JEwELs oF tIME The worLd of womeN`S waTCheS

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New York / NY 10012
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r watches are mo
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other woman’s watch. With their unique design we
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think wo
from whereas men primarily only have one, that being
a watch. Therefore, we take great interest and pride in
having our timepieces be different from that of any
W hat
o
We
believe
women want a
sensational objet
d’art that has the
added bonus of
telling time.
u
yo
o m p are d t
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o
worn mostly on special occasions. Unlike men,
women have a great variety of jewelry to choose
the traditional watch face and turning it
The Zadora Poppy Flower Timepiece
is executed in platinum and palladium,
18-karat white gold, the flower is
meticulously pavé set with pink and white
diamonds, rubies, and pink sapphires,
giving an ombré effect to its voluptuous
petals with its pistils minutely textured in
black patina on platinum.
atch
sw
e s to d ay ?
The
240
Ar
241
tist’s
Just as a museum
ke
Ta
This book focuses on the most beautiful time-keeping machines
made for woman and how the design has been inspired by art,
architecture and fashion. Taken to extreme heights of technological
advancement, bejeweled with rare and precious stones and crafted
to perfection, the examples of haute horologerie presented in this
book express an unparalleled strength in luxury and how women’s
wristwatches symbolize power and progress by attesting to the
exciting idea of female liberation. This beautifully photographed book
focuses on the most beautiful time-keeping machines made for
woman and how the design has been inspired by art, architecture
and fashion with complimentary interviews between watchmakers
and some of the most contemporary designers and trendsetters of
today, showing us that telling time has truly changed for the better.
highly desirable.
xc
l
on women, we are able to create
magical and creative pieces of jewelry to be
en
td
of our watches are one of a kind, unique
o r wo m e
i ng f
ne
ig n
piece?
time
ora
ad
es
appreciated by the eye of the beholder. All
ive
re n
buys a Zadora Timepiece is
of an artistic piece and something primarily
us
ages women have been
revered in art. Much like
the artist transforms a piece of
marble into a beautiful female form,
we take precious and semi-precious
stones and assemble them into a
beautiful work of art which in
turn graces the wrist of its
wearer.
i s it d iffe
res on one’s w
ris
lptu
t—
cu
A woman who
es
adding a major piece of jewelry to her
collection. Our watches are possessions
to be kept forever and passed on to the next
generation. One cannot put a price on the value
o m an ?
aw
H
is a watch lik
ow Throughout the e
f woman bu
ind o
ys
at k
aZ
wh
ltz /
Go
ith An
Q&A
der
Curated by Roberta Naas
on
Jewels of Time
The World of Women’s Watches
e as v
dr
curator selects and organizes
an art show, some watch brands
seek the finest artists in the world
to paint their watch dial canvases.
Other times, the artist seeks
On
the medium.
T i me
56
57
Roberta Naas For the past nearly 25 years, Roberta Naas has
written extensively about jewelry and watches for a variety of different
consumer publications, Internet websites and corporations. Her veteran
insight is unparalleled as her experience has gained her access into
some of the most confidential areas of the luxury watch and jewelry
industries. Just recently, Naas was also honored by the Jewelry
Information Center with the Gem Award for Excellence in Watch &
Jewelry Writing. She has authored several books on the topic such as
Great Timepieces of the World, Master Wristwatches, Master of the
Millennium, Grand Complications, as well as editor and writer of the
500+ Annual Watches International catalog for the past seven years.
She has managed to interview some of the biggest names in the watch
industry, and write for approximately a dozen consumer and watch- and
jewelry- specific magazines, bringing readers a totally new understanding
of this rarefied industry.
