Rita oRa - Fashionline Magazine
Transcription
Rita oRa - Fashionline Magazine
Issue no. 089 Rita or a Blonde ambition Fashion zandra rhodes Trends the olympics effect fashion • tr avel • inspir ation • music BEHIND THE SCENE S Through the Lens Backstage Each month, Fashionline explores a photographic theme. Our September issue views the world of behind-the-scene imagery. By Fiona Keating BEHIND THE SCENE S BEHIND THE SCENE S BEHIND THE SCENE S T hese stunning shots are the work of Jaime Travezan, who was asked by designer Ade Bakare to create some images which were in a relaxed, fly-on-the-wall backstage setting. Ade Bakare graduated from Manchester University College. He then began to work at the fashion houses of Victor Edelstein and Christian Stambolian. He has sold his collections to London boutiques such as Chic in Hampstead and Lucienne Phillips in Knightsbridge. jaimetravezan.com adebakare.com C AT WALK Striking looks In the cut throat industry that is modelling, standing out from the crowd is easier said than done. Strike Model Management reveals the reality about the world of fashion. By ZOHRA MOLEDINA f rom a dining table in Beckenham to a professional studio in the heart of central London, cousins, friends and co-workers Lisa and Symon have built Strike Model Management from the ground up. With 80 models on their books, the pair are dedicated to success while they conquer their ranking in the modelling agency industry. “We scout for girls anywhere really,” says Lisa Brannan Owner and Director of the agency. “I’ve scouted girls from festivals, Sainsbury’s, the street. I even spotted a girl this morning as I got off the tube,” she says. Lisa immediately gives off that down-to-earth kind of manager feel, a rare find in such a competitive industry. “There are occasions when you think ‘wow’ when someone walks in the room and you immediately know that they are going to be a success. The way it usually works is we have walks-ins, so models that want to be signed. “We usually take a look at their portfolios and any work they’ve done in the past and I like to get a feel for their personalities as well. We send them for test shoots out of which we usually get two or three good shots. These are sent off to clients who then get in touch when and if they want to use one of our models.” The scary attitude usually associated with agencies was assuaged by Lisa’s hospitality and the way she described the models as ‘hers’ in an almost nurturing and maternal way. As we talked, a male model interested in being signed had his head shots taken on the other side of the room. The photographer was consciously doing her best to make him feel relaxed and it seemed positivity and friendliness was an attribute carried by everyone in the team, not just Lisa. “We are a smaller agency but we are getting a lot more clients now. I think that has a lot to do with our location, we moved from Beckenham to Brixton to Oxford Circus C AT WALK Craig Hills C AT WALK Ivane Grondin and we’ve been here about a year and in that time our reputation as rocketed and we find clients are coming to us rather than us going to them,” Lisa continued. “I guess our speciality is that we are a smaller agency that don’t take on hundreds of models and we are like a small family, we are welcoming and not pretentious,” adds Symon Brannan Head Booker and Co-Owner. “We really look after them and have relationships with them,” Lisa says. “They aren’t just a number to us.” The ‘wall’ which essentially is a visual look book of everyone they work with. Faces and names on cards – a model’s business card, if you like. Each face had a unique look, different but somehow fascinating in their own way. “We don’t like taking on two models that look the same because then I wouldn’t know which one I should send out for a job. Also if I have someone on my books that isn’t getting work then I will sit down and explain to them that they aren’t getting work and that I am going to have to let them go,” explains Lisa. The male to female ratio is exactly the same, 40 girls and 40 boys. The girls do a little better because right now the clients want 5”10 to 5”11 girls but this usually changes with the weather Symon explains. “There was a phase where they wanted Asian and Chinese men, then they started asking for short guys with beards and then tall guys with long hair but no beards. It changes a lot with the season and with the client.” On some occasions this has meant scouting for a particular look because the client has been so specific and on others it means sending a range of models for them to choose from. Naturally the issue of weight did come up and Lisa has a nononsense approach. “I believe if a model is thin she should Kasia Bober be healthily skinny. We have a male model that I refuse to work with because he’s too skinny. I have a nutritionist as well whom I refer models to if I feel anybody needs guidance. I would never push anybody into anything.” “We have come across a few pushy mothers,” Symon laughs and adopts a look of despair as she explains that dealing with mothers is something she has had to tackle. “We do take on girls that are 15 but we don’t send them out until they are 16. We work on their portfolios and around their Eddie Cooke C AT WALK Deandra Brangman Getting the skinny I spoke to Ivane Giondin and Bina Balstrup, two of Strike’s models. Both are tall and slender in build. Ivane is olive skinned, with youth oozing off her tiny frame and Nina pale with piercing eyes. The two gave me the ins and outs of what modelling really entails. After a quick fifteen minute chat with them – here’s what I have found out: • Models eat A LOT! • The modelling industry is not as glamorous as everyone thinks; they don’t live in mansions and have people waiting on them hand and foot. • Some of our best photographs are from shoots that have taken place in Kitchens. • Most models are broke as hell. • A final tip from the two was not to take things too seriously, eat properly and be confident because if you aren’t going to love yourself – the client won’t either. Nina Balstrup schooling. I have had a recent pushy mum whose daughter didn’t have the right look but I don’t believe in sitting down a 15-year old and telling them this because it can affect their confidence. I usually explain that a more commercial agency might be better suited to them.” Looking around their office, it is clear that the ladies have put a lot of hard work into making their business what it is. Lisa worked as a visual fashion stylist for Prada for eight years and built Strike from re-connecting with her endless list of contacts, creating a website, arranging castings all alongside Symon’s countless days of cold calling to build up a clientele base. “I guess the industry is cut throat, we want to be a respected company. There are some clients that only work with larger agencies but we are small and exclusive and show respect, so expect the same in return,” says Symon. Their exclusivity doesn’t stop at your average skinny 5”11 slender build either. “We have a couple of plus-size girls that I am happy to represent. One of our clients at the moment like the voluptuous-looking girl, so if I know I can get work for them then I am happy to sign them,” says Lisa. Their hard work has more then definitely paid off as they wait to sign contracts with Topshop and Boohoo in addition to their contracts with Vivien Westwood, Lyle and Scott and Urban Outfitters. CELEBRIT Y FA SHION Singer-songwriter Kate Nash says her style inspiration comes from punk, Camden, 50s icons and movies. Looks like we can add cute daisies to the list. CELEBRIT Y FA SHION Style Queens Photo: Christopher Dadey In the glare of paparazzi and on the red carpets of the world, celebs need to wow their fans and win over new admirers. Do these fashion plates hit the mark? Only you can decide... Photo by Mike Coppola/Getty Images CELEBRIT Y FA SHION An elfin blonde crop shows off the fresh face of actress Jenna Elfman at the after show party for the fifth and Final Season of Damages after party at The Oak Room, NYC. English singer-songwriter Anna Calvi chose a tailored white shirt and formal black jacket for her appearance at the new G-Star flagship store in Cannes. White’s alright on the night for actress Rose Byrne at The DirecTV Premiere event for the fifth and Final Season of Damages in New York City. Photo by Mike Coppola/Getty Images for DirecTV Photo by Andreas Rentz/Getty Images Georgia May Jagger wears a black-andwhite polka dot shirt on her visit to Rimmel’s Ashford Factory, checking out all her favourite makeup products. Photo by Jason Kempin/Getty Images for The Breast Cancer Research Foundation CELEBRIT Y FA SHION Actress Elizabeth Hurley and Evelyn Lauder at The Breast Cancer Research Foundation at Bloomingdale’s 59th Street Store. Hurley matched her gold shoes with a scarlet evening dress. Kelly Brook sparkled in Van Cleef & Arpels at the Crazy Horse photo-call at The National Theatre. She chose Van Cleef & Arpels jewels, Snowflake earrings and bracelet, platinum and round diamonds. Photo: Kelly Brook - Van Cleef & Arpels © Photo By Mike Marsland Getty Images CELEBRIT Y FA SHION CELEBRIT Y FA SHION Photo By Stefanie Keenan Getty Images Australian beauty Cate Blanchett wore Van Cleef & Arpels At The 19th Annual ELLE Women In Los Angeles. She also sparkled with a bracelet of cabochon emeralds with round diamonds in yellow gold, 1983 and earrings “Cactie” set in yellow gold 1962. GAD GET S DREAM MACHINES Combining form and function, these beauties are all small and beautifully formed, says Fiona Keating W here would we be without our little gadgets and gizmos? Over 61% of the nation now own and electronic gadget, according to a poll by Endsleigh Insurance, with the laptop currently the public’s favourite device. According to the survey, we value gadgets ahead of our own lives, with office workers twice as likely to insure their precious electronic devices than take out life insurance. Over the past decade, tablets have become a fact of life for many of us, containing music, personal information, photos and contacts. The market is rife with many types of electronic tablets which are not only very useful but also must-have items of style and design. Here’s our pick of the most highly desirable products on the market. KOBO VOX This little beauty is a colour WiFi eReader that brings books to life with a multimedia touch screen. At just £149.99, the Kobo Vox has a 7-inch anti-glare screen making it easy to read in all lights – including outdoor reading. Its colour screen, video and audio technology not only enhance eBook images and illustrations but make it great for listening to music, playing games and watching videos. As the only official eReading partner to Facebook, Kobo has also equipped the Vox with a host of social media tools. Kobo Pulse connects users reading the same book. So, book reviews, comments and conversations can be shared in real-time with others on Facebook, Twitter or within the book itself. Available from WHSmith. GAD GET S THE SPINNAKER Music lovers will be drooling over this sound system. Standing 15 inches tall, the abstract shape is designed to be visually striking as well as a facilitator to enhance the audio performance. The shape projects sound towards the listener with a 19mm silk domed and front facing tweeter. The Spinnaker is Bluetooth enabled, allowing audio connectivity to any Bluetooth device. Price £329.99 and available from the Apple Online Store, Currys and Comet. CAMILEO CLIP One of the most fun gadgets, this tiny full HD camcorder which can attach easily to clothing, helmets or handlebars. It’s a useful video camera for festival goers, allowing them the freedom to dance the night away and whilst keeping their hands free. It’s also perfect for any extreme sports lovers too. It offers a rugged, weatherproof case, 5x digital zoom and a simple one touch operation. Available in two colours, red and blue, it’s priced at £89.99. VERTU CONSTELLATION CANDY The collection from Frost of London comprises three colours, the Candy Raspberry, the Candy Mint Green, and finally, the Candy Tangerine, and they all come adorned with alligator skin and natural gem stones. All fashionistas who splash the cash for one of these exquisite mobiles will also get invitations to the most influential Fashion Week shows. GADGETS TOM TOM We’d be lost without it. How on earth did we find our way round without the SatNav? The new version, TomTom Via 130 and 135, featuring a new Speak & Go function. Drivers can control the device with just the sound of their voice, as well as making hands-free calls, which helps keep hands on the wheel and focus on the road. Speak & Go recognises over 1,000 commands and their synonyms, so drivers can talk naturally and input addresses with ease. Plus, the TomTom Via 130 takes safe and simple driving one step further, with hands-free calling viaBluetooth enabling drivers to make and answer calls safely in the car. The TomTom Via 130 (with a 4.3 screen) is now available for purchase, priced at £129 for the UK/Republic of Ireland map and £149 for European maps. Available from Halfords. TV TIMES The Polaroid 42ins Full HD LCD Passive 3D TV is a featured packed TV that enables you to enjoy watching both 2D and 3D content in high definition. The Full HD tuner provides superb colours and sharp picture quality and with integrated digital Freeview as standard you can view more channels, listen to more radio stations and receive interactive services. Available from Asda for £399. TABLET The best thing about the Asus Transformer Pad TF300T is its incredible battery life, which will keep you on the go for with up to 10 hours of battery life or 15 hours through the dock, meaning you can get an excellent amount of use before having to recharge. The sound’s pretty good, too. The speakers have clear sound focusing on the highest of highs and the deepest of bass. Available from Currys, price £399.99. GADGETS THE CROSSKASE SOLAR 15 This backpack is for anyone who loves their essential gadgets and wants to make sure they don’t run out of charge whilst away from home. The sturdy Solar 15 features built-in solar panels to allow users to fully charge their handheld devices quickly and conveniently whilst on the move – including