NATIONAL COCKATIEL SOCIETY JOURNAL

NATIONAL COCKATIEL SOCIETY JOURNAL
April/May/June 2014
From our Facebook Friends ….
The National Cockatiel Society
Journal
Dedicated to the Education of Cockatiel Enthusiasts Worldwide.
April/May/June 2014 Volume XXXI, No 2
Official publication of The National Cockatiel Society, Inc.
www.cockatiels.org
Issue Highlights..
Do you have a Disaster Plan
The Evolution of the Exhibition Cockatiel
Consider Showing your Pet Cockatiel
Handfeeding
The Chick who can’t Stand Up
Pg. 4
Pg. 9
Pg. 10
Pg. 14
Pg. 18
Society Information….
NCS Board of Directors
NCS Appointed Directors
State Coordinators
Affiliated Clubs
Judge’s Panel
Show Calendar
Pg. 2
Pg. 3
Pg. 6
Pg. 8
Pg. 12
Pg. 22
The National Cockatiel Society Journal is the official
quarterly magazine of the National Cockatiel Society, Inc.
The National Cockatiel Society, Inc. is a non-profit, 501c(3) corporation.
Copyright 2014
All rights reserved.
Reproduction of any material from this issue in whole
or in part is strictly prohibited.
National
National Cockatiel
Cockatiel Society,
Society, Inc
Inc.
July/Aug/Sept 2012
Page13
Page
President
Leslie Huegerich
611 Quest Ridge Dr.
Fuquay Varina, NC 27526
[email protected]
Secretary
Vickie Ferguson
411 Aviator Dr.
Fort Worth, TX 76179
North-Eastern Director
Ruth Doughty
79 Howard St.
Lewiston, ME 04240
[email protected]
1st VP/Judges Chair
Julia Allen
3592 Lake Unity Nursery Rd.
Fruitland Park, FL 34731
[email protected]
Treasurer
Deb Dollar
P.O. Box 12058
Brooksville, FL 34603
[email protected]
Central Director
Carla Crowe
1342 Hildreth Pool Rd.
Bowie, TX 76230
centraldirector
@cockatiels.org
2nd Vice President
Jim Heffernan
11177 Buno Rd.
Brighton, MI 49114
[email protected]
Membership/Bands
Chris Orowitz
1776 Walter Boone Rd.
Rineyville, KY 40162
[email protected]
Western Director
Jesse Avila
7910 Greenland Rd.
Franktown, CO 80116
3rd Vice President
Ellen O’Neil
1652 Pisgah State Rd.
Shermans Dale, PA 17090
[email protected]
Puerto Rico Director
Juan Carlos Cotto
[email protected]
South-Eastern Director
Karen Perdue
(770) 382-4225
[email protected]
Your
A D
Here
Page 2
Don’t miss the
Chance to grow your
Business by placing
An ad right here!
Contact:
Leslie Huegerich
[email protected]
April/May/June 2014
SHOW REPORTS
EDITOR
Chris Orowitz
1776 Walter Boone Rd.
Rineyville, KY 40162
[email protected]
AFA DELEGATE
Jim Heffernan
[email protected]
Leslie Huegerich
[email protected]
EDUCATION
OUTREACH CHAIR
Ruth Doughty
(207) 344-8640
[email protected]
Advertising
Open
GA RESIDENT
NCS AGENT
Karen Perdue
(770) 382-4225
[email protected]
TECHNICAL
CO-CHAIRS
Leslie Huegerich
[email protected]
Allen Fox
[email protected]
NCBS (National)
LIAISON
Leslie Huegerich
(see President)
NCS Sales Store
Open
AUCTION
CHAIRPERSON
Open
PARLIAMENTARIAN/BYLAWS
Jeff Robinson
[email protected]
The folks who make the NCS Journal happen...
Guest Journal Editor
Chris Orowitz
Assistant Editor
Leslie Huegerich
Content Manager
Julia Allen
3592 Lake Unity Nursery Rd.
Fruitland Park, FL 34731
[email protected]
Contributing Writers
Karl Huegerich
Pat Tucker
Linda Greeson Rice
Front Cover Photos: April Howes, Peggy Armstrong,
Josh Perkins, Ellen O’Neill
Back Cover Photo: Young Lutino Hen, Chris Orowitz
National Cockatiel Society, Inc
Page 3
Do you have a Disaster Plan for them
by Karl Huegerich
More than 60 percent of American households have at least one pet. After Katrina,
61 percent of pet owners told national pollsters they would refuse to evacuate
ahead of a disaster if they could not take their pets with them.
The Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA) recommends that if you
evacuate your home, take your animals with you. “Pets most likely cannot survive
on their own; and if by some remote chance they do, you may not be able to find
them when you return.” Most shelters will not be able to take in your pets due to
public health concerns.
Planning for an emergency before it happens is paramount to saving your life as
well as a young pet. Emergency workers are going to be focused on saving human
lives. We, as pet owners, MUST be focused on our pets well being.
First make a disaster supply kit and keep these items in an accessible place and
store them in sturdy containers that can be readily carried. Please see the list on
the next page for a sample check list.
Birds should be transported in a travel cage. In warm weather carry a misting bottle
to mist the birds’ periodically. Do not put water inside the carrier during transport.
Provide a few slices of fresh fruits and vegetables with high water content. Apples
and oranges work great due to their high water content. Have a photo for identification and note all leg band numbers of your birds. If the carrier does not have a
perch, line it with paper towels or newspaper and change them frequently. Keep
the carrier in a quiet area and don’t attempt to take your pet out during this stressful time. If you are caring for baby birds, make sure that you have all of the items
that you need to take care of their needs. You will need formula, syringes, container to mix the formula in, water and a way to heat up the water for the formula.
The little electric water kettles work great for heating up the water for feeding.
Make sure that you have a way to keep the baby birds warm.
In the event that you have to evacuate due to potential storms or hazards, have an
idea of where you and your pets can go. Not all hotels let you bring animals with
you and many shelters do not allow it either. Make sure that you call the different
hotels in your area and ask them if they allow animals and if they do not, ask them
if they allow them in an emergency situation. Your best bet is to look towards
friends that are outside of the affected area to help with the boarding of your
animals. Do you have an aunt who lives a few hours from you? Do you have a
friend who is another town? There are all kinds of possibilities. Call them now,
don’t wait!