(Above:) In 2011, Cartier unveiled a series of six timepieces that clearly demonstrate the brand’s unparalleled mastery of the traditional arts: marquetry, mosaics,
engraving and enamel. (© Philippe Gontier / Cartier)
(Left:) The stones in this superb Rotonde de Cartier 42mm Tortoise mosaic watch are onyx, tiger’s eye, falcon’s eye, yellow pietersite, carnelian, three colors of
jasper, yellow and moss agate, coral and mother-of-pearl. No less than 60 hours of work are required to position the stones on this infinitely small scale; then
they are cemented to ensure an even surface and an extraordinary fantasy comes to life in a mineral turtle that defines time. (© Philippe Gontier / Cartier)
272
273
Since its founding in 1874, Piaget has been creating
dazzling haute horlogerie timepieces that have won the
hearts of royalty, celebrities and collectors around the
world time and again. This is a brand whose reputation
is built on daring difference, technological advancement,
beguiling masterpieces and outstanding craftsmanship.
Nothing is as daring and alluring as its secret watches,
built to bewitch with enthralling beauty. This Exceptional
Secret Ribbon Inspiration watch is crafted in 18-karat
white gold with a total of 552 brilliant and baguette-cut
diamonds. Entirely crafted by hand, the piece required
870 hours of development and 200 hours of gem setting.
290
291
s
&
e
h
c
Won
t
a
W
de
,
n
rs
e
m
O
W
R
E
DW
R
o
My experiences for the past quarter-of-a-
century-plus as a journalist in the watch world began as a
woman pioneering in a predominantly man’s world. When I started,
there were no other female watch journalists, there were hardly any female
watchmakers or executives of brands, and there was resistance to the concept.
Luckily, I, like many women in history in their own areas of expertise (large or small),
was persistent. I was met with many a closed door and “old boys club” attitude before
I earned my stripes through responsible reporting, and finally got to go behind the scenes
of the most hallowed halls of watchmaking and interview the world’s finest creators. Today,
I am thrilled to say that there are other women watch journalists, and watchmakers, artisans,
and executives of top brands — many of whom have commented on the pages herein about time,
women, and women’s watches. Today, women of the world increasingly spend their days, hours,
minutes and seconds multi-tasking, often torn between being power-house career women,
sensual wives and lovers, and nurturing mothers. // Just as I pioneered in a then-man’s world,
the 20th century was one where many women pioneered — it was a century of exploration,
of growth in literature, arts and culture. It was a century of civil rights, gay rights and
O
F
women’s rights. This was a time when women finally got to hold center stage and
simultaneously when wristwatches were enjoying their birth and growth. The
parallel growth of women’s roles and wristwatches throughout the 20th
century is an interesting and intense one — one in which, as the
century progressed, women’s watches played an ever
more vital and visible role.
This Piaget Limelight Party, Disco Ball
inspiration watch is crafted in 18-karat
white gold and set with 123 brilliant-cut
diamonds on a black-satin strap.
6
7
Indeed, many of the world’s finest watchmakers have spent a century (or more) creating timepieces
dedicated to the supposed fairer sex. These watch brands understand that women want something
all their own: a powerhouse timepiece that is also a delicate beauty — a work of art on the outside
that has a roaring engine inside. These watch executives, designers, artisans — many of them women
themselves — understand the complexity of a woman’s nature and celebrate that in their creations.
Just as a woman is multi-talented and multi-sided, so, too, are women’s watches. They are all about
art, craftsmanship, beauty and precision. They are poetry in time and life. Few people realize that
to unveil a new mechanical watch takes years of planning, research and development. The actual
building of the movement inside the small case, usually only one or two inches in diameter, is another
amazing feat. Often that movement is composed of hundreds of tiny hand-engraved, hand-assembled
pieces. The assembling, alone, can take weeks for one watchmaker to complete. The end result is a
harmonious wonder that, sadly, no one ever views, unless the watch has a transparent caseback or a
dial aperture. But it works, nonetheless — ticking tirelessly daily, performing its many tasks unerringly.
A woman’s watch knows its master and dances to her tune as if like magic, thanks to the collective
sciences and arts that go into its making.