phones, cameras, GPS, pocket gaming consoles, e-readers and music devices. Priced at £139.99 it is available now from www.crosskase.com, Apple and Amazon.co.uk ORAL-B TRIZONE PORTABLE ENTERTAINMENT If you’re looking for a unique crowd pleaser, try the MYTV2GO from Haupage. The easy to use digital wireless TV receiver is designed so you can watch or record TV on your iPad, iPod, iPhone, MAC or PC over a built in WiFi network which means you won’t be using your 3G data tariff either. Yes, that means you can watch your favourite programmes with cost free abandon with a quality that far outstrips conventional ways of mobile TV streaming applications. Not bad for 99.99. Developed after 7 years of clinical trials, this clever little gadget has been designed to look and feel like an ordinary manual brush – but with extra cleaning benefits of a power brush. It doesn’t matter which brushing style is used, the TriZone will still remove up to 100% more plaque than an ordinary manual toothbrush. The Power tip bristles are angled forward and sweep wide. Through wide sweeping, TriZone covers an area that is significantly wider than a regular manual brush, which ensures all areas can be cleaned - even far back in the mouth. Now, everybody say cheese… INSPIR ATION Swinging London Taking a trip down memory lane, Natasha Szymaniak explores a time when bright colours and swirly patterns ruled the world. The pop-art fashion of Mary Quant from 1965 INSPIR ATION “From the poodle skirts and embellished leathers of the rockers, the cool styling of the Mods, the high baroque of Psychedelia and the kitsch glamour of 1970s retro, this exhibition celebrates the time when British popular culture first captivated the world.” (Fashion and Textile Museum, 2012) T Harry Gordon’s “Eye” disposable dress, 1967. HE Fashion and Textile Museum could never be described as mundane or as “just another boring museum,” even from the outside. Its bright pink and orange exterior makes it stand out amongst other buildings on Bermondsey Street. Founded by the eccentric, neon haired, textile and print designer Zandra Rhodes, the museum has been at the forefront of contemporary fashion, textiles and jewellery in London since 2003. Alongside its exhibitions, it serves to promote the work of up-and-coming creative students and businesses and it always has something exciting for viewers to feast their eyes on. At the moment it’s the POP! exhibition, curated by Dennis Nothdruft. This 1970s fashion focused yet compact exhibition is well worth a visit. The show ‘POP! DESIGN • CULTURE • FASHION,’ showcases British quirkiness and ground-breaking inventiveness in fashion, music, art and print. It provides an introspective of all that is familiar and nostalgic, including: poodle skirts from the 50s, monochrome palettes from the 60s and white T-shirts. It also showcases icons such as James Dean, Mary Quant, The Beatles, Rolling Stones and Michael Caine. Finally, the exhibition ends in the 70s decade, where Elton’s platforms, piercings, Punk style and Vivienne Westwood give a grand finale to the attendees Nothdruft says, “The exhibition will provide new insight into twenty years of popular culture from one of the most comprehensive private collections of design and fashion.” It features items such as Donovan’s purple flares, Elton John’s personal wardrobe (high heels included), and some very risqué items from Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren’s “Sex and Seditionaries” collection. POP! showcases the changes in society, politics, and lifestyle through fashion, art and music. And it shows how prints became more than just pictures. Your trip down memory lane begins with the start of the Rock and Roll era of 1956-1959. On display are the cool and fun poodle skirts which feature music motifs and alcohol brands, giving subliminal advertising messages. Accessories with kitsch style and vibrant colour. INSPIR ATION These epitomised the beginning of the social revolution of the Youth. The kitsch clothing and accessories looked harmless but had a much deeper meaning: by showing a little more than just a cheeky bit of ankle, they symbolised a sense of freedom from the depression of war. 1955 saw James Dean’s legendary performance in Rebel Without A Cause, that left teenage girls falling at his feet and boys trying to recreate that perfectly gelled, quaffed hair, going out to buy the ice white T-shirts and faux leather jackets the actor wore. The exhibition is steeped in British nostalgia, the Mods and the Rockers, Heinz Tomato Soup, Mary Quant’s “Bazaar” collection and Union Jack themed items. Large companies promoted their companies through their memorabilia. Mary Quant had her own line of makeup while Heinz had their home collection. At the exhibition, one can sense that this was a time when people were proud to be British. On show, there are some great items from Mary Quant’s collection including her cosmetics and a lipstick style radio complete with lipstick style packaging. If you’re a Beatles fan then this is a great exhibition for you. Throughout the entire show, various items including vinyl duffle bags, posters, photographs and an original animation slide from the “Yellow Submarine” music video. The entire band had a strong influence on culture, fashion and politics through their time in the charts. The psychedelic glamour of the 70s. Early modernist piece from Mary Quant, 1970. From a fashion perspective, it is clear to see how some trends have almost gone full circle and have influenced designers of today’s collections. The 1963 Après Ski Poncho designed by Picasso is an item you can imagine a modern day fashionista wearing whilst trotting down Kensington. Especially teamed with a pair of leather trousers and some Chelsea-heeled boots. Very Ab Fab! However, my favourite pieces in the whole gallery were not Twiggy’s collection of eyelashes, tights and makeup, or the Union Jack-style dinner jacket (which Geri Halliwell’s dad would be proud to wear). My favourite items were the strawberryprint T-shirt designed by John and Molly Dove for the Wonderwork Shop. The cute and delectable long sleeved top even comes complete with Swarovski rhinestones. It’s to die for! My other favourites include the “Fry Up” themed long sleeved T-shirt for Marshall Lester designed INSPIR ATION by Pamela Motown. You just can’t dislike the fun, foodfilled tackiness that makes this top just brilliant. Teamed with a pair of skinny jeans and a simple pair of pumps, this would still make a great weekend outfit. The show provides a sense of innovation, creativity and most of all, rebellion, especially with the Punk era. It’s clear you’re in the belly of the beast when you make your way to Vivienne Westwood’s “Sex” collection, influenced by her lover and Sex Pistols’ Manager, Malcolm McLaren. This pushed fashion’s boundaries. Her bondage vest with bum flap for “Seditionaries” speaks volumes. There is no skirting around the point or having to delve deeper for the message. It’s all there! Before his death, McLaren was quoted saying “You couldn’t be respectful. We didn’t do it by accident, we did it by design. We were horrible by design.” Even by today’s depraved standards, this is still shocking. One of the most important and most memorable pieces of the Sex Collection was the “Anarchy is the UK” bondage shirt for “Seditionaries.” Made from a flimsy cheesecloth fabric with Jamie Reed’s iconic Union Jack graphic in the centre, it’s held together by safety pins and bulldog clips. The shirt was designed to quickly self destruct. The clothing designs could have been straight out of the stockrooms at Bedlam. As they were like a mental patient straight jacket, they evoked the feelings of paranoia and craziness. It was schizophrenic fashion. The exhibit would not be complete without the designs of the museum’s founder, Zandra Rhodes. The section of the exhibit named “Them: Art Brigade, Proto Post Modernism,” presents the group of Londonbased designers, artists and stylists that created an important strand of “Baroque Pop” in the 1970s (Rhodes included). The group was nicknamed “Them” by cultural columnist Peter York. Rhodes a textile and fashion designer became an integral part of British PostDenim waistcoat, crammed with Modern design. Her embellishments, 1971. The work of Peter Max, illustrator and designer, defined the look of the era. “Dinosaur” collection saw a more sculpted look than her usual collections, featuring a coat, knee length culottes and a “Halo” hat all in a thick, beige material with colourful appliqué flowers attached. In previous interviews Rhodes was quoted saying: “I made very advanced statements in 1969 and through the 70s, it’s almost like the statements I made in print…caught up with me and I have to stay on my toes. The future of fashion really has no boundaries.” Alongside Danny Boyles’ Olympic ceremony, POP! is a tourist’s dream guide to British innovation and creativity. This exhibition is an insightful slice of British popular culture and fashion history between 1950- 1976. Its shows the Brits without their ‘stiff upper lip’, this was rebellion through fashion and art. Fashion was not just about looking good, or what was in Vogue, it was a way of life. POP! DESIGN • CULTURE • FASHION runs until 27th October 2012 at the Fashion and Textile museum. Exhibition opening times: Tuesday–Saturday, 11am–6pm; Last admission 5.15pm. Ticket prices: £7 adults, £5 students and concessions, free entry for under 12s www.ftmlondon.org INTERIOR DE SIGN The shape of things to COME What is the future style of our homes? Fiona Keating picks out some designers who are destined to shine e VERYONE needs a helping hand and some young designers were fortunate enough to have a boost from 100% Design, the largest UK single-site design event which took place in September. The show has strengthened its commitment to international young designers with a special area called Emerging Brands at this year’s show. It’s difficult choosing from the many talented youngsters, but the most eyecatching were the wallpaper designs of Kirath Ghundoo, multi-disciplined design duo Plant & Moss, and environmentally intelligent furniture designer Julio Thomas with his range of product manufactured from cardboard tubes. Above: Arthur Analts Arthur’s work references his passion for urban cityscapes and street typography. Right: Kirath Ghundoo explores contrasts with pattern and colour in a distinct way, which has create an enticing brand of design. INTERIOR DE SIGN Kirath Ghundoo The surface pattern designer from County Durham, launched her first wallpaper collection ‘Mix ‘n’ Match 11’ at 100% Design, London, September 2011. Her wallpapers are sustainable and designed to be applied using a drop, cut, paste, and re-apply technique, limiting wastage and using as much off the roll as possible. Labelled as the ‘queen of pretty geometrics’, her signature design style is recognisable from the enticing blocks of colour, which add a bold statement to any interior space. Ghundoo says of her big break at the 100% Design show: “It’s where I launched my first collection and the exposure spring boarded me into the circuit.” INTERIOR DE SIGN Julio Thomas The designer has used cardboard tubes as the structural elements of his furniture design to create the Secco stool, Waynee bench and Seven chair. Form in Void furniture can be assembled, and dissembled by the user without glues or screws. An important factor in the design and functionality of the pieces are that they can be easily replaced without having to discard a whole product. All seating can stack to occupy as little floor space as possible when they are not in use. Thomas says: “I fervently hope that there are others out there who share a few of my ideas about ecology, sustainability and style.” Lorna Syson is best known for her bespoke manipulated textile work with three-dimensional wall flowers. Julio Thomas defines waste as “material without an assigned application.” Trett Design The design studio is based in the South East of England and their products are hand-crafted within seven miles of the design studio in Kent by skilled local craftsmen using the finest sustainable resourced timbers. The designs themselves are modern, elegant, charming and timeless. Solid black walnut is traditionally crafted to produce a collection of inspired pieces consisting of a table, coat stand, and chair. Lorna Syson Lorna Syson Textiles was established in 2009 with support from the Prince’s Trust. In 2010 Syson won the Shell Live Wire Grand Idea’s Award for her British hedgerow cushion using a fabric that combined wool and stinging nettles. Syson’s inspiration comes from the British countryside, especially in the Spring season which is reflected in her new collection; Dahlia Wallflower wallcovering, Manipulated leaf lampshade, and her Linear Fold nettles and wool cushion. Neil Trett’s ‘Time’ chair is crafted from American Black Walnut with contrasting colour features. INTERIOR DE SIGN Kiri Design Constanze Schweda’s curl tables are inspired by Kirigami, a variation of Origami whereby paper is cut and folded into a three-dimensional form. Founded in March this year, Constanze Schweda’s work often blurs the boundaries between design and fine art with her architectural background and strong sculptural approach. Her latest designs are the Curl tables that were launched at Salone in Milan this year. The design of Curl is inspired by Japanese paper art Kirigami whereby paper is cut and folded into a threedimensional shape. Made from a single, continuous sheet of steel, cut and drawn into shape, it is a sculpting process where each piece is created as a one-off. Niche London’s products can be contemporary or retro, bright or muted, wood or metal. Niche London Founder of Niche London, Graham Tulett is an established designer and was Head of Design for Avent baby products. Niche London is a young company established in 2011, and the company addresses the modern day functions of furniture in order to design both space saving and practical formations. Etienne Esmenjaud’s first creation was the ‘Mr & Mrs Birdee’ bird houses. INTERIOR DE SIGN Carlton Pezaro Based in Christchurch, New Zealand, Carlton Pezaro creates hand-crafted quality furniture. The sideboard and chest of drawers feature traditional inlays