March 2011

Transcription

March 2011
Take
Me I’m
Free
Your Independent, Local Guide to
Eating and Drinking in Edinburgh
March 2011
www.bite-magazine.com
Restaurant & Bar Reviews
Food, Wine, Beer,
Cocktails, Whisky, Listings
Win
the Big Amigo
Platter for two
from El Barrio
See p.39
THE DOME
14 GEORGE STREET, EDINBURGH EH2 2PF
TEL 0131 624 8624 • FAX 0131 624 8649
EMAIL [email protected] • www.thedomeedinburgh.com
Incorporating: The Grill Room, The Club Room,
Conference and Private Dining Facilities, The Garden Café
The Grill Room – Open from 12 noon until Late, every day
– A la Carte Lunch and Dinner Menus.
The Club Room – Open for Coffees and Food from
10 am until 5 pm – Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday,
10 am until Late – Thursday, Friday and Saturday. CLOSED ON SUNDAY.
Afternoon Tea – Afternoon Tea is available from 2 pm until 5 pm in
The Grill Room and The Club Room every day. Tables are allocated on
a first-come, first-served basis.
Fresh, Simple, Sustainable
Locally sourced Scottish fish and shellfish on The Shore
Book now 0131 538 6131
60 Henderson Street, Edinburgh • [email protected] • www.cafefish.net
Hello Biters!
Editor, The Ship,
Limekilns
Words
Dave Albury
Mark Earl
Rachel Edwards
The Insider
Leila Arfa
Lea Harris
Sandy Ramsay
Kelly Smith
Sharon Wilson
James Wrobel
Davy King
The Go-Between
Front Cover
Thanks to El Barrio
5
D
espite my passion for liquid culture (see picture!) occasionally I
‘take the pledge’. I am not alone. Many of my contemporaries
are increasingly abstaining from time to time. I never however,
‘go off’ my food and it amazes me that so few Edinburgh bars and
restaurants stock non-alcoholic beers and wines. Mark Earl writes about
‘mock-tails’ in this issue which are great but can be overly sweet and
difficult to pair with food. I prefer the ‘adult’ taste of beer so this
month I would like to award ‘brownie points’ to Howies and Barioja for
being two places I have visited that stock Furstenberg Frei and Mahón
Sin respectively.
A Norwegian friend of mine is currently organising an alcohol-free
party for her 14 year old son and is sourcing wine, beer and cider from
Sweden. Sales of non-alcoholic and alcoholic drinks have risen in
Sweden in recent years so the availability of the former does not
appear to preclude the latter. Your opinions are welcomed; please
email us, until next month…Love from Bite x
In this issue
07
09
11
13
Review – Howies
Review – Hewat’s
Review – The Apartment Bistro
Review – Mark Greenaway at
Hawke & Hunter
15 Review – The Road Hole
Restaurant
16 The Insider
17
19
22
24
25
27
29
39
Cocktails
Beer
Off The Trolley
Wine
Gourmet Girl
Whisky
What’s In Season
Competitions
Publisher/Editor I Sharon Wilson I 01383 616126 I M 07780 763613
I [email protected] I www.bite-magazine.com • Assistant Editor I Kelly Smith
I [email protected] • Design I Donna Earl I [email protected]
© Bite Magazine 2011 – All items contained within this publication are copyright to Bite Publishing
and cannot be taken or edited without the permission from the copyright holder.
This magazine is printed on FSC certified paper.
6
Bites...
Supernature
Supernature is a new cold pressed
rapeseed oil which has just hit the
market and is locally produced at
Carrington Barns Farm, Gorebridge. If
you'd like to buy direct from the farm,
please contact [email protected]
or call them on 01875 830200.
Henrick’s Bar
in Tollcross/Bruntsfield has
recently come under the new
ownership of Ailsa Cowe and Chris
Reid and is quickly gaining kudos
amongst locals. The menu includes
‘pub favourites’ mixed with
‘contemporary dishes’. Ailsa
worked in Australia making wine
and the list reflects her
enthusiasm. Tastings are on the
cards so watch this space. 1-3
Barclay Place – 0131 229 2442
www.HenricksBar.com
Martin Wishart
has announced that he is to open
a second restaurant in Edinburgh.
Scheduled to open in May the
brasserie-style eatery will be
located in North Castle Street.
Unlike the Michelin-starred Leith
restaurant the new venture will
feature starters at £5-£12 and
main courses from £12.
Simple Simon’s Perfect Pies
will be launching a limited edition Red Nose Pie in March to help raise money
for Comic Relief. All of the profits from wholesale and retail sales will be
donated to the charity. The pie is based on the Cheese and Onion Pie which
won a gold star in the Great Taste Awards 2010. It retails at £4.05 and is
available from selected stockists including Waitrose, Peckhams, Dobbies
Garden Centres and Green & Blue Wines.
Serendipity
Serendipity is a new Italian Wine Bar and Cellar from Rosario
Sartori at 7-11 East London Street underneath Rosario’s restaurant,
Locanda de Gusti. It will feature exclusive artisan beers imported
from ‘the old country’, cocktails, wines and bar menu. There is also
a private tasting room.
I
Review:
Howies
Fine food without the faff
n recent years Edinburgh’s gastronomic
spotlight has fallen on two types of
restaurant. Those in the ‘fine-dining’
category, all ‘paint’, ‘pearls’ , plenty of swirls
and no knickers, and more modest
establishments providing an unpretentious
‘spot of supper’. Between the two, lay a
plethora of mid-range restaurants serving
dishes constructed from excellent local
produce, executed well and priced fairly.
Howies’ foodie feet are firmly planted in this
camp.
‘The dowager’ and I found ourselves at the
Waterloo branch recently and were
impressed. I started with the crayfish cocktail
(£4.95) made with crème fraîche, which made
for a lighter dish than ‘mayo’. Lots of cayenne
gave fiery kick and a squirt of lemon,
sharpness. The pink and crimson crayfish
were, plump, meaty and plentiful. It was
excellent and I washed it down with a
Furstenberg Frei (brownie points duly
awarded). The dowager liked her apple and
parsnip soup (£3.45). The fruit cut the
vegetable sweetness nicely and she declared
it a soup ‘par excellence!
Next up was oven-roasted breast of
pheasant wrapped in smoky bacon with
Stornoway black pudding duxelle, celeriac
mash, and beetroot and orange ‘slaw’ for me
(£14.05) and grilled fillet of bream served on
baled polenta cake with lemon, char-grilled
courgettes and a smoked tomato coulis for
her nibs (£14.95). I could see the fish was
excellent by its shiny skin and moist, flaky
flesh. The polenta was citrusy and the sauce
intense. My pheasant was cooked
intelligently so that it remained moist and
was complemented by the earthy
vegetables, blood oranges with purple beets,
glossy emerald spinach, creamy celeriac
purée; an epitome to winter colour and
seasonal taste.
Desserts were a retro pear Belle Hélène for
me and an apple and plum crumble (£4.50)
for the dowager. She was under-whelmed and
I half agree. Buttery nuggets of crumble
which she disliked I thought were good but
the fruit had stewed a tad too long. My pear
by contrast had just the correct level of firm
sweetness. Poached in white wine it had the
dreamiest champagne colour. Chocolate
sauce, ice cream, a sprig of mint and dusting
of cocoa and icing sugar made it as attractive
as the rest of the evening’s dishes.
Fine food indeed. (S. Wilson)
Howies
– 29 Waterloo Pl, Edinburgh EH1 3BQ
– 0131 556 5766
– www.howies.uk.com
Opening hours
Lunch Sun-Fri 12 noon-2.30 pm,
Sat 12 noon-3pm &
Dinner Mon-Sun 5.30-10pm
7
‘The best of Scottish produce prepared
for you in the heart of Edinburgh’
Deli & Licensed Cafe
15 Blackfriars Street, Edinburgh, EH1 1NB
Pop in for Afternoon Tea!
Tel: 0131 556 6922
www.edinburghlarder.co.uk
I
Review:
Hewat’s
A classy joint
’d grown jaded. Once, I yearned for
homely, rustic fare from Edinburgh
restaurants and along came The Dogs,
Roseleaf et al. But I am a fickle foodie and
now demanded refinement, “where have all
the chefs gone?” I sulked into my haricot
bean stew with celeriac shavings. Then came
the invitation to dine at Hewat’s and I
experienced a ‘corpse reviver’ of a meal.
A squash game followed by a sprint to
Causewayside in typical Edinburgh weather
saw Mr Bite un-plastering hair from my
forehead as we perused the menu. The
ambience is seductive and cosy, a real haven.
For starters I chose seared kings scallops with
garlic and caviar butter (£8.50) whilst Mr Bite
plumped for the wild mushroom and leek
soup with truffle oil (£4.75). My scallops
cuddled together in their ‘Aphrodite’ shell.
They were caramelised on the outside but
had ‘inner thigh’ tenderness inside. Mr Bite
raved about his soup. It was a pretty green
but full of pungent, earthy mushroom flavour.
He commented that “if chefs master the art
of a good soup it is a dish of true class”, I had
to agree.
