Edible Container Gardening - How-To Guide

Edible Container
Gardening How-To Guide
Master Gardeners of Northern
Virginia
And
Virginia Cooperative Extension
2008
1
Steps to grow your own edible container garden
•Check with your homeowner’s association for any restrictions
•Read and become familiar with this How-To Guide
•Start a garden journal and record the following:
What direction does your garden space face and how long does each area
receive full sun each day?
Based on “Sunlight Required” in the Planting Guidelines, what plants do you
want & can to grow and how many?
Based on “Spacing” and “Soil Depth” in the Planting Guidelines, how many
and what size containers do you need?
Based on Culinary Combination and Companion Planting which plants could
you combine into one container?
Based on “Propagation” in the Planting Guideline Chart which plants will
you start from seed, purchase as a transplant or sow directly?
Based on the Planting Dates chart, when do you need to start seeds or put in
transplants?
•Make a container garden map with numbers corresponding to a list of plants and
letters corresponding to a list of container (types and size)
•Make of list of materials needed, gather those matierals and begin
•Enjoy the wonderful rewards of gardening, both culinary and experiential
Resources
CoCo-op Extension Service Bulletins
Cotner, Sam. “Vegetable Gardening In Containers “ [Online] Available http://aggiehorticulture.tamu.edu/extension/container/container.html.
deLong, Eric. “Growing Vegetables, Herbs and Annual Flowers in Containers” [Online] Available
http://www.gardening.cornell.edu/factsheets/misc/containers.pdf
Relf, Diane. “Self-Contained Planters” [Online] Available
http://www.ext.vt.edu/departments/envirohort/factsheets2/specdesigns/may89pr6.html, April 1997.
Traunfeld, Jon. “Container Vegetable Gardening: Healthy Harvests from Small Spaces” [Online]
Available http://www.hgic.umd.edu/_media/documents/HG600Containerveggardening.pdf, April 2006.
Seed Sources:
Landreth Seed http://www.landrethseeds.com/catalog/patio_gardener.php
Southern Exposure Seed Exchange http://www.southernexposure.com
Johnny's Selected Seeds http://www.johnnyseeds.com
Kitchen Garden Seeds http://www.kitchengardenseeds.com
iVillage GardenWeb Seed Exchange http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/exseed/
Forums:
Yahoo http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ediblecontainergardens/
You Grow Girl http://www.yougrowgirl.com/index.php
iVillage GardenWeb http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/contain/
Books:
Crandall, Chuck and Barara. Movable Harvests: The Simplicity and Bounty of Container Gardens.
Shelburne: Chapters Pub. Ltd., 1995
Guerra, M. The Edible Container Garden: Growing Fresh Food in Small Spaces. . New York: Simon &
Schuster, 2000
McGee, Rose Marie Nichols and Maggie Stuckey. The Bountiful Gardener: A Container Garden of
Vegetables, Herbs, Fruits, and Edible Flowers. New York: Workman Publishing, 2002
Trail, Gayla. You Grow Girl: The Groundbreaking Guide to Gardening. New York: Fireside, 2005
2
Culinary Combos
Plant
Asian
Chinese (narrow) eggplant, any hot pepper, snow peas, and bok choy. Sow snow
peas and bok choy in early spring and again in mid-to late summer for a fall harvest.
Fine Herbs
Tarragon, chives, parsley, and chervil. Set the first two perennials toward the rear of
the container, so you will not disturb their roots at the end of the season when you
pull up the other herbs.
Mexican / Southwest
Poblano, Anaheim, and Jalapeno peppers, Summer Squash, Tomatoes, Tomatillo,
Garlic, Onions
Caribbean
Habanero Pepper, Chile de Arbol Pepper, Bell Pepper, Tomato, Onion, Squash,
Cucumber, Garlic
Kids’ Corner
Radishes, tomato plant, bush beans, basil, and carrots. Set tomato plant in center.
Alternate clumps of basil and bean seeds in a circle around tomato. Mix seeds of
radishes and carrots together and sow around outer edge; radishes will be pulled
before carrots need more space to grow.
The Hot Pickle Barrel
Pickling Cucumbers, Cauliflower, Hungarian Hot Pepper, Pepperoncini, Chile de
Arbol Pepper, Onions, Garlic and Dill
Winter Pickings
Cabbages (Red and Green), Cauliflower, Brussel Sprouts, Broccoli, Swiss Chard
Summer Salad Bowl
Patio tomato and sweet pepper (in center of a round container or at each end of a
rectangular one), one or two cucumber plants near edge (let them spill over, without
support), radishes and red- and green-leaf lettuce in middle spaces.
