Bogdon Box Bass - BirdlandMusic.Net

Transcription

Bogdon 3
3-String Bass Assembly Instructions
For Technical Issues Please Contact edencompanies.com @ 313-277-0700
z Copyright 2008 Alan J. Eden
1
Bogdon 3 Kit Parts List
1. Qty-1 Bogdon3 Cardboard Box
2. Qty-1 Wood Neck w/3 Friction Tuners
3. Qty-1 Wood Mid-Section
4. Qty-1 Wood End Piece
5. Qty-1 Wood Bridge
6. Qty-4 Wood Screws 1 5/8” Long
7. Qty-3 Wood Screws ¾” Long
8. Qty-3 Wood Screws 1” Long (Washer Type Head)
9. Qty-1 nail (the nut)
10. Qty-1 Pickup Assembly (Pickup, shielded wire, ¼” phono jack & nut, double sided tape)
11. Qty-1 E-String (Red)
12. Qty-1 A-String (Dark Green)
13. Qty-1 D-String (Light Green)
14. Qty-1 Pre-Creased Cardboard Sound Post
2
Tools/Supplies Required To Build Kit
1. Wood Glue
2. ½” Diameter Hot Glue Gun Sticks
3. Glue Gun (One that takes 1/2” glue sticks)
4. Clear Packaging Tape
5. 3/8” Ratchet with ½” Socket
6. ½” Box Wrench
7. #2 Phillips Screw Driver
8. Pen
9. Cutter (For trimming the string)
10. Box Cutter
11. Tape Measure
12. A weight of some kind around 10lbs
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Step 1 – Bogdon 3 Box Cutout
Cutout the dashed square (cutting in the middle of the dashed line) at the top of the box with a box
knife (Figure 11 & Figure 12). Cut the center dash line all the way down until it intersects another dashed
line (Figure 13 & 14). Now cut the dashed line at the bottom from one fold line to the other (Figure 14).
NOTE: Make sure the cuts are all the way through the box material.
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Step 2 – Creasing The Fold Flaps
Once the cutout and cuts have been made you need to crease the fold lines before actually folding
them. Lay the box flat on a clean dry surface. Take the short wood end piece and place one of the edges
on the fold line (Figure 15). Rotate the wood up on its edge and press down firmly to crease the
cardboard (Figure 16). Make sure to crease the full length of both fold lines.
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Step 3 – Folding The Flaps
Place one hand inside the box with your fingers behind the flap and place your other hand on the
outside of the box with your fingers just beyond the fold line (Figure 17). Gently start folding the flap just
a little bit each time while moving both hands down the length of the fold line (Figure 18). Each time you
work your hands all the way down the fold line, repeat the process and increase the angle of the fold until
your are roughly at 90 degrees or a little bit beyond (Figure 19). Repeat the folding process in reverse to
bend the flap in the other direction. Place one hand inside the box with your fingers just beyond the fold
line and the other hand on the outside of the box with your fingers on the flap (Figure 20). Gently start
folding the flap just a little bit each time while moving both hands down the length of the fold line (Figure
21). Each time you work your hands all the way down the fold line, repeat the process and increase the
angle of the fold until you are roughly at 90 degrees or a little bit beyond (Figure 21). Repeat this entire
process on the other flap. When you are finished is should look like Figure 22.
