101 Easy Garden Tips - Better Homes and Gardens
Transcription
101 Easy Garden Tips - Better Homes and Gardens
Chapter One: Cheap Plants Pick up plants for a song and add color and texture to your yard! 1 Start plants from seed. Annuals, such as zinnias or marigolds, are bright, beautiful and cheap, especially when you grow them yourself. For the cost of a seed pack (usually around $2), you can enjoy a garden filled with flowers. Easy-to-grow annuals from seed include celosia, cleome, portulaca and larkspur. Plant seeds directly in the ground. To save money on potting soil and seed flats, plant seeds in the 2 ground after the soil warms up and there’s no threat of frost in your area. Then just add plant markers to identify what will come up. (To learn how to make FREE plant markers, see tip 30.) 3 Divide perennials for FREE plants. It’s simple math. Take one overgrown perennial (say a daylily or a hosta) and divide it into 3 or 4 plants. Dividing perennials is good for the plant (some perennials need to be divided every couple of years), and it pays out in green dividends: FREE plants! Plant small. You can spend $500 for a large tree for your yard, but why pay so much when you can buy a bare-root seedling from a mail-order catalog for as little as $5? To get the quickest growth from your tiny tree, plant it, then water it once a week during the growing season to promote deep rooting. Mulch it in winter and fertilize in spring. It will be big before you know it. 4 5 Collect seeds and save. Annuals, perennials, fruits and vegetables all produce seeds you can harvest to plant the following year. To prepare seeds for storage, spread them on a cookie sheet or window screen. Let them dry in a warm area but not in direct sunlight. (If seeds become too hot, they may not germinate.) Once the seeds are dry, store them in an airtight container. 6 Grow natives. Plants that are native to your area—they were original to the region—are good bets for success. For example if you live in an area that used to be prairie, prairie natives, such as purple coneflower, will be successful in your garden. Plant failures waste money, so go with a sure thing. 7 Cover uP with vines. Annual vines are a gardener’s best friend—they grow fast and spread far. A packet of seeds allows you to plant flowering vines that garland fences, ornament walls or entwine trellises. Morning glory, moonflower and passionflower are all beautiful choices. 8 Use indoor plants outdoors. Fill your window boxes with houseplants. Instead of buying new plants, save money and let your ivy, philodendrons, palms and jade plants enjoy a summer in the sun. Place sun-loving houseplants in full sun gradually so they adjust to higher light levels. 9 Harvest cuttings to make new plants. Take cuttings of plants as they sprout in spring. With a sharp knife cut 3-inch tips off stems. Press each cut end into a growing flat of potting mix and sand. Keep moist. Transplant new plants into the garden when they have developed roots. 10 Buy after bloom. Perennials can be expensive, but garden centers usually cut their prices once the plants quit flowering. Snap up great deals on peonies and roses after blooms have faded. You’ll enjoy them for years to come, especially when you know you got them for such a great price. 11 Grow an oak tree. You can actually grow your own shade trees from seed. Pick up acorns. (Find them under oak trees in the fall.) Set the nuts on their sides in your garden and cover them lightly with soil. In spring plant young trees in sunny, open spots. Keep well watered and mulch around the plant bases to better identify the young trees. 12 Buy in bulk. If you’re planting a large area—for example under a tree—buy plants in flats rather than in 4- or 6-packs. The plants may be smaller, but they will catch up fast once they are in the ground. 13 Invest in perennials. Although they may cost more than annuals, perennials are good long-term investments because, with proper care and planting, they come back year after year. Reliable and easy-to-grow perennials include hostas (for shady spots) and coneflowers (for sunny spots). 