Catalonia COSTA BRAVA

Transcription

© Lonely Planet Publications
340
lonelyplanet.com
C O S TA B R AVA 341
CATALONIA
N20
Les
Riu
Ga
Bossòst
ronn
e
Vielha C28 Esterri d'Àneu
Bielsa Benasque
N125
Llavorsí
Escuaín
Peramola
Parc Nacional
Escalona Castejón
d'Aigüestortes
i
Boltaña
de Sos Vilaller Esany de Sant
Ainsa
Maurici Sort
El Pont
Embalse
de Suert
de Mediano
La Pobla
A138
de Segur
HUESCA
R
A139
Figueres
Cadaqués
N232
Catí
Girona
Palafrugell
Begur
Contemplate the absurd with a visit to the
Teatre-Museu Dalí (p359) in Figueres
Conquer the trails of the Parc Nacional
d’Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici (p375)
Reial Monestir
de Santa Maria
de Poblet
Take the cremallera (rack-and-pinion railway)
up to Vall de Núria (p366)
Ski the region’s premier slopes at
Baqueira-Beret (p380)
Explore the compact medieval city centre of Girona (p349)
Seek out the Romanesque churches around Boí and Taüll (p376)
Wander the monastery complex of the Reial Monestir de Santa Maria de Poblet (p383)
POP: 6.99 MILLION
No
gu
e
N340
Sant Mateu
CASTELLÓ
Delta de l'Ebre
Sant Carles de la Ràpita
Vinarós
Benicarló
Peñíscola
Santa Magdalena
de Pulpis
COSTA BRAVA
The Costa Brava (stretching from Blanes to the
French border) ranks with the Costa Blanca
and Costa del Sol as one of Spain’s three great
holiday coasts. But alongside some occasionally
awful concrete development, English breakfasts
and Konditoreien (pastry shops), the ‘Rugged
Coast’ has some spectacular stretches.
Nestling in the hilly back country – green and
covered in umbrella pine in the south, barer and
browner in the north – are scattered charming
stone villages, the towering monastery of St
Pere de Rodes and Salvador Dalí’s fantasy castle
home at Púbol. A little further inland are the
bigger towns of Girona (Castilian: Gerona),
ra
va
MEDITERRANEAN
SEA
with a sizable and strikingly well preserved medieval centre, and Figueres (Castilian: Figueras),
famous for its bizarre Teatre-Museu Dalí, the
foremost of a series of sites associated with the
eccentric surrealist artist Salvador Dalí.
The ruggedness of the Costa Brava continues
under the sea and has some of the best diving in
Spain. Diving centres with certified instructors
operate at a dozen or more places. The Illes
Medes, off L’Estartit, are protected islets with
probably the most diverse sealife along the
Spanish coast. Other top diving spots include
the Illes Formigues (rocky islets off the coast
between Palamós and Calella de Palafrugell
with waters down to 45m) and Els Ullastres,
which has three underwater hills off Llafranc,
with some sheer walls and depths to 54m.
C ATA L O N I A
Contemplate Spain and France from atop the region’s highest mountain, Pica d’Estats (p365)
AVE SUMMER TEMP: HIGH 30°C,
LOW 22°C
La Pobla de
Benifassá
Barcelona–Ib
iza
Vall de Núria
Parc Nacional
d'Aigüestortes
I Estany de
Sant Maurici
iu
Riu N
oguer
a Riba
gorcan
a
alo
pe
ua
d
AP7
Llavorsí
Boí & Taüll
Discover the magical village of Cadaqués
(p356) and nearby Port Lligat, haunted by the
memory of Salvador Dalí
C ATA L O N I A
ra
Pall
aresa
Chill out on the Costa Brava coves and beaches
near Palafrugell (p346) or Begur (p347)
AREA: 32,113 SQ KM
Deltbre
Amposta
Pica d'Estats
(3143m)
Baqueira-Beret
Barcelona–Palma de Mallorca
HIGHLIGHTS
D115
Vallter
2000
Liobregat
Throughout Catalonia (Catalunya in Catalan, Cataluña in Castilian Spanish) the sense of difference from the rest of Spain is intense, not only in the use of Catalan (although everyone speaks
Castilian too) but in the festivals, cuisine and reminders of the region’s unique history.
Santuari
de Núria
Llívia
re
Eb
Excitement runs thinner in the far west and south, but there’s enough to keep you exploring
for days, from the wetlands of the Ebro delta to the historic cities of Tarragona and Lleida. Strike
out and you’ll discover grand medieval monasteries, lush vineyards and hilltop villages.
Perpignan
N116
Puig Neulós (1256m)
Le Perthus
Cantallops Cerbère
Prats de
Portbou
Molló La Jonquera
Colera
Bellver de
Lllançà
Boadella
La Seu
Setcases
Cerdanya Puigcerdà
d'Urgell
Camprodon
Cadaqués
N260
Beget
La Molina Ribes
Roses Parc Natural
Figueres
Castellfollit
Adrall
de Freser
del Cap de
de la Roca Besalú Riu Fl
uvià Empúries Creus
Bagà
Gombrén
Olot
Santa Pau
Organyà
L'Escala
Ripoll
Cercs
N230
Banyoles Verges
Park Natural de la
Torreciudad Graus
Torroella de
Montesquiu
Berga
Zona Volcànica Sarrià
Montgrí
Tremp
Sant Llorenç de
Sant Quirze
Benabarre
de la Garrotxa de Ter
u Ter
N123
Morunys
de Besora
Ri Pals Parlavà
Gironella
Rupit
Oliana
LLEIDA
Salt
Girona
Manlleu
Palafrugell
Bassella
Puig-reig
Sant Hilari Anglès
GIRONA
Barbastro N230
Àger
Tamariu
Solsona
Cardona
Calonge
Vic C25 Sacalm
re
N240
Palamós
c Riu Seg
Ponts
Monzón
tse
C17
Llagostera NII
n
Sant
Feliu
Sallent
Artesa de
Mo
C1412
Vidreres de Guíxols
Binéfar
Parc Natural
C55
Segre
Alfarràs
del Montseny
Tossa de Mar
Breda Tordera
Agramunt
Manresa
Almenar Alguaire
Lloret de Mar
B
Balaguer
Blanes
BARCELONA AP7 Parc del Palafolls
sta
Cervera
Térmens
Monistrol
Almacelles
Co
Montegre
de
Montserrat
A2
C3 Vilanova de
Terrassa
i del Corredor
la Barca BellpuigTàrrega
e
Igualada Esparraguera
Sabadell
sm
Albatàrrec Lleida (Lérida)
Mataró
are
Les Borges
Fraga A2
lM
Martorell
El Masnou
de
Blanques
C241
a
t
s
Badalona
Sarroca de
Sant Sadumi
rà
Co
Candasnos
Lleida Vinaixa
Torrente
d'Anoia
rbe l'Espluga
Barcelona
Ba de Francolí Vilafranca del
El Prat de
de Cinca Llardecans
de
Llobregat
a
Penedès
c
Mequinenza
Barcelona Airport
Reial Montblanc
on
Vilanova
C230 C242 C Monestir de
AP2
i la Geltrú
Castelldefels
Santa Maria Valls
Ri u
ZARAGOZA
El Vendrell
Sitges
de Poblet
Cubellas
Flix
N340
TARRAGONA
Coma-ruga
Reus
Altafulla
Móra d'Ebre
Tarragona
Cambrils
Ba
rce
Gandesa
Port Aventura
lon
G
Rasquera
a–
a
M
Miami
d
N420 Calaceite
aó
a
AP7
Platja
ur
a
D
Xerta
a
N340
st
o
TERUEL Aldover
C
Tortosa
L'Ampolla
Riu Cinca
Running across the north, the Pyrenees rise to mighty 3000m peaks from a series of green
and often remote valleys, dotted with villages that retain a palpable rural and even medieval
air. These mountains provide some excellent walking and skiing. Enchanting Romanesque
churches are scattered across the valleys of the north.
FRANCE
50 km
30 miles
Riu
From metropolitan Barcelona spreads a land of such diversity that, although its furthest-flung
corner is no more than 200km away, you could spend weeks dissecting it and still feel you’d
barely begun. The Costa Brava, blighted by dreary pockets of mass tourism, still boasts much
of the wild beauty that first drew visitors here. Just inland are the medieval city of Girona
and Figueres, home of the ‘theatre-museum’ of that city’s zany son, Salvador Dalí.
ANDORRA
Andorra la Vella
Ariege
Catalonia
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342 C O S TA B R AVA
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COSTA BRAVA
20 km
12 miles
FRANCE
Puig Neul s
(1256m)
Paratge Natural
d’InterŁs Nacional
de l’Albera
Cantallops
Le Perthus
Prats de
Molló
Maçanet de
Cabrenys
Coll d’Area
(1513m)
Setcases
Molló
Tregurà
de Dalt
Vilallonga
de Ter
La Jonquera
AP7
Pant de
Boadella
Beget
r
N260
Besalú
Ripoll
Olot
Riu
Parc Natural
de la Zona
Volc nica de
la Garrotxa
Santa Pau
Parc Natural
dels Aiguamolls
de l’Empord
NII
Sant Pere
Pescador
Fl uv i
Banyoles
I
R
O
N
A
C66
Verges
Castell
de Púbol
La Pera
C63
Tavertet
R
C17
Pant
de Sau
GI632
Torroella
de Montgrí
GI634
Rupit
Manlleu
Golf de Roses
r
iu Te
Sant Martí d'Empúries
Empúries
L'Escala
C31
Sant Feliu de
Pallerols
G
Portbou
Colera
Vilamaniscle
Garriguella
Castellfollit
de la Roca
C26
Cap de CerbŁre
Monestir de Sant
Llançà Pere de Rodes
El Port
de la Selva Cap de
Creus
Boadella
Parc
Peralada
Vilajuïga Sant Pere Natural
Pont de Molins
de Rodes
Port Lligat
del Cap
Vilabertran
Cadaqués
Castelló
de Creus
d'Empúries
Figueres
Roses
Darnius
Coustouges
Camprodon
e
Sant Joan de
iu T
les Abadesses R
Sant Climent
Sescebes
Cerbère
Girona
Pant de Anglès
Susqueda
La Bisbal
d'Empordà
Illa Roja
Palau-sator
Sa Punta
Pals Begur
Ullastret
Peratallada
C66
Sa Riera
Aiguafreda
Sa Tuna
Fornells
Aiguablava
Tamariu
Torrent
Palafrugell
Vic
C65
Santa Coloma
de Farners
Viladrau
Llafranc
GI660
Sant Hilari
Sacalm
C25
Calonge
La Fosca
C31
Arbúcies
Sant Pol
Vidreres
Sant Feliu de Guíxols
NII
C63
GI682
Parc del
Montegre i
del Corredor
Sant Celoni
B A R C E L O N A
Cardedeu Vallgorguina
AP7
Granollers
Palafolls
t ne g r e
Tossa de Mar
Santa Maria del Llorell
Co
st
a
Lloret de Mar
Blanes
Santa Susana
Pineda de Mar
Calella
Sant Pol de Mar
Canet de Mar
Arenys de Mar
e
m
Caldes d'Estrac
es
C32
Arenys de Munt
C60
Montmeló
To Barcelona (8km)
Mon
ra
GI680
Breda
Mataró
Premià de Mar
El Masnou
Co s
ta
d
Ma
el
TOSSA DE MAR
pop 5260
Curving around a boat-speckled bay and
guarded by a headland crowned with defensive
medieval walls and towers, Tossa de Mar is a
village of crooked, narrow streets onto which
tourism has tacked a larger, modern extension.
In July and August it’s hard to reach the water’s
edge without tripping over oily limbs, but it is
heaven compared with Lloret de Mar 12km
southeast – a real concrete and neon jungle of
Piccadilly pubs, Bierkeller and soccer chants.
Tossa was one of the first places on the
Costa Brava to attract foreign visitors – a
small colony of artists and writers gravitated
towards what painter Marc Chagall dubbed
‘Blue Paradise’ in the 1930s.
Orientation & Information
The bus station is beside the GI682, where
it leaves for Lloret de Mar. The main beach,
Platja Gran, and the older part of town are a
10-minute walk southeast.
The tourist information office (%972 34 01 08;
www.infotossa.com; Avinguda del Pelegrí 25; h9am-9pm
Mon-Sat, 10am-2pm & 5-8pm Sun Jun-Sep, 9am-2pm & 4-8pm
Mon-Sat Apr-May & Oct, 9am-2pm & 4-7pm Mon-Sat Nov-Mar)
is next to the bus station.
r
MEDITERRANEAN
SEA
Badalona
Sant Adrià
de Besòs
To Barcelona (4km)
Direct buses from Barcelona go to most towns
on or near the Costa Brava. The railway between
Barcelona and the coastal border town of Portbou runs inland, through Girona and Figueres,
most of the way. From Girona and Figueres
there are fairly good bus services to the coast.
In summer, you could take an alternative
approach to the southern Costa Brava from
Barcelona by a combination of rodalies (local
trains) and boat.
The AP7 autopista (tollway) and the tollfree NII Hwy both run from Barcelona via
Girona and Figueres to the French border,
a few kilometres north of La Jonquera. The
C32 autopista follows the NII up the coast as
far as Blanes.
Palamós
Platja d'Aro
C35
Maçanet
de la Selva
Cap de Sant Sebasti
Calella de Palafrugell
Cala Estreta
Platja del Castell
B
El Brull
Parc Natural
del Montseny
Montseny
C ATA L O N I A
L'Estartit
Illes Medes
Parlavà
va
Vallter 2000
Getting There & Away
Summer Boat Route
Old Tossa
The walls and towers on the pine-dotted headland, Mont Guardí, at the end of the main
beach, were built between the 12th and 14th
centuries. The area they girdle is known as
the Vila Vella (Old Town). When wandering
around Mont Guardí you will come across
vestiges of a castle, and the Far de Tossa (lighthouse;
C O S TA B R AVA • • T o s s a d e M a r 343
%972 34 12 97; adult/child €3/1.50; h10am-10pm Tue-Sun
May-Sep, 10am-6pm Tue-Sun Oct-Apr). Inside there is an
imaginative 20-minute walk-through display
on the history of lighthouses and life inside
them. Next door is a great bar (see p345).
In the lower part of Vila Vella, the Museu
Municipal (%972 34 07 09; Plaça de Roig i Soler 1; adult/student & senior €3/1.80; h10am-8pm Tue-Sat, to 2pm Sun-Mon
Jun–mid-Oct, to 2pm & 4-6pm Tue-Sat, to 3pm Sun mid-Sep–midJun), set in the 14th- and 15th-century Palau
del Batlle, has mosaics and other finds from a
Roman villa, off Avinguda del Pelegrí, and Tossarelated art including Chagall’s El Violinista.
A tangle of 18th-century lanes, Vila Nova
(New Town) stretches away from the old nucleus. Further north, northwest and northeast
spreads the sprawl of the really new town.
Beaches & Coves
The main town beach, Platja Gran, tends to be
busy. Further north along the same bay are the
quieter and smaller Platja del Reig and Platja Mar
Menuda at the end of Avinguda de Sant Ramon
Penyafort. The coast to the northeast and southwest of Tossa is dotted by rocky coves, some
with small beaches. You can walk cross-country
from Tossa to Cala Llevado and Cala d’En Carles
beaches, 3km southwest, or the longer Platja de
Llorell (3.5km away), or drive down to Platja de
Llorell from the GI682. To the northeast, you
can walk down from the GI682 to sandy coves
such as Cala Pola (4km), Cala Giverola (5km), Cala
Salions (8km) and Platja Vallpregona (11km).
In summer (Easter to September), glassbottomed boats (%972 34 22 29; return adult/3-12yr/under
3yr €10/6/free) run about hourly to some of these
northeastern beaches from Platja Gran, calling
in at a few sea caves along the way. You have the
option of spending the day at Cala Giverola (a
pleasant sandy cove with a couple of restaurants
and bars) and returning on a later boat.
Sleeping
Tossa has around 70 hotels, hostales (budget
hostels) and pensiones (small private hotels).
You’ll find all of them open from Semana
Santa (Easter) to October, but only a handful
outside those months.
CAMPING
Five camping grounds are spread out around
the town. The nearest is Camping Can Martí
(%972 34 08 51; www.canmarti.org; Rambla Pau Casals;
sites per 2-person tent & car €28; hlate May–mid-Sep; p),
1km back from the beach and well equipped.
C ATA L O N I A
ὈὈ
ὈὈ
ὈὈ
ὈὈ Ὀ
ὈὈ
ὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈ
ὈὈ
ὈὈ
Perpignan
Book
l o n eaccommodation
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344 C O S TA B R AVA • • T o s s a d e M a r
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TOSSA DE MAR
Carrer Nou
la V
ila
de
ou
l
C del Porta
eta
qu
Ro
la
INFORMATION
Policía Local........................................1 B1
Post Office..........................................2 B1
Tourist Information Office..................3 B1
de S
a
yafor t
Pen
Platja
del Reig
da
16
MEDITERRANEAN
SEA
C
Po de
nt l
Ve
ll
C
Es
to
lt
rs
e S o co
Carrer d
elm
C Sa n t T
10
n
Avin
gu
r
ir a
ma
M
de
er
el
uda d
Avingelegrí
P
Passeig del mar
a
Cd
r
rav
el P
aB
rbe
To Cala Llevado (3km);
Cala d’En Carles (3kmk);
Platja de Llorell (3.5km)
nt
mo
Ra
Platja
Gran
Plaça
d'Espanya
Hotel Diana
8
Vila
Nova
C de Ro
sa Rissech
Carre
r de Tarull
11
Església de Sant4 Vicenç
Plaça de
I'Església
13
Sa Carr
n t er
Jo de
se
p
Cd
e
15
sa
Ba
rr
To Platja Mar Menuda (200m);
Gran Hotel Reymar (200m)
a
s
To
ost
aC
às
Ca
200m
0.1miles
elon
arc
eB
rd
rre
Ca
de
el
ad
ud
ing
Av
la
Po
de
m
To
3
de
Plaça de
les Nacions
Sense Estat
r
rre
Ca
17
r
rre
Ca
de
o
Avgrto Ric
Pue
To Camping Cala
Llevado (4km);
Lloret de Mar (12km)
via GI682
lo
ui
Ag To Jimbo Bike (300m);
n
a
r
Camping Can Martí (600m);
r
Fe Cala Pola & Camping Pola (4km);
de
a Cala Giverola (5km); Cala Salions (8km);
ud
Platja Vallpregona (11km);
g
in
Sant Feliu de Guíxols (23km) via GI682
Av
a
rol
e
v
Ri
Gi
1
u
raa
de
er
door
Carr
ilalad
uxxili
u
A
iaA
arira
Ma
eM
ddeC
err arr 2
14
e
r
r
er
ar
CCa
de
6
ls
Ber
nat
C ar
s
rer
de S
ant
Miqu
el
To Camping Turismar (1km);
Camping Tossa (2.5km);
GI681 to Llagostera (19km);
Girona (39km)
5
7
9
Vila
Vella
Mont
Guardí
Beach
Far de Tossa
Es
Codolar
12
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Església de Sant Vicenç.......................4 C2
Museu Municipal (Palau del Batlle).....5 C3
Roman Villa........................................6 B2
SLEEPING
Hostal Cap d'Or.................................7 C3
Hotel Diana........................................8 C2
EATING
Castell Vell.........................................9 C3
La Cuina de Can Simon....................10 C3
Victòria............................................11 C2
sea. You can pamper yourself in the pools
and massage facilities of the rather misnamed
Dynamic Center.
Eating
Victòria (%972 34 01 66; Passeig del Mar 23; mains €20-25)
This eternal waterfront favourite is popular for
its no-nonsense seafood cuisine. Try for a table
with windows looking out to sea. Several other
cheerful restaurants line this esplanade.
Castell Vell (%972 34 10 30; Carrer del Abat Oliva 1;
mains €30; hTue-Sun May-Oct) This rustic stone
house lurks within the walls of the old town.
Take your meal, which ranges from local cuisine to more -international fare, on the terrace. Seafood predominates.
La Cuina de Can Simon (%972 34 12 69; Carrer del
Portal 24; mains €50-60; hWed-Mon) Tossa’s culinary
star (Michelin says so!) nestles by the old
walls in a former fisherman’s stone house. It
serves an imaginative array of Mediterranean
cuisine mixed in with traditional Catalan seaside cooking. Expect an enticing parade of
amuse-gueules followed by exquisitely prepared mains (such as suquet de salmonetes de
roca con ajo tostado, a mullet stew with toasted
garlic) and good wines from around Spain.
Drinking & Entertainment
DRINKING
Bar Far de Tossa.............................12
Bodega La Parra.............................13
Disco Ely.........................................14
La Tortuga......................................15
C3
B3
C1
D1
TRANSPORT
Boat Services..................................16 C2
Bus Station......................................17 B1
Of the others, Camping Cala Llevadó (%972 34 03
14; www.calallevado.com; Cala Llevadó; sites per 2-person
tent & car €31.60; hMay-Sep; ps) is probably
the best. It stretches back from a cove 4km
southwest of Tossa in the settlement of Santa
Maria de Llorell. This high-quality facility,
apart from its shady camping spots and prime
location near a pretty beach, offers tennis
courts, a pool, a restaurant, shops and bars.
The remaining ones, should you get stuck,
are Camping Tossa, Camping Turismar and Camping
Pola. The latter is 4km out of town on a cove
below the winding road northeast of Tossa.
HOSTALES & HOTELS
Hostal Cap d’Or (%972 34 00 81; Passeig de la Vila Vella 1;
s/d incl breakfast €38/72) Rub up against the town’s
history in this spot right in front of the walls.
Rooms are comfortable and the best look
straight onto the beach.
Hotel Diana (%972 34 18 86; www.hotelesdante.com;
Plaça d’Espanya 6; s/d €76/121, d with sea views €146; hAprNov; a) You’ll relax simply on entering this
small-scale, older hotel fronting Platja Gran.
It has a Gaudí-built fireplace in the lounge and
oozes Modernista décor and stained glass in
the central covered courtyard. Prices include
a buffet breakfast.
Gran Hotel Reymar (%972 34 03 12; www.best
westernghreymar.com; Platja de Mar Menuda; r up to €248;
hMay-Oct; pas) This is the top place in
town and it’s a typical large-scale, multi-star
job. The rooms are comfortable and many
have terraces offering stunning views out to
Many of the old town’s lively bars, some
with music, are along and near Carrer de
Sant Josep. Bodega La Parra (Carrer de Sant Josep
26; h9pm-3am Apr-Oct) manages to maintain an
old-fashioned wine-cellar atmosphere. Next
to the lighthouse, Bar Far de Tossa (%972 34 12
97; h10am-10pm Tue-Sun May-Sep, 10am-6pm Oct-Apr)
is a groovy little bar with outdoor terrace and
the best place for a morning coffee or sunrise
wine. Light meals are also provided and the
place is wi-fi wired.
For some sensual salsa and rumba sounds,
head for the waterfront La Tortuga (Avinguda de Sant
Ramon de Penyafort 11; h8pm-3am Fri-Sun Apr-Jun, nightly
Jul-Aug). Disco Ely (%972 34 00 09; Carrer de Pola; h10pm5am Apr-Oct), one of a handful of clubs in town,
puts on a wide range of mainstream dance
music and plays some house in the mix.
BOAT
From April to October Dolfi-Jet (%972 37 19 39)
runs boats several times a day between Calella,
Blanes, Lloret de Mar and Tossa de Mar (one
to 1½ hours), with stops at a few points en
route. You could catch one of the rodalies
C O S TA B R AVA • • S a n t Fe l i u d e G u í x o l s 345
from Barcelona’s Catalunya station to Calella
or Blanes, then transfer to the boat. The return
trip to Tossa from Calella costs €21. In many
places the boats simply pull up at the beach
(in Tossa, at Platja Gran) and tickets are sold
at a booth there. From June to September a
couple of other companies also kick in, some
extending the route as far northeast of Tossa
as Sant Feliu de Guíxols.
BUS
Sarfa (%902 30 20 25; www.sarfa.com) runs to and
from Barcelona’s Estació del Nord up to
11 times daily via Lloret de Mar (€8.95, 1¼
hours). Otherwise there is only a handful
of summer connections to Girona and Sant
Feliu de Guíxols.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
From Barcelona, the C32 autopista, which
takes you almost to Blanes, saves a weary
trudge on the toll-free A2. To the north, the
23km stretch of the GI682 to Sant Feliu de
Guíxols is a great drive, winding its way up,
down and around picturesque bays.
Getting Around
Jimbo Bike (%972 34 30 44; Avinguda de Pau Casals 12;
h9am-9pm mid-Jun–mid-Sep, 10am-1pm & 4-8pm Mon-Sat
mid-Sep–Nov & Easter–mid-Jun) rents out mountain
bikes for up to €21 for 24 hours.
SANT FELIU DE GUÍXOLS
pop 20,320
A snaking road hugs the spectacular ups and
downs of the Costa Brava for the 23km from
Tossa de Mar to Sant Feliu de Guíxols. On this
road Rose Macaulay, author of Fabled Shore
(1950), ‘met only one mule cart, laden with
pine boughs, and two very polite guardias
civiles’. Along the way are several enticing
little inlets and largely hidden beaches.
Sant Feliu itself has an attractive waterside
promenade and a handful of curious leftovers
from its long past, the most important being
the so-called Porta Ferrada (Iron Gate): a wall
and entrance, which is all that remains of a
10th-century monastery, the Monestir de Sant
Benet. A couple of nice-enough beaches can
be found on either side of the town.
Sarfa buses call in here frequently (up to
16 from Easter to September) from Barcelona
(€11.45, 1½ hours), on the way to Platja d’Aro
or Palafrugell or both. They do not follow the
coast road.
C ATA L O N I A
C ATA L O N I A
Book
346 C O S TA B R AVA • • P l a t j a d ’ A r o & Pa l a m ó s
PLATJA D’ARO & PALAMÓS
These spots mark the two ends of one of the
Costa Brava’s party spots. The beaches are
OK, the high-rises are standard issue and
the nightlife is busy. The area tends to attract
more Spanish tourism than foreign. Around
the main broad beaches and their resorts are
some magnificent stretches of coast with enticing coves. Both are stops on the frequent
Barcelona–Palafrugell Sarfa bus route (€11.80
and €12.65 respectively, 1½ hours to Platja
d’Aro and 15 minutes more to Palamós).
The 2km-long Platja d’Aro beach is big and
sandy, but for something more secluded you
could head north along the GRS92 coastal
walking path, which winds along the high
leafy coastline for about 4km to Sant Antoni
de Calonge. The first beach you hit is Platja
Rovira, and soon after, the smaller and more
enchanting Sa Cova. A little further on again
are two small nudist coves, Platja d’en Ros and
Platja d’es Canyers.
If you should end up in Palamós and wonder how it happened, all is not lost. Again you
can pick up the GR92 trail and head north for
Platja del Castell, a virtually untouched strand. If
you don’t fancy the walk, drive out of Palamós
heading for Palafrugell and look for the signs
that lead right to the beach. Two kilometres
of partly unsealed road get you there. The
northern end of the beach is capped by a high
wooded promontory that hides the ‘castle’ (the
remains of a 6th- to 1st-century-BC Iberian settlement) after which the beach is named.
PALAFRUGELL & AROUND
Palafrugell
pop 17,420
Palafrugell is the main transport, shopping and
service hub for the area but is of little interest in itself. The C66 Palamós–Girona road
passes through the western side of Palafrugell,
a 10-minute walk from the main square, Plaça
Nova. The tourist office (%972 30 02 28; www.pala
frugell.net/turisme; Carrer del Carrilet 2; h9am-9pm Mon-Sat,
10am-1pm Sun Jul-Aug, 9am-1pm & 5-8pm Mon-Sat, 10am-1pm
Sun May-Jun & Sep, 9am 1pm & 4-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-1pm Sun
Oct-Apr) is beside the C66 Hwy. The bus station
(Carrer de Torres Jonama 67-9) is a short walk from the
tourist office.
Sarfa runs to Palafrugell from Barcelona up to
16 times daily (€13.70, two hours). Many buses
also run between Girona and Palafrugell (€4.55,
one hour if you get the most direct service).
Calella de Palafrugell
pop 420
The southernmost of the Palafrugell resorts,
Calella is also the most spread out. Its low
buildings are strung Aegean-style around a
bay of rocky points and small beaches, with a
few fishing boats still hauled up on the sand.
The tourist office (%972 61 44 75; Carrer de les Voltes
4; h10am-1pm & 5-9pm Mon-Sat, 10am-1pm Sun JulAug; 10am-1pm & 5-8pm Mon-Sat, 10am-1pm Sun Apr-Jun &
Sep–mid-Oct) is near the seafront.
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Apart from plonking on one of the beaches,
you can stroll along pretty coastal footpaths
northeast to Llafranc (20 or 30 minutes), or
south to Platja del Golfet beach, close to Cap
Roig (about 40 minutes). Atop Cap Roig, the
Jardí Botànic de Cap Roig (%972 61 45 82; admission
€4; h9am-8pm Jun-Sep, to 6pm Oct-May) is a beautiful garden of 1200 Mediterranean species, set
around the early-20th-century castle-palace of
Nikolai Voevodsky. He was a tsarist colonel
with expensive tastes, who fell out of grace in
his homeland after the Russian Revolution.