Page 4
April/May/June 2014
Prepare a list of boarding facilities and veterinarians who can shelter animals in an
emergency. Include 24-hour phone numbers. You can also ask your local animal
shelter if it can provide emergency shelter if it can provide emergency shelter or foster care in an emergency. Animal shelters may be overburdened caring for the animals they already have as well as those displaced by a disaster. This should be your
last resort. You can also use AAA (Triple A) to help you locate motels and hotels
that favor animals. In the age of the fast moving internet and information at your
fingertips, we sometimes are lulled into the feeling that these services will be there
for us in a disaster. They won’t! Write all these numbers down plus local utility
numbers and emergency contacts.
The main thing to remember in an emergency is that your animals are your family as
well and need to be taken care of in an emergency or evacuation situations so please
do not forget about your beloved pets.
Battalion Chief Karl Huegerich is the Fire Marshall with the Apex Fire Department
(a rapidly growing city south of Raleigh). If your town does not have an Emergency
Action Plan for Pets, they can contact Karl at [email protected]
Check list for evacuation:
Medication, medical records and a first aid kit for you pets.
Sturdy leashes, harnesses, and/or carriers to transport pets safely.
Current photos of your pets in case they get lost.
Inexpensive dog tags can be ordered through most pet stores.
Feed, potable water, towels, cat litter pan, and can opener and plastic.
Information on feeding schedule, medical conditions, behavior problems and name
and number of your vet in case you have to foster or board your pets.
Pet toys and beds.
Make sure that all vaccinations are up to date.
To transport your animals safely:
Condition your animals to being in a cage, carrying case, pet/trailer
Take three to five days’ worth of supplies – food, water, high water content fruits/
vegetables, medication, cat litter, “comfort toys.”
Birds/lizards – blanket to keep cage warm plant mister to hydrate feathers.
Snakes-pillowcase to transport/heating pad for warmth/water bowl to soak.
Pocket pets (hamsters/gerbils)-cage bedding material/water bottles.
If you must leave your pets behind
Leave them untied in an interior room with adequate air and no windows (such as a
bathroom).
Purchase a self-feeder and waterier in advance and leave enough food and water for
at least 3 days.
Leave favorite bed and toys.
Place notice on front door with location and type of pets, their names and your contact phone number.
NEVER leave animals tied up outside.
National Cockatiel Society, Inc.
Page 5
LOUISIANA: Richar d Nicolaisen
(318) 382-2246 - [email protected]
MAINE: Ruth Doughty
(207) 344-8640
[email protected]
ALABAMA: Tony & Tr ish Albr itton
[email protected]
MASSACHUSETTTS: Pat Tucker (978) 443-5218
[email protected]
ARKANSAS: Mar y Wagster
(870)346-5190 - [email protected]
MICHIGAN: Kim & Scott Mackey
(810)367-7483 [email protected]
CALIFORNIA: Rober t Finalet
[email protected]
MISSISSIPPI: Tony & Tr ish
Albritton [email protected]
COLORADO: Peggy Avila
(303) 663-0399 - [email protected]
NEBRASKA: Sue Ellen Pr ay (402)782-2051
[email protected]
FLORIDA: J ulia Allen
(352) 360-1035 - [email protected]
NEVADA: Gr eg LeFr ancis [email protected] (702)538-5138
Judy Shapiro (850) 294-3425
[email protected]
NEW HAMPSHIRE: Allen Fox [email protected]
GEORGIA: Kar en Per due
(770) 382-4225 - [email protected]
NORTH CAROLINA:
Leslie Huegerich
[email protected]
HAWAII: J anet Mishier
(808) 268-1553 [email protected]
PENNSYLVANIA: Ellen O’Neil
(717)582-2412 [email protected]
KENTUCKY: J osh Per kins
(502) 741-6767 [email protected]
Page 6
April/May/June 2014
PURETO RICO: J ose Ber nar dy
(787) 738-0203
[email protected]
TEXAS: Royce Ir win
(817) 572-6262
[email protected]
Janelle O’Rourke
[email protected]
Memo from the State Coordinator Chair
We are still in need of State Coordinators in the following states:
Alaska, Arizona, Connecticut, Delaware, Idaho, Indiana, Minnesota,
Mississippi, Missouri, Montana, New Jersey, New Mexico, New
York, North Dakota, Oklahoma, Ohio, Oregon, Rhode Island,
South Carolina, South Dakota, Tennessee, Vermont, Virginia,
Washington D.C., West Virginia, Wisconsin ,Wyoming.
If your state is not represented and you would like to become involved
in promoting NCS in your local area, please contact me via e-mail at
[email protected]
Jim Heffernan
2nd Vice President
State Coordinator Chair
National Cockatiel Society, Inc.
Page 7
The following Clubs have affiliated for the 2014 Calendar year.
APPALACHIAN BIRD BREEDERS
& EXHIBITORS
Ellen O'Neil
Shermans Dale, PA
774-281-3307
[email protected]
MID-AMERICAN EXOTIC BIRD
SOCIETY
Susan Stieve
Columbus, OH
614-205-3755
[email protected]
www.maebs.com
BALTIMORE BIRD FANCIERS
Christine Roberts
410-343-1807
[email protected]
www.baltimorebirdfanciers.org
MID-ATLANTIC COCKATIEL
BREEDERS & EXHIBITORS
Josh Maple
[email protected]
COCKATIEL SOCIETY OF
PAKISTAN
Hamid Raza Shah
[email protected]
EAST COAST EXHIBITORS
GROUP
Leslie Huegerich
[email protected]
FORT WORTH BIRD CLUB
Royce Irwin
817-572-6262
[email protected]
GREATER CHICAGO CAGE BIRD
CLUB
Villa Park, IL
Julia Howard
[email protected]
www.gccbc.org
MOUNTAIN STATES AVIAN
SOCIETY
Brighton, CO
Jesse Avila
303-663-0399
[email protected]
www.msasbirds.org
NEW ENGLAND COCKATIEL
BREEDERS & EXHIBITORS
Wendy LaBanca
140 Almy Street
Warwick, RI 02886
401-732-0693
[email protected]
www.necbe.com
NORTH TEXAS COCKATIEL CLUB
Royce Irwin
817-572-6262
[email protected]
TEXAS BIRD BREEDERS &
FANCIERS ASSOCIATION
Page 8
April/May/June 2014
The Evolution of the Exhibition Cockatiel
by: Pat Tucker/Feathering Crest Aviary
Cockatiels are regal and elegant members of the parrot family who are widely
sought after by aviculturists to breed toward a standard of excellence. But it was
not always so. In my experience in breeding cockatiels over more than three decades, the evolution of the species has been remarkable. In the 1960’s and most of
the 1970’s, the cockatiel bred in captivity was an inferior flighty bird, smaller than
its original wild counterpart with poor cheek patches and thin, short crests. In
1983, the National Cockatiel Society was founded and developed a Standard of
Excellence to encourage the breeding of a healthy, robust, and beautiful cockatiel.