Seasonal Garden
Spring leaf lettuce followed by summer beans on a tepee succeeded by fall peas. Set
up tepee when you plant lettuce seedlings. Sow beans while lettuce is still growing;
plants provide lettuce with a bit of shade from the hot sun. Sow peas in late summer
where lettuce was and while beans continue to produce.
Authentic Salsa Garden
Jalapeno Peppers, Poblano Peppers, Tomatillos, Tomatoes, Onions, Garlic, Cilantro.
Sow the cilantro seeds around the edge of the container. If you want onions in your
salsa, plant them in a separate, deep planter.
Plant
Companion Plants
Incompatible
Plants
Beans
Most Vegetables & Herbs
Onion, Garlic, Chives
Beans, Bush
Irish Potato, Cucumber, Corn, Strawberry, Celery, Summer Savory
Onion
Beans, Pole
Corn, Summer Savory, Radish
Onion, Beets,
Kohlrabi, Sunflower
Cabbage Family
Aromatic Herbs, Celery, Beets, Onion Family, Chamomile, Spinach, Chard
Dill, Strawberries,
Pole Beans, Tomato
Carrots
English Pea, Lettuce, Rosemary, Onion Family, Sage, Tomato
Dill
Corn
Irish Potato, Beans, English Pea, Pumpkin, Cucumber, Squash
Tomato
Cucumber
Beans, Corn, English Pea, Sunflowers, Radish
Irish Potato, Aromatic
Herbs
Eggplant
Beans, Marigold
Lettuce
Carrot, Radish, Strawberry, Cucumber
Onion Family
Beets, Carrot, Lettuce, Cabbage Family, Summer Savory
Beans, English Peas
3
Planting Guidelines
FS - full sun (6 - 8 hours) PS - part sun (4 - 6 hours)
Plant
Propagation
Spacing (inches
apart)
Soil Depth
Sun
Recommended Varieties
Beans
Bush
From seed
5”
16” to 18”
FS
Filet Beans, Delinel, Provider
Snap
From seed
5”
16” to 18”
FS
Roc D'or , Roma II, Royal Burgundy
Lima
From seed
5”
16” to 18”
FS
Allgreen/Thorogreen , White Dixie Wonder
Pole
From seed
5”
16” to 18”
FS
Kentucky Blue, Super Marconi, Trionfo Violetto, Yellow
Annellino
Cylindra (Forono), Early Wonder, Detroit Dark Red
Beets
From seed
3”
9” to 12”
PS
Broccoli
Transplants
12”
12” to 14”
PS
Small Miracle Hybrid, Pac Man, Munchkin, Super Blend, Italian
Green Sprouting
Cabbage
Transplants
12”
12” to 14”
PS
Early Jersey Wakefield
Canteloupe
From seed
12"
24"
FS
Minnesota Midget, Musketeer
Carrots
From seed
2”
9” to 18” *
PS
Kinko, Oxheart, Little Finger, Thumbelina *(depends on the
length of the carrot)
Double Play, Blue Jade, Golden Queen
Corn
From seed
6"
14"
FS
Cucumbers
Either way
12”
16” to 18”
FS
Cauliflower
Transplants
12”
12” to 14”
PS
Eggplant
Transplants
12”
14” to 16”
FS
Fullness, Little Fingers, Calliope Hybrid, Fairy Tale Hybrid, Black
Beauty, Rosa Bianca, Bambino Hybrid
Swiss Chard
Either way
5-6"
9” to 12”
PS
Bright Lights, Perpetual Spinach
Collards
Either way
5-6"
9” to 12”
PS
Champion OP
Kale
Either way
5-6"
9” to 12”
PS
Red Russian, Tuscan, Red Flowering,' Nogoy Red'
Calendula
Transplants
8"
6”
FS/PS
Marigolds
Either way
8"
6”
FS
Signet Red Gem, Tangerine Gem
Nasturtiums
From seed
6"
6”
FS
Empress of India
Violoas (Pansies,
violets, Johnny
Jump-Ups)
Sunflowers
Transplants