In addition to the awe-inspiring, demanding work of the mechanical movement, many women’s
watches feature amazing dials that are artistic canvases, or gem-set cases, or bezels that are
irresistibly seductive. These pieces can take months to create and are well worth the wait, as they
reflect some important facet of art, style, and taste. Often influenced by life around us in their design,
these timepieces are jewels as influential, sensual and powerful as the women for whom they are built.
o
r than my
e
c
th
Time to do what
matters, to do the right
thing, to live the right life. I
world, and I never tire of witnessing the intricate work that
takes place therein. A centuries-old craft transpires in quiet
solitude, side-by-side with cutting-edge technology. It is
a profound sight and often one wonders what makes
these artisans and watchmakers tick; what makes
them so passionate about their craft? Jewels of Time
time it all with my myriad of
is a book about their works of art and craftsmanship,
wonderful watches, and I don’t
unusual and beautiful statements of timeless history
like to waste any of it.”
.
— Roberta Naas
8
I have visited many of the finest watchmaking factories in the
given
m
h as
e
od ldren, is time ,
e
est gift
t
a
e
G
gr
hi
“T
h
The innovation in their design is limitless, stopped only by one’s imagination.
inspired by and created for women.
9
of
Time
by
Roberta Naas
atches & Wond
W
,
er
en
s
m
My experiences for the past quarter-of-a-
EWORD W
R
o
FO
Jewels
tches
Wa
The Wo
r
f Women’
o
s
ld
century-plus as a journalist in the watch world began as a
woman pioneering in a predominantly man’s world. When I started,
there were no other female watch journalists, there were hardly any female
watchmakers or executives of brands, and there was resistance to the concept.
Luckily, I, like many women in history in their own areas of expertise (large or small),
was persistent. I was met with many a closed door and “old boys club” attitude before
I earned my stripes through responsible reporting, and finally got to go behind the scenes
of the most hallowed halls of watchmaking and interview the world’s finest creators. Today,
I am thrilled to say that there are other women watch journalists, and watchmakers, artisans,
and executives of top brands — many of whom have commented on the pages herein about time,
women, and women’s watches. Today, women of the world increasingly spend their days, hours,
minutes and seconds multi-tasking, often torn between being power-house career women,
sensual wives and lovers, and nurturing mothers. // Just as I pioneered in a then-man’s world,
the 20th century was one where many women pioneered — it was a century of exploration,
of growth in literature, arts and culture. It was a century of civil rights, gay rights and
women’s rights. This was a time when women finally got to hold center stage and
simultaneously when wristwatches were enjoying their birth and growth. The
parallel growth of women’s roles and wristwatches throughout the 20th
century is an interesting and intense one — one in which, as the
century progressed, women’s watches played an ever
more vital and visible role.
This Piaget Limelight Party, Disco Ball
inspiration watch is crafted in 18-karat
white gold and set with 123 brilliant-cut
diamonds on a black-satin strap.
6
7
in a
a
fant
stic ar
ray of color-gemstone-
set b
eze
ls t
hat
are
su
re
to
de
Al
und watch that revolv
es in
tive ro
nova
its
—
cas
e. T
he
tw
o-
.
ne
yo
an
sid
ed
ht
lig
t
d
ate
it’s up to yo
u
but
e,
at you wa to
n
im ve wh
t.”
ie
e
im
i
ce
pie
re
sc
ch gives you
t
a
w
th
“A ay on time, to a e t
ch
st
iS
n
olta
M
do
un
Pe
rse
lis
po
is a
n in
i, CEO, Ritmo Mun
do
Ri
tm
o
(Above:) Bulgari “Snake” bracelet-watch with
head in a pavé of brilliant-cut diamonds,
cabochon ruby-set eyes and a smoothscaled body in gold, circa 1967
(Right:) Elizabeth Taylor wore this Bulgari
Serpenti watch in the film Cleopatra in 1968.
(© AP Images)
30
192
31
193
wa
yo
that women need greater
precision — and not that precision
timepiece — but one can find so much more,
all an attention to detail and harmony. A woman
than timekeepers. They are horological
nder, Hau
Fou
tl
o-
between wearer and machine in the form of rewinding the
mere 22 to 28 seconds becomes a sensuous marriage
where women more than anyone else can sense the
intricacies of the finesse of the open connecting
rods and jumping wheels associated
with our instruments.
wo m e n ?
