Ultra Van Tech Tips Electronic Reference 1966-1990

Transcription

Ultra Van Tech Tips
Electronic Reference
1966-1990
Ultra Van Tech Tips Electronic Reference
Introduction
Welcome to the Ultra Van Tech Tips Electronic Reference!
This Ultra Van electronic reference guide contains over twenty-five years of tech tips devoted to
one of the most unique Corvair-derived vehicles. This “E-Ref Guide” document can be viewed on
Windows, Macintosh, and Unix computers using Acrobat® Reader software (version 3.0 or
higher) from Adobe Systems Incorporated. This E-Ref Guide allows you to easily find a specific
article or to just browse a certain technical category. And a hardcopy of any page can be easily
obtained by printing out the pertinent page(s) using your computer’s PRINT command and a
printer (300 dots per inch or better).
One main feature of this Ultra Van E-Ref Guide is its ability to jump between pages via links.
These links are denoted by underlined text, and clicking on this text will automatically jump you
to that page. The advantage of using links to find the information you’re seeking will quickly
become evident after a little use. More information on using the E-Ref Guide’s features is given in
the “How to Use This E-Ref Guide” section.
Those of you familiar with the original Ryerson Ultra Van Manual will find that each of the headings in the Table Of Contents corresponds to the twenty-two sections of the original manual.
The main page in this E-Ref Guide is the Table of Contents. From there you can jump to any section.
Let’s begin! Please click on the topics below with your mouse:
Foreword by Norm Helmkay
History of the Ultra Van
How To Use This E-Ref Guide
Legal Stuff
Table Of Contents
This document is Version 1.1
Introduction
2
Foreword by Norm Helmkay
This electronic version of Ultra Van Tech Tips had its beginnings in 1989 when Jim Craig suggested it would be a great idea to re-publish all previous Ultra Van tech-tips as a way for new Ultra
Van owners to benefit from the technical expertise of other Ultra Vanners who submitted tips in
newsletters from 1966.
At the 1989 Ultra Van Rally in Riudoso, NM an official archive was established to collect, catalog
and store any information relative to the Ultra Van. Over the next few years, nearly all previous
Ultra Van Club and Group Ultra Chapter of CORSA newsletters were collected and the tips
entered into a computer database.
In September, 1991, a proposed reprint of the tech-tips was funded, and by February 1992, a 200
plus page reprint was ready.
As always, a few folk were major contributors, supplying newsletters and/or contributing to the
success of the tech-tip reprint.
An alphabetic honor roll of the major contributors reads: Jay Boes, Gus & Niva Brining, Jim &
Marlene Craig, Pat & Marge Fitzgerald, Maybel & Louis Griggs, the Hulls, Bob & Bertie Joy,
Hans Kraepelien, Earl McCrary, Edna & Ernie Newhouse, Mickie & Don Richards and certainly
the Ryersons, Len & Edy to whom we are all indebted for the Ultra Van Manual, the Ultra Vanners
“Bible.”
Since the hardcopy release in February 1992, work has continued to computerize the tech-tips
published between 1991 and 1995 which in volume are nearly equal to the number published
from 1966 to 1990.
Many times in the past few years, Ultra Vanners have asked if the tech tips were available on diskette or on-line. Recently some experimental work has been done by CORSA member Cris
Estanislao and others to make CORSA technical information available through the internet or by a
computer readable Compact Disc. Piggy-backing on this effort, we have been able to make the
first 25 years of Ultra Van Tech Tips part of this effort. Hopefully, if the concept is successful, in
the next release, we hope to include the 1991 to 1995 tips and others in the future.
Norm Helmkay
Ultra #356, 408, 486 & 547
March 2, 1997
Table Of Contents
Foreword
3
The following was published in the Old Autos Newspaper (Dec 1990):
Ultra Vans....The World’s Largest Production Corvairs & Corvettes
by Norm Helmkay
What do you do when you have both a trailer and boat to tow? That’s the dilemma Dave Peterson
faced every time he wanted to take both his Sparton trailer and boat out at the same time.
Back in the 1950s, Dave Peterson an aircraft designer, dreamed if he could motorize his Sparton
trailer, he could tow his boat with it. The idea was simple, a light flat engine in the rear, with no
hump in the floor at the front (although he has admitted had the Oldsmobile Toronado front-wheel
drive package been available the existing Ultra Van design may never have happened), unobstructed forward view and two double front seats, well insulated so it could be used in winter. A
true Class “A” rig with over six feet of headroom.
Existing “boxer” type engines (like the Volkswagen) were either too small, too expensive (Porsche) or had too little torque at low rpm.
What he needed was the right engine and drive train to couple the whole idea together, so in 1959
when General Motors announced the Corvair, Peterson found the right combination. From a shop
he rented in Alemeda in the fall of 1959, it took just four months to produce the first Ultra Van.
His colleagues liked the design so well they asked if he could build more. In all, 23 of the early
Ultras (known as the 100 and 200 series) were built. During the summer of 1991, the prototype
was discovered and is now mobile in California.
Next, someone at the Prestolite Corporation saw the Ultra as a light-weight box, 22 feet long, 8
feet wide and high which would make an ideal travelling showroom weighing only 3,420 pounds
dry. They were licensed in 1963 and built a total of 8 units.
In 1964, John Tillotson, a Kansas publisher noticed the neat Ultra Van package and being very
disappointed in his existing motorhome, made enquiries about getting a license to built this
unique vehicle.
There was an abandoned World War II Navel Air base near Hutchison, Kansas with hangers that
were ideal for building motorhomes. Also in the area were skilled aircraft workers. Soon, a license
deal was struck and the Ultra Corporation came together. Peterson as a consultant maintained the
right to approve any overall design changes, a fact that became significant later. The 300 series of
Ultras began rolling off the assembly line at 8 per month. In 1966, the base price was $8,950 with
a unique rebate of $250 if you would demonstrate to prospective buyers in your area. Ultra would
give your name to prospects and if they bought, you got another $250 back.
Built in true aircraft fashion, the monocoque constructed Ultra Van has no chassis. Cast aluminum
“A” frames are hung on brackets in huge aluminum front wheel-wells that are also the seat plat-
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forms. Unique front-end geometry allows the wheels to turn at a 50 degree angle providing a
shorter turning circle than most pick-up trucks.
The original 95 hp Corvair motor, PowerGlide and transaxle package were tucked under an enormous rear bed measuring over seven and a half feet square. Forward of the bed is a toilet/shower
on one side and a clothes closet on the other. Overhead, all around the rear are light-weight overhead cabinets neatly fitted to the curved hull.
At the front, a full galley with sink, refrigerator, three burner stove and oven. Again, overhead cabinets are sculpted to the cabin much like the cabin bins in airliners.
The fuel and water tanks are a real stroke of genius. Aluminum tanks run from one side of the
coach to the other, in such a way they become integral parts which strengthen the whole structure.
Another innovation are the water tanks. The fresh water tank has a demand pressure pump that
turns on when a faucet is opened. Sink and shower drains go to a “gray water” tank. Water to flush
the toilet comes from the “gray” tank and goes to a “black water” holding tank. Only this tank
need be dumped from time to time.
The outside of the tanks and the inside of the hull are sprayed with thick insulating foam so very
little heat inside is needed to be able to use the Ultra all winter. Heat radiating from the cabin
keeps the tanks from freezing. On the road, the heat from the Corvair engine is more than adequate to keep the inside very cozy. When parked, a 13,000 BTU thermostat controlled propane
heater does the job.
Ultra Van production steadily increased just as the much bigger Dodge Travco and Winnebago
were hitting the road. Ultras were at first sold only through the factory and virtually all units were
made to the customer’s order. At last count there were over 80 options.
In 1966, a number of California Ultra Van owners under the direction of Ernie Newhouse (whom
some may remember from Newhouse Performance Products) organized the Ultra Motor Coach
Club for mutual fellowship and assistance. The factory supported the club organization and in fact
asked the club members to write the original owners manual.
Right from the start the club was family oriented. Owner loyalty is another strong characteristic of
the Ultra owner. By 1990, sixteen Ultra Club couples have celebrated their 50th wedding anniversary, many of whom owned their coach from new. At a spring rally near Dayton, Ohio, the oldest
couple who drove their Ultra was 84 years young and at least three other couples were in their
mid-70’s.
By 1968 the cost of making this unique vehicle had spiraled and it was known that Corvair production was near the end, so orders dropped as the price approached $10,000 stripped. The price
was too high when compared to competing motorhomes designs selling for $8,000.
In late 1968 a modified design was introduced with a larger toilet, simpler tank system, 110 hp
engine and heavier suspension. This new design began at number 412, so are called the 400
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series.Production continued through 1969 when the Corvair drive line had to be phased-out. In all,
Ultra built over 305 Corvair powered units.
Ultra engineers tested a number of alternatives, including the frontwheel drive Oldsmobile Toronado package in both the front and rear, but it was too heavy. This however led to a new frontwheel drive motorhome called the Tiara. The Ultra made about 40 Tiaras.
In 1969, the “Corvette” Ultra Van emerged with a reverse facing Chevy small block water-cooled
engine in the rear, coupled to a 2 speed aluminum case PowerGlide. The transmission outputs to a
marine “V” drive which inputs to a Corvette rear-axle providing independent rear suspension similar as to that used on the original Corvair Ultra.
The weight of this new design added a 1,000 pounds, but the increase in horsepower gave sparkling performance for a 22 foot motorhome as compared to the 110 hp Corvair. It could cruise at
70 m.p.h. and still provide a respectable 12 to 15 miles per gallon. On the downside the cost had
now climbed to nearly $14,000 with options.
Starting at No. 510, Ultra made 47 of the V8 versions called the 500 series. One of the first V8s
went to an early Ultra owner whose rig had burned-up. When the order was placed they thought it
would be Corvair powered, but they reluctantly took the V8 delivery.
In a market where the Winnebago was now selling for only $11,000, the end was inevitable, and
in June 1970 production ceased.
Peterson regained control of his design in 1970 and organized a new company on the west coast to
build a slightly longer 23 foot version called the 600 series. A Oldsmobile V8 engine was offset on
the left side which allowed a full walk through bedroom at the rear. The engine cover was a cleverly designed chair. Weighing in at about 6,500 pounds dry, only five of the 600 series were built.
Also, in the early 1970s FMC, a manufacturer of (for the time) quite large rear engine motorhomes also took out an Ultra license, but no FMC “Ultra” units were made.
Finally, in 1973, when the energy crisis hit North America, it ended all attempts to revive the
marque. A much smaller one-off 700 series was begun but has never been completed.
The Ultra Van Motor Coach Club and CORSA Group Ultra has grown through the years and now
has a membership of over 180 who own perhaps 250 of the original 373, an unusually high number considering the newest Ultra Van is 20 years old. Many members have two, several have three
and one Florida member has four Ultra Vans.
The club has East and West sections. Regular sectional rallies are held throughout the year and the
annual national rally is alternately sponsored in the fall before Columbus day by the two groups
somewhere in south-central USA.
At the rallies, technical sessions plus “show-and-tell” walkarounds keep both new and old members up-to-speed on maintenance and any modifications. The club bulletin is also a source of
6
“Whale Tips” on “how-to-do-its”. Referring to an Ultra a whale is an “in” joke which began when
truckers were heard talking on their CB radios about these funny little “white whales on wheels”.
The club has critical parts program to assist owners in finding unique parts to keep their rigs rolling.
Interior changes and drive train modifications are quite common, but the hull structure has seldom
been changed in the 20 odd years since production ended.
The Ultra Van is recognized as a unique Corvair marque by CORSA (the Corvair Society of
America) with a chapter called Group Ultra which has its own quarterly publication called
“Whales on Wheels”.
Corvette people have yet to realize how unique the existing V8 powered Ultras are, but recognition is just a matter of time.
Next spring, (1991) a movie starring Jamie Lee Curtis and Dan Akroyd called “My Girl” is to be
filmed in Florida. The Ultra Van will have a supporting roll as the nomad home of the female lead
character. Hopefully, as the public sees the Ultra Van in the picture, they will become more aware
of this truly unique collectable.
Ultra Vans have kept their value very well, considering their place in the used motorhome market
as an orphan.
Generally, a good unit in running condition without salt corrosion (salt and aluminum don’t mix)
will fetch $5,000 up. Real good Ultras with upgraded interior, rebuilt drive train, clear glass, new
tires and Imeron paint go up to $18,000. When one sees what new motorhomes sell for these days,
these prices are a bargain, especially for such an interesting part of North Americas motor history.
As the current owners (many who bought them new) age and CORSA members begin to look for
more roomy alternatives to Lakewoods or Greenbriers they are now using for family camping, the
competition for the few existing Ultra Vans will cause a continued value increase.
Every time we pass an old box-like motorhome or see one of the current monsters on the highway,
it is cause for a thank-you to the genius who invented our wonderful little Ultra motorhome.
“Thanks...Dave”.
Table Of Contents
7
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8
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Table Of Contents
9
Legal Stuff
Norm Helmkay & Ultra Van Motor Coach Club Incorporated
This collection of Ultra Van E-Ref Guide technical tips submitted by members of the Ultra Van
Motor Coach Club Inc., between 1960 and 1990 were all reviewed for technical content when first
published by the various technical editors of the time. In their judgement these tips were believed
to be both acceptable and workable.
Over time, new tips have updated a few and others are no longer applicable. 1992 comments have
been added to those which the current Technical Editor believes need comment. In no case is any
guarantee implied that any tip re-published here will work, nor is any liability assumed by the
Ultra Van Motor Coach Club Inc., its officers or the author of a particular tip for any problems
which are a result of trying to use a specific tip.
In addition, the same foregoing liability disclaimer also stands for the Corvair Society of America
(CORSA) and any of its chapters, officers and members. (Dated March 1, 1997)
These tips are protected under copyright by the Ultra Van Motor Coach Club Inc. Norm has graciously donated these tech tips for public use. You may contact Norm at <[email protected]>.
Cris Estanislao
These tech tips articles are compiled into this E-Ref Guide by Cris Estanislao under copyright
permission by the Ultra Van Motor Coach Club Inc. As more archived articles are “revived,” this
E-Ref Guide will be updated. The latest version of this Ultra Van E-Ref Guide will be posted for
public use (freeware) at Cris’ web site at <http://members.aol.com/crisest2/index.html>. You may
contact Cris at <[email protected]>.
Adobe Systems Incorporated
This Ultra Van E-Ref Guide electronic document is designed to be viewed using Acrobat® Reader
software (version 3.0 or higher) from Adobe Systems Incorporated. Please see the End User
License Agreement accompanying the Acrobat® Reader software for contract details concerning
proper use of Acrobat® Reader software. The End User License Agreement is an electronic document titled “LICENSE.PDF” and is in the same directory/folder as the Acrobat® Reader program.
Adobe and Acrobat are trademarks of Adobe Systems Incorporated.
Acrobat® Reader software is freely available at:
<http://www.adobe.com/prodindex/acrobat/readstep.html>.
Table Of Contents
Legal Stuff
10
Table Of Contents
Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Foreword by Norm Helmkay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
History of the Ultra Van . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
How To Use This E-Ref Guide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Legal Stuff . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
3
4
8
10
Body . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Body Equipment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Interior Finishing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Furnishings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Tanks. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Plumbing & Pumps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Propane System. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Fuel System. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Suspension & Drive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Steering & Alignment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Wheels, Tires, Brakes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Power Plants – General . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Power – Corvair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Power – V8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Electrical . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
A/C and Auxiliary Generator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Special Services . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Comfort & Housekeeping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Modifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Books & Literature . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Service & Parts Suppliers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
SAFETY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
12
34
54
62
76
87
104
109
111
150
157
188
203
293
297
331
333
355
372
416
418
443
Consolidated Ultra Van Resource Number List . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 491
Ultra Van Safety Inspection Checklist . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 500
Where to Submit Tech Tips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 505
Table Of Contents
11
Body
Color Match – GM paint exactly matches the exterior
Quick Body Repairs – aluminum sheets easily repair body damage
Cracks in the Fiberglass – simple fix for surface cracks
Silicon Sealer – many uses for this GE product
Gold Trim Tape Source – where to find this gold tape
Repainting Your Coach – what paint to use to give your UV that new appearance
Know Your Weights – is it worth it to top off on gasoline and water?
Rivets – Aircraft – everything you wanted to know about Ultra Van rivets
Painting Help – a simple tip to avoid clogged paint can rims
Sealer – Sheet Metal Joints and Seams – use this waterproof sealer before you paint
Aluminum Rivets – list of rivet types to use for repair
Aluminum Rivet Update – updated list of rivets to use for repair
Update – Aluminum Rivet – note these changes to tech tips referring to rivets
Fiberglass Repairs – Crazing and Flaking – step-by-step instructions for outer resin coat repair
Primer Paint for Aluminum – what to use before painting that topcoat
Styrofoam Bumper Coating – what to use to recover your bumpers
Insulating Flexible Roof Coating – what to use to seal your roof
Table Of Contents
Body
12
Color Match
Author: Ernie Newhouse #228
Tech Tip No. 66-01, 1966
Every Ultra Van owner should be proud of his vehicle and maintain good appearance. In case of
body scratches or other damage, you may need to touch up the exterior finish of your van. Go to
any store carrying “DUPLI-COLOR” spray enamels and ask for General Motors Acrylic #122.
This is an exact color match. It must be sprayed in very light coats. Allow a half hour to dry
between coats. Be sure to smooth and prepare the area with fine sandpaper first. Already used the
“wrong” white paint? Just spray #122 over it....Easy.
Body
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Body
13
Quick Body Repairs
Tech Tip No. 66-03, 1966
If your UV gets creased or the surface metal is damaged in some way, here is an easy repair
method. Light weight sheets of aluminum are available from most hardware stores. Cut a patch
with metal snips to fit over the damaged area. Hold in place over the spot and drill holes to poprivet the patch. Use care not to drill into a vital tube or any electric wire inside the wall. Using
sandpaper, smooth the edges and spray with “DUPLI-COLOR” GM #122
Body
Table Of Contents
Body
14
Cracks in the Fiberglass
Tech Tip No. 66-05, 1966
Temperature extremes from hot daytime sun and chilly nights will contribute to surface “craze” or
can develop into crack lines in the fiberglass body sections. These unsightly blemishes are very
easily filled with clear epoxy resin, a liquid material obtainable from auto parts stores. Often for
small jobs, a toothpaste size tube of epoxy resin and another of the hardening agent will be sufficient. Follow directions, mix properly, then fill the cracks, using a putty knife. Next day, smooth
the surface down with fine sandpaper under a small block of wood. Finish with DUPLI-COLOR
#122.
Body
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Body
15
Silicon Sealer
Tech Tip No. 69-07, 1969
G E makes a “Silicone Seal” guaranteed to last 10 years. Use it to fix gasoline and holding tanks,
bumpers, small holes, body seams, etc. Be sure surface is dry and well sandpapered. It comes in
tubes, under $2.
Body
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16
Gold Trim Tape Source
Author: Art Merrifield #476
Tech Tip No. 77-03, 1977
To replace the Gold colored tape on your coach, it is available from Sherwin Williams, 1130
South Bristol St. Santa Ana, CA 92704. $12.00 a 77 yard roll, plus tax and shipping. 3M Scotch
Polyester Film tape #380.
Body
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17
Repainting Your Coach
Tech Tip No. 77-04, 1977
To give your coach the original gloss and appearance, try Sherwin Williams Brand “Kem Transport Enamel” #SW-F1A-1932 in off white color. It is easy to apply with your own or a rented
sprayer. Be sure to mask all windows and chrome, etc. first. This enamel is used by truckers and is
very durable and weather resistant if properly applied.
Body
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18
Know Your Weights
Tech Tip No. 80-24, 1980
Some club members may not know the weight of a large part of their Ultra load. For example, the
weight of gasoline is about 6 pounds (+ or -) a gallon depending on grade, quality, time of year,
etc.
With 32 gallons in the tank (a full Ultra load) you are carrying over 190 pounds of fuel. By “filling” half full, you can cut nearly 100 pounds off the load and increase your mileage...right?
Now let’s look at the water load. Water is heavier than gasoline, nearly 8 pounds per gallon. If you
start the trip with a full load of 30 gal., you’re loading the tires an extra 240 lbs. Since good water
is available at almost any town gas station, why not “lighten- up”?
Now energy costs more, it makes good “cents” to reduce our total load in every way possible. We
can help our purse-strings while conserving vital resources at the same time. OK? WARNING:
With due regard, every situation is different and some suggestions may not always be suitable.
Neither the Club or I are responsible if you carry only half a tank of fuel and run out on some
lonely cotton-pickin road.
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19
Rivets – Aircraft
Author: Len Ryerson #513
Tech Tip No. 83-10, 1983
This data cancels and supersedes BULLETIN dated May 1983.
As used in Ultra Manufacturing, two types of rivets were used – semi-hard and soft as shown
below. Semi-hard rivets were used where aluminum to aluminum joints were made. Soft rivets
were used where aluminum to fiberglass joints were made. Harder rivets would tend to embed into
fiberglass when being driven and bucked. The following data is taken from the AIRCRAFT
MECHANICS HANDBOOK.
Type
Material
Identification
Use
A
alum. alloy #2
plain
parts fabricated from 2S & 3S alloy (soft)
AD
alum. alloy
#A17S
1 dimple in head
parts fabricated from 17S & 24S alloys
D
alum. alloy #17S
1 raised teat on head
parts fabricated from 17S & 24S alloys
DD
alum. alloy #24S 2 raised dashes on head parts fabricated from 24S alloy & as a substitute for types AD & D
NOTE: AD,D, and DD rivets are progressively harder, thus requiring higher air pressure for riveting and bucking.
Type A
Alloy #2
plain head
Type AD
Alloy A17S
1 dimple in head
Type D
Type DD
Alloy 17S
Alloy 24S
1 raised teat on head 2 raised dashes on head
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20
Measuring Rivets
AN Code
Type of Head
Material
AN430
round head
aluminum
AN425
78° countersunk head
alum. & alum. alloy
AN426
100° countersunk head
alum. alloy
AN456
brazier head
alum. alloy
AN442
flat head
alum. alloy
AN470
universal head
alum. alloy
length /16ths
diameter /32nds
length /16ths
diameter /32nds
NOTE: AN456 & AN470 are the same rivet.
Explanation of Rivet Heads
AN456 = brazier head
AN470 = universal head
(both are same rivet)
AN425 = 78° countersunk head
AN425 = 100° countersunk head
AN430 = round head
AN442 = flat head (not used
very often)
Meaning of Rivet Symbols (using example of AN430AD-3-4)
1. AN = Army-Navy specifications
2. 430 = round head rivet
3. AD = A17S alloy with dimple
4. -3 = diameter in 32nds
5. -4 = length in 16ths
Rivet Diameter
1. Size should be same as original or as close as possible
2. Size should never be less than 3/32 or not less than the thickness of the thickest sheet(s)
through which being driven
3. Maximum diameter not more than 3 times total thickness of sheet(s) to be riveted
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21
Rivet Spacing
1. in Ultra, most rivets are on 2” centers
2. Minimum distance from center of rivet to edge of sheet should be twice the rivet diameter
3. Countersunk rivets should have a distance of 2.5 (two and a half) times rivet diameter from
edge of sheet
4. Minimum spacing - rivet to rivet should be 3 (three) times rivet diameter
5. Maximum spacing - rivet to rivet should not be more than 12 (twelve) times rivet diameter
Rivet Length & Bucked Head
B
C
grip
A
1. B = amount extending beyond material
to form adequate head
2. total length = grip + B or
3. rivet length (C) = 1.5 (one & one-half) times
rivet diameter + total thickness of material
B
A = 1.5 (one & one-half) times rivet diameter
B = 0.5 (one-half) times rivet diameter
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22
Painting Help
Tech Tip No. 83-15, 1983
Whether you are about to paint your Ultra Van or your house, this tip might help....you can avoid
having paint cans rims clog up with paint if you punch a dozen holes in the bottom of the lidgroove with a nail. These holes will then drip the paint back into the can as it accumulates,
whether you are using a brush or pouring partial contents into a sprayer. The holes will not affect
the tightness of the seal when you replace the lid, nor will paint tend to spatter when you hammer
on the cover to save any remaining contents.
Body
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23
Sealer – Sheet Metal Joints and Seams
Author: Jim Craig #549
Tech Tip No. 85-01, 1985
Prior to painting, or just to seal a water leak area, use “3M, Heavy Dripchek Sealer, P/N 08531”
which comes in a 7” squeeze tube with a metal tip applicator. It can be painted over in 30 minutes
and dries semi-firm to a medium grey color. Adhesion on a clean surface is excellent and will last
for years exposed to the elements. Get it at major auto paint stores.
Body
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24
Aluminum Rivets
Tech Tip No. 85-16, 1985
Now you have all those metal working tools to repair or re-skin sections of your Ultra Coach,
you’ll need some various aluminum rivets to attach the new skins. Prior to ordering, review Tech
Tip 83-10 and become familiar with the various types of rivets.
The rivets marked below with an (*) are used the most. Nineteen-eighty-five prices are about $13
per lb. One lb minimum.
1) Type: Aluminum Alloy #2S (soft), universal head
Part Number
* MS20470A4-4
Size
Details
1/ ”
8
dia.
1/ ”
4
long
1/
8”
dia.
7/
long
* MS20470A5-4
5/ ”
32
dia.
1/
MS20470A5-16
5
MS20470A6-16
3/ ”
16
MS20470A4-7
/32” dia.
dia.
16”
4”
long
1” long
1” long
2) Type Aluminum Alloy #2S (soft) countersunk head (100¯)
Part Number
MS20426A4-4
Size
1/ ”
8
dia.
Details
1/ ”
4
long
Note: All rivets are available in 1/16” increments up to 1”.
The rivets noted above can be ordered from:
Abscoa Industries Sales Department
9111 Chesapeake Drive San Diego, CA 92123
619-277-5530
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25
Aluminum Rivet Update
Tech Tip No. 86-11, 1986
NOTE: For clarity and continuity, change the Tech Bulletin (Supplement) dated May 1, 1983,
Subject: Rivets - Aircraft
from: Manual Section: 01 Page 1-04
to: Manual Section: 01 Page 1-05
Reference:
(a) Tech Tip: 83-10, Aluminum Rivets by Ryerson
(b) Rivets Manual, dated April 1952, Chance Vought Aircraft, Page 3-1
(c) Aircraft Materials and Processes, by Titterton dated 1947
The supplement noted above and reference (a) may have given a suggestion that the Ultra Van was
assembled with Type A (#2S soft aluminum alloy) rivets, when actually that is not the case.
Editor Note: Mr. David Peterson indicated the only place that soft rivets were used was to joint
the fiberglass sections to the aluminum hull.
The design specification calls for Type AD or Designation AD as indicated in reference (b). These
rivets are made of the Aluminum Alloy A17S and are identified by a small dimple in the center of
the head. They were used in all structural areas except where the fiberglass panels attached to the
exterior skins and frame assemblies of the Ultra Van.
Type AD rivets are approximately three times the strength of Type A rivets. AD rivets are usually
a slight yellow in color where Type A are basic aluminum mill finish color. Also, Type A rivets
have no marking on the head. Do not confuse Type A with Type M, which is a Monel steel rivet
that is slightly dark grey in color, also with no marking on the head.
The strength properties (in pounds per square inch) of these two rivets from Reference (c) are as
follows:
Strength Mode
A17ST-4
2SO
Ultimate Tensile (UTS)
38,000
13,000
Yield
18,000
5,000
Shear
25,000
9,500
Bearing
60,000
unknown
Chemical composition of Type A, 2S is 99.0% aluminum.
It is confirmed this date, February 11, 1986, the supplier listed in Reference (a) no longer sells
them. A new supplier is shown below.
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26
Examples of rivets needed to do structural repairs on the Ultra Van are as follows:
1) Type A, Aluminum Alloy #2S (soft), Universal Head
Part Number
Size
Details
Min. Qty.
No. in 1 lb
Cost
MS20470A4-4
1/ ”
8
dia.
1/ ”
4
long
1 lb
1,800
$7.65
MS20470A4-7
1/ ”
8
dia.
7/ ”
16
long
1 lb
1,630
$7.95
MS20470A5-4
5/ ”
32
dia.
1/ ”
4
long
1 lb
1,100
$7.35
MS20470A5-16
5/ ”
32
dia.
1” long
1 lb
1,000
$7.95
MS20470A6-16
3/ ”
16
dia.
1” long
1 lb
900
$11.85
Min. Qty.
No. in 1 lb
Cost
1 lb
1,850
$10.95
Min. Qty.
No. in 1 lb
Cost
2) Type A, Aluminum Alloy #2S (soft) Countersunk Head (100¯)
Part Number
MS20426A4-4
Size
1/ ”
8
dia.
Details
1/ ”
4
long
3) Type AD, A17ST-4 Aluminum Alloy, Universal Head
Part Number
Size
Details
AN470AD4-4
1/ ”
8
dia.
1/ ”
4
long
1 lb
1,800
$10.95
AN470AD4-7
1/ ”
8
dia.
7/ ”
16
long
1 lb
1,630
$11.00
AN470AD5-4
5/ ”
32
dia.
1/ ”
4
long
1 lb
1,100
$12.00
AN470AD5-16
5/ ”
32
dia.
1” long
1 lb
1,000
$12.00
AN470AD6-16
3/ ”
16
dia.
1” long
1 lb
900
$12.00
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27
4) Type AD, A17ST-4 Aluminum Alloy, Countersunk Head (100¯)
Part Number
Size
Details
Min. Qty.
No. in 1 lb
Cost
1 lb
1,600
$10.50
AN426AD4-7
1/ ”
8
dia.
AN426AD5-16
5/ ”
32
dia.
1” long
1 lb
1,100
$11.00
AN426AD6-16
3/ ”
16
dia.
1” long
1 lb
900
$12.00
7/ ”
16
long
NOTE: So few of the countersunk type AD are used, it is recommended that only the long sizes
above be ordered, then cut them to length as required.
Refer to the referenced Tech Bulletin (instead see Tech Tip 83-10, “Rivets – Aircraft”), dated May
1, 1983 by Len Ryerson to become familiar with the different types of rivets. Also, See Tech Tip
83-14. Use rivets from 1 & 2 for non-structural repairs and from 3 & 4 for all structural stress
areas.
Rivet Supplier:
Sierra Pacific, 1801 West El Segundo
Compton, CA 90224
213-636-2431
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28
Update – Aluminum Rivet
Tech Tip No. 86-18, 1986
Reference: Tech-Tips 85-16 and 86-11
Add: “and technical bulletin, dated Nov. 13, 1983” after word “Page 1-5” in first line reference.
Delete: complete “note” at top of page of Tip 86-11.
Delete: First paragraph of Tip 86-11 starting with the words “The supplement noted.....”
Recommendation: Do not use Type DD, Alloy 24S Rivets noted in the Technical Bulletin, dated
Nov, 13/83 unless you have facilities for annealing and keeping them in a frozen state prior to use.
These are very hard rivets and usually will fracture if driven/bucked without being in an annealed
state. In the trade, they are commonly called “Ice-box Rivets”, a super strong rivet for high
stressed areas.
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29
Fiberglass Repairs – Crazing and Flaking
Tech Tip No. 87-19, 1987
The following info was provided by a local Corvette shop.
Repair of crazing/cracking of outer resin coat.
a. Sand down to first layer of cloth
b. Taper/feather out edges
c. Using a quality polyester resin, layer in fiberglass mat (not cloth) impregnated with resin,
to get back flush with surrounding surfaces. Smooth as much as possible. Dry 3-5 days.
Note: Do not apply resin in hot sunlight.
d. Sand and level out repair area
e. Apply quality Marine step 2 sanding resin, dry 2-4 days
f. Final sand and re-coat as necessary with step 2 resin
g. Apply a the primer required for use with the final paint sand with #600 wet/dry paper
h. Apply final finish of desired color using good brand of polyurethane enamel.
Note: Recommend, Ditzler’s Starthane enamel and DP-40/401 epoxy chromate primer. Follow
factory recommendations.
Body
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30
Primer Paint for Aluminum
Tech Tip No. 87-23, 1987
When a good primer is needed for those aluminum panel repairs use:
Ditzler #DPE-1538 Black Zinc Chromate Primer
This provides excellent adhesion over aluminum when panels are properly treated as directed.
(See label on container)
You need to use Ditzler DX533 Alumiprep and DX501 or DX503 Alodine. DPE-1538 does not
require a finish coat immediately although you can paint over it after 5 minutes with Acrylic or
Alkyd enamels.
The good part about this primer is it is non-porous, so you can prime a small area and not worry
about moisture getting to your new aluminum panel until you are ready to finish coat the whole
area, or coach in general.
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31
Styrofoam Bumper Coating
Author: Bill Binney #295
Tech Tip No. 88-01, 1988
The original bumpers did not last long unless covered with some covering to protect them from
the sun. If you need to recover yours and paint them to accent your present paint scheme, try the
following:
NAPA’s #765-1268 EPOXY RESIN for STYROFOAM.
The two part mix may also have #121 stamped on the box. Worked great for me.
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32
Insulating Flexible Roof Coating
Authors: Lester Bell #546, Jim Craig #549
Tech Tip No. 90-08, 1990
Some Ultra owners have coated their van roofs with various brands of insulating material and
most are happy with the results. The following new product will according to the manufacturers
specs exceed all other coatings in providing maximum insulating qualities and waterproofing. It is
called ASTEC #100 Ceramic Insulating Coating (flexible coating). It exceeds the requirements of
R-19 fiberglass and can be applied by roller.
It is available in various colors. Coverage is 100 sq.ft. per gallon. Available in 5 gallon containers
at $50. If you have a severe leaking roof, apply their ASTEC WPM #8 waterproof membrane prior
to coating with #100. For your nearest dealer, contact ICC,
Attention:
Mr. Mike King
954 S. Highway 41
Inverness, FL 32650
Phone 1-800-223-8494
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33
Body Equipment
Lining the Engine Hatch Covers – an outdated tip recommending asbestos as the liner material
Engine Fumes Inside the Coach – use foam tape to seal the engine covers
Extra Rear Window – tips for better rearward visibility
Vent Tip – how to have draft-free air flow during winter nights inside your Ultra Van
Save Your Bumpers – the best coating for your bumpers
Door Screen – how to make a hot-weather screen
Pull-Out Step – a permanent, slide-out step is easy to make
Bumpers – how to make quick repairs for your bumpers
Keyless Entry – how to bread into (your) Ultra Van without keys
Windshield Glass – what brands NOT to use when replacing your windshield
Foam Bumper Filler – what to use for repairing holes in your bumper
Windshields – Untinted – New – where to get original style uncut windshields
Bumpers – Foam – Original Type – where to get original foam bumpers
Windshield Wiper Arm Scratch Preventer – precautions to take when storing your Ultra Van
Door Lock & Handle Assembly – how to fix a broken handle spring
Hinge Assembly – Entrance Door – a source for replacement hinges
Door Hinge Re-Work – another source for replacement hinges
Windshields – several sources for new windshields
Entrance Door Latch – an easy fix for a broken door latch spring
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Body Equipment
34
Lining the Engine Hatch Covers
Tech Tip No. 66-04, 1966
To keep engine heat and noise out of the bedroom, cut asbestos sheet to the proper size to fit under
each door. Cover the asbestos with aluminum using 3/8” wood screws. Hardware stores have sheet
asbestos.
1992 Note: Please do not use asbestos. Since this tip was published, asbestos dust and fibers have
proven to cause lung problems. Fiberglass blanket insulation does a better job and is safer.
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35
Engine Fumes Inside the Coach
Tech Tip No. 66-07, 1966
If gas or exhaust fumes seep in from the engine area, there can only be one solution...seal the
hatch-doors more tightly around the edges. At any auto parts store get a small roll of 1/2” by 1/4”
self-adhesive foam tape. Wipe all oil and dust from the sealing surfaces of the covers...along both
the front and rear ends as well as down the center flange surface. Apply the foam tape.......no more
engine smell.
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36
Extra Rear Window
Author: Lee Heath #223
Tech Tip No. 68-01, 1968
When backing into tight spots, simply prop open the rear hatch, then the driver can easily look
back and see exactly where he is going. Installing an extra window and center mirror on the dash
up-front would permanently eliminate the small blind spot close-behind the UV.
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37
Vent Tip
Tech Tip No. 68-03, 1968
Winter nights are usually colder, but your Ultra Van still needs good ventilation for proper sleeping. Some fine “draft free” air can be obtained by opening the engine heat register fully and cracking the roof vents slightly. This gives the outlet near the floor a place for LP fumes to exit (safety
first) plus provides an even, but constant, upward flow of fresh air to keep the coach clean and free
of dampness, even if it is raining outside.
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38
Save Your Bumpers
Tech Tip No. 69-19, 1969
Those modern-as-tomorrow aircraft-ethefoam bumpers on your Ultra van can now be made to last
almost forever. Salty coast air and caustic winter-time street chemicals everywhere, have a tendency to pit the foam surface. After testing dozens of protective coatings on bumper material
which were left out in hot sun, rain, dirt and night-time dew for months. The only one that proved
completely compatible and remained pliant over that long period of testing was: SINCLAIR #250
Exterior Gloss White Enamel. Just brush it on – even new bumpers – two coats suggested. Sinclair
#250 White is made with a synthetic resin, doesn’t crack or chip, is flexible, stays put and should
last indefinitely.
Body Equipment
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39
Door Screen
Author: Horace Dowell #256
Tech Tip No. 70-05, 1970
In hot weather, we want to keep the door open for maximum ventilation but flies and mosquitoes
want to buzz-in. Get some fiberglass screen (72” by 36”) at the hardware store. Hem the top for a
spring loaded curtain rod (45”) with rubber tips on each end and hem the bottom for some drapery
weights. Presto, an instant screen which can easily be taken down or pushed aside for travel.
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40
Pull-Out Step
Tech Tip No. 71-01, 1971
The permanently mounted slide-out step eliminates all need of carrying or bothering with a stepstool, box or other entry assist.
Get six pieces of 1” by 1” by 1/8” angle iron 30” to 36” long. Drill and bolt (or weld) two pieces
together to form a channel and do the same again with two more pieces.
Drill and mount these crosswise of the van (about 26” apart) so the completed step will straddle
the gasoline tank under the coach.
Strengthen the ends of the channel nearest the door with an underpiece of 1” by 1/8” strap iron,
easily bent and shaped, then fastened to the vehicle.
Now use the last 2 angles as the step slide by bolting a 6” wood step about 25 1/2” long between
them at one end. Bolt a light-weight strap or a wood crossmember at the other end.
Slide this unit into the channels already mounted under the rig.
Install a stop so the step can be pulled out about 12” the right distance for proper use.
Chalmers Thompson (#281) has made a few “Detailed Drawings” of this very light-weight coach
improvement.
1992 Note: None of these drawings have turned up in any of the Ultra archive material to date, if
anyone has a set, please make them available to the archives.
Body Equipment
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41
Bumpers
Tech Tip No. 76-01, 1976
The foam bumpers are a problem to some, but here is a solution....fill the gouged-out places or
uneven areas with EXTERIOR “Spackle” available at most hardware and paint stores. Don’t use
regular Spackle. With a putty knife, spread the white material into the holes and then carefully
smooth it out. Now get a quart of Sinclair #250 or any other good brand of synthetic white enamel
and coat the entire bumper. A 2” bristle brush is best. Takes only a few minutes. Re-coat the
bumpers each six months to maintain a clean neat appearance.
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42
Keyless Entry
Author: Roma Smith #298
Tech Tip No. 78-01, 1978
Is there an Ultra Jock who doesn’t know this slick easy way of entering the coach without a key? I
locked my door key in the coach and hit on the idea... honest, nobody told me of putting a large
edge screwdriver or blunt tool against the upper frame of the kitchen window screen and hitting it
with my palm. The screen moved up enough to clear the bottom so I could take it out. I then just
reached in and opened the door.
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43
Windshield Glass
Tech Tip No. 80-05, 1980
When driving in North Dakota last fall, a truck threw some rocks at us. This resulted in a cracked
right windshield.
The “Carlite” brand, as well as “Libby Owens Ford” glass is now tempered on the outer laminate.
These brands cannot be cut without “runs”. As you may know, the GM Stepvan from’58 to’68
curved glass fits all Ultras.
Therefore...if you need a new windshield (right or left) and want it cut like the original installation, with a wide center-section, be sure the glass shop orders some brand other than the two mentioned above. After attempting to cut five new windshields for #603, they finally gave-up.
WHAT TO DO: Install the full uncut pieces (#W-575 Right and #W-576 Left), then cut a flat center section with rounded top and bottom to match the rounded ends of the uncut windshields
Leave 1/8” gaps which are filled with clear silicone. The metal tie strips are eliminated. This tip
may save another member a headache and the result looks fine.
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44
Foam Bumper Filler
Author: Wayne Howard #338
Tech Tip No. 81-16, 1981
A good product for fixing holes in the foam bumpers is called “Great Stuff” which is made be
Instant Foam of Joliet, Ill. When it dries it is like foam rubber and can be sanded and painted for
bumper repairs.
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45
Windshields – Untinted – New
Tech Tip No. 81-20, 1981
Original style uncut windshields are still available. Delivery arranged within 100 miles of San
Diego. Contact: Jim Craig 714-278-4779.
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46
Bumpers – Foam – Original Type
Author: Dave Peterson #601
Tech Tip No. 81-21, 1981
Twenty pairs of the original Ultra bumpers are available from Dave Peterson, 93 Vancleave Way,
Oakland, CA 94619.
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47
Windshield Wiper Arm Scratch Preventer
Author: Mory Snyder #489
Tech Tip No. 81-26, 1981
When storing your coach for the winter, take off the windshield wiper blades to prevent deterioration and put a piece of rubber tubing about an inch long over the wiper arm end to prevent the
windshield from being scratched should you accidentally forget to re-install the wipers.
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48
Door Lock & Handle Assembly
Tech Tip No. 82-16, 1982
It’s most annoying when the handle spring breaks. The original spring is almost impossible to find
and virtually impossible to install. Here is a “FIX” that works and lasts indefinitely. After taking
the assembly out of the door, STUDY how it works, then all the following will make sense. The
area in the diagram marked “A” and “C” is where the “FIX” is done.
PROCEDURE: Cut about 1/2” from a 5/16” steel bushing and grind or file the end to match the
contour of Post “A”. Weld or silver solder the bushing fairly low on the post. Drill through the
bushing and install a 1/8” by 3/4” pin (a piece of drill rod, etc.). Silver solder the pin in place. Drill
small holes at each end, to accept the end of small coil springs. Now drill two more holes near the
top end of Post “C”, make-up and install two small coil springs and hook into the holes as shown.
The job is finished, just re-install in the door. See the drawings below.
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49
Hinge Assembly – Entrance Door
Tech Tip No. 83-03, 1983
Reference: DWG 2-C
Piano Hinge - Aluminum, length 48 inches, width (open) 4.5” Thickness 0.063” Hinge Pin 1/8”
stainless steel. If worn or damaged, a source has been found.....in six foot lengths. These must be
bought in quantity to get a price break. A limited supply is on hand, but more can be ordered.
Contact: Len Ryerson 18618 Rayen Street Northridge, CA 91324
Present Price, FOB Los Angeles: $22.15 each (March 1983)
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50
Door Hinge Re-Work
Author: Louis Griggs #334
Tech Tip No. 86-03, 1986
Some of the earlier coaches had two small hinges concealed in sheet metal fairings. The hinges
were riveted to the fairings which was a weak point. After a while on our coach, one of the fairings gave out and one of them cracked badly. The door then groaned on opening and closing. The
bottom hinge gave evidence of imminent failure.
After looking at Airstream trailer hinges, I found the older ones used a cast aluminum hinge with
a stainless steel center part for a screen door. An Airstream dealer sold me a pair of used hinges
for $10.
This hinge has two 1/4” bolts cast into one side for attachment. I used two 1/4” stainless bolts for
the other side. The 1/8” thick stainless screen door hinges came with two 90° bends which must be
straightened out for Ultra use. These hinges make a good looking, solid job.
Body Equipment
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51
Windshields
Tech Tip No. 89-27, 1989
I’ve had a lot of calls asking for Ultra windshields. If your local glass shop can’t find them, have
them call the places listed below. NOTE: The windshields you will most likely get are made in
South America and they are fully tinted & shaded. It is recommended they not be cut, but fitted
with new center glass pane of flat glass cut to fit the rounded corners of the new windshield
glass(es).
Windshield part numbers are: W 575 R/H and W 576 L/H.
Gordon Harvey #517, 813-541-3433, call for price.
Lo-Can Glass Co., 1-800-345 or 396-9595, $385 + shipping.
Gator Glass, 3685 Investment Lane, #1, Riviera Beach FL 33404, 305-842-4997 (ask for Fred).
Francis Boydston #435, 505-821-1506, Francis has an agreement with a local Albuquerque, NM
shop to have them installed for you. (Call for current prices and availability.)
Peninsula Glass Co., 800-468-4323 US & Canada or 800-348-8804 in Washington State. Price
$468 + shipping.
Body Equipment
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52
Entrance Door Latch
Tech Tip No. 90-17, 1990
This little trick was seen at a recent Ultra rally. If your entrance door latch spring that holds the
handle in the closed position is broken, the handle protrudes out at a 45° angle. Here’s an easy fix.
Attach a magnet from a cabinet door to the inside area of the handle with a bit of epoxy or silicone. The steel housing for the handle assembly will hold it in the faired/flush position, just like
new.
Body Equipment
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53
Interior Finishing
Drape Snaps – keep those side window drapes out of your face
Extra Storage (under the floor boards) – make use of unused space under the inclined footrest area
Bookcase, Hinged Doors – access your shelves better using this tip
Main Entrance Door – Panel “Bulge” – fix melanite panel “bulge” or “bow”
Interior Paneling (Wilsonite) – where to get replacement paneling
Interior Panel & Cabinet Repair – a detailed procedure to repair loose melanite
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54
Drape Snaps
Tech Tip No. 68-04, 1968
Curtains can blow in your face with the side windows open. Go to the auto upholstery shop and
get large snap fasteners. Punch a hole at the center of the drapery hem 2” back from the front
edge....cinch in the female push button. Drill a small 3/32” hole in the wall near the bottom rear
corner of the sliding window and screw in the male snap with a Phillips head screw. Snap-Snap,
no curtain in the face.
Interior Finishing
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55
Extra Storage (under the floor boards)
Author: Jim True #440
Tech Tip No. 70-12, 1970
Every Ultra Coach has lots of unused space under the inclined footrest area up front. Fold back
the carpet, mark a 20” by 14” rectangle on the plywood (to the right of the accelerator) with the
top edge about 3” from the front wall. Drill holes at each corner and cut all four sides. The cut out
piece will be the cover. Make a box, preferably of aluminum to fit in the hole as deep as possible
(5” to 8”). Attach with a few screws. Cut a piece of carpet about an inch bigger than the opening
and cement it to the cover (the piece removed).
Interior Finishing
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56
Bookcase, Hinged Doors
Author: Walt Davison #452
Tech Tip No. 81-17, 1981
Installing hinged doors at the deep end of the bookcase makes access to the shelves much easier.
Interior Finishing
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57
Main Entrance Door – Panel “Bulge”
Tech Tip No. 82-18, 1982
The large lower inside Wilsonite panel has a tendency to “BOW” or “BULGE” as the finish on the
back side of the panel dries (or ages) and shrinks a little more than the front face (finish side) thus
causing the bulge. About 18” up from the bottom of the door frame there is a row of rivets on 2
inch centers to attach the outer door skin to a cross brace. The cross-brace has the edges of the
channel facing upward. The usual fix is to locate the brace and using decorative screws secure the
Wilsonite panel to the brace. A neater “FIX” (no screws to mar the panel) is to cut a piece
of aluminum strip 12 or 14 inches long by 2 inches wide and bend it with an offset like so:
The offset should be just enough so that when the strip is glued to the backside of the Wilsonite
panel and the panel is slipped down it will catch the lip of the channel. Use a good adhesive and
allow sufficient time for it to set. See the drawings below.
Interior Finishing
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Interior Paneling (Wilsonite)
Tech Tip No. 85-02, 1985
The Ultras were equipped with very good paneling made by Wilson Art Co., which is still available. The latest paneling in the brown shade is not exactly like as original, but so close few would
know the difference. The white shade is also available, although I did not have a sample to verify
how close it matches the original. The available brown shade is identified as follows: Color/pattern: Mellow Cherry (original gloss) Part No. C334T-1-107 (Note: -1 indicates glossy finish, -107
shows it to be 1/16” thick). Sizes Available: 4’ by 8’, 4’ by 10’, 4’ by 12’, 5’ by 10’, 5’ by 12’.
Cost: $1.05 per square foot (in 1985). Call 1-800-433-3119 (toll free) for dealer locations.
Address: Wilson Art Co., 600 General Bruce Drive, Temple TX 76501.
Interior Finishing
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Interior Panel & Cabinet Repair
Tech Tip No. 86-05, 1986
Wilson Art, Formica, etc., are all melanite plastic. Is the melanite coming loose in places? Reason
is that with age and interior heat (stored in sun and closed up for long periods) the contact cement
dries up and adhesion is lost. Repair is not a big job, but it takes much care.
Materials Needed:
Acetone, contact cement and thinner, fine sandpaper, wax paper, newspapers, and throw-away
rags.
Tools Needed:
Flat smooth work surface, scraper - for wood with hook type scraping head, wooden roller - similar to type used for wall papering, knife, thin table type - smooth, small “throw away after use”
cheap brushes.
Procedure:
If melanite is only partly loose, it must be taken off of the wood frame completely. Do this by
brushing in Acetone (between wood frame and panel) which will dissolve the old glue. Work
slowly so as not to crack panel as it is being pulled away from the wood.
Once removed, lay melanite and wood frame on a flat, smooth work surface with newspaper under
it to protect the surface from being scratched. Brush on Acetone wherever old contact cement is
present. After many applications of Acetone, the old cement softens and can be scraped off – it
sort of rolls-up as a ball on the scraper. Wipe this off with an Acetone saturated rag.
When ALL the old cement is off, scrub areas with Acetone soaked rag(s) until no more cement
particles are evident. Allow to dry for at least an hour, then sandpaper surfaces where new contact
cement will be applied for re-gluing.
Applying new contact cement is critical, so follow the can instructions carefully, especially noting
the drying time relative to temperature and humidity. On new wood, two coats of glue is recommended, but only use one coat on the melanite.
On older wood, which already has most of the pores sealed by soaked-in cement, usually one coat
is adequate, though two are desirable if the first is thinned. The test to determine if the glue is
ready to bond by touching firmly with finger pressure, if finger doesn’t stick or lift cement its
ready.
When applying new contact cement, its a good trick to try a small “test patch” somewhere that is
not a true joint area.
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Pre-plan EXACTLY how the melanite will be matched to the wood frame so all edges will be
right in position. Here is where the wax paper comes into use, as contact cement will not adhere to
wax paper. Cut wax paper larger than size of the parts being matched-up. Place wax paper
between the two glue-coated surfaces. Gently slide the melanite into exact position and slowly
pull one of the strips of wax paper (nearest an edge) out a little ways to allow one edge of the
wood and melanite to meet and stick.
Using the wood roller - roll the very edge for good adhesion, if all is still in good alignment. Continue to pull wax paper all the way out in strips, following-up with the roller to insure firm contact
at all places. Then go over the whole surface again using firm pressure with the wooden roller.
Note: Some like to put extra weight on newly glued assemblies but professionals advise it is not
necessary, providing use of the roller has been firm over all areas glued.
After twelve hours or more, clean up any edges where the contact cement has oozed out using an
Acetone damp rag - careful not to get any Acetone into the new joint.
Job is over and good for maybe another fifteen years or more.
1992 NOTE: BE CAUTIOUS WITH ACETONE, USE ONLY IN A WELL VENTILATED
AREA.....ALSO, ITS VERY VOLATILE AND FLAMMABLE!!!!
Interior Finishing
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Furnishings
Lighting the Furnace in a High Wind – solve blowouts with this simple device
Refrigerator Cooling Tips – keep your refrigerator running well with these tips
Winter Comfort – you won’t believe this tip on keeping warm
Hot Air Heater Tubes – a simple fix for deteriorated heater ducts
Coleman Heater Lighting Tip – easily light a Coleman heater using your Ultra Van
Water Heater Blow Out (maintenance) – how to quickly clean out soot from your water heater
Pilot Light Problem – start your pilots in your refrigerator, water heater, cabin heater, or oven
Instant Water Heater Parts Source – where to get parts for the Vaillant Geyser Instant Water Heater
Refrigerator Door Seal – easily check for leaks in the door seal
Toilet Repair Kit – part numbers for Saniware Model #1000 repair kits
Appliance Service & Parts – call this repair place if you need help with your appliances
Recirculating Toilets – recirculators are modern and save you water (weight)
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Lighting the Furnace in a High Wind
Tech Tip No. 66-06, 1966
To solve blowouts when lighting the pilot in a wind, make the following device and keep it handy
when needed. Cut a piece of aluminum and shape to fit flat against the round center chimney (vent
stack) outside on the left side. Best size is about 4 inches by 6 inches. Bend-over the top to form a
hook so it will hang on the chimney heat deflector. Remove as soon as the pilot is lit.