Main course for me was roast rump of lamb
with port and redcurrant jus, Delmonica
potatoes, red cabbage, grilled courgettes and
vine cherry tomatoes (£16.25). The lamb was
pink and juicy, the cabbage accurately
balanced pique and sweetness, the
courgettes were neither too watery nor too
charred and the jus was intense and rich. Mr
Bite had roast tenderloin of wild boar with
morel mushroom sauce, Parma ham, Arran
mustard mash, and Savoy cabbage and roast
organic carrots (£15.25). He married the
complex rich flavours and textures with a
pint of ‘eighty’. We scraped our plates despite
being full because the food was just so damn
delicious.
Dessert was Tiramisu crème brûlée with
shortbread for me and Mr Bite chose
chocolate torte with cherries marinated in
kirsch (both £5.50). My crème brûlée was
perfect (I have eaten many) and my
shortbread was served with a white quenelle
of cream, raspberries and a coulis. When I
roused Mr Bite from an apparent chocolateinduced coma for some intelligent comment
he drooled that it was “the best dessert he
had ever had” and fell back into it with
dreamy eyes.
Good food, proper service and a talented
execution of dishes left us wondering why
Hewat’s doesn’t have a rosette. (S. Wilson)
Hewat’s
– 19-21b Causewayside, Edinburgh EH9 1QF
– 0131 466 6660
– www.hewatsedinburgh.co.uk
Opening hours
Lunch: Wed-Sat 12 noon-2pm;
Dinner: Mon-Thurs 6pm-9.30pm,
Fri & Sat 6pm-10pm.
9
The WATERLINE
A warm and inviting Bar/Bistro with
views over ‘The Water of Leith’.
Plus cosy fire, large selection of wine,
spirits, bottled beers & ales, fresh coffee,
Suki Tea, WiFi. Live music every Saturday
night or come along on a Thursday night to
join the popular pub quiz!
Food cooked with love!
58The Shore, Leith
served 12-3pm 5-9pm & all day Fri, Sat & Sun.
0131 554 2425
The best little slice of Poland in
Edinburgh just got a lot bigger
Now serving hot food & Polish specialities
to sit in and some available for takeway
Try our Bigos/Hunter’s stew, available in small and large
portions • Pierogi/Dumplings ruskie with
potatoes, onion, and cheese in small and
large portions • Zapiekanka/hot baguettes,
cheese and mushroom, cheese and ham or
cheese and tomatoes • Hot dogs • and our
‘must try’ Polish antipaste selections of
cheeses, meats, salads, and fish – served
with a roll.
P
O
235-241 Leith Walk, Edinburgh EH6 8NY
Tel: 0131 555 1281
OPENING HOURS
Mon to Fri 9-8 • Sat 9-6 • Sun 10-6
LIS
H D E L I C AT E S S
EN
T
Review:
The Apartment
he Apartment is all
grown up. A restaurant I
first met 10 years ago, its
easy vibe and relaxed dining
options suited those (like me)
looking for an affordable place
to eat out. Today, ‘bistro’ has
been tagged on to the name,
and they’ve had a re-vamp.
Interior, menu and all.
We began with mixed olives
and bread, and I had a feeling
we were in for a good night
when we were brought some top quality
gordal and kalamata olives. We munched
away whilst trying to decide what to order.
Eventually, I selected one of the day’s specials
– pork belly with scallop and winter
chanterelles, and Graeme went for the
smoked haddock risotto with poached egg.
Mine was an elegantly presented dish, the
giant pan-seared queenie was sweet, and
contrasted with the saltiness of the pork
belly. The meat was soft and topped with
crunchy criss-cross crackling. G’s choice just
trumped it, as it was a plate of food that was
so comforting it felt like a cuddle. The joy
was in the balance of this dish: haddock that
wasn’t too pungently smoked, creamy rice
and a perfectly runny poached oeuf.
Another special for my main course, roast
haunch of venison with parsnip mash, vanillabraised celery and pickled walnuts. The
melting pink venison and the sweet root
Change is good
vegetable mash paired up for a
wonderful winter dish. I wasn’t
sold on the celery though. Not
quite braised enough, and with
an at-odds bitter taste.
G’s skirt steak (a more
economical cut) had been
cooked so quickly it was still
sizzling when it arrived. Though
the meat gave the gnashers a
little more work than some
cuts, it was so full of flavour
that it was worth it. Teamed
with sautéed mushrooms and chunky chips,
this was a hunger-pleasing bistro classic.
To finish, I had a pear frangipane tart with
crème anglaise. The pastry was excellent
however the filling could have been a tad
more almondy. Mr. G picked the berry sorbet
with Russian vodka, which we were surprised
to find were served as two separate entities.
After the punchy meal he’d had, this was not
only a sweet treat but a tangy palatecleanser.
We left happy, well fed, and looking forward
to The Apartment’s next 10 years. (L. Arfa)
The bill: £78 inc wine & dessert wine.
The Apartment Bistro
– 7-13 Barclay Place, Edinburgh EH10 4HW
– 0131 228 6456
– Brunch 11am-5pm Saturdays and Sundays
– Dinner 7 nights, 5pm-11pm
11
NEW & NOW OPEN
Serendipity
Italian Wine and Beer Cellar
(Underneath Locanda De Gusti)
–
–
–
–
–
Exclusive Artisan Beers imported from Italy.
Fine Selection of Wines and Cocktails.
Candelit, relaxed ambience and comfy seating.
Italian Bar Menu.
Private Tasting Room.
7-11 East London Street, Edinburgh EH7 4BN, Scotland
0131 558 9581 | www.locandadegusti.com
W
13
Review:
Mark Greenaway at Hawke & Hunter
e booked for lunch at the soft
launch of this new regime in the
first week of February. First
impression was relief that the room was
physically warmer – visits in this restaurant’s
previous incarnation had us enjoying the food
& drink while huddling against the open fire
with coats on. Now, a total reupholstering of
the space, which includes carpeting whilst
keeping and enhancing its general ‘charcoal
minimalism’, has raised the temperature to
‘comfortable’ if not actively warming.
On offer this week was a welcome glass of
champagne. Once we had admired the
attractive glassware but been disappointed by
the contents clearly being ‘extra-dry’ (midsweet) Prosecco, rather than Champagne, we
enjoyed the attention of pleasant young staff
– for example the unobtrusively charming girl
who announced a most delicious amusebouche of carrot espuma with coriander seeds
& pumpkin seed oil, topped with micro-herbs
– which instantly raised our expectations.
The active competition now became clear
with the Michelin-starred 21212 virtually
across the road. Food is less fussy, but just as
technically accomplished. We both had the
langoustine bisque with hot smoked salmon
raviolo, topped with a generous ‘blackberry’
of caviar to start – a frothy full-flavoured
broth with a generous langoustine bite
tucked in with the strong smoked salmon
pasta filling.
For mains, well…I used to like skate but had
avoided it since a bad experience in Hampshire
where it had been allowed to ‘mature’ a little
too long before cooking…I held my breath and
risked re-ordering this time: thankfully the
experience renewed my faith. Soft spiral skate
rolls, given additional texture by
accompanying squid, without the squid being
at all tough. This accompanied by a decent
amount of brown butter jus, with beetroot &
quenelles of olive mash – the taste & texture
of the mash making up for its odd appearance.
My only grouch was the ‘pearls’ – a flavour
‘spherified’ in this way has to be intense and a
joy when it bursts in the mouth – these golden
pearls looked lovely but were tasteless and I
have no idea what was in them.
Desserts were picture-perfect and worth the
visit – including an exceptionally attractive
cheese plate for my partner, the well-balanced
selection featuring frosted red grapes. I have
already booked to return with friends to
welcome this new addition! (The Go-Between)
Mark Greenaway at Hawke &
Hunter
– 12 Picardy Place, Edinburgh EH1 3JT
– 0131 557 0952
– [email protected]
Opening Hours
12 noon -3pm & 5.30-10pm, closed Sunday
3 course market menu £19.95 pp, available up
to 7pm.
Club
The Reason to Dine Out
Bite Club is the Gourmet Food & Wine
Club associated with Bite Magazine.
We meet regularly to enjoy good food,
good wine and good conversation.
For More Info
[email protected]
15
Out of Town Review:
The Road Hole Restaurant at
The Old Course Hotel
S
cotland’s larder presents an aristocratic
array of fine food where the best beef,
venison, salmon, seafood and
vegetables are available through a network of
local food producers. Recently, I found
myself sitting amongst some of these
producers at the Road Hole restaurant. I was
there to report on a bespoke tasting menu of
starters showcasing their fare in dishes
created for up coming ‘celebration menus’
like Mother’s Day and Easter.
The restaurant has 3 AA rosettes which
appear well deserved. Courgette soup with a
lavender cappuccino was intensely green,
‘gardeny’ and creamy with a delicate, floral
froth. Sweet, East Neuk crab with fresh
rigatoni and a mustard cream, was
sumptuously soft. Our eyes appreciated the
pretty presentation whilst divine wafts
engaged the nostrils.
Marinated tiger prawns curled tightly in a
mint raita, dark sticky pork ribs in a red and
yellow cherry tomato salsa were enjoyed by
all at our table, potted Craigtoun rabbit, shot
nearby, less so. The rabbit had good texture
and flavour but cold pea and carrot purée
recalled school shepherd’s pie. Warm
Ragstone goats cheese from Clarks’ was
delightfully squidgy and flavoursome and
rocket and beetroot salad simple and
delicious for being so. Smoked Scottish beef
carpaccio from the Buccleuch Estate was
velvety soft which meant the creamy
avocado ‘swirl’ made a slightly surprising but
perfect partner.
