
conversation starters – just what you need to
stand out.
Differing opinions at work may lead to
possible misunderstandings and bad
feelings. Rather than acting negatively and
isolating yourself, shift your perspective and
be more proactive in resolving conflicts
before they aggravate. Positive attitudes
and teamwork promote a stress-free work
environment. Star sapphires may calm
things down.
(23 AUGUST - 22 SEPTEMBER)
(23 SEPTEMBER – 22 OCTOBER)
(21 MARCH – 19 APRIL)
Scorpio
Sagittarius
Taurus
Being helpful is a good thing but sometimes
overdoing it may do more harm than good.
Lend a hand only to those who genuinely
need help, and not count what they can do for
you in return. The real reward will lie in inner
satisfaction and seeing self-improvements in the
people you’ve helped. Amber will help you jazz
up your style.
Sometimes it feels like you’ve hit a wall
and can’t move forward. Frustrating as it
may be, the best option is to take a break,
find your muse and reboot. Always keep a
positive attitude. Everything happens for a
reason and there is no point in fretting over
things you have no control over. Pearls are as
refreshing to see as it is to wear.
There’s a lot to be thankful for. You will
welcome the concern of trusted friends and
reliable workmates. Your charm and wits
seem to work well to your advantage as you
continue to attract people and widen your
social network. Beware of impulsiveness,
rash judgement and bluntness. Let your
personality shine with diamonds.
(23 OCTOBER – 21 NOVEMBER)
122
(22 NOVEMBER – 21 DECEMBER)
(20 APRIL – 20 MAY)
RING
RING
GUIDE
GUIDE
Finding Your
Ring Size
Your Ring
Place your ring on top of any one of
these circles. The size of your ring is
where the circle sits snugly around
the inner circumference of the ring.
A ring is a very intimate piece of jewellery. This means that
it should fit well and feel comfortable. Here are some
important sizing tips.
12 (16.7MM)
2 (13.2MM)
3 (14MM)
13 (16.9MM)
1. 14.43 ct agate opal
ring with yellow
sapphires, tsavorites and
diamonds, ELKE BERR
2. Optical ring with
black and white
diamonds set in white
gold, PALMIERO
3. Diamond ring with
floral swirls, INBAR
4. 18k rose gold ring
with white diamonds,
GILORO
5. Elongated ring with
brilliant- and rose-cut
diamonds totalling 6.5
carats in 18k black gold,
SUTRA
6. Mother-of-pearl ring
with a diamond inlay,
BOGH-ART
2
4 (14.1MM)
14 (17.3MM)
1
5 (14.3MM)
3
15 (17.7MM)
6 (14.7MM)
6
16 (18.1MM)
INSET
Diamond flower ring,
CONTINENTAL
DIAMOND
5
7 (14.9MM)
4
8 (15.3MM)
17 (18.5MM)
9 (15.7MM)
Where Size Matters
A person’s ring size may change over time
owing to age, injury or weight change. A
jeweller may be able to resize your ring,
although this depends on its design.
If your finger falls between two sizes, choose
the larger size to make sure it will fit; a wider
ring may require a slightly larger size, because
it covers more of your finger.
Measure your finger size at the end of the day
when your fingers are at their largest (like
sizing shoes).
Wrap a piece of string or a strip of paper
around your finger. Mark the point where the
two ends meet. Measure the string or paper
against a ruler to get the circumference of
your finger. Divide that by 3.14 to get the
diameter of your finger. Look up your ring size
using the table shown on the right.
Don’t measure finger sizes when your hands
are cold; let them warm up to room
temperature.