4"
6”
FS/PS
From seed
6"
12"
FS
8-10"
PS
FS
Marketmore 86, Homemade Pickles, Lemon, Spacemaster,
Miniature White, Salad Bush Hybrid , West India Burr Gherkin ,
Bush Pickle , Little Leaf , Cool Breeze
Early Snowball
Leafy greens
Flowers (edible)
Green onions
Either way
Bon Bon
Any variety
Music Box, Sundance Kid, Firecracker, Sunny Smile, Double
Dandy Hybrid
Deep Purple
Herbs
Basil
Transplants
8"
8" to 10"
Compact Genovese, Fino Verde, Lettuce Leaf (Toscano), Purple
Ruffles, Thai
any variety
Chives
Transplants
4-6"
8" to 10"
FS
Cilantro
From seed
6"
8" to 10"
FS/PS
Parsely
From seed
7"
6"
FS
Giant of Naples, Forest Green
PS
Black-Seeded Simpson, Red Deer Tongue, Little Gem Baby
Romaine , Little Leprechaun (Baby Red Romaine), Tom Thumb
Santo (Fresh Coriander)
Leaf Lettuce
From seed
Onions
From seed
3”
9” to 12”
FS
White Sweet Spanish, Yellow Sweet Spanish
Peas
Snow
From seed
3”
14” to 16”
FS
Dwarf Gray Sugar
Sugar snap
From seed
3”
14” to 16”
FS
Sugar Ann, Sugar Snap, Sugar Sprint
Hot
Transplants
12”
14” to 16”
FS
Sweet/Bell
Transplants
12”
14” to 16”
FS
Long Red Cayenne, Jalapeno, Variegata, Fish, Thai hot and Ho
Chi Minh
Sweet Banana, Purple beauty, Klari Baby Cheese
Peppers
4
Planting Guidelines (cont.)
Plant
Propagation
Spacing
(inches
apart)
single
plant/pot
single
plant/pot
Soil Depth
Sun
Recommended Varieties
16” to 18”
FS
Charlotte, Kennebec, Red Pontiac, Irish Cobbler, Epicure
16” to 18”
FS
Potatoes
From seed
Pumpkin
From seed
Radishes
Salad greens
1” to 2”
9” to 12”
PS
Spinach
Arugula
From seed
Either way
From seed
From seed
Orange Smoothy, Cheyenne Bush, Spirit Hybrid, Autumn
Gold Hybrid, Bushkin, Jack Be Little, Small Sugar, Baby
Boo
Cherry Belle, Icicle, Champion, Scarlet Globe
6”
6”
6"
6"
PS
PS
Dark Green Bloomsdale, Melody, America, Avon Hybrid
Italian, Runway, Rustic
Radiccio
Squash, Summer
From seed
Either way
6”
18”
6"
16” to 18”
PS
FS
Squash, Winter
Strawberries
Either way
Transplants
16” to 18”
6" to 8"
FS
FS/PS
Tomatoes
Transplants
18”
24" or
single
plant/pot
18”
n/a
Gold Rush F1 Zucchini , Nimba Zucchini , Spacemiser F1
Hybrid, Scallopini, Baby Crookneck, Creamy, Golden
Nugget, Gold Rush, Zucchini (most varieties)
Table Ace, Cornell Bush Delectica
Earliglow, Ozark Beauty, Eversweet
16” to 18”
FS
Tomatoes, Cherry
Transplants
12”
14” to 16”
FS
Tomatillo
Turnips
Transplants
From seed
12”
4"-6"
14” to 16”
10"
FS
FS/PS
Tiny Tim, Small Fry, Sweet 100, Patio, Burpee's Pixie,
Toy Boy, Early Girl, Better Boy VFN, Pixie, Red Robin,
Sugar Lump, Tumblin' Tom (hanging baskets)
Sweet Million, Sungold, Isis candy, Thai Pink Egg
Toma Verde
Purple White Top, Oasis
Individual Plants by Container Size
Size
Plants
Diameter of 4-6”
Salad greens, Asian greens, mustards, garlic,
radish, basil, cilantro, thyme, mint, and
marjoram. (Salad greens and some herbs have
shallow, fibrous root systems and are well suited
to shallow containers with a large surface area).