If the proof was in the pudding we weren’t
disappointed. Dark chocolate soufflé was as
dark, warm and comforting as the womb. The
top was cracked open so that waiting staff
could decadently fill it with white chocolate
sauce.
Julia Collier and Iain Burnett gilded the lily
with their award-winning artisan chocolates
and if you haven’t yet tasted these little
treats they are also available at Harvey
Nichols. (S. Wilson)
Supplier’s Attending
Fresh Direct • Buccleuch Meats
• Iain Burnett Highland Chocolatiers,
Julie Collier: Iain Burnett • Braehead
Foods • George Campbell and Sons
• Get Juiced • Fisher and Donaldson
• Clarks Foods • Wild Tastes • Brake's
• 3663
The Road Hole Restaurant
– The Old Course Hotel, St Andrews,
Fife KY16 9SP.
– 01334 474371
– www.oldcoursehotel.co.uk
16
A
The Insider:
Vodka Jelly Princess Di
nybody who knows me will tell you I
am an anti-geek – perhaps I flatter
myself, maybe I’m just a
technophobe. So imagine my unalloyed joy
when on one of my infrequent net sweeps I
found Fire and Knives, a print quarterly of
new writing about food. Ironically, and
perhaps aptly, you cannot read it online, you
must subscribe. Their truncated (by me)
manifesto, for would-be contributors, reads:
“We aim to give established (or new) writers a
place for work that would not be published
elsewhere; we don’t pay. F&K is designed to
fit in the food lover’s library rather than
kitchen. Recipes and technique are okay
within the flow of a piece but never as the
main subject. Tone should always be that of
the respectful and enthusiastic amateur, even
when you are an established expert in your
field. We reserve the right to change these
guidelines if they stop us publishing
something we’d love to read.” Pompous
perhaps, but that last line makes me want to
subscribe right away, guerilla food writing
anyone?
How about a lost Elizabeth David review of
Fanny Cradock’s Cooking with Can & Pack?
“The Cradocks believe, as I do, that most
people who eat out of tins do so for pleasure
rather than reasons of economy in time,
trouble or money,” writes David, “but tinned
sardines on buttered toast with processed
cheese browned under the grill is not the
recipe for me.”
Photo essays (of empty restaurants or a pop
up speakeasy), short stories, unpublished
classic food writing, words on obscure TV
food shows and no discernible editorial
interference makes for a ragbag, rollicking,
occasionally pretentious, treasure of a food
quarterly. I intended to speed read the
volumes I was sent for the purposes of this
piece. However, it rapidly became clear that
would be to do Fire & Knives a disservice: it is
an absolute cabinet of curiosities. This from
half an issue alone…
The great beer flood of 1814 in which 9
‘innocent’ people died (my inverted commas).
Vincent Price on Ayrshire Poacher’s Roll. An
article on the TV series 24 observes that
Kiefer Sutherland’s character, Jack Bauer, who
kills 266 people whilst saying “dammit” 118
times, ate one meal in a 192 episodes. Funeral
technicians working on Princess Di’s death
mask used it to make a vodka jelly of her
face…
Issue 4, says Editor Tim Hayward, was
produced on Battle of Britain Tea (it does
exist), Madeira and hand-raised pork pies. I
subscribe to nothing. I shall subscribe to this.
17
Cocktails:
No Sex Please, We’re British
Y
Abstentious? Who, me?
ou’d be forgiven for thinking this was
going to be a review of those terrible
British farces from the Seventies with
their ridiculous plots and innuendo-filled
scripts. Thankfully it’s not. It’s actually a
celebration of those drinks very seldom seen
in my articles in Bite – non-alcoholic
cocktails! I know some of you will find it hard
to believe but not everything I drink contains
alcohol. I do, however, draw the line with
water! With that in mind here are some of my
favourite mocktails.
No Sex Please, We’re British
This is a wonderfully dry and fruity drink,
perfect as the days get warmer and the
evenings get brighter. Into a large jug filled
with ice, pour 500mls of cranberry juice,
500mls of apple juice, 50mls of elderflower
cordial and the juice of two limes. Stir
vigorously and serve, over ice, in highball
glasses. Garnish with a sprig of mint.
Shirley Temple
Named after the bubbly child actress who
went on to become a renowned diplomat
this mocktail has a number of variations – my
favourite is probably the simplest. Over ice in
a highball glass pour a dash of grenadine and
top up with ginger ale. Garnish with a
maraschino cherry and a slice of orange.
Fuzzless Navel
A non-alcoholic version of the lightly
alcoholic Fuzzy Navel. Great for serving at
kids parties while the adults drink the real
thing. Over ice in a highball glass pour 50mls
of peach purée. Top up with freshly squeezed
orange juice and garnish with a slice of
orange. For the adult version replace the
peach purée with peach schnapps.
Virgin Mary (or as it’s called in
Australia, The Bloody Shame)
Just like its sister cocktail, the Virgin Mary is
great as an aperitif or as a pick me up. And,
also like its sister cocktail, most people have
their own recipe or slight variation. This
works for me. Shake 250mls of tomato juice,
5mls of Worcestershire sauce, a squeeze of
lemon, two dashes of Tabasco sauce, a pinch
of salt, a pinch of black pepper and a pinch
of grated horseradish over ice. Strain into a
highball glass filled with ice and garnish with
a celery stick. For something a bit different
replace the tomato juice with vegetable juice.
Normal service will be resumed next month.
(M. Earl)
18
S
Cocktails:
Vodka
cotland loves vodka. We drink
more of it than any other area of
the UK. Much is bought in offlicenses and supermarkets but if you are
looking for diversity and quality you
should really visit Deli Polonia in Leith
Walk. They devote considerable shelf
space to a huge range. You can find
every brand here from the popular
(Wyborova, Zubrowka etc) through to
the finest Polish premium vodkas. As for
flavours, you name it, cherry, lemon,
honey, vanilla, orange, blueberry,
pepper, ginger, chilli, rose petal etc etc
ad infinitum.
The beauty of vodka is akin to that of a
model, it is a palette to which anything
can be added to make it beautiful . For
Bite that means ‘Cocktails a-go-go!’
I would recommend a trip down to this
vodka emporium followed by some
home-based mixology – try the recipe
here to get you started. (S.Wilson)
Deli Polonia
– 235-241 LeithWalk,
Edinburgh EH6 8NY
– 0131 555 1281
Opening hours
Mon to Fri 9am-8pm
Sat 9am-6pm and Sunday 10am-6pm.
Apple & Elderflower
Martini
Glass: Cocktail
Garnish: Slice of apple
1 shot Zubrowka Bison Polish vodka
1 shot Luksusowa Polish vodka
1 shot apple juice
tsp elderflower cordial
Pour all ingredients into a
cocktail shaker. Shake
vigorously for ten seconds
and double strain.
19
Beer:
BrewDog, Aberdeen
W
hat images spring to mind when
the words “Real Ale” are
mentioned? Beards, beer bellies
and tucked-in t-shirts? Possibly. But the
reputation of real ale and artisan beer is
changing. Younger, less hairy people are
beginning to enjoy tasting their beer and noone wants to celebrate this more than the
local entrepreneur alchemists behind
BrewDog. Their first bar has recently opened
in Aberdeen and they are set to open a
second in Edinburgh this spring.
BrewDog Aberdeen can be busy at the
weekend but on this cold Thursday evening
my friend and I were served immediately and
had a couple of empty tables to choose
from. Behind the bar are a handful of the
signature beers on draught plus two or three
guest draughts which change regularly. The
more exotic beers are in bottles and the
overwhelming choice includes many more
BrewDog tipples and international guest
beers. And the staff here are such an
enthusiastic and knowledgeable bunch that
you almost invite them over for a drink
before remembering that that might be
inappropriate!
I decided my first would be a pint of their 77
Lager (4.9%). This beer retains all the best
qualities of pilsner in its refreshing lightness
whilst packing in a hearty, malty punch. I
Beer with pedigree
followed this with a guest draught. “Hello,
My Name Is Ingrid” (8.2%) is a collaboration
between BrewDog and brewers called
Beersweden. It is a lager with sharp citrus
flavours and a dry hoppy finish. Finally, with
the conversation still on beer and general
beeriness, I sampled a third-pint of Tokyo.
Served as thirds because its ABV is an
immodest 18.2%! A lot happens during sips of
this stout. It is very fruity and sweet and,
coupled with its strength, it resembles a
sherry. However, the hops do eventually
appear to remind you that you are in fact
enjoying a beer.
With their first bar BrewDog have fortified
the ethos of the brand. Theirs is beer of high
quality to be sipped and savoured but also to
be adventurous with. BrewDog has
introduced artisan beer to a new, youthful
crowd with unique products and
unconventional business strategies. It’s ‘Beer
for Punks’ they say. Can a punk rock a beer
belly? I certainly hope so… (D. King)
BrewDog Aberdeen
– 17 Gallowgate, Aberdeen, AB25 1EB
– www.brewdog.com
Opening Hours
Tue – Sat 12 noon-12pm, Sun 12:30-midnight,
Mon 4pm–midnight.
20
Beer:
Serendipity
I
Italian beers come to Broughton Street
don’t have a copy to hand but the
chances are that in the directory at the
back of this magazine, the biggest entry
will be under Italian eateries. Decent pasta &
risotto is easy enough to come by in
Edinburgh, most Italian restaurants will have
an extensive menu and impressive wine list.