18 (19.0MM)
10 (16.1MM)
19 (19.4MM)
11 (16.5MM)
(Sizing is for China, Singapore, Taiwan, Macau and
Japan; Hong Kong uses a different scale)
124
SHOW
FACETS
DIARY
June 2014
September 2014
29 MAY — 2 JUN
JCK Couture Show
Wynn Resort, Las Vegas
Nevada, USA
www.thecoutureshow.com
6 — 8 SEP
Delhi Jewellery & Gem Fair
Pragati Maidan, New Delhi, India
www.ubmindia.in/jewelleryfair/delhi
30 MAY — 2 JUN
JCK Las Vegas
Mandalay Bay Resort & Casino
Las Vegas, Nevada, USA
lasvegas.jckonline.com
8 — 9 JUN
Global Investment Diamond Summit
Broadstreet Ballroom,
New York, USA
www.globalinvestmentdiamondsummit.com
19 — 22 JUN
Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair
Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition
Centre, Hong Kong
exhibitions.jewellerynetasia.com/6JG
July 2014
24 — 26 OCT
Gemworld Munich
Messe München International, Germany
www.munichshow.com/gemworld
25 — 27 OCT
Valenza Jewellery – Precious Instinct
Villa Scalcabarozzi, Valenza
Italy
6 — 10 SEP
VizenzaOro Fall
Vicenza Fair, Italy
www.vicenzaorofall.it
November 2014
6 — 9 NOV
China International Gold, Jewellery & Gem
Fair – Shanghai
Shanghai World Expo Exhibition &
Convention Center, China
exhibitions.jewellerynetasia.com/shj
9 — 13 SEP
Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair
IMPACT Challenger, Thailand
www.bangkokgemsfair.com
15 — 19 SEP
Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair
AsiaWorld-Expo, Hong Kong
exhibitions.jewellerynetasia.com/9JG
17 — 21 SEP
Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair
Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre,
Hong Kong
exhibitions.jewellerynetasia.com/9JG
3 — 6 JUL
Singapore International Jewelry Expo 2014
Marina Bay Sands Expo and Convention
Centre, Singapore
www.sije.com.sg
30 SEP — 2 OCT
Watches & Wonders Asia
Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre,
Hong Kong
www.watchesandwonders.com
17 — 21 JUL
India International Jewellery Show
Bombay Exhibition Centre, India
www.iijs.org
October 2014
18 — 21 JUL
Malaysia Int’l Jewellery Fair
Kuala Lumpur Convention Centre, Malaysia
www.mijf.com.my/mijf
25 — 28 JUL
The 15th Beijing International Jewellery Fair
China National Convention Center
www.goo.gl/0Uehrs
August 2014
31 AUG — 2 SEP
International Jewellery London
Olympia London, UK
www.jewellerylondon.com
126
7 — 10 NOV
Malaysia International Jewellery Festival 2014
(Autumn Edition)
Kuala Lumpur Convention Centre, Malaysia
www.mij.com.my
18 — 22 NOV
Jewellery Arabia 2014
Bahrain International Exhibition and
Convention Centre, Kingdom of Bahrain
www.jewelleryarabia.com
21 - 28 NOV
A Journey Through Time
Starhill Gallery, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
www.ajourneythroughtime.com.my
11 — 14 OCT
Jewelers International Showcase (JIS)
Miami Beach Convention Center, USA
www.jisshow.com
21 — 24 NOV
Taiwan Jewellery & Gem Fair
Taipei World Trade Center, Taiwan
www.taiwanjewelleryfair.com/
16 — 19 OCT
Istanbul Jewelry Show
Istanbul Fair Center, Turkey
www.istanbuljewelryshow.com
27 — 30 NOV
Hong Kong International Jewelry
Manufacturers’ Show
Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre,
Hong Kong
www.jewelryshows.org/en/home.php
17 — 26 OCT
Singapore JewelFest
Ngee Ann City Civic Plaza, Singapore
www.singaporejewelfest.com
Show
Diary
23 — 26 OCT
Singapore Jewellery & Gem Fair 2014
Marina Bay Sands Expo & Convention
Centre, Singapore
www.singaporejewellerygemfair.com
VIETNAM’S FIRST &
LEADING WATCH MAGAZINE
WWW.THOIGIAN-MAGAZINE.COM
Vietnam’s only watch magazine with
a proud and consistent ten-year history
Thoigian Magazine
JEWEL BOX
DIAMOND CONTACT LENSES
by Christel Lee
Eye Candy
Seeing through diamonds
From stacking and matching jewellery, to having diamond implants on teeth, the list of ways to adorn oneself seems endless.
So what else can a lady do to put that extra twinkle in her eye? India-based Dr. Chandrashekhar Chawan has created a new and very
different way for ladies to wear jewellery — on their very eyes. La SER is a series of limited edition luxury contact lenses making it
possible to wear gold and natural diamonds on the eyes. Dr. Chawan received mixed responses for his creation. “Some said it looked
scary, but most loved it, especially Bollywood personalities,” he says. Ironically, his first customer was a man who decided to buy a pair
for his wife. Each pair is custom-made and features 18 diamonds. To top it off, the outer filters are
gold plated. That leaves us with a final question — when can we all take a closer look?
128
COMPLETE
CONNECTION.
A TRUSTED SPECIALIST,
A RELIABLE CONTACT,
A FRIENDLY VOICE —
OUR CUSTOMERS KNOW US
AS PEOPLE, NOT AS
A CORPORATE ENTITY.
And with people of multiple
nationalities, Rosy Blue is a true citizen
of the world — every local market
has its ambassadors and every
customer has their personal partner.
W W W. R O S Y B L U E . C O M
THE DTC SIGHTHOLDER LOGO IS A TRADE MARK
USED UNDER LICENCE FROM THE DE BEERS GROUP
Reine de Naples Collection
in every wom an is a queen
B R E G U E T B O U T I Q U E – 2 B AY F R O N T A V E N U E T H E S H O P P E S AT M A R I N A B AY S A N D S # B1-119 / 120 S I N G A P O R E + 6 5 6 3 3 8 6 0 0 6 – W W W. B R E G U E T. C O M