Diameter of 8-12”
Beans, beets, chard, carrots, chard, cabbage,
pumpkin, pepper, eggplant, tomato, squash,
rosemary, parsley, lavender, and fennel
Volume of 1-3 gallons
Herbs, green onions, radishes, onion, chard,
pepper, dwarf tomato or cucumber, basil
Volume of 4-5 gallons
Full-size tomato, cucumber, eggplant, beans, peas,
cabbage, and broccoli
5
Planting Chart
Plant
Spring Planting (when seed
started indoors 66-8 weeks
ahead
Direct SowSow-Spring
Fall Planting (when
seed started indoors
6-8 weeks ahead
Direct SowSowFall
Beans
Bush
Snap
Lima
Pole
Beets
Broccoli
Cabbage
Canteloupe
Cauliflower
Carrots
Corn
Cucumbers
Eggplant
Leafy greens
May 1 - Sept 15
May 1 - Sept 15
May 30 - July 30
May 1 - Sept 15
March 1
March 30
March 30
Aug 15
Aug 15
Aug 15
March 30
May 1
May 30 - June 30
May 1
Sept 5
May 15
Swiss Chard
Collards March 30
Kale March 30
May 1
Flowers (edible)
Calendula
Marigolds
Nasturtiums
Violas (Pansies, violets,
Johnny Jump ups)
Sunflowers
Green onions
Herbs
Basil
Chives
Leaf Lettuce
Onions
Peas
April 15
April 15
May 1
March 15
March 15
March 15
April 15
March 15
May 30 - Sept 1
March 1 - Sept 30
Cilantro
Parsely March 15
April 1
March 15
Snow
Sugar snap
March 20 - Aug 30
April 15
Aoril 15
April 1
March 15
Aug 30
March 1
March 1
Peppers
Hot May 15
Sweet/Bell May 15
Potatoes
Pumpkin
Radishes
Salad greens
May 30
May 15
April 1
Spinach
Arugula
Radiccio
Squash, Summer
Squash, Winter
Strawberries
Tomatoes
Tomatoes, Cherry
Tomatillo
Turnips
Sept 5
April 1
April 1
April 1
May 15
May 15
March 1
Sept 5
March 1
Sept 15
May 15
May 15
May 15
6
Containers -Drain holes and drain trays required
•
•
•
Untreated Wood – redwood or cedar
Glazed terra cotta or ceramic
Food-grade plastic – 5 gallon buckets from grocery bakery
Soil Mixes and Growing Media
Seed starting mix
• 1 part perlite
• 1 part compost (sifted through
¼” hardware cloth)
• Milled sphagnum peat moss
for topping seeds
Transplant Media
•
1 part compost (sifted through
¼” hardware cloth)
•
1 part garden topsoil
•
1 part sharp sand
Potting mix for vegetables
• 5 gallons mature compost
• 1 gallon sphagnum moss
(ground)
• 1 gallon sharp sand
• 1 gallon perlite
Potting mix for herbs
• 1 part compost
• 1 part milled sphagnum moss
(ground)
• 2 parts sharp sand
Instructions for 55-Gallon Mini SelfSelf-Watering Garden
Materials List:
5-gallon plastic bucket and lid (food grade) Bakeries, delis
and restaurants will often give them away.
7.5 inch section of 4-inch diameter perforated drain tile
6-inch section of ½ inch (inside diameter) plastic tubing
1 ½ inch wood or decking screw
Electrical Tape
Empty 1-gallon milk jug
Tool List:
Saber saw
Drill
5/16 & ¾ inch drill bits
Utility knife
Hacksaw
1. Using a saber saw or band saw cut the lid so that it fits inside the bucket. (The lid will separate the medium
from the water reservoir)
2. Drill 15 holes, 5/16 inch in diameter in lid. (Plant roots will grow through the medium and pass through these
holes into the reservoir.
3. With a hacksaw, cut 3 pieces of 4-inch diameter black perforated drain tile 2 ½ inches long. (These are placed
in the bottom of the bucket to support the lid-separator).
4. Drill one ¾ inch hole with a drill bit 2 inches above the bottom of the 5-gallon bucket.
5. Cut a 6-inch piece of ½ inch (inside diameter) clear plastic tubing; wrap one end with electrical tape, to create
a snug fit, and insert it into the hole. The tubing will sit directly below the separator.