Below is an example.
It was just prior to this, in 1981 that I bred my first cockatiel. By the early 1990’s, the temperament of the cockatiel
began to change to a calmer and more pet-friendly bird
due to the selective breeding of responsible aviculturists.
It became clear that personality and other emotional traits
were inheritated along with desireable and undesireable
visual traits.
The National Cockatiel Society has continually stressed
responsible breeding in both categories. By the late
1990’s, the change in temperament of our cockatiel continued to evolve, and the visual appearance of the cockatiel boasted a good size bird with a large blocky head, a
more pronounced cheek patch, a long, full crest, and
straight back line.
As we entered the 2000’s, it became evident that too much
weight was being added to our cockatiels. We realized
that bigger was not better as the size of our cockatiels was being determined mostly by weight. It became evident that a longer, larger skeletal structure was the next
step in the evolution of our captive-bred cockatiels to maintain optimum health.
Once this was accomplished by a few dedicated aviculturists, it was recognized by
NCS Judges that this new style bird was closer to the visual standard and easily
won heavily on the show bench.
This is where exhibition is instrumental in guiding captive-breeding in the direction that is best for the species. Our cockatiel has since evolved into the streamlined bird we see today, which is more consistant with the cockatiel in the wild.
Our captive-bred cockatiel is now longer with a larger skeletal body structure
which doesn’t carry more weight than is healthy for the bird. Longevity has increased and egg laying is more successful. These stunning birds are still winning
on the show bench today. This is all due to the efforts of many dedicated breeders
in the National Cockatiel Society as they educate newcomers to breed healthy,
stunning, show winning birds.
I encourage the budding cockatiel breeders out there to attend local shows to learn
more about breeding exhibition quality cockatiels.
National Cockatiel Society
Page 9
CONSIDER SHOWING YOUR PET BIRD
by Linda Greeson Rice
Fall and early winter are my favorite times of the year, and not just because of the
delightful weather. Most weekends in these months find me driving long distances
and flying even longer distances to attend just as many bird shows as I can possibly
manage.
There is a great deal of work, time, and expense involved in all these activities. I
desert my family and my beloved birds and work incredibly hard at loading and
unloading cages of birds, show cages, and all the bird necessities. Packing for
myself is a minor consideration. "What to show" is far more important than "What
to wear."
I have many reasons for all this activity. Although I have enjoyed a great deal of
success, winning those ribbons and plaques is not my primary objective.
Experience has proved to me that attending even a small, local show is a good
opportunity to add to my knowledge about birds. As a breeder, being completely
familiar with the fine points of what constitutes the ideal of the species is important
to my breeding program. Developing a knowledgeable and critical eye gives me the
ability to pick up minor defects in my own stock and work toward eliminating them
in making breeding choices.
At bird shows, almost always the judges make constructive comments, offering
their reasons for choosing one bird over another. There is no better opportunity
available than that of listening attentively, trying to see what they see in each bird,
and thereby adding to your own judgement and knowledge.
I not only learn from judges, but so much from friends I meet at the shows. We
freely share little hints, ways of handling problems, and sympathize with each
others' frustrations. Just socializing with other bird lovers makes a show weekend
a fun experience.
The major bird magazines list bird clubs, bird shows scheduled, and the person to
contact for information. Your local bird club will be glad to come to your
assistance. You will find the show catalogue a valuable source of information.
There is rarely an admission charge and the fee for entry of a bird is never more
than a dollar or two.
The most important preparation for a novice entering a bird in a show for the first
time is to have the bird in perfect feather condition. Daily baths or misting for
weeks before the show will assure beautiful plumage to attract the admiration of the
judge. Whatever the requirements for the cage (usually quite lenient in the Novice
Page 10
April/May/June 2014
Although you will be entering your bird in the Novice Division, you will not be
denied the opportunity to compete with more experienced exhibitors. The Best Novice competes with the Best in all other divisions for the coveted Best In Show award.
Many times the first time exhibitor has walked away with this prize. Your pet bird
could be an unrecognized champion.
At the smaller, local shows, the entries in many classes are quite limited. Your bird
may be competing with only one or two others of the same species, or even be the
only entrant in the class. Regardless of the number of birds entered in your
classification, and even if yours is the only one, you may have a lovely blue ribbon
rosette, appropriately marked in gold lettering, to take home as a souvenir of your
first show. There is no need to give details of your winning to your admiring friends.
Even if you are not entering your bird in competition do try attending a show as a
spectator. You will find warm, friendly people, anxious to talk and exchange
experiences. You will have the opportunity to view collections of lovely birds,
often species you have never seen before. Once bitten by "the show bug" you will
National Cockatiel Society
Page 11
JUDGES
Julia Allen
Judges Panel Chair
35920 Lake Unity
Nursery Rd.