FESTIVALS & EVENTS
Calella stages the Costa Brava’s biggest summer cantada de havaneres. Havaneres are melancholy Caribbean sea shanties that became
popular among Costa Brava sailors in the
19th century, when Catalonia maintained
busy links with Cuba. These folksy concerts
are traditionally accompanied by the drinking of cremat – a rum, coffee, sugar, lemon
and cinnamon concoction that you set alight
briefly before quaffing. Traditionally, Calella’s
cantada is held in August.
SLEEPING & EATING
Camping Moby Dick (%972 61 43 07; www.camping
mobydick.com; Carrer de la Costa Verde 16-28; sites per
Book
2-person tent & car €21; hApr-Sep; ps) Set in a
pine-and-oak stand about 100m from the
seaside, this camping ground is in an ideal
location. It has tennis courts and offers the
chance of diving in the area.
Hotel La Torre (%972 61 46 03; www.hotel-latorre
.com; Passeig de la Torre 28; s/d €59/115; hApr-Sep; p)
Dominating a high point on the road leading north out of Calella, and in a leafy spot
near an old watchtower, this hotel offers 28
rooms, most with extensive sea views and
cheery balconies.
Restaurant Tragamar (%972 61 51 89; mains €25;
hlunch only Mon, Wed & Thu, lunch & dinner Fri-Sun) A
little north of the arcaded seaside Plaça de Port
Bo, on a separate beach, Platja Canadell, the
Tragamar serves up tapas and seafood. The
escamarlans gratinats amb pasta fresca (crayfish with a light cheese crust and fresh pasta)
is typical of their original approach to dishes.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Buses from Palafrugell run to Calella, then
Llafranc, then back to Palafrugell (€1.20, 30
minutes). They leave every half-hour or so between 7.40am and 8.30pm in July and August;
the service is steadily reduced to three or four
buses a day from November to February.
Llafranc
pop 170
Barely 2km northeast of Calella de Palafrugell, and now merging with it along the roads
back from the rocky coast between them, Llafranc has a smaller bay but a longer stretch of
sand and gets more crowded. The tourist office
(%972 30 50 08; Carrer de Roger de Llúria; h10am-1pm &
5-9pm Mon-Sat, 10am-1pm Sun Jul-Aug, 10am-1pm & 5-8pm
Mon-Sat, 10am-1pm Sun Apr-Jun & Sep–mid-Oct) is a kiosk
just back from the western end of the beach.
From the Far de Sant Sebastià (a lighthouse)
and Ermita de Sant Sebastià (a chapel now incorporated into a luxury hotel), up on Cap
de Sant Sebastià (east of the town), there are
tremendous views in both directions along
the coast. It’s a 40-minute walk up: follow the
steps from the harbour and the road up to the
right. You can walk on to Tamariu.
C O S TA B R AVA • • Pa l a f r u g e l l & A r o u n d 347
bathrooms. One of the cheapest deals in town,
it also happens to be one of the best.
Hotel Far de Sant Sebastià (%972 30 16 39; www
.elfar.net; d €267-321; pa) A fine old 18th-century
hostelry, with a chapel and a defence tower,
has been converted into an elegant hotel with
magnificent clifftop sea views. The best rooms
come with a spacious terrace. Grand stone
arches and sunny courtyards add a romantic
touch and the fine dining in the hotel restaurant is another draw.
Chez Tomás (%972 30 62 15; Carrer de Lluís Marqués
Carbó 2; mains €25-30; hdinner only daily Jun-Sep, lunch &
dinner Fri-Sun Oct-May) As the name hints, the game
here has a French flavour. Its strength is the
use of fresh market produce to come up with
such dishes as magret d’ànec amb figues (duck
slices with figs).
See Calella de Palafrugell for information on
bus services (left). The Llafranc bus stop is on
Carrer de la Sirena, up the hill on the Calella
side of town.
Tamariu
pop 90
About 3.5km north up the coast from Llafranc,
as the crow flies, Tamariu is a small crescent
cove surrounded by pine stands and other
greenery. Its beach has some of the most translucent waters on Spain’s Mediterranean coast.
The tourist office (%972 62 01 93; Carrer de la Riera;
h10am-1pm & 5-8pm Mon-Sat, 10am-1pm Sun Jun-Sep) is
in the middle of the village.
Hotel Es Furió (%972 62 00 36; www.esfurio.com;
Carrer del Foraió 5-7; s/d incl breakfast €74/128), set just
back from the beach, has spacious, cheerfully
decorated rooms. Pale oranges and aquas and
other seaside colours predominate. It has its
own restaurant and the beachfront is lined
with seafood eateries.
Sarfa buses from Palafrugell run to Tamariu
(€1.20, 15 minutes) three or four times daily,
from mid-June to mid-September only. A rough
road leads to the beach of Aiguablava (p348).
Begur
pop 3990
SLEEPING & EATING
Hostal Celimar (%972 30 13 74; www.hostalcelimar.com;
Carrer de Carudo 12-14; s/d €38/60) The sunset yellow
hostal is barely a stumble from the beach and
offers bright rooms, with differing colour
schemes from room to room, and spotless
The castell (castle), dating to the 10th century
and towering above the village, is in much the
same state in which it was left by the Spanish
troops who wrecked it to impede the advance
of Napoleon’s army in 1810. Dotted around
the village are six or so towers built for defence
C ATA L O N I A
C ATA L O N I A
North of Palamós begins one of the most beautiful stretches of the Costa Brava. The town of
Palafrugell, 5km inland, is the main access
point for a cluster of enticing beach spots.
Calella de Palafrugell, Llafranc and Tamariu,
one-time fishing villages squeezed into small
bays, now constitute three of the Costa Brava’s
most charming, low-key resorts.
Begur (opposite), 7km northeast of Palafrugell, is an interesting village with a cluster of less
developed beaches nearby. Inland, seek out the
charming villages of Pals and Peratallada.
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348 C O S TA B R AVA • • C a s t e l l d e P ú b o l
against 16th- and 17th-century pirates. The
tourist office (%972 62 45 20; Avinguda del Onze de
Setembre 5; h10am-2pm & 4-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2pm
Sun) has loads of information.
A few steps towards the castle from the
central church is Hotel Rosa (%972 62 30 15; www
.hotel-rosa.com; Carrer de Pi i Ralló 19; s/d €75/87; ai),
a little surprise package which has well-kept,
spacious rooms. You can get some sun upstairs
on the terrace and relax in the hydro-massage
baths. Eat at their Fonda Caner at No 10.
Sarfa buses run up to four times a day
from Barcelona (€14.35, 1¾ to 2¼ hours) via
Palafrugell. On weekdays one Sarfa bus runs
to Girona (€5.80, 1¼ hours).
lonelyplanet.com
AUTHOR’S CHOICE
Mas de Torrent (%972 30 32 92; www.mastor
rent.com; Torrent; ste €390-625; pais)
Set in green fields by the tiny settlement
of Torrent, about 2.5km southwest of Pals,
this luxury rural hideaway is the antidote to
worldly stress and worry. The 18th-century
farmhouse has been lovingly restored and
modified, and its rooms furnished with timber period items. The top-end suites each
have their own pool (in addition to the communal one). There are tennis courts on the
grounds and the hotel provides mountain
bikes. In the evening, settle in for dinner
in the gardens.
Around Begur
You can reach a series of smallish beaches, on
an enticing stretch of coast, by turning east off
the Palafrugell road 2km south of the centre
of Begur. About 2km down is a turn-off to the
black-sand Platja Fonda (1km). Half a kilometre
further on is the turn-off to Fornells (1km), a
hamlet on one of the most picturesque bays
of the Costa Brava, with a marina, beach and
incredibly blue water.
One kilometre on from the Fornells turnoff is Aiguablava, with a slightly bigger and
busier beach, and the Parador Nacional de la Costa
Brava (%972 62 21 62; www.parador.es; s/d €134/178), a
modern luxury hotel enjoying lovely views
back across the Fornells bay (half board obligatory in July and August).
Another road from Begur leads 2km east to
Aiguafreda, a beach on a lovely cove backed by
pine-covered hills, and, a bit further south, the
slightly more built-up Sa Tuna, on a quiet pebbly
beach. You could stay in Hostal Sa Tuna (%972 62
21 98; d €120) and gobble down a paella (around
€17) in its convivial seaside eatery. A couple of
kilometres north of Begur, there’s another nice
beach at Sa Riera. A walk along the coastal track
brings you to the reddish sand of Illa Roja (Red
Island), a nudist strip beyond which stretches
the broad Platja de Pals to the north.
Peratallada
The warm stone houses of Peratallada have
made this village a favourite day trip for Catalans. Its narrow streets and 11th-century castlemansion (now a luxury hotel and restaurant)
are supplemented by several other places to
stay, enticing restaurants and a sprinkling of
low-key boutiques.
Ca l’Aliu (%972 63 40 61; www.calaliu.com; Carrer de la
Roca 6; d €60-83) is an 18th-century village home,
where the old stone-and-timber frame has
been teamed with modern comforts to create
an atmospheric place with seven rooms for an
overnight stop. There are several other such
rural houses and a hotel.
Peratallada is on the Begur–Girona bus line
(once daily Monday to Friday).
CASTELL DE PÚBOL
include the Teatre-Museu Dalí in Figueres and
the Cadaqués area.
In 1968 Dalí bought this Gothic and Renaissance mansion, which includes a 14th-century
church, and gave it to his wife, Gala, who lived
here until her death. Local lore has it that the
notoriously promiscuous Gala was still sending for young village men almost right up to
the time she died in 1982, aged 88.
The castle was renovated by Dalí in his inimitable style, with lions’ heads staring from
the tops of cupboards, statues of elephants with
giraffes’ legs in the garden, and a stuffed giraffe
staring at Gala’s tomb in the crypt. In the garage
is the blue Cadillac in which Dalí took Gala for a
last drive round the estate – after she died.
Sarfa buses between Palafrugell and Girona
run along the C66.
GIRONA
pop 86,670
Northern Catalonia’s largest city, Girona (Castilian: Gerona) sits in a valley 36km inland
from Palafrugell. Its impressive medieval centre
is a powerful reason for making a visit.
The Roman town of Gerunda lay on Via
Augusta, the highway from Rome to Cádiz
(Carrer de la Força in Girona’s old town follows part of Via Augusta). Taken from the
Muslims by the Franks in AD 797, Girona
became capital of one of Catalonia’s most
important counties, falling under the sway of
Barcelona in the late 9th century. Its wealth
in medieval times produced many fine Romanesque and Gothic buildings that have
survived repeated attacks and sieges through
the centuries.
Orientation
The narrow streets of the old town climb
above the east bank of the Riu Onyar and are
easy to explore on foot. Several road bridges
and footbridges link it to the new town across
the river. The train station is 1km southwest,
on Plaça d’Espanya, off Carrer de Barcelona,
with the bus station behind it on Carrer de
Rafael Masó i Valentí.
C O S TA B R AVA • • G i r o n a 349
Sights
CATEDRAL
The billowing baroque façade of the cathedral
stands at the head of a majestic flight of steps
rising from Plaça de la Catedral. Most of the
building, however, is much older than its
exterior. Repeatedly rebuilt and altered down
the centuries, it has Europe’s widest Gothic
nave (23m). The cathedral’s museum (%972 21
44 26; www.lacatedraldegirona.com; admission €4, free on Sun;
h10am-2pm & 4-7pm Tue-Sat Mar-Jun, 10am-8pm Tue-Sat
Jul-Sep, 10am-2pm & 4-6pm Tue-Sat Oct-Feb, 10am-2pm Sun
& holidays), through the door marked ‘Claustre
Tresor’, contains the masterly Romanesque
Tapís de la Creació (Tapestry of the Creation)
and a Mozarabic illuminated Beatus manuscript, dating from AD 975. The Creation
tapestry shows God at the epicentre and in the
circle around Him the creation of Adam, Eve,
the animals, the sky, light and darkness.
The fee for the museum also admits you
to the beautiful 12th-century Romanesque
cloister, whose 112 stone columns display some
fine, if weathered, carving. From the cloister
you can see the 13th-century Torre de Carlemany bell tower.
MUSEU D’ART
Next door to the cathedral, in the 12th- to
16th-century Palau Episcopal, the art museum
(%972 20 38 34; www.museuart.com; Plaça de la Catedral
12; admission €2; h10am-7pm Tue-Sat Mar-Sep, 10am-6pm
Tue-Sat Oct-Feb, 10am-2pm Sun & holidays) collection
ranges from Romanesque woodcarvings to
early 20th-century paintings.
ESGLÉSIA DE SANT FELIU
Girona’s second great church (Plaça de Sant Feliu;
h9.30am-2pm & 4-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-noon & 4-7pm
Sun) is downhill from the cathedral. The 17th-
century main façade, with its landmark single tower, is on Plaça de Sant Feliu, but the
entrance is around the side. The nave has
13th-century Romanesque arches but 14th- to
16th- century Gothic upper levels. The northernmost of the chapels, at the far western end
of the church, is graced by a masterly Catalan
Gothic sculpture, Aloi de Montbrai’s alabaster
Crist Jacent (Recumbent Christ).
A bus platges (beach bus) service runs from
Plaça de Forgas in Begur between late June
and mid-September.
The Castell de Púbol (%972 48 86 55; www.salvador-dali
Information
Pals
.org; La Pera; adult/student & senior €6/4; h10.30am-7.15pm
mid-Jun–mid-Sep, 10.30am-5.15pm Tue-Sun mid-Mar–midJun & mid-Sep–late Oct, 10.30am-4.15pm Tue-Sat Nov-Dec)
%972 18 25 00; Carrer del Doctor Castany s/n)
BANYS ÀRABS
is at La Pera, just south of the C66 and 22km
northwest of Palafrugell. It forms the southernmost point of northeastern Catalonia’s
‘Salvador Dalí triangle’, whose other elements
Policía Nacional (National Police; Carrer de Sant Pau 2)
Tourist office (%972 22 65 75; www.ajuntament.gi
Although modelled on earlier Muslim and
Roman bathhouses, the Arab baths (%972 21 32
/turisme; Rambla de la Llibertat 1; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri,
8am-2pm & 4-8pm Sat, 9am-2pm Sun)
62; Carrer de Ferran Catòlic; admission €1.50; h10am-8pm
Tue-Sat Jul-Aug, 10am-7pm Tue-Sat Apr-Jun & Sep, 10am-2pm
pop 2300
About 6km inland from Begur is the pretty
walled town of Pals. The main monument
Parc Hospitalari (Hospital) Martí i Julià (Hospital;
C ATA L O N I A
C ATA L O N I A
is the 15m Torre de les Hores (clock tower) but
what makes the trip worthwhile is simply
wandering around the uneven lanes and poking your nose into one medieval corner or
another. From the Mirador del Pedró you can see
northeast across the coastal plains to the sea,
with the Illes Medes in the background. Up
to four Sarfa buses come here from Barcelona
(€14.80, two hours) on weekdays.
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350 C O S TA B R AVA • • G i r o n a
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GIRONA
To Parc Hospitalari
Mari JuliEl Celler
Can Roca (1.6km)
Sala del Ball............................28 B3
Summertime Drinking
Tents................................. 29 B3
C4
D2
C3
C4
TRANSPORT
Bus Station.............................30 A5
27
gu
Avin
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Banys Àrabs...............................5 D3
Catedral.....................................6 D3
Centre Bonastruc Ça Porta.........7 D3
Convent de Sant Domènec........ 8 D4
Entrance to Església de Sant
Feliu.......................................9 C3
Església de Sant Feliu...............10 C3
Església de Sant Nicolau...........11 D2
Monestir de Sant Pere de
Galligants............................ 12 D2
Museu Arqueològic................(see 12)
Museu d'Art............................13 D3
Museu d'Història Jueus de
Girona.................................(see 7)
Museu d'Història de la Ciutat...14 C3
Museu del Cinema...................15 C4
Universitat de Girona...............(see 8)
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C O S TA B R AVA • • G i r o n a 351
Tue-Sat Oct-Mar, 10am-2pm Sun & holidays year-round) are a
MUSEU DEL CINEMA
12th-century Christian affair in Romanesque
style. This is the only public bathhouse discovered from medieval Christian Spain, where, in
reaction to the Muslim obsession with water
and cleanliness, washing almost came to be
regarded as ungodly. The baths contain an
apodyterium (changing room), followed by a
frigidarium and tepidarium (with respectively
cold and warm water), and a caldarium (a
kind of sauna).
The Casa de les Aigües houses Spain’s only
cinema museum (%972 41 27 77; www.museudelcinema
PASSEIG ARQUEOLÒGIC
Alberg-Residència Cerverí de Girona (%972 21 80
Across the street from the Banys Àrabs, steps
lead up into lovely gardens, which follow the
city walls up to the 18th-century Portal de
Sant Cristòfol gate, from where you can walk
back down to the cathedral.
03; Carrer dels Ciutadans 9; dm student & under 26yr/26yr &
over €18/21; i) A modern youth hostel in the
old town, it doubles for most of the year as a
student residence.
Pensión Viladomat (%972 20 31 76; Carrer dels
MONESTIR DE SANT PERE DE GALLIGANTS
Ciutadans 5; s/d without bathroom €20/38, d with bathroom
€60) This is one of the nicest of the cheaper
Down across thin Riu Galligants, this 11thand 12th-century Romanesque monastery has
another lovely cloister with some marvellous
animal and monster carvings on the capitals
of its pillars. The monastery houses Girona’s
Museu Arqueològic (%972 20 26 32; admission €1.80;
h10.30am-1.30pm & 4-7pm Tue-Sat Jun-Sep, 10.30am-2pm
& 4-6pm Tue-Sat Oct-May, 10.30am-2pm Sun & holidays),
whose exhibits date from prehistoric to medieval times, and include Roman mosaics and
some medieval Jewish tombstones.
THE CALL
Until 1492 Girona was home to Catalonia’s
second-most important medieval Jewish
community (after Barcelona), and its Jewish
quarter, the Call, was centred on Carrer de la
Força. For an idea of medieval Jewish life and
culture, visit the Museu d’Història dels Jueus de
Girona (Centre Bonastruc Ça Porta; %972 21 67 61; Carrer
de la Força 8; admission €2; h10am-8pm Mon-Sat Jun-Oct,
10am-6pm Mon-Sat Nov-May, 10am-3pm Sun & holidays).
Named after Jewish Girona’s most illustrious
figure, a 13th-century cabbalist philosopher
and mystic, the centre – a warren of rooms
and stairways around a courtyard – hosts
limited exhibitions and is a focal point for
studies of Jewish Spain.
MUSEU D’HISTÒRIA DE LA CIUTAT
The City History Museum (%972 22 22 29; Carrer de la
Força 27; admission €2; h10am-2pm & 5-7pm Tue-Sat, 10am2pm Sun) has displays covering everything from
the city’s Roman origins to the sardana (Catalonia’s national round-dance) tradition.
.org; Carrer de Sèquia 1; admission €3; h10am-8pm Tue-Sun
May-Sep; 10am-6pm Tue-Fri, 10am-8pm Sat, 11am-3pm Sun
Oct-Apr). The Collecció Tomàs Mallol includes
not only displays tracing the history of cinema, but also a parade of hands-on items for
indulging in shadow games, optical illusions
and the like – it’s great for kids.
Sleeping
pensiones scattered about the southern end
of the old town. It has eight simple but sparklingly maintained rooms.
Residència Bellmirall (%972 20 40 09; Carrer de
Bellmirall 3; s/d €35/60; hclosed Jan-Mar; a) This attractive spot has been carved out of a medieval
building in the heart of the city. The guy who
runs it is an artist and his taste is reflected
in the place’s overhaul. Rooms with shared
bathroom are marginally cheaper.
Hotel Històric (%972 22 35 83; www.hotelhistoric.com;
Carrer de Bellmirall 4/a; s/d €109/122; aip) A bijou
hotel in an historic building in the heart of old
Girona, it has eight spacious rooms that are
individually decorated. For a greater sense of
home, you could opt for one of the seven selfcontained apartments (going for up to €300).
Eating
Xocolateria Antiga (%972 21 66 81; Plaça del Vi 8; coffee
& pastry €5-8; hMon-Sat) Modernista décor, frilly
lace in the windows and hot sticky cups of
chocolate: time has stood still here. It’s a great
spot for breakfast.
König (%972 22 57 82; Carrer dels Calderers 16; meals
€8-15; hdaily) For a quick sandwich, entrepà
(filled roll) or simple hot dishes, ‘King’ boasts
a broad outdoor terrace shaded by thick foliage. Or just stop by for a drink.
La Polenta (%972 20 93 74; Carrer de la Cort Reial 6;
meals €15-20; hFri-Wed; v) For vegetarian goodies, consider this cheerful option. The seitan
amb formatge blau i couscous (seitan with blue
cheese and couscous; €9.15) is a hit. Opening
days tend to vary.
C ATA L O N I A
C ATA L O N I A
Parc
Central
Plaça
d'Espanya
Carr
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Plaça de
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Hospital de Santa Caterina
Plaça
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ENTERTAINMENT
El Cercle...................................25 C4
Geco........................................26 D1
Maiden's..................................27 D1
Carre
Carrer de la Força
teries
Balles
e les
Cd
17 ma n y
Ale
3
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19 d'Història
Center Bonastruc Ça Porta / Museu
Jueus
7
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29
28
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C dels Cald
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C3
D4
C5
C4
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Ca n
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EATING
Cipresaia................................. 20
König.......................................21
La Polenta............................... 22
Restaurant Albereda................23
Xocolateria Antiga................... 24
R iu O
C4
D3
C4
D3
eig
Pass
SLEEPING
Alberg-Residència Cerverí de
Girona.................................16
Hotel Històric...........................17
Pensión Viladomat...................18
Residència Bellmirall.................19
Bus Sation
Train
Station
2
Martí
To El Celler
Can Roca
(1.6km)
Car
rer
Ro
de
nd
Pal
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afr
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Pe
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26
Jau
INFORMATION
La Caixa Bank............................1
Policía Nacional..........................2
Post Office.................................3
Tourist Office............................ 4
200 m
0.1 miles
Book
352 C O S TA B R AVA • • Ve r g e s
Cipresaia (%972 22 24 49; Carrer de Blas Fournàs 2;
meals €25-30; hdinner only Fri-Sat, lunch only Mon-Wed
& Sun) This tranquil, romantic option offers
a range of Catalan dishes, from a succulent
arròs a llàmantol (lobster rice; €17) to magret
d’ànec al Cabernet Sauvignon (duck slices
in Cab Sav; €13.90). Candlelit dinners for
two in the heart of the old town are on the
menu too.
Restaurant Albereda (%972 22 60 02; Carrer de
l’Albereda 9; meals €40; hTue-Sat & lunch only Mon) Elegant Albereda, the town’s senior restaurant,
dishes up classic Catalan cuisine. It frequently
has gourmet themes, such as mushrooms
(when they are in season), in which a special
tasting menu includes a different kind of
mushroom in every course, even dessert.
El Celler de Can Roca (%972 22 21 57; www.celler
canroca.com; Carretera de Taialà 40; mains €60-80; hMon-Fri
& dinner Sat) About 2km west of the city centre
(and not the easiest place to find), this twostar Michelin choice is one of Catalonia’s
top-ranking restaurants. You might start
with cloïsses amb sorbet de naranja i Campari (clams in orange sorbet and Campari)
and proceed to vieires amb carbassa, fruita
de la passió, te verd i ceba tendra (scallops
with pumpkin, passionfruit, green tea and
sweet onion).
Students make the nightlife here, so in summer things calm down. Thursday is the big
night of the week, as most people head for
the coast on weekends.
El Cercle (%972 22 45 29; Carrer del Ciutadans 8;
h8am-3am) Carved out of a medieval warren
of stone arches and timber beams, this cavernous, centuries-old house is perfect for a quiet,
evening tipple.
You can keep going until the wee hours
near the river north of the old town, where
you will find several bars (and restaurants)
along Carrer de Palafrugell and Ronda de
Pedret. Geco (Carrer de Palafrugell 20), which hosts
a mix of rock and club sounds depending
on the night, and Maiden’s (for heavy metal
maniacs) at No 38 offer boisterous beer and
beats nights.
In summer (May to September), a series
of drinking tents (las carpas) is errected in the
park, west of the railway line. Across the road,
the cybertechno Sala del Ball (%972 20 14 39; Carrer
del Riu Güell 2; hmidnight-5am Thu-Sat) is Girona’s
Thursday-night clubbing destination.
lonelyplanet.com
C O S TA B R AVA • • L ’ E s t a r t i t & t h e I l l e s M e d e s 353
Sights & Activities
AIR
Overlooking the town from the top of the
300m limestone Montgrí hills to the north,
the impressive-but-empty Castell de Montgrí
was built between 1294 and 1301 for King
Jaume II, during his efforts to bring to heel the
disobedient counts of Empúries, to the north.
There’s no road, and by foot it’s a 40-minute
climb from Torroella. Head north from Plaça
del Lledoner along Carrer de Fàtima, at the
end of which is a sign pointing the way.
In town itself, the Can Quintana – Centre Cultural de la Mediterrània (%972 75 51 80; Carrer d’Ullà 31;
Located 11km south of the centre is Girona–
Costa Brava airport, and just off the AP7 and A2,
is Ryanair’s Spanish hub. Sagalés (%902 36
15 50; www.sagales.com) operates hourly services
from Girona–Costa Brava airport to Girona’s
main bus/train station (€1.75, 25 minutes) in
connection with flights. The same company
runs direct Barcelona Bus services to/from
Estació Nord bus station (Map pp274–5) in
Barcelona (one way/return €11/19, 70 minutes), connecting with flights. Sarfa runs a
couple of buses a day in summer, from the
airport to coastal destinations, including
Tossa de Mar (€8, one hour) and Roses (€13,
one hour 20 minutes), as well as Figueres
(€13, 55 minutes). A taxi (%972 20 33 73, 972 22
23 33) to/from the airport to central Girona
costs around €15.
BUS
Teisa (%972 20 02 75; www.teisa-bus.com in Spanish)
runs up to eight services daily (four on Sunday) to Besalú (€3.10, 50 minutes) and Olot
(€5.55, 1¼ hours).
TRAIN
Girona is on the railway line between Barcelona, Figueres and Portbou on the French
border. There are more than 20 trains per day
to Figueres (€2.40 to €2.70, 30 to 40 minutes)
and Barcelona (€5.45 to €6.25, 1½ hours), and
about 15 to Portbou or Cerbère or both (€3.60
to €4.10, 50 minutes to one hour).
VERGES
pop 1170
About 15km east of Girona, this town has
little to offer, but if in the area on Holy
Thursday (Easter), make an effort to see the
macabre evening procession of the Dansa de la
Mort. People dressed as skeletons perform the
Dance of Death through the streets as part of
a much bigger procession enacting Christ’s
way to Calvary. The fun starts around 10pm.
Girona–Torroella buses pass through here.
TORROELLA DE MONTGRÍ
pop 10,230
On the Riu Ter, about 30km northeast of
Girona and 15km north of Palafrugell, the
agreeable old town of Torroella de Montgrí is the funnel through which travellers to
L’Estartit must pass.
admission free; h11am-2pm & 6-9pm Wed-Sat & Mon, to 2pm
Sun Jul-Aug,11am-2pm & 5-8pm Wed-Sat & Mon, 11am-2pm
Sun Sep-Jun) is a local museum and cultural centre
housed in the Can Quintana mansion. The
permanent exhibition on the 1st floor concentrates on local history, culture and music.
Ampsa (%972 75 82 33; www.ampsa.org; Plaça d’Espanya
19) runs buses about hourly (€1.20) to L’Estartit
from June to September (half as often during the rest of the year). Sarfa has three or
four daily buses to/from Barcelona (€16, 1¾
hours).
L’ESTARTIT & THE ILLES MEDES
pop 920
L’Estartit, 6km east of Torroella de Montgrí,
has a long, wide beach of fine sand but nothing
over any other Costa Brava package resort –
except for the Illes Medes (Islas Medes). The
group of rocky islets barely 1km offshore are
home to some of the most abundant marine
life on Spain’s Mediterranean coast.
The main road in from Torroella de Montgrí
is called Avinguda de Grècia as it approaches
the beach; the beachfront road is Passeig
Marítim, at the northern end of which is the
tourist office (%972 75 19 10; www.estartit.org; Passeig
Marítim; h9.30am-2pm & 4-9pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun
Jul-Aug, 9.30am-2pm & 4-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun May-Jun
& Sep, 9am-1pm & 3-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat Oct-Apr).
Illes Medes
The shores and waters around these seven
islets, an offshore continuation of the limestone Montgrí hills, have been protected since
1985 as a reserva natural submarina (underwater nature reserve), which has brought a
proliferation in their marine life and made
them Spain’s most popular destination for
snorkellers and divers. Some 1345 plant and
animal species have been identified here.
There’s a big bird population too; one of the
Mediterranean’s largest colonies of yellowlegged gulls (8000 pairs) breeds here between
March and May.
Kiosks by the harbour, at the northern
end of L’Estartit beach, offer snorkelling and
glass-bottomed boat trips to the islands. Other
glass-bottomed boat trips go to a series of
caves along the coast to the north, or combine
these with the Medes.
DIVING OFF THE COSTA BRAVA
The range of depths (down to 50m) and underwater cavities and tunnels around the Illes Medes
contribute much to their attraction. On and around rocks near the surface are colourful algae
and sponges, as well as octopuses, crabs and various fish. Below 10m or 15m, cavities and caves
harbour lobsters, scorpion fish and large conger eels and groupers. Some groupers and perch
may feed from the hand. If you get down to the sea floor, you may see angler fish, thornback
rays or marbled electric rays.