6. Drive Screw through the tubing (inside the bucket), 1 inch from the end.
7. Cut an “X” with a knife or razor into the shoulder of a 1-gallon milk jug. Insert the end of the tubing into the
milk jug and raise the bucket 8 inches by setting it up on a cinder block or bricks.,
How to Use the “Self“Self-Watering” Bucket Garden
Now that you’ve constructed your mini-garden it’s time to get growing! You’ll be impressed by how easy it is to
recycle water and nutrients. Fill your bucket with about 4 gallons of moistened medium, plant your seeds or plants,
and add 2-3 gallons of water. The reservoir will fill with water and the excess will travel through the tubing into the
milk jug. If it doesn’t rain, your bucket will need to be watered regularly— every day in July and August if it’s in
full sun each day. It will take 1-2 quarts of water each day to fill the reservoir. Before adding new water, simply pour
back the water that collects in the milk jug. Using this technique no water or nutrients are wasted.
This is a portable mini-garden but not lightweight. The five-gallon bucket with moistened growing medium and a
full-grown pepper or tomato plant weighs about 25 lbs. when the water reservoir is filled.
7
SelfSelf-watering MiniMini-Garden
Picture by Maryland Cooperative Extension
8
How to start seeds and transplant
Figure out when to plant seeds indoor (see chart entitled Planting Dates)
What you'll need
Seed starting medium
Container - peat pots, 4" deep seedling flat (plastic or untreated wood)
Drip tray or sheet of plastic
Clear plastic wrap
Labels - Tape, plastic spoons, popsicle sticks
4' florescent light fixture and 4 props - gallon paint containers, soup cans, phonebooks, bricks
Clean spray bottle
How to
Make or purchase seed starting medium
Press gently into tray(s) and water thoroughly.
Plant seeds and cover as recommended on packet
Cover container loosely with clear plastic wrap
Keep medium moist.
When seeds have sprouted, remove plastic and prop florescent fixture 4" above seedlings.
Raise accordingly.
Thin seedlings if needed (Snip off discards at soil line with fine scissors)
Move into larger pots when seedling has three sets of true leaves. Use transplant media for
pots. Pluck seedling from trays using knife and gently transplant holding leaves only.
Gradually acclimate plant to outdoor climate. Day 1 - Outside 1-2 hrs. Day 2 - Outside 3-4 ,
etc.
Buying good plants
Short and compact is better than tall and lanky (leggy)
Avoid roots growing out of bottom of container
Check stems and undersides of leaves for indication of disease or insects.
Planting the containers
Fill container with potting soil up to 2" from the top and water thoroughly.
Direct sowing into container
Follow instructions on seed packet on how deep to plant seed and spacing
Usually plant as deep as its own largest dimension
For oval or round containers, plant in concentric circles
For rectangular, plant in tight rows
Thin seedlings with fine scissors when they sprout
Transplanting into container
Thoroughly water plants prior to transplanting
With trowel, dig a hole as deep as the intended transplant's pot
Slide your fingers around the base of the plant and turn it upside down so the plant slides
out
Try to keep an intact soil ball around the transplant
Place plant into hole in container and fill in with extra potting mix
Tamp soil lightly and proceed to next plant.
When complete water entire container to help plants settle
Try to perform transplanting on a cloudy day to protect roots
9
How to care for your container garden
When & How to Water
Growing medium is dry an inch below the surface
In the morning
Using a soft stream of water
Directly on the growing medium – not the foliage
Until water drains from the bottom of the container
Chlorinated water is not good for plants – consider a filter
When to Fertilize
Organic Fertilizer
When you plant
Every 2 to 3 weeks after plants established
(by volume)
Don’t over-fertilize
4 parts cottonseed meal
What to Use
1 part dolomite lime
Organic or Non-Organic
½ part bone meal
Liquid or Dry
General or Plant Specific
½ part kelp meal
Sunlight
Can increase effective sunlight
Move containers around to maximize/minimize sun
Be aware of building shadow
Know sunlight and shade patterns before you plant
Pollination
If natural pollination doesn’t happen
Hand pollinate plants
Pollinate the plants in the early morning
Transfer the pollen using a small paint brush
Pests and Disease
Identify it & Then Manage it
Not all damage is from pests – see Lsit of Common Problems in Container
Gardens
Online resources
Ask the Master Gardeners of Northern Virginia
• Help Desk @ (703) 228-6411
• Plant Clinics at Farmers’ Markets in Arlington and City of Alexandria
Virginia Cooperative Extension Service Website www.ext.vt.edu,
Virginia Tech Insect Identification Laboratory at http://www.idlab.ento.vt.edu/
University of Maryland’s Home and Garden Information Center's Plant
Diagnostic Web Site at http://plantdiagnostics.umd.edu/index.cfm
Cornell University’s Vegetable MD Online
http://vegetablemdonline.ppath.cornell.edu
The following Virginia Cooperative Extension bulletins are of particular interest.