Fruitland Park, FL 34731
(352) 360-1035
[email protected]
Clarence Culwell-NAPS,NFSS
250 Horseshoe Drive
Springtown, TX 76082
(817) 220-5568
[email protected]
Al Decoteau - NFSS, SPBE
P.O. Box 546
Hollis, NH 03049
(603) 672-4568
[email protected]
Deb Dollar - SPBE
P.O. Box 12058
Brookville, FL 34603
(352) 799-7294
[email protected]
Roland Dubuc,- ALBS, NAPS
Panel Secretary
P.O. Box 1651
Fallbrook, CA 92088
(760) 731-6188
[email protected]
Philip Feret- SPBE
742 W. Garner Rd., #206A
Garner, NC
(919) 270-5911
[email protected]
Page 12
Jim Heffernan - SPBE
780 Fairwood
Inkster, MI 48141
(313) 247-5900
[email protected]
Frank Horan - ALBS
111 Abbot Street
Staten Island, NY 10305
(718) 816-9689
[email protected]
Leslie Huegerich - NAPS
611 Quest Ridge Drive
Fuquay Varina, NC 27526
[email protected]
Sabrina Frizzell
1701 Rainey Road
Temple, GA 30179
(770) 294-2782
[email protected]
Royce Irwin - NAPS
4211 Kelley Elliot Road
Arlington, TX 76106
(817) 572-6262
[email protected]
Sherri Lewis
Palmyra, VA
[email protected]
Wendy Lomas
145 153rd Pl SE
Bellevue, WA 98007
(352) 238-5148
[email protected]
April/May/June 2014
PANEL
Scott Mackey
P.O. Box 610683
Port Huron, MI
(810) 367-7483
[email protected]
Josh Maple - ALBS, NAPS
1308 Kelly Road
Garner, NC 27529
[email protected]
Gary Morgan - ALBS, NAPS
15341 Kingston Street
Brighton, CO 80602
(303) 659-9544
[email protected]
Jeff Robinson - NAPS
5700 Monterrey
Fort Worth, TX 76112
(817) 709-9041
[email protected]
Pat Tucker - SPBE
80 Lincoln Road
Sudbury, MA 01776
(978) 443-5218
[email protected]
National Cockatiel Society, Inc.
JUDGES EMERITUS
Charlie Anchor (deceased)
Lloyd Bailey (deceased)
Harold Bowles (deceased)
Henry Castle
Don Dunn (deceased)
Dominic Franzo
Carl Helton (deceased)
Ray Johnson
Charlie Kruger (deceased)
Keith Reimer (deceased)
Dale Theeke (deceased)
Paul Williams
Auggie Murray-Young
Jose Bernardy
Lee Horton
Barbara Theeke
Conrad Meinert
Inactive
Linda Arnett
Judges– send show reports here:
Show Reports Editor
Chris Orowitz
1776 Walter Boone Road
Rineyville, KY 40162
[email protected]
Page 13
HANDFEEDING
By: Pat Tucker
(All Rights Reserved)
.
.
Hand-rearing is a demanding, time-consuming process which is undertaken by the
aviculturist:
* to raise offspring hatched from artificial incubation
* to save sick or abandoned young
* to reduce the burden of parental care on compromised parents.
* to encourage production of a second clutch
* to prevent transmission of disease (0ther than transovarian)
from the parents
Neonatal Development & Problems in the Nest: Upon hatching, a cockatiel chick
is not capable of thermo-regulation and must be brooded constantly by the parent
for the first two weeks to ensure survival. As a result, nest inspection often reveals
an aggravated, fluffy parent who refuses to budge off eggs and babies. Oftentimes,
hatching must be determined by the presence of begging and feeding sounds
emulating from the nest. To avoid injuries, further interference is not recommended
unless problems are suspected. A new hatchling may not be fed until the yoke sac is
thoroughly absorbed, which may take up to 12 hours, however, it is most common
to hear feeding sounds within an eight hour period. Constant begging which is not
followed by the usual feeding sounds is a clear warning sign and should never be
ignored. To assist the parents with the strenuous feeding schedule, nestling foods
such as warm cooked vegetables, rice, beans, and egg foods should be offered
during the early weeks of chick development in addition to the regular diet. The
parents swallow food, partially digest it using enzymes in their crop and regurgitate
the food to the chicks. During this process, gram-positive bacteria is also transferred
to the chick to promote proper functioning of
the gut, protect against infection, and help
synthesize certain nutrients. As a result, it is
best to leave the chicks with their parents for
at least a week (preferably 2-3 weeks) before
pulling them for
hand-feeding.
Problem areas during the nestling stage
include insufficient feeding, rejection,
quill-pulling, and mutilation. Fostering is
usually successful to a nest of the same
species whose chicks are in the same
developmental stage. In the cases of rejection
or mutilation, pulling the chick immediately
for hand feeding is recommended. However, in a large brood where the youngest
chicks are not being fed adequately, supplementary feedings in the nest usually
Page 14
April/May/June 2014
Formulas & Feeding Methods: There is a distinct advantage to allowing the natural
parents to rear their own young for the first 7 days. Species-specific normal flora is
regurgitated in the crop milk and established in the alimentary tract which ensure a
strong immune system and a healthy chick. No human foster-parent, even with the
scientifically-formulated handfeeding diets available on the market today, can match
this normal flora. Chicks pulled for hand-feeding at 7-10 days, however, and given a
lactobacillus product in their hand-feeding formula rarely experience health
complications traced to the absence of normal flora.
.
There are two basic methods of handfeeding: "Adlibitum" and Gavage. "Adlibitum"
is Latin meaning "to the desire" and utilizes the chicks natural feeding response by
depositing only the amount of formula desired by the chick. The spoon, syringe, eye
dropper or pipette is recommended for this feeding technique, and is preferred to
gavage feeding since it simulates the natural feeding method of the parent bird.
During this method of feeding, the instrument is inserted into the left side of the beak
angled toward the esophagus (which is located on the right) and the formula is
released slowly as the bird's head 'chugs' back and forth using the chick's natural
feeding response. To stimulate the feeding response, the thumb and fore-finger
should be placed on the pads located on either side of the upper mandible just below
the cere.
Gavage feeding, on the other hand, deposits the formula into the crop using a feeding
needle or a catheter tube without initiating the feeding response. Because of the
possible dangers associated with this technique, this method of feeding is not
recommended for an inexperienced feeder since the feeding tube or needle is actually
inserted into the mouth of the esophagus and down into the crop so that the formula
can be released quickly.
National Cockatiel Society, Inc.
Page 15
Housing & Management Techniques in the Nursery: The age of the nestling
and amount of quilling will determine the environmental conditions required in
the nursery. During the early weeks, electric brooders which are thermostatically
controlled with circulating air and humidity regulators are preferable.
The temperature should be set at 85-90 degrees F.
during the early quilling stage. This can be
accomplished in an electric brooder or a fish tank
with a heating pad placed underneath. Wrap the
heating pad in a towel to prevent potentially lethal
burns should the baby burrow through the bedding
and come in direct contact with the bottom of the
tank.