But even the very finest establishments will
only list one, or if you are very lucky, two
Italian beers.
Although the last decade has seen a
blossoming of microbreweries in the North of
Italy, they have been unavailable in the UK
until now. Thank heavens then for Mario
Gagliardini, who by the time you are reading
this should have taken the wraps off the new
Serendipity on the bottom of Broughton
Street. He is launching the new bar Serendipity,
which is situated underneath the Italian
restaurant Locanda de Gusti, this month and
has had the foresight to list as wide a selection
of interesting Italian craft beers as possible.
He was also good enough to slip us a few
bottles for “research” purposes.
Amarcord Volpina 6.5% abv
A lovely, honeyed amber-coloured beer, with
some slight effervescence and a rather
fleeting, insubstantial head. A sweet,
powerful nose of toffee and ginger, on top of
drier, spicier undertones of leather, shoe
polish and spice rack. The palate is rounded
and creamy with a big hit of aniseed & boiled
sweets and a definite suggestion of dried
apricots. The finish is long and rather dry in
comparison with a mild alcohol burn.
A good beer that does deliver on the palate,
but maybe lacks a bit of fluffiness and
texture, certainly when compared to the
21
It would sit very nicely with mildly spiced
dishes but is dry and crisp enough to drink as
an aperitif. I will definitely be coming back
for some more of this.
Birra del Borgo Re-Porter 5.2% abv
great Belgian ales it is aping. The brewery
rather vaguely suggests it would be great with
meat. I drank it with a haggis burrito and it
worked rather well, leading me to suspect
that dry, salty meat dishes would be best
Baladin Open IPA 7.5% abv
A very impressive imperial pale in the modern
US/Belgian style. It is very light in colour
with a nice Mr Whippy foamy head. The nose
is very expressive and green, with herbal
aromas of coriander, parsley and waxy orange
peel alongside cigar box and balsa wood. The
palate kicks in with a melange of citrus, from
tart, acidic lemons to juicy pink grapefruit.
The finish has great length with a waxy, oily
edge and a nice, slow crescendo of hopderived bitterness.
A very black beer;
good, solid, totally
opaque, Darth Vader
black, little head to
speak of and very flat.
The nose is reasonably
open with very dry
aromas of charcoal
and vulcanised rubber
alongside the more expected roasted malt
characters. The palate is quite mild and of
medium weight, it has a nice, creamy texture
not unlike an oatmeal stout. The finish is
short, simple and maybe a wee bit onedimensional. It is by no means a bad porter,
but I am afraid that it is outclassed by many
of our native Scottish stouts and porters.
It is quite hard to give a proper evaluation of
these beers without knowing at what price
they are to be retailed at, but in summary; one
good, one excellent and one so-so. If this is
representative of what Italian microbreweries
are capable of, then I can see myself doing
quite a bit more research on Broughton Street.
James Wrobel is proprietor of Cornelius
Wine & Beer on Easter Road. Serendipity
bar is located underneath Locanda De
Gusti at 7-11 East London Street.
22
M
Off the trolley:
Sugary strings and things
y passport is slowly gathering dust,
and the furthest afield I've been
this past year is Berwick-on-Tweed.
But that doesn't mean my dessert palate has
been suffering. While our PM might say that
multiculturalism has failed, in Edinburgh's
restaurants it's alive and well. I've always
believed in getting to know a culture through
its cakes, and so here are three places
currently making their mark in my culinary
passport.
While Chop Chop is renowned for dumplings,
it's their Sugar String Apple I want to praise.
Wedges of apple are rolled in sesame seeds
and served with a still-sizzling sugar syrup.
Dunk the hot, sticky pieces into a bowl of ice
water and devour, ideally with a scoop of
vanilla ice cream. This light, sweet, and uber
fun dessert is the perfect follow-up to a
dumpling over-indulgence – and well worth
saving a bit of room for!
– 248 Morrison St, EH3 8DT – closed
Mondays and 76 Commercial Quay EH6 6LX
– closed Tuesdays.
Winning the prize for most gorgeous cakes is
Patisserie Madeleine where all pastries are
made in-store daily and all are simply
beautiful. The must-try here are the caramel
macarons, although I'd happily sacrifice both
diet and figure to eat the entire shop.
Macarons are priced at a bargainous 85p
while the exquisite pastries will cost you
about £3. Certainly less than a trip to Paris,
but no less authentic.
– 127b Raeburn Place EH4 1HU – open
Tuesday-Sunday.
My absolute top find, though, is Russian
Passion. Open for only a few hours a day over
lunch (but will open in the evening for private
bookings),the cakes are all made with
traditional Russian recipes. Try the Kiev: an
incredible meringue-y, creamy, nutty,
chocolate concoction that is possibly the
greatest thing I've ever eaten. The honey cake
is the most traditional of the Russian desserts
served, and is so subtle and elegant in its
flavour that it must not be missed. Also
worth a sample - the Napoleon: creamy,
pastry layers served in little triangles, like
Napoleon's hat. Cakes can be ordered ahead
for a special occasion, or drop in and see
what's on offer. Try a slice (or three) with
Russian tea or coffee: in both cases, strong
brews drunk black with a slice of lemon.
Delicious.
– 5 Canonmills EH3 5HA – open daily 11-3.30.
Bon voyage, and bon appetit! (R. Edwards)
I've always believed in getting to know a culture through its
cakes, and so here are three places currently making their
mark in my culinary passport.
A
La Cerise
All about cake
lthough I love baking, sometimes a
whole cake is a bit of an over
indulgence; sneaking that third slice
in the hopes that no one notices, leaves me
feeling guilty. So what does a girl do if she
does cake? Simply pop into one of the
fabulous little patisseries scattered across
Edinburgh.
For me, I love the entremets (dainty little
fluff-like cakes) that the French do so well
and one of my favourite places that make
these delights is La Cerise in Leith.
When I worked in an office and it was
someone’s birthday, a box stuffed with cream
cakes from the local shop was dished out;
Martin Wilson and Claire (soon to be Mrs
Wilson) have a slightly more elegant slant on
this ritual. They will happily make up a platter
of little cakes and slices scattered with fruit,
chocolate curls and dollops of cream, more
impressive than a cardboard box of
manufactured pastries.
For that special occasion, Claire makes some
stunning wedding cakes that look traditional,
but inside you’ll find chocolate fudge, carrot
cake or whatever you fancy. Their turnaround
is swift, quality of ingredients paramount,
using tried and tested recipes, but what is
more important is she and Martin sit you
down to discuss what you want for your
celebration. “We find that our clients come in
with a preconception of what they think they
should have for their event. We explore ideas,
likes and dislikes and after a couple of hours
chatting, drinking coffee and eating cake, they
will have the foundation of a truly unique
cake.” But it doesn’t stop there, they’ve made
cakes entirely out of ice cream (Martin’s area
of expertise); requests for cakes in a
particular football team’s colours is
meticulously researched by Claire.
If you have any intolerances, they can make
you a magnificent cake taking your allergies
into account, so you can have your cake and
eat it too.
Orders can be taken (at least 24 hours notice)
over the phone, in person or via their
website. (L. Harris)
La Cerise
– 199 Great Junction Street, EH6 5LQ
– 0131 555 6065 – www.lacerise.biz
Opening hours
Mon-Fri 8am-6pm
23
24
Wine:
Vintage, Late Bottle Vintage, Crusted,
Tawny, Ruby, White...PORT!
T
he ‘World of Port’ dates back to the
1600s when the wines of Douro were,
politely said, a little on the rough side.
Popularity of Douro wines increased when
the access to French wines became
increasingly difficult during war time. British
demand for wine was the catalyst in creating
this wonderful drink.
Brandy was added to the barrels of sweet red
wine in order to preserve it during shipping.
The idea was to stop any further fermentation
in the barrels as there was residual sugar left
in the wine (adding alcohol to wine is one way
to arrest any further fermentation). The result
on receipt was a beautiful sweet “fortified”
wine. It is unclear when this process of adding
brandy to the wine started but it is still
employed today.
Styles of Port:
Vintage Port is the finest of all Ports.
Made in a single year, cask aged for two years
before bottling, never filtered, which will lead
to sediment. Heavy filtration can numb a
wine and remove a lot of its flavour. These
ports can age in the bottle for decades and
will need to be decanted before
consumption. Vintage ports are made only in
the finest years with each port house
declaring their vintages independently.
Late Bottle Vintage (LBV) are made
from wines of a single vintage aged in a cask
for up to six years, then bottled. They go
through a light filtration and can be drunk
immediately.
Crusted Ports are made from wines from
several vintages bottled without filtration.
They form sediment in the bottle and need
to be decanted.
Tawny Ports are a blend of wines from
several different aged casks. They are often a
lighter, brown colour and often possess nutty
and dried berry flavours. Most often they are
sold by the average age of the blend: 10, 20,
30 and sometimes 40 years old.
Ruby Port is the most basic style which has
been tank-aged instead of barrel-aged,
blended, filtered and then bottled. The best
are labelled Reserve or Vintage Character Port.
Most Port is made with red grapes with the
exception of White Port. It is made with
white grapes and is less sweet than red. Cask
aging gives it a golden hue and it is usually
served chilled as an aperitif.
Get out there and enjoy some port. Local
stockists will provide a wonderful arrangement
of unusual ports starting at around £10. Try
Henderson Wines or Appellation Wines.