in geometrical and circular patterns and each item is constructed from solid timbers with white and oak mahogany inlaid with Swarovski crystal elements. Completely selftaught, he started his furniture making career creating unique one offs utilising original 1960’s pieces, which he turned into desirable items for today’s homes. Married to a second generation English antique dealer he holds the belief that furniture should be form, function and forever with less emphasis placed on transitional design. Kate Cronin’s company Klickity is a contemporary design studio specialising in home accessories and design led gifts. CONTACTS Kirath Ghundoo kirathghundoo.com Kiri Design kiridesign.com Lorna Syson lornasyson.co.uk Niche London nichelondon.com JiB design studio’s planter range has sunken top surfaces to store objects within the form of the furniture. Plant & Moss Plant & Moss is a creative design studio of contemporary furniture, lighting products and interiors. In 2008 James Plant was awarded the New Designers 100% Design Award and exhibited at 100% Futures. Following this, James Plant & James Moss went on to form Plant & Moss. Hand-crafted in Great Britain, their work is made using a mixture of time honoured skills and modern techniques. Amongst their top products are the Bistro Stacking Chair, Companion Stool, Arco Rod Wall Lamp, Akita Desk, and Clamp Lamp. Plant & Moss plantandmoss.com Trett Design www.trett-design.co.uk Carlton Pezaro carltonpezaro.com 100%Design 100percentdesign.co.uk 2012 was an exciting year for Plant & Moss, working with the British Embassy for the Olympics, new product launches, pop-up shops and window displays. MENS GRO OMING MEN’S GROOMING We all know that the male of the species is just as keen on looking good as the females. Angela Clerkin checks out some top products to keep the boys happy. Train like an Olympic champion Calling all Desperate Dans Bluebeard’s Revenge was named best shaving product of 2012 in coveted Lookmantastic awards. Designed by a real life ‘Blue Beard’ (a man who has to shave twice a day) who was bored to death with being a Desperate Dan look-alike. The range is paraben free and contains ingredients such as Decelerine to specifically combat tough stubble and reduce hair growth, as well as tackle common shaving problems like razor rash, burn, ingrowing hairs, lumps and bumps. www.bluebeards-revenge.co.uk Just for men Every budding sports player requires a kit to keep them fresh and confident on the sports field, in the gym or on the run. The grooming gurus at Jack Black bring you their team of hardworking grooming greats to give you that winning edge. Jack Black Turbo Wash has the fresh scent of rosemary and ecalyptus which open airways, loosens muscles and supports the immune system. Post-workout, it cleanses and reduces the build-up of lactic acid. Juniper Berry reduces toxins and aids post-workout recovery. Available from www.boots.com Favourite flag Sick of the sight of the Union Jack? Absolutely not. This beautifully designed body lotion set will keep patriotic fervour high in all good British bathrooms. www.crystalspring.co.uk Smooth moves Stylish and smart, we stock an enviable selection of traditional and contemporary shaving sets which will allow you to shave in comfort and style and will look great in your bathroom. The Edwin Jagger shaving sets makes a wonderful gift and will take the drudgery out of the daily shaving ritual. All from www.giftwrappedandgorgeous.co.uk Rowing/indoor rowing provides an effective, low impact workout that tones, strengthens and streamlines your body more than any other single exercise. Terry O’Neil (former Olympic Rowing Coach) has provided an exercise and training plan for those that are new to training, and also these tips: yy 20 minute bursts on the Concept2 indoor rower each day is better than three 40 minute stints at the gym - You can alter the settings on the rower depending on your personal goals and fitness levels. yy 20 minutes on a indoor rower provides a full body workout. You don’t have to be up at the crack of dawn to start training and you can participate in this fun activity indoors in your own time. Soothing away stress Help for the dreaded man flu is at hand. For those who suffer from sinus headaches or tension headaches, the Eyezone Massager massages 4 acupressure areas and helps relax your eyes, stimulate circulation and relieve the symptoms in just a couple of minutes. You’ll be back in action in no time. www.prezzybox.com Practical and pong-free Most men don’t like to smell of girly perfume, so here’s one that has absolutely no scent at all! And it works like a dream so you can lift your arms up high without worrying about offending the olfactory senses of your fellow tube passengers. www.crystalspring.co.uk yy Indoor rowing is successful in helping people to lose weight and tone up because it works every muscle group because its muscles that burn fat and calories in a low impact workout. http://concept2.co.uk Nature’s gift Natural Empathy offer a small but perfectly formed range of natural skin care especially for men. The range includes an ultra-effective moisturiser and after-shave conditioner and an all-in-one hair and body wash. The range is designed for busy men on the go, the body wash can be chucked into a sports bag and used at work, in the gym after a football match and at home, while the moisturiser soothes shaving burn and moisturises dry skin all in one. www.crystalspring.co.uk MUSE ZANDR A RHODES in the world of fashion, it’s hard to stand out from the crowd, but with her pink hair, bright colours and eye-popping designs, Zandra Rhodes just about manages it. On the day that I’m interviewing the designer, there’s a bit of a crisis going on behind the scenes. “Can you hang on a minute?” she asks me, before going off to sort out the problem. “Sorry about that,” she laughs. “But it’s never a dull moment!” That phrase could well be the clarion call for her career which spans over fifty years. Fearless and bold are her trademarks, so when her early textile designs were considered too outrageous by the conservative British fashion industry, Rhodes decided to make garments from her own fabrics. Thus creating the look that was not only startling in its originality but also became the inspiration for many of today’s new designers. Her advice for those wanting to get into the creative industries is simple: “Don’t give up. I should think it’s harder today. There’s more competition.” Perhaps it was easier when Rhodes started, but somehow I doubt it. Back in 1967 she opened her first shop, The Fulham Road Clothes Shop in London with Sylvia Ayton. A few years later, she set up on her own and took her collection to New York where it was championed by American Vogue. In the UK, Rhodes’ fame grew and she was given her own area in Fortnum and Mason, London. The Seventies were the glory years, and Rhodes was named Designer of the Year in 1972 and in 1974 was made Royal Designer for Industry. She has designed for clients as diverse as Textile designers a r e the Cinder ellas of the business w ho don’t get cr edit for w h at they do ABOVE: La Rhodes in the glory days of the 1980s. Photo: Robyn Beeche; make-up and hair: Yvonne Gold. RIGHT: Zandra Rhodes, Chancellor of the University of the Creative Arts (UCA). Photo: Gene Nocon. MUSE MUSE Artwork for Leila’s costume in Bizet’s Pearl Fishers. you are, at some point the establishment will come knocking on your door. In Rhodes case, it was the world of opera, which came calling. San Diego Opera invited the designer to create the costumes for the Magic Flute. She soon got an appetite for this On the box work and has Sarah Jessica Parker dressed up designed sets in a Zandra during an episode and costumes of Sex and the City. for Bizet’s Pearl Fishers. She has also worked with Houston Grand Opera on Egyptianinspired designs for Verdi’s ‘Aida’, which opened at the Punk-inspired white wedding dresss. English National Opera. Diana, Princess of Wales, Jackie Onassis, Elizabeth Taylor Rhodes has also devoted much of her time to and Freddie Mercury. She continues to clothe setting up the Fashion and Textile Museum and design the rich and famous around the in London, dedicated to showing the work world from royalty to rock stars including of fashion and textile designers. I ask HRH Princess Michael of Kent, Debbie her why she took up such a mammoth Harry, Bianca Jagger, Kylie Minogue, project. Practical as ever, she explains, Anastasia and Paris Hilton. “I found a building that would hold all And yet Rhodes remains sanguine about the clothes I’ve ever done, which is around celebrities who wear her clothes. It’s not 70 trunks. Plus, I could live there and do enough to look amazing in the clothes, my screenprinting as well as build the so my question as to who could really museum. Everything is all under show offer her clothes to maximum one roof. No one had taken any effect fell on deaf ears. “Someone notice of what I did and then once I’d like Freddie Mercury gets recorded set it up, the whole world started to look wearing them and it becomes an iconic at my work again.” picture. You can have other people who The designer is proud of the work that look wonderful but the luck of the draw happens at the London Bridge-based they are not photographed in them. If Kate museum, which is now part of Newham Middleton was to appear in something and College of Further Education and awarded it was a great picture, that would suddenly the status of National Skills Academy for be flashed around. This is the way the world Fashion, Textiles, and Jewellery. “They do lots operates. If it goes on YouTube and gets a of master classes, some of which I come to. We’ve million hits, you’re considered OK again!” had some really fantastic textile designers, It just goes to show that if you stay around Sketch for the opera Aida, with because I do say that textile designers are the long enough, not matter how outrageous African-inspired prints. MUSE A LIFE IN FASHION • Zandra Rhodes was born in Chatham, Kent, UK in 1940 • She was introduced to the world of fashion by her mother, a fitter for the Paris fashion House of Worth and later a lecturer at Medway College of Art. • Zandra studied at Medway College and then at The Royal College of Art in London. Her major area of study was printed textile design. • The designer was made a Commander of the British Empire in 1997 in recognition of her contribution to fashion and textiles • She has nine Honorary Doctorates and in May 2010 was installed as Chancellor of the University of the Creative Arts (UCA) The introduction of safety pins to haute couture. Cinderellas of the business who don’t get credit for what they do.” Today, she’s as busy as ever. “I like to think I’m just as enthusiastic now as I was when I started,” Rhodes tells me. “I’m working flat out, trying to do things which get the most visibility.” She launched a new range of handbags at the Pure London show in August, drawing inspiration from her past textile designs and adding an African/ Cubist twist. The collection includes a variety of styles including totes, clutches, wallets and makeup bags. There are various prints and patterns in bold tones with rose-gold clasps. She was also joined on stage by Vogue, where they presented key pieces from Zandra’s archive collections, showing her signature, prints, texture, colours and designs, and how these have influenced her current collection. She’s pretty chuffed with the collection, saying: “I’m really pleased with how they came out. You get to have a feel if customers like them, how they feel about them. I was actually on the stage answering questions. It’s a case of waiting to see how it actually goes. People like the shapes that we have, the seashell rucksack – that was a chic answer to the backpack. The oversized clutch was also rather nice.” Now in her seventies, Rhodes certainly hasn’t mellowed with age, and she doesn’t hold back with her opinion on the current economic recession. “The whole world is more serious. Things aren’t light any more. There are a lot of bankers cheating the world. We’re expected to keep going and they keep getting huge profits and yet the rest of the world has to take it. It hits you below the belt. It’s hideous.” At the various fashion shows around the world, Rhodes is in her element. “Everywhere has a different flavour. I had a show in Paris last season and I get lovely invitations from designers - Nichole Farhi, Matthew Williamson – he was one of my students.” And of course there is only one Zandra Rhodes. When I ask her the difference between fashion shows back when she started and today, she pauses before saying: “Maybe there aren’t many people like me around!” Opera designs for Aida. Zandra Rhodes Salon, 79 Bermondsey Street, London SE1 3XF, 020 7403 5333, Zandra.rhodes.com MUSIC MUSIC BLONDE AMBITION Currently at No 1 in the UK here the artist dubbed as the British Rihanna talks about her s-exy style, hanging out with Beyonce and Jay-Z, who is her boss, plus plans to crack the States... By Vicky Dearden MUSIC h OT new star Rita Ora was looking stunning in a tight rubber dress as she launched her latest single R.I.P in London. The 21-year-old from West London was at Asprey’s flagship store in Old Bond Street to celebrate the track, which also features rapper Tinie Tempah, making it to No 1 in the iTunes charts. It has since become a UK No 1. Rita has already hit the No 1 spot in the UK charts this year as a featured vocalist on DJ Fresh’s Hot Right Now. Although brought up in West London, Ora was actually born in Pristina, Yugoslavia - now present day Kosovo - and moved to England with her family when she was a baby. She has been dubbed Britain’s answer to Rihanna and about comparisons to the ‘Umbrella’ singer, to which her response was: “It’s better being compared to her than anyone else. She’s so hot and beautiful!” HOW WOULD YOU SUM UP YOUR STYLE? IS IT ALL YOU OR THE WORK OF STYLISTS? RITA: I can say that it’s all me and there’s no rules ladies! So I just feel like I just dress how I want to and whatever makes me feel comfortable really. SO HOW ARE YOU FEELING ABOUT THE ALBUM? RITA: This means more than just a single launch - this is a big, big deal for me and my family and everyone. This has been my dream. So to have it not only out but actually going to the top is just so special. And I’m so, so happy and thank you to everyone that has supported it. I’m just really, really, really happy. SO IT’S NO 1 ON ITUNES AND COULD BE THE FASTEST-SELLING RECORD OF THE YEAR? RITA: I know. I can’t believe it. I don’t know, I mean, I don’t know but Hot Right Now [her collaboration with DJ Fresh which went to No 1 in February] was really selling a lot so if I beat myself then that would be really cool! YOU’VE HAD AN AMAZING SUMMER you think you can buy it on iTunes?’ And he was like, ‘I’ll think about it.’ [laughs] TINIE TEMPAH HAS BEEN SAYING HOW INSPIRED HE WAS WORKING WITH YOU – IS THERE MORE MUSIC TO COME FROM YOU TWO? RITA: Oh I would love to. I would go in the studio with Tinie like after this event, it’s very natural for me and Tinie. To have him on the track was really, really organic and I would go in with him forever – definitely, definitely. AND AN AMAZING REST OF THIS YEAR, WORKING WITH CHRIS MARTIN AND THE COLDLAY BOYS – WHAT DID YOU EXPECT WITH THOSE GUYS? RITA: Well first I’m thinking, ‘How am I going to play all those arenas?’ Because they’re huge but I’m so excited. I’m happy to even be a part of it and it’s such a huge, huge opportunity. I’m going to have so much fun with it and definitely, definitely, put a show on. DO YOU GET INTIMIDATED WHEN YOU MEET PEOPLE THAT YOU LOOK UP TO IN THE INDUSTRY. HOW DOES IT FEEL WHEN YOU MEET THEM? RITA: It’s like really, really, really special to me because, you know, I’ve kind of met the people that I think are at the highest at their points. I’m really happy and honoured to be around people like Jay and B[eyonce] – so to me that’s like my idols. I don’t think it gets any higher than that in my eyes. So everyone else I’m really, really kind of happy to meet and I tend to be as calm as possible, do you know what I mean? So people don’t freak out. [laughs] HAVE YOU HAD ANY COMMUNICATION WITH JAY OR B ON GETTING NO 1 ON iTUNES? RITA: Oh of course, yes, he’s my boss so for him it’s as special as it is for me. It’s like a moment for all of us because we’ve all worked hard for this, for the album – it’s definitely a moment for all of us. WILL HE BUY YOU A NICE GIFT IF YOU GET THE UK NO 1? RITA: I mean I asked him to buy my single so I don’t know. [laughs] I was like, ‘Do SO CONQUERING AMERICA THIS YEAR? IS THAT ALSO THE PLAN? RITA: Yes definitely. I’m doing actually a promo out there as a well. How We Do is a single that is out over there as well. And it’s kind of doing really well. The radio is kind of killing it and playing it so I’m happy to be working double time but yes, that’s definitely a big, big, big plan for me. FINALLY, WHERE WOULD YOU LIKE TO BE AT THE END OF THIS YEAR? RITA: At the end of this year I would like to have my face on people’s shelves – just for them to buy my album. And to appreciate and love music just like I do. I’m a big, big fan of music so when I love something I tend to support it and I just love the fact that people want to support and come and have fun with my music and we can just all have fun together – that’s it really. JUDGEMENT CALL In May, Ora became a guest judge on the ninth series of The X Factor in the UK, with the auditions filmed at the O2 Arena, London. Whilst touring with Coldplay, she announced that her album would be named Ora.[27], Ora was released on August 27th 2012. MUSIC I DR ESS HOW I WA NT – THER E’S NO RULES, LA DIES! MUSIC Sweet MUSIC Did you know that Example worked in Australia for a year in the props departments of films such as Star Wars Episode III: Revenge of the Sith? He has also been a voiceover artist and editor for MTV Networks. harmony Ireland has produced some of the best rock bands, from Bono to the Dubliners. One of the best nights in music was held to celebrate Arthur’s Day. Danny O’Reilly of The Coronas, Irish rock heroes. They staved off stiff competition from U2 and Snow Patrol to win best album at the Meteor awards in Ireland for Tony Is An Ex-Con. Photo by Getty Images/Getty Images for Guinness MUSIC Photo by Getty Images/Getty Images for Guinness MUSIC wAS this the best music gig of the year? Thousands of fans would say it was as they rocked to Josh Osho’s first single Redemption Days artists such as Sir Tom Jones, Fatboy Slim, Mumford & Sons, became Record of the Week on BBC Radio Example and Tinie Tempah. The occasion was to celebrate 1, BBC Radio 2 and BBC Radio 1Xtra. Arthur’s Day, rejoicing in the legacy of Arthur Guinness, the Osho performed a surprise duet on stage with Sir Tom Jones at the Hammersmith man behind the iconic pint. Apollo, and they have also sung together This year saw headline acts in local pubs across Ireland, for BBC4 Sessions with the welsh legend. including Dublin, Cork and Belfast. The remarkable line up also included Primal Scream, Fun Lovin’ Criminals, Texas, Ellie Goulding, Amy McDonald, Fatboy Slim, Professor Green and Mika. In total there will were over 500 free Arthur’s Day music events around Ireland, each taking place in a local pub, across 32 different counties. Tinie Tempah said, “I played Arthur’s Day back in 2010 so I know all about the magic of it. I’m honoured to be invited back to Ireland for 2012 and couldn’t be more excited about playing a pub gig for a small, surprised crowd!” In the UK, Sir Tom Jones performed in London’s Senate Caroline Flack is co-hosting the 2012 House, alongside Brit songstress season Xtra Factor with Olly Murs. VV Brown, award winning Rumoured to have been romantically London rapper Wretch 32, and linked to Prince Harry in 2009, the TV indie rockers Razorlight. The presenter says that they’re “just friends.” Welsh legend said: “I have great memories from playing the first Arthur’s Day back in 2009. Bringing it to Great Britain for the first time is going to be just as exciting. I’m ready to rock London, like we rocked Dublin in the first year. I hope everyone’s ready to paint the town black!” This year the annual celebrations will take place in over 55 countries across the globe including Ireland, Spain, Italy, Germany, France, Caribbean nations, Malaysia, Indonesia, Australia, Japan, Singapore, South Korea and now, Great Britain. Johnny Borrell of Razorlight performs at Senate House as part of the annual Arthur’s Day celebrations on September 27, 2012 MUSIC MUSIC Mika is rumoured to have a vocal range of five octaves, but claims that it is actually closer to three and a half octaves. The Grace Kelly singer’s album Life in Cartoon Motion sold more than 5.6 million copies worldwide and helped Mika win a Brit Award-winning Best British Breakthrough act, and receive a Grammy Award nomination. Photo by Stuart Wilson/ImageNet for Guinness Keen runner Ellie Goulding keeps fit while on tour. In support of her second EP, Run Into the Light, she invited a small number of fans through her Facebook pages to run with her in seven different cities on her UK tour and has announced that she will be doing the same across Europe and the United States. Amy McDonald Scottish recording artist. Macdonald rose to fame in 2007 with her debut album, This Is the Life and its fourth single, which had the same name as the album. The single made it to number one in six different countries worldwide, and charted inside the top ten in another eleven countries worldwide. MUSIC MUSIC The Welsh legend Tom Jones has sold over 100 million records. He will be back for a second series as a judge on The Voice which airs in the spring. Photo by Getty Images/Getty Images for Guinness Patrick Chukwuemeka Okogwu, better known by his stage name as Tinie Tempah. He released his first mixtape in 2007; his first album, Disc-Overy, debuted at number one in the UK in October 2010 and was preceded by two British number-one singles. In February 2011, he won a Brit Award for Best British Breakthrough Act. Singer VV Brown has taken part in the Naomi Campbell charity fashion show at which she catwalked with the likes of models such as Tyson Beckford and Daisy Lowe. She has also modelled and performed at the Ashish fashion for London Fashion Week. The singer’s online vintage clothing store, called www.vvvintage.com, went live this year. ONCO UR SE London-based Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design has developed a reputation for pushing the boundaries of arts, design and performance. Warehouse for the arts Central St Martins College is considered one of the world’s leading creative institutions. Nancy Alsop considers its history and alumni. ONCO UR SE Central Saint Martins College of Arts & Design Library is situated on the 2nd & 3rd floor of the Granary Building. “SHE came from Greece, she had a thirst for knowledge. She studied sculpture at St Martins College – that’s where I caught her eye”… That Central St Martins College of Arts and Design should have been immortalized in so anthemic a fashion by the great Jarvis Cocker – one of the school’s many notable alumni – makes a certain sense. After all, arguably more than any other art school, it has long fostered a tradition of enquiry, bohemianism, boundary-breaking and been a veritable breeding ground for burgeoning talents. Its list of eminent graduates reads like a roll call of the great and occasionally the downright brilliant, ranging from the unexpected (Colin Firth, Dylan Jones, Pierce Brosnan, Simon Callow) to the super talented (Bruce McLean, Gilbert and George, Eduardo Paolozzi, Richard Long, Stella McCartney, Christopher Kane) to the utterly legendary (Alexander McQueen, Lucian Freud, Terence Conran). And so the list goes on. Central St Martins has existed under its current guise since 1989 when the Central School of Art and the Saint Martins School of Art merged, but its story dates back a century earlier. The former college had been established in 1896, when the London County Council saw fit to set up a school for the training of craft industry workers which, as a direct result of the Arts and Crafts movement as sponsored by Ruskin and William Morris, sought to have young talent nurtured by the established artists of the day. Meanwhile, the Saint Martins School of Art had been established in 1854, as a part of the parish of St Martins in the Fields, its initial intended purpose being – most practically - to provide a place for the instruction of apprentices. Pendant by Katie Jamieson. ONCO UR SE Star struck The Platform Theatre is part of the Central Saint Martins complex at King’s Cross and is equipped to a high professional standard, including a full flying tower and orchestra pit. The Platform Theatre is a receiving and producing theatre, hosting professional companies as well as student work from Drama Centre London and elsewhere in the University of the Arts. The theatre aims to present all aspects of the performing arts within a very flexible space. Ziegfeld by Caroline Kernick. It was not, though, until some years later that St Martins School would begin to become the hotbed of now-revered artistic innovation. As referenced by Jarvis, sculpture was the department that catalyzed its standing today as one of the most important art schools in the world; set up in the mid-1950s by Frank Martin, its tutors included the everbrilliant Anthony Caro, whose onus was not simply on aping the Renaissance marbles in all their glory, but rather to make serious enquiries into the medium’s advancements over the preceding century, and, of course, into its future. The beneficiaries of said teaching? The luminary likes of Isaac Witkin, Bill Tucker and Philip King. Since then, it has taken the Byam Shaw School of Art under its umbrella as well as the Drama Centre London, all of which are now in turn under the banner of the allencompassing University of the Arts London. Which goes some way to explaining the rationale behind its recent move of all departments – the schools of art, fashion and textiles, graphic and industrial design, drama and Byam Shaw – to a truly impressive new complex slap-bang in the middle King’s Cross, in all its glorious proximity to the hotbed of artistic talent that has in recent years come to define the now uber cool likes of Shoreditch, Hackney, Dalston and its warehouse-rich surrounds. Far from the warren of studios at its previous address, the new home for pursuit of the aesthetic (and otherwise) comprises two shiny new building hewn from – fittingly – a series of warehouses, which are celestially sky-lit from above. Originally built in 1851, the Granary Building is so called because – somewhat unambiguously – it was purpose built as a storehouse for the capital’s grain. One hundred and sixty years and £200m later, the grade IIlisted building – which still has all its original Victorian steel and brickwork – is instead sewing the seeds of this country’s future creatives and innovators. Behind the façade, the campus’ atrium is where the magic really begins; bridges carry artistic personages from the Inside out earrings by Katie Jamieson. ONCO UR SE The canteen is set in spacious surroundings, with original brick façade from the warehouses. Student Enrolment Week at St Martins, King’s Cross. central space to classrooms, workshops and studios on various levels. This ambitious regenerative programme (regenerative, that is, both for the school and for the area) was begun inauspiciously in 2008, just as the world’s global finances began to collapse, but happily – and somewhat miraculously in the world of grand-scale architecture came in on time and on budget to open its doors in 2011. As befits its grand new premises, the college opens up as a thoroughfare to the public, plus all are welcome to come and enjoy the myriad of cultural events staged by the creative types that roam the building’s architecturally spectacular surrounds; the public is welcomed at theatrical and art show staged in the space. For those seeking a taster of the Central Saint Martins brand of bohemianism, not to mention its famed teaching, there are plenty of short courses to try your hand at, which usefully take place at evenings and weekends: Graphic Design: Computers - Image and Layout Computers - Multimedia and Internet Graphic Design Illustration Portfolio Preparation Fashion: Computers for Fashion and Textiles Fashion Accessories Fashion Design Fashion Illustration Fashion Marketing Making Fashion Orientation Portfolio