fo r
152
design
is a canvas — an expression of singular beauty. While watchmaking itself is
an art — one handed down from generation to generation for centuries —
ig
certain brands have taken the concept to elevated heights. Indeed, in the world
Ever since the 1920s,
women have come out of the
stereotypes and boundaries established
for them by men and society. Smoking,
dancing, voting, driving and so many other
pleasures associated with material wealth started
to be accessible to them. In examining the demand
we have from our consumers, we realize the extreme
high level of sophistication and taste. The requests
are often exquisite. We have demands where the
wealth of materials is as much important and
rare as the precision of the timepiece and the
visibility of the various components of
the caliber employed by our
watchmakers.
h
tc
as one complete work of art. // The daily communion
mechanism of our exclusively mechanical timepieces for a
d i d yo u d
es
hy
of haute horlogerie, often such a harmonious blend of craftsmanship, history
and culture exists that the result is a timeless masterpiece akin to the most
e c h a n i c al
wa
am
n me n ?
timepieces while really visualizing the inside and outside
elegance,
taking amazing creative license. For those innovative leaders, each watch
n
‘contenant’ or, if you wish, the inside and the
outside. Our women customers have the ability
to understand the broader beauty and value of our
and
LOQUENC
E
W
th a
i nk wo m
u th
en
yo
o
driving force and the leader in
ly
we speak about the ‘contenu’ and the
technology
creating a watch isn’t just about putting numbers on a dial — it is about
common standards; she often is the
the room.
of
power and progress. For the finest watch brands in the world,
made choices that don’t necessarily fit the
e d iffe
t i mWomen
re
ew are much
nt
better
vicustomers
than men! In French
works
commitments and personality statements that symbolize
E
IC
of character who has definite tastes and has
AR
TI
ST
such as elegance, balance, personality and above
wearing a Hautlence watch stands out as a person
O
W
T
Wristwatches are so much more
a watc h ?
is not a quality found in an Hautlence
in
C
W h at d o
wo m e n
One would think
A P TE R
H
C
ink
u
th
nt
Q&A
irector &
/ with Gu
ce
ill
en
gD
in
etu, Man
eT
ag
am
coveted and revered museum painting. // Throughout this past century
many brands have trained artisans to transform art from classical
mediums such as enamel, cloisonné, mosaic, marquetry and even
sculpted gold — onto tiny watch dials — offering breathtaking,
unparalleled works of art — and catapulting the woman’s
wristwatch into a true statement of eloquence
and elegance.
The Hautlence HLc03 watch with
violet mother-of-pearl layered
dial is crafted in gold and offers
jumping hour and retrograde
minutes on a minute track
with volumetric minute figures.
The mechanical manual wind
movement consists of 24 jewels
and beats at 21,800 vibrations
per hour. It is created in a limited
edition of just 88 pieces.
153
Artistically expressed both inside and out,
this Cartier Crocodile Tourbillon houses
the in-house caliber 9458 MC with flying
tourbillon. The 167-part movement of this
watch is inversed to allow for viewing, and
the bridges are skeletonized for ultimate
appeal. The diamond-set crocodile curls
around the dial, protectively hovering
over the coveted tourbillon escapement.
(© Ines Dieleman / Cartier)
46
47
D
The
tist’s
Just as a museum
ke
Ta
Ar
curator selects and organizes
an art show, some watch brands
seek the finest artists in the world
to paint their watch dial canvases.
Other times, the artist seeks
On
the medium.
T i me
© Attitudes Photo/Rémi DERYCKE (Courtesy of Van Cleef & Arpels)
56
© Attitudes Photo/Rémi DERYCKE (Courtesy of Van Cleef & Arpels)
66
57
67
“I chose the
diamond because
its density represents
the greatest value
for the smallest size.”
— Coco Chanel
Art Deco Chrysler Building elevator door, photo courtesy of Tishman Speyer
At Chopard, Art Deco inspiration was interpreted through
construction techniques and design was at the forefront. This
intense attention to innovation, high craftsmanship and detail
continues today. This stunning fan-shaped melded 18-karat
gold watch utilizes the Happy Diamonds free-floating diamonds
principle for alluring appeal.