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Refrigerator Cooling Tips
Tech Tip No. 69-13, 1969
Is your Dometic cooling OK? Soot accumulates in the burner stack over months of use and may
need cleaning out. The burner assembly can be tapped gently with the handle of a screwdriver,
which often dislodges enough of the soot and rust to get you going again. If the failure is caused
by a vapor lock in the coils (usually not parking level), you need to shut the unit down completely.....then after a couple of hours of cooling, re-light. The warmer the weather, the more
important it is to park level. Remember this little tip on hot days.
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Winter Comfort
Tech Tip No. 69-17, 1969
This may sound strange, but it works! To get the maximum heat up front while driving, open both
front side windows about 1/4 inch. This draws heat forward from the engine vent or wall furnace
for wonderful driving warmth.
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Hot Air Heater Tubes
Tech Tip No. 70-19, 1970
If the heat tubes from the Corvair engine to the register box become worn, they can be replaced
easily with plastic covered 4 inch clothes drier duct available at most appliance stores. Be sure to
fully extend the tube when installing. You need two pieces 22 inches long. We changed ours long
ago (with the 4 inch flex) and it cost less but lasted much longer than the original fabric covered
type. Also, get 4 clamps to hold it.
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Coleman Heater Lighting Tip
Author: Al Hoffmann #506
Tech Tip No. 72-02, 1972
Ever had difficulty lighting the old type Coleman heater? The one without the electric blower?
When a gale is blowing the match goes out as soon as you stick it in the little hole, to light the
pilot. Here is an idea that works every time. Close all the doors, windows and vents. Start the
engine (sorry this tip is for Corvair Ultras only) and open the engine heat register - that gidget
below the bed. Let the motor run for a few minutes to build up pressure in the van. Open the little
pilot light door and apply your lighted match. You will find the match flame is drawn right into the
hole - and voila! the pilot is lit, every time. May your little tootsies always be warm.
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Water Heater Blow Out (maintenance)
Author: Ed Martin #296
Tech Tip No. 72-06, 1972
You can use the air hose at the gas station to blow out the flue in the water heater. Insert the air
hose at the lower end, where the flame usually is, stand aside and give it several good blasts of air.
You will be very surprised at the amount of soot and rust that comes out.
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Pilot Light Problem
Tech Tip No. 73-03, 1973
Pilots slow to light? Just tap the pilot burner gently with a screwdriver. This allows the check
valve inside to drop so gas feeds freely. Pilot lights are used on refrigerator, water heater, cabin
heater and oven.
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Instant Water Heater Parts Source
Author: Gene Rich #326
Tech Tip No. 78-04, 1978
Parts and complete units for the Vaillant Geyser Instant Water Heater are available in the Los
Angeles area from the Norcold Company. If you have any trouble locating them, just contact the
author.
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Refrigerator Door Seal
Author: Thelma Cook #316
Tech Tip No. 82-07, 1982
When the refrigerator won’t keep it’s “cool”, the door “seal” is the main offender. If the seal isn’t
good, the precious cold air just pours out onto the floor. A good way to check the door seal is with
a thin credit card or a post card. Slip it between the seal and the frame of the “frige” all way round.
If the seal is loose anywhere, the seal is bad. REMEDY: Try warping the door, if that doesn’t fix it
you need a new seal.
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71
Toilet Repair Kit
Tech Tip No. 89-07, 1989
Part Numbers for Saniware Model #1000 Kits are:
Repair Kit (part number 98537 or 98601)
“U” Band Kit (part number 98504)
Bowl Seal Kit (part number 98550)
These kits are very hard to find. If you find a supply, buy all you can and advise me of the source.
I will buy all you can furnish and pass on to other club members at cost.
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Appliance Service & Parts
Author: Lou Laslo #474
Tech Tip No. 89-17, 1989
When rebuilding or correcting a problem with the Ultra stove, oven, heater or refrigerator and you
find you need help in troubleshooting or finding replacement parts, call or write to the following:
Lodgemobile Rentals Inc.
5450 Cleon Ave.,
North Hollywood, CA 91601
Phone: 818-762-0016 and ask for Phil Nagle, he is very knowledgeable and helpful.
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73
Recirculating Toilets
Author: Norm Helmkay #547
Tech Tip No. 89-21, 1989
In 1964, when we began motorcoaching (in a converted bus), we started with a little fold-up toilet
using plastic bags. Needless to say, the wife was unhappy with this, and as a result of an incident
on a 17 mile stretch of winding road, threatened to boycott future trips until there was a “proper”
toilet.
A Sani-ware marine toilet was installed which used little water, but still, a quart of water for every
flush, with two adults and three kids was a lot of weight to carry for both clean and black water.
In 1966, at an FMCA convention, Monomatic showed a “new” RV toilet, similar to those used on
airplanes. The introductory special was $199, but few were sold in the first 2 days. In exchange for
doing an on-site installation and giving a recommendation, we got one for $149. Little did we
know so many were interested, but wanted to see one work before buying. For the next two days
we had a steady stream of visitors to look and......some to try.
In the next eight years who knows how much our Monomatic saved in water, fuel and unscheduled pit stops.
Not sure how recirculators work? The basic unit is plastic and only weighs about 25 pounds. It is
a 100% self-contained toilet system that needs no pressure water hook-up or holding tank, but if
used with a tank (like our Ultra Vans) extends the use significantly. It uses 12 volt power only for
flushing. In the bottom, under the bowl is a grinder pump, a filter and a plastic bowl valve to
reduce toilet odor.
It is started with 3 gallons of water and regular toilet chemical to help break down solids and mask
odors. When the upper tank is full (about 8 gallons) it is dumped into the black water holding
tank.
A Saniware RV toilet uses about 12 gallons of new water and needs room for 17 gallons of black
water in the holding tank to match the number of flushes of the recirculating toilet, or in terms of
weight, 136 vs. 64 pounds of water and waste. Another recirculator plus is the sewage is already
ground into fine bits before it goes into the holding tank.
The initial cost of a modern re-circulator is much higher than in 1966. A Thedford Electro-Magic
Model 80 is the current state-of-the-art and runs between $350 and $400.
There must be disadvantages. Why aren’t they used in all motorhomes? Weight no longer seems
to be a problem with the big rigs, some of which have water and holding tanks of 100 gallons or
more. Also, the ad writers are pushing the china toilets as “just like the one you have at home”.
This is designed to put the ladies at ease.
Recirculators do have some problems besides initial cost. Because they have a dry bowl, some
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education is needed to keep it clean (a bit of paper on the bottom of the bowl before use, if other
than liquids) and lastly, odor control. The same chemicals are needed as in the holding tank except
its up-top. If you use too little, or don’t drop the upper tank when its full, there can be some odor
during flushing.
We’ve had recirculators in 3 of our 4 coaches and like the wife says: “wouldn’t leave home without one”.
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Tanks
Water Taste – an easy tip to remove that plastic tank “taste”
Rubber Drinking Water Supply Hose – make sure you fill up with a “clean” hose
Save Your Tanks (from corrosion) – delay tank replacement with this easy preventative measure
Aluminum Holding Tank Maintenance – use this liquid soap to lubricate and protect your tanks
Usable Fresh Water – a quick tip on estimating your required water supply
Tanks – Replace or Upgrade – contemplate a fuel/water tank upgrade vs. replacement
Tanks, An Analysis of – an in-depth look at tank materials and coatings
Gas Tank Repair – detailed procedure to fix your gas tank
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Water Taste
Tech Tip No. 67-03, 1967
After a number of flushings and long use.....the plastic tank “taste” will disappear. However, there
is a quicker way. Half fill the tank then pour a solution (made with a box of baking soda dissolved
in a gallon of water) in through the filler hose with a funnel. Drive around for an hour or so to
slosh the solution around the tank, then if possible let sit for a day or so then slosh around again.
Drain tank and refill to rinse, then drive around again, then drain out the rinse water. Your tank
will thereafter be sweet and clean.
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Rubber Drinking Water Supply Hose
Tech Tip No. 68-06, 1968
The water in your tank will be no purer than the hose you fill it with. Water “standing” in some
hoses pick-up a very strong taste. When you fill-up with “any old hose” without first running
plenty of water through it, you can be drinking terrible water, even if your tanks are sweet.
Tanks
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78
Save Your Tanks (from corrosion)
Tech Tip No. 70-16, 1970
Holding tanks may be “eaten” through by galvanic or electrolytic action, or may acid-corrode
chemically, unless preventive steps are taken early enough. One method is to pour a cup of glycol
anti-freeze in the toilet now and then, after the tank has been emptied, rinse down with a quart of
water. This coats the entire tank inside, as it fills, with a thin protective glycerin-like-film, does not
harm rubber, brass, aluminum, iron or plastic. It lubes the pump-impellers and helps prevent corrosion of the hose ends and drain caps too. This suggestion can save each club member up to $100
by delaying holding tank replacement costs and eliminating some pump and other problems.
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79
Aluminum Holding Tank Maintenance
Tech Tip No. 75-03, 1975
My tanks are now almost seven years old and are still going strong.
We use “Basic-H”, a liquid non-detergent soap.
After flushing your tank with clean water, run a 1/2 cup of Basic-H through the toilet grinder.
This stuff lubricates your pumps and grinder, protects the aluminum from corroding and keeps
everything sweet smelling.
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Usable Fresh Water
Tech Tip No. 78-09, 1978
You may have your own ideas on how to determine how much usable fresh water you are hauling
along, but for those who aren’t satisfied with their own methods, here is how I do it. Drain the
fresh water tank with the bathroom faucet. When the water stops running, cut-off the drain from
the tank as quickly as possible, of course the coach should be level. Now you have established the
usable level in the freshwater tank. Next put as much water in the tank as you feel will be needed
for the next over-night stop. Naturally, if you are going across a desert you will want to carry more
than when running in a mountain area.
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81
Tanks – Replace or Upgrade
Tech Tip No. 86-22, 1986
Do we really want to just replace the standard tanks, or may we be better advised to use tank
replacement at upgrade time?
Do we really need a thirty gallon fuel tank?
I propose a new fuel tank (material?). Dimensions: 77” long x 10” wide by 5” deep at the sides
and tapered to a depth of 7” at the center. Capacity: 20 gallons (this gives a sump effect at the center and eliminates the dual pick-up system on early coaches. It provides about 7” of excess space
between the fuel and water tank. Mount 1” aft of present position where it provides a new area for
mounting.
New Water Tank (material? – Editor: stainless steel?). Size: 77” (or 75”) long by 22” wide by 5”
high with taper to 7” at center Capacity: 44 gallons. 77” is current length, 75” gives room for 1”
foam insulation between tank and side rail attach structure - maybe? Yes or No? Mount tank 1”
forward of current spot for new mounting area. See the drawing below.
This proposal does not interfere with the holding tanks on either the early or late models. It allows
new mounting positions and adjusts tank sizes to what in my opinion is a more rational allocation
of space.
Tech Editor Jim Craig’s Comment: How would these ideas effect the structural soundness of the
coach body? Your comments please.
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Tanks, An Analysis of
Tech Tip No. 86-37, 1986
TANKS – ULTRA Tanks are part of structure/fuselage. If tank(s) were made of stainless steel,
would the added rigidity transfer undesirable stresses to the aluminum hull? Maybe? Same might
be said or questioned if made of fiberglass.
Certainly making the tanks deeper at the center (as in later coaches for water & holding) gives
advantages. It would have been better if the fuel tank also had a true low point or sump section to
ensure a more positive fuel “pick-up” point. Darn good point.
But Note: The sump should have a fairly large plug, like some of the later coaches, with a pick-up
tube coming right into a cup in the plug. Incidentally, in 513, I use a strainer from early Volkswagen-Pros 4” long, “O” ring sealed and slips right over the 5/16” aluminum pick-up tube. The
drain plug keeps it in place.
FOAM COATING OF TANKS - During research for the manual, I sought advice and knowledge
from insulation experts.
Their general opinion was:
Sprayed foam of 21/2” uniform thickness would resist cold penetration (heat loss) for only
between 21/2 to 3 hours thus an overnight stop of 8 to 12 hours would not insure against
freezing, especially as the “outside” of the foam is subject to air flow over it. Heat loss while
driving would increase considerably.
Also, as the foam is not “sandwiched” it becomes a great trap for dirt, water, mud, etc. A further reasoning shows that the rough texture of the foam just adds to the underside drag. In
addition, the first indications of spots that pinpoint corrosion are hidden by the foam. On 513,
I removed all the foam from the water and holding tanks. Of course, I don’t but rarely drive or
stay in sub-freezing areas.
I’ve given lots of thought to the Ultra tank problem and those to be met in the future, knowing full
well that I too will have to face them and find a solution.
FUEL TANK - Aluminum seems to be adequate providing the upper skin is deep V formed laterally to add to the plywood floor strength. Tapering to a low of 7” with a sump at the low point is
very desirable to insure no “fuel pickup skip”. Past history of Ultra fuel tank problems so far is
minimal. See the drawing at the end of this article for the later type of plug and how to machine it
for an “O” ring seal. Hutchison failed on this.
WATER & HOLDING TANKS - These are, have and will be a problem in the future as corrosion
from inside advances. Some Ultras had fiberglass holding tanks and some had fiberglass water
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tanks. There was no consistency. I have yet to see an Ultra with fiberglass water and holding tanks
in the same coach. My “gut” feel is stainless is the best bet, provided the top is deeply V grooved
for longitudinal rigidity to support the plywood floor, which also reduces spot weight pressure on
the internal baffles.
However, stainless steel does not have a metal memory like aluminum, thus when twisted, distorted, bowed or bent will not return to original position or shape. Even fiberglass has some ability
to return...but to get the strength it must be thicker and heavier (lbs).
During my career with Flying Tiger Lines, we ran 6 Budd Conestola planes which were all stainless steel. They creaked, groaned and moaned in flight. Worse yet, they developed literally hundreds of small to medium wrinkles both on the fuselage, wings and even the flaps. The whole ship
used Monel rivets. Worst of all was the development of many (hundreds) of skin cracks that had to
be stop-drilled after every trip. The ships finally looked like sieves when viewed from the inside
out.
In just 1 year of operation, Tiger gave up and disposed of the four left (two cracked up over the
Rockies – cause never determined. Not enough left to analyze.
IN SUMMARY ON TANKS - If I had adequate engineering training, I would seriously consider
designing and building trusses in the tank compartment area, then hang plastic tanks in cradles
and kill many birds with one stone.
(A) Available in all manner of shapes and sizes.
(B) Non corrosive and light weight
(C) Tunnels or fore and aft passages could be incorporated for wiring, controls, propane and
brake lines, etc.
(D) Bottom of coach could be skinned for smooth air flow and gather less dirt, mud, etc.
Of course all this is dreaming...I don’t have the know-how to even start such a project. Also, the
biggest problem would be how to support the floor inside. Then too, plumbing tank to tank would
be another ball game. In all, Ultra always regretted there was no “tunnel” fore and aft to accept
controls, wiring, piping, etc.
At one time, I made numerous “thinking sketches” trying to get workable ideas, but working
alone probably missed the most obvious solutions.
That’s a job for a “think TANK group”.
(drawing for modified fuel tank plug is on the next page)
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fuel pick-up tube
tank bottom
sump ring AN adapter
gasket
AN plug
modified plug – enlarged view
“O” ring
modified plug
Before installing the “O” ring, deburr the lower edge of the female threaded hole in the tank fitting
to reduce the tendency to tear the “O” ring on installation. Use anti-seize or teflon tape on the plug
threads and vaseline or oil to lubricate the “O” ring.
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85
Gas Tank Repair
Tech Tip No. 87-22, 1987
The following information pertains primarily to the early riveted Ultra tanks, but most of the
detail would also apply to the later ones. The main difference is the later tanks had welded seams
and joints instead of rivets.
Early tanks were sealed with an epoxy compound that was fuel resistant. As an additional precaution, a second sealer was poured into the tank and sloshed around to coat all the seams surfaces,
joints, rivet ends and previously installed sealer.
It appears the slosh top coat was 3M #EC777(light pink color) which has the consistency of maple
syrup. The new updated equivalent is 3M EC776 (Military Spec. #MIL-D-17591B). This is a tan,
brushable material with excellent oil, gasoline and aromatic fuel resistance with a consistency of
thin syrup.
Now for the problem, for some reason the old slosh coat began to peel and flake off of the inside
surfaces. Possibly due to sitting for long periods of time with only a little gasoline in it, allowing it
to dry out.
Anyway, the loose material would plug up the fuel pickup pipe in the tank. You can guess the rest.
If this is a problem on your Ultra, here is a method of repair that will correct the problem and get
you back on the road.
Drain all the gasoline, using all safety precautions. Disconnect the fuel line(s), vent hoses, filler
pipe and gauge sender wire. Support tank with a jack and 2’ by 2’ piece of plywood in the center
area, remove fasteners at the corners. Lower to ground and pull out from under coach. Drain any
remaining gas out and stand up on one end to drain and air dry, in the sun if possible.
The tank is divided into four compartments, with the one at the fill end being 95% sealed from the
remainder of the tank.
This is the reserve fuel section, it is sealed almost totally at the first inboard bulkhead. Along the
upper edge is a row of 1” holes that let the fuel flow into the rest of the tank.
If your tank does not have any hand access holes in the top, you will have to cut them. Start by
laying out two holes in the end compartments and one each in the center of the middle two. The
holes in the end compartments in diagonal corners. The centers of all holes must be 6” or more
from any edge or baffle. Cut all holes 4” in diameter. Make six cover plates that are 6” in diameter.
Lay a cover over the center of each hole and drill holes 1” apart around the perimeter 5/16” back
from the edge with a #30 drill. These will be used later to rivet the covers on.
Inspect all areas inside the tank for loose, flaking, peeling top coating and rubber sealant material.
Use a putty knife to remove as much loose material as possible. Remove anything remaining
Tanks
86
debris with a vacuum cleaner. Use a good bright flashlight and inspection mirror to view all corners.
Get the following sealant: PR-1422 A-2 which is available from Products Research & Chemical
Corporation, write or call them at: 410-416 Jersey Ave., Gloucester City, NJ 08030 609-456-5700
for a dealer in your area. The sealer costs about $26 a quart. PR-1422 A-2 is a brushable sealant
that allows a two hour working time, and cures in 48 hours. It has outstanding resistance to all
fuels, including aircraft types and does not require a top coating of any other material.
Reseal all edges of the reserve fuel compartment, inboard bulkhead, inner sides of end bulkheads,
rivet (bucked ends) of flanges, and any other fasteners you think may loosen up or leak in the
future. Also, seal over the edges of any area where you scraped away the old peeling and flaking
previous coating.
Install all six cover plates with closed end pop-rivets. Use PR 1422 A-2 sealant under the plates,
over the rivet heads and around the plate edges.
NOTE: Closed end rivets can be found at trailer/camper parts houses or specialty fastener supplier. The brand I used were “Gesipa” (W. Germany) 500 per box. Cost: $21.00 (Call me if you
can’t locate any).
Seal all outer edges of tank, exposed rivet and screw heads with same sealant.
With lower drain plugs removed, blow high pressure air through the fuel lines. Cut two “V”
notches in the lower end of each fuel pickup tube. Install inline fuel filter over tubes to prevent any
future debris from plugging the tube. I used a Purolator #P-120 (2” by 3/4” dia).
Install lower drain caps, using new neoprene rubber gaskets.
Verify operation of fuel transmitter by installing a ground wire and extending the original instrument wire so you can test out from under the coach. Install the transmitter in the tank and seal all
fasteners and edges. Set tank in sun for three days or so, then install.
Remember, at least 48 hours should elapse before you put fuel in the tank. (I allowed 7 days just
to make sure) Reason? Variation in my mixing of the sealant base and accelerator.
Install tank, connect fuel lines, filler pipe, vent hoses and gauge wire. Make sure vent lines/hoses
are clear by blowing through them. Try five gallons in the tank to test for leaks......ah! none naturally.
Tanks
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Tanks
87
Plumbing & Pumps
Throne Groan or Chopper Pump Slow-Down – a quick fix to speed up a slow pump impeller
Water Pump Spare Parts – part and kit numbers for water pump repair
Reverse Flush (Overboard Pump) – easy tip to clean out a clogged overboard pump
A Rose By Any Other Name (tank fix) – if you have 4 tanks, check this fitting for deterioration
Water System Accumulator – adding an air chamber will make for smoother water flow
Dumping It! by Back Flushing – easy tip to clean out a clogged overboard pump
Slow Bath Drains – easy tip to fix semi-clogged bath drains
Mouth Powered Water Pump Primer – you can literally help prime the water pump
Water Pumps – Fresh Water – PAR – order new pump diaphragms from this source
Pump – Fresh Water – Peters & Russell – an update to adding water pump circuits
Ultra Pump Motor Replacement – you don’t have to replace the entire water pump
Eliminating the Chopper Pump – this conversion is easy and solves liquifier/motor problems
Pony Pump Kit Update – repair kits are still available
Pony Pump Kit Update Again – this update adds more information to the previous update
Water Pump Switch – upgrade to this replacement pressure switch
Pumps – Fresh Water – Peters & Russell – try this tip if your pump loses prime or doesn’t pump
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Plumbing & Pumps
88
Throne Groan or Chopper Pump Slow-Down
Tech Tip No. 68-02, 1967
A table spoon of Crisco or soft cooking lard (any water-soluble grease) is a good lube for the
impeller blades of your chopper pump. If you notice the pump gradually getting a bit sluggish, try
“Spry” before it slows to a stop. The pump usually works like new again after the above treatment.
Plumbing & Pumps
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Plumbing & Pumps
89
Water Pump Spare Parts
Tech Tip No. 68-07, 1968
A number of Ultra Vans are equipped with ITT-Jabsco water pumps (#12360-611-08). Impeller
for this pump is 6303-37. Complete parts kit is #SK61 which includes: impeller, seal, gasket and
screws. Order from: Pump Engineering Co. 14906 Spring Ave. Santa Fe Springs, CA 90670.
1992 NOTE: This pump is not the pump noted in the Ultra manual on page 6-6. The above pumps
were used on the early coaches and most were upgraded to the Peters and Russell diaphragm type
pump.
Plumbing & Pumps
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Plumbing & Pumps
90
Reverse Flush (Overboard Pump)
Tech Tip No. 69-05, 1969
If your overboard pump runs but nothing comes out the end of the hose, shut the pump off immediately. Instead of removing the assembly to clean out the clog, simply connect the end of the hose
to a city water faucet....and use a bit of pressure to “reverse flush” the system. Be careful to only
open the tap a little bit....then disconnect, and try your pump. Repeat if necessary.
Plumbing & Pumps
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Plumbing & Pumps
91
A Rose By Any Other Name (tank fix)
Tech Tip No. 72-04, 1972
Hold your nose while reading this. A rubber hose which runs underneath the van floor from the
grinder pump to a fitting on the aft side of the holding tank. This fitting which dumps the output of
the toilet into the holding tank, is made of cheap pot metal. It eventually deteriorates to the point
where it separates from the holding tank and sprays the honey all over the landscape. Check this
fitting soon and replace it with a brass one, if possible. You may breathe now.
1992 NOTE: This tip only applies to coaches with 4 tanks, see drawing 6-A on page 6-02 of the
Ultra Coach Manual.
Plumbing & Pumps
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Plumbing & Pumps
92
Water System Accumulator
Tech Tip No. 72-11, 1972
Add an air chamber to your water system for smoother water flow. The chamber builds up reserve
pressure by providing an air cushion in the water system. The pump runs a little longer but will
not come on as often. Make the chamber from 3 inch drain pipe about 6 inches long, add two caps
with threaded opening in one cap into which a nipple is threaded. Add a “T” in the water line with
the open side up. Screw the nipple into the open side so the chamber is vertical. See the drawing
below.
to faucets
to water pump
Plumbing & Pumps
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Plumbing & Pumps
93
Dumping It! by Back Flushing
Tech Tip No. 78-16, 1978
Many club members depend entirely upon the built-in Ultra Overboard pump and a garden hose
for emptying the holding tank. I, like several others, have never drained the holding tank any other
way. That method worked well with #228 for 8 years and even better with #603.
Once in a while, the pump may not produce full flow (or any flow at all) due to a plugged condition. Why spend a few hours taking the system apart? If you experience this problem, it generally
is easily solved by “back-flushing”. Simply attach one end of the drain hose to a city-pressure
water supply faucet, then open the supply faucet slightly. Now re-try the overboard pump and you
will find as a rule the obstruction has been cleared and full flow is restored.
Plumbing & Pumps
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Plumbing & Pumps
94
Slow Bath Drains
Tech Tip No. 80-13, 1980
Nothing seems to have been said about slow running bath drains and 298 seems to have been
semi-plugged as far back as I can remember. Recently, I placed a thick (about 1/8”) rubber washer
around the male end of my water hose, turned the water on full force down the drain as far as the
washer would let it go and let the full force of the water force the debris out of the drain line. In
my case, it worked perfectly, I now have the fastest draw....I mean drain, in the West.
Plumbing & Pumps
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Plumbing & Pumps
95
Mouth Powered Water Pump Primer
Author: Arnold Steenburg #507
Tech Tip No. 80-23, 1980
Ever had your coach water pump lose its prime? You can let it run and run....maybe it will eventually “catch-hold”, especially if you crack open a faucet to drop the back-pressure as much as possible. If you are a bit of an acrobat, you might get your mouth over the kitchen spout or turn the
shower on and suck on it.
A better way is to get a foot or two of 3/8” clear vinyl tubing and a rubber stopper that will fit
inside the faucet spout after removing the aerator. Drill a hole through the stopper to tightly fit the
tubing.
When the pump loses its prime, simply remove the aerator, push the stopper into the end of the
spout and draw on the end of the tube with your mouth while the pump is running and the faucet
is open. This little suction assist will solve your P.P.P. (priming problem pronto).
Plumbing & Pumps
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Plumbing & Pumps
96
Water Pumps - Fresh Water - PAR
Tech Tip No. 82-06, 1982
Diaphragms in these pumps are now all quite old and many are cracking. Order new parts from
Jabsco ITT, Costa Mesa, CA before a failure occurs. The Jabsco address and pump parts list are
shown on Ultra Manual page 6-7. Their phone number is: 714-545-8251.
Plumbing & Pumps
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Plumbing & Pumps
97
Pump – Fresh Water – Peters & Russell
Tech Tip No. 82-12, 1982
The following tip is an amendment to the Ultra Manual to add the water pump circuits. This
update should answer a number of questions which have arisen regarding the Driver Water Pump
Warning Light.
Two (2) methods of wiring are possible for the warning light (see drawings below):
Condition 1: The Driver Water Pump Warning Light indicates only when the pump is actually
running. This is typically the way most Ultras are wired.
Condition 2: If desired, the Driver Water Pump Warning Light will be “on” whenever the
Pump Control Switch is in the “on” position.
Plumbing & Pumps
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Plumbing & Pumps
98
Ultra Pump Motor Replacement
Author: Dennis D’Amico #383
Tech Tip No. 83-06, 1983
It is possible and desirable to replace just the motor part of the Ultra Pump rather than buying a
whole new pump.
Plumbing & Pumps
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Plumbing & Pumps
99
Eliminating the Chopper Pump
Tech Tip No. 84-01, 1984
Some club members continue to have a bit of trouble with the liquifier and motor under their
coach toilet.
A few tell me the best improvement they made was to eliminate the problem entirely by emptying
the toilet directly into the holding tank. That is the way #603 and all the three tank Ultras built in
Hutchison work.
Simply cut a 4” hole in the bathroom floor (under the toilet) and use plastic ABS pipe to hook the
unit to the tank below. In most cases, a 3” elbow will be needed to reach the side of the holding
tank. Epoxy (fiberglass) it into the tank after cutting a 3” hole – maybe use a flange and a few
screws to hold it in place, then epoxy in the screws.
Most trailer supply stores have proper 3” fittings to do the job. All troublesome motor/grinder/
pump failures are thus over with.
Plumbing & Pumps
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Plumbing & Pumps
100
Pony Pump Kit Update
Author: Dan Reinhardt #404
Tech Tip No. 86-36, 1986
Repair kits P/N SRK-2 are still available at $6.50 each plus shipping.
Change the phone number in the Ultra manual to 213-223-4296.
Note: check out the update on this update!
Plumbing & Pumps
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Plumbing & Pumps
101
Pony Pump Kit Update Again
Tech Tip No. 87-03, 1987
Add the following to Tech Tip 86-36:
The rebuild kit noted in Tech Tip 86-36 was #SRK-2 and it contained a 6 blade rubber impeller.
This kit is OK for the shower drain, toilet flush water and perhaps the overboard pump, but the
impeller for the fresh water system should have a 12 bladed impeller.
It has been arranged, as of Dec 1, 1986, the Proven Pump Corp. will:
Sell Ultra Van’ers a similar kit to SRK-2, except it will contain a 12 bladed rubber impeller. The
new kit is No. “SRK-2A”. Cost is $10.50 plus shipping.
The 12 blade impeller can be bought separately. P/N P100-3, cost $8.00.
The 3 or 4 hole lower chromed plate is also available. Part No’s are:
Three Hole is 3MPU-6C and Four Hole is 3MPU-D-6. Cost $4.00 each.
Purchase from:
Proven Pump Corp.
1440 North Spring Street
Los Angeles, CA 90012
213-223-4296 (ask for Heather)
Plumbing & Pumps
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Plumbing & Pumps
102
Water Pump Switch
Tech Tip No. 90-09, 1990
After doing some recent plumbing repair work on the Ultra water system, I found the water pump
would not shut off after closing the faucet at the sink. Problem part? It was the original old red
plastic covered pressure switch, P/N 5660-K. It would not adjust for the pressure by turning the
Allen set screw, so a new one was required.
My pump is a Peters & Russell Model 6970-J, type 4. The new upgraded pressure switch is JABSCO P/N 37121-0000. A new switch kit can be ordered from: Western Marine 1-800-262-8243,
or direct from ITT, JABSCO at 714-545-8251 in California.
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Plumbing & Pumps
103
Pumps – Fresh Water – Peters & Russell
Tech Tip No. 90-22, 1990
Sometimes the pump loses it prime, fails to pump or pumps in spurts. This may be caused by mineral deposits on the valve surfaces. Try pumping 2 or 3 gallons of HOT WATER through the
pump. This will usually cure this problem.
Plumbing & Pumps
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Plumbing & Pumps
104
Propane System
Propane Tank Valve Tip – an easy tip to avoid leaking propane
Cleaning the Refrigerator Pilot Jet – how to clean the pilot jet hole
LP-Gas Pressure Regulator – quick checklist to make sure your regulator is in good shape
Propane Tank – Loose Screw in Valve – check for a loose screw in the filler valve
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Propane System
105
Propane Tank Valve Tip
Tech Tip No. 72-05, 1972
When opening your propane tank valve, don’t just crack the valve a bit or open it only part way. It
will leak propane gas if you do. Always open the valve all the way until the handle stops turning
out.
Propane System
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Propane System
106
Cleaning the Refrigerator Pilot Jet
Tech Tip No. 78-13, 1978
If anyone has tried to clean the pilot jet hole, they know a very tiny wire is needed. In watchmaking, we use very tiny broaches and I have a few left which do the job quite nicely. They are yours
for the asking.
Propane System
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Propane System
107
LP-Gas Pressure Regulator
Tech Tip No. 87-10, 1987
The LP regulator is an item we take for granted is always doing its job. But is it? It does require
some maintenance such as checking for small leaks, making sure the vent is unobstructed and
pointing downward to prevent moisture and debris from entry. Check all over exterior for any sign
of corrosion. Replace if ANY is found. If you have a hose attached to the LP tank vent, remove it
at the valve end and verify that it is clear inside the hose by blowing through it.
Propane System
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Propane System
108
Propane Tank – Loose Screw in Valve
Author: Bob Franz #472
Tech Tip No. 87-18, 1987
Several members reported finding a slot head common screw loose inside the throat area of the
filler valve on their propane tank. In my case, the screw was only a half turn loose. Its supposed to
be tight.
To locate the screw, remove the filler protective cap. Look directly into the filler valve. The screw
is deep, about 11/2 to 2 inches inside. Use a 6” common flat blade screwdriver, turn screw clockwise to a snug fit. Reinstall cap, and that’s it.
Propane System
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Propane System
109
Fuel System
Power Loss Under Full-Load – places to check for fuel starvation
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Fuel System
110
Power Loss Under Full-Load
Author: Ernie Newhouse #603, Lee La Fevre #422
Tech Tip No. 80-11, 1980
Lee and I talked about his loss of power cresting a hill. Exactly the same problem we had with
#603 last Fall in the Ozarks. Maybe our experience will help a fellow member solve their problem
quicker.
If your coach runs beautifully on the level, but misses as you climb a hill it is pretty certain the
problem is fuel starvation. The same might be true against a strong wind. The first thing you try is
a fuel pump...I did. A new one didn’t help.
Removed the line to the carb and pulled the fuel filter there, I could blow through it both ways
easily. We climbed and coasted up and down the Ozark hills another day....the engine missed as
we neared each crest. The main filter (glass bowl type) near the main tank was checked days
before and it was perfectly clean...so the problem couldn’t be there! Determined to find the problem, I changed the whole filter anyway. Couldn’t blow through it at all, plugged with varnish that
apparently we had picked up in the gasoline along the way somewhere.
Fuel System
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Fuel System
111
Suspension & Drive
Shocking News – two choices for front and rear shocks
Coil Spring Curve Cure – an easy fix for curved coil springs
Shock Absorber Springs – increase the load capacity with these springs
Rear Wheel Bearings – prolong the life of your rear wheel bearings with this procedure
Rear Wheel Bearing Lubrication – lubrication procedure for your rear wheel bearings
Front Wheel Well Aluminum Castings – where to get a replacement casting
“Ruckus In The Rear” Rear Hub Bearing – procedure to assure trouble-free rear bearings
Coil Springs – GM part number and cars that use this coil spring
NAPA Shocks for the Ultra Van – source for original replacement shocks
Suspension Bushings – second source for suspension bushings
Bearings – plan ahead for possible bearing failure
Stability On The Road – radius rods and sway bars help stability
Shock Absorbers – Front – two choices for a front shock
Shock Absorbers – Rear – a choice for a rear shock for Corvair Ultras
Shock Absorber Mounting – Rear – how to strengthen the rear mounting hole for Corvair Ultras
A-Frame Front Upper with Turnbuckles – follow this procedure to avoid front frame damage
Universal Joints – Drive Shaft – where to install the slip spline on the drive shaft
Suspension “I” Beams – Front & Rear – a source for “I” and stub beams
Ball Joint (Stud Unit) Front Suspension – several replacement choices for front ball joints
Shock Absorbers – Front Suspension – two sources for front shocks
Shock Absorbers – Rear – Corvair – modifying “off-the-shelf” shocks is desirable for the rear
Rear Axle Vent Tube Tip – a gear-box vent tube will prevent heat expansion oil spills
Shock Absorber – Rear – Corvair #2 – two more sources for rear shocks
Shock Absorber – Front Suspension – another source for front shocks
Ultra Shock Absorber Review – all sources for front and rear shocks
Moly Grease & Additives – use Moly grease for wheel bearings
Dual Rear Wheels – Early Ultra Models – avoid unnecessary rear axle/bearing/U-joint stress
Auto-Moly Clarification (no lead) – Moly grease from Pacific Lubricants contains no lead
Replacement Inner Speedometer Cable – where to get a quick replacement cable
Spot-Facing Later Lower “A” Frames – procedure to spot-face the lower “A” frame
Magnetic Drain Plug on V8 “V” Drive – regularly check the sump “V” drive
Shock Absorber, Front – source for front shocks
Front Shock Absorber for V8 Ultras – check for this possible front shock problem on VV88’s
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Suspension & Drive
112
Shocking News
Author: Merrit Wemple #237
Tech Tip No. 68-05, 1968
Those who “load-up” their coaches extra heavy should look at Monroe Load Levelers FF-222 for
the rear end and Columbus Heavy Duty C-134 for the front. Also, Sears has an adjustable to fit the
Ultra Van, order Chevy II 1960-64 fronts for the front end and Corvair 1960-64 fronts for the
Ultra rear-end.
Suspension & Drive
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113
Coil Spring Curve Cure
Tech Tip No. 69-09, 1969
If the main supporting coil springs curves in or out, an easy way to fix it is simply rotate the
curved spring a half turn. Jack the vehicle securely then remove the bolts from the top two ears
welded on the spring and turn the spring 180 degrees and replace the bolts. The curve problem is
solved without special heating or any replacement cost.
Suspension & Drive
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114
Shock Absorber Springs
Tech Tip No. 69-15, 1969
To increase spring capacity so you can carry more load and not bottom out, install Ride-O-Matic
model 188 Shock Springs in front and rear. They fit over the present shocks, inside the Ultra Van’s
coil springs. The exact size (in case you can’t find the above brand) is 13” to 14” long and an
inside diameter of not under 21/4” and outside diameter of not over 33/4”.
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Suspension & Drive
115
Rear Wheel Bearings
Tech Tip No. 70-13, 1970
Original advice was rear wheel bearings never had to be greased. We now know this is not correct.
To avoid rear bearing failure, the hubs need to be pulled (with special equipment) for a re-pack job
at any good Chevy garage (in 1970, cost is about $90) or, you can drill and tap the iron hubs for a
Zerk-type grease nipple and pump a little wheel bearing lube with a grease gun now and then.
Nipples obtained at the auto store will need a 7/32” drill and 1/4 x 28 NF threading tap. Drill inside,
next to the backing plate, at a 30 degree angle about 3/8” deep. Don’t drill right through. Tap the
top of the hole and clean-out all the iron chips, then using a 1/8” greased drill, bore into the cavity.
If your hubs are already bad from lack of grease, Dave Peterson says 1965 or later complete hubs
are available at wrecking yards at considerable saving.
Suspension & Drive
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116
Rear Wheel Bearing Lubrication
Tech Tip No. 71-05, 1971
These bearings are lubricated at assembly and should run over 100,000 miles. However, some
have failed in service due to lack of lubricant.
To prevent failure for this reason, a way has been devised to grease the sealed area. Here, great
care must be taken; too much grease will ruin the seals and will run out onto the brakes and tires.
Do this job as follows: Jack and secure the coach. Remove the rear wheels. Clean all around the
area where the holes will be drilled.
Use a center punch to locate holes. Drill two 1/8” holes at a slight angle. Be careful to remove the
chips.
Install a Zerk fitting in the lower hole. Install small spring cap oiler in the upper hole.
CAUTION: The lower Zerk fitting is used to put grease in the sealed area. Use a standard grease
gun loaded with high-melt point wheel bearing lubricant. The upper hole prevents over filling
with too much pressure. Introduce lube through the lower fitting until it oozes out the top, STOP
THAT’S ENUF.
If you can’t find an oiler fitting, plug hole with a sheet metal screw. Be sure to remove it when you
grease bearing.
drill 1/8” dia. hole in upper part of
bearing housing – see text
universal joint
bolts
outer bearing seal
wheel spindle
inboard
Zerk
fitting
install in
lower hole
oiler
fitting
brake plate
install in
upper
hole
drill 1/8” dia. hole
in lower part of bearing housing
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117
Front Wheel Well Aluminum Castings
Tech Tip No. 72-01, 1972
At the top of the front wheel well is an aluminum casting to which the coil spring and shock
absorber are fastened. Some of these castings (especially the early ones) have bent or broken.
They should be inspected for cracks or bends.
At any sign of failure they should be replaced with an extruded “I” beam which can be obtained
from Dave Peterson, c/o Ultravan Mfg. Co. 366 8th Ave., Oakland, CA 94606.
You can install them yourself, or any garage mechanic worth his salt should have no difficulty. For
your own safety and peace of mind, don’t overlook this one.
1992 NOTE: See the Ultra Van Manual, Section 9, pages 15-16.
Suspension & Drive
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118
“Ruckus In The Rear” Rear Hub Bearing
Author: Fred Leary #434
Tech Tip No. 77-01, 1977
Since our brief mention of rear wheel bearings (Basic Bull – June 1975), we have continued the
search for a perfect solution. Larger bearings, better seals, fluid lubricant replacing the “once-in-awhile-maybe” grease job have all been considered – tested.
But the space limitations are too severe. If this were a Federal project, we would start with a complete new and larger assembly and proceed from there. Not so easy for us Federal Taxpayers.
Meanwhile, back at the Ultra Ranch, rear bearing assemblies (aged, overloaded, loose and dirty)
have been doing the snap, crackle, pop routine sort of regularly. One neat solution is to travel only
in convoy with the Club President (1975), who carries a spare unit, with tools and technique for
swapping same. (He does, and he did.) Many enlightened members are now likewise equipped.
With a spare, we can avoid a tow job and a “what do we do now” episode. Might save many days,
many dollars, with hardly a 50% chance of a reliable fix.
Even if we carry “spare insurance,” the original question persists – what is wrong with the rear
bearing assemblies in the first place? Nothing really that would justify a protest to the manufacturer or a 2¢ postcard to Ralph Nader. They were installed in 1965-69 Corvair passenger cars carrying about 800 lbs. per wheel, adjusted and lubricated to last 2-3 years without attention – and
they generally did so. Not always. A Kansas Karacter made the transplant to the Ultra Coach were
the load is much greater – like 100% or so. Even in this application, some have served 5-8 years
before making sudden protest. Remarkable! But we continue to hope (and work) for 20, not 3
year service. No guarantee, but our experience with 434, other coaches, and several Corvair passenger cards indicates that maybe we can point in that direction.
As the man said: “Let’s make one thing perfectly clear.” The rear wheel bearings do require regular disassembly, cleaning, adjustment and lubrication. Twelve months is considered the maximum period for wheel bearing service – rear or front – under any condition. Twice per year is not
too generous if the coach is used regularly. ALl that remains is doing it or having it done. Logically, we consult the dealers who originally sold the units (as part of the passenger car) and the
“help” is generally as follows:
a. “The bearings do not require service.” (Untrue)
b. “We do not have the equipment.” (Untrue)
c. “It is very expensive.” (True)
d. “Go away!”
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119
outer seal
spindle support
deflector
drive spindle
spindle drive flange
cross-section
thru source
of ruckus
inner seal
inner bearing
bearing end play shim
bearing spacer
outer bearing
This kind of assistance encouraged us to make a few special pullers to overcome the heavy press
fits by the factory and few years of seating and corrosion. In some cases, the puller came apart but
the axle didn’t. The first disassembly is never easy but is possible in any shop with a heavy duty
puller modified to accept four high strength bolts (3/8” dia., 6” long) which engage the four mounting holes in the housing. A hydraulic press with proper adapter plates is the deluxe method. But
once the shaft is liberated, we resolve that it won’t be that way the next time.
The villain is the press fit between the inner race of the inner bearing and the axle shaft. Solution:
While apart, we proceed to reduce the axle diameter to produce a hand-push fit on the shaft. The
shaft is “too big” for the inner race by only about one and one-half thousandths (0.0015”). Thus,
removal of less than one-thousandth on the circumference will give the necessary reduction in
diameter. A precision shop grinder might even be necessary, but a flat file (new), abrasive paper,
and frequent application of the micrometer can do a very satisfactory job. All cutting is to be done
by rotating the shaft. One “client” used abrasive paper only, and the results were fine, except that
he was somewhat older when the job was finished. The outer wheel bearing (very difficult to pull)
can remain in place, if serviceable. If defective, the race is removed by spot grinding and cracking
the race with no damage to the valuable shaft. A new outer bearing can be pressed on with little
difficulty.
We are gaining on it. The rear axle shafts and bearings can now be removed, inspected, and serviced about like the front wheels are treated. With regular attention, we just might get into the
“dozen-plus-years” service life. What we thought was an Ultra defect now permits a potential
baring life and reliability superior to any passenger car. The universal yoke remains a moderate
press fit on splines, but a smaller puller, hammer maybe, plus appropriate language, will put this
little item on the deck.
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V8 Ultras generally use rear axle assemblies “borrowed” from the Corvette. Minor differences in
construction, but the problem – and solution – are the same.
Cleaning and inspection are next: When we are sure that the roller retainers are perfectly clean, do
it one more time. Bearing inspection even with 20/20 and a magnifier will be less than complete...
the inner races are hidden by roller cage assembly. So we check the outer races and rollers looking
for cracks, pits, rust, and contact pattern, etc. If damage is noted, it is almost certain that the hidden inner races are worse. If replacement is indicated, this is the time. Bearings are inexpensive
and available; finding the correct spacer washer (some Chevrolet dealers) may require a little time
and a tranquilizer or two.
With the assembly clean but not yet lubricated, we are now eligible for the semi-annual maintenance Super Bonus. Each rear wheel – plus other spinning parts – can be accurately balanced.
No special equipment or skill is needed. We simply apply the “balancing act” used for many years
on the other end of the horse.
For those who have missed our “free and worth every cent of it” demonstration at rallys, it goes
like this:
1. Back off the brake shoe adjustment 2 turns.
2. Grease seals off.
3. Set bearing end play adjustment about one-quarter turn loose. Mount all rotating parts
(brake drums, wheel, and tire).
4. Vibrate the axle shaft (front) or the bearing housing (rear) with a hammer or wood block to
minimize bearing friction. The wheel will stabilize with the heavy side at 6 o’clock; light
side at 12 o’clock. Mark the light side on the tire.
5. Install balance weights on the light side so that the wheel will “hold” in the 3 o’clock, 9
o’clock, or any other position you choose. Properly done, a cotter pin or any equal weight
will unbalance the works. Not bad for a shade tree operation.
6. Mark the axle, brake drum, and wheel – they go back only in the position when balanced.
The five wheel studs will accept the drum and wheel in any of five positions, but only the
marked position will insure balance.
Necessity (not preference) led to the above balancing procedure. Having it done, even on special
“electronic spin balance” equipment has been found less than 50% accurate (the machines are
good – the operators are not). The shade tree method has been checked out at all reasonable
speeds on the coach and at some unreasonable figures on passenger cars. Results: good. Contrary
to what you may have heard, the Ultra vehicle (soft independent suspension; light body) is very
sensitive to wheel balance – front and rear. Critical speeds seem to be about 38 and (wouldn’t you
know it) 53 MPH.
Bearing adjustment is next: Not quite as easy as the front wheels but not too difficult either since
we have now applied the “hand push fit” to the inner bearing.The rear assemblies are held together
by a high torque on the large nut at the universal yoke. (60-80 ft.-lbs) Crush the bearings? It certainly would if we failed to replace the hardened steel sleeve and a selective washer between the
two inner races. The thickness of this washer (several available) is the key to bearing adjustment.
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Thick washer/loose bearings; thin washer/tight bearings. The large assembly nut might look like a
bearing adjustment, but it is not – full tightening and a cotter pin is the rule here; no cheating.
Bearing adjustment (end-play or lack thereof) is a matter of some dispute. The factory says 0.002”
to 0.006” end-play for final assembly – we say no (Good Gracious No, J.B.). We adjust to zero
end-play and a slight preload. Enough preload to feel, but hardly enough to measure. Space
washers come in “jumps” of 0.006” which explains why the factory tolerance is rather “generous.” The slight preload we desire can be produced only by lapping the washer to exact thickness.
Completed, the shaft will spin smoothly and quietly. A loose 0.005” end-play job (OK by GM)
will sound about like a worn out farm wagon.
While the machinery is apart, let’s correct another factory omission; add a “breather line” to the
bearing housing. With each change of temperature, altitude, etc., “breathing” must occur. Dirt and
water travel past the rather primitive seals directly to the bearings. The fix: Drill a 1/4” hole in the
top of the housing, press in a metal tube, add a short flexible hose bent downward to discourage
dirt and water. Install a “super micronic” filter in the hose (pipe cleaner oiled and folded a couple
of times).
Time to lubricate: Two suggestions – do so moderately and frequently. Twice as much will not
last twice as long; any excess will simply stick to the housing, plug our new breather tube or
escape the seal and hit the brake linings. All ungood. We continue to hear rumors of “Super Lubricants,” which apparently last forever, chase out dirt and water, adjust the bearings, and replace the
cotter pin. When we track one down, Ultra Clubbers will be the first to know.
On the other hand, we cannot assume that any container labelled “Grease” will be save for wheel
bearings. Many years ago, the lubricants available did not “stay put” in anti-friction bearings, so
fibers were added to help. We do not use or recommend “fibre grease” today although many are
still sold. There has been much recent development in the field of semi-solid (grease) lubrication.
Consistency, melting point, adhesion, water resistance, and other specifications are accurately
controlled in the better products. Also, several E.P. (Extreme Pressure) ingredients are available to
give protection during break-in, or following adjustment when the contact pattern is incomplete
and intense local pressure and abrasion can occur. The “MOLY” additives (Molydenum Disulphide) are especially effective under these conditions – just might save the whole ball game. The
“MOLY” lubricants are available in wheel bearing types. Well worth looking for.
Other than the observation that our modifications are maintenance system seem to work on 434
(and others), we have little to add. Our Ultra pet, adopted at 19,000 miles, had loose, noisy, and
dirty bearings. Following modification and regular attention since, all is well at 69,000 miles, 4
years later (same bearings). Other coaches modified include 296, 398, 416, and 489. Any difficulty would surely have been reported; 296, you are aware, has the “fasted pen in the West.”
The initial disassembly and rework operation will probably require some professional or skilled
assistance. But once performed, axle removal and service, including bearing replacement when
necessary, is a relatively simple operation. Let’s be specific: Your coach already has had, now
does, or soon will, demand attention. The choice is having it done at your convenience or facing
the problem at 10 PM Saturday night near milepost 398 on the interstate. Who knows? With the
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high durability of the Ultra chassis, engine, etc., correction of the rear bearing problem may produce a coach that will last forever.
For those who wish to go strictly “Factory Specs,” we have no objection. If you can find an eager
and competent Chevrolet dealer to perform their operation a couple of times per year, the results
would be equally good (bring money). In theory, we rather like the original press fit on the bearings – if someone else is going to take the shaft out each time.
Meanwhile our pull ‘em/clean ‘em/lube ‘em technique is working great and has a couple of other
points which will surely promote full confidence:
1. It is free. In case of trouble, a full refund is assured.
2. Like all previous Bulletins, this material is released only after full coordination with Jim*
or Jack*, two superb consultants from the Kentucky chapter.
Smooth Rolling,
Fred Leary
*Beam/Daniels
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Coil Springs
Author: John Graves #269
Tech Tip No. 80-17, 1980
I requested and received the following information from GM concerning coil springs. Part Number 3764408 is a Chevrolet Front Coil Spring. It is coated grey and purple with a maximum load
of 3019 lbs. The following are the years and usage this spring was released for:
1959 Convertible & S/W with PowerGlide, A/C and 348 engine
1959 & 1960 9 Passenger S/Wagon, A/C, Heavy Duty use
1960 Passenger Car with 348 engine
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NAPA Shocks for the Ultra Van
Author: Milt Reyburn #504
Tech Tip No. 80-19, 1980
Checking with the NAPA Store, we found their Heavy Duty “Regal Ride” #3027 / P12B79B are a
direct replacement for the original shocks.
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Suspension Bushings
Author: Charles Bylsma #533
Tech Tip No. 81-03, 1981
Bushings P/N 6255708 - Ten of these are used in the Corvair coach and eleven in the V8’s. They
are no longer available from GM but we have found a source....P/N FB190 Bushing from McQuay
Norris or P/N F6 62511 21 from Harris Silent Bloc.
Contact: McQuay Norris, 1201 Macklind Ave., St. Louis, MO 63110, Phone 314-645-8200.
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Bearings
Tech Tip No. 81-04, 1981
Inspection of all wheel bearings is a must if you want to have trouble free travelling. Check for
lubrication and roughness. Carry a full set of bearings with you, so if you have a failure, you
won’t have to wait for parts, or worse to not have to scrounge around to find them.
Remember, unless you are mechanically attuned, you may not hear the tell tale noise that indicates a bad bearing, then it can break-up or overheat and eventually create a real problem which
will become a breakdown on the road where just replacing a bad bearing or two will not be
enough.
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Stability On The Road
Author: Bob Ackerman #458
Tech Tip No. 81-08, 1981
To improve stability of the coach on the road, radius rods were installed on the rear, along with
custom made sway bars both front and rear. This eliminated the sway caused by wind or passing
trucks, etc.