Several outfits in L’Estartit can take you out scuba diving, at the Medes or off the mainland
coast; the tourist office has lists of them. It’s worth shopping around before taking the plunge.
Apart from price difference, try to assess the quality. Is the equipment in good shape or old?
(There’s nothing worse than a broken regulator.) Do they bother with safety checks? Do they
provide guides? What is their attitude to touching coral and sealife? When doing courses, it is
important to feel that safety aspects are properly taken into account. Sloppy dive shops often
provide sloppy instruction.
If you’re a qualified diver, a two-hour trip usually costs between €26 and €30 per person. Full
gear rental can cost €16 a day. Night dives are possible (usually about €30 to €34). You generally pay extra to go with a guide and for insurance if you don’t have any). If you’re a novice,
do an introductory dive for around €45 or a full, five-day PADI Open Water Diver course for
around €375.
C ATA L O N I A
C ATA L O N I A
lonelyplanet.com
354 C O S TA B R AVA • • L ’ E s c a l a
Sleeping & Eating
lonelyplanet.com
C O S TA B R AVA • • Pa r c N a t u r a l d e l s A i g u a m o l l s D e L ’ e m p o r d à 355
the lower midrange level in the heart of town.
A cheerful corner block with restaurant and
rooms upstairs, it has clean and welcoming
rooms. You can sun yourself on the terrace.
Some more expensive options line up on
the waterfront.
Getting There & Around
THE SITE
Eating
Sarfa runs to and from Barcelona once daily
(€16, 2¼ hours), rising to four times in peak
season (July to August).
During spring and summer there’s a pedestrian entrance to the site (%972 77 02 08; adult/
L’ESCALA
enade in front of the ruins; just follow the
coast from L’Escala to reach it. At other times
the only way in is the vehicle approach from
the Figueres road, about 1km from central
L’Escala.
The Greek town lies in the lower part of the
site, closer to the shore. Main points of interest include the thick southern defensive walls,
the site of the Asklepion (a shrine to the god
of medicine) with a copy of his statue found
here, and the Agora (town square), with remnants of the early Christian basilica and the
Greek stoa (market complex), beside it.
A small museum (Barcelona’s Museu d’Arqueologia de Catalunya, p299), has a bigger and
better Empúries collection, separates the
Greek town from the larger Roman town
on the upper part of the site. Highlights of
the Roman town include the mosaic floors of a
1st-century-BC house, the Forum and ancient
walls. Outside the walls are the remains of
an oval amphitheatre. To the great surprise
of archaeologists, a 2nd-century-AD bust in
Carrara marble of the Roman god Bacchus
was unearthed on the site in 2005.
A string of brown-sand beaches stretch
along in front of the site. On one of them,
1.2km from L’Escala, stands a Greek stone
jetty. Nearby is where the 1992 Olympic flame
L’Escala is famous for its anchoas (anchovies) and fresh fish, both of which are likely
to crop up on menus. Plenty of eateries are
scattered along the waterfront parade of Port
d’En Perris.
Restaurant El Roser II (%972 77 11 02; Passeig Lluís
Albert 1; mains €35; hTue-Sat, lunch only Sun) This is
an excellent waterfront seafood eatery, ideal
for a hearty lunch of grilled catch of the day
and suquet (a fish-and-potato hotpot). It also
comes with less common (and frequently
more expensive) concoctions, such as lobster
with mushroom risotto (€42).
.com; Paratge Camp de l’Arbre; sites per 2-person tent & car
€29; hDec-Oct; ps) Of the eight camping
pop 5180
L’Escala, 11km north of Torroella de Montgrí, is a pleasant medium-sized resort on
the southern shore of the Golf de Roses. It’s
close to ancient Empúries (Castilian: Ampurias) and, about 10km further north, the
wetlands of the Parc Natural dels Aiguamolls
de l’Empordà.
If you arrive by Sarfa bus, you’ll alight on
L’Escala’s Plaça de les Escoles, where you’ll
find the tourist office (%972 77 06 03; Plaça de les
Escoles 1; h9am-7pm daily May-Sep, 9am-1pm & 4-7pm
Mon-Sat, 10am-1pm Sun Oct-Apr). Empúries is 1km
around the coast to the northwest of the town
centre.
Empúries
Empúries was probably the first, and certainly
one of the most important, Greek colonies on
the Iberian Peninsula. Early Greek traders,
pushing on from a trading post at Masilia
(Marseille in France), set up a new post around
600 BC at what is now the charming village of
Sant Martí d’Empúries, then an island. Soon
afterwards they founded a mainland colony
nearby, which came to be called Emporion
student/under 7yr & senior €2.40/1.80/free; h10am-8pm
Jun-Sep, 10am-6pm Oct-May) from the seafront prom-
was landed in a remake of an ancient Greek
vessel amid great theatrical circumstance.
Another few hundred metres north along
the beaches from Empúries brings you to a
gem, the 15th-century seaside hamlet of Sant
Martí d’Empúries, all bright stone houses and
cobbled lanes. On Plaça Major, four restaurantbars compete for your attention under the
watchful gaze of the strange, squat façade of
the local church.
Sleeping
Hostal El Roser (%972 77 02 19; Carrer de l’Església 7; s/d
€35/54; paw) This is one of the best bets at
Sarfa has one bus from Barcelona (via Palafrugell) on weekdays (€16, up to 2¼ hours),
and three on Sunday (four daily July to August). Buses also run to and from Girona.
Head for the El Cortalet information centre
(%972 45 42 22; h9.30am-2pm & 4.30-7pm midJun–mid-Sep, 9.30am-2pm & 3.30-6pm mid-Sep–mid-Jun),
1km east off the Sant Pere Pescador–Castelló
d’Empúries road. Marked paths lead to a 2km
stretch of beach and several aguaits (hides)
with saltwater-marsh views. From the top of
the Observatori Senillosa, a former silo, you can
observe the whole park. The paths are always
open, but morning and evening are the best
times for birds (and mosquitoes!).
The nearest places to El Cortalet that can be
reached by bus are Sant Pere Pescador, 6km
south (served by four or five Sarfa buses daily
from L’Escala and Figueres), and Castelló
d’Empúries, 4km north.
CASTELLÓ D’EMPÚRIES
pop 3640
This old town was the capital of Empúries, a
medieval Catalan county that maintained a
large degree of independence up to the 14th
century. The finest monument here is the Església de Santa Maria on Plaça de Jacint Verdaguer. It’s a large 13th- and 14th-century Gothic
church with a sturdy Romanesque bell tower.
Hotel Canet (%972 25 03 40; www.hotelcanet.com;
Plaça del Joc de la Pilota 2; s/d €49/70; pas) is a
modernised 17th-century mansion in the
centre, with elegant rooms, low-slung stone
arches and a sundeck. A soothing swimming
pool glistens within the stone walls of the interior courtyard. It also has a decent restaurant
offering mostly Catalan fare.
Sarfa runs from about 12 (fewer on Sundays
and up to 28 in July and August) buses a
day from Figueres (€1.20, 15 minutes), three
or four (more in July and August) from
Cadaqués (€3.05, 50 minutes) and up to two
from Barcelona’s Estació del Nord (€15.30,
1¾ to 2¼ hours).
PARC NATURAL DELS AIGUAMOLLS
DE L’EMPORDÀ
ROSES & AROUND
This nature park preserves the remnants of
marshes that once covered the whole coastal
plain of the Golf de Roses, an important site
for migrating birds. Bird-watchers have spotted over 100 species a day in the March to May
and August to October migration periods,
which bring big increases in the numbers of
wading birds and even the occasional flamingo,
glossy ibis, spoonbill or rare black stork. There
are usually enough birds around to make a
visit worthwhile at any time of year.
Some believe Roses is the site of an ancient
Greek settlement, Rodes, although nothing
remains to confirm the hypothesis. The town
does boast the impressive seaward wall of its
16th-century citadel. Although this middling
holiday town’s beaches are OK (the tourist
office has lists of accommodation), Roses is,
above all, a handy base for going elsewhere.
With a vehicle, you can get well beyond the
crowds of Roses into the southern end of Parc
Natural del Cap de Creus. About 6km east of
pop 15,540
C ATA L O N I A
grounds in and around town, this is in a leafy
location about 800m from the seaside and
has a sauna. Bike rental and even massages
are available.
Hotel Les Illes (%972 75 12 39; www.hotellesilles
.com; Carrer de Les Illes 55; s/d with half-board €44/80) A
decent, functional place with comfortable, if
unspectacular, rooms, all with sparkling bathroom and balcony. This is basically a divers’
hangout that’s in a good spot back from the
port. A buffet breakfast is included.
The northern end of Passeig Marítim, by
the roundabout, is swarming with eateries.
These places are all pretty similar, presenting
a mix of basic Spanish fare and chicken-andchips-style meals.
(Market) and remained an important trading
centre, and conduit of Greek culture to the
Iberians, for centuries.
In 218 BC Roman legions landed here to
cut off Hannibal’s supply lines in the Second
Punic War. About 195 BC they set up a military camp and by 100 BC had added a town.
A century later it had merged with the Greek
one. Emporiae, as the place was then known,
was abandoned in the late 3rd century AD,
after raids by Germanic tribes. Later, an early
Christian basilica and a cemetery stood on
the site of the Greek town, before the whole
place, after over a millennium of use, disappeared altogether.
Many of the ancient stones now laid bare
don’t rise more than knee-high. You need a
little imagination – and perhaps the aid of
a taped commentary (€1.50 from the ticket
office) – to make the most of it.
Les Medes (%972 75 18 05; www.campinglesmedes
C ATA L O N I A
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CADAQUÉS
A
To Cadaqués (1km);
Port Lligat (2km);
Cap de Creus (8km)
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To Cala Sa Conca (2km);
Cala Nans (4km)
The Town
Beaches
Cadaqués is perfect for wandering, either
around the town or along the coast. The 16thand 17th-century Església de Santa Maria, with
a gilded baroque retablo (altarpiece), is the
focus of the older part of town, with its narrow hilly streets.
The Museu de Cadaqués (%972 25 88 77; Carrer
Cadaqués’ main beach, and several others
along the nearby coast, are small, with more
pebbles than sand, but their picturesqueness
and beautiful blue waters make up for that.
Overlooking Platja Llaner, to the south of the
town centre, is Dalí’s parents’ holiday home.
Out the front is a statue by Josep Subirachs
dedicated to Federico García Lorca and in
memory of his 1920s stay.
Cap de Creus is the most easterly point of
the Spanish mainland and a place of sublime,
rugged beauty. With a steep, rocky coastline
indented by dozens of turquoise-watered
coves, it’s an especially wonderful place to be
at dawn or sunset. On top of the cape stand a
lighthouse and a curious restaurant (%972 19
90 05) where you get curry and cheesecake, and
sleep over in one of a handful of rooms.
Port Lligat
Walking
Port Lligat, a 1.25km walk from Cadaqués, is
a tiny settlement around another lovely cove,
with fishing boats pulled up on its beach. Casa
Museu Dalí (%972 25 10 15; www.salvador-dali.org; Port
There are infinite possibilities for walking: out
along the promontory between Cadaqués and
Port Lligat; to Port Lligat and beyond; along the
southern side of the Cadaqués Bay to the Far de
Cala Nans (lighthouse); or over the hills south
of Cadaqués to the coast east of Roses.
de Narcís Monturiol 15; h10am-1.30pm & 4-7pm Mon-Sat)
includes Dalí among other local artists. The
admission fee depends on the temporary exhibition being held.
AUTHOR’S CHOICE
El Bulli (%972 15 04 57; [email protected]; Cala Montjoi; mains €150-200; hdinner daily Jul-Sep, Wed-Sun
Apr-Jun) Chef Ferran Adrià, acclaimed by many to be the world’s greatest chef, runs this sensorial,
clifftop restaurant (considered by some the best restaurant on the face of the earth). Each season
sees Adrià indulging himself with new experiments in international and Mediterranean cooking.
The setting alone is worth the effort of getting here. The restaurant has almost as many staff as
tables, making service exquisite. Adrià and Co like to play with essences, so don’t be surprised if
many of the myriad platters that come your way seem little more than puffs of air. This place is
not an eatery, it is a theatrical spectacle for the palate. Adrià and his restaurant (which can only be
reached by car from Roses) have become such international icons that booking a place is nearly
impossible. Well before the 2006 season began, it was completely booked out for that year.
Lligat; adult/student & senior €8/5; h10.30am-9pm midJun–mid-Sep, 10.30am-6pm Tue-Sun mid-Sep–mid-Jan &
mid-Mar–mid-Jun) began as a fisherman’s hut and
was steadily altered and enlarged by Dalí, who
lived here from 1930 to 1982, apart from a
dozen or so years abroad during and around
the Spanish Civil War. It’s the house with a
lot of little white chimneypots and two eggshaped towers, overlooking the western end
of the beach. You must book ahead.
Cap de Creus
Sleeping
Fonda Vehí (%972 25 84 70; Carrer de l’Església 5; s/d
without bathroom €25/40, d with bathroom €50) Near the
church in the heart of the old town, this simple but engaging pensión tends to be booked
up for July and August. Easily the cheapest
deal in town, it got some sprucing up in 2006
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Tourist office (%972 25 83 15; www.cadaques.org;
Carrer del Cotxe 2; h9am-1pm & 4-7pm Mon-Sat)
2
TRANSPORT
Bus Office (Sarfa).....................13 A2
Bus Station (Sarfa)....................14 A2
Ca
rr
14
Ca
lle
3
D
DRINKING
L’Hostal...................................12 C2
CoC de
txe l
2
To Casa Museu Dalí (1.25km);
Port Lligat (1.25km)
(pedestrians only)
et
To Roses (17km);
Figueres (31km);
France (37km)
200 m
0.1 miles
EATING
Ca l'Anita...................................9 C2
Cala d'Or.................................10 D2
Casa Nun.................................11 C2
SLEEPING
Fonda Vehí.................................6 B3
Hotel La Residéncia....................7 C2
Hotel Playa Sol...........................8 D3
rd
If you have time for only one stop on the Costa
Brava, you can hardly do better than Cadaqués.
A whitewashed village around a rocky bay, it
and the surrounding area have a really special
magic – a fusion of wind, sea, light and rock –
that isn’t dissipated even by the throngs of
mildly fashionable summer visitors.
A portion of that magic owes itself to
Salvador Dalí, who spent family holidays in
Cadaqués during his youth, and lived much
of his later life at nearby Port Lligat. The
empty moonscapes, odd-shaped rocks and
barren shorelines that litter Dalí’s paintings
weren’t just a product of his fertile imagination. They’re strewn all round the Cadaqués
area in what Dalí termed a ‘grandiose geological delirium’.
Clinic (%972 25 88 07; Carrer de Guillem Bruguera)
Policía Local (%972 15 93 43; Carrer de Barcelona) Out
C
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Església de Santa Maria..............4 B3
Museu de Cadaqués...................5 B2
rre
pop 2620
Information
B
INFORMATION
Clinic..........................................1 B3
Policía Local...............................2 D1
Tourist Office.............................3 B3
1
Ca
CADAQUÉS & AROUND
C O S TA B R AVA • • C a d a q u é s & A r o u n d 357
ib a N
The country here is drier than further south.
The sparseness continues to dramatic Cap de
Creus, 8km northeast of Cadaqués, lending
itself to coastscapes of almost (ahem) surreal
beauty.
Thanks to Dalí and other luminaries,
Cadaqués pulled in a celebrity crowd for
decades. One visit by the poet Paul Éluard
and his Russian wife, Gala, in 1929 caused an
earthquake in Dalí’s life: he ran off to Paris
with Gala (who was to become his lifelong
obsession and, later, wife) and joined the surrealist movement. In the 1950s the crowd he
attracted was more jet-setting – Walt Disney,
the Duke of Windsor and Greek shipowner
Stavros Niarchos. In the 1970s Mick Jagger and
Gabriel García Márquez popped by. Today
the crowd is not quite as famous, and leans
heavily to day-tripping French from across
the border, but the enchantment of Cadaqués’
atmosphere remains.
Book
del Dr
Callis
Roses, a road runs up into the hills and along
the rugged coast to Cala Montjoi and Spain’s
most renowned restaurant, El Bulli (below).
Le Rachdingue (%972 53 00 23; www.rachdingue
.com; admission €10-15), about 8km northwest of
Roses on the road to Vilajuïga, is one of the
Costa Brava’s club meccas. Big name DJs
from around Europe are wheeled in to this
masia (country house) to spin their sets of
house, deep house and even deeper house
(among other grooves and beats). Clubbers
from all over the continent make an effort to
get here. It is especially active in summer (the
pool comes in handy!), but opens on Saturday
nights in winter too. Call to find out what’s
happening.
Sarfa buses from Barcelona run one to
four times a day to Roses, depending on the
day and season (€16.45, 1¾ hours). Plenty
run between Roses and Figueres (€2.30, 30
minutes).
lonelyplanet.com
Llorens
emesi
356 C O S TA B R AVA • • C a d a q u é s & A r o u n d
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SLEEPING
Hotel Durán...........................10 B2
Hotel Los Ángeles..................11 C2
Hotel Rambla.........................12 B3
rall
de Pera
a
Carr
Carrer de
Joan Mar
agall
7 C de la Morería
EATING
Antaviana..............................13 B2
Hotel Durán.........................(see 10)
La Figuereta...........................14 B4
pis
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lada
TRANSPORT
Bus Station.............................15 C4
Plaça del
President
Tarradellas
C de la Mont
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12
Plaça de
la Palmera
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Girona (38km);
Barcelona (129km)
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d' Empúries (10km);
Roses (18km);
Cadaqués (31km)
C ATA L O N I A
4
Ca
To Vilajuïga
(12km);
Portbou (36km)
Plaça
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SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Dalí Joies..................................5
Museu de Joguets....................6
Museu de l’Empordà................7
Teatre-Museu Dalí...................8
Tickets for Dalí Joies.................9
m
4
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Ven
A1
B2
A4
A2
Colo
Plaça
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INFORMATION
Hospital....................................1
Policía Nacional........................2
Post Office...............................3
Tourist Office..........................4
Car
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8
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Plaça de
Gala i
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To Besalú (23km);
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200 m
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C
To Camping Pous (1.5km);
La Jonquera (24km);
France (29km)
ant F
Twelve kilometres inland from the Golf de
Roses, Figueres (Castilian: Figueras) is a humdrum town (some might say a dive) with a
single, big attraction: Salvador Dalí. In the
1960s and ’70s Dalí created here, in the town
of his birth, the extraordinary Teatre-Museu
Dalí. Whatever your feelings about old Salvador, this is worth every cent and minute
you can spare.
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pop 38,880
Rond
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FIGUERES
1
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The monastery is on a back road over the hills
between Vilajuïga, 8km to its west, and El
Port de la Selva, 5km northeast. Each town is
served by at least one Sarfa bus from Figueres
daily, but there are no buses to the monastery. Vilajuïga is also on the railway between
Figueres and Portbou.
To Castell de
Sant Ferran (1km)
A
Al C
town, this icon of Cadaqués’ nightlife can get
lively with Latin-music nights, art exhibitions
and cool cocktails (not to mention the extensive range of Caribbean rums). Come along for
ὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈ
0
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FIGUERES
les
tomeus, Punta d’En Pampa; h9pm-2.30am Easter-Oct, 9pm2.30am Fri-Sun Nov-Easter) One kilometre south of
Romanesque architecture looming 500m up
in the hills southwest of El Port de la Selva,
with great views. Founded in the 8th century,
it later became the most powerful monastery
between Figueres and Perpignan in France.
The great triple-naved, barrel-vaulted basilica
is flanked by the square Torre de Sant Miquel
bell tower and a two-level cloister.
TEATRE-MUSEU DALÍ
ro
L’Hostal (Passeig; h10pm-5am Apr-Oct) Facing the
beachfront boulevard, this classic has live
music on many nights (from midnight). One
evening in the 1970s, an effusive Dalí called
L’Hostal the lugar más bonito del mundo (the
most beautiful place on earth). Inside hang
photos of the artist and hordes of other stars
and starlets of times gone by.
Café de la Habana (%972 25 86 89; Carrer de Dr Bar-
€3.60/2.40/free, admission free Tue; h10am-7.30pm Tue-Sun
Jun-Sep, 10am-5pm Tue-Sun Oct-May), a classic piece of
this multidimensional trip through one of the
most fertile (or disturbed) imaginations of the
20th century. It’s full of surprises, tricks and
illusions, and contains a substantial portion
of his life’s work. Readers have reported that
queues are getting so long that opening hours
have been extended on an ad hoc basis.
Salvador Dalí was born in Figueres in 1904.
Although his career took him to Madrid,
Barcelona, Paris and the USA, he remained
true to his roots and lived well over half his
rA
Entertainment
If you want to prolong the journey to France,
El Port de la Selva and Llançà are pleasant enough
minor beach resorts–cum–fishing towns, and
both have a range of accommodation. Portbou,
on the French frontier, is less enticing. From
El Port de la Selva you can undertake a wild
and woolly walk along the rugged coast. The
trail, which is awkward at some points, leads
east to Cap de Creus.
A more spectacular stop is the Monestir de
Sant Pere de Rodes (%972 38 75 59; adult/student/senior
cto
Cala d’Or (%972 25 81 49; Carrer de Sa Fitora 1; meals €20;
hdaily) Tucked away back from the waterfront, this knockabout place attracts swarms of
local workers after a good solid lunch at tables
dressed in classic gingham. Tuck into some
llobarro a la planxa (grilled sea perch).
Ca l’Anita (%972 25 84 71; Carrer de Miquel Roset 16;
meals €20-25; hTue-Sun) This busy, ebullient place,
where customers often find themselves elbow
to elbow with perfect strangers, has a name for
tasty grilled fish and other seafood delights.
Casa Nun (%972 25 88 56; Plaça del Port Ditxos 6; meals
€25-30; hThu-Mon) Head for the cute upstairs
dining area or take one of the few tables outside
overlooking the port. Try the raviolis rellenos de
foie gras con salsa de albahaca (foie gras stuffed
dumplings with basil sauce; €15.50).
CADAQUÉS TO THE FRENCH BORDER
-dali.org; adult/student €10/7, summer nights €11, entry includes Dalí Joies; h9am-7.45pm Jul-Sep, 10.30am-5.45pm
Tue-Sun Oct-Jun, summer nights 10pm-1am Aug; night entry
includes glass of cava & is limited, tickets must be booked
ahead). ‘Theatre-museum’ is an apt label for
Sights
nd
ad
Eating
Sarfa buses to/from Barcelona (€18.05,
2¼ hours) leave two times daily (up to five
daily in July and August). Buses also run to/
from Figueres (€4.05, one hour) up to seven
times daily (three in winter) via Castellò
d’Empúries.
.com/vis-info.html; Plaça del Sol; h8.30am-9pm MonFri, 9am-9pm Sat, 9am-3pm Sun Jul & Aug, 8.30am-8pm
Mon-Fri, 9am-8pm Sat Sep, 8.30am-3pm & 4.30-8pm
Mon-Fri, 9.30am-1.30pm & 3.30-6.30pm Easter-Jun & Oct,
8.30am-3pm Mon-Fri Nov-Easter)
Policía Nacional (Carrer de Pep Ventura 8)
Creu Roja (%972 50 17 99; Carrer de Santa Llogàia 67)
Hospital (%972 67 50 89; Ronda del Rector Aroles)
Ro
adult life at Port Lligat, east of Figueres on the
coast. Between 1961 and 1974 Dalí converted
Figueres’ former municipal theatre, ruined by
a fire at the end of the civil war in 1939, into
the Teatre-Museu Dalí (%972 67 75 00; www.salvador
Tourist office (%972 50 31 55; www.figueresciutat
el
dencia.net; Avinguda de la Caritat Serinyana 1; s/d €70/91;
pa) In the heart of town, with just a dozen
C O S TA B R AVA • • Fi g u e re s 359
Information
I'Àng
Nanu’s session at 11pm on Saturday nights. He
does covers of anyone, such as Jacques Brel, and
his own material.
lonelyplanet.com
er de
and remains a popular deal because of its
position and decent restaurant.
Hotel La Residència (%972 25 83 12; www.laresi
good-sized rooms, this hotel oozes history. It
opened in 1904 and Picasso stayed here six
years later. Nowadays the place has a studied,
classy air. A beautiful stained-glass ceiling
creates a light well in the main staircase, and
decorative details range from Dalí to rococo.
The best rooms look out to sea.
Hotel Playa Sol (%972 25 81 00; www.playasol.com;
Platja Es Pianc 3; s/d €107/171; pas) On the east
side of the bay, this sprawling affair offers
spacious rooms with cable TV, a tree-lined
pool, tennis court and gardens. Prices vary
according to position (those with sea views are
the dearest) and, predictably, season.
C ATA L O N I A
lonelyplanet.com
Carr
358 C O S TA B R AVA • • C a d a q u é s t o t h e F re n c h B o r d e r
360 C O S TA B R AVA • • Fi g u e re s
Even outside, the building aims to surprise,
from the collection of bizarre sculptures outside the entrance, on Plaça de Gala i Salvador
Dalí, to the pink wall along Pujada del Castell, topped by a row of Dalí’s trademark egg
shapes and what appear to be sculptures of
female gymnasts, and studded with what look
like loaves of bread.
Inside, the ground floor (1st level) includes a
semicircular garden area on the site of the original theatre stalls. In its centre is a classic piece
of weirdness called Taxi Plujós (Rainy Taxi),
composed of an early Cadillac, which was said to
have belonged to Al Capone, and a pile of tractor tyres; both are surmounted by statues, with
a fishing boat balanced precariously above the
tyres. Put a coin in the slot and water washes all
over the inside of the car. The Sala de Peixateries
(Fish Shop Room) off here holds a collection of
Dalí oils, including the famous Autoretrat Tou
amb Tall de Bacon Fregit (Soft Self-Portrait with
Fried Bacon) and Retrat de Picasso (Portrait of
Picasso). Beneath the former stage of the theatre
is the crypt, with Dalí’s plain tomb.
If proof were needed of Dalí’s acute sense
of the absurd, Gala Mirando el Mar Mediterráneo (Gala Looking at the Mediterranean
Sea) on the 2nd level would be it. With the
help of coin-operated viewfinders, the work
appears, from the other end of the room, to
be a portrait of Abraham Lincoln.
A separate section is given over to the Owen
Cheatham collection of 37 jewels, designed by
Dalí, and called Dalí Joies (Dalí Jewels; adult/student
€6/4 or combined entry; hsame as Teatre-Meseu Dalí). Also
on display are the designs themselves. Dalí did
these on paper (his first commission was in
1941) and the jewellery was made by specialists
in New York. Each piece, ranging from the disconcerting Ull del Temps (Eye of Time) through
to the Cor Reial (Royal Heart), is unique.
Jun-Sep, 10am-1pm & 4-7pm Tue-Sat, 11am-1.30pm Sun &
holidays Oct-May) has more than 3500 Catalonia-
and Valencia-made toys from the pre-Barbie
19th and early 20th centuries. The Groucho
Marx doll is an odd one!
CASTELL DE SANT FERRAN
The sprawling 18th-century fortress (%972 50
60 94; www.lesfortalesescatalanes.info/santferran.html; admission €2; h10.30am-8pm Easter & Jul–mid-Sep, 10.30am2pm Nov-Feb, 10.30am-2pm & 4-6pm rest of the year) stands
on a low hill 1km northwest of the centre.
Built in 1750, it saw no action in the following centuries. After abandoning Barcelona,
Spain’s Republican government held its final
meeting of the civil war (1 February 1939) in
the dungeons.
Sleeping
Camping Pous (%972 67 54 96; www.androl.internet-park
.net; sites per 2-person tent & car €21; hyear-round) A
small and leafy camping ground, it lies 1.5km
north of the centre on the A2 towards La Jonquera. There is a little hotel (with doubles for
up to €52) and restaurant on the same site.
Hotel Los Ángeles (%972 51 06 61; www.hotelange
les.com; Carrer de la Barceloneta 10; s/d €45/62; pai)
MUSEU DE JOGUETS
Eating
Spain’s only toy museum (%972 50 45 85; www
La Figuereta (%972 67 38 45; Carrer Nou 101; meals €25;
hTue-Sat, lunch only Mon) Amid the hurly burly
of a busy, somewhat down-at-heel shopping
This local museum (%972 50 23 05; La Rambla 2; adult/
student €2/1, admission free with a Teatre-Museu Dalí ticket;
h11am-7pm Tue-Sat, 11am-2pm Sun & holidays) combines
.mjc-figueres.net; La Rambla 10; adult/student €4.70/3.80;
h10am-1pm & 4-7pm Mon-Sat, 11am-1.30pm & 5-7.30pm
Book
street shines this elegant eatery, with bare
brick walls and white table linen. On offer is a
pleasing menu of Catalan and Mediterranean
fare, such as magret d’ànec amb salsa de fruits
vermells i graten de patata (duck with red fruit
sauce and potato gratin).
Antaviana (%972 51 03 77; Carrer de Llers 5; meals €30;
hWed-Sun) For a good mix of Mediterranean
cooking, with some enticing seafood options
and light meals, this is a tasty bet.
Hotel Durán (%972 50 12 50; Carrer de Lasauca 5;
meals €30-40) More than a century of tradition
has not tired the Durán clan of serving up
fine traditional food. Frequently the stage of
gastronomic events, this place offers such Catalan affairs as conill rostit amb cargols (roast
rabbit with snails) and seafood classics like
suquet (stew). Salvador Dalí was a big fan
of the restaurant here, and no doubt visited
the wine cellar, which one can do every once
and a while.