Preparation Textile Design Fine Art: Art History, Criticism and Curating Drawing Life Study Painting Portfolio Preparation Printmaking and Book Arts Sculpture Interdisciplinary: Business Skills Creative Process Creative writing Journalism Media Arts: Animation Film and video Photography Scriptwriting and storyboarding Theatre and performance: Performance Theatre and television design Three dimensional design Architecture, interior and spatial design Ceramics Jewellery and metal work Product design and development Each of these disciplines is then broken down into much more specific sub-sections, allowing those who enroll the breadth to choose a course that is very specific and thus feeds into a particular skill set, or a more comprehensive taster course for the generalist. And who knows, while there, you might just catch the eye of the next generation’s answer to Jarvis… To find out more about Central Saint Martins and how to book on to courses or to order a prospectus, visit csm.arts.ac.uk. SHOWC A SE SHOWC A SE Photographer: José Tió Make-up, hair: Junior Queirós with RITUALS cosmetics Model: Lisa Lima (Fleming models) SHOWC A SE SHOWC A SE SHOWC A SE SHOWC A SE SHOWC A SE SHOWC A SE SHOWC A SE SHOWC A SE Photographer: Marc JansÀ Fashion Stylist: Olivia Montardit Make-up, hair & nails: JÚnior QueirÓs with Jemma Kid Pro Make Up Model: Laurita Jasnauskaite at Uno Special thanks to Flash is Flash Studio Barcelona SHOWC A SE Pants and glasses by American Apparel Jersey by Isabel Marant Belt by Loewe Cap by Volcom Skins by Stylist SHOWC A SE Pants by Martin Lamothe Jersey by Twin-set Glasses by Oliver by Wilde Vintage Skins by Stylist SHOWC A SE Skirt by El Ganso Shirt by Stella McCartney Jacket by Max Mara Socks by Burlington Glasses by Wild Vintage Skins by Stylist SHOWC A SE Capeline by Bernhard Willhelm Short by American Apparel Belt by Lacoste Socks by Look for London Skins by Stylist Cap by Volcom SHOWC A SE SHOWC A SE Coat by Twin-Set Shirt by Lacoste Pants by Sandro Glasses by Wild Vintage SHOWC A SE Short by CÉline Coat by Tara Jarmon Body by American Apparel Belt by Loewe Skins by Stylist SHOWC A SE SHOWC A SE Till we meet again! Photographer: Farnaz K, http://www.farnazk.com Fashion Stylist: Patricia Bower, www.patriciabowerstyling.com Make-up Artist: Susan Donoghue, Ennis Inc Hair Stylist: Seiji Uehara, Ennis Inc Model: Yulia Panina, Q Model Management Photo Assistant: Hillary Cutter Vintage Fur Stole available at Couture du Jour. Ring and Bracelet by Chloe and Isabel, www.chloeandisabel.com, Vintage 1940’s black dress available at Couture du Jour. SHOWC A SE SHOWC A SE Stripe, fringe jacket and Metallic dress by Silver and Gold Fringe earrings by JoAnn Berman, www.joannberman.com, Chloe and Isabel, www.chloeandisabel.com, Silver and Gold fringe Earrings by Chloe and Isabel, www.chloeandisabel.com Stripe Jacket by JoAnn Berman, www.joannberman.com SHOWC A SE 1980’s vintage red leather blouse available at Couture du Jour. Turquoise blue skirt by JoAnn Berman, www.joannberman.com. SHOWC A SE Dress by Ivana Helsinki, available at www.internationalplayground.com, Gold chain link necklace by Chloe and Isabel, www.chloeandisabel.com SHOWC A SE SHOWC A SE Silver earrings by Caja Jewelry, www.cajajewelry.com, Polka dot dress by JoAnn Berman, www.joannberman.com Patchwork dress by JoAnn Berman, www.joannberman.com SHOWC A SE SHOWC A SE Silver earrings by Caja Jewelry, www.cajajewelry.com, Polka dot dress by JoAnn Berman, www.joannberman.com, Silver chain used as a bracelet by Chloe and Isabel,www.chloeandisabel.com, Black, Mary Jane Shoes with metal spikes by Jeffery Campbell available at Shoe Market, www.shoemarketnyc.com SHOWC A SE Silver, fringe earrings by Chloe and Isabel, www.chloeandisabel.com, Metallic dress by JoAnn Berman, www.joannberman.com SHOWC A SE Tribal Eyes Photographer: Raul Peix Fashion Stylist: Luis Gonzalo Martinez Make-up Artist & Manicure: Jessica Ruiz Model: Kim, 5th Avenue Model Management Foulard print animal by Zara Accesorios Gold Necklace by Blanco Accesorios SHOWC A SE SHOWC A SE Scarf print candenas by H&M. Rings by H&M. SHOWC A SE Feather earrings by H&M Gold bracelets by Natura SHOWC A SE Linen scarf bybi M69. Colour and wood bracelets by Blanco Accesorios, SHOWC A SE Tribal Scarf by Blanco Accesorios. Gold feather earring by H&M. SHOWC A SE Scarf print colors by Zara Accesorios. Necklace seeds by Vintage. Stones Rings Blanco by Paula Echevarria. SHOWC A SE Necklace with feathers and choker by Blanco Accesorios. SHOWC A SE Tribal Scarf Xdye by Pull & Bear. Bracelets and ring with stone by H&M. Gold bracelet and nacre by Blanco Accesorios. SP OTLIGHT “A nna is a gr eat a nd fa llible ch a r acter; in her you see the flaws, the heroics a nd the ter rify ing emotions.” Combining 19th-century elegance with 1950s shapes is effected with lace, off-the-shoulder and cinched-in waists. SP OTLIGHT From Russia with LOVE The latest movie version of Anna Karenina, starring Keira Knightley explodes onto the screen with sumptuous costumes and sets. Angela Clerkin discovers more about the 27-year old actress. I t’s the blockbuster film of the autumn that’s already hotly tipped for Oscar success. Anna Karenina is director Joe Wright’s vision of Leo Tolstoy’s epic doomed love story about a married woman who has a passionate affair with a younger man. Set in imperial Russian society during 1874, the film marks the third collaboration of the director with Keira Knightley, who plays the eponymous heroine of the movie. According to Knightley: “The story is one we understand today because people still want something they cannot have, still come up against social blocks and rules, and still have trouble communicating emotions to each other.” It’s an epic production filmed over the course of 12 weeks on 100 different sets, across 240 scenes. Wright wanted to take his version of Anna Karenina in a new direction, avoiding the stylised period movie. The result is a much more theatrical and visual feast. The immense 1870s Russian theatre location comes to life, with the theatre space hosting an ice rink, a ball, an opera, a massive society soirée and a horse race. The director decided that “the action would be taking place within a beautiful decaying theatre, which in itself would be omnipresent, a metaphor for Russian society of the time as it rotted from the inside.” The actors were immersed in Russian cultural life of the time through research presentations and discussions. Knightley took to the process, revealing, “I’ve always loved history – reading about it, playing it out on-screen – because I feel it takes me out of the present; I fall into a fantasy, which I love doing. “But this approach was such a very different concept for this piece, not doing a safe adaptation – and I was so excited. Joe called me into his office and had all these drawings up and explained it to me, and I thought, ‘Let’s go for it!’” Wright was confident that Knightley could take on the emotionally complex character and make it her own. He reflects, “We’ve grown up in our movie work together, really. She works so hard, with such attention to detail. Keira is an incredibly strong woman, and utterly fearless – qualities that I wanted to play up in this movie.” Producer Tim Webster states, “Joe and Keira bring out the best in each other. We knew this was going to be the most demanding role of her career, and that she could fully embrace the challenges of playing Anna.” Wright muses, “While in real life she is one of the most likable people you will ever meet, on-screen she is not afraid to court dislike if that’s what the character requires. I’m proud of her for what she’s done in our movie. She understands the darker places that some of us can go to, and that was definitely necessary for Anna.” Knightley read the novel anew as preparation, and found that her own feelings towards the character had evolved. She says, “I remembered the book as being just incredibly romantic with this extraordinary character. But in rereading the novel just before we started filming, I found it magnificent but also much, much darker – and realized that there is the huge question of whether Anna Karenina is a heroine or an anti-heroine. I believe that was so even for Tolstoy. My copy got heavily marked up, and Joe and I were constantly questioning ourselves about Anna; we SP OTLIGHT sets needed to be built from scratch. The overall inspiration was equal parts personal and aesthetic. Wright says, “I was raised in a theatrical environment, growing up around my parents’ Little Angel [Puppet Theatre] in Islington. I also have a keen interest in early cinema, which emerged from theatre at the beginning of the 20th century; the design of early cinema screens emulated the theatre proscenium arch.” The immense interior of the theatre set was built at Shepperton Studios – the same stage which had hosted the wartime hospital scenes of Atonement. The affair that shocked Russian society. Tolstoy’s novel centres around a married woman’s love for a The studio stayed open round-theyounger man. clock, for filming, building and then felt we should show the good and the bad, the kindness dismantling sets. Supervising art director Niall Moroney and the cruelty. I also discussed this with Tom [Stoppard, and Nick Gottschalk, the art director for the theatre set, the scriptwriter.] I tried to understand Anna and capture coordinated efforts so that as soon as scenes were filmed, her all, so Anna Karenina became the hardest project construction, painters, props, and lighting departments I’ve done; I knew I had to try to play her without making were at the ready. her ‘too nice.’ Transitions between scenes were abetted by huge painted “Stories like this one are lasting because they are studies backdrops on the main stage. This spectacular scenery on the human condition as a whole, here within one includes St. Petersburg, Moscow, and the starry night sky character. Anna is a great and fallible character, one who at Betsy’s soirée; and elaborate murals such as the clouds speaks to what makes us human; in her, you see the flaws, and cherubs which surround the beatific Kitty on stage the heroics, and the terrifying emotions. You care about when Levin fumbles his marriage proposal. her, and can’t help but recognize yourself.” The biggest set pieces, such as the ice rink, the ball, and the Jude Law plays Count Karenin, Anna’s cuckolded husband. opera lent themselves well to the theatre space. Knightley “Jude and I both wanted to get at how there is love between felt that “Joe’s concept to set it in a theatre was completely the couple; tragically, she doesn’t think there is, and he is brilliant, because you instinctively know that as soon as you unable to vocalize it,” says Knightley. enter a theatre you are required to use your imagination. Law admits, “Those are not the easiest of scenes to play Your sense of space changes, and with all the changing opposite another actor; Keira and I took a lot of time sets we would forget it was a theatre; that definitely was to prepare with Joe, talking about the happier times so when filming the ice rink, or Betsy’s soirée – what with in their marriage, so that we could push the emotions all the chandeliers. But even that happened because of the further on-set.” nature of what a theatre is and how we perceive a theatre; Aaron Taylor-Johnson who plays Anna’s love interest, we know reality is going to be suspended, and therefore Count Vronsky, was impressed with his leading lady. “I’ve you accept what it is being depicted as.” never seen anyone put in as much preparation as she did Katie Spencer, the set decorator elaborates, “St. Petersburg for Anna Karenina. Her copy of the book had colouris much more classical and looking more to the West. So coded stickers, and she would check scenes with the script. the Karenin home is highly regimented, and much less I also know that she spoke with people who have been to cluttered, than the Oblonsky house in Moscow. As such, some of the depths that Anna goes to. As an actor, she will it feels more like a conventional film set, though it is still challenge you in the best way possible. She will be there for conceived within a theatrical context; that is evident in you 100%, including when it’s your own close-up.” the shape of the set, with receding prosceniums one way and another. SETTING THE SCENE “The Oblonsky household was quite complex to decorate. Although various locations, including the condemned They are aristocracy, but the father spends so much of their Alexandra Palace theatre in London, were visited and money – eating well, drinking well – that they are getting considered as filming sites, it became apparent that the SP OTLIGHT Passion ignites on the dance floor for Anna (Keira Knightley) and Count Vronsky (Aaron Taylor-Johnson). Diamonds worth $2 million were loaned by Chanel for the film shoot. down on their luck, so there had to be a more naturalistic environment which worked for them. I was excited when our actors embraced the idea and fully inhabited the set.” were eight decades apart, the two periods meshed together very well. “We associate 1950s couture with chic elegance, and so this would be a signifier to the audience and a way in for them GORGEOUS GARMENTS to the image Joe wants conveyed. With Anna, I did keep The creative team also includes two-time Academy Awardan 1870s skirt shape all the way through – while pushing nominated costume designer Jacqueline Durran (Pride the bodices in the direction of the 1950s. There is also a & Prejudice). The costumes are incredibly beautiful and 1950s feel to several of the other costumes, such as Anna’s have already started a fashion trend for Russian-inspired gray silk jacket – it’s very much a 1950s jacket shape, with styles. fashion retailer Banana Republic asked Durran buttons down the front, although even this is paired with to curate a collection of similar pieces. Consequently, an 1870s skirt. several 19th-century-inspired pieces for men and women As on Atonement, Durran worked with velvet, faux fur and lace tailored closely with Sarah Greenwood and styles, will be on sale this autumn for A girl’s best friend Ivana Primorac, discussing themes and the public to create their own “Russian At the lavish ball, Knightley colour palettes. “We discuss