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Shock Absorbers – Front
Tech Tip No. 82-02, 1982
The available shock absorber is the Munroe #3027 CWE289B “Regal Ride” Deluxe Heavy Duty,
available at NAPA stores. An alternative is Montgomery Wards #61-18400.
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Shock Absorbers – Rear
Tech Tip No. 82-03, 1982
A desirable replacement is NAPA #2006 x P5 87/8” closed, 137/8” extended, R factor 260/185.
This shock was used in Corvette front end.
NOTE: Spacing of bottom attach studs is 23/4” center to center. Elongate existing holes in rear
torque arm to accept the wider stud spacing of the new NAPA shocks.
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Shock Absorber Mounting - Rear
Tech Tip No. 82-04, 1982
Threaded end of shock shaft usually “chews” out the upper mounting hole in the I-Beam towards
the flange edge. To prevent this action and/or correct existing condition, bolt or rivet a steel plate
to lower flange as shown in drawing. It is necessary to counter bore both steel plate and upper aluminum “wedge piece” to accommodate lip of rubber cushion. See the drawing below.
I-beam
counter bore
lower flange
aluminum
“wedge piece”
steel plate
25/8” x 3” x 1/4”
shock shaft
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A-Frame Front Upper with Turnbuckles
Tech Tip No. 82-05, 1982
Severe damage to attach point structure has been reported when turnbuckles have been adjusted
by lengthening both at the same time without removing washers or shims at outer ends of the
arms. Using the forked shims as shown in the Ultra Manual at the bottom of Page 9-51 simplifies
the transfer of spacers. These are GM shims used in many GM cars. See part numbers and thicknesses shown.
REMEMBER: This A-Frame is actually a triangle when installed, thus lengthening front and rear
“legs” MUST spread the base of the triangle at the attach points.
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Universal Joints – Drive Shaft
Tech Tip No. 82-17, 1982
Some controversy exists as to where the slip spline on the drive shaft should be installed....nearest
the differential or nearest the rear spindle, to assure the least vibration and get the longest “U”
Joint life. Two Spicer publications recommend the slip joint be installed at the spindle. Please
send your correspondence to our new address:
Len Ryerson
18618 Rayen Street
Northridge, CA 91324 (not much change! Just moved next door.)
If you have any problems or findings that would be of interest to Ultra owners, we would appreciate hearing from one and all. We will do our best to research and answer your letters via the Technical Report.
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Suspension “I” Beams – Front & Rear
Tech Tip No. 83-05, 1983
I have a limited supply of “I” and stub beams on hand and can get more. These can be cut to order.
Contact:
Len Ryerson
18618 Rayen St.
Northridge, CA 91324
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Ball Joint (Stud Unit) Front Suspension
Tech Tip No. 83-11, 1983
The original GM P/N 3865827 is superseded with P/N 9762018. Some alternates recommended
by other Ultra owners are:
TRW Stud Unit P/N 10207
Moog Stud Unit P/N K6034
Perfect Circle Stud Unit P/N 206-1071
NOTE: Your technical reporter has not been able to positively prove these alternates...so suggest
you take the old unit along for comparison to check fit and dimensions.
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Shock Absorbers – Front Suspension
Tech Tip No. 83-12, 1983
The original shocks were P/N 3027 & 9027, manufacturer unknown. Alternates recommended by
other Ultra Owners are:
Montgomery Ward P/N 61-18400
Munroe Regal Ride, Heavy Duty P/N 3027 CWE 28 D
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Shock Absorbers – Rear – Corvair
Tech Tip No. 83-13, 1983
Finding the desirable rear shock is not difficult if the Corvair Ultra Owner will modify the shock
installation as outlined on page 9-55. Thus he can use many current “off-the-shelf” shocks plus
gain the advantage of having the shock mounted where it really belongs – that is, behind the rear
wheel as it was on the Corvair cars...as shown on pages 9-49 & 9-55.
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Rear Axle Vent Tube Tip
Tech Tip No. 85-19, 1985
When installing a new vent tube in #603, I pushed it down a LITTLE too far...in the heat of the
day later on, about a pint of gear oil appeared on our rear-yard pavement right under the vent tube.
This proved the action was begun by heat expansion. Our expert, Fred Leary recommended a
gear-box vent...temperature expansion inside would otherwise tend to push oil out through the
wheel bearing seals (603 has a modified truck solid rear-axle). One of the first things done to our
rig was drill the vent hole and place a tube tightly in it as Fred advised. Temperature, thus,
breathes air in and out....not oil....as per “Leary Theory”....the bearing seals still seem sound.
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Shock Absorber - Rear - Corvair #2
Author: Jim Craig #232, Charlie Smith #348
Tech Tip No. 86-27, 1986
Use “Midas Lifeguard Shock #MB 786”. This shock replaces the long type that attaches to the
rear of the trailing arm or if you have a real early Ultra with leading arms it attaches in front. It is
available at most Midas Muffler Shops.
Also, try K-Mart #2183-C0112982R1 (not in all K-Marts)
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Shock Absorber – Front Suspension
Tech Tip No. 86-28, 1986
NAPA Parts Stores sell the original type front shock...ask for #3027 NAPA Deluxe HD.
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Ultra Shock Absorber Review
Tech Tip No. 87-17, 1987
Front Shock Absorbers:
NAPA Deluxe H.D. #3027 (original type)
MONROE Regal Ride H.D. #3027 CWE28B
WARDS #61-18400
MONROE #6013 (#205 and later Ultras)
Rear Shock Absorbers:
NAPA #2006XP5
K-Mart #2183-C0112982R1
MIDAS “Lifeguard” #MB786
GABRIEL “Roadstar” #26186 (early Ultra with Corvair suspension)
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Moly Grease & Additives
Tech Tip No. 88-03, 1988
“Ernie’s Grease.” We have all heard of it and most know what it is. For those that don’t, it is a
super moly grease that is used in wheel bearings and all other similar bearing surfaces that require
a long lasting and good wearing grease.
Moly grease contains Molydenum Desulfide (MOS2), which is like having millions of tiny soft
ball bearings that keep rubbing metal surfaces from contacting each other. The higher quality
Moly (which Ernie’s is) is still available from Pacific Lubricants Co. 5165 G St., Chino, CA
91710 Phone: 714-591-1480...call for prices.
Another high quality moly grease is available in 14 oz. tubes for your grease gun from Shell Oil.
It is called Super Duty Multi-Purpose Lubricant. Quote from tube: “Super Duty, a modern day
“Moly/Poly” grease with molybdenum Desulfide and a polymer to provide superior protection
under high temperature and pressures.”
Some Moly greases contain LEAD, use CAUTION, avoid skin contact.
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Dual Rear Wheels – Early Ultra Models
Tech Tip No. 88-06, 1988
Having heard rumors that all owners of the early Ultra Vans which originally had dual wheels
installed on the rear had been advised to remove them, had me concerned about putting them on
my #202.
So a letter to Mr. Dave Peterson was mailed and his response was – “Keep the larger tires on the
inside and/or about 10 pounds more air on the inside tire.” “The trouble with most people was that
they always put their best tires (larger/more tread) on the outside for looks.” “This is hard on the
bearings, axle and “U” joints.”
Good advice! In addition, the rear wheel assembly should have a zero to slight negative camber
(tilted in at the top) when the van is empty. This way the inside dual wheel will carry most of the
load and less strain will be put on the “U” joints, axle and bearing.
Of course, to make it all work, it depends on several items:
1. Have all four wheels (duals) balanced (spun off the van) using only offset type weights
2. Use aluminum band spacer between the steel wheels
3. Install extension hoses (12”) to the inner wheel air valve and mount the other end to center
opening of outer wheel
4. Install 8 lug nut extensions and torque to 60-70 ft. lbs.
5. Install outer wheel making sure aluminum band does not get caught on the lip of the rim of
the wheels. Tighten lug nuts down even, 2 to 5 threads showing.
6. Inflate inner tire to 35 lbs. and outer to 23-25 lbs. Watch tread wear – change pressure as
necessary.
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Auto-Moly Clarification (no lead)
Tech Tip No. 88-13, 1988
Some time ago, there was a tech tip (88-03) that indicated moly-type greases contained lead.
When founding Pacific Lubricants Corporation and all the years of operating the company, all raw
materials were obtained from Climax Molybdenum Mines in Nevada. Our chemist’s analysis
assured NO lead was in the moly blended into all oils, additives and greases. It could be safely
used with the bare hands when packing bearings.
It is hoped we will not disturb the present ownership, but one of our closely guarded “Trade
Secrets” – no lead at all – meant Pacific Lubricant products didn’t settle out. Lead is HEAVY. The
viscosity of grease tends to support it, but with crankcase and differential additives or oils (AutoMoly), ours remained in suspension whereas competitor products which contained traces of lead,
sank quickly to the bottom where it did no good.
We do not know exactly what measures for quality are employed (since selling the factory in
1961), but I believe that pure Climax moly is still run through a colloid mill (at least twice) to
reduce the moly particles to talcum powder size – almost like smoke. This was another important
quality in all Pacific lubricants production.
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Replacement Inner Speedometer Cable
Tech Tip No. 89-11, 1989
Ever broken an inner speedometer cable while on the road and tried to find a replacement? You
likely know most parts stores only carry a 72 inch cable while the one needed for the Ultra Van
from the speedometer to the left front wheel is about 84 inches long.
I found the HELP series (the red packaged parts you see in many K-Mart or Wal-Mart Auto Sections) packaged by Motormite Mfg. They have a 101 inch universal cable (p/n 10104). When
available, the price is generally under $5. This cable has a new tip and crimping tool all packaged
together in the blister pack.
Instructions are on the back of the card. Basically, all you do is measure the new cable to match
the combined length of the pieces of the broken cable, cut it with a file or Vice Grips, put the new
tip on the end with the crimping tool in place around the tip, and give the tool a whack on the edge
with a hammer. This crimps the tip to the cable.
Apply a little light graphite grease to the end and along the cable as it slides into the outer casing.
Rotating the inner cable as helps get it out through the spindle and into the wheel bearing cap
drive socket.
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Spot-Facing Later Lower “A” Frames
Tech Tip No. 89-14, 1989
Later Ultra Vans have heavier lower aluminum “A” frames with the ball joints attached using 5/16–
18 bolts screwed into blind holes. These have been known to pull-out causing the “A” arm to drop
on the road.
Len Ryerson suggests a fix is to drill through the “A” frame and use SAE Grade 8 or aircraft AN
bolts and nuts to attach the ball joints. This requires spot-facing on the rounded sides of the casting which is difficult to do in the average home shop without a special spot-facer and pilot shaft
costing between $30 and $40 for each size.
Spot-facing can be done inexpensively by modifying a router bit like Vermont American 22165 to
make a 3/4” diameter face or 22169 for a 7/8” dia. These bits have a 3/16” pilot tip. The bottom was
ground flat and the corners were rounded slightly to stop any chance of starting stress cracks.
Carefully drill a 3/16” hole from the center of the open end of the three existing bolt holes until the
drill comes out through the casting. These holes are used as a pilot for the modified bit when spotfacing.
before
after
Clamp the flat side of the “A” frame casting to a drill press so the spots being faced will be parallel to the ball joint face. By moving the table around, the router bit can be positioned exactly over
the pilot hole. The speed of the drill should be around 900 r.p.m. Feed the bit very easy so the tool
will not jam when removing the aluminum.
Once spot-facing is complete, drill through the pilot holes with a 19/64” drill, then reamed out with
a 5/16” straight-sided reamer.
In addition to the Grade 8 fasteners, it is also a good idea to use a thread locker like Loctite to
make sure. Tighten the bolts to around 30 foot pounds. I used six 5/16–24 SAE bolts, four were
2.25 inches long and two were 1.25 inches.
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ALUMINUM “A” ARM CLAMPED UPSIDE DOWN ON DRILL PRESS TABLE
spot-faced
round corners
Drilled first with 3/16” drill from this end...
after spot-facing, open up with a 19/64” drill,
then ream with a 5/16” straight-side reamer
drill press table
If anyone wants to borrow the modified router bit, give me a call or drop a note in the mail (Norm
Helmkay #547).
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Magnetic Drain Plug on V8 “V” Drive
Tech Tip No. 89-25, 1989
Having recently purchased #549 V8 powered Ultra, I removed the sump housing from the Walters
“V” drive assembly to drain, clean and inspect the unit and found the magnetic drain plugs were
really doing their job. They were so loaded with very fine material that not much more could have
been held by the magnetism. The lower area had a layer of fine material also, which was washed
out and dried. A thin layer of silicone gasket material was applied and the sump was re-installed.
The gears appeared in good condition.
So when was the last time you removed and cleaned the plugs? The Ultra Manual recommends at
every 20,000 to 25,000 mile increments that the sump be drained, removed, cleaned and new oil
with 2 oz. of moly added to the refill. I sell the Moly if you can’t find it locally. $10.00 for 8
ounces including shipping.
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Shock Absorber, Front
Tech Tip No. 89-26, 1989
Need new shocks for the front of the Ultra? Try Monroe Matic Heavy Duty #3027 (the updated
version of #9027). It has a 1/2“diameter shaft and well supported base welded to the body unit.
Price is $14.00.
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Front Shock Absorber for V8 Ultras
Tech Tip No. 90-14, 1990
During a rework on the front of my 549, I noticed the end of the right front spherical rod end of
the steering linkage where it attaches to the cross relay rod was bent. It was apparent the shock
was letting the wheel and “A” frame drop down too far. The rod end was in such a tight bind that I
had to jack up the wheel assembly to remove the attach bolt of the rod end. The tie rod at the
wheel was examined, and though it was not loose, it did appear that the inner ball of the joint had
deformed the outer lip of the rod cap.
According to several previous Tech Tips, the Monroe #3027 was reported to be an original style
and type which was furnished by Ultra. Perhaps this one worked on the Corvair models, but when
they added the big steel collar to retain the spring and shock, I believe it changed the distances for
jounce and rebound. This is not a serious problem while sitting flat or travelling down the road on
all four wheels. However, it is critical when you jack up the front and let the wheels hang by the
fully extended shocks.
So! what can we do to correct the problem?
1. perform a complete inspection of the tie rods and tie rod ends (spherical bearings) and
replace as necessary.
2. if your present shocks are doing what I described, buy and install a set of Monroe #3097
shocks. They are about 11/2” shorter in body length than Monroe #3027. Also, their
extended length is 11/2” shorter, which will keep the rod ends from binding while hanging
by the shock. Also, replace the rubber bumper that fits over the stem of the shock.
1992 NOTE: These bumpers are available from Clark’s Corvair P/N C109R at $12.95 a pair.
Another critical factor of the original #3027 shock is the distance from the top of the shock body
to the end of the shaft when the Ultra is on all four wheels is about 21/2” (jounce distance). This is
without the above mentioned rubber bumper installed. A good dip or a chuck hole will bottom out
the shock, which can lead to future failure of the aluminum support casting at the top of the wheel
well.
Enough said! better check yours.
Note: Monroe #5809 (gas shock) is also an acceptable replacement.
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Steering & Alignment
Heavy Duty Tie Rod Ends – a source of tie rod ends
Special Bolts – Bell Crank Pivot – pivot bolt replacement details for Ultras #411 and later
Bellcrank Modification Kit – for Ultras before #411
Wheel Alignment – recommended camber, caster, and toe-in for Ultras
Installing Steel Bellcranks – a detailed installation procedure for bellcranks
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Heavy Duty Tie Rod Ends
Tech Tip No. 81-09, 1981
The Spherco Rod End Assemblies P/N TR-7 or TR7N can be replaced with much stronger ends P/
N AR-7 or AR-7N (N suffix is a grease fitting).
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Special Bolts – Bell Crank Pivot
Tech Tip No. 82-09, 1982
Ultra Coaches #411 and up, Item 15 – Bolt, Shoulder – Precision Ground: 1/2” diameter, shoulder
length 4.500”, thread 3/8–16.
1992 NOTE: These bolts are available through aircraft supply houses. The current price is about
$10.00 each.
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Bellcrank Modification Kit
Tech Tip No. 82-10, 1982
For coaches before #411; kits with plates and shoulder bolts as shown on page 10-34 were made
available by Len Ryerson. Bellcranks had to be reworked locally. New bellcrank bushings are not
part of the kit and must be obtained or made locally. A step by step modification procedure is
detailed in the Ultra Coach Manual pages 10-35 through 10-40.
1992 NOTE: These kits are no longer available.
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Wheel Alignment
Tech Tip No. 88-23, 1988
I think the consensus on alignment has been reached as being “0” camber front and rear (wheels
straight up and down), zero to 1/16th toe-in front and rear, and a real change from Ultra’s way...try
up to 6° positive caster. Of all the things I’ve done to help straight line tracking, high caster helped
the most. The trade-off is increased steering effort at parking speeds.
I think Bob Ackerman (#458) has done more work on alignment than most and he has kindly “volunteered” to accept phone calls for help/advice on the subject. After all, part of steering nomenclature is named for him...the Ackerman effect.
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155
Installing Steel Bellcranks
Tech Tip No. 89-13, 1989
Before beginning, a caution, this is not a “couple-of-hours” job.
You should have two new tie rod ends and one pitman arm bearing to install, before beginning.
Aircraft quality equivalents to Spherco bearings already installed, are made by Heim and Aurora.
They are listed in the Aircraft Spruce & Specialty Catalog, pages 106-108, 1-800-824-1930.
Another possible source is Wicks Aircraft Supply, 1-800-221-9425.
Spherco
Heim
Aurora
Rod End Regular
TR-7
HF-7
MG-7
Rod End Extra Capacity
AR-7N
HFX-7
AG-7Z
Pitman Arm Bearing
SBG-6S
LHA-6
Qty.
2
1
The “Extra Capacity” end has an outer shell of SAE 4130 Steel, heat treated to 175,000 PSI. It is
better suited to the Ultra steering application, considering strains imposed on the steering system
at near zero speeds with wider tires installed.
Tools needed:
Wrenches – 1/2” and 9/16” open/box end
Allen Keys – 1/4” across the flats and 6-32 screw
Thin wall socket to press out pitman arm bearing
Vise or press
23/ ” and #3 drills,
64
1/ –28 and 6-32 taps
4
3/ ” straight side reamer
8
Before starting, a few steel left hand bellcranks have the grease hole on the back, making it hard to
grease. This type should be re-drilled at a point bisecting the angle of the arms, opposite the existing hole. Use a #3 drill and 1/4–28 tap. Clean all the chips out before pressing in the needle bearings. Put grease fittings in both holes. The edge of the spherical pitman bearing hole is already
tapped for a 6-32 set screw. Run a 6-32 tap through the hole just to make sure its clean.
Press two large and one small needle bearing into each bellcrank and center the pitman arm bearing in the left bellcrank so the set screw when tightened is in the grove around the outside of the
bearing.
Remove the old bellcranks as described in the Ultra Manual, Section 10. If being fitted to hull
prior to #411, the bellcrank attachment must be changed as outlined in the Ultra Manual Section
10, pages 38 and 39. If the crossover shaft has not been modified, this is the time to do it (see Ultra
156
Manual Section 10, pages 44 & 45).
The Ultra Manual shows all crossover shaft bolt holes as 5/16”. The steel bellcranks need a 3/8”
bolt, so the inner bellcrank attach holes must enlarged to 19/64” and reamed to 3/8”. Be sure the new
bolts are Grade 8 quality with unthreaded shoulder long enough to extend right through the needle
bearing. Move the crossover shaft from side to side and if the bolt head or nut binds on the hull
skin, relieve the area slightly. Be sure to grease the joints on both sides.
Dust shields over the tie rod openings prevent dirt, water and mice from getting into the hull.
Watch for a Tech Tip about how to make these dust covers.
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Wheels, Tires, Brakes
Tire Saver – this simple device will help you judge your distance from a curb
Extra Parking Brake – make your Ultra an immovable object
Radial Tires – proper tire rotation for radial tires
Nice Wheel Covers (1969 Mustang) – these hubcaps not only look good but stay on the wheel
Increased Tire and Fuel Mileage – tire inflation tip
Rusting Brake Lines – check for rusty brake lines and update that master cylinder
Huskier Radial Tires – a source for heavy duty tires
Brakes – preventive maintenance tips
Brakes, Service and Care – more preventive maintenance tips
Brakes – Emergency Brake Handle Assembly – a source for this part
Brakes – Rear – V8’s – if you hear a dragging or scraping noise, check for this cause
Tires for Ultra Vans – tire recommendations
Tires for the Ultra – updated tire recommendations
Update – Tires for the Ultra – further updated tire recommendations
Hydraulic Brake Lines – word of warning about original brake lines
Brake Line and Heater Corrosion – check this area for two potential hazards
Update Again – Tires for the Ultra – even more tire recommendation updates
Speed Rating of Tires –description and table of speed ratings
Proper Torque for Wheel Lug Nuts – aluminum wheels require proper lug nuts and torquing
Tire Repair Tool – Fix It On The Road – this tubeless tire kit really works
Disc Brakes – Early Ultra 4 Stud Hubs – a source for a disc brake conversion kit
Disc Brakes for Corvair 5 Stud Hubs – a 4 wheel disc brake conversion has been done on an Ultra
Hydraulic Brake Lines – zinc-coated Bundyflex brakes lines are available
Tire Update for Ultras – more tire recommendations
Brakes – Semi-Metallic & Brake Drums – a source of shoes and drums
Rear Disc Brake Puzzle – V8 – Corvette fixed caliper rear disc brakes can be troublesome
Tire Update to Tip 89-18 (V8 Ultra) – updated tire recommendation for V8 Ultras
Parking Brake Cable Removal – procedure for using aircraft type host clamps for emergencies
V8 Ultra Power Brakes – several problems and cures for V8 brakes
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Tire Saver
Tech Tip No. 69-12, 1969
As Ultra Vans are 2 feet wider than cars, an excellent idea to help park alongside curbs (get close
and not scuff the sidewalls) is to install “Curb Scrapers or Feelers” They should be mounted ahead
of each wheel on the curb side at front and back. The clamps do not hold for long...so drill a hole
and bolt them on. They can help save sidewall damage by enabling the driver to judge a safe clearance.
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159
Extra Parking Brake
Tech Tip No. 70-06, 1970
When parking on a steep grade or anyplace you are afraid the parking brake might not hold, you
can insert a special wood stick between the regular brake pedal and the underside of the coffee
bar. Find a strong wood slat about 1/2” by 13/4”. Cut to an overall length of plus or minus 151/4”
(length may vary with each Ultra Van). Round one end and cut a fishtail in the other end.
To Use: Step hard on the brake pedal, put the fishtail end of the stick on the brake pedal and push
the rounded end under the dash to hold the pedal down securely. Instant 4 wheel brakes. Your
Ultra Van is now an immovable object.
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160
Radial Tires
Tech Tip No. 73-02, 1973
To owners with steel belted radial tires: don’t cross the tires when rotating them. Tire travel on the
road causes a certain set to take place on the radial cords. Reversing the direction of the tire,
which happens when they are switched from one side to the other causes the set to reverse which
can loosen the cords and even cause a rupture. They should only be exchanged front to rear or rear
to front. To avoid mix-ups, the Rubber Mfg. Association recommends that you put a neat little
arrow on the wheel rim near the tire to show the direction of rotation.
1992 NOTE: This caution on tire rotation has now been rescinded by most radial tire manufacturers.
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161
Nice Wheel Covers (1969 Mustang)
Tech Tip No. 73-08, 1973
The 1969 Mustang hub caps are a very nice addition to the Ultra Van, and one of their other virtues is they stay on the wheel better than any others I have come across.
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162
Increased Tire and Fuel Mileage
Tech Tip No. 79-13, 1979
Make sure before each trip your tires are equally inflated, side to side, and with proper air pressure
all around. “Proper” means based on load more than the manufacturer’s specifications. We prefer
the tires be a few pounds over-inflated, for better gas mileage and tire life rather than a few pounds
under. Always check inflation before driving when the tires are cool, never after driving even a
block.
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163
Rusting Brake Lines
Tech Tip No. 80-01, 1980
In the tech sessions at Casa Granda we covered the seriousness of the aging and rusting hydraulic
brake lines. The least we can do is run an oily cloth over them during our routine maintenance
checks.
Fred Granville (#270) had a brake line rust right through, the one going to the right front wheel.
Luckily it happened in his own yard so he was able to fix it at home. While replacing rusty brake
lines, it is a good time to also convert to a dual master brake cylinder system set-up.
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164
Huskier Radial Tires
Author: Hank Yakel #391
Tech Tip No. 80-16, 1980
Michelin has a heavy duty tire 185SR-14 XZX to handle 1540 pounds per wheel at 40 pounds
pressure. The tire has 2 plies of rayon and 2 steel belts. The sidewalls are 2 ply rayon. Another tire
with the same specs is the German made Continental 185-14 reinforced radial. These tires are not
so big so they keep the rear-end ratio the same and give your engine a break.
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165
Brakes
Tech Tip No. 81-01, 1981
Examine all lines and wheel areas for any leaks of brake fluid, and wear marks on the lines which
might become areas for leakage. The long flexible rubber line to the front wheel brake cylinders is
no longer available. Shorter lines are available, but an extension must be made to the end of the
steel line at the wall in the wheel well to accommodate this shorter flex line.
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166
Brakes, Service and Care
Tech Tip No. 81-25, 1981
Some ideas to consider for brake preventive maintenance:
Flexible brake hoses – coat with “Armorall” to resist cracking. Let it dry between coats.
Steel Brake Lines – Under the floor boards and between the wheel wells. Examine for rust and
abrasion. Clean, inspect, paint or treat with WD-40.
Brake Mechanisms In Wheels – A much neglected service area. Remove wheels and drums, blow
out all dust and debris. Blow away from face so as not to breath in asbestos dust. Carefully apply
Lubriplate to all rubbing surfaces and pivots.
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Brakes – Emergency Brake Handle Assembly
Tech Tip No. 83-01, 1983
The emergency brake handle assembly is from a 1963 Ford Econoline truck.
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168
Brakes – Rear – V8’s
Tech Tip No. 83-02, 1983
Reference Disc Brake Caliper Mounting Bolts, Item 20, DWG 11Q
A dragging or scraping noise in the rear brake area after repairs the brakes can be caused by the
caliper bracket attach bolts being too long which causes the end(s) to rub on the disc, mostly on
turns. The bolts are 7/16–20 x 11/8 grade 8 with thick lock washers. Causes can be either a thin or
missing lock washer or incorrect bolt length. If the bolt is too long, remove and cut-off about 1/
8“and re-install.
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169
Tires for Ultra Vans
Tech Tip No. 85-12, 1985
There are dozens of makes and sizes of tires that could be used on the Ultra and everyone has their
favorite. Here are three makes I consider premium tires, so you might consider them for your next
tire purchase. Also, the rolling diameter is adequate to provide a match-up with the Corvair
engine, some V8s and both 3.55 and 3.89 rear axle ratios.
Chart superseded by Tip 85-15 (the outdated chart is not shown here).
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170
Tires for the Ultra
Tech Tip No. 85-15, 1985
Discard the chart in Tip 85-12 and insert this revision. Contact your local distributor if you need to
know Speed Ratings and Revolutions Per Mile for a particular tire. This new chart is a result of a
fellow Ultra member advising me that “SR” does not mean “Reinforced”. Thanks Walt.
Ply
Load Load Capy.
Rating Range
@ PSI
Make
Size
Continental
185R14
6 ply
tubeless
C
1750 lbs at tread: 5 ply (2 rayon,
50 PSI
2 steel, 1 rayon)
(cold)
sidewall: 2 ply rayon
radial type
Continental
#RS771
185R14
6 ply
tubeless
C
1710 lbs at
55 PSI
(cold)
same as above
radial type
Continental
#RS321
195R14
6 ply
tubeless
C
1750 lbs.
at 55 PSI
(cold)
tread: 6 ply (2 rayon,
4 steel)
radial type
Michelin 185SR14* 6 ply
model XSX
tubeless
C
1450 lbs.
at 35 PSI
(cold)
tread: 4 ply (2 rayon, *not reinforced
2 steel)
Michelin 185SR14* 6 ply
model XSX
tubeless
“reinforced”
C
1540 lbs.
at 40 PSI
(cold)
tread: 4 ply (2 rayon,
2 steel)
Michelin
model XSX
C
185R14*
6 ply
(note “S” tubeless
missing)
Ply Construction
Remarks
radial type
*verify that
word “reinforced” is
molded in sidewall of tire
radial type
55 PSI
2 steel)
*”S” is actually
(cold)
not used
Check out the updates to this chart (Tech Tip 86-17, Tech Tip 87-02, and Tech Tip 89-18).
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171
Update – Tires for the Ultra
Tech Tip No. 86-17, 1986
This is an update to Tech Tip 85-15 from Winter 85 Newsletter
Make the following changes to Tech Tip 85-15:
ADD: the word “Transport” to Continental #RS771 in 1st column
Also, for the same tire noted above, under the column headed Ply Construction...
ADD: “Except has one nylon instead of one rayon”
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172
Hydraulic Brake Lines
Tech Tip No. 86-24, 1986
If your brake lines are original, they are at least 15 years old. They were not stainless. They have
RUSTED. Several members agree, when your brake pedal goes to the floor, it is a source of considerable excitement. You may contemplate other possibilities. Stainless steel lines are available,
if you find a source, don’t keep it a secret.
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173
Brake Line and Heater Corrosion
Author: Tom Silvey #410
Tech Tip No. 86-35, 1986
The propane heater in #410 has an intake and exhaust system with co-axial tubing as in most
motorhomes. The way these tubes are assembled and attached allows water running down the side
of the coach to rust the inside of the heater but the slip joints let the water/snow leak down onto
the brake line in the wall to the rear brakes, especially if the right side of the coach is low or if the
wind is from the left.
I was appalled at the rusty condition of the brake line back of the heater. The heater and attaching
tubes were also badly rusted.
Heater removal involves drilling out several pop-rivets, but it’s worth the trouble in order to
inspect this critical area and correct two potential hazards to one’s health – no brakes and heater
exhaust fumes inside the coach. I tape over the outside heater opening when not in use to keep the
weather out. A planned fix is a water shedding exterior baffle.
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174
Update Again – Tires for the Ultra
Tech Tip No. 87-02, 1987
This is an update to Tech Tip 85-15.
Ply
Load Load Capy.
Rating Range
@ PSI
Make
Size
Michelin
model MXL
205/
70R14
6 ply
tubeless
C
40 PSI
2 steel)
(cold)
Armstrong
model SD
200
700-14 LT
6 ply
tubeless
C
1310 lbs at tread: 4 ply nylon
for lighter
45 PSI
sidewall: 4 ply nylon Corvair Ultras
(cold)
26” diameter
Ply Construction
Remarks
low profile
wider tread
Check out an update to this chart (Tech Tip 89-18).
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175
Speed Rating of Tires
Tech Tip No. 87-04, 1987
Speed rating tells you more about a tire than how fast it can go!
Every tire sold in Europe carries a speed rating on it’s side wall. Speed ratings were established by
the European Tire & Rim Technical Organization to ensure that tires on a vehicle will perform
safely at the vehicle’s top speed.
In Europe, if your vehicle is capable of speeds over 130 MPH, then you’re required to fit tires
rated for that speed.
Below is a listing of 15 commonly used speed ratings:
F = 50 MPH
L = 75 MPH
Q = 100 MPH
U = 124 MPH
G = 56 MPH
M = 81 MPH
R = 106 MPH
V = 130 MPH
J = 62 MPH
N = 87 MPH
S = 112 MPH
Z = 150 MPH
K = 68 MPH
P = 93 MPH
T = 118 MPH
Do we need speed ratings in the U.S.? With our 55 MPH and 65 MPH speed limit in some areas,
you won’t find many places where you can maintain a constant speed of 130 MPH without
becoming acquainted with the law.
So what purposes do speed ratings serve in the U.S.? The ability to withstand higher sustained
speeds is only one characteristic of a performance tire, and not necessarily the most important
one. Speed ratings reflect all the performance features needed to operate a vehicle at its top speed,
including heat resistance, traction and handling.
When comparing two tires of the same size, the tire with the higher speed rating will run cooler
and have better traction and handling. Some advantages of performance tires are: less likely to
skid in rain, better cornering, road holding and braking. You can improve braking performance by
10 to 15% by replacing 75 series tires with low profile 60 or 70 series tires.
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176
Proper Torque for Wheel Lug Nuts
Tech Tip No. 87-05, 1987
Custom wheels, primarily the aluminum type, require special steel, chrome plated lug nuts. These
are of different sizes, types and lengths.
The reason for the proper torquing of the lug nuts is because unlike a steel dished wheel, the aluminum wheel does not compress the dish/spider area when the lug nuts are tightened down. If you
over-torque or tighten them too much, the stud will likely twist off the wheel hub.
Most manufacturers recommend a torque setting of 45 to 55 ft. pounds depending on the wheel
type and application. Follow the manufacturer’s recommended torque settings.
After initial torquing, drive at least 25 miles and recheck the torque setting. Recheck every 2,000
to 5,000 miles.
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177
Tire Repair Tool – Fix It On The Road
Tech Tip No. 87-20, 1987
Many tools have been offered to the public for repairing tubeless tires, but one I have is a quality
tool that really works. I have had one of these for about 15 years and have used it twice with complete success. NAPA auto parts stores sold these at one time and perhaps still do.
The tool is called: Stop & Go Tubeless Tire Plug Gun Kit
Kit includes:
Crank Handle Plug Gun
Drill/Probe tool
scissors
lubricant
and quantity 50 of 3/8” diameter plugs
Made by:
STOP & GO INTERNATIONAL
P.O. Box 544,
Wheeling, IL 60090
1-800-524-3120
in OHIO 1-800-524-4357
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Disc Brakes – Early Ultra 4 Stud Hubs
Tech Tip No. 88-04, 1988
At the last two Corvair mini Conventions, a vendor displayed a disc brake conversion kit for the
1960-64 Corvair front wheel assembly. Two friends have installed this bolt-on kit and are really
satisfied with it. The kit is for four stud hubs and includes new rotors, brake pads, hoses and seals.
Re-built calipers, mounting plates and hardware are included. This should work excellent on an
early Ultra with the four stud hubs – hummm?
Contact: D. Carters Brakes, 8380 Hamilton Way, Stockton, CA
Phone: 209-478-1585
Price: $475.00 ($100 less with used rotors when available)
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179
Disc Brakes for Corvair 5 Stud Hubs
Tech Tip No. 88-10, 1988
A non-club UV owner in Miami has a Corvair coach that he converted to 4 wheel disc brakes
using GM parts. The owner is a master mechanic and says the job was “not too bad”. If enough
interest, I’ll get more details.
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180
Hydraulic Brake Lines
Tech Tip No. 88-19, 1988
Original equipment Bundyflex tubing is available with Z-Coat zinc coating for substantially
longer life, especially in salt air climate and in areas where salt is used to melt snow and ice on
highways. Listed below are the “Z” (zinc) coated hydraulic brake lines now used as original
equipment on all Ford and GM cars as of the 1985 model year.
Availability might be a drag, but if the “General” thought it was worth while, ‘nuff said. All of the
hard lines in the Ultra can be replaced with pre-made lengths. The advantage is no “field” flares,
and “off-the-shelf” parts. It worked on #366. I have no quarrel with stainless steel lines, but it is
hard to work with and the cost factor....whew, 3 bucks a foot!
Contact EVERCO General Offices, 4600 W. Touhy Ave., Lincolnwood, IL 60646 for name of
local supplier. This chart is from the EVERCO catalog #BB86.
Part Numbers
Length
3/ ”
16
OD (brown)
1/ ”
4
OD (black)
8 inches
BZ308
BZ408
12 inches
BZ312
BZ412
20 inches
BZ320
BZ420
30 inches
BZ330
BZ430
40 inches
BZ340
BZ440
51 inches
BZ351
BZ451
60 inches
BZ360
BZ460
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Tire Update for Ultras
Tech Tip No. 89-18, 1989
Update Tech Tip 87-02 with the following:
1. Michelin “X” 185R-14X, Load Rating C, Ply Rated 6
Load: (Single) - 1710 lbs a 55 PSI cold
Tread: 2 Rayon & 2 Steel
Sidewall: 2 Rayon
Available from Discount Tire at $68.00
2. Michelin “X” (XCA) 205/75R14 Ply rated 8
Load: (Single) - 2270 lbs at 65 PSI cold
Tread and sidewall not known, check with dealer
Available: Discount Tire
NOTE: See update to this tip.
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182
Brakes – Semi-Metallic & Brake Drums
Tech Tip No. 89-19, 1989
When replacing worn out brake shoes, try a set of Semi-Metallic #BS1029 from your local Midas
Dealer.
The part number is for 1970-72 Chevelle brakes.
It should also be noted, 1970-72 Chevelle front brake drums can be installed on the Ultra
(Corvair) rear.
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183
Rear Disc Brake Puzzle – V8
Tech Tip No. 89-22, 1989
In an “ol’ 547 Saga” report, we mentioned stainless steel calipers were installed. On advice from
the Ultra manual (Section 11-18), the rotors were machined to clean up some scoring and rust
pits. This machining caused a very elusive brake problem over the next eight months.
The V8s have Corvette fixed caliper rear disc brakes which can be very troublesome when not
understood. There are two types of disc calipers: floating and fixed. Floating types usually have
one big piston without a return spring. In this type, a slight rotor wobble is a benefit as the pad is
pushed back on the first disc rotation after releasing the brake.
A fixed caliper has opposing pistons and light springs behind the piston pushing the pad against
the rotor, not enough to drag or wear but enough to provide very quick acting brakes as the piston
only has to move a few thousands. If the rotor wobbles at all, this movement may pull air past the
seal (sharp edge to the pressure) without leaking fluid.
In March 1988, going to Florida the brakes seemed to work fine. In hard stop situations the front
wheels seemed to lock easily. The interior was redone over the winter, adding more weight than
one likes to admit. At this time, brake deterioration was apparent but was assumed to be caused by
the extra 800 pounds added over the front wheels.
At the New Jersey rally in July, the problem was discussed with several people. The first idea was
a pedal linkage restriction peculiar to the last few coaches with a sideways mounted brake booster.
The offending bracket was cut out to allow more piston travel, but it didn’t fix it. Another person
reasoned, with an ten inch brake booster, it should be possible to lock all four wheels anytime.
Some testing was done on the way home. Trying hard as possible, only the front end could be
skidded. Also, after just two hard slow downs from high speed (60 to 30) the front brakes faded so
badly we stopped testing and crept home at very low speed.
Prior to the 1988 National, the front linings were replaced in under 6,000 miles as they had overheating cracks. The brakes were bled all around and a surprise, again there was air in the rear calipers.
A tip-off had been ignored. While shifting into DRIVE, with the brakes on full and engine at fast
idle, the coach would lurched forward slightly because of poor rear brakes. With the rear brakes
working right, the lurch was gone and all the wheels could be skidded.
Before reaching Louisiana the trouble was back. Bleeding the rear brakes provided temporary
relief. Was there a defect with the new calipers? On the way home we visited the supplier to have
them checked. They were OK, but he reminded me of the air pumping problem caused by a wobbling rotor which was outlined in some old Corvette and brake industry magazines.**
Originally, the rotors were riveted to the hub and ground together to make it true. On 547 the
184
rotors were separated from the hub to be turned which caused the wobble. The fix was to mount
the disc and grind them “in-place”. A new easier fix is tapered shims between the disc and hub.
** References are “Vette Magazine” April/May 1980 and Babcock “Brake & Front End” Magazine, November 1980. Write Norm Helmkay for copies.
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185
Tire Update to Tip 89-18 (V8 Ultra)
Tech Tip No. 89-23, 1989
While shopping around for a tire for the rear of the V8 Ultra Van that I recently purchased (549), a
Discount Tire manager recommended the following tire: The Corvette rear axle in my unit is
3.55:1 and this tire is 27” in diameter (unloaded) so this allows the 307 engine to keep its RPM in
a good power range and not lugging at all. Good engine cooling is a side benefit of this, by turning
the fan and water pump at a little higher speed when climbing those hills.
The tire has an open block tread and good in all weather driving conditions.
Make: Goodyear Wrangler ST
Price: $112.00 (Discount Tire)
Size: Lt215/75R15
Tread: 4 plies Polyester cord plus 2 steel cord
Sidewall: 2 plies Polyester cord
Load Rating: Max. load single, 2095 lbs at 45 PSI cold
Mounted Size: (unloaded) 27” diameter (loaded, edge of rim to ground at 45 PSI is 47/8”)
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186
Parking Brake Cable Removal
Tech Tip No. 90-05, 1990
When first hearing this idea at a tech session, I took it for granted everyone carried a selection of
aircraft type hose clamps for emergencies. They can be screwed together to make almost any size
clamp you need.
After searching through many newsletters and manuals, I found no reference on how to use these
clamps to unlatch the locking ears on cable ends, as they pass through the mounting bracket hole
of the brake back plate.
Unscrew the hose clamp all the way so the strap can be wrapped around the locking ears on the
cable end. The tail of the clamp is put back of the screw sleeve with the edge of the strap just back
of the end of the locking ears that are holding the cable in the hole. As the screw is tightened, the
tips of the ears compress to let the cable slip out of the hole. Easy eh!
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V8 Ultra Power Brakes
Tech Tip No. 90-13, 1990
The first thing that comes to mind when you hear someone talk about V8 power brakes is the front
wheels will lock up if you are on loose dirt, gravel or in icy road conditions. That is correct, but it
can be remedied. First, though, let’s do a little inspection work.
I have noticed on my own #549 and have heard others say that at time they have had both feet on
the brake pedal trying to stop their Ultra Van. There are many things that would contribute to that,
but I only want to make you aware of a a couple of items.
First, with a flashlight, verify that the power brake pedal linkage is not bottoming out at each of
the connection points from the pedal to the power diaphragm (4 places). The place to look is
where an arm fits between two tabs of the next link. The arm can bottom out in the bottom of the
link. Depress the pedal fully to view the link points. My #549 was bottoming out at three of the
links and where the power diaphragm plunger pin attaches. In that situation, my pedal only moved
the plunger in the master cylinder 3/4” (in my master cylinder, the full stroke is 17/8”) See P/N at
end of Tip. The power diaphragm has a full stroke of 13/8”. After rework of my pedal linkage, I
can now get the full 13/8” stroke of the diaphragm.
Second, during your inspection, verify the “L” shaped link from the diaphragm plunger does not
bottom out on the aluminum support structure (notch out the support as necessary). I had to cut
out a 1/2” x 3/8” notch in my structure.
The Ultra Manual Section 11, page 11-26, shows a drawing (DWG: 11-AK) that is not correct for
the Ultra Vans with the power booster. It indicates the primary section is for the front brakes. The
GM Corvette service manual and others I have, in all cases use the primary section (that nearest
the power diaphragm) for the rear brakes. The rear brake line on #549 was installed as per the GM
manual.
Reference: #549 has a dual master cylinder, casting 5468115-1 on the bottom. The cylinder bore
is 11/8” and it is attached to a 10” Delco Morraine vacuum diaphragm booster. It looks like a factory installation.
Repair kit for this master cylinder is Bendix P/N 22670. Note: Be sure not to discard any parts
from your master cylinder until you verify what is in the kit.
So there you are, a couple of goodies to check on. Refer to your GM manual for other items to
check on for front wheel lock up.
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Power Plants – General
Aircraft Engine Oil for Corvairs – engine oil suggestion
Auto-Moly Lubricants – the benefits of molybdenum additives
Adding Engine Oil – when to add oil
Hydraulic Valve Lifters – easy tip to keep your lifters in shape
“Flush It” – a paper on Oils in Corvairs – everything you ever wanted to know about engine oil
Baffling Loss of Power – an unlikely place to check if you’re losing power
Magnetic Oil Drain Plug – why you need one of these plugs
Poor Man’s Dwell Meter – a volt-ohm meter can be calibrated for dwell measurements
Octane Boosters – the lowdown on octane boosters
Auto-Moly Update – updated source of moly additives
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189
Aircraft Engine Oil for Corvairs
Author: Bryant Phillips #280
Tech Tip No. 69-01, 1969
A good oil for the air-cooled Ultra Van Corvair engine is Aeroshell W-65 which can be obtained at
any small private airport. It is reasonably priced in case lots of 12 or more.
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Auto-Moly Lubricants
Tech Tip No. 70-17, 1970
Engine crankcase additives containing automotive molybdenum (MOS2) certainly reduce cylinder wall and camshaft wear. This is also true for gears and other parts if Moly-Seal is used in the
automatic transmission. An 8 oz. can of each, correctly added, plates out on friction surfaces,
remaining there even after several oil changes. Extra valuable is Moly-Grease in the gun when
lubing your steering assembly. Steering becomes easier and wear is reduced. Vehicles normally
need lube jobs only 1/2 as often using moly-rich grease; front and rear wheel bearings once properly packed, seldom require a second servicing. Gear-Moly in the differential reduces gear wear
and howl. Let’s hasten to say (before anyone thinks we are advertising) I sold the Pacific Lubricants Company, lock, stock and barrel almost 10 years ago (1961) and have no interest whatsoever
in promoting it’s business now. Auto-Moly products are available from the J.C. Whitney catalog
and independent dealers, for those desiring.
Check out the update to this article.
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191
Adding Engine Oil
Tech Tip No. 72-07, 1972
When adding oil to your engine, it is a good idea to add it when the engine is hot. Readings on the
dip stick vary between hot and cold.
After adding oil, give it time to trickle down into the oil pan before taking a new reading. Do not
overfill, it is better to be 1/8 inch below the full mark than above it.
Transmission oil should also be checked only after the engine is warmed up. It, unlike the engine,
must be checked with the engine running and the shift lever in neutral.
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Hydraulic Valve Lifters
Tech Tip No. 72-08, 1972
If your engine stands for long periods of time unused, we recommend that you start the engine
every two or three days and let it idle for five or ten minutes. This will serve two purposes. It will
keep the valve lifters from draining down and causing a valve clatter when you start up and it will
keep your batteries charged.
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“Flush It” – a paper on Oils in Corvairs
Tech Tip No. 74-01, 1974
ULTRA BULL(etin) “FLUSH IT” by Fred Leary
The original gasoline engines had the bearings and other “works” out in the open and the operator
applied a squirt of oil now and then. Quickly, it was observed that the system was bad – so some
inventor built a box around the machinery, poured in a few quarts, added a pump and the problem
was solved – almost.
Exactly five minutes after the wet sump system was born, the big argument about what to put in,
and how often to change it, was in full swing. Seventy-five years later, we’re still at it. Some popular quotes – “straight oil – no additives”, “additive oils plus one or more special additives”,
“change oil often”, “don’t change at all – just add”, “oil doesn’t wear out”, etc. Add your own.
Let’s hop on that last one first. It seems well established that oil really doesn’t wear out - it merely
picks up a collection of goodies like water, acid, fuel dilution, dirt, metal particles, sludge and new
oxides, etc. formed under conditions of high temperature and severe agitation. Also, any modern
oil worth the trip home has at least a half dozen special “additives” already in the can, and, these
additives in normal “line of duty” do wear out.
A good filter, regularly changed does a job on solid particles and sludge. The remaining liquid and
chemical contaminants are the real villains. They generally stay put and get worse with mileage
and/or time alone.
How often should we change oil? Ten true experts give at least ten different answers – and the
writer is not an expert. Some years ago, we were involved in teaching and writing on this subject
and had available oil testing equipment. Testing new oils was some fun, but rather early it seemed
a good idea to test samples of DRAINED oil from several sources. Results – some samples
drained after 2,000 miles of continuous driving were still O.K. But, in short trip service, some
samples were completely “shot” in 500 miles. A 10W Nothing grade.
The best advice we have ever received was from a prominent Detroit engineer speaking at an
S.A.E. Conference. He gave no pat answer either, but stated: “The difference between a new factory engine and the JUNK YARD is 3 OUNCES OF METAL” (maybe 2 ounces for the smaller
Corvair).
Our reaction to this bit of enlightenment was to insist that good oil (at any price) is a real bargain.
Our practice is to change oil on mileage (if miles are put on quickly); time (2 months maximum);
type of driving (short trips/change often); or, if for any reason, it seems like a good idea. We probably throw away some pretty good oil at times and plan to keep right on doing it. The filter is
changed EACH TIME the oil is changed. This is a positive recommendation. Beware of people
(includes some factories) who say “change at 6,000 miles and replace the filter each SECOND oil
change.” They will probably lie about other things, too.
194
Assume we drive the Ultra 10,000 miles a year. Is 8¢ a mile a reasonable total expense figure? If
so, $800 is the tab. If we never change oil, there is not much saving. Change six times, and the
annual cost is $835, and a very happy engine.
What KIND of oil for the Corvair?
Any established brand by a leading company which meets current car manufacturer’s specifications (label on can).
Single or multi-viscosity? We definitely favor 10W-40 in preference to a single grade. The opposition will quickly point out that the 10W feature is needed only in cold weather. Partly true. But
when we start and warm up the engine even at 95 °F air temperature, this is relatively “ice cold” to
the Corvair. The multi-grade gets “on the job” quickly and circulates freely at all times. Especially
good for those hydraulic valve lifters and not bad for cylinders, rings, and valve stems either.
Our experience to date has covered two Corvairs driven 128,000 and 122,000 miles with multigrade oils, frequently changed. Zero wear on shaft and bearings, maximum 0.003” on cylinders.
New rings, a valve job, and they were sold in top condition. Can’t see room for improvement with
trick additives, or special filters. We don’t necessarily disapprove of the special deals – if your pet
recipe works for you, stick with it.
The options:
a. Single grade SAE 30 or 40. O.K. if you insist.
b. Multi 20W-40. Our actual top choice. Hard to find.
c. Straight oils, no additives. Wouldn’t touch with an 11 ft. pole.
d. 20W-50. Not generally needed. Probably won’t hurt.
e. Racing oils. If your engine operated hot enough to need these, your in trouble. Fix.
The procedure:
Point #1 - Your friendly neighborhood service station does not have either the equipment or
ability to change oil and filter correctly. A couple of tools, a container, a little good clean fun
and the job is just right for the do–it–yourselfer.
Proceed thus:
1. Locate a sloping drive (level will NOT do) and point Ultra down hill. Steeper the better –
within reason. The Corvair engine has a long flat oil pan with the drain plug at the front.
(Service station struck out already).
2. Engine should be warm. Run if necessary. Multi-grade oils drain well – oil does not have to
be hot enough to produce third degree burns on hand. Minor feature, but handy.
195
3. Place container, remove plug and watch the fun. Note color of oil, check body on oily hand
and say, “Should have done this last month”.
4. Oil mostly drained. Just a drip (nothing personal).
5. Start engine – repeat START ENGINE, run at idling speed for 15 seconds or until the red
light comes on. Look at the drain again and say, “Where did all that ‘extra’ oil come from?
Take a break and let the oil drain and engine cool. (Club soda with proper “additive” suggested).
6. Hold filter and remove the 1/2” nut at the top. Remove filter and note it is only about 2/3 full
of oil. No mess – no spill. One of the reasons we ran the engine with “no oil”. If you still
have the extra belts and filter mounted “sideways”, shame on you. Fix.
7. Install new filter. Use new seal washer on stud. Tighten “snug” but not too tight. Book says
use a torque wrench. Forget it.
8. Replace drain plug. Again - not too tight. Note: If a “hired hand” did the last – or any other
– oil change, check plug and oil pan for stripped threads. Those strong boys have BIG
wrenches.
9. Wrap a big cleaning rag around oil filter. (Stations never do... they love to oil the fan belt,
et. al.). Pour in the proper amount of favorite lube.
10. Run engine. Check filter for leaks. Warm it up well.
11. Tighten filter nut, if necessary. Heat softens the rubber gasket, so a second check is
advised.
12. Check oil level on dip stick. Probably low. (We really drained it this time.) Stay under the
F mark. Corvairs like to run about the mid-point between L and F.
13. Finished. Took longer to explain it than to do it. Sorry about that.
14. Repeat often. If reasons aren’t fully acceptable, develop your own.
The negative side:
Lack of oil (and filter) change has a pattern which we see often in Corvairs brought in for “service” in the last of the ninth inning.
a. One or more valve lifters “hang up” or leak excessively. Much noise. Owner hopes it will
go away. It doesn’t.
b. Lifter and camshaft continue a percussion act until metal failure occurs.
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c. Ruined cam lobe and lifter face. Metal chips well distributed through system.
d. New camshaft costs only about $25.00. To replace same, however is something else.
Remove entire transmission, differential, all accessories, completely disassemble the
engine. The camshaft is the very last olive out of the jar. Parts scattered over 1 1/2 square
block area.
e. Replace camshaft, lifters and all other parts damaged or worn. If you can find a competent
Corvair man, he shouldn’t charge over $400.00 for the whole operation.
f. Look up the individual who “doesn’t believe” in frequent oil changes or is opposed to
“wasting” too much oil. Conduct friendly discussion and notify his relatives of intended
action.