Sarfa serves Castelló d’Empúries (€1.20) 10
to 20 times daily and Cadaqués (€4.05, one
hour) up to eight times daily.
Figueres is on the railway line between
Barcelona, Girona and Portbou on the French
border, and there are regular connections to
Girona (€2.40 to €2.70, 30 to 40 minutes)
and Barcelona (€7.90 to €9.10, 2¼ hours) and
to Portbou and the French border (€1.85 to
€2.10, 25 minutes).
AROUND FIGUERES
It is hard to imagine that, just a few kilometres outside Figueres, such pleasant countryside should soothe the eyes. Take the C252
road northeast of town for a refreshing excursion.
In Vilabertran, 2.5km from central Figueres,
there is what started life as an Augustinian convent (%972 50 87 87; admission €2.40, free Tue; h10am1.30pm & 3-6.30pm Tue-Sun Jun-Sep, 10am-1.30pm &
3-5.30pm Oct-May). The 11th-century Romanesque
church, with its three naves and Lombard bell
tower, is outstanding. Also of great charm is
the cloister.
Five kilometres up the road, coquettish
Peralada is known for the 16th-century CastellPalau dels Rocabertí. The castle, with its round
towers, has a rather French air and is given
over to a casino and restaurant. The only way
in, if you’re not eating or gambling, is to turn
up for a classical-music performance during
C O S TA B R AVA • • A r o u n d Fi g u e re s 361
the annual Festival del Castell de Peralada (%93
503 86 46; www.festivalperalada.com; Carrer de Sant Joan s/n;
hJul-Aug) in summer.
BESALÚ
pop 2210
In the 10th and 11th centuries, pretty Besalú
was the capital of an independent county that
stretched as far west as Cerdanya before it
came under Barcelona’s control in 1111.
Most picturesque of all is the view of the
village across the tall, crooked 11th-century
Pont Fortificat (Fortified Bridge), with its two
tower gates, from the southern side of the
Fluvià.
The tourist office (%972 59 12 40; Plaça de la
Llibertat; h10am-2pm & 4-7pm) is on the arcaded
central square. It has a decent map-brochure
and offers guided visits to the Miqvé (a 12thcentury Jewish ritual bath by the river, €1.25),
the bridge and the Romanesque Església de
Sant Vicenç. The church and Miqvé are otherwise normally closed. Have a look at the 11thcentury Romanesque church of the Monestir de
Sant Pere, with an unusual ambulatory (walkway) behind the altar, and the 12th-century
Romanesque Casa Cornellà.
Sleeping & Eating
There are a couple of cheap pensiones in
Besalú. Otherwise, try Els Jardins de la Martana (%972 59 00 09; www.lamartana.com; s/d €83/111;
pai), a charming mansion set on the
out-of-town end of the grand old bridge. It
has well-appointed rooms, with tiled floors,
high ceilings and elegant curtains. Most offer
views from balconies across the bridge to
the town, and you’ll find comfortable sitting
rooms and peaceful garden terraces. Breakfast
is included in the room price.
Pont Vell (%972 59 10 27; Pont Vell 26; meals €25-30;
hWed-Sun & lunch only Mon, closed late Dec–late Jan)
The views to the old bridge (after which the
restaurant is named) are enough to tempt you
to take a seat here, even without considering
the wide-ranging menu. Starting from a base
of standard local cuisine, the menu also offers
more intriguing options, like conill agri-dolç
(sweet-and-sour rabbit).
The N260 road from Figueres to Olot meets
the C66 from Girona at Besalú. See the Girona
(p352) and Olot (p363) sections for information on Teisa bus services to Besalú.
C ATA L O N I A
Greek, Roman and medieval archaeological
finds with a sizable collection of art, mainly by
Catalan artists, but there are also some works
on loan from the Prado in Madrid.
Rooms are all much these same in this spickand-span digs. White walls, brown floor tiles
and sparkling attached bathroom are standard
throughout. Wi-fi works throughout the hotel
(€3 a day).
Hotel Rambla (%972 67 60 20; www.hotelrambla
.net; La Rambla 33; s/d up to €75/85; pai) Hiding
behind an 1860 façade on the town’s central
boulevard, this hotel has pleasant rooms with
crisp décor in blues and beiges. The superior
rooms are spacious and light, but you can
drop the price by taking a standard one.
Hotel Durán (%972 50 12 50; www.hotelduran.com;
Carrer de Lasauca 5; s/d €62/88; pia) Tradition
marks out this key central option. With one of
the best restaurants in town on the premises,
it has an advantage over much of the competition. It has been going since the late 19th
century (on the site, it is said, of a wayside
inn as far back as the 17th century) and offers
comfortable, renovated rooms with modern
decorative touches, satellite TV and hairdryers in the bathroom.
MUSEU DE L’EMPORDÀ
C ATA L O N I A
lyplanet.com
362 T H E PY R E N E E S • • O l o t
lonelyplanet.com
THE PYRENEES
When looking for a place to kip, keep an
eye out for cases rurals or cases de pagès (country houses converted into accommodation),
usually set in old village houses and peppered
across the Pyrenees. The annual Establiments
de Turisme Rural guide, published by the
Generalitat (regional Catalan government),
covers most of them.
The Pyrenees in Catalonia aren’t as high as
those in neighbouring Aragón, but they still
encompass some awesomely beautiful mountains and valleys. Above all, the Parc Nacional
d’Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici, in
the northwest, is a jewel-like area of lakes and
dramatic peaks. The area’s highest mountain,
the Pica d’Estats, is reached by a spectacular
hike past glittering glacial lakes. On arrival at
the top, you enjoy a privileged point with 360degree views over France and Spain.
Aside from the natural beauty of the mountains, and the obvious attractions of walking,
skiing and other sports, the Catalan Pyrenees and their foothills have a rich cultural
heritage, notably many lovely Romanesque
churches and monasteries, often tucked away
in remote valleys. They are mainly the product
of a time of prosperity and optimism in this
region in the 11th and 12th centuries, after
Catalonia had broken ties with France in
AD 988 and as the Muslim threat from the
south receded.
OLOT
pop 31,270
The hills around Olot are little more than
pimples, but those pimples are the volcanoes
of the Parc Natural de la Zona Volcànica de
la Garrotxa. Admittedly they’re either extinct
or dormant, but one erupted as recently as
11,500 years ago.
lonelyplanet.com
T H E PY R E N E E S • • Pa r c N a t u r a l d e l a Z o n a V o l c à n i c a D e L a G a r r o t x a 363
2pm & 5-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat & Sun late Jun–late
Sep; 9am-2pm & 5-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm & 5-7pm Sat,
11am-2pm Sun late Sep-late Jun). Near the bus station, it
has some maps.
Sights
The Museu Comarcal de la Garrotxa (%972 27 91 30;
Carrer de l’Hospici 8; adult/senior/student & child combined
with Museu dels Volcans €3/1.50/free; h11am-2pm & 47pm Mon & Wed-Sat, 11am-2pm Sun & holidays), in the
same building as the tourist office, covers
Olot’s growth and development as an early
textile centre and includes a collection of
local 19th-century art.
The Jardí Botànic, a botanical garden of Olotarea flora, contains the interesting Museu dels
Volcans (%972 26 67 62; adult/senior/student & child
Casal dels Volcans (%972 26 60 12; Avinguda de
combined with Museu Comarcal de la Garrotxa €3/1.50/free;
h11am-2pm & 4-6pm Mon & Wed-Sat, 11am-2pm Sun &
holidays), which covers local flora and fauna as
Santa Coloma de Farners; h9am-2pm & 4-6pm Mon-Fri,
10am-2pm & 4-6pm Sat, 10am-2pm Sun) For information
about the Parc Natural de la Zona Volcànica de la Garrotxa.
It’s in the Jardí Botànic, 1km southwest of Plaça de Clarà.
Patronat Municipal de Turisme (%972 26 01 41;
www.turismegarrotxa.com; Carrer del Hospici 8; h10am-
well as volcanoes and earthquakes.
Four volcanoes stand sentry on the fringes
of Olot. Head for Volcà Montsacopa, 500m
north of the centre, or Volcà La Garrinada,
1km northeast of the centre. In both cases
paths climb to their craters.
Information
Several simple eateries are clustered around
Plaça Major but the best restaurants are out of
the town centre.
Torre Malagrida (%972 26 42 00; Passeig de Barcelona 15;
dm student & under 26yr/26yr & over €16/19) This youth
hostel is set in an unusual early-20th-century
Modernista building surrounded by gardens.
The accommodation is unadorned dormstyle and you can purchase meals and rent
bicycles.
Pensió La Vila (%972 26 98 07; www.pensiolavila
.com; Carrer de Sant Roc 1; s/d €37/51;aiw) Smack
in the middle of town and overlooking Plaça
Major, this straightforward pension has perfectly comfortable rooms over three floors
with satellite TV. Cheaper rooms with shared
showers are also available.
Les Cols (%972 26 92 09; www.lescols.com; Carretera de
la Canya s/n; meals €35-45; lunch & dinner Wed-Sat, lunch only
Mon-Tue) Set in a converted masia, more than
100 years old, Les Cols is about 4km north of
central Olot. Inside the décor has 21st-century
edge, with iron and glass walls, and gourmet
ambitions. Dishes with local products are
prepared with a silken touch, from chicken
and duck to wild boar.
ὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
0
0
WEST CATALAN PYRENEES
Teisa (%972 26 01 96; www.teisa-bus.com) runs buses
to/from Barcelona (via Banyoles) up to seven
times a day (€13.60, two to 2½ hours) and Girona via Banyoles and Besalú up to 15 times a
day (€5.55, 1¼ hours). The easiest approach by
car from Barcelona is by the AP7 and C63.
PARC NATURAL DE LA ZONA
VOLCÀNICA DE LA GARROTXA
Nog
Riu Seg
re
Ri
u
Riu
ogu
RibagN
a
or aner
a
uer
aP
al
la
re
sa
Riu
Va
lira
a
la Baells
SPAIN
Llívia
Coll de
Pic de
Noucreus Torreneules
Pic de
(2799m)
(2585m)
Finestrelles
Vallter 2000 Coll dels Prats de
(2829m)
Tres Pics
Pic del Segre
(2400m) Molló C38
Núria
(2844m)
Coll d’Ares
Setcases
Puigmal
(1513m)
Molló
(2909m)
Tregurà
Rocabruna
Queralbs
de Dalt
Beget
Vilallonga de Ter
Fornells de
Camprodon
la Muntanya
Ribes
de Freser
G I R O N A
Castellar
N260
de n'Hug
Ter
N152
Riu
Castellfollit
Gombrèn
de
la
Roca
Sant Joan de C-26
C26
Campdevànol
les Abadesses
La Pobla
N260
Olot To Banyoles
de Lillet
Ripoll
Parc Natural de la
(23km)
Zona Volc nica
Santa Pau
C26
de la Garrotxa
The park completely surrounds Olot but the
most interesting area is between Olot and the
village of Santa Pau, 10km southeast.
Volcanic eruptions began here about 350,000
years ago and the most recent one, at Volcà del
Croscat, happened 11,500 years ago. In the park
there are about 30 volcanic cones, up to 160m
high and 1.5km wide. Together with the lush
vegetation, a result of fertile soils and a damp
climate, these create a landscape of unusual
beauty. Between the woods are crop fields, a few
hamlets and scattered old stone farmhouses.
The main park information office is the
Casal dels Volcans in Olot. Another is the Centre
d’Informació Can Serra (%972 19 50 74), beside the
GI524 Olot–Banyoles road 4.5km from the
centre of Olot.
C ATA L O N I A
Eth Pònt de Rei
Bausen
Canejan
Porcingles
BagnèresSant Joan de Toran
Les
de-Luchon
FRANCE
Bordius Eth Pradet
C142B
Bossòst
Coflens
Arres
de
Sus
Refugi del
Arres
Era
de
Jos
Fornet
Montgarri
Bordeta
Vilamòs Va
Salau Estany de
Eth
Arròs l d’Ar
Arrò
an Beret
Bonabé
Mont-roig Certascan
Vila
Portilhon Es Bòrdes
(2864m)
(1292m)
Salardú
Vielha
Arties
BaqueiraEth Pònt
Beret
d'Arròs Casau Escunhau
Noarre
Isil Alós d'lsil
Baqueira
Pica d’Estats
Tredòs
Àrreu Borén L504
La
Graus
(3143m)
M
Port de la
Isavarre
Túnel de
Sorpe
al
Bonaigua
Aineto Tavascan Refugi Vall
ad
Vielha
Esterri
(2072m)
València
Ferrera
Lladorre
d'Àneu
d'Àneu
Pic d’Aneto
Parc Nacional
Monteixo
C13 Lladrós
(3408m)
d’Aig estortes i Estany
(2905m) A N D O R R A
Espot Arrós de
Esterri Àreu
de Sant Maurici
Pic de la
Cardós
de Cardós
Caldes
Maladeta
Tor
Els
Super Ribera de Vall rrera
de
Boí
(3308m)
Encantats Espot Cardós
Fe
Alins
Boí
(2746m)
Barruera
Taüll
Tirvia
Burg
Estany
de
Llavorsí
Andorra
Boí-Taüll
Capdella
Latour-de
Farrera
Sant
N230
Resort
La Vella
-Carol
Estany de
C13
Maurici
Guils de
Malniu
Rialp
Cerdanya
La Torre
S
E
E
de Capdella
El Pont
N
Meranges
Puigcerdà
Port Ainé
RE
de Suert
PY
Torreta de
Sort
L503
Lles de
Bolvir
Arànser
Sarroca
Ger
l’Orri (2439m)
N145
Cerdanya
de Bellera
La Seu
N260
Gerri de
d'Urgell
N260
Bellver
la Sal
Coll de la Creu
de Cerdanya Masella
de Perves
ARAGÓN
Parc Natural del
(1325m)
Senterada
Adrall
La Molina
Cad -Moixer
Túnel
N260
Tost
a d e l Ca d
del Cadí
Serr
Bagà
C14
Pedraforca
La Pobla
L L E I D A
(2497m)
de Segur
Tuixén
Congost Fórnols
Guardiola
de Tresponts
Gósol
C13
Aramunt
de Berguedà
(Tresponts
Organyá
Gorge)
C16
Tremp
El Port
To
Berga
del Comte
PantÆ de
(5km)
20 km
12 miles
et
C ATA L O N I A
Sleeping & Eating
364 T H E PY R E N E E S • • R i p o l l
lyplanet.com
AUTHOR’S CHOICE
Mas Pau (%972 54 61 54; www.maspau.com; s/d €88/105; hclosed 6 Jan–mid-Mar; pais) Five
kilometres southwest of Figueres on the road to Olot, and near the village of Avinyonet de
Puigventós, is this breathtaking country hotel and restaurant. With its stone and ochre plaster
walls, shady timber verandah and peaceful gardens, it makes a perfect rural getaway. The spacious rooms are immaculate, with antique furnishings and art on the walls. There are some more
luxurious suites too. Breakfast is extra (€11). The restaurant (meals €60 to €80; lunch and dinner
Wednesday to Saturday, lunch Sunday, dinner Monday to Tuesday) is a paradise of delicate
flavours, with local products lovingly arranged into haute cuisine masterpieces.
The old part of Santa Pau village, perched on
a rocky outcrop, contains a porticoed plaza,
the Romanesque Església de Santa Maria, and
a locked-up baronial castle.
Castellfollit de la Roca, on the N260 about
8km northeast of Olot, stands atop a crag
composed of several layers of petrified lava –
it’s most easily viewed from the road north
of the village.
Several good marked walks, which you can
complete in less than a day, allow you to explore the park with ease. Inquire at the park
information offices about routes.
Just off the GI524, and close to the most
interesting parts of the park, are some pleasant,
small country camping grounds. Wild camping is banned in the Garrotxa district, which
stretches from east of Besalú to west of Olot,
and from the French border to south of Sant
Feliu de Pallerols. Càmping La Fageda (%972 27
12 39; www.campinglafageda.com; Batet de la Serra; sites per
2-person tent & car €16.95; psw), 4km east of
the centre of Olot, has a pool, bar-restaurant,
picnic areas and a children’s playground.
RIPOLL
The tourist office (%972 70 23 51; www.elripolles.com
& www.ajripoll.org; Plaça del Abat Oliba; h9.30am-1.30pm
& 4-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun) is by the Ribes de
Freser–Sant Joan de les Abadesses road, which
runs through the north of town. The Monestir
de Santa Maria is virtually next door.
Monestir de Santa Maria
Following its founding in AD 879, the monastery grew rapidly rich, big and influential.
From the mid-10th to mid-11th centuries it
was Catalonia’s spiritual and cultural heart.
A five-naved basilica was built, and adorned
in about 1100 with a stone portal that ranks
among the high points of Romanesque art.
Two fires had left the basilica in ruins by
1885, after which it was restored in a rather
gloomy imitation of its former glory. The
most interesting feature inside is the restored
tomb of Guifré el Pilós.
You can visit the basilica and its great portal
(admission free; h10am-1pm & 3-7pm), now protected
by a wall of glass. A chart near the portal (in
Catalan) helps to decipher the feast of sculpture: a medieval vision of the universe, from
God the Creator, in the centre at the top, to
the month-by-month scenes of daily rural life
on the innermost pillars.
Down a few steps, to the right of the doorway, is the monastery’s beautiful claustre (cloister; admission €2). It’s a two-storey affair, created
in the 12th to 15th centuries.
Sleeping & Eating
Ca la Paula (%972 70 00 11; www.elripolles.com/cala
paula; Carrer dels Pirineus 6; s/d €24/41;p) This friendly
family establishment is barely a stone’s throw
from the Monestir de Santa Maria. It has
modern rooms with sparkling bathrooms.
Can Nerol (%972 70 18 94; Carrer del Pla d’Ordina 11;
meals €30; hlunch only Sun-Fri, lunch & dinner Sat) In
a lovely house surrounded by gardens, this
restaurant serves a mix of Catalan and French
cooking. You’ll need to ask for directions:
from Carretera de Ribes follow the winding
lane of Carrer dels Hortolans down to the Riu
Freser and cross the bridge. Turn right and
head upstream to the highway overpass – the
restaurant is just beyond it.
The bus and train stations are almost side by
side on Carrer del Progrés, 600m southeast
of the centre. Connections with Barcelona,
Ribes de Freser and Puigcerdà are better by
train. About 12 trains a day run to/from Barcelona (€5.50, about two hours), up to seven
to Ribes de Freser (€1.90, 20 minutes) and six
to Puigcerdà (€2.90, 1¼ hours).
AROUND RIPOLL
A short way north of Ripoll, the GI401
branches west from Campdevànol, passes
through Gombrèn and then proceeds in
twisting and turning fashion on to La Pobla
de Lillet, set a short way below the source of
one of Catalonia’s more important rivers,
the Llobregat.
The grey stone village started life as a
Roman outpost and grew to some importance
T H E PY R E N E E S • • A r o u n d R i p o l l 365
as a local agricultural centre. People still cross
its beautiful 12th-century Romanesque bridge
and the town is also known for its delightful
Jardins Artigas, a Modernista landscaped garden spread out along the river. You can sleep
in one of three simple pensions.
Follow the road up into the mountains
from La Pobla de Lillet to the source of the
Llobregat. Just half a kilometre on and you
reach the mountain hamlet of Castellar de n’Hug,
over the shoulder from the La Molina ski
resort (see p369). The hamlet was founded in
the 13th century under the lords of Mataplana
(based in Gombrèn). A tight web of alleys is
bundled around the Romanesque Església de
Santa Maria (much remodelled over the centuries), and from the square by the church
you look north across a valley to the bare
mountains beyond.
Six pensiones are gathered about the hamlet,
three of them on Plaça Major. Most have a
bar attached, where you can get something
to eat.
One Transports Mir (%972 70 30 12; www.auto
carsmir.com) bus a day (except Sunday) runs
between Ripoll and Bagà via Campdevànol,
Gombrèn, Castellar de N’Hug and La Pobla de
Lillet. The journey (€4) takes 1½ hours.
OUT & ABOUT IN THE PYRENEES
The Catalan Pyrenees provide magnificent walking and trekking. You can undertake strolls of a
few hours, or day walks that can be strung together into treks of several days. Nearly all can be
done without camping gear, with nights spent in villages or refugis (mountain shelters).
Most of the refugis mentioned in this chapter are run by two Barcelona mountain clubs, the
Federació d’Entitats Excursionistes de Catalunya (FEEC; %93 412 07 77; www.feec.org) and the
Centre Excursionista de Catalunya (CEC; %93 315 23 11; www.cec-centre.org in Spanish). A night in
a refugi costs around €11.50 to €12.50. Normally FEEC refugis allow you to cook; CEC ones don’t.
Moderately priced meals are often available.
The coast-to-coast GR11 long-distance path traverses the entire Pyrenees from Cap de Creus
on the Costa Brava to Hondarribia on the Bay of Biscay. Its route across Catalonia goes by way
of La Jonquera, Albanyà, Beget, Setcases, the Vall de Núria, Planoles, Puigcerdà, Andorra, south
of Pica d’Estats (3143m), over to the Parc Nacional d’Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici, then
on to the southern flank of the Val d’Aran and into Aragón.
The best season for walking in the high Pyrenees is from late June to early September. Earlier
than that, snow can make things difficult, and avalanches are possible. Later, the weather can
turn poor. It can get very hot in midsummer even at high altitudes, but nowhere in the Pyrenees
is the weather reliable; even in July and August you can get rainy days, fog and cloud – and
cold temperatures at high altitude.
Local advice from tourist offices, park rangers, mountain refugis and other walkers is invaluable
and you should look out for hiking maps of the kind mentioned in the Directory (p851).
There’s boundless scope for climbing – Pedraforca in the Serra del Cadí offers some of the
most exciting ascents. For more information on walking and trekking in Spain, see the Spain
Outdoors chapter (p83).
C ATA L O N I A
C ATA L O N I A
pop 10,760
Ripoll, 30km west of Olot and in the next
valley, is a shabby industrial town. However,
it can claim, with some justice, to be the
birthplace of Catalonia. At its heart, in the
Monestir de Santa Maria, is one of the finest
pieces of Romanesque art in Spain.
In the 9th century, Ripoll was the power
base from which the local strongman, Guifré
el Pilós (Wilfred the Hairy), succeeded in
uniting several counties of the Frankish March
along the southern side of the Pyrenees. Guifré went on to become the first Count (Comte)
of Barcelona. To encourage repopulation of
the Pyrenees valleys, he founded the Monestir
de Santa Maria, the most powerful monastery
of medieval Catalonia.
Book
366 T H E PY R E N E E S • • Va l l A l t o d e l Te r
VALL ALTO DEL TER
This upper part of the Riu Ter valley reaches
northeast from Ripoll to the pleasant towns
of Sant Joan de les Abadesses and Camprodon, then northwest to the modest Vallter
2000 ski centre (%972 13 60 75; www.vallter2000.com;
day liftpass €26), just below the French border
and at 2150m. It has 12 pistes of all grades,
nine lifts and a ski school, but snow can be
unreliable (most is usually artificial). The
area makes a more pleasant overnight stop
than Ripoll, and from the upper reaches
there are some excellent walks to the Vall de
Núria. Get the Editorial Alpina Puigmal map
guide.
The C38 road leaves the Ter valley at
Camprodon to head over the 1513m Collado
d’Ares into France.
Sant Joan de les Abadesses
pop 3620
In Sant Joan de les Abadesses the restored
12th-century bridge over the Ter and the Museu
del Monestir (%972 72 00 13; Plaça de l’Abadessa; admission €1; h10am-2pm & 4-6pm Oct-Apr, 10am-2pm & 4-7pm
May-Jun & Sep, 10am-7pm Jul & Aug) are worth a look.
Beget
Capping the end of a winding mountain lane
that trails off here into a heavily wooded valley, this hamlet is a joy. The 12th-century
Romanesque church is accompanied by an
implausible array of roughly hewn houses, all
scattered about stone-paved lanes. Through
it gushes a mountain stream. Beget is on the
GR11 walking route.
El Forn (%972 74 12 31; Carrer de Josep Duñach 9; full
board per person €64), a well-kept cosy stone-andtimber house in the heart of the hamlet, is the
best of the handful of accommodation and
eating options.
There is no public transport to Beget.
VALL DE NÚRIA & RIBES DE FRESER
Around AD 700, the story goes, Sant Gil (St
Giles) came from Nîmes in France to live in
a cave in an isolated mountain valley 26km
north of Ripoll, preaching the Gospel to shepherds. Before he left, four years later, apparently fleeing Visigothic persecution, Sant Gil
hurriedly hid away a wooden Virgin-andchild image he had carved, a cross, his cooking
pot and the bell he had used to summon the
shepherds. They stayed hidden until 1079,
when an ox led some shepherds to the spot.
The statuette, the Mare de Déu de Núria, became the patron of Pyrenean shepherds and
Núria’s future was assured. The first historical
mention of a shrine was made in 1162.
Sant Gil would recoil in shock if he came
back today. The large, grey sanctuary complex
squatting at the heart of the valley is an eyesore and the crowds would make anyone with
hermitic leanings run a mile. But otherwise
Núria remains almost pristine, a wide, green,
mountain-ringed bowl that is the starting
point for numerous walks. Getting there is fun
too, either on foot up the Gorges de Núria –
the green, rocky valley of the thundering Riu
Núria – or from Ribes de Freser town, by the
little cremallera, which rises over 1000m on
its 12km journey up the same valley.
Book
T H E PY R E N E E S • • Va l l d e N ú r i a & R i b e s d e F re s e r 367
Santuari de Núria
The large 19th- and 20th-century building
that dominates the valley contains a hotel,
restaurants and exhibition halls as well as
the santuari (sanctuary) itself and its sacred
símbols de Núria. The santuari has the same
opening hours as the information office. The
Mare de Déu de Núria sits behind a glass
screen above the altar and is in the Romanesque style of the 12th century, so either Sant
Gil was centuries ahead of his time or this isn’t
his work! Steps lead up to the bell, cross and
cooking pot (which all date from at least the
15th century). To have your prayer answered,
put your head in the pot and ring the bell
while you say it.
Skiing & Walking
In winter, Núria is a small-scale ski resort
with 10 short runs. A day lift pass costs €24.75
(€20.30 on weekdays).
Walkers should get Editorial Alpina’s Puigmal map guide before coming to Núria. You
can walk up the gorge to Núria but skip the
first unexciting 6km from Ribes de Freser by
taking the cremallera (or road) to Queralbs,
thus saving your energies for the steepest and
the most spectacular part of the approach,
which is about three hours’ walk up. Or take
the cremallera up and walk down!
From the Vall de Núria, you can cap several
2700m-to-2900m peaks on the main Pyrenees
ridge in about 2½ to four hours’ walking for
each (one way). The most popular is Puigmal
(2913m).
.com; Carrer de Balandrau 24; s/d €22/44, half-board per person
€38) A family-run business, this small hotel of-
fers simple rooms with bathroom and TV. The
buffet breakfast is grand – loads of cold meats,
cheeses, juice, cereal and sweet pastries. Or try
their three-star place across the road (halfboard €55), where the best rooms are spacious,
with parquet and timber, and, in some cases,
have a hydromassage bathtub.
QUERALBS
This delightful hamlet of stone houses with
slate roofs makes a prettier base. Try for a room
at Pensió L’Avet (%972 72 73 77; Carrer Major 7; half-board
per person €39; hdaily mid-Jun–mid-Sep, Sat, Sun & holidays
rest of year). It’s a pleasant old house that is the
only option in the village itself (often open
only at weekends and hard to get a hold of).
A couple of restaurants open up on weekends
and during holiday periods.
Transports Mir runs services between Ripoll and Ribes de Freser, with two or three
buses a day Monday to Friday, and one on
Saturday.
Up to seven trains a day run to Ribes–
Enllaç from Ripoll (€1.90, 20 minutes) and
Barcelona (€6.05, 2¼ hours).
The cremallera (%972 73 20 20) is a narrowgauge electric-powered rack-and-pinion railway that has been operating since 1931. It
runs from Ribes–Enllaç to Núria and back
six to 12 times a day; depending on the season
(one way/return €9.55/15.25, 45 minutes one
way). All trains stop at Ribes–Vila and Queralbs (1200m). It’s a spectacular trip, particularly after Queralbs, as the train winds up the
Gorges de Núria. Some services connect with
Renfe trains at Ribes–Enllaç.
NÚRIA
Behind the sanctuary there’s a basic zona
d’acampada (bookings %972 73 20 20; sites per adult/tent
€2/2), a camping area with limited facilities.
Alberg Pic de l’Àliga (%972 73 20 48; dm student &
under 26yr/26yr & over €19/23) The youth hostel is
at the top of the cable car (telecabina) on the
eastern side of the valley. Dorm rooms sleep
from four to 14, and the price includes breakfast. The cable car runs 9am to 6pm daily (to
7pm mid-July to mid-September). On Friday
evenings it also runs to meet the cremallera
train at around 7pm and 9pm.
Hotel Vall de Núria (%972 73 20 20; half-board
per person up to €107) Housed in the sanctuary
.com; h8.30am-5.45pm mid-Sep–mid-Jul, 8.30am-6.45pm
mid-Jul–mid-Sep) is in the sanctuary.
Hotel Els Caçadors (%972 72 70 77; www.hotelsderibes
Wild camping is banned in the whole Ribes
de Freser–Núria area.
Unless you’re walking across the mountains
to Núria, you must approach from the small
town of Ribes de Freser, on the N152 14km
north of Ripoll. The cremallera (rack-andpinion railway) to Núria starts at Ribes–
Enllaç station, just off the N152 at the southern
end of Ribes. There’s a road from Ribes to
Queralbs, but from there on it’s the cremallera
or your feet.