everything aristocrat” looks. wears diamonds worth $2 together,” states Primorac. “It’s like we Even though the Anna Karenina million, specially loaned to her belong to the same department, and is set in the 19th-century, Wright by Chanel for the shoot. I’m finishing what they have started. asked Durran to ensure that Anna’s Keira has no vanity attached to herself costumes were in the style of 1950s at all; she doesn’t care what she looks like, she just wants couture, though still with the silhouettes of the 1870s. “Not the character to look right.” having to be strictly in the one time period was liberating,” Among Anna’s costume highlights is a sumptuous jet says Knightley. black taffeta ball gown which captivates Count Vronsky. Anna’s image was to be one of pure luxury, befitting her 1950s-inspired bodices with asymmetric fastenings, a status as a Russian aristocrat who wore French clothes. swoop of taffeta around the neck, and a long tail folded Durran notes, “Had nothing else in the production been into the bustle to extenuate the 1870s shape are evident in stylised, we would have been out on a limb. But I knew three of Anna’s costumes: the cream dress she wears at the this would fit in to the visual-feast approach within tea room, the dark red dress she wears at the film’s climax, the theatre.” and the dark blue dress she wears at the races (the bodice The costume designer’s research included looking at of which is made out of denim). French fashion houses Balenciaga and Dior, and period Knightley concludes, “Understanding how to express your photographs; the other characters, with the exception of emotions through movement and then how you could fit Princess Betsy, would stay closer to the story’s time period. that into your character has given me a whole new set of Durran comments, “I thought that Joe’s idea was genius skills as an actor.” because a lot of 1950s couture was itself looking back to an earlier time. We looked at some images from the time next to fashion pictures from the 1870s and although they Anna Karenina is on general release now. focusfeatures.com/anna_karenina THE B IZ A HELPING HAND It’s an unpalatable truth, but the recession has hit students and young designers particularly hard. Natalie Li offers some sound advice on how to get ahead Bridal wear design by House of Tammam, Courtesy of School for Creative Startups THE B IZ T HE prospect of finding a job in the creative industries in the current economic climate fills most young graduates with dread and apprehension. With public sector cuts and funding strains at an all-time high, young people embarking into the world of work are being forced to find imaginative ways to kickstart their careers. The blossoming of entrepreneurship over the last decade has been stratospheric. Earlier this year the government launched the ‘Business in you’ campaign which highlights the support available from the government and private sector for startups and growing businesses. According to the coalition, it is easy now, more than ever, to start up a new business. But for those starting out, creative and cultural industries harnessing creativity to find new ways to continue with their projects and develop their ideas in the current economic climate is a challenging prospect. But it seems there are plenty of solutions to equip those in the world of fashion. The British Council has been running the Young Creative Entrepreneurs (YCE) programme since 2004 to support and connect emerging innovative and entrepreneurial leaders in the creative and cultural industries around the world. The programme, which launched in 2004 has seen more than 320 participants from 54 countries across the world from Columbia and Yemen to Vietnam. It is arch A ny a Hin dm open to candidates aged between the ages of 21 and 40, running across all creative sectors (music, design and fashion, communications, media and publishing). In 2012-13 the YCE programme is being run in 25 countries around the world. “The YCE programme provides networking opportunities and the chance to engage with various fashion platforms to showcase work, says programme manager Pablo Rossello. “It is such a great opportunity to access international markets and link to the UK.” The YCE programme also runs awards annually through competitions around the world, selecting winners that represent the best and most innovative from participating countries’ creative sectors. “To be successful on this programme, it’s important to have an open mind and the ability to immediately spot opportunities and make contacts,” adds Rossello. The British Council runs other schemes for young budding creative entrepreneurs. The School for Creative Start-Ups has been running a year-long programme designed to teach UK-based creative people how to build successful start-ups and live from their craft. The course was the brainchild of former Dragon’s Den panellist, Doug Richard, and covers everything a new entrepreneur needs to know through a mix of seminars, business surgeries and access to industry experts. “Setting up a business is difficult – if it was easy everyone would do it,” says fashion designer Anya Hindmarch, who is backing the programme. “There is so much creativity in this country but a lot of it gets wasted because creative people don’t necessarily have the business skills or the confidence to make their ideas a commercial reality.” School for Creative Start-ups Lucy Tammam is a fashion graduate from Central Saint Martins who has benefited from the School for Creative Start-ups. She created bridalwear clothing company Tammam in 2007 to offer high fashion with a conscience. Since its creation the l abel has designed seasonal highend collections that have been showcased at London, Paris and New York Fashion week. What made you decide to start your business? No one else was doing it! I had a great supply chain set up and so many people asking for wedding dresses it made sense to keep going with it. What kind of customers do you think your product is perfect for? Anyone who needs a glamorous dress for a special occasion. I make gorgeous couture dresses. What have you learnt from this programme? I have gained so much focus. It has given me the confidence to push forward with my plans and action my ideas. Which of your products are you proudest of? Our designs that feature in the media and on celebrities. It’s great to see my designs on display, being worn and loved and proving that ethical fashion can be glamorous and beautiful. Do you feel you’ve developed relationships through this program that will help you in the months and years to come? Yes I think some of the people I have met are going to be great business associates and will be really helpful in the future. THE B IZ cASE STUDY Sarah’s Bag – YCE fashion participant Sarah Beydon is the founder of fashion accessory brand Sarah’s Bag. Her company is part of a rehabilitation programme in which women in prison work and learn valuable skills in the creation of accessories, in return for a reliable income. Over the l ast seven years Sarah’s Bag has expanded from a small line to a region wide fashion phenomena built on social consciousness. How did you start out and what is the inspiration behind your work? After studying sociology at the American University of Beirut, I earned my master’s degree from the Universite Saint Joseph, where I wrote my thesis on female prostitution and women prisoners in Lebanon. During my visits to the Baabda prison, I felt that I had a lot to offer to these women prisoners, giving them an opportunity to be productive and do something that gives them a sense of pride and achievement behind the walls. Today, I feel that I have more than a business, I have a duty towards these women. I feel that my contribution plays a major role in helping them maintain their dignity and self-esteem and to help them integrate back in society. Arabesque pastel box Classic diskette Mini clutch in arabesque pastel shades Diskette pastel designs Classic crochet clutch What are your future aspirations? I am hoping to make Sarah’s Bag the leading brand in fashion accessories in the Middle East. Reaching the international market was a dream, and once you’ve reached a part of it, the challenge grows bigger and harder especially that our business is based mainly on artisanal handwork, which requires constant innovation at least at the level of design. What did you gain from taking part in this programme, how did you hear about it? When I joined the programme I didn’t know then how everything functions in fashion on the international level. The programme gave me exposure. I learnt about tranoi through the programme for instance and realised the importance of taking part in it regularly. I heard about the programme through Lynn Sneige who contacted me on behalf of the British council. What were the challenges involved with being part of this project, anything you would change about it? I didn’t like the fact that we couldn’t present our projects ourselves and get the chance to see other participants’ presentations. What advice would you give to those looking to get into fashion and taking part in this programme? I would definitely invite all young entrepreneurs to go for it. They’ll get the chance to meet interesting people and get exposure over what’s happening internationally. The programme will be a guiding mentor for them I believe. Where do you see your career moving? I’m working on opening our own Sarah’s Bag store in Dubai soon and expanding internationally. Blue crochet designs THE B IZ 10 Tips to Help Designers Beat the Recession By Doug Richard 1 Sell your work at local events. That local market or pop-up shop is your best chance to meet customers face to face, to show them your work, to find out why they buy when they buy and to see what they are selling. If the fees are too high, pair up with another artist or two to share a space. 2 Continue to design. If you come up with a good idea, document it. If you can afford to create a sample of the product, do it. This recession won’t last forever and you’ll be glad you have products already designed to sell when it is over. 3 Go to Meetups for both artists and entrepreneurs. It’s a great way to meet like- minded people locally and the events are usually free and cheap. School for Creative Startups has a free meetup you can join if you happen to be in London http://www.meetup.com/ CreativeStartupsLondon/. 4 Create a website to sell your work on. There’s really no excuse at all for not having a website if you’re an artist. You can create your store free using Shopify and Etsy. You can buy a domain name that lasts a year at Godaddy.com that points people to it. Generally speaking the best domain to create is one that uses your name if you’re an artist because most of the people who buy from you will remember that more than any company name you tell them. Also you can keep that domain for a lifetime since it will always be relevant. 5 Buy visibilit y with your art work. As an artist your key weakness is visibility. Initially no one knows who you are or what you do. If you can give a design to a company for free that leads customers back to your website, you’ve increased your visibility without having to pay in cash. Make sure the art has your name or domain name on it. Make sure you have to provide nothing but artwork. 6 7 8 Research Alibaba.com to learn more about ways you can have your work mass produced quickly and cheaply. Research at Amazon Fulfillment and Amazon Marketpl ace to learn how you can market, sell and deliver your products worldwide. Look for ways to produce and sell your work “on demand”. Lulu.com, Cafepress.com, Shapeways.com, Kunaki. com and a hundred other sites online can let you turn artwork into sellable products with no upfront cost. 9 Get very serious about collecting and managing contact information for the people who’ve liked your work in the past. You need to be able to reach those people through Facebook, Twitter, Email and maybe even Pintrist and Meetup depending on what it is you do. You must create a life-long, mutually fulfilling, relationship with your fans. 10 Accept that you’re an artist. Most artists are artists because they are driven to create. It is an obsession. So don’t berate yourself for “wasting time” on the work you care the most about. Do realize that part of being a working artist is finding your audience and paying your bills. Let yourself believe it’s going to be easy to do both. If you allow yourself to do your very best work and you allow yourself to look for people who will love it through all the channels available to you, you’ll find success during this recession and after as well. CONTACTS School for Creative Start-ups schoolforcreativestartups.com Young Creative Entrepreneurs (YCE) creativeconomy.britishcouncil.org/creativeentrepreneurship/young-creative-entrepreneurprogramme TR AVEL Gallic glory As the glamorous setting for Paris Fashion Week in September, Fiona Keating explores all that the chic French capital has to offer P It’s all about the shopping All over the world, when people think Paris, they think fashion. Year after year, fashion collections grab the limelight and their creations dazzle the avenue Montaigne and the rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré. La Vallée Village is located just 35 minutes from the centre of Paris. With more than 90 outlet boutiques providing fashion and luxuries for the home, La Vallée Village offers the authentic previous seasons’ collections of a unique selection of French and international brands with exceptional savings on the recommended retail price. Armani, Diane von Furstenberg, Furla, Jimmy Choo and Paul Smith are just a few of the international brands present, as well as boutiques of French designers Antik Batik, Lancel, Maje, S.T.Dupont and Zadig & Voltaire among others. The Village’s art gallery, Espace La Vallée Village, hosts exhibitions of the work of contemporary artists. Place du Parvis de Notre-Dame © Paris Tourist Office - Photographer : Amélie Dupont aris has a well-deserved reputation as the world’s capital of fashion, luxury goods, design and shopping. For culture, there are not many capital cities that can rival Paris. France was seen as the destination with the best brand image, according to the