All are available online at www.ext.vt.edu
Selected Vegetable Diseases, by Allen Straw, Publication Number 426-363
Integrated Pest Management for Vegetable Gardens , Publication Number
426-708
2008 Pest Management Guide, available at
http://www.ext.vt.edu/pubs/pmg
10
Harvesting Guidelines for Vegetables
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Green or Wax Snap BeansBeans--Pick when the pods are full size. The newer varieties
can be delayed until the beans are full size as long as the pods are still tender.
They should break off easily with a "snap" when ready for harvesting. The seeds
should not cause the pods to bulge.
Pole and Half Runner BeansBeans--Harvest as snap beans when young and stringless or
shell beans when mature.
Lima BeansBeans--Pods should be green with swellings to show the beans inside. Open
a pod or two; beans should be plump but still green or gray-green (not white).
Pick often to prolong picking season.
Sweet CornCorn--Harvest while the husk is still dark green. Kernels should be full size
and yellow or white to the tip of the ear, but still in the soft, "milk stage" of
growth. Corn is sweetest just as the silk blackens. Remember that corn matures
very rapidly in hot weather and that it should be refrigerated immediately after
picking to prevent the sugar from turning to starch.
CucumbersCucumbers--Those of moderate size are best. Yellowing indicates old age. Don't
allow old cucumbers to remain on the vine because they will keep the vine from
bearing more cucumbers. Harvest while young and green when the seeds are
soft. To use cukes for sweet pickles, harvest when two to three inches long; for
dills, five to six inches; and for slicing, six to eight inches.
MuskmelonsMuskmelons--They develop the best flavor when they ripen in warm, dry
weather. They may taste more like cucumbers if they mature in cool, rainy
weather. Pick them at "full slip" stage when the stem separates readily from the
fruit. Fully ripe melons are sweetest. As the melon ripens, the netting becomes
more prominent and the background color changes from a light green to a tan or
yellow cast. After harvesting, the fruit can be held at room temperature for one
to three days until the blossom end softens.
Okra or GumboGumbo--The best quality is when the pods are two to three inches long.
They may have to be harvested daily to get the quality size. Pick within a few
days after the flower petals have fallen whether pods are to be used or not. If
pods are allowed to ripen, the plant ceases to produce.
Eggplant-when the fruits are large and shiny and an even deep purple
Eggplant--Harvest
-color. Keep mature fruits picked off and plants will produce over a long period
of time. Fruit in which the seeds have turned brown are of poor quality and past
the edible stage. To tell if the fruit is mature, press the side of the fruit slightly. If
the indentation remains, it is mature.
PotatoesPotatoes--Dig them whenever tubers are large enough to eat. Dig only what will
be used immediately, because they keep better in the soil than in a warm house
or basement. Harvest when the tops have died down but before the first heavy
freeze. When digging, avoid skinning and injury. Avoid long exposure of
potatoes to light.
TomatoesTomatoes--Harvest them when fully vine-ripened. Regardless of the state of
maturity, picked tomatoes should be put in the shade, not the sun. Light is not
necessary for immature tomatoes to ripen. Sun causes uneven ripening and
abnormal color formation. To obtain good color and flavor, hold partly ripened
fruit at 70 degrees F then place in the refrigerator. Pick some green tomatoes and
store in a cool (about 55 degrees F), moist, dark place before the first killing
frost. Ripen by putting them in a location that is 70 degrees F.
11
Harvesting Guidelines for Vegetables
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Cabbage-anytime after a firm head develops. If some plants can't be
Cabbage--Harvest
-harvested after they reach full maturity, bend them to the ground on one side
and break part of the roots to reduce the possibility of head splitting from excess
water intake. If heads have not split, they can be stored for long periods at
temperatures of 32 to 45 degrees F.
Broccoli-while clustered flower heads are firm and green. Take heads with
Broccoli--Cut
-leaves and 5 or 6 inches of stem (also edible). Don't damage short side branches;
they will produce smaller heads if left to grow.