110
Chanel Fil de Diamants watch
© CHANEL
111
124
125
From Jaeger-LeCoultre, the Reverso
Squadra Art watch is ablaze with
diamonds and colored sapphires for a
radiant appeal. The snow setting of the
gems in graded colors offers alluring
beauty on the front and back of the
watch. This extraordinary setting is
matched by an equally exceptional
mechanism, the mechanical JaegerLeCoultre Calibre 822.
This stunning beauty is an owlish delight outside and a magnificent work inside, as well. Conceived of in
collaboration with the legendary Boucheron (who has also co-partnered in timepiece designs with Girard
Perregaux), the MB&F JWLRYMachine is predicated on the HM3 platform — housing the superb movement
that made its debut first as a magnificent new timepiece, then interpreted by innovative watchmaker Max
Busser as a frog and now as an avant-garde bejeweled beauty. This solid gold rendition is set with amethyst
and violet sapphires with diamonds.
197
ell you
w
d
rs
r
a
u
// I
mp
life.”
ul
ef
br
i
te
gh
st gems in a u
s
own. // D
n
k
i
ecome the
ll never b
e
wi
t
ll b
— Ralph Waldo Emerson
213
books of haute joaillerie and haute horlogerie, this
Vacheron Constantin Lady Kalla Flame dances to life by
the brilliance of its flame-cut diamonds. The 18-karat
white gold case emulates the flame shape of the gems.
momen
t
s
.
re
T
them and th
ey
ve
ro
212
A veritable masterpiece that goes down in the history
pa
r
i
v
e
a
h
t
lue
nd
s
rd them a
ca
wi
monds. /
a
i
“G
d
196
The bracelet is a natural extension of the case with its
sensual design that distracts one from the fact that the
watch houses a mechanical manual-wind movement.
re like u
n
ya
cu
he
Audemars Piguet Millenary Précieuse
Diamond manual winding wristwatch with
more than 500 baguette-cut and brilliant-cut
diamonds weighing more than five carats.
216
217
222
223
yo
y
e
u
it h black
es w
di
m
the place it holds in time.
a
on
ds.
W hy t hi s
ge
r
fo
myself in the beginning. Once I
started creating in black diamonds,
I have never stopped, and I never
will. There is something too special
about the black diamond and
of?
//
ti m
People are often
suspicious of unfamiliar
things, a trap I almost fell into
ec
pi
ch e s ?
wat
le ade r i n
n
/
ono
isog
ea
i g n fo r a
wo
To me,
originality is key. It is
the most valuable thing
we can possess when
we are designing. Being
different must always
come first.
, w h at d o y
o
ar
u
des
an
CEO, Piaget
ou
m
— Philippe Leopold-Metzger,
W he
h Fawaz
w it
G
/
Q&A
ink
expression of their personality.”
th
mated piece of jewelry and a true
esigner, de
women consider watches as a subli-
osi, Founde
r
ru
,D
watches mirrors Piaget’s belief that
Gr
“The required creativity in jewelry
m
This Piaget Limelight Exceptional Piece,
Haute Couture Inspiration watch is
created in 18-karat white gold with 1,210
brilliant and baguette-cut diamonds and
black spinels.
Irresistibly feminine, the de Grisogono Lipstick jeweled watch is based on a cylindrical concept that is squared and harmoniously balanced. This version
is crafted in 18-karat blackened gold and meticulously set with 503 black diamonds weighing 10.03 carats. The dial is polished white gold and set with 54
diamonds weighing one carat. It is accented with a black galuchat (stingray) strap.
226
234
227
235
The case of the Vacheron Constantin
Lady Kalla Flame is set with 20
flame-cut
diamonds
weighing
approximately 10 carats, the dial
is set with 60 flame-cut diamonds
weighing two carats and the bracelet
is set with 120 flame-cut diamonds
weighing 24.50 carats.