14 save the reCeiPt. Many garden centers and nurseries offer a one-year guarantee on plant material, but you need to have a receipt. Tuck your plant receipts and planting tags into a garden journal or folder so you can get your money back if your tree, shrub or perennial dies. 15 Seed lawns instead of sodding. Weigh the advantages of sod versus grass seed. Sod provides an instant lawn but at a premium price compared with grass seed. Grass seed requires at least 6 months to become established, but it germinates and grows easily. It’s one of the best ways to save money. Chapter Two: Cheap Tools and Accessories 16 Employ “found” objects. Look for beauty in aged materials. An old watering can or worn bricks from a demolished building add instant charm to even the newest gardens. Visit garage sales (or start in your own basement) to salvage vintage kitchen or garden tools. A found-object beauty, such as a discarded kettle, can make an excellent and attractive potting partner for plants. 17 Use office overflow. Check your home office for unused metal wastebaskets and CD case organizers. These office mates make excellent planting containers because they’re porous and can be filled with sphagnum moss, soil and plants. 18 Plant a kitchen canister. Fresh herbs are flavorful, low-calorie additions to many dishes. Plant your favorites in old kitchen canisters. Drill a small drainage hole in the bottom of each. Make sure herb planters get plenty of sun. To learn how to start herbs from seeds, see tip 74. 19 Take a ladder to new heights. If you have an old wooden ladder that’s no longer trustworthy for ascents, put it in your garden to use as a plant stand. Or grow vines up the steps. 20 Tie up for less. Use plastic bags to make cheap plant supports and ties. Wrap bags loosely around the bases of floppy perennials to keep them upright. Cut bags into small strips to keep grapevines and roses tied up and in place. 21 Get a separate water meter. Check with your water company about having a separate meter installed for your garden. Metered water for outdoor use is often priced at a lower rate because there’s no sewer or reuse charge. 22 Pick on-the- cheaP PaVinG. Don’t pay for exotic paving materials when you can find abundant sources of local or natural materials. White pine needles turn a beautiful burnt umber color. And wood chips can be gotten for little money (or for free!) from treecutting services. 23 Protect seedlings with pots. Pull empty terracotta pots out of your potting shed and place them on top of tender vegetable seedlings to protect them from freezing overnight temperatures in the early spring and late fall. 24 Retool your old tools. Find new lives for old rusted hoes and garden forks as plant supports. A trio of long-handled tools can become a tripod for growing vines. Or use them as plant stakes for peas, peonies and delphiniums. 25 Prune for less. You can pay a lot for a high-quality pruner, but for small trimming chores, a $1 pair of kitchen shears will do the trick. And if you lose them or leave them out in the rain, it’s a small loss. 26 Turn a gate into a garden trellis. An old garden gate makes a beautiful trellis for climbing plants such as morning glory or clematis. Just hang it up on the side of your house or garage and plant climbing vines beneath. 27 Get edGy. Line garden beds with free materials. For example upturned bottles come in a range of shapes, sizes and colors and make attractive edging for garden beds. Use shorter bottles and you won’t have to dig very deep holes to bury them. 28 Create garden edging. Put cast-off metal grates to new use as decorative garden edging. Light up for less. Candles are an 29 inexpensive way to light garden parties. Fill a mason jar with sand, colorful stones or pea gravel and add a 25-cent votive candle for late-night sparkle. It’s the cheapest lighting around: A dozen jars and votives will run less than $10. 30 Make Plant Markers. Recycle plastic mini blind slats to make plant markers. Cut them into 8-inch strips, with a point at one end. (Note: Older mini blinds may contain lead; if you are concerned, substitute inexpensive wooden craft sticks.) Write the plant names using black permanent marker. 31 Create luminaria. Make rustic luminaria using an old coffee, vegetable or spice can. Use a hammer and nail (or a drill) to make holes for light. Then insert a candle. 32 Use no-cost seed flats. Seed flats—shallow trays—are traditional equipment used to start seeds. A no-cost seed flat can be fashioned from an egg carton. Or try a pizza box or Styrofoam carryout dish—anything that will hold enough soil to start seeds and that will allow you to poke drainage holes in the bottom of it. 33 34 Tack up a trellis. Make your own climbing plant support from discarded pieces of fencing. Attach a strip of fencing to your front porch to allow flowering vines to spread out and grow horizontally. steP in style. Make your own square garden steppers using pizza boxes as forms. Mix concrete and pour it into the box. Decorate the surface with stones, shells or sea glass. When the concrete has dried, peel off the cardboard and set the steppers into your garden. 