It isn’t always the valve lifter/camshaft routine. Piston rings especially the top one operate in a
rather hostile situation with limited lubrication. Hard carbon (mostly gum from gasoline) deposits
in the ring groves, sticks the ring, then may break the ring, hot gases leak past the rings – and there
goes the ball game.
There is, of course, some concern about possibly wasting a resource by changing oil frequently.
But we simply weigh this against our most valuable and irreplaceable resource – The Ultra Van.
434 returned a short time ago from the Pismo Rally. 1,800 miles, steady driving, warm weather,
few starts, all factors that are favorable to oil life. The oil looks, feels and probably is about like
new. We will change it this afternoon.
Original typed by: Gorgeous Katte
Signed: Fred Leary
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Baffling Loss of Power
Author: Tom Shepherd #440
Tech Tip No. 77-08, 1977
After checking all the usual sources of “loss of power” like timing, carburetors, ignition, vacuum,
compression, I discovered the internal baffles in the muffler had collapsed, blocking the flow
through the muffler. This back-pressure was the direct cause of the power loss.
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Magnetic Oil Drain Plug
Tech Tip No. 86-33, 1986
The Chevrolet Division sells a magnetic oil drain plug that fits Corvair and most other GM
engines. P/N 337185 The cost is about $3.50. Be sure to order the nylon gasket P/N 3921989 to go
with it.
You will be amazed at the wear particles this plug catches from the oil. The advantage of the magnetic plug is that the magnet trapped particles do not have to go through the oil pump (causes wear
there) on its way to the oil filter.
The biggest advantage is during cold start up and engine warm up, the oil filter is by-passed thus
allowing untrapped particles to circulate all through the oil system.....particles trapped on the plug
don’t get recirculated during warm-up.
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Poor Man’s Dwell Meter
Tech Tip No. 89-02, 1989
Most people would like to be able to gap the distributor points without feeler gauges, as you’re
never sure if the drag on the gauge is right. Almost everyone has a volt-ohm meter for working
around the electrical system of their coach, so you already have an uncalibrated dwell meter but
probably never realized it.
Try a little experiment. With your meter on OHMS, rapidly tap the test lead tips. Notice the meter
needle does not go to zero before you open the tips again. Similarly, the needle never gets to infinity before you touch the tips again. You are seeing the average or DWELL time which can be
defined as the time the tips are closed.
If the meter leads were across the points and the distributor shaft turned at a constant speed, you
would see the average time the points are closed. It’s not practical to do it except while cranking.
We need another way.
Put your meter on a low D.C. voltage scale, 1.5 to 5 volts. Take a 1.5 volt flashlight battery. Put the
minus lead on the battery minus (outer case), then tap the plus lead of the meter rapidly on the top
of the battery. Notice the needle on the meter stays at about the same place on the scale at something less than 1.5 volts. This is the dwell time of the lead tip on top of the battery.
By now, you may have realized if the meter was on a 10 to 15 volt scale with the minus lead
grounded and the plus lead on the distributor post, you could read the pulsing voltage of the points
with the motor running. When the points are closed there is no voltage across the points. If the
points are open the meter reads the voltage across them. The average of this flickering voltage can
be calibrated as the dwell.
Degrees of dwell can be different, even with the same point gap as the profile of the distributor
cam may be slightly different. In any case, always use the manufacturers specs. Generally, dwell
time will fall into the following ranges:
# Cylinders
Dwell in Degrees
Point Gap in Inches
4
50 to 64
0.019 to 0.025
6
31 to 43
0.016 to 0.027
6 (Corvair)
31 to 34
0.016 to 0.019
8
26 to 32
0.014 to 0.020
To calibrate your meter, you need to mark the meter face to show when the points are at the right
gap, at a constant idle speed. The easy way is to put in new points, set to the correct gap, connect
the meter, warm engine up to smooth idle and mark the meter face at the point where the needle
200
sits (use transparent tape and mark with ink). This will only be as accurate as how well the point
gap was set. A better way is to borrow a real dwell meter and set the gap with it. Attach both the
dwell meter and your meter to the same place and read the dwell percent, then mark your meter
where ever the needle sits.
Distributors without a sliding side window are harder to set, so do a rough pre-set at cranking
speed with cap off. When the dwell is close, put the cap back on and do the final tweaking at idle
speed.
A point (pun intended) to remember, as you see above, dwell time for 4, 6 or 8 cylinders is different, so if you want to use your meter on other than 6 cylinders, you need to calibrate it for the
other engines as well.
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Octane Boosters
Author: John Alabaster #342
Tech Tip No. 89-09, 1989
The Road & Track magazine, April 1989 issue, has a very well done article on octane boosters.
The bottom line is that octane boosting by going from regular up to premium is in a relative sense
a very cheap way to go. If you need more octane than pump premium, you probably have a “State
of Tune” problem. Fix the problem. But anyhow, it seems the use of additives poses the following
problems:
1. Long term effects on the vehicle fuel system
2. The cost in some cases is ridiculous and always much more than the “oil company” octane
(better grades of gasoline)
3. At the very least they are an annoyance to use
4. Last but certainly not least, the toxicity/health aspects are somewhat dicey
But as was said, “you pays your money and takes your chances.”
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Auto-Moly Update
Tech Tip No. 90-02, 1990
If you want to buy Auto-Moly products or keep your Ultra Manual updated, change the address of
Pacific Lubricants referenced above as follows:
Pacific Lubricants, Engine Accessories Mfg. Co.
Division of Borrowe Corporation
5165 G. Street
Chino, CA 91710
Telephone: 714-591-1480
Also, J.C. Whitney & Co. has it Catalog 514J (1990) page 223.
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Power – Corvair
There are more articles on the next page
Corvair Engine Oil Drips – easy preventative tip for oil leaks
Spare Corvair Fan Belt – recommendation on a better-than-GM spare belt
Air Cleaners – don’t let your air cleaners become restrictive
Cool Oil – a simple way to have cooler oil
Carburetor Tuning with a Synchronizer – this tool makes carb tuning easier
Spark Timing – don’t follow the GM specs for your Ultra Van
Transmission “O” Ring Leaks – it’s easy to fix this oil leak source
Carburetor Check – check this out if your engine runs great but you have no speed
Blower Belt Chatter – check (and fix) your belt first if you hear bearing noises
Oil Pressure Sender Failure – tips to prevent failure
Power from Distributor Point Gap – check your point gap if engine is sluggish
More Pull (3.89 rear end) – heavily-loaded Ultras should consider changing the ring & pinion
140 HP Carb Spring Replacement – make your secondaries open positively with this fix
Oil Pressure Sender Failure Again – more tips to get you home after a failure
Blower and Fan Belts – easy tip to prevent summer problems with Corvairs and V8’s
“Cool It” – Paper on Corvair Cooling – pitfalls and principles of proper Corvair cooling
“Tune It” – Paper on Tuning Corvair – tuning preventive maintenance that you can do
Harmonic Balancer Slip Check – make sure you don’t have a bad harmonic balancer
Selector Valve for Vacuum Gauge – easy tip to check each carburetor’s vacuum
Transmission Oil Cooler – this procedure will increase oil cooling
Large Cooling Fan – this retrofit will increase air cooling
Extra Transmission Cooling – another tip to increase oil cooling
Carburetor Air Cleaners – a quick way to check if your air cleaner needs replacing
Corvair Fan Belt – recommended belt and installation procedure
Oil Leaks – check this area if you have an oil leak
Automatic Transmission Slippage – a cure for transmission slippage
Living with Unleaded Gasoline – ways to get around unavailable premium leaded gas
Blower Belt – another recommended belt
Oil Filter Adapter – use “off-the-shelf” filters with this adapter
Spark Plugs – Corvair – an alternative to the R44FF spark plug
Transmission – Governor Seal – Corvair – recommended non-GM seal
Troubleshooting Engine Performance – causes and cures for poor engine performance
Cooling the Transmission Oil – this fix cools all the oil, not just most of it
Engine Cooling with Water (Corvair) – try this fix if you have high sustained head temps
Engine Valve Push Rod Inspection – inspect push rods before it’s too late
Automatic Transmission Fluid Overflow – contain fluid overflow with this fix
Tool – Engine Remove/Install – Corvair – build this portable engine/transaxle remover/installer
Repairing Stripped Crankcase Threads – repair upper cylinder studs without pulling the head
An Engine Tune-Up Procedure – Corvair – a very detailed procedure for a stock engine
Oil Leak – Out of Corvair Pump Shaft – fix the oil leak without heli-arcing
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Power – Corvair
204
Power – Corvair – continued
Plugging the Fuel Pump Hole – use this method if you remove the stock fuel pump
Fitting Corvair Piston Rings – follow these tips when gapping rings
Corvair Rear Engine Mount & Repair – don’t be caught with a fallen engine mount
Loose Pinion Gear Inspection – check to see if your pinion gear passes this inspection
Tool – Automatic Transmission Modulator – don’t use channel lock pliers, use this tool instead
Low Octane Adjustments – two ways to cope with lower octane gasoline
Update – Rear Engine Mount – replace your 1965 engine mount with a 1969
Crankshaft Gears – Identification – which gear do you have?
Valve Saver – Lead Substitute – this additive will add lead to unleaded gasoline
What Fuel To Use? – several recommendations on using unleaded gasoline
Spark Plug Cables (Corvair) – these sources are known to have good quality plug wires
Pan Gaskets – Engine & Automatic Trans – a source for gaskets
Adjustment of Corvair Valve Lifters – how to properly adjust non-Corvair lifters in a Corvair
Automatic Shift Problems – a fix for abrupt downshifts
Automatic Transmission Fluid Life – you can predict fluid life based on operating temp
Best Carburetor Rebuild Kit – recommendation for rebuild kit
Alternator Substitute Pulley – this temporary fix will eliminate the alternator
Engine Oil Temperature – what Porsche’s engine oil temp range is
Oil Seep Fixes – or No Wet Engine – an easy fix to oil seeps around the filler neck
More on Oil Filters – one owner’s experience with bypass-type (toilet paper) oil filters
Auto Transmission Kickdown Adjustment – procedure if kickdown doesn’t occur at 20-40 MPH
Spark Plugs – Corvair Engines – spark plug recommendations
Valve Spring/Seal Replacement – a simple procedure that doesn’t require compressed air
Ping Control (new product) – this product allows for driver-adjustable timing
Filters – Oil & Air – a list of several filters
Rear Engine Mount – Corvair – identify and correct your engine mount before failure occurs
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Power – Corvair
205
Corvair Engine Oil Drips
Tech Tip No. 66-02, 1966
Simply reach under the engine with a 7/16 inch box-end wrench, tighten all the bolts and studs
around the bottom of the crankcase and transmission case. Not too tight, just very snug. Transmission sealer additives help too.
Power – Corvair
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206
Spare Corvair Fan Belt
Tech Tip No. 66-09, 1966
Every Ultra Van owner should carry a spare fan belt. Maybe you will want to get a Gates Green
Stripe with steel core....#833-XS. These are said to be much more dependable and to last eight
times longer than the standard GM Corvair belt.
Power – Corvair
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Power – Corvair
207
Air Cleaners
Tech Tip No. 67-02, 1967
Running tests with a 110 HP engine and small type individual chrome air cleaners, the best speed
that could be made up the test grade was 25 MPH By removing both air cleaners the speed up the
test grade jumped up to 50 MPH. Conclusion....Do not run without air cleaners, but small air
cleaners can be restrictive, especially if they are dirty. Check yours if necessary, replace with
slightly larger units available at any large auto parts store.
Power – Corvair
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208
Cool Oil
Tech Tip No. 67-06, 1967
Some of our members have installed aluminum oil pans that hold an extra quart or so of oil. #226
and #293 also like the deep air-cooling fins too. These pans are available from almost any speed
shop or J.C. Whitney.
1992 NOTE: These pans are now available from Corvair Obsolete Parts suppliers like Clark’s,
Otto, etc.
Power – Corvair
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Power – Corvair
209
Carburetor Tuning with a Synchronizer
Tech Tip No. 67-08, 1967
The UNI-SYN Carburetor Tuning Instrument is designed to tune and balance any 2 or 4 carburetor engine. This means smooth power.
Power – Corvair
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Power – Corvair
210
Spark Timing
Tech Tip No. 69-04, 1969
When tuning the engine, unless otherwise told, mechanics normally will set the Ultra Van timing
to the GM book specs. We suggest trying 6 to 10 degrees retard from the GM Corvair specs. Long
engine life depends on proper spark timing for the load, vehicle type, altitude, etc. Listen.....if
your engine “cackles” up a grade or against a strong wind, retard the spark. Take it easy, and
downshift....until you can have this five minute adjustment accomplished.
Power – Corvair
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Power – Corvair
211
Transmission “O” Ring Leaks
Author: John Kortlander #271
Tech Tip No. 69-08, 1969
“I finally found out where the oil leak was coming from”. The seal where the shift cable enters the
transmission...”O” ring was leaking. I jacked the Van up in the driveway and installed one myself.
No More Transmission leaks.
Power – Corvair
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Power – Corvair
212
Carburetor Check
Author: Paul Dale #251
Tech Tip No. 69-10, 1969
After a tune-up, I had to take the UV back for a re-check. The engine ran great but there was no
speed. We found the throttle valves were only opening half-way at full throttle. If you lack power
or speed, it’s easy to check. Remove the air cleaner and ask your better-half to push the accelerator to the floor (a stick on it under the shelf will work), then take a flashlight and look down the
throat of each carb. Is the butterfly open all the way. If not, adjust the throttle shaft wire.
Power – Corvair
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213
Blower Belt Chatter
Tech Tip No. 69-14, 1969
Ever hear a sound like “something loose” back there? Apply a little belt dressing.....try this simple
solution as it often quiets what sounds like dry bearings or worse. Belt dressing comes in a choice
of stick, can or tube at auto part stores.
Power – Corvair
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214
Oil Pressure Sender Failure
Tech Tip No. 70-02, 1970
The oil pressure sender (located near the alternator on the Corvair motor) has failed on several
coaches this past year. This is a low percentage out of 400 coaches but is worth a mention. The
bakelite insulator occasionally cracks from the heat, squirting oil all over. If this happens on the
road, simply drive a wooden peg in the hole for a temporary repair. You might also carry a spare,
only a few dollars at the dealer. It may help to raise the sender up with a 3” pipe away from the hot
engine block. Some came from the factory raised-up but some members have had vibration-failure of the iron pipe. A suggestion is to use a stainless or high pressure pipe.
Power – Corvair
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215
Power from Distributor Point Gap
Tech Tip No. 70-07, 1970
On a return trip from San Diego, the engine was sluggish and wouldn’t respond to the throttle as it
had before. After arriving home, I checked the distributor, smoothed the points with a point file,
carefully adjusted the points with an good thickness gauge (should have used the dwell meter).
Full power was restored by this simple 10 minute job. Some members might appreciate this
info...lack of power can be caused by too-wide point gap also.
Power – Corvair
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216
More Pull (3.89 rear end)
Tech Tip No. 70-11, 1970
Some load their Ultra like a truck and others tow boats, dune buggies or motorcycles. There is a
low cost solution for the Corvair coaches. Change the ring and pinion! Most Corvair Ultra Vans
were delivered with the standard 3.55 to 1 rear-end. Find a 3.89 to 1 gear set from a Corvan or
Greenbrier. After making the change, there will be a 34% more gear advantage and perhaps more
pull than you’ll ever need.
Power – Corvair
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217
140 HP Carb Spring Replacement
Author: Bryant Phillips #280
Tech Tip No. 70-18, 1970
The two secondary carburetors on a 140 HP engine open with springs which are not always positive in action. The springs can be replaced with pieces of 3/8 inch copper tubing cut exactly 11/2
inches long. Anyone who is a bit mechanical can do this for improved performance. Be sure to
adjust so both throttle plates open at exactly the same time.
1992 NOTE: See drawing 13-AE on page 13-21 for spring reference (no. 6 3.425)
Power – Corvair
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218
Oil Pressure Sender Failure Again
Tech Tip No. 71-06, 1971
The oil pressure sender is on top of the engine near the alternator. Some members have experienced failure of this unit causing loss of oil and pressure. Check your unit to see if it is developing
a leak.
Failure usually starts in the molded plastic head. If this unit fails suddenly on the road you need
not be left completely helpless. You can carry a spare unit. If caught without one, remove the old
one and plug the hole with a small wooden plug. This will get you to a garage. You can put a small
self-tapping screw in the small opening in the bottom of the unit and reinstall it (see Figure 2 on
Page 16). You can also carry a small 1/8” pipe plug. Remember all these fixes are temporary and
while in effect the idiot lamp on the dash is inoperative.
CAUTION: When installing a new oil pressure sender, use a 6 point 11/16” socket, not pliers or a
12 point socket. If you distort the sender.....quick failure.
Power – Corvair
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219
Blower and Fan Belts
Tech Tip No. 72-14, 1972
Corvair and V8 engines. High temperature, especially during the summer means trouble for V
belts. Watch the tension, keep oil and grease off and above all, always carry a spare.
Power – Corvair
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220
“Cool It” – Paper on Corvair Cooling
Tech Tip No. 75-01, 1975
ULTRA BULL(etin) “COOL IT” by Fred Leary, March 1975
Some of us are old enough to recall year 1959 when Corvair first made the scene. A nice size,
2,500 pounds, 80 HP, good performance, fine handling, economical and smooth. (Was it 15 years
too early)?
But this was a “money and muscle car” era. Corvair went along. Increase cylinder bore (145 c.u.
in.), “hot” camshaft, higher compression, longer stroke (164 c.u. in.), four carburetors, larger
valves and supercharger yet (180 HP, when it works).
While the above was in full swing, a couple of villains came on the scene.
1. The factory decided to heat (and oil) the passengers directly from the engine. Hot air was
recirculated to the blower inlet... a lot during warm up (good).....some all of the time (not
so good).
2. Production of aluminum cylinder heads became a bit..... shall we say....”careless”? Manufacturer pleads “guilty” and suggests tool, J-21308 to remove casting faults and permit a
little better air flow. (Have not observed the manufacturer ever USED J-21308)
Just when this formula (more power / less cooling) reached its peak a (not quite) nameless citizen
decided the Corvair engine should push a 5,000 pound motor home, up mountains and against
headwinds.
Result: The most delightful and efficient motor home in the business. Correction of a few basic
bugs will put it in the “SUPER” category.
Yes, prevention and correction do involve work a little part the “fun” level. We hesitate to mention
what will happen as the result of NOT doing it. Enough hesitation......some samples:
1. Heads overheat, valve seat inserts loosen and go on a trip, get tangled in the machinery.
2. Piston failure. Total collapse is downright discouraging, but a neat 1 inch hole in the crown
will also present a problem or two.
3. Spark plug stuck in head. Comes out with much effort and leaves a nice round
hole.......with no threads.
4. “O” rings on outer ends of the push rod tubes harden and shrink. Sometimes we are
lucky....only 10 of the 12 leak a steady stream.
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5. Total loss of faith in the fine little Corvair engine. (crusher)
Hot heads, hot cylinders, hot pistons, hot oil. If you find something good in this formula, please
advise.
The above items are typical of the deeds of the Overheat/Detonation combo. These two guys
(black hats) are first cousins and generally travel together. They face the lineup again in the next
bulletin on the fire, called “Tune-It”.
The title says “COOL IT”.....Let’s go:
1. The lower air ducts (thermostat, air shutters et al) must go. With shutters wide open some
restriction and recirculation of hot air occurs. OK for the little Corvair...NO GOOD for the
motor home, OK in Duluth.....NO GOOD in Dallas.
With tinware gone, cooling air will now blow straight down and leave the scene. Good riddance. Red hot exhaust manifolds are now out in the open, engine looks rather “naked”.
Fear not.
Small openings will be left back to the top of the engine compartment (pulley and oil filter
visible from below). A little aluminum sheet, a few screws and the top section is tight
again. We want no “second hand” hot air leaking back to the blower.
We gained a lot, we lost a little:
A. The fast engine warm up the thermostats provided. A tiny sacrifice we had to make to
improve “on the road” cooling. If you decide to use the motor home just for short trips
to the local pub (or to Jasper in January) the original system goes back on, all of it!
B. Passenger heat. (Were you using it?) Here we back up a little. Make a pair of aluminum
sheets about 31/2 x 14....attach to engine base (near oil pan) with three 1/4” screws
removed earlier. These baffles develop enough back pressure to send a useful amount of
heat to the operator. Tests show no increase in head temperature with the mini-baffles
installed. When we head up the mountains in July, we remove these little units. Keeps
the operator happy.
If you promise to use them only in cold weather (like 40°F or below) larger baffles
enclosing the exhaust manifolds are in order. Sheets will be about 91/2 x 14...bent to
capture the manifolds.
C. Carburetors may ice during warm up. (temporary and happens a few times a year). The
technical solution....ignore it.
2. Those plugged cylinder head passages. “Stock” condition is about equivalent to a bucket of
wet sawdust in the radiator of a Cadillac.
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Would it go 10 miles? The Corvair, being a tougher breed goes thousands.
During engine overhaul, we generally spend many hours clearing air flow passages. 434
was a bad one....about 40% restricted. At 26,000 miles the valves were ready for attention.
Piston rings were not quite stuck in the grooves... and not free either.
We have not had occasion to open passages with the currently installed engine, but...it certainly can...and should be done. Here is your chance to join the experimental department.
A. Remove accessories, top engine cover and blower. A little work but there is a bonus.
Odds are strong that the 16 top crankcase cover bolts are loose and leaking oil. (Factory
not guilty.... aging of gaskets does it). Tighten gently, 12 ft. pounds is enough. Is the
crankcase breather line clear? 99% are not. Remove rags, leaves, bugs and birds from
the oil cooler air passages. Worth the effort for these items, but don’t stop here.
B. The cooling fins are tapered with the restriction right in the middle (real tool grabbers).
J-21308 or equivalent is a good starting point. Gently punch, probe (and guess) while
trying to find out where the air passages are supposed to be. Find and clear them all, but
don’t make any new ones...like into the valve ports.
C. We want free air passages with at least 0.090” clearance. A 3/32” drill at least 4” long is
next. Modify cutting edge to control the “screw in and break” habit. After you break a
few, you may want to try some homemade ones. 3/32” drill rod with tip flattened and
hardened works quite well for me. Special reamers, carbide coated round saw blades
and other devices often get into the act. A slow drill and lots of cutting fluid are
required. A friend with dentist or machinist is a real item. Promise him anything except
the coach.
D. Days later, cylinder heads look much better. A few more details and we’ll have it
resembling an air-cooled engine. Now, check for holes and leaks past the engine where
we don’t want the air to go. Plug all possible. We’re going from practice to principle.
The principle: Corvair cooling, depends on a definite POSITIVE pressure in the chamber above the cylinders, this pressure forces air through the many small passages. No
short cuts permitted.
Remember the rubber boots which attach the spark plug leads to the engine cover? If
one blows off, we quickly produce one cold cylinder and five hot ones. The hole in the
cover simply drops the pressure and the five good ones are in trouble.
Some call it a blower, some say fan, but the gizmo on top of the engine is really a very good high
volume air compressor. A thin cork gasket cemented around the perimeter of the engine cover will
seal a multitude of small leaks. You pay (3 - 5HP) for that pressure, lets keep it in the can. When it
does escape, it has to go through those nice clear passages we finished. It won’t creep or detour, it
will really whistle “Dixie” (or Yankee equivalent) doing much good around the exhaust valves.
The “Idiot Light” (cylinder temperature) is of no real value. If overheating turns it on, it says,
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quote: Engine overheated real bad about five miles back, stop, get a pail, go back and collect the
metal parts and aluminum ingots from back on the highway.
You guessed it! A good cylinder head temperature gauge is essential. A sharp operator who will
downshift in a climb before trouble occurs is also a nice item.
SORRY ABOUT THAT Department. We fully agree with the intentions of the fabricators of those
assorted “air scoops” hung on Ultra Vans. Too bad they don’t work until you exceed 90 m.p.h. The
ram effect expected just isn’t there at cruising speeds. The scoops actually is in the way due to
restricting the cross section area. The cooling blower (compressor?) needs only access to fresh
air...it knows exactly what to do with it.
To all who do their homework faithfully, it goes like this:
Engine Speed
Cylinder Head Temperature
Oil Temperature
2,500 RPM
310°F
170°F
A cool breeze on a cool operator, a cool co-pilot, carrying cool containers, heading for a cool
Ultra Rally....THE ONLY WAY TO GO
Signed, Fred Leary
Power – Corvair
Table Of Contents
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“Tune It” – Paper on Tuning Corvair
Tech Tip No. 75-05, 1975
ULTRA BULL(etin) “TUNE IT” by Fred Leary, September 1975
Sorry about the title, but the “tune-up” business has become a major item in the automotive world.
Quite often, however, it is not the vehicle, but the shop cash register, which is upgraded.
Of course, we believe in equipment maintenance – especially preventive maintenance. This effort
will be directed toward those items which can be done by the owner with a minimum of special
tools, and a few (but not many) replacement parts. As usual, the flavor (small?) will be strongly
Corvairish, but with minor differences apply to your favorite V8. A few headings will be needed
to keep things in “firing order”.
DISTRIBUTOR
Some items to simplify the job:
1. A special wrench for rotating the crankshaft by hand. (A 3/4” open end wrench which has
one end cut-off and stuffed into an 18” piece of pipe to make a long handle.)
2. A “precision” spark gap tester. (Any old spark plug with the gap increased to about 1/8“.)
3. A special anti-backlash tensioning device to resist normal distributor shaft rotation (a few
1/ inch wide rubber bands.)
4
4. Some common hand tools (which most carry in the coach in triplicate)
A few twists of the screwdriver and the distributor cap is off. Move it aside and pick off the rotor
and dust shield. Replace the rotor and turn the crank (counter clockwise on the Corvair, clockwise
on the V8) until the rotor points where the #1 spark plug lead would be if the cap was still on
(directly to the rear of the vehicle for the Corvair – “elsewhere” on V8s).
The crankshaft timing marks (notch in pulley, pointer and matching degree numbers should be in
approximate alignment). NOTE: Two piece crankshaft pulleys with a rubber vibration damper
insert have been known to slip - sometimes a half mile or so. Reference marks have been stamped
on the metal parts and across the rubber section as a means of detecting this bit of dishonesty. If
the rather obscure marks are properly aligned, paint a white or silver radial stripe for easy future
reference. If it slips, a new pulley is in order. The all metal replacement pulley is fully satisfactory
for Motor Home use – and it stays honest.
Remove the lead from the center of the distributor cap and attach this lead to the “Special wide
gap spark plug”. Rest the plug on a metal engine surface. Loop a couple of rubber bands together,
attach one end to the rotor, wind a few times (counter clockwise), stretch a few inches and connect
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other end of band to a convenient engine part. We now have a very useful “spring”, holding the
distributor shaft against rotation. This step is essential – a “floating” distributor shaft will cause all
kinds of errors when we get to the timing project. No – the errors aren’t there with the engine running, thanks to the oil pump, also driven by the distributor shaft. The power transmitted to the oil
pump keeps the shaft stabilized against thrust washers. Neat!
Ready for the fun! Rotate crankshaft until breaker points are open, turn ignition switch on, reverse
crankshaft to close points, then in normal direction to open (break) the contacts. Result, a nice
snappy spark each time the points break. Repeat several times and note the position of the timing
marks when the spark occurs. Always “park” the crankshaft with the points open. (Leaving them
closed causes 300% more primary current flow than when running). Baked coil and/or fried points
won’t improve things much. Ignition OFF while we think things over.
Some thoughts and observations:
1. Spark jumps the gap, but not very snappy. Thin blue perhaps with occasional misfires?
2. Definite sparking of the breaker points each time they open? This is a no-no. Generally
caused by oxides or oil on the contact surface. (Maybe a defective condenser, but this is
not nearly as common as the “sales” department would have you believe.
3. Conclusion – the points need “attention”. We would like to do this as assembled and have
tried many times, with very little success. So out comes the breaker plate. Disconnect the
primary lead to the coil, remove two #8 screws and its out. Note: mark the location of the
screws, the distributor body has two other screws (which secure the cap). The latter two
look the same, but one is #8 and the other is #10 (sneaky). Removal of the points only is
OK if you prefer (easier on most V8s).
Points in hand, proceed to nearest “shade tree” for detailed inspection. Clean the assembly with
alcohol or thinner, not gasoline or mineral spirits. Dress the points (clean file, abrasive paper, etc.)
to produce 70% match of contact surfaces – 100% you will not get. Remove all abrasive and
chips, finish with several passes of soft paper between contact surfaces. Decision time, install or
replace with new points? If new ones, insist on a set with a copper conductor strap in parallel with
the breaker spring. New condenser if you insist, it will likely be as good as the one installed and
we DO carry a spare, don’t we. Wipe the distributor cam with a clean cloth.
Assemble the machinery and proceed as before with the good old “spark test”. Several cycles may
be needed for the points (old or new) to get acquainted. Set points at proper gap. Our preference is
for a somewhat wider gap than the book, it gives lower primary current, longer point life and a
few other benefits. Points may bounce or misfire above 5,000 RPM, so don’t use the wide gap on
your dragster.
Spark test completed. It is time for a little lubrication, repeat a “bit”. Special cam lubricant for
only the cam and rubbing block. An amount about the size of a match head applied to the cam.
The rubbing will pick it up as the cam rotates. (we’re not fond of the “built-in” lubricator pads
used on some points) A tube of cam lube costs 50õ and lasts 50 years. One drop of motor oil on
the felt pad at the top of the shaft (under the rotor) will keep the centrifugal advance happy.
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With the coil producing a good spark, there’s still the problem of it getting to the spark plugs.
Under heavy load, high voltage impulses tend to leak to ground at any point except the plug gap.
Moisture, dirt and oil often give it the chance. So clean the high voltage system (coil top, distributor cap, rotor and leads right to the plug). We clean them just like Mom cleans the dishes, with her
detergent and equipment. The bold remove them all and proceed using due regard for firing order
when re- installing. Conservative types may prefer the “one at a time” technique.
The vacuum advance mechanism may not be working, easy to check. Remove the hose from the
carburetor end and using strong suction, watch for the proper movement of the operating shaft.
Remove suction and watch to see the unit return to the retard position. If it leaks, replace it. Give
your parts man the complete number stamped on the distributor, several units look the same but
are not.
IGNITION TIMING
Perhaps a better heading would be “Crime and Punishment”. We have been exposed to enough
wild and weird ideas in this department to fill several bulletins. The basic idea of spark “advance”
is simple, enough advance to produce efficient engine operation, but not an advance that will produce detonation (ping under heavy load).
“COOL IT” listed a few tricks of the detonation/overheating combo. Let’s examine a bit further:
1. Detonation is extremely destructive and the harmful effects are present before you hear it.
(Sure you want to tune by ear?)
2. Detonation is a “build-up” process. If we advance ignition timing to the limit for a quick
check by any system, there will probably be some bad news waiting about two-thirds of
the way up some mountain.
3. It is true (unfortunately) that for a so-called “flash” reading, adjusting to borderline detonation will produce a (barely measurable) increase in torque. It is also true that manufacturers practice and specify several degrees retard from this setting. So do we.
4. Changing the timing at idle (very convenient) reveals the engine is very sensitive to spark
advance. Maybe a lot of extra HP from a bit of super timing? Not so! There is no useful
relation between idling and under load timing requirements.
5. Need we mention that all Corvair engines except the 95, and most V8s (1965-70) were
designed for premium fuel, or gasolines in general have been recently “improved” only in
price, not quality.
So much for the “how not to” section. In the “how to” part, we have the standard bad news and
good news.
The bad news: There has never been a usable ignition timing specification for any Corvair engine
installed in an Ultra Van. Operating conditions are quite different from those of a 2,600 lb. coupe.
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Individual engines (even cylinders) vary noticeably in compression ratio, valve timing, etc. and
the firmly installed timing marks can be “off” a few degrees when compared with the true piston
position. (Same for V8s, often more so).
The good news: For your coach, engine, mileage and favorite fuel, a safe and efficient ignition
timing specification can be established. Also, this number will be a true “custom” setting and will
be easy to recheck and maintain. Like so:
1. Assemble the tools we used in the distributor check. Loosen the distributor clamp nut so it
can be rotated by moderate tapping. Spark a few. What timing do we want? 10° before top
center is a good starting point for the Corvair and somewhere in the ball park for the V8.
All set at 10° BTC, we now need a reference point on the distributor case. The best available is the hose connection on the vacuum advance. Make a mark (or tape) on a fixed
engine surface aligned with this connection.
Practice a bit. Try a few different settings like 8°, 12°, 16°, etc. Teach that spark to occur,
exactly where you tell it to. By now, we have noted 1/8” movement at the hose connection
changes the timing on the distributor 2° which is 4° on the crankshaft.
2. Back to 10° for a road test. Complete warm-up and a definite up grade, if available. Check
slight, moderate and full acceleration. Engine coves open, hearing aid set to “max”. If any
cylinder says “ping”, retard 1/16” (clockwise on distributor body) and try again. We are
looking for your version of “borderline detonation”. When you find it, stop the vehicle and
determine the exact ignition timing. Retard 4° from this setting. This is it! Write it down,
or engrave in stone.
3. We hope your magic number is somewhere between 4° and 16° B.T.C. initial timing.
Should be, provided the timing marks are telling the truth. Relocate the mark for the hose
connection as accurately as possible. It is a useful reference, but not to be used for timing
purposes. The spark test only for timing. If we require less than about 6° BTC, it generally
means some thick carbon deposits, or very hot exhaust valves. (Could it be you “forgot” to
clear those restricted cylinder head passages a la “COOL IT”!)
4. We can cheat a bit under one condition. When travelling above 5,000 ft. altitude, it is permissible to advance the timing 6° or so. Operating here, the air is thin, the mixture rich, the
vacuum advance is “dead”, the centrifugal advance not too healthy, so the extra boost can
safely be used. Reset for decent to sea level or....carry a spare set of pistons.
SPARK PLUGS
Volumes have been written on this subject, most of it very good. No need (or space) to repeat, so
will merely list our three suggestions on this subject:
(a) Get the proper type
(b) Treat them right
(c) Use them a long time
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For the Corvair engine, we have found nothing wrong with the factory listing: AC 44FF. We have
found no advantage in booster gaps, resistors, projected tips, platinum electrodes, etc. The operating temperature (heat range) of the 44FF is very good in a properly cooled Corvair engine. V8
engines in a coach will generally operate well on plugs specified for the passenger car. In a few
cases of hot running engines (or a heavy foot) standard plugs may show almost white on the
exposed insulator tip. (too hot – light tan is about right). In this case a cooler plug of similar type
would be a safer selection.
Treating them right is more complex than it sounds and is apparently beyond the ability of 90% of
the professional mechanics. We have on hand a “horror box” of spark plugs from Ultras and a few
others. Cracked insulators, damaged threads, leaking gaskets, wrong thread length (reach), etc. A
couple are now “2 piece” plugs but once were 1 piece units when installed. What happened to
those aluminum threads in the cylinder heads is too awful to mention.
We believe any Ultra Coacher who is qualified to drive, put water and gasoline in their respective
tanks most of the time, is also qualified to perform spark plug maintenance, certainly better than
many Pro’s.
First, we have to get them out, a warm engine is our preference for this operation. Using proper
tools, apply pressure to unseat the plug the least amount possible. Then, gently rotate a few
degrees each way. If thread binding is noted, be very careful, working in very small steps. WD-40
or equal may help. Forcing will often result in a damaged plug (75¢) and a damaged head (75 big
ones). Plugs removed, a grease coated 14mm tap is run in (straight, of course) to clean the threads.
Then clean the machined gasket surface, a small chip or pebble here is the beginning of big trouble.
At this point, it would be assumed that we have removed the plugs in order to swap them for a
new set. Negative. We remove them (at least twice a year) for inspection, cleaning, adjustment and
lubrication. Back they go (with new gaskets, if available). Treated thus, they never stick, and ours
seem to last so long that we finally feel sorry for the plug makers (and their advertisers). We then
honorably retire them.
Yes, we said “clean them”. The shops no longer use their sand blast equipment and this is just as
well, they never did the job. Our “do it yourself” equipment is very elaborate:
1. A “Bobby Pin” bent open, with the straight side thinned and sharpened at the tip
2. Several strips of fine abrasive paper (aluminum oxide) a few inches long and about as wide
as the bobby pin.
Using the metal tool, we remove the built-up material from the ceramic insulator, all the way
down to the point where it meets the metal shell. For reference, the normal length of the 44FF
insulator is 1/2 inch. Removal of the deep stuff is very important, sandblast machines never did it,
instead, they usually packed in a little more sand (not in our engine – thank you).
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After the metal tool has done its job, place a strip of abrasive paper parallel with the “probe” and
with gentle pull strokes, give the insulator its final cleaning. Sounds difficult, but a little practice
will prove otherwise. Clean the firing electrodes a bit, the books say they should be carefully filed
sharp and square. We don’t, suggest you don’t.
Adjust the firing gap (0.030”). Seems easy to set it with a 0.030” wire gauge, but it generally
isn’t. Too much minor bending and guessing for a job that is not all that critical. Instead borrow a
factory practice, use a 0.030” as a “go gauge” and a 0.032” as a “no go” gauge. (434 with C/D
ignition system, is quite happy with 0.045” to 0.050” plug gaps, but that is another story or BULLetin). With C/D spark plug and breaker point life is somewhere between remarkable and unbelievable.
Ready to reinstall (almost). Using a thin sharp knife, clean the bottom of the threads of the spark
plugs. This is the area presented to the thread points in the aluminum head. Blow or brush the
threads.
Yes, we will lubricate the plug threads in opposition to some advice. Several good products are
available, we use NEVER-SEEZ for no better reason than it was one of the first tried, and it does
the job. Your choice is OK with us, but we will be critical on the “how to apply” step. A half
pound on the index finger is not it. Use a small stiff brush and apply a very thin coating (just
enough to see - no build up) to the thread area. Enough - more will cause trouble.
Install all plugs “by hand” – no lever permitted. Note they go down to the gasket surface free and
easy. (Comment: Has there ever been an excuse for cross threading a spark plug?) Ready to “snug
em up”. Here some of the charts (even factory specs) can get us in trouble.
For several years, the torque value for the Corvair was listed as high as 25 ft. lbs. Wild! Revised of
course, but the change was not widely circulated (or copied). 15 ft. lbs. is (and always has been
adequate).
If you have access to an accurate and sensitive torque wrench, use thereof is certainly approved.
(Most are made for strong men and Diesel engines). Our preference is a 3/8” drive “T” handle
(used as a T – not L) driving through an extension and universal joint. Using both hands close to
the pivot point, true torque is transmitted – not evil side pressure.
The first half turn or so (new gasket) feels kind of “mushy”. Stripped threads? Resume breathing,
this is just gasket compression, necessary for both sealing and heat transfer. Words are inadequate
to describe 15 ft. lbs., but with a little practice you will hit “expert” class real soon. You’re welcome to work out on 434 at the next rally.
CARBURETION
Because the Corvair system is “different” with separate carburetors and lots of linkage, it is often
accused of all sorts of malpractice. Actually, the system is quite stable when properly set up - and
adjustments are not all that difficult. Much frustration results from an attempt to correct bad
valves, air leaks, weak ignition, etc. by regular “retuning” of all convenient adjustments. In one
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instance, a leaky modulator valve in the transmission caused an owner to practically wear out the
carburetor adjustments.
First, we will synchronize the two throttle shafts at the idle position. Wire the chokes full open. at
the left carburetor (pilot side), disconnect the main cross shaft from the short link to the throttle
arm. Note this side (and only this side) has a screw adjustment at the lower end – we will need it
soon. Then back out the throttle stop screws on both carburetors allowing the throttle calves to
close completely. Not visible externally, but they will close against the casting (inside) and the
pump springs will hold them closed. Now, by sight and feel, turn each stop screw until it just
touches (but does not open) the throttles. (Touchy step – repeat, if unsure). Open each throttle
exactly two full turns of the stop screws. This is a guess at the proper idle speed.
Adjust the threaded link to the left carburetor so it holds both throttles closed against the stop
screws. Adjustments are only possible on a 1 full turn basis – perfectionists will insist on bending
(or unbending) the short shaft for a perfect adjustment. Install the connecting spring clip. The carburetors are now synchronized. All future adjustments of idling speed (RPM) will be made by
turning both stop screws exactly the same amount in the same direction.
The idle mixture ratio (rich or lean) adjustments are variable idle discharge nozzles – not air
bleeds or bypass valves. Turning them “down” (against the spring and seat) leans the mixture. 11/2
turns open is a reasonable starting point. With the engine idling (and fully warm), these adjustments will be made to produce the smoothest regularity of the exhaust impulses. Lean to the point
of roughness, then rich enough for smooth operation.
Idle mixture adjustments affect idle speed somewhat and vice versa. A few “trimming” adjustments on both will probably be required, but don’t spend all afternoon chasing an elusive “miss”
which doesn’t respond – very likely you have a valve, engine, carburetor internal trouble – all
beyond the scope of a “TUNE IT” project.
Before we leave the carburetion corner, a few other items: Better replace those 3/8” I.D. neoprene
hose sections on each end of the balance tube between the carburetor flanges. They get quite hot,
and they don’t like it. How long has it been since you drained the bottom of the gas tank? A can of
gasoline additive a couple of times a year won’t hurt anything either.
Is the fuel pump over 3 years old?
COMPRESSION
While the spark plugs are out, a compression check is probably worth the effort, but don’t be too
respectful of the readings obtained. With powerful batteries and starters in use, the cranking speed
is quite high. Many engines (especially the small displacement Corvair) will show high and consistent pressures with several valves leaking. Often the compression check will verify a really bad
one – a condition we already knew. For detailed analysis, we find it necessary to use a stethoscope
at the exhaust, carburetors and crankcase breather. Engine rotated by hand. Messy and difficult,
but this system “tells it like it is” and points out the specific “bad guys” by number!
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CRUISING
It should be noted, carburetors are adjustable only in the idling range. Adjustments have no effect
whatever over 15 MPH or so. How about the situation at 55 MPH? (Main metering system) An
observation: A fair number of Corvair powered Ultras are running: Too much ignition advance,
Too Lean, Too Hot. Super economy, but this is also known as the three F’s.
Fred’s Fragmented Formula
Place your bets: Punctured Pistons, Vaporized Valves or Missing Machinery we guarantee a “winner” on each roll. Too much advance is discussed herein, too hot elsewhere, too lean happens like
this........
1. During the late 1960’s, engine makers were “running scared” on the pollution hassle.
Thus, very lean mixtures - possibly too lean for the cars, certainly too lean for motorhome
use.
2. Many eager operators were advised to “open up” the air flow by chopping the air inlet
“snorkel”, thus destroying a calibrated part of the carburetion system.
3. Some even read “COOL IT”, applied same, resulting in cooler air to the carburetors. A bit
more leaning (but an overall benefit).
The FIX: Try 2 sizes larger main metering jets. Sacrifice a little super (false) economy (we do) to
gain performance and engine life. In an emergency (like Pismo 74), we have been known to apply
the variable venturi principle. Very scientific. What we did was to install a small cork in each venturi to produce a higher average suction – left handed substitute for larger main jets. The W.A.G.
(Wild Assed Guess) was apparently close enough – recently, we found the corks still in place mileage good – and a happy engine/operator team. (Hang in there, 296!)
CONCLUSION – (It had to be around here someplace)
Advanced technicians in the Club will no doubt be distressed by the lack of “scientific” tuning
equipment and procedures. No synchronizers, dwell meters, flow meters, ohmmeters, analyzers,
etc. We have such equipment – it is used primarily for experimental and instruction purposes. But,
for keeping 434 in good health, it isn’t worth taking off the hook.
Definitely, we wouldn’t carry it on trips.
We prefer to concentrate on the tools and techniques that are “on board”, and available at all times
– in all places. Somehow, we are not able to visualize the reported attractiveness of a close-up
view of the stern end of a tow truck.
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232
Harmonic Balancer Slip Check
Tech Tip No. 76-07, 1976
The harmonic balancer is fitted to all higher powered Corvair engines and all equipped with automatic transmissions. This balancer or “pulley” is keyed to the rear-end of the crankshaft. It drives
the blower fan and alternator with a V-belt.
These little devils have three pieces: a grooved pulley an inner hub and a rubber bonding between.
A reference line is cut across the steel parts. Sometimes, due to poor assembly or from oil attacking the bond, the outer pulley “slips” and throws the timing mark off on the outer edge of the pulley.
Do you wonder, why you can’t time your engine properly? In serious cases, the balancer has separated with horrible results to the nearby oil filter and engine in general. Before this happens,
check the balancer. A tiny mirror helps. If the marks are in line and if the balance is clean and free
of oil, you might take a chance and leave it on. If there is any indication of slippage, you should
replace the balancer. The rubber in the balancer should be “live” and easily dented with your finger-nail.
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Selector Valve for Vacuum Gauge
Tech Tip No. 77-07, 1977
A handy modification to the vacuum gauge is a selector valve and a couple of pieces of hose to
make a “Y” so either side of the Corvair carburetors can be checked independently.
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Transmission Oil Cooler
Author: J.O. Murphy #396
Tech Tip No. 78-02, 1978
Try moving the cooler from the engine air intake compartment to under the floor about level with
and beside the transmission. It seems to have made a definite improvement in performance and the
heat from the transmission no longer warms the incoming air to the engine compartment.
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Large Cooling Fan
Author: Roland Mitchell #326
Tech Tip No. 78-03, 1978
A high powered 18” fan system for the Corvair can be made from a GM power steering pump,
gate valve, by-pass relief, pressure gauge, reservoir and hydraulic motor run at 450 rpm. Contact
me if interested.
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Extra Transmission Cooling
Tech Tip No. 78-08, 1978
Extra cooling for the transmission can be accomplished by attaching accordion pleated aluminum
to the bottom of the transmission pan with bolts. This effectively provides extra heat radiation.
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Carburetor Air Cleaners
Tech Tip No. 78-14, 1978
Does your engine seems to have that “run-down” feeling, like it needs pep pills? If the intake air
filter has not been changed in the last 5 or 10 thousand miles, it could be the cause of your “tired”
engine. Just make a short run with the air cleaner off and see if you notice any difference. Some
auto stores have a larger than standard air cleaner which may fit.
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Corvair Fan Belt
Tech Tip No. 81-05, 1981
GM Part Number 3780981 Belt Blower....try this alternate Gates P/N 7565 10X1440. When
removing belt, loosen the idler pulley and slip the belt over the alternator pulley first. On installation, slip the belt over the alternator pulley last. The alternator pulley is the only shallow groove
pulley in the system, thus the belt is not stretched needlessly.
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Oil Leaks
Author: Carol Versteegh #413
Tech Tip No. 81-07, 1981
Walk around your coach each time you leave a spot. Look for leaks. While walking around I
found a puddle under the engine and found a leak at the oil filter. The crankshaft pulley (harmonic
balancer) had separated and the outer pulley slipped back rubbing the oil filter and wore a hole in
the case. A new pulley and filter were fitted, no more leak.
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Automatic Transmission Slippage
Author: Art Merrifield #476
Tech Tip No. 81-10, 1981
The transmission began slipping and it was cured with “Trans-Last” Automatic Transmission
Conditioner obtained from Corvair Unlimited, Costa Mesa, CA. Now, no leaks, no slip.
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Living with Unleaded Gasoline
Author: Peter Quaresmo #477
Tech Tip No. 81-12, 1981
The Corvair engine is a high performance unit that generally requires premium gasoline.
What will Ultra owners do when leaded hi-test fuel is phased out?
The engineers at the AAA of Southern California have studied the problem and recommend mixing a half tank of regular with a half tank of premium. The net result is a fuel of about 93 octane.
The small amount of lead in the regular fuel tends to boost the octane substantially. Bill Estes of
Motor Home Life suggests water injection as an aid also. Retarding the spark timing is a further
help. All in all, our members should be able to cope with the problem quite easily. By the way, all
Union 76 Stations carry leaded Premium gasoline.
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Blower Belt
Author: Dean Hansen #427
Tech Tip No. 81-18, 1981
After much research a new Gates belt has been found for the Corvair blower/alternator drive. P/N
8561 – wide tooth with the correct depth for the pulley. It is stocked by OTTO Parts 9659 Remer
St., S. El Monte, CA 91733...Phone 213-579-5875
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Oil Filter Adapter
Tech Tip No. 81-23, 1981
An adapter is made by: Patidevco Adapters P.O. Box 267 Nipomo, CA 93444 that allows you to
use many current “off-the-shelf” filters. The kit is complete with the exception of the filter. When
ordering you must state whether you want a vertical or horizontal filter mount.
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Spark Plugs – Corvair
Tech Tip No. 82-01, 1982
The R44FF AC plugs are hard to find. A suitable alternative is the NKG Japanese Series P/N
B5HS Spark Plug, available at many NAPA stores.
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Transmission – Governor Seal – Corvair
Tech Tip No. 83-08, 1983
Group 4.256 Seal (GM) P/N 6256328. An alternate seal is an aircraft hydraulic “O” ring AN622718 = (MS28775-213). Nominal Dimensions are: 15/16” ID x 13/16” OD x 1/8” width. These “O”
rings are slightly thicker than the GM seal and has a softer shore hardness and closer manufacturing tolerance.
INSTALLATION: Coat with Vaseline and roll onto the governor with a smooth polished tool having a curve at the end. Slide the tool 360 degrees under the “O” ring to remove any twist. Apply
more Vaseline to the “O” ring and into the “CLEANED” cavity area. Firmly press governor into
position until seated firmly against the transmission case. Hold in position until the retaining bolt
is installed and tightened.
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Troubleshooting Engine Performance
Tech Tip No. 84-03, 1984
Troubleshooting for Poor Engine Performance (Note: This is not a full course in mechanics........................ ONLY HIGHLIGHTS!)
First - WE MUST KNOW that the engine is sound:
1. ENGINE – Good compression – All cylinders
2. Engine has not been overheated....even temporarily
3. Cam Shaft to Crankshaft timing is reasonably accurate
4. Ignition timing can be and is set to reasonable accuracy (See Harmonic Balancer Check Manual pages 13-12 & 14-3)
5. Exhaust system is in fairly good condition............especially no plugged mufflers
6. Transmission condition is GOOD - not slipping under load
7. Brakes FREE – not dragging....parking brake OFF
Major Factors To Be Checked – Engine Not Running
1. Throttle Pedal depressed all the way – CHECK. Are carburetor butterflies WIDE OPEN or
only partly open? THEY MUST BE WIDE OPEN
2. Are Chokes Full Open? (after warm-up) Check to see if all choke linkages are connected,
free and smooth. NOTE: If in doubt of choke action, lash in FULL OPEN position (temporarily) as choke is not needed after warm-up
3. Air Passages to Blower & Air Cleaners NOT RESTRICTED or blocked by debris, rags,
paper or improperly stowed items
4. Air Cleaners CLEAN.....not dirt clogged
Major Factors To Be Checked – Engine Running
1. Engine can be started and WILL RUN on ALL cylinders
2. Fuel delivery to carburetor(s) is adequate...of sufficient volume and steady pressure for full
throttle under driving load
3. Spark delivery to each cylinder is strong enough to jump a gap of 1/4 to 3/8 inches when a
plug wire is near spark plug center terminal
4. Vacuum is within fairly normal range at idle....16 to 20”
5. Engine will accelerate well as throttle is advanced under no driving load – without abnormal vibration, hesitation or obvious missing
6. Exhaust flow out tail pipe(s) is quite steady – no erratic pulsations or obvious changes in
pressure (use hand behind tail pipe to check.
7. Exhaust pipe color is near gray or tan – but check only after a good run on the open
road...not less than 5 miles
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QUESTIONS TO BE ASKED AND CONSIDERED
1. Has apparent “Poor Performance” or “Loss of Power”, been progressively worsening or.....
2. Has condition seemingly developed in a fairly recent and short time and/or miles?
3. What work, changes and/or adjustments have you or someone else done just recently that
could have affected the performance and power?
REMEMBER....people can and do create mechanical problems by poor workmanship. Think
back on recent servicing work done for possible CLUES to the current complaint. DON’T JUMP
TO HASTY CONCLUSIONS for generally MOST power plant problems are caused by people
rather than true mechanical part failures....EXCEPT where vehicle past history is one of consistent neglect and/or inadequate preventive maintenance.
Example: One Ultra owner spent much time and work on tune up, ignition, fuel system and even
pulled the heads off, but finally found a plugged muffler was the cause of “POOR POWER”.