If a make-shift brooder is used, place a room
thermometer inside and regulate the temperature for
at least 24 hours before pulling chicks from the nest. (Note: If a chick pants, reduce the temperature immediately.) As the chick begins to feather out, the temperature can be gradually reduced. Relative humidity should be kept at 50% or slightly above for chicks under 4 weeks. When chicks are completely feathered, a temperature of 75-80 degrees F. is sufficient and weaning foods should be offered.
Once the chicks are fledged and are actively weaning, the chicks can be transferred to a cage and solid food and water offered.
Hygiene: Since har mful bacter ial, vir al and fungal agents ar e pr esent in our
bird's environment, and as aviculturists, one of our main responsibilities to our
captive flocks is to keep these hazards to a minimum through strict hygienic
controls. Handfeeding utensils and formula mixing containers should be cleaned
vigorously and soaked in Virkon-S, or other appropriate non-toxic solution
between feedings. Clutches should be housed individually and a separate batch of
formula and a separate feeding utensil
should be used for each clutch. In addition, hands should be disinfected between
clutches.
Chick Development: Since cockatiels are
altricial birds born naked and helpless,
chick development is a slow, progressive
process requiring specialized care. Chicks
are hatched with an over-developed
hatching muscle at the neck, an egg tooth
located at the tip of the upper mandible
and a sparse hair-like down, either white
or yellow in color. During the first two weeks of development, the hatching
muscle atrophies, the egg tooth gradually
disappears, but the thermo-regulation by the chick remains poor. As the chick
develops, eyes open, quills appear at the head, wing and tail area and thermo-
Page 16
April/May/June 2014
By the beginning of the third week, uncoordinated preening activity is observed.
Quilling fills in on the back and underside, with the exception of the crop area.
There is an increased awareness of external events, and exercise such as walking
and stretching are observed. Active preening results in removal of the feather
sheaths revealing the beautiful feathers of a healthy baby cockatiel, and thermoregulation is good at this stage of development. Feathers eventually cover the crop
area and personality begins to emerge.
Once the chick has grown enough to be able to fly, it generally leaves the nest. This
is called fledging and the fledged bird is called a 'fledgling'. This occurs as early as 4
1/2 weeks in some individuals. Cockatiels experience a "pre-fledging shut-off
period" between the ages of 4-5 weeks. This is a normal occurrence and is
essentially a slimming down process which precedes the act of fledging. During this
time, the normal quantity of formula is refused and regurgitation may be observed.
The number of feedings should be reduced until the regurgitation ceases. Once
fledging is accomplished, normal food consumption usually returns until the
weaning process begins
Weaning: Cockatiel chicks will wean when they are developmentally ready and not
before. Because of this, weaning can be a stressful time for both the chick and the
handfeeder. Offer soft foods like soaked pellets, egg foods, rice as well as fresh
water and small seeds. As the chick begins to refuse feedings, eliminate the mid-day
feeding, followed by the morning and finally the evening meal. This will happen
gradually between the ages of 6 weeks and weaning (approx 8 weeks). Stress and
changes in the diet may cause temporary weight loss, and weight monitoring is
recommended during this stage of development.
Crops should be checked before the late night feeding and once food is felt in the
crop, the weight charts will reveal if the chick is actually sustaining or gaining
weight on its own. Once weight is maintained for 5 days without formula
supplementation, the chick is weaned, which is approximately between 8 and 9
weeks in cockatiels. However, yeast buildup in the crop of excessive gram-negative
bacteria often retards the weaning process and any individual refusing to wean
should be checked by an Avian Veterinarian.
Socialization of Babies: The par ent bir ds in my aviar y, when allowed to r aise
their babies to maturity, teach them many things. How much of their behavior is
inate and how much is learned still remains a mystery to me. If left with a parent,
they do learn to perch, preen, play, eat on their own, related to other birds and,
unfortunately, the fear humans. If they are parent-raised and weaned, they can be
taught to accept humans, but usually on their terms, and fear can definitely be detected in the early stages of training. However, if they are pulled for hand-feeding,
they learn to accept humans as "birds" and there is virtually no fear. In fact,
hand-fed birds will many times assert themselves with their human if things don't go
their way. Based upon this knowledge, it is clear to me that at least social
relatonships are learned, and I suspect that a good deal of the rest is as well. When
we handfeed, we become the parent and it is our responsibility to teach our babies
the things they don't pick up on their own or from their clutch-mates, such as eating
National Cockatiel Society
Page 17
THE CHICK WHO CAN'T STAND UP
By: Linda Greeson Rice
The development of a condition called spraddle -leg in one or more of a clutch of
otherwise thriving and healthy nestlings is an experience that most bird breeders
undergo sooner or later. Until the babies reach the weight bearing stage all seems to
be going well. They are being well fed and growing at an amazing rate of speed. The
breeder then observes that one or more of the babies is not standing up to beg for
food, but remaining at the bottom of the nest box with one leg stretched out to its
right, and the other stretched out to its left. This deviation from the normal at the hip
joint is the condition we call spraddle legs.
The sad part of this discovery is that the effected chick is otherwise fat and healthy.
The parent birds reach down through the bobbing heads of its clutchmates to fill its
open mouth. In the wild, where rescue by a concerned breeder does not happen, the
spraddle legged bird would not survive the fledgling stage. Unable to roost on a
perch, the first flight would probably end in disaster. The bird's dilemma would be
comparable to an airplane landing without its landing gear in place. It is fortunate
that in the breeding situation most of the causes for this condition can be eliminated
and frequently home treatment is effective.
The most common cause is a slippery surface on the floor of the nest box or brooder,
providing insufficient traction for the small feet. Regardless of what nesting material
is provided, some hens vigorously clear out their nest boxes, insisting on setting on
the bare floor. When we discovered nest boxes lined with Formica we were delighted
with the ease of cleaning but soon learned that even with an adequate supply of shavings the slippery surface of the Formica did not supply sufficient traction. The problem was solved by adding false wooden bottoms to the boxes, at least for the birds
who did not promptly gnaw them to bits.
Sometimes, even with an ideal nest box situation, the over zealous hen sits too tightly, causing too much pressure on the delicate nestlings' legs. This most commonly
occurs in the cold weather. When an unusual cold snap occurs, the experienced
breeder knows that nestling's legs need to be checked carefully.