Núria’s tourist office (%972 73 20 20; www.valldenuria
RIBES DE FRESER
Sleeping & Eating
Orientation
Information
building, the hotel has comfortable rooms
with bathroom and satellite TV. Apartments
are also available most of the year.
In the sanctuary building, Autoservei selfservice cafeteria and Bar Finistrelles both have
starters in the €6 region and main courses for
around €10 to €12. La Cabana dels Pastors
specialises in fondue and braised meats (€20
to €25 for a meal). A shop in the sanctuary
building sells food. The bar and restaurant are
closed during slow periods, but the Autoservei
is generally open daily.
C ATA L O N I A
C ATA L O N I A
This monastery, another founded by Guifré
el Pilós, began life as a nunnery but the nuns
were expelled in 1017 for alleged licentious
conduct. Its elegant 12th-century church
contains the marvellous Santíssim Misteri, a
13th-century polychrome woodcarving of the
descent from the cross, composed of seven
life-size figures. Also remarkable is the Gothic
retablo of Santa Maria La Blanca, carved in alabaster. The elegant 15th-century late-Gothic
cloister is charming.
Hostal Janpere (%972 72 00 77; Carrer del Mestre
Andreu 3; s/d per person €20) is one of two simple
hostales here. It has good if somewhat clinical
rooms. Prices haven’t budged in years! You
can opt for half (€25) or full board (€35).
Teisa (%972 70 20 95) operates up to seven
buses daily from Ripoll to Sant Joan de les
Abadesses (€1.15, 15 minutes). One daily bus
runs from Barcelona (Carrer de Pau Claris 117) at 7.15pm to Camprodon via Ripoll
(€8.85, two hours).
lonelyplanet.com
368 T H E PY R E N E E S • • C e r d a n y a
lyplanet.com
CERDANYA
Cerdanya, along with French Cerdagne across
the border, occupies a low-lying basin between
the higher reaches of the Pyrenees to the east
and west. Although Cerdanya and Cerdagne,
once a single Catalan county, were divided by
the Treaty of the Pyrenees in 1659, they still
have a lot in common. Walkers should get a
hold of Editorial Alpina’s Cerdanya map and
guide booklet (scaled at 1:50,000).
Puigcerdà
pop 8850
Just 2km from the French border, Puigcerdà
(puh-cher-da) is not much more than a way
station, but it’s a jolly one, particularly in
summer and during the ski season. A dozen
0
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PUIGCERDÀ
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A
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INFORMATION
Hospital de Puigcerdà.........................1 A3
Post Office.........................................2 B3
Tourist Office.....................................3 A4
1
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Església de Sant Domènec...................4 B3
Església de Santa Maria......................5 A3
SLEEPING
Hotel Del Lago...................................6 A2
ENTERTAINMENT
Discoteca Gatzara.............................10 A3
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Puigcerdà stands on a small hill, with the
train station at the foot of its southwest side.
A few minutes’ climb up some flights of steps
takes you to Plaça de l’Ajuntament, off which
is the tourist office (%972 88 05 42; Carrer de Querol
1; h9am-1pm & 4-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm & 4.30-7pm
Sat, 10am-1pm Sun).
The Hospital de Puigcerdà (%972 88 01 50; Plaça
de Santa Maria 1) is up the road from the tourist
office.
SIGHTS
The town was heavily damaged during the civil
war and only the tower remains of the 17thcentury Església de Santa Maria (Plaça de Santa Maria).
The 13th-century Gothic Església de Sant Domènec
(Passeig del 10 d’Abril) was also wrecked but later rebuilt. It contains 14th-century Gothic murals
that somehow survived (opening times are
erratic). The estany in the north of town, created back in 1380 for irrigation, is surrounded
by turn-of-the-20th-century summer houses,
built by wealthy Barcelona families.
into this rustic, welcoming den in the heart
of the town for a serving of lovingly prepared
Catalan dishes with an original touch. A sweet
and savoury combination is the colomí amb
tòfona negre i salsa d’albercoc sec (pigeon with
black truffles and dry apricot sauce).
El Pati de la Tieta (%972 88 01 56; Carrer dels Ferrers
20; pizza €9, meals €35-45; hdaily in high season, Thu-Sun
Jul-May) One of the best choices, this understated
restaurant offers a creative range of dishes,
from broquetes de cangur i verdures (kangaroo
on a skewer with vegetables) to vieires a la
crema de coliflor i pisto de coriandre (coquille
St Jacques in a cauliflower cream sauce with
coriander stew). Shame about the gaudy plastic
seats in this rustic stone setting.
ENTERTAINMENT
Discoteca Gatzara (%972 88 07 57; Rambla de Josep Martí
1; h10pm-5am Tue-Sun) This club has been keeping Puigcerdà’s après-ski set dancing into the
wee hours for years now. It remains a classic
and is easy to roll home from. A couple of
others are located outside town and require
transport to reach.
SLEEPING
Bus
The town is home to 13 varied hotels and
pensiones.
Càmping Stel (%972 88 23 61; www.stel.es; sites
per 2-person tent & car €31.50; hJun-Sep; sp) Out
along the road to Llívia, this is the only nearby
camping option and a pleasant one, with a
pool, basketball and a football pitch. You can
also rent bungalows by the month between
October and May.
Hotel del Lago (%972 88 10 00; www.hotellago.com;
Avinguda del Dr Piguillem 7; s/d €81/118; pis) Near
the estany (lake), this hotel has old-fashioned
style and a nice leafy garden. The rooms vary
greatly: some have heavy timber beams, while
corner ones have windows opening in several
directions out to the leafy exterior. The best
doubles have hydromassage bathtubs.
Alsina Graells runs two daily buses (one at
weekends) from Barcelona (€15, three hours)
via the 5km Túnel del Cadí and two or three to
La Seu d’Urgell (€5.10, one hour). They stop
at the train station.
Car & Motorcycle
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EATING
From Barcelona, the C16 approaches Puigcerdà through the Túnel del Cadí. Bicycles are
not allowed in the tunnel, which is a tollway.
The N152 from Ribes de Freser climbs west
along the northern flank of the Rigard valley, with the pine-covered Serra de Mogrony
rising to the south, to the 1800m Collado de
Toses (pass), then winds down to Puigcerdà.
The main crossing into France is at BourgMadame, immediately east of Puigcerdà,
from where roads head to Perpignan and
Toulouse.
Braseria St Jordi (%972 94 03 66: Plaça de Cabrinetty 15;
meals €20-25; hMon-Sat) A cheerful spot for all
Train
sorts of meat goodies, this makes an inviting,
modestly priced option. Try for a seat by the
window for the valley views and tuck into a
filet de bou (fillet of beef; €15.50).
Six trains a day run from Barcelona to Puigcerdà (€7.90, 3¼ hours) via Ripoll and
Ribes de Freser. Five in each direction make
the seven-minute hop over the border to
T H E PY R E N E E S • • C e r d a n y a 369
Latour-de-Carol in France, where they connect with trains from Toulouse or Paris, and
with the narrow-gauge Train Jaune (yellow
train) down the Têt Valley to Perpignan.
Llívia
Six kilometres northeast of Puigcerdà, across
flat farmland, Llívia is a piece of Spain within
France. Under the 1659 Treaty of the Pyrenees, Spain ceded 33 villages to France, but
Llívia was a ‘town’ and so, together with the 13
sq km of its municipality, remained a Spanish
possession.
The interest of Llívia’s tiny medieval nucleus,
near the top of the town, centres on the Museu
Municipal (%972 89 63 13; Carrer dels Forns 4; admission €1;
h10am-7pm Mon-Sat Jul-Aug, 10am-7pm Tue-Sat Jun & Sep,
10am-6pm Tue-Sat Apr-May, 10am-4.30pm Tue-Sat Oct-Mar,
10am-2pm Sun & holidays year-round) and the 15th-
century Gothic Església de Nostra Senyora dels
Àngels, just above the museum. The museum
is in what’s claimed to be Europe’s oldest pharmacy, the Farmacia Esteva, founded in 1415.
From the church you can walk up to the ruined
Castell de Llívia where, during the short-lived
period of Islamic dominion in the Pyrenees,
the Muslim governor Manussa enjoyed a secret
dalliance with Lampègia, daughter of the Duke
of Aquitaine (or so legend has it).
Dine on the balconies of Restaurant Can
Ventura (%972 89 61 78; Plaça Major 1; meals €30-35;
hWed-Sun), a ramshackle building dating from
1791. The food is delightful – traditional Catalan fare that comes from a discreetly hidden
modern kitchen.
Two or three buses a day run from Puigcerdà train station to Llívia. Otherwise, it’s
not a long walk, and the road is flat and quiet.
You only cross about 2km of France before
entering the Llívia enclave.
La Molina & Masella
These ski resorts lie either side of Tosa d’Alp
(2537m), 15km south of Puigcerdà, and are
linked by the Alp 2500 lift. The two resorts
have a combined total of 96 runs (day lift
pass for the whole area €33) of all grades at
altitudes of 1600m to 2537m. Information,
rental equipment and ski schools are available
at both resorts (%972 89 20 31, www.lamolina.com;
%972 14 40 00, www.masella.com).
SLEEPING
Many skiers choose to stay in Puigcerdà or
further afield.
C ATA L O N I A
lS
To Camping Stel (800m);
Bourg-Madame (1km);
French Border (1km);
Llívia (6km)
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C ATA L O N I A
Cat
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To La Molina (15km);
Ribes de Freser (46km);
La Seu d'Urgell (50km);
Barcelona (155km)
inguda de
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Train Plaça de
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ORIENTATION & INFORMATION
La Vila (%972 14 08 04; Carrer d’Alfons I 34; meals
€35; hlunch & dinner Tue-Sat, lunch only Sun) Wander
EATING
Braseria St Jordi..................................7 B4
El Pati de la Tieta................................8 A3
La Vila................................................9 B3
2
Spanish, Andorran and French ski resorts lie
within 45km. At a height of just over 1200m,
Puigcerdà is the capital of Cerdanya.
Book
370 T H E PY R E N E E S • • S e r r a d e l C a d í
Alberg Mare de Déu de les Neus (%972 89 20
12; dm student & under 26yr/26yr & over €19/23; p) At
the bottom part of La Molina, near the train
station, this is a handy youth hostel. Rooms
range from doubles to eight-bed dorms. Many
of the rooms have a bathroom.
Hotel Adserà (%972 89 20 01; www.hoteladsera
.com; half-board per person from €69; ps) From the
rooms of this mountain hotel, surrounded
by greenery, the eye takes in the sweep of the
valleys below. The rooms and public areas
have warm parquet floors. The hotel has a
pool (for the summer) and activities ranging
from table tennis to archery.
In the ski season there’s a bus service from
Puigcerdà. Most people come by car; the
easiest route from Barcelona is by the C58
toll road and the C16 through the Túnel del
Cadí. Roads also wind down to La Molina
and Masella from the N152 west of the Collado de Toses.
The N260 Hwy runs southwest from Puigcerdà along the Riu Segre valley towards La
Seu d’Urgell. It cuts its path between the main
Pyrenees chain to the north and the range
made up mainly of the Serra del Cadí and
Serra de Moixeró to the south. Up to three
buses a day run along this valley between
Puigcerdà and La Seu d’Urgell.
About 6km from Puigcerdà, Bolvir has a
little Romanesque church and, more importantly, a luxurious and characterful place to
stay, Torre del Remei (right).
Another kilometre on from Bolvir, take
the Ger turn-off for an excursion into the
mountains. A minor asphalted road winds
its way west and north through the broad,
arid Valltova Valley to Meranges, a dishevelled,
stone farming village that makes few concessions to the passing tourist trade. You can
stay in the charming Can Borrell (%972 88 00 33;
www.canborrell.com; Carrer de Retorn 3; s/d from €78/91),
a rustic hideaway tastefully decorated for a
modestly discerning clientele. The rooms are
all different, loaded with timber beams and
high ceilings, and there is also a fine restaurant
(meals €35), where the meals are prepared
with mostly local products. You can opt for
family rooms.
Those with cars can proceed along a sliver
of road to the Refugi de Malniu (hdaily Jun-Sep,
AUTHOR’S CHOICE
Torre del Remei (%972 14 01 82; www
.torredelremei.com; Camí Reial s/n, Bolvir;
d €257-385; pas) This tastefully decorated Modernista mansion (which during
the civil war was requisitioned as a school
and later as a hospital by the Republican
government) sits majestically amid tranquil gardens, and is a romantic and stylish
getaway. The rooms, exquisitely furnished
and each one different, are superb and the
dining is equally tempting. You can go to
gastronomic heaven for €70 to €80 a head.
Big spenders could try the main tower suite
(€664).
Book
the B400 about 1km west of Saldes. Park at
the Mirador de Gresolet (nice views), from
where it’s a 10-minute walk up to the refuge.
the refugi is the reed-covered Estany Sec (the
misnamed Dry Lake). The refugi is on the
path of the long-distance GR11 walk, which
approaches from Guils de Cerdanya (also
reachable by car) in the east, and continues
west to Andorra.
SERRA DEL CADÍ
The N260 runs west along the wide Riu Segre
valley from Puigcerdà to La Seu d’Urgell, with
the Pyrenees climbing northwards towards
Andorra, and the craggy pre-Pyrenees range
of the Serra del Cadí rising steep and high
along the southern flank. Although this face
of the Cadí – rocky and fissured by ravines
known as canales – looks daunting enough,
the range’s most spectacular peak is Pedraforca
(2497m), a southern offshoot with the most
challenging rock-climbing in Catalonia. Pedraforca and the main Cadí range also offer
some excellent mountain walking for those
suitably equipped and experienced.
and requires a good head for heights. It’s not
suitable for coming down: you must use the
first route.
Information
Gósol, Tuixén & Beyond
The Parc Natural del Cadí-Moixeró’s main
Centre d’Informació (%938 24 41 51; Carrer de la Vinya 1;
The B400 is paved from Saldes to the pretty
stone village of Gósol, 6km further west.
The original Gósol (the Vila Vella), which
dated back to at least the 9th century, is now
abandoned on the hill south of the present
village.
A road west from Gósol climbs the 1625m
Coll de Josa pass, then descends past the picturesque hamlet of Josa del Cadí to Tuixén
(1206m), another attractive village on a small
hill and sometimes written Tuixent. From
Tuixén, scenic paved roads lead northwest
to La Seu d’Urgell (36km) and south to Sant
Llorenç de Morunys (28km), which is on a
beautiful cross-country road from Berga to
Organyà.
h9am-1.30pm & 3.30-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm & 4-6.30pm
Sat, 9am-1pm Sun & holidays) is in Bagà, a quiet village
(walk down to the stone bridge that crosses
the stream) 4km north of Guardiola de Berguedà on the C16.
In Saldes, the Centre d’Informació Massís del
Pedraforca (%938 25 80 46; h10am-2pm & 5-7.30pm
Mon-Tue & Thu-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun Jul-Aug, 11am-1pm
Mon-Tue & Thu-Fri, 11am-2pm & 5-7pm Sat, 11am-2pm Sun
Sep-Jun) has information on the Saldes and
Pedraforca area only.
Sat & Sun rest of year), at 2130m. Right behind
T H E PY R E N E E S • • S e r r a d e l C a d í 371
Walking
PEDRAFORCA
The name means ‘stone fork’ and the approach from the east makes it clear why.
The two separate rocky peaks, the northern
Pollegó Superior (2497m) and the southern
Pollegó Inferior (2400m), are divided by a
saddle called L’Enforcadura. The northern
face, rising near vertically for 600m, has some
classic rock climbs; the southern has a wall
that sends alpinists into raptures.
Pedraforca is also possible for walkers.
From Refugi Lluís Estasen you can reach
the Pollegó Superior summit in about three
strenuous hours – either southwards from the
refuge, then up the middle of the fork from
the southeastern side (a path from Saldes joins
this route); or westwards up to the Collada del
Verdet, then south and east to the summit.
The latter route has some hairy precipices
Sleeping & Eating
SALDES & AROUND
There are at least four camping grounds along
the B400 between the C16 and Saldes, some
open year-round. In Saldes you’ll find a handful of pensiones and a larger hotel.
Refugi Lluís Estasen (%608 31 53 12; hdaily JunSep; Sat, Sun & holidays rest of year) Run by the FEEC
and near the Mirador de Gresolet, this refugi
has 87 places, meals and a warden in summer.
In winter it has about 30 places. When it’s full
you can sleep outside, but not in a tent.
GÓSOL & TUIXÉN
You’ll find a handful of cases rurals in both
villages, although some are rented out only on
weekends or for a week at a time in summer.
INTREPID TREMENTINAIRES
Orientation
The Pedraforca area is most easily reached
from the C16, then along the B400, which
heads west 1.5km south of Guardiola de Berguedà. Pedraforca looms mightily into view
about halfway to the village of Saldes, which
sits 1215m high at its foot, 15km from the C16.
The main Cadí range runs east–west, about
5km north of Saldes. The Refugi Lluís Estasen
(see opposite) nestles below the northern face
of Pedraforca, 2.5km northwest of Saldes.
You can reach it by footpath from Saldes or
by a partly paved road that turns north off
As late as the 1960s, the village of Tuixén was known for its natural herbs and remedies and
for the extraordinary women who would head off (often on foot) to sell them, the so-called
Trementinaires (named after trementina, or turpentine, which was one of their more popular
items). Since the late 19th century, these wandering saleswomen would head off for as long as
four months and walk as far afield as Barcelona, leaving their menfolk behind to tend the fields
and farm animals, and only returned home when they had sold all their wares. Among the latter
were te de roca (‘rock tea’ for upset tummies) and orella d’ós (‘bear’s ear’ for coughs and colds).
The women generally travelled in pairs, but even so, unaccompanied women travellers were
otherwise virtually unheard of in Spain, much less from deep inland villages! The last Trementinaire, Sofia d’Ossera, undertook her last trip in 1982! You can learn more about these women in
Tuixén’s Museu de les Trementinaires (%973 37 00 30; admission free; h11am-2pm & 5-8pm daily
Easter & Jul-Sep, 11am-2pm & 5-8pm Sat & Sun rest of the year), on the village square.
C ATA L O N I A
C ATA L O N I A
Northern Cerdanya
lyplanet.com
Passeig del
BUS
isme; Avinguda de les Valls d’Andorra 33; h9am-9pm
Jul-Aug, 10am-2pm & 4-6.30pm Mon-Sat Sep-Jun) At the
northern entrance to town.
Set in a castle in a hilltop jumble of lanes
about 1.5km west of central La Seu, this spa
hotel is a world of its own. Run by the Relais
& Châteaux team, it is the classiest hotel for
miles around, with soothing gardens, a gym,
sauna and gourmet restaurant.
The bus station is on the northern edge of
the old town. Alsina Graells (%973 35 00 20) runs
four or five buses daily to Barcelona (€20.80,
3½ hours): two each via Solsona and Ponts,
and one, which does not run on Sunday,
via the Túnel del Cadí. There are also three
to Puigcerdà (€5.10, one hour) and two to
Lleida (€14.15, 2½ hours).
Catedral de Santa Maria
& Museu Diocesà
On the southern side of Plaça dels Oms, the
12th-century seu (cathedral; admission free; h10am-1pm
outstanding Romanesque buildings despite
various remodellings. It’s one of more than a
hundred Romanesque churches lining what has
come to be known as the Ruta Románica, from
Perpignan (France) to the Urgell district.
Eating
Cal Pacho (%973 35 27 19; Carrer de la Font 11; meals
€15-20; hMon-Sat) Hidden away in the old town,
this is a marvellous den serving old-fashioned
local grub. Try a dish of cargols a la llauna
(baked snails; €10) or cabrit at forn (roast
kid). The menú del día offers a broad variety
of options for €8.50.
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a homy spot, where you can chow down on
mixed Spanish cuisine in the peaceful garden.
It presents an array of options taking in fish,
seafood and meat mains. The mitjana de cavall amb alls (horsemeat prepared in garlic) is
hearty at €16.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
The N260 Hwy heads 6km southwest to
Adrall, then turns off west over the hills to
Sort. The C14 carries on south to Lleida,
threading the towering Tresponts gorge about
13km beyond Adrall.
VALL DE LA NOGUERA PALLARESA
The Riu Noguera Pallaresa, running south
through a dramatic valley about 50km west of
La Seu d’Urgell, is Spain’s best-known whitewater river. The main centres for white-water
sports are the town of Sort and the villages of
Rialp and Llavorsí. You’ll find companies to
take you rafting, hydrospeeding, canoeing and
kayaking or canyoning, climbing, mountain
biking, horse riding and ponting (basically
bungee jumping from bridges).
The main tourist office (%973 62 10 02; Avinguda
dels Comtes del Pallars 21; h9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm &
3pm Sat, 10am-1pm Sun Jul-Aug, 9am-3pm & 4-6.30pm MonFri, 10am-2.30pm Sat Sep-Jun) for the area is in Sort.
White-Water Rafting
The Riu Noguera Pallaresa has no drops of
more than grade 4 (on a scale of 1 to 6), but it’s
exciting enough to attract a constant stream of
white-water fans between April and August.
It’s usually at its best in May and June.
The best stretch is the 14km or so from Llavorsí to Rialp, on which the standard raft outing
lasts one to 1½ hours and costs €30 to €35 per
person depending on the company and season.
C ATA L O N I A
& 4-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-1pm Sun Jun-Sep, 10am-1pm & 4-6pm
Mon-Sat, 10am-1pm Sun Oct-May) is one of Catalonia’s
Cd
e
i M Garrig
asso
u a
Parc
lira
TRANSPORT
Bus Station...........................11 C1
.com; Castellciutat; s/d up to €343/396; pais)
Hospital (%973 35 00 50; Passeig de Joan Brudieu 8).
Policía Municipal (%973 35 04 26; Plaça dels Oms 1)
C ATA L O N I A
SLEEPING
Hotel Avenida........................6 B2
nonges
Carrer dels Ca
EATING
Cal Pacho..............................9 C3
Restaurant Les Tres Portes....10 B2
In the Casa de la Ciutat (Town Hall).
Information
u
Brudie
Joan
ig de
rrt
Passe
Guita
Bisbe
r del
Carre
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Catedral de Santa Maria........4 C2
Museu Diocesá......................5 C2
Tourist office (%973 35 15 11; www.laseu.org/tur
The lively valley town of La Seu d’Urgell (la se-u
dur-zhey) is Spain’s gateway to Andorra, 10km
to the north. It’s a pleasant place to spend a
night, with an admirable medieval cathedral.
When the Franks evicted the Muslims from
this part of the Pyrenees, in the early 9th century, they made La Seu a bishopric and capital
of the counts of Urgell. It has been an important market and cathedral town since the 11th
century.
t
nt O
e Sa
er d
Carr
Parador..................................
e7r C2
re Jan
la Ma
Pensió Jove............................
8 C2
rer de
Restaurant Les Tres Portes (%973 35 29 07; Carrer
de Garriga i Massou 7; meals €30-35; hThu-Sun) This is
pop 12,320
Cerd
Ral de
í de
Cam
8
C Alla
Cape
INFORMATION
Hospital.................................1 C3
Policía Municipal....................2 C2
Post Office.............................3 B3
r
Majo
Carrer
Plaça de
Catalunya
3
To Puigcerdà (50km)
11
Carrer
del Bisbe
Benlloch
Plaça del
Carme
ulueta
Josep de Z
Carrer de
ell
illem Gra
Sant
C de èn
Dom ec
ris
6
Pensió Jové (%973 35 02 60; Carrer dels Canonges 42; r per
person €15) One of two basic digs on the same
street in the old town, this place has clean, simple rooms with basin and shared bathroom.
Hotel Avenida (%973 35 01 04; www.avenhotel.com;
Avinguda de Pau Claris 24; s/d €33/56) This hotel has a
range of mostly sunny rooms. Although not
overly characterful, the rooms are big enough
and kept spick-and-span. Its Italian restaurant,
Miscela, is not bad.
Parador (%973 35 20 00; www.parador.es; Carrer de Sant
Domènec s/n; s/d €103/129; pas) Built around
the restored cloister of the 14th-century Sant
Domènec convent, this is a modern establishment. Rooms are comfortable without being
luxurious. What makes it is the setting, and
extra touches such as the pool and sauna.
Hotel El Castell (%973 35 00 00; www.hotelelcastell
LA SEU D’URGELL
10
C la
Carrer de Sant Erme
ngol
J
de sso
Avg a Ma
rrig
Ga
Carrer de Llorenc Tomàs i Costa
Sleeping
To Hotel El
Castell (1.5km)
a de G e
Avingud
u
e Pa
da d
You need your own vehicle to reach Saldes,
Gósol or Tuixén.
Carrer de la Rege
ncia d'Urgell
Plaça de
Mossèn
Pere Pujol
d'A
u
ving
rraA
ndo
some good medieval Pyrenean church murals, sculptures and altarpieces, and a rare
10th-century Mozarabic Beatus (illustrated
manuscript of the Apocalypse).
Lafuerza
ll
Carrer del Comtat d'Urge
h10am-1pm & 4-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-1pm Sun Jun-Sep, 10am1pm & 4-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am-1pm Sun Oct-May) as well as
Carrer de Joaquim Viola
lls
del Valir
a
Carrer de la Germandat de Sant Sebastià
Parc
del
Valira
200m
0.1miles
Va
fine cloister and the 12th-century Romanesque Església de Sant Miquel (€1.50 without Museu;
0
0
les
ell.org; admission €2.50; h10am-1pm & 4-7pm Mon-Sat,
10am-1pm Sun Jun-Sep, noon-1pm Mon-Sat, 11am-1pm Sun
Oct-May). This good museum encompasses the
La
Seu
d'Urgell
Avingud
a
del Salória
This bakery doubles as a homy restaurant.
Tuck into filling and tasty local food, such as a
tender filet de vedella (fillet of beef). The menú
del día is good lunch value at €11.
Can Farragetes (%973 37 00 34; www.calfarragetes
.com; Carrer del Coll 7, Tuixén; d €23 per person; p) A big,
friendly stone place set over two floors around
a sprawling courtyard, this country village
house has smallish but immaculate rooms featuring iron bedsteads and wood panelling.
To Tourist Office (500m);
Andorra (9km)
Avinguda
Gósol; meals €15-18; hlunch daily, dinner only Fri & Sat)
LA SEU D'URGELL
de
house with its own courtyard contains smallish spick-and-span rooms that are as good as
any in the cases rurals.
Forn Cal Moixó (%973 37 02 74; Carrer del Canal 2,
The fine western façade, through which
you enter, is decorated in typical Lombard
style. The inside is dark and plain but still
impressive, with five apses, some murals in the
southern transept, and a 13th-century Virginand-child sculpture in the central apse.
From inside the cathedral you can enter the
Museu Diocesà (%973 35 32 42; www.museudiocesaurg
T H E PY R E N E E S • • Va l l d e l a N o g u e r a Pa l l a re s a 373
lonelyplanet.com
da
ngu
Avi
Cal Fusté (%973 37 00 83; Plaça Major 9, Gósol; d
€35) Right in the middle of town, this stone
lyplanet.com
Riu V
a
372 T H E PY R E N E E S • • L a S e u d ’ U r g e l l
374 T H E PY R E N E E S • • N o r t h w e s t e r n Va l l e y s
A trip down the same stretch on a hydrospeed
costs from €34 (5km) up to €60 (14km). Longer
rides to Sort and beyond will cost more.
At least one company, Yeti Emotions (%973 62
22 01; www.yetiemotions.com; Carrer de Borda Era d’Alfons s/n,
Llavorsí), organises high-grade trips, for experi-
enced rafters only, further upstream. Several
other rafting companies operate from Llavorsí
and other points like Sort. Canoeing trips on
the same river start at €34 per hour.
You need to bring your own swimming
costume, towel and a change of clothes. All
other gear is usually provided.
Sleeping
Llavorsí is the most pleasant base, much more
of a mountain village than Rialp or Sort, with a
couple of camping grounds and four hotels.
Camping Aigües Braves (%973 62 21 53; sites per
2-person tent & car €18; hmid-Mar–Aug; ps) About
1km north of Llavorsí proper, this pleasant
riverside camping ground has a pool, restaurant and mini-market.
Hotel Riberies (%973 62 20 51; www.riberies.com;
Camí de Riberies s/n; s/d €83/133; ps) This is by far
the most pleasant choice. Timber ceilings and
wooden floors give the spacious rooms a warm
feel, and the price includes breakfast. Throw
in comfort factors like the verdant site, good
restaurant and a heated swimming pool.
Alsina Graells runs one daily bus (at 7.30am)
from Barcelona to Sort, Rialp, Llavorsí (€26.50,
5½ hours) and Esterri d’Àneu (€28.30). From
June to October it continues to Vielha (€32.90)
and the Val d’Aran. The return bus leaves
Llavorsí at 1.56pm. The Barcelona–Vielha
trip is shorter and cheaper via Lleida (€27.60,
5½ hours)
North of the highway that leads northwest
from Llavorsí towards the Port de Bonaigua
pass, stretches a series of verdant valleys leading up to some of the most beautiful sights in
the Catalan Pyrenees.
The Vall de Cardòs and Vall Ferrera, heading back into the hills northeast of Llavorsí,
lead to some remote and, in parts, tough
mountain walking country along and across
the Andorran and French borders, including
Pica d’Estats, the highest peak in Catalonia.
Editorial Alpina’s Pica d’Estats and Montgarri
maps will help.