SOME OTHER CAUSES OF “POOR PERFORMANCE”
1. FUEL TANK near empty – sloshing fuel may uncover pick-up tube end and allow air to
enter the system
2. FUEL LINES or connections loose and drawing air
3. FUEL FILTER(s) partially plugged
4. FUEL TANK VENT(s) greatly restricted by mud, dirt or even cobwebs. Also, consider
KINKED HOSE(s)
5. FUEL PUMP(s) defective.....rather rare
6. IGNITION FAULTS: points/distributor cap/rotor/plug wires (SMOG is the worst enemy of
wires), 2 years is maximum life in SMOG. Condensers/coil...failures are very rare. Dirty
distributor cap and wires, – wash with detergent and water, then dry THOROUGHLY.
TUNE-UP
JUST WHAT IS TUNE-UP?
Until the above have been evaluated and satisfied, the actual TUNE-UP is somewhat wasted or
can only be a partial success. TUNE-UP is the final stages of restoring the maximum power to the
driving wheels at minimum fuel consumption. Thus any TUNE-UP can only bring the desired
results when and if ALL parts of the ENTIRE VEHICLE are in good condition and are WORKING together harmoniously and efficiently.
WHERE DOES IT START?
To answer this question – it starts with the vehicle weight, streamlining (smooth air flow), wheels
and tires rolling smoothly, wheel alignment correct and progresses through the entire power plant
and drive train. Even tire pressures and tire condition will have a bearing on the final result.
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WHAT IS THIS FINAL RESULT SO MUCH TO BE DESIRED?
IT IS....Generating maximum torque to propel the vehicle over a given road at the chosen speed
with the smoothest and steadiest power – at the least fuel consumption per mile.
TUNE-UP PROCEDURE
Using the specifications from your MANUAL(s), Tech Bulletins and direct instructions, proceed
slowly, methodically and accurately to achieve the greatest end results.
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Cooling the Transmission Oil
Author: Harold Starbird #495
Tech Tip No. 84-05, 1984
The Ultra Coach Manual shows the front pump body oil cooler bypass valve. In reading the
description about how the hot oil circuit works and examining inside the front pump cover, I
found this bypass valve lets most of the transmission oil bypass the cooler.
I have found three types of front pumps: the first is like the manual picture with a spring loaded
valve. The second is similar with a “pear” shaped cavity. The third has a cavity shaped like a
slanted rectangle. These cavities let the hot oil bypass partially inside the cover. (In other words,
all of the hot oil does not go to the cooler).
To make all the oil go through the cooler, I did as follows:
Using a pump with the rectangle cavity, clean it with carb cleaner and dry with compressed air.
Fill the cavity with a metal type two part epoxy. File and sand smooth after 24 hours. Installed the
cover and torqued bolts to specs.
External mounted cooler is a “SWIRL” type #651 from Perma Coil, P.O. Box 854, Glendora, CA
213-963-7212. New Aeroquip hose #2556 and socketless fittings #4738-2-4B & #4797-4B were
used to hook the cooler to the transmission.
Previous to the change, the coolest I could run on the flat was 190 degrees F and in the mountains,
230 degrees F, at that temperature, I would stop and cool the transmission down for 15 minutes.
Now, the transmission temperature in flat country is 145 and goes slightly higher in the mountains
or on hot days. No more stops are needed to cool the transmission down and the engine runs
cooler too. My rig (#495) loaded weighs 5,800 pounds.
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Engine Cooling with Water (Corvair)
Tech Tip No. 85-05, 1985
Those of you who pull heavy loads with your Ultra and sustain high engine temperatures might
consider the following:
Install a windshield washer pump, tubing and spray nozzle from a junked Corvair (early or late) to
spray water inside the blower wheel fan pulley.
Spraying water at this location has proved very effective on #232. Within 30 seconds of the pump
going on, I can see the cylinder head temperature start to come down, even though I am still
climbing the hill.
Installation:
First, mount the pump inside the outer compartment to the refrigerator and pick-up water supply
by drilling a hole for the water pick-up tube in the water filler hose (not the water pump supply
hose). Cut the end of the tubing on a 45° before inserting so there is no chance of the tube sealing
itself on the bottom of the tank from the suction. I used plastic tubing (rigid) in lieu of rubber.
If you have a transmission cooler, you can route a separate piece of tubing from a “tee” fitting off
of the engine cooling water line to cool the oil cooler. Plug the end of that tube at the cooler. Drill
not more than four holes with a #60 drill bit in the side of the tube that faces the cooler. The pump
will put out enough to cool both.
Route the tubing to the engine compartment and install an aluminum bracket at the forward center
area of the cooling fan opening to attach the washer spray nozzle. Shape the nozzle to fit inside of
the fan pulley, clearing the pulley, carburetor, cross shaft, etc. You will note there are two holes on
the pulley lower outer edge, 180 degrees apart. Centrifugal force will eject the water out of those
holes and distribute it across the cylinder heads.
Note: If a Corvair nozzle is not available, use a piece of tubing with the end crimped close and
drill an orifice of about the size of a #60 drill in the end.
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Engine Valve Push Rod Inspection
Tech Tip No. 85-07, 1985
Push rods from the early style engine are prone to fracture at the end next to the rocker arm. Early
engine push rods had a different shaped wall section at the rounded ends (see sketch below).
early
late
cross section sketch
After extensive miles or extreme recurring heating of the rod end next to the rocker arm, it can
fracture causing the ends to crumble and then the rocker arm would be loose causing excessive
tappet noise and losing alignment with the valve stem stopping operation of the valve.
Early push rods can be distinguished from the late style by comparing the hole in the end. The late
style appears to have a chamfer inside the hole and it appears larger, although it is slightly smaller.
The first indication of a failure on the early style rods are small cracks radiating out of the holes in
the end. A 10-power magnifying glass is a good tool for this inspection. Discard all push rods
showing any sign of cracks.
Other inspections to determine the usefulness of a rod is to check for straightness by rolling the
rod over a flat surface such as a pane of glass or a machinists surface table. Discard any that show
signs of warpage. Also inspect for excessive wear of the area that rubs the hole in the rocker arm
guide. Any ridge, corrosion, pitting, or excessive wear would be cause for rejection.
The part number for the GM push rod is 3839661. No data could be found to indicate any other
number was used previously.
Add cross section sketch from spring 1985 newsletter.
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Automatic Transmission Fluid Overflow
Tech Tip No. 85-08, 1985
Most of us with automatic transmissions in our Corvairs have at one time or another lost fluid out
of the overflow vent on the forward upper side of the transmission, as a result of hot days, pulling
up a long hill, etc. After having cleaned the engine/transmission area on my Ultra rebuilding the
transaxle, engine and repainting all parts, I was determined to trap the overflow fluid after it made
a mess of the above noted areas on a recent trip. I used a plastic quart container that you purchase
90 weight oil in, made by “Sta-Lube” and others. A holding bracket was made for the container
and it was mounted upside down on the left triangle web that is beside the transmission. A rubber
hose was attached to the transmission vent pipe, after the cap was removed (see sketch below) and
the hose was routed around to the top of the plastic bottle. Holes were cut in the top and aft side.
Hose was installed in the top hole and another smaller (vent) hose was inserted in the aft side and
directed downward so no water can flow into the container.
about 2”
remove cap
auto
trans
hose to container
position to vent
freely
before modification
Silicone sealer was used to seal the hoses in the container. Position the hose from the vent pipe on
the transmission so no fluid will be trapped in the hose.
Reason? The transmission has to be able to vent freely, otherwise, heat expansion may force the
fluid up the filler tube into the engine compartment and you really will have a mess. Occasionally,
visually check the container and when needed, unscrew the cap on the bottom and drain the
trapped fluid. “A clean machine is a good running machine”, someone said that.......
(parts list on next page)
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Parts required:
3 screw type 1/2” hose clamps
1 tube Silicone Sealer
3 ft. 1/4” ID Neoprene Hose
1 elbow 1/4” ID 90 degree
1 “Sta-Lube” quart container
2 clamps to attach hose to transmission web
1 ft. 1/8” ID vent hose
1 piece of soft 0.050” aluminum 12” x 4” for bottle bracket
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Tool – Engine Remove/Install – Corvair
Tech Tip No. 85-13, 1985
This tool allows the removal/installation of the complete engine/transaxle assembly as a single
unit, either on the road or at home. It is designed to be taken apart and carried in the coach.
Material List:
Rod #1 1/2” threaded rod, 36 inches long
Rod #2 1/2” threaded rod, 36 inches long
-2- 1/2” steel plate 3 1/4” x 3 1/4” drill and tap to match threaded rod
-3- 1/2” steel plate 3 1/4” x 3 1/4” drill and tap to match threaded rod
-4- Plywood 3/4” x 8” x 12”
-5- (Qty 2) Bolts 3/8” x 7 1/2” with nuts & washers
-6- Steel 2” x 2” angle iron with 1/2” hole
-7- Hex Bolt with nut & washer 1/2” x 2” fine thread
-8- (Qty 2) Nuts matching threaded rod, cotter keyed to end of rod
-9- (Qty 2) Bearing, Ball Thrust
-10- (Qty 2) Nuts matching threaded rod, brazed to end of rod
-11- Cap screw and nut 1/2” x 6”
-12- 1/2” steel plate 3 1/4” x 3 1/4” drilled to clear threaded rod
-13- 1/4” chain, welded to sides of plate as shown
-14- Steel strap 3/8” x 1” x 5”
-15- 12 feet of 2” x 4”
See the next page for a detailed drawing.
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Lifting Fixture for Corvair Engine & Transaxle
52”
nail & glue
together
-3-
-2-
typ.
2” x 4”
#1 rod hole
drill wood 3/4”
#2 rod hole
drill wood 3/4”
15”
-4weld – typ. 2 places
-13-10-6-7-
#1 rod – 1/2” althread – 36” long
-12-10-
-9-
-8-
weld
#2 rod – 1/2” althread – 36” long
-12-
-9-
-8-
-14-11-
NOTE: #1 rod attaches to rear engine mount with -6- and -7-, #2 rod attaches to eyelet in bellhousing.
CAUTION: support rear of engine with jack to remove rear rubber engine mount to attach -6- and
-7-.
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Repairing Stripped Crankcase Threads
Author: B. Ballew/J. Craig #232
Tech Tip No. 85-14, 1985
Ever had an upper cylinder stud pull loose and wanted a way to install a helicoil without pulling
the heads? Read on. The carbs, top shroud and crankcase cover have to come off unless it is one of
the blind stud hole, in which case the crankcase cover can stay on as there won’t be any dropping
into the crankcase. Engine still in vehicle, takes 2 people.
First making the drill is easy, weld or braze a piece of 3/8” rod to a 25/64” drill to make it at least
12” long. This goes through the head, cylinder stud hole, along the cylinder barrel groove in the
fins so you can drill out the stripped threads in the engine block. Mark the drill so you will drill
the right depth in the blind holes. (Keep your shop vacuum running to suck up the aluminum drilling chips).
Second, the Helicoil 3/8” tap won’t go through the hole in the head so a long handle for it must be
made up.
The end of the tap is ground to a 1/4” square to fit a 1/4” drive extension. The big end of the 1/4”
extension is ground down to go through the 3/8” hole in the head. A piece of rod is brazed in the
middle of the extension to make it at least 12” long (two 6” extensions could be ground down). To
use the tap tool, place the tap against the drilled hole in the engine block. Insert the extension
through the head and connect to the end of the tap, attach the tee handle or your ratchet to the
square end of the extension and carefully put pressure on tap to begin cutting threads. Use lots of
cutting oil, mark the tap to get the right depth and again, use the vacuum to suck up all the chips.
Third, the Helicoil installer in the kit is plastic and has a diamond shaped handle that won’t turn in
close quarters of the cylinder fins and crankcase. It looked easy to make a new tool from a 12”
piece of rod, but little did I know. I decided to practice on a junked engine.
1. Drilled out stripped threads, all OK, (don’t push hard)
2. Tapped the hole. All OK
3. Inserted installer tool without a coil. Helicoil won’t go through hole in head. Try putting
installer through hole and but coil on inserter after. Put coil on threaded end and tried to
screw the coil into the threaded hole, with coil nearly in, things got tight and the installer
jammed. The coil distorted, messing things up in general. Tried again in another prepared
hole, same thing. I compared my tool with the plastic inserter and found the plastic
threads were cut real deep, much more than a regular bolt. I thought cheaper bolts might
have deeper threads, none did. I remembered some threaders have a split die to cut deeper
threads. Couldn’t find one for 3/8” x 16, so took a regular round die and set about to cut a
slot. Being so hard, after many try, I finally cut it with a carbide grit rod. Don’t try it until
you have an afternoon to kill. As shown in the drawing, I cut a slot and a notch, when I
tighten the holding screw on the die handle, it finally cut the threads deep enough for my
installer to work great.
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Fourth, the Helicoil. The thickness of the threaded hole in the engine block is just over / “long, not
really enough to take the torque required for the cylinder bolt. You have to cut a regular helicoil
down to 5 coils. With a little practice on the square edge of a grinding wheel, that can be done. I
install a complete helicoil in first, knock off the tang with a 1/4” rod and then install the partial
helicoil up against the full one and again knock off the tang with the 1/4” rod. And that’s it!
Special Tools
Helicoil installation (cylinder head/barrel studs)
25/ ”
64
drill
weld - braze
12”
3/ ”
8
ground to 1/4” square
tap 3/8” helicoil – 3/8 x 16 NL
weld
dia.
1/ ”
4
12”
1/ ”
4
dia. rod
3/ ”
8
drive 6” extension
weld
6” long added length
handle 1/4” rod
special cut 3/8” threads (3/8” x 16 NL helicoil installer – cut extra deep
with adjustable die)
12”
1/ ”
4
rod
4”
weld
dia. rod – for breaking off helicoil tangs
12”
See drawings on the next page.
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Adjustable Die
cut slot
3/ ”
8
x 16 NL
cut notch
Note: arrows indicate locations of
2 of the 6 stud holes that can be
repaired with the special tools.
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An Engine Tune-Up Procedure – Corvair
Tech Tip No. 85-17, 1985
Additional Reference: Tech Tip 84-03 by Len Ryerson (Troubleshooting Poor Engine Performance)
TUNE UP PROCEDURES
This procedure is for a stock engine that is considered to be in basically good condition.
1. TOOLS – REQUIRED
A. 13/16” 3/8” drive spark plug socket, rubber insert
B. 6 and 8 inch 3/8” drive wobble extensions
C. 3/8” Drive Ratchet
D. 3/4” Box-Open End Wrench (15° 3/4” offset box end)
E. Feeler Gauges (wire type for plugs, flat for points)
F. Screwdrivers, blade type (medium and small)
G. Timing Light
H. Dwell Meter, with tachometer preferred
I. Carb Synchronizer or Vacuum Gauge with Tee and hose
J. White Chalk
2. PARTS (NEW) - REQUIRED (EXCEPT AS NOTED)
A. Spark Plugs (6) 44FF or 46FF or equivalent
B. Points, Condenser and Rotor
C. Distributor Cap
D. Spark Plug Wire Set (every two years)
E. Oil Filter
F. Oil (5 quarts)
G. Air Filters (every second tune-up or as warranted)
H. Distributor Primary Wire P/N 1954563
I. Distributor Vacuum Advance Arm Boot P/N 1963610
3. Start engine and warm-up to normal temperature. After engine has reached operating temperature, shut it off and drain the engine oil.
4. While oil is draining, remove the positive and negative cables from the battery (remove the
negative first and re-attach last). Clean battery posts and cable ends.
Use baking soda as required and wash with clean water. Reconnect cables after they have dried.
Remove negative ground cable where it attaches to the engine. Clean and reattach making sure
cable has good contact with engine.
5. Clean oil drain plug and re-install if draining is done.
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6. Remove old oil filter. Fill new oil filter with oil and lubricate rubber seal ring before installing.
Fill engine with rest of 4 quarts.
7. Start engine and check around filter for leaks. Allow filter to get warm before saying it is leakfree.
8. Fill oil to full mark on dip stick.
9. Remove distributor cap and wires as an assembly, mark #1 plug wire on distributor cap and
note cap position.
10. Remove spark plugs. Check for oily condition on plug tip. If oily, install next hotter heat range
plug. (AC46FFS)
11. Gap plugs to specifications and install. Torque to 20 – 25 ft. lbs. (gap specs 0.030” – 0.035” as
required)
12. Remove rotor, points and condenser.
A. Clean and lubricate point plate
B. Install points and condenser, rotate engine counter-clockwise to position point rubbing
block on high point of distributor cam.Set points to specification using a flat feeler gauge
(0.019”). Check condition of primary wire for cracking, hardness, etc. Replace if necessary.
C. Install new Lube Wick #1852935 or lube cam lightly
D. Install new dust shield, rotor, and distributor cap (make sure cap is completely seated on
distributor).
E. Install new spark-plug wiring to distributor cap, starting with #1 wire. Use old distributor
cap and wiring assembly as a guide. Verify correct wire order as noting the firing order (14-5-2-3-6) stamped on the right rear corner of the top engine shroud.
F. Hook-up dwell meter and timing light (Use instructions that come with these units).
G. Highlight timing marks on harmonic balancer with white chalk. Note: experienced persons can bypass the start and run phase and go on to carburetor adjustment.
H. Start engine and warm to normal temperature. Note: If engine will not start, check spark
plug wires for correct location and check points for correct gap.
Carburetor Tuning
I. Establishing Mechanical Synchronization of Carburetors
1. Remove air cleaner and housing from carburetors. Disconnect throttle attach rods to carburetors from the throttle cross-shaft.
2. Unscrew idle speed adjustment screw on both carburetors until they do not touch the throttle shaft arms with the choke held in the full open position.
3. Re-adjust idle screws, using a business card or a strip of paper between the screw end and
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throttle arm so that there is a light drag felt on the paper when pulled between these metal
parts. (both carburetors)
4. Connect throttle attach rod of right carburetor to the throttle cross-shaft (lubricate with
light grease)
NOTE: Verify the throttle cross-shaft does not bottom-out on the blower bearing shaft or belt
retainer bracket with right carburetor throttle valve in the closed position. If arm hits, pull
up until shaft clears.
NOTE: Disconnect choke rod from each carburetor before proceeding with the rest of carburetor adjustments.
5. While holding the right carburetor throttle shaft in the closed position, adjust the left throttle rod until it will just enter the hole in the throttle cross-shaft turn adjusting pin one turn
higher and install cross-shaft. Tighten idle screws on carburetors 2 full turns.
NOTE: The carburetors should now be mechanically matched.
II. ADJUSTMENT OF CHOKE VALVE
Hold choke valve in the fully closed position. Adjust the choke rod until it will just enter the
hole in the check valve arm, then unscrew rod two more turns and install to choke valve arm.
(applies to both carburetors)
III. IDLE JET ADJUSTMENT
1. Adjust idle jet by tightening the screw until it hits bottom very lightly (DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN OR TIP OF SCREW CAN BREAK OFF). Then back off screw 11/2 turns on
both carburetors.
NOTE: Verify the balance tube rubber hoses are attached and are not leaking air at the points
on the heads behind the carburetors.
2. Any further carburetor idle speed screw-adjustment or idle mixture adjustment must be
duplicated on both carburetors.
IV. CARBURETOR BALANCE-TIMING-IDLE SPEED & MIXTURE ADJUST
1. Start engine and warm to operating temperature
2. Remove distributor vacuum advance hose from right hand carburetor spark port tube and
plastic cap from left carburetor and connect vacuum gauge to each pipe.
NOTE: Two matched gauges will give the best results, but one gauge and a “T” fitting will
work. When using a single gauge, pinch hose closed on the gauge to one carburetor and
read vacuum of opposite carburetor, reverse procedure for other carburetor.
3. Disconnect vacuum hose to automatic transmission modulation valve and install a single
vacuum gauge.
4. Start engine, adjust curb idle speed (duplicate adjustment on both carburetors) to obtain
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500 RPM. Adjust idle mixture screws on both carburetors to obtain peak steady vacuum at
given idle speed. Shut engine down.
5. Remove transmission vacuum gauge and return rubber tube to modulator. Re-start engine.
NOTE: When making adjustments to the linkage in the following steps, move the cross-shaft
by grasping the main throttle rod only. Grasping on either end of the cross shaft twists it,
making synchronized adjustments very difficult.
6. Operate engine at 1,100 to 1,200 RPM. Check vacuum of each carburetor individually. If
the difference is one inch or less, the carburetors are vacuum balanced. If the difference is
more than one inch, adjust the left carburetor throttle rod one turn (up to increase and
down to decrease) and re-check vacuum. Make adjustments by disconnecting rod at crossshaft and rotating it in the swivel.
NOTE: It is preferable to have the higher vacuum reading on the right carburetor which is the
side the distributor vacuum advance suction is taken from.
7. Remove vacuum gauges and replace right hand carburetor distributor vacuum advance
hose. and plastic cap on left hand carburetor.
8. Replace Air Cleaners.
NOTE: Always make final idle speed mixture adjustment after installing air cleaners.
9. Reconnect Vacuum gauge to balance tube.
10. Read vacuum at idle speed. If necessary, adjust curb idle speed and mixture screws to get
highest steady vacuum reading between 14 – 18 inches. Turn engine off.
11. Disconnect vacuum gauges and close adapter as required.
NOTE: Disconnect and plug-off vacuum hose from carburetor to distributor during final timing adjustment.
12. Adjust timing as follows:
a. Set dwell to 33° (31° to 34 ° range)
b. Turn distributor left or right to correct advance for your particular engine by aiming timing light at timing marks on the harmonic balancer.
c. Adjust carb idle speed screw to 500 rpm if necessary
d. Remove dwell meter and timing light, replace hose from carburetor to distributor.
e. Take coach for test drive.
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Oil Leak – Out of Corvair Pump Shaft
Tech Tip No. 86-01, 1986
In a San Diego Corvair Club tech-tip a member described how he stopped an oil leak by heli-arc
welding the offending hole shut. My method does the same job without heli-arcing the pump
body.
The Corvair oil pump has two meshed gears, one driven by the distributor shaft, the second gear
on a short hardened steel shaft pressed into the aluminum pump body is driven from the first gear.
The aluminum pump case expands more than the short shaft and lets oil leak out because it goes
right through the pump casting to the outside. By shortening the shaft slightly and plugging the
end of the hole, the oil leak is eliminated.
To plug the end of the hole, get a 1/2” aluminum bolt and cut off the threaded part, leaving an
unthreaded shank. Using a 1/8” pipe die, thread the shank down about 3/8”.
Press out the hardened steel shaft – a good vise does this nicely. Using a 1/8” pipe tap, thread the
hole from the outside until there is about 1/4” of threads inside. Coat the new threads on the end of
the bolt with Permatex #1 or any other good oil resistant sealer and install the plug in the tapped
hole. Don’t use too much force....you don’t want to break the casting. Next, saw off the excess
bolt sticking out of the casting. Using a file to make sure the end of the bolt-plug is flush with the
casting. Now we have an aluminum plug that expands at the same rate as the casting and it should
not leak.
To finish the job, shorten the steel shaft by the length of the plug by grinding it down and measuring with a steel rule. Press it back in the casting.
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Plugging the Fuel Pump Hole
Tech Tip No. 86-02, 1986
After installing an electric fuel pump, I removed the old style pump and filled the hole as follows:
Tap inside the old fuel pump hole with a 1/2” pipe tap, put a lot of grease inside the hole first to
catch the metal chips that would otherwise go down into the engine. After cleaning everything up,
install a 1/2” cast aluminum conduit box plug.
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Fitting Corvair Piston Rings
Tech Tip No. 86-04, 1986
When fitting piston rings in air-cooled engines, allow 0.003” gap clearance for each inch of piston
diameter. This comes to 0.011” gap for Corvair engines. For a good ring job, cylinders should be
honed until round and taper removed, then fit the rings to the cylinder in which they will be used.
I found cylinders measuring 0.006” oversize in diameter fitted with standard rings have an end
gap over 0.030” which is far too much to control oil use. I use 0.020” oversize rings and file the
ends for 0.011” on the compression ring and 0.015” for the oil ring. Knurling or expanding the
piston would help.
When using a free-floating hone, it is quite obvious when the cylinder is cleaned up. However, the
amount of taper is best determined with inside micrometers. Corvair manual calls for a taper of
not over 0.003”, less is better. Ring gap should be measured at the tightest part of the bore. Push
the ring into the cylinder with a piston so it is squarely in place.
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Corvair Rear Engine Mount & Repair
Author: Charlie Smith #348
Tech Tip No. 86-07, 1986
The later style (1965 and later) rear engine mount can fail and allow the engine to drop-down a
foot or more. To say the least, this effects the throttle most severely which usually returns the
engine to the idle position. This always happens when you are forty miles from nowhere.
To inspect, repair or modify it, remove it from the coach. Clean with solvent and scrape all of the
rubber from around the flanges and radius areas of both lower flanges. Apply TOP and BOTTOM
Mag particles or Dye Penetrant and inspect for cracks in and around the radius areas of the lower
flanges. Replace if any cracks are found over 3/8” long. Otherwise, stop-drill the crack with a #30
drill and deburr hole. Cut a piece of 1/8” or 3/16” steel plate to width and length of both lower
flanges combined. Drill holes in plate to fit over the two threaded studs. Electric weld around
perimeter of flange and plate. Repaint and re-install.
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Loose Pinion Gear Inspection
Author: Mel Dineson #200
Tech Tip No. 86-08, 1986
With the number of pinion gears that have failed recently in various Corvair powered Ultra Vans,
it’s time to set-up an inspection criteria.
The pinion gear can be easily viewed from the top of the rear axle assembly even when installed
in the coach by simply removing the top cover of the rear axle assembly.
First clean off all dirt and grease, blow away debris with an air hose. Next, solvent wash entire top
area. Remove bolts, top cover and cork gasket (GM P/N 6255758 or Clark’s Corvair Parts P/N
C6020). Check the pinion gear for forward and aft movement as well as axial.
By hand, see if gear will move in any of the above directions, if not, use a large screwdriver or pry
bar to force the gear in any of the above directions. If no visual movement is evident, try to insert
a 0.001”/0.003” feeler gauge at forward and aft ends of the gear. There should be NO clearance at
either end of the gear.
If over 0.005” clearance is found, the pinion shaft bearings are on their way out as well as the
teeth on the ring and pinion ears. Slight axial movement could be evident as a result of normal
wear of the ring and pinion teeth faces.
To check for excessive axial movement of pinion, jack-up one rear wheel, release parking brake,
shift lever to neutral if you don’t have posi-traction and hold the pinion shaft with large vise-grips
or pipe wrench, try to rotate gear in both directions. NO MOVEMENT IS GOOD. Even slight
movement, tear down and overhaul. If it spins completely around – You’ve had it partner. Replace
or overhaul.
Re-install cover with new gasket if no movement is found. Check for proper fluid level. Re-check
every 4,000 miles or sooner. If new unit is installed, do first check at 10,000 miles or sooner.
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Tool – Automatic Transmission Modulator
Tech Tip No. 86-10, 1986
The Corvair and V8 PowerGlide automatic transmissions have a modulator valve assembly that
occasionally becomes defective. To remove and install a new valve requires a special wrench to do
the job correctly. In an emergency, the modulator valve can be removed and re-installed with
channel lock pliers. There is a chance of damaging the new valve on installation, which may be
overcome by making or buying a tool with the following specifications: no thicker than 3/16”, at
least 71/2” long, open end with 1” between the flats, head can be in line with handle but a 15° offset is preferable and the whole tool is completely flat.
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Low Octane Adjustments
Author: Mel Dinesen #200
Tech Tip No. 86-15, 1986
Quoted from “Burgee”, The South Coast Nautical Magazine 4/86
The availability of gasoline is now not as much of a concern as in the past. However, the falling
octane rating should be of major concern.
The problem of unleaded fuels is not the loss of lead, but more importantly, the lower octane level.
Low octane gasoline can cause uncontrolled burning in the combustion chamber(s).
The most immediate and obvious result is “knock” or “ping”. If not corrected, pre-ignition will
cause major problems with engine components. Melted piston, cracked head, burnt valves, and
broken rings can all be the result of uncontrolled fuel detonation. In most cases, engines can be
adjusted to run on low or unleaded fuel of less than optimum quality in one of two ways. It is
important to remember, you want to reduce the uncontrolled rate at which the gasoline burns.
The most common method is to retard the engine timing by as much as 5°. This change only
requires the use of a timing light. Another method is much more involved and requires a reduction
of engine compression. Depending on the type of motor, this is done by changing head gaskets,
pistons or in some cases the entire cylinder head. All costly, but far less expensive than the results
of combustion chamber detonation.
Always use the highest octane gasoline available. Never use fuel containing any portion of alcohol
or methanol as these artificially raise the octane numbers, and attract unwanted moisture in the
fuel system.
Any modification made may result in a small loss of power due to the retarding of the ignition
timing or reduction of the compression ratio, or both. The effect on engine performance should be
minimal.
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Update – Rear Engine Mount
Author: Michael Volg #343
Tech Tip No. 86-20, 1986
Reference: Tech Tip 86-07
In the 86-07 Tech Tip, you found out how to inspect & repair the mounts, and that’s fine, but I recommend replacing the 1965 type mount with the later type 1966-1969 which is available from
Clark’s Corvair Parts.
1992 NOTE: New Old Stock are very hard to find, Clark’s have old units re-built. The parts
required are as follows:
1969 Motor Mount P/N C8059; $109.80 less $20 with old core
Special Washer P/N C1590; $3.85
Hardened Lock Nuts P/N C1224; $0.85
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Crankshaft Gears – Identification
Tech Tip No. 86-21, 1986
In the process of rebuilding a 140 HP Corvair engine, I found there was no part number or position identifying marks on crankshaft gears (D) & (E) in the accompanying chart, (drawing below
on next page) with the exception of an 1/8” drill mark on (E). I observed that by holding the gear at
eye level with the gear teeth on the far side and looking through the bolt hole under the alignment
mark on the upper flange, I could see part of one gear tooth. By relating the position of the gear
tooth to the hole, you can positively identify which part number it is. See the accompanying
sketches for gears (A thru D) and (E & I) on the next page.
Gears (A to D) are made to give the crankshaft a 4° retard. These gears are used in only 1965 to
1969* engines when applied with the automatic transmission application.
* (only the following: 1965/66 (4/1BC w/PG) & 1968/69 w/PG
Item (H) is the complete assembly. (crank, one gear (A-D) and gasket (either (F) or (G).
Gear (E) was used in all engines with standard transmissions & basic engines with automatic
transmission except 4/1BC w/PG
NOTE: CAUTION – Massive oil leak will be assured if Item (F) or (G) is damaged by hot tank
cleaning solutions or is not installed with new gear.
Gears (A) through (D) when used with camshaft P/N 3839889 makes a good low RPM, high
torque engine. This combination has been recommended in technical articles in recent Corvair
related publications. I have personally built-up three such engine combinations and all are performing as advertised.
Reference:
(A) Sealed Power Gear P/N 221-2529
(B) NAPA Gear P/N 8-2529
(C) Clark’s Gear P/N C 786XP
(D) GM Gear P/N 3885399
(E) GM Gear P/N 3847972
(F) GM – Gasket P/N 3859585
(G) Clark’s Gasket P/N C786A
(H) GM Crankshaft P/N 3875827
(I) Clark’s Gear P/N C786X & (E) are the same
See drawing on the next page.
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crank to cam gear alignment mark
(typ. all)
(A) thru (D)
4° retard
(E) and (I)
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Valve Saver – Lead Substitute
Tech Tip No. 86-29, 1986
With the recent withdrawal of premium leaded fuel by Union Oil Company and their introduction
of Super unleaded fuel, they have available at their stations a “lead substitute” in 12 fl. oz. containers that can be added to their 92 octane Super Unleaded fuel for vehicles that require leaded
fuel. It comes in a white plastic bottle identified as “Valve Saver”, Lead Substitute. Price $1.75
each plus tax. Treat Rate: “One bottle every other tankful of gasoline.” This is the instruction on
the bottle.
My recommendation, is to use a full container every other 20 gallons as most of the older cars had
a twenty gallon tank. If you top-off your 30 gallon Ultra tank each time, use 11/2 bottles every
other fill-up.
It figures out to 4 cents more per gallon on top of what you pay for fuel.
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What Fuel To Use?
Tech Tip No. 87-06, 1987
Most areas of the U.S. now only have “regular leaded”, unleaded regular and super unleaded
grades of gasoline. We are fortunate because the engines in our Ultras (Corvair and Chev V8) will
perform with the new unleaded fuels without any adverse problems, unless you are towing
another Ultra. Both types of engines mentioned have harden valve seats and with a little common
sense in the proper use of existing fuels, we should get a lot of mileage out of our existing
engines.
It is a proven fact that “lead” added to gasoline lubricates the valves, seats and guides in addition
to raising the octane rating in some cases. (NOTE: Oil additives and engine oil added to the gasoline reduces the octane rating.)
So, what is recommended? The following will provide overall good results, but can be improved
by the addition of costly fuel additives like: 104 Octane, etc.
Type of Engine
Fuel Type of Mix Ratio
#1: high compression
3 gal. Regular Leaded with 7 gal. Super Unleaded
#1: low compression
3 gal. Regular Leaded with 7 gal. Regular Unleaded
#2: high compression
Super unleaded with additive mixed every other tank fill-up
#2: low compression
Regular Leaded only
Take your choice of #1 or #2, whichever works good with your particular engine.
Most gasoline suppliers have a “lead substitute” you can buy at their stations. Approximate cost is
$1.50 to $2.00 a pint.
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Spark Plug Cables (Corvair)
Tech Tip No. 87-07, 1987
There are possibly quite a number of manufacturers that make spark-plug cables for the Corvair
engine, but the four listed below have proven to be of good quality.
1. Clark’s Corvair Parts – “Magwire” #C4636 $21.75 a set Radio & TV suppression (very
good) has original type boots
2. Otto Parts – “Silicone Wire” #PW-164 $20.00 a set Radio & TV suppression (very good)
has original type boots
3. Silicone Wire Systems – Original GM style $30.00 a set (very good), 3462 Kirkwood
Drive, San Jose CA 95117
4. Borg Warner – “Koolwire” 5 year warranty $17.95 a set. Order from local supplier; has
original type boots
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Pan Gaskets – Engine & Automatic Trans
Tech Tip No. 87-09, 1987
An excellent gasket for the engine and automatic transmission oil pans is made by “Fel-Pro”.
These are a rubber type composite material. They are available from your local auto parts store.
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Adjustment of Corvair Valve Lifters
Author: Harold Starbird #495
Tech Tip No. 87-14, 1987
The following is from the Corvair Underground catalog. Their address, later...
Lifters have been the subject of much hocus-pocus and voodoo (some of it legitimate). We have
had definite experience with lifters and Corvairs, some of which we wish we hadn’t had.
Please believe the lifters we recommend here are because of years of sometimes painful experiences!
Yes there are cheaper lifters on the market, BUT – don’t use them! As it is, the more “expensive”
lifters suffer from what is, quite frankly, less than perfect quality control. Now this little QC problem doesn’t give V8 people the fits, but sure drives Corvair people crazy! The reason is because
DESPITE WHAT SOME PEOPLE TELL YOU, there are NO real-live Corvair lifters on the market today. The lifters we sell are small block V8 lifters...they have the closest characteristics that
resemble the old Corvair lifters, BUT!...they do not have the same wide operating range.
What this means is you will probably be unable to adjust your valves to anywhere near factory
specs. Here are our suggestions for adjusting 1980’s Corvair lifters.
ADJUSTING NON-CORVAIR LIFTERS that are used in a CORVAIR With valve covers off (see
tool section for special 1/3 valve covers) and engine warmed up, take all the lifters to “ZERO
LASH”. This is where the knocking sound JUST quits. Shut the engine off and take all lifters
down 1/4 to 1/2 turn.
You can try going further down if you like, but remember, if the engine runs rough, even after road
testing, you will have to back them off. Why can’t you take them down 1 to 11/2 turns like in the
original shop manual? Because, unless you are lucky and have an old set of original Corvair lifters, the lifters YOU HAVE do not have as wide an operating range. (It is not necessary in a watercooled V8!) What happens if you go further? The lifters “bottom-out” and as the valves are not
allowed to seat....guess what....no compression!
The Corvair Underground
P.O. Box 404
Hillsboro, OR 97123
503-283-2610
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Automatic Shift Problems
Tech Tip No. 87-16, 1987
The following is from a previously published article by Bob Kirkman in the Corvantics Newsletter.
SYMPTOM: Transmission downshifts abruptly from drive to low above 50 MPH when the gas
pedal is released, then stays in low, until the power train cools.
FIX: With the transmission still in the vehicle, remove the valve body. Verify the “E” clip is
attached to the end of the throttle valve. If the “E” clip is missing, replacing it will correct the
problem. If the unit was recently rebuilt, it is possible that the clip was never installed.
COMMENT: Wonder how many Power Glides have been rebuilt or exchanged because of this
particular missing or broken 10 cent part.
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Automatic Transmission Fluid Life
Tech Tip No. 87-25, 1987
NOTE: The following data is from a pamphlet put out by the National Automotive Technicians
Certification Board. Automatic transmission fluid is intended to run 100,000 miles before it oxidizes enough to need changing. However, the rate of oxidation doubles for each 20°F rise in temperature over 175°F. Each doubling of this rate cuts the useful life of the fluid in half. When
pulling heavy loads, to prevent serious transmission damage, the fluid must be changed more
often. High speed driving is not considered a “severe” condition as far as deterioration of automatic transmission fluid is concerned.
*** PowerGlides use Dextron Type “A” fluid ***
Temperature, °F
Life
175
100,000 miles
195
50,000 miles
212
25,000 miles
235
12,500 miles
255
5,250 miles
275
3,125 miles
295
1,500 miles
315
750 miles
335
375 miles
375
185 miles
395
90 miles
410
30 minutes
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Best Carburetor Rebuild Kit
Tech Tip No. 88-05, 1988
Having tried a lot of different carburetor rebuild kits for the Corvair engine, I recommend the Echlin Kit #2-5259 from NAPA. One kit required per carburetor. It has good pictures, directions,
gauge and all various gaskets for the different models of carburetors.
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Alternator Substitute Pulley
Author: Warren Suckow #331
Tech Tip No. 88-07, 1988
I had an alternator bearing seize without warning and had to drive 120 miles without the alternator
turning. On a Corvair it is necessary to have something to carry the belt on the alternator side to
keep the engine cooling fan running. The following plate and parts are needed:
1. Extra Corvair Idler pulley
2. Plate as shown (the drawing below is close to full size), 1/8” steel or aluminum
3. 4 ea. 3/8” x 1” NC bolts
4. 4 ea. 3/8” lock washers
5. 4 ea. 3/8” flat washers
6. 2 ea. 3/8” NC nuts
7. New blower belt
Remove alternator, install new plate at holes “A” in place of the alternator. Install Idler pulley at
holes “B”. Adjust belt. Get another alternator soon.
See the drawing on the next page.
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B
attach
to
2”
idler
pulley
B
actual size 1/8” plate steel or aluminum
to rear
A
attach to alternator bolts
up
35/16”
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Engine Oil Temperature
Tech Tip No. 88-08, 1988
Road & Track Dec/87 has a discussion in the Tech Letters column regarding Porsche oil temperatures. It seems that temperatures as high as 260°F are approved for continuous operation. Interesting, they want a minimum of 212°F, to help keep contaminants “boiled off”.
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Oil Seep Fixes – or No Wet Engine
Tech Tip No. 88-20, 1988
Oil seeps around the filler neck can be eliminated with a neat aluminum (made from a beer/pop
can) baffle. Also stops oil from flying out if the cap is left/falls off. Baffle and instructions are
available from Walt Davison #366 for a nominal fee (the really good stuff is never free).
Cost.....SASE plus a dime.
The almost universal seep around the oil pump shaft is a bit “tougher”. In short, remove rear housing, remove steel shaft (the little short one), have the top of the housing aluminum welded over,
grind off the shaft to fit back in the housing with proper clearance to end cover of pump. Put it
together with a pinch of silicone for good measure. Now the oil stays inside, neat? More details
are only a phone call away. If I’m allowed a personal observation, after making these two mods, I
now have a dry engine. Those little oil leaks/seeps that “don’t amount to much”....well they do!
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More on Oil Filters
Tech Tip No. 89-04, 1989
Those of you who attended the 1988 Ultra National participated in a discussion of oils and filters.
The addition of a by-pass type (toilet paper) unit was mentioned. The following is NOT a recommendation, just information. I ran #366 about 16,000 miles on one “filling” of Amoco synthetic
oil. I added a quart about every 3,000 miles and changed the toilet paper in the filter twice. I drive
VERY conservatively. At 50,000 total engine miles, the blower housing was removed to inspect
#6 rod bearing. Condition was SUPER. Cam lobes excellent. Oil pan was removed. Pan was as
clean as I’ve ever seen. It’s all back together now with a new PF-4 filter, a new roll of toilet paper
in the Franz filter and five more quarts of Amoco synthetic 10-30 oil.....Thank you.......Your welcome.
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Auto Transmission Kickdown Adjustment
Tech Tip No. 89-06, 1989
References:
(A) Ultra manual Section 13 Pages 13-20 & 13-29
(B) 1965 Corvair Shop Manual Sec. 6 Page 6-5
If your Corvair automatic transmission will not shift into low gear when you press the accelerator
pedal to the floor at speeds between 20 and 40 MPH, do the following checks:
1. Verify all rubber hoses are tight and in good condition to the vacuum modulator, cylinder
head cross-balance tube carburetor choke vacuum pull-offs and distributor vacuum hose.
2. Disconnect the throttle wire from the TV lever on the left side of the transmission.
3. Disconnect the spring swivel at the aft end of the throttle rod which comes up from the side
of the transmission and attaches to the carburetor cross shaft.
4. Pull aft on the throttle rod until a slight resistance is felt (starting of the detent position),
continue to pull aft until rod can no longer be moved. While holding the rod in this position, move carburetor cross-shaft with the other hand to full throttle open position (verify
the throttle shaft bottoms against the stops on the side of the carburetor.) At this position,
the swivel of the throttle rod should enter the on the tang of the carb cross-shaft. If not,
adjust the swivel fore or aft until correct alignment is achieved. Apply some “Lubriplate”
grease to the swivel pin and tang, then re-install swivel and return spring.
5. Verify that the carburetor throttle shafts return to the full idle position. If not, see Reference
B or Tech Tip 85-17 for synchronization of carburetors.
6. Reinstall throttle wire to TV lever while pulling wire taut in the rear direction.
7. Place a 3/4” thick piece of wood under the tip of the accelerator pedal, have an assistant
apply full throttle slowly while you verify the carburetor throttles open fully. If they need
only a slight movement to open fully, remove 3/4” block and retest.
8. Road test and confirm the transmission will drop into low gear under the following conditions:
A. With shift lever in “Drive” position, accelerate with slight throttle until you feel the
transmission shift from low to high. At that point, apply full throttle and transmission
should shift back to low. Hold pedal to the floor and watch speedometer to confirm
when the transmission shifts to high (it should be between 38 and 42 MPH). Nice, huh?
B. Find a long hill that you can run up at least around 45 to 50 MPH in high gear. Apply
full throttle and hold it there. As the Ultra slows on the hill, the transmission should
automatically down-shift to low at between 35 and 45 if everything else is OK.
Note: the downshift speed will depend on load of the engine caused by the steepness of the hill.
Power – Corvair
Table Of Contents
Power – Corvair
287
Spark Plugs – Corvair Engines
Tech Tip No. 89-24, 1989
Several Ultra owners are using the following spark plugs with good results:
Bosch #WR7BP, Platinum Tip with extended range (hotter)
NGK #B5HS, (broader heat range than original AC-44FF)
NGK #BP5HS (extended tip, (hotter))
Power – Corvair
Table Of Contents
Power – Corvair
288
Valve Spring/Seal Replacement
Tech Tip No. 90-04, 1990
In talking to an old mechanic recently about how to fix a broken Corvair valve spring along the
roadside, he mentioned a way so simple, it amazed me I had not heard of it before.
Most of us who twist a wrench know how to use air pressure to hold a valve against its seat while
a spring or stem seal is changed, but what can you do out on the road where there is no compressed air?
After the cover is off, remove the nut, ball and rocker of the valve to be worked on to ensure the
valve is tight on the seat. Remove the spark plug and feed about 3 feet of cotton or nylon sash cord
(about 1/4” dia.) through the spark plug hole into the cylinder just as the piston is beginning the
compression stroke, leave about 6” of cord hanging out.
With all the plugs out, it is not usually hard to turn the motor over with the crank pulley. As the
piston comes up, the cord fills the combustion chamber, blocking the valve up. Turn until just
snug, but not so far as to make it hard to back off to get the cord out.
When the valve is blocked, compress the spring using a tool like the KD No. 914, bolted to the
rocker stud to lever the spring down so the stem keepers can come out. Do only one valve at a time
so there is no chance of mixing up the springs and keeper parts.
When done, gently rock the crank backward to release the cord then on to the next valve if necessary.
valve spring compressor
Power – Corvair
Table Of Contents
Power – Corvair
289
Ping Control (new product)
Author: Ed Harrison #324
Tech Tip No. 90-07, 1990
Ping Control allows timing to be adjusted a total of 15°. Driver can set it with a knob control on
the dash. Verified on a V8 only. Contact your local speed shop or the maker for other applications.
Cost: $102.85.
Manufacturer: Autotronic Controls Corp.
1490 Henry Brennan Dr.
El Paso, TX 79936
Phone: 915-857-5200
Power – Corvair
Table Of Contents
Power – Corvair
290
Filters – Oil & Air
Tech Tip No. 90-10, 1990
The following listed brands/numbers fit the Corvair:
Oil Filters
Air Filters (late single style)
AC PF-4
AC A178CW, A333C
Fram PH-4
Fram CA-192
Hastings P-215
Lee AFL 178
Lee LF-14
Motorcraft FA 31R
Motorcraft FL-8
Sears 45277
Wix DC-38-C, 51038
Purolator AFP 67
Walker WD-140 A, B, C
Power – Corvair
Table Of Contents
Power – Corvair
291
Rear Engine Mount – Corvair
Tech Tip No. 90-18, 1990
The rear engine mount on some Corvair-powered Ultras has failed, allowing the engine to drop at
the rear. This is very embarrassing, and a drag, to say the least. Hmmm? Owners that have had this
happen report the engine comes back to idle and you coast to the curb, with sparks flying as the
engine drags along on the rear skid plate.
To eliminate this from happening, several items have to be checked, then repairs or replacement of
parts may be needed. First: verify your style engine mount, there are 3. See Figure 38 on Page
166.
(A) Support rear of the engine. Remove the two attach bolts that secure the mount to the rear bulkhead. Verify that the steel spacer that the two bolts go through and the flat steel plate that fits
into the back side of the mount are in place. Look for cracks and/or other damage. Reinstall
mount and attach plate to engine with new nut, washer and cotter key.
(B) This is the bad one. It was used on quite a few Ultras and was first used on the early 1965
Corvair cars. It worked OK on the cars, but not on the Ultra.
REASON: GM designed it with a steel flange that would contact a steel crossmember at the rear
of the engine compartment to keep the engine from falling to the ground if it failed in the car.
So! guess what Ultra did? Yep, you guessed it, they sawed the darn flange off. Now you know the
rest of the story. Remove ASAP and replace with type (C).
Type (B) and (C) attach to the engine with a special two hole washer/ spacer and special histrength steel lock nuts. These are available from Clark’s Corvair or Francis Boydston #435 (also
mounts [A] and [C]).
This mount is fail safe. Even though the rubber fails, a big steel cross bolt prevents the mount
from dropping the engine. BUT! The lower flanges of the mount where it attaches to the engine
are known to break occasionally. Rare, but they do!
Support engine and remove mount, clean and inspect closely for bending, cracks and distortion at
the flanges. Repair/ Replace as necessary.
NOTE: Use special Washer/Spacer and Nuts as noted above.
See mount sketches in the Ultra Manual Section 13, page 9.
SPECIAL CAUTION: Install all attach nuts for rubber engine mount to engine VERY tightly.
See drawing on the next page.
Power – Corvair
292
flange sawn off
(A)
(C)
(B)
two hole washer
Power – Corvair
Table Of Contents
Power – Corvair
293
Power – V8
V8 Overheating – this easy tip may prevent overheating
V8 New Replacement Engines – check your GM dealer for several V8 options
V8 New Replacement Engines Update – there is yet another V8 option
Table Of Contents
Power – V8
294
V8 Overheating
Tech Tip No. 71-07, 1971
For those who are experiencing overheating problems, try a baffle of aluminum between the top of
the rear bumper and tail end of the body. This will prevent hot air from the fan being drawn up and
recirculated through the radiator.
Power – V8
Table Of Contents
Power – V8
295
V8 New Replacement Engines
Tech Tip No. 90-03, 1990
Looking for a replacement engine for your Ultra V8? Your local GM (Chev) dealer has the following three engines available at this time.
The first two are the standard 350 and 305 cu.in. engines priced at $1,280 and $1,235. They come
minus the carburetor, alternator and exhaust manifolds. These prices are already discounted
assuming you know someone in the automotive field that can buy it for you.
In case you want the Ultra to really move out, consider the third engine, called the 350 C.I./345
HP High Output Engine. It is identified as Chevrolet Part Number 10134338. Other than greater
horsepower, the other benefit of this engine is it is 250 lbs. lighter than your present Ultra V8. (It
has aluminum heads and intake manifold.)
The specifications are too numerous to note here, so refer to Hot Rod magazine, March 1989,
page 62 for details. Back issues can be obtained by calling their office at 213-854-2470.
Engines come less carburetor, exhaust manifolds, distributor, spark plug wiring and alternator
which are different from those used on your Ultra. Price: Listed at $3,200 or $2,700 discounted
through your local repair shop.
Power – V8
Table Of Contents
Power – V8
296
V8 New Replacement Engines Update
Tech Tip No. 90-06, 1990
I noted in the Tech Tip column of the last newsletter (Tech Tip 90-03) that GM had a new V8
engine available. They still do of course, but rumor has it they are thinking about offering the 350
CI. 345 HP, High Output Engine with cast iron heads and intake manifold, in addition to the one
noted in Tech Tip 90-03.
Cost will be a lot less, but it will be heavier. Stay tuned. I’ll print the final news when I get it.
Power – V8
Table Of Contents
Power – V8
297
Electrical
Silent Horn – a simple adjustment can bring a horn back to life
Electric Switch Maintenance – this preventative measure will last indefinitely
Spark Plugs in Corvair Heads – avoid spark plug seizing with this tip
Auxiliary Starter Relay – improve starter efficiency with a Ford relay
Timing Tool – Cut Top Off Distributor Cap – this tool is useful for several different jobs
Halogen Sealed Beam Headlights – halogens are now legal in all states
Windshield Wiper Arm and Drive – replacement parts for your wiper assembly
Windshield Wiper Shaft Elevators – part number and availability of drum elevators
Vacuum Gauge Installation – it’s easy to add a vacuum gauge
Alternator Warning Light for V8s – a Corvair warning light will work with V8s
Alternator Warning Light – details on adding a warning light
Electrical – Inside Lights Inoperative – causes of nonworking lights when parked with engine off
Headlights – Dim – find out where the excessive voltage drop is for dim headlights
Windshield Wiper Arms – recommended replacement wiper arms
Get a Charge Out of the Sun – this tip will always keep your battery fresh
Headlight Re-Wiring – details on fixing dim headlights
Windshield Wiper Motor Re-Work – how to make your wiper motor like new again
Bright Light Bulbs – where to get brighter bulbs
Turn Signal Sound Amplifier – a simple tip to get a louder sound
Vega Point Breaker Plate Fits Corvair – this replacement should outlast the vehicle
Bright Bulbs and Low Voltage – fix low voltage problems before adding bright light bulbs
Vega Point Breaker Plate Update – GM part number for Vega breaker plate
Battery Charger – Solar-Powered – never have a dead battery with this accessory
Silicone Spark Plug Wires – recommendations for high quality wires
State of 12 Volt Battery Charge – after-use battery voltage will tell you your battery’s charge
Alternator Rebuild Kit – replacement parts from NAPA
Distributor Rebuild – replace the breaker plate when you replace the points
Fixing the Wiper Park Switch – follow this procedure if your wipers don’t autopark anymore
Instruments – Stewart Warner – part numbers for voltmeter and cylinder head temp instruments
Windshield Water Disburser – Rain-X – try this recommended windshield glass treatment
Shore Line Electrical Connectors – replacement part numbers
Bosch Electric Windshield Wipers – Bosch technical information and distributors
Table Of Contents
Electrical
298
Silent Horn
Tech Tip No. 67-04, 1967
If only one horn sounds when you push the button, locate the silent one by holding your hand on
it. Using a 5/16” wrench, loosen the lock nut of the tone adjustment (just under the center bulge of
the vibrator housing). Re-adjust with a Phillips screwdriver. Now try again.....you’ll sound like a
big Greyhound Bus honking in traffic.