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Step 4 – Assembling The Lower Wooden Structure
Find the two pieces of wood with an “X” (Figure 1). Take the small end piece and start on the
opposite side of the “X” (Figure 2) and screw in 2 green Phillips screws 1 5/8” long into the pre-drilled
holes through the wood until about 1/8” of the screw is poking through. Line up the screws on the small
end piece with the holes in the mid-section piece of wood (Figure 3) and draw a line with a pen. Squirt
some wood glue on the mid-section piece of wood and spread it evenly around up to the line you just drew
(Figure 4). Finally put the two pieces of wood together and turn the screw until it is flush (or even) with
the wood (Figure 5). Wipe off any excess glue with a damp paper towel. **
**NOTE: MAKE SURE TO SCREW THE “X’s” TOGETHER, MEANING
YOU SHOULD NOT BE ABLE TO SEE THEM AFTER ASSEMBLY**
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Step 5 – Assembling The Upper Wooden Structure
Find the neck and lower assembled wood pieces with “X2” (Figure 6). Take the neck (piece of
wood with the bolts at the top) and start to screw in 2 green Phillips screws 1 5/8” long into the predrilled holes (Figure 7) through the wood on the opposite side of the “X2” until about 1/8” of the screw is
poking through on the “X2” side. Line up the screws on the neck with the holes on the lower assembly
(Figure 8) and draw a line with a pen. Squirt some wood glue on the lower assembly and spread it evenly
around up to the line you just drew (Figure 9). Finally put the two pieces of wood together and turn the
screw until it is flush (or even) with the wood (Figure 10). Wipe off any excess glue with a damp paper
towel. NOTE: PLEASE WAIT 24HRS FOR THE GLUE TO DRY BEFORE TENSIONING STRINGS
**NOTE: MAKE SURE TO SCREW THE “X2’s” TOGETHER, MEANING
YOU SHOULD NOT BE ABLE TO SEE THEM AFTER ASSEMBLY**
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Finished Wood Structure Assembly
Nut slot should be on
this side of the neck
9
Step 6 – Prefold 1st Box Side
Pre-fold all 4 flaps (90 degrees + an additional 30 degrees) on the box side opposite the ¼” phone
jack (Figure 23). Once completed, stand the box on the side that was not pre-folded (Figure 24)
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Step 7 – Taping The Box
Stand over the box (placing it between your knees) holding the flaps down. Squeeze your knees together
so that the flaps are touching, and making sure they are even with one another at the end of the box. Now
place a small piece of clear packaging tape to secure the flaps to the box (Figure 25). Repeat this process
at the other end of the box. Once both sides have been taped, start the tape about ¾ of the way down the
long side of the box and follow the red arrow in Figure 26. Repeat the same process the other way in
Figure 27.
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Step 8 – Gluing The 1st Taped Flaps Inside The Box
Flip the box over so it is resting on the side you just taped. While holding the flap down, draw a
line across the inside of the box (Figure 28). Lift up the flap and apply a generous amount of hot glue on
both sides of the long flaps up to the line you had drawn (Figure 29). Make sure you can do this rather
quickly before the glue hardens. So make sure the glue gun is good and hot. After the hot glue has been
applied, quickly close and hold down the flap to adhere the glue to both surfaces (Figure 30). Repeat this
process for the other flap inside the box.
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Step 9 – Making The Designated Holes In The Box
Phono Jack Hole:
While supporting with one hand inside the box near the full black circle (NOT DIRECTLY
UNDERNEATH THE CIRCLE, BUT NEAR IT), take a BIC pen (approximately 0.250” – 0.300” in
diameter) and poke it through the center of the black circle (Figure 31). Cock the pen on angle and move
in a circular motion to enlarge the hole a little bit.
String Mounting Screw Holes:
While supporting with one hand inside the box near the three black circle outlines (NOT
DIRECTLY UNDERNEATH THE CIRCLES, BUT NEAR IT), take a BIC pen (approximately 0.250” –
0.300” in diameter) and poke it through the center of the left & right black circle outline only (Figure 32).
Cock the pen on angle and move in a circular motion to enlarge the hole a little bit. Repeat the same
process for the other hole.
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Step 9 Continued……
Take a box cutter knife and cutout the material between the two holes (Figure 32A, B, C).
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Step 10 – Check Fit Of Wooden Structure To Box
Insert the wooden structure into the box with the bolts/friction tuners at the top, outside of the box
(Figure 33). Slide the stick all the way down into the box until it touches the bottom of the box cutout
(Figure 34A). There should be little to no gap between the wooden structure and box cutout while the
bottom of the wooden structure is touching/resting at the bottom inside the box. If the wooden structure
is not touching the bottom in side the box, then you need to cut the cardboard slot a little lower
designated by the blue line and arrow (Figure 34B).
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Step 11 – Mounting The Wooden Structure To The Box
Pull the wooden structure into the box until it touches the bottom. Then you need to center the 3
holes in the slot you just made (Figure 35A&B). With a pen, mark the position on the inside of the box
(Figure 36).