T H E PY R E N E E S • • Pa r c N a c i o n a l d ’ A i g ü e s t o r t e s i E s t a n y d e S a n t M a u r i c i & A r o u n d 375
Vall de Cardòs
Valls d’Àneu
Heading north into the hills along the L504
road from Llavorsí, this pretty valley leads to
challenging mountain-walking possibilities.
Editorial Alpina’s Pica d’Estats map-guide
is useful here. There is no public transport
up the valley.
Lladrós and Lladorre, the latter graced with
a charming Romanesque church, are pretty
stone hamlets oozing bucolic charm. Tavascan
marks the end of the asphalt road. It’s a huddle of well-kept houses and a launch pad for
numerous excursions. The most stunning
piece of scenery is a crystal-blue glacial lake
(the largest in the Pyrenees), Estany de Certascan, about 13km away along a tough road
best negotiated by 4WD. Just out of view of
the lake is the Refugi de Certascan (%973 62 13
89; €13; hdaily early mid-Jun–mid-Sep, some weekends &
holidays rest of year), which has room for 40 people,
showers and offers meals. More trails and
lakes await in this frontier mountain territory.
The valley’s towns are littered with charming
cases de pagès (country guesthouses), along
with three hotels in Tavascan.
To proceed to the next valleys west, you return
to Llavorsí and the C13 Hwy, along which
you proceed north. After 12km you pass the
turn-off on the left for Espot – this is the
most popular way into the Parc Nacional
d’Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici.
Six kilometres further on from the turnoff, after passing an artificial lake on the right
where you can hire rowing boats and canoes
to potter about in, you’ll arrive at Esterri d’Àneu,
a popular, if distant, base for the ski fields
of Baqueira–Beret (p380) in the Val d’Aran.
Of the various valleys that make up the Valls
d’Àneu, the Vall d’Isil is the most intriguing.
Follow the C13 directly north through Esterri
d’Àneu and it will lead you over a bridge across
the Riu Noguera Pallaresa. You then follow
this back road (the C147) up into a mountain
valley, passing through the villages of Borén, Isil
and the half-abandoned Alós d’Isil.
Vall Ferrera
Greener than the Vall de Cardòs and at the
heart of the Parc Natural de l’Alt Pirineu
(Catalonia’s biggest nature reserve), this valley is another pleasant surprise, hiding several
pretty villages and bringing even more good
walking country within reach. The ascent of
the Pica d’Estats (3143m), the region’s highest peak, is generally undertaken from here.
There is no public transport.
The prettiest hamlet, Àreu, is a popular base
for walkers. It is divided into two separate
settlements, each with a Romanesque church:
Sant Climent is in the lower part and Sant
Feliu de la Força up the road. The ascent of
and return from the Pica d’Estats is an allday affair and only for the fit. You need to
be at the Refugi de Vall Ferrera (%973 62 43 78;
hEaster & mid-Jun–mid-Oct), 10km to the north
of Àreu, at dawn. On the way up you will
pass glacial lakes, high pastures and everchanging scenery, before ascending the bare
rocky summit.
There are several cases de pagès and one
hotel in Àreu, and more options in Alins. Casa
Besolí (%973 62 44 15; La Plaça s/n; d €40), in the lower
part of the village, is one of the few that rents
out rooms by the night. Rooms are small but
immaculately kept affairs.
PARC NACIONAL D’AIGÜESTORTES I
ESTANY DE SANT MAURICI & AROUND
Catalonia’s only national park extends 20km
east to west, and only 9km from north to
south, but packs in more beauty than most
areas 100 times its size. The product of glacial
action over two million years, it’s essentially
two east–west valleys at 1600m to 2000m altitude lined by jagged 2600m to 2900m peaks of
granite and slate. Against this backdrop, pine
and fir forests, and open bush and grassland,
bedecked with wildflowers in spring, combine with some 200 small estanys (lakes) and
countless streams and waterfalls to create a
wilderness of rare splendour.
The national park, whose boundaries cover
141.2 sq km, lies at the core of a wider wilderness area, whose outer limit is known as the
zona perifèrica and includes some magnificent
high country to the north and south. The total
area covered by the wilderness area is 408.5 sq
km and is monitored by park rangers.
Orientation
APPROACHES
The main approaches are via the village of Espot
(1320m), 4km east of the park’s eastern boundary, and Boí, 5.5km from the western side.
THE PARK
The two main valleys are those of the Riu
Escrita in the east and the Riu de Sant Nicolau in the west. The Escrita flows out of the
park’s largest lake, the 1km-long Estany de
Sant Maurici. The Sant Nicolau’s main source
is Estany Llong, 4km west of Estany de Sant
Maurici across the 2423m Portarró d’Espot
pass. Three kilometres downstream from Estany Llong, the Sant Nicolau runs through
a particularly beautiful stretch known as
Aigüestortes (Twisted Waters).
Apart from the valley openings at the eastern and western ends, virtually the whole
perimeter of the park is mountain crests, with
numerous spurs of almost equal height reaching in towards the centre. One of these, from
the south, ends in the twin peaks Els Encantats
(2746m and 2733m), towering over Estany
de Sant Maurici.
MAPS & GUIDES
Editorial Alpina’s map guides are adequate,
although they don’t show every single trail.
Sant Maurici – Els Encantats covers the eastern half of the park and its approaches; Vall de
Boí covers the western half and its approaches;
Montsent de Pallars covers the northern Vall
Fosca; and Val d’Aran, naturally, covers the
Val d’Aran. A better map of the whole area
is the Institut Cartogràfic de Catalunya’s
Parc Nacional d’Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant
Maurici, scaled at 1:25,000 – but even it is not
perfect. The help of guides can be enlisted at
the Espot and Boí information offices.
Information
TOURIST INFORMATION
In Espot, there are national park information offices (%973 62 40 36; h9am-1pm & 3.30-6.45pm daily
Jun-Sep, 9am-2pm & 3.30-5.45pm Mon-Sat, 9am-2pm Sun
Oct-May) and Boí (%973 69 61 89; hsame as Espot
office). The tourist office (%973 69 40 00; h9am-2pm
& 5-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun) in Barruera, on the
L500, 10km north from the N230, is a good
source of information on the area around the
west side of the park. A sub-branch is open at
Taüll in Easter and June to September (same
opening times). Offices south of the park are
located in El Pont de Suert (%973 69 06 40) and La
Pobla de Segur (%973 68 02 57).
PARK RULES
Private vehicles cannot enter the park. Wild
camping is not allowed, nor are swimming or
other ‘aquatic activities’ in the lakes and rivers.
Hunting, fishing, mushroom-picking and just
about every other kind of potentially harmful
activity are banned.
C ATA L O N I A
C ATA L O N I A
NORTHWESTERN VALLEYS
lyplanet.com
376 T H E PY R E N E E S • • Pa r c N a c i o n a l d ’ A i g ü e s t o r t e s i E s t a n y d e S a n t M a u r i c i & A r o u n d
T H E PY R E N E E S • • Pa r c N a c i o n a l d ’ A i g ü e s t o r t e s i E s t a n y d e S a n t M a u r i c i & A r o u n d 377
PARC NACIONAL D'AIGÜESTORTES I ESTANY DE SANT MAURICI
ὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈὈ
Riu
Ga
ron
a
Beret
To France
(20km)
Salardú
Casau
Tredòs
Baqueira
Escunhau
Baqueira- Cap de
Beret
Baqueria
(2500m)
Alós d'lsil
Pall
ares
a
Arties
Vielha
Refugi Espitau de
Vielha (Boca Sud)
rties
e Vala
ud
Ri
Lac T rt
de Rius
Refugi de Colomèrs
No
Riu
Borén
Sorpe
Isavarre
C28
Lac Major
de ColomŁrs
Zona PerifŁrica
Refugi del
Gerdar
València
d'Àneu
Esterri
d'Àneu
Refugi Saborèdo
Port de
Refugi Gerber-Mataró
To Llavorsí (15km);
Refugi Ventosa Ratero Circ de
SaborŁdo
Barcelona (220km)
Pics de Bassiero
i Calvell
(2530m) (2310m)
(2900m)
Estany Gran d’Amitges
Estany
de
Refugi Pla
(2350m)
Estany de
Co lomŁrs
Negre
Refugi
de la Font
Cavallers
d'Amitges Estany de Ratero
Pic de
Riu
Refugi de
(2530m)
Portarr
Comaloforno
l'Estany Llong d’Espot (2423m)
(3033m)
Parc Nacional
Refugi Ernest Mallafré
Estany de
Estany
D’aig estortes I
Espot
Llong Sant Maurici Els Encantats
Estany de Sant
Caldes
(1300m)
(1950m)
(1985m)
Maurici
(2746m)
de Boí
Refugi La
Aig estortes
Super
Estany de Refugi Josep
Centraleta
(Twisted Water)
Espot
Monestero Maria Blanc
Planell Gran
(2171m)
(2350m)
Nicolau Estany Gran de
nt
Pic
de
Peguera
Coll
de
Sa
e
Dellui (2370m)
Riu d
(2983m)
Peguera
Estany Negre
(2726m)
de Peguera
Pic de Dellui
Estany de
(2803m)
Colomina Collada de
Erill la Vall
Estany
Sabur
(2395m)
Boí (1240m)
Tort
(2630m)
Refugi Colomina
Taüll
Estany
Barruera
Gento
de
To
rt
ita
cr
era Rib
agor ana
Àrreu
Es
ogu
Port de la Bonaigua
(2072m)
rc
Ci
Riu
N
Montard
(2830m)
Lac de
Mar
Refugi
Besiberri
N230
da
Ru
de
Refugi de la
Restanca
Isil
otx
Aiguam
Riu d’
Túnel de
Vielha
gu
Riu
era
N230
era
Durro
Zona PerifŁrica
Sallente
Reservoir
Ri
u
gu
No
L500
L503
The Vall de Boí (www.vallboi.com), southwest of
the park, is dotted with some of Catalonia’s
loveliest little Romanesque churches, which
together were declared a Unesco World Heritage site in 2000. Two of the finest are at Taüll,
3km east of Boí. Sant Climent de Taüll, at the entrance to the village, with its slender six-storey
bell tower, is a gem, not only for its elegant,
simple lines but also for the art that once
graced its interior until the works were transferred to museums in the 20th century. The
central apse contains a copy of a famous 1123
mural that now resides in Barcelona’s Museu
Nacional d’Art de Catalunya (see p299). At
the church’s centre is a Pantocrator (Christ
figure), whose rich Mozarabic-influenced col-
Walking
The park is crisscrossed by plenty of paths,
ranging from well marked to unmarked, enabling you to pick suitable routes.
the best in Espot, about 1.5km out of town
towards the park entrance. It has a pleasant
swimming pool, as well as a pool hall, bar and
mini-market.
EAST–WEST TRAVERSE
MOUNTAIN REFUGIS
You can walk right across the park in one day.
The full Espot-to-Boí (or vice versa) walk is
about 25km and takes nine hours, but you can
shorten this by using Jeep-taxis to/from Estany
de Sant Maurici or Aigüestortes (3km downstream from Estany Llong) or both. Espot
(1300m) to Estany de Sant Maurici (1950m)
is 8km (two hours). A path then climbs to the
Portarró d’Espot pass (2423m), where there
are fine views over both of the park’s main
valleys. From the pass you descend to Estany
Llong and Aigüestortes (1820m; about 3½
hours from Estany de Sant Maurici). Then you
have around 3.5km to the park entrance, 4km
to the L500 and 2.5km south to Boí (1260m) –
a total of about three hours.
Six refugis in the park and nine more inside
the zona perifèrica provide accommodation
for walkers. They tend to be staffed from early
or mid-June to September, and for some weeks
in the first half of the year for skiers. At other
times several of them leave a section open
where you can stay overnight; if you are unsure, call ahead or ask at the park information
offices. Most charge €12.50 per person to stay
overnight. The refuges in the park are listed
here. Those outside are marked on the map.
Refugi d’Amitges (%973 25 01 09; www.amitges
.com) At Estany Gran d’Amitges (2380m), in
the north of the park, it’s run by the Centre
Excursionista de Catalunya (CEC). Meals and
showers are available.
Refugi La Centraleta Basic digs with bunks,
mattresses and blankets, 15 minutes south of
Refugi de l’Estany Llong.
Refugi Ernest Mallafré (%973 25 01 18) It’s near
the eastern end of Estany de Sant Maurici
(1950m) and run by the FEEC. It has meals
but no showers.
Refugi de l’Estany Llong (reservations %629-374652,
973 29 95 45) It’s near Estany Llong (1985m) and
run by the national park; there’s a kitchen
and showers.
Refugi Josep Maria Blanc (%973 25 01 08; www.jm
blanc.com) It’s near Estany Tort (2350m) and run
by the CEC; meals available when staffed.
Refugi Ventosa i Calvell (%973 29 70 90; www
.refugiventosa.com) The CEC runs this refugi in
the northwest of the park (2220m); it has a
kitchen and showers.
Vall
Fosca
0
0
4 km
2 miles
ours, and expressive but superhuman features,
have become a virtual emblem of Catalan
Romanesque art. Other art from this church
has found its way to museums as far away as
Boston in the USA!
Santa Maria de Taüll (admission free; h10am-7pm),
up in the old village centre and possessing
a five-storey tower, is also well represented
in the Barcelona museum but lacks the in
situ copies that add to the interest of Sant
Climent.
Other worthwhile Romanesque churches
in the area are at Boí (Sant Joan), Barruera
(Sant Feliu), Durro (Nativitat) and Erill la Vall
(Santa Eulàlia). The latter has a slender sixstorey tower to rival Sant Climent’s and slopes
upwards to the altar. Next door is the Centre
SHORTER WALKS
Numerous good walks of three to five hours’
return will take you up into spectacular
side valleys from Estany de Sant Maurici or
Aigüestortes.
From the eastern end of Estany de Sant Maurici, one path heads south 2.5km up the Monastero valley to Estany de Monastero (2171m),
passing Els Encantats on the left. Another goes
3km northwest up by Estany de Ratero to
Estany Gran d’Amitges (2350m). From Planell Gran
(1850m), 1km up the Sant Nicolau valley from
Aigüestortes, a path climbs 2.5km southeast to
Estany Gran de Dellui (2370m). You can descend
to Estany Llong (3km); it takes about four hours
from Aigüestortes to Estany Llong.
Skiing
The Boí-Taüll ski resort (%902 40 66 40; www.boitaull
resort.com; day lift pass €30) is one of Catalonia’s
more promising areas, with 46 pistes (most
fairly easy) covering 42km. You can also ski
Sleeping
CAMPING
There are four similarly priced camping
grounds in and around Espot. Camping Vorapark
(%973 62 41 08; www.voraparc.com; Prat del Vedat; sites per
2-person tent & car €19; hApr-Sep; ps) is about
HOSTALES & HOTELS
The villages of Espot, Boí and Taüll have a
range of accommodation options (including
several mid-range hotels in Espot). There are
C ATA L O N I A
C ATA L O N I A
Romanesque Churches
around Espot (%973 62 40 58; www.espotesqui.net;
day lift pass €28), which gives you a further 31
pistes over 32km.
Capdella
Boí-Taüll
Resort
To El Pont de Suert (8km);
Lleida (117km)
d’Interpretació del Romànic (%973 69 67 15; Carrer del
Batalló 5; h9am-2pm & 5-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun),
which has a small Romanesque art collection,
and it’s also where you can organise guided
tours of the churches.
You can visit all the churches (with the exception of Santa Maria de Taüll) from 10am to
2pm and 4pm to 7pm daily (admission €1.20
each or €5 for all six churches).
TRANSPORT
Bus Stop...........................................10 A3
Bus Stop...........................................11 A3
To N230 (1km);
Mossos d'Esquadra (2km);
Baish Aran (15km);
France (24km)
SIGHTS
Perched on a rise just above the centre of
Vielha, this modern hotel offers fairly straightforward rooms with valley views.
Hotel Eth Pomèr (%973 64 28 88; www.hotelpomer
.com; Carretera de Gausac 4; s/d €73/96; pai) In
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To Arties (6km); Salardú (9km);
Baqueira-Beret (14km); Port
de la Bonaigua (37km) via C28
central Vielha, this hotel is ideal for skiers.
Rooms are bright with parquet floors, high ceilings, attractive wood furnishings and modern
marble bathrooms.
EATING
Quality dining is quite hard to come by in
Vielha, but you will find no shortage of places
serving average meals – many will dish up
the local speciality, olla aranesa (a hearty
hotpot).
El Molí (%973 64 17 18; Carrèr de Sarriulera 26; meals
€30) On the banks of Riu Nere, this eatery
specialises in grilled meaty dishes and llesques,
toasty bread with toppings like ceps, jabugo i
formatge fós (mushrooms, top quality ham
and melted cheese; €15).
C ATA L O N I A
.hotelpirene.com; Carretera del Túnel s/n; s/d €58/96; p)
rd
Av
SLEEPING
About a third of the Val d’Aran’s hotels are
in the capital. For some of the cheaper places,
head down Passeig dèra Llibertat, north off
Avenguda de Castièro. High season for most is
Christmas to New Year, Easter and a handful
of other peak holiday periods: high summer
(July to August) and much of the ski season
(January to February). At other times, prices
can as much as halve.
Hostal El Ciervo (%973 64 01 65; Plaça de Sant Orenç
3; s/d €50/78) Some of the better rooms in this
perfectly adequate, 18-room, old-style hotel
overlooking a central square have the singular
benefit of power showers.
Hotel Pirene (%973 64 00 75 or 902 16 02 42; www
rrè
Ma
Aran’s history up to the present.
7
11
Ca
Ca
rrè
r
(%973 64 18 15; Carrèr Major 11; admission €2; h10am1pm & 5-8pm Tue-Sat, 10am-1pm Sun) tells the tale of
3
10
a
The small old quarter is around Plaça dèra
Glèisa and across the little Riu Nere, just west
of the square. The Glèisa de Sant Miquèu (Plaça déra
Glèisa) is a church that displays a mix of 12th- to
18th-century styles, with a 13th-century main
portal. It contains some notable medieval
artwork, especially the 12th-century Crist de
Mijaran, an almost life-sized wooden bust
that is thought to have been part of a Descent
from the Cross group. The Musèu dèra Val d’Aran
ron
C ATA L O N I A
2
Ga
This lush green valley, Catalonia’s northernmost outpost, is surrounded by spectacular
2000m-plus mountains. Its only natural opening is northwards to France, to which it gives
its river, the Riu Garona (Garonne), flowing
down to Bordeaux. Thanks in part to its geography, Aran’s native language is not Catalan
but Aranese (aranés), which is a dialect of
Occitan or the langue d’oc, the old Romance
language of southern France.
Despite this northward orientation, Aran
has been tied politically to Catalonia since
1175, when Alfonso II took it under his protection to forestall the designs of rival counts
on both sides of the Pyrenees. A major hiccup
came with the Napoleonic occupation from
1810 to 1815.
For all its intriguing past, the Val d’Aran is
in danger of being overrun by tourism, which,
since the 1964 opening of the Baqueira–Beret
ski resort, has replaced farming and herding
as the economic mainstay. That said, many
villages retain an old-fashioned core and, from
Aran’s pretty side valleys, walkers can go over
the mountains in any direction, notably southwards to the Parc Nacional d’Aigüestortes i
Estany de Sant Maurici.
The Val d’Aran is some 35km long and is
considered to have three parts: Naut Aran
EATING
El Molí................................................8 A4
Era Mola............................................9 A4
Riu
Daily buses from Barcelona, Lleida and La
Pobla de Segur to Esterri d’Àneu (and in summer to the Val d’Aran) will stop at the Espot
pop 9200
SLEEPING
Hostal El Ciervo..................................6 A3
Hotel Eth Pomèr.................................7 A3
a
aron
BUS
VAL D’ARAN
72 85) Just north of the centre along the N230 to France.
Tourist office (%973 64 01 10; www.aran.org; Carrèr
de Sarriulèra 10; h9am-9pm)
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Glèisa de Sant Miquèu........................4 B4
Musèu dèra Val d'Aran......................5 A4
G
Riu
Hospital (%973 64 00 04; Carrèr deth Espitau)
Mossos d’Esquadra (Catalan regional police; %973 25
B
sac
Note that throughout the area many places
close mid-week and in the off-season. Most
of the towns have one or two fairly basic restaurants.
Restaurant Juquim (%973 62 40 09; meals €20) This
restaurant on the main square has a varied
menu concentrating largely on hearty country fare, with generous winter servings of olla
pallaresa (steaming hotpot) or civet de senglar
(wild boar stew).
Hotel Roya (%973 62 40 40; meals €25-30) Also in
Espot, the century-old Hotel Roya offers a
similar range of food in a slightly more upmarket setting, with a dining room inside and
sunny separate dining area opposite the hotel
entrance. Try the truita de riu del pais (local
river trout).
In Taüll, where there are a handful of eateries, you could try Sant Climent (%973 69
60 52; meals €15-20; hdaily Dec-Easter & Jul-Sep) for
a piping-hot onion soup and other simply
home-cooked fare.
INFORMATION
Once you’re close to the park, the easiest way
of getting inside it is by Jeep-taxi from Espot
or Boí. There’s a more or less continuous shuttle service between Espot and Estany de Sant
Maurici, and between Boí and Aigüestortes,
saving you, respectively, 8km and 10km. The
one-way fare for either trip is €4.40 per person
and the services run from outside the park
information offices in Espot and Boí (from
July to September 8am to 7pm, other months
9am to 6pm).
1
pop 5020
de Gau
Eating
Getting Around
A
Carretera
Three kilometres uphill from Boí, Taüll is by
far the most picturesque place to stay on the
west side of the park. It has nine cases de pagès
and over a dozen hotels and pensiones, either in
the village itself or in the surrounding area.
Pensión Santa Maria (%973 69 61 70; www.taull
.com; Plaça Cap del Riu 3; d up to €105) Through a shady
entrance a grand stone archway leads into
the quiet courtyard of this rambling country
haven, with rose-draped balcony. The rooms
are tastefully furnished and the building, all
stonework, timber and slate roof, oozes timeless character. For €7 the staff will pack you
a picnic lunch.
200 m
0.1 miles
INFORMATION
Hospital..............................................1 B4
Post Office.........................................2 B4
Tourist Office.....................................3 A4
Ca
Sa rrèr
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Taüll
Vielha is Aran’s junction town, and the Aranese spelling of its name is more common than
the Catalan and Castilian version, Viella.
Vielha
0
0
VIELHA
Riu N
e
Residència Felip (%973 62 40 93; s/d €15/30, Jul-Aug
€25/40) A friendly, family-run place in the heart
of the village, this spot has clean rooms, and
rates include breakfast. It is one of three country homestays here.
(Upper Aran), the eastern part, aligned east–
west; Mijaran (Middle Aran) around Vielha;
and Baish Aran (Lower Aran), where the Garona flows northeast to France.
turning on the C13. From there you have an
8km uphill walk (or hitch) to Espot.
Alsina Graells buses from Barcelona to La
Pobla de Segur (€22.15, three to 4½ hours)
run up to three times a day all year. From
July to mid-September, a connecting bus runs
daily from La Pobla de Segur to El Pont de
Suert and from there to Barruera and the Boí
turn-off (el Cruce de Boí) on the L500 (1km
short of Boí).
T H E PY R E N E E S • • Va l d ’ A r a n 379
gu
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Ca a de
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Ba ald
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Espot
Book
en
hostales and cases de pagès in Barruera, El Pont
de Suert, Capdella and La Torre de Capdella.
lyplanet.com
Av
378 T H E PY R E N E E S • • Va l d ’ A r a n
380 T H E PY R E N E E S • • Va l d ’ A r a n
Era Mòla (%973 64 24 19; Carrèr de Marrèc 8; meals
€30-35; hThu-Tue mid-Jul–Sep & Dec-Apr) Easily the
best restaurant in town, located in a low-slung
house in the heart of the old town. Expect
carefully prepared local and more international cuisine. The desserts, with a French
leaning, rate a special mention.
Arties
pop 370
Six kilometres east of Vielha, this village on
the southern side of the highway sits astride
the confluence of the Garona and Valarties
rivers. Among its cheerful stone houses is
the Romanesque Glèisa de Santa Maria, with its
three-storey belfry and triple apse.
Just nearby in a charming house atop the Valarties stream is Hotel Residencia Besiberri (%973
64 08 29; Carrèr de la Font 3; s/d €75/96; hDec-Apr & Jul-Sep).
This rustic place could almost be at home somewhere in Austria, with stone and timber trims.
The staff can arrange for a babysitter when
you’re out wandering or skiing.
Another reason for coming to Arties is to
eat at Casa Irene (%973 64 43 64; Carrèr Major 20; meals
€40-55; hWed-Sun, dinner only Tue, closed Oct & May).
The food at Casa Irene is sublime, featuring
a tempting mix of sturdy local dishes and
international flair.
Salardú
Three kilometres east of Arties, Salardú’s nucleus of old houses and narrow streets has
largely resisted the temptation to sprawl. In
May, June, October or November, however,
you will find only a few hotels open. In the
apse of the village’s 12th- and 13th-century
Sant Andreu church, you can admire the 13thcentury Crist de Salardú crucifixion carving.
The town is a handy base for the Baqueira–
Beret ski resort, located 4km from here.
Alberg Era Garona (%973 64 52 71; Carretera de
Vielha s/n; dm student & under 26yr/26yr & over €19/23) is
a large youth hostel built in local stone and
slate. It has rooms of up to four beds, each
with a bathroom.
Hotel deth Pais (%973 64 58 36; Carrer de Santa Paula
s/n; s/d €72/89; p) is in the middle of the original
village; it’s a pleasant slate-roofed hotel with
straightforward rooms.
Baqueira–Beret
Baqueira (Vaquèira in Aranese), 3km east of
Salardú, and Beret, 8km north of Baqueira,
form Catalonia’s premier ski resort (%973 63
90 10; www.baquiera.es; day lift pass €39), favoured by
the Spanish royal family, no less! Its good lift
system gives access to 72 varied pistes totalling 104km (larger than any other Spanish
resort), amid fine scenery at between 1500m
and 2510m.
There’s nowhere cheap to stay in Baqueira,
and nowhere at all at Beret. Many skiers stay
down the valley in Salardú, Arties or Vielha. If
you want to rent an apartment, call the central
booking number %973 63 90 27.
North of Vielha
The hills on either side of the highway up
to the French frontier hide some exquisite
countryside with fine walking trails and an
assortment of curious villages.
Book
BUS
Two Alsina Graells buses run daily between
Barcelona and Vielha (€27.60, 5½ hours) via
Lleida and El Pont de Suert. Lleida to Vielha
(€10.89) takes three hours. From June to October, a daily Alsina Graells bus connects Barcelona and Vielha (€32.90, 7½ hours) via La
Pobla de Segur, Llavorsí, the Espot turning on
the C13, Port de la Bonaigua and Salardú.
A local bus service runs from four (at weekends) to nine times daily along the valley
from Baqueira to Les or Pontaut (for Eth
Pont de Rei) via Vielha and the intervening
villages. Several others run from Vielha either
to Baquiera or to Les/Pontaut. The trip from
one end of the valley to the other takes up to
an hour. A single ticket for any destination is
€0.80 (or €7.20 for a book of 10 tickets).
ARRÒS, VILA & OTHER VILLAGES
Turn off the highway at Eth Pònt d’Arròs and
climb a few kilometres into Arròs via Vila. This
sleepy village makes a better choice of place
to stay than the valley towns. Try Casa Mariun
(%973 64 03 41; Cap dera Vila 13; d €32). This charming village house, all stone and dark wood
shutters, is typical of the Val d’Aran. Other
villages dot the area too.
PLAN DERA ARTIGA DE LIN
Branch west, off the main highway at Es
Bòrdes, a typical Aranese village, and keep
following the road as it twists its way up into
heavily wooded countryside. The drive alone
is a real delight: follow the course of the Joèu
stream, as you gain altitude, to reach the high
mountain pastures of the Plan dera Artiga
de Lin plain. Walking trails lead off into the
tall forbidding mountains of the Aragonese Pyrenees, capped by the Pic d’Aneto
(see p430).
AUTHOR’S CHOICE
El Raconet (% 973 64 17 30; Carrèr de Cre-
stalhera 3, Arròs; meals €20-25; hMon-Fri midJul–Sep, plus Sat & Sun ski season; otherwise
weekends only) Regulars keep coming back
to this cosy stonewalled house converted
into a charming country restaurant. The
setting alone makes it worthwhile. Solid
country cooking is on offer and the cooks
have a special penchant for bacalao (dried
and salted cod).
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
The N230 Hwy from Lleida and El Pont de
Suert reaches Aran through the 5.25km Túnel
de Vielha, then heads north from Vielha to the
French border at Eth Pont de Rei.
From the Vall de la Noguera Pallaresa,
the C28 crosses the Port de la Bonaigua pass
(2072m) – which is sometimes closed in winter – into Naut Aran, meeting the N230 Hwy
at Vielha.
CENTRAL CATALONIA
Away from the beaches and mountains that
captivate the bulk of roamers in Catalonia is a
host of little-visited gems splashed across the
Catalan hinterland. About halfway between
Barcelona and the Pyrenees lies the graceful town of Vic, with its grand Plaça Major.
Northwest of the capital, you can strike out for
Manresa (just beyond Montserrat), Cardona
(with its windy castle complex) and Solsona, en
route to Lleida. An alternative route to Lleida
takes you further south through the Conca
de Barberà, littered with majestic medieval
monasteries.