(S. Ramsay, W’est Solutions)
W’est Solutions is a wine tasting /wine and
customer service training and consulting
company. If you would like to learn more
about W’est Solutions, log onto
www.westwinetasting.com
25
A
Gourmet Girl Goes To:
Lupe Pinto’s
s you may have noticed, there’s been
a bit of a flurry of activity on the
Mexican and Tex-Mex food front of
late. In London, Thomasina Miers’ Wahaca
restaurant chain is ever-expanding, offering
authentic Mexican street food, and here in
Edinburgh we have Los Cardos and Illegal
Jack’s making sure we ‘burghers have the best
burritos’. Long before any of these places
came on the scene, Lupe Pinto’s pitched up in
Tollcross, offering, amongst other things,
every type of chilli pepper they could get
their hands on.
It quickly became known as the place to buy
all the ingredients you needed for a real
Mexican dinner, and no commercial ‘fajita
kits’ in sight. Owner Doug Bell has an
impressive knowledge of chillies and the
shop carries around twenty types of whole
dried varieties in stock at any one time, as
well as various other canned and pickled
versions. They also have a huge selection of
‘La Preferida’ products such as re-fried and
pinto beans, and plenty of hot sauces and
tequilas to challenge los bravos!
But, it’s not just Mexican foodstuffs that Lupe
Pinto’s stock – wandering around the packed
shop is a bit like taking a round-the-world
food trip in five minutes, and in terms of
variety, this has to be the best of imports in
the city. They also have a huge selection of
Caribbean foods and spices. Jamaican jerk
chicken is gaining word-of-mouth here in the
All sorts of imports
UK; this dry-rub style of marinade is ideal for
the BBQ but can also be made in the oven.
Many family spice mix recipes are pretty
closely-guarded secrets. Thankfully, Lupe
Pinto’s stocks several types of seasoning, and
you’ll even find recipes using the shop’s
ingredients in their book. Published last year,
‘Half Canned Cooks’ includes an easysounding recipe for jerk chicken with gungo
peas and rice. The book also offers up some
interesting Spanish and Oriental dishes, again
using many of their specialist stocked items.
And lastly, for my indulgent (and nostalgic
Canadian) side; the North American section.
Here you’ll find root beer, Jell-O, toothrottingly sweet Skippy peanut butter, the
inimitable Welch’s grape jelly and lots of
candy. Hey, a girl can’t be gourmet all the time!
Leila Arfa writes
www.leilappetit.blogspot.com
Lupe Pinto’s
– 24 Leven Street, Edinburgh EH3 9LJ
– 0131 228 6241
More info and opening times at
www.lupepintos.com
26
P
Healthy Eating:
Get Sprouting!
aula from Real Foods answers some basic
questions from Bite.
What are sprouts?
Sprouts are young green plants germinated from
nuts, seeds, grains, beans, legumes and various
grasses. At Real Foods you can by a wide variety
including alfalfa seeds, amaranth seeds, mung
beans, aduki beans, soya beans, along with a
variety of grains that you can also cultivate to get
grasses for juicing, wheat being the most obvious.
Why sprout?
It is thought that sprouts are a nutritional ‘super
food’ as a sprout contains all the energy needed
to grow into a fully- fledged plant. They are
packed with vitamins, minerals, protein, enzymes
and fibre.
How to sprout
Sprouting is the process of soaking and
germinating the seed. The easiest way to do this is
to buy a sprouting kit and sprinkle water over the
seeds. Real Foods sell a wide range including a
wheat growing kit, large multi-level seed
sprouters down to simple glass jar sprouters for
those sprouting on a budget. Sprouting can also
be a fun thing to do with kids.
How can I use my sprouts?
Add to soups, salads, stir fries, sandwiches, add to
dips or use as garnishes. Get creative!
Real Food Shops
– 37 Broughton Street,
Edinburgh, EH1 3JU – 0131 557 1911
and 8 Brougham Street, Tollcross,
EH3 9JH – 0131 228 1201
Superfood Salad
– Serves 2
2 tbsp quinoa, 2 heads of broccoli cut
into florets, 120g fresh/frozen peas
simmered for 3-4 mins, 100g of feta
cheese cubed, 1/4 cucumber cut into
slim batons, 1 handful alfalfa sprouts, 2
tbsp of a mixture of lightly toasted
pumpkin, sesame and sunflower seeds,
1/2 avocado cut into pieces, 1 small
handful of chopped flat leaf parsley, 1
small handful of chopped mint, 2 tsp
freshly squeezed lemon juice, 4 tsp extra
virgin olive oil.
Method
1. Cover the quinoa with cold water in a
small pan, the water level to be a
couple of cm above the grain and let it
simmer gently until the water has
evaporated. This takes about 15mins
then let it cool down.
2. Steam the broccoli until slightly crunchy
3. In two bowls build your salad in layers,
broccoli, peas, cucumber, feta, alfalfa
sprouts, seeds, avocado, quinoa and
topped with the herbs. Dress the salad
with the lemon juice and oil just
before serving.
Sprouters can be ordered online
with free delivery at
www.realfoods.co.uk or just pop
into one of the shops
27
Whisky 101:
Bunnahabhain
(Boon a hav en) 18-year-old –
Islay, Inver House Distillers
W
hen you hear Islay you
immediately think Laphroaig
and Lagavulin. Unlike its
neighbours, Bunnahabhain is an
unpeated malt that sources its water
from the Margadale Spring. The water is
piped to the distillery in order to avoid
running it over the peaty, mossy land.
The peat does, however, seep through
and its influence is evident in the final
product.
The distillery is the most northerly of
the Islay distilleries and is apparently an
incredibly difficult island to navigate
around by boat. There are 250 recorded
boat wrecks in the area, one being a
trawler that is only a few hundred yards
away from the end of the pier.
Bunnahabhain was established in 1881.
Due to its remote location on the island
houses, it was necessary to build
schools, a pier and a road in addition to
the distillery. There was a hurricane that
did its best to destroy the area and
succeeded in blowing two large steam
boilers from Islay to Jura.
The distillery has been in the care of
The Edrington Group, who do their
utmost to take care of their malts.
The Review:
Bunnahabhain 18 year old
– Islay – 43% abv.
This sherry-matured malt is the extreme opposite of
its neighbours Laguvulin and Laphroig.
On the nose it is full of grains and cereals, warm
pastries, lightly salted butter. A hint of overripe fruit
with a hue of smoke. On the palate it is quite dry,
over ripe apple, pear sweetness. There again is a hint
of smoke and medicinal undertones.
You can find this wee gem at the Malt Whisky Shop
on the Royal Mile or if you don’t want to leave the
comfort of your home, you can order it online.
Approximately £58.95 per bottle.
Farewell! I am off to discover the wonders of whisky
for next month. (S.Ramsay, W’est Solutions)
Using professional and engaging
video, Flixity is the dynamic way
to promote your business online.
Visitors who view video online are 85%
more likely to buy
(Internet Retailer, April 2010)
For further information on how
to get a video made for your
business please email
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Well-established and well-loved salon with a
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about hair. Specialists in hair-cutting, colour,
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0131 556 9999
[email protected]
M
What’s in season:
29
Beetroot
arch is an odd month foodwise.
We’re coming towards the end of
the warming root veg and the
delicate, fresh, vibrant herbs and salad
leaves are just appearing – spring is arriving,
albeit slowly. I know beetroot isn’t to
everyone’s taste, but I love the earthy
sweetness that this vegetable has; it goes
with so many things from duck and game to
goats’ cheese and even in chocolate cake,
which is just fab.
As you know I’m not averse to a good
kitchen cheat and Little Doone’s (no they
are not sponsoring me) orange balsamic is
so perfect with this regal purple root or
you could use a balsamic glaze and add
orange to it. Anyway, I just had to put the
two together along with a creamy lactic
delight – Ragstone goats’ cheese. I know it’s
not local, but this time of year it’s a hard
beast to find in Scotland, but I do love the
combination. If you are pushed for time,
buy cooked beetroot and warm through
with the glaze. Toast some walnut bread,
place cheese on top, return to the grill for a
couple of minutes and serve with a side of
diced beetroot. For those who are not fans,
try coating carrots instead and serve with
duck or pork. (L. Harris)
What else is in my basket?
Baked Beetroot with Grilled
Goats’ Cheese
2 Small Beetroot per person
Little Doone orange balsamic
1 Slice of Chevre per person or 3 pieces
from a small log like Ragstone
2-3 Roughly crushed walnuts
Walnut oil – optional
Method
1. Pre-heat oven to 190oC/Gas 5.
2. Wash beetroot, dry then top and tail.
3. Wrap in foil and pop into the oven
for about 45-60 mins (depending on
size of beetroots) until they give
gently when squeezed.
4. Let the beetroots cool slightly, peel
and slice thinly.
5. Pour a couple of tablespoons of
orange balsamic into a bowl and dip
in the warm beetroot slices. Arrange
in overlapping slices on a plate.
6. Put goats’ cheese under a hot grill for
a couple of minutes until lightly
browned.
7. Place cheese on beetroot, scatter
with nuts and drizzle with walnut oil
if using.
8. Serve with crusty walnut bread.
Rabbit, sardines, wild salmon, spring greens,
sorrel, purple sprouting broccoli, forced rhubarb.