35 saVe with a tiller tiMe-share. Gardening equipment can be pricey, so buy big-ticket items and share the cost with a neighbor. Tillers, chipper/shredders and riding lawn mowers all become less expensive when you split the cost. 36 Fashion a leaf mover. Never discard a worn-out shower curtain or vinyl tablecloth. Instead put it to good use in your garden. Here a shower curtain becomes a catch-all for fall leaf cleanup. When digging holes, vinyl tablecloths are handy for corralling the soil. 37 create your own cutworM collars. Protect young seedlings from night-crawling cutworms by surrounding them with a collar. Cut the bottom off a yogurt container. Push the container an inch or so into the ground around the seedling, leaving 2 to 3 inches above ground. You can remove the collar if you like when the plant grows more hardy. Chapter Three: Cheap Tips and Techniques 38 Buy quality digging tools. It may be hard to pass up a $7 shovel, but it pays to buy quality digging tools. Cheap shovels, spades and garden forks tend to break after vigorous use, especially when you’re digging in heavy clay or rocky soil. Although stainless steel tools are pricier (costing up to $80 or more), they are incredibly strong and durable and will never rust. 39 Buy shrubs that look good in all seasons. Get the most bang for your planting buck by selecting shrubs with four-season appeal—flowers in spring, colorful berries in summer, fall leaf color and interesting bark or plant shape in winter. Four-season shrubs include serviceberry, crab apple and viburnum. 40 turn on to solar lighting. Install solar lights in your garden or along walkways and you’ll never pay another cent in garden lighting costs. Solar lights should be placed in a sunny area to collect daylight energy to light up at night. 41 Choose bulbs that spread. Plant bulbs once in the fall and watch them gain ground each year. Bulbs that multiply (a process called naturalizing) include crocus (above), species tulips, daffodils and scilla. 42 Plant self-seeding annuals. Flowers that reseed themselves are good values—you get free plants and don’t have to spend time every year planting them. Be careful in the spring that you don’t accidentally pull them up when doing your first garden cleanup. Good self-seeding annuals include portulaca, cosmos (left) and cleome. 43 Choose long bloomers. Select flowers that bloom all growing season. Deadhead annuals (remove the faded flowers) to keep them blooming all summer. And plant longblooming perennials, such as ‘Johnson’s Blue’ geranium or ‘Moonbeam’ coreopsis, that flower from early summer to frost. 44 plant in the fall. A shrub that costs $25 in May often can be snapped up for $14.50 in October. Discounts of 50 or even 75 percent are common during end-ofseason sales. Plus, autumn is a great time to plant. 45 Cover more ground. You don’t need to plant a lot of ground covers if you choose varieties that really spread out. Fast-growing perennial ground covers include creeping Jenny and ivy (above), ajuga, vinca and pachysandra. Make It Yourself! 46 Slug killer one part ammonia to two parts water deadly. You can also spread diatomaceous earth, a powder made from ground-up algae, around plants as a barrier to crawling pests such as caterpillars, slugs, snails, thrips and earwigs. 47 Organic sprays and dusts Hot-to-the-taste or strong-smelling herbs, spices and other edibles repel pests. Experiment with mixes of garlic, parsnip roots, bell peppers, onions, cayenne pepper and pipe tobacco. 48 Aphid control Add a few drops of dish soap to a squirt bottle full of water and spray on leaves to kill aphids. 49 deer repell ent Use old soap bars as a deer deterrent. Save soap remnants from your bathroom or hotel soap from your travels and place them in a pouch made out of pantyhose or cheesecloth. Hang the pouch near trees, shrubs or other plants you want to protect. 50 Compost Feed your plants naturally and improve your soil with compost. For quickest results use a tumbling composter. Or if you’re patient, place your organic materials in a bin or even just a pile and let nature do the work. Mulch Share rental costs with a neighbor for a chipper/ shredder for an afternoon and turn your fallen tree limbs into garden mulch. cold frame A cold frame made from an old window extends the season on both ends—protecting plants during early spring or autumn cold snaps. 