VIC
pop 37,825
Vic, with its attractive historic centre and some
fine restaurants, dominates the flatlands of La
Plana de Vic to the south of the Pyrenees, and
was one of Catalonia’s leading religious centres.
The power of the bishops of Vic stretched far
C E N T R A L C ATA L O N I A • • V i c 381
and wide and explains the surprising number
of churches crammed into the old town.
Information
Tourist office (%93 886 20 91; www.victurisme.com;
Carrer de la Ciutat 4; h10am-2pm & 4-8pm Mon-Fri,
9.30am-2pm & 4-7pm Sat, 10am-1.30pm Sun)
Sights
Plaça Major, the largest of Catalonia’s central
squares, is lined with medieval, baroque and
Modernista mansions. It’s still the site of regular markets, hence its other name, Plaça del
Mercadal.
The Catedral de Sant Pere (admission €2; h10am1pm & 4-7pm) is a neoclassical Goliath of gloomy
taste, and flanked by a Romanesque bell tower.
Inside, the dark, square-based pillars are lightened somewhat by murals by Josep Maria Sert
(he had to do them twice because the first set
was destroyed by fire in 1936). It is worth the
admission fee to enter the Romanesque crypt,
see the treasury rooms and wander into the
stone lace-work splendour of the Gothic cloister. Entry is from the left side of the altar.
Across Carrer de Cloquer, the Museu Episcopal
(%93 886 93 60; Plaça del Bisbe Oliba 3; adult/child, student &
senior €4/2; h10am-7pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun Apr-Sep,
10am-1pm & 3-6pm Tue-Fri, 10am-7pm Sat, 10am-2pm Sun
Oct-Mar) holds a marvellous collection of Ro-
manesque and Gothic art, among other things.
In Catalonia it is second only to the Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya collection (p299) in
Barcelona. The Romanesque collection includes
the vivid Davallament, a scene depicting the taking down of Christ from the cross. The Gothic
collection contains works by such key figures as
Lluís Borrassà and Jaume Huguet.
Sleeping & Eating
Vic is an easy day trip from Barcelona. The
city is known for its disproportionate density of high-quality restaurants, and it’s close
enough to Barcelona for people from the big
city to have an agreeable gourmet getaway.
Hostal Osona (%93 883 28 45; Carrer de Remei 3; d €28)
If you do need digs, this basic hostal has rooms
with basin and shared showers in the hall.
Otherwise there are three mid-level hotels.
La Taula (%93 886 32 29, Plaça de Don Miguel de Clariana
4; meals €20-25; hlunch & dinner Tue-Sat all year, lunch only
Sun Oct-May) In a town that bristles with eateries,
this is a bright star of traditional cooking, with
fair prices and no pretensions. The entrecot a
la tòfona (with truffles) is delicious.
C ATA L O N I A
C ATA L O N I A
pop 1200
lonelyplanet.com
382 C E N T R A L C ATA L O N I A • • A r o u n d V i c
AROUND VIC
The castle (follow the signs uphill to the
parador) was built over an older predecessor.
The single most remarkable element of the
buildings is the lofty and spare Romanesque
Església de Sant Vicenç (%93 868 41 69; adult/child
pop 240
€2.40/1.80; h10am-1pm & 3-6pm Tue-Sun Jun-Sep, 10am1pm & 3-5pm Tue-Sun Oct-May). To get in, stop at the
Regular rodalies (line C3) run from Barcelona
(€3.80, up to 1½ hours).
Rupit
lonelyplanet.com
Hotel Solsona Centre (%973 48 43 40 www.hotel
solsonacentre.com; Carrer de Àngel Guimerà 3; s/d €36/45;
paiw) This is a plain Jane of a place,
but clean, secure and central, and rather modestly priced.
Two to four Alsina Graells buses run daily
from Barcelona (€12.80, two hours) via Manresa
(€5.60, 65 minutes) and Cardona to Solsona.
C E N T R A L C ATA L O N I A • • C o n c a d e B a r b e r à 383
12.45pm & 3-5.30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-12.30pm & 3-5.30pm Sun
& holidays mid-Oct–mid-Mar), founded by Cistercian
monks from southern France in 1151.
The walls of this abbey devoted to Santa
Maria (a Unesco World Heritage site), were
a defensive measure and also symbolised the
monks’ isolation from the vanities of the outside world. A grand portal gives access to a long
uneven square, the Plaça Major, flanked by several dependencies including the small Romanesque Capella de Santa Caterina. The nearby Porta
Daurada is so called because its bronze panels
were overlaid with gold to suitably impress the
visiting emperor Felipe II in 1564.
Once inside the Porta Reial (Royal Gate),
flanked by hefty octagonal towers, you will
be led through a worn Romanesque entrance
to the grand cloister, of Romanesque origins
but largely Gothic in style. With its peaceful
fountain and pavilion, the two-level cloister
is a marvellous haven. You will be led from
the cloister to the head of the church, itself a
typically tall and austere Cistercian Gothic
creation, to witness the sculptural glory in
alabaster that is the retablo and Panteón de los
guardian’s office on the right as you enter
the castle (and now hotel) courtyard. The
bare stone walls were once covered in bright
frescoes, some of which can be contemplated
in the Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya
(p299) in Barcelona.
A couple of modest pensiones offer relatively cheap digs for an overnight stay. Otherwise, the place to be is the magnificent Parador
Ducs de Cardona (%93 869 12 75; [email protected];
s/d €129/170), where you can feel like the king of
the castle for a night or two.
Cardona is served by the Alsina Graells
Barcelona–Manresa–Solsona bus route. Up
to four run daily from Barcelona (€10.90,
1¾ hours) and nine from Manresa (€3.70, 40
minutes). Up to four buses proceed to Solsona
(€1.85, 25 minutes).
MANRESA
pop 8570
CATALAN TIPPLES
They call the people of Solsona matarucs
(donkey killers), which seems an odd tag until
you hear what the townsfolk’s favourite festive
activity used to be.
Every February the high point of Solsona’s
carnival fun was the hoisting of a donkey,
by the neck, up the town bell tower (Torre
de les Hores). The donkey, literally scared
to death, not unreasonably, would shit and
piss on its way up, much to the delight of the
drink-addled crowd below. To be hit by a
glob of either substance was, they say, a sign
of good fortune for the coming year. Animal
rights people put an end to this bizarre form
of entertainment and the donkey nowadays
is a water-spraying fake.
The Catedral de Santa Maria on Plaça de la
Catedral (admission free; h10am-1pm & 4-8pm) boasts
Romanesque apses, a Gothic nave and a pretty
cloister. Behind the cathedral is the Palau Episcopal (%973 48 21 01; Plaça del Palau; adult/senior &
Avid tipplers will have come across a playful, relatively inexpensive bubbly called Freixenet. One
of Spain’s flagship exporters of cava, Freixenet is based at the heart of Catalonia’s Penedès wine
region, which alone produces the bulk of all Spain’s sparkling white wines (see the Barcelona
chapter, p338).
But Freixenet and bubbly are only the tip of the Catalan wineberg. Catalonia hosts 11 DO
(denominación de origen) wine-producing zones and a remarkable variety of tipples. Although
perhaps less well-known than wines from the Rioja area, Catalan wines are full of pleasant surprises.
The heavy, tannin-loaded, deep-coloured reds of El Priorat have gained the much-desired DOC
(denominación de origen calificada) status long held by Rioja wines alone. To further investigate
El Priorat’s wines, and wines from the adjacent Montsant DO region, head for the tourist office
in Falset (%977 83 10 23; www.priorat.org; Carrer de Sant Marcel 2; h9am-3pm & 4-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am2pm Sat, 11am-2pm Sun) for information on local wine cellars. Falset, the capital of the Priorat area,
offers some fine restaurant options too.
Catalonia’s other DO wines come from points all over the region, spread as far apart as the
Empordà area around Figueres in the north, and the Terra Alta zone around Gandesa in the
southwest. The Penedès region pumps out almost two million hectolitres a year and thus doubles
the combined output of the remaining DO regions.
Most of the grapes grown in Catalonia are native to Spain and include the White Macabeo,
Garnacha and Xarel.lo (for white wines), and the Black Garnacha, Monastrell and Ull de Llebre
(Hare’s Eye) red varieties. Foreign varieties (such as Chardonnay, Riesling, Chenin Blanc, Cabernet
Sauvignon, Merlot and Pinot Noir) are also widespread.
Freixenet, Codorniu and Torres are the big names in the Penedès region, but there is plenty
to discover beyond that region. Raïmat, in the Costers del Segre DO area in Lleida province,
produces some fine reds and a couple of notable whites. Good fortified wines come from around
Tarragona; some pleasing fresh wines are also produced in the Empordà area in the north by,
for example, Cellers Santamaria and Cooperativa de Mollet de Perelada.
A big commercial centre in the Catalan heartland, Manresa was the scene of the first assembly of the nationalist Unió Catalanista
(1897), which published the Bases de Manresa, a political manifesto for an autonomous
Catalan state.
Not a great deal of the old town remains but
you can’t miss the great hulk that is the Basílica
de Santa Maria, atop the Puig Cardener hill in
the town centre. Its Gothic nave is second in
size only to that of the cathedral in Girona.
The unique Romanesque Pont Vell, whose
eight arcs span the rather less-impressive
Riu Cardener, was rebuilt after destruction
in the civil war.
Rodalies from Barcelona (€3.80, 1¼ hours)
via Terrassa run here regularly.
CARDONA
pop 5230
Long before arrival, you espy in the distance
the outline of the impregnable 18th-century
fortress high above Cardona, which itself lies
next to the Muntanya de Sal (Salt Mountain).
Until 1990 the salt mines were an important
source of income.
SOLSONA
child €3/2; h10am-1pm & 4-6pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun
Oct-Apr, 10am-1pm & 4.30-7pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun MaySep). Built in the 18th century, this neoclassical
building houses a considerable collection of
medieval art gathered from churches in the
surrounding district.
CONCA DE BARBERÀ
This hilly, green, wine-making district comes
as a refreshing surprise in the otherwise drab
flatlands of southwest Catalonia and makes
an alternative route from Barcelona (or Tarragona) to Lleida and beyond. Vineyards and
woods succeed one another across rolling
green hills, studded by occasional medieval
villages and monasteries.
Reial Monestir de Santa Maria
de Poblet
The jewel in the crown is doubtless this imposing fortified monastery (%977 87 12 47; adult/student
€4.20/2.40; h10am-12.45pm & 3-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am12.30pm & 3-5.30pm Sun & holidays mid-Mar–mid-Oct, 10am-
C ATA L O N I A
An enchanting excursion northeast of Vic
takes you 31km along the C153 to Rupit, a
splendid old village set amid rugged grazing country – the flat-top mountains around
here come as quite a surprise. You cross a
suspension footbridge made in the 1940s to
reach the village, which is full of quaint 17thcentury houses, a baroque church and tuckedaway squares. Especially enticing is Carrer
del Fossar, which climbs the spine of the hill,
along which part of the village is spreadeagled. Rupit is a good base for rambles in
the area.
Getting here without your own vehicle is
problematic. Sagalés (%93 889 25 77) buses leave
Carrer de Casp 30 in Barcelona at 6pm Monday to Friday and at 11.20am on Saturday.
Change buses in Vic. The trip (€9.50) takes
about two hours from Barcelona.
pop 64,000
C ATA L O N I A
lonelyplanet.com
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To La Seu d'Urgell (126km);
Barcelona via A2 (154km)
INFORMATION
Centre d'Informació i Reserves.....1
Oficina Turisme de la
Generalitat...............................2
Policía Nacional............................3
Post Office...................................4
Blonde
3
4
12
Plaça de
la Paeria
de B
Riu S
e
Mart
de la Riba
p de
Cam
Car rer del
9
Carrer de
Bonaire
Plaça de
Sant Joan
Carrer de Monterey
3
Carrer de Sant Martí
Plaça de Ricard
Vinyes
To Huesca
Avin
guda
(112km)
Camps
Elisis
Plaça de
Bores
Avg de
Avinguda
de Prat
Perenya
8
esc
ranc
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guda cià
Avin Ma
To La Pérgola
(100m)
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4
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17
a
luny
To Zaragoza
(155km);
Barcelona
(175km)
Cata
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Antic Convent del Roser..........(see 10)
Castell del Rei (La Suda)...............5 B2
La Paeria......................................6 C3
La Seu Nova................................7 C4
La Seu Vella..................................8 B2
Lift (Ascensor)..............................9 B3
Museu d'Art Jaume Morera.......10 C3
Sala d'Arqueologia.....................11 C4
SLEEPING
Hostal Mundial..........................12 C3
Hotel Ramon Berenguer IV.........13 B1
Hotel Real..................................14 C3
EATING
El Celler del Roser......................15 C3
Market (Mercat).........................16 B3
Restaurant Santbernat..............(see 17)
TRANSPORT
Bus Station.................................17 C4
Sala d’Arqueologia (%973 27 15 00; Plaça de la Catedral;
Sleeping
admission free; h10am-2pm & 6-9pm Tue-Fri, 11am-2pm &
7-9pm Sat, 11am-2pm Sun Jun-Sep, 10am-2pm & 5.30-8.30pm
Tue-Fri, noon-2pm & 5.30-8.30pm Sat, noon-2pm Sun OctMay), which includes Iberian and Roman finds
Hostal Mundial (%973 24 27 00; Plaça de Sant Joan 4;
s/d €20/40; p) Singles are smallish but have
full bathrooms, which is not bad for a central
little hostal like this one. Doubles are roomier
and all are clean and neat.
Hotel Ramon Berenguer IV (%973 23 73 45; Plaça
de Ramon Berenguer IV 2; s/d €35/44; pa) These
somewhat dog-eared digs are quite all right
and handy for the train station. Rooms are
all decent if unexciting. Those on the higher
floors enjoy a bit of a view.
Hotel Real (%973 23 94 05; www.hotelreallleida.com;
Avinguda de Blondel 22; s/d €67/86; paiw) A modern midrise place with a pleasant garden, Hotel
Real is aimed at business visitors and offers
various classes of room. All are bright and clean,
from the Lleida region.
Carrer dels Cavallers and Carrer de la
Palma climb from Carrer Major up through
the old part of town. The Antic Convent
del Roser, featuring an unusual three-storey
cloister, houses the Museu d’Art Jaume Morera
(%973 70 04 19; Carrer dels Cavallers 15; admission free;
h11am-2pm & 5-8pm Tue-Sat, 11am-2pm Sun) and
its collection of work by Lleida-associated
artists. The museum is due to be moved to
another location, but so far funding has yet
to be stumped up.
C ATA L O N I A
C ATA L O N I A
agd
tonia
la An
la Vil
de Fe
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ó
http://turisme.paeria.es; Carrer Major 31bis; h10am2pm & 4-7pm Mon-Sat,10am-1.30pm Sun) Turisme de
Lleida provides information about the city.
Carre
e
rr
Ca
tos
ral Bri
Gene
Carre
Joan
Sant
r de
ret
Carre
nye
el Ca
Carrer d
Centre d’Informació i Reserves (%902 25 00 50;
A 13th-century Gothic mansion La Paeria has
housed the city government almost since
its inception. The 18th-century neoclassical La Seu Nova on Plaça de la Catedral was
built when La Seu Vella was turned into a
barracks.
Opposite is the Hospital de Santa Maria,
with a Gothic courtyard. It now houses the
gall
n
Salm
ag
Information
Carrer Major & Around
Pi i Mar
erò
e
rd
r del
Carre
e
Much of western Catalonia is flat and drab,
but if you’re not in a hurry Lleida (Castilian: Lérida) is a likable place with a long and
varied history. It’s also the starting point of
several routes towards the Pyrenees.
Carrer de
é
v
Cla
m
sel
'An
d
r
rre Plaça de
Ca
Mossèn Jacint
Verdaguer
'Ar
pop 124,710
To El Pont de
Suert (120km);
Vielha (160km)
2
d
la
LLEIDA
de Sant Joan.
The cathedral was built in sandy-coloured
stone in the 13th to 15th centuries on the
site of a former mosque (Lleida was under
Muslim control from AD 719 to 1149). It’s a
masterpiece of the Transitional style, although
it only recently recovered from 241 years’
use as a barracks, which began as Felipe V’s
punishment for the city’s opposition in the
War of the Spanish Succession.
A 70m octagonal bell tower rises at the
southwest end of the cloister, whose windows
are laced with exceptional Gothic tracery. The
spacious if austere interior, used as stables and
dormitories during the military occupation,
has a veritable forest of slender columns with
carved capitals.
Above the cathedral are remains of the
Islamic fortress and residence of the Muslim
governors, known as the Castell del Rei or
La Suda.
1
D
Plaça de Ramon
Berenguer IV
na
e Via
13
cep d
l Prìn
300 m
0.2 miles
C
Train
Station
mb
Ra
well worth searching out.
Tue-Sat, 10am-1.30pm Sun Jun-Sep, 10am-1.30pm & 3-5.30pm
Tue-Sat, 10am-1.30pm Sun Oct-May) from above Plaça
B
r de
Carre
uano
Creus & Poblet monasteries €7; h10.30am-1.30pm & 4.306.45pm Tue-Sat, noon-1.30pm & 4.30-6.45pm Sun & holidays
Mar-Oct, 10.30am-1.30pm & 4.30-6pm Tue-Sat, noon-1.30pm
& 4.30-6pm Sun & holidays Nov-Feb), to the north, are
everything else in position and grandeur.
It stands within a recinte (compound) of
defensive walls erected between the 12th and
19th centuries.
The main entrance to the recinte (admission
free; h8am-9pm) is from Carrer de Monterey
on its western side, but during the cathedral’s
opening hours you can use the extraordinarily
ugly ascensor (lift; admission €0.40; 10am-1.30pm & 4-8pm
A
be R
28km east of Montblanc, and Vallbona de les
Monges (%973 33 02 66; adult/child €2.50/2, plus Santes
06 53; admission €2.40; h10am-1.30pm & 3-5.30pm TueSat, 10am-1.30pm Sun Oct-May, 10am-1.30pm & 4-7.30pm
Tue-Sat, 10am-1.30pm Sun Jun-Sep) towers above
0
0
er Bis
adult/child €3.60/2.40, plus Poblet & Vallbona monasteries €7,
free Tue; h10am-1.30pm & 3-7pm Tue-Sun mid-Mar–midSep, 10am-1.30pm & 3-5.30pm Tue-Sun mid-Sep–mid-Jan,
10am-1.30pm & 3-6pm Tue-Sun mid-Jan–mid-Mar), about
La Seu Vella
Lleida’s ‘old cathedral’, La Seu Vella (%973 23
ὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈ
ὈὈ
ὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈ
LLEIDA
Carr
It is worth spending time exploring the vicinity. L’Espluga de Francolí, 2.5km away from the
monastery along a pleasant tree-lined country
road that makes walking tempting, is a bright
town with several small hotels.
More interesting still is Montblanc, 8km
away. Surrounded by medieval battlements,
this one-time royal residence is jammed with
highlights, including a Gothic royal mansion
and churches, as well as some vestiges of its Romanesque origins. The winding cross-country
drive to Prades leads through lovely country.
If monasteries are of interest, Monestir de
Santes Creus (%977 63 83 29; Plaça de Jaume el Just s/n;
Plaça de Ramon Berenguer IV; h10am-2pm & 3.307.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat) For tips on the rest of
Lleida province.
Policía Nacional (Carrer de Sant Martí 62)
Post office (Rambla de Ferran 16; h8.30am-8.30pm
Mon-Fri, 9.30am-2pm Sat)
C E N T R A L C ATA L O N I A • • L l e i d a 385
l Carm
Around Reial Monestir de Santa Maria
de Poblet
Oficina Turisme de la Generalitat (%973 24 88 40;
Book
er de
Carr
Reyes (Kings’ Pantheon). The raised alabaster
coffins, restored by Frederic Marès (see p287),
contain such greats as Jaume I (the conqueror
of Mallorca and Valencia) and Pere III.
Of six Vibasa buses (%902 101363; www.vibasa
.es) from Tarragona to Montblanc, L’Espluga
de Francolí (50 minutes) and on to Lleida on
weekdays, three stop at the monastery (55
minutes, two make all stops on weekends).
Regular trains from Barcelona (Ca4 regional
line) stop at Montblanc and L’Espluga de
Francolí (€7.55) – the monastery is a 40minute walk from the latter.
lonelyplanet.com
Carrer Alfred
384 C E N T R A L C ATA L O N I A • • L l e i d a
386 C O S TA D AU R A D A • • V i l a n o v a i l a G e l t r ú
lonelyplanet.com
and the better ones have generous balconies. A
couple of rooms have wheelchair access.
ones, taking just under one hour. About 10
high-speed trains head to Madrid (€55, 2¾
hours).
Eating
Lleida is Catalonia’s snail-eating capital. So
many cargols are swallowed during the annual Aplec del Cargol (Snail Festival), held on
a Sunday in early May, that some have to be
imported.
Restaurant Santbernat (%973 27 10 31; Carrer de
Saracíbar; meals €20-30; hlunch & dinner Thu-Sun, lunch
Mon) You would hardly expect to find a hearty
eatery like this up on the 1st floor of the
rather dour bus station. The star attractions
are chargrilled meat dishes.
La Pèrgola (%973 23 82 37; Passeig de Ronda 123;
meals €40-50; hMon-Sat Jun-Sep, Thu-Tue Oct-May) The
chefs in this shady house (one of several on
this strip – a surprise given the surrounding
horrible highrises) take the business of cooking seriously. This is one of the few spots in
Lleida for fine seafood, along with such classics as entrecot in Cabrales cheese.
BUS
For general bus-timetable information, call
%973 26 85 00. Daily services by Alsina Graells
(%973 27 14 70) include up to 13 buses (three
on Sunday) to Barcelona (€16.70, 2¼ to 2¾
hours); two to El Pont de Suert and Vielha
(€10.89, 2¾ hours); one (except Sunday) to
La Pobla de Segur, Sort, Llavorsí and Esterri
d’Àneu (€16.50, three hours); and two to La
Seu d’Urgell (€14.50, 2½ hours).
MONTSEC
This hilly range 65km north of Lleida is the
main stage for hang-gliders and ultra-lights in
Catalonia. It is also a popular area for walking,
caving and climbing.
The focal point is Àger, a village in the valley of the same name. If coming via Balaguer,
you’ll see it to the northeast as you reach the
top of Coll d’Àger (912m). The village is draped
like a mantle over a hill, protruding from
the top of which is the intriguing ruin of the
Església de Sant Pere.
Montsec has a half-dozen take-off points,
including one at the Sant Alís peak (1678m),
the highest in the range. Volàger (%973 32 02
30; www.volager.com; Camí de Castellnou s/n), based in
Bellpuig, offers hang-gliding courses here and
provides all the equipment. You can go hanggliding with the school for a day (€80), while
a full six-day course comes to €400.
A choice location for walkers and climbers
is the stunning Congost de Mont-Rebei, a narrow
gorge of 80m-high rock walls at the western
end of the Montsec range. The Riu Noguera
Ribagorçana flows into the gorge from the
north, along the border with Aragón. Caves
along the foot of the gorge, and around the
dam to the south, attract speleologists.
You can stay at one of a handful of cases
de pagès or a hostal. About the only way to
get into and around the area is with your
own wheels.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
The quickest routes to Barcelona, Tarragona
and Zaragoza are by the AP2, but you can
avoid tolls by taking the A2 to Zaragoza or
Barcelona or the N240 Hwy to Tarragona. The
main northward roads are the C14 to La Seu
d’Urgell, the N230 to Vielha and the N240 to
Barbastro and Huesca (in Aragón).
Lleida is on the Barcelona–Zaragoza–Madrid
line. Up to 23 trains daily run to/from Barcelona, taking two to three hours (you may find
faster times still if the high-speed AVE stretch
from Lleida to Tarragona opens as planned
by the end of 2006). Second-class fares range
from €8.90 to €20.30. A similar number of
trains head to Zaragoza (€9.90 to €19.80,
up to two hours), including high-speed
South of Sitges (p334) stretches the Costa Daurada (Golden Coast), a series of mostly quiet
resorts with unending broad beaches along a
mainly flat coast, capped by the delta of the
mighty Riu Ebre (Ebro), which protrudes 20km
out into the Mediterranean. Along the way
is the old Roman capital of Tarragona, and
the modern extravaganza of Port Aventura –
Catalonia’s answer to EuroDisney.
VILANOVA I LA GELTRÚ
various dishes, particularly seafood), the much
sought-after actor Sergi López, and a trio of
broad beaches. Much of the sprawling town
itself is, however, of little interest.
Information
Tourist office (%93 815 45 17; www.vilanovaturisme
.net; Passeig del Carme s/n; h10am-2pm & 4-9pm Mon-Sat,
10am-2pm Sun Jul-Aug, 10am-1pm & 4.30-7.30pm Tue-Fri,
10am-2pm & 4.30-7.30pm Sat, 10am-2pm Sun Apr-Jun &
Sep-Oct, 10am-1pm Tue-Fri, 10am-2pm & 4.30-7.30pm Sat,
10am-2pm Sun Nov-Mar).
Sights
A few blocks inland from the beaches is Vilanova’s main attraction, the Museu del Ferrocarril
(Railway Museum; %93 815 84 91; Plaça d’Eduard Maristany;
adult/student & child €4.50/3.50; h10.30am-2.30pm Tue-Fri
& Sun, 10.30am-2.30pm & 4-6.30pm Sat Sep-Jul, 11am-2pm
& 5-8pm daily Aug), located in the 19th-century
installations for the maintenance of steam
trains, next to the train station. The collection
of steam locomotives attracts kids of all ages.
Festivals
Vilanova i la Geltrú stages a riotous carnaval
(carnival) in February that lasts for 13 days.
One of the highpoints is the Batalla dels Caramels (Battle of the Sweeties), when townsfolk
in costume launch more than 100,000 kilograms of sweeties at one another!
Sleeping & Eating
It’s easy enough to pop down to Vilanova for
the day from Barcelona or Sitges but there is
one serious reason for hanging out a little
longer…
Hotel Cèsar (%93 815 11 25; www.hotelcesar.net; Carrer d’Isaac Peral 4-8; r €90-160; ais) The town’s
top hotel is set in a leafy, tranquil part of
town just back from the waterfront. It offers
a series of double rooms and suites in a variety
of categories. The best rooms have their own
computers with broadband Internet access.
Saunter to the sauna, or opt for a massage. Or
you can just chill in the garden after a day at
the nearby beach. The hotel is also home to
La Fitorra (meals €30; Tuesday to Saturday,
lunch only on Sunday), one of the senior
denizens of local cooking.
pop 61,430
Six minutes west of Sitges by train, Vilanova
is home to the culinary delicacy of xató
(an almond-and-hazelnut sauce used on
The town is just down the rodalies (line C2)
from Sitges. From Barcelona the fare will set
you back €2.40.
C O S TA D AU R A D A • • A l t a f u l l a 387
ALTAFULLA
pop 1675
Once a Roman holiday resort for the affluent citizens of Tarragona, this town about
10km east of Tarragona was converted into a
fortified settlement in the wake of the Muslim invasion. The original medieval core of
Altafulla is small but charming, all cream
and whitewashed walls with rose-coloured
stone portals and windows. Capping it is a
13th-century castle.
Altafulla’s broad beach (about 2km away on
the other side of the freeway) is backed by a
row of cheerful single-storey houses known as
the Botigues de Mar (Sea Shops). Until well into
the 19th century they served as warehouses
but have since been converted into houses –
many available for holiday let.
Sleeping & Eating
Alberg Casa Gran (%977 65 07 79; Plaçeta 12; dm student & under 26yr/26yr & over €18/21) In the old part
of town, this is one of the region’s more enchantingly placed youth hostels. Occupying
a fine old mansion with a terrace, it even incorporates a tower belonging to the old town
walls.
Faristol (%977 65 00 77; Carrer de Sant Martí 5, Altafulla; meals €30; hlunch & dinner Jun-Sep, dinner Fri, lunch &
dinner Sat & Sun Oct-May) Housed in an 18th-century
mansion built by indianos (locals who had
made their fortune in the Americas) in the
old town, the restaurant offers traditional
Catalan cooking with an emphasis on seafood.
There are also some surprises thrown in, such
as tandoori. Upstairs are five pretty rooms
(singles/doubles €50/70).
A host of local trains run to Altafulla from
Tarragona (€1.30 to €1.50, 10 minutes).
TARRAGONA
pop 128,150
Tarragona was first occupied by the Romans,
who called it Tarraco, in 218 BC. In 27 BC
Augustus made it the capital of his new Tarraconensis province (roughly all modern Spain)
and stayed until 25 BC, directing campaigns
in Cantabria and Asturias. Tarragona was
abandoned when the Muslims arrived in AD
714, but reborn as the seat of a Christian
archbishopric in 1089. Today its rich Roman
remains and fine medieval cathedral make it
an absorbing place.
C ATA L O N I A
C ATA L O N I A
TRAIN
COSTA DAURADA
Book
TRANSPORT
Balcó Bus to Beaches..............33 F2
ENTERTAINMENT
Cova del Jazz.........................31 D3
Discos....................................32 D4
Music Bars...........................(see 32)
SEA
M
eig
ss
Pa
i
Ba
Train
Station
Port
Esportiu
32
Plaça de
la Carros
30
Plaça
dels
Carros
Car
Barcreer de
lona
31
ar
Plaça Ca
rrer d
dels
e Sm
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Ca r r e
Carre
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17
F2
B4
B4
F1
EATING
Bar Toful................................25
EI Varadero............................26
L'Ancora................................27
Quim Quima..........................28
ere
tP
26
San
de
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e
27
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Ca e
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a
C vin
Serrallo
Gra
SLEEPING
Hostal La Noria.......................22 E2
Hotel Lauria............................23 E3
Hotel Plaça de la Font.............24 E2
Necròpolis Paleocristians........