The condition can also develop early in the hand feeding stage. At a local bird shop
the proprietor devised an attractive display of groups of chicks being hand fed, for
observation by her customers. The babies were housed in small glass aquariums and
lined up before a large glass window. They attracted a great deal of attention. Unfortunately she selected a light sprinkling of ground corn cobs for lining the bottom of
her glass containers. A large number of her previously active chicks rapidly developed spraddle legs. She changed her procedure to covering the bottom with folded
paper towels covered with a larger amount of corn cobs and eliminated her problem.
We routinely line the plastic boxes which we use for the babies being hand fed with
paper towels and a generous supply of shavings.
Page 18
April/May/June 2014
In chicks hatched in an incubator, maintaining too high a temperature has been
offered as a cause for this condition. I had one experience that bore out this theory.
Some years ago I incubated fifty Button Quail eggs successfully, only to discover
that most of the chicks were badly spraddle legged. Since these little birds spend
most of their life on the ground, the effected ones had to be destroyed. I tried again,
taking care to keep the temperature in the incubator lower. I was rewarded by a
flock of little Quail well able to run about on the floor of the aviary, a valuable little
clean up crew.
Dietary factors can also contribute to this condition. Sufficient calcium in a well
balanced diet is needed for the feeding parents to produce strong bones in their
offspring. If the condition is noted early enough, preferably in the first three weeks
of life, it usually can be corrected.
I have had excellent results by simply placing an identification band on each leg,
rather than on one leg as is usual. I tie a small length of string through each band,
drawing the legs into the normal parallel position, leaving a small space between the
legs. On the very young birds, when the legs are too small to retain the bands, I tie
the legs together with a narrow strip of gauze bandage in much the same manner.
In the small birds, many bones are only a little thicker than an egg shell. The leg
bones do have internal reinforcing struts, but still require gentle and careful handling
to prevent further damage. Some Veterinarians, in addition to positioning the legs,
prescribe injectable Vitamin E and Selenium.
I leave the bird's legs tied together for about two weeks, making sure that the
brooder is lined with at least two inches of shavings to provide comfortable rest for
my "hobbled" chick. I then cut the tie and observe the chick's behavior for a few
hours. If weight bearing seems normal, as is usually the case, I clip off the extra
band, taking care to correctly register the band numbers in my breeding records.
If the chick is still unable to stand normally, often another week of this treatment
will suffice. It is well to keep in mind, however, that in unusual cases the same
spraddle leg position is assumed when more serious deformities exist. Congenital
hip deformities in which the ball and socket joint is underdeveloped or sometimes
dislocated do occur. These conditions are out of the range of home treatment and
require the attention of a skilled Avian Veterinarian.
Rickets, a far more serious condition, usually discovered at the weight bearing stage,
is not to be confused with simple spraddle legs. When Rickets is present the chick
cannot stand on its feet to beg for food, but the legs give the appearance of folding
up underneath its body rather than stretching out on each side. Again, the services of
a skilled Avian Veterinarian are needed.
The rewards for the effort involved are great. When you see your formerly crippled
bird standing tall on strong legs you can not but help feeling a great sense of accomplishment. You have saved a little bird from certain doom by your own skills.
National Cockatiel Society, Inc.
Page 19
The Spoiled Cockatiel
By Pat Tucker
Baby cockatiels need reassurance when they are young to feel safe and secure in
their environment. However, this nurturing should be tempered with the understanding that any psychologically healthy cockatiel should have a clear sense of
self. This means that each individual, as they mature into adulthood, has the same
basic need: to be independent while still feeling safe, so they can enjoy many
different relationships and levels of bonding during their lifetime.
Observations: Dur ing the 1980s, I allowed my fir st cockatiels to be par ent raised in a colony enclosing 4 bonded & and eventually proven pairs. Through
this process, the parents taught me a great many things. Cockatiel teach their
offspring to fly, to eat, and to eventually to be independent. When a baby tried to
fly unsuccessfully, the parents would swoop down, one on each side, and lift the
baby into the air toward a perch. The parents would do this as many times as was
necessary until the baby was successful. Soon the father of the babies, while still
feeding the fledglings, would feed and then fly to the feeding station and begin to
eat. The baby would follow and beg and beg. The father would continue eating
and the baby would imitate the behavior. Once the baby was weaned, the father
would push the baby away when it would try to follow the father around,
continuing to do this until the baby went off on his own and ate, preened, or hung
with his siblings.
Setting Boundaries: All young bir ds need to know the ‘r ules of life’ so that
they can live a happy, well-adjusted existence. This is also true of our children
and other companion animals. It has been proven over the decades that individuals
who understand and obey society’s laws are the most productive within that
Society. Young cockatiels, who are allowed to manage their own life, end up on a
path which is likely to result in over-dependence, one-person bonding, and other
unsociable behaviors, such as biting. However, if a young bird is taught
independence in a loving, nurturing way, it will soon experience opportunities
for adventure, multiple relationships, and eventually become a productive,
self-assured member of the flock, both human and avian.
The Basket: The fir st step to developing independence in a newly-weaned
baby cockatiel is to train the bird to a play stand, T-perch, or basket. I use
unfinished baskets with a stable handle. They are inexpensive and safe and can be
purchased at most craft stores. Bedding is placed inside the basket along with
small hand-toys and edible items, such as spray millet and dried fruits. Initially,
the baby(s) will instinctively hop off the basket and run to their ‘human parent’,
but they should immediately be placed back on the basket rim repeatedly until
they begin to investigate the toys and food provided there. Soon the baby(s) will
learn to stay on the basket unless they are asked to step up. This teaches the baby
(s) that they are safe a few feet away from their ‘human parent’. A bird is trained
to the basket when as soon as it is placed in front of them, they run to it and start
to chew and play.
Page 20
April/May/June 2014
Verbal Commands: Allowing an untr ained cockatiel to have shoulder pr ivileges
teaches the bird that they are ‘in charge’ of you. Clear signals should given to any
cockatiel early on that you are the ‘flock leader’. Establish verbal commands such as
‘step up’, ‘step down’, ‘go play’, and if necessary ‘stop’. Begin with stepping up and
down, using the basket or T-stand. When a baby insists on clinging to me, too often, I
put the bird on the basket and say ‘go play’. Usually after a ‘cuddle session’, this is a
good way to teach that there are limits to cuddling and it is now time to join the flock
and eat, play, and preen. Occasionally, there will be an individual that will nip to get
a ‘head rub’, or insist on climbing to the shoulder without being invited, and using the
command ‘stop’ and putting the bird on the basket is recommended. This should be
done until the baby accepts your decision.