Electrical
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Electrical
299
Electric Switch Maintenance
Tech Tip No. 69-11, 1969
Put a drop of oil...any kind...on each toggle switch especially those in the bathroom. This prevents
internal corrosion caused by moisture. These switches should then last indefinitely.....check yours
now.
Electrical
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Electrical
300
Spark Plugs in Corvair Heads
Tech Tip No. 74-04, 1974
Spark plugs have been known to seize in the Corvair aluminum heads.
Plugs should be removed with the engine cold. Only tighten new plugs to 15 or 20 foot pounds –
NO MORE.
Never use anti-seize compound on the threads.
1992 NOTE: See Ultra Coach Manual Sec 15 page 15-19, point 11, regarding use of anti-seize
compounds.
Electrical
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Electrical
301
Auxiliary Starter Relay
Author: Hank Yakel #391
Tech Tip No. 77-01, 1977
To improve starter efficiency, by providing a shorter path from battery to starter, install a 12 volt
Ford starter relay as shown in the Ultra Manual, Section 15, Page 24. The relay is available at Pep
Boys at $3.25.
Electrical
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Electrical
302
Timing Tool – Cut Top Off Distributor Cap
Tech Tip No. 77-06, 1977
A useful tool for checking compression, setting valve lifter lash, timing-in the distributor is an old
distributor cap which has had the top cut-off it. The modified cap is installed on the distributor and
the engine can be turned over while you watch where the rotor is.
Electrical
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Electrical
303
Halogen Sealed Beam Headlights
Tech Tip No. 79-07, 1979
These new halogen lamps give off double the light on high beam over the stock incandescent
headlights. They are now legal in all states. It is safer not to drive at night, but when you do, these
extra good lights are very welcome. Be certain they are properly adjusted.
Electrical
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Electrical
304
Windshield Wiper Arm and Drive
Tech Tip No. 81-06, 1981
Excessive wear occurs in the serrations on the Bosch Drive shaft and on the adaptor/spacer ID and
OD and in the ID of the wiper arm. Some have come off while operating and have been lost.
Replace wiper arm with NAPA P/N 60-726 Arm Assembly (same as Trico P/N AL-260). This
eliminates the adaptor/spacer and mounts directly on the Bosch wiper shaft. It may be necessary
to get a TRICO Accessory Kit to attach your present wiper to the new TRICO Arm Assembly. If
the drive serrations on the end of the Bosch Stud Assembly is too worn, the shaft and stud assembly must be replaced.
Electrical
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Electrical
305
Windshield Wiper Shaft Elevators
Author: Amos Bell #542
Tech Tip No. 81-19, 1981
The drum elevators used on Ultra Vans are still available from ANCO through the NAPA stores in
the Tacoma, Washington area, so they should be available in other areas. Ask for: ANCO Drum
Elevator Stock No. 42-75 made by Anderson Co., Gary, IN 46440.
Electrical
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Electrical
306
Vacuum Gauge Installation
Author: Bill Mitchell #276
Tech Tip No. 81-22, 1981
I have not seen a vacuum gauge installation by the Ultra factory. Most members have installed
their own. Use 1/4” or 3/8” aluminum tubing from the dash area to the engine compartment. Use
rubber tubing to connect the gauge and at the engine. Route the tubing the easiest way you can in
your coach. I ran mine from the front wheel well along the emergency brake cable housing under
the center of the coach to the engine. If anyone has or wants further information just drop me a
line.
Electrical
Table Of Contents
Electrical
307
Alternator Warning Light for V8s
Tech Tip No. 82-08, 1982
The same type of warning light as used on the Corvair can be installed in the V8 coaches to warn
of an inoperative alternator.....as from a lost belt, loose connector, etc. Just use the Corvair diagrams.
Electrical
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Electrical
308
Alternator Warning Light
Tech Tip No. 82-11, 1982
Loss or breakage of the Corvair blower belt or V8 fan belt (with resulting fast overheating of
engine) instantly stops the alternator charging. Earlier Ultras using warning lights for Alternator
and oil pressure (see Manual DWG:15-DO) already have this feature – BUT – one may wish to
put in a larger or brighter bulb. For INSTANT WARNING, a bright warning light can be quite easily installed on the instrument panel, which will “Light-up” whenever the ignition switch is “ON”
and the alternator is not charging. The warning light goes “OUT” when the engine starts and the
alternator starts charging. Later Ultras, with an ammeter DO NOT have such an INSTANT
WARNING light feature. See the drawing below left.
65
warning light
4 3 2F
SPECIAL NOTE #2
66
67
voltage reg
R
“if necessary”
9A
9
to 4 on VR
F
B
alternator
ignition switch
3
to ignition
switch
48
to ignition
coil
68
to starter
solenoid
SPECIAL NOTE #1: The warning light must be the type where the bulb is not grounded on
either side of the filament. In other words, the entire assembly is above ground as the negative or
minus (-) side of the circuit is grounded within the voltage regulator system.
SPECIAL NOTE #2: See the dotted area on the drawing...On many Ultras, a fuse block with 3
fuses is mounted under the coffee bar and (+) positive current is fed to this fuse block only when
the ignition switch is “on”. This is a good place to attach the Positive (+) wire for the light rather
than going to the ignition switch, thus eliminating the wire marked “if necessary” on the diagram.
SPECIAL NOTE #3: A new wire (about #16) is needed from post #4 on the voltage regulator to
one leg of the new warning light. If not used before, most Ultras already have 1 to 3 spare wires
running from behind the dash to the engine compartment. They are marked #11, #25 and #26.
Some Ultras have a warning light in the engine compartment as shown in the drawing. If you
install the “New Warning Light” up front on the instrument panel, remove wires #9 and #9A as
they are no longer needed. The light bulb assembly used in the rear is just the type to be used upfront, as it is made to be “above ground”. See the drawing above right.
Electrical
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Electrical
309
Electrical – Inside Lights Inoperative
Tech Tip No. 83-04, 1983
Reference: Drawings DWG 15-J and DWG 15-DH.
Problem: Interior lights inoperative if parked, but work with engine running.
Solution: The 30 amp reset type circuit-breaker usually located just under the battery master
switches may be bad. May have tripped and was not reset completely or carpet covering the
area may be preventing a reset or even finding it. Reset knob is BRIGHT RED (with a 30 on
the end) and should be easily seen and reset through a hole in the carpet.
Electrical
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Electrical
310
Headlights – Dim
Tech Tip No. 83-07, 1983
Headlights seem too dim?...Problem is usually too much voltage drop from the battery(s) to the
headlights through small wires, headlight switch and foot dimmer switch.
TO TEST: Engine not running, Headlights “ON”:
1. Check voltage at battery(s) for full charge
2. Check voltage DIRECTLY at each headlight
3. Note voltage drop and record same.
4. Connect temporary wire (at least #10) from master switch bus bar to headlights. Re-check
voltage at headlight and note how much higher it is with the resultant brighter lights.
REMEDY: Where the voltage drop is found to be great, the best fix is to install a dual headlamp
relay with at least a #10 wire from the nearest bus to the input terminal of the relay. Instructions
come with the relay assembly on how to wire it. Further improvement is to install halogen sealed
beam lamps, be sure to check if they are legal in your state before you buy.
You will be amazed and delighted with the results. Also, be sure all contact points in the circuit
are clean and tight, including the battery, ground and bus-bar terminals.
Electrical
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Electrical
311
Windshield Wiper Arms
Tech Tip No. 83-14, 1983
Original Ultra Wipers included an adapter between the wiper arm and the Bosch wiper shaft
which is called the DRUM – ELEVATOR – ANCO P/N 42-75. This was made of a soft metal and
it soon showed wear on both ID & OD serrations. To eliminate this drum and fit the wiper closer
to the windshield, buy and install wiper arm assemblies which fit directly onto the Bosch wiper
shaft. P/N AL-260 Arm Assembly – TRICO or P/N 60-726 Arm Assembly – NAPA Parts Stores.
These are the same units and may be packaged with both numbers on the package. These are
adjustable from 101/2” to 141/2” in length. In addition, you need to buy and install a new Trico
Blade assembly to attach to the above arm.
Electrical
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Introduction
312
Get a Charge Out of the Sun
Author: Arnold Steenburg #507
Tech Tip No. 84-04, 1984
Batteries seem to have a habit of losing their charge when the Ultra sits too long. I did a little
investigating into how to correct the problem. I finally decided on a SOLAR CELL PANEL that
would be working, maintaining the batteries while the coach was sitting or moving.
I bought a Direct Current Solar Battery System, #S-4134 from So. California Solar Works, 11372
Trask, #109, Garden Grove, CA 92643. The equipment was made by Solec International Inc.
12533 Chadon Ave. Hawthorne, CA 90250 Phone 213-970-0065.
A voltage regulator is needed to control the output from the solar panel. The supplier recommended 12 volt unit #SR-1202A. A wiring diagram was furnished and it was a very simple installation. The solar cell is mounted on the roof over the clothes closet and the regulator in the closet.
Result: NO more rundown batteries!
Electrical
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headlight switch
Electrical
313
Headlight Re-Wiring
Tech Tip No. 86-12, 1986
The brightness or dimness of the headlights can be affected by several factors, all of which are
present in our beloved Ultra Van. These are: lengthy small-sized wire runs, at least two switches,
multiple cable connectors and a poor ground.
Please study the wiring diagram below.
Pay no attention to the wire numbers as those used on #334 differ from anything else noted in Len
Ryerson’s excellent Ultra Manual. In my wiring schematic, the headlight relays are used a little
differently than usual. Also, the long run from the battery bus to the Ammeter is TWO No. 12
wires in parallel. This brings the main electrical supply from the rear to the front of the van. Any
large wire will do this if not broken by connectors on the way. The headlight current does not flow
through either the headlight switch or the dimmer (high, low beam) switch. The headlight relays
are mounted very close to the lights.
In this installation, I took the bulb sockets apart and used the brass lamp connectors out of them
and soldered #12 wire directly to the lamp plug-on terminals.
Because of the unfused nature of this circuit, I strongly recommend bushings in any hole drilled
through aluminum ribs. I used short pieces of 5/16” rubber fuel hose for bushings. #12 stranded
wire comes in 500 ft. spools in many colors and white. If you use wire markers you can use all
one color. If you know an electrical contractor or industrial electrician, you can probably get wire
in much shorter lengths. Ask for type THHN or PN. These types have a very tough jacket and are
usually good for up to 600 volts.
Headlight Voltage Maintenance System Installed in #334
R1
ammeter
bus
A
17
hi-beam
heavy wires
batteries
indicator
are two #12’s
31
R1
all wires #12
32
R2
dimmer
switch R2
ALT
fuse
block
R1 and R2 are headlight relays
3
1
29
8
interior
lights
4
Electrical
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Electrical
314
Windshield Wiper Motor Re-Work
Tech Tip No. 86-13, 1986
I recently had a problem with the driver’s side wiper not returning to the down position or slowing
down and stopping at the far left. To get it going again, all I would have to do was to reach out the
side window and give it an assist to start it up again. Of course, this could not continue unless my
left arm grew another six inches. Now, if you ever have to remove a unit, be prepared for a little
struggle.
After reading the Ultra Manual information, I decided to reposition the sweep from 110° to 90°.
The unit was reinstalled the window watered, wiper turned on and hey, it works! but the motor
sounds like it is dragging or binding.
Again, the wiper unit was removed and disassembled, I found one of the two field magnets loose
in the body shell of the motor. They were originally glued-in and either there was not enough glue
applied to hold it in place or it had dried-out. Being loose it gripped the motor armature and under
load it would cause the motor to bind up or slow down because of losing approximately 50% of its
magnetic field.
The brushes and commutator were cleaned, gears lubed and the sweep changed back to 110°! The
field magnet was rebonded with fiberglass type epoxy and the unit was reassembled.
The wiper assembly was identified on the motor body as part number WWF12-C-18-910. Comparing this with the manual, I confirmed it to be a two speed with park capabilities.
On reinstallation, I installed a new rotary type switch, made by Cole Hersee Co. (CH) P/N
W67487, 3 position, park/off, slow and fast speed. I wired it according to the diagram below and
presto! a super operating two speed wiper that return to the park position when turned off.
So if you have a problem with your wiper, don’t just replace it with a new unit, (cost $65).
battery
P
B
C
A
B
A
F
wiper motor
face side
switch backside
Electrical
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Electrical
315
Bright Light Bulbs
Tech Tip No. 86-19, 1986
The Ultra’s are not noted for having tail running/brake lights that are blinding in brightness, but
here is a way you can help improve them quite a bit. Order a pair of “Super” Power Taillight
Bulbs (12 volt 50 candlepower at $2.95 each) which is Item #16 of a 280 page Special Edition
Catalog put out by:
Speedway Motors
300 Van Dorn,
Lincoln, NE 68502
402-474-441
Electrical
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Electrical
316
Turn Signal Sound Amplifier
Author: P.W. Donaldson #436, Walt Davison #366
Tech Tip No. 86-30, 1986
Double the noise output of the signal light relay. How many times have you gone down the freeway with the signal light flashing for miles, unaware that you forgot to cancel it on the last turn?
When travelling the freeways and changing lanes, we need a louder relay to remind us it is still
flashing. Forgetting it could involve you in an accident. This is a one minute installation your wife
can do just to show you she can make a worthwhile technical improvement and to make sure it
gets done. Then she can brag about it and tell others there is nothing to this modification, then
some of the other girls may want to try to accomplish this safety item on their coach or car.
First find the relay by turning the signal on and listening for where it is. When found, apply a dab
of silicone cement to the top of the relay, then take a small 3” aluminum tart or pie plate and press
it onto the silicone dab, holding it 30 seconds until the pie plate is secure. The job is now complete, turn on the blinker and notice the magnification of the sound. It can be easily heard to
remind you to shut it off. Three inch aluminum pie pans can be obtained from the grocery store or
on a pastry rack with small pecan pie or tart.
Electrical
Table Of Contents
Electrical
317
Vega Point Breaker Plate Fits Corvair
Tech Tip No. 86-34, 1986
The typical GM small engine Distributor Point Plate had a wear problem where the Punched Pivot
Hole in the Point Mounting plate fits the pivot pin in the Main Plate. Even though the small wire
spring was supposed to take up the extra clearance, much dwell variation and resulting timing
change was, and still is, common. Some GM Tech Tips indicated the Vega engine was not very
tolerant of the above mentioned timing variation. As a result, Chevrolet added a bronze bushing to
the pivot hole to reduce wear.
Also added was a strap over the vacuum advance arm to keep the vacuum advance rod from lifting
the point plate during vacuum advance operation.
I found this information from a tip by racer, Al Harris. As Harris says, this improved part fits Corvairs exactly (62-69) and should outlast the vehicle. The ones I bought look very durable.
See an update to this in Tech Tip 87-01.
Electrical
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Electrical
318
Bright Bulbs and Low Voltage
Tech Tip No. 86-38, 1986
The subject of light bulbs and system voltage has been gone over in various bulletins, the Ultra
manual and at various rally tech sessions.
The underlying problem of lousy lights is low voltage – fix it first. The next thing that makes the
big difference is to install the new “Bright Bulbs”. These are available from a supplier as noted in
Tech Tip 86-19.
Ultra Vans #366 and #401 have both made improvements and really have bright (WOW) lights.
Electrical
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Electrical
319
Vega Point Breaker Plate Update
Tech Tip No. 87-01, 1987
Add the following information to Tech Tip 86-34.
Order your Vega plate under GM P/N 1846456,
List price is $13.44
Electrical
Table Of Contents
Electrical
320
Battery Charger – Solar-Powered
Tech Tip No. 87-15, 1987
This unit is called “The Maintainer”, Model MM12T, weight 2 pounds, price $44.95.
Details are as follows: Keep the battery in your car or coach fully charges, even if you leave it sitting for days, weeks or months. Simply plug The Maintainer into the cigarette lighter socket and
the solar panel collects sunlight and converts it into energy that maintains your battery’s charge.
Your battery is always ready to go when you are. The Maintainer is lightweight, measures only
12” L x 41/2” W x 1/2” H so it fits right on your dash. Comes complete with a cigarette lighter plug.
Available from: American Van Equipment Inc., 212 Gates Road, Little Ferry, NJ 07643, phone 1800-526-4743
Electrical
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Electrical
321
Silicone Spark Plug Wires
Tech Tip No. 88-02, 1988
For those of you that desire the highest quality and state of the art in Corvair ignition wiring systems, the following is available:
Silicone Wire Systems, 3462 Kirkwood Dr., San Jose CA 95117.
Four kits are available:
8mm Yellow (resistance core)
8mm Blue (resistance core)
7mm Black (resistance core)
Racing only (solid core).
Prices:
Street Sets $26.00
Racing Sets $36.00
These all have the correct heavy duty Corvair style rubber boots. (no 90° boots available). All are
plus $2 postage.
Electrical
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Electrical
322
State of 12 Volt Battery Charge
Tech Tip No. 88-09, 1988
Information from GNB, a major battery company, on determining the state of charge of “sealed”
type batteries. After use (not after charge), allow 24 hours after charge before test. Open circuit
voltage (battery not connected to any load). State of Charge is as follows:
Voltage
State of Charge
12.0 Volts or less
0%
12.2 Volts
25%
12.4 Volts
50%
12.6 Volts
75%
12.8 Volts
100%
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Alternator Rebuild Kit
Tech Tip No. 88-14, 1988
Before you start out on that long Fall/Winter trip this year, remove your old alternator and rebuild
it using the following noted new parts from your local NAPA parts store.
1. Alternator pulley bearing, NAPA #203-F
2. Alternator small end needle bearing, NAPA #MN471-S
3. Alternator brushes & springs, NAPA #R-434
Electrical
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Distributor Rebuild
Tech Tip No. 88-15, 1988
The next time you renew the points in your distributor, install the following new point plate to
update you unit. This new plate is from the VEGA car and incorporates a strap over the point plate
so it will not jump out of the vacuum advance arm hole. It also has a better pivot bushing for the
point plate. Available from any Chev parts counter. Ask for P/N 1846456 Plate List Price $11.20
See Tech Tips 86-34 and 87-01 for details on the breaker plate.
Electrical
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Fixing the Wiper Park Switch
Tech Tip No. 89-15, 1989
If a wiper does not park automatically and you know it did at one time, the problem is likely a
burned up autopark switch. It’s not serious, but it must work if you want to add an intermittent
wiper control. Getting the motors out for either repair or replacement is much harder than doing
the actual repair.
As outlined in the Ultra Van Manual, four wires come to the motors, the slow wire is #24, 31 is
high and 32 is park, ground is GND. Four screws hold the back cover, watch not to damage the
gasket.
The self-park switch is a carbon button sliding on the “D” shaped contact riveted to the cover.
When opening the cover, watch for a carbon button on a plastic pin and spring, they can be discarded.
Two wires are soldered on the D contact, the red goes to a connector for wire 32, the blue wire
connects to wire 24. Unplug these wires as all the work is done on the cover. Be careful not to disturb a little nylon cap on the gear end of the link arm. This cap will be used to activate a switch we
will mount inside on the cover. Scrape most of the grease off the gear and inside the gear case.
Now the fix. Buy two subminiature lever switches, (Radio Shack p/n 275-016) and some tiny bolts
(2-56 x 1/2”) with nuts, also from Radio Shack. Drill out the rivet holding the D contact to the
cover. Unsolder both wires from the contact and solder one on each end post of the switch. The
middle switch contact is not used.
Measure down from the top of the cover 111/16” and draw a line across just over the American
Bosch logo. Next, from the left side, mark 2 lines, at 3/4” and at 11/8”. Where the lines cross drill
tiny 1/16” holes. Then, drill holes on either side of the first hole and file between to make adjustments slots. Hold the switch against the cover with the lever hanging down. Put the bolts through
the switch so the heads will be on the inside. Loctite the screws into the switch and when set, slide
the screws through the holes in the cover you drilled. The nuts go on the outside to allow any
adjustments needed.
Put a little lithium grease on the nylon gear and on one side of the gasket to keep it in place. Connect the switch wires to the connectors removed in the 4th paragraph. Carefully replace the cover,
watching to be sure the switch lever is over top of the nylon cam. Make sure the ground wire is
under a cover screw.
Test by connecting wires 24 and 32. Momentarily, flick the switch on, then off. The motor should
start and run to the park position when it opens the switch contacts. If the arm goes below the stop
point at the start of the cycle, adjust the position of the switch. The switch lever can also be bent
slightly to stop the motor at exactly the right place.
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I moved the right motor to sweep more of the windshield by drilling a new hole, 91/2 inches left,
near where the fiberglass and aluminum meet. The angle of the right wiper head was changed so
the wiper arm would lay even with the bottom edge of the windshield when it is parked.
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Instruments – Stewart Warner
Tech Tip No. 89-20, 1989
If you are planning on installing a voltmeter and cylinder head temperature gauge in your Ultra,
here is a bit of information to help you order these instruments from your parts house.
The cylinder head gauge is for the Corvair or any other air cooled motor. It requires a thermocouple which fits under a spark plug in place of the normal spark plug gasket. All three units are made
by Stewart Warner.
Voltmeter, P/N 284-H, ($30.00)
Cylinder Head Temperature, P/N 284-AK (100°-600°), ($40.00)
Cylinder Head Temp Sender Kit, P/N 280-EK (15’ leads), ($23.50)
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Windshield Water Disburser – Rain-X
Author: Bob Franz #472
Tech Tip No. 90-19, 1990
The product RAIN-X is excellent for use on windshields. We lost the driver’s side wiper during a
heavy rain in Oklahoma after the Texas Rally and were able to drive on for several hours without
it thanks to a prior application of Rain-X.
The water beads up and blows off. Follow the application directions precisely, and do not use any
windshield cleaning materials afterwards. For bug and dirt removal, use only water.
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Shore Line Electrical Connectors
Tech Tip No. 90-20, 1990
Most of the later Ultras were equipped with a 3-prong outside receptacle which has a spring
loaded cover......the mating plug on the shore line has a key to insure the correct hook up to the
coach.
Manufacturer:
The Bargman Co.
129 Industrial Ave.
Coldwater, MI 49036
phone 517-279-7594
phone 800-248-2028
fax 517-278-2028
Part Numbers:
40-60-666, Complete connector (both pieces)
40-60-001, Male Base Unit with Cover
40-60-002, Female Plug
NOTE: These parts may or may not be available from local Trailer and RV Supply Stores.
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Bosch Electric Windshield Wipers
Author: Len Ryerson #513, John Shattuck #459
Tech Tip No. 90-21, 1990
During research for the Ultra manual, Bosch was one of the few companies who refused to give us
any help or supply technical information.
Thanks to John Shattuck #459, who did some investigating on his own, we have the beginnings of
some updated information.
Present Company:
United Technology Corp.
Motor Systems Division
Columbus, Mississippi
Contact: Mr. Tommy Yeatman, Service 601-245-4257
Distributors:
H.G. Makelin Co.
219 S. Shaw Road
S. San Francisco
CA 94083-2827
Phone 415-873-4753
or
H.G. Makelin Co.
1520 S. Harris Court
Anaheim, CA 92806
phone 714-978-7515
John Duncan
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A/C and Auxiliary Generator
Air Conditioning Compressors – a recommended compressor
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Air Conditioning Compressors
Tech Tip No. 86-31, 1986
Some Ultra Van owners have added air conditioning systems driven by the engine and most are
different from each other.
If you have thought about adding this system to your V8 or Corvair powered unit or need to
replace the existing compressor, consider the following unit: P/N Sankyo #504 (Bi-Directional).
This was used on early Mazda RX-7 cars.
A/C and Auxiliary Generator
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Special Services
Baking Soda – Fire Extinguisher, etc. – baking soda has many uses besides putting out fires
Smog Pump Removal – Authorization – you can legally remove your smog pump
General Check Up – jack up your Ultra and check out these items
How Is Your Jack? (Ultra Van Lifter) – this two-speed scissor jack from Sears is safer and faster
Road Courtesy – please heed this road law
What To Carry – don’t leave home without this list of essential items
“Basic Bull” – Paper on Ultra Weight – a discussion on weight distribution, torque, rear bearings..
Repair of Loose Bearings and Bushings – a product that works on loose bolts, bushings, etc.
Tools – 3/8” “Wobble” Drive Extension – this tool makes spark plug removal/installation a snap
Maintenance Checks After Snow Season – this checklist should cover everything
Air Bag Jack – this type of jack raises the vehicle quickly
Fire Extinguishers – Halon – these type of extinguishers leave no mess or corrosive residue
Rain-X Windshield Water Disburser – a recommendation on this product
Ultra Shoulder Belt Installation – procedure to install shoulder belts
California Smog Inspections – a change in the law may include 1966 vehicles for inspection
Tail Light Lens Replacement – these aftermarket lenses fit the Ultra Van
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Baking Soda – Fire Extinguisher, etc.
Tech Tip No. 70-04, 1970
Local Fire Departments promote the use of household baking soda as a fire extinguisher. They
warn: never use water on any electrical, gasoline or cooking fires. Always keep a well-marked can
of soda on the stove where you can toss a bit on cooking flare-ups to immediately put out the
blaze. Soda is also excellent for insect bites and stings, for indigestion, as a gargle or for strong
breath, as a sunburn soother, to deodorize your refrigerator, to remove acid crust from battery
cables, etc.
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Smog Pump Removal – Authorization
Tech Tip No. 71-08, 1971
Exhaust Emission Control, A.I.R., or that blasted smog pump. This pump is located at the back of
the engine and driven by a separate belt.
GOOD NEWS: You can legally remove the pump.
If you are stopped by an officer who is not aware of the law, have him check the California Highway Patrol Handbook for Installation and Inspection Stations HPH 82.1, page G-5 reads:
1969 Model vehicles designated by the Cal. Air Resources Board as not being required to be
equipped emission control systems. Paragraph 5, further states the above applies to “Motor
vehicles manufactured in quantities of less than 2,000 units for any given model year.” Keep
the number HPH 82.1 in mind.
After you remove the smog pump, you have relieved the engine of the extra load, however, the
special distributor on smog engines has a different vacuum advance curve and a peculiar exhaust
system. The distributor and exhaust system should be changed. I recommend exhaust headers and
glass packed mufflers for optimum performance.
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General Check Up
Tech Tip No. 71-10, 1971
Jack up your van, put it on axle stands and remove all four wheels.
Check the following: Bolts holding the ball joints. Some bolts are safety wired which means
removing it to tighten them. Be sure to replace the wire. Bolts holding the shocks springs, etc.
Look at the flexible brake hose and make sure does not rub on the lower “A” frame. If it does, tie
it up with a nylon wiring strap.
Check the speedometer cable to be sure it is fastened securely at the hub. Pack some grease
around the end at the spindle. Take the brake drums off, clean all the dust off the back plate and
drums.
Check the thickness of the shoes. Inspect the wheel cylinders. When everything is clean, replace
the drums making sure there is no grease or oil on them. Shoot some grease into the ball joints, tie
rod ends, bellcrank arms, steering joints and drive shafts.
Last, spray all the underneath parts with a liberal dose of WD-40 to slow down rusting. Check
over the tires and rotate if necessary. Torque lug bolts to 55 ft. pounds.
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How Is Your Jack? (Ultra Van Lifter)
Tech Tip No. 72-09, 1972
How is your jack? and I don’t mean your money. The jack supplied with the Ultra is, in my estimation, not only unsafe, but very hard to operate. Sears has a really nice two speed scissor jack
that easily lifts up to two tons (4,000 pounds). The upper connector runs the jack at 1 to 1 ratio
which is fast for getting the jack up or lifting light loads and for getting it down quickly. The lower
connector is a 4 to 1 reduction making it easy to lift heavy loads. Sears Catalog number is
28K1272C. See the drawing below.
1 to 1 ratio drive for
fast lifting of light loads
4 to 1 ratio drive for
easy lifting of heavy loads
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Road Courtesy
Tech Tip No. 73-06, 1973
On two lane highways, especially going up hill, remember the rear view mirror and consider the
guy behind you. The law is, if there are three or more vehicles behind you, you must pull over at
the next opportunity to let them pass. This creates good will for all RV’ers.
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What To Carry
Tech Tip No. 74-02, 1974
The following is a list of what I carry to be ready on the road:
oil pressure sender
blower belt
fuel pump
rear wheel bearing assembly with brake back-plate
front wheel bearings and seals
tow line, just in case
plenty of flares
a couple of flashlights
rain gear
blankets
a minimum of water
a full gas tank.
Don’t carry a bomb in your van in the form of a spare gasoline can.
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“Basic Bull” – Paper on Ultra Weight
Tech Tip No. 75-02, 1975
ULTRA BULL(etin) “BASIC BULL” by Fred Leary, June 1975
Isn’t it wonderful to be part of the so-called technical “progress”? From Covered Wagon to Ultra,
says the booklet....with pictures.
So we researched the Covered Wagon Era and discovered the No.1 problem of the Old Wagon
Masters was with clients who (for food supplies, clothing and other security reasons) loaded wagons beyond the limit. Then, they couldn’t make it up hills, axles broke and horses “retired”.
Reads a lot like a log of the last October Rally.
We still use air-breathing horses just like Grandpa did. Our breathing capacity is “piston displacement” of the engine in cubic inches..... And each tiny cubic inch is required to lift and carry a lot
of pounds.
How many? Well if your passenger car was asked to travel around with much over 20 pounds per
cubic foot it would probably go back to the dealer next Monday. For the Ultra Coach combo, this
20 figure is out of reach. We will travel in the 25 - 35 bracket. A few “truck-type” motor homes,
like the Winnebago, etc. have attempted 40 pounds or more per cubic inch and set the whole
industry back 10 years.
Your suspicions are correct. The Korvair Kid is off and running on his pet subject. But....this is for
ALL motorhomes, including the V8s too. Watch out for your net, your gross and your “rear end”.
No finesse: we head for the high board and dive right in;
1. ALL weight is bad (well..... almost ALL)
2. Weight above the normal Center of Gravity is VERY BAD
3. Weight behind the rear axle is POISON
Some weight we must keep. Where we keep it is about as important as the total. The Ultra Van
was born with a nice LOW center of gravity, KEEP IT THERE. Lots of weight to “hold the road”
is in the same class as the “earth is flat” theory. Design engineering.....and weight distribution are
the principal items affecting stability, thus safety. Our pets (Ultra Vans) get straight A in this
department...but improper loading can quickly drop the rating to about a C minus.
For years, any easy steering rear engined vehicle with super traction was declared unstable and
probably dangerous. True until the industry learned how to engineer this type...and LEARN
THEY DID (check the next 33 cars lined up at Indy).
The potential problem is still there however. Excessive rear weight bias and/or lateral flexibility in
the rear suspension, produces a control problem like a boat with a loose rudder. What appears to
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be a steering problem isn’t that at all..... THE TAIL IS WAGGING THE DOG.
Even the Detroit type station wagon (normally NOSE heavy) will catch the disease when loaded
to (and above) the roof, with heavy items in the rear. Most large motorhomes with yards of rear
“overhang” require lots of wheels, high tire pressure, unbelievably heavy springs, struts and
beams to encourage them to go (somewhat) straight from A to B.
Having followed thus far, a reward is in order. That basket of loot you were planning to contribute
for a front end improvement (?) job, maybe like those weird spring and lever assemblies (which
we don’t understand) can be put to better use. Some of these may still be needed, but don’t expect
them alone to correct a problem located 20 feet away.
With the PROBLEM in focus, the answers are rather easy. Painful in some respects, but you do
remember what Grandma always said about your medicine:
1. Eliminate or move all possible weight from behind (or near) the rear axle. These beautiful
compartments are just about the biggest temptation since Eve set up her fruit stand. Only
light items up top, a little styrofoam is OK, a sack of helium is ideal. The Kansas guys who
buried two batteries and a heavy propane tank in the stern were clever, but not exactly on
our team. The club member who discovered storage space under the FRONT floorboards
was working for us.
2. Eliminate or minimize all REAR suspension looseness. Old stuff. Good old #224, 296,
513, and others who have spoken thus many times. Faithful 434 very simply (how else)
says “hear and heed”.
3. At the rear, use the widest rims and the “fattest” tires that will, with minor surgery, fit in the
openings. We are presently running GR-70 on 7 inch rims at 32 psi. Maximum load is
3,240 pounds, actual is 2,480 and all has been well so far for 22,000 miles. Even if we
wanted to carry 3,240 on these tires....we wouldn’t.
4. The front end doesn’t produce any steering or control problems if the joints and alignment
are kept OK. The book says that F-78 tires at 26 psi can carry 2,700 pounds. Ours loaded
at 1,740, have been on a 28,000 mile vacation.
Shouldn’t all four tires be the same size and type? Many say “yes” for the sake of convenience,
but don’t bet on it in the case of rear engined missiles.
Back in Corvair country for a minute or so. Our little reciprocating bed-warmer comes with
exactly 164 cubic inches. With much time and hard labor (and more money), it can be stretched a
little....but not too much. This leaves us with only the other side of the picture to work
with......GROSS WEIGHT.
It’s time to lay some numbers on the “Hutchison Hellcat”:
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A. At 25 lbs per cu. in. (4,100 gross) it’s a BOMB
B. At 30 lbs per cu. in. (4,920 gross) it’s a BEAR (junior grade)
C. At 35 lbs per cu. in. (5,740 gross) it’s a BUST
(figuratively it is, and literally it just might)
Of course the cubic inch gate is still open. From our 164 we can jump to 307...350...455...or more,
provided we don’t mind buying machinery in a wet (water cooled) cast iron box. Too bad we personally developed an allergy to cast iron (and water) long ago, for those marine types do push real
well. With 350 in an Ultra light, we can have a ball at the drag strip. With 455, we might do a
fancy moon shot. In all of the “high cube/high weight” cases, a few hundred pounds of drive-train
and structural reinforcement had best be applied, in the right places, by the right technician.
Horsepower is an interesting subject.....Aesop would have loved it. Advertised HP is mainly useful for just that.....advertising. Next time you see a parked Corvair 95 (Greenbrier, panel or truck)
open the left door, push the drivers left foot out of the way and read the fairly honest specs tag.
Call the sheriff, someone has rustled 32 horses from the corral. Note also the Gross Weight maximum for the vehicle.....and scream a little more.
But all is not lost. For our purpose, Torque (not HP) is the name of the game. Torque is directly
related to cubic inches and nobody swiped any of these. Be not misled by “references to “big” and
“little” Corvair engines...all since 1964 were the same size....164 cu. in. It was the older, earlier
types that were 145 cu. in. Beware....they cannot be easily identified from the outside.
The 95, 110 and 140 engines differ principally in valve timing, compression ratio and port area.
These items affect the RPM at which the maximum torque is produced and therefore the total
advertised HP. But when we cruise at a fixed RPM (say 2,500) it is torque that will either climb
the mountain, or..... put us in the truck lane. At 2,000 RPM, which we often use to climb, the 95
HP engine is the “strong boy” of the group.
With engine torque pretty well frozen, what are some possibilities in the transmission? Not much.
Power Glide is two-speed, often described at too high and too low. A ten speed like the big boys
(and bicycles) use, would be quite handy. A ten shifter with a 140 engine would be a blast...... (end
of dream period).
We are really reaching now. The 3.89 rear axle (from some 95 series vehicles) will give a solid
10% boost in axle torque compared to the 3.55 (no miracles). Some may wish to swap higher
cruising RPM for extra torque. No objection/ no recommendation.
The options narrow. We are now confronting the big demon.....Gross Weight. A “how to do it”
manual can’t be done, instead a few observations on our limited hassle with #434.
This unit came into our questionable custody with a good engine and pulled the beam at 4,900 lbs.
Operated well, but warm in the engine, transmission and tire areas. It objected to one additional
passenger......and mountains.
We now roll with an improved (but not greatly modified) engine at just 4,250 lbs. It goes!!! Made
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Vale Pass in high gear one time as a technical test (or stupid stunt).
A detailed list of “expendables” is confidential, it would fracture the meeting and probably get us
a visit from the White Coat Corps. One item only. When we detect iron (good mostly for battleships) in an aluminum coach, it usually goes. Had to chuck the vitamin pills (ferrous sulphate).
Even devoted “Weight Watchers” are often tricked by the liquid stuff. Keep gasoline and fresh
water tanks low as possible. No carry - just hold the hose....or pay the bill. With a little mismanagement, an extra half ton can be carried. And it won’t stay put. The Ultra was born heavy on the
right side (road tilts that way and liquids join the parade) – soon we are holding against a strong
left crosswind – on a calm day. We will on occasion carry an “extra” 120 pounds or so, but in a
configuration more attractive than an old 42-42-42 tin tank.
Excess weight astern will not only unstabilize the boat, but could unstabilize travel plans and bank
account. You guessed right again.... those Dear Hard Working Wheel Bearings.
Those D.H.W.W.B.’s (1965-69 Corvair) were designed for about 800 lbs each or 1,600 total without lubrication or adjustment through the warranty period – and (usually) for a couple of years or
so after. At this point we are expected to trade for the “new and improved” model. This is exactly
what we motorhomers do not have in mind.
The Corvette uses a similar unit with the rear wheels carrying little load. Surprise? Based on experience (mostly sad) the recommendation now is: Lubricate and adjustment at 12,000 miles and
each 24,000 miles after. Now we know.....all Vette owners are millionaires, with complete
machine shops and “live-in” mechanics.
Within the Club membership, Ultra technicians were battling this tiger before this member even
knew how to spell Ultra. After adding our extensive ignorance to the program, the complete fix is
uncertain yet. One idea is good, beyond question....carry a spare. Obtain same from a favorite
wrecking yard (if end play is minor, it is probably a very good unit). Another idea....you may want
to contact one of the Club’s “bearing experts” for further advice. As soon as we get old and smart
enough to set forth the final answer, a separate bulletin on “Ruckus in the Rear” will be released.
(At this moment these factors are not correlating well).
Meanwhile, why not borrow a dump truck and relieve your coach of the lifting and diving
weights, plow and tractor parts, blacksmith tools, a years supply of groceries and you name it.
We didn’t realize it at the time, but it is certain now....our old athletic coach must have owned an
Ultra. Many times, loud and clear, from across the field he advised us to:.... GET THE LEAD
OUT!!!! Please, ALL Club Members, YOU do the same.
Signed: Fred Leary
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Repair of Loose Bearings and Bushings
Tech Tip No. 85-03, 1985
“Loctite” makes an epoxy that works great for bearings, bushings, bolts, etc. that are loose in their
attach fittings. A reliable source says it can be used successfully on a slightly loose pinion gear to
its shaft. It is very high in tensile and shear strength. The full name is “Loctite Quick Metal, Press
Fit Repair” and comes in a 1.69 fl.oz. tube container.
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Tools – 3/8” “Wobble” Drive Extension
Tech Tip No. 85-04, 1985
This is a nice handy tool to have in your tool box. Makes removal and installation of spark plugs a
snap. In fact it is made by Snap-On Tools and is available in different lengths and in 1/4” drive.
Find Snap-On dealers in the Yellow pages.
“Wobble” Drive
161/2°
“Wobble” Drive Extension Bars
Stock Number
Shank
Diameter
Length
FXW1
13/ ”
32
113/32”
FXW2
13/ ”
32
3”
FXW4
13/ ”
32
4”
FXW6
13/ ”
32
6”
FXW8
13/ ”
32
8”
FXW11
13/ ”
32
12”
Provides 161/2° angle flexibility for turning fasteners when clearance is a problem.
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Maintenance Checks After Snow Season
Tech Tip No. 85-10, 1985
AFTER SNOW SEASON
Here we are in spring already, the snows are diminishing and hopefully in your area, the countryside is taking on a new cover of green. It’s about time to start thinking about those trips you have
always wanted to take in your Ultra.
In order to do that, there are some maintenance checks that should be done first, so you can be
assured of a safe and trouble free trip.
The following is a list of tasks and checks that are the basics and you likely will add more of your
own, just for your particular coach.
1. Wash and clean exterior and interior
2. Check for water leaks and repair same at time of washing exterior. Visually check sealant
at all seams, especially on roof (be careful on that ladder).
3. Liquid wax exterior (use a wax that is added to the wash water).
4. Flush fresh water tank. Add 5 - 10 gallons of clean water and check operation of all the
water pumps. Look under the cabinets and other hidden areas for water leaks while the
system is pressurized. Check under the coach for leaks from all the tanks.
5. Service and clean the bathroom units. Install a fresh deodorizer. Check the cabinet and
store in fresh toothpaste, paper, etc. Don’t forget the first-aid kit.
6. (a) If not done already (prior to winter storage), run up the engine to normal temperature.
Drain oil and change filter.
(b) Verify condition and tension of blower belt. Replace if there is any sign of cracking,
fraying, oil contamination, etc.
(c) Lubricate the blower idler pulley bearings. (see following tip for lubricating tool
details)
(d) Check all rubber hoses and electrical wires in the engine compartment for cracking,
loose fitting, chaffing, kinking, etc.
(e) Remove air filter(s), blow clean or replace as needed
(f) Check automatic transmission fluid for proper level (only at operating temperature). If
fluid smells like something burnt, change it.
(g) Check rear axle and if applicable the 4 speed transmission for proper fluid level.
(h) Check tightness of all fuel line connections at the carburetor, especially the large connector to which the fuel line is attached. Careful not to over torque the fittings. Also
check the screws holding the carb together.
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(i) Verify the carburetor air filter is sealed correctly
(j) Lubricate all throttle linkage (Lubriplate is best – heavy oil is last choice)
(k) Clean and Lubriplate throttle, clutch and parking brake cables under coach.
(l) Check throttle cable for cutting into lower side of aluminum tanks, repair as necessary.
7. (a) Check front shocks for looseness or breaks at lower connect point. Check for heavy rust
on exposed shock shaft. Clean and lubricate as required. Change shock if oil loss is evident on the shock body.
(b) Check all front suspension attach bolts for looseness or evidence of movement (rust or
dark stains around bolts or nuts). Tighten to proper torque as required.
(c) Clean and lubricate suspension and steering joints (be cautious when greasing the left
steering bellcrank on left side as too much pressure has cracked some castings).
(d) Jack front wheels off the ground and check wheel-bearings for looseness - adjust as
necessary. Spin wheel by hand and verify that the bearing is smooth and quiet. Replace
if rumbling, rough, or noisy, etc.
(e) Check steering box for lubrication and steering wheel play. Adjust as necessary. Note:
Visually check all tires for proper wear - have alignment shop confirm and correct
problems.
(f) Check tires for proper inflation, don’t forget the spare tire. Check for proper torque on
lug bolts and check for lug wrench and jack (make sure it works OK)
(g) If it has been a long time (over 8,000 to 10,000 miles) since you inspected the rear “U”
joints, better do it now. Any rust stain around the bearing cup inner seal is a sure sign
you have a problem.
(h) Jack rear wheels of the ground, check wheel spindle bearings for proper adjustment,
roughness or noise. If all seems well and the spindle assembly has been modified with a
grease fitting, remove wheel and drum then lubricate as necessary. While your there,
clean all the brake dust off the back plate and brake parts
(i) If you have the capability, disassemble the spindle assembly, clean and lubricate and reassemble with proper bearing pre-load.
(j) Check brake fluid reservoir for proper level and check flexible brake lines for cracks or
leaks.
8. Clean windows – check operation and condition of wipers.
9. Level the coach, check propane connections for leakage with soapy water (watch for bubbles). Light up the wall heater, refrigerator, stove top burners/oven and water heater.
Check all for proper operation – make repairs or adjustments as necessary.
10. Fill fuel tank with at least 10 gallons of fresh gasoline throw in some fresh vittles, the dog
and/or cat and wife (not necessarily in that order) and hit the road to “Anywhere America”
Good Luck and Happy Ultra-ing – see you in Minden, Nebraska at the National.
Special Services
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348
Air Bag Jack
Author: Frank Rudolph #A357
Tech Tip No. 86-23, 1986
Air bag jacks are used on large aircraft, so the system is for real. Hook up to tube to tailpipe,
exhaust inflates bag real quick. One source, not specifically a recommendation, is J.C Whitney P/
N 81-1486B out of catalog #467D $29.95
Brookstone is reported to have a similar (identical?) device.
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349
Fire Extinguishers – Halon
Tech Tip No. 86-25, 1986
Halon fire extinguishers work like......MAGIC, no mess to clean up and unlike chemical extinguishers, NO CORROSIVE RESIDUE (aluminum Ultra Coach owners please note). Yes they are
more expensive, but as has been said, “the good stuff usually is”.
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Rain-X Windshield Water Disburser
Tech Tip No. 86-26, 1986
A tiny tid-bit.....Try RAIN-X on the windshield, TRY IT AND YOU’LL LOVE IT.
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351
Ultra Shoulder Belt Installation
Tech Tip No. 89-12, 1989
Being used to the security of shoulder seat belts in our car, we had to install them in 547, but as
you likely know, there is no provision for securing the upper anchor bolt of the three point harness.
Engineering a restraint system is beyond the scope of most of us as it involves many design factors, but there are some “rules of thumb” which if followed, will likely result in an acceptable
installation. After my own investigation, I consulted with Walt Davison and reviewed his technical
references to evolve the following “rules of thumb”:
1.The lap part of the belt should attach at a 45 degree angle.
2.The diagonal belt should be pass over the shoulder, halfway between the neck and shoulder
cap.
3.The diagonal belt must not pull downward on the shoulder. Keep the upper attach point six
inches above the shoulder and not more than four inches behind the shoulder with the seat
fully to the rear.
4. Belts should be kept as short and tight as is comfortable.
To determine what was to be done, the decorative panels were loosened. Problem One, the hull
structure is not strong enough to anchor the upper seat belt bolts. On the entrance side, there is
only a six inch vertical box section of thin aluminum between the door the door and front window.
The drivers side is even worse, just two vertical ribs six inches apart. Horizontally, there are
stringers over and under the windows. This structure cannot (without strengthening) support an
anchor capable of absorbing a 7 to 9 G pull, the recommended minimum.
Next to the seat was reinforced with a vertical 1/8” x 1” x 2” “U” channel installed between the
stringers. Since the side of the hull is curved, the “U” channel had to be bowed a bit, but not
enough to prevent the window from sliding. A double box section was created on the left side by
adding a 0.040 aluminum panel (14” x 36”) over the ribs and U channel.
Thick aluminum plates (8” x 18” x 1/8”) were slid under the bottom of the top cupboard and overlapped both the box section and the new vertical “U” channel by an inch. Holes for 1/8” rivets
were drilled around the plate and through the ribs at one inch intervals. The plates were held temporarily in place with Cleco clamps until the upper anchor bolt location was determined.
Since it was impossible to get behind the box sections to buck solid rivets, the plates were riveted
with steel pop-rivets for strength.
The decision of where the attach points should be was complicated by several factors. Our seats
(1984 Mazda 626) can slide, recline and rotate, also the regular occupant of the passenger seat is a
bit shorter and quite a bit lighter than the driver, so the anchor spots are in different spots on the
right and left sides of the coach.
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The upper anchor bolts are 7/16” Grade 5 bolts which came with the J.C. Whitney belts (126244U). Most auto and truck belts are too short so we chose these belts as they were 140” long
and met the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards #209. Behind the bolts are 3” steel washers.
The exposed bolt ends were hidden with part of a plastic 35 mm film can.
Now the belts are complete......hope we never need them. Interested? Catch me at a rally and I’ll
show you step by step pictures.
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353
California Smog Inspections
Tech Tip No. 90-01, 1990
The following information is from “Cars & Parts” magazine, December 1989: New California
smog check extends back to 1966 models. Changes in the California “Smog Check” law this year
have affected owners of vehicles previously exempt from the second yearly mandatory inspections. Until now, vehicles 21 years or older had been exempt. Now, however vehicles made in
model year 1966 (cars & trucks up to 8,500 lbs GVW) need smog checks. The reason for this
change is although the number of 1966-74 vehicles registered in California is relatively small,
their emission levels may be 10 times more than vehicles made since 1980.
Only 1965 and older vehicles will be exempted on basis of age but 1955-65 vehicles may still
need inspection on transfer of registration or initial registration in California.” unquote.
Check your license renewal slip to see if it contains a check off block for a vehicle weight over
8,500 lbs, or verify your vehicle meets the requirements of the California Highway Patrol, Handbook Sheet #82.1 as shown in the Ultra manual as referenced above.
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Tail Light Lens Replacement
Tech Tip No. 90-15, 1990
A super replacement tail light lens that looks custom made for the Ultra Van is a lens for a 1959
Buick. These lenses are bee-hived shaped so they provide better side visibility than the original
Ultra Lenses. At old car flea markets a genuine 1959 Buick lens is very expensive, but luckily
there are many aftermarket lenses around at reasonable prices. Most of these lenses have the number 966 at the bottom with no other identifying numbers. These lenses are 65/16” in diameter, virtually the exact size of the Ultra rear light mount.
To install, drill three small holes around the base of the lens at 120 degree intervals to attach the
lens (use the old lens as a template). Use 11/2” brass round head 6-32 machine screws. When you
drill the holes, make sure the drain slot is at the bottom. Around the inside, there are 6 evenly
spaced plastic bosses which can be used as guides for drilling the holes.
When changing the lenses, it is also a good time to put a little 5 inch aluminum pie plate behind
each bulb to act as a reflector. This has the effect of increasing the brightness of the tail light.
Just cut a little slot 1” wide by 2” long in the plate to let it drop behind the socket with the bulb in
the center of the pie plate.
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Comfort & Housekeeping
Shiny Wheels – how to properly care for your wheels
Teflon Spray – try a light coating on the exterior
Cleaning Tar or Blacktop – try this cheap cleaner for tar spatters
Winter Comfort – you won’t believe this tip on keeping warm
Locked Out – follow this suggestion to avoid being locked out
Mirror-Mirror – a second mirror will relieve bathroom congestion
Romantic Battery Saver – take care of two things at one time with this tip
Speed Brite (cleaner/waxer) – this product is a real worksaver
New “Glory” Rug and Upholstery Cleaner – try this on your interior
Ants and Other Crawly Pests – use these preventative measures for uninvited guests
Stopping Corrosion (with WD-40, etc.) – these products have many uses
Are You On The Level? – avoid the dramatics as you pick a level spot for your Ultra Van
Ant Invasion – how to avoid ants in the Ultra
“Twenty Mule Team Borax” Odor Control – don’t use soap in the bathtub, use Borax powder
Free Campgrounds – write to find out about free campgrounds coast-to-coast
Aluminum Blister Pack Insulation – this aluminum foil insulation is ideal for long-term storage
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Shiny Wheels
Tech Tip No. 67-05, 1967
The four chrome wheel discs should be kept bright and shiny to prevent rust from eating into
them. If you do not polish them now and then, corrosion will soon destroy the finish. The easy
way to shine hard chrome is with fine steel wool and a few drops of kerosene. You could also do
the job with a special chrome cleaner or even a “Chore Boy” will do it. Wipe dry with a soft cloth.
Let’s resolve right now to polish up our wheels.
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Teflon Spray
Tech Tip No. 67-07, 1967
We all know about Teflon Cookware, now you can have a Teflon coated Ultra Van. This fine
Dupont product is available in most houseware departments as a spray for under $2. One brand is
called “SLIP-AWAY”. First, have your vehicle perfectly clean, then spray the colorless Teflon all
over the front end of your Ultra, including a light fog on the windshield. Bugs will now bounce
right off. Dirt, grime and bugs that do spatter will rinse off easily.
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Cleaning Tar or Blacktop
Tech Tip No. 69-16, 1969
What is the best way to clean tar spatters off your Ultra? Try a little lighter fluid from a drug
Store....a few cents....a cloth.....a couple of squirts......presto, a clean coach.
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Winter Comfort
Tech Tip No. 69-17, 1969
This may sound strange, but it works! To get the maximum heat up front while driving, open both
front side windows about 1/4 inch. This draws heat forward from the engine vent or wall furnace
for wonderful driving warmth.
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Locked Out
Tech Tip No. 69-21, 1969
Most Ultra Van owners know the entrance door of the coach can be locked without using the key
by pushing the button over and then closing the door. But....has anyone done this, then discovered
the key was left inside? To prevent this rather embarrassing situation, a duplicate key can be
attached somewhere underneath on any steel part with a magnetic key-case. A spare key could
also be secreted in one of the eves with a gob of caulking dough.
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Mirror-Mirror
Tech Tip No. 70-01, 1970
This excellent idea came from the Ventura rally. Mount a 10” or 12” mirror on the inside of the
bathroom door, which becomes the bedroom mirror when the door is swung across the van opening. Amazingly, it relieves bathroom congestion as hubby can more leisurely finish his shaving...while the better half touches up her hairdo or makeup. Double sided sticky tape will hold the
mirror securely on the door.