Car 19 A2
Malrler20
Passeig Arqueològic................
orcade E1
Pretori i Circ Romans..............21 F2
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Amfiteatre Romà....................10 F3
Catedral..................................11 F1
Entrance to Catedral,
Cloister...............................12 F1
Fòrum Romà..........................13 D3
Museu Casa Castellarnau........14 E1
Museu d'Art Modern..............15 F2
Museu d'Història de les Armes
Antigues.............................16 E2
Museu Diocesá....................(see 12)
Museu del Port......................17 B4
Museu Nacional Arqueològic de
Tarragona..........................18 F2
19
DRINKING
EI Cau....................................29 E2
Pub Sis.................................. 30 D4
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Hospital Joan XXIII (500m);
Aqüeducte Romà (4km);
Barcelona (96km);
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INFORMATION
Ciberespai................................1
Guàrdia Urbana.......................2
Post Office..............................3
Regional Tourist Office............4
Tourist Information Kiosk.........5
Tourist Infromation Kiosk..........8
Tourist Office...........................9
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The main street is Rambla Nova, which runs
roughly northwest from a clifftop overlooking the Mediterranean. A couple of blocks to
the east, and parallel, is Rambla Vella, which
marks the beginning of the old town and, incidentally, follows the line of the Via Augusta,
the Roman road from Rome to Cádiz.
The train station is about 500m southwest
of Rambla Nova, near the seafront, and the
bus station is about 2km inland, just to the
northwest, off Plaça Imperial de Tàrraco.
oan
Sant J
C de
Figueres 58; per hr €1.80; h9am-11pm Mon-Fri, 10am11pm Sat & Sun)
Guàrdia Urbana (%977 24 03 45; Carrer de Prat de
Riba 37)
Hospital Joan XXIII (%977 23 27 14; Passeig de
Torroja 58)
Information kiosks (h10am-2pm Sat & Sun Apr-Sep)
These are scattered about town.
Post office (Plaça de Corsini; h8.30am-8.30pm MonFri, 9.30am-2pm Sat)
Regional tourist office (%977 23 34 15; Carrer de Fortuny 4; h9am-2pm & 4-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat)
Tourist office (%977 25 07 95; www.tarragonatur
isme.es; Carrer Major 39; h9am-9pm Mon-Sat, 10am3pm Sun Jul-Sep, 10am-2pm & 4-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am2pm Sun & holidays Oct-Jun)
Sights & Activities
Pick up the handy Ruta Arqueològica Urbana brochure from the main tourist office.
It details more than 30 locations throughout
the old town where Roman remains can be
viewed, some of them in shops and restaurants. If they are not too busy with customers,
shop owners are generally happy for individuals to drop by and take a look.
CATEDRAL
Sitting grandly at the top of the old town,
Tarragona’s cathedral (%977 23 86 85; Pla de la Seu;
admission €2.40; h10am-1pm & 4-7pm Mon-Sat mid-Mar–
May, 10am-7pm Mon-Sat Jun–mid-Oct, 10am-5pm Mon-Sat
mid-Oct–mid-Nov, 10am-2pm Mon-Sat mid-Nov–mid-Mar) is
a treasure house deserving 1½ hours or more
of your time, if you’re to do it justice. Built
between 1171 and 1331 on the site of a Roman
temple, it combines Romanesque and Gothic
features, as typified by the main façade on Pla
de la Seu. The entrance is by the cloister on
the northwest flank of the building.
C O S TA D AU R A D A • • Ta r r a g o n a 389
The cloister has Gothic vaulting and Romanesque carved capitals, one of which shows
rats conducting what they imagine to be a cat’s
funeral…until the cat comes back to life! The
rooms off the cloister house the Museu Diocesà, with an extensive collection extending
from Roman hairpins to some lovely 12th- to
14th-century polychrome woodcarvings of a
breastfeeding Virgin.
The interior of the cathedral, over 100m
long, is Romanesque at the northeast end and
Gothic at the southwest. The aisles are lined
with 14th- to 19th-century chapels and hung
with 16th- and 17th-century tapestries from
Brussels. The arm of St Thecla, Tarragona’s
patron saint, is normally kept in the Capella de
Santa Tecla on the southeastern side. The choir
in the centre of the nave has 15th-century
carved walnut stalls. The marble main altar
was carved in the 13th century with scenes
from the life of St Thecla.
MUSEU D’HISTÒRIA DE TARRAGONA
This museum (www.museutgn.com; adult/student & senior
per site €2/1, all sites €8/4; sites h9am-9pm Tue-Sat, 9am3pm Sun & holidays Easter-Sep, 9am-5pm Tue-Sat, 10am-3pm
Sun & holidays Oct-Easter) comprises four separate
Roman sites (which since 2000 together have
constituted a Unesco World Heritage site) and
a 14th-century noble mansion, which now
serves as the Museu Casa Castellarnau (%977 24
22 20; Carrer dels Cavallers 14).
Start with the Pretori i Circ Romans (%977 24 19
52; Plaça del Rei), which includes part of the vaults
of the Roman circus, where chariot races were
held. The circus, 300m long, stretched from
here to beyond Plaça de la Font to the west.
Nearby Plaça del Fòrum was the location of
the provincial forum and political heart of
Tarraconensis province. Near the beach is the
well-preserved Amfiteatre Romà (%977 24 25 79),
where gladiators battled each other, or wild
animals, to the death. In its arena are the remains of 6th- and 12th-century churches built
to commemorate the martyrdom of the Christian bishop Fructuosus and two deacons, who,
they say, were burnt alive here in AD 259.
Southeast of Carrer de Lleida are remains of
the Fòrum Romà, dominated by several imposing columns. The northwest half of this site
was occupied by a judicial basilica (where
legal disputes were settled), from which the
rest of the forum stretched downhill to the
southwest. Linked to the site by a footbridge
is another excavated area with a stretch of
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388 C O S TA D AU R A D A • • Ta r r a g o n a
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FIRE-BREATHERS, GIANTS & HUMAN CASTLES
Catalans get up to unusual tricks at festa time. Fire and fireworks play a big part in many Spanish
festivals, but Catalonia adds a special twist with the correfoc (fire-running), in which devil and
dragon figures run through the streets spitting fireworks at the crowds. (Wear protective clothes
if you intend to get close!)
Correfocs are often part of the festa major, a town or village’s main annual festival, which usually take place in July or August. Part of the festa major fun are the sardana (Catalonia’s national
round-dance) and gegants, splendidly attired 5m-high giants that parade through the streets or
dance in the squares. Giants tend to come in male-and-female pairs, such as a medieval king
and queen. Almost every town and village has its own pair, or up to six pairs, of giants. They’re
accompanied by grotesque ‘dwarfs’ (known as capsgrossos, or ‘big heads’).
On La Nit de Sant Joan (23 June), big bonfires burn at crossroads and town squares in a combined midsummer and St John’s Eve celebration, and fireworks explode all night. The supreme
fire festival is the Patum in Berga. An evening of dancing and firework-spitting angels, devils,
mulelike monsters, dwarfs, giants and men covered in grass culminates in a mass frenzy of fire
and smoke. The ‘real’ Patum happens on Corpus Christi (the Thursday following the eighth Sunday after Easter Sunday) although there are simplified versions over the next two or three days.
Unesco declared the Patum a World Heritage item in 2005.
A more orderly celebration is the building of castells – human castles. Valls, Vilafranca del
Penedès and Terrassa have three of the most famous teams of castellers. The golden age was
the 1880s, when castells such as tres de nou (‘three of nine’, ie nine storeys of three people)
were achieved.
There are various ways of constructing a castell: those built without a pinya, folre or manilles
(extra rings of support for the first, second and third storeys) are tricky and termed net (clean).
A completed castell is signalled by the child at the top (the anxaneta) raising their arm, a cue
for tumultuous applause and cheering. A castell that manages to dismantle itself without collapsing is descarregat. Especially difficult is a pilar, a tower of one person per storey, which has
a record of eight storeys.
Every two years a championship competition is held in Tarragona’s bullring. The most successful
club, the Castellers de Vilafranca, took their third successive title in 2006. The next one will be in
October 2008. Otherwise, these and many other teams turn up at festes all over Catalonia.
MUSEU NACIONAL ARQUEOLÒGIC
DE TARRAGONA
This carefully presented museum (%977 23 62 09;
www.mnat.es; Plaça del Rei 5; adult/senior & under 18yr €2.40/
free; h10am-8pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun & holidays JunSep, 10am-1.30pm & 4-7pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun & holidays
Oct-May) gives further insight into Roman Tar-
raco, although most explanatory material is in
Catalan or Castilian. Exhibits include part of
the Roman city walls, frescoes, sculpture and
pottery. A highlight is the large, almost complete
Mosaic de Peixos de la Pineda, showing fish and
sea creatures. In the section on everyday arts
you can admire ancient fertility aids including an outsized stone penis, symbol of the god
Priapus.
Admission entitles you to enter the museum at the Necròpolis Paleocristians (%977 21
11 75; Avinguda de Ramón i Cajal 80; adult/senior & under
18yr €2.40/free with Museu Nacional Arqueológic de Tarragona;
h10am-8pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun Jul-Sep, 10am-5.30pm
Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun Oct-Jun). This large Christian
cemetery of late-Roman and Visigothic times
is on Passeig de la Independència on the western edge of town and boasts some surprisingly
elaborate tombs. Unfortunately only its small
museum is open at present.
MUSEU D’ART MODERN
This modest art gallery (%977 23 50 32; Carrer de Santa
Anna 8; admission free; h10am-8pm Tue-Fri, 10am-3pm & 58pm Sat, 11am-2pm Sun & holidays) is at its most interest-
ing when temporary exhibitions take place.
MUSEU D’HISTÒRIA DE LES ARMES
ANTIGUES
If you’re into old swords, lances and pistols, this
museum (Carrer de la Nau 12; admission €3; h10am-1pm &
4-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-1pm Sun) is an interesting stop.
MUSEU DEL PORT
Down by the waterfront, this curious museum
(%977 25 94 42; Refugi 2 Moll de la Cost; adult/student
€1.80/1.20; h10am-2pm & 5-8pm Tue-Sat, 11am-2pm Sun
& holidays Jun-Sep; 10am-2pm & 4-7pm Tue-Sat, 11am-2pm
Sun & holidays Oct-May) is housed in a dockside
shed. There’s not a lot to it; there are some
displays tracing the history of the port from
Roman times (in Catalan and Castilian only),
a few model boats and one or two other seafaring items.
PONT DEL DIABLE
The so-called Devil’s Bridge is actually the
Aqüeducte Romà (admission free; h9am-dusk), yet another of the marvels the Romans left behind.
It sits, somewhat incongruously, in the leafy
rough just off the AP7 freeway, which leads
into Tarragona (near where it intersects with
the N240). It is a fine stretch of two-tiered
aqueduct (217m long and 27m high), along
which you can totter to the other side. Bus 5 to
Sant Salvador from Plaça Imperial de Tàrraco,
running every 10 to 20 minutes, will take you
to the vicinity, or park in one of the lay-bys
marked on either side of the AP7, just outside
the freeway toll gates.
BEACHES
The town beach, Platja del Miracle, is reasonably
clean but can get terribly crowded. Platja Arrabassada, 1km northeast across the headland,
is longer, and Platja Llarga, beginning 2km
further out, stretches for about 3km. Buses 1
and 9 from the Balcó stop on Via Augusta go
to both (€1.05). You can get the same buses
from along Rambla Vella and Rambla Nova.
Sleeping
Camping Las Palmeras (%977 20 80 81; www.laspalm
eras.com; sites per 2-person tent & car €37; ps) This
cheerful camping ground lies at the far end
of Platja Llarga (3km northeast of Tarragona)
C O S TA D AU R A D A • • Ta r r a g o n a 391
and is one of the better of eight camping
grounds scattered behind the beaches northeast of the city. A big pool stretches out amid
leafy parkland just back from the beach. The
camping ground enjoys a 1.5km stretch of
seaside frontage and untouched coastal woodland nearby.
Hostal La Noria (%977 23 87 17; Plaça de la Font
53; s/d €21/34) For a bargain basement position
right on the old town’s main square, you
can’t do much better than these corner digs.
Rooms are simple enough but have their own
attached clean bathroom, and those with a
balcony assure you a window on old Tarragona’s street life.
Hotel Plaça de la Font (%977 24 61 34; www.hotel
pdelafont.com; Plaça de la Font 26; s/d €40/58; a) A
notch up and also on the town square is this
crisp pensión with its own restaurant. Rooms,
although a trifle cramped, have a pleasing
modern look, with soft colours, sturdy beds
and, in the case of half the rooms, little balconies with views over the square.
Hotel Lauria (%977 23 67 12; www.hlauria.es; Rambla
Nova 20; s/d €40/58; as) With its dignified façade
along the city’s grandest boulevard, the hotel
has a whiff of another era. The rooms are a little
on the functional side, but the best have parquet floors, leather-backed furniture and the
occasional nice touch such as fresh flowers.
Eating
Bar Toful (%977 21 42 16; Arc de Sant Bernat 4; meals
€15-20; h8am-6pm Mon-Thu, 8am-midnight Fri & Sat)
Since the 1940s this knockabout bar has been
a mecca for locals in search of good ol’ tapas
over a beer or two. During the day people drop
by for a tipple, and on weekend evenings others crowd in for a steak in mushroom sauce,
or fish – a cheap, cheerful and good-value
dinner. The midday menú del día (€8.75) is
also good value, with a generous gazpacho
and choice of meat and fish mains.
Quim Quima (%977 25 21 21; Carrer de les Coques
1bis; meals €35, menú del día €14.90; hTue-Sat) This renovated medieval mansion makes a marvellous
setting for a meal. Huddle up to bare stone wall
or opt for the shady little courtyard. The playful
menu is wide-ranging, including sausage and
cheese crepes, lasagna, various types of meat
fondue, including one in which you cook the
meat in boiling white wine.
The quintessential Tarragona seafood experience can best be had in Serrallo, the town’s
fishing port. About a dozen bars and restaurants
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Roman street. This forum was the hub of public and religious life for the Roman town. The
discovery in 2006 of remains of the foundations of a temple to Jupiter, Juno and Minerva
(the major triumvirate of gods at the time of
the Roman republic) suggests the forum was
much bigger and more important than previously assumed.
The Passeig Arqueològic is a peaceful walk
around part of the perimeter of the old town
between two lines of city walls; the inner ones
are mainly Roman, while the outer ones were
put up by the British during the War of the
Spanish Succession.
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392 C O S TA D AU R A D A • • P o r t Ave n t u r a
here sell the day’s catch, and on summer weekends in particular the place is packed. Most of
the restaurants close their kitchens fairly early,
by 10.30pm.
L’Ancora (Carrer de Trafalgar 25; meals €25-30; 1pm1am) and its sister establishment El Varadero
(Carrer de Trafalgar 13) brim with mouthwatering
seafood. Go for a selection of dishes, which
might include tigres (stuffed, breaded and
fried mussels), ostrón (fat oyster) and cigalas
a la plancha (grilled crayfish). Whatever you
choose, it’ll be good. You can sit inside (head
upstairs) or, in the summer, take up a seat at
one of the outdoor tables. Hour-long queues
at midnight on summer weekends are not
unheard-of.
The main concentration of nightlife is the bars
and clubs along the waterfront near the Port
Esportiu (marina), and in some of the streets
in front of the train station, such as along
Carrer de la Pau del Protectorat.
Pub Sis (%977 23 80 14; Carrer de Barcelona 6; h8pm3am) For a dose of ’80s music, this is a goodnatured place to stop by for a drink and loud
conversation. At nearby Cova del Jazz (Carrer de
Pau del Protectorat 5) you can encounter live music
from 11pm.
El Cau (%977 23 12 12; www.elcau.net; Carrer de Trinquet Vell; hdaily) Set in one of the vaults of the
Roman circus, this is the best place for dancing in central Tarragona. Various DJs and acts
perform on most nights, ensuring that no two
nights are the same. Check the website for
which maestro is on that particular night.
Up to 15 trains a day run south to Valencia
(€14.75 to €31.30, two to 3½ hours) and several proceed down the coast and into Andalucía. Up to 11 head northwest to Lleida (€5.40
to €15.10, up to one hour 40 minutes).
PORT AVENTURA
One of Spain’s most popular funfair-adventure parks (%902 20 20 41 or %902 20 22 20; www
.portaventura.es; mid-Sep–mid-Jun adult/senior & child 5-12yr
€37/30, Jul & Aug €35/28, 2-day tickets €53.50/43; h10ammidnight Jul-Aug, 10am-8pm Easter-Jun & Sep, 10am-7pm Oct)
lies 7km west of Tarragona. It makes an amusing day out, especially if you have children in
tow. The park has plenty of spine-tingling
rides and other attractions, such as the Temple
del Foc (Temple of Fire) and Hurakan Condor
(at 100m one of the highest amusement park
rides in Europe), spread across themed areas
ranging from the Wild West to Polynesia.
Opening days and hours from November to
March vary greatly. The park usually opens on
weekends and holidays but it is wise to check.
In addition to the main area, Port Aventura
Park, the complex includes two hotels and Caribe
Aquatic Park (adult/child & senior €19/15.50 mid-May–Sep,
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has developed around the original old village
and fishing port, 18km southwest of Tarragona. Although sun and sand are uppermost
in many people’s minds, the place rewards a
bit of exploration, with several medieval towers, some Roman remains, the busy fishing
port and, above all, something of a reputation
as a culinary magnet.
For good seafood, try bustling La Roca d’en
Manel (%977 36 30 24; Passeig de Miramar 38; meals €2530; hTue-Sun), a few steps away from where the
fishing boats tie up. Service can be abrupt, but
the portions are tasty and generous. A step up
in class is the nearby Casa Gatell (%977 36 00 57;
06; adult/student & senior €2.40/1.80; h10am-1.30pm &
4-7.30pm Tue-Sun Jun-Sep, 10am-1.30pm & 3-5.30pm Tue-Sun
Oct-May), a 12th-century monastery complex,
Passeig de Miramar 26; meals €45-55; hTue-Sat, lunch only
Sun), where you might succumb to the succulent
are a 1km walk out of the village. Guided visits
(usually in Catalan) are available on weekends
(€4.50/3.90).
To the southeast, 4km west of the village of
Riudecanyes, stands the Castell-Monestir de Sant
Miquel d’Escornalbou (%977 83 40 07; adult/student
& senior €2.40/1.80; h10am-1.30pm & 4-7.30pm Tue-Sun
Jun-Sep, 10am-1.30pm & 3-5.30pm Tue-Sun Oct-May). Dat-
of wet rides.
Trains run to Port Aventura’s own station,
about a 1km walk from the site, several times
a day from Tarragona (€1.20 to €1.50, 10 to 15
minutes) and Barcelona (from €5.20 to €5.95,
around 1½ hours). By road, take exit 35 from
the AP7, or the N340 from Tarragona.
REUS & AROUND
CAMBRILS
Lying on main routes south from Barcelona,
Tarragona is well connected. The train is generally the much easier option.
pop 99,500
pop 26,210
Reus was, for much of the second half of the
19th century, the second most important city
in Catalonia and a major export centre of textiles and brandy. Birthplace of Gaudí, it boasts
a series of Modernista mansions. The tourist
office (%902 36 02 00; turisme.reus.net; Carrer de Sant Joan
s/n; h9.30am-1.30pm & 4-7pm Mon-Sat) can provide a
map guiding you to 30-odd Modernista mansions around the town centre. The tourist office
organises guided visits (sometimes in English
and French) to some of the most interesting
of these houses, for which you need to book
in advance. Regular trains connect Reus with
Tarragona (€1.30 to €1.50, 15 to 20 minutes).
About 35km northwest of Reus, above the
pretty mountain village of Siurana, stand the
A sprawling tourist town (more or less an
extension of the high-density tourist ghetto of
Salou), inspired by the place’s long beaches,
Bus services run to Barcelona, Valencia,
Zaragoza, Madrid, Alicante, Pamplona, the
main Andalucian cities, Andorra and the north
coast. As a rule though, you are better off with
the train.
Up to 50 regional and long-distance trains
per day run to/from Barcelona’s Passeig de
Gràcia station via Sants. Fares in turista class
range from €5.40 to €17.20, and the journey
takes 52 minutes to 1½ hours.
caldereta de bogavante (lobster stew; €37).
Cambril is about 25 minutes from Tarragona by local train (€1.50 to €2.10).
TORTOSA
pop 33,700
Home to Iberian tribes some 2000 years ago,
Tortosa has seen them all come and go: Greeks,
Romans, Visigoths and Muslims. The town was
on the northern front line between Christian
and Muslim Spain for four centuries.
As well as the tourist office (%977 44 96 48; www
.turismetortosa.com; Plaça del Carrilet 1; h10am-1.30pm &
4.30-7.30pm Mon & Wed-Sat, 10am-1.30pm Sun Easter-Oct,
10am-1.30pm & 3.30-6.30pm Mon & Wed-Sat, 10am-1.30pm
Sun), there is an information office with similar
hours in the Jardins del Príncep gardens.
The old town, concentrated at the western
end of the city, north of the Ebro, is watched
over by the imposing Castell de la Suda, where
a small medieval Arab cemetery has been
unearthed and in whose grounds there now
stands a fine parador (%977 44 44 50; s/d €116/154;
pas). The Gothic catedral (Seu; h9am-1pm &
4-8pm) dates back to 1347 and contains a pleasant cloister and some baroque additions. Other
TAKING THE BULLS BY THE HORNS
Many Catalans advertise their loathing of bullfighting (an attitude that clashes with Barcelona’s
long history in the spectacle) but some may not be aware that in the southern corner of their
region, locals have indulged in their own summer torment of the animals. In Amposta and other
towns, people celebrate bous capllaçats and bous embolats, the former a kind of tug-of-war
between a bull with ropes tied to its horns and townsfolk, the latter involving bulls running
around with flaming torches attached to their horns. Denounced by animal rights groups, they
are allowed by the Catalan government, which recognises the right to hold these festas because
of their long history and the fact that the bulls are not killed. The heated debate shows no signs
of abating in the immediate future.
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TRAIN
€9.50/8 remaining days when only the heated areas are open;
h10am-7pm Jul-Aug, 10am-6pm mid-May–Jun & Sep, 10am5pm late Mar–mid-May), a waterworld with all sorts
C O S TA D AU R A D A • • C a m b r i l s 393
remains of one of the last Muslim castles to fall
to the reconquering Christians. To its west rise
the rocky walls of the Serra de Montsant range,
and the area attracts rock-climbers and walkers. In Siurana you could stay in Can Roig (%977
82 14 50; Carrer Major 6; d €36), a charming, refurbished
stone house in the middle of the village.
From Cornudella de Montsant, 9km from
Siurana, a narrow and picturesque road (the
TV7021) hugs the rugged southern face of
the Montsant westwards to Escaladei, located
in a valley below the mountain range, which
produces some fine El Priorat reds. The evocative ruins of the Cartoixa d’Escaladei (%977 82 70
ing from 1153, much of the castle-monastery
complex is in ruins; parts have been rebuilt
but hardly to exacting historical criteria. The
most interesting elements are the church
(from the 12th and 13th centuries), cloister
and chapterhouse. You will be taken on a
compulsory guided tour, probably in Catalan,
of about half an hour.
There is no public transport to Siurana,
Escaladei or Castell-Monestir de Sant Miquel
d’Escornalbou.
BUS
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394 C O S TA D AU R A D A • • E b r o D e l t a
attractions include the Palau Episcopal and the
lovely Jardins del Príncep, perfect for a stroll.
Hostal Virginia (%977 44 41 86; www.hotelvirginia.net;
Avinguda de la Generalitat 139; s/d €32/54; aiw) is a
cheerful, central stop whose modern if somewhat antiseptic rooms boast good-sized beds
and cool tile floors. There’s a bar downstairs.
The train and bus stations are opposite each
other on Ronda dels Docs. Trains to/from
Barcelona, Lleida and Tarragona (€5.40, one
hour 10 minutes) are more frequent than the
buses. Two to four buses run into the Delta de
l’Ebre area.
EBRO DELTA
The delta of the Río Ebro (Catalan: Delta de
l’Ebre), formed by silt brought down by the
river, sticks out 20km into the Mediterranean
near Catalonia’s southern border. Dotted with
reedy lagoons and fringed by dune-backed
beaches, this flat and exposed wetland is northern Spain’s most important water-bird habitat.
The migration season (October and November) sees the bird population peak, with an
average of 53,000 ducks and 15,000 coots, but
they are also numerous in winter and spring:
10% of all water birds wintering on the Iberian
Peninsula choose to park themselves here.
Nearly half the delta’s 320 sq km are given
over to rice-growing. Some 77 sq km, mostly
along the coasts and around the lagoons, form
the Parc Natural Delta de l’Ebre.
Orientation
h10am-2pm & 3-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun May-Sep,
10am-2pm & 3-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun Oct-Apr) with
a permanent exposition on the delta’s lagoons
at La Casa de Fusta, beside L’Encanyissada
lagoon, 10km southwest of Deltebre. Other offices are in Sant Carles de la Ràpita, Amposta
and L’Ampolla.
Sights & Activities
A good way to explore the delta is by bicycle
and you can rent one from several places in
Deltebre. Lloguer de Bicicletes Torné (%977 48 00
17; Avinguda Goles de l’Ebre 184; per day €10), in the heart
of town, rents out bicycles year-round.
Early morning and evening are the best
times for bird-watching, and good areas include
L’Encanyissada and La Tancada lagoons and
Punta de la Banya, all in the south of the delta.
L’Encanyissada has two observation towers and
La Tancada one (others are marked on a map
you can pick up at the Centred’Informació). La
Tancada and Punta de la Banya are generally
the best places to see the greater flamingos, the
delta’s most spectacular birds. Almost 2000 of
the birds nest here, and since 1992 the delta
has been one of only five places in Europe
where they reproduce. Punta de la Banya is
joined to the delta by a 5km sand spit with the
long, wide and sandy Platja de l’Eucaliptus at
its northern end.
Olmos (%977 48 05 48) is just one of a couple
of companies that run daily tourist boat trips
(1½ hours, €10 per person) from Deltebre to
the mouths of the Ebro and Illa de Buda at the
delta’s tip. Boats go daily, but the frequency
depends on the season (and whether or not
there are enough takers).
which some of what you eat in the restaurant
is grown.
There are a few places to stay in Sant Carles
de la Ràpita, a pleasant fishing town with a
marina.
You’ll find several eateries by Riumar and
the mouth of the river. In La Cava, try Nuri
(%977 48 01 28; Carretera de les Goles; meals €25-30;
hlunch daily), located by the mighty Ebro in a
grand old ivy-covered house. Much of what
you eat, ranging from frog’s legs and eel to
seafood-and-rice dishes, comes from the river
or around about it. Ask about their boat res-
© Lonely Planet Publications
C O S TA D AU R A D A • • E b r o D e l t a 395
taurant, the Santa Susana (%629-204117), tied up
on the river a little further along.
The delta is easiest to get to and around with
your own wheels, but it is possible to reach
Tortosa by bus or a train-bus combination.
Autocars Hife (%902 11 98 14; www.hife.net) runs
buses to Jesús i Maria and La Cava from
Tortosa (€2.35, 50 minutes) up to four times
daily (twice on Saturday, Sunday and holidays), and from Amposta (€1.20, 30 minutes)
once daily.
Sleeping
Information
Camping Eucaliptus (%977 47 90 46; sites per 2-person tent
& car €19.75; hApr–mid-Oct) This camping ground
is in a small eucalyptus grove just back from
Platja de l’Eucaliptus. It has its own restaurant, bar and minimarket. There are two more
camping grounds at Riumar, 10km east of
Deltebre.
Delta Hotel (%977 48 00 46; www.dsi.es/delta-hotel;
The Centre d’Informació (%977 48 96 79; Carrer de
Avinguda del Canal, Camí de l’Illeta s/n; s/d €56/94; pa)
Martí Buera 22, Deltebre; h10am-2pm & 3-7pm Mon-Sat,
10am-2pm Sun May-Sep, 10am-2pm & 3-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am2pm Sun Oct-Apr) is combined with an Ecomuseu
(admission €1.20; hsame as Centre d’Informació), with
On the northern edge of Deltebre, by the road
to Riumar, this delightful hotel has modern
rooms, as well as a good restaurant. Lounge
around in the leafy courtyard and gardens in
© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
C ATA L O N I A
C ATA L O N I A
The delta is a seaward-pointing arrowhead of
land with the Ebro flowing eastwards across
it’s middle. The town of Deltebre straggles
about 5km along the northern bank of the
river at the centre of the delta. Deltebre’s western half is called Jesús i Maria and the eastern
half La Cava. Facing Deltebre on the southern
bank is Sant Jaume d’Enveja. Roads crisscross
the delta to Deltebre and beyond from the
towns of L’Ampolla, Amposta and Sant Carles
de la Ràpita, all on the N340. Three ferries
(transbordadors), running from early morning until nightfall, link Deltebre to Sant Jaume
d’Enveja (two people and a car €2.50).
displays describing the delta environment and
an aquarium-terrarium of delta species.
There’s another information office (admission €1.50;
lonelyplanet.com

Catalonia COSTA BRAVA

Transcription

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