52 53 Grass killer Pour undiluted vinegar onto quick-spreading (and hard-to-weed) grass that grows between bricks on paths and patios. 51 Chapter Four: Save Time (Because Time is Money!) 54 Use weed cloth. Landscape fabric on top of your garden soil stops weeds from being a problem. Landscape fabric enables air, water and nutrients to reach the soil but keeps weed seeds in a dark, cool environment where they can’t germinate. Place the fabric on the ground, cut a hole where your plants are positioned or will be planted, then cover the fabric with a 2- to 4-inch layer of mulch or gravel. Never use plastic, as it prevents moisture and air from reaching your plants’ roots. 55 Grow organic. Start adding up savings in money and time when you grow without chemicals—no pricey pesticides, no timeconsuming fertilizer applications. Plus you’ll harvest safer food and be kinder to the environment. 56 Add A wAter timer. Water your garden on a timer and you won’t forget to turn off the tap. (It happens more often than you think!) You’ll water only for as long as you need to. 57Use less potting soil. If you use large containers, don’t fill them up entirely with expensive potting soil. Instead place crushed milk jugs in the bottom of the container, then layer the potting soil deep enough (usually 8 to 10 inches is enough) for plant root growth. 58 Water at the best time. Water in the cool morning hours to cut down on loss due to evaporation. Other ways to make watering more efficient? Mulch the soil to keep it cool and moist and use a soaker hose to deliver water directly to plant roots. 59 Choose droughttolerant plants. Some plants aren’t as thirsty as others. And watering less saves time and money. Plants that can take the heat include purple salvia, coneflower and sedums. 60 Leave your clippings. Use a mulching mower—another way to save time and money. You’ll have no bagging chores, and grass clippings work as free lawn fertilizer. When left on the ground they decompose and add nutrients and organic matter to the lawn. 61 Rotate plantings. Move plants around from year to year to make it harder for insect larvae to take over. Insect pests tend to feed on a plant and then lay their eggs in the soil below. When you plant the same thing in the same spot every year, the emerging larvae have a convenient food supply. Moving a plant even 10 feet helps. Ideally you shouldn’t put annuals or vegetables from the same family in the same location more than once every three to five years. 62 pAy Attention. Walk through your garden once a week to take note of potential problems before they start. Look for insect infestations, plants that are struggling due to lack of water, etc. Fast action for garden trouble spots means saving plants before they are too far gone. 63 Don’t waste fertilizer. Read the directions and only use the amount you need—it will last longer and cost less. Plus it’s better for the environment not to overfertilize. 64 Employ flower power. Planting flowers, such as marigolds (right), discourages harmful nematodes in your garden soil. 65 buy tHe biG bAG. Face it: You always need more potting soil than you think. Buy in bulk to save money and trips back to the nursery for more. One big bag usually costs less than several small bags, but check cost versus weight to make sure. If you buy too much, save it for next year or sell it to a neighbor. 66 Use the buddy system. Some pairs of plants just seem to grow well together, often because one helps repel pests from the other. This concept, used by gardeners for centuries, is called companion planting. For example planting onions or sage near carrots helps repel flies that can infest the carrots. Similarly radishes planted among cucumbers help ward off cucumber beetles. Cleanse the soil. Solarization is the process of 67 using heat to disinfect soil. If you have a large planting bed or area of lawn you want to reseed, till the area to clear all vegetation. Then water the area until it is saturated. Wait 24 hours, then cover with clear 3- to 6-mil plastic sheeting. Bury the edges of the sheeting to seal it. Let the soil cook for 4 to 6 weeks. Then remove the plastic. If any weeds appear, till them lightly without disturbing the soil. Wait a few days for the soil to cool. Then start planting. This method helps get rid of many soil-borne diseases as well. 68 Mow less (and smarter). Save gas money and your own time by learning