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Romantic Battery Saver
Tech Tip No. 70-03, 1970
You can conserve precious battery power by occasionally using “candle-in-a-colored-glass” type
lighting. Slip a short scented candle in a glass. It gives off sufficient light, is perfectly safe and
lends a romantic touch to early evening coach dining.
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Speed Brite (cleaner/waxer)
Author: Horace Dowell #256
Tech Tip No. 70-08, 1970
Here is a worksaver. Get Speed Brite at trailer supply stores, it is excellent for cleaning and waxing in one operation on all interior woodwork. Also, it is especially good for cleaning Ultra Van
front ends. It gets the bugs off fast, protects the finish from oxidizing, keeps resale value high,
makes you a proud owner. No excuse now for driving a shabby looking coach. Gentlemen: Shine
up your Vans!
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New “Glory” Rug and Upholstery Cleaner
Author: Elga & Hilda Green #294
Tech Tip No. 70-09, 1970
An easy way to keep upholstery and carpet bright is Johnson’s “GLORY”. It is available from grocers, etc. Just follow directions on the can.
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Ants and Other Crawly Pests
Tech Tip No. 70-10, 1970
Experience can be a cruel teacher – envision waking up some beautiful morning and finding your
galley virtually alive, or you return from a walk only to discover crawling red intruders eating up
your groceries. Solution: don’t park chairs, or other camp items leaning on the side of the coach.
Bugs won’t usually cross tires so they are usually safe. If you use levelling jacks, spray them
occasionally.
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Stopping Corrosion (with WD-40, etc.)
Tech Tip No. 71-02, 1971
Many members are acquainted with WD-40 or Dupont Slip Spray. Both are generally available at
hardware and auto supply stores. These products stop corrosion when sprayed on battery cases,
wires, terminals, and on the bookcase table hinge to make it slide easier...use on hinges, locks and
the rubber seal around the door. A light mist on the front keeps bugs from sticking – polish with a
clean dry rag.
Use it on wheel discs – polish up chrome first (easier with fine steel wool), then spray lightly to
keep discs shiny and prevent rust. Include the tires too, to prevent sidewalls from scuffing and
make the rubber and wheel look new.
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Are You On The Level?
Tech Tip No. 72-03, 1972
Why dash back and forth, scream, tear your hair or have the co-pilot in fits trying to tell you how
the level reads? Which side goes up, which side goes down, or where to start digging that hole?
Here is how you can avoid the dramatics. First, get your van parked on a perfectly level spot. Then
put your level on the dash shelf where you can read it while still sitting at the steering wheel.
Cement it down in the right spot. You may have to wedge it in places to make it indicate a perfectly level condition. Now as you drive into a spot or make a brief lunch stop, you will be on the
level with the world. You won’t need those sea legs to walk in a tilted van or sleep with your feet
up in the air.
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Ant Invasion
Tech Tip No. 78-11, 1978
Have you ever had an invasion of ants in your coach and wondered how they got there? The most
probable cause is that you left a chair or some other camp item resting against the side of the
coach. It is a good idea to spray the leveling blocks with insecticide occasionally.
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“Twenty Mule Team Borax” Odor Control
Author: Bob & Gwen Worland #304
Tech Tip No. 80-09, 1980
Try using Twenty Mule Team Borax powder instead of soap for washing in the bath. This helps
control odors in the grey water tank.
Combined with soil from hands, ordinary soap chemically creates pungent odors. By using
“BORAXO” powder (available at all good supermarkets) and NO soap at all, the flush water is
sweetened considerably.
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Free Campgrounds
Tech Tip No. 80-22, 1980
After it warms up a bit, would you like to camp a week (or perhaps all summer) at no-charge in
your self-contained Ultra Coach?
Free beautiful campgrounds are located coast to coast. Write to the Boise Cascade Corporation,
Boise, Idaho 83701. They will be happy to send you a list of their no-fee campsites and a map
showing exact locations in Louisiana, Idaho, Minnesota, Washington, Maine and Oregon.
Also, for free camping in Alabama, Georgia, Mississippi, North Carolina and Tennessee, ask for a
map from the Bowater Paper Co., Calhoun, TN 37309. Some are developed and some are semiwilderness.
I want to share the above bit of information with all of you. Maybe we will meet up with you at
one of these interesting places someday. Full-timers enjoy them year-round. You might as well
too.
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Aluminum Blister Pack Insulation
Tech Tip No. 88-24, 1988
A really neat aluminum foil/air/foil insulation has been developed that is something like little air
bubbles trapped between two sheets of aluminum foil. It can be cut to fit all windows and lowers
heat loss and absorption like you would not believe. For testimonials, ask Boydston, Franz or
Helmkay. It would seem to be ideal for long-term outside storage. Enough to cover all the windows would cost 25 to 30 dollars. Call the maker direct toll free 1-800-ADD-FOIL.
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Modifications
Air Scoops – these can be added to improve cooling efficiency
Plastic Containers – buy only plastic-bottled products for safety
Up Front Table – make more effective use of space with a portable table up front
Screen Doors (Keep the Bugs Out) – two examples of screen door additions
Swag Lamp for Your Ultra Van – it’s easy to make this portable lamp
Cross Wind Steering Aid – this tip will help out in cross winds
Daytime Bathroom Lighting – easily add daytime lighting if your coach didn’t originally have it
Gravity Waste System – eliminate all waste water pumps with this system
Reducing Wear on Emergency Brake Cables – this tip will save your cables
More Storage Beside Front Wheel Wells – you can “reclaim” 1.7 cubic feet of storage space
Sun Visor Drapes –avoid being blinded by bright direct sun when driving
Ultra Van Cancelling Turn Signals – procedure to add self-cancelling turn signals
Water Heater Energy Conservation – this easy tip will really save your propane use
Conserving Fresh Water – this tip will save your fresh water
Ultra Tank Repairs – clean and renew your tanks instead of replacing them
Transmission Saver – this suggestion will increase transmission life
You Can Improve Your Brakes – increase braking force with these modifications
Free Ice Cubes – run your refrigerator off an inverter when you are driving to save propane
Sharpen Up Your Coaches – painting and detailing your coach is easy
More On Brakes – check all brake lines now and replace them
Master Cylinder Self-Feeder – keep an eye on your brake fluid level
Know Your Liters/Litres – remember these conversion factors
Vital Gauges – these gauges are essential in your Ultra Van
Split Air Conditioner – two smaller units can cut weight down by over a half
Ballast Resistor and C/D Ignition – you must make this change for capacitive discharge ignition
Ice Box? – you can prepare for refrigerator failure or empty propane tank with this tip
Prevent Refrigerator Failure – this tip can save you the replacement cost of a refrigerator element
Push/Pull Control Cables (Power Plant) – use these types of cables for several purposes
Water Heater Economy – this reminder will really minimize your propane use
Dead Battery – an ammeter can save you lost down time, as can alternating battery use
Power Brake with Compressed Air – air brakes can be added for better stopping power
Avoiding P/G Front Pump Shaft Damage – follow this tip during drivetrain reassembly
Alternators – follow these precautions for external-to-internal regulator alternator conversion
What to Carry – Tools, Spares, Equipment – check out this comprehensive list of five categories
Water Heater as Emergency Anti-Freeze – prevent freezing in the fresh water tank with this tip
Hot Air Water Heater – you can easily have water heated by the engine air
Spun Pinion Gears – What To Do About It – several ways to try to avoid Ultra shock load damage
Oil Filters – Franz Type – you won’t believe this type of oil filter
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Air Scoops
Author: Gar Westmoreland #226
Tech Tip No. 68-08, 1968
Fiberglass boat vents can be installed over the side-inlets to direct more cooling air into the
engine. Ed Martin made his own scoops from aluminum. When completed and sprayed with
DUPLI-COLOR #122 the job looks professional and improves cooling efficiency.
Modifications
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Plastic Containers
Author: Richard Doch #267
Tech Tip No. 69-02, 1969
When buying any bottled product for use in your Ultra Van, buy those brands packaged in plastic
containers. Less weight, less noise, won’t rattle and unbreakable, too, so safer to carry and use.
Modifications
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Up Front Table
Tech Tip No. 69-03, 1969
Dining up-front with the seats facing each other is very effective use of space. The regular table
top or bed board used between the seats can be adapted. Trailer supply stores sell an aluminum
attachment strip for clipping the board to the edge of the Ultra Van front shelf and a folding leg to
support the free end of the table. When driving, unclip the table top and stow in the closet behind
the clothes.
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Screen Doors (Keep the Bugs Out)
Tech Tip No. 72-10, 1972
It is obviously impossible to give all the steps necessary to build a screen door, but there are a
number of different methods used by members on their coaches. With a little ingenuity, some of
your own ideas you should have no difficulty. Most parts are standard screen door sections which
can be found at any screen door place. Look in the Yellow pages and keep those pesky bugs out!
See the four pictures below.
Rev. Goad’s Van 520 screen door
screen door may be opened flat
against van door
carefully bend side members
to fit contour of van door opening
sliding panel allows access from
inside to van door handle
this type of screen
door hinge may be
used on van doors
with the continuous
piano hinge
sliding panel
allows access
from inside
to van door
opening
detach about a 63/4”
length of hinge
from van door and
attach to screen
door by means of
an extension piece
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Eugene Wilson’s Van 525 screen door
this door can only be opened
as far as shown
stiffening members (optional)
screened sliding panel
carefully bend side members to fit
contour of van door opening
this type of screen door hinge
must be used on van doors
equipped with two
individual hinges
make this hinge about
14” long
make hinge pin
removable so that screen
door may be removed
and stowed away
screened
sliding
panel
Modifications
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Swag Lamp for Your Ultra Van
Tech Tip No. 72-12, 1972
Mount the lamp on a hook installed over the table. Get a 12 volt bulb and screw into the socket.
Change the two prong plug on the cord for a cigarette lighter plug and plug into your socket on the
dash. The lamp can be easily removed and stowed for travelling.
Modifications
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Cross Wind Steering Aid
Tech Tip No. 78-10, 1978
Here’s an idea if you get shoulder pains from holding the steering wheel against a hard cross
wind. Get a bungee cord about 18” long. Just hook it over a screw or something on the coffee bar
and place it either high or low on the steering wheel to counteract the force of the wind.
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Daytime Bathroom Lighting
Tech Tip No. 78-15, 1978
Is there still any coach without daytime bathroom lighting from the top vent? Many units came
from the factory with a translucent ceiling vent...but some did not. It is rather disheartening to
open the bathroom door to a pitch dark room in bright daylight. Why not cut out the center from
the metal vent cover? Just drill a 3/8” hole near each corner to make a 10” x 10” opening, then snip
or saw-out between the four drilled holes. Now cover the opening with a square-foot of clear or
translucent plastic or fiberglass sheet. Use contact cement to secure the plastic to the vent top.
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Gravity Waste System
Tech Tip No. 78-17, 1978
I recently converted the coach to a complete gravity system which eliminated all the waste water
pumps. Anyone interested in converting to this system may check it out at the San Diego Rally in
January.
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Reducing Wear on Emergency Brake Cables
Author: Dick Siegrist #225
Tech Tip No. 79-01, 1979
Short pieces of flattened 3/8” nylon tubing are drilled on each end and screwed between the bottom
of the coach and the cable.
Modifications
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383
More Storage Beside Front Wheel Wells
Tech Tip No. 79-02, 1979
You can get a nice storage space 7” x 13” x 32” by converting the triangular space formed by the
top of the wheel well cover into a rectangular space by making the side vertical.
Modifications
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Sun Visor Drapes
Author: Simone Honer #492
Tech Tip No. 79-04, 1979
A good way to protect your eyes and help you see ahead when driving into a bright sun is to cut a
piece of fabric (which might match the drapes) long enough to go from one side of the windshield
to the other, which is just wide enough to extend down from the attach point above to a level just
above the eyes. Make sure it does not obstruct your view of the traffic. This will save the “fiddling” with the sun visors which can be difficult, and it also cuts down on the heat on a hot day.
Metal snaps can be installed above the windshield so the shade can be un-snapped when not
needed.
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Ultra Van Cancelling Turn Signals
Author: Dick Evans #446
Tech Tip No. 79-05, 1979
First, with a screwdriver, remove the center horn button and the 3/4” nut on the shaft. Be sure the
wheels are dead ahead, then remove the steering wheel. After removing the wheel, look into the
cup, and dollars to donuts, you’ll see several gadgets that look like part of a turn-signal
switch...which it is without the lever sticking out.
If you find this, great, leave the Ultra where it is, and head for the junkyard. You’re looking for a
Corvair panel truck, pick-up or station wagon. If you can’t find one, don’t despair, I’ll fix you up
later.
If you find one, remove the steering wheel and you’ll notice something similar to the Ultra with
several important differences...the most significant being there is a turn signal lever sticking out.
Notice there is a small black tube that looks like a wire from under the cup to the dashboard. This
is not an electrical wire but a cable that actuates a remote switch...DON’T cut it.
Follow the cable down under the dash and where it terminates there is an impressive looking
switch with a six prong plug and lots of wires coming out of it. Remove the plug...cut the electrical wires leaving 6 inches or so. Put the plug and wire in your pocket. Then remove two screws
holding the switch and slide it out and disconnect remote cable from the switch.
Next, under the cup on the steering column, find a fairly large Phillips head screw. Loosen this and
tap a few times so it pops-up into the cup. Now you should be able to pull the cup, cable and
switch off. Lay it aside carefully. Now, on the underside of the steering wheel, you’ll find a
stamped metal part with two prongs sticking down, held to the wheel by two capscrews. Remove
this and put it in your pocket along with the screws.
Go to the office...pay for your loot and before the day is over you’ll have cancelling turn signals
on your Ultra. At the Ultra, remove the cup and install the one from the wrecking yard. Mount the
switch at a convenient location under the dash. Remove the insulation from the wires on the plug
and after turning off the batteries cut the existing Ultra turn signal wires. Strip off the insulation
from each wire and connect the wires to the plug as follows:
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Plug Wire Color
Ultra Van Wire Color
red
brown
blue
green
green
yellow
white
white
yellow
red
purple
blue
Check your work carefully before soldering and taping the connections. Insert the plug in the
switch, turn the battery on...you should have right and left turn signals plus stop lights when you
work it by hand. Now, turn over the steering wheel and install the stamped metal piece removed at
the junk yard with the two capscrews. Re-install the wheel in the same position it came off. Don’t
tighten it until the final test. Turn on the right signal, turn the wheel right then back... it cancels?
Do the same to the left....if all goes well tighten the steering wheel nut and re-install the horn button clean up your mess, pour yourself a stiff drink...you’ve earned it. Now you have a nice turn
signal without the J.C. gadget offending your eyes. You’ve lost the hazard light but you can get a
replacement from old J.C. and install it according to instructions.
Oh yes....in case you couldn’t find a Corvan at the junkyard, Clark’s Corvair Parts, Shelburne
Falls, MA 01370 lists the switch you need as part number C3697, without the control cable. You
can improvise the cable using your present steering column cup and internal mechanism. All you
need is the cancelling cam and lever which you can find at junkyard or Corvair flea market.
The above set-up works beautifully on #446. If you run into trouble, drop me a line and I’ll try to
straighten you out.
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Water Heater Energy Conservation
Tech Tip No. 79-08, 1979
Speaking of energy saving, every coach owner should follow this good tip to cut down on propane
consumption. Once the water is hot in the waterheater tank, the pilot light alone will keep it hot
for all average use....except maybe for more than two showers close together. Why supply fuel for
that big licking flame just to get immediate recovery every time you open the faucet. Surprised
this works! I was. Merely leave your water heater valve on “pilot”, no need to turn it to the “on”
position. This really cuts down on propane use.
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Conserving Fresh Water
Tech Tip No. 79-09, 1979
Instead of pushing the knob at the rear of the throne, or the foot pedal, etc. (some Ultras are different) to get flushing water, I hooked up a 5/8” hose to the sink basin drain. We find that every time
we wash our hands, there is enough water to supply the throne for a flush. That’s making the wash
basin water work twice. Not much of a job, just disconnect the old drain that goes to the holding
tank. Drill a hole right thru the stole at the rear up near the seat. Now push the garden hose into the
hole and hook the other end up to the basin drain. Job done, lots of water saved forever thereafter.
Modifications
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Ultra Tank Repairs
Author: Michael Leary #416
Tech Tip No. 79-10, 1979
Tanks are expensive to replace but can be repaired easily: Cut out two 18” square holes in the tank
top. Working through these openings, you can clean the inside, then fiberglass the entire interior.
It’s an easy way to save the cost of having a new tank made. Your old tank is a “form” or support,
just renew the inside. The top openings are fiberglassed over as the final step.
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Transmission Saver
Tech Tip No. 79-12, 1979
Back in 1946, I wrote a book on improving mileage and the performance of cars. Now with gasoline prices going up and up, we might try one of these suggestions to add extra mileage to you
coach and miles to the transmission. At each stoplight where you expect the light to hold you over
a half minute, put the shift lever into neutral. Doing this will not only allow the transmission to
cool down a bit, but will relieve the load on the engine, helping to increase its life and extend its
performance and total road mileage before repair.
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You Can Improve Your Brakes
Tech Tip No. 80-03, 1980
If your not satisfied with your brakes, an improvement can be made by removing part of the PRIMARY lining from the brake shoe.
The PRIMARY shoes are towards the front of the vehicle. First, make sure the lining of the primary shoe is an inch farther away from the top center pin than the secondary lining. If less, saw
off or remove enough material so it is at least an inch further away than the secondary lining.
Second, File out cross-sections of lining one inch or more wide at two or three places on the primary shoe. This can be done without removing the shoes from the back plate. Mechanically, with
less area, the “wrap-up” force on the drum will be much greater with any given brake pedal pressure.
You say, “the linings will wear out faster.” That’s true...but the way we load our coaches, in case
of panic-need we want to be able to stop. New linings every 40,000 miles or so is little to pay for
that assurance, especially for those that load HEAVY.
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Free Ice Cubes
Tech Tip No. 80-04, 1980
I installed a 200 watt electronic inverter that makes 120 volt AC to run the refrigerator from a 12
volt battery.
This is not that new, as many of us use inverters for electric shavers, tv, etc., but with this heavy
duty inverter, I can run down the road much safer by not having the propane on. Its safer and saves
propane.
True, it takes a bit more gasoline to charge the battery but not that much. RV refrigerators usually
draw less than 200 watts but it is best to check and match the inverter to the load. As soon as you
stop, switch over to propane to prevent battery rundown.
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Sharpen Up Your Coaches
Author: Anita Tefft #277
Tech Tip No. 80-06, 1980
Sandpaper the rough spots, then buy three gallons of quality off-white auto/truck enamel. Mask
the windows and chrome, rent a tank-type air compressor and spray gun. Tackle the job with confidence....it is easy.
If I can do an acceptable job (see 277 at the next rally), so can you.
Preparation and masking take the longest...the actual spray painting can be done in an afternoon.
Do the top first, then the sides and ends. Use a fine light spray (so there will be no runs). After the
first coat, go over it again, then do a final heavier coat for smoothness and shine.
Next, fill the gouges in the bumpers with exterior spackle paste and paint them with any good synthetic enamel using a medium stiff 2” wide brush. Finally, shine up your wheel discs and come to
the next rally in style...
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More On Brakes
Author: Herb Elkins #239
Tech Tip No. 80-07, 1980
Another word on hydraulic brake lines is a good reminder to everyone that brake lines and hoses
should be inspected and the rubber examined carefully for deterioration and cracking. Depending
on climate and other factors, they may need to be replaced every five years or so.
They cost so little and your security is greatly increased. Also, since the steel lines have rusted out
on so many coaches, it is important to check the lines from the master cylinder, especially along
the left side of the coach inside the hull back to the rear brakes.
At least remove the tank divider panels and reach in the left channel to raise the tubing up out of
the dirt that accumulates there. If not rusted badly, put in some wooden blocks or the like and oil
or grease the tube to retard rust.
Some members have installed new steel tubing either inside the hull (a tough job), or have rerouted it outside the coach body where it can be kept painted. This is the easiest as the old line can
be abandoned.
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Master Cylinder Self-Feeder
Tech Tip No. 80-08, 1980
Yes, I’ve increased the weight of 434 a few ounces with a master cylinder self-feeder.
Using a 1 inch transparent plastic vial about 8 inches long mounted on the steering column there
is a small neoprene hose extending down to a stub copper pipe pressed into an enlarged vent hole
in the top of the master cylinder. If there is any leak in the brake system, it is immediately visible
as the level in the plastic vial will lower.
Also, if a line should partly “open” there is a bit of a reserve supply of fluid to stop you safely.
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Know Your Liters/Litres
Tech Tip No. 80-10, 1980
A liter of gasoline is 1.0567 US Liquid Quarts or a quart is 0.946 of a liter (3.784 liters per US
gallon). A gas station sign reading 33.8 cents per liter, becomes about $1.28 per gallon. For rough
calculation use 3.8 liters per gallon, then multiply 3.8 times the price per liter, to get the gallon
price......easy, isn’t it.
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Vital Gauges
Tech Tip No. 80-14, 1980
If you don’t have a Vacuum, Cylinder Head Temperature and Oil Pressure gauge, I strongly advise
you to get these installed as soon as possible. In hot weather, they can be the difference between a
burnt piston and an easy trip home. When the cylinder head temperature goes well above normal
or the oil pressure drops below normal, let up on the throttle to bring the vacuum up and hold as
high a reading as possible, even if it means shifting to the lower gear. If anyone has questions on
this subject, I am sure they can get them answered at the next rally.
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Split Air Conditioner
Author: Jean McMasters #330
Tech Tip No. 80-15, 1980
The old roof unit was near 200 pounds, and by splitting it into two pieces with the air exchange
unit built into the area above the propane heater, the total weight has been reduced to about 80
pounds. The roof line is now smoother which makes the coach handle better.
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Ballast Resistor and C/D Ignition
Author: Ted Kollar #475
Tech Tip No. 80-18, 1980
When using the Capacitive Discharge type electronic ignition, the ballast resistor should be
shorted-out. These units are designed to work on the full 12 volts. Road & Track Magazine
November 1972 has an article covering complete tests of many makes of electronic ignition.
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Ice Box?
Tech Tip No. 80-20, 1980
The “Dometic” brand of reefer (or any other brand) makes a very good ice box. Yes it does. If you
run out of propane or your electric refrigerator fails to work for any reason, just shop around for a
square/oblong plastic pan 6” to 8” high that will fit in between the shelves. Now buy a bag of ice
cubes and pour them into the pan. You’ll find your new “ice box” will perform beautifully in such
an emergency. Ours did last summer, even when driving in desert heat.
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Prevent Refrigerator Failure
Tech Tip No. 80-21, 1980
If park for over 5 minutes on any steep grade, shut off the propane. We shopped for an hour with
the coach parked at a steep angle but since we weren’t going to be in it, what difference did it
make. Plenty, the flame crystallized the refrigerant inside the heat-exchanger tube. It cost $150 for
a replacement element. Save money...park within a half bubble or so out-of-level or...turn off the
flame until ready to move.
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Push/Pull Control Cables (Power Plant)
Tech Tip No. 87-08, 1987
Heavy Duty Flexible Steel Push/Pull control cable – for distributors and accelerators to allow
manual adjustment of the timing from the dash and to allow the accelerator cable to be moved
inside the coach. These cables are available in lengths from 2 to 20 feet. Styles vary, some have
neoprene outer covers and some are steel coil flex metal.
Diameters range from 3/16” to 1/2”. Some are bulkhead and some are conventional. Specify length
needed.
Price: $1.00 per foot P/N 0307
E.T. Supply Co.
P.O. Box 78190
5055 Exposition Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90016
213-734-2430
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Water Heater Economy
Tech Tip No. 87-12, 1987
At the Lake Havasu City Rally, we were reminded again that the pilot light of the water heater will
pretty well keep the water hot. This saves propane because there is generally little need for that
big licking flame to give immediate recovery each time a little hot water is used. Try this.
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Dead Battery
Tech Tip No. 87-13, 1987
Will this tip be useful to some club member?
An ammeter on your dash that continues to indicate “battery charging” after long hours of driving,
might just be telling you something... maybe that one of your batteries has developed an internal
short. If at all possible, feel the side of the batteries... if one is hotter than the other, it is the bad
one.
Of course there are other (and better) strategies, but without special test instruments, for many of
we average Joes, the above is OK. Driving to Paradise, we had a bit of a shock to discover our two
LIFETIME batteries were apparently failing. I pried the covers off and determined both had full
fluid levels.
After the rally, when stopping for lunch at Chico we couldn’t start. A kind young fellow offered to
“jump” with his car battery to get us going. We didn’t stop again until arriving at a store with an
Auto Department under which our “LIFETIME” guarantee would be valid.
There were all kinds of excuses...a motorhome is not a car, etc. I had to use my pet line, “I’m the
President of my Corporation, hope I won’t have to go to the President of your Corporation regarding this matter”. Department managers don’t like customers going OVER THEIR HEADS....he
made an immediate adjustment, a new battery, no charge, in exchange for my “hot” one. In our
case apparently the shorted battery took 100% of the charge. We had a PERFECTLY GOOD
BATTERY and didn’t know it (it only lacked a charge).
Hereafter, I’ll be alternating the main Battery Disconnect Switches to charge one battery while
driving one day, the other the next. This suggests other alternatives. You may wish to read this
over again to get the meat. The problem wasn’t disturbing, just annoying.
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Power Brake with Compressed Air
Author: Al Lyles #499
Tech Tip No. 87-21, 1987
Unfortunately, excitement can lead to minor disappointment when a new owner discovers his RV
has lackadaisical stopping power at best.
Here is a relatively inexpensive solution to the problem of poor braking. It’s called Brake Guard,
and is distributed by Safe Guard Products of Spokane, Washington. Brake Guard cost is $549.00
installed. It is not available as a kit for the do-it-yourself owner.
The system consists of two neoprene compressed air reservoirs that are installed between the master and wheel cylinders of a vehicles brake system, thus converting it to an air-over-hydraulic
arrangement. One reservoir is placed off a tee in each brake circuit (either front/rear or diagonal).
It will not affect brake balancing or proportioning valves.
Company claims a 30% increase in stopping power, and 80% increase in pad/rotor or shoe/drum
life by using the air over hydraulic system. It has a 150,000 mile warranty, and a money back
guarantee. Once Brake Guard is installed, the vehicle must be returned every five years to have it
serviced at a cost of $49.95.
California Distributor:
Precision Braking Systems
9329 Frankfort Ave.
Fontana, CA 92335
714-822-3175 or 619-375-4346
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Avoiding P/G Front Pump Shaft Damage
Tech Tip No. 87-26, 1987
Possible damage of the PowerGlide front pump shaft during drivetrain assembly.
Solution: After the drivetrain is out of the coach, remove the front pump cover (12 bolts), being
careful not to spill out the insides. Now pull the front pump shaft. Replace the cover with 2 bolts
only. Put the other 10 bolts and shaft in a safe place. Hopefully, this will remind us to reinstall the
shaft before putting the drive train back in the coach. Now you can split-up the drive units as
required.
Upon reassembly, when all together (differential on the bell housing, PowerGlide on the differential) now remove the front pump cover, reinstall the shaft, SAFELY. New seal, all 12 bolts, nice,
easy, safe. Front pump shafts are becoming hard to find, and to ruin one needlessly is foolish.
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Alternators
Tech Tip No. 87-27, 1987
If you decide to change alternators (external to internal regulator), the two drawings below show
the difference in the wiring.
In any change of alternators, be sure of the following:
1. The fan on the pulley end of the alternator must be Corvair if used on that engine. It
rotates opposite from other alternators.
2. On Corvair engines, use the end bell from the Corvair alternator for the correct mounting holes.
3. The internal regulator requires a different connector which is readily available at most
auto supply stores.
4. When changing alternators, (if used) disassemble the one to be installed, check for worn
brushes, bearings and clean off any rust or corrosion from connectors. Check the diodes in
both directions, they are electrical checkvalves so should pass current only one way.
Although these sketches show grounds, they are not needed on the Corvair as it is well grounded
with the mounting bolts.
to indicator
light
4
3
to indicator
light
2
to battery
bus
F
regulator
RF
RF
heavy wire
to battery
B
external regulator
alternator
heavy wire
to battery
B
internal regulator
alternator
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What To Carry – Tools, Spares, Equipment
Tech Tip No. 88-16, 1988
At a recent rally, the topic of “What spare parts should be carried at all times in the Ultra” was discussed, and the following list of items was the result. You may want to add or delete items, but this
will get you started. The list is broken down into five categories: carried spares, equipment, books
& catalogs, tools and spares at home.
SPARES CARRIED IN COACH
1. Brake line repair kit (hoses, plugs & hard line)
2. Spark Plug Wire Set
3. Coil, condenser, points, rotor & distributor cap
4. Small screws for condenser & points
5. Spark Plugs (1 to 6/8)
6. “U” joints (2)
7. “U” joint straps & bolts (4 ea.)
8. Bearings & seals, front & rear wheels (1 set ea.)
9. Alternator/Generator rebuild kit
10. Rubber hose, for oil, engine, etc.
11. Hose Clamps, various sizes
12. V Belts, Blower – Corvair, Water pump – V8
13. Idler Pulley – Corvair
14. Oil – Engine, transmission, rear axle
15. Rear Spindle Assembly L & R unless modified for both
16. Tow Cable (nylon with hook)
17. Tow Bar
18. Lug Nuts (6)
19. Tiara CV Boots (1)
20. Carburetor rebuild kit
21. Gas additives (octane booster, starting fluid)
22. Nut, Bolt, washer kit
23. Air Bag Lifter (to fit Ultra)
24. Voltage Regulator
25. Engine sling
26. Blower bearing with top cover (Corvair)
27. Every gasket set
28. Rocker arm (with ball, nut & stud) 2 sets Corvair
29. Valve Pushrod (2) Corvair
30. Fuel Pump (electric/mechanical)
31. Harmonic balancer
32. Oil Filter
33. Viton “O” rings (1 set) oil cooler, pushrods
34. Ignition voltage dropping resistor
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35. Sealant repair kit for tanks
36. Wiper Blades (2)
37. Silicone Sealant
38. Hydraulic Brake Fluid
39. “E” clip for Corvair Transmission
40. Transmission Modulator & governor, Corvair
EQUIPMENT
1. C.B. Radio
2. Road Flares (4 minimum)
3. Reflector Set
4. Rain-X for windshields
5. Adapter plug for 30 amp campground outlets
TECHNICAL, PARTS CATALOGS, ETC
1. Ultra Manual with updates and tech tips
2. Auto Supply Catalogs like: Clark’s, Otto, etc.
3. Ultra & Corsa Club Rosters
4. Corvair Factory Workshop Manual
TOOLS – CARRIED IN COACH
1. Puller - appropriate to early or late coach rear axle
2. Special 9/16” distributor wrench
3. Special 9/16” offset wrench for idler pulley
4. Brake Bleeder wrench
5. Assorted hand tools, pliers, vice grips, cutters, etc.
6. Volt/ohm multi-meter with dwell scale
7. Small hydraulic jack
8. Lug wrench with extension pipe
9. Wheel blocks
10. 3/8” socket set with wobble extension
11. Assorted screwdrivers
12. Grease gun with adapter for U joints
13. Propane torch set
14. Spare fuses
SPARES AT HOME
Note: these should be boxed, crated, etc. and ready for a friend or relative to ship to you if needed.
Labelled so there will be no question which unit you want.
1. Complete Engine less carbs, alternator & distributor
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2. Cylinder Heads (1 pair)
3. Transmission (auto or standard)
4. Rear axle unit
5. Complete gasket set unless carried in coach
6. Engine sling & Tow Bar (unless carried in coach)
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Water Heater as Emergency Anti-Freeze
By using the hot water heater to run hot water back into the
fresh water tank, it can be kept from freezing for a short
while.
Make a hole in the counter top, precisely in line with the center of the swing spout of the faucet when it is swung to the
side of the sink. See the drawing below.
Connect a “T” in the water fill hose beside the water pump
and connect a hose from there up through the counter top.
Put a small 4” funnel in the hose going through the counter
top.
kitchen window
Author: Hans Kraepelien #252
Tech Tip No. 88-17, 1988
SIDE
VIEW
To use, run hot water from tap into funnel which will drain
back down into the fresh water tank. When not in use,
remove funnel and cover hose with a pill bottle. If there is
any risk of water running above sink level when filling tank,
put a male hose connector on hose and cover with screw cap
(#252 never had the problem).
waterfilling
hose
FRONT VIEW
kitchen sink
4” funnel, flattened to 21/2” x 5”
(don’t try a plastic funnel)
water tank
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Hot Air Water Heater
Tech Tip No. 88-18, 1988
Corvair Ultra Van owners can enjoy hot water heated by the engine. Use a 21/2 gallon stainless fire
extinguisher, drill the ends to take a 1” thin walled tube up the center of the unit, with enough left
at each end to accept a hose that is connected to another short nipple that was welded into the
lower engine shroud (hot air is fed by the blower). The “water heater” was installed in the bathroom under the sink. The hose from the engine goes under the coach to the bath and the other end
of the pipe is exhausted out the top through the side of the coach with another pieces of hose. Hot
water is piped to the kitchen and bath. Insulated, the new “HOT AIR” heater keeps the water
warm overnight.
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Spun Pinion Gears – What To Do About It
Tech Tip No. 88-21, 1988
This is a real bummer. No “Ultra” answers seems available. Some have tried Loctite – #331, some
welding – #458 & 453, some keep their fingers crossed – #366. Tom Silvey suggests copper plating the splines. It would seem anything to reduce “shock” loads on the pinion & shaft would be
helpful. Easy shifts, low RPM engagement, etc. can’t hurt. The problem also exists in Corvair cars
(ask #448). If all else fails, just ignore it like #200 (check with Mel first on this one).
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Oil Filters – Franz Type
Author: Clyde Stanton #392
Tech Tip No. 88-22, 1988
How about using regular toilet paper for your oil filter? Its no joke...son! I know it flies in the face
of conventional thinking, but it really works. The FRANZ or AMSOIL unit is used in conjunction
to the regular PF-4 filter and is piped into the system as a by-pass type filter. If you would like
more details, contact Clyde Stanton 616-795-9078.
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415
Books & Literature
Eastwood Catalog – this catalog of auto restoration tools is free
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416
Eastwood Catalog
Tech Tip No. 88-12, 1988
Eastwood carries a really neat line of tools which are especially designed for the auto restoration
crowd. I get a new edition every year at Hershey and the price is really right.....FREE! You can
have one, too, just by calling their toll free number 1-800-345-1178.
Books & Literature
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417
Service & Parts Suppliers
Discount Gasoline – try truckstops for cheap gas and good service
Handy Men (UV Fixers) – check the Yellow Pages for general service shops
Front Fresh Air Vents – you can get adjustable fresh air vents from this source
Tanks – this source makes custom stainless steel tanks to order
Windshield Wiper Motor Source – you can buy new motors from this source
Ultra Coach Nameplates – these nameplates are going fast
Chance Fitzgerald #456 (UV Fixer) – this person is a licensed aircraft and engine mechanic
Aluminum Propane Tanks (Where To Get) – this source makes custom aluminum tanks to order
Ultra Spare Parts – parts are available from this wrecked Ultra Van
V6 Buick Conversion –replace your Corvair motor with a V6 conversion
Ultra Van Body Work by Aircraft Man – this licensed aircraft mechanic does great bodywork
Clear Lens Back-Up Light Source – this supplier only has the clear lens
Corvair Engine Specialist – this recommended Corvair mechanic is in Arizona
Florida Corvair Repair Shop – this garage has Corvair parts and mechanics
Freeze-Dried Food Suppliers – these two sources are reliable for bulk purchases
Vairs and Small Cars Garage – this recommended Corvair service place is in Oregon
Mobile RV Service in Greater Los Angeles – this general service shop comes to your door
Water Injection Supplier – several recommend this water injection system
Windshield Bull’s-eye Repairs – two sources to fix your windshield
Greasing Tools for Blower/Idler Bearings – source for these two tools
Suppliers of Tools, Materials, and Advice – sources for repairing your aluminum-bodied Ultra
Suppliers of Tools, Materials Update – more sources for Ultra repair
“Corvair Assistance” – service and parts help is just a phone call away
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Discount Gasoline
Tech Tip No. 67-01, 1967
When travelling and you need gas, head for the first big truck stop. If your tank is near empty,
often you will get the truckers fuel discount rate. This suggestion is one more way to help make
your membership pay-off. Try the big stops. Also, these truck stop fellows are extra nice and hard
working too. They often have pits as well as hoists so try them for oil changes, grease jobs, tire
switching and the like. You’ll often be pleasantly surprised.
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Handy Men (UV Fixers)
Tech Tip No. 69-20, 1969
Some Ultra Van owners are not mechanically inclined or are otherwise not able to make certain
adjustments, minor changes, or repairs desired. One of the best places to go for various small jobs
on your coach is your local Handyman Shop. The owner operator of these shops are usually verymechanical in aptitude and like to do all kinds of small repairs. Most are extremely capable and
the charges are generally reasonable. So if you want a switch moved, need a door latch adjusted, a
shelf installed or similar work, just check the Yellow pages.
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Front Fresh Air Vents
Author: Bill Richards #402
Tech Tip No. 72-15, 1972
Well designed, adjustable air vents can be ordered from RV Industries, 2220 E. Cerritos, Orange,
CA. (714-633-8401). Very detailed and clear instructions make it easy to install these foot-cooling
air vents............What relief!
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Tanks
Author: Vern Sandel #208
Tech Tip No. 72-16, 1972
We have located a source for stainless steel tanks. These are good long-lasting tanks made by a
craftsman. The tanks will be made to order from 0.015" stainless, all joints are heli-arc welded,
complete with baffles and fittings, etc.
Contact:
Irvin Good
6145 Vineland Ave.
North Hollywood, CA 91606.
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Windshield Wiper Motor Source
Tech Tip No. 74-03, 1974
New American Bosch wiper motors P/N WWF 12C18710 can be bought from Diesel Control
Corp., 226 N. Marine Ave., Wilmington, CA 90744. Cost about $40. (1975)
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Ultra Coach Nameplates
Tech Tip No. 75-04, 1975
Still have a few left, they are going fast. Order your set before they are all gone. These are the new
Ultra Coach (change from Ultra Van) nameplates made by our own Anita Tefft. They are 16-3/4”
long and 23/4” high, white plastic background with black plastic letters. $6.00 a pair, postpaid
from Ultra Coach Club, 15239 El Soneto Dr. Whittier, CA 90605
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Chance Fitzgerald #456 (UV Fixer)
Tech Tip No. 76-02, 1976
Chance was a garage mechanic for ten years and is a licensed aircraft and engine mechanic, so he
should know what he is doing. He has over 100,000 miles on his coach. We mention his services
because we know that some of you have broken down and have had to wait many weeks for parts
of work to be done. Chance has complete Corvair powerplants (110 and 140 hp) transmissions,
transaxles, for exchange and will pick up your coach (within reasonable distance), switch the unit
you want and deliver the coach for expenses. He also offers other services such as a unique screen
door, screens for the front side windows, larger rear door with screen, refrigerator conversions,
addition of permanent dinette, relocation of batteries, etc. Interested members should take a
chance with Chance. Contact him at Rt. #5, Box 244A, Talladega, AL 35160 (205) 268-2940.
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Aluminum Propane Tanks (Where To Get)
Author: Thomas Ellis #450
Tech Tip No. 76-03, 1976
Columbus, OH 43085 (614) 438-3013 make aluminum propane tanks which will fit the Ultra Van,
with minor modifications. Aluminum tanks are 40% lighter than comparable steel and will not
rust or corrode. Many members have expressed their desire to replace the heavy, steel tank with a
lightweight aluminum cylinder. Here is your chance. Send compartment dimensions and they will
send literature and prices.
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Ultra Spare Parts
Author: Victor Reisig #280
Tech Tip No. 76-04, 1976
I have a 140 hp Corvair Power unit and many other parts salvaged out of my old Ultra #235 which
was wrecked. If you need an engine, or other items like rear bed cushions, front seats, toilet and
grinder, propane heater, water heater, cabinet doors, window frames, paneling, etc. let me know.
2238 Old lake Shore Road, St. Joseph, MI 49085.
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V6 Buick Conversion
Tech Tip No. 76-05, 1976
Solar Automotive Inc., Corvair Restorers, 124B Fulton St., Princeton WI 54968 (414) 295-8861,
Art Herschberger. This company advises they have a conversion kit to replace the Corvair engine
with a 220 cu in Buick V6 bolting directly to the Corvair transaxle. If interested, call. The kit
including V6 engine is about $775 plus $525 if they do the installation.
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Ultra Van Body Work by Aircraft Man
Author: Vernon Coffey #495
Tech Tip No. 76-06, 1976
If you want an excellent bodyman for your coach, contact Leslie Hall, 2862 Dexter Ave., Denver
CO 80214, 303-388-7226. He was Supervisor of Repair Shops at Continental Airlines and his
work is great.
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Clear Lens Back-Up Light Source
Author: Harold Honer #492
Tech Tip No. 77-05, 1977
Back-Up lights (clear lens only) may be ordered from:
Peterson Mfg. Co.
4200 East 135th St.
Grandview, MO 64030.
Order part number #414-15.
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Corvair Engine Specialist
Author: Janet Hart #389
Tech Tip No. 78-05, 1978
I found a mechanic who likes to work on Corvair engines and Ultra Vans: Tom Sproes, and the
address of his small garage is Desert Auto, Route 9, Box 1360, Apache Junction, Arizona 85220.
Phone 982-2377.
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Florida Corvair Repair Shop
Author: Leroy Fowler #339
Tech Tip No. 79-03, 1979
There is a good repair shop near Milton, Florida. If you happen to be near there and need help,
call Kelly’s Kar Kare, 904-623-2210 on Highway 90 East. They have Corvair parts and Corvair
mechanics.
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Freeze-Dried Food Suppliers
Tech Tip No. 79-06, 1979
A few club members have asked for reliable sources for bulk purchases of freeze-dried and dehydrated foods. Items are available in #10 cans (nearly a gallon) hard white enameled inside, with
oxygen removed and nitrogen introduced for long term storage of meats, vegetables, etc. I’m certain there are other sources, but these two we have dealt with and they have treated us right. They
are:
S.I. Outdoor Food & Equipment
16809 Central Ave.
Carson, CA 90746
Martins Distributing Company
P.O. Box 51, Moraga, CA 94556
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Vairs and Small Cars Garage
Tech Tip No. 80-12, 1980
A recommended Corvair service place is the “Vairs and Small Cars Garage” located at 2312 Three
Lakes Rd., Albany, Oregon 97321, phone 928-5155.
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Mobile RV Service in Greater Los Angeles
Author: Lou Laslo #474
Tech Tip No. 81-13, 1981
There is a great mobile RV service offered in the greater Los Angeles area. They have been real
helpful with refrigerator problems and so on. Try Jim Reed & Sons, phone 213-359-5464.
Remember, they are mobile (a shop-on-wheels) and drive their service truck to your address.
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Water Injection Supplier
Tech Tip No. 81-24, 1981
Many Ultra owners have installed a water injection system (made by Geraghty Performance Products, 9614-C Cozycroft Ave., Chatsworth, CA 91311, phone 213-998-6080) and report very good
results using regular gas. Write them for more info.
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Windshield Bull’s-eye Repairs
Tech Tip No. 82-14, 1982
There is a new process called the “Novus Method” that completely obliterates bull’s-eyes caused
by flying rocks or the like. In southern California, you call 714-980-3439 or 213-938-5287 and
they will come right to you to do the job. The Novus deal is a franchise operation...and is available
in many areas all over the country. Also, J.C. Whitney has a kit for those who wish to do it themselves. It is listed in their catalog under “windshield repairs”.
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Greasing Tools for Blower/Idler Bearings
Tech Tip No. 85-11, 1985
Dale Manufacturing Co. (3425 Fairhaven N.E., P.O. Box 7417, Salem, OR 97303, phone 503364-8685) has developed tools to grease the blower and idler bearings. They are:
T-1 Fan Bearing Tool, $22.50
T-2 Idler Bearing Tool, $13.54 (1985 prices)
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Suppliers of Tools, Materials, and Advice
Tech Tip No. 85-18, 1985
The following are suppliers of tools, parts, material and technical advice to repair your aluminumbodied Ultra Coach.
Supplier
Products
Aircraft Tool & Supply
P.O. Box 475, 5378 #F41
Oscoda, MI 48750
phone 1-800-248-0638
tools, fasteners, etc.
free catalog
Airparts Inc.
301 North 7th St.
Kansas City, KS 66101
phone 913-321-3280
aluminum sheet stock
free catalog
next best prices
Dri Industries
11300 Hampshire Ave. S.
Bloomington, MN 55438-2498
phone 612-944-3561
hardware, rivets, wiring, etc.
free catalog
Harbor Freight Salvage
3491 Mission Oaks Blvd.
P.O. Box 6010
Camarillo, CA 93011-6010
phones 1-800-423-2567 or 805-388-3000
new tools & equipment
good prices
free sales brochure
Pratco Inc.
Lot 4, Pratten Dr.
Cleveland, GA 30528
phone 1-800-241-0701
tools, etc.
free catalog
Ryerson (Inland Steel)
nationwide – check Yellow Pages
or call 1-800-225-5578
aluminum sheet – best prices
U.S. Tool & Supply
13541 Auburn
Detroit, MI 4223
phone 1-800-521-4800
tools & aircraft parts
free catalog
Ultra Mfg. Co. (Dave Peterson)
93 Vancleave Way
Oakland, CA 94619
phone 415-531-0586 or 237-7566
original structure parts
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Suppliers of Tools, Materials Update
Tech Tip No. 86-14, 1986
Update your supplier list that was the subject of tip 85-18.
Suppliers
Products
Sierra Pacific
1801 West El Segundo
Compton, CA 90224
phone 213-636-2431
aluminum rivets,
special bolts & fasteners
Clark’s Corvair Parts Inc.
Rt. #2
Shelburne Falls, MA 01370
phones 413-625-9776/9731
answering machine 413-625-2558
excellent parts supplier
Otto Parts
9659 Remer St.
South El Monte, CA 91733
phone 213-579-5875
Corvair high performance equip.
Liberty Engineering
9300 Mason Ave.
Chatsworth CA 91311
phone 818-882-1313
aluminum rivets & fasteners
Corvair Obsolete
10620 South La Cienega Blvd.
Inglewood, CA 90304
phone 213-649-1082
specializes in hard-to-find NOS and
good used parts
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“Corvair Assistance”
Author: Jim Craig #232, Orville Eliason #65
Tech Tip No. 87-11, 1987
The Goals Of Corvair Assistance
To provide a toll free phone service to give assistance to Corvair Owners nationwide, whatever
their need or question.
To offer the same assistance to owners of Corvair related vehicles such as Ultra Vans.
To get an 800 number that referred to the vehicle. This was done with the assistance at AT&T 800
Service. The number has in it the words “THE VAIR” which was the only combination still available nationwide. We are very lucky to have it. To have such a number adds to the marques prestige
which in turn improves its value and desirability. The fact that it is easy to remember is also a big
plus.
Unfortunately, since the break-up of AT&T, we were unable to use the same number in California
without excessive cost and therefore had to settle on – “THE REO3” – for California.
To help Corvair owners that have a highway breakdown, away from home and out of reach of their
normal supply of parts, advice and help from family and friends. Assistance is as close as the
nearest phone. With the help of a computer bank information is available on near-by parts vendors, Corvair service and Vair enthusiasts that live in the area. In many cases, the problem can be
diagnosed over the phone.
To receive, store and distribute information on the availability of vehicles for sale. At present,
there is no charge for this service.
To assist Corvair owners in finding parts vendors both local and nationwide.
To assist members with technical problems. No one knows all the answers, but if we don’t know
it, we can find out. Corvair owners are a wealth of information.
To inform Corvair owners there is a national organization of Corvair Owners called the Corvair
Society of America (CORSA) and where to find local chapters.
To provide this service for a membership fee that any Corvair owner can afford. (1987 $5 per year
for family membership)
To provide service from 8:30 AM to 11 PM (California time). However, since the help works for
free, they may be out to lunch at times, so try again later. On the other hand, calls are welcome
seven days a week, holidays included.
To keep phone bills reasonable, call after 5 PM or weekends. Anytime is acceptable in an emer-
441
gency!
To promote information on this service until all Corvair owners everywhere know of CORVAIR
ASSISTANCE.
Corvair Assistance, P.O. Box 1184, Ontario, CA 91762
Orville and Dorothy Eliason, Corvair lovers since 1960
1992 NOTE: 800 number has been dropped, contact through 714-986-6543
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SAFETY
LP Tank Safety – heed this simple propane tank-filling warning
Night Security – protect against intruders with these silent security items
Carefree Sleep Security – this tip will scare away intruders at night
Propane Tank Venting – make sure your tank valve-end is sealed off from the interior
Ball Joint Bolt Check – check for loose bolts that can shear off
Drips You Can’t Live With – you can prevent dripping brake lines, cylinders, etc.
Propane System Safety – these tips should be taken seriously
Front “A” Frame Assembly Fix – avoid upper “A” arm failure with this fix
Tire Inflation – watch your tire pressure during hot weather
Ultra Van Inspection Check List – run through this check list before you start your summer trips**
Fire Hazards on the Dash – don’t start a fire on your dashboard
Signal Flares – you should carry at least two flares
Vital Parts Inspection – keep a watchful eye out on these very important parts
Dual Brake System – this is a very important safety modification
Suspension Channel Failure – make sure you don’t have this failure, and know the warning signs
Filling Propane Tanks – always heed these simple warnings
Last Chance Emergency Brake – only use this method of braking in an extreme emergency
Visibility When Stalled – use this tip when stopped by the side of a busy road
Walk-Around Check – perform this check-up before a long trip
Electrical Security – these tips will help you avoid electrical problems
Propane Tanks – a little preventive maintenance goes a long way
LP Gas Labelling Law – be aware of this new LPG law
LP Gas Labelling Law #2 – more details on this new LPG law
Fire Extinguisher Ratings – get a fire extinguisher with the proper ratings
Engine Compartment – follow this tip for engine compartment safety
Last Chance Emergency Brake Again – this tip is repeated
Fuel Pump Leaks – avoid the consequences of a fuel pump leak with this tip
Propane Regulator Recall – check if you have one of these recalled regulators
Intake and Exhaust Valves – certain valves can be very detrimental if cut or otherwise damaged
Metal Brake Line Inspection – check your brakes lines for rust-through
Ultra Van Modifications – add this modification to pre-1966 Ultras
Steering Bellcrank Inspection – find stress cracks and looseness before an accident occurs
Ball Joint Program – ball joint failure can be catastrophic; inspect now
Using Glycol Anti-Freeze – only water-cooled Ultras are affected by this safety issue
Fuel Pump – a mechanical fuel pump can add danger even when used with an electric pump
The ABCs of CPR – a CPR primer (TEMPORARILY NOT INCLUDED IN THIS VERSION)
Smoke/Fire Alarms – a smoke alarm is essential in an Ultra
Accelerator Linkage – problems with this linkage can result in bad idling
Ultra Van 115 Volt Wiring – check wiring safety with this device
Security – Night Time – a well-placed siren provides added safety
Ball Joint/Knuckle Inspection – look for these warning signs of a bad lower ball joint
Safety Switch for Electric Fuel Pumps – avoid this hazard when you use an electric fuel pump
Smoke Sensor with Silencer – how to avoid setting off the alarm while cooking
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443
LP Tank Safety
Tech Tip No. 66-08, 1966
When having your LP tank filled, it is wise to first turn off the main valve at the tank. Some new
propane bulk plants use tremendous pressure and can over-fill. Once last fall we got eleven gallons-plus squeezed into our ten gallon tank. If raw propane is forced-out inside the coach with the
pilot lights lit.....the caution is obvious. There may be no danger, but why not play it safe.
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Night Security
Author: John Kortlander #256
Tech Tip No. 69-06, 1969
At night keep a can of “Flame-Out”, a pressure can of CO2, and Carbon Tetrachloride near by. It
is protection against any intruder who tries to enter after dark. One blast disables for at least a half
hour and shoots over 25 feet distance. This is good silent security and is better than firearms.
Don’t use on fires as it can cause acrid fumes. These are not sold in L.A. county.
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445
Carefree Sleep Security
Author: Morris Buswell #420
Tech Tip No. 69-18, 1969
When camped, just before retiring, turn “on” your emergency blinker switch (pull the turn signal
handle out) and turn off both main battery switches. In the event of a prowler or an unusual noise
outside, without getting up, merely reach over and flick one of the battery switches on. No
thief....no matter how hardened...is going to hang around, steal a tire, break into a coach that is
dark inside and suddenly “alive” outside. ‘Nuff said!