Listings
30
Restaurants
Bengali and Indian Dining
Ignite – Cuisine based on traditional recipes
from Bangladesh and Northern India in a
sumptuous setting. Dining at Ignite is an
experience capable of rekindling your passion
for Indian food. Open 7 days for lunch and
dinner. 272 Morrison Street, Haymarket
– 0131 228 5666 www.igniterestaurant.com
Lancers Brasserie – A sumptuous dining
experience in Stockbridge offering awardwinning Indian cuisine. Three dining rooms,
Lancers Mess, The Regiment Club & The
Officers Club, can cater for every desired
dining experience from an intimate dinner for
two, through to private dining and up to large
parties. Try the Chef's Selection from the A La
carte menu (£18.95) and the vegetarian and
non-vegetarian Thali (£22.95) and (£17.95)
respectively. Open for lunch and dinner.
5 Hamilton Place, Stockbridge, Edinburgh
EH3 5BA. Tel: 0131 332 3444 & 0131 332 9559.
www.lancersbrasserie.co.uk
Bistros and Brasseries
Bisque – Casual gourmet dining using locally
sourced food, served in a relaxed and
contemporary setting. The bright, airy brasserie
and sunny garden terrace are perfect for
breakfast, brunch, lunch and dinner, not to
mention a glass of wine from the well thought
out list. Open all day, every day. 69 Bruntsfield
Place – Bookings: 0131 622 8163 or
[email protected] www.bisquebar.co.uk
Browns – Spacious brasserie-style restaurant
with trademark quality service and bustling
atmosphere. Choose throughout the day from
a freshly prepared menu or enjoy a snack or
pre-dinner cocktail in the bar. Bar open daily
9am-10.30pm Sun, until midnight Mon-Thu, 1am
Fri and Sat; restaurant noon to 11pm daily
(10.30pm Sun). 131-133 George St
– 0131 225 4442.
Elbow – Eat... the freshest produce from
cakes to steaks. drink...grape to grain &
everything in between. Enjoy...the little things
that count. Open for breakfast at 11am. Live
music 1st Friday of every month. Pub Quiz
every Tuesday. Open mic every Sunday.
Upstairs space available for free hire.
133-135 East Claremont Street, Edinburgh, –
0131 556 5662 www.elbowedinburgh.co.uk
e.s.i. – Englishman, Scotsman and an Irishman!
Watch the chefs in the open kitchen create
your meal with fresh, homemade produce.
Diverse beer list ranging from Timothy Taylors
Landlord of Yorkshire, to James Boags of
Tasmania, whilst the bottle of wine on your
table could be award winning. Expect value for
money, a comfortable environment and an
enjoyable experience. 46 Queen Charlotte
Street, Leith – 0131 555 3103
[email protected] www. esibrasserie.com
Californian
Calistoga Central & Sideways Wines –
WINNERS of Speciality Restaurant of the Year.
Great food, great wine, wine sales, wine
tastings, whisky tastings all available at
Edinburgh’s Original Californian Restaurant
now based exclusively at 70 Rose St. Lane
Listings
313
North, Edinburgh EH2 3DX – 0131 225 1233.
www.Calistoga.co.uk
Ethical Eating
Urban Angel – Open daily for brunch, lunch
and dinner Urban Angel source the very best
organic, fair trade, local and free range produce
from across Scotland. A creative menu with a
host of daily specials. Home-made breads,
cakes and desserts and a reputation for the
best croissant and cakes in town. Numerous
local and national awards, ‘best breakfast in
Scotland’ The Observer Food Monthly Awards
and ‘best budget dining in Edinburgh’ The List
Food & Drink Guide. Enjoy with a clear
conscience in stylish and environmentally
aware surroundings. Private dining.
Open – 121 Hanover St, Mon-Sat
10am-10pm and Sun 10am-5pm
– 0131 225 6215;
1 Forth St, Mon-Sat 9am-10pm and
Sun 9am-5pm – 0131 556 6323.
Fillipino
Rice Terraces – Recently opened, Rice
Terraces is the only Filipino restaurant in
Scotland. Filipino chefs create authentic home
made dishes accompanied by a large selection
of Philippine beers and drinks. Open Tue-Fri
5pm-11pm; Weekends 10am-11pm.
93 St. Leonards Street, Edinburgh EH8 9QY,
– 0131 629 9877 – www.rice-terraces.com
Fish and Seafood
The Ship on The Shore – Seafood
Restaurant and Bar. Sustainable Scottish
seafood served with simplicity and style
complemented by a carefully chosen and
extensive wine and champagne list. Try the
fruits de mer for two or the oysters, both with
champagne. The Ship also serves lobster,
smoked salmon, mussels, crab, monkfish, bass
and much more. Seasonal specialities include
game and meat dishes. Outside seating. Food
served Mon-Sun noon-10pm.
24-26 The Shore – 0131 555 0409.
French
Café Marlayne – An absolute winner! Both
branches of this Edinburgh favourite have a
well deserved reputation for serving
consistently first rate cuisine that is fresh,
seasonal and skilfully cooked. The homemade
desserts are ‘to die for’. Open for lunch and
dinner.
13 Antigua Street – 0131 558 8244 and
76 Thistle Street – 0131 226 2230.
La Garrigue – Regional French Cuisine and
Terroir Wines from the Languedoc/ Roussillon.
A restaurant where “Chef/ proprietor Jean
Michel Gauffre brings warm Languedoc to your
plate” (Pete Irvine in Scotland The Best). This
restaurant is simple and stylish with the
relaxed ambience of a French bistro and it is a
firm favourite with locals and tourists alike.
Winner of the Good Food Guide Readers’
Restaurant of the Year 2010 (Scotland). Also
Gordon Ramsay's Best French Restaurant 2010.
Open 6 days for Lunch & Dinner, Closed
Sunday. 31 Jeffrey Street – 0131 557 3032
and 14 Eyre Place
– 0131 558 1608 www.lagarrigue.co.uk
Listings
32
La P’tite Folie – Informal, bustling bistro
with mixed clientèle. Favourites include
moules frites, steak frites, beef bourguignon,
duck, etc. Extensive wine list. 2 course lunch
£9.50, noon-3pm. Dinner a la carte 6-11pm.
Closed Sundays. Large groups catered for, set
dinner available.
9 Randolph Place – 0131 225 8678
61 Frederick Street – 0131 225 7983
Indian
Britannia Spice – This award-winning gem
of the Edinburgh dining scene is often referred
to as the best Indian restaurant in the Capital.
In fact it won the ‘Best in Britain’ Award three
years running! The menu is vast – Indian,
Bangladeshi, Nepali, Thai dishes are served and
the prices are reasonable. Conveniently
located in Leith near the Royal Yacht Britannia,
Ocean Terminal shopping centre and the
Scottish Executive, Britannia Spice is served by
frequent buses from the City centre. Open
Mon-Sat 12 noon-2pm; 5pm-11.45pm,
Sun 5pm-11.45pm
150 Commercial Street, Ocean Drive, Leith,
EH6 6LB. 0131 555 2255.
www.britanniaspice.co.uk
Suruchi and Suruchi Too – Indian Cuisine
at its best. Innovative cuisine from the major
culinary regions of India bought to Edinburgh
and skillfully prepared by master chefs.
14a Nicolson Street and
121 Constitution Street – 0131 556 6583
and 0131 554 3268 respectively.
[email protected] &
www.suruchirestaurant.com
Italian
Al Dente – Literally ‘on the tooth’ which is
typical of freshly cooked pasta and typical of
this authentic restaurant which serves ‘pure’
Italian food. The changing menu includes
dishes from Puglia to Tuscany and is
complemented by regionally themed nights
once a month. Food cooked with passion using
only the freshest, seasonal ingredients. Ideal
venues for corporate events private parties or
business lunches. Nominated for the Ethical
Good Food Awards 2009.
– 139 Easter Road, Edinburgh EH7 5QA
– 0131 652 1932 mob 07530516822
Kurdish and Middle Eastern
Hanam’s – Edinburgh’s only Kurdish & Middle
East restaurant proudly offers a wide variety of
authentic dishes served with complimentary
naan bread. Traditional costumes, music, decor
and speciality events throughout the year,
ensure the Hanam’s experience is really
something to shout about. Also Shisha Pipe
Balcony. Open 7 days from Midday-Late.
3 Johnston Terrace (nr the castle)
– 0131 225 1329 and online booking at
www.hanams.com
Polish
Pani Solinska – Fully licensed
restaurant/bistro serving the best traditional
and modern cuisine including classic dishes
such as Bigos and Perogi. Also serving light
meals, soup, sandwiches, tea, coffee and cakes.
Vodkas, beers and wines. Open for breakfast,
lunch and dinner.
73 Broughton St – 0131 557 6900.
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Scottish
The Forth Floor Restaurant, Bar &
Brasserie – The best in contemporary eating
and drinking & un-paralleled views from the
Castle to the Firth of Forth. Executive Chef
Stuart Muir uses fresh seasonal Scottish
produce to create food of the finest quality by
matching modern flavours with classical
techniques. Fresh, sustainable seafood available
from the Seafood Bar whilst the Brasserie
offers round the clock eating. Brasserie: MonSat 10am-10pm, Sun 11am-5pm; Restaurant:
lunch – Mon-Fri 12 noon-3pm, Sat & Sun 12
noon-3.30pm, dinner, Tues-Sat 6pm-10pm.