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Step 11 – Continued
Flip the box on its side with the Bogdon Bass Logo facing the ground. Pull the wooden structure to
the bottom of the box (Figure 37 – Red Arrow) and align the wood edge to the line you drew in the
previous step. With a pen, outline the end of the wooden structure to the box which will define your
gluing area. Lift up the wooden structure as little as possible and apply a generous amount of hot glue in
your outlined box (NOTE: YOU MAY WANT TO TRY A PRACTICE RUN FIRST. IF YOU LIFT THE
STICK TO HIGH YOU WILL NOT BE ABLE TO PUSH IT BACK DOWN. TRY IT AND YOU
SHOULD SEE THE PROBLEM). Make sure not to fill in the slot that you cut into the bottom of the box
with hot glue (Figure 38). Once you have applied the hot glue, press & hold down the wooden structure to
the box, aligning it to your pen outline, sliding the wood to the bottom of the box, and waiting until the
glue has set/hardened. If you accidentally filled in the two holes do not worry, wait till the hot glue cools,
flip the box over, and try to remove the excess glue from the holes.
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Apply on both sides of the stick to ensure good adhesion to the box (Figure 40).
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Step 12 – Mounting The Neck To The Box
With the wooden structure and the Bogdon Bass logo facing the ground, place roughly 10lbs of
weight over the center of the wood structure. Press down on the wood as shown (Figure 41) and on the
box to make sure they are both even with each other as much as possible. While sticking the tip of your
glue gun between the cardboard flap and wood, apply a generous amount of hot glue down the full length
of the flap (Figure 42). Once completed, use your fingers to press & hold the flap firmly against the wood
until the hot glue sets. Repeat this procedure on the other flap.
**NOTE: MAKE SURE THE NECK IS FLUSH
WITH THE FRONT FACE OF THE BOX**
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We recommend additional gluing as shown in Figure 43 with the red arrows on both sides of the
flaps to ensure good adhesion to the box. Take glue gun and fill in gap between wood and box as shown in
Figure 44 & 45.
**NOTE: MAKE SURE THE NECK IS FLUSH
WITH THE FRONT FACE OF THE BOX**
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Finished Wooden Structure Mounting Picture
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Step 13 – Mounting The Carboard Sound Post
Measure and mark the center between the gap in Figure 46. The gap length is approximately 20
inches long. Then measure and mark a height of 7 3/8” from the bottom (Figure 47). Go to the other side
of the box and make the same height measurement across approximately from your center mark. Fold
the cardboard sound post at the pre-creased lines. Apply hot glue generously on one side of the tab
attaching on the wood side of the box first (Figure 47 & 48).
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Put your knee directly behind your center and height mark from Figure 46 & 47 and press with
your hand the cardboard sound post to the box placing the back of the 90 degree bend on your marked
center distance and height (Figure 50). Next apply a generous amount of hot glue to the other tab on the
cardboard sound post (Figure 51) and place the back of your 90 degree bend at your height mark (Figure
52). Apply additional hot glue at the joint between the cardboard box and cardboard sound post on both
sides as shown in Figure 53.
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Step 14 – Mounting The Pickup Assembly
Carefully unpack the pickup assembly. Take the piece of double side tape provided and peel off
one side. Place the back side of the transducer (front side of disc has wires attached) roughly in the center
of the tape (Figure 55). Now place a piece of wax paper over top of the sensor, get a dry non-abrasive
sponge and lightly press down on the sensor (against a flat surface as you do not want to
bend the peizo) for about 15-20 seconds to ensure good adhesion to the double sided tape. Peel off the
other side of the tape and attach the sensor just below the cardboard sound post (opposite the phono
jack side and lower half of the box) and in the center of the box width as shown in Figure 56,
making sure the wires are not twisted. Again place the same piece of wax paper over top and with a dry
non-abrasive sponge lightly pressing the sensor against the box with your hand behind it on the box for
support and hold 15-20 seconds to ensure good adhesion to the box.