Brussels sproutssprouts--Twist or snap off sprouts when they are firm and still deep
green (usually about the time lowest big leaves start to yellow). Harvest lowest
sprouts first. Upper ones will continue to enlarge to harvesting size. The flavor of
Brussels sprouts improves after exposure to frosts.
CauliflowerCauliflower--As soon as blossom heads (farmers call them curds) begin to form,
pull the upper outer leaves over them to shade from the sun. This blanching
process gives a white curd. Inspect from time to time and cut off curd when the
flower sections begin to separate.
KaleKale--Cut off outer leaves from plants as needed. In thinning, pull smaller plants
and use (but don't eat roots).
New Zealand SpinachSpinach--Pinch off or cut with a sharp knife 2 to 3 inch lengths of
tender stem tips with leaves. New shoots will grow to replace them.
Turnips and rutabagasrutabagas--Pull young plants with tiny roots to thin rows and give
growing room to the remaining plants. Eat thinnings, tops and all. At 2-inch
diameters, roots are tastiest, and tops are still good as greens. At 3 inches and
above, roots are still good and store a little better. Late planted rutabagas can
stay in the ground until needed.
If your harvest is bountiful
consider sharing some of
your vegetables with the
Arlington Food Assistance
Program. Find them at
http://www.afacinfo.org.
12
Common Problems
Symptoms
Possible Causes
Plant tall, spindly or
unproductive
Insufficient light
or excessive
nitrogen
Plants yellowing
from the bottom,
poor coloring, lack
vigor
Excessive water
or low fertility
Plants wilt although
sufficient water
present
Drainage or
aeration
problems
Marginal burning or
firing of the leaves
High Salts
Plants stunted in
growth, sickly,
purplish color
Low
temperature or
phosphate
Holes in leaves,
leaves distorted in
shape
Insects
Plants leaves with
spots, dead dried
areas or powdery
or rust areas
Plant diseases
Beneficial Insects & Mites
Many species of beneficial insects and mites
can be purchased. Beneficial insects are
target specific, and require gardener
knowledge of existing pests. Timing of
release is an important factor, and if
pests are not present, neighboring
gardens may benefit more than your
garden. In general, these insects have
specific requirements for long-term
survival, and may need to be released
anew each season.
For more information on beneficials refer to
Biological Control: A Guide to Natural
Enemies in North America. This guide
provides photographs and descriptions
of biological control (or biocontrol)
agents of insect, disease and weed pests
in North America. It is also a tutorial on
the concept and practice of biological
control and integrated pest management
(IPM) and is available at
http://www.nysaes.cornell.edu/ent/bioco
ntrol/
A partial list of beneficial insects is included
below.
Beneficial Insects and Mites
Assassin bug - Reduviidaye - The assassin bug feeds mainly on aphids, caterpillars, Colorado potato
beetles, Japanese beetles, leafhoppers, and Mexican bean beetles.
Damsel bug - Nabidae - The damsel bug feeds on aphids, leafhoppers, mites, and caterpillars
BigBig-eyed bug - Lygaeidae - Big-eyed bugs feed on aphids, caterpillar eggs and larvae, immature bugs,
leafhoppers, and spider mites.
Predacious stink bug - Pentatomidae - Predacious stink bugs feed on Colorado potato beetles and
various caterpillar larvae.
Syrphid fly larvae - Syrphidae - Fly larvae of this species feed on aphids and mealy bugs
Lady beetle - Hippodamia convergens - The lady beetle feeds mainly on aphids and other soft-bodied
insects, such as mealy bugs and spider mites
Green lacewing larvae - Chrysopa camea - Lacewing larvae, known as aphid lions, feed on insect eggs,
aphids, spider mites, thrips, leafhopper nymphs, and small caterpillar larvae. Adult lacewings are
not predacious.
Predatory mites - Phytoseiulus persimilus and several other species feed on many mite pests, including
the two-spotted spider mite.
Trichogramma wasp - Trichogrammatidae - This tiny wasp attacks eggs of more than 200 pest species,
including cutworms, corn borers, corn earworms, armyworms, codling moths, and cabbage
moths. Release time is critical for their effectiveness since they only attack pest eggs.
Encarsia wasp - Encyrtidae - The greenhouse whitefly is parasitized by this wasp in third and fourth
larval instars when Encarsia lay their eggs inside the whitefly scale.
13