to live with a lawn that’s a bit longer than you may be accustomed to. You’ll also discourage weed germination when you avoid scalping it with your mower. Buzzing the lawn not only kills the grass in that spot, it allows light to reach the weed seeds and gives them the opportunity to sprout. Raising your mower blade also helps promote extra root growth in your lawn, making it harder for weeds to get established. Cheap Weeding Strategies 69 Pass the salt. Try sweeping rock salt into crevices between paths. Although harsher, borax also works well. Be sure to wear rubber gloves with the latter material. You might need to apply a few doses. And be aware of any surrounding plants because both products kill the good along with the bad. 70 boil tHem. If you have pesky weeds in a spot with no nearby grass or valuable plants, pour boiling water over the unsuspecting weeds. To control the stream of boiling water and save surrounding plants—and your toes—from a scalding, use a teakettle. Quick fix! If weeds are starting to grow but you don’t have the time or energy to pull them up at 71 the moment, suffocate them by covering them with a block of wood or piece of plastic. Better yet, use a few large decorative stones, a piece of garden art or a birdbath. You’ll stop the weeds from spreading so you can tackle them when you have more time. 72 Nip off seed heads. Don’t let your weeds replant themselves. By identifying the sprouting menaces in your yard, you can control their reseeding habits better. Annual weeds complete their growing cycles from seed to plant in a few months, then die. Unfortunately they leave behind thousands of babies if they go to seed, so always remove annual weeds before they drop seeds. Perennial weeds usually live for at least 3 years and are more difficult to banish, so remove them immediately as soon as you see them. Water your weeds. It may seem unwise, 73 but by moistening the soil you’ll make it easier and more efficient to pull weeds. You are also more likely to get the whole root system, and your yanking won’t disturb surrounding plants as much. No rain? Turn on the sprinkler for a few hours or even water individual weeds, then pull away. Chapter Five: Grow Pricey Produce 74 Grow Your Own Herbs Step 1. Fill individual pots or a flat of six-packs with moistened commercial seed-starting mix. Step 2. Sprinkle seeds lightly on soil, following directions on the seed packet. Sow 1 or 2 seeds in each cell or pocket of a six-pack. Note: Sow borage, chervil, coriander, dill and fennel directly in warm garden soil because they don’t transplant well from pots. Step 3. Cover the seeds with about 1⁄8 inch of the mix. Press the mix down lightly and spritz the surface with water to moisten it and settle the seeds. Step 4. Keep the mix moist by covering the container with plastic wrap or a plastic bag; cover a six-pack or flat with a plastic dome. Remove the covering when seedlings emerge. Step 5. Place the container in a sunny, south-facing window. Keep the mix evenly moist by watering it from the bottom. Set the containers in a sink filled with 2 inches of water until beads of moisture appear on the soil surface. Step 6. When the seedlings reach 2 inches tall, transplant them into individual pots. Or thin those started in small pots to 1 seedling per pot by snipping off all but the strongest-looking seedling. 75 herBS yOU caN STarT frOm Seed: Basil—great for seasoning Italian food and making pesto Chamomile—make your own teas Chives—snip this cousin of the onion into soups, sauces and salads Cilantro—a must for fresh salsa Dill—perfect for fish dishes Sage—seasoning for great stuffing Thyme—adds fresh taste to chicken and pork dishes BONUS TIP: dry Or freeze herBS To dry fresh herbs, hang them upside down in bunches by the stems in a dry, warm spot out of direct sunlight. Be sure air circulates freely around the bunches. Let the herbs dry until the leaves are brittle, usually a few days to a week, depending on the thickness of the leaves. Then pick off the leaves and discard the stems. Store the dried leaves in tightly covered containers. To freeze fresh herbs, remove the leaves from the stems. Place leaves in plastic freezer containers or bags. Expect frozen herbs to discolor some. When you’re ready to use them just add the frozen herbs to the food you are cooking. 76 Unusual lettuce greens Grow expensive greens such as arugula, buttercrunch and salad mixes. Lettuces are easy to grow and keep coming back after you cut them. Swiss chard This leafy green feeds you and your family all summer. It’s a great greens choice because it doesn’t bolt (try to set seed) in hot weather. 