Before attaching ¼” phono jack, attach the taped end to the sound post with hot glue (Figure 55) a couple
inches away from the side of the box (Figure 56). Make sure the wires are separated (not touching each
other as shown in figure 55).
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Next take the phono jack and put it through the hole as shown in Figure 57. Cut away any excess
cardboard so you can screw on the nut (Figure 58). Screw on nut to phono jack body compressing the
cardboard slightly (or until the nut is 1/16” – 1/8” past being flush) as shown in Figure 59 & 60.
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Once the transducer and phono jack are firmly attached to the box, additional hot glue is needed
to secure the wires/phono jack (red arrow denotes the approximate hot glue spots) to the box and wood
(Figure 61). Make sure that there is a nice smile/bend in the shielded cable from the sound post to the ¼”
phono jack and that wire is not touching or rubbing on anything.
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Step 15 – Closing/Sealing The Box
NOTE: BEFORE SEALING UP THE BOX, PLUG YOUR BOX BASS INTO AN AMP AND TEST THE
PICKUP ASSEMBLY. TURN THE AMP ON AND LIGHTLY TAP THE ON THE BASS LOGO TO
MAKE SURE YOU CAN HEAR THE TAPPING COMING FROM YOUR AMP.
REPEAT STEP 6 ON PAGE 10: Pre-fold all four cardboard flaps. Stand over box properly
folding all the cardboard flaps making sure they are aligned (even) at the top and that both flaps are
touching. Release one cardboard flap and take a pen and drawing a line on both upper and lower flaps.
NOTE: BEFORE SEALING UP THE BOX, TURN IT UPSIDE DOWN TO EMPTY ANY RESIDUAL
PAPER/DIRT/PARTICLES/WIRE/SCREWS/ETC.
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Generously apply hot glue on one half of the cardboard flap using the line you drew as a divider
(Figure 65). Press the long and short flap together making sure it lines up with the line drawn (Figure 66)
until glue has set/dried. Perform the same procedure for the other end of the box (Figure 67 & 68).
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Generously apply hot glue to the remaining cardboard flap halves (Figure 69). Then with both
hands (one for each end of the box) press down at the ends of the long flap until glue has set/dried
(Figure 70). Next follow the same clear packaging tape procedure from Step 7.
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Step 16 – Attaching The String Spacing Screws
Take the three ¾” long Philips screws (Figure 72) and screw into the pre-drilled holes (Figure 73)
until the threads are no longer showing (Figure 74). Make sure the screws are mounted on the side with
the slot (Figure 74).
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Step 17 – Attaching String Mounting Screws
Take the 2 of the 3 fully threaded 1” long Phillips screw (Figure 76) and screw them into the outer
pre-drilled holes at the bottom of the box (Figure 77 & 78) until the screw is about 1/16” from touching
the box. After the strings are lightly tensioned screw until the box crushes about an 1/8”.
Install the outer strings first
and the middle string last.
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Step 18 – Mounting The E, A, & D String, and The NUT
Find the red E-String. Locate the pre-crimped loop and place it on the left screw at the bottom of
the box (Figure 81). Run the E-string all the way up the top to the first friction tuner (Figure 82). The
friction tuners have been pre-tensioned, are ready to go out of the box, and require one ½” socket or box
wrench for operation. Put the E-string through the hole in washer in Figure 82 (You may have to rotate
the tuner to get the hole facing the front) making sure it goes behind the alignment screw. Pull the string
through until you have approximately 2-3 inches of slack. Then begin to rotate the friction tuner as
shown in figure 82. Initially just lightly tension the E-String.
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Step 18 – Continued: Finished E-String Mounting
33
Step 18 – Continued: D-String Mounting 2nd
Find the light green D-String. Locate the pre-crimped loop and place it on the right screw at the
bottom of the box (Figure 85). Run the A-string all the way up the top to the second (upper) friction tuner
(Figure 86). The friction tuners have been pre-tensioned, are ready to go out of the box, and require one
½” socket or box wrench for operation (Figure 86). Put the D-string through the hole in washer in Figure
87 (You may have to rotate the tuner to get the hole facing the front) making sure it goes behind the
alignment screw. Pull the string through until you have approximately 2-3 inches of slack. Then begin to
rotate the friction tuner counter clockwise. Initially just lightly tension the D-String.