Country Brand Index (CBI) survey for 2011. Its top draws are art and culture, together with leading luxury brands such as Chanel and Louis Vuitton, both ambassadors of French style. The silver screen has also contributed to the Paris legend – classic and modern films such as Love in the Afternoon, An American in Paris, Amelie, Moulin Rouge, Everyone Says I Love You and Midnight in Paris have done more for Paris’s image than any advertising campaign. But the city is also a source of inspiration for the advertising world – Guerlain’s spot for its latest fragrance, “Petite Robe Noire”, is an homage to elegant Paris. It’s a city for shoppers and while the summer and winter sales are the highlights of the shopping calendar, Paris boasts new shop openings and fashion-related events all year round for fashion fans in search of the latest and most offbeat trends. Shops stay open on Sundays in tourist areas such as Montmartre, the Champs Elysées, Rue des Francs-Bourgeois in the Marais, Rue d’Arcole in the 4th, the Saint-Germain and Louvre-Rivoli districts. TR AVEL Pa ris is not only Fr a nce’s fina ncia l a nd politica l hub. Steeped in history, it is a lso a city of a rt a nd cultur e, v isited by nea r ly 28.9 million tourists in 2011. TR AVEL the chic humour and irreverent glamour of the time, Parkinson captured the essence of enduring style that seduced imaginations from the 1950s to the 1970s. PARIS FASHION WEEK Paris Fashion Week from 24 September to 2 October is one of the hottest tickets of the season, with the main venue at the Carrousel du Louvre, as well as at various other venues throughout the city. There’s always a strong presence from major fashion houses such as Louis Vuitton, Comme des Garcons Homme Plus, Dior Homme and Paul Smith. A newcomer to the show is L’Wren Scott, who will be revealing for the first time her designs in Paris. Scott has been a regular fixture on the New York Fashion Week schedule for the past 10 seasons, since her collection debut Paris by numbers 208 theatres and show venues TRAVEL IN STYLE A celebration of the work of Norman Parkinson, whose work has rarely been shown in France, is at Espace La Vallée, the contemporary art gallery at La Vallée Village, until January 2013. Developed in partnership with the Norman Parkinson Estate, the Travel in Style exhibition of 23 iconic fashion photographs transports visitors to Parkinson’s land of timeless elegance, where the art of refined travel meets distinguished adventurers. Opéra Garnier was the setting for Gaston With a career Leroux’s 1911 novel The Phantom of the Opera, subsequently made into Andrew Lloyd spanning more than Webber’s 1986 musical. 60 years, including time spent at Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar and as the official photographer of the British royal family, Parkinson is known throughout the world for inventing modern fashion photography and revolutionising the genre. Highlighting women in motion by bringing together 71 nightclubs and around 30 cabarets /dinner-show venues 1,800 historical monuments 143 museums Opéra Garnier ©Paris Tourist Office, photographer Marc Bertrand. This Vogue commission captures a time when travel was full of style and mystery. Norman Parkinson exhibition at La Vallée Village. TR AVEL Norman Parkinson’s Cardin Hat Over Paris encapsulates 1960s glamour. in 2007. Insiders believe that the designer wanted more time to work on her spring/summer 2013 show, which was originally scheduled for September. It’s also a home from home, as Scott currently lives in Paris with her partner Mick Jagger. Another famous face on the circuit is Kanye West who returns to Paris Fashion Week with his new collection. Since his last designs were shown to the fashion world, Kanye has a new female muse - his girlfriend Kim Kardashian, who has her own successful clothing label, the Kardashian Kollection. Hopes run high for his third collection, as he has many celebrity fans such as Rita Ora, who hails him as her style icon, and he’s also gaining in respect with fashion critics. The Dior Institut at the Hotel Plaza Athenee for rest, relaxation and a beauty treatment or two. CULTURE VULTURE Paris is an ever-changing urban landscape with new museums, re-openings of major tourist venues and bold architectural projects that continuously transform the city. Whether you are a dedicated follower of fashion or just love looking at beautiful things, France’s capital city is the place to come for inspiration. For starters, there are the concrete industrial buildings of the former Magasins Généraux between Gare d’Austerlitz and the Bibliothèque François-Mitterrand on the Left Bank. These have been converted into the all-new Cité de la mode et du design, which opened in April 2012. The Musée Galliera’s off-site exhibition, and edgy new boutiques and event spaces, will make it one of the most talked about venues in the capital. Following a two-year renovation, the Musée d’Orsay has been totally transformed. Visitors will get a fresh view of its exceptional collections, now housed in extended exhibition spaces where the displays have been rearranged historically in galleries with new-look walls and lighting. For culture lovers, there’s the Palais de Tokyo which re-opened in April after renovations, with extended exhibition spaces. The dynamic Jean de Loisy runs this buzzy, offbeat contemporary art centre – the biggest in Europe. So much to see, so little time. Lucky we have Eurostar to nip across for repeat visits to this city of splendour. CONTACTS LaValleeVillage.com shoppingbyparis.com spaplazaathenee.com TRENDS Going for gold London’s Olympic Games had an unprecedented number of fashion designers in attendance. Nicole Dalamangas looks at the legacy the event will have on future couture trends i n July, Giorgio Armani, the designer behind the Italian Olympic team’s official kit, asserted that London 2012 would be “the most fashionable Olympic Games ever.” The man wasn’t wrong. While the previous three Olympic Games held in Sydney, Athens and Beijing had little if any impact on the catwalk, none of these cities represent one of the four fashion capitals of the world in the way that London does. And while conventionally, the fashion crowd would surely shun an event that’s more about sweat than chic, this year, the industry’s biggest players rushed to put their names on their country’s official kit: Ermanno Scervino created the kit for Azerbaijan Republic, Ralph Lauren (albeit amidst Chinese sweatshop accusations) clothed the US Olympic team, and Stella McCartney was responsible for our own, impressive Team GB kit. Even the best of our British young blood got involved in the visually stunning Olympics’ opening ceremony, with Christopher Shannon, Michael van der Ham and Nasir Mazhar creating costumes worn by the 350 dancers who took part. But how did this merging of two seemingly unrelated worlds occur and what effect has it had on the fashion industry as a whole? TRENDS OLYMPICS COUTURE FIT FOR THE MOVIES Belgium athletes for the Olympic Games were dressed by designer Stijn Helsen who worked as costumer on movies like ‘Spiderman 2’ and ‘Pirates of the Caribbean’. He has worked in the past for Vivienne Westwood, Valentino as well as for some LA movie blockbusters. He is famous for his bespoke tailored suits worn by stars like Lenny Kravitz Danny Huston and the Belgium Royals. Enter the democratised media. Millions upon millions of micro-media channels are now available to anyone with so much as a computer and an internet connection, bringing together people and industries in a way that has never before been possible. Blogs, Facebook, Twitter and the like have shaped a new form of mass consciousness, influencing Belgium based designer everybody in its path, from Stijn Helsen is from a three generation Belgium designers to public relations tailor family and dressed executives to you and I. the Belgian team with This interconnectivity tailored fitted three-piece has opened the fashion suits for men. The men’s industry to new forms waistcoats had silkscreen of inspiration; take for linings with the Belgium official Olympic Games example the Nike and logo, while the women Liberty collaboration of wore couture jersey jackets floral-patterned trainers, and leggings with a bustier Adidas teaming up with the in the national colours. Olsen twins’ label, Opening Ceremony and BMX, Opening Ceremony and Adidas, Richard Nicoll and Fred Perry - hell even Bob Marley’s daughter and Puma collaborated this year, producing the Jamaican Olympic outfits. We are living in an age where bloggers sit front row at Fashion Week, Twitter is the most effective way to reach customer services and Facebook likes are almost as worthy as a British Fashion Award. No longer is what is deemed to be fashionable or on-trend dictated by the select few, but instead by the masses. And so, naturally, huge events such as the Jubilee and the Olympic Games, that inspire cultural spirit, create an Internet sensation so TRENDS her inspirations. London’s 2012 Olympics was clearly the powerful, they cannot help but influence all those within central theme of her S/S12 Menswear collection, with reach, no matter of their industry. symbols and imagery drawn directly from the Games. In light of the Games then, we have seen a mass of designers, Olympic rings embellished knit sweaters, the gold wreath spearheaded by Stella McCartney, embark on a mission symbol featured in prints and accessories to revamp sportswear as we know it. While and the torch appeared as foil front on sport-inspired outfits have traditionally sweatshirts. One T-shirt even featured been functional and lacking in sex appeal, a number of gold medals hanging from Olympics fever among even the most highthe wearers neck, printed to look 3D. In end designers has resulted in collections the same spirit, only with a little more that even manage to make neoprene cool. arrogance, fashion maestro Karl Lagerfeld Marc Jacobs sent out luxury sweatshirts, the launched an exclusive space for his brand season’s statement jumper, Alexander Wang at Selfridges, featuring Team Karl, a commanded a cagoule-clad ‘BMX bandit’ capsule collection commemorating the style and Peter Pilotto and Christopher de London Olympics. According to Lagerfeld, Vos opted for techno-fabulous swimwearthe collection captured “the energy and meets-couture. Note Pilotto’s tight, bright, celebrations around the Olympic Games”. printed velvet and silk dresses, slashed with Team Karl comprised T-shirts with goldmesh panels, key-holes and cut out bodices. medal appliqués and metallic-foiled skinny Note the puffy, wind-breaker jackets: “The jeans that referenced the Games without puffy jackets are something new for us,” compromising on chic. “Inspiration is a Pilotto said after his show, “We find it very muscle,” he explained. “This muscle has exciting to mix something very sporty to be used all the time. The more you do, with classic, elegant styles and find this the more ideas you have. I don’t believe in new balance.” Tops inspired by scuba suits waiting for inspiration on beaches.” Well were completed with chunky zippers, while beach or no beach, it seems nobody has been the aquatic theme continued in print, with able to escape a punch from the Olympic’s deep blue hues and hot, summery reds and far-stretching muscle. oranges. Gold cocktail dress to sparkle Vivienne Westwood meanwhile, true to her through the party season available at The British public has seen all this infiltrate www.alexon.co.uk, priced at £125. into their much-loved high street, with character, was far less subtle in illustrating TRENDS wasn’t just the designers who took it upon themselves to racer vests, two-tone jackets, sporty crop tops and more cash in on the surge of tourism brought on by the Olympics of last season’s Marmite shoe: the wedge hi-top trainer, – several brands also got in on the action. Victoria’s Secret making an appearance. Patriotism came out in full-force opened its first UK store in Westfield Stratford, which in all areas of retail, from high street to high end, bringing is also where Liberty opened its first store outside of the with it an expected, but nonetheless welcomed, revamp iconic original on Regent Street. H&M opened two sportof the British flag. Despite calling it “one of the most inspired temporary boutiques in Covent Garden, the same beautiful flags in the world”, for her interpretation of team spot chosen for the new Opening Ceremony store, and GB’s outfits, McCartney “dismantled” the Union Jack and Chanel opened its debut UK standalone beauty shop. opted for shades of red, navy, gold and blue. Featuring a In fact, with social media making it easier than ever for highly-criticised lack of the former (athletes wearing red unofficial brands to piggyback off the Olympics, it’s a have been found to outperform others), McCartney’s flag wonder that bigger companies such as Adidas bother was a subject of much controversy. She of course took to sponsor the event at all. The Olympic “halo effect” to Twitter in her defence: “I see many feel as strongly has allowed large brands and in particular, British about the Union flag as I do! The design actually uses heritage brands such as Burberry and Jaeger, to more red & shows more flag than any Team GB kit bask in its good-vibes associations. Take Nike since ‘84”. for example, who employed their #MakeItCount This didn’t perturb the collection’s major influence campaign to reference the Olympics without on the catwalk. At London Fashion Week, myriad actually mentioning it. And the result? According designers followed suit; Sarah Burton, creative to a study by BrandWatch, Nike completely director of McQ, designed embroidered oxblood outpaced Adidas as the apparel brand most velvet dresses, Ashish sent models on the runway associated with London 2012. The effect that in gold-sequined jackets and trousers, and at this has had on local retailers and independent Christopher Kane’s show, a plethora of bright boutiques is yet to be seen, but one thing’s for red and dark blue dresses mesmerised on the sure though, Londoners have much to be proud of. runway. Even McCartney’s nipped-in bow waist All those tourists in their bum-bags, cargo pants was seen again at the Burberry show, where trench and tired, old caps may