[email protected]
Book on line at www.harveynichols.com
– 30-34 St Andrew Square, Edinburgh,
EH2 2AD – 0131 524 8350
The New Bell Restaurant / Hellers
Kitchen – The New Bell is Scottish seasonal
cooking at its best using fresh, locally sourced
produce. They offer a relaxed dining
experience in informal surroundings. Serving
lunch & dinner every day 12noon - 2pm
(Sundays 12.30pm) and 5.30pm until late. Pretheatre menu available and large parties
welcome. See the website for special offers
and menus www.thenewbell.com
233 Causewayside (5 mins from the Meadows)
– 0131 668 2868.
Sister restaurant, Hellers Kitchen, is a bright,
modern bistro in the heart of the Southside.
Chef Richard Heller cooks up a storm in the
kitchen – from American style pancakes to
perfectly cooked steaks and daily changing
fresh fish dishes. For a quick bite, try one of
their special recipe stonebaked pizzas. Their
on-site bakery delivers the perfect midafternoon pick-me-up of cupcakes, scones and
delicious desserts. Open all day from 8.30am
(Sat 9am & Sun 10am). 15 Salisbury Place
– 0131 667 4654,
www.hellerskitchen.co.uk
A Room In The Town, A Room In
The West End, A Room In Leith
– Scottish bistro, BYOW optional.
Open for lunch and dinner.
In Town, 18 Howe Street – 0131 225 8204,
The West End, 26 William Street
– 0131 226 1036,
In Leith 1c Dock Place – 0131 554 7427.
Stac Polly – One of Edinburgh’s original
restaurants for authentic Scottish food and
atmosphere; now in its 21st year. Tasteful,
traditional décor such as stonewalls, Anta
furnishings and thistles combine with
flickering candles, crisp linen and twinkling
glasses to give a truly Scottish experience.
Expect a menu of exciting interpretations of
modern and traditional cuisine. Private rooms
available and outdoor facilities in Dublin St.
Open 7 days.
29-33 Dublin St – 0131 556 2231
8-10 Grindlay St – 0131 229 5405
38 St Mary’s St – 0131 557 5754
Spanish
Iggs and Barioja – Est. 1989, Iggs now
specialises in seafood. Lunch 2 courses £12.50,
pre-theatre available and dinner à la carte.
Barioja is a multiple award-winning restaurant
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serving paella and tapas. Great for parties. All
overseen by the ever charismatic Iggy.
15/19 Jeffrey St – 0131 557 8184 (restaurant)
0131 557 3622 (bar).
Tex Mex
Tex Mex – Donald Mavor, head chef and
proprietor brings the heart of Mexico to your
table, emphasising traditional Mexican food
with an authentic menu. Try the flaming fajitas
and the potent Margaritas ‘the best in town’.
Good fun, tasty food and very affordable.
64 Thistle Street – 0131 260 9699
www.texmex2.com
Thai
Thai Orchid – Award-winning authentic Thai
cuisine using the best locally sourced produce
and imported Thai spices.
3 course business lunch £7.95.
5a Johnston Terrace (top of the Royal mile)
– 0131 225 6633 www.thaiorchid.uk.com
Vegetarian
Henderson’s Restaurant and Bistro –
Delicious, wholesome food, using the best and
freshest of ingredients, all at reasonable prices
from Scotland’s legendary vegetarian restaurant,
family run since 1962. Special diets and food
intolerances catered for. Mon-Wed 8am-10pm;
Thu-Sat 8am-11pm; Sun Bistro open 12-8.30.
94 Hanover Street, Edinburgh EH2 1DR
– 0131 225 2131 and
23 Roseburn Terrace – 0131 337 4444
www.hendersonsofedinburgh.co.uk
Bars and Bar Food
Amicus Apple – Hardly a secret destination,
Kevin Spacey, the cast of Gossip Girl and top
premiership footballers have been clocked
enjoying an award-winning cocktail in recent
months. However, the food is the real find!
Whatever you fancy, leisurely lunches, languid
evenings or late nights, you are guaranteed a
great time. 17 Frederick Street, Edinburgh
– 0131 226 6055 [email protected]
The Basement Bar & Restaurant – Real
gem, with staff who have an interest in
providing unusual, quality drinks. A great
homegrown cocktail list, hand picked wines
from local suppliers, beers that you won’t find
in any high street bar and a dizzying range of
tequilas. perfect atmosphere to relax and lose
a few hours. 10a-12a Broughton Street
– 0131 557 0097 www.thebasement.org.uk
Boda Bar – A bohemian, cheeky, wee boozer
with a subtle Swedish twist. It is a cosy bar
with a strike of craziness. If you are unlucky
you can get to hear Abba more than once per
night. But since we love Spotify - you can
always ask if you have any special requests.
Since the owners love their wine, they have
decided to have nice wines at a good price so try out the wine list. You can also try Idun's a
new Elderflower Cider or maybe an OP
Andersson Aquavit (only you have to sing
before you drink it). Or what about our Craft
Guerilla nights -every last Wednesday of the
month. Check web for full event details. Open
Mon-Fri 2pm-1am, Sat noon-1am, Sun 1pmmidnight. 229 Leith Walk – 0131 553 5900
www.bodabar.com Free Wifi.
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Brewdog Bar – Enjoy a selection of the best
beers the world has to offer, in a laid back,
chilled out atmosphere. For more info see
www.brewdog.com, or facebook on Brewdog
Bar Edinburgh. 143-145 Cowgate, Edinburgh,
EH1 1JS.
The Canons’ Gait – A Real Ale/Gastro pub
in Edinburgh’s Old Town offering a selection of
Ales from Scottish micro breweries. This bar
has gained a reputation for it’s impressive bar
food. The menu includes traditional dishes
such as Crombies sausage and mash, fish ‘n’
chips, haggis etc, more ambitious daily specials
and outstanding desserts. All offer superb
value for money and always with the emphasis
on home made and seasonal produce. There is
also a large Cellar Bar available for free hire,
book early to avoid disappointment! Food
served: Mon-Sat noon-8pm. 232 Canongate,
High Street, Edinburgh, EH3 8DQ
– 0131 556 4481 – [email protected]
– www.canonsgait.com
The Espy – Esplanade Bar & Restaurant
overlooking Portobello beach known for its
wide range of menu options created with
quality produce and freshly prepared specials.
A new and comprehensive breakfast menu is
now being served from 9am to 1145am. Also
coffees & teas, delicious wines, cask ales, cold
beers, cocktails and freshly squeezed fruit
juices plus free wifi & live music too. Bright sea
views and cosy sofas, you can relax and watch
the world go by friends. 62-64 Bath Street,
Portobello, Edinburgh EH15 1HF
– 0131 669 0082 www.the-espy.com
Forth Floor Bar – For the finest bespoke
cocktails, wines and draught beers head to this
swanky cocktail bar with curvy banquettes,
chilled music and stunning views. Open from
noon every day, Tues-Sat til midnight. Food
served noon-7pm.
Harvey Nichols, St Andrews Square
– 0131 524 8350.
Guilty Lily – Caught between the
decadence of 1940’s burlesque and the
comfort of your local watering hole, Guilty Lily
welcomes and seats you on some of the
squishiest sofas in Leith. An extensive menu
that includes, homemade specials prepared
daily, fresh ground coffee and scones, fabulous
live music, funky cocktails, fine beers and ales,
fruity wines, free wifi and a huge big smile. We
are a family friendly café/restaurant and are
licensed for children. Café by day, bar and
venue by night. After the success of the
Esplanade in Portobello, Amanda decided to
share the love with the good people of Leith.
284 Bonnington Rd, – 0131 554 5824.
www.guiltylily.co.uk
Joseph Pearce – A large airy bar at the top
of Leith Walk. You can eat from 11am-9pm
daily. The menu changes seasonally, but always
include meatballs! Daytime we are more like a
cafe with a popular kidscorner for all ‘latte
mothers’. Free WiFi. Night-time busy bar with a
relaxed, cool, friendly crowd. Check out web
for all our crazy events www.bodabar.com
Open Sun-Thu 11am-12pm and Fri-Sat 11am-1am.
23 Elm Row – 0131 556 4140.
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Nobles – With this café bar and venue, the
Phoenix has risen from the flames. Since
reopening in April 2010 this classic Victoriana
bar has very quickly established a top
reputation as a classy watering hole, fine eatery
and live music hub. Nobles has a warm,
inviting, contemporary feel but with
traditional, bold, wood and stain glass heritage.
Food from the winter menu is locally sourced
and freshly prepared, weekend brunches are
superbly tasty. Music plays a large part in the
day to day life of Nobles and expect to see
top-drawer, original live music from Thursday
through the weekend after food service is
completed at 9pm. Throw in High speed wi-fi,
fresh fair-trade coffee, various organic loose
leaf teas and the experience is complete. Open
12pm-1am Monday to Sunday. Children
welcome. 44a Constitution Street, Leith,
Edinburgh eh6 6rs – 0131 629 7215
www.noblesbarleith.co.uk
Roseleaf Bar Café – A cosy wee bar cafe in
the heart ‘o’ Leith serving fresh juices, real ales,
homemade ginger beer, cracking coffee, loose
leaf teas & “Pot-Tails!”... cocktails in teapots! All
served up in Grannies finest bone china.