The Stubborn Baby: Occasionally, you will exper ience an individual that is
particularly stubborn and insists on clinging to you no matter how consistent your
training may be. In these cases, I work with the bird separately from the rest of the
clutch and use an already trained ‘teacher bird’ for assistance. The baby sees the other
bird following the commands and will begin to imitate the behavior, as long as the
‘flock leader’ repeatedly shows the baby how the trained cockatiel is responding.
Retraining the spoiled cockatiel: Bad behaviors, such as allowing a young bird to run
to your shoulder without being asked or allowing the bird to nip in order to get its
head scratched, take a very short time to become established patterns. However, to
retrain the bird to let go of the behavior takes much, much longer. Should you find
yourself in this situation, you must immediately choose a ‘teacher bird’ to assist.
Separate yourself from the bird by not allowing the bird to come to you. Re-establish
training to the basket or T-stand and keep a distance between you. Before you can
re-train the bird to follow your rules, you must first recognize that the bird is overbonded to you. You don’t want to break your bond, but you do want to loosen it so
that the bird is more independent. Once this has been done, you can begin the training
again with your verbal commends.
Over the years I have found that the happiest companion cockatiels are those that understand the boundaries set for them. This creates an environment of peaceful
co-existence between the cockatiel and their ‘human companion’, and allows multiple
relationships from various levels of bonding between avian and human flock members to a tight, respectful bond with the chosen mate.
National Cockatiel Society, Inc.
Page 21
East Coast Exhibitors Group
ECEG - Charlotte Caged Bird Society,
300 6th Street Belmont, NC
April 12 @ 8:00 am April 13 @ 5:00 pm
NCS Triple Show Event Weekend
~ Judy McElveen Memorial Show
Class B Show – Judge Jeff Robinson
Class C Show – Judge Phil Feret
Class B Show – Judge Deb Dollar
*** 3 NCS SHOWS , 3 NAPS SHOWS
***
For more info, contact:
To find hotel information,
exact street addresses,
information on how to
affiliate your own NCS show,
etc., please visit:
www.cockatiels.org
Mid-American Exotic Bird Society
Edwards Building, Franklin County
Fairgrounds,
4100 Columbus
Street Hilliard, OH 43026
May 3 @ 8:00 am - 5:00 pm
Dual NCS Show Event
Class A Show – Judge Gary Morgan
Class A Show – Judge Frank Horan
*** 2 NCS SHOWS, 2 ALBS SHOWS, 2
NAPS SHOWS ***
For more info, contact:
Susan Stieve @ smstieve@gmailcom
Page 22
Mid-Atlantic Cooperative Breeders
& Exhibitors
Holiday Inn RDU,
930 Airport
Blvd. Mooresville, NC 27560
May 24 @ 8:00 am - May 25 @ 5:00
pm
NCS Triple Cockatiel Event Weekend
(3) Class C Shows – Judges TBD
$69/nt – Group Code: BRD
Complimentary shuttle to/from the
RDU Airport
*** 3 NCS SHOWS, 3 ALBS
SHOWS, 3 NAPS SHOWS ***
For more info, contact:
New England Cockatiel Breeders
& Exhibitors
JONAH Community Center,
830 Oakland Beach Avenue Warwick, RI 02889
May 24 @ 8:00 am - May 25 @
5:00 pm
Dual NCS Show Event Weekend
Class C Show – Judge Dr. Al
Decoteau
Class C Show – Judge Pat Tucker
*** 2 NCS SHOWS, 2 ACS
SHOWS, 4 SPBE SHOWS ***
For more info, contact:
Wendy LaBanca @
[email protected]
Visit us on the web
April/May/June 2014
Appalachian Bird Breeders &
Exhibitors,
1652 Pisgah State Road
Shermans Dale, PA 17090
June 14 @ 8:00 am - June 15
NCS Triple Show Event Weekend,
Including the Northeastern
Regional Show
Class A Show – Judge Julia Allen
Class B Show – Judge Royce Irwin
Class B Show – Judge Pat Tucker
East Coast Exhibitors Group
August 9 @ 8:00 am August 10 @ 5:00 pm
Dual NCS Class A Shows, including
the Southeastern Regional Show
Judges: Sabrina Hull,
2nd Judge TBA
Hotel:
Doubletree Hotel Columbia
2100 Bush River Road
Columbia, SC. 29210
Dual NCS Shows ~ Dual ACS Shows ~
Quad Parrot Shows
ACS Judges: Wendy LaBanca, 2nd
Judge TBA
Parrot Judges: Bert McAulay, Leslie
Huegerich, Wendy Labanca, and Julie
Mitchell
For more info, contact:
Leslie Huegerich at
National Cockatiel Society, Inc.
NCS 2014 Specialty Show
August 29 - August 31
NCS QUAD Show Event Weekend,
featuring the 2014 Specialty Show
and the Double Points Show.
(4) NCS Cockatiel Shows – including
the Specialty Show, Double Points
Show and a Baby Show and
(4) NAPS Parrot Shows
NCS Judges: Jeff Robinson
(Specialty Show), Wendy Lomas
Jendro (Double Points Show),
Regular NCS Show Julia Allen,
Deb Dollar (Baby Show)
NAPS Judges: Jeff Robinson,
Deb Dollar, Jim Heffernan,
Leslie Huegerich
Friday, 8/29/14:
6pm (check-in birds at 5:15pm) Baby Show and (1) Parrot Show
Saturday: 8/30/14:
7:30am: check-in birds
9:30am – 5pm: Two NCS Shows
(including the NCS Specialty Show);
Two Parrot Shows
Sunday: 8/31/14:
7:30am: check-in birds
9:30am – 2pm: NCS Double Points
Show and (1) Parrot Show
Page 23
NCS Specialty Show
Brookside Resort, Gatlinburg, TN
463 East Parkway
August 29 – 31, 2014
(4) NCS Shows: NCS Specialty Show ~ NCS Double Points Show ~ NCS
Baby Show ~ NCS Show (4) NAPS Parrots Shows
NCS Judges: Jeff Robinson (Specialty Show),
Wendy Jendro (Double Points Show),
Regular NCS Show Julia Allen, Deb Dollar (Baby Show)
NAPS Judges: Jeff Robinson, Deb Dollar, Jim Heffernan, Leslie Huegerich
Tentative Agenda (we will update as we finalize plans):
Friday:
4pm: Board Meeting
5:15pm: check-in birds
6pm: NCS Baby Show & NAPS Parrot Show #1
Saturday:
7:30am: check-in birds
9:30am - 5pm: Two NCS Shows; Two Parrot Shows
Sunday:
7:30am: check-in birds
9:30am – 2pm: 1 NCS Show; 1 Parrot Show
For more information contact:
Ellen O’Neill, [email protected]