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446
Propane Tank Venting
Tech Tip No. 70-14, 1970
During hot days is the most likely time the LPG tank safety vent is most apt to “pop-off” as the
gas expands. Liquid Petroleum Gas expands from the engine heat and while at rest from the hot
sun. Never fill over 80 percent and even then when temperatures are high the safety valve may
“blow” if the tank pressure is too great. Be sure your Ultra has the valve-end of the tank sealed off
from the coach interior. A few left Hutchison without the shielding, any vent-off gas can get inside
and cause a fire. We don’t want an explosion, not even a tiny puff from any coach. Sealing the end
of the tank to vent only outside is quite a simple job. Check...it...now, be......sure.
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447
Ball Joint Bolt Check
Tech Tip No. 70-15, 1970
Members should have a reliable mechanic check the torque of all the hex bolts holding of the four
ball joints where they attach to the front “A” frames. Bolts have been found loose. If one is loose,
the others can sheer off. Once tightened correctly the fix should be permanent.
1992 NOTE: The bolts on some coaches have pulled out of the lower aluminum “A” frame. See
the Ultra Van Manual, Section 9 Pages 23 and 24 for a more permanent fix.
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448
Drips You Can’t Live With
Tech Tip No. 71-03, 1971
If your engine or transmission drips oil, forget it, you can keep on going and fix it later. But!, if
your brake lines, connections, or wheel cylinders drip, STOP, LOOK and get it fixed immediately.
To forestall trouble, it is a good idea to inspect the whole brake system periodically. Check lines
and connections for signs of rubbing and leaks. Remove the wheels and check each wheel cylinder for signs of leaks. Also, look for the tell-tale drip on the brake plate of tires. Spray the brake
lines with WD-40. It will help keep them from rusting. Keep the brake master cylinder full.
If you have too much free pedal travel, throw the Ultra in reverse, gun it and hit the brakes hard.
The automatic adjusters will take up the slack and give you more pedal. Do it several times each
trip. Watch carefully behind while doing this.
“More Brake Dope” on some vans, the pitman steering arm rubs on a brake line. Pull up the floor
board to check for clearance and at the same time, check the bolts holding the steering housing.
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449
Propane System Safety
Tech Tip No. 71-04, 1971
Not enough can be said regarding propane safety. Never over-fill the tank. When filling the tank,
close the main valve and extinguish all pilot lights in the van. In hot weather, usually after filling
the tank, the pop-off valve may blow to relieve the pressure in the tank. Make sure this valve is
properly vented outside. Also, put a protective covering of fine screen over the pop-off valve to
prevent foreign objects from falling into the valve. In freezing weather the propane gas regulator
may malfunction due to condensation. To remedy, remove gauge, pour 1/2 cup of alcohol into the
tank. Ordinary rubbing alcohol is ok.
WARNING: Be sure the tank is empty and all pressure is relieved before removing gauge. Keep
open flames away and work slowly so as not to strike any sparks. Check all propane lines, especially the one near the rear wheel. Make sure it is not rubbing on the tire. Apply soapy solution to
all connections to check for leaks.
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450
Front “A” Frame Assembly Fix
Tech Tip No. 71-09, 1971
A number of vehicles have reported failures on the upper “A” arm where the ball joint is bolted in.
The fix as added at the factory is to weld a 1” x 1/4” steel strap around the end of the ball joint
attach plate. This only applies to later vehicles which have turnbuckles on the upper “A” arm.
1992 NOTE: Drawing shown in Ultra Van Manual Section 09-20.
0.25”
NOTE: failures occurred here on
attaching plate without the reinforcement
welds
1.00”
added reinforcement
NOTE: this reinforcement
should be added and
properly welded as shown
to preclude failure of
the attaching plate.
Section A-A
full size showing reinforcement
welded to attaching plate
A
A
NOTE 1: The attaching plate bolts to
the upper ball joint. Make sure that
these bolts are always tight.
attaching plate
NOTE 2: Check your vehicle.
It may already have this fix.
If not, any good welding
shop can fix the
reinforcement and weld
it without removing
the A frame.
turnbuckle assemblies
NOTE: older vehicles do not have these turnbuckles
Front Turnbuckle Assembly Fix
2 required per vehicle
Drawn by: Ed Martin
Date: 20 July 1971
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451
Tire Inflation
Tech Tip No. 72-13, 1972
Safety note for summer driving. Tire inflation pressure should be closely watched as the weather
changes. For every 10 degrees variation in temperature, pressure in your tires will go up or down
approximately one pound.
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452
Ultra Van Inspection Check List
Tech Tip No. 73-01, 1973
Now we come to the bolts and nuts. With the crocuses ready to pop their little heads, it is time to
look over our coaches to see that they are in good shape for the coming summer miles ahead. We
have prepared a four page Ultra Van Safety Inspection Check List covering all the vital systems
and components of the van. We will be glad to send you a copy on receipt of a stamped selfaddressed envelope. We are sure most members will have no difficulty in understanding the list
and checking the items themselves. But, if it is all Greek to you. Don’t panic, take the list to your
favorite garage or mechanic who knows the van.
1992 NOTE: List is in the back of this document.
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453
Fire Hazards on the Dash
Tech Tip No. 73-04, 1973
With ‘ol Sol getting hotter and higher in the sky every day, watch those shiny, reflective articles in
the coach. Fires have been started by the sun shining through bottles, glasses etc. which can have
a magnifying effect.
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454
Signal Flares
Tech Tip No. 73-05, 1973
Always carry at least two flares in the coach. At the first sign of trouble or tire failure, it is better to
run on a flat a short way to get off the highway than to take a chance stopping on the road. Put the
flares out as soon as you stop. It is better to loose a tire than your life!
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455
Vital Parts Inspection
Tech Tip No. 73-07, 1973
The vital parts to watch are as follows: front suspension, steering mechanism, shock absorbers,
spring attach points, upper & lower “A” frames, ball joints & bolts, front and rear wheel bearings,
seals, brakes, alignment, u joints, drive shafts, engine mount bolts, fuel system including pump,
lines and filter. The ignition system of distributor, coil, wires and plugs also are vital parts.
Never prop open the engine cooling dampers on a Corvair motor. If GM could have saved a penny
by leaving them off, they would have done so. These dampers are necessary as their modulating
action keeps the engine running efficiently at the optimum temperature.
Also, remember the rear wheel bearings are OVERLOADED by about 50% of design load, so if
they have more than 30,000 miles on them they should be serviced.
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456
Dual Brake System
Author: Arthur Merrifield #476
Tech Tip No. 78-06, 1978
A very important safety modification is to install a dual master cylinder system. Details for parts
and assembly have been sent to Len Ryerson.
1992 NOTE: See Ultra Coach Manual Section 11 pages 22 to 28 for complete details and drawings for this important installation.
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457
Suspension Channel Failure
Author: George Rakous #342
Tech Tip No. 78-07, 1978
A 21/2 inch crack appeared at the right rear out-board aluminum channel extrusion. The main suspension transfer point in the rear. The failure was discovered after noting a sudden uneven wear of
the tire.
1992 NOTE: See Ultra Coach Manual Section 9, page 38 for a prevention fix.
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458
Filling Propane Tanks
Tech Tip No. 78-12, 1978
There’s been a few propane accidents, so it might be well to repeat some of our safety rules. Turn
off all pilot lights before refilling the tank. Shut off the main supply valve and never fill the tank
more than 80% full.
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459
Last Chance Emergency Brake
Tech Tip No. 79-11, 1979
If your Ultra brakes should ever fail, you still have another final alternative in case of some emergency when you must be able to stop quickly. As a last straw, we can always shift into reverse.
Doing this will stop you quickly, skid the tires and may damage the transmission, although in one
case no harm was done. Be sure to warn the co-pilot before you do it, or you might lose her out
through the windshield. A good case for a seat-belt.
CAUTION: Do NOT use this method except in a dire emergency. This caution does not apply to
Model “T” Fords.
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Visibility When Stalled
Tech Tip No. 80-02, 1980
If you must stop for any reason on a roadway, be it two, four or six lanes wide, here is an excellent
tip from a helpful Patrolman that could save an accident.......
Immediately on stopping, turn on your emergency blinkers, then place a couple of lighted flares
one hundred feet behind your vehicle and set-up any warning devices you carry.
NOW THE TIP: Be it night or in bright daylight, get some bright white or yellow cloth (an old
shirt, a sheet, tablecloth, pillowcase, etc.) put it around a tool box, carton, or what have you, and
place this two hundred feet to the rear of your rig, right next to the traffic lane.
White shows up tremendously, even if it is raining and will alert fast traffic that there is a problem
ahead. Flares soon burn out, but your white or yellow tablecloth will be there to protect you. The
officer suggests putting several kinds of these signals up to 300 feet back if stalled on a heavily
travelled road.
1992 NOTE: Florescent Rain Ponchos make a great emergency road flag.
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461
Walk-Around Check
Tech Tip No. 81-02, 1981
Close inspection of the running gear before each trip is a MUST for SAFETY. Inspect steering
linkage, lug nuts, wheels for cracks (up around the rim and down to the hub) inside and outside
surfaces, U-joints (for lubrication and any signs of extreme wear), A-frames (for cracks and wear
or loose ball joint bolts) and radius rods or turnbuckle braces. This type of inspection is for TRIP
SAFETY and NOT to be considered as a REGULAR maintenance job done.
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462
Electrical Security
Tech Tip No. 81-14, 1981
Several members have had electrical problems and again it was noted that the Coaches are all over
ten years old. Copper hardens with age (and cold-flows somewhat) and electrical connections can
loosen as a result of this process. Periodically, every connection should be checked for a secure
connection. A Volt-Ohm Multimeter is a MUST tool and should be in every coach. Crimp and
plug connectors cause trouble...the best way is to make all solder connections. Rosin core solder
is the only kind to use....acid core is corrosive and thus makes a poor electrical contact.
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463
Propane Tanks
Tech Tip No. 81-15, 1981
Propane tanks by law must be inspected periodically...both for your safety and the safety of the
filler. Some dealers will not fill a tank without this inspection stamp. Pop-off valves on earlier
tanks are set at a lower level than the later tanks. These should be reset or replaced with the newer
valves. Next time your tank is empty, take it out, get it inspected and determine if it would be wise
to have the valve replaced. Make sure an inspection stamp and date are on the tank.
Len Ryerson stresses Preventive Maintenance......practice it, you will be glad you did in the long
run. All it takes is time.....not money.
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464
LP Gas Labelling Law
Tech Tip No. 82-13, 1982
Not everyone in the club may be aware of the new law which requires all vehicles with concealed
pressurized fuel tanks to have the access door marked with at least one inch high block letters “L
P G”. In California, its Vehicle Code Section 27909. Some states are beginning to enforce the
code with hefty fines. Don’t wait until you get a ticket. Those travelling from other states that have
not enacted the code yet may not be fined, but when you stop to think about it, maybe it is a good
idea regardless. In case of an unforeseen accident, even a stranger will know where to turn off the
valve.
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465
LP Gas Labelling Law #2
Tech Tip No. 82-15, 1982
Trailer life Magazine, September 1982, page 8 reports California RV owners must comply by January 1, 1983 with a new law (California Vehicle Code Section 27909): “Any vehicle transporting
liquefied petroleum or natural gas in a concealed area, including trunks, or compartments under
the vehicle, shall display on the exterior of the vehicle the letters “CNG”, “LNG” or “LPG”
whichever fuel is utilized, in BLOCK letters at least 1 inch high. The letters shall be of contrasting
color and shall be placed as near as possible to the area of the tank location. It shall be unlawful
after January 1, 1983 to put liquefied petroleum or natural gas into any tank in a concealed area of
a vehicle registered in California, unless the vehicle complies with these requirements.” It may be
just possible that in the future, the same requirement may hold true in other states.
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466
Fire Extinguisher Ratings
Author: Dennis D’Amico #383
Tech Tip No. 83-09, 1983
When looking for fire extinguishers for your coach, it is recommended you buy only those that are
rated for A, B, and C fires which cover everything including electrical fires rather than just B and
C ratings which are for oil and grease fires only.
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467
Engine Compartment
Tech Tip No. 83-16, 1983
I’ve warned many members about this, but do not recall having written it up as a tip. Some time
ago, #603 had a fire in the engine compartment. In the “heat” of all the excitement, the cause was
thought to have been caused by transmission fluid having foamed out the dip-stick tube onto the
hot exhaust manifold. NOT TRUE! A few years earlier, I installed a “Goose Juice” supply, with a
tiny pump activated by a dash push button switch. That way, the engine could be “top oiled” at
will, directly into the top of the carburetor with Gum-Out, CD-2, etc. A wonderful idea that
worked perfectly. A month after the fire, (and brain functioning normally again), it occurred to me
that I should check my “Goose Juice” supply. What goes on? There wasn’t any pump, no rubber
tubes, no glass jar, no nothing. Then it “dawned” on me – engine heat had cracked the quart glass
jar and #603 was on fire! For your own protection, do not ever carry a glass container of flammable fluids in the engine compartment.
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468
Last Chance Emergency Brake Again
Tech Tip No. 83-17, 1983
Stepping on a rake, reminds me about stepping on the brake.
If you are going down hill and your coach brakes should fail, besides shifting into low gear, what
other alternatives do you have if you still can’t get slowed down.
In the remote event your coach brakes fail, Fred Leary #434 says a person can shift into
REVERSE as a last resort, (don’t do it except in a real emergency). This tip (from 1979) is published again for newer members.
We can all use a little peace of mind knowing there are “alternatives” in case a problem develops
with your car or coach, might just help.
1992 NOTE: This really works with the Ultra both Corvair and V-8 varieties with the 2 speed
PowerGlide, but most later automatic transmissions often have a lock-out feature that will not
allow it to go into reverse gear if going forward at any appreciable speed.
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469
Fuel Pump Leaks
Tech Tip No. 85-06, 1985
Excessive fuel pump leaking can collect in the lower rear skid plate housing and under proper
conditions could be ignited by arcing of the alternator brushes or some other source, causing
extensive damage or possible loss of the vehicle.
Due to an accumulation of dirt, oil, etc. inside the skid plate, fuel could collect 1” or more before
draining out a joint in the shrouding.
Remedy: Clean out all oil, dirt, bolts, washers, etc. and from the lower side drill a 1/4” hole at each
forward lower left and right corners of the skid plate.
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470
Propane Regulator Recall
Tech Tip No. 85-09, 1985
If you happen to have a “REGO #210” Propane Regulator, you should be aware that the factory
has sent out a flyer to warn these regulators are prone to failure and could release high pressure
liquefied gas to the appliances. The REGO #210 regulators were produced before 1973. Rego
Manufacturing has a special toll-free line 1-800-638-2772 if any member has a question.
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471
Intake and Exhaust Valves
Author: Howard Bozo #453
Tech Tip No. 86-06, 1986
Be advised, certain valves (intake and exhaust) can be VERY detrimental to your health. Some
valves have a hollow stem (loaded for cooling), with a chemical like SODIUM, which may
EXPLODE if struck with a hammer or cut open with a saw. The average person cannot tell visually which valves have these materials, so DON’T strike any valve with a hammer or try to CUT
one off to use as a punch.
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472
Metal Brake Line Inspection
Author: Robert Bobb #274
Tech Tip No. 86-09, 1986
During a routine check under the front floor-boards there was what appeared to be a rusty spot on
one hydraulic brake line. In scraping at it with a screwdriver, to my surprise fluid began to run out.
Several other lines were found to be in the same rusty condition. Of particular concern are the
other lines that lay in the bottom of hidden cavities or those with fiberglass or other materials laying on them. In addition, are those in the open areas of the wheel wells. Inspect all visible lines
and replace any that are rusty. Most auto parts stores sell pre-made lines of various lengths.
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473
Ultra Van Modifications
Tech Tip No. 86-32, 1986
This Tip is an extract from Dave’s message to the club on its 20th Anniversary.
Many would have given up on maintenance problems if it were not for the Ultra Maintenance
Manual. If you are on the road and need the help of a mechanic not familiar with the Ultra or need
a part or if you call me, the manual makes it so much easier to communicate.
I am proud of the Ultra Van and the fact it has stood up so well without major basic structural
problems, even though the empty weight has skyrocketed from my original specifications. The use
of foam insulation in place of spun glass and the structure carrying the V8 engine are two big
ones. The turnbuckles on the “A” frames added a lot of weight and actually are not as strong as a
tube, due to the deep cut threads.
Many people are carrying much more in provisions and spare parts than I ever considered. The
design gross weight was 4,600 pounds and there are many weighing over that empty. The bottom
line is, it has stood up to a lot of punishment.
Incidentally, for those of you that carry lots of weight, I highly recommend getting rid of the turnbuckles and replace the cast beam over the front springs with an “I” beam as in the rear. It is not a
hard job and is covered very well in Section 09 of the Ultra Manual.
If you replace the turnbuckles, you should be sure the attach points have slots and cam washers so
there is an adjustment. If, due to errors in dimensions in the rear, you run out of adjustment, using
cam washers you can add shims between the bearing housing and where it fastens to the “A”
frame with four bolts to get additional adjustment.
Another point to watch (if you run over 4,600 pounds) is where the lower ball joint fastens to the
lower front “A” frame. I used SAE “fine threaded” bolts, Hutchison used “US Standard Cap
Screws” threaded into the aluminum casting. The Ultra manual covers this point and modification
very well.
The modification of adding a tube to connect the trunnion points at the base of the rear “A” frames
is covered in the attached drawing which should be inserted in the Ultra Manual at Section 09
Page 9-47. The strengthening tube can be welded in place without having to remove the “A”
frame. This modification was introduced at the factory in mid-1966.
(See drawing on next page.)
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View L/H rear wheel
well area
FW
D
Modification per Dave Peterson
10/86
Weld in place. This tube
should be added. It can be
added without removing the
“A” frame. (Note: was on
Ultras delivered from
Hutchinson starting in
mid 1966.)
SPECIAL SAFETY NOTE: When overhauling or rebuilding the rear suspension, it is VERY
DESIRABLE to have ALL ferrous parts MAGNA-FLUXed and the non- ferrous parts ZYGLOed.
ZYGLO is a black light system to check for cracks and sub-surface defects which may detect a
fault before a break occurs. The same applies to front suspension and steering parts. All aircraft
landing gear, even nuts and bolts are checked this way at every overhaul.
Look in the Yellow pages under Magnetic Inspection Service for a local shop. The same shop will
handle the ZYGLO process.
Many potential failures have been avoided by this preventive service. Even a stretched and weakened bolt can be detected. There is also a portable dye system that can be used for the same purpose to check for surface cracks while a part is still installed.
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Steering Bellcrank Inspection
Tech Tip No. 87-24, 1987
Several members recently have had problems with the cast aluminum left side triangle-shaped
bellcrank. One member actually broke one bearing end off when he ran a wheel up against a
block. Another found a bearing outer retaining wall section of the bellcrank pulling loose.
These are just two cases, I’m sure you probably know of more. Anyway, this is a stressed critical
part of the steering system, so I believe it should be inspected for cracks, wear and other damage.
Refer to the Ultra Manual as noted above.
The main thing we want to do is inspect the bellcrank for cracks without having to remove it.
Some may want to remove it, do the inspection, modification and possibly install the new style
pivot bolts.
The picture of the bellcrank in Section 10 on page 10-26 (of the Ultra Van Manual) shows the
areas where most cracks are found.
Jack up the coach, place on safety stands, remove the left front wheel. Clean all around the suspected areas with solvent, blow or wipe dry.
Using a “Zyglo Inspection Kit” or dye penetrant, follow the kit instructions to determine if your
bellcrank has cracks. (Firms specializing in Non-Destructive Test Equipment often sell these kits).
In lieu of buying a kit, view the suspected area with a 10 power magnifying glass and bright flashlight. If no cracks are found, clean remainder of bellcrank, inspect for cracks, corrosion, plugged
holes, loose bearings and missing grease fittings. Wipe or blow dry all areas. Using a white paint,
spray all cleaned areas. Hopefully, this will let you see a crack should one appear later.
Grease all bearings in the bellcrank, reinstall the wheel, and remove jack or stands. Reinspect
bellcrank in suspected areas each time you grease the steering system.
If you preferred to do the removal and modifications as noted in the manual, reinspect every 5,000
miles for looseness, wear at the tie rod ends, corrosion or other damage.
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476
Ball Joint Program
Tech Tip No. 88-11, 1988
In the last year, there have been at least two lower ball joint failures of which I am aware in Ultra
Vans. One, a failure in the threaded area of the lower “A” arm and the other, a ball pulled out of
the socket.
This “problem” was discussed at the 1987 U.V. National Rally. I had hoped to be further along
with the program, but cost / legality / financial considerations have slowed things down.
The GM part number of an exact duplicate for the joints in #556/525 and likely all the Hutchison
coaches is STUD KIT GR.6.174 P/N 9762018. Several other manufacturers list a joint as interchangeable, but they don’t know the Ultra application.
The problem of fitting the joint to the lower “A” frame is a lack of depth in the “A” frame for the
joint to recess down into. Some joints with the right bolt pattern will not fit without modifying the
“A” frame, (absolutely no recommendations on that project from this suggester). The joint would
likely fit the upper “A” frame as there is a steel plate with a hole large enough to clear the non-GM
joint. Read the Ultra manual, get the best advice you can (preferably from someone who has
done it) and then go to work.
BALL JOINT FAILURES RESULT IN A DISCONNECTED FRONT WHEEL, PROBABLE LOSS OF BOTH STEERING AND BRAKES. IN A PARKING LOT, NO BIG
DEAL......ON THE HIGHWAY....VERY BIG DEAL.
This is not only an Ultra problem. It applies to any vehicle using a ball joint suspension. It is
becoming more noticeable due to mileage and vehicle age. The obvious question is “How long,
how many miles?” No absolute answer can be given, but replacement at 75,000 miles or 8 year
intervals would seem a reasonable cost/safety compromise.
For owners not having access to GM parts at reasonable prices contact Pat Fitzgerald (813-4746468) who has a good contact at less than retail prices. Pat has agreed to get these parts for you,
contact him directly if interested.
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477
Using Glycol Anti-Freeze
Tech Tip No. 89-01, 1989
In Wes Caughlins column “Coach/Chassis” in January 1989 Motorhome, he says glycol antifreeze will ignite at 266°F. This would apply after a leak has “spilled” coolant onto the hot engine
and the water component has evaporated. Needless to say, many parts of the liquid cooled engine
(V8) operate at temperatures above 266°F.
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478
Fuel Pump
Tech Tip No. 89-03, 1989
In the February 1989 issue of the CORSA Communique magazine, there is a tech/topic on fuel
pumps. The writer describes how a leaking fuel pump diaphragm can leak fuel into the crankcase.
He then describes two versions of the Corvair fuel pump. One vents leaking fuel into the engine
compartment. He calls this “fail safe”. REALLY?
So you’re offered two choices: a “Ruined” engine or a burned up coach...some choice! Maybe
that’s why some of us run on only an electric pump. To make it clear, the use of an electric pump
in line with the mechanical pump only increases the odds for one failure or the other.
Removal of the mechanical pump completely seems to be the safest option.
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479
The ABCs of CPR
Tech Tip No. 89-05, 1989
On separate pages, (WHICH ARE NOT INCLUDED IN THIS VERSION – A LATER VERSION
WILL INCLUDE THE INSTRUCTIONS), is a short (very short) refresher on the ABCs of CPR.
Thanks to Cruising World Magazine. I have bonded mine between clear plastic and its ALWAYS
on board. Review often. I sincerely hope no one ever needs it.
CPR = Cardio Pulmonary Resuscitation
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480
Smoke/Fire Alarms
Tech Tip No. 89-08, 1989
Statistics tell us that most fatalities from fire are as a result of inhaling smoke. A relative died that
way a few years ago who lived in a NEW absolutely fire-proof apartment.
Every home/motorhome should have at least one strategically placed SMOKE ALARM. A smoldering fire at night, perhaps from a defective switch or a wiring short, could kill, without even the
courtesy of waking you up first.
One can buy alarms (now on sale) for under $10 or so. Advice from experts: Don’t go to sleep
another night without a smoke alarm in your bedroom. We echo...don’t make another trip in your
Ultra without one. They are the cheapest life insurance you can buy!
#603 has had such a device for several years.
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Accelerator Linkage
Tech Tip No. 89-10, 1989
Recently, when starting up at home, (this is known as having trouble in the perfect location) all I
could get the engine to do was idle. It idled very nicely, but even the mighty Corvair has a little
trouble keeping up to traffic at idle speed.
Problem: The “C” clip that holds the accelerator rod onto the PowerGlide TV lever was missing.
Ah! would that all problems be so nicely timed and so cheap to fix.
I’ve had a gas pedal to engine connection once before. It was not so well planned and resulted in a
very lively time.
Moral: Loss of power can be a major problem if not well timed. Please, check your gas “feed”
system from pedal to carburetor......now!!!
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Ultra Van 115 Volt Wiring
Tech Tip No. 89-16, 1989
Ever gotten into your coach in a campground and felt a slight electric tingle when touching the
aluminum side?
The reason for this tip will become apparent when you learn the 115 volt wiring in our coaches
does not meet UL standards. You can with a little checking be sure it is safe. To begin, take a little
time to read the Ultra Manual Section 15, pages 94-98.
In applying for insurance on 547, our agent asked for the UL/CSA sticker number to confirm the
level of wiring safety. The Canadian Standards Association (CSA) is like the US Underwriter’s
Laboratory.
Since there was no sticker, the agent warned me that in the event of a fire and we were hooked to
a Shore Line (115 volt power) the fire insurance would be void, if it was determined to have
started from an electrical source. This led to my own inspection and testing with a ground fault
type tester and then I completely rewired the coach.
A very simple tester is available in many trailer supply places for under $7.00. It has three indicator lamps to signal six conditions, three of which are bad and two of which can KILL YOU.
Our device (called SNAPIT CORRECT) has three prongs, a ground and two parallel blades which
plugs into any standard “U” ground outlet. The pattern of the lights is as follows:
Condition
RED
GREEN
GREEN
SAFE?
1) Everything OK
off
on
on
yes
2) Open neutral wire
off
off
on
maybe
3) Open ground
off
on
off
maybe
4) Open hot wire
off
off
off
Maybe; no power
5) Hot or reverse ground
on
off
on
NO – CAN KILL
6) Hot or reverse neutral
on
on
off
NO – CAN KILL
It’s not uncommon to plug in at a campground and find a 2, 3, 5 or 6 condition. Our SNAPIT is
usually plugged in the outlet beside the door so when we enter, the power condition is apparent.
Its also handy to check the outlets in your home, its amazing how often the black and white wires
are reversed.
A correctly wired “U” ground receptacle has a white wire under the silver colored screw, the
black wire to a brass screw and the ground (bare) wire to the green colored screw. This assumes
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483
all wires are correctly connected at the fuse or breaker box. The “U” should be at the bottom so if
the cord drops out, the ground pin disconnects last. Look around your home, if professionally
done the “U” is usually at the bottom, but its not a guarantee, so check it.
OK you say, but what’s wrong with Ultra wiring. First the three wires (green, white and black) are
twisted together with NO protective cover. Rubbing on a sharp aluminum edge can easily cut
through. Where the wires enter a box, there is no cable clamp to prevent vibration. Finally, many
black and white wires were reversed.
You owe it to your family, your guests and yourself to beware!!!
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484
Security – Night Time
Tech Tip No. 89-28, 1989
Many motorhome owners sometimes park overnight near a 24 hour restaurant, on hospital
grounds, at roadside rests, supermarket parking lots and so on when they are on their way to some
destination.
For added safety, some RV experts advise a police-type siren or “woofer” be roof-mounted, with a
switch to activate it by your bed. If there are homes near-by, this affords good protection. Just ask
our good members Al & Martha Hoffman, A549. from Wolf Point, Montana about a harrowing
experience they had while parked overnight in front of a friends home some years ago.
At night, in case of ruffians or vandals, the loud, piercing siren would alert nearby homeowners,
security officers, or business personnel to call the local police for assistance.
The shrieking alarm alone, will deter most with destructive intent. If you are being disturbed, you
have a right to “crow” loudly.
Almost anyone can quickly install such a pulsing sound horn on a motorhome roof with a 12-volt
lead run up from the clothes closet. If the device is well grounded, a single hot lead through a hole
drilled in the roof will activate it. Seal the hole with mastic.
Think about this little safety idea if you occasionally park overnight in a semi-risky area.
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485
Ball Joint/Knuckle Inspection
Tech Tip No. 90-11, 1990
The wheel alignment shop told me that I had a loose ball joint on the lower right hand front “A”
frame. It was a surprise, as I had just done an inspection on the joints myself, but what I had failed
to look for was a loose ball joint stem where it tightens in the taper.
Sure enough, after jacking the wheel assembly up by the lower “A” arm, I could turn the stem
with a pair of Channelocks. The shop would not just tighten the stem nut, because according to
them, that would cause the stem to soon break at the threaded area just under the nut.
Their reason was the tapered hole in the knuckle would be worn at the bottom and tightening
would cause additional wear on the tapered stem of the joint. This would cause the stem to contact
only the top of the knuckle hole. The extreme action of the wheel would move the stem fore and
aft, eventually crystallizing the area, causing a fatigue failure.
After disassembly of the wheel, lower “A” arm and joint, the knuckle was found to be slightly
worn in the lower area, by evidence of a slight burr around the bottom of the hole. The joint was
worn excessively at the lower area of the taper. It had rotated enough to have polished the surface
of the tapered section. It appeared the joint sustained most of the wear, because when a new joint
was inserted in the knuckle with a smear of thinned paint on it, the contact surface was about 8590%.
By exerting a little pressure on the taper, the joint would hang in the hole by its own weight and it
was difficult to turn by hand. After deburring the hole, installing the new joint and reassembling
everything, the Ultra was returned to the shop for the alignment job.
This type of problem is mentioned in the Ultra Manual and it and is sometimes the result of the
aluminum casting breaking, heavy impact of the wheel assembly, by collision or by other causes.
The knuckle assembly is an item that will be very difficult to locate in the future and should be
stored as a spare. It is from a 1964-66 Chevy II, P/N 3890126, Group 6.020 and is called a
“knuckle”. GM no longer supplies it. An identical “knuckle” is P/N 3847927, (don’t know what it
fits), except it has a 1/2”-16 thread hole with a 3/4” boss recess for the brake pivot pin, compared to
a 5/8”-18 threaded hole in P/N 3890126.
The ball joints (P/N 3865827 old number) were from 1961-65 Chevrolet vans. All four joints on
the Ultra, except for the early models that used Corvair front knuckle assemblies, are all upper
ball joints. The current P/N is 9762018, called a “Stud Kit” is available from Chev dealers at
$53.46 each.
Inspection Procedure: Inspect the upper and lower ball joints for looseness and wear as follows....
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486
1. Place jack under lower “A” arm near hole for lube fitting of lower ball joint and lift Ultra up
until the tire is about 1/2” clear (for safety’s sake, place blocks in front and behind rear wheel).
2. Using a pry bar and a 2 x 4 wood block, place the pry bar under center of tire. Using the block
as a lever point, force tire upward to detect looseness (you may have to work the bar in a quick
up and down motion to detect looseness). Now have a helper work the bar while you observe
ball joint stems for movement. Place hand on stems for detection also. Observe attach points of
ball joints to “A” arm for looseness and repair as required.
NOTE: If you know your Ultra has ever had a broken upper spring support casting or has been
damaged by collision or severe impact, it is recommended at the very least, you replace the lower
ball joint, and do a careful inspection of other suspension parts for damage.
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487
Safety Switch for Electric Fuel Pumps
Tech Tip No. 90-12, 1990
An electric fuel pump is a good addition to your fuel system. It has greater reliability, longer life,
easy installation, freedom from hot weather vapor lock and quicker engine starting, but it can also
be a hazard, if not installed properly.
To prevent the fuel pump from running with the engine stopped and there is still electric power to
the pump, it is highly recommended that an “oil” pressure safety switch be installed, as shown in
the wiring diagrams below, using a NAPA (Echlin) switch, P/N OP-6610. This switch is used on
the Chevrolet Vega, which has an electric fuel pump mounted in the gas tank. This installation
prevents leaving the pump on accidentally, which could flood the engine and create a fire hazard.
NOTE: It is strongly recommended that a safety switch be installed to prevent fuel leakage in the
event of a collision or upset.
A. Connect the power lead from the fuel pump to common (P) terminal of switch.
B. Connect normally open (I) terminal of switch to ignition switch, accessory take-off of fuse
block, or some other 12 volt power source controlled by the ignition switch.
C. Connect normally closed (S) terminal of switch to starting system as shown in the following
typical illustrations.
oil pressure safety switch (see note B above)
existing lead
S
existing lead
P
red wire
battery
black wire
S
battery
black wire
vehicle frame
I
black wire
existing lead
I
S
P
red wire
battery
vehicle frame
I
P
red wire
vehicle frame
By wiring the electronic fuel pump as shown above, the fuel pump will only operate when cranking for starting or when the engine is operating and maintaining oil pressure. If the engine stalls
with the ignition ON, the pump will stop operating.
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488
Smoke Sensor with Silencer
Tech Tip No. 90-16, 1990
For some time there has been a debate on how to best handle the false alarm problem if the smoke
alarm sounds while cooking on the Ultra stove. Some have a switch (a BIG NO NO), others just
move it temporarily to the bed, etc. Pete Schuler (#397) showed me their discontinued Sears
smoke detector which came with a temporary silencer button. After a bit of searching, I found a
current detector made by Southwest Laboratories, Costa Mesa, CA 92626 that has the silencer as
one of its features.
The PROBE Model 105 was especially designed to quiet false alarms caused by cooking vapors.
It has a little red tab out the side. Pushing the tab puts the alarm in silent mode for 15 minutes.
While in this mode, it chirps every 15 seconds to show it’s been silenced.
The PROBE 105 also monitors battery voltage and chirps once a minute for thirty days when the
battery needs replacing. Another unique feature is a no-battery flag to remind you there is no battery in the unit. When a battery is installed the flag is cammed down out of sight.
Now we have the best of both worlds, this alarm has a quick release wall bracket which mounts
the alarm with just a 15° twist. It can be easily removed to throw on the bed if desired or can be
safely silenced without being switched off.
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Consolidated Ultra Van Resource Number List
The following consolidated list are all the vital part numbers that appeared in either the Ultra Van
Manual or in Tech Tips published in the Ultra Van Motor Coach Club Newsletters from 1966 to
1990.
It is suggested this quick reference list be printed out and carried in the coach with Ryerson’s
Ultra Van Manual.
NOTE that a [*] following a part number indicates a critical part
Critical Parts Availability list, call or write: Roy Muranaka, 11119 Salt Lake Avenue, Northridge,
CA 91326, phone 818-366-9602. Neither the Ultra Van Motor Coach Club or Roy makes any
claim as to the quality or price of the part(s) listed; that will be between you and the seller.
Part Description
Remarks or
Aftermarket Supplier
Part Number
front & rear axle nuts
378137
magnetic oil plug
387185
3/ -20
4
thread, castle nut
V8 rear brake caliper, left
545268L
use Vette 1963-82/aftermarket
V8 rear brake caliper, right
54269R
use Vette 1963-82/aftermarket
alternator 1965-67, 47 amp
1100698
distributor, 1965-68 140 w/PG
1110369
no air pump
1110369
air pump
distributor, 1968 110 w/PG
1110370
air pump
1110371
air pump
1110453
distributor, 1969 110 w/PG
1110455
accelerator pedal, 1963 Buick
1175718
Vega distributor plate
1846456 [*]
Corvair rotor
1945369
Corvair points
1945376
Corvair starter nose
1949061 [*]
distributor primary wire
1954563
distributor vacuum advance arm boot
1963610
V8 rear brake pads set
2621609
aftermarket p/n D-8
490
Part Description
Remarks or
Part Number
Corvair spark plug wire set
2974555
shock absorber
3178181
Clark’s Magwire p/n C4636
Otto Parts p/n PW-164
tie rod ends
3737595 [*]
left window tinted
3751627 [*]
PPG p/n W 576
Solex p/n FL 557
right window tinted
3751629 [*]
PPG p/n W575
Solex p/n FL 556
3759987
discontinued in 1973
3764408 [*]
see 3759987
3775262
Corvette 1963-82
spring, front coil replacement
spring, front coil, 1959-60 Chev
V8 camber strut bushing
blower belt idler pulley assembly
blower belt
3779957 [*]
3780981
3/ ”
8
x 553/4”
DAYCO p/n 398
NAPA p/n 424
10 x 1440 GATES p/n 7565
GATES p/n 8561
GATES green stripe p/n 8331XS
converter support shaft
3780998 [*]
3:89 ring & pinion gear set
3781706 [*]
Corvair front motor mount
3788221
cam washer (suspension)
3790331
Corvair & V8
3794002 [*]
Corvair & V8
Chicago Rawhide p/n 16757
National p/n 9178S
Victor p/n 46434
Clark’s p/n C1403
3794006
Corvette 1963-82
National p/n 5113
Victor p/n 46435
rear wheel bearing seal, inner
V8 rear wheel bearing seal, outer
converter support shaft
fuel pump push rod
3794254 [*]
3797593
37/8” long
491
Part Number
Remarks or
V8 camber control rod bracket
3817827
Corvette 1963-82
V8 rear spindle spacer
3820224
Corvette 1963-82
rear spindle shim
3820225
0.145” thick
rear spindle shim
3820226
0.139” thick
rear spindle shim
3820227
0.133” thick
rear spindle shim
3820228
0.127” thick
rear spindle shim
3820229
0.121” thick
rear spindle shim
3820230
0.115” thick
rear spindle shim
3820231
0.109” thick
rear spindle shim
3820232
0.103” thick
rear spindle shim
3820233
0.097” thick
V8 camber cam assembly
3820253
Corvette 1963-82
V8 rear bearing support, left
3820643
Corvette 1963-82
V8 read bearing support, right
3820644
Corvette 1963-82
V8 inner drive yoke
382031
Corvette 1963-82
valve push rod
3839661
Part Description
camshaft 1964-69 95 HP & 1969 140 HP
3839889 [*]
camshaft 1964-69 110 HP & 1965-68 140 HP
3839891 [*]
front brake shoes, Corvair & V8
3845292
carburetor “J” bolt
3845682
from Chevy II
95 or 110 HP cylinder kit
3847843 [*]
spindle alternative to 3890126
3847927 [*]
see Tech Tip 90-11
harmonic balancer assembly
3851262 [*]
letter “C” on face
Clark’s p/n C1136
rear spindle
3857809
blower assembly
3856615 [*]
rear spindle hub support housing
3857811
cam assembly (suspension)
3858038
rear spindle spacer
3858095
1.675” long
492
Part Description
Remarks or
Part Number
rear wheel bearing seal, outer
3858096 [*]
special spindle lock nut
3858108 [*]
grease cap/speedometer drive
3858811 [*]
3859228 [*]
National p/n 9195S
Victor p/n 46460
Clark’s p/n C1404
pinion gear shaft, automatic
GM crankshaft gear gasket
3859585
3859829 [*]
V8 torque arm housing bolts
Clark’s p/n C786A
3864037
Corvette 1963-82
ball joints (stud unit)
3865827 [*]
(old) see p/n 9762018
1965-69 110 HP non-smog cylinder kit
3869276 [*]
rear spindle V8, Corvette
3872476
camshaft 1965-66 180 HP
3872304
front spindle nut fork retainer
considered universal
3872951 [*]
crankshaft
3875827
front wheel inner seal
3876191
National p/n 8705S
front motor mount support
3876969
Ultra modified
V8 torque control arm bushing
3880422
shock absorber bottoming bumper
3880522 [*]
Corvair motor mount, rear
3880558
Clark’s p/n C8059
140 HP crankshaft gear
3885399
NAPA p/n 8-2529
Sealed Power p/n 221-2529
Clark’s p/n C786XN
rear flange yoke
3887353
air injector belt
3888453
V8 half shaft universal joints
3889696
1966-69 110 HP, smog cylinder kit
Corvette 1963-82
Spicer p/n 5-178X
3889799 [*]
493
Part Description
spindle assembly, Chevy II
Remarks or
Part Number
3890126
spring seat assembly
3892794 [*]
rear flexible brake hose
3898208
oil pan drain plug gasket
3921989
Fel-Pro p/n OS12625R
universal joint kit
3955575
Spicer p/n 5-153X
PowerGlide transmission 1964-69
3958608 [*]
“A” frame spacer washer
3983392
1/ ”
4
thick
3983393
1/ ”
8
thick
3983394
1/ ”
32
thick
3983395
1/ ”
64
thick
V8 rear brake rotor disc
3996663
master cylinder, single piston
5459390
wheel cylinder, front left
5462963
Chevy II, 11/16” bore
wheel cylinder, front right
5462964
wheel cylinder, rear right
5465642
wheel cylinder, rear left
5465643
V8 caliper seal kit, Corvette
5467288
EIS p/n C992, 13/8” caliper
master cylinder, dual piston
5468453
United p/n 36233
fuel pump “O” ring
5622170
bushing assembly, Corvair “A” arm
6255708 [*]
ring, oil control
6255759 [*]
Corvette 1963-82
GM
Harris Silent Blk p/n F6 62511 21
McQuay Norris p/n FB190
differential top cover gasket
6255758
Clark’s p/n C6020
transmission governor seal
6246328
or “O” ring AN6227-18
PowerGlide rear pump drive pins
6256358 [*]
fuel pump push rod return spring
6256365
electric fuel pump
6414671
AC EP-12 part
494
Part Description
electric fuel pump safety switch
Remarks or
Part Number
OP-6610
Corvair mechanical fuel pump
6415433 [*]
mechanical fuel pump repair kit
6415601 [*]
110 HP single snorkel air cleaner
6419705
140 HP double snorkel air cleaner
6421253
NAPA (Echlin) part
see Tech Tip 90-12
carburetor, 1965-67, model HV
7016523 [*]
with power enrichment
carburetor, 1965, 95 HP, PowerGlide
7025023 [*]
carburetor, 1965, 110 HP, PowerGlide
7025024 [*]
carburetor, 1966-67, 110 HP, PowerGlide
7026024 [*]
carburetor, 1968-69, model H
7031441 [*]
V8 carburetor, Rochester 2GV
7029103
7029110
7040105
7040405
carburetor, 1967, 95 & 110 HP, PowerGlide
7036014 [*]
carburetor, 1966, 95 & 110 HP, PowerGlide
7036024 [*]
front wheel outer bearing assembly
7450627
New Departure p/n S5
bearing, front inner, rear outer
7450630
V8 rear axle outer, Corvette
7450630
bearing, rear inner, Corvair & V8
7451202
9762018 [*]
(new number)
TRW p/n 10207
MOOG p/n K6034
Perfect Circle p/n 206-1071
ball joints (stud unit)
cylinder head, 1964, 95 HP
3839886
3839887
3856626
3886255
495
Part Description
Part Number
3819876
3856631
3856632
3856743
3886256
3886257
3819904
3856636
3856638
3886258
3886259
cylinder head, 1965-67, 95 HP, non-smog
3878561
3856743
3875861
3875862
3875866
3883858
3885859
3885863
3856727
3856728
3878565
3878570
3883861
cylinder heads, 1965-66, 180 HP
3856756
3856762
3878564
3878568
3883860
cylinder heads, 1966-69, 110 HP, smog
3880707
3880708
3883862
cylinder heads, 1968-69, 95 HP
3878569
cylinder heads, 1968-69, 140 HP, smog
3856729
3885165
Remarks or
Spherco rod end assemblies
TR-7
no grease fitting
Spherco rod end assemblies
TR-7N
with grease fitting
496
Part Number
Remarks or
Spherco rod end assemblies, high strength
AR-7
no grease fitting
Spherco rod end assemblies, high strength
AR-7N
with grease fitting
Part Description
spark plugs
AC-44FF
AC-46FF
spark plugs
NKG B5HS
broader heat range than 44FF
spark plugs
NKG BN5HS
hotter than B5HS
spark plugs
BOSCH
WR7BN
140 HP distributor vacuum advance
#217 or #218 stamped on arm
retainer, converter assembly to flex plate, bolt,
special
3/ -24
8
nut and cage
front shocks, NAPA Munroe Regal Ride
Deluxe Heavy Duty
p/n #3027 CWE289B
p/n #3027 CWE289D
front shocks, NAPA Munroe Regal Ride
Deluxe Heavy Duty
p/n #9027
front shocks, NAPA Munroe Heavy Duty
p/n #6013
front shocks, NAPA Montgomery Ward
p/n 61-18400
rear shocks, NAPA Deluxe Heavy Duty
p/n #2006XN5
rear shocks, K-Mart Heavy Duty
rear shocks, Midas “Lifeguard” Heavy Duty
carburetor rebuild kit, one for each carb
p/n 2183-C0112982R1
p/n #MB786
Echlin Kit p/n 2-5259
alternator rebuild kit, external regulator, pulley bearing
NAPA p/n #203-F
Whitney p/n #73-7194W
alternator rebuild kit, external regulator, small
end bearing
NAPA p/n #MN471-S
Whitney p/n #???
alternator rebuild kit, external regulator,
brushes & springs
alternator rebuild kit, external regulator, diode
kit
Peters & Russel Type 4 water pump
Peters & Russel water pump pressure switch
NAPA p/n #R-434
Whitney p/n #???
Whitney p/n #73-7593R
p/n 6970-J
Jabsco p/n 37121-0000
497
Part Description
Remarks or
Part Number
Corvair oil filters
AC p/n PF-4
Motorcraft p/n FL-8
Hastings p/n P-215
Lee p/n LF-14
Fram p/n PH-4
WIX p/n DC-38-C, 51038
Walker p/n WD-140
Corvair air filter paper element
6419892
AC p/n A178W
Sears p/n 45277
Lee p/n AFL 178
Purolator p/n APF 67
Fram p/n CA-192
Motorcraft p/n FA 31R
Bargman Shore Line electric connectors,
complete male/female
p/n 40-66-666
male base unit with cover
p/n 40-60-001
female polarized plug
p/n 40-60-002
original paint, Dupont Corinthian White
p/n 93-94126
original paint, Sherwin WIlliams
p/n 1932
original paint, GM Duplicolor
p/n 122
gold striping, 3M Scotch brand, 1”
p/n #850
range, Magic Chef propane gas
refrigerator, Dometic model M28 Series with
suffix A,B, C, or D
model 165-2F
recommended Service Bulletins
3299 and 3472
furnace, optional forced air unit,
Coleman model 8623-779
water heater, Bowen model G6A Series
toilet, SANIWARE Model #1000, repair kit
p/n 98537 or 98601
toilet, SANIWARE Model #1000, water control valve assembly
p/n 90200
toilet, SANIWARE Model #1000, “U” band
kit
p/n 98504
498
Part Description
Remarks or
Part Number
toilet, SANIWARE Model #1000, bowl seal
kit
V8 “V” drive, Walters RV-20 “V”
p/n 98550
OBSOLETE – parts are still
available; replacement if
required is p/n RV-24 ($1,300+);
Walters Machine Co.
84 Cambridge Ave.
Jersey City, NJ 07307
phone 201-656-5654
Table Of Contents
499
Ultra Van Safety Inspection Checklist
Owner
Van number
Corvair 110 HP
Mileage
Corvair 140 HP
Items Checked
Date
Chev V8
OK
Needs
Urgent
Atten.
Toronado
Remarks
1. BODY SECTION
stress points, ripples, condition of sheet metal
drainage ducts, caulking
windshield wipers, wiper blades
windshield glass, glass/plastic windows
bumpers – foam, metal
condition of access doors
heater vent (outside)
door hinges, handles, locks, weather-strip
condition of exterior finish, paint
operation of roof vents
2. ENGINE SECTION
cleanliness, oil & fuel leaks
air filter
vacuum advance unit, hose connections
oil filter
oil pressure transmitter
cylinder head temperature transmitter
blower belt – condition & tension
blower belt guides – clearances
fuel pump
fuel filter
spark plugs & wires, plug shroud seals
condition of 12 Volt wiring
500
Items Checked
OK
Needs
Urgent
Atten.
Remarks
carburetors, synchronize, check for leaks, tighten fuel lines
distributor & ignition coil
oil cooler, blow dirt out, check cover plate
engine mounting bolts, front & rear
exhaust system, mufflers
oil leaks, check “O” rings on pushrod covers
smog control system & crankcase ventilation, clean out
0.089” orifice
engine cooling shroud, thermostat & damper
3. SUSPENSION SYSTEM
upper “A” frames, solid rod & turnbuckle types
lock nuts on upper “A” frame turnbuckles
lower aluminum “A” frames
front upper & lower ball joints, tighten nuts
front “I” beam, cast aluminum, visually check
shock absorbers, front & rear, snubber attach points
coil springs, attach points, straightness
rear trailing arms, lock nuts on turnbuckles (not on all
vans)
“A” frames & trailing arms pivot points, check bolts
rear tie rods, ball joints, engine mounts, V8 only
front torsion bar
4. TANK SYSTEM & PUMPS
gasoline, filler vents, reserve system
fresh water
holding tank
intermediate tank (for toilet & sink & shower)
fiberglass tanks (50 gal) on later models
sliding shut-off valve & overboard pump (on 50 gal tank)
gauges, water, gasoline, propane
501
Items Checked
OK
Needs
Urgent
Atten.
Remarks
water pump pressure adjustment
toilet flush pump
toilet grinder pump
shower drain pump
overboard pump
check all hose connections & fittings to tanks and pumps
for corrosion &looseness
5. ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
alternator/generator
voltage regulator
batteries, terminals, water level, specific gravity
battery ground connection
battery switches, horns & horn relay
battery cables
battery charger
circuit breakers & fuses
starter motor & solenoid
vent fan motors – for stove & toilet
check 110 Volt AC system for grounds
6. LIGHT SYSTEM
headlights, upper/lower beam, beam switch, beam adjustment
turn signal flashers & switch
stop lights
parking lights
tail lights
back-up lights
4-way emergency flashers
light switch
instrument panel lights
502
Items Checked
OK
Needs
Urgent
Atten.
Remarks
interior lights & switches
110 Volt outlets & circuit breakers
7. PROPANE GAS SYSTEM
supply tank, firmly fastened, tank area sealed & vented
check line joints for leaks
clean out propane tank & add a half-cup alcohol
refrigerator, clean burner, blow out flue
hot water system, blow out flue, adjust pilot & burner
space heater, be sure vent flue is clear
stove & oven, adjust top burners, check oven pilot
8. BRAKE SYSTEM
master cylinder, fluid level, leaks
wheel brake cylinders, check for leaks
brake lines, leaks, rubbing
brake pedal travel
emergency brake
stop light switch, check connections
brake linings, remove drums, blow out dust, take up
9. STEERING SYSTEM & DRIVE TRAIN
steering gear box, adjustment, looseness, lube
tie rod bell cranks, check pivots for play
tie rod & ball joints, check bolts, lube
wheel alignment, front & rear, check manual
universal joints (Corvair & V8)
drive shaft splines, lube
V drive housing (V8 only)
condition of wheels, tires, spare tire
wheel lug bolts
transmission, condition of oil, oil level, leaks
503
Items Checked
OK
Needs
Urgent
Atten.
Remarks
transmission shift cable attachment
transmission modulator valve
differential oil level
positraction, refill with GM positraction axle gear lube
only, #GR 8.800
10. MISCELLANEOUS
safety belts
jacks, jack stand, wood blocks
tire repair kit
wheel lug wrench
chocks & levelling blocks
tow line
spare blower belt
spare fuses, lamps
flares, flashlight
remember where jacking points are
carry an extra large fire extinguisher
check van for unneeded items, extra weight
burglar alarm
auxiliary power plant
air conditioning
check condition of 4” flex heater hose from engine
spare valve cores
tire gauge
minimum assortment of necessary tools
one good bottle of Napoleon brandy for snake bites
This inspection carries no liability on the part of the inspector and the Ultra Van Motor Coach
Club, and it is being performed with this understanding – to assist you in maintaining your vehicle
and to keep it in good running order.
Inspected by
Signed by Owner
504
Where to Submit Tech Tips
Please submit tech tips to Walt Davison #366 (Ultra Van Club Technical Coordinator for 1998) at:
1208 Asturia Avenue
Coral Gables, FL 33134
phone 305-444-1937
For general Ultra Van Club information (such as to whom to submit tech tips after 1998), please
contact Norm Helmkay at <[email protected]>.
Table Of Contents
Where to Submit Tech Tips
505

Ultra Van Tech Tips Electronic Reference 1966-1990

Transcription

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