Wholesome brunchies, lunchies, din-dins &
munchies served from 10 till 10 everyday with
daily changing specials including Sunday roasts
& home baked cakes all made with luv! All
locally sourced, free range & organic where
possible cause it tastes really, really good! Free
WIFI, wheelchair & child friendly. Open from
10am-1am everyday. For bookings call
0131 476 5268 or email [email protected]
23-24 Sandport Place, Leith
www.roseleaf.co.uk
Sofi’s – is a chic, hip, upbeat and popular
little bar with many events, e.g Champagne
Sundays where champagne is offered at great
prices, film nights every Monday, Knitting on
Tuesdays and lots more. Our lighter snacks are
perfect with one of our many wines and we
also have a great new cocktail menu both
virgin and alcoholic. Mon-Fri 2pm-1am, Sat
noon-1am and Sun 1pm-midnight. 65
Henderson Street – 0131 555 7019
www.bodabar.com. Free WiFi.
The Earl of Marchmont – The Earl a
bustling, community-based hub has a
contemporary interior with generous outside
seating and beautiful lighting. On offer is an
extensive all day menu served by a welcoming
service from all the staff. Enjoy chilled Sunday
afternoons or a night out with friends and
family. Visit www.renroc.co.uk and follow link
for the Earl. 22 Marchmont Crescent,
Edinburgh – 0131 662 1877.
The Standard – Bar menu available all day
with a seasonal set menu changing daily.
Breakfasts available at weekends, Roasts
available every Sunday. Children welcome 'til
6pm. We also now have a new cocktail/wine
list available and excellent deals on spirits and
beers. Live sport shown in basement sports.
Function room available to hire. All this makes
this new town bar a must for foodies, locals,
sports fans and students. Sun-Thu 11am
midnight; Fri & Sat 11am-1am. Food served
noon-9pm. 24 Howe Street,
Edinburgh EH3 6TG – 0131 225 6490
www.thestandardbar.co.uk
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The Street – Lively night time hot spot with
an eclectic back bar, plus light bites & classic
pub grub served until 9pm daily, light bites
until midnight on weekdays, check out “orange
wendy’s” Wednesday Pub Quiz. Djs every Thus,
Fri, Sat. Open everyday from midday until 1am.
2 Picardy Place, EH1 3JT
– 0131 556 4272 www.thestreetbar.co.uk
The Waterline – A warm and inviting
Bar/Bistro with views over ‘The Water of Leith’.
Enjoy some of our fresh homemade food for
lunch, dinner or simply when you get the
nibbles as you relax by the cosy fire. Dine with
friends in our back restaurant area and choose
from our large selection of wine, spirits,
bottled beers & ales, or simply relax with a
coffee or fresh Suki Tea as you surf the free
WIFI. Live music every Saturday night and every
2nd Sunday afternoon or come along on a
Thursday night to join the popular pub quiz!
For more info contact Sonia and The Team at
58 The Shore, Leith – 0131 554 2425.
Victoria – If Scandinavian style equals
minimalistic Victoria doesn’t fit. It is colourful,
radiant and full of life. The crowd is a cool,
friendly and open-minded and there are a lots
of events e.g. singles nights, Eurovision party,
Come Dine with Me and what ever else that
pops up in our silly minds. We serve a lot of
different drinks: Beers from 30 different
countries and 12 different gins. Open: MonFri 2pm-1am, Sat noon-1am; Sun
1pm-midnight. Now also children licensed
from opening til 5pm.
265 Leith Walk – 0131 555 1638. Free WiFi.
www.bodabar.com
The White Horse – on the Canongate has
recently been re-opened by the Ross Brothers
of The Earl of Marchmont. The bar is an
institution on the Royal Mile where it has been
serving thirsty locals and tourists alike in
several different guises since 1742. Come along
for a glass of wine, pint, meal or simply a
coffee and a slice of cake. Great bar menu
available. The White Horse is also a free fringe
venue in the private stable room to the rear of
the building throughout the festival. Opening
times: Mon-Thur 12 noon-11pm, Fri & Sat 12
noon-12 pm, Sun 12 noon-11pm. 232 Canongate,
EH8 8DQ – 0131 556 4481
Cafés/Informal
Edinburgh Larder – A relaxed, bright and
welcoming environment with a delicious
selection of local, good quality food, using
organic / seasonal ingredients wherever
possible. Great coffee from Artisan roast,
fantastic teas from Eteaket, lovely home baking
and superb cakes. Fully licensed with tasty
local beer, wines from Friarwood and a
selection of Scottish spirits. Free WIFI,
wheelchair & child friendly. Open from 8am5pm Monday-Saturday and 9am-5pm Sunday.
15 Blackfriars Street EH1 1NB – 0131 5566 922
www.edinburghlarder.co.uk
Delicatessen
Deli Polonia – Offering the largest range of
Polish produce in Edinburgh. We have a variety
of fresh breads which are a combination of
sweet and sour dough (half wheat-half rye), the
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biggest range of fresh Polish Sausages and a
wide range of Polish beers and much much
more... All nationalities very welcome. Come in
and enjoy a coffee – www.delipolonia.com
235-7 Leith Walk, Edinburgh – 0131 555 1281.
Real Foods – is at the forefront of natural,
organic and vegetarian food retailing and is the
largest Scottish retailer of Organic, Fair trade,
Vegetarian and Special Diet foods. Opened in
Edinburgh in 1975, Real Foods was also the
capital’s first natural food shop. With over 30
years of trading, the shops have become an
integral part of the local community and
provide first rate customer service. Visit them
at - 37 Broughton Street, Edinburgh, EH1 3JU
– 0131 557 1911 or 8 Brougham Street, Tollcross,
EH3 9JH – 0131 228 1201 – or order online
www.realfoods.co.uk
Food and Wine Club
Bite Club – The gourmet food and wine club
associated with this fine magazine! Exclusive
invitations to bespoke events, discounts at
restaurants and bars, free tastings and more!
For more info please email us at
[email protected]
Wine Stores
Appellation Wines – This truly
independent wine shop and internet business
specialises in importing and selling wines that
you won’t find anywhere else in Edinburgh.
50% of stock is exclusive to Appellation Wines
in the UK. Staff are knowledgeable and
friendly. The shop stocks some great examples
from the classic wine regions, but also expect
something a little more leftfield too –
definitely one for the wine enthusiast. Also
international beers and you can buy a coffee
and/or cupcake. 43 Dalry Rd, Edinburgh EH11
2BU – 0131 202 0985
www.appellationwines.co.uk
Henderson Wines – Independent wine
merchant. Extensive range of wines,
champagnes, beers & spirits. Wines range from
pick ’n’ mix for £10 to bottles of £130.
Collectable spirits also. Home delivery. 109
Comiston Rd
– 0131 447 8580 and new shop now open at
23 Roseburn Terrace – 0131 337 4444.
Sideways Wine Store – Californian wine
specialist. Over 150 wines and beers available.
Free delivery in Edinburgh area. Buy direct from
www.Bottleshock.co.uk.
70 Rose St. Lane North, Edinburgh EH2 3DX –
0131 225 1233. www.Calistoga.co.uk
WoodWinters Wines & Whiskies –
Drinking wine is about pleasure and should be
fun whether you’re buying party wine sub £5 or
you’re a canny claret collector. Our shop
is…small; compact and bijou. We treat our
customers like wine-loving friends; pointing
them in the right direction and getting to know
what they like. And, when we know what you
like, we can deliver more of it! Regular tastings
and a wide range of organic and bio-dynamic
wines from small vineyards around the world.
91 Newington Rd, Edinburgh, EH9 1QW
– 0131 667 2760 www.woodwinters.com
Competitions
Win Afternoon Tea
for Two at The
Edinburgh Larder
The Edinburgh Larder is a deli and
licensed cafe on Blackfriars Street - just
off the Royal Mile. They specialise in a
wide range of Scottish produce,
sourcing as many local ingredients as
possible. Since opening one and a half
years ago they have won much praise
for their delicious food. They are now
serving Afternoon Teas for two which
include sandwiches, scones, jam and
butter, tea, coffee and chocolate
brownies – all home-made.
Win a Big Amigo Platter
for Two from El Barrio
El Barrio is a Latino themed restaurant & bar. Fresh,
local ingredients are used to create mouthwatering dishes bursting with Latino flavours. Try
quesadillas, Piri Piri wings, nachos, steaks, burgers,
many other dishes fresh from the grill, desserts
such as mojito sorbet or cocktails.
This month El Barrio is giving away a Big Amigo
Platter for Two to one lucky Bite reader. This is a
massive mixed grill of succulent meats consisting
of 4oz rib eye steaks, char-grilled chicken breasts,
marinated king prawn tails skewers & chorizo
sausages, served with crispy onion rings, stuffed
jalapeno peppers and white rice or Piri Piri fries.
The Edinburgh Larder is offering one
lucky Bite reader the chance to win
Afternoon Tea for Two.
To enter one or both of these competitions please send your name, address, contact details, dob
and occupation to [email protected] and we will pick a winner. Enjoy!
Please note: your data may be passed on and may be used for further promotions.
The closing date for entries is March 25th
SPRING PRIX FIXE MENU AT
THE FORTH FLOOR BRASSERIE
To celebrate the long awaited
arrival of spring the Forth Floor Brasserie
is offering a prix fixe menu showcasing
the very best produce of the season.
Two courses £14.50, three courses £17.50
Available for lunch and dinner.
To make a reservation, please
contact Forth Floor Reservations
on 0131 524 8350 or book
online at www.harveynichols.com