77 78 Heirloom tomatoes and potatoes “Designer” produce costs the most in the grocery store, so grow your own for big savings. Go for little varieties such as pear tomatoes and fingerling potatoes. 79 PIzza gardeN Many pizza ingredients, such as tomatoes, sweet peppers, onions, basil, oregano, thyme and parsley, require similar growing conditions (good soil, regular watering and full sun). So you can plant them in the same patch of soil. Chapter Six: Get FREE (or Really Cheap!) Stuff 80 FREE plants • Visit plant swaps. • Contact friends/neighbors and ask for plant divisions. • Call local landscapers/garden centers and ask for damaged plants. • Harvest volunteer seedlings. • Post an ad on craigslist.com. • Save your seeds from last year and grow your own. • Check freecycle.org. 81 FREE seeds Many of the most interesting plant varieties can be yours for free. Check the Internet for seed exchanges, seed saver groups or seed societies for no-cost supplies. 82 free fertilizer Contact a local riding stable for rotted manure. Composted manure (mixed with wood shavings) can generally be had from stables and horse owners. 83 FREE mulch Pick up free mulch from your local municipality or tree service. Ground-up trees make excellent weedsmothering mulches. 84 FREE compost Check with your municipality for free compost (from collected grass clippings) or make it yourself with a composter. 85 FREE tools You can obtain equipment and tools for free (or cheaply) from a number of sources: Goodwill, craigslist.com and freecycle.org. 86 free advice Contact your local county extension agents (through your state university) and Master Gardener groups for free planting and plant care advice. 87 FREE water Collect water in a rain barrel. Water patio plants and window boxes with rainwater. 88 FREE furniture Revive cast-off furniture with outdoor paint. Pick up wooden chairs and small tables and create your own “matching set” by painting them all the same color. Recycle, Reuse and Save! 89 Carpet scraps Use old or surplus carpet to line paths in your vegetable garden. You’ll keep weeds at bay and give yourself clean footing even when the garden is wet. Small pieces of lightweight carpet are also useful for covering cold frames on chilly nights. Jelly or canning jars Be on the lookout 91 for attractive little glass containers to hold small bunches of cut flowers. 90 Pie tiNS Punch a drainage hole in the bottom of a pie tin and fill it with seed starting mix to start seedlings. Or insert a pie tin beneath a pot on a deck to protect the wood from moisture and stains. Chopsticks Whether new or used (and washed), use these little fellows when you start seeds in 92 pots. Add one or two sticks to each pot, then cover with a plastic bag to control moisture. The chopsticks will prevent the bag from collapsing onto the soil. Just be sure to keep your “greenhouse” away from high heat or direct sunlight. Soft drink cans Rinse well and place 93 in the bottom of large planters to take up space. They provide extra drainage capacity, and you’ll need less potting soil. 94 Yogurt 95 CoFFEE CaNS Well-rusted coffee cans make a set of attractive rustic plant containers. You can also use a coffee can as a vessel to start seeds or grow seedlings. co NtaiNerS Use a nail to poke a few holes in the bottom of yogurt containers for free flowerpots. Make sure they’re at least 3 inches deep. Newspapers They’re key for “no-till” 96 garden beds. To create a new planting area without the work of digging, mow the area as short as possible, spread with 6 or more layers of newspapers and top with enough compost, soil or mulch to hold the papers in place. Over a few months the newspapers will smother weeds and grasses, then decay into the bare soil. The result is a pristine planting bed ready for trees, shrubs or flowers. 5 Uses for Plastic Milk Jugs 100 Soil ScooP Make a handy scoop from a halfgallon plastic milk jug. Make two horizontal cuts on the sides adjacent to the handle, and two forward-slanting diagonal cuts in the other sides. It’s great for distributing fertilizer granules or for scooping potting soil. Seed flats To make free seed flats, 97 cut off the bottom 3 inches of a gallon milk jug and punch a few drainage holes with a nail. Fill with potting mix and use a pencil to create 2 or 3 shallow furrows for sowing. Then plant your seeds according to the packet directions. 