34
Step 18 – Continued: Finished D-String Mounting
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Step 18 – Continued: A-String Mounting Last
Find the dark green A-String. Locate the pre-crimped loop and place it on the right screw at the
bottom of the box (Figure 83). Run the A-string all the way up the top to the second (upper) friction tuner
(Figure 84). The friction tuners have been pre-tensioned, are ready to go out of the box, and require one
½” socket or box wrench for operation. Put the A-string through the hole in washer in Figure 84 (You
may have to rotate the tuner to get the hole facing the front) making sure it goes behind the alignment
screw. Pull the string through until you have approximately 2-3 inches of slack. Then begin to rotate the
friction tuner counter clockwise. Initially just lightly tension the A-String.
36
Finished A-String Mounting Last
37
Step 18 – Continued: Nut Installation
Take the nut (Figure 89 – nail) and insert underneath the lightly tensioned strings (Figure 90).
Push/roll the nut upwards until it sits it the pre-cut groove (Figure 91 & 92). Once the nut is in the
groove, push the nut to the left until stops. Note: The head of the nail will be sticking out about 1/16”.
38
Step 19 – Setting String Guide Screw Height
Figure 93 shows the initial string guide screw height. Tighten each string guide
screw until the string touches the wood as shown by the red arrow in Figure 94.
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Step 20 – Mounting The Bridge
Take the wood bridge and slide it underneath the strings until each string sits in the
pre-grooved positions on the bridge. The bridge adjustment range is noted in Figure 95.
This bridge can be placed anywhere within the range specified. Different positions will
yield different tonal characteristics. Our recommended position is shown in both figures
below. Make sure the bridge is roughly centered left to right and the strings are also
centered left to right on the neck. Then once you have picked a bridge position, apply four
glue beads approximately 1.5” long above and below, and on each side designated by the
Green lines in Figure 96. This will securely attaché the bridge to the box.
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Step 20 – Tuning The Strings
The Bogdon Bass is actually a “Double Bass” in concept. The double bass is the largest and lowestpitched bowed string instrument used in the modern symphony orchestra. It is used extensively in Western
classical music as a standard member of the string section of symphony orchestras and smaller string
ensembles. In addition, it is also commonly used in Jazz, Folk, Blues, Rock and Roll, Psycho-billy, Rockabilly,
and Bluegrass. The Bogdon Bass is quite possibly the only actual Punk Rock double bass in existence.
The sound and tone of the double bass is distinct from that of the fretted electric bass guitar. The
differences in sound come from several sources. The double bass's strings are stopped by the finger directly on
the smooth wooden fingerboard. This tends to make the string hum sweetly against the fingerboard near the
stopped position. The fretted bass guitar's strings are stopped with the aid of metal frets which give it a harsher
twangy sound.
Also, the double bass is an acoustic instrument with a hollow body that amplifies the tone of the plucked
strings. In contrast, electric bass guitars are often made with a solid wood body, and the sound is produced by
electronic amplification of the vibration of the strings.
The double bass is generally tuned in fourths, in contrast to the other members of the orchestral string
family, which are all tuned in fifths. This avoids too long a finger stretch (known as an "extension"). Modern
double basses are tuned (low to high) E-A-D-G. The lowest string is tuned to E (the same pitch as the lowest E
on a modern piano, approx 41Hz), nearly 3 octaves below middle C ).
The Bogdon Bass is tuned to E, A, and D. The A is achieved by matching the 5th position on the E string
with the open A string.
It’s easier to use a piano.
E
Red
A
D
G ÅStandard 4 string bass tuning
Dark Green Light Green ÅBogdon Bass tuning
Here is a link to a website which has an online bass tuner. Go to http://www.tunemybass.com/, select
4-string bass, and then select standard (E-A-D-G). Drag your mouse over top of the strings to hear the open
string tone. Then taking your ½” socket or box wrench, turn the friction tuners counter clockwise or vice versa
until the open string tone matches the computer tone for each string.
41

Bogdon Box Bass - BirdlandMusic.Net

Transcription

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