well critique Tube, Mayor coats, bomber jackets and draped front coats were and Royals alike, but they’ll never look highlighted with brightly coloured bows at Statement necklace from Planet, available half as good as a Brit would doing it. the waist. It seems flying the flag for British at www.planet.co.uk, priced at £49. style just got whole new meaning. And it WOMEN’ S BE AUT Y Refresh and revive With summer just a distant memory, it’s important to keep your spirits up all through winter. Angela Clerkin checks out the best products on the market to help you keep that luscious glow. Box of tricks The Box of Sensual Delights is £29.95 and contains a bottle of bath oil that can also be used as massage oil, shea body butter, a grapefruit & Irish moss soap and a scented candle. www.prezzybox.com Indulge yourself Fantastic pamper kits are the must-have for a luxurious bath-time experience. These gorgeous sets from the Handmade Soap Company are 100% natural and have won awards for the quality of their ingredients. This Pamper Kit is £59.95 and contains a luxurious bubble bath, two handmade soaps, a lip balm, a hand cream and body butter for gorgeous glowing skin. www.prezzybox.com Burning up For an extra-warm glow, you can enjoy this luxury spa experience at home. The Hot Stone Therapy Pack is an affordable £10.95. www.prezzybox.com Green fingers Alternatively, for nature lovers the Sage Gardening Pots are only £34.95 and contain 2 plant pots, a seed tray, sage infused cleansing hand wash, bath soak, gardeners soap, an exfoliating body buffer, moisturising lotion, hand cream, a bath fizzer and a mini spade and harrow. www.prezzybox.com WOMEN’ S BE AUT Y American dream Capturing the soft and warm beauty of sundown reflected in the iconic skyline of New York City, “Sunset” features classic top notes of Blood Orange, Violet Leaves, Freesia and Green Apple that give the fragrance its feminine and floral bouquet. Blended with mid notes of Vanilla Orchid, Muguet and Sugary Plum that tempt with their sultry and delicious appeal, the base notes of Musk, Woody Amber, Benzoin and Tonka ground the fragrance with a memorable finish. Price: £ 22.50 http://store.hbouk.com Smooth as silk For the latest advances in anti-ageing treatments, try the Beauty Angel Energising Light Technology. The results of the red light treatment are directly related to your age, your lifestyle and the current state of health of your skin. Many users report a relaxing effect and a fresher, softer skin even after just one treatment. In a broadly-based study 80% of those surveyed had softer skin after one month, and over 60% other visible effects. After the second month all the results had clearly improved again. Users had a firmer skin, less wrinkles, finer pores and generally more even skin tone. Beauty Angel on Twitter @BeautyAngelUK and Facebook https://www.facebook.com/BeautyAngelEurope Purple passion The Rich Plum Pamper Set is an oval wooden bowl packed with beautifully scented lotions and potions! It’s just £29.95 and includes shower gel, body lotion, bubble bath, a chunky exfoliating sponge, bath salt, potpourri, a nail brush, 4 bath fizzers, a pair of slippers and a cellulite massager. www.prezzybox.com Aromatic air Taming the tresses To complete a makeover, there are few things that beat a brand-new hairstyle. Headmasters has 41 salons all over London and are constantly introducing new treatments, blow-dries and colouring techniques to keep their clientele abreast of the latest catwalk trends. They offer exquisite cutting, beautiful colouring and that all-important catwalk-quality finish. Headmasters Mayfair, 11 Hanover Street, London, W1S 1YQ Verbena Sorbet launched in 2012, an aromatic, citrus fragrance which gives off a zingy freshness. The scent is composed of grapefruit and lime notes leaving a luminous and foamy effect in the beginning. A heart includes cold, aromatic notes of verbena and mint, while a base incorporates white musk and precious wood trail. Just heaven... http://uk.loccitane.com WORLD FA SHION WORLD FA SHION Two hairstyle demonstrations are hosted by stylists from TIGI during Hong Kong Fashion Week Students studying the Higher Diploma Programme in Fashion Design and Product Development at the School of Continuing of Professional Studies, The Chinese University of Hong Kong show off their design creativity today Hong Kong FASHIONWEEK A look at the recently concluded Hong Kong Fashion Week Don Cheng by TIAMO, a local designer label, successfully secured six orders from emerging markets on the first day of Hong Kong Fashion Week as the brand stands out in the market with its uniquely designed, limited edition, high quality and hand-made fashion collections. WORLD FA SHION WORLD FA SHION International Fashion: On Parade features the best designer collections from the Chinese mainland, Hong Kong and Singapore Graduates from the Hong Kong Polytechnic University present their stunning designs HKTDC Launches Various Initiatives to Help Industry Players to Explore Business Opportunities In July 2012 - The 19th Hong Kong Fashion Week for Spring/Summer, organised by the Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC), kicked off its four-day run July at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre. As the global economy remains unstable and the European debt crisis shows no sign of easing, the HKTDC has launched various initiatives during the fair period to help industry players to explore business opportunities. During Hong Kong Fashion Week, the HKTDC has launched various initiatives such as cheaper rates for budget booths and designer showcases which are affordable options for Hong Kong companies. The HKTDC has also organized more buying missions this year to help exhibitors to establish contacts with more overseas buyers. A total of 87 buying missions, comprising more than 4,600 buyers from 70 countries and regions, attended Hong Kong Fashion Week to source products. Among them were more than 120 companies from Japan and more than 140 companies from other Southeast Asian countries. As for the traditional markets, around 300 companies from Australia, New Zealand, the US, Canada and Europe visited the fair. To attract quality overseas buyers, the HKTDC has also encouraged them to source products in Hong Kong by offering hotel or airfare discounts. Benjamin Chau said that the outlook for emerging markets is bright, offering great opportunities to Hong Kong suppliers, and that Hong Kong companies should expand into these markets. In view of this, the HKTDC has proactively approached more buyers from emerging markets including Indonesia, Malaysia, the Philippines, Russia and Turkey, and companies such as Soda and Paninter from Russia, PT Megatex Indotama from Indonesia and Five S.R.O from Slovakia attended the fair. As there is a huge market for online shopping, the HKTDC has invited buyers from online shopping websites and chain stores to visit Hong Kong and also arranged for them one-on-one business matching services and guided tours at the fairground. Starting from last year’s Hong Kong Fashion Week for Spring/Summer, the HKTDC has also arranged one-onone business matching services for young designers and this not only creates more exposure of their designs but also gives them a chance to test the market and explore business opportunities. Both the winners and finalists from the three most recent Hong Kong Young Fashion Designers’ Contest joined hands to stage a fashion show entitled “FASHIONALLY COLLECTION #1” on the first day of this year’s Hong Kong Fashion Week. The HKTDC set up business matching meetings for young designers to meet with buyers after the show, including Central Department Store Limited, the largest Chinese-owned department store in Thailand. This department store hopes to introduce more unique designer labels and its representative has expressed interest in two young designers’ labels. About the HKTDC A statutory body established in 1966, the Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC) is the international marketing arm for Hong Kong-based traders, manufacturers and service providers. With more than 40 global offices, including 11 on the Chinese mainl and, the HKTDC promotes Hong Kong as a pl atform for doing business with China and throughout Asia. The HKTDC also organises trade fairs and business missions to connect companies with opportunities in Hong Kong and on the mainl and, while providing information via trade publications, research reports and online. For more information, please visit: www.hktdc.com. Fair Websites: Hong Kong Fashion Week for Spring/Summer: http://www.hktdc.com/hkfashionweekss/ Hong Kong Young Fashion Designers’ Contest (YDC): www.fashionally.com Related Webcast: Trendy makeup tips: http://www.hktdc.com/info/webcast/v/tc/can/1X04BDMB/ Media Enquiries Please contact the HKTDC: Agnes Wat Tel: (852) 2584 4554 Email: [email protected] WORLD FA SHION London FASHIONWEEK HIGHLIGHTS What a gay old time we had! Fiona Keating looks back at the most important dates in the calendar for fashionistas. WORLD FA SHION WORLD FA SHION ‘‘2012 has been an unforgettable year for our city and the serotonin is still flowing with the launch of the talentfest that is London Fashion Week. We have astonishingly creative people working in the capital, bringing energy and ideas as well as generating business. Over just a few days Fashion Week showcases our best fashion designers, puts London’s creative industries on the front pages and brings in over £100 million of orders alone.” Boris Johnson, Mayor of London WORLD FA SHION Highlights of LFW • 62 catwalk shows and 20 presentations to take place over 5 days • 110 UK and international emerging and established, ready-to-wear and accessory designers at The Exhibition at London Fashion Week (LFW) o NE s of the best parties of LFW 2012 was the Fashion for the Brave, raising over £250,000 funds for injured Household Cavalry men and their families and the British Forces Foundation. Aston Martin donated a Special Edition Aston Martin Cygnet, auctioned by Jeffrey Archer, and which heralded a very exciting competitive auction between Sir Phillip Green (via phone with Harold Tillman) and another guest. This was THE party to mark the end of London Fashion Week. Celebrities attending included Claudia Winkleman, Jade Parfitt, Jasmine Guinness, Lady Victoria Hervey, Bo Bruce, Amal Fashanu, Lady Natasha Rufus Isaacs and Harold Tillman. Guest enjoyed a meal of delicious Beef Wellington and sipped on coffee with Baileys to end the evening in style. A spectacular catwalk show created by fashion legend Hilary Alexander with the Best of British fashion which rounded off with a glorious finale featuring supermodel Jade Parfitt in a bespoke Corrie Nielsen dress. All the models were made up by Laura Mercier, wore Boodles diamonds and sported Brave - an exact match to the red of the Guards uniform by Maison Danu, who give 50% of their profits from its sale to the charity. • Philip Treacy and Preen returning to show at LFW • New presentations to the schedule include Lucas Nascimento and Marques Almeida as part of the NEWGEN sponsored by Topshop scheme, Huishan Zhang and Willow • In a first for London Fashion Week, Jonathan Saunders (winner of the BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund) has worked with the BFC to create bespoke visual event branding and marketing materials that will be used across London Fashion Week for the SS13 season – this is based on an adapted version of his ombre print from Resort 2013 • This season sees the launch of the Rock Vault Dozen. The scheme will see twelve jewellers invited to design a ring created from up to an ounce of the precious metal Palladium. These rings will be showcased, alongside the jewellers’ full collections, in a dedicated exhibit as part of the BFC’s Rock Vault, sponsored by the International Palladium Board and curated by Stephen Webster • For the first time The Exhibition at London Fashion Week will also incorporate the newly renovated West Wing, ensuring the majority of areas can be accessed from the main courtyard. This new wing will house the BFC Rock Vault, Estethica, Headonism supported by Royal Ascot, West Wing showrooms and the new Buyers Information Point supported by Samsung • It is estimated that orders of over £100m are placed during LFW each season; the International Guest Programme alone generates over £74m of orders (source: BFC) WORLD FA SHION WORLD FA SHION T his glittering event showcased a full of range of international designers and the next generation of emerging talent at Lincoln Center, New York City. “The Spring 2013 Collections are shaping up to be a much talked about season, with a large amount of our most celebrated designers returning, and many up and coming designers making their runway debut,” says Christina Neault, Executive Producer, IMG Fashion. The Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Spring 2013 Collections included designers and institutions such as Chadwick Bell, Concept Korea, Tommy Hilfiger men's, Lacoste and Diane Von Furstenburg. Mercedes-Benz FASHIONWEEK Photos by Michael Loccisano/Getty Images for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Designer Chadwick Bell walks the runway at the Chadwick Bell Spring 2013 fashion show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in New York City. Photo by Mike Coppola/Getty Images for Mercedes-Benz A wealth of talent and inspiration awaits us for the Spring 2013 Collections. WORLD FA SHION WORLD FA SHION Photo by Michael Buckner/Getty Images for Mercedes-Benz Photo by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images for Mercedes-Benz Designers Christopher Kunz and Nicholas Kunz walk the runway at the Nicholas K Spring 2013 fashion show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. Model Iman attends MBFW Spring 2013 Photos by Michael Loccisano/Getty Images for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Photos by Michael Loccisano/Getty Images for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week WORLD FA SHION WORLD FA SHION Photos by Michael Loccisano/Getty Images for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Photos by Michael Loccisano/Getty Images for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week WORLD FA SHION WORLD FA SHION