98 Liquid fertilizer distribution system Use clean plastic milk jugs to mix up liquid fertilizer, then punch a hole or two in the cap with a nail. Use your “system” to deliver a dose of plant food to even the smallest pots or plants. 99 101 Mini greenhouse In northern zones young transplants and seedlings are easy prey for spring and fall frosts. Protect them with their own personal greenhouse. Cut the top off a gallon milk jug and, when a cold snap is in the forecast, place the jug over the plant. Just be sure to remove the cover on warm sunny days to prevent your greenhouse from turning into a sauna. Protection plus If you use a cold frame to extend your growing season, line the inside with plastic milk jugs filled with water. The water will be warmed by the sun and will help reduce temperature swings inside the cold frame. The result: a reduced chance of both frost damage at night and of overheating during the day. BONUS! EVEN MORE GREAT TIPS! • EVEN MORE GREAT TIPS! Chapter Seven: Make $$$ From Your Garden 102 Sell vegetables. Make up vegetable collections and offer recipes on how to prepare them. For example grow 3 different colors of squash and offer a “Colorful Squash Stir-Fry” recipe. Sell rhubarb, radishes, carrots and lettuces in spring; sweet corn, tomatoes and potatoes in summer; and squash and eggplant in late summer. 103 Cash in on fruit. Create a pick-your- own plot in the backyard. Plant a strawberry patch for late spring harvests, raspberries for summer desserts and apples for autumn pies. 104 Make flower bouquets. From tiny nosegays to big sprays of lilacs, pick what’s blooming in your yard and create custom bouquets. 105 Grow your own potpourri. Everyone loves the fresh scent of herbs such as mint, lavender, rosemary. Sell scented mixtures in ribbon-wrapped muslin bags or jars. 106 Grow seasonal décor. Pumpkins and gourds are easy to grow and fun to harvest—and they’re hot sellers in the autumn. 107 Market herbs. Herbs are expensive in the grocery store but oh-so-easy to grow at home. Sell bundles of fresh sage, basil and dill. If you have enough you may be able to wholesale to local food co-ops, small grocery stores or restaurants. EVEN MORE GREAT TIPS! • EVEN MORE GREAT TIPS! How to Sell Your Garden Goods No matter the size or style of your garden, you can make extra cash by selling your surplus produce. If you get really good at it, you may want to set up a farmers’ market booth every season. 1. First find customers. Sell your extra produce. As you attract customers, plan your planting accordingly for subsequent years. 2. Make your stand attractive. With tables measuring 4x12 feet you get 48 square feet of display space. You can add an additional 10 to 12 square feet of display space on a truck or station wagon tailgate. 3. Sell only top-quality produce. It’s the best marketing strategy to make and keep customers. 4. Find your niche. Try growing specialty or high-value crops, such as 2-foot-long Chinese cucumber, instead of pickling cucumbers, specialty lettuces, or “exotics” such as jicama, Belgian endive, bok choy or casaba melons. 5. Go organic. Many people who come to farmers’ markets are looking specifically for local organic produce. Label your produce “organic.” 6. Create recipes, cooking tips and tasting samples of your produce. People will be more likely to buy your beautiful produce if you give them suggestions (and tastes!) of delicious things made with it. 7. Invite guests to your garden. Hold a cookout when your garden is at its peak and invite the public. Conduct a tour for schoolchildren and give them a garden-fresh goody to take home, with your name and phone number on an attached tag. (Once your produce makes it home, Mom and Dad might become new customers.) 8. Sell the season. Let your customers know what produce to look forward to as the season progresses. Tempt them with descriptions of upcoming early-, middle- and late-season varieties and crops to keep them coming back. 108 Rent garden space to beekeepers. If you have a big yard you may be able to rent an area to beekeepers. And if you’re a honey lover you may be able to barter space for honey. 109 start a coMMunity Garden in your backyard. Offer to till up an area for your neighbors to plant. They can pay you rent in cash or produce. 110 Rent out high-priced tools. Buy a tiller or other big-ticket equipment to rent out. 111 Sell plants. Divided perennials and selfseeded annuals can be potted up and sold at garage sales, neighborhood plant sales or through free online sales sites.