The entire masterpiece is carved by
hand in order to fit the gemstones
into the gold frame and then the
(Above:) In 2011, Cartier unveiled a series of six timepieces that clearly demonstrate the brand’s unparalleled mastery of the traditional arts: marquetry, mosaics,
engraving and enamel. (© Philippe Gontier / Cartier)
36.5 carats of gems are placed
(Left:) The stones in this superb Rotonde de Cartier 42mm Tortoise mosaic watch are onyx, tiger’s eye, falcon’s eye, yellow pietersite, carnelian, three colors of
jasper, yellow and moss agate, coral and mother-of-pearl. No less than 60 hours of work are required to position the stones on this infinitely small scale; then
they are cemented to ensure an even surface and an extraordinary fantasy comes to life in a mineral turtle that defines time. (© Philippe Gontier / Cartier)
individually by hand over the course
of hundreds of hours.
224
225
272
273
Q&A
der
r watches are mo
re
you
lik
w
d
appreciated by the eye of the beholder. All
n
s ig
of our watches are one of a kind, unique
o r wo m e
i ng f
n
Because
designs
our
focus
mainly
custom designs taking 2-3 months to
create by hand, making them
highly desirable.
ex
cl
from whereas men primarily only have one, that being
H ow
are indeed “changing the face of time” by taking
n’
work of art.
e
into a platform for an exquisite
m
the traditional watch face and turning it
t in a w
wan
atc
other woman’s watch. With their unique design we
h?
a watch. Therefore, we take great interest and pride in
having our timepieces be different from that of any
d
think wo
m
worn mostly on special occasions. Unlike men,
women have a great variety of jewelry to choose
o m p are d t
ly c
o
magical and creative pieces of jewelry to be
W hat
o
We
believe
women want a
sensational objet
d’art that has the
added bonus of
telling time.
u
yo
ive
on women, we are able to create
en
e
of an artistic piece and something primarily
us
nt
collection. Our watches are possessions
to be kept forever and passed on to the next
generation. One cannot put a price on the value
ages women have been
revered in art. Much like
the artist transforms a piece of
marble into a beautiful female form,
we take precious and semi-precious
stones and assemble them into a
beautiful work of art which in
turn graces the wrist of its
wearer.
i s it d iffe
re
buys a Zadora Timepiece is
adding a major piece of jewelry to her
piece?
time
ora
ad
atch
sw
H
is a watch lik
e
Throughout the
o m an ?
aw
ow
res on one’s w
ris
lptu
t—
cu
s
A woman who
e
f woman bu
ind o
ys
at k
aZ
wh
ltz /
Go
ith An
on
e as v
dr
From Jaeger-LeCoultre these stunning
La Rose and Yellow Tulip watches are
secret watches that unfurl their petals to
reveal the watch dial beneath. The rose
is created with 75 carats of gemstones,
including
1,480
pink
sapphires,
1,370 tsavorites, 120 rubies and 120
diamonds. The tulip consists of 85
carats of gems: 1,600 tsavorites, 1,900
yellow sapphires and 30 diamonds.
Each watch houses the JLC Caliber 846
manual-wind movement.
The Zadora Poppy Flower Timepiece
is executed in platinum and palladium,
18-karat white gold, the flower is
meticulously pavé set with pink and white
diamonds, rubies, and pink sapphires,
giving an ombré effect to its voluptuous
petals with its pistils minutely textured in
black patina on platinum.
e s to d ay ?
240
254
241
255
“Men grow cold as girls grow old
And we all lose our charms in the end
But square-cut or pear-shaped
“Take time to deliberate;
but when the time
for action arrives, stop
thinking and go in.”
These rocks don’t lose their shape
Diamonds are a girl’s best friend
Tiffany’s
Cartier
Talk to me, Harry, Winston
Tell me all about it!”
— Napoleon Bonaparte
— Marilyn Monroe in
Gentlemen Prefer Blondes
Harry Winston is the renowned master
when it comes to diamonds, and
diamond watches are no exception.
This magnificent Paisley is crafted in
platinum and set with a center pear
diamond, 72 marquise diamonds, 432
brilliant-cut diamonds and 101 baguette
cut diamonds. In all, the piece features
606 diamonds and a total weight of
66.45 carats.
This Zadora Snake Timepiece is executed
in patinated palladium 18-karat white gold
and pavé set with black and canary yellow
diamonds and pear shaped emerald eyes,
the serpent clutches a baroque South Sea
pearl in its mouth.
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