Page 24
April/May/June 2014
Show Rules
NCS Shows: NCS Specialty Show ~ NCS Double Points Show ~
NCS Baby Show ~ NCS Show (4) NAPS Parrots Shows
1. Entry fees: $5 per tag per show, cap at 10 birds per Division.
Pre-order: July 16 – August 21, 2014 for $4 per tag per show, cap at 10 birds per Division.
Pre-ordered cage tags will be available starting Thursday, August 28, 2014
2. Separate entry forms are required for each Division (ie. Cockatiels, Parrots), as well as
for the NCS Baby Show.
3. Entry forms must be completely filled out (electronic forms, print out 2 copies), and used
as follows:
Copy 1 or White: Submitted to the Show Secretaries by noon on Friday, August 29, 2014.
Copy 2 or Yellow: Submitted to the Show Stewards with entries.
Friday shows: Birds will be received in the show hall between 4:30pm-5:15pm Friday.
Friday Judging will begin promptly at 6:00pm.
Saturday/Sunday Shows: Birds will be received between 7am-7:30am (Saturday/Sunday).
Saturday/Sunday Judging will begin promptly at 9:30am.
4. To compete in the Baby Show – birds must be bred and banded with this year’s band.
5. Show cage: Only one bird per show cage. The floor of the cage should be covered with a
layer of seed. Avoid seed with colored dyes, which may stain light-colored feathers and detract from the bird's appearance.
6. Only the show team and appointed team members will be allowed behind the show
benches, no exceptions!
7. All entries must be the property of the exhibitor at least thirty days prior to the show.
Any bird purchased within one year from a judge cannot be shown in the NCS Division
shows when that judge is officiating in that Division at the show.
8. The Show Managers or the Judges have the authority to reject any bird showing any
signs of illness. Exhibitors accept all risk to their birds. Every possible attention will be given
to the care of the birds, but the NCS and sponsoring clubs will not be held responsible for
any accident, mistake, loss, theft or damage that may occur to any exhibit.
9. No animals will be permitted in the kitchen, no exceptions!
NCS reserves the right to amend and add to these rules.
Show Managers: Ellen O’Neil & Leslie Huegerich
National Cockatiel Society, Inc.
Page 25
NCS BAND ORDER
REGULAR BANDS
25 for $17.25
50 for $28.75
75 for $40.75
100 for $53.00
200 for $103.50
LARGE BANDS
25 for $19.75
50 for $32.25
75 for $45.00
100 for $57.50
200 for $108.00
Band codes must include a two-digit number followed by a letter
e.g. (77B). Please select three choices. If none of your choices are
available an alternate code will be assigned to you.
Bands are numbered 01-25, 26-50, etc. If your first order was 01-25,
your second order for the same year would begin with the number 26.
Allow 4 to 6 weeks for delivery.
NCS Member #________________
Date: _____________
Name:_______________________________________________
Address: _____________________________________________
City:_________________________ State: _______ Zip: _______
Email: _____________________________ Phone: ____________
Band Code Choices:
1st: ______ 2nd: _______ 3rd: _______
Band Size: _____________
Bands to begin with number: _____________
Year: _________
Total # of bands ordered: _____________
Amount Enclosed: ___________________
Please send all payments made out to the
National Cockatiel Society to:
NCS Membership
c/o Deb Dollar, Treasurer
Page 26
April/May/June 2014
NATIONAL COCKATIEL SOCIETY
MEMBERSHIP APPLICATION
Date: _____________
Name:_____________________________________________
Address:___________________________________________
City: ____________________________________
State: ________________________
Zip Code: ________
Phone: _________________________
E-mail: ____________________________________________
1 Year Membership
Single $21.00 _________ Family $26.00 _______
3 Year Membership
Single $55.00 _________ Family $70.00 ________
Internet Membership
$9.95 Must apply online at www.cockatiels.org
NCS REGISTERED AVIARY
$20 includes your registered aviary listed on the NCS website.
Advertise your aviary with the most popular cockatiel website on the
internet with over 1.6 MILLION hits per month.
Registered Aviary: $20.00 year ly
Aviary Name: _______________________________________
Website: ___________________________________________
TOTAL ENCLOSED: _____________
National Cockatiel Society
Page 27
ADVERTISE IN THE NCS JOURNAL
Classified line ads: $.30 per word for one time insertion, $7.50
minimum. There is a 5% discount for 4 insertions when prepaid.
Ad copy cannot change during this 4-insertion period. Ads MUST
contain the owner or aviary name.
Make checks payable to the NCS and mail payment to:
Deb Dollar,
P.O. Box 12058,
Brooksville, FL 34603
Please e-mail your ads to:
Julia Allen
[email protected]
(Note: NCS assumes no responsibility for the validity of any
Advertiser’s Journal Advertising (Rates per issue subject to change)
The Cover Photo and the inside Centerfold
are not available to advertisers at this time.
Inside Front Cover $150 (color)
Inside Back Cover
$150 (color)
Outside Back Cover $200 (color)
Full Page (4.5X7.5) $40
Half Page (4.5X3.75) $25
1/4 or Business Card $15
NCS Print specifications
All copy, photos and ads submitted, including the “coverbird” are
subject to the approval by the NCS Journal Editor and Ad Manager.
NCS Coverbirds should be of exceptional professional quality.
The NCS reserves the reprint rights of all photography including, but
not limited to, the respective NCS Journal and NCS Online.
NCS retains full copyrights on all articles written exclusively for the
Page 28
April/May/June 2014