Cockatiel - Animates

fly every day will keep your bird happier, healthier
and fit.
Housing
It is best to provide the largest habitat that you can
The signs of a healthy cockatiel are:
Cockatiels are known for their mimicking skills and can
afford. A minimum size for one cockatiel is 60cmW x
Active, alert and sociable
be taught simple phrases.
45cmD x 60cmH. The bars on the cage should be no
Dry nostrils and bright eyes
wider than 1.25cm apart.
Beak, legs and feet should look normal
you will be rewarded. You will get to know your bird’s
Perches need to be a variety of textures, widths and
Eats and drinks regularly
signals, such as head bending when it wants a pet.
lengths. This variety will exercise your bird’s feet and
aid in the prevention of arthritis. It also more closely
Has smooth, well groomed feathers.
Your bird will love your company.
Take your time and interact with your bird daily and
simulates life in the outdoors.
Moulting
Your cockatiel will have its first moult between six to
A metal grate over the bottom of the cage will help to
keep the bird off its droppings.
12 months of age and after that a couple of times a
year. This is an unhappy time for your bird and it will
require extra care during this period.
Cage placement
Keep your bird in the part of the house that is lived
The signs of an unhealthy cockatiel are:
Sitting on the floor of the cage or low on the perch
Wheezing or coughing
Eye or nasal discharge
Fluffed, plucked or dirty feathers
This process takes between four to eight weeks and
in and include your bird in your family. Keep it out of
Diarrhoea or discoloured stools
during this time your bird will be more susceptible
drafts and off the floor.
Red or swollen eyes
Cover your bird’s cage at night to prevent “night
Favouring one foot
fright”. Cockatiels need about 12 hours of rest a night.
Red eyes, tearing or closed and puffy eyes
to changes of temperature so make sure that its
environmental temperature is stable. Your bird will
need more protein during this time and this can
be delivered by a soft egg-based supplement or
conditioning food.
A vitamin supplement during this phase is also
recommended. Growing new feathers takes a lot out
of a cockatiel.
Grooming and health
Cockatiels love to bathe and a cold-to-tepid bath of
about 2cm depth can be provided two to three times
per week. Remove this after about an hour. Always
do this in the mornings allowing your bird to dry off
during the day. Increase this to daily during your bird’s
moult. Alternatively you can use a water mister or
grooming spray.
Nails should be trimmed by a qualified person.
You should worm your indoor bird every six months or
every three months for your outdoor aviary birds.
Appetite loss.
Cage care
Follow these simple rules to ensure the best possible
care for your cockatiel:
Don’t place food or water containers
underneath the perches – this will prevent
If you notice any of these signs please contact
your veterinarian immediately.
Recommended supplies
Good sized cage
Millet spray
Cage cover
Variety of toys
Avoid cooking near your bird with non-stick
cookware as these can release harmful fumes
Seed or pelleted food
Cage liners
Variety of perches
Bird bath
Clean and disinfect the cage and perches regularly
Treats
Vitamin supplement
Replace food and water daily
Grit
Chew toys
Remove uneaten vegetables after 24 hours
Food and water
dishes
Books about care
Replace perches, dishes and toys once worn
or damaged
Grooming spray
possible contamination
Cuttlefish/mineral
block.
Rotate toys regularly to avoid boredom
Make sure there are no parts or toys in your bird’s
cage that are lead, lead-base painted, zinc or
galvanised metal.
www.animates.co.nz
Cockatiel
care guide
necessary if your bird is on a premium pellet diet as
these are already vitamin and mineral rich.
This Australian
native is a very
popular family pet.
They are easy going
and can be great
mimics. Like all pets
they require daily
attention.
Treats
Birds need a wide variety of treats to alleviate
boredom, help them to work for their food and
exercise their minds.
Treats should consist of no more than 10% of your
bird’s diet. These can include honey bells, honey sticks
and millet spray.
Behaviour, exercise and taming
There is no quick fix or fast track when it comes to
High quality bird seed or a pelleted diet should make
up about 70% of your cockatiel’s intake. The remainder
should consist of fresh vegetables and fruits (see the
safe food list). Cockatiels do tend to be fussy eaters
and can become set in their “food ways” later in life.
So when you introduce a variety of fruits, vegetables
Use this checklist to make sure that a
cockatiel is right for you and your family
taming your bird. It takes patience, consistency and
Feeding
The following is a collection of fruit, vegetables
and other food that you can feed your bird.
Fresh food should be thoroughly rinsed first.
Apples (no pips)
Apricots
and treats at a young age it makes feeding later in life
Banana
much easier.
Broccoli
Perseverance is key here. Offer fruit and vegetables
Brussel sprouts
every day and your bird will eventually learn to love
Cabbage
them. They are an essential part of your bird’s diet so it
Carrot tops
is important that you are patient. Fresh vegetables and
Cauliflower
I have the appropriate location and housing for
this pet
fruits not eaten within 24 hours should be discarded.
Celery
Limit the amount of sunflower seed in the diet as this
I will provide a safe environment for this pet
is extremely high in fat. If you wish to change your
Cooked egg
(occasionally)
I realise that owning this bird will be a long term
bird’s diet at any stage make sure that you do this over
commitment (up to 15 years)
I can provide daily supervised time outside of its
cage for my bird
I am aware that birds can be vocal and this is
acceptable for my family and my neighbours
An adult can provide primary care for this pet.
Average size: 30cm (including tail)
Life span: 12 to 15 years
the course of a few weeks. Sudden dietary changes can
cause digestive problems, so keep an eye on your birds
weight, stools and general well-being during this time.
Water needs to be chlorine free, always available and
Cooked pasta
(occasionally)
their food.
When you first get your bird home and settled in its
new cage, start slowly by talking gently to your bird,
sitting near it and generally including it in your life.
Don’t put your hand into your bird’s cage to try to
Corn
get it out; this will most probably result in a bite.
Dark green leafy
vegetables
Remember that the cage is your bird’s sanctuary
Oranges
Peaches
and it needs to feel completely safe there.
Tempt your bird with a treat held by you at the cage
bars. Once it is happy to accept this try opening the
Pears (no pips)
cage front door to tempt it out this way. You can even
Peas
put some sunflower seeds into the palm of your hand
Popped corn
and let it eat from this.
Silverbeet
Be careful once the bird is out of the cage that all
curtains are closed, mirrors are covered, doors are
DO NOT FEED lettuce, avocado, rhubarb,
chocolate, alcohol, fruit seeds or caffeine as
these can make your bird very ill. If in doubt
about a food, don’t feed it!
shut and other pets are away from the area. Getting
your bird’s wings clipped is a good idea during the
training phase. Ask our staff for details.
Always get your bird back into its cage before it gets
tired – sit your bird on your hand for this. The last
changed daily.
Like us, cockatiels appreciate quality and variety in
gentleness.
experience outside of its cage should always be a
Supplements
We recommend putting a vitamin and mineral
supplement (Ornithon), in your bird’s water, especially
during moulting or in times of stress. This is not
positive one.
Once accustomed to you and the environment, your
bird should be exercised daily by letting it out for a fly
and socialising with your family. Allowing your bird to